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Fiberglassing A Boat Using Poxy
Fiberglassing A Boat Using Poxy
INTRODUCTION
If you have not worked with GLEN-L Poxy-Shield epoxy resins, or you have applied
fiberglass before using polyester resins, make sure you read and understand all of the
following information before starting any aspect of the job or handling any materials.
Epoxy resin works and handles differently from polyester. SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
ARE IMPORTANT!
TOOLS REQUIRED
Resin is applied using disposable brushes and foam rollers. You will also need a
squeege for working out excess resin when applying the bond quote. Power sanders
will save work during finishing and other sanding operations. The reciprocal/orbital types
are safe and easy to use, but are slow and remove only small amounts of material. The
disc and belt types are fast, but require some practice for proper control. A foam pad
backing disc should be used to minimize gouges. A sanding block can be used in areas
where power tools can't be used. Scissors and a utility knife are used to trim the
fiberglass material. Cleaning materials should be ready to use at the work site. These
would include a bucket of hot soapy water or a waterless resin cleaner, safe for skin
contact; and suitable solvents, such as denatured alcohol, acetone, or lacquer thinner,
for keeping tools clean.
SURFACE PREPARATION
Cleanliness is the most important factor for successful results. The application and all
coatings should occur over a clean, dry, bare wood surface free from dirt, dust, oil,
grease, wax, paint or other contaminants. The use of wood preservatives on the surface
to be covered is not recommended. A slightly rough surface is acceptable. Avoid over-
sanding Douglas fir plywood surfaces as the softer grain will wear away, creating a
wrippled surface. Should this occur, correct after fiberglassing, using a filler such as our
Microspheres. All holes, seams, cracks, dents, gouges, and other imperfections can be
filled with a non-oily resin-compatible wood putty or epoxy filler, and sanded level prior
to applying the first coat. Optionally, this work can be done after the seal coat has cured
but in this case, only an epoxy filler can be used. Do NOT use polyester-based putties.
Appendages, such as deadwood, keels, lift strakes, and rub rails should be installed
AFTER the fiberglass application. All corners (inside and outside) should be well
radiused. See note in "Finishing" for more on the radiused edge of the transom.
SAFETY
Read all product container labels before opening. Epoxy resins are considered industrial
chemicals that should not be handled carelessly. AVOID DIRECT SKIN OR EYE
CONTACT. ALWAYS wear protective gloves, eye protection, and non-permeable
protective clothing (such as paper or plastic aprons). ALWAYS wear a dust mask when
sanding, especially on resin-coated surfaces that have cured LESS than 7 days.
APPLICATION SEQUENCE
The application consists of four coats of resin. the FIRST coat is the SEAL COAT, and
seals the wood surface prior to applying the cloth. The SECOND coat is the BOND
COAT, and is used to wet out and bond the cloth to the surface. The THIRD coat is the
FILL COAT and fills the weave of the cloth. The FOURTH coat is the FINISH COAT and
provides enough resin build-up for final sanding and finishing. Throughout ALL coats, do
NOT apply any more resin than is necessary to accomplish the purpose of each coat. A
typical problem with beginners is that they use too much resin. This is a waste of resin,
makes finish work difficult, and increases weight and cost. Do NOT attempt to spray any
of the coats of resin.
(*) Sanding after each coat is not necessary for adhesion if the coat is applied in less than 24
hours after the previous coat. However, a light sanding is often advisable to remove any dust,
dirt, insects, or debris that could have settled onto the surface during cure. In addition, a solvent
wipe after sanding using a rag soaked with denatured alcohol, acetone, lacquer thinner, or
similar solvent will remove any loose dust and other contaminants. With all cured coats of resin,
a oily-like film (amine blush) frequently appears on the surface. This thin film is easily removed
with solvents as above, if left on the surface it can cause bond problems. Make sure the surface
is completely dry before recoating.
FIBERGLASS APPLICATION
We recommend the "dry method" of cloth application. In this method, the cloth is
positioned over the surface "dry" and the resin applied ONTO the cloth to wet it out.
Cut, fit, and position the fiberglass cloth first, using the cutting instructions provided. If
you are not familar with working with fiberglass cloth, start the application in a smaller
area, such as the transom, in order to get a "feel" for the work. Use tacks, staples, or
masking tape to hold the cloth in position, but make sure tacks and staples are removed
prior to the resin setting up hard. (We use masking tape, applied to no more than an
1/8" of the cloth. Fold under the end of the tape that sticks to the hull, so it can easily be
removed.) Begin work from one end of the hull and work to the other; once application
of the bond coat begins, there is no need to stop (except in certain instances as will be
noted).
FINISH COAT
The final FINISH COAT is applied to provide a sanding and finishing base so that
enough resin is available for sanding to prevent cutting into the cloth. This coat is
applied in the same manner as the FILL COAT. Take care to assure that this coat is as
smooth and even as possible, using a brush to smooth out any imperfections before the
resin sets up. If the resin coating is not sufficiently thick at this point, apply additional
coats as necessary, but remember, thinner coats are better than thicker ones. Allow the
FINAL COAT to cure long enough so that sanding will be easier (overnight or 24 hour
cure is minimum preferably.)
Note: If the boat you are building is a speed boat or other planing boat, the junction of the
bottom and the transom should be a fairly crisp angle. Before fiberglassing, this edge was
rounded for fiberglass application, now you must put the edge back. Use scraps of cloth and
epoxy to build the corner up, then grind the material off to form an edge. Be sure that no "hook"
is built in, as this, like a geneously radiused edge, can cause performance problems.
FINISHING
The finish work will vary depending on the quality of the FINISH COAT. If the work has
been done with care, start out by sanding with an 60 to 80 grit paper, working up to a
120 to 180 grit. For many builders, this will give results good enough for painting.
However, progressive sanding using finer grit papers will result in an even finer,
smoother finish. Many approaches to final finishing are possible and are beyond the
scope of these instructions. In any case, the final epoxy coated surface MUST be
protected by a paint system or ultra-violet stabilized coating. These may or may not
require primer undercoats. Just about any marine-type paint system or industrial enamel
can be used; much depends on the builder's budget. In all cases, follow the instructions
provided by the paint manufacturer to the letter. Note: The resin rarely gives a varnish-like
smooth surface. For natural finishes, sand the epoxy with fine grit sandpaper and apply multiple
coats of marine varnish or polyurethane. Also, for natural finishes, be aware that epoxy resins
cause slight color changes in the wood. If coating wood and only part is coated with epoxy, then
varnished, the surface can look "blotchy".