H&M Lab Manual

H&M Lab Manual
Valid for all brands in H&M Group

May 2016
Table of Contents
Introduction ........................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 5
Colour Fastness .......................................................................................................................................................................................... 7
General Definitions ........................................................................................................................................................................................................... 8

Assessment of Colour Fastness ................................................................................................................................................................................ 8
Colour Fastness to Artificial Light for Hard Products................................................................................................................................... 9
Colour Fastness to Bleeding ...................................................................................................................................................................................... 10
Colour Fastness to Hot Pressing .............................................................................................................................................................................. 11
Colour Fastness to Household Laundering ....................................................................................................................................................... 13
Colour Fastness to Perspiration ...............................................................................................................................................................................14
Colour Fastness to Phenolic Yellowing ................................................................................................................................................................ 17

Colour Fastness to Rubbing ....................................................................................................................................................................................... 19
Colour Fastness to Oil Rubbing .................................................................................................................................................................................21
Colour Fastness to Saliva ............................................................................................................................................................................................23

Colour Fastness to Water............................................................................................................................................................................................25
Dye Transfer in Storage ............................................................................................................................................................................................... 27
OBA Test (to avoid yellowing of sole) ..................................................................................................................................................................29
Anti-yellowing ................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 30
Laundering ................................................................................................................................................................................................. 31
Household Laundering and Drying.........................................................................................................................................................................32
Appearance after Wash or Dry Clean ................................................................................................................................................................. 36

Dimensional Stability to Household Laundering or Dry Cleaning ........................................................................................................ 37
Twisting (Spirality) ...........................................................................................................................................................................................................52
Laminated Foam Cup Development Stage Wash Test ............................................................................................................................. 56

Badge Ironing..................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 63
Candles & Candle Holders .................................................................................................................................................................. 64
Risk Classification of Candles .................................................................................................................................................................................. 65

Burn Test Cycles for Burning Tests ..................................................................................................................................................................... 65
Surface Temperature for Container Candles and Candle Containers ............................................................................................ 66
Secondary Ignition.......................................................................................................................................................................................................... 68
Flame Height .......................................................................................................................................................................................................................70

Self-extinguishing............................................................................................................................................................................................................. 72
Re-ignition after Extinguishing ................................................................................................................................................................................. 74
Afterglow Test ................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 76
Clubbing on Wick ............................................................................................................................................................................................................. 78
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Wax Pool Temperature ............................................................................................................................................................................................... 80
Wax Spillage ........................................................................................................................................................................................................................82
Total Burning Time and Unmelt Wax ...................................................................................................................................................................84

Misuse of Container Candles ................................................................................................................................................................................... 86
Stability for Container Candles, Candle Containers and Candle Holders....................................................................................... 87

Ignition of decoration ................................................................................................................................................................................................... 88
Cooking & Washing Up ......................................................................................................................................................................... 90
Resistance to Microwave Heating ......................................................................................................................................................................... 91

Resistance to Freezing ................................................................................................................................................................................................. 93
Resistance to Freezer to Microwave Oven Usage and Vice Versa ....................................................................................................94
Resistance to Freezer to Oven Usage and Vice Versa ............................................................................................................................. 95
Durability to Hand Dishwashing ............................................................................................................................................................................. 96

Durability to Machine Dishwashing ....................................................................................................................................................................... 97
Handle and Knob Temperature .............................................................................................................................................................................. 98
Surface Temperature of Food Contact Products ....................................................................................................................................... 99

Resistance to Oven Use ............................................................................................................................................................................................ 100
Chemical .................................................................................................................................................................................................. 102
pH Test ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................ 103

Nickel Test .........................................................................................................................................................................................................................107
PVC – Beilstein Test ..................................................................................................................................................................................................... 110

Formaldehyde Test........................................................................................................................................................................................................ 111
Durability & Strength – Textile ......................................................................................................................................................... 115
Tear Strength ................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 116

Fibre Shedding of Fabrics with a Pile > 5 mm ............................................................................................................................................. 120
Pilling Resistance – ICI Pilling Box .........................................................................................................................................................................123

Pilling Resistance – Martindale ...............................................................................................................................................................................125
Pile Loss – Abrasion Resistance of Cord and Pile Fabrics......................................................................................................................128

Abrasion resistance knitted socks & tights ................................................................................................................................................... 130
Seam Slippage (grab test) ........................................................................................................................................................................................ 133
Elongation, Modulus and Recovery of Elastics ............................................................................................................................................ 135

Wire Casing Penetration Resistance ................................................................................................................................................................. 139
Peeling test ........................................................................................................................................................................................................................ 142

Durability & Strength – Non-textile ................................................................................................................................................143
Drop Test – Accessory................................................................................................................................................................................................ 144

Glue Test .............................................................................................................................................................................................................................146
Handle Strength Test – Bags and Small Leather Goods .........................................................................................................................148
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Handle Strength Test – Food Contact Products .........................................................................................................................................152
Pull Force Strength Test – Accessories ............................................................................................................................................................154
Cross-cut Test for Paints and Varnishes......................................................................................................................................................... 155

Adhesive Strength Test on Coating & Decoration ..................................................................................................................................... 157
Air Leakage ....................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 158

Resistance to Over Inflation.................................................................................................................................................................................... 159
Puncture Resistance ................................................................................................................................................................................................... 160
Hanging Test ..................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 161
Impact for Vacuum Insulated Containers ........................................................................................................................................................162
Key Holder Test ............................................................................................................................................................................................................. 163
Ring & Slider Tensile Strength............................................................................................................................................................................... 165
Hook and Eye Tensile Strength Test ................................................................................................................................................................. 168

Drop Test - Footwear ................................................................................................................................................................................................... 171
Glue Test - Footwear ................................................................................................................................................................................................... 173
Ring & Buckle Tensile Strength ............................................................................................................................................................................. 175

Bristles tufts/tines resistance, cushion, tips, end plugs, caps, conjunction parts resistance of Hair brush ............. 176
Performance – Textile ......................................................................................................................................................................... 178
Evaporation Test ............................................................................................................................................................................................................ 179

Spray Test (Surface Wetting) ................................................................................................................................................................................ 180
Wicking – Vertical .......................................................................................................................................................................................................... 181

Cold Test .............................................................................................................................................................................................................................182
Performance – Non-textile ............................................................................................................................................................... 183
Lid Performance .............................................................................................................................................................................................................184

Lid Security ....................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 185
Seal Leakage .................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 186

Seal Leakage of Filled Container with Liquid................................................................................................................................................. 187
Pouring Characteristics ............................................................................................................................................................................................. 188

Stability for Ceramic and Food Contact Products .................................................................................................................................... 190
Heat Loss ............................................................................................................................................................................................................................ 191
Thermal Shock .................................................................................................................................................................................................................192

Immersion Test for Functional Footwear ....................................................................................................................................................... 193
Heat Conduction for Trivets ....................................................................................................................................................................................194

Cold Resistance Temperature .............................................................................................................................................................................. 195
Packaging and Labelling ..................................................................................................................................................................... 197
Conditioning Test for Stickers .............................................................................................................................................................................. 198

Drop Test - Fragile Products - Online Channel ........................................................................................................................................... 200
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Drop Test – Fragile Products – Retail Channel............................................................................................................................................. 201
Volume Measuring........................................................................................................................................................................................................204
Safety ....................................................................................................................................................................................................... 205
Pull Force Test ............................................................................................................................................................................................................... 206
Restriction of Transparent Beads and Marbles ...........................................................................................................................................215

Appendix 1 – Test Routines: Apparel ............................................................................................................................................. 217
Appendix 2 – Test Routines: Footwear .........................................................................................................................................218
Appendix 3 – Calibration Routines .................................................................................................................................................219
Appendix 4 – Changes Since Last Update ..................................................................................................................................220
Introduction
H&M Lab Manual is a tool for laboratories in securing equal test procedures. The manual includes working
descriptions for both standard test methods and H&M test methods (H&M TM).
Only test results presented by laboratories approved by H&M to perform the mentioned test in H&M Lab Manual
are seen as valid.
The manual does not cover all test methods mentioned in our requirement documents. Test requirements can be
found in H&M Quality Standards & Requirements and in H&M Chemical Restrictions.
H&M Lab Manual will in general be updated in May every year. It is the recipient’s responsibility to ensure that
tests are always performed as per the latest version of the manual.
If nothing else is stated or required the test specimen should be representative of the product intended to be
supplied commercially.
FABRIC AND GARMENT/TEXTILE PRODUCTS TESTS

If a test method has different procedures for testing fabrics and garments/textile products the part only relevant
to garments will have a dotted line in the margin.
CONFIDENTIAL INFORMATION
This manual contains information intended only for the use by the H&M Group and its authorized suppliers, sub-
contractors and material suppliers. The recipient of this manual shall not disclose any of this information to any
person other than the employees who may need to use the information to comply with this manual.
HEADER DESCRIPTION
Following example shows what type of information is given in the header of each test.
Owner Area Document No. Version Page: 1 of 5

GQS Colour Fastness H&M TM CF:02 1.1
(CF) Latest Reviewed:
May, 2014
Effective Date:
Colour Fastness to Bleeding May, 2014
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Effective Until:
Further notice
• Owner:
- GQS = Global Quality Support
- GPCD = Global Product Compliance Department
• Area: Which area the test belongs to (same as chapter)
• Document No: Either H&M test method name or as Test Procedure for a standard test method.
• Version:
- 1.0 = completely new method/description in its first version
- 1.1 = minor change of existing method/description
- 2.0 = major change of existing method/description
- 3.0 = New methods added home products
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Colour Fastness
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General Definitions
CHANGE IN COLOUR
The difference in colour between tested and untested specimen/product.
COLOUR STAINING
How much the colour stains a reference material such as multifibre adjacent fabric.
CROSS STAINING
Staining within a product. From darker to lighter areas or details to main material.
Assessment of Colour Fastness

Two technicians shall assess the test specimens. It they do not have the same assessment and a mean cannot be
calculated (i.e. 3 & 2-3) a third technician should be asked to assess the specimen. The median of the three
individual assessments will then be the result.
In cases where the result is a clear fail or pass a single technician’s evaluation is sufficient for the results.
CROSS STAINING & CHANGE IN COLOUR

• Place the tested specimen as well as the untested specimen on an incline plane with an angle of
approximately 45° in the light box (D65 light).
• Assess the visual contrast between the tested specimen and the untested specimen against the grey
scale. If the assessment is between two grades the result is to be reported as half grade, for example 2-3.
COLOUR STAINING
• Place the tested specimen as well as the untested specimen on an incline plane with an angle of
approximately 45° in the light box (D65 light).
• Assess the visual contrast between the tested multifibre fabric and the untested multifibre fabric against
the grey scale. If the assessment is between two grades the result is to be reported as half grade, for
example 2-3.
• Pls note that the result of all fibres except acetate needs to be evaluated on the multifibre.
State the following information on the test report:

- The worst result is the final result. For colour staining: specify which material of the multifibre fabric that
showed the worst result (except acetate that does not need to be evaluated).
- Any deviation from the test method.
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May, 2014
Effective Date:
May, 2014
Colour Fastness to Artificial Light for Hard Products Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
To ensure that a product will keep its colour when exposed to light during normal use.
EQUIPMENT
• 160 W UV lamp
• Incline plane (fixed or adjustable) with an angle of 45° from a horizontal level
• Grey scale for assessing change in colour (ISO 105-A02)
TEST SPECIMEN
All different colours need to be tested.
Minimum 2 samples have to be tested.
METHOD
1. Place the product on the incline plane. If the product cannot stand alone on the incline plane please use
anything as support so the product can be standing on the plane.
2. Place the lamp right over the product at a distance of 40 cm. See picture below.
3. Let the product be exposed for 48 hours.

4. Check the colour change.
RESULTS
The colour change is assessed in light box (D65 light) using the grey scale for change in colour. No candle shall
exceed the given requirements.
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May, 2014
Effective Date:
May, 2014
Colour Fastness to Bleeding Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
Test if the dye of hair accessories and jewelleries bleed by immersing in water and folding in white cotton cloth.
EQUIPMENT
• Glass bowl
• Standard cotton cloth (same material as for rubbing but larger size)
• Distilled water, grade 3
• Light box with light source D65
• Grey scale for assessing staining (ISO 105-A03)
TEST SPECIMEN
One sample of each colour.
METHOD
1. Cut a piece of white rubbing fabric 20 cm x 20 cm.
2. Pour 500 ml distilled water into a glass bowl.
3. Put the sample into the water for 30 seconds and make sure it is thoroughly soaked.
4. Place the wet hair accessory/jewellery onto the white fabric and fold the fabric around the item. If it is a
terry band, wrap the terry band around the white fabric, just as you wear it in your hair. See pictures below.
5. Let it rest for 5 minutes – do not rub or wring - before unfolding/unwrapping.
6. Let the fabric dry and then assess colour staining.
RESULTS
Assess colour staining, see chapter introduction “Assessment of Colour Fastness”.
Jewellery Terry band
Hair accessory
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GQS Colour Fastness Test procedure for 1.1
(CF) ISO 105-X11 Latest Reviewed:
May, 2014
Effective Date:
May, 2014
Colour Fastness to Hot Pressing Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
To determine the resistance of the colour of textiles to colour change and colour staining when subjected to hot
pressing.
EQUIPMENT
• Heating device according to ISO105-X11
• Smooth heat-resistant sheet, of thickness 3mm to 6mm
• Padding, wool flannel of mass per unit area approx. 260 g/m2
• Undyed, bleached and unmercerized cotton cloth of mass per unit area 100-130 g/m2
• Cotton adjacent fabric, measuring 4 cm x 10 cm
TEST SPECIMEN
Three specimens for each colour and material measuring 4 cm x 10 cm; one for dry pressing, one for damp
pressing, and one for wet pressing.
Labels, badges and trims need to be tested against the fabric of which it is attached as well as against cotton
adjacent fabric.
METHOD
1. Choose pressing temperature according to the ironing symbol on care label (110°C, 150°C or 200°C).
2. Cover the bottom plate of the heating device with the heat resistant sheet, wool flannel padding (use two
layers to make a pad of thickness approx. 3 mm) and the dry undyed cotton cloth.
Dry pressing
1. Place the dry specimen on top of the cotton cloth covering the wool flannel padding.
2. Lower the top plate of the heating device and leave the specimen for 15s at the chosen temperature.
Damp pressing
1. Place the dry specimen on top of the cotton cloth covering the wool flannel padding.
2. Soak a piece of cotton adjacent fabric in distilled water.
3. Squeeze the wet cotton adjacent fabric and place it on top of the dry specimen.
4. Lower the top plate of the heating device and leave the specimen for 15 sec at the chosen temperature.
Wet pressing
1. Soak the specimen and a piece of cotton adjacent fabric in distilled water.
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2. Squeeze them and place them on top of the dry cotton cloth covering the wool flannel padding and
place the wet adjacent fabric on the specimen.
3. Lower the top plate of the heating device and leave the specimen for 15 sec at the chosen temperature.
RESULTS
When the specimens are dry assess the colour staining on the adjacent fabric. Also assess change in colour and
cross staining on all the specimens. See chapter introduction “Assessment of Colour Fastness”.
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May, 2014
Effective Date:
May, 2014
Colour Fastness to Household Laundering Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
Determine the colour fastness of textiles to household laundering.
REFERENCE DOCUMENTS
H&M TM LA:01 Household Laundering and Drying
EQUIPMENT
• Multifibre adjacent fabric, type DW (ISO 105-F10)
• Price Tag Gun
TEST SPECIMEN
One specimen of each colour and material.
If the end product has components like bindings, laces, tapings, etc. in qualities other than the base fabric or parts
in different colours, attach all components to the sample in dimensions that will be used in the end product.
METHOD
1. Cut a multifibre adjacent fabric measuring 4cm x 10cm.
2. Use a price tag gun to attach the multifibre to the specimen. Keep an unwashed product or fabric cutting
for the assessment.
3. Wash the specimen according to the care instruction.
Proceed according to H&M TM LA:01.
4. Line dry the multifibre separately. Dry the specimen according to the care instruction.
RESULTS
Assess cross staining, change in colour and colour staining. See chapter introduction “Assessment of Colour
Fastness”.
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(CF) ISO 105-E04 Latest Reviewed:
May, 2014
Effective Date:
May, 2014
Colour Fastness to Perspiration Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
To determine the resistance of the colour of textiles to the action of artificial human sweat.
EQUIPMENT
• Chemicals for the alkaline solution - see preparation of solutions.
• Chemicals for the acid solution - see preparation of solutions.
• Scale
• pH-meter
• 2 Measuring jugs holding at least 1 litre
• Perspirometer
• 11 acrylic-resin or glass plates
• Flat-bottomed dishes
• Oven, maintained at (37±2)⁰C
PREPARATION OF SOLUTIONS
pH regulator
0.1 mol /l Sodium hydroxide solution (NaOH) - 4.0g NaOH per litre: distilled water.
Alkaline solution, freshly prepared, containing, per litre:
• 0.5g of L-histidine monohydrochloride monohydrate (C6H9O2N3∙HCl∙H2O);

• 5g of sodium chloride (NaCl)
and either
• 5g of disodium hydrogen orthophosphate dodecahydrate (Na2HPO4∙12H2O)
or
• 2.5g disodium hydrogen orthophosphate dihydrate (Na2HPO4∙2H2O)
The solution is brought to pH 8 (±0.2) with 0.1 mol/l sodium hydroxide solution (NaOH).
Acid solution, freshly prepared, containing, per litre:
• 0.5g of L-histidine monohydrochloride monohydrate (C6H9O2N3∙HCl∙H2O)

• 5g of sodium chloride (NaCl)
• 2.2g of sodium dihydrogen orthophosphate dihydrate (NaH2PO4∙2H2O)
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The solution is brought to pH 5.5 (±0.2) with 0.1 mol/l sodium hydroxide solution (NaOH).
TEST SPECIMEN
Two specimens for each colour and material measuring 4cm x 10cm; one for alkaline and one for acid.
All products and parts of products including details such as labels, badges and drawstrings need to be tested.
Both solid and multi-coloured products need to be tested. If the product is multi coloured, make sure all colours
are included in the specimen to be tested. More specimens could be required if the specimens are printed,
striped or have multiple colours. Different parts in contrast colours need to be tested, both against each other and
against the multifibre adjacent fabric. Cut specimens of all colours and stitch them together face side to face side.
If face and back side are different in colour or construction, both face and back side needs to be tested. If sample
is all over printed and backside is strong coloured and visible at face side, no need to test back side against
multifibre adjacent fabric. (No need to test light coloured backsides either.)
If details (including prints) are in contrast colour they need to be tested both against adjacent fabric and the fabric
of which the detail is attached. If not in contrast colour they need to be tested only against adjacent fabric.
METHOD
Test should be performed according to ISO 105-E04 or Chinese standard GB/T 3922, below follows the method
in short. The solutions should be freshly prepared i.e. a new solution should be prepared every day.
1. Cut specimens measuring 4cm x 10cm.

