What is a Roof Truss?

Roof trusses are frames made up of timber that is nailed, bolted or pegged
together to form structurally interdependent shapes of great strength. 

Roof trusses have to withstand the weight of the roof timbers and coverings
(the ‘Dead Load’), plus a factor for your local Wind Load, plus a factor for
your local Snow Load, plus a Safety Factor. 

What Makes a Roof Truss Stand up?

The truss depends on three main characteristics, which can be given ‘numbers’ so that a
Structural Engineer can calculate a safe load;

● The strength of the timbers – modern trusses are very lightweight, so only structural kiln
dried timber is used and it is usually pre-treated, to prevent insect and rot attack.

● The distribution of the load through the parts – the design is critical – if you take one
component out, or weaken it (say by cutting notches for pipes) it will be seriously weakened

● The connection of the parts – the bolts, plates, screws, glue or pegs that hold it all together.
These must not be cut or changed without professional advice

What Causes Roof Truss Failure?

The biggest enemy of roof structures (apart from the notch cutting or hole drilling electrician or
plumber) is Water.

● Penetrating damp – water leaks – these lead to rot and insect attack, even in treated timber,
which is not always treated all the way through its thickness. Older buildings are most
susceptible, especially where the rafters or tie beams sit on, or in the walls. Treatment with
boron based preservatives is essential if dampness has affected the wood

● Rot and Insect Attack – usually associated with dampness, but mainly in older, pre-Second
World war properties, where solid, non-cavity walls or thick random stone walls support the
bearing ends of the rafters and/or tie beams. Treatment with boron based preservatives is
essential to stop the rot and insects from destroying the roof’s structural bearings. These
potentially damp areas require careful inspection with a torch and prodding with a
screwdriver. Drilling with a small diameter Auger is advised, if you have any doubt about the
strength of a component.

● Joint Failure – modern roof structures mostly use ‘nail plates’ or plywood plates fixed with
nails, screws and glue. Older roof timbers were connected with Mortise and Tenon joints,
 plus wooden pegs. These tend to be eaten away by woodworm and the roof beams then
move, opening up the joints. Resin Repair, with Tie Bars and injected resin, can solve this
problem

How to Repair Roof Trusses

If you have found that you have damaged roof trusses, joists or rafters then this can be a big
problem and in turn cause knock on effects such as sagging ceilings, sagging roofs, additional
load stress on other areas, transferance of the cause of the damage into other materials
e.g. woodworm can travel from one set of timbers to another or damp and dry rot can affect
adjoining timbers etc….

Before any repairs are made it is essential that, firstly, the cause of damage is identified and
fixed as you don’t want to go to the hassle and cost of repairing the damage just for it to come
back in the future because the root cause was not sorted.

Check all areas around the damaged area e.g. roof tiles, brickwork, mortar joints and pointing,
chimney stack, water storage tanks, timber and woodwork (woodworm or infestation),
plumbing/heating system and pipework and anything else that may be unique to your property
until you establish the cause.

Once this has been cured you can then look at getting the damaged timber(s) sorted. In most
cases you have three options:

● Removal and replacement of entire truss if it is beyond repair

● Repair using timber resin splice

● Repair using joist end repair plates

● Timber Resin Repairs for Roof Trusses

● There is always the possibility in older properties that your rafters, joists or trusses may
have dropped at one end because over time the timber has become rotten and compressed
due to long term exposure to damp.

● it is now possible to replace sections of joists and rafters, in-situ by TRS method
The basis of the repair process is as follows:

● Damaged timbers are identified and assessed and a decision is made as to whether they are
repairable

● Joist, rafter or truss is examined in more detail to determine the extent of the damage and the
point along the length of the timber is identified where it is stable enough for the splice to be
applied

● Suitable props are put in place along the timber to support it during the repair and to take the
load of the floor above and/or weight of the roof

● The top side of the joist or truss will need to be accessed so loft boarding or floor boards will
need to be removed

● Damaged section of timber is cut and removed leaving only healthy timber
● New timber section is prepared by first accurately measuring what’s needed and then cutting
a suitable length. Next drill the required number of holes into the front face end of the timber
along it’s length and high tensile threaded steel bars are inserted and bonded in

New joist or truss section with threaded steel bars inserted and bonded

● The existing timber section will now need to be prepped to take the new section. To do this
you will need to cut a slot into the existing truss, rafter or joist in a "U" shape to the required
length of the threaded steel bars in the new section of timber

Slot cut out in existing timber

● The new section of timber is now put in place with the threaded steel bars sitting in the slot.
If all faces meet flat then they are bonded together
● Now mix the resin as directed on the packaging by the manufacturer until it is smooth

● Pour the resin into the slot in the existing timber until you have filled the space to the very
top. In most cases the resin will self level itself

Pouring resin into slot in timber

● Leave the resin to harden as directed by the manufacturer

Hardened resin in slots in timber

● Once set you can then remove the supporting props and replace any floor boards or loft
boards etc….

