History of The Jeep, Both The Word and The Vehicle - How It Got It's Jeep Name - Brian's Military Jeeps of WWII

History of the Jeep, both the word and the vehicle - How it got it's Jee... http://wwiijeepparts.com/Archives/WWIIJeepHistory.
html
JEEP?
Please, encyclopedia editors, book authors, and others, stop supplying mis-information.
'GP' DOES NOT stand for General Purpose when talking about jeeps. There are GP
(general purpose) tents, but there WERE NOT any 'general purpose' jeeps.
'GP' really stood for... G= 'Government' P= '80 inch wheelbase'.
'G' was used by Ford to differentiate between vehicles produced for the Government and for
civilian use. (A= Passenger car, B= Bus, C= Commercial vehicle, etc.).
Letters where used at Ford to differentiate between different models with different
horsepower ratings, wheelbase measurement, etc. 'P' just happened to land at the "80 inch"
spot, which is the wheelbase of a jeep.
I have posted a scan of the page from the very rare 1941 Ford booklet "Service School for US
Army Instructors on Ford US Army Vehicles (1941)" showing very clearly that all Ford "G"
prefixes stood for "Government" and "P" means "80 inch wheelbase reconnaissance car". "W"
stands for "Willys" since they were the designers of the original blueprints of the MA, on
which the MB / GPW jeeps were based. ~ courtesy of Ray Cowdery - used with his permission
"America's only real sports car"

Enzo Ferrari commenting on the Jeep
"The Jeep, the Dakota and the Landing Craft were the three tools that won the war"
Gen. Dwight D. Eisenhower
"[The] equipment...among the most vital to our success in Africa and Europe were
the bulldozer, the jeep, the 2 1/2 ton truck, and the C-47 airplane.
Curiously enough, none of these is designed for combat."
Gen. Dwight D. Eisenhower
"Paved Roads - just another example of useless government spending"
Warn Winch advertisement showing a Jeep being driven on a canyon floor in the fading afternoon
sunlight
"God created asphalt so yuppies can go four-wheeling"
posted on willys jeep newsgroup
Hummer H2 and H3, The vehicle screams "Look at me - I'm a total poser"!
While the H2/H3 driver yells "Can you pull me out with your Jeep?"
"Real Jeeps have Round Headlights"
< Previous Like Easy Surf Historical War & Heritage
sites Off Suprise Me! Next >
1 di 33 24/05/2013 17:27
History of the Jeep, both the word and the vehicle - How it got it's Jee... http://wwiijeepparts.com/Archives/WWIIJeepHistory.html
Lots More Jeep History Below:

How did it get to be called a 'jeep' anyway?
Origins of the Jeep
How Many U.S. Companies Built Army Jeeps in WWII?
Army Surplus Jeep in a Crate for $50?
What exactly is "Cosmolene" anyway?
What was it like buying Army Surplus and Military Vehicles ~ Looking Back
Where can I buy a WW2 Jeep? Do you have a WWII Jeep for sale?
How can I tell a Military Jeep Engine from a Civilian Engine?
Jeep Engine & Power Train
What is the shifting pattern for the WWII Jeep? My data plate is missing.
So you bought your first jeep and want to restore it. Now what?
Help! Calif. DMV wants me to pay ALL the back fees on the jeep I just bought!
SPECIAL LAWS for Titling and Registering your MV!
Insurance Issues for Military Vehicles
The Jeep is driveable - What can I do with it?
World War Two Jeep Driving Safety Issues
Towing your restored WW2 jeep
Where can I look up where my military jeep was used in WWII?
Where do I find my WW2 Jeeps Serial Numbers?
What are WWII Army Jeep Hood Registration Numbers?
Where & How do I find my WW2 Jeeps Hood Registration Numbers?
Can you estimate my WWII Army Jeep's Hood Registration Numbers?
Gasoline Soluble Paint used for Hood Registration Numbers, and other vehicle markings.
WWII Jeep Paint ~ There's more than one Olive Drab Paint Color.
What’s a "Script Body Tub"?
Were early 1942 Ford GPW’s on Willys Frames?
What are Black Out Lights?
What is that strange Bracket on the Driver's Side Fender for?
What are the Thumbscrews, Thumbwheels and other hardware on the Windshield for?
What is the long bracket on the inside of the windshield for?
Why is the gas tank located under the driver's seat?
Re: Anti-Decapitation Device
Lend Lease Jeeps to Russia
Re: Winterization Kits
Re: Canvas Tops and Doors
Re: Windshield Covers
GPA Amphibious Jeeps built by Ford
"Follow Me" Army Jeeps of the AAF
Willys MBT and Bantam T-3 Jeep 1/4-ton Trailers (K-38, M-100 and M-416 too)
One Method of Military Jeep Disposal After World War Two
WWII Willys Canadian Scout Car Jeep - The "W-LU 440-M-PERS-1"
WWII Russian GAZ Jeeps
Germany's 'Jeep-like' war vehicle - The Kuebelwagen
WW2 Wartime Civilian or AGRI-Jeeps
The Jeepney of the Philippines
WWII MB/GPW JEEPS & HOLLYWOOD
WWII Jeep Archives & Photo Libraries
2 di 33 24/05/2013 17:27
How did it get to be called a jeep anyway?

There were several things called by the name jeep before there existed a 1/4 ton 4x4 by that name. Where
the word jeep was originated and was first spoken doesn't hold much interest to me. My efforts are
focused only on my interest; how did my favorite vehicle get its name? Sure it was called a peep, or a
pygmy, quad, Bantam, and others by some at it's birth, but in short order it TOOK the name 'Jeep' away
from everything else that was using it. There is only one vehicle that comes to mind when you say the
name Jeep. There are not many things that can be referenced to universally with just one word, a quick list
I can think of would be; Kleenex, Xerox, (the) Pope, Hitler (Adolf sure ruined that family name, didn't he).
Notice 'Coke' and 'Madonna' didn't make the list since there are 2 of each.
Today's editors rely on the previous work of other editors. Once the legend was conjured up, and someone
put it in print everyone after that keeps quoting the same old incorrect sources. (I think it was Wells in
1946 in his 'Hail to the Jeep' book, but I would have to go dig out my copy to be sure).
The reference I quote (and show a scanned photograph) is from a very rare Ford document. It was not
published for the public. It was not published for ‘internal use’ by everyone at the Ford Company. It was
from an instruction manual for training army instructors, specifically, the Motor Pool, Driving, and Parts
Dept. servicemen. By the way, jeep procurement was the responsibility of the Quartermaster Corps
1940-1942 and then the Ordnance Department 1943-1945. There were very few service instructors
needed. The Army trained thousands of men to be pilots and infantrymen... but very few how to fly a
blimp, or to instruct others on Ford jeeps. A lot more infantrymen and pilots needed replacing (due to
death & injury) than jeep instructors. The manual is titled "Service School for US Army Instructors on
Ford US Army Vehicles (1941)". This copy belongs to Ray Cowdery, author of 2 books on the WWII
jeeps. Ray Cowdery has been restoring WWII jeeps for many decades. When I first met him in the early
80's, he had already attained jeep guru status.
Well we just saw that GP stands for Government 80 inch Wheelbase Reconnaissance Car.
GPW is Government 80 inch Wheelbase Reconnaissance Car Willys (design).
See very early Ford GPW Jeep cutaway diagram. (How do I know it is very early? By the slatgrill style air
cleaner).
1/2 of the Army jeeps produced for the war were Ford GP's & GPW's.
Right on the dashboard - right in the face of the driver & passenger are the Data Plates.
And on that data plate in bold letters is "Make and Model - Ford GP".
Later the GPW's were issued, and they came with glove boxes, again right in the face of driver &
passenger and again clearly marked "Model - Ford GPW"
Close up of 1942 Ford GPW Glove Box Data Plates. (Early QMC 3 Data Plates set).
Photograph of 1945 WWII Ford GPW Jeep Dashboard. (Late ORD 4 Data Plate set).
Photograph of WWII GPW Jeep Dash Data Plates from distance.
Every Jeep was issued with manuals.

In 1941, 1942, 1943 there were 2 manuals issued.
The Parts List and the Maintenance Manual. They were published by the respective vehicle manufacturer.
These were stored in a zippered pocket of the lower drivers seat cushion in 1941, and into early 1942.
After that they were stored in the glove box (which Ford invented). In big bold letters on the cover of both
manuals would be "Part List" or "Maintenance Manual" followed by "Truck, 1/4ton 4x4. Model FORD
GPW"
In 1944 & 1945 the Government took over issuing the manuals.
They issued 6 manuals for the WWII jeep.
3 repair manuals tackled different repairs (Engine, Power Train, Body & General Maintenance).
3 parts manuals were also issued. The Ordnance Dept.'s G503 Standard Nomenclature List (SNL G-503
Ord 7, Ord 8, Ord 9).
3 di 33 24/05/2013 17:27
The Ord 7 Parts List was short and carried with the jeep - it only listed things that would be replaced by a
driver i.e. gas cap, light bulb, headlights, wiper blades, etc.
The Ord 8 was issued to motor pools at front line areas. It listed items (read assy's) that could be repaired
at the front line units with basic automotive repair tools. For example water pumps and starter motor, but
it would not list windings, impeller shafts, etc. as at the front, if the motor went bad, they would drop in a
whole new motor rather than try to rebuild it in the weeds.
The last was the Ord 9, it was the Master Parts list that the rear echelon units used (who would rebuild
water pumps, engines etc.).
All 6 of the manuals issued (3x Ord parts & the 3 repair maintenance) would again be issued with "Model
GPW" (also Willys MB) boldly written on the cover and inside pages.
GI's were issued military drivers licenses, (and you had to be qualified or ‘rated’ to drive each type or
weight class of vehicle), after studying and completing drivers training course. (I have these manuals as
well). In class, vehicles were referred to by their official terminology, CCKW's, DUKW's, WC's, GPW's,
etc.
Drivers licenses were issued in types, depending on what types of vehicles you were qualified to operate.
The ratings were; A= Amphibious, M= Motorcycle, T= Tracked vehicle, and W = Wheeled vehicle.
Photograph of World War Two Amphibious, Motorcycle, Tracked vehicle, and Wheeled Vehicle (Jeep and
other) Driver qualification badges.
Please take a look at my website’s guest book and message boards. Many vets have written there that
during W.W.II, there existed a definite bias on coveting GPW's over MB's. The perceived notion was
based on the belief that Ford GPW's were built better than the Willys GPW. (I own both, I don't care for
one over the other - I love them both). So it seems the most requested jeep at checkout time from the
motor pool was the GPW- they requested it by name!!
So, in a nutshell, before you got behind the wheel of one, you had to be taught to refer to it in army school
jargon ~ a Ford GP.
Based on the scuttlebutt on durability, you asked for the stronger "GP" by name when checking one out
from the motor pool.
Then as you drove it around, the "GP" on the data plate on the dashboard stared you in the face for every
foot of the miles you drove the Ford GP.
When there was a mechanical problem, you had to go into the glove box for the manuals, where you were
again presented its model name "GP" in bold face type.
Upon returning it to the motor pool or bivouac area, you had to fill out the paperwork explaining why the
GP was missing it’s side view mirror, or gas cap etc.
Guess who had to fill out the paperwork requisitioning a replacement? Not the Sgt., he's got more stripes
than you do. You got to fill out the form, and you had to look up the part # in your GP's Ord 7 or TM, and
there you would find that the rear view mirror you broke when you hit that tree branch was listed as part#
"GP-17723-A at a cost of .65 cents" Reference ‘TM-10-1348 Change #1 April 10 1942 Ford Parts List’
Yes, early prototypes were called the quad, the pygmy, the peep, but when the production Ford GP's were
released with GP stamped right in your face, they soon stopped calling the 1/2 ton dodges 'jeeps'. And the
rest is history. The Ford built amphibious jeeps or GPA's were called "Seeps" by the way (see below for
more info on them).
When the vehicle is called in writing a GP, and you’re taught that name in class getting your driver’s
license, and there, stamped on the ID Nameplate on the vehicle itself, is the name, and when you say it’s
name, GP, out loud in a normal cadence, it's a "jeepy".
Yes, Eugene the jeep from Popeye is a cute character, and both he and the vehicle can do just about
everything, well WWII Jeeps can do almost anything (WW2 USMC special "Front Line Ambulance" Jeep
buried in mud), but if you dig any deeper than the folklore, it's pretty obvious how the 1/4ton War Baby
4 di 33 24/05/2013 17:27
got it’s name. :) How the other things prior to 1940 got to be called jeep I do not know.
Origins
"In truth and in fact, the idea of creating the Jeep was originated by the American Bantam
Car Co. of Butler, PA, in collaboration with certain officers of the United States Army, and the
same was developed by the American Bantam Car Co. in collaboration with said officers,
AND NOT BY THE RESPONDENT, WILLY'S-OVERLAND MOTORS, INC."
Federal Trade Commission, 1943

jeep according to Jeep Corp. Jeep Corp has now removed this page <http://www.jeep.com
/news_features/heritage/index.html> - it seems my work here got through to them finally.
Revised version of 'jeep according to JEEP Corp.'

