1

TABLE OF CONTENTS
I.- INITIAL PROCEDURE .................................................................................................................................... 3
II.- VACUUM TEST.............................................................................................................................................. 3
Troubleshooting the Priming System .................................................................................................... 5
Troubleshooting the Check Valve ....................................................................................................... 9
Troubleshooting the Mechanical Seals ............................................................................................ 10
III.- PUMPEND DISMANTLING / OVERHAUL .............................................................................................. 10
Checking Impeller’s Front Clearance............................................................................................... 10
Removing the Front cover and the Front Wear Plate .................................................................. 11
Removing the Impeller .......................................................................................................................... 12
Removing the Outer Rear Wear Plate .............................................................................................. 14
Removing the Inner Rear Wear Plate ............................................................................................... 15
Removing the Mechanical Seals ....................................................................................................... 16
Removing the Adaptor ......................................................................................................................... 18
Removing the Outer Bearing Covers ................................................................................................ 19
Removing the Shaft................................................................................................................................ 21
Removing the Bearings ......................................................................................................................... 22
III.- PUMPEND REASSEMBLY ......................................................................................................................... 25
Reinstalling the Bearings and Shaft ................................................................................................... 28
Reinstalling the Outer Bearing Covers .............................................................................................. 31
Reinstalling the Adaptor ....................................................................................................................... 33
Reinstalling the Mechanical Seals ..................................................................................................... 34
Reinstalling the Inner Rear Wear Plate ............................................................................................. 36
Reinstalling the Outer Rear Wear Plate ............................................................................................ 38
Reinstalling the Impeller ........................................................................................................................ 39
Reinstalling the Front Wear Plate and the Front Cover ............................................................... 43
Reinstalling the Motor Adaptor........................................................................................................... 45
V.- HL250M TECHNICAL DATA .................................................................................................................... 46
HL250M: Designations, Sizes & Capacities ....................................................................................... 46
HL250M: Mechanical Seal Installation Instructions ........................................................................ 47

CAUTION
This caution symbol draws attention to special instructions or procedures
which, if not correctly followed, may result in damage or destruction of the
equipment, and it may also result in personal injury.

2
 HL250M SERVICE MANUAL

I.- INITIAL PROCEDURE

LOCK & TAG OUT. Please disconnect battery cables from battery, or if the pump is
electric driven tag and lock out or disconnect cables from main power supply. This
procedure involves access to operating parts of the pump. Accidental startup may
cause injury. Disconnecting battery or power supply will reduce the chance of
accidental startup.

II.- VACUUM TEST

By doing a vacuum test before disassembly you may find problems that can be
corrected while doing other repairs. You will need a vacuum pad (Fig. 1). We
recommend pulling vacuum by starting the engine and using the pump’s compressor,
however if this is not possible, then connect a compressed air line to the Godwin venturi
system (Fig. 2). This tool is made out of a piece of steel hose hooked up to a pressure
gauge and ball valve. This tool will let you control the amount of pressure provided into
the venturi system. Once the air line is connected to the tool, open the valve slowly,
letting air flow until the gauge reads 50 PSI. Then, use a vacuum pad on suction (Fig. 4).
When compressed air enters the venturi system, the vacuum pad gauge should read
approximately 25inHg (Fig. 5) when entering at 50 PSI of air pressure.

Figure 1 – Vacuum
Pad – Diagnostic Tool

3
Air line from
Compressor

Tool for
external air Figure 2: Tool allowing connection from
supply external air supply to the venturi system. It
is recommended to pull vacuum with the
compressor supplied with the pump.

Figure 3: Compressor air line

connected to venturi system.

Figure 4: Pulling vacuum on Pump (testing for leaks).

4
 Figure 5: Pump holding vacuum.

Once the correct reading is obtained, close the valve, and wait to see if the pump can
hold vacuum for at least 2 minutes. If it does, then the priming system is working
correctly.

Troubleshooting the Priming System

If the pump does not hold vacuum after the initial vacuum test, it may be caused by a
missing or leaking ejector ball in the venturi system. This procedure involves removing the
venturi tank housing, the screen and the ejector ball seat. You can see the parts of the
venturi housing on Fig. 6.

Figure 6: Parts of the

venturi priming system

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Remove the four nuts and lock washers securing the air separation tank housing (Fig. 7).
Inspect for proper operation of ejector ball into seat (Fig. 10). If ejector ball and seat are
damaged, worn, etc., replace with new. Inspect screen and clean or replace as
necessary (Fig. 9).

