Condensed Milk
SD Kalyankar and MA Deshmukh, Government College of Dairy Technology, Udgir, India
CD Khedkar, SS Deosarkar, and AR Sarode, College of Dairy Technology, Pusad, India
ã 2016 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.
Introduction
Since ancient times, people have been aware that milk could
only be kept fresh for a short while and that it was only
available in the immediate vicinity of a cow. In the thirteenth
century, Marco Polo reported that the Tatars were able to
condense milk. He stated that 10 pounds (4.5 kg) of milk
paste was carried by each man, who would subsequently mix
the product with water. However, this report probably refers to
the soft Tatar curd katyk, which can be made into a drink
(ayran) by diluting it, and therefore it refers to a fermented,
not fresh, milk concentrate. Nicolas Appert condensed milk in
France in 1820, and Gail Borden Jr. did the same in the United
States in 1853, in reaction to the difficulty of storing fresh milk
for more than a few hours. While returning from a trip to
England in 1851, Borden was devastated by the death of several
of his children, apparently from poor quality milk obtained
from shipboard cows. Borden was inspired by the vacuum pan
he had seen being used by Shakers to condense fruit juice, and
he was at last able to reduce milk without scorching or curdling
it. Even then, his first two factories failed, and only the third,
built in New York with his new partner, Jeremiah Milbank,
produced a usable milk derivative that was long-lasting and
needed no refrigeration.
The first person to preserve milk in a concentrated form was
Nicolas Appert, who, in the early nineteenth century, concen-
trated milk by boiling it in a water bath over a fire, then pour-
ing it into glass bottles after cooling, and sterilizing the final
product by heating the bottles for 2 h in a boiling water bath.
Two inventions made in the second half of the nineteenth
century resulted, essentially, in the process that is still used
today. Gail Borden (1856) patented the process to evaporate
milk, which uses low pressure to make sweetened condensed
milk. In 1884, John B. Meyenberg patented a process for ster-
ilizing concentrated milk in tinned cans, which were rotated
under pressurized steam, allowing for a relatively short sterili-
zation time. A brief account of the historical developments of
condensed milk manufacturing is conveyed in Table 1.
Condensed Milk
Condensed dairy products are value-added milk products with
extended shelf life. Fresh milk is clarified and standardized to a
suitable level of fat, and it is then heat treated at 85–90  C for
several seconds. This heating process acts as a hurdle, which
destroys the majority of microorganisms. It also decreases fat
separation and inhibits oxidation. The water content of the
milk is reduced due to evaporation. Condensed milk products
have several advantages over fresh milk, such as they require
less storage space, they retain high quality, they preserve milk’s
Encyclopedia of Food and Health http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/B978-0-12-384947-2.00192-6
valuable surplus nutrients, and they reduce transportation
costs. These products can be used under adverse conditions
such as wars, epidemics, or earthquakes or other natural disas-
ters when fresh milk is unavailable. They are also suitable for
specialty food products designed for people such as sportsmen,
convalescents, or older individuals.
Evaporated milk (EM) is sterilized unsweetened con-
densed milk, and this product is available commercially. It
is prepared from fresh milk from which a sizable (almost
half) amount of water is evaporated. Then the product is
homogenized and canned, and the cans are subjected to the
thermal process of sterilization (Figure 1). In the event of
limited availability of fresh milk, milk powder is used in part
or all of the solids-not-fat (SNF). Similarly, the fat portion
can be obtained from anhydrous milk fat (AMF). If the
product is prepared using only milk powder and AMF, it is
called recombined evaporated milk (REM). In addition to milk,
skim milk, and cream, sweet cream buttermilk is also fre-
quently used as a source of some of the milk solids. Because
sweet cream buttermilk contains a large portion of the fat
globule membrane lipids in milk, it improves the heat stabil-
ity and the flavor of products, particularly REM. The proper-
ties of REM resemble those of EM.
