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Cosmetic Packaging Evolution History
Cosmetic Packaging Evolution History
Introduction-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------1
Origin------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------1
Prehistoric era--------------------------------------------------------------------------------1
Stone Age (30,000 BCE to 3,000 BCE)-------------------------------------------1
Paleolithic Era-----------------------------------------------------------------1
Mesolithic Era-----------------------------------------------------------------3
Neolithic Era------------------------------------------------------------------4
Bronze age and Ancient Egypt-------------------------------------------------------------7
Ancient Greece-----------------------------------------------------------------------------10
Ancient Rome-------------------------------------------------------------------------------12
Middle Ages---------------------------------------------------------------------------------13
Renaissance and Early to late modern period-------------------------------------------13
Glass and Metal-----------------------------------------------------------------------------16
19th century and industrial revolution----------------------------------------------------16
Modern day cosmetic packaging---------------------------------------------------------18
Product progression------------------------------------------------------------------------19
Eyes-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------19
Face products------------------------------------------------------------------------24
Lips-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------28
Conclusion----------------------------------------------------------------------------------32
References-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------33
The evolution of cosmetic packaging
Introduction
Origin:
The meaning behind the usage of makeup has evolved throughout history. Every
civilization used cosmetics in one form or another. The beginning of makeup goes
back to the earliest humans who were inspired by the colors of the nature that
included plants, flowers and insects. Many ancient civilizations used red ochre as a
form of pigmentation for the purposes of beautification or squishing berry juice
and putting it as a form of lip pigment using the hands as the tools.
Humans used their hands as the ideal model to create and use different natural
ingredients as a form of face and bodily adornment. As time progressed and
pottery came into being, a simple clay plate became the next ideal model as a
containing device. Which then over time took the form of earthenware, stoneware
and porcelain as a result of mechanical and technical advancement.
The history of packaging industry is as old as time. As societies progressed and
exchanged expertise through migration, packaging industry saw a huge shift and it
started to get more sophisticated due to innovation and increased the quality of life.
Prehistoric era
The stone age lasted for about 3.4 million years and is named after the tool that
was developed at the time i.e. stone.
Paleolithic Era:
The very first basic stone tools were developed in the paleolithic period (Old
stone age 30,000 BCE–10,000 BCE) to create durable products and stone art. The
art existing in the form of figurines depicting animal and humans from the
paleolithic period consists of small sculptures made of clay, bone, ivory and stone.
1
The paleolithic era had
many tools like biface which
was a hand axe chipped on
both sides used for cutting
or knife made out of stone
that was used as a weapon
or as a cutting and
sharpening tool. Tools
developed in the paleolithic
era paved the way for the
evolution of modern-day
tools and helped initiate the
foundation of packaging
industry.
As pottery is one of the world’s oldest
human invention archeological evidence
shows that it first emerged as a vessel
during paleolithic era in east Asia. It
was made of earthenware that was
created in high temperature of about
900 degree Celsius, glazes were not
used and most vessels had round
bottoms and no sharp angles and rims.
Ancient Jōmon pottery (10,500–8000 B.C.)
Earthenware developed during this era was mostly used as a storage container for
food and water.
Decorative adornment was done on pottery vessels and containers in japan in
around 14,000 BCE by pressing rope into the clay before firing it. Jōmon culture
(10,500-300 BC) is known for its earliest pottery designs. From there the pottery
expertise spread to different eras to Amur river basin (14,000 BCE), sub-Saharan
Africa (9500 BCE), Persia (8000 BCE), Middle East (7000 BCE), the Americas
and Indian sub-continent (5500 BCE).
2
Mesolithic Era:
The Mesolithic period (Middle stone age 10,000 BCE–8,000 BCE) used small
chipped stone tools called microliths along with retouched bladelets. Other tools
included backed blade, core, point, triangle, lunate and trapeze. The axe heads
were fixed into a wooden handle and used like axes today. The flint core was the
raw material from which other tools could be
made which helped developed vessels and
containers made of stone later on.