early jeep history
The Jeep Grill and Other Design Origins
Jeep Grill Origins - Willys/Kaiser/AMC/Chrysler/Daimler didn't invent the distinctive
jeep grill, Ford did. (Now they are going after Hummer grills too.)
The problem is that Daimler / Chrysler's legal claim is based on the wrong idea that
Willys invented the grill. Willys didn't, Ford did. Willys was still using the "Slat grill"
grill on it's military jeeps in March of 1942, while Ford had the bright idea of a faster,
cheaper stamped grill in Jan 1942. I own Ford GPW # 327 and it's date of delivery was
Feb. 5th 1942, the 2nd day Ford had completed GPW army jeeps rolling out the factory
doors. It has the original stamped steel slotted grill. I also own a Willys Slatgrill MB
delivered on Feb. 3rd 1942, which makes for a nice comparison between what the 2
companies were doing differently at the same moment in history. Ford invented the
stamped grill, and Ford invented the glove box, and Ford invented the rounded corner
gas tank sump. Ford also invented the "Flip Up" headlights mounted on a hinged arm to
use the head lights as a engine compartment work light on the GP & GPW. Willys
copied all of these ideas.
Photograph of very early Feb. 1942 Ford GPW Jeep serial # 713 with stamped grill.
Photograph of March 1942 Willys MB with welded "Slat Grill".
Photograph of March 1942 Willys Slatgrill Jeep (close up).
Photograph of Early 1941 Willys MA without "Flip Up" headlights.
Photograph of Early 1941 Ford GP with "Flip Up" headlights.
Photograph of Ford GPW with "Flip Up" headlights.
Photograph of Ford GPW glove box on very early 1942 "Ford" Script body tub.
Photograph of Willys Slatgrill without glove box on dashboard.
In Toledo, Ohio there is a sign that commemorates Toledo as being the "birthplace of the
jeep". Hmmm, as much as I love Willys jeeps... I'm not buying that.
by March 25, 1941...
Bantam was delivering it's second order of BRC's
Ford was delivering it's first order of GP's
On this day the first 'Russian Bantam', the GAZ Razvedchik One, or R-1,
(Russian for 'scout/recon' car) rolled off the assembly line. Vitaly Grachev, a
Russian engineer, and his crew, went from no blue-prints to having a running
vehicle in an amazing 50 days from scratch to finish. They worked only from
5 di 33 24/05/2013 17:27
newspaper photographs and glowing reviews of the Bantam BRC-60's sent back
by Russian military personnel stationed in the US. The R-1 was the 1st version of
GAZ-64. The R-1's round fenders, deep door openings, body beading, and
headlight buckets look very influenced by the first jeep, Bantam Jeep #1 ~ the
Bantam Pilot Model. For more history of the Russian GAZ Jeeps ~ Click Here.
Meanwhile, back in Toledo, Willys was still trying to build a jeep that would meet
the Army's specs and pass their tests. In early May, Willys accomplished this,
coming in in 4th place, behind Bantam, Ford, and the Russians.
How Many U.S. Companies Built Army Jeeps in WWII?

1. Willys Overland MA, MB JEEP - Willys Scout Car
Willys Overland History Timeline
brief Willys MA overview
2. Ford GP & GPW JEEP
3. The story of the BANTAM BRC JEEP and how the standard WW2
jeep really came into being
4. The Checker Cab Co. BRC Prototype JEEPS (4 known) (Checker
Cab Co Jeep Photo #1) , (Checker Jeep Photo #2)
5. The Chevrolet JEEP Prototypes (2 known)
GPA Amphibious Jeeps built by Ford

Ford built Amphibious GPA's, 'SEEPS', based on the WWII Jeep. (Follow the link above to it's own
webpage)
"Follow Me" Army Jeeps of the AAF

The Army Air Force employed Jeeps painted bright Yellow and/or in a Yellow & Black checkerboard
pattern at air bases. (Follow the link above to it's own webpage)
Willys MBT and Bantam T-3 Jeep 1/4-ton Trailers (K38, Converto
Airborne Dump, M-100, & M416 too)
Is it military or civilian? WWII MBT, or Korean War M-100, or Vietnam era M-416? How to locate Jeep
Trailer Serial Numbers. (Follow the link above to it's own webpage)
One Method of Military Jeep Disposal After World War Two

At the end of the war, were jeeps just abandoned? (Follow the link above to it's own webpage)
Army Surplus Jeep in a Crate for $50?

Can you really get a Military Jeep Brand New in a Crate, packed in grease / cosmoline? Read
here for details on the Jeeps in a Crate: the TUPs and SUPs.
What exactly is "Cosmolene" anyway?

Read here the details on Jeep parts and other WWII Army Navy Surplus parts packed in
Cosmoline. < Previous Like Easy Surf Historical War & Heritage
6 di 33 24/05/2013 17:27
What was it like buying Army Surplus and Military Vehicles ~

Looking Back
What was it like buying Army Surplus Vehicles and parts 20-30 years ago? It was better ;-)
Click here for photos & details on what it used to be like at Army / Navy Surplus Stores and
Military Vehicle Truck Parts Dealers' Warehouses.
Where can I buy a WW2 Jeep? Do you have a WWII Jeep for
sale?
Your best bet is looking in the Recycler, Thrifty Nickel, Truck Trader type classified ads.
Even eBay is a good source. Here are 2 links for eBay WWII jeeps for sale. eBay Jeep Search #1 eBay
Jeep Search #2
Also, definitely put up a FREE WANT AD on my website Bulletin Boards.
Several vehicles have traded hands over the years this way.
That link is http://wwiijeepparts.com/WWIIJeepForums.html
Make sure you leave your contact info, what years are you looking for, and a price range.
Also, check the ARCHIVES section of my web site. All the ads on the Bulletin Board Forum get archived.
Since the Message Boards drop the posts after 60 days, the archives will have all the Jeep For Sale ads that
are over 60 days old. They are most often still good ads, since many people do not want to drive farther
than 150 miles to look at a jeep.
Also make sure you get your hands on the books 'All American Wonder' Vol. 1 & Vol. 2 by Ray Cowdery.
They are the restorer's bible.
They are like an encyclopedia set, you HAVE to get both.
I do not normally have jeeps for sale. I am strictly a parts supplier. The jeeps I have I plan on keeping.
Good hunting.
How can I tell a Military Jeep Engine from a Civilian Engine?

The quickest way to tell the difference between a civilian engine block and a military engine block I have
found is the water pump boss on the block.
First what are the dimensions of the machined boss ABOVE the water pump? Are there any #'s stamped
there?
If it looks like the boss is about 2" across then it is probably a WWII military block. (Many times it has a
single letter stamped on it)
WWII Military: flat spot is about 1/2" x 2" across. See #3 in this Photo of a WWII Military Block.
Civilian: flat spot is about 1/2" x 4" across.
This long flat spot is also where they usually stamped the engine serial # on civilian motors.
This is the sure fire way to tell it is a WWII block even when #'s are ground off.
Military Engine Blocks: The engine serial number was located on the top front passenger side of the
engine block behind the oil filter on a machined boss. See previous question Re: Locating Serial Numbers
for Photos.
Civilian Engine Blocks: The engine serial number was located at the front of the engine block on the
water pump boss.
Cast Numbers on engine;

Engine block #638632 is the correct number for a MB engine block.
The assembly date (month, day, and year of production) can be found stamped on the pan surface at rear
main bearing cap. < Previous Like Easy Surf Historical War & Heritage
7 di 33 24/05/2013 17:27
Cylinder head #639660 would be the head number for a MB engine.

It appears that WILLYS in raised letters was added to cylinder heads in mid 1943, and JEEP was added in
mid 1944.
At engine # MB288835 the cylinder head bolts/cap screws were changed to studs and nuts.
The Go Devil 134.2 Jeep Engine

The power and torque of the L-Head engine is one of the main reasons why Willys won the contract with
the War Department beating out the Bantam BRC40 and the Ford GP. The Willys GO Devil engine
out-performed the engines used in the Ford and Bantam prototype jeeps. The L-Head engines uses a cast
iron block and cylinder head with 3 main bearings and mechanical lifters. The engine is called an L-Head
is because the valves for the intake and exhaust are in the block. (Most engines have the valves in the
head). This design gave Willys the advantage of having a relatively lower profile than other engines. Part
of the War Dept.'s specifications called for the vehicle to have a low silhouette to avoid detection by the
enemy. The "Go Devil" engine earned its fame in the WWII ARMY MB. The L-Head continued to be
used by Willys Overland in the post World War Two jeeps: CJ-2A, Willys Wagon, Willys Pickup, CJ-3A,
M38, and DJ-3A The MB used a Carter W-O carburetor, while the civilian models used the Carter YF
carb. They are very similar to each other. The military engines used a roughly cast crankshaft, (since it's
official life expectancy in combat was only 3 months, why expend the extra time, materials, and
machining), while post war engines had nicely balanced crankshafts with bolt on counter weights. The
performance specifications are slightly different between civilian and military motors presumably due to
carburetor, crankshafts, and compression differences between the engines. The L-Head used in 1945-1950
CJ-2A's and the 1949-1950 CJ-3A's are rated the same
The Jeep Drive Train

The MA, MB, and GPW used the L-head 134.2 cubic inch Inline 4 cylinder "Go Devil" engine, T-84 3
Speed manual transmission, Dana 18 two speed transfer case, Dana 25 front axle, and Dana 23-2 rear axle
turning 6:00 x 16 tube tires mounted on 16 inch rims. Firing order is the same as the engine size. 1-3-4-2.
What is the shifting pattern for the WWII Jeep? My data plate is
missing.
See original transmission, transfercase shift patterns and operating speeds in this photo of WWII Jeep
glove box data plates.
Transmission
top left = reverse
bottom left = 1st
center = neutral
top right = 2nd
bottom right = 3rd
Transfer Case - left lever

top = 4wd out (not engaged)
bottom = 4wd in (engaged)
Transfer Case - right lever

top = low range gears
middle = neutral
bottom = hi gear range

8 di 33 24/05/2013 17:27
So you bought your first jeep and want to restore it. Now what?
Well congratulations on getting your first Army Jeep!
I'll bet you are eager to get started on it right away. Being excited to start your new, fun project is great!
But before you start dilling new holes or welding old holes closed or tossing odd-ball parts away, do your
homework first!
Jumping into a new project with both feet is admirable because it shows commitment, but remember
things do not always go as planned.
The first and most important thing you can do - I mean it - (it will save you time, and lots of money by not
buying the wrong parts) is get the 2 books "ALL American Wonder Vol. #1 & Vol. #2."
You need both because they are like an encyclopedia - A-M, N-Z, there is no overlap.
Then lock yourself in a room for 5 hours and read them cover-to-cover a couple of times.
When done - you'll know just about as much as I know. It is the restorer’s bible.
The books are available on ebay, amazon.com and many other places at about $23 each.
It’s the best $$ you can spend. When I was starting out 19 years ago I must of spent several $100 buying
the wrong stuff - that was before the books came out. LOL
Reading all the pages on Jeep History, and Tools, and the Archives on my web site should help you and
keep you busy as well.
Check the “what's new” page on my web site. It hosts a record of every addition and update I make to the
web site.
Where to start spending $$? Well keep in mind that everyday trade schools graduate mechanics and
bodymen. You can always get your jeep repaired. Getting parts? Well that's another story. The jeep parts
are not always going to be available. I say get the parts 1st, repair it later.
Help! Calif. DMV wants me to pay back fees on the jeep I just
bought!
"The Jeep I just bought hasn't been registered in Calif. for several years, and DMV wants me to pay 8
years of fees, plus an additional penalty fee."
All car & jeep collectors should read this information regarding DMV fees
A little publicized fact is that in California, car collectors are EXEMPT from having to pay back
registration fees and non-op fees. To qualify for a waiver, go to your DMV office and you will need to fill
out a 'Statement of Facts' form. On it, state that there was a reason for non-reg/late reg., (ex 1. you were
unable to locate parts to restore car/keep the car running, but have now located the parts, ex 2. the previous
owner was unable to locate parts to keep it running and you have just purchased the vehicle to restore it ),
and you are exempt because you are a car collector. The lower level window clerk might say 'no', but ask
for a supervisor. I learned about this in the newsletter from the antique jeep club I belong to. I have used it
to save fee's on about 9 occasions with my jeeps & trailers.
This applies to your own jeeps which you are late on, as well as new purchases where the previous owner
was delinquent.
Happy Restoring - Brian
SPECIAL LAWS for Titling and Registering your MV!

