Fabric Manufturing

II

WEAVING
LOOM:
 Loom is machine or device which is used to
produce woven fabric. It is the central point
of whole process of cloth production.

It is a device used to weave cloth. The basic

purpose of any loom is to hold the warp threads
under tension to facilitate the interweaving of
the weft threads. The precise shape of the loom
and its mechanics may vary, but the basic
function is the same.
CHRONOLOGICAL/ HISTORICAL DEVELOPMENT OF LOOM

1. Vertical loom: Damask, Tapestry.

2. Pit loom.
3. Frame loom.
4. Chittarangan/ Semi-automatic loom:Take up automatic but let off manually.
5. Hattersley loom.
6. Natural Source/ Ordinary power loom: a) Water wheel was until 195
b) Steam engine
c) Diesel engine

7. Electric power loom: 1st power loom 1784

1st weaving mill with power loom 1789
a) Large single motor
b) Large group motor
c) Individual motor with 1930
8. Modern loom:
a) Projectile
b) Rapier
c) Air Jet
d) Water Jet
e) Multiphase
PRIMITIVE OR VERTICAL LOOM:
PIT LOOM:

Weaving has a long tradition in Egypt going back as far
as 6,000BC during which time methods have changed
enormously. This simple pit loom is the kind that is
frequently found in farms and villages operated by men
and women who make carpets, chair covers, shawls,
blankets and bed covers

The weaver sits with his or her legs in the pit where there
are two pedals which open the warp threads allowing the
weft shuttle to pass through freely. This type of loom
leaves the weavers' hands free to pass the weft shuttle
through from side to side and to compress the weaving as
they go.
PIT LOOM
FRAME LOOM
 Simple and effective
- wonderful introduction to weaving
- very quick to warp and weave
- strong
- compact
Create wall hangings, cushions, tablemats and
coasters. The loom is ideal for students or any
weaver wanting a simple way to be creative. Made
from solid Silver Beech hard wood the frames are
strong and robust for a variety of warps and tensions.
Small and compact, the weaving frame is ideal for
taking on holiday. The finished piece can be left in the
frame and hung on the wall
FRAME LOOM
 Loom motions: There are three types of loom
motions:-
1. Primary
2. Secondary.
3. Tertiary.
Primary motions are: a) Shedding b) Picking c)
Beating.
Secondary motions are: a) Take-up b) Let-off
Tertiary motions are: a) Warp stop b) Weft stop c) Reed
stop.

Drafting: The process of passing yarn through the drop wire

is called drafting.
Drawing: The process of passing yarn through the heald eye
is called drawing.
Denting: The process of passing yarn through the reed is
called denting.
POWER DEVELOPMENT OF LOOM DRIVE
1. Hand loom: Human power drive
2. Power loom:
1. Water wheel
2. Steam wheel
3. Diesel Wheel
4. Electric wheel
3. Large common motor (200loom/ motor)
4. Group motor ( 200 loom/ motor)
5. Individual motor invented at 1930
1. Direct drive
2. Indirect drive
6. Multiple motor : for each modern loom
GROUP MOTOR
Disadvantage:
 Absenteeism of warker
 Shortage of raw materials
 Shortage of worker
 Style change
 Shortage of spare parts
 Natural calamities
 Political issue
 Power loss
Advantages:
 Less man power required
 Minimum cable required
 Less initial cost
 Less electric complexity
INDIVIDUAL MOTOR
 Advantage:
 Randomly power supply
 Power saving
 Simple driving system
 Least amount of production loss
 Disadvantage:
 Higher initial cost
 More cable required
 More possibility of fire hazard
 Maximum electric personnel required
 Distribution and sub distribution board required
 High manpower
METHODS OF POWER DRIVE IN WEAVING LOOM:
 Direct drive
 Loom driven directly by on-off system of motor

 High initial torque is required

 Saves energy

 No side way thrust is required

 High initial cost

 Used in jute loom

 No use of clutch

 Indirect drive
 Clutch declutch system

 Low initial torque

 Apply undesirable side way thrust

 Low initial cost

SHEDDING:
 Dividation of warp threads into two parts for
insertion of weft threads is called shed and
mechanism of shed is called shedding.it is the
first primary motion of weaving.
Types of shed:
 Bottom close shed
 Centre close shed
 Semi open shed
 Open shed
BOTTOM CLOSE SHED
 This type of
shedding is produced
B
by giving motion
C
only to threads that
are to form the upper
line.under this condition, A
the warp is level in the
bottom line. Hence in A Bottom line of warp
order to form a top shed B Rising and falling line
it is necessary to move C An arrow showing the space
some threads through a passed through
space equal to twice the
depth of a shed.
ADVANTAGE:
 Used in hand loom
 Alternate tightening and slacking the warp threads
produce a covered cloth

DISADVANTAGE:
 More stress or tension on top warp line
 Different tension on the warp threads
 Low speed
 Not possible to produce compact fabric
 Poor quality fabric
 More chance of breakage on top warp line
 More power consumption
CENTRE CLOSE SHED
 This type of shed is produced by imparting an upward
movement to those threads which are to form the top line
and a downward movement to the threads which are to form
the bottom line. Then after inserting pick both trhe lines
meet at the centre between the highest and lowest lines of a
divided warp
B

D
 A Closed warp line
 B, C Upper and lower lines of
a divided warp A A
E
 D Arrow showing the half distance
of a shed in an upward direction C
E Arrow showing the half distance
of a shed in a downward direction
ADVANTAGE:
 Equal tension on top and bottom warp line
 Less time required, so high production
 Less wear of the machine
 Less power consumption
 Less tear of the threads

