ENGLISH WRITING

Tạp Dịch
Session 31
ALL
Instructor: Hồ Lê Vũ

1
 OVERVIEW
• Translation
– SKIN CARE
• Review II
• Class Wrap-up

2
FOOD FOR THOUGHT

3
 ENGLISH-VIETNAMESE TRANSLATION

• Reading: Skincare 101

4
 CLEANSING
• Allows other products to work better
• gentle cleaning vs. deep-cleaning
– Double cleansing: an oil-based cleanser + a water-based
cleanser → heavy foundations, waterproof mascara or
sunscreen
• Cost factor:
– the same standard cleansing agents used in all products
– no ingredients for leave-on products

5
 CLEANSING
• Micellar water:
– made up of micelles (tiny balls of cleansing oil molecules)
suspended in soft water
– micelles draw out impurities (oil & dirt) without drying out the
skin → a combination of facial wash, light makeup remover
and moisturizer
– gentle and hydrating → suitable for dry and sensitive skin,
but probably not oily skin
– suitable for travel (esp. where access to running water is
limited)

6
 FOOD FOR THOUGHT
• Alternative choices
– abrasive scrub? soaps and bar cleansers?
– electronic facial cleansing brush (with or without massaging
functions)?
– toner?
– detoxing masks (e.g., mud, charcoal)?
• some act like a magnet to draw impurities out of pores
→ anything of matter that a good traditional cleanser can’t do?

7
 EXFOLIATION
• help with dermal sloughing and cell turnover
• AHAs (e.g., glycolic & lactic acids) vs. BHA (salicylic acid):
water soluble vs. lipid soluble
– AHAs (skin discolorations & collagen production) → more
suitable for sun-damaged, thickened, or dry skin.
– BHA (pore penetration & bacteria killing) → the best choice
for blackheads and blemishes
– avoid stronger exfoliants, e.g., phenol

8
 EXFOLIATION
• Concentration & pH
– AHAs: 5% to 8%, a pH of 3 to 4 (and not greater than 4.5)
– BHA: 1% to 2%, a pH of 3 (and not greater than 4)

9
 EXFOLIATION
• Sensitivity risk (slight stinging and initial redness are expected)
– AHAs could be irritating & BHA drying to sensitive skin
– a safer alternative for sensitive skin: PHA (e.g.,
gluconolactone, galactose & lactobionic acids)
• the second generation but milder version of AHAs
• unlike most acids, do not increase your skin’s sun
sensitivity
• attract water molecules → moisturizing effects
• rich in antioxidants & stimulate epidermal growth and
repair → anti-aging effects

10
 FOOD FOR THOUGHT
• Natural forms of AHA or BHA cannot exfoliate skin
– Pure water (neutral, neither acidic nor alkaline): pH of 7
– Sugarcane juice (4.6 and above)
– Milk is slightly acidic (6.3 and above)
– Yogurt is more acidic than milk (about 4.4, due to the
conversion of milk sugar or lactose into lactic acid)
– Fun fact: skin is naturally acidic (between 4.7 & 5)

11
12
 SUN PROTECTION
• Skin aging factors
– Intrinsic: genetics and cell
senescence, repetitive muscle
movement and loss of subcutaneous
fat, bone and estrogen
– Extrinsic: sun light, blue lights and
other environmental assaults such
as exposure to pollution and
smoking, including secondhand
smoking. → discuss the reading
→ far sooner (causing 80% of “aging”
we see)

13
 SUN PROTECTION
• BROAD-SPECTRUM protection against UVB (burning) and
UVA (aging)
• UVB protection: >= SPF 30 (sun protection factor)
– SPF: mostly how long a sunscreen will protect you from UVB
(not UVA) rays
– If it took n minutes for redness to appear in unprotected skin
→ 30 times that for the same symptoms to appear in the skin
protected by an SPF 30 sunscreen (in an ideal condition)
– NO 100% UVB blocking: SPF 30 blocks 97%; SPF 50 - 98%;
SPF 100 - 99% → should the the more the merrier principle
apply?

14
 SUN PROTECTION
• UVA protection:
– Active ingredients: titanium dioxide, zinc oxide vs.
avobenzone, Mexoryl SX (ecamsule), or Tinosorb
– currently no globally standardized protection factor for UVA
• PPD (Persistent Pigment Darkening, Asia & Europe): a
PPD of 10 = 10 times longer for your protected skin to tan
• PA: PA+ (PPD of 2 to < 4), PA++ (4 to 8), PA+++ (8 to
16) & PA++++ (>= 16)
• Use other types of physical protection: hat, clothes and
shades

15
 SUN PROTECTION
• Skin aging factors → watch sample clips
– life expectancy [N] vs. lifespan [N] vs. longevity [F]
• They had longer life expectancies than their parents.
• The natural lifespan of a pig is 10–12 years.
• a diet that promotes longevity.
– This later year is not kind to [F] you.
• Fate | Life has been kind to me.
• Summer clothes are less kind to fuller figures.
• Gentle cleansers are much kinder to your face skin than
soaps.