Scrapers were used for cleaning animal skins in
the process of making leather that were later on
made to be used as storage vessels in the form of
pouches. Burins were used for carving or
engraving wood and bone, like a chisel and
blades were used as knives.
Hollowed out wood in different shapes served as the earliest ideal model
during Mesolithic era as a packaging material along with leaves, nuts,
gourds, twigs and grass.
The pottery created during Mesolithic era had distinct features like a point Mesolit
or knob base and flared rims. The
earliest models for this pottery were
discovered around lake Baikal in Siberia. Most
of the tools developed during Mesolithic era
paved the way for the progression of tools in
Neolithic era.
Neolithic Era:
Mesolithic earthenware
3
The Neolithic Period (New Stone Age 8,000
BCE–3,000 BCE) is known for its progression of
behavioral and cultural characteristics along with
agricultural and architectural advancements and
production of pottery because of the use of more
sophisticated tools.
Neolithic era also introduced wood-carving, relief
sculpture, ivory carving and freestanding stone
sculptures.
Pottery came to Europe from Middle East during
the seventh millennium BCE. Influenced by
techniques from Syria and Iraq, the Greek region
of Thessalia was the first region of Europe known Neolithic era clay vessel (5,800-5,300 B.C.)
to have made pottery, around 6300 BCE.
The first kilns appeared around 6000 BCE in the Middle East (Yarim Tepe, Iraq) -
first pit-kilns, then stone-lined kilns, enabling much higher temperatures to be
reached, thus improving the reliability and durability of pots. Potter's wheel was
invented and developed in Mesopotamia and around the world between 6000 to
4000 BCE leading to an increased production of ceramic vessels of all types and
sizes.
In Middle East around Greater Mesopotamia,
Neolithic pottery production can be categorized
into four main periods: the Hassuna period
(7000-6500 BCE), the Halaf period (6500-5500
BCE), the Ubaid period (5500-4000 BCE), and
the Uruk period (4000-3100 BCE). The most
primitive types of vessel (c.7000 BCE) were
simple and unglazed hand-formed from slabs of
reddish-brown clay.
Bowl from hassuna period (5,500 B.C.)
4
BCE)eraperiods.
Ubaid The Third
vessel (4500–4000 Ur
Dynasty, better known as Ur III, witnessed the
B.C.)
continuation of unpainted ceramic vessels in variety of forms. Urns from this era
resembles today’s flower vases, bowls, and cups.
5
The earliest Chinese Neolithic (c.7500-5000)
pots were red-colored earthenware, hand-made
(by coiling), fired in bonfires. It was decorated
using simple designs using stamping and
impressing techniques.
Middle Neolithic (c.5000-4000 BCE) Chinese
pottery was made of fine clay or sand-tempered
vessels with geometric marking and appliqued
bands.
Earthenware jar f
Bronze age and Ancient Egypt: (2650–
The advent of copper metallurgy during the last era of Neolithic stone age
introduced the bronze age which spanned from 3,300 to 1,200 BCE. The use of
copper and its alloy bronze which is produced by combining copper and tin
became more common as a manufacturing material. In time, bronze became the
primary material for tools.
The bronze age also marks the beginning of the ancient Egyptian protodynastic era
(3150 BCE).
6
Ancient Egypt is known for its rich culture and architectural development till date.
Most of the surviving art, sculptures and artifacts from the protodynastic era
symbolizes that ancient Egyptians emphasized on aesthetics hence makeup was
invented as a form of adornment.
The earliest historical record of makeup comes from the 1st Dynasty of Egypt
(c.3100-2907 BC). For ancient Egyptians beauty was regarded as a sign of holiness
and every aesthetic practice had a spiritual aspect to it. Both men and women used
to wear makeup.
The concept of modern-day cosmetic palettes was first introduced in predynastic
era. The palettes were used as a container to grind cosmetic ingredients for facial
and body application. Most of them were made of siltstone which originated from
wadi hammamat. The very first palettes used Badarian and Naqada I were plain
looking and in rhomboidal and rectangular shape. Zoomorphic palettes became
more common in Naqada II period.