● If you have several timbers that need repairing, each repair should be carried out one at a
time.
 Joist
End Repair Plates for Roof Trusses
It involves cutting away the damaged end and replacing with a new piece .the two sections are
joined using galvanised steel plates.

The basics of the process are as follows:

● Inspect and assess the damaged section of timber and determine where it needs to be cut to

● Prop the timber along it’s length using suitably sturdy props

● Once supported, cut off the damaged end leaving only solid un-damaged timber

● Now, measure and cut a replacement piece of timber. This has to be the same size in width
and depth as the old e.g. if the old timber is 8 x 4 inches then that is what you will need to
use

● Next, sit the new timber into the repair plate(s). Depending on the manufacturer will depend
on the types of plates you have. Some will be a "U" shape and some will be two "L" shape
sections. Ensure that the timber is pushed flat against the base of the plate unit or plate
sections and then screw into place using coach screws

● Position the new timber with fixed repair plates into place with the non-plate end sitting in or
on top of the wall depending on how the original was and ensure that the plate end sits over
the original timber and that they are butted together firmly

● Before screwing the plate to the existing timber it might be a good idea to get another prop
and position it under the plate and push it firmly against the base of the original timber

● With both timbers joined securly in position you can now slowly release and remove the
props
Joist end plate fixed to new timber setion

Damage to Timber Joists and Floors

There are three main types of timber damage, but they are all caused by damp.

Timber will start to decay at above 18% moisture content (in average softwood
species, like an ordinary Pine), so elimination of dampness is our main concern. 18%
dampness means nearly one-fifth of the timber is damp and this can happen purely as a
result of condensation, leaking roofs, rising damp and other forms of exposure to
moisture.

Timber in the home should be inspected periodically to make sure it is not exposed to
any of these problems.

Types of Damage to Structural Timber

Wet Rot

When an area, or section is exposed to water, taking it’s moisture content above 18%,
fungus or mycelium can start to "feed" off the timber and grow into and from the
wood.

There are many types of fungus that make up the wet rot category, they include
Coniophora Puteana and Poria Vaillantii with Coniophora being the main culprit. The
fungus feeds off the wood making it soft and spongy.
Wet rot is often first noticed when floors, especially ground-floor, floor joists become
springy under foot. Possible causes of wet-rot are.

● Unpainted and untreated timber exposed to water from roof

● Condensation water arising from lack of ventilation to roof or floor timbers

especially with hollow floors. Condensation can also badly effect window sills,
when condensation moisture is allowed to collect on window surfaces and run down
and collect on a sills surface

● Water accumulating and being soaked up by timbers from leaking pipes, leaking
wastes (bath or sink), hoses from washing machines and dishwashers etc…..

● Rising damp making floor slabs and/or walls wet which in turn can affect the backs
of skirting boards and door frames where no paint is usually applied

For more information on identification of wet rot, how it is caused and the remedies
for it, go to our project page.

Dry Rot

Starting in a wet area of the timber, dry rot or Serpula Lacrymans is another fungus
which literally sucks the life out of timber.

Unlike wet rot however, when dry rot has consumed all the moisture from one damp
area of timber, it searches out another and travels over all manner of surfaces to get to
it. This way it can destroy whole properties if it’s journey remains undetected.

The causes of the damp which attracts dry rot can be the same as wet rot but the spores
of the dry rot fungus germinate and then spread in very fine, almost cob-web like
strands. These strands can travel across wood, plaster, brick and any surface where
they can get a hold in their search for new damp patches of timber.

Ways to identify dry rot include:

● Large mushroom type growths on the timber surface

● Large, deep (mostly square shaped) cracks in the timber surface and cubing of
timber

● Orange colour spots or spores around the mushrooms or any other growth appearing
on the timber

● Strings which look like a very dense cobweb running across surfaces.
For more information on dry rot, go to our information on dry rot identification, causes
and remedies.