2. Attach a specimen to multifibre adjacent fabric of the same size, by sewing along one of the shorter (4 cm)
sides. The multifibre should be next to the face side.
3. Switch on the oven and preheat pre-heat perspirometer & acrylic plates for 30 min.
4. Place the specimens in a dish with 100 ml of the sweat solutions and thoroughly with the help of glass
rod/acrylic plate to wet specimen and multifibre for 30 min.
5. Pour off the excess solutions from specimen by using wringer /glass.
6. Place each specimen between two glass or acrylic plates and place them in the perspirometer. Each
perspirometer can hold maximum 10 samples. If less, all 11 plates still have to be placed in the perspirometer.
Put a pressure of 12.5 kPa on the perspirometer using the load, lock it and then remove the load. 12.5 kpa
pressures must be evenly distributed on the sample surface. Plates must be parallel to each other, inclination
of plates due to thick and thin (uneven sample surface) surface must be avoided.
7. Place the perspirometer in the oven for 4 hours at (37±2)°C in upright position.
8. Take out the specimens from the oven and perspirometer. Open out each specimen and dry them in room
temperature, not exceeding 60°C, with the specimen only being in contact at the point of the stitching.
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RESULTS
Fastness”.
NOTE
When assessing staining of different parts of contrast coloured products or product with contrast coloured
details, this should be considered as a cross staining.
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(CF) ISO 105-X18 Latest Reviewed:
May, 2014
Effective Date:
May, 2014
Colour Fastness to Phenolic Yellowing Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
To assess the potential of white and light coloured fabrics to yellowing due to contamination by sterically
hindered phenols. This test is to be carried out on fabric which has not yellowed.
Phenolic yellowing is discolouration of textile materials caused by the action of oxides of nitrogen and phenolic
compounds (might be present in storage materials, polyurethane foam, fabric finishes etc.), which lead to the
production of a yellow colour. This method is not intended to deal with other causes of discolouration such as
Optical Brightening Agents deposits, oxidation of fabric lubricants etc.
EQUIPMENT
• Perspirometer
• Incubator or oven, to maintain (50±3)°C
• Test papers 75mm x 100mm (see ISO 105-X18 for definition)
• Control fabric 30mm x 100mm (see ISO 105-X18 for definition)
• Butyl hydroxytoluene (BHT)-free polyethylene film
TEST SPECIMEN
Two specimens for each colour and material measuring 3cm x 10cm. For narrow fabrics a single strip of material
measuring 10 cm in length is enough.
Products that contain polyurethane foam, such as padded bras are especially risky, as they are products packed
in plastic bags and/or stored under polluted conditions (e.g. bad ventilation). Products subject to treatment at high
temperatures such as heat setting and moulding are also at higher risk.
METHOD
1. Using a ruler and scissors and without marking the fabric, cut two single layers of the fabric to be tested,
each measuring 3cm x 10cm.
2. Take one test paper for each sample. Fold it in half along the 10 cm axis and place the sample inside, making
a sandwich.
3. Do the same with the control fabric
4. Place each sandwich between two glass plates so that each sandwich is separated.
5. Place all glass plates on top of each other. One perspirometer can hold 5 samples + 1 control fabric (totally 7
glass plates). If less than 5 samples are tested 7 plates should still be in the stack.
6. Wrap the stack firmly in three layers of BHT free polyethylene film and seal with adhesive tape to create an
airtight package.
7. Place the package in the perspirometer, apply a pressure of 12.5 kPa (=5 kg), lock it and then remove the
load.
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8. Place the test device on its side in the oven for 16 hours at (50±3)°C in upright position.
9. Remove the package and allow it to cool before unwrapping.
RESULTS
Assess the test specimens within 30 minutes of unwrapping. Start the assessment with the control fabric and
make sure it has yellowed to at least a grade 3 using the grey scale. If not, the test has not been carried out
successfully, and needs to be repeated.
Assess colour staining, see chapter introduction “Assessment of Colour Fastness”.
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GQS Colour Fastness Test procedure 2.0
(CF) for ISO 105-X12 Latest Reviewed:
May, 2014
Effective Date:
May, 2014
Colour Fastness to Rubbing Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
To determine a coloured material’s resistance to rubbing.
EQUIPMENT
• Crockmeter (automatically or manually operated; complying to ISO 105-X12)
 or extra rubbing finger (accessories only)
• Cotton rubbing cloth (5cm x 5cm)
• Pipette
TEST SPECIMEN
One specimen for each colour and material.
Test should be performed both before and after 1 time wash. If the product is unlined the reverse side should also
be tested.
METHOD
DRY RUBBING
1. Place the test specimen lengthwise into the testing device and make sure that the surface is not creased. If
testing a multi-coloured sample, make sure that the test specimen is positioned in a way that all colours are
rubbed during the test.
2. Place the rubbing cloth in the testing device. The warp or weft of the rubbing cloth should be perpendicular
to the test direction.
3. Rub 10 times in an even pace, approx. 1 cycle per second.
4. Remove the rubbing cloth and the specimen.
Wet Rubbing
Follow the procedure for dry rubbing but add one drop of water with the pipette to the rubbing cloth before
placing it in the crockmeter.
Dry the rubbing cloth before evaluation.
Rubbing Procedure for Accessory

A. Test according to normal procedure if:
a. the accessory fit in the machine (see examples below)
b. you have access to cuttings from bulk material and no extra treatments are done to the finished
product
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B. Accessory that due to shape and size cannot fit in the crockmeter should be tested as follows.
Change point 1 and 2 in the normal procedure for rubbing;
1. Hold the sample firmly in place by hand.
2. Place the rubbing cloth on an unfastened crocking finger.
RESULTS
• Place the rubbing cloth in the light box (D65 light) at an incline plane with an angle of approx. 45°.
• Evaluate the staining using the grey scale. Three unstained rubbing cloths should be placed under the
rubbing cloth that is evaluated.
• Carefully remove loose fibres on the rubbing cloth’s surface before evaluation.
• The result is the grey scale rating closest to the staining of the rubbing cloth.
• Any dark circle formed around the test area should be discarded.
NOTE
Note 1. Do not remove the rubbing finger from the crockmeter since this can affect the calibration of the machine.
Examples, how to perform dry rubbing on different accessories:
Mesh Qualities
Stretch the fabric using double layers. Perform a

normal rubbing test.
Decoration Bands for Bows etc.
Normal rubbing test using a board: Fasten a band

minimum length 50 cm lengthwise on a board with
tape or stapler according to below picture. Perform
a normal rubbing test.
Pearls and Jewelleries not Made of Textile
Use a loose rubbing finger and rub the

pearls/bracelets 10 times with light pressure.
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May, 2014
Effective Date:
May, 2014
Colour Fastness to Oil Rubbing Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
To determine a coloured material’s resistance to oil rubbing in order to secure colour staining in contact with oily
food and liquids.
EQUIPMENT
• Crockmeter
• Cotton rubbing cloth (5cm x 5cm)
• Olive oil, or similar oil used for cooking
TEST SPECIMEN
One specimen for each colour and material. Test shall be performed both before and after 1 wash.
METHOD
1. Place the test specimen lengthwise into the testing device. If testing a multi-coloured sample, make sure
that the test specimen is positioned in a way that all colours are rubbed during the test.
2. Add one drop of oil onto a rubbing cloth and place the rubbing cloth in the testing device. The warp or weft
of the rubbing cloth should be perpendicular to the test direction.
3. Rub 10 times in an even pace, approx. 1 cycle per second.
4. Remove the rubbing cloth and the specimen.
5. Dry the rubbing cloth before evaluation.
RESULTS
• Place both the rubbing cloth and the test specimen in light box (D65 light) and
• Place the rubbing cloth and the test specimen in the light box (D65 light) at an incline plane with an angle
of approx. 45° and evaluate the discolouration.
• Three unstained rubbing cloths should be placed under the rubbing cloth that is evaluated.
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• Any dark circle formed around the test area of the rubbing cloth should be discarded.
Child’s bib after wearing and eating.
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(CF) GB/T 18886 Latest Reviewed:
May, 2014
Effective Date:
May, 2014
Colour Fastness to Saliva Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
To determine the resistance of the colour of textiles to saliva according to GB/T 18886.
EQUIPMENT
• Perspirometer
• Oven, maintained at (37±2)⁰C
• Chemicals for the saliva solution (see preparation of solution)
• Scale
PREPARATION OF SOLUTION
Saliva solution, freshly prepared, containing per litre distilled water:
3.0g Lactic acid (CH3∙CH(OH)∙COOH)

0.2g Carbamide (H2N∙CO∙NH2)
4.5g Sodium Chloride (NaCl)
0.3g Potassium Chloride (KCl)
0.3g Sodium Sulphate (Na2SO4)
0.4g Ammonium Chloride (NH4Cl)
No need to bring the saliva solution to specific pH.
TEST SPECIMEN
Two specimens for each colour and material measuring 4 cm x 10 cm.
Details such as labels, badges and drawstrings also need to be tested. If the product is multi-coloured, make sure
all colours tested. More test specimens could be required if the product is printed, striped or includes several
colours.
If details (including prints) are in contrast colour these need to be tested both against multifibre adjacent fabric
and the fabric of which the detail is attached. If not in contrast colour, they need to be tested only against
multifibre adjacent fabric.
METHOD
1. Cut specimens measuring 4cm x 10cm.
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2. Attach a specimen to multifibre adjacent fabric of the same size, by sewing along one of the shorter (4 cm)
sides. The multifibre adjacent fabric should be next to the face side of the fabric.
RESULTS
Fastness”.
NOTE
*To weigh the specimen and multiply the weight by 50 is an easy way to get correct ratio. E.g. for a specimen
which weight 2g, 100ml solution is needed.
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(CF) ISO 105-E01 Latest Reviewed:
May, 2014
Effective Date:
May, 2014
Colour Fastness to Water Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
To determine the resistance of the colour of textiles to immersion in water according to ISO 105-E01.
EQUIPMENT
• Perspirometer
• Acrylic-resin or glass plates
• Oven, maintained at (37 ±2)°C
TEST SPECIMEN
One specimen for each colour and material measuring 4 cm x 10 cm.
All products and parts of a product including details such as labels, badges and drawstrings need to be tested.
Both solid and multi-coloured products need to be tested. If the product is multi-coloured, make sure all colours
are included in the specimen to be tested. More specimens might be required if the specimen is printed, striped
or have multiple colours. Different parts in contrast colours need to be tested, both against each other and
against the multifibre. Cut specimens of all colours and stitch them together face side to face side.
If face and back side are different in colour or construction, both face and back side needs to be tested. If sample
is all over printed and backside is strong coloured and visible at face side, no need to test back side against
multifibre. (No need to test light coloured backsides either.)
If details (including prints) are in contrast colour they need to be tested both against multifibre and the fabric of
which the detail is attached. If not in contrast colour they need to be tested only against multifibre.
METHOD
1. Cut a specimens measuring 4cm x 10cm.
2. Attach a specimen to multifibre of the same size, by sewing along one of the shorter (4 cm) sides. The
multifibre should be next to the face side.
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RESULTS
Fastness”.
NOTE
When assessing staining of different parts of contrast coloured products or product with contrast coloured
details, this should be considered as a cross staining.
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(CF) AATCC 163 Latest Reviewed:
May, 2014
Effective Date:
May, 2014
Dye Transfer in Storage Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
To determine the resistance to dye transfer in storage according to AATCC 163, option 1 (with modification).
Modification from AATCC 163, option 1:

ISO or GB multifibre adjacent fabric, different size of specimen, different load.
The storage of products made with component parts of more than one shade sometimes results in the transfer of
dye from one area to another, normally from the darker to the lighter shade. This phenomenon is distinct from
sublimation because it occurs below the sublimation temperature of dyes as well as with non-subliming dyes.
Dye transfer occurs when products are folded with different shades in intimate contact with each other. Normally
the amount of dye transferred is intensified when moisture is present, and thus the problem is more severe during
warm, humid weather or when products are steamed immediately before storage. Storage in plastic bags tends
to maintain the initial relative humidity of the product environment and can aggravate or reduce transfer
depending on the condition of the fabric when it enters the bag.
EQUIPMENT
• Perspirometer
• Plastic bag, polyethylene, large enough to contain the perspirometer
• Glass beaker having the capacity to hold 50 ml of water
TEST SPECIMEN
One specimen for each colour and material measuring 4cm x 10cm.
All contrast coloured (when compared to the product it is attached on) textile labels, textile badges, other textile
trims, prints as well as leather details need to be tested. The labels/badges/trims need to be tested both against
multifibre and the fabric of which it is attached to (referred to as “fabric sample”).
METHOD
1. Cut specimens measuring 4cm x 10cm of the each sample to be tested.
2. Cut the multifibre and fabric sample in the same size.
3. Immerse the multifibre and fabric sample in distilled water at room temperature (24±3)°C.
4. Prepare a sandwich with the test specimen between pre-wet multifibre and the pre-wet fabric sample. See
picture below.
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Fabric sample 10cm
Specimen
4cm
Multifibre
Put a pressure of 12.5 kPa on the perspirometer using the load, lock it and then remove the load.
6. Enclose the perspirometer in a polyethylene bag along with a glass beaker containing at least 50 ml distilled
water to maintain high relative humidity in the polyethylene bag.
7. Let the perspirometer stand in upright position at room temperature (24±3)°C for 48 hours.
8. Take out the specimens from the perspirometer. Open out each specimen and dry them well with the
specimen only being in contact at the point of the stitching.
RESULTS
Fastness”.
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May, 2014
Effective Date:
May, 2014
OBA Test (to avoid yellowing of sole) Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
To detect OBA in rubber soles, this can cause yellowing of the sole when the shoe is exposed to shop light.
EQUIPMENT
• Light box with UV-light
DEFINITIONS
OBA Optical Brightening Agent
TEST SPECIMEN
White and pastel coloured rubber soles (vulcanized and injection shoes).
METHOD
Place the shoe in the light box and turn on the UV-light.
RESULTS
If the sole is dark (example to the right) it does not contain OBA and the product pass the test.
Not OK OK
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May, 2014
Effective Date:
May, 2014
Anti-yellowing Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
To detect if a plastic/rubber material has the tendency to turn yellow when exposed to light.
Suitable for testing following materials in white or pastel colours: PU, rubber, TPR, PU, TPU, pigmented and coated
leather
EQUIPMENT
• Test chamber with two 15W UV-lights (the UV light
should be replaced after 500 hours)
• Anti-dazzling sheet (opaque sheet (all the wavelengths
of light projected rate of 0))
•
TEST SPECIMEN
Three (3) specimens for each colour and material measuring 62mm x 12mm. The thickness must not be greater
than 5 mm.
METHOD
1. Use an anti-dazzling sheet to cover half of the test sample.
2. Put the sample on the tray with the test side towards the light source.
3. Place the test sample 25 cm from the UV-lamp and expose it for 6 hours.
RESULTS
Evaluate the colour change by comparing to the covered control area. The change is measured using the grey
scale for change in colour.
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Laundering
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GQS Laundering (LA) H&M TM LA:01 2.0
Latest Reviewed:
November, 2014
Effective Date:
May, 2014
Household Laundering and Drying Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
To wash a product/fabric as part of another test.
EQUIPMENT
• Programmable Automatic Washing Machine, one of below options:
- Electrolux W455H with H&M card with H&M wash programs (1X01)
- Electrolux W555H with H&M card with H&M wash programs (1X01)
- Electrolux FOM 71 CLS with H&M card with H&M wash programs (1X01) even though maximum
spinning speed is 1100 rpm.
- Other front loading washing machine that fulfils the wash program specifications under ‘method’
• Tumble dryer: Brand is optional but temperature settings high (70°C) and low 50 (°C) are mandatory.
• Domestic steam iron and ironing board
• Drying rack, allowing a horizontal placement of the specimen for flat dry
• 3 tennis balls - for down products only
• Laundry bag (net bag) - for products with boning and/or wire or with “use a laundry bag” on care label.
• Washing detergent: (fulfilling H&M Chemical Restrictions and preferably phosphate free)
- Detergent for wool, silk and down products: ‘Y3’. If not available use similar local detergent.
- Detergent for all other products: ‘Ariel Colour’. If not available use similar local detergent.
TEST SPECIMEN
Prepare the test specimen according to the test you want to perform.
METHOD
1. Place the specimen in the washing machine and choose wash treatment as per care instruction. If there are
any extra care instructions, they must also be followed.
- Products with boning and/or wire 1: Use a laundry bag (net bag).
- Products sold as set (e.g. Pyjamas):
· Wash all pieces of the set together if they are not in contrast colours.
· If the pieces of the set are contrast coloured, wash them separately.
Wash Program Specification
ISO symbols Explanation to Maximum spinning
H&M wash
ISO the Symbols Time Water Consumption speed (mechanical
programs
3758:2012 action)
- Maximum
washing
H&M NORMAL 1300 rpm
temperature 47 min 65 liters
60°C 6 min
60°C
- Normal process
- Maximum
H&M NORMAL 1300 rpm
washing 42 min 65 liters
40°C 6 min
temperature
1Products with wire and/or boning shall be tested both in machine hand wash (H&M WOOL 40°C) and machine
wash 40 degrees, even though the care instruction is set as hand wash.
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40°C
- Normal process
- Maximum
washing
H&M SYNTHETIC 1100 rpm
40°C 1,5 min
40°C
- Mild process
- Maximum
washing
H&M SYNTHETIC 850 rpm
30°C 1,5 min
30°C
- Mild process
- Hand wash
- Maximum
550 rpm
washing H&M WOOL 40°C 26 min 33 liters
1,5 min
temperature
40°C
2. Fill the machine with the correct amount of detergent.

Product Detergent Amount
Wool products, ≥20% wool
25 ml/product, max 50 ml
Silk products, ≥ 50% silk Detergent for wool, silk and down products
(for 2 specimens or more)
Down jackets
10g /product, max 40g
All other Detergent all other products
(for 4 specimens or more)
3. Dry the specimen according to the care instruction.

Line Dry
Remove specimen from the washing machine and hang it on the drying rack. Remove creases by hand
without deforming the specimen.
Dry Flat/ Reshape and Dry Flat

Remove specimen from washing machine and lay it horizontally on the drying rack. Remove creases by hand
without deforming the specimen.
Tumble Dry
Remove the specimen directly from the washing machine after finished wash program and place it into the
tumble dryer. Select the respective program and start the drying process.
Down products: Place 3 tennis balls in the tumble dryer to distribute the down evenly.
Tumble dry until down is completely dry.
Temperature Model Temperature Model

ISO Symbols Symbol Explanation
T4130 C T4130
- Tumble dry medium

- Normal temperature
- Exhaust temperature max. 80 ºC High Temp.: 65 ºC High Temp.: 70 ºC
Medium Temp: 60 ºC Medium Temp: 60 ºC
Low Temp.:50 ºC Low Temp.:50 ºC
- Tumble dry low
- Drying at lower temperature
- Exhaust temperature max. 60ºC
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If the specimen is woven it must be ironed according to the care instruction. Always use steam when
ironing with 2 or 3 dots.
If the specimen is ≤130gsm knitted viscose it must be measured both before and after ironing.
If the specimen is knitted it must be stretched after washing and drying, as per instructions below:
a. Let the specimen dry completely prior to stretching.
b. Stretch each point gently once. Always start with the length and continue with the width.
RESULTS
Evaluate the result according to the test you are performing.
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NOTE
How to dry the specimen if several washes are performed in a row (e.g. appearance after 5 times wash)
If the care instruction states “tumble dry” the sample needs to be tumble dried between each wash process.
If the care instruction states “line dry” or “dry flat” the sample does not need to be dried in-between the wash
processes.
Can several samples be washed together?