There is no provision under the Codex Alimentarius stan-
dards to distinguish a product made from milk powders and
AMF from that made from fresh milk. But legislation in some
nations has set limits on the use of powders (e.g., EU legisla-
tion requires that no more than 25% of the milk solids in
regular unsweetened condensed milk are derived from milk
powder). There is an emerging trend in some countries to
prepare EM using vegetable fats (most frequently, palm oil)
instead of milk fats; this trend could be due to an attempt to
reduce costs or simply a local preference to not use milk fats.
The product thus prepared is called ‘filled’ EM. Oils high in
polyunsaturated fatty acids, such as soybean or sunflower oil,
are used in food products to lower blood cholesterol. The
oxidation stability of the fats used in REM is of paramount
importance.
To improve milk’s heat stability during thermal processing,
sodium orthophosphate is added. In addition, calcium carbon-
ate, soy lecithin, or calcium chloride is added to help improve
milk’s heat stability. Polyphosphates are also added to ultra-
high-temperature (UHT)-sterilized evaporated milk to control
defects such as age gelation of the product. The Codex sets a
maximum limit for an addition of 0.2% on an individual basis,
or 0.3% if a combination is used.
When the liquid product is mixed with a proportionate
amount of water, EM becomes the rough equivalent of fresh
milk. However, it requires half the space of its nutritional
equivalent (fresh milk), which makes EM attractive for trans-
portation purposes as it can have a shelf life of months or even
years, depending on the fat and sugar content. EM is a safe and
291
292 Condensed Milk

Table 1 Historical developments in condensed milk manufacture

Year Developments in condensed milk manufacturing

1357 Marco Polo (Mongolia) described the method for preparing a pasty milk concentrate, which was mixed with water
1809 Nicolas Appert (France) described a method for preserving milk by condensing it
1856 Gail Borden Jr. commercially developed a method of condensing milk; he is known as ‘the Father of the process of milk condensing’
1858 Borden’s milk, sold under the Eagle Brand, gained popularity for its purity, durability, and affordability
1864 Borden’s New York Condensed Milk Co. constructed the New York Milk Condensery, the largest and most advanced condensery, in Brewster,
New York
1883 The vacuum pan was markedly improved due to advancements in scientific knowledge in the field of sterilization
1884 John B. Meyenbarg (Switzerland) experimented to create the process to sterilize condensed milk using steam under pressure. He conceived the
idea of making condensed milk without the addition of sugar or other preservatives and without storing it under refrigeration
1906 The Federal Food & Drug Act of 1906 changed the name ‘evaporated cream’ to ‘evaporated milk’
1911 Nestlé constructed the world’s largest condensed milk plant in Dennington, Victoria, Australia
1914 Professor O. F. Hunziker, Head of the Department of Dairy at Purdue University published a book titled Condensed Milk and Milk Powder.
Professor Hunziker and others with the American Dairy Science Association standardized and improved condensery operations in the United
States and other countries
1958 Plate-type evaporators were developed
1961 Anand Milk Producer’s Union Ltd. (AMUL), in India, started the first ever commercial production of sweetened condensed milk in that country

Milk lactose, milk permeate, or milk retentate. However, additions

that change the ratio of casein-to-whey protein are not allowed,
Receiving and selection with the local legislations in some countries still forbidding
standardization of the protein.
Preliminary treatment
(Clarification, Cream separation/Standardization)
Method of Evaporated Milk Preparation
Pre-heating
(115–128 °C, 1–6 min) The method to manufacture sterilized and UHT-sterilized EM
is shown in Figure 1. The major processing steps are discussed
Vacuum evaporation in the following sections.
(45–70 °C)
Preheating
Homogenization
(P1=15–20 MPa; P2=5-10 MPa) Fresh milk is heat treated before it is concentrated. This treat-
ment is mainly to increase the concentrated milk’s heat
Packaging stability. The homogenized full-cream EM cannot be sterilized
if the milk is not subjected to preheating. Generally, milk is
Sterilization preheated at 110–130  C for about 1–3 min in a continuous
(100–120 °C, 15–20 min or 140 °C, 3 s) flow to yield EM with the highest heat stability. Preheating also
acts as an important hurdle for microbial growth as it inacti-
Storage
(20 °C)
vates microbial spores. For REM, preheating is carried out by
the powder manufacturer, before concentration and drying.