Insect Attack

Damp can attract woodworm beetles such as the Death Watch Beetle (Xestobium
Rufovillosum) and woodboring Weevils (Pentarthrum Huttoni and Euophryum
Confine) at the most extreme degree.

In fact, the woodboring weevil will generally be found in timber where fungus has
started to take root. The causes of the damp can still be the same but the insect attack
will be fairly local. Most wood boring insects prefer timber with a fairly high moisture
content.

Damage from woodworm of any kind can originate either in the growing tree, where
there is plenty of moisture or in the timber yard where most timber planks are stacked,
very close to each other, allowing little or no ventilation and the timber gets damp
through both rain and condensation.

Signs of attack from wood boring insects or woodworm are usually the emergence
holes (between 1mm and 1.5mm diameter). For more information see our project on
woodworm and how to identify it.

Joist damaged by damp – Wet timber invites problems from fungi and insects

Damage to brick caused by dry rot soaking up moisture as it travels across

Methods for Repairing Structural Timbers Safely
The ability to effect repairs on timber joists, beams, rafters, purlins, floorboards and all
forms of structural timbers is not limited to today’s techniques.

Carpenters have been splicing timbers with special joints for hundreds of years with
many of these repairs still evident today in many old buildings and indeed, ships!

To make the right choice for your repair you may need some help over and Firstly,
look for the source of the problem before you deal with the effects.

As good as modern methods are at repair and prevention of attack from water,
moisture and wood boring insects, it is tempting fate to just carry on with the repair
until you have adequately diagnosed the cause of the problem.

If it is a damp problem, look for (and repair) the source of the damp.

You may need to re-roof or take a look at how your roof tiles are fixed to your roof. It
may be that they are not at the correct spacing (gauge) and the rain is blowing up
underneath them.

It could also be that your chimney or other flashing’s are not fitted correctly or have
slipped out of their joints.

It could be that condensation is the cause and has built up because of lack of
ventilation’s. This can be addressed on our pages dealing with the effects of
condensation.

If leaking pipes or hoses are at fault you need to repair immediately to stop further
damage to the new work you are about to do and if the damp problem has arisen
because of a faulty damp proof course then this needs to be addressed urgently.

Repairing Joist Ends

The supported ends of joists can become damp because they rest inside or close to the
support walls and easily absorb water from damp soil, humid air or water leaks.

This can include water traveling over the top of the brickwork through loose or broken
tiles and blocked gutters. Wall plates can be affected also.

If there is little or no ventilation in the damp area, the moisture will not have the
chance to evaporate and the timber will develop fungus as explained above therefore
any repair or treatment must include attention to the Air Bricks or other ventilation
(See our project covering air bricks and vents).

There are a number of ways to repair structural timber. The easiest way to repair joist
ends is to fit joist repair plates.

These come as a pair of ″L″ shaped, metal plates complete with screws and
instructions.

They have the advantage that joists are extended back into or onto the original bearing.

A pair of joist repair plates

Joist repair plates are bolted to the sides of damaged joists

Joist repair plates fixed to timbers

How to Position, Fix and Align Joist Plates

The best way to repair the end of a joist is to remove the damp or affected end after the
floor or ceiling has been propped up as one would if removing or forming an opening
through a load-bearing wall, with Acrow Props.

A new piece of timber is cut (A) to replace the damaged piece and the joists plates are
positioned ether side of the joists with the end of the joist plate right up against the
edge of the timber so it is the joist plate that site on the bearer (A).

The joist plate is bolted to the timber making the joint (B) as strong as the original
joist. The length of the joist plate on the original side of the joist (C) is usually at least
twice that of the piece that replaces the damaged section (A).

Treating Joist Ends

As well as a joist plate, if required, the end grain cut (A) and the support area should
be thoroughly treated with Boron Ultra Gel and a piece of damp proofing material,
such as DPC plastic should then be placed underneath, to prevent damp from finding
its way from the wall into your new timber. Use pre-treated timber if possible.

The Boron Gel is diluted with water to create a 5% solution and painted on the ends,
and joints of timber. This then provides a barrier to prevent attack from woodworm
and also will fend off dry rot.

Applying Boron gel by brush to new or damaged timber

Providing Enough Air Flow to Prevent Damp

Most properties will feature air bricks – these allow the flow of air either in roof spaces
or under suspended floors and prevent the build-up damp and moisture. When it comes
to air bricks on the outside wall of your property you should ensure that there is at least
one brick per 2.25 meters of outside wall length.