If household laundering and drying is only performed in order to assess distinct surface change, several samples
can be washed together.
If household laundering and drying is performed as part of other tests where colour fastness is to be evaluated
the samples have to be washed separately. This is due to the risk of cross staining between the specimens which
would give incorrect results.
Exception for small textile accessories: As 5 time wash is considered to determine pilling performance of
woven & knitted small accessories products, following has to be done during 5 time wash:
If household laundering and drying is performed in order to assess distinct surface change as well colour fastness,
the samples have to be washed with at least 5 pcs of ballast of cotton or cotton/polyester.
Ballast Specification: Hemmed piece of 100%cotton bleached fabric 188 ± 10 g/𝑚2 of dimension of (92±5) cm x
(92±5) cm or 50% cotton/50% polyester plain woven fabric with 155 ± 10 g/𝑚2 of dimension of (92±5) cm x
(92±5) cm.
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Latest Reviewed:
May, 2014
Effective Date:
May, 2014
Appearance after Wash or Dry Clean Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
To assess the change in appearance of textiles after cleaning treatments such as household laundering or dry
cleaning.
REFERENCE DOCUMENTS
ISO 3175-2 Textiles – Professional care, dry cleaning and wet cleaning of fabrics and garments
TEST SPECIMEN
If the end product has components like binding, lace, tape, etc. in qualities other than the base fabric or parts in
different colours; attach all components to the sample in dimensions that will be used in the end product.
METHOD
1. Treat the specimen according to the care instruction.
- Household Laundering: Proceed according to H&M TM LA:01.
When performing this test after multiple washes:
If the drying instruction is tumble dry, dry the product between each washing cycle.
If nothing else is specified in the requirement and the care instruction is line dry, wash the
product 5 times in a row.
- Dry clean: Send the specimen for commercial dry cleaning. Follow ISO 3175-2.
RESULTS
The tested specimen is assessed against an untested specimen.
Assess change in appearance visually with regards to the major changes stated in H&M Quality Standards &
Requirements.
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Latest Reviewed:
May, 2014
Effective Date:
Dimensional Stability to Household Laundering or Dry May, 2014
Effective Until:
Cleaning Further notice
PURPOSE
Determine the dimensional stability (shrinkage) of textiles to household laundering or dry cleaning.
REFERENCE DOCUMENTS
ISO 3175-2 Textiles – Professional care, dry cleaning and wet cleaning of fabrics and garments
EQUIPMENT
• Soft measurement tape, in mm and longer than the longest dimension of the specimen to be measured
• Measuring table, large enough to lay out complete product
• Waterproof pen
TEST SPECIMEN
This test can be combined with tests for twisting, appearance after 5 times wash and colour fastness to
household laundering. See the respective test method for how to prepare the test specimen.
One specimen for each colour and material measuring at least 50x50 cm.
If the end product has components like bindings, laces, tapings, etc. in qualities other than the base fabric or parts
in different colours, attach all components to the sample in dimensions that will be used in the end product.
When samples are cut from roll following points must be considered:
- Avoid taking specimens from within 1m of the end of the roll or fabric piece
- Avoid taking specimens where there are folding creases (often occurs in the middle of the fabric)
METHOD
1. Make sure that the sample is completely flat and without creases.
2. Measure the specimen as follows:
Fabric Wash Test

- Take 3 measurements in each direction (length and width). Mark the measuring points with a
washproof pen.
- The measurements should be 50 cm long. If this is not possible it is ok to make them shorter but not
shorter than 35 cm.
Garment/ Product Wash Test

- Measure the specimen in both length and width direction as per sketches under “Measurement
Instructions” under NOTE.
- Mark the measurements of difficult styles with a washproof pen in order to find them after wash.
3. Wash and dry the specimen according to care instructions.
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Household Laundering
- Follow the procedure described in H&M TM LA:01.
Dry Cleaning
- Send the specimen for commercial dry cleaning. Follow ISO 3175-2. The dry cleaner should treat the
specimen according to the extra care instruction if applicable.
4. Measure the specimen at the same points as before wash.
RESULTS
Dimensional Change
Calculate the dimensional change of all measurements:
Calculation in cm Calculation in %
Xt − Xo
Xt − Xo 𝑥 100
xo
Xo= measurement before wash in cm

Xt= measurement after wash in cm
Use a minus sign (-) to indicate shrinkage and a plus sign (+) to indicate growth.

- Sketch showing measuring points
- Care instruction
- Results for all individual measurements before and after wash in cm.
- Dimensional change in cm and %.
- Average result of measurements in length and width direction in %.
- If the average is within the requirement but single measurements are not, this has to be stated
accordingly under comments.
Example: “Shrinkage of sleeve length is too high”.
- Any deviation from above test method
NOTE
Measurement Instructions
Sketches exist for the following products:
Garment Underwear/ Socks and Tights Accessories Babywear

Swimwear
Shirts & Blouses Boxers & Shorts Ladies leggings & tights Gloves & Baby bodies
Cardigans Briefs Men & Ladies and children socks Mittens Baby wrap tops
Sweaters Women Men’s socks Caps & Hats Baby overalls & Rompers
Strap tops & Bras & Bikini Tops Baby bib trousers
Tank tops Swimsuits
Jackets
Dresses
Trousers
Skirts
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GARMENT
Shirts & blouses
Length
1. Centre back neck seam to bottom edge
2. Below collar stand, over front placket to bottom edge
3. From shoulder seam to bottom of sleeve edge
Width
1. Straight across the chest over nearest button, from edge to
edge
2. Straight across over last button, from edge to edge
Cardigans
Length
1. From centre back below binding to bottom edge
2. From top of first button, over front placket to bottom edge
Width
1. Straight across chest over nearest button, from edge to edge
T-shirt
Length
1. From centre back neckline below binding to bottom edge
2. From centre front neckline below binding to bottom edge
Width
1. Straight across chest, 1cm below sleeve hole from edge to
edge
2. Along bottom part from edge to edge
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Strap tops & Tank tops
Length
Width
1. Straight across chest, 1cm below sleeve hole from edge to
edge
Sweaters
Length
1. From centre back neckline to bottom edge
2. From centre front neckline to bottom edge
3. From neck seam to bottom of sleeve edge
Width
1. Straight across chest, 1 cm below sleeve hole from edge to
edge
Jackets
Length
1. From centre back neck seam to bottom edge
2. From top to bottom edge
Width
1. Straight across the chest over nearest button, from edge to
edge
Dresses
Length
Width
1. Straight across chest, 1 cm below sleeve hole from edge to
edge
Width with darts: Below darts straight across chest, from edge
to edge
2. Straight across waist, from edge to edge
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May 2016
Trousers
Length
1. Approximately in the mid of leg, from top of the waist to
bottom of leg
2. 1 cm below crotch, along the inner seam to bottom of leg
Width
1. Along the edge of waistband, from edge to edge
2. 1 cm below crotch, straight across thigh from edge to edge
3. Along the edge of leg opening, from edge to edge
Skirts
Length
1. From centre back to bottom edge
2. From centre front to bottom edge
Width
1. Along the edge of waistband, from edge to edge
2. Along bottom from edge to edge
Skirts with slit : Straight across above slit from edge to edge
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UNDERWEAR/ SWIMWEAR
Boxers & Shorts
Length
1. Approximately in the mid of leg, from waist to bottom of leg
2. Along the front seam, from top of waist to crotch seam
Width
1. Along the edge of released waistband, from edge to edge
Briefs Men & Women
Length
1. Along folded edge at centre front, from top of waist to back
crotch seam
2. Along folded edge at centre back, from top of waist to back
crotch seam
Width
1. Along the edge of released waistband
2. Approximately in the mid of back (mark with a wash proof
pen) straight across back from edge to edge
Bras & Bikini Tops
Bras
Length
1. Along bottom of the edge
Width
1. From bottom of cup over highest point to front edge of cup
Bikini Top
Length
1. Along bottom edge of cup
Width
1. From bottom of cup over highest point to front edge of cup
Swimsuits
Length
1. Folded, from centre front neckline to crotch seam
2. Folded, from centre back neckline to crotch seam
Width
1. 1 cm below sleeve hole, from edge to edge
On swimsuits with deep neck drop at back:
Measure at back, below neck drop from edge to edge
2. 1 cm above leg opening, from edge to edge
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May 2016
SOCKS & TIGHTS - LADIES LEGGINGS & TIGHTS
Before wash
Measure the tights/leggings with measurement tape:
Length
1. Approximately in the mid of leg, from top of waist to middle of
heel
2. From the middle of heel to edge of toe
Width
1. Along the edge of (released) waistband, from edge to edge
After wash
Measure the tights/leggings with measurement tape as described above.
Afterwards, check the tights/leggings on volumetric form as described
below:
Different types which can be checked by volumetric form

1. Tights with ironed foot
2. Full length leggings
3. Cropped leggings
1. 2. 3.
How to put the leggings or tights on a volumetric form

It is very important to put the tights/ leggings on properly.
Pull them down to the marking “A” cm from bottom.
Medium (normal) body rise Hipster (lower) body rise

- size XS A = cm 18 - size XS A = cm 20
- size S A = cm 18.5 - size S A = cm 20.5
- size M A = cm 19 - size M A = cm 21
- size L A = cm 19.5 - size L A = cm 21.5
- size XL A = cm 19,5 - size XL A = cm 21,5
Regular (higher) body rise Mama tights

- size XS A = cm 16 - size XS A = cm 14
- size S A = cm 16.5 - size S A = cm 14,5
- size M A = cm 17 - size M A = cm 15
- size L A = cm 17.5 - size L A = cm 15,5
- size XL A = cm 15,5
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The crotch has to fit all the way down on the volumetric form.
½ calf markings for cropped leggings

Placement for ½ calf = “B”
- size XS B = 31 cm
- size S B = 33 cm
- size M B = 35 cm
- size L B = 37 cm
- size XL B = 36 cm
How to check the body rise

Pull the tights/ leggings down to the screws to check how stretchy they are, but not longer.
They waistline should go back close to the marking when let it go.
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How to check the crotch with regular/over lock seam
The crotch should have a nice shape as the picture Check if the seams are strong enough by pushing by hand, it must not
above. break (this is valid for regular/over lock seam).
How to check the elasticity of the quality

You should be able to pull/ stretch out approximately 6-7 cm.
It is valid for all kind of tights, except for shape-up and support tights, which can
stretch out 1.5-2 cm maximum and jacquard tights which can be stretched out 3-4 cm.
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How to check the leg length
When the tights are placed on the volumetric form you will have to keep the crotch down by placing a hand at the crotch.
The leg has to be able to be stretched out approximate 8-12 cm.
Check the toe seam

The seam at the toe has to be secured.
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How to check the twisting
You can check if the legs are twisted when the tights are placed on the volumetric form.
Picture to the left is correct and picture to the right is not OK.
SOCKS & TIGHTS – LADIES & CHILDRENS SOCKS
Before wash
Measure the sock with measurement tape:
Length
1. From shaft edge to middle of heel
2. From middle of heel to edge of toe
Width
1. Over cuff from edge to edge
2. Across foot from edge to edge
After wash
Measure the sock with measurement tape as described
above.
Check the sock on dummy as described below:
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For children’s socks, use dummies according to size.
For ladies socks, use dummies:

Size 36/38: Dummy 34/36
Size 39/41: Dummy 37/39
1. Put the sock on the dummy.

2. Make sure that the heel seam is in the correct
position. Adjust if necessary. Heel seam
3. If the sock sits too tight on the dummy choose a
smaller sized dummy.
4. If the sock sits too loose on the dummy choose a
bigger sized dummy. Sock is too tight
5. Note the size difference on the report. on dummy
6. Adjust the heel seam before measuring.
Sock is too loose

on dummy
Adjust the heel seam

before measuring
Let the sock be relaxed on dummy before deciding the

measurement. Not too stretched and not too loose.
The measuring tape on dummy shows how long the shaft is

from the heel.
Check the fitting of the sock while it is still on dummy. Write

your comments in the report.
Wash and dry the sock as per care instruction.

Measure in same way after wash as before wash.
SOCKS & TIGHTS - MEN’S SOCKS
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Before wash
Measure the sock with measurement tape:
Length
3. From shaft edge to middle of heel
4. From middle of heel to edge of toe
Width
3. Over cuff from edge to edge
4. Across foot from edge to edge
After wash
Measure the sock with measurement tape as described above.
ACCESSORIES
Gloves
1. Length - from top of middle finger to bottom
2. Width - from edge to edge
Mittens
1. Length - from top to bottom
2. Width - from edge to edge
Caps & Hats

A.
1. Length – from seam to seam at centre front
2. Width – on the sweatband inside the hat
B.
1. Length - from top to bottom at centre front
2. Width - on the sweatband inside the hat
C.
1. Length - from top to bottom
2. Width - from edge to edge at bottom
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BABYWEAR
Baby bodies
Length
1. From centre front, below binding to bottom
edge
2. From centre back, below binding to bottom
edge
Width
1. Straight across chest, 1 cm below sleeve hole
from edge to edge
2. Straight across above leg opening, from edge to
edge
How to measure length (length points 1 and 2 on sketch):

- Un-button the crotch
- Fold the body at middle front resp. back length (Pic 1)
- Follow the curve with the measurement tape (Pic 2 & Pic 3).
Pic 2
Pic 1
Pic 3
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Baby wrap tops
Length
1. From centre back neckline below binding, to
bottom edge
2. From top of raglan seam to bottom edge
3. From neckline below binding to bottom of
sleeve edge
Width
4. Straight across back, 1 cm below sleeve hole,
from seam to seam
5. Along bottom at back, from seam to seam
Baby overalls & Rompers
Length
1. At front from mid of shoulder seam to bottom
edge of leg
1. From centre front neckline below binding to
crotch seam
If the products has buttons:
From a top button, along the binding to crotch
seam
Width
1. Straight across chest, 1 cm below sleeve hole from
edge to edge
If the product has buttons:
Straight across chest over nearest button, from
edge to edge
2. Straight across seat from edge to edge
If the product has buttons:
Straight across seat over nearest button, from
edge to edge
Baby bib trousers
Length
1. From top of bib to bottom of leg
2. From centre top of bib to crotch seam
Width
3. On bib part along waistband, from edge to edge
4. Straight across seat from edge to edge
5. Along the edge of leg opening from edge to edge
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May 2016
Latest Reviewed:
May, 2014
Effective Date:
May, 2014
Twisting (Spirality) Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
Determine twisting of textiles after washing or dry cleaning.
REFERENCE DOCUMENTS
EQUIPMENT
• Soft measurement tape, in mm and longer than the longest dimension of the specimen to be measured
• Wash proof pen
TEST SPECIMEN
If the end product has components like binding, lace, tape, etc. in qualities other than the base fabric or parts in
different colours; attach all components to the sample in dimensions that will be used in the end product.
Specimen preparation, fabric wash test (same as for dimensional stability):

- Cut a piece of fabric measuring at least 100cm x 50cm. Edges of the sample are to be parallel to the length
and width of the fabric.
- Form an open-ended “bag” by folding and stitching at three sides
- Turn the seams to the inside

- If the end product will have a lining, sew a “bag“ with one layer of shell fabric and one layer of lining
When samples are cut from roll following points must be considered:
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- Avoid taking specimens from within 1m of the end of the roll or fabric piece
- Avoid taking specimens where there are folding creases (often occurs in the middle of the fabric)
Specimen preparation, garment

Place the garment flat on a table without forcing it into its shape. If the side seams are at the edge they will be
used as measurement points. If the side seams are not at the edges, mark the edges with a waterproof pen in
order to be able to identify twisting after wash.
METHOD
1. Wash and dry the specimen according to H&M TM LA:01.
2. Place the specimen flat on a table without forcing it into its shape.
3. Measure the distance at bottom hem from side A to side B.
Twisted side seam
Side of relaxed garment after wash
4. Measure the length from side B to seam B’ (or the marked measuring pointif the side seams have not been
at the edges before washing). Do the same for the other side.
Sketches and examples on how to measure twisting for tops and trousers in different designs can be found in
the notes at the end of this test method.
RESULTS
• Calculate the twisting for both sides, as follows:
Calculation in %
𝐵′ 𝐵
𝑥100
𝐴𝐵
B’B = the distance between point B and point B’

AB = the distance between point A and point B
• Calculate the average of the two sides.

- Sketch of the specimen
- Description of the specimen.
For example: Solid , plain, pattern-matched stripes, pockets, plackets, all over prints
- Care instruction
- Test result
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- Individual measurements
NOTE
Example Tops
1. Distance at bottom hem from seam to edge = 5 cm.
2. Divide 5 cm with total width at bottom hem (50 cm) and write down the result in percentages (10 %).
Before wash After wash
Example Trousers
1. Measure the cm at bottom hem from seam to edge = 2 cm.
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Example Trousers with Smaller Front Part on One Side
1. Mark the edges with a wash proof pen.
2. If any difference after wash, measure from your mark to the edge at bottom hem = 2 cm.
Example Trousers with Smaller Front Part on two Sides

1. Mark edges with a wash proof pen.
2. If any difference after wash, measure from your mark to the edge at bottom hem = 2 cm.
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GQS Laundering H&M TM LA:05 1:0
Approval Date:
November, 2014
Effective Date:
November, 2014
Laminated Foam Cup Development Stage Wash Test Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
To assess the change in appearance of foam cup in development stage after household laundering. Note this test
is not performed on finished product, but only on foam cups in development.
DEFINITIONS
Foam cup Moulded bra cup in laminated foam. No shell fabric.
Specimen One (1) pair of bra cup, no shell fabric.
Shape distortion When the foam cup changes shape and/or

collapses in wash.
EQUIPMENT
• Programmable washing machine or washing card as described in H&M TM LA:01.
• Power detergent as described in H&M TM LA:01.
• Net laundry cages:
• Drying rack
TEST SPECIMEN
• Sizes to be tested:
- 75B always
- 85F if in the size range
- 75D and 85D are optional sizes based on quality risk assessment.
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• Prepare three (3) specimens per style and size, or as agreed between parties.
METHOD
1. Use detergent as is stated in H&M TM LA:01.
2. Set up the machine at 40C normal wash:
ISO symbols
H&M wash programs Description Time
ISO 3758:2005
Normal wash program at 40ºC
H&M NORMAL 40°C 42 min
3. Wash one (1) specimen separate in a laundry cage.