Some of the famous and notable palettes are:
The cosmetic palette in the form of a Nile
tortoise introduced by the naqada culture is
made of schist in the shape of trionyx soft-
shell turtle.
The Four Dogs Palette, displaying African wild dogs, giraffes, and other
quadrupeds.
The famous N
7
The battlefield palette from Naqada III era represents a battle scene. The circular
defined area was used for the mixing of cosmetic substances.
From the 1st dynasty Saqqara fragments of a salve chest with thirty compartments
for unguents and oil jars were found. Calcite jars were used to store perfumes and
unguents.
Unguent jars were buried with the dead as grave
goods and has major significance in the Egyptian
mumification process and funerary art. The jars were
first made of granite and basalt, later of alabaster and
had a pronounced lip. They were covered with a piece
of leather which was tied around the neck of the jar
underneath the lip. Other commonly used material as
storage containers were stone, ivory and faience.
Wooden boxes and chests were used to store the jars.
Ancient texts from old kingdom (c. 2686–2181 BC)
depicts that the kohl for eyes became more common
and followed by lip and cheek paints.
Unguent jar from 1504–1447 B.C
8
Earliest dynasties stored kohl in small flat-bottomed jars. Most of the cosmetic jars
were decorated with relief carving. Later on, it was stored in tubular containers.
Dry cosmetics like rouge was stored in containers made of wood, bone and ivory.
Kohl jar from 1981–1640 B.C. Kohl jar from 1635–1458 B.C.
9
Cosmetic spoon in the shape of swimming woman holding a dish (c.1390-1352
BC) is also a famous artifact made of Egyptian alabaster and steatite.
Ancient Greece:
The word cosmetics originally came from the Greek term “kosmetika”. Women in
ancient Greece (c. 700-480 BC) preferred more natural makeup made out of
natural ingredients. Although kohl was still used like it was used in ancient Egypt
for the purposes of beautification and protection.
Lekythoi which was a storage vessel in the form of a slim jug used to store fine oils
and can be considered a counterpart to Egyptian unguent jars as it was also used in
funerary art.
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Another common cosmetic storage vessel used by ancient Greeks was the circular
lidded decorated box known as pyxis also used as grave good. For storing daily
usage items squat alabastron was used for creams and unguents in Minoan,
Mycenean and classical Greece.
Ancient
Rome:
11
Late imperial glass jar 3rd-4th century A.D.
Middle Ages:
12
Post middle ages came the renaissance era marking the transition to 15th and 16th
century. Most of the beauty trends overlapped with medieval ages like porcelain
looking skin, stained cheeks and rouge on lips.
13
The current flexible packaging which are collapsible soft
metal tubes were first used in 1841 for artist paints.
14
Lithography machine
Both glass and metal have contributed to modern day cosmetic packaging. Before
the industrial revolution glass was manufactured by hand and with its arrival a new
manufacturing method was invented called “the cylinder process” which made
glass the most economical and efficient packaging material. Glass packaging is
still used to date and is effective because of its ability to guard the cosmetic
contents from oxidization. Silica, mixed with metal oxides and sodium carbonate
along with trace elements are the main ingredients used in glass. The three types of
commonly used glass are borosilicate, treated soda-lime and regular soda-lime.
Treated soda-lime glass is used for long term storage. Regular soda-lime is used
for general purpose packaging as its more chemically resistant.
For metal containers as time progressed, with the help of scientific breakthroughs
special coatings and lacquers were developed for metal containers to prevent
corrosion and chemical reactions. Tubes and cans are made of metals like tin and
aluminum. Metal containers are relatively unbreakable and impermeable to
moisture and good to store and protect oxygen-sensitive products. One example of
modern-day product of a metal container is lipstick cases. Metal is cost effective
because of high recyclability and durability.
15
19th century and industrial revolution:
Cellophane wrapping
A wide variety of plastics have been developed over the last 170 years. The most
commonly used form of plastic packaging in cosmetics industry are:
PET (Polyethylene Terephthalate Plastic) – Also abbreviated as PETE, this
material is lightweight and flexible, making it ideal for one-time usage. It’s
also the most commonly recycled plastic.