You will also have to ensure that any outside ground is significantly below any air
bricks as if not, this may restrict air flow and damp issues may result.

To these ends, ensure that air bricks are clear from soil build-up, pathways or tarmac
and other obstructions.

Repairing Carrier Beams and Support Beams

Carrier or support beams are normally larger timbers than joists and in respect to this,
it might not be possible to use the joist repair plate system previously mentioned.

Carrier and support beams are usually (these days) installed as steel RSJ’s but in older
properties or barn conversions these may well be existing timbers or indeed new, very
large timbers, to maintain the integrity of the building and also to maintain it’s
traditional aesthetic look. There may also be certain conservation rules that stipulate
that any repairs should maintain an existing look.

If timbers are larger than 10 x 2 inches (or 250mm x 50mm) then the most suitable
repair will be to use a Timber-Resin Splice.

This system normally comes in the form of a kit for easy use and provides a new piece
of timber (D), with zinc plated high tensile metal bars or rods (E).

Using resin bonded bars to repair joists and rafters

These high tensile bars will be pre-bonded into one end of the timber beam, ready for
you to fit using the resins provided in the kit.
The basis of this repair method involves firstly supporting the timber so that the load
weight is taken off the supporting point and the weight from the above floor or roof is
stable and then the damaged section of timber is cut off far enough along the length of
the timber so that only undamaged timber is left. Obviously now your timber is going
to be too short to reach the original support.

To resolve this, in the length of timber that is left you will now need to cut a slot in the
top of it that is slightly longer than the protruding high tensile bars in the replacement
timber splice you have. Now you can place your timber splice up to the existing timber
with the high tensile bars resting in the slot that you have just cut.

Slot cut in existing timber to take steel rods in timber splice

Finally, the resin supplied with the kit is poured into the slot, bonding the high tensile
bars into the existing timber. Once the resin has cured and set, the supports can be
removed and the new splice section will then rest on the original supporting point
creating your newly repaired timber.

If you would like some more information on the process of using joist splice kits to
extend the joist to the wall plate and mount it back in position have a look here.

Treating Carrier Beams and Wall Plates

Boron is an excellent treatment for damp timber. It can be applied as a paste and
inserted into 10mm holes drilled in the timber.

The properties of Boron will kill all wood boring insects as well as killing and
preventing further growth of all fungicidal spores which are the causes of wet and dry
rot.

The image below shows boron paste being injected in to a 10mm hole drilled in a new
piece of timber which is about to be attached by joist plates, to an existing roof timber.
Boron paste as used in timber joists and rafters

Timber is used widely in houses and buildings but can be vulnerable material that needs to be protected. One
of the main threats to structural timber is wet rot and dry rot. 

It is important that these two types of fungal decay are distinguished because they require
different treatment. In this guide, we take you through identifying wet rot and dry rot, and the types of
treatment available. Both types of decay will require professional diagnosis and treatment, but we want to
provide you with plenty of information so that you are well informed.
If you have already had a diagnosis then you can jump to the relevant treatment section here:

 
 Wet Rot
Dry Rot
 

Wet Rot 
What is Wet Rot?
Wet Rot is a fungus that affects very damp timber. It can also cause decay in plaster, wallpaper and carpets.
Wet rot spores are attracted to materials with a high moisture content. 

Compared to dry rot, wet rot is less destructive as wet rot remains confined to the wet area only but still
needs to be treated as it can affect a building’s structural integrity.

Is wet rot a fungus?

Wet Rot is a fungus. The scientific name of the fungus is Coniophora puteana.

Types of Wet Rot

Wet Rot is a general term for several fungal species, the most common being Coniophora Puteana, also
known as cellar fungus.

Why does wet rot occur?

Wet Rot occurs when excess moisture is present in timber over long periods of time. This type of decay
affects wet timber by causing it to soften.  

Wet rot is caused by moisture being absorbed into this timber. This moisture can originate from different
sources.

Common causes of wet rot: 

The common causes of wet rot include the following:

● Roof defects
● Plumbing leaks
● Leaky or blocked gutters
● Shower trays and around baths
● Penetrating damp through walls
● Condensation
Do I have wet rot?
Identifying wet rot is not always easy because some of the symptoms of wet rot are similar to those of dry
rot. Wet rot should be identified by a professional who can tell it apart from other forms of rot by the
differing colour of the decayed timber as well as the size and type of cracking it exhibits as the wet rot
progresses.

