Fashion has been in existence and eminence for over 5000 years.

And yet, it changes

perhaps everyday. To study the dynamics and influences of these changes I have
restricted my domain to the trends over the last decade. The elements instrumental for
this momentum are my focus here on.

Subject to many influences and inputs and yet typically aligned to functional
requirements the dynamics of the “looking good” industry… is bidding to be one of the
spearheads for the splurging economy and power in India.

Transformation of fashion trends as a function of social status is an area of much interest

and consequence. The distribution of demand for fashion clothing accessories etc across
different levels of society aids the allocation of resources and positions of fashion in the
market accordingly.

Eco Boom taps Pret a Couture:

The current spurt of economic growth in India has keenly affected the same. The rise of
the awareness and purchasing power of the middle-class has resulted due to the boom in
the service industry. This can be co-related to the current revolution in retail. Consumers
today have money to spend and to spend it wisely. The chasm between designer and high
street is fast disappearing. Thus expectations for quality have risen. Demand is now for
fashion that returns value for money and yet is novel. This need is being fulfilled by the
rapid expansion in organized retail segment.

Thus a strong pulse to acknowledge is Couture meets Prêt drive fuelled by the increasing
demand for designer fashion at reasonable costs. Retailers are now experimenting with
Prêt a couture.

Global village to international brands:

The “global” scenario in the economic perspective has altered fashion. International
fashion brands like MANGO, GUESS etc entering the Indian market and selling at
premium prices comparable to those in the west. Hence this is giving a competitive push
to the local brands to improvise on product, pricing, packaging etc. This Global exchange
is one of the many driving forces that accentuate the growth of brand awareness in India.

Fair trade beyond FMCG sector:

I would like to also highlight the surge in fair-trade spilling into the textile and hence
fashion industry. The importance of ethical practices in the industry is stretching from
sourcing to pricing. India as a supplier, manufacturer, and converter to innumerous
international fashion brands finds it inevitable to acquire FLO certification. The restricted
international trade in this industry till before 2005 was unorganized and practices went
unnoticed. Now as it grows beyond bounds, it is taking on a organized and most cases
even a corporate structure which prioritises not only quality but also just and ethical trade
practices.
Eco/Fashion Equation:

In the functional context, we can highlight the role and relevance of ecological and
regulation inputs. Many Eco conscious countries have introduced legal regulations and
prohibitions to safeguard larger interests of the globe. These regulations are
directly/indirectly forcing the manufacturing houses, export houses, textile mills etc to
adopt and adapt to the new policies. This awareness has spilt steadily into the creative
initiatives even in Indian retail industry. Out of ecological necessity & desire for novelty,
creative leaders are exploring future possibilities of more natural fibers like bamboo, soy,
corn, milk, paper, pineapple etc. to complement if not replace currently used natural
fibers in the coming years, on the fashion scene. A novel research project is looking at
ways to recycle plastic bottles for use in the fashion industry in a bid to halt the landfill
crisis. In retail, Bamboo, a label of garments made of bamboo fibre showcased in
Pantaloons this season.

Why the drop in Formal work wear?

There is a marked need for comfortable clothing during long work hours, casual clothing
at work from Thursdays onwards and clothing for people who work out of their
residences. These dynamics of the work setup have led to a change in the overall demand
for office wear and in the definition of office wear all together.

The development of the IT industry marks a change in the definition of work structure &
culture. There is little face-to-face interaction, which lessens the need to dress formally at
all times. The culture of informal dressing at the workplace has taken off from this
change in this functionality of office wear. Also work hours are almost always long (12
hrs plus) which calls for comfort in clothing at work. This has marked an increase in the
use of natural skin friendly fibres instead of synthetics for work wear.

Plurality v/s Diversification in Fashion:

Plurality in dressing to conform to different activities and environments is rapidly

emerging. Fashion is working now more as a function of creating multi-functional
clothing. This multi-functionality of people and their wardrobe stems mainly from the
increasing Urbanization and evolving work standards and patterns.