4. Wash only one (1) specimen in the washing machine at a time. No dummy load.
5. After the washing program is finished, don’t leave the wash in the machine, but remove immediately.
Remove the washed specimen out of the laundry cage and flat dry for at least two hours over the drying
rack. (pic 1)
Pic 1
6. Wash and dry each specimen five (5) times.
7. Repeat procedure five (5) times. Do the same for all specimens.
8. After the last wash, let the specimens dry completely, flat dry on drying rack. Evaluate.
RESULTS
Assess the result from the result assessment scale found below.
NOTE
Specimens shall be submitted in a box with tissue paper inside the cups to avoid additional wrinkles and shape
distortion.
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PERFORMANCE OF EVALUATION
The examination of the washed foam cups shall be performed in light cabinet with Day light (D65)-light.
Three aspects shall be evaluated for each specimen; delamination, shape distortion and wrinkles on inner and
outer lamination.
ASSESSMENT SCALE
DELAMINATION
The specimen fails if there is any delamination, e.g. bubbling on lamination or peeling of the lamination from the
foam of any kind.
For the specimen to pass there shall be no delamination anywhere on the specimen.
SHAPE DISTORTION
If there is any shape distortion that will affect fit the specimen fails.
WRINKLES ON INNER LAMINATION

There are two (2) assessment scales for WRINKLES ON INNER LAMINATION, depending on foam quality and
cup style.
Please pay close attention to their differences and use the correct scale.
For:
• Padded cup
• OP foam / Old foam / Hard foam / TC Lamination
• Micro lamination/100% polyester lamination
Levels 5, 4: Pass
Levels 3,2,1: Fail
For:
• Inbuilt cookie/E+F cup

• Soft foam / Memory foam / Hybrid foam
• Brushed lamination
• Any exceptional cases
Levels 5, 4, 3: Pass
Levels 2,1: Fail
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H&M Lab Manual 59
May 2016
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May 2016
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WRINKLES OUTER LAMINATION – all styles
PASS: No wrinkles on bust point. Equal or less general wrinkles as on below picture.
FAIL: Wrinkles on bust point. Equal or more general wrinkles as on below picture.
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GQS Laundering H&M TM LA:06 1.0
Latest Reviewed:
May, 2015
Effective Date:
May, 2015
Badge Ironing Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
The purpose of this test is to see how well the badges attach to fabric. The
badges are fastened to a canvas fabric according to the same procedure as
described on the packaging and then washed to see that the attachment holds.
EQUIPMENT
• Iron
• Washing machine
• Cotton canvas fabric (one to fasten the badge on and one to wet and use when ironing)
• Water (tap water is ok)
TEST SPECIMEN
3 sets of badges are needed for a full test
METHOD
1. Put the badge on the canvas fabric.
2. Wet the other cotton cloth and place it over the badges when ironing - 1 min with iron 3 dots.
3. Iron the back side of the canvas with the badges - 1 min.
4. Let it cool down at least 30 min before washing.
5. 3 sets of badges should be performed 1 time wash to see the appearance and attachment of badge.
RESULTS
The test is “fail” if:
• badge peel off
• hand feel changes (stiff/harsh)
• distinct surface change
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Candles & Candle Holders
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Risk Classification of Candles
Use Table 1 to classify the candles as low risk or high risk candles to decide how many samples that has to be
tested.
For low risk candles; 4 samples of each colour and fragrance have to be tested.
For high risk candles; 6 samples of each colour and fragrance have to be tested.
Table 1. Risk classification

Category Candle type
Low risk Minimal decoration/paint
Floating candles
Dinner candles
Large diameter
Tea lights in metal containers
High risk Highly decorated/painted
Sculptured candles 2
Shaped candles 3
Complex wax/wick structure
Multi-wick structure
Candles with inclusions
Tea lights in non-metal containers
Burn Test Cycles for Burning Tests

Burn the candles according to the burn test cycle specified in Table 2.
Table 2. Burn test cycles

Type of candle Burn test cycle
Floating candles, container candles Burn candles continuously until self-
and candles marketed as self- extinguishing.
extinguishing with a mass below 40 g
(including tea lights)
Floating candles and container Burn candle 4 h, pause for minimum 1
candles with a mass above 40 g h. Continue to burn in cycles until
self-extinguishing.
Candles with a mass below 40 g Burn continuously until a residual
(excluding floating candles and height of 10 mm.
container candles)
Candles with a mass above 40 g Burn candle 4 h, pause for minimum 1
(excluding floating candles and h. Continue to burn in cycles until a
container candles) residual height of 20 mm.
Highly decorated candles Burn candles continuously until the
height is reduced with 25–50 mm
2 A pillar candle or tapper candle with a sculpture on the surface.

3 Candle shaped like something else than a usual candle for example a flower, animal or letters.
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GPCD Candles & H&M TM CA:01 1.0
Candle Holders Latest Reviewed:
(CA) November, 2014
Effective Date:
Surface Temperature for Container Candles and May, 2014
Effective Until:
Candle Containers Further notice
PURPOSE
To ensure that the container will not be too hot and burn the skin of the consumer or damage property.
DEFINITIONS
Container candle Candle which is produced in and will be burned in a
container.
Parts intended to be The area or parts of the holder/container those are
held intended to be held for moving the candle. E.g. the
hanging ring on a lantern.
Parts likely to be The area or parts of the holder/container where
touched the user may touch. E.g. the sidewall of the vessel.
Base The actual bottom of the holder/container.
Burning period Time the candle burns from initial being lit until it is
extinguished.
Burn test cycle Total time of a burning period and pause.
Pine tree surface A piece of untreated pine tree to place the
container candle on to see if it leave marks on
sensitive surfaces
Candle extinguisher An instrument used to extinguish burning candles.
Also called candle snuffer.
EQUIPMENT
• Candle extinguisher
• Stop watch
• Thermocouple
• Pine tree surface
• Tealight with a diameter of 38 mm. For candle containers for maximum tealights use tealights with a
diameter of 59 mm.
TEST SPECIMEN
4 samples of each colour and fragrance.
CONDITIONING
The temperature of the sample shall be (20±5)°C before the test is started.
The room temperature shall be (20±5)°C and the room shall be draught free.
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METHOD
1. Remove any outer wrapping and prepare the sample according to the given instructions for use.
2. For container candles: Measure the mass of the candle to see if the mass is below or above 40 g.
For candle containers: Place the tea light in the middle of the candle container.
3. Place each candle in an upright position on the Pine tree surface. When testing multiple samples all candles
shall be separated by the distance specified in the instructions for use.
4. Position the wick in an upright position and light the candle without contaminating the candle by the ignition
source.
5. Burn the candle according to the burn test cycle specified in Table 2 in chapter introduction “Burn test
cycles for candles”. Use a candle extinguisher to extinguish the candles.
6. Measure the temperature at parts intended to be held, parts likely to be touched and the base at the end of
each burn test cycle.
RESULTS
If any temperature exceeds the given requirements the product fail the test.
NOTE
Draught free means that a candle burns without noticeable disturbance of the flame. If the flame is flickering this
can be verified using a reference candle of wax with a diameter of 22 mm. If this candle also flickers there is a
draught, if not then it´s flickering due to the candle design or quality.
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GPCD Candles & Test procedure for 1.0
Candle Holders EN 15493 Latest Reviewed:
(CA) September, 2013
Effective Date:
May, 2014
Secondary Ignition Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
To ensure that no secondary ignition occur during the burning process according to EN 15493.
DEFINITIONS
Secondary ignition Self-sustained flame other than that on the
intended wick(s), including flash over where the
base material´s vapours ignite over the molten fuel
pool.
extinguished.
EQUIPMENT
• Measuring device, non-flammable with millimetre grading
• Stop watch
TEST SPECIMEN
Depending on risk classification of the candles. See Table 1 in chapter introduction “Risk classification of candles”.
CONDITIONING
For floating candles, the temperature of the water shall be (20±5)°C when the test is started.
METHOD
2. Measure the mass of the candle to see if the mass is below or above 40 g.
3. Place each candle in an upright position on a heat resistant, non-flammable surface. Non free-standing
candles are placed in a suitable candleholder which does not affect the burning property of the candle.
Free-standing candles are placed on a surface that does not affect the burning property. When testing
multiple samples all candles shall be separated by the distance specified in the instructions for use.
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source.
6. Visual observations shall be made 5 min after ignition, at least at hourly intervals throughout the burning
period, at extinguishing and self-extinguishing, when applicable.
RESULTS
No secondary ignition shall occur for more than the time specified in the requirements.
NOTE
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Effective Date:
May, 2014
Flame Height Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
To ensure that the flame is not too high during the burning process according to EN 15493.
DEFINITIONS
Flame height From base of the flame to the top of the flame.
extinguished.
EQUIPMENT
• Measuring device, non-flammable with millimetre grading
• Stop watch
TEST SPECIMEN
CONDITIONING
METHOD
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source.
6. The flame height shall be measured and recorded 5 min after ignition, then on an hourly basis and before
extinguishing in each burning period.
7. If the flame appears to approach the maximum allowable flame height at other times, it shall also be
measured and recorded. For candles with a total burning time less than one specified burning period, the
flame height shall be measured and recorded at least twice.
RESULTS
The flame height shall not exceed the given requirements.
NOTE
draught, if not then it´s flickering due to the candle design or quality. The measuring device and measuring
procedure should not disturb the flame.
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Effective Date:
May, 2014
Self-extinguishing Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
To ensure that container candles and candles marketed as self-extinguishing self-extinguish after the burning
process according to EN 15493.
DEFINITIONS
container.
extinguished.
End of burning time When the candle cease to support combustion and
the candle flame goes out on its own, as designed,
and cannot be lit.
EQUIPMENT
• Stop watch
TEST SPECIMEN
CONDITIONING
METHOD
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source.
RESULTS
The candles shall at the end of the burning time self-extinguish and not cause the container to break.
NOTE
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Effective Date:
May, 2014
Re-ignition after Extinguishing Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
To ensure that no re-ignition occur after the burning process according to EN 15493.
DEFINITIONS
Re-ignition Self-ignition of the wick after it has been
extinguished.
extinguished.
EQUIPMENT
• Stop watch
TEST SPECIMEN
CONDITIONING
METHOD
source.
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RESULTS
The candle shall not spontaneously re-light after extinguishing.
NOTE
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Effective Date:
May, 2014
Afterglow Test Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
To ensure that the wick not continue to glow or smoke for more than 20 s after the burning process according to
EN 15493.
DEFINITIONS
extinguished.
EQUIPMENT
• Stop watch
TEST SPECIMEN
CONDITIONING
METHOD
source.
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7. Measure the time the wick continues to glow or smoke after ignition.
RESULTS
The wick shall not continue to glow or smoke for more than the time specified in the requirements after
extinguishing.
NOTE
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Effective Date:
May, 2014
Clubbing on Wick Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
To ensure that the wick do not exhibit clubbing.
DEFINITIONS
Clubbing The accumulation of carbon on the tip of the wick
that typically takes the shape of a “club” or
shamrock shape.
extinguished.
EQUIPMENT
• Stop watch
TEST SPECIMEN
CONDITIONING
METHOD
source.
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6. Visual observations for clubbing shall be made 5 min after ignition, at least at hourly intervals throughout
the burning period, at extinguishing and self-extinguishing, when applicable.
RESULTS
Minimal and noticeable clubbing are ok, excessive clubbing not ok.
Minimal Noticeable Excessive
NOTE
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Effective Date:
May, 2014
Wax Pool Temperature Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
To ensure that the wax pool temperature not is too high to minimize the risk for overheating and flare-up.
DEFINITIONS
container.
extinguished.
EQUIPMENT
• Stop watch
• Thermocouple
TEST SPECIMEN
CONDITIONING
METHOD
source.
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6. Measure the wax pool temperature at the end of each burn test cycle.
RESULTS
If the wax pool temperature exceeds the given requirements the product fail the test.
NOTE
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GQS Candles & H&M TM CA:04 1.0
Effective Date:
May, 2014
Wax Spillage Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
To ensure that the candle do not give rise to excessive wax spillage or collapse of a sidewall.
DEFINITIONS
extinguished.
EQUIPMENT
• Stop watch
TEST SPECIMEN
CONDITIONING
METHOD
source.
6. Visual observations shall be made at least at hourly intervals throughout the burning period.
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RESULTS
No candle shall exceed the given requirements.
NOTE
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GQS Candles & H&M TM CA:05 1.0
Effective Date:
May, 2014
Total Burning Time and Unmelt Wax Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
To ensure that the total burning time of the candle is not less than what is specified on the consumer package
and ensure that the mass of unmelt wax is below our requirement.
DEFINITIONS
Total burning time The sum of burning time in all burning cycles until
the end of life. Depending on candle type, end of
life is defined as follows;
Floating and container candles, tea lights: When
self-extinguishing.
Candles with a weight of less than 40 g: When 10
mm remains of the candle.
Candles with a weight of more than 40 g: When 20
mm remains of the candle.
extinguished.
Total weight before The total weight of the candle before burning. For
burning container candles, the total weight of wax and
candle holder before burning.
Total weight after The total weight of the candle after burning until
burning the end of life. For container candles, the total
weight of wax and candle holder after burning.
Glass holder weight The weight of one clean and empty container
holder used for container candles.
Wax weight before The total weight of the wax in container candles
burning before burning.
Wax weight after The total weight of the wax remaining in container
burning candles after burning until the end of life.
EQUIPMENT
• Stop watch
• Scale
TEST SPECIMEN
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CONDITIONING
METHOD
2. Measure the mass of the candle to see if the mass is below or above 40 g. Write down the weight as “Total
weight before burning”.
source.
6. Sum the burning time of all burning cycles until the end of life.
7. Measure the weight of the candle with the remaining unburned wax and write down the weight as “Total
weight after burning”.
For container candles:
8. Clean the container and remove all unburned wax.

9. Weigh the empty container and write down the weight as “Glass holder weight”.
10. Calculate the total mass of wax before burning by subtracting the “Glass holder weight” from “Total weight
before burning”. Write down that weight as “Wax weight before burning”.
11. Calculate the total mass of wax after burning by subtracting the “Glass holder weight” from “Total weight
after burning”. Write down that weight as “Wax weight after burning”.
12. Calculate the percentage of unmelt wax by dividing the “Wax weight after burning” with “Wax weight
before burning”.
For all other candles:
8. Calculate the percentage of unmelt wax by dividing the “Total weight after burning” with “Total weight
before burning”.
RESULTS
The total burning time shall for no candle be less than what is specified on the consumer package and the
percentage of unmelt wax shall not exceed the given requirement.
NOTE
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Effective Date:
May, 2014
Misuse of Container Candles Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
To ensure that the container candle can withstand misuse.
EQUIPMENT
• Incline plane (fixed or adjustable) with an angle of 45° from a horizontal level.
TEST SPECIMEN
CONDITIONING
METHOD
1. Place the unlit candle on the incline plane.
2. Ignite a tapper candle. Heat the container inner surface with the tapper candle flame for five minutes.
3. Visually inspect the container for any visible fracture, crack or shatter.
45°
RESULTS
If one of the tested containers does not meet given requirements the product fails the test.
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(CA) November, 2013
Effective Date:
Stability for Container Candles, Candle Containers and May, 2014
Effective Until:
Candle Holders Further notice
PURPOSE
To ensure that the candle/container is stable and will not tip over if it is placed on a gently sloping surface.
EQUIPMENT
• 10 inch pillar candles, 38 mm tealights or 59 mm tealight.
TEST SPECIMEN
4 samples of each colour and fragrance.
For candle holders, the holder shall be tested with the appropriate size of candle in the holder. Only use the 59
mm tealight for candle containers/candle holders intended for maximum tealights.
METHOD
1. Place the unlit candle/container candle/candle holder on the incline plane in the orientation most likely to
cause tipping at 10° from a horizontal level.
2. Rotate the candle/container candle/candle holder around the vertical axis for 360° to check overturn and
rocking.
RESULTS
If the candle tips over the candle fail the test.
NOTE
No failure accepted.
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(CA) 2016-02-12
Effective Date:
Ignition of decoration Effective Until:

Further notice
PURPOSE
Test method for highly decorated candles to ensure that no ignition of the decoration occurs.
This specification prescribes minimum safety requirements for candle decoration to help ensure a reasonable
degree of safety for normal use with candles, thereby improving personal safety and reducing risk for fires and
injuries.
REFERENCED DOCUMENT
ASTM F2601 Fire Safety for Candle Accessories
EQUIPMENT
• Flame source
• Stop watch
• Pincer or similar grab tool
DEFINITIONS
Highly decorated Candle decorated with glitter or other material