Several states have granted historical military vehicle owners special privileges regarding titling and
registering their MV as both an antique and military vehicle.
Colorado: The Colorado Historic Military Vehicle License Plate Bill is now law. On 8/11/10 the new
law took effect . The legislation <deletes the requirement
Previous Like forEasy
historic
Surfmilitary vehicles
Historical Warto&display state
Heritage
issued license plates and allows for the vehicles to utilize
sites Off unit and organizational
Suprise Me! Next >bumper registration
9 di 33 24/05/2013 17:27
numbers and markings as they did in active service. Military Vehicle owners may now remove their
license plates and legally drive without them. Insurance requirements, titling, and registration rules have
not changed. Under the new Bill, owners of Military Vehicles must keep their license plates in the vehicle
and show them to a law enforcement officer if requested along with their valid/current registration and
proof of insurance. It is strongly recommend that collectors/owners of a Military Vehicle print out the two
documents below and keep them in their Military Vehicle. The Fiscal Note document in particular will
provide good information to the law enforcement officer if you are ever pulled over for not having plates.
Many law enforcement officers will not be aware of this new law.
Please print out the following sections (PDF files) and keep them in your vehicle!!
Sections 42-1-102 and 42-3-202.
Indiana: Information Maintained by the Office of Code Revision Indiana Legislative

Services Agency 03/26/2002 01:19:37 PM EST IC 9-18-14
Chapter 14. Military Vehicle Registration IC 9-18-14-1
Sec. 1. A person who owns a military vehicle may register the military vehicle
under this chapter instead of registering for a license plate issued for:
(1) a vehicle under IC 9-18-2; or
(2) an antique motor vehicle under IC 9-18-12.
As added by P.L.2-1991, SEC.6. IC 9-18-14-2
Sec. 2. If a person who owns a military vehicle registers the military vehicle
under this chapter, the registration of the military vehicle is for the life of the
military vehicle.
Sec. 3. If a person who owns a military vehicle registers the military vehicle
under this chapter the:
(1) bureau shall not issue a license plate for the military vehicle;
and
(2) bureau shall authorize as a registration number the military
vehicle identification number stenciled on the military vehicle in white or yellow
letters and numbers in accordance with all pertinent military regulations.
Sec. 4. The bureau shall adopt a:
(1) registration form; and
(2) certificate of registration;
to implement this chapter. As added by P.L.2-1991, SEC.6. IC
9-18-14-5
Sec. 5. The bureau shall adopt rules under IC 4-22-2 to implement this chapter. As
added by P.L.2-1991, SEC.6.
Illinois: Other people inform me that Illinois has similar special registration laws.
Louisiana has a special titling law for antique military vehicles whereby the military vehicle numbers
stenciled on the vehicle become the license "plate" for purposes of putting the vehicle on the road.
Louisiana Law states that the DMV must provide special license plates for antique vehicles, street rods,
and military vehicles. One provision of this statute provides that the military vehicle identification
number stenciled on the vehicle can be used in lieu of one of these specialized license plates. One
"military vehicle identification number" is the unique number assigned to the vehicle by the military, (also
called the ‘USA Number’), which is typically stenciled on both sides of the hood). The USA number is
assigned when the vehicle is received from the manufacturer, and stays with the truck throughout it's
military service (or at least it is supposed to - vehicles were often stolen from other units and the USA
numbers quickly changed by repainting them). Another possibly unique military vehicle number are the
military vehicle numbers stenciled on the front & rear bumpers of the vehicle. These bumper 'Unit
Numbers' are also used by the military to specifically identify each vehicle (by unit and number). The
military uses the USA number as the unique vehicle ID, regardless of what unit it is assigned to. The
bumper 'Unit' numbers are assigned by the unit the vehicle is assigned to. This means that during the
military service life of the vehicle it could have several different 'unit' numbers as the vehicle is passed
from unit to unit, or if the vehicles parade line up position
< Previous is changed
Like Easy at the discretion
Surf Historical War & of Heritage
the unit
commander. sites Off Suprise Me! Next >
10 di 33 24/05/2013 17:27
The text of the specific Louisiana law is below:

C. In lieu of the license plates provided in Subsections A and B of this Section, the
secretary shall authorize the use of the military vehicle identification number
stenciled on the vehicle in white or yellow letters and numbers in accordance with
military regulations.
Registering your vehicle in Louisiana requires a physical inspection of the vehicle by a state trooper prior
to obtaining title and registration. Paying a $25 fee for the title and registration. Other pluses; it never
expires: and you only have to pay a $3 fee to transfer it to the new owner of the vehicle if you sell it.
Oklahoma Statutes as Section 1136.2 of Title 47, unless there is created a

duplication in numbering, reads as follows:
A. Except as provided in this section, former military vehicles shall be exempt from
the provisions of the Oklahoma Vehicle License Act if:
1. The former military vehicle is used only for exhibitions, club activities,
parades, and other functions of public interest and will not be used for
regular transportation; and
2. The owner of the former military vehicle files with the Oklahoma tax
Commission or a motor license agent a sworn affidavit, signed by the owner,
stating that the vehicle is a former military vehicle and will be used solely
for the purposes listed in paragraph 1 of this subsection.
B. Upon each former military vehicle, the annual license fee shall be Twenty Dollars
($20.00). Upon initial registration, the owner shall make application for the flat
license fee which application shall include the year of manufacture and a description
of the vehicle containing information as
C. A former military vehicle shall not be required to display a license plate if

current proof of registration for the vehicle, in a form prescribed by the Commission,
is carried in the vehicle. In addition, the vehicle shall display in a prominent
location on the vehicle a registration mark prescribed by the Commission. The
Commission shall allow the use of a unique identification mark similar to the mark
assigned that vehicle by the branch of the armed forces in which the vehicle was used.
If such a mark is not used, the Commission shall designate a registration mark
consisting of numbers, letters, or numbers and letters in combination at least two (2)
inches in height. To the extent possible, the location and design of the registration
mark shall conform to the official military design and markings of the vehicle.
D. A certificate if title shall be issued for a former military vehicle, and the
applicable fees for the issuance of a certificate of title as provided pursuant to the
Oklahoma Vehicle License and Registration Act shall apply.
E. All penalties pursuant to the Oklahoma Vehicle License and Registration Act relating
to the failure to register a vehicle shall apply to this section if the former military
vehicle is not properly registered or is used in a manner which violates the provisions
of paragraph 1 or 2 of subsection A of this section.
F. As used in this section, "former military vehicle" means a vehicle which has been,
but no longer is, used by the armed forces of a national government and which displays
markings indicating it was a military vehicle.
It looks like the Oklahoma law was patterned after the Texas law, and became effective a year or two after
the Texas law.
Texas has a similar that allows the hood registration numbers to be used in lieu of a license plate. In
Texas, you can register your MV as a 'Former Military Vehicle', and as such, you don't need a license
plate, inspection sticker, or registration sticker. Texas law provides for issuance of a metal registration
plate, or the owner of the 'Historic Military Vehicle' can submit to the DMV, pending approval, a "military
style" number to be painted on the hood or other location
< Previous Like as would
Easy beHistorical
Surf correct (2"War
characters required). A
& Heritage
photo of the vehicle with the desired number painted on theSuprise
sites Off vehicle Me!
is to beNext
submitted
> prior to registration
11 di 33 24/05/2013 17:27
approval. The Texas DMV might ask you to utilize the last 5 or 6 digits of the vehicles VIN in the number
you choose to paint on. They may also ask you to stamp the chosen number into the bumpers as a more
permanent form of ID. This Hood or Bumper number becomes the 'tag' number of the vehicle. For
example: The last 6 digits of the hood number are the official 'plate' for registration & identification
purposes.
Texas DMV may also give you a small 2x2" metal tag, to be carried in the MV at all times, but does not
need to be attached to the vehicle.
502.275 Requirement to display registration.
502.275k says a former military vehicle operated on a public highway is not
required to display license plates or registration if proof of current registration for
the vehicle in the form prescribed by the department is carried in the vehicle and the
vehicle displays in a prominent location of the vehicle a registration mark prescribed
by the department.
502.275l says the department shall allow the use of a unique identification mark on
a former military vehicle that is similar to the mark assigned by the armed forces in
which the vehicle was used. If such a mark is not used, the department shall designate
a registration mark for the vehicle. A registration mark designated by the department
must consist of numbers or letters or both numbers and letters that are at least two
inches high.
502.275m says to the extent possible the location and design of a registration mark
for a former military vehicle registered under this section must conform to the
vehicle's official military design and markings. In this section, "former military
vehicle" means a vehicle including a trailer, regardless of the vehicle's size, weight,
or year of manufacture that was manufactured for use in any country's military forces
and is maintained to accurately represent its military design and markings.
In addition, in Texas, "former military vehicles" are exempt from vehicle emission testing, and can be
exempted from the required liability insurance laws in the State.
The Texas law became effective September 1, 1995 thanks to owners of Historic Military Vehicles who
wrote the law, then found sponsorship in the legislature, and with a few minor changes got the law passed.
So if you live in TX, LA, OK, IN, or IL, be sure to research what special options are available to you. If
you don’t live in one of those states, write your congressmen, governor and state DMV office and tell
them you want what automobile collecting Americans in other states have.
Insurance Issues for Military Vehicles

Iinsurance companies can be very bureaucratic. They don't have catagories for MV's and don't understand
why anyone would want one. If it doesn't fit nicely into their predetermind vahicle catagories, they they
usually don't want anything to do with it. All they see is risk. When dealing with a big insurance
company, talk in generalities. Don't use specific M-series numbers, they won't be on their books. Call a
truck a 'pick up'. MB, GPW, M38 probablly won't come up either, so try 'Jeep Universal', or 'Open Body'.
The less detailed you are, the less leary they will get. Also, I wouldn't mention the matching Trailer,
Machine Gun Mount, Capstan Winch, Red MP light & Siren or other assorted 'unusual' accesories. Insure
the trailer as a separate entity later. Leave out the Rubicon run, the swimming voyage in the DUKW, and
the re-enactment battles your participate in. Keep it simple, but honest. An insurance company can refuse
to pay you after a crash if they can show that you lied on your application. Don't lie, but don't run and tell
them every little detail either.
If you won't be using your Jeep for everyday driving, you can save a lot of money and hassel by getting
Antique Automobile Insurance. It goes well with your Antique Vehicle Registration. Both have
restrictions, but both can save you money. Usually the use of your vehicle must be limited to club events,
displays, and/or parades or other low-mileage events. You must also qualify by age of the vehicle.Usually
it is only open to vehicles 25 years old or older.
Here are some companies that specialize in antique vehicle insurance;
J.C. Taylor Antique Auto Insurance Agency Inc., 320
< Previous S. 69th
Like EasyStreet,
SurfUpper Darby,
Historical PA&
War 19082.
Heritage
1-800-345-8290 http://jctaylor.com/ sites Off Suprise Me! Next >
12 di 33 24/05/2013 17:27
Hagerty Insurance Brokerage, Traverse City, Michigan. 1-616-947-6868 & 1-800-922-4050

http://www.hagerty.com/
Tri-State Insurance Company. 1 Roundwind Road, Luverne, MN 56156-0500. 1-800-603-3330
http://www.tsicollectorcar.com (CO IA IL IN KS MN MO ND NE OH SD WI)
Click Here for a list of UK insurance brokers who will work with UK Military Vehicle owners.
The Jeep is driveable - What can I do with it?

Owning a restored Army Jeep or other Military Vehicle allows you to get involved in many social
activities such as;
Parades, Air Shows, Museum Events, Re-enactments, Tributes, Veterans Groups, Jeep Camp Outs, Road
Rallies, Cruise Nights, Historic Districts / Old Towne Days, Military Base Open Houses, Antique Car
Clubs, 4x4 Clubs. It's Fun for the whole family. Check out the Customer Photos page for good examples
of the fun awaiting you.
World War Two Jeep Driving Safety Issues

Since our military vehicles, jeeps included, don't drive anywhere near the flow of traffic on today’s
highways, we are in danger from other driver's who aren't living up to their legal responsibility of paying
attention while driving. There are a few things we can do to increase our chances of arriving safely at our
destination.
Increase rear lighting.
We can sure use better rear tailights. We don’t, and should not have to ruin our factory
restored jeeps by throwing away the original blackout lights or drilling into the jeeps metal to
bolt on a horrible aftermarket tail, turn signal, or marker light. We can however still make use
of the added safety of having bigger, brighter and more lights on our vehicles.
Utilize some ingenuity on your own and using a 2x4 piece of wood, or some PVC sprinkler
tubing, or metal plate, or combinations thereof fabricate a separate lighting set up for the rear,
or both front & rear of your vehicle. Use modern civilian lights affixed to your assembly.
Mount them permanently to your bracket assembly contraption. Have the contraption itself be
a temporary thing. Make it so it lays or quickly attaches to the vehicle using wing nuts &
bolts, or uses clamps of some type (C clamps, vise grips, etc.).
Some 'light and clamp assemblies' you modify could attach directly to the vehicles bumpettes
or tailgate.
For electrical power – quick and fast – make the additional lights get their power from the
jeep’s trailer socket. Most MV's have a trailer plug, so use it. Buy a spare WWII trailer socket
(or other M-series type that matches your post war MV) and have all the additional lights’
wiring terminate there.
Now when you are traveling you will have bright and safe lighting. When you get to a show
take them off and you are back to original WWII factory configuration.
Safety Placards and Triangles
Recommended
Go To My Jeep Gift Items For Sale web page, and purchase Jeep size Safety Orange
Reflector Triangles. They fit perfectly on rear Jerry Cans & Spare Tires, and store in the
< Previous
Rear tool box of your WWII Jeep Like Easy Surf Historical War & Heritage
13 di 33 24/05/2013 17:27
Cheap
Go to Staples or other office supply store and buy some sheets of fluorescent
safety orange paper in heavy card stock. Next either:
Grab some electrical tape and create the block letters “Max 55 MPH” in
electrical tape on the cardstock. or;
Go home and on the computer, create your sign that says ““Max 55 MPH”
and print it on your card stock.
Using boxing tape, tape it to the rear of your vehicle somewhere (canvas? You
don’t want to peel your paint, but your paint shouldn’t peel if it was put on
correctly – unless it is new paint)
Expensive
1. Get some metal sheeting.
2. Spray paint it fluorescent safety orange.
3. Using your leftover stencils from your hood & bumper markings, spray the letters
“Max 55 MPH” in black paint.
4. These metal placards can be attached to a clamp just as the lights are. These can
be clamped to some part of the rear of the vehicle.
Towing your restored WW2 jeep

I see many, many WWII jeeps towed behind motorhomes. If it were me, I would...
1) Make sure I had non-original front locking hubs.