The common signs of wet rot include:

● Darkened timber – darker than surrounding timber

● Soft and spongy timber
● Cracked appearance that may crumble to touch when dry
● Localised fungus growth
● Shrinkage 
● A damp, musty smell
Damaged or flaky paint can sometimes be a sign of wet rot. However, with painted wood it can be harder to
see evidence of wet rot. If you stick a screwdriver into the wood and it goes in easily this suggests you have
an issue with rot.

Does wet rot have a smell?

Wet rot is more likely to smell than dry rot. It has a damp, musty smell that has been described as smelling
earthy and like rotting soil.

Where is wet rot commonly found?

Wet rot is commonly found in cellars, roofs and in timbers around windows. 

Pictures of Wet Rot

Many people want to know what wet rot looks like and how to tell it apart from dry rot. We have provided
some photographs as examples of wet rot:

Small yellow patch of wet rot on dark wood panel By Mätes II. (Own work) [CC BY-SA 3.0] via Wikimedia Commons 
Wet rot close-up picture - By Jason Hollinger [CC BY 2.0], via Wikimedia Commons 
Effects of wet rot
The danger with wet rot is that left untreated, the timber starts to lose its strength and in some situations may
become dangerously unsafe.

Wet Rot Treatment  

To solve issues with wet rot, it is important to first identify the source of moisture and stop the cause of the
damp. Alternatively, you can isolate the timber from the damp source before treating the affected areas.

In some extreme cases you will need to replace the affected timbers. However, in most cases you can stop
wet rot by treating the timber with a fungicide.

The treatment of wet rot involves applying a fungicide during the drying out period. Usually the fungicide
comes as a concentrate and will need to be diluted. It can then be applied using a brush or a low pressure
sprayer. 
These treatments will eradicate the wet rot, as long as the source of the water ingress has been stopped.

Important note:  When treating the area affected by wood rot, you should also treat the areas that are not
yet affected. This will prevent future outbreaks of the decay.
Wet rot wood hardener 
You can also purchase wet rot wood hardeners that soak into the timber and give it strength. These products
are mainly suitable for doors and window frames.

Wet Rot Products 

Lignum Fungicide and Insecticide Pro – a professional treatment for wet rot, dry rot and woodworm

Universal Wood Preserver - protection against wet rot, dry rot and general wood rot

  

Dry Rot
What is Dry Rot?
Dry rot is the most serious form of fungal decay. It attacks the timber in buildings, digesting the parts of the
timber that give it its strength.

It can spread without any source of moisture because it is able to generate moisture through the digestion of
timber. Once dry rot spreads, it can severely damage the structural integrity of the building.

If you think you may have dry rot, you should arrange for a professional to carry out a survey and treat it as
soon as possible. If the dry rot is not identified and treated immediately, it may be necessary to remove and
replace all of the affected timber.

Is dry rot a fungus?

Dry rot is a wood-destroying fungus. Its scientific name is Serpula Lacrymans. 

Dry rot fungus by Marcela (Own work) [GFDL 1.2 (http://www.gnu.org/licenses/old-licenses/fdl-1.2.html)], via Wikimedia
Commons
Why does dry rot occur?
Dry rot spores exist in the atmosphere but only become a problem when they find themselves in the right
conditions to germinate. These conditions involve damp timber with a moisture content of around 20% and
that is freely accessible to air. 

Causes of dry rot

The moisture in the timber that allows for dry rot to develop is usually the result of a building fault of some
sort. Therefore dry rot in homes is often caused by the following:
● leaking gutters & downpipes
● penetrating damp 
● poor ventilation
● rising damp 
Stages of Dry Rot
There are four main stages in the dry rot lifecycle.

1. Spores – Dry rot fungus exists as spores in the air. It is present almost everywhere. The spores remain
inactive until there is a source of food (timber), a certain amount of moisture (around 20%), and air.
2. Hyphae – Spores that land on moist timber will start to grow as hyphae. These fine white tendrils
infiltrate the timber, breaking it down. These cobweb strands act as tubes extracting and transporting
moisture, like roots, from the timber.  
3. Mycelium – As these hyphae grow, they combine together and become mycelium – a cotton-wool like
substance (see below). Mycelium then starts to spread in search of new timber. 