Figure 7: Removing the Venturi system tank

housing

Figure 8: Removed Venturi system tank housing

Tank Housing
Screen

Figure 9: Tank housing screen protecting ejector

seat.

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Next you must remove the ejector seat. After the ejector ball has been checked, you
can put everything back together (Fig. 11).

Ejector Ball

Figure 10: Ejector seat and Ejector ball.

Ejector
Seat

Figure 11: Replacing ejector housing back onto

the front cover.

If you have not found any problems with the ejector ball, ejector seat or the screen, you
will need to check the venturi itself. The venturi has 5 parts: Jet, Jet o-ring, Collar, Nozzle
and Nozzle o-ring (Fig. 12).

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 JET

Jet
O-ring

Collar

Nozzle
O-ring

Nozzle
Figure 12: Parts of the venturi in detail.

In order to check the condition of the venturi, follow these steps:

- Loosen hose clamp.

- Remove hose.
- Loosen venturi shoulder bolt. Ensure that shoulder bolt is completely backed-out.
- Remove venturi.
- Note the condition of the Jet, Nozzle and O-rings. If the Jet or Nozzle are worn or
damaged, it may require replacement. The O-rings should not be worn, abraded, or
crushed. If so, replace with spares after cleaning.
- Clean any accumulated dirt, debris, or product from Jet and Nozzle. And check
nozzle and jet for being out of round and replace if necessary.
- Check hose for any obstructions.
- Reassemble Jet and Nozzle, and lubricate o-rings when done.

It is recommended to coat fasteners of studs with anti-seize compound to assist in later

disassembly and/or servicing.

8
Troubleshooting the Check Valve
If after inspecting the venturi priming system and a vacuum leak is still detected,
perform a vacuum test on both suction and discharge sides of the pump (Fig. 13). If the
discharge side has vacuum, then it means that the there is a leak between the seat and
check valve flap. Therefore the condition of the check valve seat and check valve flap
must be checked. In order to do this, look in the check valve lift up check valve flap,
look for debris which may be trapped between the seat and flapper, also look for
damage to the flapper or corrosion or extreme wear to the seat. If the seat is damaged,
then the check valve should be replaced. If the seat is in good condition, then the
flapper can be replaced by simply removing the lid, then remove the gasket, change
the check valve flap, replace with new gasket and reinstall the lid. Make sure to
correctly positioned check valve flapper to the seat.
After this, recheck for vacuum at the discharge flange.

Figure 13: Troubleshooting check valve by double padding.

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Troubleshooting the Mechanical Seals
Before dismantling the pump and while pulling vacuum, remove the oil fill hole plug.
Then place the palm of your hand over the hole (Fig. 14). If Vacuum is felt, then the
mechanical seals are damaged.

Figure 14: Troubleshooting the mechanical seals by feeling for vacuum leak.

III.- PUMPEND DISMANTLING / OVERHAUL

Checking Impeller’s Front Clearance
HL Series Pumps Impeller clearance should be in the range of 0.020” (0.50 mm) to 0.030”
(0.76 mm). Since the HL series pumps are for high pressure instead of high volume,
clearances should be maintained between the 0.020” (0.50 mm) to 0.030” (0.76 mm), no
greater. Make sure you measure all the way around the front edges of the impeller to
find the tightest and the widest spots (Fig. 15). Measurements at these spots will give you
a clear view of the condition of the impeller. Remember that your tightest
measurement is your clearance.

Figure 15: Checking impeller’s front clearances.

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Removing the Front cover and the Front Wear Plate
CAUTION: Prior to loosening the front cover, make sure it is secured to hoisting or lifting
equipment rated for this amount of weight (Fig. 17). Remove the eight nuts and lock
washers holding the front cover to the volute, use jacking bolts to help separate the
front cover from the volute (Fig. 18). Once front cover is removed, note the condition of
the front wear plate and the face of the impeller, and place front cover on the floor.

Figure 16: Front cover and wear plate removal.

Figure 17: Front cover and wear

plate removal.

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Removing the Impeller
You will need an 80mm socket to remove the cover nut (Fig. 18a), next you will need a
hammer and a small chisel (Fig.18b). Bend the locking tab and remove the impeller bolt
(Fig. 19) using a 30mm socket. Remove the impeller washer and remove impeller.