candle except paint
extinguished
Flame Source A butane diffusion flame intended to represent a
candle flame
Sustained Flaming Existence of flame on or over the surface of the
specimen as specified in the requirements
Also called candle snuffer
TEST SPECIMEN
6 samples of each colour and fragrance
CONDITIONING
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METHOD
Components of candle decoration are tested for sustaining flaming combustion. The decoration is tested for
flammability through contact with the flame source for up to 30s. The flame source shall be held upright and the
test sample horizontal at an angle of 90º from the flame. See Fig 1.
90º
Fig 1
Free-standing candles are placed on a surface that does not affect the burning property.
source.
cycles for candles”. Use a candle extinguisher to extinguish the candles. See Fig 2.
5. Cut a thin part of the decoration from the top of the candle, approximately 30x10x1 mm. See Fig 3. Make
sure that the sample mostly consists of the decoration.
6. Grab the test sample with a pincer. Ignite the flame source allowing the flame to make contact with the test
sample for a period of up to 30s.
7. Remove the flame source from the test sample as soon as the test sample exhibits sustained flaming
combustion. Record the time from when the test sample first ignites with sustained flame combustion until
flame ceases. See Fig 4. If the test sample fails to ignite after 30s, remove the flame source and record the
time as 0s.
Fig 2 Fig 3 Fig 4
RESULTS
If one of the tested samples exhibits sustained flaming combustion more than the time specified in the
requirements the product fails the test.
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Cooking & Washing Up
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GQS Cooking & H&M TM CW:01 1.0
Washing up (CW) Latest Reviewed:
September, 2013
Effective Date:
May, 2014
Resistance to Microwave Heating Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
To ensure that a product is suitable for use in a microwave oven.
EQUIPMENT
• Microwave oven with a turntable and a minimum output of 600 W
• Infrared thermometer with an accuracy of ±2°C
• Stop watch
• Two 125 ml water containers
• Crack indicator stain (1% aqueous solution of methylene blue)
TEST SPECIMEN
Minimum 3 samples of each type have to be tested.
METHOD
1. Apply a crack indicator stain to the surface of the product and wash clear.
2. Visually check that the surface is not damaged. Note any small faults (e.g. pinholes in the glaze) prior to
testing.
3. Except for articles made from glass, glass-ceramic or plastic, immerse the product in water at a
temperature of (20±3)°C for one hour and then wipe the surface dry with a cloth.
4. Pour (125±2.5)ml of water into each of the water container and place at the back of the microwave oven so
as not to interfere with the turntable.
5. Place the product at the centre of the microwave oven on the turntable and microwave for 120 s (2
minutes) at 600 W.
6. Open the microwave oven door and measure the highest temperature of the handle. Ensure that this
process takes no longer than 45 s.
7. Close the door and set the microwave oven for 780 s (13 minutes) at 600 W.
8. Open the door and measure the highest surface temperature. Ensure that this process takes no longer than
45 s.
9. Remove the product from the microwave oven and allow it to cool on an insulated surface to prevent
thermal shock.
10. Apply crack indicator stain to the product and wash clear.
11. Visually inspect the product for any visible deformation, crack, crazing, melting or colour change.
RESULTS
If any visible deformation, crack, crazing, melting or colour change appears the product fail the test.
Or, if the temperature of the handle or the surface temperature exceeds the given requirements, the product fails
the test.
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NOTE
If the product fails the test it is not suitable to use in a microwave oven and has to be labelled with an over
crossed microwave symbol.
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September, 2013
Effective Date:
May, 2014
Resistance to Freezing Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
To ensure that a product is suitable for use in a freezer.
EQUIPMENT
• Freezer with a temperature of at least -20°C
• Stop watch
TEST SPECIMEN
METHOD
1. Apply a crack indicator stain to all the surface of the product and wash clear.
testing.
4. Place the product in the freezer for 5 h.
5. Remove the product from the freezer and allow it to unfreeze on an insulated surface to prevent thermal
shock.
6. Apply crack indicator stain to the product again and wash clear.
7. Visually inspect the product for any visible fracture, crack, crazing or shatter.
RESULTS
If any visible fracture, crack, crazing or shatter the product fail the test.
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September, 2013
Effective Date:
Resistance to Freezer to Microwave Oven Usage and May, 2014
Effective Until:
Vice Versa Further notice
PURPOSE
To ensure that a product will withstand the thermal shock between freezer and microwave oven.
EQUIPMENT
• Microwave oven with a turntable and a minimum output of 600 W
• Two 125 ml water containers
• Stop watch
TEST SPECIMEN
METHOD
testing.
4. Pour (125±2.5)ml of water into each of the water container and place at the back of the microwave oven so
as not to interfere with the turntable.
5. Place the product in the freezer at -20°C for 5 h.
6. Remove the product from the freezer and put it in the microwave oven at 600 W for 120 s (2 minutes).
7. Remove the product from the microwave oven and allow it to cool.
9. Visually inspect the product for any visible deformation, fracture, crack, crazing or shatter.
10. Place the product in the microwave oven at 600 W for 780 s (13 minutes).
11. Remove the product from the oven and place it in the freezer at -20°C for 30 minutes.
12. Remove the product from the freezer and allow it to unfreeze.
RESULTS
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GPCD Cooking & H&M TM CW:04 1.0
September, 2013
Effective Date:
May, 2014
Resistance to Freezer to Oven Usage and Vice Versa Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
To ensure that a product will withstand the thermal shock between freezer and oven.
EQUIPMENT
• Oven with a temperature of at least 275°C
• Stop watch
TEST SPECIMEN
METHOD
testing.
4. Place the product in the freezer at -20°C for 5 h.
5. Remove the product from the freezer and put it in the oven at 275°C for 10 minutes.
6. Remove the product from the oven and allow it to cool.
9. Place the product in the oven at 275°C for 2 hours.
10. Remove the product from the oven and place it in the freezer at -20°C for 30 minutes.
11. Remove the product from the freezer and allow it to unfreeze.
RESULTS
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September, 2013
Effective Date:
May, 2014
Durability to Hand Dishwashing Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
To ensure that a product is suitable for hand dishwashing.
EQUIPMENT
• Dishwashing detergent (Fairy or Yes)
• Washing up sink or a tub
• Thermometer
• Rubber gloves
• Washing-up sponge (e.g. Scotch-Brite)
TEST SPECIMEN
METHOD
testing.
3. Pour 38°C water in the washing up sink or the tub and add some dishwashing detergent.
4. Place the product in the water and leave for five minutes.
5. Wear the rubber gloves and wash the product with a sponge.
6. Rinse the product with domestic tap water.
7. Repeat step number 4 to 6 eleven times more. So the product has been dish washed 12 times.
9. Visually inspect the product for any visible deformation, fracture, crack, crazing or shatter. Check the colour
change.
RESULTS
If any noticeable change in colour the product fail the test.
NOTE
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September, 2013
Effective Date:
May, 2014
Durability to Machine Dishwashing Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
To ensure that a product is suitable for machine dishwashing.
EQUIPMENT
• Dishwashing machine with a 60°C program
• Machine dishwashing detergent (Cascade Complete)
TEST SPECIMEN
METHOD
testing.
3. Place the product in the upper basket of the dishwashing machine.
4. Wash the product five times at a 60°C program.
change.
7. Wash the products five times more at a 60°C program.
change.
10. Wash the products twenty times more at a 60°C program.
change.
RESULTS
If any visible fracture, crack, crazing or shatter the product has failed the test.
The colour change is assessed using a grey scale for staining. No product shall exceed the given requirements.
NOTE
If the product fail the test it is not suitable to wash it in a dishwashing machine and the product has to be labelled
with an over crossed dishwashing machine symbol.
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November, 2014
Effective Date:
September, 2013
Handle and Knob Temperature Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
To ensure that a product intended for hot contents will not be too hot to hold by measuring the handle and knob
temperatures.
EQUIPMENT
• Thermocouple
• Stop watch
• Equipment for boiling water (e.g. a kettle)
TEST SPECIMEN
METHOD
2. Fill the product with boiling water (100°C)
3. Measure the highest temperature of the handle and knob after 2, 5, 10 and 15 minutes. If the temperature
have not increased between 5 and 10 minutes you do not need to proceed and measure after 15 minutes.
RESULTS
If the temperature of the handle or knob exceeds the given requirements the product fail the test.
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November, 2014
Effective Date:
May, 2014
Surface Temperature of Food Contact Products Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
To ensure that a product intended for hot contents will not be too hot to hold by measuring the outer surface
temperature.
DEFINITIONS
Pine tree surface A piece of untreated pine tree to place the product
on to see if the product leave marks on sensitive
surfaces.
Parts intended to be held The area or parts of the products those are
intended to be held for moving the product.
Parts likely to be touched The area or parts of the product where the user
may touch.
Base The actual bottom of the product.
EQUIPMENT
• Thermocouple
• Stop watch
TEST SPECIMEN
METHOD
2. Fill the product with boiling water (100°C) and place it on the pine tree surface.
3. After 2, 5, 10 and 15 minutes:
• Measure the highest surface temperature of parts intended to be held and parts likely to be
touched. If the temperature have not increased between 5 and 10 minutes you do not need to
proceed and measure after 15 minutes.
• Check that the base of the product have not left any marks on the pine tree surface
RESULTS
If any temperature exceeds the given requirements the product fail the test.
NOTE
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March, 2014
Effective Date:
March, 2014
Resistance to Oven Use Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
To ensure that a product is suitable for oven use and confirm which temperatures the product is safe to use in.
EQUIPMENT
• Oven with a minimum temperature of 275°C
• Stop watch
TEST SPECIMEN
METHOD
1. Apply a crack indicator stain to the surface of the product and wash clear.
testing.
4. Set the oven at 200°C and wait until the oven has reached that temperature.
5. Place the product in the middle of the oven on the grid and let the product be in the oven for 30 minutes.
6. Remove the product from the oven and allow it to cool on an insulated surface to prevent thermal shock.
8. Visually inspect the product for any visible deformation, fracture, crack, crazing or shatter. If anything visible
the product fails the test at the actual temperature.
9. Place the product in the middle of the oven on the grid again and let the product be in the oven for 180
minutes.
10. Remove the product from the oven and allow it to cool on an insulated surface to prevent thermal shock.
12. Visually inspect the product for any visible deformation, fracture, crack, crazing or shatter. If anything visible
the product fails the test at the actual temperature.
13. Repeat step 4 to 12 with the oven set at 275°C.
RESULTS
If any visible deformation, crack, crazing, melting or colour change appears on the product at 200°C the product
totally fail the test and is not suitable for oven use and shall be labelled with the Not oven safe-symbol.
If the product withstands 200°C the product shall be labelled with oven safe at 175°C.
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If any visible deformation, crack, crazing, melting or colour change appears on the product at 275°C the product is
only suitable for oven use at lower temperatures and shall be labelled with 175°C.
If the product withstands 275°C the product shall be labelled with oven safe at 250°C.
NOTE
To have a safety margin the product shall be tested for a higher temperature than stated on the product. Please
see test temperatures and labelling temperatures in Table 1.
Table 1. Temperatures for test and labelling

Test temperature Labelling temperature
200°C 175°C
275°C 250°C
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Chemical
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GPCD Chemical (CH) Test procedure 1.1
for ISO 3071:2005 Latest Reviewed:
May, 2014
Effective Date:
May, 2014
pH Test Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
The main principle is electrometric measurement of the pH value of the aqueous extract of textiles at room
temperature by means of a glass electrode. The method is applicable to textiles in any form provided that a
representative sample may be obtained which is in a form that permits a ready exchange of liquid between the
interior of the material and the solution used in preparing the extract. The result shows the acidity or alkalinity of
the textile.
REFERENCE DOCUMENTS
ISO 3071:2005 Textiles – Determination of pH of aqueous extract
EQUIPMENT
• Distilled water, of at least grade 3, pH 5.0-7.5, conductivity 5 µS/cm
• Standard reference materials buffer (SRM) solutions: pH 6 and 10
or
Commercial grade buffer solution: pH 4, pH 7 and pH 10.
• 3 M Potassium Chloride (KCl) solution
• Glass or polypropylene flasks with stopper, 150 ml. The flasks used for this test should be set aside for
this purpose only.
• Funnel
• Volumetric flask with stopper, 1000 ml
• Measuring cylinder
• Gloves
• Mechanical shaker, providing rotational or reciprocating movement. A to-and-fro movement at a rate of
60 per minute or a rotational frequency of 30 per minute have been found satisfactory.
• pH-meter, with a glass electrode, capable of measuring to at least 0,1 pH-units
• Balance, accuracy 0.01 g
REAGENTS
• Distilled or deionised water, of at least grade 3, having a pH value between 5.0 and 7.5 and a maximum
conductivity of 5 µS/cm.
• Buffer solutions: Either SRM with pH values 6 and 10 or Commercial grade buffer: pH 4, pH 7 and pH 10.
• Potassium chloride solution (KCl) in concentration 0.1 M (mol/litre) prepared using 3 M KCl and distilled
water. Below table shows how to prepare 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5 litre of 0.1 M KCl:.
To make 1 litre 0.1 M KCl: Take 33 ml of 3 M KCl solution to a 1 litre volumetric flask. Add distilled water up to
1 litre and shake the solution.
Take this Take this volume of It will give this

volume of distilled water volume 0.1 M KCl
3 M KCl
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33 ml 967 ml 1000 ml
67 ml 1933 ml 2000 ml
100 ml 2900 ml 3000 ml
133 ml 3867 ml 4000 ml
167 ml 4833 ml 5000 ml
TEST SPECIMEN
• Each colour on the fabric test specimen shall be tested separately.
• If there are prints, the fabric and print shall be tested together and the colours shall not be separated.
Each test specimen is 2.0 g (±0.05 g).
METHOD
Preparation of samples with mechanical shaker

a) Prepare triplicate samples. Cut (2±0.05)g of the sample that is representative for the bulk production
into small pieces having approximately 5 mm sides or of such a size and place them in the flasks. Use
gloves.
b) Add 100 ml of 0.1 M KCl solution to each flask.
c) Shake the flasks until the fabric is wet, and then shake it mechanically for 2 hours ± 5 min according to
section 5.2.
Preparation of samples without mechanical shaker

a) Prepare triplicate samples. Cut (2±0.05)g of the sample that is representative for the bulk production in
small pieces and place them in the flasks. Use gloves.
b) Add 100 ml of 0.1 M KCl solution to each flask.
c) Shake the flasks until the fabric is wet.
d) Let the samples stand for about 15 hours in room temperature. Shake the flasks from time to time.
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Calibration of pH meter- with standard reference materials buffer solution
1. Open the fill hole on the electrode; add KCl solutions (3M) if necessary.
2. Switch on the pH meter by pressing [On/Off] key.
3. Rinse the electrode with distilled water and immerse it in the pH 6 buffer solution.
4. Press the [pH cal] key (twice) to measure the temperature.
5. When the display shows “pH 6.00”, press [Enter] to measure the first buffer solution.
6. When the display shows “bu 2”, rinse the electrode, immerse it in the pH 10 buffer solution and press [Enter]
to measure the temperature.
7. When the display shows “pH 10.00”, press [Enter] to measure the second buffer solution.
8. When the display shows a slope, the calibration is completed. Note the calibration % on the report sheet. If
it is below 93%, calibrate once more with fresh buffer solutions.
Calibration of pH meter - with commercial grade buffer solution (three calibration points)
1. Open the fill hole on the electrode; add KCl solutions (3M) if necessary.
2. Switch on the pH meter by pressing [On/Off] key.
3. Rinse the electrode with distilled water before individual buffer reading.
4. Calibrate with buffer pH 4, pH 7 and pH 10 as per respective pH meter manual.
5. Measure and record the temperature during calibration.
6. When the display shows a slope, the calibration is completed. Note the calibration % on the report
sheet. If it is below 93%, calibrate once more with fresh buffer solutions.
Measuring the pH value of the samples

1. Rinse the electrode in distilled water.
2. Place it in flask 1:1 and stir during measuring. Wait for the pH value to stabilize and note the result on the
report sheet.
3. Place the electrode in flask 1:2 without rinsing and leave it still. Wait for the triangle in the display to
disappear and note the result.
4. Place the electrode in flask 1:3 without rinsing and leave it still. Wait for the triangle in the display to
disappear and note the result. The difference between pH values of samples 1:2 and 1:3 should not be
greater than 0.3 pH units, if it is the samples need to be measured again.
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5. Repeat point 1-4 for all samples.
6. Finally the buffer solutions shall be measured. Rinse the electrode between the two solutions and note the
values. If the buffer values differ more than ± 0.05, the calibration and measurement of the samples needs
to be re-made.
RESULTS
The average value of second and third measures of one sample is calculated according to the formula below:
1: 2 + 1: 3
𝐴𝑣𝑒𝑟𝑎𝑔𝑒 =
2
The result shall be reported with one decimal only.
NOTE
Note! If there should be a garment wash on the order, the pH value should be measured after the final treatment
is made.
Note! The buffer solutions shall have the same temperature as the samples (room temperature
Note! Sample 1:1 shall not be included in the calculation of the result.
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GPCD Chemical (CH) Test procedure for 1.1
CR 12471 Latest Reviewed:
December, 2013
Effective Date:
December, 2013
Nickel Test Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
A quick screening method based on the use of dimethylglyoxime, suitable for the qualitative evaluation of nickel
release. The result is indicative and provides guidelines when evaluating objects for nickel release.
Dimethylglyoxime reacts with released nickel ions and gives a pink colour complex.
The in-house method is a reference method to check whether nickel release is above 0.5 µg/cm2/week. When the
result is positive, nickel release need to be cross checked by EN 1811 at an external laboratory. The lower limit 0.2
µg/cm2/week need to be tested by EN 1811 at an external laboratory as well.
REFERENCE DOCUMENTS
EN 12471 • A screening test for nickel release
EQUIPMENT
• Distilled water
• Dimethylglyoxime powder, analytical grade
• Ethanol >95%
• 25% Ammonia solution
• Volumetric flask with stopper, 1000 ml
• Magnetic stirring
• Funnel
• Safety gloves
• Safety goggles
• Cotton swabs
• Well-ventilated area for performing the test
TEST SPECIMEN
• Test all parts with skin contact separately.
• Metal parts without skin contact shall not be tested.
• Test the piecing part on the test specimen and the outer part separately.
• For spectacles all parts with skin contact shall be tested.
Rub directly with the cotton swab immersed with the two solutions on the metal part that have skin contact.
Make sure the metal is clean since it otherwise could be difficult to judge the result.
METHOD
NOTE: If you purchase ready-made solutions, also make sure to apply any procedure recommended by the
supplier.
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Preparation solutions
Dimethylglyoxime, 0.8%
a) Weigh (8.0g±0.5)g of dimethylglyoxime into a 1000 ml flask with stopper.
b) Add ~900 ml ethanol (>95%) and place the flask on magnetic stirring until the dimethylglyoxime is
solved.
c) Add ethanol so the total volume is exactly 1000 ml.
Ammonia solution, 10% (m/m)
a) Measure 420 ml of ammonia solution (25%) and mix with 500 ml distilled water.
b) Stir and allow cooling to room temperature (if necessary).
c) Add distilled water so the total volume is exactly 1000 ml.
The ammonia and dimethylglyoxime solutions are stable for 6 months at a temperature below 25°C. After this
time there is a risk that the solutions will not work correctly. If possible it is best to keep the solutions in a
refrigerator.
Test method
1. Moisten a cotton swab with two drops of each solution. It is important that it is exactly two drops of each
solution and not more or less. It does not matter which chemical is added first, but the two chemicals shall
be mixed on the cotton swab.
2. Rub quite hard on the area to be tested for 30 seconds, not shorter and not longer. Use a clock that shows
seconds. The appearance of pink colour, from light pink to strong cerise indicates nickel release. Other
colours, green, grey, brown or blue indicates other metals or dirt: in these cases the sample is OK.
1. Put two drops of each solution on a cotton swab. It 2. Rub quite hard on the object for 30 seconds, not
does not matter which one you put on first, but the two shorter or longer.
solutions shall mix together on the swab.
RESULTS
If the cotton swab turns pink it should be reported as “ + “ ( = NOT OK).
If the cotton swab does not turn pink it should be reported as “ – “ ( = OK).
If there are difficulties in judging the result, a sample can be sent to an external lab for nickel release test
according to EN 1811. EN 1811 gives a quantitative result and takes 9-10 business days for the external lab to
perform.
SAFETY
The chemicals used shall be handled with care!
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Protective eye goggles shall be used when performing the test, in order to avoid getting chemicals in the eyes. If
this should happen, the eyes need to be rinsed with water for 30 minutes to avoid damages. A doctor should be
consulted.
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GPCD Chemical (CH) H&M TM CH:01 1.1
Latest Reviewed:
May, 2014
Effective Date:
May, 2014
PVC – Beilstein Test Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
Burning test by Beilstein. The chlorine atoms (for example from the PVC molecule) react with the hot copper wire
in a flame to form volatile copper chloride which emits a characteristic green light.
EQUIPMENT
• Copper wire
• Lighter or burner (Bunsen burner)
TEST SPECIMEN
• Plastic/rubber parts and labels shall be tested separately.
• Prints and fabric shall be tested together.
METHOD
1. The clean copper wire is heated in the flame until it is red-hot. Use gloves or some other type of protection
from the heat.
2. Touch the plastic that shall be tested with the wire so the plastic melts onto the wire.
3. Place the wire back into the flame and check the colour of the flames that are created. Caution: This test
can generate toxic fumes and good ventilation must be ensured!
RESULTS
If the flames turn green it indicates chlorine (see picture). The
sample might be PVC but the result needs to be confirmed by test
at external lab with IR spectroscopy.
If the flame has no colour, the sample is OK and is not made of