As opposed to this, the occasion and hence the objective for dressing is another parameter
to measure change in the fashion industry. However this speaks more of the patterns of a
fashion consumer. The need for a multi sectional wardrobe with clothing made to fit the
varied social, work and other activities that exist at present is evident. In the same breath
we can include the increasing gym culture. Specialized Gym wear/Sportswear have taken
their racks in fashion stores. Sportswear brands like Nike, Reebok are diversifying in a
big way into highly specialized engineered sportswear or rather gym wear.

Food trends and changing anatomy of fashion:

Fast food culture, overeating, eating at odd hours has led to a change in the physical
attributes of people in general. Fashion has also managed to target the so called obese
/overweight strata where the demand is remarkable. Thus, plus Size Fashion he nce has
gained importance. The market for such brands is growing by the day. All, Revolution,
Lakshita are some pioneers in this segment who realized well in time, the scope of such
products.

New Lab creations take on imagination:

Technology is a major factor in giving sudden twists to fashion trends. For example,
Nano Technology has taken "functional clothing" to a whole new level. Research talks
about fashion clothing developed using fabrics treated with nano particles to prevent
colds and flu and never needs washing. Another nano-fabric destroys harmful gases and
protects the wearer from smog and air pollution.

The demands for fabrics have increased sharply. Conventional textiles are not able to
meet the production cost. With better customization of characteristics into the fabric and
appropriateness to certain end uses being advantages, non-wovens have emerged rapidly
as the fabrics of the future.

Psyche in fashion:

But fashion was never only functional. For time immemorial it was a mode for Self
Expression. Fashion Trends and distinct dress styles vary across cultures, in terms of the
fabrics, processes, styling as well their basic color palettes. In the Indian context, the
Indian culture has been subject to influences from earliest history - Roman, Greek,
Jewish, Christian, Arab, mughal, French & British.

Today, the culture of India is unique and uniquely modifying. The western influences on
top of 3000 years of culture have given birth to this uniqueness. The need for adventure
gets a face in fashion with body art like tattoos of Indian gods and goddesses, body
piercing and nail art. Also clothing with prints of manuscripts, shlokas and deities are in
plenty.

As the Indian youth evolves in this fast progressing environment, there is a constant
desire for change. Youth tend to grow out of a trend faster than the pace of change in the
supply side of the industry.

In an attempt to protect self image, fashion as a distinction point for age is losing
importance. Emphasis is more on the agelessness in fashion. A pair of Jeans is something
that is owned and worn by a teenager as well as by a 50 year old.

Rising above the self we as an element of the larger society are urged by an equally
powerful urge to conform to the trend. This band-wagonization in fashion gets further
impetus from society’s role models, celebrities. Bollywood, the Indian film industry is a
major source.
Group Ideologies at times employ fashion as a medium of communication. We can cite
illustrations like body shop which promotes women’s rights or an even cultish example
would be Fubu – African American sportswear brand. These ideations have already sewn
the seeds of such cultish Brands coming up in India as well.

All the above factors are of little or no relevance/consequence if studied in a micro

perspective. Fashion is reflective of the sum-total of all these factors. At the same time,
fashion itself causes some of these factors to modify. Everything is therefore malleable.

The actual change is effected by those creators and innovators, who are receptive to these
inputs. These “fashion professionals” take up the process of developing trends based on
their understanding of and sensitivity towards the world. They blend their unique creative
skill with these trends. Sometimes, Styling in Fashion merely follows a principle of
conversion. Sometimes, Jean Levi comes along and effects revolution. Many times,
fashion moves in cyclical phases. All the above hence indicates the scope and
vulnerability of this industry in relation to other industries in India. It ofcourse evokes
immense anxiety as well as excitement to see such and explosion in the magnitude and
competition in this industry over the past 5 years and the immediate few years to come.
Would one see India’s future with respect to fashion as a market or a supplier is worth
more than a thought...