80mm Locking
Socket Tab

Impeller
Cover
Nut

Figure 18a: Using an 80mm Figure 18b: Bending the locking tab.
Socket to remove the cover nut

Lock Tab Impeller

Washer

Figure 19: Impeller Bolt, Lock

Tab and Impeller Washer with
o-ring for cover nut.
NOTE: Impeller bolt must read
12.9 on head of bolt.

Two O-rings
Impeller Bolt (One located on
(Hardness: 12.9) back side of washer)

These impellers are splined and should pull straight out (Fig. 20). If the Impeller is stuck,
and will not move, please follow the steps instructed in the removal of the outer rear
wear plate section (Figures 22a and 22b), because by pushing the rear wear plate out it
will help you push the impeller out as well.

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If the impeller is not stuck, simply remove the impeller. Note: Once the impeller is
removed you may find shims and a spacer stuck in the back side of the impeller or they
may still be on the shaft (Fig. 21).

At this point
Impeller
should pull Figure 20: After removing cover nut,
straight out impeller bolt and washer, remove impeller
by pulling straight out.

(CAUTION: Always wear leather

gloves when handling Impeller)

Impeller Impeller
Shim Spacer

Figure 21: After removing impeller,

locate shims and spacer, which may be
located in the rear of the impeller or still
on the shaft.

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Removing the Outer Rear Wear Plate
Proceed to remove all six 12mm nuts and lock washers holding the outer rear wear
plate. There are two short bolt plugs mounted in the back of the adapter near the rear
wear plate jacking bolts (Fig. 22a). Remove these bolt plugs and use a 16mm tap to
clean these threads (Fig. 22b), and then insert two 16mm jacking bolts, each roughly 4
5/8 inches (117mm) long (Fig. 22b), in these two holes. These two jacking bolts will push

the rear outer wear plate out, and if the impeller was stuck, this would also push the
impeller as well.

Remove rear wear

plate nuts and lock
washers…

… Then remove Bolt

Plugs (one on each
side)

Figure 22a: Removing nuts securing the outer rear wear plate.

Clean Holes
with Tap Use these jacking bolts to push rear
outer wear plate

Figure 22b: Procedure for removing outer rear wear plate.

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Removing the Inner Rear Wear Plate
Note: Before removing the inner rear wear plate, make sure to drain the seal oil, to do
this, remove the drain plug located under the adaptor. The inner rear wear plate is
secured by Allen head bolts (8mm). Remove the two bolts located at the three and
nine o’clock position (Fig. 23). Install two guide studs (8mm x 10” long). Remove
remaining Allen head bolts and pull inner rear wear plate out. If inner wear plate is stuck,
there are two jacking holes for pushing out this wear plate. Remove the plugs which are
designed to keep dirt out. Use a couple of 8mm bolts to push out the wear plate.

These are the

two jacking
holes to help
you push wear
plate out

Figure 23: Remove these grub screws

and install 8mm jacking bolts here to
help push inner rear wear plate out.

Remove bolts at 3 and 9

o’clock position, and
insert guide studs.

Figure 24: Removing inner rear wear

plate which also contains the front
seal seat.

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 Front Seal Seat

Figure 25: Inside view of inner rear wear plate,

also seen is the front seal seat.

Seal Seat
Clamping Ring

Removing the Mechanical Seals

Before removing the mechanical seals, take a moment to review all the components
shown in figure 26. These are the assembled components that will be removed during
this section.

Front Seal Seat Front Rear Seal

(Not Shown) Mechanical Face
Seal (Not Shown)

Rear
Carrier
Plate

Inner Rear
Wear Plate
O-ring Spring

Rear Carrier
Plate O-ring

Inner Rear Wear Seal Seat

Plate Clamping Front Seal
Face Rear Seal
Ring Seat (Not Shown)

Figure 26: Detailed view of all the components within the adaptor.

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Once the inner rear wear plate and front seal seat have been removed, the next step is
to remove the front seal face, which may have been stuck to the front seal seat (Fig.
27). If not, simply reach in, grab and remove, place on workbench.

Figure 27: When removing the inner

rear wear plate, it’s very common for
the front seal face to be stuck to the
front seal seat.

Front seal
face

Next grab a 3mm Allen wrench and loosen three set screws on front mechanical seal.
Now pull mechanical seal forward and off the shaft. Next remove the spring and finally
the rear mechanical seal / rear seal face.
Next remove the rear carrier plate by removing four 8mm Allen head bolts. In this step
the rear seal seat will also come with it. Note: There is an o-ring on the back of the carrier
plate, and there is an o-ring on the rear seal seat as well.

