Conducting Baseline & Need Assesment Study Of Undertake

Sustainable Intervation Towards Improvement Of

Sambalpuri Handloom Weavers

INTRODUCTION:
Handlooms in India play a significant role in the Indian economy owing to their rural
employment potential next only to agriculture, and also for their contribution to exports from the
country. Since 1960 and up to 95, the share of handloom production in the total textile
production remained more or less constant at about 23%. However after 1995, it started
declining and is pegged at 13% during 2004 - 055. The tradition of handlooms is so strong
that the entire country is dotted with places famous for some or the other handloom
product. If specifically the centres of ‘ikat’ are to be considered then there are only three states
that can boast of this unique tradition – Gujarat, Orissa and Andhra Pradesh. In Gujarat it is
only the Patan area, which produces the ‘Patola’ sari, a wedding sari for the women of
Kathiawar region. In Andhra Pradesh the main areas producing Ikats are the Chirala area
and the Nalgonda district (famous for Pochampalli saris). It is only Orissa, which has the
tradition of ‘Ikat’ across almost the entire state, mainly centred in Bolangir – Sonepur –
Bargarh – Sambalpur districts in the Western parts, Cuttack district in the eastern part and
the Kalahandi – Sundergarh districts in the southern parts of the state. The ‘Ikats’ of Orissa stand
apart from the rest other ‘ikat’ traditions due to the unique design range that they possess,
derived from nature and religious themes. Thus while Ikats of Orissa have a wide range of
flowers, trellis patterns, animals, gods and goddesses and images from day – to day life as their
motifs, most other ikat patterns have either geometric or diffused abstract forms as their motifs.

Sambalpuri Bastralaya Handloom Co-operative Society Limited (SBHCSL) or Sambalpuri

Bastralaya or Bastralaya – a traditional knowledge intensive community enterprise (CE)
is one of the largest primary weavers’ co-operative societies (PWCS) in India. Operation
area spread in four districts of state Odisha, it has members from 90 affiliated weavers’
societies; has 5,952 highly skilled weavers; 42 sales outlets; and 5,345 looms in 43 weaving
branches. As a production-cum-sales society, it guarantees livelihood to large number of
weavers from socio-economically backward classes, and women. Handloom industry
provides maximum employment after agriculture in the state. “Ikat”/“Tie & Dye” (locally
called “Baandha”) is a complex weaving art in Sambalpuri handloom (named after the
place of origin ‘Sambalpur’). Yarns/threads are dyed in eco-friendly colors for required
pattern before mounting on loom, and when warp and weft threads meet during weaving,
the pattern emerges on cotton/silk fabric prominently.Sambalpuri saris are known for their
incorporation of traditional motifs like shankha (shell), chakra (wheel), phula (flower), all of
which have deep symbolism with the native Odia colour red black and white represent true Odia
Culture along with Lord Kaalia(Jagannatha)'s face colour.
Since time immemorial the handloom sector of West Odisha has secured a renowned space
in India and outside India also for its distinct quality and design of fabrics popularly known
as Sambalpuri. It has become a cultural heritage of Odisha. Mostly it is a traditional
occupation of Meher community (Bhulia, Kuli and Kusta) of West Odisha. The weavers in
these sectors belong to the vulnerable and weaker sections of the society. Most of the
weavers of Barpali cluster carry out traditional occupation for the maintenance of
household needs. In the same time they contribute to the state/nation’s textile
production units. There are 23.77 lakh handlooms in the country. The industry provides
employment opportunities to 43.32 lakh handloom weavers and subsidiary workers. This
comprises 38.47 lakh adult handloom weavers and subsidiary workers, of which 24.72 lakh
are engaged full-time and 13.75 lakh on part-time basis (Bankers Institute of Rural
Development, 2016). Most importantly the vulnerable and marginalized sections of society
in rural area like women, SCs, STs and OBCs are contributing their labour force to the
handloom sectors. The Bankers Institute of Rural Development (2016) indicates out of
38.47 lakh handloom weavers and subsidiary workers in the country 77.90% belong to
women. They contribute at pre and post loom labour. Significant masses of
weavers/artisans consisting of scheduled castes, schedules tribes and religious minorities,
who represent the economic lifeline of the most vulnerable sections of our society i.e. SCs
(10.13%), STs (18.12%) and OBC (45.18%), participate in the handloom sector. The
production share of handlooms to total textile industry is about 13%. In this context Odisha
occupy a prominent place. The handloom weaving of Odisha and particularly the
Sambalpuri fabrics of West Odisha is most popular in the nation and over sea country also due to
its tie and dye handloom fabrics with excellent colour combination and variety of designs.
Despite of all significance, fineness and popularity the age old handloom sector of West Odisha
is running through many up and down. State government has taken so much of initiatives for the
development of MSME (micro, small and medium enterprises).
However the MSME sectors in general and handloom sector in particular have been
suffering of basic difficulties such as availing of infrastructural facilities, credit linkages,
marketing facilities.

Majority of them are wage weavers working for more than 8 hours day accompanied by the
entire family. Majority weavers working under the control of master weavers. The findings of the
study have been considerably related to the techniques to improve the socio-economic conditions
of handloom weaver households.Handloom industry gives employment to lakhs of people it is
thus productive as employment
generator in the rural and urban areas it focuses on development. Handloom weaving is a
noteworthy industry that utilizes lakhs of individuals in the nation. It is important to expand
on such qualities while articulating the prospects of the business.