 
 White mycelium dry rot on timber By Katarzyna KÅ‚os (Own work) [CC BY-SA 3.0], via Wikimedia Commons 
4. Fruiting Body - When the fungus reaches the final stage, it fruits in a mushroom-like body. The centre of
this body produces new spores (red in colour) that will become airborne and allow for the continued spread
of the dry rot fungus.
 Dry rot fruiting bodies on stairs By Mycoteam AS [Copyrighted free use] via Wikimedia Commons
 
How does dry rot spread?
Dry rot as mycelium can travel through various materials, including brickwork and masonry. This means it
can spread throughout a property. In poorly ventilated conditions, dry rot can thrive. Once the dry rot fruits,
it can then pump more spores into the area. 

Do I have Dry Rot?

It can be difficult to identify dry rot, especially in the early stages. The best evidence of dry rot such as
mycelium and fruiting bodies occurs later in the lifecycle.

Identifying Dry Rot

The symptoms of dry rot can include the following:

● fine & fluffy white mycelium spreading across the wood. Brittle strands may develop amongst the mycelium
● grey-whitish ‘skin’ tinged with yellow and lilac patches
● mushroom-like fruiting body – soft, fleshy and looks like a pancake or a bracket – often orangey in colour,
rust coloured in the centre, with wide pores
● red dust from spreading spores, often found around fruiting bodies 
 This video shows an inspection of a particularly extreme case of dry rot infestation.
 Dry Rot in Wood
● splitting and cracking of timber into small cubes
● shrinking of the timber
● dry, brittle, crumbly timber
● darker timber
Dry Rot in Flooring
Signs of dry rot in flooring can be hard to see as it occurs under the floorboards. You may find that the floor
feels bouncy, drops away from the skirting boards or floorboards may start to creak more.  

Dry Rot in Masonry

Dry rot in masonry can be a serious problem. Signs of dry rot in walls are hard to see and can take several
months or years before any external evidence of the fungus presents itself. If you know that timbers are
affected then you should presume that the nearby masonry / brickwork has dry rot and treat accordingly. 

Brickwork by By Mätes II. - Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0 - via Wikimedia Commons
What does dry rot smell like?
Dry rot has a damp mushroomy smell. It may also smell musty. 

What does dry rot look like?

Pictures of Dry Rot
The following are photos of dry rot: 
Dry rot hyphae and mycelium by Mätes II. (Own work) [CC BY-SA 3.0] via Wikimedia Commons
 
Fruiting body on wall By Verber31 (Own work) [GFDL (http://www.gnu.org/copyleft/fdl.html) or CC BY 3.0], via Wikimedia
Commons 
 
Dry rot in corner of basement by Sachverständigenbüro für Zimmerei und Holzbau Lutz Weidner  [GFDL or CC-BY-SA-3.0]
via Wikimedia Commons
Effects of Dry rot
There are several problems with dry rot in particular the damage to the structural integrity of a building. A
house with dry rot is not a pleasant place to be. As the most serious form of fungal decay, it can also make it
difficult to sell a house.

Dry Rot and Health

Dry rot spores in themselves are not harmful to your health. However, the damp conditions the fungus needs
to germinate can represent a health hazard for older people, infants and those with respiratory conditions.

Dry Rot Treatment

The first stage of treatment of dry rot is to find the source of the moisture and fix the fault.

You will then need to determine the full extent of the dry rot outbreak. In order to do this you should open
up the affected area by removing plaster and render in all directions as well as removing flooring and lifting
floorboards. You should now be in a position to identify the infected timbers. 

Dry rot treatment for wood & timber

Once you have identified the infected timbers, it is recommended that you cutback the timbers in-situ to at
least 500mm beyond the last signs of fungal growth or hyphae strands.

You will then need to remove all fruiting bodies and visible spores. Clean all wall areas to remove surface
growth including hyphae, mycelium and fruiting bodies. A stiff brush can be used on the walls if required.

You should replace the timber with pre-treated timber. All remaining sound timber should then be liberally
treated with a dual purpose dry rot treatment fluid. These specially formulated fungicides will kill dry rot
and stop re-infestations, preventing any further outbreaks of the fungus. 
You will also need to sterilise the masonry.

Masonry Dry Rot Treatment

Masonry surfaces will need to be sterilised with a masonry dry rot treatment. Dry rot treatments for masonry
and brickwork involve applying a high strength fungicidal microemulsion concentrate either by spray or
injection.
Designed to penetrate deep into the substrate, the biocide targets the fungus and stops it from spreading. It
delivers long lasting control of dry rot and fungal growth in the masonry. It can also be used as a subfloor
steriliser where necessary in areas of dry rot outbreaks.