Carrier Plate

Rear seal face, and

Pin spring still installed

Figure 28: Inside view of adaptor.

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Removing the Adaptor
Remember to remove the grease fitting and nipple before removing the volute with
adaptor still attached (Fig. 29).

Figure 29: Removing grease fitting

and nipple.

Remove the volute with adaptor still attached (Fig. 30). There is an o-ring between the
volute and the adaptor, however if it’s not leaking generally you can get away with not
separating the two. Unless one or the other is damaged, in which case they will need to
be separated, the damaged part replaced and a new o-ring installed. Place on floor
and continue with checking end float of the shaft and bearings.

Figure 30: Removing the

adaptor attached to
the volute.

Adaptor Volute

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Now check the shaft end float (axial Float) as shown in figure 31. This will determine if
you need to replace the bearings or not. Attach the magnetic base to front bearing
cover, and the dial indicator to the tip of the shaft. Shaft End float should be 0.006” (0.15
mm) or less. To check end float zero the dial indicator, then push shaft forward and read
the dial indicator, pull shaft in opposite direction and read the dial indicator, and add
the two readings together, reading should be 0.006” or less. Also rotate shaft and see if
any grinding noises are noted. If end float is greater than 0.006” or grinding noises are
noticed, proceed to following steps.

Checking Figure 31:

End Float Checking the
(0.006” or less) shaft End
Float.

Removing the Outer Bearing Covers

First remove the pin located in the tip of the shaft, that pin was used to keep the
impeller washer from rotating. Then proceed to removing the outer bearing covers.

Figure 32: Removing front and

rear outer bearing covers.

Front Outer
Pin
Bearing
Cover
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Remove the six bolts holding the front and rear outer bearing covers. You will find that
three bolts are shorter than the other three and they are staggered. The three short bolts
fasten into the bearing bracket, and the three long bolts pass through the bearing
bracket into an inner bearing cover (Fig. 34). Remove all bolts and remove outer
bearing covers (Fig. 33). Then remove the grease lip seals of each cover.

Figure 33: Removing Front Outer

Bearing cover.

Figure 34: The inner bearing

covers.

Inner Bearing
Covers

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Removing the Shaft
You will find the tab washers and locknuts located behind each of the bearing covers.
Bend up the locking tab at each end of the bearing bracket and remove tab washers
and Locknuts (Fig. 35).
Bearing
Tab Washer

Figure 35: View of bearing tab washer

and locknut after removal of outer
bearing covers.

Bearing
Locknut

After removing the locknuts and tab washers, the shaft can be driven out the drive end
(rear side) of the bearing bracket. You can use a 6”x6” (3 feet long) block of hard
wood to drive shaft and bearings out. Using a block of wood does not damage the
shaft. If you have the ability to use a press, that is also acceptable. However when using
a block of wood make sure you have the other end of the shaft secured with the help
of a friend or a strap and a crane (Fig. 36).

Figure 36: Shaft Removal.

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 Figure 37: Shaft
Removed.

Inner Race of Front

Rear Ball Roller Bearing
Bearings

Once the shaft, rear ball bearings and front inner race have been removed, reach in
the bearing bracket through the upper lid area and remove the inner bearing covers.
Then proceed to remove the front outer race. This can be done by using a brass punch
and driving the outer race into the bearing bracket. Then reach in and remove it.

Removing the Bearings

To remove the two drive end (rear side) ball bearings you will have to use a cutting
torch (Fig. 38) to cut the outer races only. Cut all the way through the outer races on
one side and repeat the procedure on the other side (180o). This will remove the outer
races exposing the bearing cage (Fig. 40).

Figure 38: Using a cutting torch to

remove outer races only.

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 Figure 39: Cutting outer races.

Figure 40: Once outer races

are removed, this exposes
the ball bearings and bearing
cage.

The bearing cage can be easily removed by melting it or using a cutter to simply cut the
cage which is made of plastic. Use a rosebud tip to heat the inner races very quickly as
to not transfer heat to the shaft (Fig. 41). Once the proper temperature is reached the
inner bearings will fall off shaft, if not, tap them with a small brass hammer.

23
 Figure 41: Removing
inner races with a
rosebud tip.
WARNING: Do not use
cutting torch tip on the
inner race.

Now repeat the procedure for the inner race on the other end (front side) of the shaft,
for this step you will only be using the rosebud tip (Fig. 42).

Figure 42: Heating inner race with rosebud tip.

