05-02-2011 The Hindu : Magazine / Books : Beautiful …

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C ostume, Textiles and Jewellery of India: Traditions in Rajasthan,

Vimala Bhandari, Prakash Books India (P) Ltd., price not stated.

INDIA, with its diversity of cultures and traditions, boasts of a

plethora of costumes and age-old textiles, offering social and cultural
statements, which are expressions of identity, region and community.
Vandana Bhandari, after more than a decade of research and
fieldwork in Rajasthan, documented her findings on women's clothing
in Rajasthan, increasing the base to cover fascinating textile
techniques, jewellery and clothing. A study such as this, in the
author's words, "provides an index to the social, cultural, political,
historical and economic aspects that shape people and its ethos".

Much information

The contemporary attire of the Rajasthanis has not changed

dramatically over the years. There might be a deviation perhaps in

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05-02-2011 The Hindu : Magazine / Books : Beautiful …
the inclusion of present-day fabric, which is easier to care for rather
than the hand-block printed, hand-dyed fabric, earlier the hallmark of
beautiful Rajasthani textiles. A study of royal costumes tells you
clearly about the hierarchy, and the kind of clothes worn at different
levels and occasions.

A brief description of hereditary weaving skills explains the different

kinds of handlooms produced in the region, like the gossamer kota
doria produced in the village of Khaitoon. Dyeing techniques using
natural dyes to tint the textiles in the brilliant hues one admires in this
region are explained and bandhini or tie-dye, is illustrated. For
anyone with a passion for textiles, this book provides adequate
information, even for the lay reader, to try out these techniques at
home.

Rajasthan is one of the most famous regions for hand block printing
and, together with vegetable dyes, the beauty of the ajrak, dabu and
warq (metallic) printing is truly incomparable. A traditional craft, it is
passed on from parents to their offspring. A clear insight into the
different kinds of embroideries is provided with the colourful visuals.

C lothes with surface ornamentation indeed convey a message. For

instance, a girl wearing an odhni of a single colour announces that
she has not yet reached puberty; a large circle of bandhini in one
corner heralds her married status; a single circle in the centre of
bright red shows she is a mother and as the colours dim it announces
widowhood. C ostumes also indicate the status of the women wearing
them. The pagdi or the turban worn by the men indicates the
denominational characteristics and the community they belong to. A
saffron coloured safa shows he is a Baniya. Priests prefer red turbans
and so do the Rabari tribes, and certain agricultural communities
prefer block-printed padgis. Ornamented juthis and elaborate
hairstyles complete the picture.

Jew ellery

Rajasthan is a treasure trove for traditional jewellery, which is

revered even today. It is not mere ornamentation, and to quote the
author, "metaphysical beliefs are expressed through the metaphor of
jewellery". And each piece of jewellery is fashioned accordingly for
specific reasons, and these traditional ornaments have preserved
their cultural identities, and they serve to differentiate each socio-
ethnic group. Apart from silver, which is commonly worn, lac bangles,
filigree jewellery like the theva work, kundan work, meenakari and
enamelling form a part of the rich repertoire of the jewellery of
Rajasthan.

In the state of Rajasthan, there are different communities, each

having its own identity in relation to custom, dwelling, occupation and
clothing. Scale drawings at the end of the book on the various
traditional costumes would be very useful for design institutes and
students to draw upon traditional themes.

Beautifully written, well researched and enriched by colourful visuals,

this is yet another craft book which should take a position of pride in
every craft lover's home and, of course, in libraries.

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