Figure 1 Flow diagram for the preparation of condensed milk. This allows the powder to be reconstituted at the predeter-
mined concentration for REM.

reliable substitute for perishable fresh milk, and it was very
popular before the invention of refrigeration. It can be easily
shipped to locations devoid of resources for safely producing
or storaging milk. Today, households across the world use it
most often to prepare desserts and in baked goods due to its
characteristic flavor.
The Codex Alimentarius standards, which are the most
common in international trade, prescribe a minimum of
7.5% milk fat and 25% total milk solids (TMS) in EM. Simi-
larly, legislation in various nations has set limits for the com-
position of EM. According to the traditional British standard,
EM requires a minimum of 9% milk fat and a minimum of
31% TMS, while the U.S. standard prescribes a minimum of
7.9% milk fat and 25.9% TMS. Thus, the concentration of EM
ranges from 2.0 to 2.5. The Codex allows the protein content in
the SNF to be adjusted, with a minimum of 34%, by adding
Concentration of milk
Modern multistage falling film evaporators with energy
efficient designs are invariably used for milk concentration.
Overconcentration should be avoided to prevent the risk of
lowering the milk’s heat stability. Similarly, overconcentration
also requires higher energy use and lowers the production
capacity. Based on the continuous measurement of the refrac-
tive index or density of the concentrate, the total solids (TS)
content is adjusted at the point where the product leaves the
evaporator. The final standardization of fat and TS is usually
carried out between the concentrating and sterilizing processes.
The milk, which is concentrated by reverse osmosis (RO), can
also be used to prepare unsweetened condensed milk. EM
produced by RO has virtually the same composition and prop-
erties as that produced by evaporation, but the industrial
application of RO for this purpose appears to be very limited.

Homogenization
The milk is homogenized as this process prevents coalescence
of fat globules and reduces the rate of creaming while the
product is stored. The homogenization pressures up to about
5 MPa generally have little effect on or slightly increase heat
stability, but higher pressures result in a large decrease in heat
stability. The concentrated milk is homogenized immediately
after it leaves the evaporator. A higher homogenization tem-
perature results in a smaller fat globule size at the same pres-
sure with better heat stability.
Heat stability test
During preparation of EM, it is obvious that the heat stability
of the product varies from batch to batch. Stabilizers are added
to regulate the heat stability. The amount of stabilizer needed
also varies to a great extent. The quantity of stabilizers to be
added is determined by adding different amounts of the stabi-
lizers to a series of cans containing the product. The cans are
subsequently sterilized, and the contents are checked for heat
stability. The amount of stabilizer that results in the optimum
properties is added to the total batch.
Cooling and cold storage
After homogenization, EM is cooled and stored, and then a
predetermined quantity of stabilizer (dissolved in water) is
added; this quantity is determined by the results of the stability
test. At this stage, prolonged storage should be avoided to
prevent microbial growth. Final standardization of fat and TS
can be carried out at this stage, taking the amount of water that
is added with the stabilizer into account. The cold storage of
unsterilized EM for more than 24 h considerably increases the
risk of the sterilized product’s age gelation.
EM is expected to be stored for longer period, which
requires various conditions so that the product’s quality does
not deteriorate during storage. The storage temperature is one
major factor determining the shelf life of the product.
Condensed milk and EM are stored at about 10–15  C. Storage
at low temperatures such as 0  C or below may lead to sugar
separation in the condensed milk, leading to sandiness; this
sugar separation is caused by the formation of very large lactose
crystals. A very low storage temperature also increases the
viscosity of the product, which may be beneficial up to a
certain point, but it also affects the product’s body and texture
characteristics. It has been shown that commercial EM remains
acceptable even after 2 years when stored below 15  C, but it
deteriorates rapidly when stored at 21  C or above. The humid-
ity of the storage space should also be kept low (below 50%) to
check the spoilage of cans and labels. Inversion of the cans
during storage minimizes fat separation in EM.