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III.- PUMPEND REASSEMBLY
Now that the old ball bearings have been removed from the shaft, place shaft in a vice
and thoroughly clean the shaft and prepare for new bearing installation. Before
installing the ball bearings notice that the inner races of the bearings have different
widths on each side (Fig. 43).

Notice that the inner races are

different. One side is thicker,
and one side is thinner.
Red arrow indicates thinner
side, yellow arrow indicates
thicker side.

Figure 43: Difference on width of

inner races on both sides of the
ball bearings.

There is a right way and a wrong way to install the ball bearings, Figure 44 will show you
the right way.

Figure 44: Bearings go together this

way.

When assembling on the shaft, the

two thinner inner races face each
other. Therefore the thicker races are
on the outside facing the shoulder of
the shaft and the tab washer and
locknut.

Now heat the first bearing to 250o F. You can use an electromagnetic bearing heater to
heat the bearing. Use a temperature stick to know when the bearing has reached 250o
F. When the stick melts at 250o F, the bearing is ready to be installed onto shaft (Fig. 45).
25
 Figure 45: Using a temperature
stick to indicate when bearing
reaches proper temperature.

Now that the bearing has been heated to 250oF install the first ball bearing onto the
shaft, the thicker side of the inner race should go on first facing the shoulder of the shaft
(Fig. 46).

First ball bearing

installed, thicker
inner race towards
the shaft.
Figure 46: Installing ball
bearing on shaft.

Now heat the second ball bearing following the same procedure as above and install.
However, make sure to install the second ball bearing in reverse, with the thinner side of
the inner race first (Fig. 47).

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 Figure 47: Second ball bearing
installed. The thicker sides of the
inner races (yellow arrows) are
facing outward. The thinner sides of
the inner races (red arrow) face
each other.

After installing the second ball bearing, proceed to install tab washer and locknut.
Tighten locknut up and bend the appropriate tab (Fig. 48).

Thicker side of
inner race

Locknut
Figure 48: Detailed view of the
installed second bearing.

Bending Tab
on Washer

Now heat the front roller bearing inner race to 250o F (Fig. 49). Then install the inner race
onto the shaft (Fig. 50).

27
 Figure 49: Heating the front
roller bearing inner race to 250oF.

Figure 50: Installing the inner

race of the front roller bearing
onto shaft.

Once installed on the shaft allow to cool. Note: Do not put tab washer and locknut on
the front inner race at this time.

Reinstalling the Bearings and Shaft

Before reinstalling the shaft and bearings into the bearing bracket put the inner bearing
covers in facing the appropriate direction (Fig. 51).

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 Figure 51: Installing inner
bearing covers.

Install the front roller bearing outer race (Fig. 52). Tap bearing in until flush with the
bearing bracket.

Tap bearing in until flush

with the bearing
bracket.

Figure 52: Installing the front roller

bearing outer race (In this figure the
bearing outer race is partially
installed).

Now install the shaft and bearings back into the bearing bracket (Fig. 53), tap the rear
ball bearings until flush with bearing bracket. Note: During the disassembly parte of the
manual, a block of wood was used to drive the shaft and bearings out of the bearing
bracket. Do not reinstall the shaft and bearings that way. Tap the outer races while
someone is pulling the shaft.
Once the shaft and bearings are installed into the bearing bracket (Fig. 54), the next
step is to install the front tab washer and locknut (Fig. 55). Install the tab washer, place
the locknut on and tighten, then bend appropriate tab.

29
 Figure 53: Installing the shaft and
bearings back into the bearing
bracket.
CAUTION: Make sure you use
hoisting equipment rated for this
amount of weight.

Figure 54: Shaft and

bearings back into
the bearing bracket.

Figure 55: Installing

the tab washer and
locknut. Be sure to
tighten the locknut
and bend the tap.

30
Reinstalling the Outer Bearing Covers
Now that the front and rear tab washers and locknuts are installed, proceed to install
the rear outer bearing cover with the three short bolts and lock washers then tighten.
Next install the three long bolts and lock washers into the inner bearing cover, tighten all
bolts securely. Next follow the same procedure for the front outer bearing cover, install
the three short bolts and lock washers, then tighten, then install the three long bolts and
lock washers, then tighten as well (Fig. 56).

Figure 56: Installing the front outer bearing

cover

Now that the bearing covers are installed, check the shaft end float (Fig. 57). Do not
assume that just because these are new bearings they are good, always check end
float after installing new bearings. End float for this particular pump should be 0.006” or
less. With this style of bearings you will probably wind up with zero (0.000”) end float.