PVC. There is no need for confirmation test.
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GPCD Chemical (CH) Test procedure for 1.2
JIS L 1041:2011/ Latest Reviewed:
ISO 14184-1:2011 August, 2014
Effective Date:
November, 2014
Formaldehyde Test Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
Formaldehyde is extracted from a textile sample in water at 40˚C. The amount of formaldehyde is then
determined colourimetrically.
REFERENCE DOCUMENTS
JIS L 1041-2011 for children’s wear up to size 98cl
method A
ISO 14184-1 for all other textiles
EQUIPMENT
• Distilled water
• Ammonia Acetate powder, analytical grade
• Glacial Acetic Acid liquid
• Acetylacetone liquid
• 35-40% Formaldehyde solution
• Potassium Hydroxide (KOH) powder
• Thymolftalene indicator
• Saturated Sodium Sulphite (Na2SO3) solution
• Sulphuric Acid (H2SO4)
• Glass flasks with stopper, 150 ml.
• Funnel.
• Water bath with temperature control.
• Volumetric flask, 1000 ml and 100 ml.
• Pipette
• Titration equipment
• Test tubes
• Tube rack
• Cuvettes
• Spectrophotometer for Formaldehyde testing according to ISO 14184-1 and JIS 1041-1983 method A
TEST SPECIMEN
• Each colour on the fabric and leather shall be tested separately if possible.
• Labels shall be tested separately.
• Each part of the garment (e.g. fusing, padding or print) should be tested separately.
• Iron on patches shall be tested together with the fabric after being ironed onto the fabric.
• Garments with print should be tested twofold; one test with only textile and one test with fabric
completely covered with print. Colours do not need to be separated.
• Embroidery shall be tested together with fabric. If possible separate colours.
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Each test specimen is 2.50 g.
PREPARATION OF SOLUTIONS
Preparation of the sample solution

a) Put exactly 2.50 g of the fabric sample from the plastic bag in a flask with stopper. Use gloves. Cut the
fabric sample into many small pieces.
b) Note the exact weight on the report sheet.
c) Add 100 ml distilled water to the flask.
d) Shake the flask until the fabric is wet.
e) Put the flask in the water bath for one hour at (40±2)°C.
Preparation of the acetylacetone reagent solution

a) Dissolve 150 g ammonia acetate in ~800 ml distilled water.
b) Add 3 ml of glacial acetic acid.
c) Add 2 ml of acetylacetone.
d) Shake to mix thoroughly.
e) Add distilled water so the total volume is exactly 1000 ml.
The acetylacetone reagent solution cannot be stored and must be freshly prepared each day of testing.
Preparation of the standard formaldehyde solution

a) Pipette 10 ml of 35%-40% formaldehyde solution to a flask.
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b) Add distilled water to 1000 ml (solution 1).
c) Pipette 10 ml of solution 1 to a new flask.
d) Add distilled water to 1000 ml (solution 2).
e) Pipette 10 ml of solution 2 to a small flask.
f) Add distilled water to 100 ml (solution 3).
The standard formaldehyde solution cannot be stored and must be freshly prepared each day of testing.
Confirmation of the concentration of the standard formaldehyde solution

a) Pipette 25 ml of formaldehyde solution 1 into a vessel.
b) Neutralise with a small amount of potassium hydroxide (KOH) solution using thymolftalene as indicator.
c) Add 25 ml neutral, saturated sodium sulphite (Na2SO3) solution and leave the liquid still for one minute.
The sodium sulphite solution can be neutralised with a small amount (drops) of sulphuric acid (H2SO4).
d) Titrate the solution with N/10 H2SO4 (N=equivalent concentration of H2SO4). The consumption of
H2SO4= V in the formula below.
e) The concentration of the formaldehyde solution 1 can be calculated from the formula:
Solution 1 = (30*N*V)/25 g/l
Where N = equivalent conc. of H2SO4 and V= consumption of H2SO4 (ml)
3.5 < solution 1 < 4.0 g/l
3.5 < solution 3 < 4.0 µg/ml (= mg/kg)
METHOD
Preparation of the samples for measuring with the spectrophotometer

NOTE! It is very important to be careful, every drop will affect the result.
Sample 1. A0 5 ml sample solution from sample 1

5 ml distilled water
Sample 1, A1 5 ml sample solution from sample 1

5 ml acetylaceton reagent solution
Sample 1, A2 5 ml sample solution from sample 1

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Aform: 5 ml standard formaldehyde solution (solution 3)
Acal: 5 ml distilled water

Place the test tubes with stopper in a tube rack and put them in a water bath for 30 min at (40±2)°C. Let the
samples cool at room temperature for 30 min.
Measuring with the spectrophotometer

The absorbencies of the samples prepared are measured at wavelength 412 nm (nanometre) for both the ISO and
JIS method.
Put one sample solution into one cuvette and measure it in the spectrophotometer. When measuring the A0-
samples, distilled water shall be used as zero sample. When measuring A1, A2, Aform, Acal shall be used as zero
sample.
If both JIS and ISO method is performed in the same day, do not forget to re-measure A0, Acal and distilled water
at the correct wavelength.
RESULT
The result shall be reported as follows:
For children’s wear up to size 98cl (JIS method):

• The amount of formaldehyde in the sample is reported in absorbance (A-A0) with 2 decimals.
For other samples (ISO method):

• The amount of formaldehyde in the sample is reported in ppm (mg/kg) without decimals.
• If the result is less than 16 ppm it shall be reported as “not detectable” (n.d.).
JIS METHOD VS. ISO METHOD

JIS method reports the result directly with an absorbance value without calculating the ppm. However, in order to
compare also the JIS samples against a standard, following procedure shall be followed:
• Measure absorbance at 412 nm, mark it in the result form.
• Calculate ppm in the fabric with the “Form-Calculation.xls” sheet.
• If A<0.05 in the UV-VIS and the corresponding ppm is maximum 15 ppm, the sample is considered OK. If
the corresponding ppm is more than 15 ppm, the sample should be re-measured or sent to Bureau Veritas
for confirmation test.
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Durability & Strength – Textile
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GQS Durability & Test procedure for 1.1
Strength (DS) ISO 13937-2 Latest Reviewed:
November, 2014
Effective Date:
May, 2014
Tear Strength Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
To determine fabric tear strength.
DEFINITIONS
Gauge length Distance between the two effective clamping
points of a testing device.
EQUIPMENT
• CRE (constant-rate-of-extension) machine
• Clamping device, including the two jaws of the machine. The width of the jaws shall preferably be 75 mm,
but not less than 50 mm.
TEST SPECIMEN
From each sample two sets of test specimens shall be cut, one set in the warp direction and one in the weft
direction. Each set shall consist of at least five test specimens.
• The test specimen should be a rectangular strip (200±2)mm long and (50±1)mm wide.
• A longitudinal slit of (100±1)mm in length should be made beginning from the centre of the width.
• Mark the end of the tear (25±1)mm from the uncut end of the strip to indicate the position of the tear at
the completion of the test.
200±2
[mm]
25±1
100±1
1: Mark for end of tear length
50±1
2: Cut
1
2
Pic 1
General
Test should be performed before wash.
Treated denim
Scrapped or chemical treated denim should be tested before and after 3 washing & drying cycles.
Test only the treated and risky parts of denim, as for example; scraping, local bleaching (also see below pictures).
Several samples might be needed for testing.
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Elbow
Back thigh / seat

Front pocket /
moustache
Knee
Back thigh / seat

Front pocket /
moustache
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METHOD
1. The machine should have following settings:
a. Gauge length: (100±1) mm
b. Rate of extension: (100±10) mm/min
2. Clamp the test specimen in the jaws, with one leg in each of the jaws and the cut aligned along the
centerlines of the jaws. The uncut end of the test specimen should be remained free. Avoid pretension
when the test starts.
Jaw
Jaw
3. Start the test and continue the tear to the mark near the end of the strip (point 1 in Pic 1). The tear force
shall be recorded in newtons and be calculated electronically. Observe whether the tear proceeds along
the direction of force and whether any threads slip out from the fabric rather than being torn. The test is
correct if there is;
a. no slippage of threads out of the fabric;
b. no slippage in the jaws;
c. the tear is completed and proceeded along the direction of application of the force.
Other results should be discarded.
4. The test result is only valid if a minimum of three test specimens per set are correct.
RESULTS
State following in the test report:
a. Result in newtons:
• For denim: Report the lowest received tear force value across-warp and across-weft.
• For other materials: Report the overall mean tear force across-warp and across-weft.
- If only three or four test specimens are torn correctly, report the results for the individual test
specimens. The result is the lowest received tear force value across-warp and across-weft.
- If all specimens still side tear, these results should be ignored. The result should be based on
results from the other direction (which is the weakest direction)
b. Which area the test specimen was taken from and treatments made on that specific area.
For example: knee area, scraping.
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c. Number of test specimens rejected and reasons for this.
d. Any deviation from the given procedure (e.g. cross-wise tear)
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GQS Durability & H&M TM DS:01 1.1
Strength (DS) Latest Reviewed:
May, 2014
Effective Date:
May, 2014
Fibre Shedding of Fabrics with a Pile > 5 mm Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
To determine the amount of fibre removed from fabrics with a pile > 5 mm.
EQUIPMENT
• Pressure sensitive tape 25 mm wide, reference 3M 853
• Acrylic plate 115mm x 60mm
• Weight with a load of 3.63 kg
• Timer/ stop watch
• Paper card - white and black
TEST SPECIMEN
Three specimens 200mm x 100mm.
If the backing is glued, the test should also be performed after one wash according to care instructions.
METHOD
1. Cut three specimens carefully from the backside of the fabric and remove loose fibres/tuft from the cut
edges.
2. Place each specimen onto a smooth paper card with the front side of the fabric facing upwards.
Attach it to the card at each end with staples.
3. Cut a 200 mm strip of pressure sensitive tape.

4. Double fold over 25 mm at each end of the tape to form a (100±2) mm section of tape with a 25 mm tab at
each end. This enables the user to handle the tape without touching the area of the tape that comes into
contact with the fibres.
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Tape with a total length of 200 mm divided into each section.
25 mm 25 mm
50 mm 100 mm 50 mm
5. Apply the tape to the pile surface centrally along the specimen and then place the acrylic plate on top.
6. Immediately place the 3.63 kg weight onto the acrylic plate and start the timer/stop watch and stop it after
two minutes.
7. Remove the weight and the acrylic plate and pull the tape off quickly against pile direction.
8. Mount the tape onto white or black paper card. For dark coloured piles use white card and vice versa.
RESULTS
The level of shedding is assessed against below photographic standards.
• If less fibres than on these photos the fabric is considered to be OK = pass.

• If more fibres than on these photos the fabric is considered to be not OK = fail.
• If whole pieces/bundle of yarn (yarn loop) is removed then the result is not OK = fail.
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If one of the tested specimens fails, the test is considered as failed.
If all tested specimens pass, the test is considered as passed.
TAPE IS
COVERED WITH
FAKE FUR
FIBRES.
FAIL
WHOLE/BUNDLE OF
YARN
FAIL
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May, 2014
Effective Date:
May, 2014
Pilling Resistance – ICI Pilling Box Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
To determine the pilling resistance of textiles according to ISO 12945-1.
EQUIPMENT
• Pilling box
• Sewing machine
• Polyurethane tubes (four per test)
• Self-adhesive PVC tape, 19 mm wide
• Mounting jig, used to mount specimens on the tube
• Stencil for cutting specimens
• Vacuum cleaner
• EMPA photo scales
• Pilling viewing cabinet
TEST SPECIMEN
Pre-treatment such as laundering or dry clean is not to be carried out prior to testing.
If different constructions occur in the product, all of them need to be tested.
Each test requires 5 specimens. Four specimens are tested and one specimen is saved for the assessment.
The specimens are to be taken randomly from the sample, without having common widthwise and/or lengthwise
yarns. The specimen sides shall run parallel to the fabric edges.
Specimen Preparation:
1. Cut 5 test specimens from the sample, each 125mm x 125mm.

2. Four specimens are to be sewn into tubes; one specimen is to be saved for the assessment.
Fold two specimens in length direction and two specimens in width direction with the face side inwards.
3. Form a tube of each specimen by sewing a straight seam 12 mm from the cut edges.
4. Turn each specimen inside out.
5. Mount one specimen on each polyurethane tube by using the mounting jig. The specimen ends shall be on
equal distance from the ends of the tube. Ensure that both seam and seam allowance lie as flat as possible.
6. Apply self-adhesive tape around both cut ends of each specimen, so that the tape fixes the specimen onto
the tube and leaves 6 mm of the tube exposed. The length of the tape shall not exceed 1.5 times the
circumference of the tube.
1. Stitching
2. Adhesive tape
3. Polyurethane tube
4. Specimen
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Pic 1: Specimen Preparation
METHOD
1. Ensure that the pilling box is clean inside. If not, vacuum clean the pilling chambers.
2. Place the four specimens in the same pilling box. Close the lid and secure it by closing the clasps.
3. Tumble the tubes the number of revolutions stated in H&M requirements.
4. Remove the tubes from the box. Remove the tape and cut the seams.
RESULTS
Place the tested specimen as well as the untested specimen in the pilling viewing cabinet.
The tested specimen is assessed against the untested specimen.
Grade each specimen in accordance with EMPA photo scales as well as the grading scheme given below:
Grade Description
5 No change.
4 Slight surface fuzzing and/ or partially formed pills.
3 Moderate surface fuzzing and/ or moderate pilling. Pills of varying size
and density partially covering the specimen surface.
2 Distinct surface fuzzing and/ or distinct pilling. Pills of varying size and
density covering a large portion of the specimen surface.
1 Dense surface fuzzing and/ or severe pilling. Pills of varying size and
density covering the whole of the specimen surface.
Two technicians shall assess the specimens. It they do not have the same assessment and a mean cannot be
individual assessments will be the result.
- Number of revolutions
- Material composition of specimen
- Final grade
NOTE
After each test, make sure that all fluff is removed from the inside of the box with a vacuum cleaner. Periodically it
can be necessary to clean the cork liners if they have become contaminated by finishes from the test fabrics. Use
industrial methylated spirit. Cork liners should be exchanged minimum once per year or when needed.
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May, 2014
Effective Date:
May, 2014
Pilling Resistance – Martindale Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
To determine the pilling resistance of textiles according to ISO 12945-2.
EQUIPMENT
• Martindale abrasion testing machine
• Circular fabric sample cutter: specimen diameter 140 mm
• Cutting mat
• Specimen holders for pilling
• Loading pieces: Stainless steel discs, a mass of (260±1)g (used for woven testing only).
• Abradant (flat woven wool fabric)
• EMPA photo scales
• Pilling viewing cabinet
TEST SPECIMEN
Pre-treatment such as laundering or dry clean is not to be carried out prior to testing.
Each test requires 7 specimens. 6 specimens are tested and one specimen is saved for the assessment.
The specimens are to be taken randomly from the sample, without having common weft and/or warp threads.
Cut 7 specimens with the circular fabric sample cutter.
METHOD
1. Preparation of abrading tables (three per test):
- Place the abrading felt on the abrading table (Pic 1).
- Place the specimen with the face side upwards on the felt (Pic 1).
- Place the pilling table specimen mounting weight on top of the specimen to ensure that no creases occur
(Pic 2).
- Place the clamping ring on the abrading table and screw it firmly (Pic 2).
Pic 1 Pic 2
2. Preparation of specimen holders (three per test):

- Place the specimen holder ring around the device for specimen mounting and place both on the table as
shown in Pic 1.
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- Place the specimen with the face side downwards on the device for specimen mounting (Pic 2).
- Place the abrading felt on the specimen (Pic 2).
- Place the specimen holder on the specimen (Pic 3).
- Roll the specimen holder ring onto the specimen holder from the bottom of the device for specimen
mounting upwards. Ensure that no creases occur (Pic 4).
Pic 1 Pic 2 Pic 3
Pic 4
- Remove the device for specimen mounting.

- Place the specimen holder on the abrading table, fabric side down.
- For woven testing only: Place the loading weight onto the specimen holder.
3. Select position B for the three drive rollers.

Abrasion
Three drive rollers = Position C
Pilling
Three drive rollers = Position B
Straight Line
One front roller = Position A
Two back rollers = Position C
4. Move down the upper plate of the Martindale abrasion testing machine. Make sure the rollers sit in the
indents.
5. Install the metallic staff through the hole in the upper part of the machine into the specimen holder.
6. Run the test and stop after 125, 500 and 2000 revolutions. Assess the result after each stop in the viewing
cabinet without removing the specimen from the specimen holder. After each assessment, place the
specimen back onto its original position in the machine and continue testing.
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RESULTS
Place the tested specimen as well as the untested specimen in the pilling viewing cabinet.
The tested specimen is assessed against the untested specimen.
Grade each specimen in accordance with EMPA photo scales as well as the grading scheme given below:
Grade Description
5 No change.
4 Slight surface fuzzing and/ or partially formed pills.
3 Moderate surface fuzzing and/ or moderate pilling. Pills of varying size
and density partially covering the specimen surface.
2 Distinct surface fuzzing and/ or distinct pilling. Pills of varying size and
density covering a large portion of the specimen surface.
1 Dense surface fuzzing and/ or severe pilling. Pills of varying size and
density covering the whole of the specimen surface.
Two technicians shall assess the specimens. It they do not have the same assessment and a mean cannot be
individual assessments will be the result.
- Temperature and humidity at time of testing