Packaging
One of the characteristic features of EM is its long shelf life at
ambient temperatures; this feature places high demands on the
packaging materials. The packaging materials should meet the
criteria of mechanical resistance and permeability to water,
light, gasses, and hydrophobic components. Those parts that
are in direct contact with the product must be made of food-
grade materials. The can is the most widely used container for
EM, with a standard content of 170 or 411 g (6 or 14.5 oz,
Condensed Milk 293
respectively). Mechanically sealed cans are widely used for the
packaging of concentrated milk products. Modern tinned plate
is coated with a layer of a polymer to prevent the dissolution of
the tin and iron into the product. In some Western European
countries, glass bottles with twist-off caps are used to package
EM used as a coffee creamer. Aluminum foil-lined milk cartons
and single-portion cups made of aluminum or polystyrene are
also widely used. The EM packaged in translucent (white)
polystyrene single-portion cups usually develops an oxidized
flavor due to the permeability of this material to both oxygen
and light.
Sterilization
Sterilization not only kills all microorganisms but also inacti-
vates all microbial spores that may germinate during the stor-
age of EM. The native milk enzymes are inactivated during
preheating. While selecting the milk to prepare as concentrated
milks, its excellent microbiological quality should be noted.
The enzymes produced by microorganisms (especially psy-
chrotrophs) should be absent because they are thermostable,
and even sterilization is insufficient to inactivate them. Heating
is carried out in continuous sterilizers. Several machines have
been designed to fill cans with concentrated milk. In a com-
monly used system, known as ‘vent hole type,’ concentrated
milk flows through a small aperture (3 mm or 1/8 in.
diameter) into cans. After filling, the cans are sealed carefully
because the seal has to withstand the heat of the sterilization
process. It is also essential that the cans be filled as quickly as
possible to avoid contaminating the milk. The opening in the
cans is usually soldered by a mechanical finger. The filled and
sealed cans are then tested for leaks by plunging them into a
hot water tank. If any of the cans rise or give off air bubbles,
they are discarded as unfit for sterilization. Modern sealing
processes are carried out so rapidly that a large number of
cans may be sealed in 1 min. In this process, open or sanitary-
type cans are used. The concentrated milk fills the open can,
one end of which is already seamed, and, after filling, the other
end of the can is seamed by an automatic seaming machine.
Cans are sterilized in a horizontal rotating system with rotary
air locks, while the bottles are sterilized in hydrostatic steril-
izers. These are highly energy-efficient systems because they
have considerable heat regeneration.
Defects in Evaporated Milk
Condensed milk and EM are products with a prolonged shelf
life. They have typical body, texture, and sensory properties by
which they are identified. These properties must be such that
the product is fit for sale immediately after production and
does not alter during a reasonable period of storage. The prod-
uct should be physically, chemically, and microbiologically fit
for human consumption until the end of the storage period.
Routine examination of the product soon after its manufacture
as well as during its storage may be carried out to judge the
quality of the product. If a defect is noted, care should be taken
to eliminate the defect in subsequent batches. Therefore, it is
important to know the expected defects, the probable reasons
for their occurrence, and the preventive measures used to avoid
these defects. The defects that may occur in condensed milk are
classified as microbial defects and nonmicrobial defects.
294 Condensed Milk
Microbial defects
For all sterilized milk products, there is continuous risk of
postprocessing contamination. It may be through microleaks
in the cans or during the filling process. The growth of Bacillus
stearothermophilus, a thermophilic spore-forming bacteria, in
an evaporator is one of the most important causes of product
defects. Prolonged running time of the evaporator or improper
cleaning of the equipment may lead to an appreciable spore
count in the concentrated milk. Inactivation of these spores
during sterilization is limited, and the residual spores may
germinate and grow if the product is sold in tropical countries,
where storage temperatures may exceed 40  C. A brief account
of microbial defects follows.