2) Tie off both transmission AND transfer case cases in Neutral
3) Tie off steering wheel with about 2 inches of play
4) MAKE POSITIVELY SURE WINDSHIELD IS DOWN & latched
5) Back the jeep onto the dolly and tow it backwards.
This way the only moving parts on the jeep are the front tires, front wheels & hubs, and front wheel
bearings. The more moving parts, the more wear & tear.
Locking hubs, while not original, keep the wheel rotation from turning anything else other than the wheel
bearings. Without the locking/unlocking hubs, the front axleshafts will turn – more wear & tear – and this
in turn causes the front driveshaft and parts inside the transfercase to turn and to churn the gear oil, more
heat and wear & tear then needed.
Not tying off the transmission & transfer case levers is needed because they could vibrate or bounce back
into gear, resulting in wear, tear, friction, and heat.
Not tying up the steering wheel will allow the vehicle to wander and possible lock up with the wheels
maxed out in one corner direction resulting in dragging and scuffing tires horribly.
Windshields should ALWAYS be folded flat when towed any distance. The wind gusts will bend and warp
the windshield frame. Even a little bit of bend in the lower windshield arm will result in the top of the
windshield frame being moved inches back from where it is designed to be. If your windshield isn’t where
the factory spec’s say it should be, your canvas jeep top won’t fit. Be very careful about bending your
windshield frame.
If you don’t put the jeep on the dolly backwards, then it is pointless to install the locking hubs. If you are
going to tow it face forwards (on a dolly), then you really should crawl under jeep and drop the rear
< Previous
driveshaft AT THE REAR DIFFERENTIAL. Like Easy Surf Historical War & Heritage
14 di 33 24/05/2013 17:27
Another way is to remove both rear axles shafts, and cap the openings, so that dirt and water doesn't get
inside.
Flat towing the jeep behind a motorhome, is less desirable, locking hubs at the front, and a dropped rear
driveshaft (or removed & capped rear axleshafts) are required.
Another area of concern should be damage to paint. Bugs, road debris, rock chips, squashed bottles &
cans, and other bits on the roadway all can get kicked up by the towing vehicle and impact on your jeeps
paint. Some people wrap the forward facing part of their jeep in a tarp. This idea sounds good, but I see
more damage from the wind buffeting the tarp and wearing down the paint like sandpaper scrubbing the
paint. Wrap the section of jeep with a soft clean blanket, and then tarping the jeep should help prevent a lot
of that if done correctly. The best solution is to make a plywood shield that mounts just in front of the jeep
to deflect the bad stuff.
Where can I look up where my military jeep was used in WWII?

One of the most commonly asked questions I get from new WWII Jeep owners is "Where can I look up
where my military jeep was stationed though out WWII?"
The answer is: "No, there isn't. Sorry". No records were kept by the military on vehicle movements based
on vehicle serial #’s, nor the hood registration #'s. Some military jeeps can be found to have unit #'s still
legible under the many layers of paint on the front bumpers or rear bumperettes. A military unit’s history
can be traced this way, and it can be inferred that the jeep went along with the unit. One collector / restorer
actually found a ship’s USS name stenciled on the windshield, and after contacting the veterans group for
that ship, found a few sailors who remember having that jeep lashed down on the deck. One vet even sent
a photo of the ship and the jeep can be seen on the deck in the photograph (It’s a 1950's picture though).
It’s a 1 in a 10,000 occurrence to find anything relating to the average jeep though.
Although you can't determine where you Jeep was actually used in WWII, many people desire to portray
their jeep having been at a certain place or in a certain battle. If you research what Divisions were in what
battle, you can use the folowing charts to determine what associated units were attached to that Division.
This will help you layout the bumper marking scheme for your restored jeep.
Infantry Divisions
Armored Divisions
Airborne Divisions
1st Cavalry Division
Where do I find my WW2 Jeeps Serial Numbers?

All MB's and GPW's had serial #'s in 3 places. See Also The Jeep Serial Number Archive Webpage.
THE DATA PLATES ON THE GLOVE BOX DOOR

The middle of the 3 plates on the glove box door (or dashboard on the early slat grill MB's,
since Slatgrill MB's didn't have glove boxes) in front of the passenger is the plate with the
serial number on it. These plates are often missing. The Nomenclature (center) plate has the
vehicle identification information including; the Manufacturer (Willys or Ford), the Model
(MB or GPW), the Serial Number, and the Date of Delivery (Date of Manufacture). These
Data Plates were made out of Brass, Pot Metal, Steel, and Aluminum. Be very careful
removing paint or straightening dents on your data plates because valuable information about
your Jeep can easily be destroyed in the process.
Early plates were Brass, were 3 pc. set,Like
< Previous and were
Easymarked Quartermaster
Surf Historical WarCorps.
& Heritage
The data plates of some of the early quartermaster
sites procured
Off Suprise Me! Willys
Next MB
> jeeps have "QMC"
15 di 33 24/05/2013 17:27
stamped on the pad immediately after 'Make and Model: Willys MB'.
Mid-war Jeeps were made of any combination of metals; Brass, Aluminum, Steel, Pot Metal
in a 3 pc. set, marked Ordnance Department.
Sometime in 1944, a 4th data plate was added to the set. The new plate was called the
'Shipping Plate' because it contained information needed to help boat & aircraft loaders plan
for shipping jeeps and landing jeeps on beach head battlefronts. They were still made of any
combination of metals; Brass, Aluminum, Steel, Pot Metal and marked Ordnance Dept.
The data plates of some of the later ordnance department procured Willys MB jeeps have
"ORD" stamped on the pad immediately after 'Make and Model Willys MB'.
Some later Willys MB data plates are also stamped with an ordnance dept. 'Crossed Canons'
stamp.
No Ford GPW data plates are stamped with an ordnance dept. 'Crossed Canons' stamp, only
Willys were.
Photo of Early (1942) Ford GPW Jeep Quartermaster Corps 3 pc Brass Data Plate set.
Photo showing faded original Early Ford GPW Brass Data Plates.
Photo of Late Ford GPW Jeep Ordnance Department 3 pc Data Plate set on glove box door.
Photo of Late Willys MB Ordnance Dept. 3 piece Aluminum Data Plate set.
Photo of Late (1945) Ford GPW Ordnance Department 4 pc Steel Data Plate set.
THE LEFT FRONT FRAME RAIL
All World War Two Military Jeeps had their Serial Number stamped on the front of the jeep
on the left-side frame rail behind the front bumper on driver’s side. The exact manner &
location differed between a Willys Overland MB's and Ford's GPW Jeep.
The Willys MB JEEP
The Willys MB jeep used a small aluminum or pot metal tag that was riveted with 2
rivets to the inside frame horn on the frame box reinforcement where the front most leaf
spring shackle mounts. Ford jeeps did not have this 'box'. Photograph of Early Willys
MB Small Frame Data Plate and same area on a Ford GPW. The Willys Frame Tags
came in two sizes. The Early style was small and only contained the serial #. The Late
style was larger and contained text as well as the serial #. The later tags had "Jeep"
stamped on them in addition to the serial number. Photograph of Late Willys MB Large
Frame Data Plate. This tag is stamped with the serial number as "M B # # # # # #"
(always 6 digits total after the MB). To locate the Willys tag, look on the inside of the
left (driver's side) frame rail (frame horn) just behind the bumper, on the frame box
reinforcement where the front leaf spring shackle mounts to the front frame horn - you
almost have to stick your head in between the radiator grill and the bumper and then
turn your head to driver's side to see the small tag riveted to the reinforcement plate that
the leaf spring shackle attaches to. There, should be found the little metal (zinc) tag held
in place with two small twist rivets. The serial number on this tag should match the
serial number on your jeeps glove box data plates, but it will not match the Willys MB
engine serial number on toe board gusset body number.
The Ford GPW JEEP
The Ford GPW jeep had it's serial number stamped into the frame itself, on the top of
the left frame rail. The numbers can be from 1 to 6 digits long and the sequence starts
and ends with a 5 pointed star stamped into the frame. The format used on GPWs can
run from "* GPW- # *" to "* GPW- # # # # # # *". The serial number is normally
found stamped on top of the frame between the front left shock absorber tower mount
and the motor mount. To find the Ford type - open the hood, look on top of driver’s side
frame rail - stamped directly into the top of the frame - the serial number is usually
found between shock mount & motor mount.* Photograph of Ford GPW Jeep Frame
Serial Number < stamped
Previousinto topLike
of driver's
Easy side frame
Surf rail. When
Historical WarI go looking for serial
& Heritage
#s, I use a propane torch and a small
sites OffwireSuprise
brush (toothbrush
Me! Nextsize).
> These items are the
16 di 33 24/05/2013 17:27
best I know of to help in locating the Ford GPW serial numbers because there is usually
some grease, rust, dirt, and old paint to deal with. Hit the area with the torch until the
paint bubbles. Then scrub with the brush. WARNING: The hot melted paint will fall
all over you, so wear old clothes and eye protection!! Re-apply the heat and scrub till
you get to bright shiny metal, and hopefully a serial number. Sometimes the stars are
very faint, in fact, the whole stamping can be very light, so some care and good lighting
will be required to uncover it. This serial number should match the glove box data plate
serial number. *While the GPW serial number is normally visible in the engine
compartment just forward of the engine mount bracket, examples exist where the Serial
No. is located so far forward as to be stamped on the front bumper gusset (or area
around it), OR as far back as where the body tub gusset mounts to the frame. Also, the
GPW serial number seems to have been stamped while the chassis was in motion on the
assembly line, and more often than not, the GPW Frame serial numbers are stamped
crooked, off center, at angles, and at varying depths.
THE JEEP ENGINE BLOCK
WWII Jeep engines also had a serial number stamped into a rounded boss on the passenger
side of the engine block, behind the oil filter canister. It is on the right side of the engine, near
the front of the block, just below the cylinder head, on a machined pad that is directly behind
the oil filter and it is usually covered with grease, grime, and dirt.
The Ford GPW JEEP Engine Serial Number
The Ford engine serial number is the jeep serial #, (as long as the engine hasn’t been
replaced). The numbers can be from 1 to 6 digits long and the sequence usually starts
and ends with a 5 pointed star that is stamped into the boss. The format used on GPWs
can run from "* GPW- # *" to "* GPW- # # # # # # *". The Ford engine serial
number is the jeep serial #, so as long as the engine hasn't been replaced, the GPW
engine serial number should exactly match both the GPW data plate serial number and
the GPW frame serial number.
Photograph of Ford GPW Jeep Engine Serial Number. (Oil Filter housing has been
removed).
The Willys MB JEEP Engine Serial Number
Willys jeep engine serial numbers are of marginal help. The Willys engine serial
numbers do NOT match the jeep's data plate serial numbers, nor the frame serial
numbers, even if it is the original factory installed engine that is still in the vehicle. This
is because Willys engines were taken out of the production line as needed and put into
portable power generators, searchlight units, and welders. This meant that gap between
the serial number of the engines and the serial number of the jeeps they went into got
farther and farther apart as time progressed because more and more engines were taken
off the jeep line and put into something else other than a jeep. The engine boss or pad is
stamped with the serial number as "M B # # # # # #" (always 6 digits total after the
MB).
Photograph of Willys MB Jeep Engine Serial Number. (Oil Filter housing in place).
BODY TUB SERIAL NUMBERS
The Willys MB JEEP
Willys MB body tubs are stamped with a serial number on the driver's side toe board
gusset. This large triangular brace is welded on the body tub inside the engine
compartment on the lower portion of the firewall. The body tub serial number stamping
is in a 6 digit format in rather large size characters. The Body Tub Serial Number does
not match the data plate serial number, the frame serial number, or the engine serial
number. It is so far of little to no use in determining your jeeps real serial number.
The Ford GPW JEEP < Previous Like Easy Surf Historical War & Heritage
The GPW bodies built by Ford sitesin house did not have
Off Suprise Me! a body
Nexttub
> serial number stamped
17 di 33 24/05/2013 17:27
into the toe board gusset.