- Number of rubs
- Description of the specimen
- Grade after 125, 500 and 2000 revolutions
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Strength (DS) ISO 12947-2/AC Latest Reviewed:
Annex A:2 May, 2014
Effective Date:
May, 2014
Pile Loss – Abrasion Resistance of Cord and Pile Fabrics Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
To determine the abrasion resistance of cord and pile fabrics.
EQUIPMENT
• Martindale abrasion testing machine
• Specimen holders for abrasion (38 mm in diameter)
• 9 kPa loading weight
• Light source
• Magnifying glass or microscope, e.g. 8 x magnification
• Cutting mat
• Abradant (flat woven wool fabric)
• Specimen holder foam backing (polyetherurethane foam material as an underlay for the test specimen
mounted in the specimen holder)
TEST SPECIMEN
For patterned fabrics or fabrics with textured surface, ensure that the test specimens contain all characteristics
of the pattern.
With pre-treatment
• 1 specimen, 140 mm in diameter to undergo pre-treatment. From the pre-treated specimen 3 specimens, each
• 38 mm in diameter, should be cut out.
Without pre-treatment
3 specimens, each 38 mm in diameter.
METHOD
If no pre-treatment should be carried out, go directly to method description for “Abrasion”.
Pre-treatment
1. Cut out 1 test specimen from the sample, 140 mm in diameter.
2. Mount the test specimen with the fabric backside upwards on the abrading table, on top of the felt
underlay. Compress test specimen and felt on the abradant table with the pressing weight (mass of 2.5±0.5
kg) and secure the clamping ring.
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3. Cut out 1 piece of abradant wool fabric and 1 piece of foam, each 38 mm in diameter.
4. Place the smaller specimen holder in the mounting device on the machine frame.
5. Place the abradant wool fabric in the specimen holder with face side down, and then place the foam
backing in there as well. Secure the specimen holder.
6. Place the mounted abradant in the machine and apply the 9 kPa loading weight.
7. Make sure the Martindale machine is set in abrasion mode (position C) and start the pre-treatment with
1000 revolutions.
Abrasion
Pilling
Straight Line
8. Remove the test specimen and check against a light source that no significant pile loss has occurred during
the pre-treatment. If not: continue the test.
Abrasion
1. Cut out 3 test specimens (38 mm in diameter) from the pre-treated test specimen. Make sure that you cut
them from the abraded area
2. Mount the 3 cut out specimens, together with foam, in the specimen holders with the face side downwards.
3. Cut out 3 pieces of the abradant wool fabric (140 mm in diameter) and mount them on top of the felt
underlay on the abrading table with face side upwards.
4. Place the mounted test specimens in the machine and apply the 9 kPa loading weight.
5. Start the abrasion test and stop at every 1000 revolutions.
a. If no bare parts have appeared, continue the test.
b. If any of the 3 specimens have failed, remove the failed specimens and then continue the test.
RESULTS
Check if the specimens have any visible bare parts, if needed with help from a magnifying glass, without removing
the test specimen from the specimen holder.
Report the individual specimen’s results and also the mean value in number of revolutions. Present the result
where the specimen was last checked and ok; for example if the specimen failed at 5000 revs  4000 revs
should be reported as the result.
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GQS Durability & Test procedure for 1
Strength (DS) EN 13770 Latest Reviewed:
May, 2014
Effective Date:
May, 2014
Abrasion resistance knitted socks & tights Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
To determinate the abrasion resistance of knitted socks and tights.
REFERENCE DOCUMENTS
EN ISO 12947-1 Determination of the abrasion resistance of fabrics
by the Martindale method – Part 1:Martindale
abrasion testing apparatus (ISO 12947-1:1998)
EQUIPMENT
4. Martindale abrasion machine as specified in EN ISO 12947-1
5. Modified specimen holders for knitted socks and tights
6. Springloaded tightening block spanner
7. 12 kPa loading weights
8. Abradant (flat woven wool fabric as described in EN ISO 12947-1)
9. Circular fabric sample cutter: specimen diameter 140 mm, for woven wool abradant
10. Circular fabric sample cutter: specimen diameter 38 mm, for test specimen
11. Cutting mat
TEST SPECIMEN
1. Cut out a minimum of totally four 38 mm diameter specimens; two from the toe and two from the heel.
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METHOD
Pic 1 Pic 2 Pic 3
Pic 4 Pic 5 Pic 6
2. Place the holder nut face down into the springloaded tightening block. (Pic 1)
3. Gather the cut specimen on the needle ring by placing the cut specimen face down onto a cutting mat,
place the needle ring centrally over the specimen and push the needles through the specimen. Lift carefully
so the specimen stays on the needles.
4. Place the needle ring with specimen intact into the holder nut with the needles on needle ring matching the
holes in the holder nut.
5. Place the 20 mm flat side of the rubber sphere onto reverse side of specimen, inside the opening of needle
ring.
6. Screw the holder body onto the holder nut.
7. Repeat this for all test specimens until all specimens are placed on a holder nut.
8. Place the wool abradant over the wool felt, and mount on the abradant tables. Compress abradant and felt
on the abradant table with the pressing weight (mass of 2.5±0.5 kg) and secure the clamping ring.
9. Place the mounted specimens in the machine. Apply the 12 kPa loading weight to each mounted specimen
(Pic 6).
10. Make sure the Martindale machine is set in abrasion mode (position C).
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Abrasion
Pilling
Straight Line
9. Set the machine to desired number of rubs (see H&M QS&R). Zero the totalizing counter and switch on the
machine.
10. Inspect each specimen at the finish of each pre-set cycle. Do not remove the specimen from the holder
during inspection. Look for any thinning and/or holes, and if necessary remove pills from surface of
specimen.
RESULTS
Evaluate for thinning and/or holes according to below cycle chart.
Estimated number of cycles to endpoint Inspection intervals

up to 5000 5000
greater than 5000 up to 10,000 1000
greater than 10,000 up to 15,000 2000
NOTE
During sampling and specimen preparation, prevent incorrect extension of the textile.
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Strength (DS) EN ISO 13936-2 Latest Reviewed:
May, 2014
Effective Date:
May, 2014
Seam Slippage (grab test) Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
To determine the resistance to slippage at a sewn seam of woven fabrics at a fixed load.
DEFINITIONS
Seam opening Distance between the yarns which have been
displaced on either side of the seam line.
EQUIPMENT
• CRE (constant rate of extension) testing machine with grab-test jaws.
TEST SPECIMEN
Test should be performed on seams according ready-made product.
Five test specimens from each type of seam that is chosen to be tested, approximate size: 200mm x 100mm.
METHOD
1. The machine should have following settings:
a. Gauge length: (100±1) mm
b. Rate of extension: (50±5) mm/min
c. Load according to below table:
Fabric weight Load applied
≤ 220 g/m2 60 N
> 220 g/m2 120 N
2. Secure the test specimen symmetrically in the clamps with the seam midway between and parallel to the
edges of the two clamps.
3. When the maximum load is reached, immediately reduce the load on the test specimen to 5 N and measure
the width of the seam opening (see Pic 1 or Pic 2 depending on seam type) at the widest place to the
nearest millimetre.
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Measurement 1 = width
1 of seam opening
Pic 1: Measuring seam opening on a single seam
1
Measurement 1+2 =
width of seam opening
2
Pic 2: Measuring seam opening on a double seam
RESULTS
If the fabric or the seam breaks down and the slippage cannot be measured, this shall be recorded as a failure.
State following in the test report:
a. Result in millimetres
b. Which area the test specimen was taken from
c. Any deviation from the given procedure
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Strength (DS) ASTM D4964-96 Latest Reviewed:
November, 2014
Effective Date:
May, 2014
Elongation, Modulus and Recovery of Elastics Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
To determine the elongation and modulus of elastics.
DEFINITIONS
Cycle Cyclic is a general term that refers to specimen
being repeatedly loaded and unloaded. This type of
test does not rupture or cause the specimen to fail.
Modulus The term for how much power (N) is used to stretch
a material to a specific extension.
EQUIPMENT
• Tensile testing machine, CRE-type equipped with an automatic recording device and cycling control, as
specified in ASTM D4964-96
• Band clamps with anvil diameter 6.5 ±0.25 mm
• Sewing machine with single needle
• Scissors
• Measuring tape
• Pen
TEST SPECIMEN
• Cut a total of five (5) specimens for each elastic to be tested.
• Cut each specimen 330 mm long.
• Mark 40 mm on one side. Mark 255 mm from the 40 mm mark, leaving 35 mm on the other end. (Pic 1)
• Mark 115 mm from one cut end. Mark 100 mm from the 115 mm mark, leaving 115 mm also on the other end.
(Pic 1)
• Sew the elastic to a loop along the 255 mm markings. The actual folded look shall be 255 mm long. (pic 2)
Pic 1
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Pic 2
METHOD
1. Set up the tensile testing machine according to the instructions from its manufacturer, using the following
information:
a. The circumference around the top and bottom clamps shall be 254 mm and the distance between the
clamps wide enough for the elastic being tested. (Pic 3)
Pic 3
b. Choose cyclic and give the following information:

- Standard name: ASTM D4964 (300 mm-min)
- Specimens: No direction.
- Jaw separation: 125.00 mm
- Pretension: 0,22 pound force (1.00 N)
- Maximum load: 22,48 pound force (100.00 N)
- Jaws scheme: T18-6.5.
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2. Mount the specimen with the seam between the clamps. (pic 4)
Pic 4
3. Start the test.

4. Cycle each specimen three (3) times. Record loading and extension from all cycles on the chart.
5. Remove the specimen and measure distance between the 100 mm bench mark within one minute after the
3rd cycle has finished.
6. Let the specimens rest flat on a table for 30 minutes.
7. Measure distance between 100 mm bench marks again.
8. Gather the test result records to get a final test result.
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RESULTS
Elongation and Modulus
From the result chart read

A) Extension at a certain pound force
B) Modulus at a certain extension
The chart below shows 3 cycles where A and B are marked on the last and third cycle.
Find the requirements on each elastics specification sheet.
RESULTS
Recovery
Distance between 100 mm bench marks within one minute after the 3rd cycle has finished.
Distance between 100 mm bench marks after 30 minutes rest.
NOTE
300 mm-min is a speed that lets the recording device keep up with the machine, do not exceed this.
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GQS Durability and HM TM DS:12 1.0
strength (DS) Latest Reviewed:
November, 2014
Effective Date:
November, 2014
Wire Casing Penetration Resistance Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
Determination of force at penetration of a wire casing in dry and wet condition.
EQUIPMENT
• Tensile testing machine, CRE-type equipped with an automatic recording device and cycling control.
• One pneumatic jaw
• Bra wire penetration tooling;
- diameter at point 2,6 mm
- protruding length: 15 mm
• Distilled water
TEST SPECIMEN
• Prepare a total of six (6) specimens for dry test
• Prepare a total of six (6) specimens for wet test
• Cut a 30 cm long piece of the wire casing being tested
• Cut the inner lining of wire case open from one end to middle point. At the middle of specimen, remove
approx. 3 cm of the inner lining. (pic 1)
Pic 1
• For wet condition testing, after the specimens are prepared same as for dry test; let them soak in distilled
water for 1 hour.
DRY TEST METHOD

1. Choose H&M TM DS-12
2. No pretension
3. Set break detection at 10,00%
4. Set maximum load at 500,00N
5. Jaws used are T2 for bottom and Bra Wire Penetration (BWP) for top.
6. Jaw separation: 75 mm ± 1 mm.
7. Speed: 100 mm/min
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8. Set up as it looks on Titan 510:
9. Attach the specimen onto the CRE machine so that the 3 cm area in the centre of specimen where the
inner lining is removed is placed on the penetration pin, wire case face side out (pic 2). Close the lower
jaws around the loose ends of specimen (pic 3).
Pic 2 Pic 3
10. Put the clamps in motion.

11. Repeat test procedure with all specimens.
WET TEST METHOD

• Immediately after specimens have been immersed in water for 1 hour, remove excess water by briefly placing
the specimen on blotting paper.
• Follow same procedure as for dry specimens.
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RESULTS
State the following in the test report:
a. Force of rupture in Newtons.

b. If no rupture, the maximum force.
c. Any deviation from the given procedure.
NOTE
Disregard any test results where the specimen slips out of clamps. Prepare new specimen and perform tests until
you have six results.
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GQS Durability and H&M TM DS:17 1.0
May, 2015
Effective Date:
May, 2015
Peeling test Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
This test method is to check the durability of surface appearance of metallic PU or Leather
EQUIPMENT
• Transparent tape
• Paper card - white and black
TEST PROCEDURE
1. Use transparent tape and stick on the surface of metallic PU or leather with slight force.
2. Peel out the transparent tape and assess both tape and surface of metallic PU or leather to check if any
peeling on appearance.
3. Stick the tested transparent tape on test paper card.
Example:
Metallic leather shell should be tested peeling test.
Use transparent tape and stick on the surface of leather
RESULTS
No serious peel off or obvious change on both transparent tape and appearance of metallic PU or leather.
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Durability & Strength – Non-textile
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May, 2014
Effective Date:
May, 2014
Drop Test – Accessory Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
To check that the accessories will not break too easily during transport, in shop or in use.
This test will detect the weak points that need to be improved.
EQUIPMENT
• Ceramic floor tile (same as in H&M shop)
• 150 cm measuring tape, permanently placed on the wall
It is important to have a fixed place where the test is performed in order

to have comparable results.
TEST SPECIMEN
5 samples
No hang-tags or display cards should be attached to the sample when tested (except for QC test before shipping).
METHOD
1. Drop each sample 5 times
2. Evaluate the result
RESULTS
The sample has failed if:
• Material breaks or shatter
• Soldering breaks
• Glued parts come off
• Clasps or functional parts stop working
• Large areas of coating and paint chips off
All samples pass PASS
Two or more
FAIL
samples fails
One of the five Test 5 more
samples fail samples
One or more fail FAIL
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Table 1: Products to test, or not to test
Main
material: Bone/ Natural
Plastic Metal Textile Resin Glass Shell Wood Ceramic
Secondary Horn stones
material:
Plastic ● ● ● ⃝ ⃝
Metal ● ● ● ⃝ ⃝ ⃝
Textile ● ● X ⃝
Resin ⃝ ⃝ ⃝
Glass ⃝ ⃝ ⃝
Shell ⃝ ⃝
Wood ● ● ● ⃝ ⃝
Bone/
● ● ⃝
Horn
Natural
● ● ⃝ ⃝ ⃝
stones
Ceramic ⃝ ⃝ ⃝
● MUST PASS TEST

RELEVANT TO TEST IN SOME CASES WHERE SPECIFIC DETAILS LIKE GLUING OR
⃝
SOLDERINGS NEED TO BE EVALUATED
NO NEED TO TEST, FRAGILE PRODUCTS – SPECIAL PACKAGING MIGHT BE NEEDED
X NO NEED TO TEST, NOT FRAGILE
Main material: The material that the product mostly consists of
Secondary material: The material that the product consists of the second most
If the product is made of two materials in the same amounts the strictest requirement applies.
Table 2: Some examples
Main material: Metal Main material: Main material: Main material: Main material: Main material:
Secondary: Wood Wood Wood Textile Textile Ceramic
Secondary: Metal Secondary: Wood Secondary: Metal Secondary: Plastic Secondary: Metal
● ⃝ ⃝ ● ● ●
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May, 2014
Effective Date:
May, 2014
Glue Test Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
To check if the glue will deteriorate during shipment, transportation and storing.
EQUIPMENT
• Oven (+60°C)
• Freezer (-20°C)
• Beaker, approx. 300 ml
• Ziploc plastic bag, approx. 20cm x 30cm
TEST SPECIMEN
5 samples / style
- Hard material on hard material (e.g. rhinestone + plastic, rhinestone + metal)
- Plastic mirror
- Glass mirror
METHOD
1. Drop the sample from 50 cm onto the drop test tile (3 times/sample). (See
drop test for more information on the tile.) If the glued parts detach there is
no need to continue the test.
2. Fill the beaker with water and turn on the oven
3. Place the beaker and the samples in the plastic bag and close the Ziploc bag.
4. Place the bag in the oven at +60°C for 15 hours.
5. After 15 hours: remove the bag from the oven. Open the bag and remove the
beaker with water.
6. Without letting it cool down, place the samples (still in the bag) in the freezer
for 8 hours.
7. After 8 hours: remove from the freezer and let the product defrost for 30
min in room temperature.
8. Drop the sample from 50 cm onto the drop test tile (3 times/sample).
RESULTS
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• Any glued part of the product detach
Two or more
FAIL
samples fails
All of the extra 5
PASS
samples pass
One of the five
Test 5 more samples
samples fail
One or more of the
FAIL
extra 5 samples fail
NOTE
If tested at a lab that has access to more advanced equipment where the humidity can be controlled:
Drop test: 50 cm, 3 times
Hot storage: (60±0.5)°C, (95±2)% RH, 15 hours
Cold storage: (-20±0.5)°C, 8 hours
Cool down: (25±0.5)°C, 30 min
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November, 2014
Effective Date:
May, 2014
Handle Strength Test – Bags and Small Leather Goods Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
To determine a handle’s resistance to load. For bags and small leather goods.
DEFINITIONS
Bag Product with handles used for carrying goods.
This includes but is not limited to:
- Handbags
- Storage bags
- Small items that can be held by a handle strap. Example: Pouch bags
Both the bag and the handle can be made from various materials including
leather, PU, fabric, metal and plastic etc.
Small Leather Goods (SLG) Leather items that can be held by a handle strap made from various materials.
Example: Pouch bags
EQUIPMENT
• Suspension device:
- Clothing rack
- Carbine hook(s): 12mm x 120 x 100 mm (diameter x length x inner height)
- Shackle bow(s): 14mm x 28mm x 56mm (bolt diameter, jaw gap, length)
• Plastic balls:
- Ø 10 mm
- Amount: Depends on the size of the bag to be tested, but maximum 7.5 l/test = 7500 balls.
• Solid metal balls:
- Ø 10 mm
- Amount: Depends on the size of the bag to be tested, but maximum 15 kg/test.
• Measuring jug, 2 litre capacity
• Handy scale
TEST SPECIMEN
1 sample of each type is to be tested.
METHOD
Part 1
The bag handle is placed in a suspension device (clothing rack + shackle bow + carbine hook) and is freely
suspended for 1 hour.
Part 2
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Afterwards the bag handle is lifted vertically and released to fall freely until it is instantly stopped by the lower
end of the carbine hook.
Volume Determination
1. Using a measuring jug, fill the bag with plastic balls until the bag is full or when you have filled it with 7.5
litres. Close the bag.
- The bag is full when it is filled with balls but still possible to close.
- The maximum load is 15 kg for all bags larger than 7.5 litres. This means that if the bag is larger
than 7.5 liters you don’t need to keep filling it.
2. Note the amount of plastic balls in litres. This is the volume of the bag.
Load Determination
3. The load for each bag is determined as 2 times the volume (1 litre is equivalent to 2 kg load).
Examples:
Volume Load
- measured in litre plastic balls - measured in kg metal balls
1l 2 kg
2.5 l 5 kg
5l 10 kg
7.5 l 15 kg
> 7.5 l 15 kg
Test Procedure
4. Attach the carbine hook to the clothing rack by help of the shackle bow (see pictures below).
+ =
5. Load the specimen using steel balls. Fill all internal and external pockets.
Check with the handy scale that the bag is filled with the correct loading weight.
Part 1
6. Hang the bag handle in the carbine hook and suspend freely for 1 hour. If the specimen has two handles
that do not meet, use 1 shackle bow and 1 carbine hook for each handle (see picture below).
One handle Two handles that meet Two handles that do not meet
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Part 2
7. Lift the bag handle vertically to the upper end of the carbine hook (see picture below).
Release the bag handle and let it fall freely until it is instantly stopped by the lower end of the carbine
hook.
Upper end of carbine hook
Lift up Let fall
8. Repeat point 7 for a total of 10 times.