Gassy fermentation/bloats: Gas can form in cans and barrels
of condensed milk, causing them to bulge or burst. Gas-
producing yeasts are the cause of many types of gaseous fer-
mentations. The source of the contamination may be the raw
milk, inferior quality sugar, or unhygienic factory conditions
(e.g., improperly cleaned and sanitized equipment and filling
machines). To avoid this microbiological defect, good quality
raw milk and a proper preheating temperature should be used.
In addition, only good quality sugar without any yeast con-
tamination should be used. Proper sanitary conditions should
be maintained during the manufacture and packaging of con-
densed milk. The containers should be filled fully, with little
space for air or oxygen.
Bacterial thickening: Condensed milk thickens progressively
during storage because of microorganisms, which produce
rennet-like enzymes. These organisms are easily destroyed dur-
ing the preheating process. An optimum sugar ratio also
inhibits the growth of the microorganisms. In addition, low-
temperature storage helps to reduce the bacterial thickening.
Mold buttons: This defect occurs during storage due to mold
contamination. Small reddish-brown pieces of curd about
¼ in. to 3/4 in. in diameter form on the product’s surface,
causing localized coagulation. These pieces of curd are caused
by the mold Aspergillus repeno, which produces a rennet-like
enzyme that causes localized clotting. High-temperature stor-
age promotes the growth of the organism. The milk may be
infected with the organism during the concentration process.
To avoid this defect, scrupulous cleaning and care of dairy
equipment is essential. Because this organism does not grow
at low temperatures, storing condensed milk at a lower tem-
perature will prevent this defect.
Nonmicrobial defects
These defects are of chemical or physical origin, and they are
briefly described in the following paragraphs.
Sandiness: Good quality condensed milk should possess a
smooth homogenous texture and be pleasant to the palate.
Sometimes, however, the milk may be gritty and contain a
large number of large lactose crystals. The solid particles are
so large that the product lacks smoothness. This defect is
readily detected by an average consumer. Sandy, rough, grainy,
granular, and gritty are the terms used to describe this defect. If
an excess amount of sugar is used to manufacture condensed
milk, the sugar particles may also crystallize out and cause
sandiness. To check this defect, condensed milk must be
cooled so that a large number of minute sugar crystals are
formed, which results in a smooth texture. An optimum stor-
age temperature is also essential to avoid this defect. High
viscosity also delays crystal formation; therefore, it is necessary
to rapidly cool the condensed milk in the initial stages. Correct
cooling and induced rapid crystallization with the correct
amount of seed lactose will help to avoid this defect.
Age thickening: Thickening of the condensed milk is the
most common defect seen in sweetened condensed milk.
This defect varies markedly in its intensity from slight
gelation to a firm and thick consistency. The defect becomes
progressively more intense with storage, especially at room
temperature or above. The preheating temperature of the
milk and the degree to which the milk is concentrated have
been observed to have profound effects on age thickening.
With high packaging and heating temperatures, there is a
greater tendency for the product to thicken early. With
increasing concentration of milk solids, the thickening ten-
dency becomes more marked. To avoid early thickening of
condensed milk, an optimum preheating temperature should
be maintained. Sugar should only be added at the end of the
milk condensing process, and the product should preferably
be stored at a temperature below 15  C. With the addition
of the proper type of stabilizers, age thickening may be
decreased to a great extent.
Brown color: Usually brown color discoloration is associated
with age thickening, both of which become progressively more
intense with storage. The acidity and storage temperature
determine the rapidity of this change. This defect may be
avoided by storing the condensed milk at reasonably low
temperatures.
Other defects in condensed milk include some flavor
defects such as rancid, tallowy, and metallic. Following good
manufacturing practices; using good quality raw materials,
good quality milk, and good packaging; and storing the prod-
uct at a low temperature may help to avoid these defects.