Figure 57: Checking the shaft

end float.

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Once the bearing covers are installed and shaft end float has been checked,
temporarily reinstall the grease fittings (Fig. 58) and grease the bearings (Fig. 59) until
you see grease coming out between the shaft and the inner bearing covers while
looking in the top of the bearing bracket.

Figure 58: Temporarily installed front and rear grease fittings.

Figure 59: Greasing the

bearings.

32
Now temporarily remove the grease fittings, and install the bearing bracket lid (Fig. 60).
Be sure to reinstall a new gasket and a small amount of silicon for extra protection
against water infiltration. Water should not be able to enter the bearing bracket around
the bearing bracket lid.

Figure 60: Installing the bearing

bracket lid.

Reinstalling the Adaptor

Next step is to reinstall the adaptor and volute (Fig. 61). The volute and the adaptor
were separated during the disassembly of the pump because neither part was
damaged. If one of those two were damaged they would need to be separated and
the damaged part replaced. There is an o-ring between the adaptor and volute. If the
adaptor and volute are separated, the o-ring should be replaced. Once the adaptor is
bolted to the bearing bracket, reinstall the grease fitting and the nipple back into the
front bearing cover through the hole in the top of the adaptor. You will reinstall the
grease fitting and nipple on the rear bearing cover after the motor adaptor is installed.

Figure 61: Reinstalling There is an o-ring

the adaptor and the between the
volute. volute and
adaptor.

33
Reinstalling the Mechanical Seals
Place o-ring behind the rear carrier plate (and then install the rear seal seat with its o-
ring into the carrier plate as shown below (Fig. 62b). Next install the carrier plate into the
adaptor and secure with four 8mm Allen head bolts. There are two holes in the carrier
plate designed for removal of the carrier plate during disassembly, in the picture below
you can see that the bolts have not been removed yet. The bolts that secure the rear
carrier plate can also be used for this purpose.

Figure 62a: Back side of the rear carrier

plate.

Rear carrier
plate o-ring.

Rear Seal Seat

(There is an o-ring
underneath)

Figure 62b: View of carrier plate installed

34
Next install the rear seal face and spring which come packaged together and then the
front mechanical seal. Note: There are three grub screws on the side of the front
mechanical seal, back the screws out two or three threads, apply a couple of drops of
blue Loctite threadlocker on each of the screws and install onto shaft (Fig. 63). Be sure
to lubricate all o-rings before assembly. Do not put the front seal face on at this time.
The front seal face will be added after setting the mechanical seal.

Figure 63: Apply blue Loctite threadlocker

on grub screws

Next you will need a seal setting tool to set the proper location of the front mechanical
seal on the shaft. Remember to not install the front seal face while doing this procedure.
Install tool shown below (Fig. 64) using two of the holes which held the inner wear plate
and tighten. Take an Allen wrench and tighten the three grub screws which you just
applied the Loctite threadlocker to. Now remove the seal setting tool and check to
make sure all grub screws are tight and install front seal face at this time. See page 47
for a different detailed version of how seals are installed.

Front seal face Once seal setting tool

should not be has been removed,
installed at this time. install front seal face

Figure 64: Securing seal setting tool. Figure 65: Installing front seal face.

35
Reinstalling the Inner Rear Wear Plate
Next install the front seal seat into the inner rear wear plate. Lubricate the o-ring using
111 silicon grease (Fig 66). Put clamping ring on and tighten with four bolts (Fig. 67).

Clamping Ring

Front Seal
Figure 66: Different parts
Seat O-ring
of the Inner Wear Plate.
Front Seal Seat

Inner Rear Wear

Plate

Inner Rear Wear

Plate O-ring

Figure 67: Inner wear plate

completely assembled.
Make sure to lubricate the
inner wear plate o-ring.

Next install the inner rear wear plate o-ring as seen in Fig. 67, be sure to lubricate it with
111 grease. Now install the rear inner wear plate back into the adaptor. Note: Guide
studs were used to help with the reassembly. Using guide studs help not to chip the front
seal seat while going back together. Now secure with four Allen head bolts.

36
Put the two bolts in at the top and bottom and remove the guide studs. Then install the
final two bolts, and tighten securely. In the picture below (Fig. 68) we are pointing to the
jacking bolt holes that can be used during disassembly to help remove the inner wear
plate.

Figure 68: Installing the rear inner

wear plate with the help of guide
studs.

