windowboxes or other small containers. Root vegetables are possibilities; these particularly benefit from transplanting as multiblock-sown plants. Perennial vegetables and brassicas are the least worthy of space in containers. PLANTING CONTAINERS All containers must be well drained; waterlogging leads to crop failure. This can be ensured by the existence of several drainage holes in the base; if there is only one and more cannot be made, put plenty of broken pots in the bottom to provide a drainage layer. Proprietary soil-less or soil-based growing composts are best for filling the smallest of the containers, including windowboxes and hanging baskets. Soilbased products will give more stability and are likely to hold moisture better. Adding up to 20 percent sand or grit by volume will aid drainage, add weight, and probably make the overall purchase less expensive. For the largest of rigid containers and plastic sacks, the best course is to resort to filling with fertile garden soil, specially prepared by mixing in well-rotted and shredded farmyard manure or garden compost and a good measure of grit. In addition, apply a compound fertilizer to the soil surface at 1oz per sq yd (50g per sq m) and work it in to a depth of 2–3in (5–8cm). WATERING AND FEEDING Where porous materials are used, such as terra-cotta, it is helpful to line the sides with thin plastic sheet, which will effectively reduce water loss. Surface evaporation can be reduced by applying a mulch of well-rotted organic matter or even composted bark or stone chippings (see below). In all cases, watering crops in containers requires close attention to the plant and weather conditions, and the feel of the soil. Always water copiously and not in dribbles; in hot or windy weather this may be necessary twice a day or more. Never assume that natural rainfall has done the job for you. Nutrients are also used up rapidly in free-standing containers. The roots will be restricted, and have to obtain all the necessary nutrients from a smaller volume of soil than they would have naturally, so the soil needs to be enriched by regular feeding. Supplementary feeds (see pp.20–23) can be added as growth proceeds. This can be done by topdressing with a dry compound fertilizer, but liquid fertilizers are most effective and convenient. For annual crops, it is best to start each season with fresh compost, but the growing medium in large, well-fed, and watered containers can be left in place for more than one season. Compost in growing bags is ready mixed with fertilizer and will usually serve for one season’s tomato, cucumber, or sweet pepper crop; after clearing, bags can be used in a second season for strawberries or salad crops. The need for constant attention to crops grown in containers cannot be overemphasized. Plants in containers are living in fundamentally stressful conditions, and it is all too easy for much enthusiastic investment to go to waste because of a little neglect.