16
 ANTIOXIDATION
• Food-to-energy conversion requires oxygen → oxidation →
generation of electron scavengers or oxidants → interact with
normal cells → free-radical damages, e.g., collagen breakdown
& thinner skin → signs of aging such as sagging skin, wrinkles,
and brown spots → counteracted by antioxidants

17
 RESEARCH-PROVEN ANTIOXIDANTS
• Retinoids
– retinoic acid (usually by prescription, e.g., Retin-A) vs. retinol
(OTC, vitamin A in pure form, concentration: 0.05 to 2%,
same effect, less irritating but longer due to retinoic acid
conversion at cellular level) vs. retinol derivative/pro-retinol
(e.g., retinyl palmitate/acetate/linoleate, least irritating but
weakest)
– acne treatment (unclog pore) & skin rejuvenation (boost cell
turnover, stimulate collagen production, improve wrinkles
and discoloration)

18
 RESEARCH-PROVEN ANTIOXIDANTS
• Retinol guidelines
– patience (average 12 weeks of daily usage for noticeable
effects)
– retinization (redness, dryness, peeling, and light breakouts)
• lower concentration↑
• topical application on dry damp skin
• drying agents, e.g., toners & medicated cleansers
• benzoyl peroxide: oxidize retinoid → less effective
– preferably nighttime use or under sunscreen due to
photolability

19
 RESEARCH-PROVEN ANTIOXIDANTS
• Retinol combined usage
– AHA/BHA: yes, preferably not at the same time
• Retinol stimulates cellular turnover from the deeper layers
up vs. AHA/BHA shed dead skin cells in the uppermost
layers
– Vitamin C: yes
• Vitamin C fights free radicals → help protect retinol from
oxidization
– around the eyes: yes

20
 RESEARCH-PROVEN ANTIOXIDANTS
• vitamin C
– improve firmness, smoothness & skin tone
– L-Ascorbic Acid vs. Tetrahexyldecyl (THD Ascorbate)
• Ascorbic → very unstable & water-soluble → more
irritating to skin → serums: pH < 3.5 (for effective
penetration) & concentration >= 10%
• THD → more stable & fat-soluble → readily permeates
cells → converted to intracellular Ascorbic Acid

21
 RESEARCH-PROVEN ANTIOXIDANTS
• vitamin E
– fat-soluble vitamin
– natural forms are more potent and stable than synthetic
counterparts
– counteract harms from sun exposure
• niacinamide (vitamin B3)
– well tolerated by all skin types
– particularly good at improving the appearance of enlarged
pores

22
 RESEARCH-PROVEN ANTIOXIDANTS
• Ferulic acid
– found naturally in oats, brown rice, whole wheat, pineapples,
and peanuts
– effective for treating sun damage and reversing signs of
aging
• EGCG (in green tea) & resveratrol (in red grapes, red wine,
nuts, and fruits such as blueberries and cranberries)
– skin protection against environment harms & calming effect
on red areas

23
 ANTIOXIDATION
• Combined topical use of a diverse range of antioxidants is
strongly recommended
– e.g, combination of vitamin C, vitamin E & ferulic acid helps
fight sun-induced damage
• proclivity to breaking down after air and light exposure →
packaging matters

24
 ANTIOXIDATION
• Antioxidants: readily and naturally available, esp. in fruits and
vegetables → use a juicer
vs.
– topical application of antioxidant serums?
– dietary supplements, e.g., multi-vitamin doses?

25
 A NOTE OF CAUTION
• Oral consumption of vitamins
– Water-soluble vitamins, e.g., C & Bs are flushed out of your
body with water
– Fat-soluble vitamins, e.g., A, D, E, & K, build up in your body
for long periods of time
• Vitamin A overdose can be bad for your bones
• Vitamin E overdose may increase the risk of heart
problems
→ discuss an extra reading

26
ASSIGNMENT

27
 SKIN LIGHTENING
• the tyrosinase enzyme (associated with the color of our skin,
eyes, and hair) triggers melanocytes to produce melanin →
melanin over-production → skin pigmentation disorders (e.g.,
brown spots) → discuss an extra reading
• skin lighteners vs. skin brighteners: drugs (containing
hydroquinone & kojic acid) vs. cosmetics (containing vitamin C,
arbutin, niacinamide, azelaic acid & the likes)
→ spot treatment (brown spots and freckles) vs. overall
improvement (even skin tone) → combined usage

28
 SKIN LIGHTENING
• hydroquinone
– its 60-year track record in the industry
– some natural skin brightening ingredients (e.g., arbutin and
mulberry extracts) break down into hydroquinone
– over-the-counter hydroquinone (up to 2%) vs. prescribed
hydroquinone (4%) → 3 months of daily usage for noticeable
effects
– packaging matters due to hydroquinone degradation in the
presence of air

29
 SKIN LIGHTENING
• Kojic acid (derived from mushrooms or fermented rice)
– common risk of topical application: allergic dermatitis → a
relatively low concentration
– best used in conjunction with hydroquinone
• Azelaic acid (OTC up to 10%) has potent antioxidant,
antibacterial, comedolytic & skin brightening properties →
treatment of melasma or excessive sun damage
→ watch a sample clip about teeth whitening