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PP (Polypropylene Plastic) – PP materials are BPA-free and very versatile.
PP has a very high melting point, making it safe for the microwave and
dishwasher. Also, it is easy to add dye to, making it favorable to
manufacturers.
PVC (Polyvinyl chloride) – commonly abbreviated PVC, is the world’s
third-most widely produced synthetic plastic polymer, after polyethylene and
polypropylene. PVC comes in two forms: rigid (sometimes abbreviated as
RPVC) and flexible.
PMMA (Polymethyl methacrylate) – also known as acrylic or acrylic glass
as well as by the trade names Plexiglas, Acrylite, Lucite, and Perspex, is a
transparent thermoplastic often used in sheet form as a lightweight or
shatter-resistant alternative to glass. It’s also very resistant to weathering and
UV light and is completely recyclable. PMMA is also very colorable.
Usually used and moisturizer cream jars.
ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) – This general purpose terpolymer is
flame retardant and impact resistant. ABS was first discovered during WWII
and became commercially available in the 1950’s. ABS materials can be
processed by standard thermoplastic processing methods. It’s used for small
cosmetic containers like mascara tubes and compact containers.
AS (Acrylonitrile Styrene)- This material is tough, rigid, and transparent. AS
is resistant to greases, stains, and stress cracking. AS is also easy to process
and is used for lipstick cases.
With the advent of plastic, the primary and secondary packaging came into
being. Primary packaging which is the actual cosmetic container is used for
storing the cosmetic product. Secondary packaging is the outer wrapping of
the cosmetic container. Throughout 19th century till date plastics and glass
containers are the most commonly used materials for cosmetic packaging.
Thick glass jars are used for storing eye shadows, lip glosses and high-end
facial products. Large glass jars and bottles and its plastic counterpart ABS
and AS are used to store airless cosmetic products like foundations and
makeup removers. Amber glass jars are used for bath and body products that
don’t have clear colors.
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The purpose of packaging is not only limited to protect the contents of
product but how it
creates the brand image
and revenue using
aesthetics through right
marketing as the
packaging is what the
customer initially sees
before buying.
Another important factor
of cosmetic packaging is
labeling. Labeling
includes information like
ingredients, instructions
for usage, expiration
dates, precautions,
manufacturer information.
Product progression
Eyes:
The earliest record of eye makeup is traced back to ancient Egyptians who
used “kohl” which was a combination of burnt almonds, oxidized copper,
different colored copper ores, lead and ochre. Black and green galena was
used as a form of eye pigment. Cosmetic palettes were used to crush and
grind pigments and kohl.
Kohl was usually stored in stone,
alabaster jars, wooden and ceramic
tubes. A wooden stick was used to
apply the kohl. Wooden cosmetic
spoons were also used for kohl
application.
18
Wooden gazelle kohl spoon
Like Egyptians ancient Greeks and romans also used kohl as a form of
adornment and used glass, bronze and ceramic containers to store it.
Byzantine era kohl tube 5th-6th century Bactrian bronze kohl container (700-100 CE)
19
Surma-dani
During middle ages and renaissance era eye products were not as common
and kohl took the form of “eyeliners” in 1920s.
Kohl formula as it evolved through the history was used in the form of eye
shadow and was applied using fingers hence creating the look we know
today as the famous “smokey eye”.
Maybelline mascara
was first introduced in
1915 by T. L. Williams.
It came in the form of
cake, wax or liquid with
a small brush for
application.
It was packed in a small paper made rectangular box which was later
upgraded to a metal box and collapsible tubes in 1950s.
20
In 1930 max factor introduced a
makeup kit for theater and film
students which had multiple
products including the earliest
prototype of liquid eyeliner called
“linin” in a round metal container
with wooden sticks for application.
21
Majority
Houbigant metal of brands
eyeshadow were
and blush using
palette metal
containers and tubes used as a
1950s
packaging material during 1950s and 60s.
With the advent of mascara wands in late 50s brands started to use metal
containers in tubular forms.
