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PRINTING INFORMATION:
** Please consider saving paper and ink, by printing only the pattern pieces. Print with ADOBE READER. Make sure
that the “scaling” is set to “none” or “actual size” in the ADOBE print properties. A 1”x1” test square is shown beside
pattern piece B for you to use as a guide, it should not be a hair smaller. Print the pattern and measure the square to check
printing accuracy. Tape tiled pattern pieces together as noted on individual pieces, overlapping grey areas and taping
together.

Finished Size is approximately: Length: 8” (20 cm) across bottom, Height: 4” (10 cm), Depth: 1” (25 cm)

FABRIC & INTERFACING: (yardages are approximate)

1 Fat Quarter (18” x 22” or 46 x 59 cm) Exterior fabric (quilting cotton) 1 Small Turn Lock:
1 Fat Quarter (18” x 22” or 46 x 59 cm) Lining fabric (quilting cotton)
! yd/0.5 m Pocket fabric (quilting cotton)
2 yd/2 m 20” wide Fusible Woven Light-Medium weight interfacing
(Such as Pellon #SF101 Shapeflex or heavier)
6” x 9” (16 cm x 23 cm) Scrap of Pellon Peltex 71F Ultra Firm Stabilizer
or similar, fusible one side is preferred.

TOOLS & NOTIONS:

• 8” (or longer) dress zipper with nylon teeth (1” or 25 mm wide.)
• 1 Small Turn Lock (1 3/8” x 3/4”) or 1 Heavy duty snap.
• Water-soluble Erasable Marking Pen, or Chalk Pencil
• Rotary Cutting Tool, Mat, and Large Ruler
• Fraystop or Fraycheck, fray stopping liquid (optional)
• Super strong Fabric/craft glue meant for fabrics and metals for Turn Lock
• DST - Double sided wash-away fabric tape such as Wondertape by Dritz
(Or fabric glue to substitute)
• Thread to match all fabrics
• Jeans sewing machine needle, used to sew through tightly woven fabrics.

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NOTES:
• Read pattern instructions completely before starting.
• Seam allowances are "” (6 mm) unless otherwise specified.
• Always backstitch at the beginning and end of seams.
• RS = right side of fabric WS = wrong side of fabric

STEP 1 - Cutting:
Notes: Some pattern pieces are cut using your rotary cutter, mat
and ruler. *All cutting measurements are width x height.
Use the check boxes “☐” to keep track of the pieces you have cut.

From Exterior Fabric:

☐ (1) each of pattern pieces A, B & D

From Lining Fabric:

☐ (1) each of pattern pieces A & D

From Pocket Fabric:

For the Zipper Pocket:
☐ (2) rectangles 8” x 4” (20.25 cm x 10 cm) for pocket lining
☐ (2) rectangles 8” x 7.5” (20.25 cm x 19 cm) for outer pocket
☐ (4) rectangles 1 1/2” x 1” (38 mm x 2.5 cm) for zipper ends
For the Card Slot Pockets:
☐ (2) rectangles 8” x 15 1/2” (20.25 cm x 39.4 cm for card slot pockets
☐ (1) rectangle 8 x 8.5” (20.25 cm x 21.6 cm) for the card slot back

From the Peltex Stabilizer:

☐ (1) pattern piece C for the front flap border (trace with a pen)
☐ (1) square 1.5” x 1.5” (4 cm x 4 cm) for Twist lock or Snap Fastener

From the Woven Interfacing:

☐ (2) each of pattern pieces A & D
☐ (2) rectangles 8” x 7.5” (20.25 cm x 19 cm) for zipper pocket
☐ (2) rectangles 8” x 15 1/2” (20.25 cm x 39.4 cm) for card slot pockets

STEP 2 – Attach The Interfacing:

For the Exterior & Lining:
1. Trim the width of a seam allowance (1/4” or 6 mm) from around
the edges of A & D interfacings. Fuse onto back of fabric pieces
using manufacturer’s directions.
2. Place the small 1.5” (4 cm) Peltex square, centered, over
placement markings on the WS of exterior piece D and adhere
using manufacturer’s directions.
For the Pocket Pieces:
Fuse interfacing onto WS of rectangles of same size fabric pieces.