30
 MOISTURIZING BASIC
• Humectants (e.g., glycerin & lactic acid) attract water to your
skin.
– Hyaluronic acid
• a.k.a., nature’s moisturizer: binding with water, capable of
holding up to 1,000 times its own weight in water
• helps with collagen synthesis
• aging = decrease in hyaluronic production of the body

31
 MOISTURIZING BASIC
• Occlusives (e.g., petrolatum, lanolin & silicones): leave a film on
the surface of the skin and seal in moisture.
• Intercellular substances (e.g., ceramides, cholesterol & fatty
acids): work to hold skin cells together and maintain skin’s
youthful plumpness
– The 2:4:2 ratio of natural lipids (ceramides, cholesterol &
fatty acids, respectively)

32
moisturizers are most effective when skin is still damp → apply
shortly after cleansing
layered lightest-to-thickest application, e.g., cleanser → serum
→ moisturizer → sunscreen

33
 MOISTURIZING ADVANCED
• cell-communicating or cell-signalling ingredients (e.g., peptides,
retinol & other antioxidants)
– Cell’s network of receptor sites for different substances →
receive messages from a particular ingredient → pass along
messages to nearby cells
– Sun exposure and other environment damages → cells with
deformities and poor behavior → reproduction of even more
abnormal cells
– cell-communicating ingredients tell a skin cell to behave
better & stop other substances from telling the cell to behave
badly.

34
 PROBIOTICS vs. PREBIOTICS
• Our microbiome (a.k.a., ecosystem) = combination of
microorganisms living within and on the surface of our bodies
• Skin’s surface has a specialized microbiome, an abundant
population of microflora → affecting skin’s appearance →
should be kept in balance: resident bacteria (a.k.a., good
microflora) vs. transient bacteria (a.k.a., bad microflora)
• Probiotics vs. Prebiotics: oral vs. topical application

35
 PROBIOTICS
• e.g., Lactobacillus, Bifidabacterium & Vitreoscilla
– found in yogurt and fermented veggies like kimchi
– Kefir: a Russian yogurt-like drink with a diversity of bacteria
(six or seven different strains of probiotics)
• offset negative factors that lead to redness, dryness & acne
• protect skin surface from environmental attack
• contribute to creation of helpful ingredients, e.g., hyaluronic
acid, peptides, ceramides, and vitamins

36
 PREBIOTICS
• plant sugars (e.g., xylitol) and fructooligosaccharides (FOS)
– found in garlic, onions, oats, barley, asparagus, and
bananas
• serve as an energy source for fragile & unstable probiotic
ingredients in skincare products

37
 PROBIOTICS vs. PREBIOTICS
→ A mix of probiotics, prebiotics, and lysate ingredients (a
derivative of probiotics) should be more effective (the rainforest
metaphor)
– As with other organic skincare products, formulation is as
important as ingredient list.

38
 FOOD FOR THOUGHT
• Should we apply yogurt topically?
– anti-inflammatory & anti-acne-bacteria effects of probiotics in
topical use
– psychological effects?
– Notes:
• low-sugar versions
• acne-prone patients with oily complexions: low-fat or fat-
free yogurt

39
 FUN ACTIVITY
• One final joke…

40
 ACNE TREATMENT
• Skin’s perfect condition: dry and tight underneath but oily on top
→ the problem of over-cleaning in triggering oil production
• Non-inflammatory vs. Inflammatory
– whitehead/blackhead: (oxidized) dead skin cells mixing with
trapped oil → enlarge the pore
– blemish: deeper clogs infected with acne bacteria
(Propionibacterium acnes)
• subtypes: papule < pustule/pimple < nodule < cyst

41
 ACNE TREATMENT STEPS
• reduce excess oil production & avoid triggering oil production
(e.g., oil absorbing sheet)
• eliminate skin-cell buildup by effective exfoliation
• kill the P-acnes bacteria, e.g., benzoyl peroxide 2.5% to 5%
• keep skin’s microbiome in balance with probiotic/prebiotic
products

42
 PURGING vs. BREAK-OUT
• acne breakouts due to cell turnover acceleration from certain
skincare products → bring preexisting microcomedones to the
surface sooner
• happens after application of an ingredient (e.g., AHA and
retinol) that speeds up your skin's natural cycle (the 28-day
dead-cell-shed new-cell-born process) → a good sign that the
product is working
• normal purging should NOT last more than six weeks

43
FINAL NOTES

44
 FOOD FOR THOUGHT

http://thebeautybrains.com/2015/01/is-rose-
hip-oil-good-for-anti-aging/

45
 REVIEW II
• Solutions sent via email

46
CLASS WRAP-UP

47
FOOD FOR THOUGHT

48
The End!
49
 REVIEW
• tuổi thọ
– life expectancy vs. lifespan vs. longevity
• kéo dài, tăng cường tuổi thọ
– promote longevity
• thuận lợi, không có tác động xấu
– kind to

50