Uses of Condensed Milk
Milk is converted into EM to preserve its nutrients, which
should not perish during months or even years of storage
without refrigeration, and EM can be easily transported over
long distances. For countries with low milk production, espe-
cially in the tropics, EM is a general-use milk product. In other
markets, EM is used for specific purposes such as in coffee and
tea or for cooking. As fluid milk, EM is consumed after 1:1
dilution with boiled water. This yields a product with a slightly
higher SNF content and fat:SNF ratio than those of the regular
3.5% fat full-cream milk. Some consumers prefer the flavor of
sterilized milk to that of pasteurized or UHT-sterilized milk.
The quantity of EM required to give coffee, cocoa, or tea a
milky flavor and a white appearance is relatively small. The
products of the Maillard reaction in EM give coffee, cocoa, or
tea a yellowish hue, which is preferred over the grayish hue
obtained if UHT-sterilized or pasteurized milk is added. EM is
obtained from homogenized milk, so it is recommended for
infant feeding because of the formation of a soft curd in the
stomach. The smooth consistency of EM makes it an important
ingredient in several types of puddings, sauces, and gravies.
Owing to its high TMS content, it is used to manufacture ice

cream. It is also used to prepare chocolate, as well as bakery
and confectionery products. In addition, it is diluted with milk
and cream to produce coffee creamer.
See also: Dairy Products: Dietary and Medical Importance; Milk
Powder; Milk: Role in the Diet; Preservation of Foods; Protein: Food
Sources; Sterilization of Foods.
Further Reading
Alvarez de FA, Melcon B, and Zapico J (1991) Structural changes in sweetened
condensed milk during storage: an electron microscopy study. Journal of Dairy
Research 58: 337–344.
Caric M (1994) Concentrated and dried dairy products. New York: VCH Publishers.
Clarke PT (1999) Recombined sweetened condensed milk: the survivor. In: Proceedings
of the 3rd international symposium on recombined milk and milk products,
pp. 35–40. Brussels, Belgium: IDF, IDF Spl. Issue No. 9902.
Codex Alimentarius Commission (2011) Milk and milk products, 2nd ed. Rome: Food
& Agriculture Organization (FAO)/World Health Organization (WHO) Publishers.
Hunziker OF (1947) Condensed milk and milk powder, 7th ed. La Grange, IL: OF
Hunziker.
Kieseker FG (1982) Recombined evaporated milk. In: Proceedings of the of seminar an
recombined milk and milk products, pp. 79–88. Brussels: IDF.
Condensed Milk 295
Newstead DF (1999) Sweet-cream buttermilk powders: key functional ingredients for
recombined milk products. In: Proceedings of the 3rd international symposium on
recombined milk and milk products, pp. 55–60. Brussels: IDF.
Nieuwenhuijse JA and van Boekel MAJS (2003) Protein stability in sterilised milk
and milk products. In: Fox PF and McSweeney PLH (eds.) 3rd ed.,
Advanced dairy chemistry: proteins, 3rd ed., vol. 1, pp. 947–974. New York: Kluwer,
Part B.
Patton S (1952) Studies of heated milk. IV. Observations on browning. Journal of Dairy
Science 35: 1053.
Singh H, Creamer LK, and Newstead DF (1995) Heat stability of concentrated milk.
In: Fox PF (ed.) Heat-induced changes in milk, 2nd ed., pp. 256–278.
Brussels: IDF.
Relevant Websites
http://www.cabdirect.org/abstracts/19800463869.html – Cab Direct - Abstract.
http://ebook.worldlibrary.net/articles/Condensed_milk – World eBook Library -
Condensed Milk.
http://www.uoguelph.ca/foodscience/book-page/evaporated-skim-or-whole-milk –
University of Guelph - Evaporated Skim or Whole Milk.
http://www.uoguelph.ca/foodscience/book-page/concentrated-dairy-products –
University of Guelph - Concentrated Dairy Products.
http://www.uoguelph.ca/foodscience/book-page/concentrated-and-dried-dairy-
products – University of Guelph - Concentrated and dried dairy products.