STEP 3 – Make The Exterior

Make The Front Flap:

1. Place exterior and lining Pattern Piece A RS together and pin. (top diagram above right)
2. Using a !” (6 mm) seam allowance, sew around 3 sides only, leaving the long straight edge open for turning. Your
sewing should be as accurate as possible so that your border piece will match. Tip: Draw on seam lines as a sewing
guide if necessary. Cut notches in the seam allowance around curves, turn RS out, and press well.

Make The Border Piece:

1. Fuse Peltex Piece C to WS of exterior fabric border Piece B. Make sure it is centered. (Tip: If you do not have a fusible
Peltex, you can use double-sided tape (DST) or fabric glue to attach.) (center diagram above right)
2. Run a strip of DST around outside edges of Peltex. (bottom diagram above right)

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3. Being very careful not to clip too close to Peltex, clip and notch
corners of fabric border. Don’t clip closer than 1/8” to Peltex edges
or these will show. Note: Clips and notches should be small.
4. Fold fabric edges over Peltex and stick to DST. Do not fold up
fabric over ends Hint: The Peltex is cut !” shorter than the flap
so it does not get caught in the seam allowance when attaching
the flap to bag exterior.

5. Place fabric border over flap piece matching up edges. (If the
edges don’t match nicely, you may have to go back to and adjust
stitching.) If it all looks good, pin, clip or use DST to stick border
onto the flap.
6. Using a long topstitch, and staying about 1/8” (3 mm) from edge,
top stitch border onto flap.

Attach the Turn Lock Opening or Snap Front:

1. Using a ruler, find and mark the center of the border strip (or refer to the marked area
on pattern piece).
2. If installing a heavy-duty snap, use the manufacturer’s directions to attach the front/top
half of the snap over this marking. If you are inserting a Turn Lock continue on.
3. Trace holes from the backing plate onto the border strip on the front flap.
4. Draw 1 oval around all 3 holes, making it only very slightly larger.
5. Cut oval out with scissors, by first making a large slit in the center of the marked oval
with a seam ripper for your scissors to enter. Cut the oval out in large “pie” sections
going through all layers.
6. Place the front plate in hole to see if it is large enough. It should be snug. Trim out
more if necessary. Hint: There should be no fabric or threads in the screw area.
7. Apply small amount of glue to front and back plates, place over the hole. Check to
make sure they are straight. Place screws in back plate. (Tip: It may be necessary to
use a tiny drop of glue in the screw holes to keep them secure. If using a thread
locking liquid like “Loctite”, put it on the screw, not on the fabric.)

Attach the Back of Snap, or Turn Lock:

1. Find the center of the long side of exterior wallet (Piece D) by folding it in half.
2. Measure 2.5” (6.5 cm) down from side of exterior wallet (piece D) at exact center and
mark a dot. This should be centered over the Peltex square you fused earlier.
3. If using a heavy-duty snap, attach the snap back using manufacturer’s directions, or
follow the next few steps to add the turn lock. Using the prongs on the back of the
turning part of the lock as a guide, draw two lines where your prong holes will be cut.
4. Using seam ripper or embroidery scissors, cut the prong holes for the twist lock. Do not
make them too big, smaller is better. Use FrayCheck on holes if desired.
5. Place the lock in from the exterior, place washer with slots over prongs and using a
metal tool such as a screwdriver, flatten out prongs making them as tight as possible.

6. Fuse or glue a piece of felt or fabric over the metal prongs and washer to prevent them from wearing through your wallet
fabric.
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Attach the Flap:
1. With RS of exterior wallet (Piece D) up, place the wallet flap lining side up, centered exactly on the side of D Piece that
does NOT have the snap back or twist lock. Pin in place. Place Lining Piece D WS up over exterior, and pin in place.
2. Using a !” (6 mm) seam allowance, sew all the way around exterior and lining piece D’s sewing the flap in as you go.
Leave a 4” opening on the side with lock for turning. Turn right side out, and press.
3. Using a long topstitch and staying 1/8” (3 mm) away from outside edge, topstitch all the way around oval, sewing the
opening used for turning closed as you go.