The GPW bodies built by American Central Manufacturing (ACM Type 2 body) for
Ford starting at the end of 1943 did have a body tub serial number stamped into them.
These ACM bodies built for Ford are stamped with a serial number on the driver's side
toe board gusset. This large triangular brace is welded on the body tub inside the engine
compartment on the lower portion of the firewall. The body tub serial number stamping
is in a 6 digit format in rather large size characters. The Body Tub Serial Number does
not match the data plate serial number, the frame serial number, or the engine serial
number. It is so far of little to no use in determining your jeeps real serial number. (See
similar information on the willys civilian jeeps)
What are WWII Army Jeep Hood Registration Numbers?

WWII Military jeeps had Registration Numbers also commonly called hood numbers assigned to them.
On Military Vehicles these numbers took the place of and performed the same function as license plates do
on civilian vehicles. They are a unique identifier of the vehicles owned by the various US Military
branches. How were these numbers assigned? Hood Registration Numbers were assigned by the U.S.
military accounting/procurement dept. The military got an authorization to purchase a specific number of
jeeps, say 40,000 jeeps for example, so in the contract the military assigned a block of 40,000 numbers to
the vehicles produced under that contract. Willys or Ford was then given the contract, and the jeeps were
stenciled with a hood number as they rolled out the door at the end of the assembly line at the factory. So
it was all specified in the contract that they would have an assigned block of numbers, but there isn't a
perfect correlation between the hood number & the serial number because the numbers did not go
hand-in-hand. For example the jeeps might have been parked left to right in numerical order, but the men
doing the hood registration number painting might have painted jeeps from the front jeep to the jeep
behind it progressing till they reached the last jeep in a column, then they would move to the next row and
start painting towards the front. This would have an end result of numbers being assigned randomly, but it
close proximity to their serial numbers. This allows for estimations of a jeeps hood number and vice versa
for a jeeps serial number when one is known. It's close, but not exact. The only thing for sure is that all
Army Jeep hood numbers start with a "20" followed by 6 digits (exception below). The "20" indicates it's
weight/model classification as a quarter-ton jeep (G-503 1/4 ton Reconnaissance Vehicle). The USN (and
USMC through the US Navy Dept.) purchased jeeps under their own US Navy contracts. These US Navy
contracts did not follow the same "20" + 6 digit (8 digits total) hood numbering system that the US Army
used on their Jeeps. The "Exception" being that the Very Early Production Jeeps had a "W" prefix - for
War Department - and a 7 digit registration number. This still resulted in 8 characters being used, and the
first digits were still "20". Sometimes you will see an "S" stenciled / painted near the hood registration
number. The "S" is supposed to be on the cowl of the jeep, but many times someone was sloppy in where
it got applied. The "S" stands for "SHIELDED", meaning the jeep or other vehicle had been produced with
electrical noise reducing ground bond straps, capacitors, and other items to make it generate less static
electrical noise pops and whistles that would interfere with radio transmissions. It meant that the jeep was
ok to be outfitted with a radio or to operate the jeep next to other radio equipped vehicles.
Where & How do I find Hood Registration Numbers on WW2

Jeeps?
All MB's and GPW's had serial #'s in 2 places - on both Driver & Passenger side of the Hood. On Very
Early Production jeeps, the Registration number was also found on the rear body panel, where the gas can
goes on later jeeps. When I go looking for Hood Registration #s, I use a propane torch and a small wire
brush (toothbrush size). These items are the best I know of to help in locating the Jeep & Trailer
< Previous
Registration (Hood) Numbers because Likesome
there is usually Easy Surfrust,
grease, Historical
dirt, andWar & Heritage
several layers of old
18 di 33 24/05/2013 17:27
paint to deal with. Hit the area with the torch until the top layer of paint starts to develop paint bubbles.
Then scrub with the brush. WARNING: The hot melted paint can flick and land all over you, so wear old
clothes and eye protection!! Re-apply the heat and scrub till you remove the civilian paint layers. The
Factory OD & White/Blue Drab Numbers are usually very well applied to the paint and with care most if
not all of the overcoats of paint on the jeep will flake or peel off revealing most if not all of the Hood
Registration Number.
Can you estimate my WWII Army Jeep's Hood Registration

Numbers?
Yes, for jeeps where we know what the registration #'s were that were assigned to the contracts we can
estimate what it MIGHT be. This link will take you to The WWII Jeep Hood Registration Number
Generator that will estimate an approximate Hood Registration Number for most World War Two Jeeps
including the Willys MA, Willys MB, Ford GP, Ford GPW, Bantam BRC-40 model jeeps.
Gasoline Soluble Paint used for Hood Registration Numbers, and

other vehicle markings
Dear Half-Mast,
We’ve had a lot of trouble with gasoline-soluble paint, used to paint the large service command insignia
on administrative vehicles and the national symbol on tactical vehicles. The nomenclature is Paint,
gasoline-soluble, lusterless (paste), white; Fed. Stock No. 52-P-2732. This problem came to a head at
our last inspection by the CG, who was able to wipe the things off by hand. We’ve also found that rain
causes them to run and wash away or fade.
How can we prevent this?
Lt. R. W. G.
Dear Lieutenant,
It’s now okay to use Enamel, synthetic, stenciling, lusterless, white (Fed. Stock No. 52-E-8400-275) for
the star on all motor vehicles assigned to tactical units and AGF installations, and on administrative
vehicles in theaters of operations as directed by the theater commander. Says so in AR 850-5 (15 Feb.
45).
This white enamel should also be used for registration numbers. If yours are still blue, AR 850-5 says
repaint ‘em by 15 Aug. 45.
For any other national symbol, as directed by the Commanding General, ASF, for vehicles assigned to
service command installations, gasoline-soluble paint will still be used. Likewise for unit identification
markings, tactical markings, and weight-class markings - which ain’t necessarily permanent.
Half-Mast
from Army Motors, Vol. 6, No. 5, August 1945
WWII Jeep Paint - There's more than one Olive Drab Paint color
OVERVIEW
The original color paint used on WWII Jeeps was an Olive-Drab (OD) Green. Lusterless Olive Drab paint
had an average life span of 18 months. It was to be repainted after this time with another coat of OD.
19 di 33 24/05/2013 17:27
One thing to note is that WW II Navy jeeps were hardly ever, IF EVER, seen painted navy gray in WW II.
An admiral painted one, and that is about it. The basic navy jeep of WW II was the same Olive Drab (OD)
green as the army jeeps. More about this later.
Many people have been told, wrongly, that there is an ‘Early WWII’, and a different, ‘Late WWII’ OD
paint color. Most often the incorrect info is the early war vehicles should be a lighter OD (more olive in
color) paint, while a darker OD (more green in color) should be on late war vehicles. This early and late
war color difference holds true for canvas web gear that the GI’s carried, but does not hold true for paint
jobs from the factory in WWII. The QMC (Quartermaster Corps) and the ORD (Ordnance Dept.) were in
charge of setting up the specifications for the paint & color, and seeing to it that the manufacturers of the
paint and the vehicles met those specs.
FACTORY Paint
This section is specifically about production paint on vehicles that were produced and delivered to the US
Military in WWII.
Willys and Ford both used the same color OD paint, #319, throughout the entire production from 1941 to
1945. Documentation in the National Archives, Willys Motors, GMC, White, Mack and Ford data and
QMC/ORD publications proves that only one color was used in production. “Lusterless Olive Drab” was
the color used on WWII production vehicles; Jeeps, Dodges, Chevy’s, GMCs, Halftracks, Armored Cars,
Tanks, etc.
Cross References for:

Lusterless Olive Drab,
QMC spec 1-173, ES-474b or ORD ES-680
Arco No. 236-60744
DuPont No. 1070-019
Murphy No. NU-5927
Willey No. 1886
In WWII, the QMC/ORD laid out the exact way to use the Lusterless Olive Drab paint and this included
the proper thinner, primer and metal prep. Government specifications were very strict. QMC and ORD
Inspectors would not accept paint that was not within the specifications that were set down by the agency.
This is fact and research into the QMC files will prove this out. The QMC had a very specific set of
specifications on not just the paint composition, but on the whole painting procedure as well. ES-474,
474a, 474b and the later ES - 680 were the painting specifications, and they included the paint, primer,
thinner, metal prep and application of the paint on production vehicles and on the use of Lusterless Olive
Drab. In fact, the thickness of paint, (and not the number of coats), is also spelled out in the QMC specs.
The thickness specifications were the same all throughout production.
There are very rigid paint mixing and application standards in automotive production painting. A color
pigment specialist was a very high paying job years ago. Many people don’t know how large quantities of
paint are mixed. In factory work, paint is mixed 300 to 500 pounds (or more) of color at one time. Paints
are mixed to a weight formula that is very exact. By using the formulas, you can actually be colorblind and
still mix the pigments to the exact color every time. There are pages and pages of documents and formulas
for paint in the Ford Motor Company Archives. The paint formulas did go through some changes, but the
color was still the same.
Ford, Willys, et al, all used a very controlled environment in their coatings application.
WWII Lusterless Olive Drab MUST be used with the
< Previous proper
Like rust-inhibiting
Easy primer.
Surf Historical War This was spelled out in
& Heritage
the QMC specs. Think Red Oxide Primer. sites Off Suprise Me! Next >
20 di 33 24/05/2013 17:27
Metal prep specs. were changed during the war however. This was because some parts and vehicles,
although well painted, had rust underneath the paint, due to water being absorbed through the porous paint
and reaching the metal underneath. This rusting is usually due to improper metal prep before painting the
item.
Re: Spare Parts

Replacement / Spare parts sometimes had different painting specifications depending on their intended
use. While there is a variation in finishes in spare parts (replacement parts to be exact) most variations are
not so different as to be called another color.
Things to Consider
I have NOT said, "All OD is Lusterless Olive Drab OD".
I have said that ‘Lusterless Olive Drab’ paint and ‘Lusterless Olive Drab #319’ paint were the same color.
I have also stated that only one color of paint was used in WWII in QMC/ORD tactical vehicle
production. I am talking about military vehicles. Paint specifications for items of a non-tactical nature are
not the same as paint specifications for items that are tactical.
There were other Olive Drab paint colors used.

There was a full gloss OD that was used for non-tactical vehicles.
The lanterns, ammo cans, etc may have been painted with Olive Drab #108, which is a ‘gloss’ paint. A
lantern or ammo can is not a vehicle, and is not an item that has to be a camouflage color.
WWII Paint vs. Today's Paint

Contrary to what several paint vendors state, it is incorrect to talk about 'early' and 'late' WWII OD Green.
There was no such thing as "early” or "late" WWII OD paint. All World War Two jeeps (and other WW2
vehicles) used by the US Army were all painted 'Lusterless Olive Drab' Synthetic Enamel. There was
ONLY one WW2 'Lusterless Olive Drab' color used in production for jeeps and tactical vehicles. There
was NO "light" or "dark", nor "early" or "late" Olive Drab color in WWII vehicle production. 'Lusterless
Olive Drab' & "Lusterless Olive Drab, #319" were the exact same color. So if #319 in WWII was the same
color as WWII Lusterless Olive Drab, can the same still be said today? NO! The #319 that is for sale today
is NOT the correct color for the actual WWII Lusterless Olive Drab #319 green synthetic enamel paint.
The color is too light, and not as dark green as the original Lusterless Olive Drab color. I have seen actual
cans of original WWII dated Lusterless Olive Drab #319 green paint. None of the paint offered by any of
the current paint vendors is a correct match for this paint. This is why, when you find NOS parts that are
still in their original WWII OD paint, they do not match the brand new paint that you just bought and are
using to paint your jeep. This is also why when you look at color WWII photographs and WWII film that
show vehicles, they all look much darker and "greener" than the paint that is now available.
Lusterless paint is somewhere between a Flat paint and a Semi-Gloss paint.

Flat Olive Drab paint actually attracts and holds dirt, hand prints, stains, etc.
Factory WW II Jeep paint was an enamel, although lacquer was a very commonly found type of ‘army
surplus’ OD paint after the war.
Field paint was “gasoline soluble", meaning, it came in a concentrated form, and was to be mixed with
gasoline to thin and then be applied.
In post-war paint, the 1st digit denotes the gloss factor of the paint. 2 = Flat. 3 = Lusterless. 4 =
Gloss
#23070 is a post 1945 to mid-1950's Flat Olive Drab. It is a camouflage Green
#33070 is a post 1945 Semi gloss Olive Drab, and it is not the same as WW II Lusterless Olive Drab.
#33070 is somewhat close to WWII, but it is too gray to be a match for WW II Lusterless Olive Drab.
#33070 - 1941-43 (Early WW11 < Previous Like Easy Surf Historical War & Heritage
Darker OD) - FALSE!
21 di 33 24/05/2013 17:27
#319 - 1944-45 (Late WW11 Lighter OD) - FALSE!