In
mid-
60’s to 70’s max factor and Maybelline
were selling eyeshadow palettes in the
form plastic packaging.
From 1980’s to late 1990’s brands were using a combination of metal and
plastic as cosmetic packaging for mascaras, liquid eyeliners, eye shadow
palettes and quads. From 2000 till date for eye products different types of
plastic packaging is used as primary packaging.
Maybelline e
22
Face products:
23
Ancient Greeks used cinnabar as
cheek tints and fucus to maintain pale
complexion. Jars made of squat
alabastron, hardstone and ceramic
were used to grind and store
powdered pigments.
24
In 1920s max factor introduced their
panchromatic face powder range in
circular tin casings.
25
Max factor also introduced pan
makeup in plastic containers in the 40s
and other brands like Woodbury
introduced sharp color rouges in
metallic boxes.
Most
powder
compacts and boxes
manufactured during the 50s were
made of metal or paperboard
packaging. Depending on the type of
powder a detachable sifter would be a part
of packaging.
27
powders are used. Rouge which took the form of blush is also stored in
plastic compact containers and tubes.
Lips:
The earliest lipstick was invented in bronze age by ancient Sumerians. They
used crushed gemstones on lips were as a form of adornment. Ancient
Egyptians created lipsticks from multiple products like extracting red dye
from seaweed and mixing it with iodine and bromine mannite and crushing
bugs and ants to extract a crimson stain. Lip products were applied using
fingers and open cosmetic spoons were used as containers.
Tang dynasty (618-907 CE) created the first lipsticks from beeswax and
stored it in ceramic cosmetic boxes.
Lipstick as a cosmetic product became popular in 16th century. Queen
Elizabeth I created her own formula from beeswax and red stains from
plants.
In 1884 Guerlain invented the first commercial lipstick. It was created from
beeswax, castor oil and deer tallow and was packaged in silk paper.
28
In 1928 max factor introduced water proof lip
pomade which was later called lip gloss in
small round containers with metal lids.
Most of the brands were using metal lipstick
casings along with plastic and paper tubes
throughout 1930s and 40s.
29
From 1990s and onwards brands like Covergirl and Revlon were using a
combination of internal metal casing with a plastic cover. From 2000 further
types of lip glosses were introduced wand applicators and small plastic
squeezable tubes became more common.
30
Modern day lipsticks are packaged in variety of high-quality plastic and
metal casings.
Conclusion
Today cosmetic industry is worth more than 200+ billion USD. Due to high
levels of competitiveness brands are extremely conscious of how their
product is packaged, marketed and create the brand awareness for their
respective target market. The cosmetic packaging’s main purpose is to
protect the product from damage through storage and shipping process and
until after it reaches the customer. The ideal durability of good packaging or
a container is that it should outlive the product. The packaging industry has
significantly grown as brands face hard competition and rivalry most brands
31
have their own departments and divisions that specialize in package design
and labeling to help counter the competition as and when new trends
emerge. Brands focus more on visual marketing through advertising on
multiple platforms to attract potential target market. As competition is
changing along with customer needs brands aim to create unique easy-to-use
product designs to maintain a loyal customer base.
References
- Ancient Pottery (from 18,000 BCE). (n.d.). Retrieved October 2, 2020, from
http://www.visual-arts-cork.com/pottery.htm
32
- Bellis, M. (n.d.). The Colorful History of Lipstick. Retrieved October 4,
2020, from https://www.thoughtco.com/history-of-lipstick-1992082
33
- Hernandez, G. (2016, May 05). A Brief History of Eye Makeup. Retrieved
October 4, 2020, from https://glamourdaze.com/2013/02/a-brief-history-of-
eye-makeup-by-gabriela-hernandez.html
- The History of Face Powder. (2010, February 7). Retrieved October 6, 2020,
from http://www.luxemag.org/face/history-face-powder.html
34
- Neolithic Art in China (7500-2000 BCE). (n.d.). Retrieved October 4, 2020,
from http://www.visual-arts-cork.com/east-asian-art/chinese-neolithic.html
35