STEP 4 – Make The Pocket Pieces:

Make the Card Slot Pockets:

1. Working on the Wrong Side of (1) 8” x
15 1/2” (20.25 cm x 39.4 cm) - Card Slot Pocket,
mark the folding lines for the credit card slots.
Start from the left and mark lines the following
widths apart from the top edge:
2 1/2’’ (6.3 cm), 1 3/4’’ (4.5 cm), 2 1/4’’ (5.7 cm),
1 3/4’’ (4.5 cm), 2 1/4’’ (5.7 cm), & 1 3/4’’ (4.5 cm).
That is 6 lines in total, leaving an extra, longer
area, at the bottom. (See right, pen lines in blue.)
2. Flip the rectangle over so that it is now Right
Side up and start folding on first line from the
left. Press with your iron as you go, alternating
the direction of your folds first to the left, and
then to the right like you are fan folding. If you need
to watch a video demonstrating this folding technique,
you can go to this link on Youtube, and I will show
you how it’s done: https://youtu.be/RbRwDeATfc4
3. Repeat Steps 1 & 2 to mark and fold the card slots on the
other Card Slot Pocket piece.
4. Using a 1/8’’ (3 mm) seam allowance, topstitch across the
three folds that make the top edges of the card slot
pockets. (see diagram right)
5. Refold on the pressing lines and pin the sides edges down
so they won’t slide and become uneven when basting.
6. Baste the sides using a 1/8” seam allowance.

7. Using a large gridded ruler, trim the bottom edges of the 2 card slot sections so that each one’s final measurement is
8” wide x 4 1/2” high (20.25 cm x 7.6 cm).
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8. Place the two slot pocket pieces right side together. Using a !” (6 mm)
seam, sew them together across the bottom edge. (see diagram below)
Make sure you place them so that when they open up, the slot openings
will be facing the outside edges not the center.
9. Press seam allowance open. You should now have a piece that is 8” wide
by 8 "” high. HINT: If you are having trouble making sure you are sewing
the correct side, refer to the photo
on the far right to double check that
you are doing it correctly!!
10. Draw a line down the center of the
card slot piece (4” is center). Stitch
down this line to create 6 card slots
on each side. (see far right)
11. Place the card slot unit RS together
with the 8 x 8.5” rectangle for the card
slot back. Pin across top and bottom
edges.
12. Using a 1/4” (6mm) seam allowance,
sew across top and bottom edges
only. Turn right sides out, press
seams.
13. Now, using a 1/8” (3 mm) seam, top
stitch around all four edges. (see far
right) NOTE: The left and right edges
will have raw edges, and we re okay
with this! Set your slot pockets aside
for now.

Prepare the Zipper for the Zipper Pocket:

1. Trim the metal stops from the ends of the zipper. Measure and trim the
zipper so that it measures exactly 6” (15.24 cm) long.
2. Staying just short of 1/4” (5 mm) from the open end, sew back and forth
across the zipper tails so that it stays closed. (Tip: Use a longer stitch
length (4.0) when sewing over a nylon zipper with large teeth.)
3. Butt the short ends of (2) of the 1 1/2” x 1” Zipper Ends with 1 end of
the zipper. The zipper should be sandwiched between the 2 fabric pieces,
and the fabric pieces should be RS together. Pin or clip in place. Using
a zipper foot, sew together using a 1/4” (6mm) seam allowance.
4. Fold back the fabric ends so that they are WS together, finger press or
iron the seam. Topstitch along the seam to anchor the fabric pieces
down.
5. Repeat steps 3 & 4 to sew the other 2 ends on the other end of the
zipper.

Make The Zipper Pocket:

1. Place (1) rectangle 8” x 4” (20.25 cm x 10 cm) for pocket lining on your

work surface RS up. Center the zipper over this, right side up, aligning
top edges. (Hint: The zipper pull will be on the left.) Place (1) rectangle
8” x 7.5” (20.25 cm x 19 cm) for outer pocket over these, WS up,
aligning top edges. Pin or use double-sided tape across the top 3 edges
of lining, zipper, and outer pocket.
TIP: I love to use WashAway Double-sided Tape when I am sewing any
zippers. Simply attach zipper to fabric with a strip of this !” (6 mm) tape
and your layers will never stretch or slide and you don’t have to worry
about using pins at all!
2. Using your zipper foot and a 1/4” seam allowance, sew them together
across the top edge.