#24087 is Mid 1950's to Post Vietnam Flat Olive Drab
#34087 is Mid 1950's to Post Vietnam lusterless Olive Drab
Olive Drab paint is still available on the web and from dealers; however, there is currently no
commercially available paint that is 100% the correct color for WWII Lusterless Olive Drab.
Some paint vendors will also tell you that Olive Drab #34087 is the same as WWII Lusterless Olive Drab,
but this too is incorrect. #34087 is a post-war color paint and although close, it is not the same color as the
WWII #319 paint. Even so, 99% of WWII Jeep restorers paint their jeeps a #34087 Lusterless Olive Drab
(Semi Gloss), because; it is pretty close to WWII #319; and because it is more water & stain repellent than
#24087 Flat OD.
The Paint Colors used on standard WWII Army Jeeps
Blue Drab : The Hood #'s were originally painted on at the factories in a Blue Drab.
Blue Drab looks whitish in B&W photos.
Flat White :
Front & Rear unit markings on Front Bumper and Rear Bumperettes;
Stars - Hood, Front Bumper, Left and Right rear 1/4 panel, and Rear panel on
early jeeps without a Gas Can Rack.
With exceptions being;
a short period from the end of 1941 to the first months of 1942 when
White star with Blue or Red Ball in center was in use.
Also, a yellow star was authorized early in 1942.
Also, sometimes the "Gas / Blister Agent Detecting paint was
applied to the Star on the hood.
Flat white paint was also used in the field for hood numbers on jeeps;
1) If the jeep was rebuilt overseas, with a different or new replacement
hood being put on.
2) If all hood markings had been covered over with OD paint to better
camouflage the jeep for some covert mission. Once the mission was
completed, the hood #'s were painted back on the hood in flat white.
3) Vehicles transferred to and from other branches of the service. (USA
-->> USMC).
4) Stolen vehicles. A new or fictitious number would be painted on the
newly 'acquired' vehicle.
Olive Drab : Jeep Body, Body Parts, Frame, Wheels, Mechanical Components, Willys
MB Jeep Engine (Ford GPW Engines were Gray)
Olive Drab OR Black, Glossy : Air Cleaner Crossover Tube, Carb Elbow, Radiator,
Radiator Hose Tubes, Radiator Fan Blades, Oil Dipstick & Oil Filler Tube, Oil Filter
Mounting Bracket, Coil
Black, Glossy : Air Cleaner, Oil Filter Housing & Rings, Generator & Starter, Horn,
Distributor Housing,< Previous Like Easy Surf Historical War & Heritage
Black Wrinkle (also called 'Japan' sites Off : Suprise Me! Next >
finish)
22 di 33 24/05/2013 17:27
Gray, Semi-Gloss : Ford GPW Engine (Willys MB Engines were OD)

Unpainted : Fuel Filter (or OD), Carburetor, Fuel Pump
NAVY Vehicles
The first jeeps owned by the Navy and by the Marines were painted Lusterless Olive Drab. These were
Ford GP's built on Navy and Marine contracts in 1941.
No Navy jeeps were delivered painted Gray. All Navy GPW's were delivered in Lusterless Olive Drab.
MB's were delivered in Lusterless Olive Drab and also in USMC "Forest Green". Gray painted Navy jeeps
occasionally were repainted that color in the field by individuals in the Navy.
There were a few vehicles (Jeeps are not included on the list) that were delivered in Gray. One example is
the Ford GTB bomb trucks. One Navy contract was delivered painted "Ocean Gray". Also, Navy Ford
station wagons were delivered painted Black.
What color did the Navy paint vehicles in combat areas? Forest Green, Olive Drab or camouflage.
USMC Vehicles
Did the Marine Corps paint their vehicles Marine Corps Green or Olive Drab?
USMC vehicles were painted Forest Green.

All Ford GPW Jeeps diverted to the Marines were delivered in Lusterless Olive Drab.
Willys MB Jeeps produced under contract were painted either Lusterless Olive Drab with a fog coat of
Forest Green, or delivered in Forest Green.
This was a Lusterless (meaning flat) green.
USMC jeeps on Iwo Jima, and other places in WWII were painted a camouflage scheme. They were
painted that way in the field and were not delivered painted that way.
Canadian Jeeps
In 1942 Canada acquired it's first jeeps from Willys. These Willys 'MB' Jeeps were made to specific
Canadian contracts and varied from the US Army Jeeps and US Marine Corps Jeeps. They were unique
vehicles. These Canadian MB's were not painted US olive drab, but a darker, browner 'Khaki No.3'.
Canada later purchased both the standard model Willys MB and the standard model Ford GPW. Both came
in the standard American Olive Drab color, a color that Canada adopted for all Canadian military vehicles
in mid 1944. For more on WWII Canadian Jeeps.
What is a "Script Body Tub"?

The early production jeeps (and other vehicles) carried the manufactures name in embossed letters on the
back body panel. “WILLYS” in block letters and “FORD” in script letters. About ½ way through 1942, the
U.S. Government decided to stop advertising vehicle brand names on ‘their’ military hardware. They told
all the manufacturers to stop. The script is found on the lower left side of the rear body panel just below
where the jerry can / gas can rack is found on the mid 1942-1945 jeeps. Photo of an early Willys Script
WWII Jeep rear panel (1942 MB). These Very Early jeeps are most commonly found in the USA today,
especially on the west coast. They were the first jeeps issued and they were rushed to training centers
immediately. Training centers such as Patton’s Desert Training Center in Ariz. and Calif. When troops
were deployed overseas, they left the old used ‘script’ jeeps behind and were issued fresh new jeeps to go
to war with. This is why 1943, 1944, 1945 jeeps are more plentiful in Europe. Photo of early Ford Script
WWII Jeep (1942 GPW). Recently I received an email from a gentleman in England questioning if the
invention of the jerry can & mounting bracket was the real cause of the demise of the script name on the
< Previous
script jeeps. I appreciate the dialog LikehimEasy
and feedback from Surf ItHistorical
& others. allows meWar & in
to fill Heritage
information on
23 di 33 24/05/2013 17:27
the web site and make improvements to it. This letter alludes to a magazine story about the surprised allies
finding out a mystery device the Germans had which was discovered to be a 5 gallon gas can. The letter:
Dear Sir,
As owner of a late '42 GPW, may I make the following observation?
Your piece on 'script Jeeps' misses one important factor. You say that the Government decided
to stop advertising etc., during mid 1942. The prime reason for this was, in fact, the
'discovery' of the jerrycan in the north African desert, as the Allies pushed the Axis forces
back for the first time. With such an efficient fuel container now being copied by the British
and the US, it was natural to fill the otherwise empty space on the back of the jeep with spare
fuel. At that point the manufacturers ceased stamping their names on the back because they
could no longer be seen.
Yours sincerely,
FS
Hampton,
England.
Well the reason I didn't mention the discovery' and mounting of jerry cans above is because for the most
part it's not true. The 'jerry can story' was often repeated, but is now pretty much dismissed as false
folklore re: jerry cans. Gas cans were known about in 1939, and the German cans were manufactured in a
completely different way than the US produced cans. German cans are a 2 pc clamshell style, while the US
used a 3 pc assembly with a Top, a Bottom, and a Side section. I talk more about Gas cans on the The
WWII MB/GPW Jeep Spare Parts Kit, Tools Kit, Standard Issue Equipment & Accessories, Special Issue
Equipment & Accessories Web Page. The problem with attributing the demise of Script logos to gas cans
is two-fold; #1) Logos could be moved, and #2) It fails to address other size vehicles.
If there wasn't a ban on the Mfg.'s names, Ford & Willys could have just lowered the name by 2 inches, or
moved the name to some other location such as the hood - remember the Willys MA was tagged on the
hood. Jerry cans had nothing to do with stopping a relocation of the manufacturer's name, but a policy by
the US Gov. against the display of logos would. The jerry can mounting position theory also fails to
address any other vehicle other than the jeep. It was a US inventory wide policy against manufacturer
advertising on all vehicles, not just jeeps. Jerry can mounting locations would not be a factor on Dodges,
Chevrolets, GMC's, Whites, Studebakers, Autocars, Caddy's, Packers, and others who also had to restrict
the display of their names.
Were early 1942 Ford GPW’s on Willys Frames?

So you have a Script Ford body tub sitting on a Willys frame.
Well in early Ford production, they used the same outside vendor to buy frames that Willys did. So
everyone refers to them as Willys Frames. The US Military wanted the jeeps as fast as possible, and
stopping to wait for Ford to tool up to produce their own design of frames would have put them too far
behind in the production quota. The solution was to order some Willys type frames and use them until the
Ford version was being produced in house. There were 9-10,000 of the first GPW's that were put on
Willys type frames. The serial #'s are going to be out of order, and there will be gaps as well. It is not
unheard of to have a GPW in the 15,000 range and still be on one of the first Willys style frames.
This is because Ford used a different accounting method than Willys. At Ford the MAIN unit being
counted was the engine serial number. As engines were made they were stamped with a sequential serial #
and tagged with additional wire tie tags with the same # on them. As the engines were made, they were
moved to the Engine Storage Room to await delivery to the assembly line. The first engines made (and
therefore lower in serial#) would be put in the room first - in the back, with later, higher numbered engines
going in front of them. The engines were removed and sent to the assembly line as they were stacked and
arranged in the Engine Storage Room, not in numerical order. This means that the 1st 9,000 engines did
not necessarily go on the 1st 9,000 frames. Some of the later ford frames got early engines, and vice
24 di 33 24/05/2013 17:27
versa.
The extra wire ties tags were keeping track of the jeep (inventory) at each stage of production for
accounting purposes. For example, for the guy who stamped the serial# on the chassis / frame, and for the
guy who stamped the # in the data plate (completed body), and last, for the guard to tear off as it went out
the back door as a completed unit.
What are Black Out Lights?

The US Army devised a strategy to use the tail lights and marker lights on vehicles to not only evade
detection from the enemy, but also to help with the problem of conducting vehicle movement at night
under black out conditions. These specially designed military lights are called Black Out Lights. The
original type used were called ‘Blue Louver” blackout lights. They were sometimes also referred to as
“Cat Eye / Cat’s Eye” Black Out Lamps, because the taillight had a black vertical stripe. These consisted
of a glass lens at the front, followed by a black metal disc, and then a colored plastic inner lens. All the
pieces were held together by a thick black rubber gasket mounted inside a pot metal bucket and metal
bezel (cover). The metal disc would be perforated with many parallel cuts. The metal strips created by
the slices were then bent forward to allow a tiny amount of light to pass through. (There were actually 2
metal discs, both with louvers, placed back-to-back and riveted or spot-welded together). The front marker
lights had a blue gray colored lens, while the rear B/O <Black-out> Stop Light had 2 lenses, one of red,
the other a blue gray. Individual parts could be replaced. These lights were used on all types of vehicles
including the prototype jeeps - The Ford GP, and the Bantam BRC-40. The Blue Louver Lights did not
see use on the standard production WWII Willys MB and Ford GPW jeeps. Photograph of a Pre-war to
Early WWII Blue Louver Black Out Marker Light.
The MB/GPW’s used the standardized B/O light of WW2. These lights consisted of a bucket, and metal
bezel that contained a sealed unit. The individual lenses, screen, colored lens and bulb were a sealed unit
and had to be replaced as a unit if one part was damaged. This made the unit much more water-resistant
than the previous style. The way the black out effect was achieved was also changed for these standard
B/O lights. The thick rubber gasket, the metal louvers, and the black stripes were gone. Instead the sealed
unit contained a clear plastic lens on the outside. Then set back in from the front approx. ½ inch was a
black plastic screen, which had upside down pyramids cut out. Following the black screen was a colored
plastic lens in off-white, or red. Last, and set back into and soldered to the metal housing was the small
incandescent light bulb of low output.
The key features were:

1) The upside down triangles,
2) The fact that the triangles were set back from the front face of the light's lens,
3) The spacing of the triangles in relation to each other.
The set back and the fact the triangle was upside down was important because it allowed any one at foot
level the see the lights clearly. However, anyone flying over and trying to spot the vehicles or get their
bearing from automobile lights on the road were unable to see them because the angle would not allow it.
The higher the angle, the less of the triangle was visible because of the overhang. Low output bulbs
limited the distance the lights could be seen. The next key was the spacing of the triangles. The front
marker light had 2 triangles. The rear stoplight had 2 pairs of triangles.
Configured like this: Y Y YY
Photograph of Standard WWII Black Out Tail Lights - Right Hand.