DISADVANTAGE:
 Beat up takes place in the closed shed
 Compact fabric can not be produced
 Chance of weft being moved backward
SEMI OPEN SHED
 In this shed, the stationary bottom is retained but threads
for the top line either passes to bottom at one movement
and again carried to the top mid way and again carried to
top. In this shed close and open shed occurred
simultaneously. In it the stationary bottom line is retained,
but threads for the top line either pass to the bottom at
one movement, or are arrested midway and again carried
to the top. Such a shed can be formed as expeditiously as
an open shed, for the upward movement begins and ends
with the downward through movement, and the arrested
downward movement is converted into an upward
movement immediately the falling threads are in the same
plane as the rising ones. They all reach the top together
but the strain upon them is not equally distribut
SEMI-OPEN SHED:

A STATIONARY BOTTOM LINE

B TOP POINT
C THE POINT WHERE DOWNWARD MOVEMENT CEASES IN THREADS
D, E SHOWING THE MOVEMENT OF THROUGH HEALDS
F ARROW SHOWING THE THREADS WHICH ARE TO LIFT FOR THE NEXT PICK
F

C E D

A
SEMI-OPEN SHED:
ADVANTAGE:
 Equal tension on the top and bottom warp line
 Beat up takes place in the close shed
 Speed faster
 For fency fabric
 Less power need
 Less tear of threads
 Possible to produce compact fabric

Disadvantage:
unusual movement
OPEN SHED:
 In open shed, the warp threads form two stationary lines,
the top line and the bottom line and changes are made by
carrying the threads from one fixed line to the other without
any interval.
 A, B Stationary warp line
C, D Arrows which show the movement of rising and
falling warp to equal the distance between A & B
B

C D

A
OPEN SHED
ADVANTAGE:
 Beat up takes place in cross shed condition
 Equal tension top and bottom warp threads
 Faster speed
 Extensively used in tappet shedding mechanism
 Basic fabric (twill, sateen, plain) can be produced
 Less power consumption
 Less wear of loom
DISADVANTAGE:
 High breakage rate
 If higher no of heald shafts are used then warp in back
healds are more stained than the front ones
BASIC SHEDDING MECHANISMS:

1. Paddle/ treadle loom: hand loom

2. Tappet shedding mechanism
3. Dobby shedding mechanism
4. Jacquard shedding mechanism
5. Combined shedding
TAPPET SHEDDING
A type of cam which transforms a rotary motion into a
reciprocating motion in rods and levers by sliding
contact is tappet.
When the receives a series of lifts, with intervals of rest
and thus forms a shed called tappet

Scope of tappet shedding:

 Maximum capacity 14 heald shafts
 Normally produce square design
 Only the basic weave and small design are produced
CONSTRUCTION OF TAPPET SHEDDING:
 The figure shows a negative tappet shedding mechanism. A pair
of tappets A and B are fixed to the bottom shaft C at 180 degrees
to each other. Two treadle levers D and E are connected to the
loom back-rail by a bracket F.
The bracket acts as a fulcrum for the levers. The two treadles
have teeth to carry the lamb rods G and H respectively. Two
heald shafts J and K are connected to the lamb rods. A top
reversing roller shaft Q carries two rollers of different diameters.
The roller of small diameter N is connected to a leather strap L to
which the front heald shaft J is connected. The roller P of large
diameter is connected to a leather strap M to which the back
heald shaft K is connected. The tappets A and B touch the anti-
friction bowls or followers R and S respectively, which are fixed to
the treadle levers. The heald shafts have heald eyes T and U
through which the war p threads pass X is the war p sheet and Y
is the cloth. The odd ends are passed through one heald shaft
while the even ends are passed through the other heald shaft.
WORKING PRINCIPLE OF TAPPET:
 When the bottom shaft is rotate as shown in the figure, the
tappets also rotate. The tappet will depress the anti-friction bowl
and the treadle. Being fulcrumed at one end, the front portion of
the treadle moves down. This action is transferred to the lamb
rod, the heald shaft and the leather strap. So one heald shaft is
lowered and the threads connected to this heald shaft are
lowered and form the bottom layer of the shed.
 The leather straps attached to the reversing rollers are
connected in opposite directions, i.e. when leather strap is pulled
down, it is unwound from its roller. The shaft therefore rotates in
the clockwise direction and the other leather strap is wound on to
its roller. The heald shaft is raised and therefore the lamb rod and
treadle lever are also raised. The threads connected to the heald
shaft are also raised and form the top layer of the shed.
 For the next shed, the other tappet works with the other set of
bowl, treadle, lamb rod, heald shaft, strap and roller and the other
heald shaft is lowered.
TYPES OF TAPPET:

 Negative tappet: in a tappet shedding

mechanism if the tappet controls only one
movement either an upward or downward
movement of heald shaft, then the shedding is
known as negative tappet shedding.
 Positive tappet: : in a tappet shedding
mechanism if the tappet controls both the
upward and downward movement of heald
shaft,then the shedding is known as positive
tappet shedding.
ADVANTAGES OF TAPPET SHEDDING:
 Simplest
 Cheapest
 If properly used, it gives the best results within
its capasity
 Action is certain
 It is capable of lifting heavy weights with less
wear and tear than other shedding mechanisms
 Less wear and tear
 Consumes less power and give greater output
DEFECTS OF TAPPET SHEDDING:

 Over shedding strains and breaks the warp

threads
 Under shedding does not permit the space to
pass the shuttle through the shed.
 Sometimes unequal shedding by lifting one end
of the shaft more than the other
 Missed shedding
 May impart jerky motion
 Capacity is only 14 heald shaft