Now that the inner rear wear plate has been installed, fill the seal housing with 15W40 oil
(Fig. 69). Note: Make sure you installed the drain plug before doing this. After filling the
seal housing inspect for oil leaks around the shaft inside the volute and underneath the
adaptor / seal housing, there is a small round hole that with a mirror and a flashlight you
can look up to see if it’s leaking on the backside of the volute.

15W40 OIL

Figure 69: Filling the seal housing and

inspecting for leaks. Note: Make sure
you installed the drain plug before
doing this.

37
Reinstalling the Outer Rear Wear Plate
Before installing the outer rear wear plate you have to glue six small o-rings around each
of the fastening holes (Fig. 70). Then add two guide studs to assist you during this
installation (Fig. 71). Proceed to fit the outer rear wear plate into the volute.

Figure 70: Outer rear wear plate ready for

reassembly into the volute.

Figure 71: Outer rear wear plate

installed into the volute.

Now that the outer rear wear plate is installed, remove the guide studs and install all six
nuts and lock washers and tighten securely.

38
Reinstalling the Impeller
Note: Another view of reinstalling the impeller can be read on pages 49 and 50.

After installing the rear outer wear plate is time to install the impeller. Make sure that
splines on the impeller and the shaft are cleaned thoroughly. The next step would be to
place the spacer on the shaft. One of the sides of the spacer has a bevel end, while the
other side is flat (Fig. 72). The side that has a bevel end must face the shoulder of the
shaft therefore the flat side will be facing out (Fig. 73). The next step is to add the
impeller shims. Select the appropriate amount and install on shaft against flat side of
spacer (Fig. 73).
This side has a
bevel end.
This side is flat

Figure 72: Pictured here are

two spacers. Note: Each side
is different.

Spacer, bevel
end side
facing shaft Shim, facing
flat side of
spacer.

Figure 73: Pictured here is the spacer on the

shaft and shims next.

39
Next step is to add the o-ring to the back side of the impeller (Fig. 74), anti-seize the o-
ring and the splines in the impeller and also the splines on the shaft.

Figure 74: This picture shows the

installation of the o-ring on the back
side of the impeller.

O-ring
Lubricate the o-ring and
the inside of the impeller
with anti-seize.

Now install impeller onto shaft (Fig. 75). Check clearance and adjust accordingly by
adding or removing shims. Try to achieve a clearance between 0.020” (0.50 mm) and
0.030” (0.76 mm). Next install the anti-rotation pin in the tip of the shaft (Fig. 76).

Anti-rotation pin
installed

Figure 75: Checking clearance on Figure 76: Installing the anti-rotation pin,
rear of impeller tip of the shaft

40
Next step is to install the impeller washer (Fig. 77) to the front of the impeller there is
an anti-rotation pin that needs to be installed into the washer, there are also two o-
ring that go on each side of the washer. Install the washer onto the face of the
impeller. Take the impeller bolt, soak the threads of the impeller bolt with motor oil
and install through washer and into the shaft. Make sure the impeller bolt says 12.9 on
the head of the bolt. Note: Do not install the tab lock washer at this time.

Anti-rotation
pin

Figure 77: Seen here is a picture of the

impeller washer

O-ring to seal Impeller

cover nut Washer

Once the impeller washer and impeller bolt are installed, torque the impeller bolt to
570 ft-lbs (Fig. 78) without the tab washer. The purpose of this is to stretch the threads
inside the shaft as well as the threads on the bolt, by adding the oil it reduces the
resistance and you can achieve a more accurate torque. If the pump is mounted on
a work bench, you would have to use a pipe wrench mounted to the back of the
pump shaft, and then allow the pipe wrench to rest against the table to hold the
shaft in place while you torque the impeller bolt. After you torque the bolt to 570 ft-
lbs let this sit for a few minutes, then remove the impeller bolt. Apply motor oil to the
bolt and then install the tab lock washer and impeller bolt. Now re-torque the bolt to
180 ft-lbs. Check clearances behind the impeller.

Figure 78: Torque impeller bolt to

570 ft-lbs and then remove the bolt
apply motor oil to the threads and install
tab lock washer and re-torque to 180 ft-
lbs, then check clearance.

41
If the clearance is between 0.020” (0.50 mm) and 0.030” (0.76 mm) then bend the tab
on the tab lock washer to secure the bolt (Fig. 79). If the clearance is not between
0.020” (0.50 mm) and 0.030” (0.76 mm) remove the impeller, add or remove shims to
achieve the appropriate clearance and the re-torque the impeller bolt to 180 ft-lbs. Do
not torque to 570 ft-lbs with tab lock washer installed this will damage the tab lock
washer.