Photograph of Standard WWII Black Out Tail Lights - Left Hand.
They were cut into the black plastic in pairs. The triangles of a pair would be separated by about 3/8”, and
the pairs were separated from each other by about 1-½ inches. This spacing was important. They had
done the geometry to determine <the
Previous Liketo make
correct separation Easythese
Surftriangles
Historical
of War & Heritage
light helpful when
25 di 33 24/05/2013 17:27
driving in a convoy at night. As the driver of a vehicle located in the middle of the convoy driving at night
under black out conditions, you had to rely on the B/O lights on the vehicle in front of you and behind you
to maintain your speed and distance from the other vehicles in the convoy. If you could see all 4 red
triangles of the stoplight in front of you, you were following too closely. If all 4 red triangles merged into
1 red light, you were too far back. What you wanted to see was that each of the PAIRS of red lights
merged.
8 points of
From this (too close - under 60 feet): Y YY Y Y YY Y light is too
many
4 points of
To this (correct distance - 60 - 180 ft): V V
V V light is correct
2 points of
To this (too far back - over 180 feet): light is too
V V
few
Left Blackout Right Blackout
Tail Light Tail Light
This means you would see 2 red lights per taillight. This allowed you enough stopping distance, and kept
you from getting left behind as well. As the driver, you were to also watch your rear view mirror and keep
an eye on the guy behind you. His front marker lights to be exact. Those 2 triangles should merge into 1 if
he was following you at the correct distance. If you could make out individual triangles, then he was
following too closely and you should tap your brake lights to get his attention. If the lights faded and
couldn’t be seen, then you might be driving to fast, or there could be a problem that would require halting
the column.
Several months after standardizing the B/O lights, it was decided that a B/O Driving Light was needed.
This was a larger lamp assembly that was mounted to the left front fender of the jeep and other vehicles.
This light had a higher candlepower bulb inside. It was larger and used a lens with angles in it to direct the
light in a horizontal pattern and minimize the light escaping vertically. The lamp also had a metal hood
similar to a baseball cap’s bill built into it to make it invisible from the sky. The name B/O Driving Light
confused many people. The main purpose was not to help the driver see the terrain; rather it was for the
people driving ahead of you. Your B/O Drive Light was right in line with the outside rear view mirror of
the guy in front of you. As a driver, if you saw a rapidly approaching Black Out Drive Light in your rear
view mirror, you could tap your brake lights as a warning or take evasive action as necessary. It would also
allow pedestrians a better chance of seeing you coming and get out of your way. It’s value as a way of
seeing where you were going is next to nil. B/O Driving lights became standard issue starting in mid
1942. Retrofit kits were issued to modify vehicles already in the field. See next question for photos.
1/4ton Bantam and Willys trailers (MBT / T-3) used the same black out lights. However, switching
between normal and blackout lights on the jeep pulling the trailer did not affect the status of the lights that
were running on the trailer. The trailer had its own light switch mounted to the front passenger side box
frame. Here is a photo showing the small WWII MBT Jeep Trailer B/O Light Switch mounted in the front
of the lower passenger side. There was a small disc (door) that swiveled out of the way to reveal a small
set screw that can be turned using the butt end of the Jeep H-700 Key to switch between running lights and
B/O lites.
What is that strange Bracket on the Driver's Side Fender for?

Black Out Driving Lights were mounted to a guard bracket that had a strong iron loop over it to protect the
B/O Light. There are 2 styles, the early squared base, and the normal teardrop shaped mounting brackets.
26 di 33 24/05/2013 17:27
There are even slight manufacturing differences between Ford and Willys brackets. Willys used a large
blob spot weld to attach the loop to the lower base, while Ford used a smaller and deeper patterned spot
weld. The pattern looks like 5 dots as found on dice. Teardrop style guards will be found with Ford “F”
marks stamped into the loop (usually at the 11 o’clock position, although some are known to exist that are
marked on the base).
Photo showing front view of WWII Jeep with B/O Driving Light.
Photograph of WWII jeep with early WW2 'Squared' Black Out Driving Light Guard.
Photograph of WWII jeep with standard WW2 'Teardrop' shaped Black Out Driving Light Guard.
Here is a picture showing a top view of the B/O Drive Lite with the baseball cap bill extending into the
loop of the B/O Lite Guard.
What are the Thumbscrews, Thumbwheels and other hardware on

the Windshield for?
On the Outer Windshield Arms where the windshield attaches to the cowl of the jeep there are
thumbscrews. The thumbscrews turn to loosen the tension and allow the windshield to tilt forward and lay
flat against the hood where clamps hold them down against the hood blocks on the hood. The
Thumbscrews have little metal wire Safety Chain Loops and Chains around them to keep them from
falling off and getting lost. One loop goes around the thumbscrew, while the other goes through a small
hole on the Windshield Cowl Bracket which is permanently bolted to the jeep. Should the thumbscrew
come loose and fall off, it would dangle on the end of the chain and not get lost in the weeds.
Picture of WW2 (G503) Jeep Safety Chains and Ford GPW style Loops.
Folding the windshield down allows the lowest profile for the jeep when sneaking around or trying to hide
a jeep. It is also useful for saving space when shipping the jeeps. Having the windshield folded flat also
maximizes the field of fire for a rifleman sitting in the jeep. Driving with the windshield down offers the
best visibility for spotting the enemy as well as negotiating tricky terrain and situations while driving.
Picture of WW2 (G503) Jeep with the windshield folded down.
The Windshield is held in the upright position by a Clamp mounted on the windshield frame with the
Catch mounted to the dashboard. The early jeeps came with clamps made of brass. They were shortly
changed to a stamped steel construction.
Photo of Early Brass Windshield Clamp.
Picture of Late Stamped Steel Windshield Clamp.
Photograph with a more side view showing Late Windshield Clamp and Dash Catch.
There are situations when you would want the top up for shade or rain protection, but still need the extra
visibility and freedom of movement and field of fire that an open windscreen affords. The WW2 jeep was
designed so that the main windshield frame could be up in the raised position, supporting the canvas top,
and the Inner Windshield Frame could be opened and tilted forward. This allowed for better visibility,
field of fire, and voice communications to the front of the vehicle. The inner windshield could be opened
just a little to allow fresh air in, or all the way up to allow the use of rifles aimed forward. the Inner
Windshield is attached to the Outer windshield frame at the very top by a very long piano hinge. At each
end of the windshield assembly are small Arms and Thumb wheels. Loosening the Thumbwheels allows
the hinge of the Inner Windshield to tilt forward and the Arms slide along a stud. At any point the Thumb
wheel can be tightened up, locking the Inner Windshield in it place.
Photo showing details of Inner Windshield Arm, Thumb Wheel.
Picture of WW2 (G503) Jeep with Outer Windshield Frame raised, Inner Windshield open. (see Navy Jeep
~ notice arms with slot frame stud slides in).
Picture of World War Two "Follow Me" jeep with the inner windshield open.
What is the long bracket on the inside of the windshield for?

The Universal Rifle Rack is a long metal bracket mounted
< Previous to theSurf
Like Easy inside of the lower
Historical Warwindscreen
& Heritageon the
windshield of a WW2 Military Jeep. The samesites
rifle racks
Off were also Me!
Suprise used on many,
Next > many other US army
27 di 33 24/05/2013 17:27
vehicles as well. The Univ. Rifle Rack was designed to hold several different rifles. It would hold the M-1
Garand, M1 Carbine, BAR / Browning Automatic Rifle, Thompson Sub Machine Gun, Grease Gun, and
the Springfield and Enfield rifles. There is a little loop that swivels down to allow the short barreled
grease gun to be mounted. The other rifles are held in place by a cam-locking arm with a rubber bumper.
The gun mounts upside down with the barrel pointing out the passenger side. The locking arm holds the
barrel up. When the arm is moved out of the way, a spring pushed the gun downwards into the waiting
hands of the GI. Photograph of a 45cal Thompson 'Tommy gun" machine gun with the 50 round drum
mounted in a Universal Rifle Rack. Notice the rifle rack is mounted upside down in this photo. If it was
mounted correctly, the 50 round drum would not fit because it would hit the jeep's dash. Photograph of
Universal Rifle Rack mounted correctly with rifle installed. Notice cam arm holding gun barrel fore-grip
up is rubber padded.
The Universal Rifle Racks were also issued with zippered canvas covers to jeeps and other vehicles used
farther back from the front lines. The canvas cover served to protect the gun from dust & rain. Photograph
of WWII Ford GPW Jeep with empty Rifle Rack mounted to inside of windshield frame. The first mention
of the Universal Rifle rack appears in October 1942 in Army Motors Vol. 3, pg. 205. Jeeps produced prior
(and most likely for a time after) would not have the Universal Rifle Rack. The early jeeps were able to
use the leather scabbards that were available for the different weapons. Field Modification kits were issued
to add a Universal Rifle Rack to a jeep that originally came without one from the factory. Univ. Rifle
Racks evolved over time. The earliest Rifle Racks (version 1) did not have the swivel loop for the Grease
Gun, nor did they have the metal reinforcement straps stapled to the bracket to hold the canvas cover on.
The metal swivel loop for the grease gun barrel (version 2) appears to have been added rather quickly as
very few of the Univ. Rifle Racks come without it. The next change was adding the zippered canvas cover
(version 3) which was held in place by two long strips of metal that were placed on top of the canvas along
the backbone of the Univ. Rifle Rack and stapled through all 3 layers. There was also a Field Mod kit for
the canvas cover. You can tell a field mod canvas cover from a factory canvas cover by whether the metal
strips are held in place by staples (factory) or by 2 small sheet metal screws (field modification) on each
strip. I have examples of all types in my collection.
My best estimate re: time frames.
prior to late 1942 - - Leather scabbards only
4th Quarter 1942 - Version 1 - no swivel, no canvas cover
2nd Quarter 1943 - Version 2 - swivel, no canvas cover
4th Quarter 1944 - Version 3 - swivel, canvas cover
Here is a photo of a late style WWII Jeep Windshield Frame with the welded on brackets that the
Universal Rifle Rack bolted to.
Early jeeps were not issued with Rifle Racks, so their windshield inner sheet metal pan did not have the
mounting brackets welded to them. They used Leather Rifle Scabbards instead. The Universal Rifle Rack
was designed to replace the many types of leather Rifle Scabbards issued. Leather Scabbards were made in
many different models. Each type of firearm required it's own special leather scabbard. They were not a
one-scabbard-fits-all arrangement. Individual leather scabbards were made for the following fire arms;
1. M1 Carbine .30 cal Rifle

2. M1 Garand .30 cal Rifle
3. Thompson .45 cal Submachine Gun
4. Springfield .30cal Rifle
The scabbards were attached to the military vehicles by leather straps. They were hung from the vehicle as
best they could be.
Photograph of Early Leather Rifle Scabbard mounted on WWII Jeep (hanging on rear view mirror arm,
windshield frame, and behind shovel).
Photograph of 2 WWII G503 Military Jeeps, bothsiteswith
OffLeather RifleMe!
Suprise Scabbards
Next >
28 di 33 24/05/2013 17:27
Why is the gas tank located under the driver's seat?

When Carl Probst and the people from the different branches of the armed forces were brainstorming over
what would become the jeep, the following observation was brought up. The jeep was to operate with a
normal crew of 3 people, oftentimes more. That to have the driver be shot/killed would usually result in
death or injury to all occupants by loss of control of the vehicle. So any bullet with a trajectory
intersecting the driver meant the crew was most likely a write off. A bullet with any other trajectory would
only take out a non-essential occupant (non-essential to the operation of the vehicle anyway). The jeep
must have a gas tank, which is by nature prone to fire & explosion when fired upon, especially with
incendiary, or tracer rounds. An explosion of the fuel tank would injure/kill all occupants of a jeep. To
minimize the number of "death shot" trajectories available to the enemy, the tank was placed under the
driver. To put it anywhere else was to double the number of places that the enemy could deliver a death
shot to the entire crew. By putting the high risk areas together, they minimized the space and therefore
increased the chances of crew & vehicle survivability. The first jeeps, the MA, BRC, and GP had only
10-gallon tanks sitting on top of the floorboard, with no spare gas can on the rear body panel. The first
MB's & GPW's came with a 15-gallon tank, which now included a 5-gallon sump below the floorboards,
but still no jerry can or rack . After 6 months of MB GPW production the standard 5 gallon jerry can and
rack were added to the rear panel of the jeep presenting a nice target to shoot at. If you watch the history
channel enough, you'll see some fine movies of people driving jeeps with the rear end of the jeep on fire
i.e.: the jerry can took a round. Civilians face different circumstances when talking about survivability.
They are much more likely to get in a collision, than shot at. Ruptured and flaming gas tanks inside
passenger compartments was frowned upon by Hi-way Traffic safety people, which led to rules being put
in place to move gas tanks outside the interior cabin space of vehicles to better protect the occupants.
Re: Anti-Decapitation Device

It was a nasty fact of war that sometimes the enemy forces would string a thin wire across a roadway that
Allied Jeeps traveled on. This steel tension wire provided a static way to lop off the heads of drivers
(passengers) who couldn't see it (night time, dust, fatigue, etc.), and even if they could see it, stopping in
time was seldom accomplished. The GI's answer to this booby trap threat was the Anti-Decapitation
Device, which was a field made angle iron assembly bolted or welded to the front bumper. There were
usually 2 support braces that angled back to either side of the frame rails. At the top it was angled forward
to catch & hold the wire and usually a notch was cut and sharpened as well to aid in catching wires and
cutting them. Here is a picture of a Anti-Decapitation Device mounted on a WW2 Ford GPW Jeep made
in 1942.
Were the Jeeps sent to Russia during WW2 as part of Lend Lease
specially adapted for Russian weather, primitive roads etc.?
No, in fact they were our cast-offs. We originally sent our Bantam BRC-40, Willys MA, and Ford GP 1st
model prototype Jeeps to Russia (and other Lend Lease countries including the British) because they did
not meet the new standards set by the Willys 2nd model, the Willys MB. The newer WWII Jeeps were not
for sale in great quantities, as we didn’t have many to spare in the early stages of World War Two. As the
war progressed and we had enough jeeps for our uses, we sent over MB's and GPA's to our Lend Lease
Partners. At the same time, Russia had reverse engineered a jeep of their own, The GAZ-67, 4x4,
Command Car, copying most of it’s parts and design layout from the US versions. It's front end styling is
distinctly Russian, but it still shows the influence of the prototype BRC and MA headlight style. (see
below for a link to my WWII GAZ Jeep page).
Re: Winterization Kits