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3. Pull the outer and lining pieces back, away from the zipper so that the wrong sides are together. First finger press the
seam along the zipper, and then press down with a hot iron.
4. Topstitch along zipper using a 1/8” (3 mm) seam allowance, sewing them both together, with the zipper edge in between.
5. Now, using the same method to add the other pocket pieces to the other edge of the zipper, place the 2nd pocket lining
on your work surface RS up.
Center the unit you just stitched
over this with the zipper RS up.
(TIP: The zipper pull will now
be on the right.) Place the 2nd
outer pocket over these WS up,
aligning top edges of the 2nd
lining piece, zipper edge, and
2nd outer piece. Pin (or tape)
together and sew together in
the exact same manner as
you did with the previous unit.
6. Once again, pull back the two
pieces you just attached, so
that they are wrong side
together. Finger press, and
press with hot iron, and then
topstitch along the zipper.
7. OPEN the ZIPPER!!
8. Pull the 2 lining pieces together so that they are right side together, and pull
the 2 exterior pieces together so that they are right sides together.
9. Pin the shorter lining edges together, and the longer exterior edges together on
three sides, leaving the lining open at the top edge. Hint: Your zipper should
be folded back on itself and sitting on the lining side, RS Together.
10. Using a !” (6 mm) seam, sew only around
these 3 sides. (see diagram far right)
11. Use the opening in the end of the lining to
turn RS out. Push the lining inside. Your
lining won’t be stitched across the bottom
and it will be much shorter. Don’t worry,
because this will be taken care of! Press
seams flat. Topstitch across bottom edge,
using a 1/8” (3 mm) seam allowance.

STEP 5 – Attach The Pocket Pieces to The

Clutch Wallet Exterior:

Attach The Card Slot Pocket:

1. With the lining side of the main wallet facing up, center the slot pocket
below the flap. Make sure the slot pocket section is straight and centered
perfectly on wallet. Pin in place.

2. Take one of the rounded side

flaps, and fold it towards center,
folding it exactly on the edge of
the slot pockets. It’s important
that you fold right at the edge
of the slot pockets!!
Pin or clip in place.
3. Do the same for the other side
folding the rounded edge in
over the edge of the slot pocket.
Check to make sure everything
is straight and square!

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4. Using a !” (6 mm) seam, and a long stitch, sew down the folded edge. The raw
edges of the slot pocket should be completely enclosed in this seam and not
visible from the inside. Remember to secure the seam by back stitching or using
your machine tie off feature.

Attach The Zipper Pocket:

1. Working now with the zipper pocket, center the pocket over slot pockets and
wallet. Use a few pins to hold in place. Tip: The zipper pull should be at the top
left, and you should measure to make sure it’s completely centered.
2. Measure from the top and bottom edges of wallet piece to find center and with
erasable marking pen, or chalk pencil, draw a line across
zipper pocket. (see diagram right)
3. With ruler, now measure "” (12 mm) on either
side of this line and mark.
Note: The center line will not be used.
(see diagram below)

4. Using a long stitch length and sewing through all layers

(main wallet, slots pocket, and zipper pocket), sew a box
around outer lines you have just marked and across ends.
When making the short ends of your rectangle, stay very
close (about 1/8” or 3 mm) from edges of pocket piece.
HINT: Use bobbin thread that matches your exterior fabric.
Back stitch at start and stops and make this as neat as
possible! (see diagram right)

Attach The Side Flaps:

1. Measure 3.5” (9 cm) from bottom corners of one side flap
to a point that intersects on the top edge of this. Mark a
tick here. With your ruler, draw a line from this tick mark
to the corner of the box you have just stitched in the
previous step. Do the same for the other side of the flap,
creating two lines you will align your pockets to.
Repeat for other side flap.

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2. Hold up the zipper pocket piece, & line up it’s edges to the drawn line on the flap that is across from it. Pin or clip all the
way down the edge, making sure pocket is tight to the inside fold. Using a !” (6 mm) seam, sew down from top edge
about 2” (5 cm) to secure pocket flap. You will have to fold back the main pocket piece so it is out of the way. Sewing
this is easiest if you start "” – 3/4” from the end, & then back stitch to edge, backing over zipper teeth, and then forward
again two inches. Make sure to back stitch starts and stops. NOTE: You will not be able to sew all the way to the bottom,
only about 2”.

3. Repeat for the other side of your zipper pocket and then
for the other two folds that are made over the bottom
of the zipper pocket, creating a divider. It’s a bit of
a handful to fold the rest of the wallet out of the
way when you are sewing, but once you do
one, you will have the hang of it!

I hope you love this wallet as much as I do!!

_______________________________________

Thank you for purchasing an Emmaline Pattern

If you have any questions, please email Janelle at
janelle@emmalinebags.com
www.emmalinebags.com

Emmaline Bags & Patterns

Copyright 2013 All Rights Reserved

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