Cut & sew knitwear

Weaving: that is a process of woven fabric manufacturing

Knitting: that is the process of knit fabric manufacturing
Cut & sew knitwear: when cutting & sewing is essential to make knit garments
that is called cut & sew knit wear.

Knitting :-

Different between woven knit:

woven
1.Plain, twill & satin are 3 basic
structure of knit.
2.Here need 2 set of yarn.
3.Dimensional stability high.
4.It made by interlacing of 2 set of
yarn.
knit
1.Single jersey, rib, & interlock are 3
basic structure of knit.
2.Here need 1 set of yarn.
3.Dimensional stability comparatively
poor.
4.It made by interloping of 1 set
of yarn

Grey fabric: without any process fabric is called gray fabric.

Finished fabric: the fabric which is ready to cut in apparel manufacturing
that is finished fabric.

Assembling: when all cut components are joined together by sewing that is
called assembling.

Two forms we can use for spreading (knit fabric): -

1. Tubular width. 2. Open width

1
Table measurement:- Cutting table length = 30 yards
Cutting table width = 2 yards

Straight knife’s knife length = 10-13 inch (most uses 10 inch)

Basic knit fabric:-

 Single jersey
 Rib.
 Interlock. (rib &interlock double
jersey)

Q.Why face side & back side different appearance?

S/j :-
cylender-metal-groove(needle) =1set needle.
We need 1 set needle to run the m/c due to 1 set needle to face side loop &
back side plain.all needles are vertically placed.most common use 24 guage
then 28 guage for s/j.
D/j:-
cylinder-groove-1 set needle vertically placed
dial-groove-1 set needle horizontally placed
=2 set needle.
Produce fabric:-
D/j:-
 rib fabric
 interlock fabric
 2 x 2 rib,5 x 5 rib
 thermal,waffale,pointal rib
 lycra
 slub jersy
S/j:-
 s/j fabric
 p.k fabric
 lacoste
 fleece(loop back) fabric
 lycra fabric

2
  terry.
Fleece-brush-raising.identify(both side brush)
Polar(over than 1 decitex)micro fleece(less than 1 decitex to make very finer
yarn)

Tex -1000m yarn wf =1gm,tex=1

Decitex-10000m yarn wf=1gm,dtex=1
Denier-9000m yarn wf=1gm,denier=1

Rib fabric most common use 18 guage then=16guage

Interlock most common use 22 guage then=24 guage.
Picture :-

Rib:

Interlock:

S/j :

3
Q.How you can identify rib & interlock?
Ans:the difference between rib & interlock only its needle position.

Basic material used in knitting( yarn):-

12mm or less than ½’’ that is remove in combing process.
Polyester is called tetron the company of America dupant.so tetron is
commercial name of polyester.
Mélange yarn is blended yarn = cotton + viscos
85 + 15 =grey mélange , 98 + 2 = ecru mélange.
Pink , yellow , blue mélange & if more black so its anthra mélange(more than
50% black).
Slub= thick & thin place in a yarn. Its two types 1.reguler (repeat)
2.irregular(no repeat).cotton length:-egypt1-2.5’’ ,America 1.5-2’’
When two or more single yarn is twisted so it is ply.plied yarn-sewing
thread.single yarn-untwist yarn.