< Previous
Winter canvas grill covers, and hood blankets wereLike Easy
produced lateSurf Historical
in the War &
war in limited HeritageSmall
quantities.
29 di 33 24/05/2013 17:27
kerosene, gas stove heaters were also produced in very limited quantity. Full canvas Top enclosure
assemblies were produced in much larger quantity than the other Winterizing kits, and even they were in
short supply. Here is a photograph of a full canvas winter enclosure on a 1941 Willys Slatgrill jeep. Hard
tops were made in the field from whatever materials were at hand. The war produced all sorts of
interesting scrap materials to build jeep tops from, including tops made of wood, steel, aircraft aluminum,
and even clear plastic airplane bubble canopies. Here is a photograph of a field made WWII Jeep Hard
Top. All hard tops were for the most part one-of-a-kind. There was probably an instance or two of some
field unit constructing a dozen similar units, but I don’t have any writen records, instructions, or diagrams,
just a few photos showing a few hard tops of similar design & construction.
Re: Canvas Tops and Doors

From the very first design on paper of what was to become known as a jeep, they have always had a
canvas top. The tops for the prototype Jeeps, The Bantam BRC 40, Willys MA, and Ford GP (from 1940
to 1941) were supported by only one upright bow at the rear. The flapping of the top caused by the wind
when driving was beating on the driver’s heads. It proved to be unbearable, so they fixed that problem on
the standard production Ford GPW and Willys MB jeeps (late 1941, 1942, 1943, 1944, 1945). The
standard production MB/GPW jeeps came with 2 top bows. The 2nd support bow was added to the main
rear bow on a pivot a few inches up from the bottom of the main rear top bow tube. The pivot allowed the
bow to pivot forward to support the top right behind the driver seat, or to fold flat for storage when the top
was not in use. And after MB # 3000 they raised the height of the windshield as well. Photograph of
WWII jeep with canvas top up. Canvas top were originally stenciled with information on them, but they
are seldom seen today since most original canvas tops have ripped, torn, faded, shrunk over the years and
been thrown away. Even the stenciling itself can fade away or be hidden by dirt and stains. Here is a
picture of a typical stencil markings on a canvas jeep top. Army Jeeps also came with canvas 1/2 doors.
They attached with 7 complex snaps to the side of the body. These snaps are not the kind of snaps seen
today. Both the snaps and the ½ doors were next to useless, and that is why you almost never see them in
pictures. Photograph of WWII Jeep 1/2 Doors in use on 1942 Ford GPW.
Re: Windshield Covers

The Windshield Cover is another item that is seldom seen today. The army and marines infrequently used
them in combat as well, although you can find several late war photos from the ETO showing them in use.
Many times they were utilized as an extra storage place for personal belongings. The windshield cover
consisted of 2 long pieces of OD canvas sewn together at the top and both sides. The bottom was left open
to allow the windshield to slide into it, and then the bottom was closed with snaps. At the top, there were
cutouts to allow the loops screwed to the top of the windshield to come through so the windshield could to
be folded down and secured with the hood clamps. Occasionally a star was stenciled to the windshield
cover since it covered the star painted on the hood when folded down. The purpose of the windshield was
to protect the glass from falling debris, and to stop the glass from acting like a mirror and reflecting
sun/moon/star light to enemy observers thereby giving away your position. Here is a photograph of a
WW2 jeep with the windshield cover and 1/2 doors in place.
WWII Willys Canadian Scout Car Jeep - The "W-LU 440-M-

PERS-1"
In 1942 Canada acquired it's first jeeps from Willys. 5,000 custom made World War Two Willys Scout Car
(MB Jeeps) made & modified in the US to Canadian specs. The Canadian model name for this jeep is
W-LU 440-M-PERS-1 (Willys Light Utility Military 4 wheels, 4 wheel drive, 80 inch wheelbase,
Personnel, 1st Model).
These Willys 'MB' Jeeps were made to specific Canadian
< Previous Like contracts and
Easy Surf varied from
Historical Warthe&US Army Jeeps
Heritage
and US Marine Corps Jeeps. They were uniquesites vehicles.
Off These Canadian
Suprise Me! MB's
Next were
> not painted US olive
30 di 33 24/05/2013 17:27
drab, but a darker, browner 'Khaki No.3'. Canada later purchased both the standard model Willys MB and
the standard model Ford GPW. Both came in the standard American Olive Drab color, a color that Canada
adopted for all Canadian military vehicles in mid 1944.
WWII Russian GAZ Jeeps

Russia copies and modifies the early prototype American Jeep designs and creates its own version.
(Follow the link above to it's own webpage)
Germany's 'Jeep-like' war vehicles - The Kuebelwagen and the

Schwimmwagen
Germany builds it's own amphibious 'GPA-like' and it's own general purpose 'Jeep-like' vehicles for
World War Two. (Follow the link above to it's own webpage)
WW2 Wartime Civilian or AGRI-Jeeps

A very few test Civilian / Agrijeep Jeeps were made during WW2 - Experimental CJ-2 Photo (not a
CJ-2a)
The Jeepney of the Philippines

After World War Two, the US Military had many extra jeeps for sale. Many of the Army Surplus WWII
Jeeps were sold and then heavily modified in the Philippines. Most commonly used as Taxi Cabs.
(Follow the link above to it's own webpage)
WWII MB/GPW JEEPS & HOLLYWOOD

Here is a list of movies and TV shows that Military Jeeps can be seen in. There are also links to several
web sites dedicated to Hollywood productions, in some the jeep was a star, in others it only had a
supporting role. All are fun to browse through.
Archives & Photo Libraries

DATA ARCHIVES
WWII Jeep Parts Department Archives
Technical Manuals
Parts Lists, Ordnance Supply Catalogs
Jeep Serial Numbers, Jeep Models, & Jeep Production Archives page
Quick Army & Civilian Jeep History Timeline
Master List of All Traditional Size Jeep Models Produced
World War Two Jeep Specifications
WWII Jeep Production & Jeep Serial Number statistics
How To Find WWII Jeep Serial Numbers - 3 Locations
How To Find WWII Jeep Trailer Serial Numbers - 2 Locations
Serial Numbers on Military and Willys Overland Civilian Jeep Engines
Serial Numbers on Civilian Willys Jeep Bodies
Willys Overland Civilian Jeep Production Figures 1945-1961
Willys Hotchkiss French Military M201 Jeep Production Figures 1955 - 1966
AMC Jeep CJ Serial # / VIN & Production Figures 1975 - 1986
How To Locate Serial / VIN Numbers on Kaiser & AMC Jeep CJs
Decoding AMC < Previous Like Identification
Jeep CJ Vehicle Easy Surf Historical
NumbersWar & Heritage
(VIN) for 1975 -
31 di 33 24/05/2013 17:27
1986
Jeep Tools, Spare Parts, and Accessories pages.
Jeep Tool Kit Items
Jeep Onboard Tools & Spare Parts
Rare Special Accessories
Jeep Trailers
Jeep Armament
Canvas Stock Number Archives
WWII Jeep Canvas Items Stock Numbers
Signal Corps Bag / Cover ID List
1997 - 1998 Price List Catalog Archive
All American Wonder Vol. 1 & Vol. 2 Master Index Archive page
Both Volumes Combined together in a Master Index of the set
Military Vehicles Magazine Master Index Archive page.
Master List of Articles in Military Vehicles Magazine Issue #1 - #96
Military Vehicles Mailing List Archives
All Military Vehicles of All Vintages, Heavy emphasis on Larger, Post Korea
Trucks
Online Military Technical Manuals Index Archives
PS Magazine Index Archives
BMJ Bulletin Board Archives
Questions & Answers
Tech Tips
Restoration Help
Jeep & WWII Facts & Trivia
Jeep For Sale Ads / Want Ads
Want Ads
BMJ Guest Book Archives
Jeep Joke Archives
PHOTO ARCHIVES
My Favorite Pictures
Original Photographs of WWII Jeeps Archive Page
Hall of Fame/Customers' Jeep Restoration Projects
Customer's Photographs of Restored jeeps
1942 License Plates, 1939-1946 California License Plates, 1942-1945 US &
Canada License Plates
Free Jeep Clip Art Library - Jeeps & Military Vehicles
Photographs of AVG Flying Tigers Today Page
List of Books on the Flying Tigers (text only)
Squadron Patches of WWII. Pics of AAF, Navy, USMC and others
Accessories, Jeep Tools and Spare Parts Kit Archives
BACK TO
32 di 33 24/05/2013 17:27
Table of Post your Free Link to this Navigation

Contents Classified Ads website Help
Please don't pirate my pictures or text. Ask my permission.

Copyright © 1998-2012 Brian French. All Rights Reserved
History of the Jeep, both the word and the vehicle - How it got it's Jeep Name - Brian's Military
Jeeps of WWII - Page was updated on 10/11/2012
Historical War & Heritage sites

< Prev / Talk / Like / Sites / Join / Surprise / Next >
© WebRing Inc.
Visit a complete list of WebRing memberships here

33 di 33 24/05/2013 17:27

History of The Jeep, Both The Word and The Vehicle - How It Got It's Jeep Name - Brian's Military Jeeps of WWII

Uploaded by

Document Information

Original Title

Copyright

Available Formats

Share this document

Share or Embed Document

Sharing Options

Did you find this document useful?

Is this content inappropriate?

Copyright:

Available Formats

History of The Jeep, Both The Word and The Vehicle - How It Got It's Jeep Name - Brian's Military Jeeps of WWII

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

History of the Jeep, both the word and the vehicle - How it got it's Jee... http://wwiijeepparts.com/Archives/WWIIJeepHistory.

"America's only real sports car"

Lots More Jeep History Below:

How did it get to be called a jeep anyway?

Every Jeep was issued with manuals.

Federal Trade Commission, 1943

Revised version of 'jeep according to JEEP Corp.'

How Many U.S. Companies Built Army Jeeps in WWII?

GPA Amphibious Jeeps built by Ford

"Follow Me" Army Jeeps of the AAF

One Method of Military Jeep Disposal After World War Two

Army Surplus Jeep in a Crate for $50?

What exactly is "Cosmolene" anyway?

What was it like buying Army Surplus and Military Vehicles ~

How can I tell a Military Jeep Engine from a Civilian Engine?

Cast Numbers on engine;

Cylinder head #639660 would be the head number for a MB engine.

The Go Devil 134.2 Jeep Engine

The Jeep Drive Train

Transfer Case - left lever

Transfer Case - right lever

bottom = hi gear range

SPECIAL LAWS for Titling and Registering your MV!

Indiana: Information Maintained by the Office of Code Revision Indiana Legislative

The text of the specific Louisiana law is below:

Oklahoma Statutes as Section 1136.2 of Title 47, unless there is created a

C. A former military vehicle shall not be required to display a license plate if

Insurance Issues for Military Vehicles

Hagerty Insurance Brokerage, Traverse City, Michigan. 1-616-947-6868 & 1-800-922-4050

The Jeep is driveable - What can I do with it?

World War Two Jeep Driving Safety Issues

Increase rear lighting.

Safety Placards and Triangles

Towing your restored WW2 jeep

1) Make sure I had non-original front locking hubs.

Where can I look up where my military jeep was used in WWII?

Where do I find my WW2 Jeeps Serial Numbers?

THE DATA PLATES ON THE GLOVE BOX DOOR

into the toe board gusset.

What are WWII Army Jeep Hood Registration Numbers?

Where & How do I find Hood Registration Numbers on WW2

Can you estimate my WWII Army Jeep's Hood Registration

Gasoline Soluble Paint used for Hood Registration Numbers, and

Cross References for:

Re: Spare Parts

There were other Olive Drab paint colors used.

WWII Paint vs. Today's Paint

Lusterless paint is somewhere between a Flat paint and a Semi-Gloss paint.

#319 - 1944-45 (Late WW11 Lighter OD) - FALSE!

The Paint Colors used on standard WWII Army Jeeps

Gray, Semi-Gloss : Ford GPW Engine (Willys MB Engines were OD)

USMC vehicles were painted Forest Green.

What is a "Script Body Tub"?

Were early 1942 Ford GPW’s on Willys Frames?

What are Black Out Lights?

The key features were:

Configured like this: Y Y YY

Photograph of Standard WWII Black Out Tail Lights - Right Hand.

What is that strange Bracket on the Driver's Side Fender for?

What are the Thumbscrews, Thumbwheels and other hardware on

What is the long bracket on the inside of the windshield for?

1. M1 Carbine .30 cal Rifle

Why is the gas tank located under the driver's seat?