Impeller
Washer

Tab Lock
Washer

Figure 79: Bending the tab lock

washer after checking clearances.

Impeller Bolt
(Hardness: 12.9)

Now put anti-seize on the threads of the impeller washer and o-ring (Fig. 80) and install
cover nut (Fig. 81).

80mm
Socket

Impeller
Cover
Nut

Figure 80: Putting anti-seize on the threads Figure 81: Installing the cover nut using an
of the impeller washer and o-ring 80mm socket

42
Reinstalling the Front Wear Plate and the Front Cover
First lubricate the front cover o-ring with 111 grease (Fig. 82), and then place it on the
goove located on the groove of around the volute front edges as as shown in figure 83.
Then proceed to install the front cover onto the volute. CAUTION: Prior installing the
front cover, make sure it is secured to hoisting or lifting equipment rated for this amount
of weight (Fig. 83).

Figure 82: The front cover o-ring must be

lubricated with 111 grease before installing it.

Front Cover O-ring

Figure 83: Reinstalling

the Front Cover to the
volute.

The lubricated front cover o-

ring must be placed it in the
groove located around the
volute’s edge.

43
Install two nuts, one on each side of the front cover, temporarily so that you can check
the clearances between the front of the impeller and the front wear plate (Fig. 84).
Clearance should be between 0.020” (0.50 mm) and 0.030” (0.76 mm), if not, remove
the front cover, then remove the front wear plate. Using guide studs will help you
remove the front wear plate. There are shims located behind the front wear plate, add
or remove shims to achieve 0.020” (0.50 mm) to 0.030” (0.76 mm) clearance.

Figure 84: Checking clearances

between the front wear plate and the
impeller.

The front wear plate is held on by six bolts with dowty washers (Fig. 85). Replace the
dowty washers if removing the front wear plate, replace front wear plate to the front
cover. Now reinstall the front cover to volute and check clearances again.

Figure 85: Reinstalling front cover and front wear plate

44
If clearances are correct, then install all nuts and lock washers securing the front cover
and check the front wear plate bolts. Now pull vacuum by double padding the pump,
which means to put a vacuum pad on both suction and discharge and see if the pump
holds vaccum. If any leaks are noticed they must be found and repaired.

Reinstalling the Motor Adaptor

Remove the pump from the work bench, place on the floor with jackstand underneath
the bearincg bracket. Therefore the bearing bracket will be resting on the jackstand
and the volute will be resting on its base. Now attach the motor adaptor held on by
eight 16mm nuts and lock washers, and reinstall the grease fitting and nipple for the rear
bearing cover (Fig. 86).

Figure 86: Motor adaptor reinstalled onto

the bearing bracket.

45
V.- HL250M TECHNICAL DATA
HL250M: Designations, Sizes & Capacities

Suction / Delivery bore 12” x 10” 300mm x 250mm

Max. Flow 4752 GPM 1080 m3/hr

Max. Head 380’ 116 m

Max. Solids Handling 2.6” 65 mm

Max. Working Temperature 176oF 80oC

Max. Working Pressure 188 PSI 13 bar

Engine Driven 2,170 lbs 986 kg

Weight
Motor Driven
Min 1200 RPM
Speed
Norm 1800 RPM
Range
Max 2000 RPM
MA Flange 0 or 1 SAE

Shaft end float 0.050 mm max 0.006” max

Cast Iron
Impeller / Wear 0.50 mm to 0.63 mm 0.020” to 0.025”
Impeller Clearances plates
(Front & Rear) Stainless Steel
Impeller / Wear 0.63 mm to 0.76 mm 0.025” to 0.030”
plates
Impeller or Bolt Initial 570.0 lbs.ft, then relax to Initial 776.0 N-m, then relax to
torque 180.0 lbs.ft 240.0 N-m
Ø Shaft at seal
75 mm
position
Seal working Drive end: 37.0 ± 0.3 mm
length Pump End: 45.5 ± 0.3 mm
Shell Nertia HV
Bearing Bracket Mobile SHV 46
Grease type Tota; Multis Complex EP2
Belesta XPG
Any SAE 20/20 or
Type
Seal BIOPUS 46 Biodegradable
Housing 5.5 liters initial fill. Top up to full mark on
Capacity
dipstick after 1 hour running
Compressor
Total Cortusa 100
Oil type

46
HL250M: Mechanical Seal Installation Instructions

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