9. If the bag has got several handles, each handle shall be tested separately. In order to do so, restart at
point 6.
RESULTS
Assess visually as per the requirement stated in H&M Quality Standards & Requirements.
NOTE
To save time the metal balls can be pre-weighed and placed in ziplock bags. The whole ziplock bag can be placed
in the bag and the balls do not need to be weighed each time. For small bags loose balls will still be needed.
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Example for how the balls can be divided:
2 ziplocks each containing 0.5 kg
= Total 15 kg
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May 2016
November, 2014
Effective Date:
May, 2014
Handle Strength Test – Food Contact Products Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
To determine a handle’s resistance to load. For insulated flasks/carafes/air-pots/food-flasks.
DEFINITIONS
Filler Inner container, usually of glass, metal or plastics
material, of an insulated product
Nominal capacity Declared usable volume
EQUIPMENT
• Suspension device:
- Clothing rack
- Carbine hook: 12mm x 120 x 100 mm (diameter x length x inner height)
- Shackle bow: 14mm x 28mm x 56mm (bolt diameter, jaw gap, length)
• - Canvas support strap: width equal to either the extent of the handle or 100 mm, whichever is the lesser
• Solid metal balls:
- Ø 10 mm
- Amount: Depends on the size of the product to be tested.
• Handy scale
TEST SPECIMEN
Minimum 3 samples of each type have to be tested. In the event of one of the 3 samples failing the test, an
additional 7 products shall be tested and these shall all pass.
METHOD
1. Fill the product to its nominal capacity with water at ambient temperature.
2. Weigh the filled product.
3. Empty the product. If the filler is of glass, remove the filler.
4. Add metal balls until the mass of the product and metal balls is equal to twice the mass of water filled
product.
5. Attach the carbine hook to the clothing rack by help of the shackle bow (see pictures below).
+ =
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6. Attach the canvas supporting strap to the handle of the product and hang the product in the canvas
supporting strap in the carbine hook (see picture below).
7. Lift the canvas supporting strap vertically to the upper end of the carbine hook (see picture below).
Release the canvas supporting strap and let the product fall freely until it is instantly stopped by the lower
end of the carbine hook.
8. Let the product hang in the canvas supporting strap at the lower end of the carbine hook for 1 hour.
9. Inspect the product.
RESULTS
If any visible damage of the product, the product fails the test.
Upper end of carbine hook
Lift up Let fall
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May 2016
May, 2014
Effective Date:
May, 2014
Pull Force Strength Test – Accessories Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
To test the strength of chains and cords in small accessories (i.e. bracelets, necklaces and terry bands)
EQUIPMENT
• Device capable of measuring pull force (pull testing gauge, dynamometer or other)
TEST SPECIMEN
5 samples
METHOD
1. The sample should be tested as a loop
2. The clasp/jointing point should be centred during the test.
3. Pull until slowly to the appropriate force (see below) and hold The clasp/joining point should be centred
for 10 s
4. If the sample snap or break the result is FAIL
Force
Jewellery: 20 N
Terry band/hair band:

a) without jointing point: 10 N
b) joint with glue/knot/stitch: 20 N
c) joint with metal clip: 25 N
a) b) c)
RESULTS
Two or more
FAIL
samples fails
All of the extra 5
PASS
samples pass
One or more of the
FAIL
extra 5 samples fail
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May 2016
September, 2013
Effective Date:
May, 2014
Cross-cut Test for Paints and Varnishes Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
To ensure that the paint or varnish do not separate or fall of from the product.
This method works for both hard substrates (metal, plastic) and soft substrates (wood, plaster).
EQUIPMENT
• Cutter with V-shaped cutting edge; either multiblade cutter with 2 mm between the blades (CC2000
cutter) or single blade cutter
• Adhesive tape
• Magnifying lens
• Brush
TEST SPECIMEN
METHOD
1. Ensure that the cutting edge of the blade is sharp. If not change the blade.
2. Cut six parallel cuts in the coating with 2 mm between each cut. All cuts shall mark or scratch the substrate.
If the coating is too hard to cut the test shall be declared as invalid.
3. Repeat step 2 to cut further six parallel cuts crossing the first cuts at 90° so that a lattice pattern is formed.
4. Carefully remove any loose paint or varnish from the cutting area.
5. Place the centre of the tape over the lattice in a direction parallel to one set of cuts and smooth the tape
into place over the area of the lattice. Rub the tape firmly with your fingertip. See Figure 1.
Figure 1. Tape position over the cuts.
6. Wait 5min.
7. Remove the tape by grasping the free end and pulling it off steadily in 0.5 s to 1.0 s at an angle which is as
close as possible to 60°. See Figure 2.
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Figure 2. Removal angle.
8. Visually check the cut area in a light box and classify according to Table 2.
Table 2. Appearance of surface of cross-cut area from which flaking has occurred
Classification Evaluation Example of
appearance
0 No remarks. The edges of the cuts are
completely smooth. No material has flaked.
1 Somewhat uneven cuts. Detachment of small

flakes of the coating at the intersections of
the cuts. Maximum 5 % of the area may be
affected.
2 Clearly uneven cuts. The coating has flaked

along the edges and/or at the intersections
of the cuts. Maximum 15 % of the area may
be affected.
3 Very uneven cuts. The coating has flaked

along the edges of the cuts partly or wholly in
large ribbons, and/or it has flaked partly or
wholly on different parts of the squares.
Maximum 35 % of the area may be affected.
4 Severe flaking of material. The coating has
flaked along the edges of the cuts in large
ribbons and/or some squares have detached
partly or wholly. Maximum 65 % of the area
may be affected.
5 Any degree of flaking that cannot even be
classified by classification 4.
---
RESULTS
No product shall exceed the classification given in the requirements.
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GPQD Durability & H&M TM DS:19 3.0
strength Latest Reviewed:
May, 2016
Effective Date:
September, 2016
Adhesive Strength Test on Coating & Decoration Effective Until:
Further notice
Purpose
To ensure the coating and decoration do not separate or fall of from the product.
This method works for coated wood, plaster, candle, glass etc. Also applicable for the product where surface is
not enough to perform cross cut test.
Equipment
Scotch tape 3M 616
Method
1. Make sure the test area is clean, dry, and free from grease.
2. Apply the scotch tape on the full length of the print and/or decoration.
3. Press the tape firmly onto the test surface.
4. Leave the tape for one minute.
5. Remove the tape rapidly, starting with an angle of approx. 90 degrees and pulling at 45 degrees.
6. Repeat the test 3 times for the same test area with a new piece of tape each time.
Results
The sample has passed when it fulfills all requirements below:
• Traces of excess colour from the print or decoration on the tape are acceptable as long as the
print/decoration remains intact.
• Legally required text print, i.e. list of ingredients, warnings, license logo, H&M address etc. must remain clear
and easy to read.
• Decorative prints must look acceptable in comparison with approved sample.
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May 2016
September, 2013
Effective Date:
May, 2014
Air Leakage Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
To ensure that the inflatable product keeps inflated.
TEST SPECIMEN
METHOD
1. Inflate the product until full shape.
2. Let it rest for 24 hours.
3. Visually inspect that the product is still full shape.
RESULTS
Report if leakage was found.
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May 2016
September, 2013
Effective Date:
May, 2014
Resistance to Over Inflation Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
To ensure that the inflatable product does not burst during over inflation.
TEST SPECIMEN
METHOD
1. Blow air into the product to inflate it to full shape.
2. Try to blow more air into the product. Repeat five times.
3. Visually inspect that no burst had occur on the product.
RESULTS
Report if bursting occurred.
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May 2016
September, 2013
Effective Date:
May, 2014
Puncture Resistance Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
To ensure that the inflatable product is puncturing safe.
EQUIPMENT
• Steel needle with a tip with a radius of 0.5 mm.
TEST SPECIMEN
METHOD
1. Inflate the product until full shape.
2. Apply a force of 5 N gradually over a period of 5 s to the product’s surface.
3. Maintain the force for another 5 s.
4. Submerge the product or the tested part of the product, in a bath of water and examine for air leakage.
RESULTS
Report if puncture occurred.
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May 2016
December, 2013
Effective Date:
May, 2014
Hanging Test Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
To ensure that a product intended for hanging on the wall can be hang on the wall and used without being
deformed.
DEFINITIONS
Test wall A half inch (13 mm) thick drywall
Decorating items Photo frames, wall mirrors and other products to
be hang on the wall for decorating
Decorative hooks/knobs Small hooks used for decoration or to hang
necklaces on
Children´s hooks/knobs Hooks for children
Adults hooks/knobs Hooks for adults
Loading weight for 500 g for single hooks
decorative hooks/knobs 1 kg for multi-hooks (divided on all the hooks)
Loading weight for 5 kg
children´s hooks/knobs
Loading weight for adults 7 kg
hooks/knobs
EQUIPMENT
• Test wall
• Screws
• Plugs for drywall
TEST SPECIMEN
METHOD
1. Choose screws and plugs that suits the product.
2. Pre-drill holes for the plugs. It´s important that the hole is not larger than the plug just goes to press into the
hole.
3. Attach the product to the wall in the correct way. If there´s an instruction attached please follow that.
4. For decorating items: Let the product hang on the wall for one hour.
For hooks and knobs: Place the correct loading weight to the product. Let the product hang on the wall for
twenty-four hours.
RESULTS
If any visible damage or deformation on the product, the product fail the test.
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May 2016
GQS Durability & Test Procedure 1.0
Strength (DS) for EN 12546-1:5.8 Latest Reviewed:
December, 2013
Effective Date:
May, 2014
Impact for Vacuum Insulated Containers Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
To ensure that insulated flasks/carafes/air-pots can withstand impact from a drop according to EN 12546-1:5.5.
DEFINITIONS
Hard wood surface A piece of hard wood to drop the product to e.g. a
piece of white oak.
EQUIPMENT
• A hard wood surface of less than 3 cm thickness e.g. white oak
• Concrete floor
TEST SPECIMEN
METHOD
For vacuum insulated containers
1. Fill the product to its full capacity with water at ambient temperature.
2. Drop the product in an upright position from a height of 10 cm onto the hard wood surface. Perform the
drop test in such a manner so as to achieve a single impact and prevent toppling.
For non-vacuum insulated products
1. Fill the product to its full capacity with water at ambient temperature.
2. Drop the product 3 times from a height of 80 cm onto the concrete floor: Once on the bottom and twice on
the sides. Change the impact point each time.
RESULTS
If any visible damage on the outside or if the filler is broken the product fails the test.
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May 2016
GPCD Durability & Test Procedure 1.0
Strength (DS) for QB/T 1143 Latest Reviewed:
November, 2014
Effective Date:
November, 2014
Key Holder Test Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
This procedure describes the Chinese standard for key holders QB/T 1143 clause 5.1 and 5.2. Please note that key
holders also have to comply with clause 5.3-5.7.
5.1 Flexibility test of key buckle

5.2 Flexibility test of key ring
5.3 Static tensile strength for key holder, 30N
5.4-5.6 Visual inspection of surface and assembly
5.7 Corrosion resistance of plating, Rp≥6 (5% salt solution, 6h, 35°C)
EQUIPMENT
• Drill bit 4mm in diameter (tape the drill part to avoid cutting
injuries, it is the stem that is used for testing)
• Feeler gauge
TEST SPECIMEN
1 specimen per test
METHOD
Key buckles (5.1)
1. Insert the stem of the drill stem into the opening of the buckle 5 times.
2. Measure the opening of the buckle when closed.
Key rings (5.2)
1. Insert the stem of the drill between the 2 loops of the key ring.
2. Encircle the key ring with the drill, and then take it out.
3. Repeat 3 times
4. Measure the distance between the 2 loops of the key ring.
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RESULTS
Key buckles (5.1)
• The gap shall not exceed 0.15 mm which means that if the 0.20 mm gauge fits in the opening the test result
is fail.
Key rings (5.2)
• The gap shall not exceed 0.50 mm which means that if the 0.55 mm gauge fits in the opening the test result
is fail.
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May 2016
GQS Durability and Working method 1.0
strength (DS) for EN ISO 13934-1 Latest Reviewed:
November, 2014
Effective Date:
November, 2014
Ring & Slider Tensile Strength Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
To determine the strength of ring and slider used for bra straps.
EQUIPMENT
• Tensile testing machine, CRE-type equipped with an automatic recording device and cycling control
• Band clamps with an anvil diameter 6,5 ± 0,25mm
• Totally stiff cotton band in the same width as the ring and slider being tested
• Sewing machine with single needle
TEST SPECIMENS
• Prepare a total of five (5) specimens for each size of ring to be tested.
• Ring specimen:
Cut two pieces of stiff band, the same width as the diameter of the ring, 20 cm long each. Sew to the ring as
shown on pic 1. Mark 10 cm on the bands, starting at the centre of the ring. The gauge length between the
markings is now 20cm, as illustrated on pic 1.
Pic 1
• Slider specimen:
Cut one piece of stiff band in same width as the slider, 40 cm long. Start by sewing the band onto the middle
bar of the slider (pic 2). Run the other end of the band through the slider as on a bra strap and as illustrated on
pic 3. Make the loop 10 cm long, and sew a seam, attaching the two bands to each other, 1 cm from the edge.
Mark the single band 10cm from the centre bar of the slider. The gauge length between the loop edge and
marking is now 20cm, as illustrated on pic 3.
Pic 2
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Pic 3
METHOD
1. Choose EN ISO 13934-1 (200mm 20mm/min) since there is stiff band in this test.
2. Set the pretention at 1N.
3. Set the break % at 5%.
4. Set maximum load to 200N.
5. Choose jaws T18-6,5.
6. Set up as it looks on Titan 510:
7. Attach the specimen to the bars.
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8. Engage any recording device, recording the force of rupture, and if no rupture the maximum force.
RESULTS

NOTE
Disregard any test results where the seams break. Prepare a new specimen and perform tests until you have five
valid results.
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May 2016
November, 2014
Effective Date:
November, 2014
Hook and Eye Tensile Strength Test Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
To determine the tensile strength of hook and eye for bras and other lingerie.
DEFINITIONS
Specimen One (1) set of hook and eye attached to each other
in the last row of eyes.
EQUIPMENT
• Tensile testing machine, CRE-type equipped with an automatic recording device and cycling control
• Pneumatic jaws
TEST SPECIMEN
• Five (5) specimens shall be tested.
• Fasten hooks in last/outer row of eyes.
• Mark the very endings of the hook and eye inside. (Pic 1)
• Measure the distance between the markings. (4,5 cm on Pic 2)
• •
• Pic 1 • Pic 2
METHOD
1. Choose H&M TM DS:14.
2. Set it on 5 specimens, no direction.
3. Jaw separation to be as measured and marked on specimens.
4. No pretension
5. Set break detection at 20%
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6. Set rate of extension at 500 mm/min
7. Set rate of return at 500 mm/min
8. Set maximum load depending on the number of hook and eye
1 hook & eye: 90 N
2-3 hook & eye: 160 N
4 ≤ hook & eye: 200 N
9. Set the break detection at 20 %
10. Set rate of extension at 500 mm/min
11. Set rate of return at 500 mm/mins.
Set up as it looks on Titan 510:
12. Position the specimen into the jaws with hook side in bottom jaw and eye in top jaw. (Pic 3)
When closing the jaws, make sure no part – visible on nonvisible – of the hook and eye are between the jaws,
but only the fabric.
Pic 3
13. Engage any recording device, recording the force of rupture, and if no rupture the maximum force.
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RESULTS

H&M Lab Manual 170

May 2016
May, 2015
Effective Date:
May, 2015
Drop Test - Footwear Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
To check the accessories will not easily break or come off during transportation, in shop and in use.
EQUIPMENT
• Ceramic floor tile ( same as in H&M shop)
• 150 cm measuring tap , permanently vertically placed on the wall
• It is important to have a fixed place where the test is performed in order
to have comparable results.
TEST SPECIMEN
1 pair of shoes per test in Q/S and C/S stage
3 pairs of shoes per test both in P/S inline and final stage
Test applicable to the following styles:
- Rhinestone covered with metal - Rhinestone glued on material
METHOD
1. 3 times free fall at the 150cm height for each sample;
2. Evaluate the damage for each sample.
RESULT
The sample failed if:
For Q/S & C/S only judge as PASS if the tested 1 pair samples both passed.
For P/S test judgement should follow the below rules:
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2 or more pair s
FAIL
fail
1 of the 3 pairs
Test 3 more pairs
fail
1 or more fail FAIL
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May 2016
May, 2015
Effective Date:
May, 2015
Glue Test - Footwear Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
To check the accessories will not easily break or come off during transportation, in shop and in use.
EQUIPMENT
• Oven (+60°C)
• Freezer (-20°C)
• Beaker, approx. 300 ml
• Ziploc plastic bag, approx. 20cm x 30cm
TEST SPECIMEN
1 pair of shoes per test in Q/S and C/S stage
3 pair of shoes per test both in P/S inline and final stage
Test applicable to the following styles:
- Rhinestone covered with metal - Rhinestone glued on material
METHOD
1. Drop the sample from 150 cm onto the drop test tile (3 times/sample). (See
Drop Test - Footwear for more information about the tile)
If the glued parts detach there is no need to continue the test.
2. Fill the beaker with water and turn on the oven.
3. Place the beaker and the samples in the plastic bag and close the Ziploc bag.
4. Place the bag in the oven at +60°C for 15 hours.
5. Remove the bag from the oven after 15 hours curing and then open the bag
to remove the beaker.
6. Without letting it cool down, place the samples (still in the bag) in the freezer
for 8 hours.
7. After 8 hours in the freezer move it out and let sample (still in the bag)
defrost for 30 min in room temperature.
8. Repeat step 4-7 once.
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9. Drop the sample from 150 cm height onto the drop test tile (3 times/sample).
RESULT
• Any glued part of the decorations detach
For Q/S & C/S only judge as PASS if the tested 1 pair samples both passed.
For P/S test judgement should follow the below rules:
2 or more pairs
FAIL
fails
1 of the 3 pairs fail Test 3 more pairs
1 or more fail FAIL
NOTE
If tested at a lab that has access to more advanced equipment where the humidity can be controlled:
Hot storage: (60±0.5)°C, (95±2)%, 15 hours
Unfreezing: (25±0.5)°C, 30 min
Hot storage: (60±0.5)°C, (95±2)%, 15 hours
Cool down: (25±0.5)°C, 30 min
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May 2016
GPCD Durability & H&M TM DS:18 1.0
Effective Date:
Ring & Buckle Tensile Strength Effective Until:

Further notice
PURPOSE
To determine the tensile strength of ring and buckle for pet collars
EQUIPMENT
• Tensile testing machine, CRE-type as specified in EN ISO 13934-2
TEST SPECIMEN
Minimum 3 samples.
METHOD
1. Set up the tensile testing machine according to the instructions from its manufacturer.
2. Use the T18-13 loop bars.
3. Choose EN ISO 13934-2.
4. Choose maximum load depending on product (requirement specified in QS&R).
5. Mount the specimen with the buckle between the clamps.
6. Start the test and extend the test specimen to the point of rupture or until the maximum force is reached.
RESULTS
Record the result in newton. All specimens should pass the requirement.
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May 2016
GPQD Durability & H&M TM DS:20 3.0
Strength test Latest Reviewed:
May, 2016
Effective Date:
Bristles tufts/tines resistance, cushion, tips, end plugs, September, 2016
Effective Until:
caps, conjunction parts resistance of Hair brush Further notice
BRISTLE TUFT/TINES
Purpose
To evaluate bristles tufts/tines resistance.
Equipment
Pull test machine
Method
1. Clamp the bristles, making sure that all strands are firmly held.
2. Using the pull test machine, apply a standard force to pull the brush bristles.
3. Every brush should be tested at least on 5 bristle tufts/tines.
Results
Pass: Bristle loss <10 units.
CUSHION
Purpose
To evaluate cushion, tips, end plugs, caps, and conjunction parts resistance.
Equipment
Pull test machine
Method - Cushion
1. Clamp bristles/tines located around the periphery of the brush head.
Using the pull test machine, apply a standard force to pull the brush bristles.
2. Every brush should be tested at least on 4 points around the periphery of the brush head.
Results
It shall withstand a pulling force ≥10N.
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Test failed
TIPS
Purpose
To evaluate bristles tufts/tines resistance.
Equipment
Pull test machine
Method
1. Clamp bristles/tines tips.
2. Using the pull test machine, apply a standard force to pull the brush bristles tips.
3. Every brush should be tested at least on 5 tips.
Results
It shall withstand a pulling force ≥5 N.
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Performance – Textile
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May 2016
GQS Performance H&M TM PE:01 1.0
(PE) Latest Reviewed:
May, 2014
Effective Date:
May, 2014
Evaporation Test Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
To measure the evaporation of liquid from a fabric into the surrounding atmosphere.
EQUIPMENT
• Sample cutter, area of 100 cm2
• Scale
• Water
• Pipette
• Stopwatch or suitable timer
TEST SPECIMEN
Take three specimens from different places of the product/fabric.
METHOD
1. Use the sample cutter and cut a specimen measuring 100 cm2.
2. Weigh the specimen (W0).
3. Add 0.2g water (approximately 5 drops) from a distance of 10 cm. Do not add all at once; add drop by drop
separately and spread them on the surface.
4. Note the weight of fabric and water together (W1).
5. Weigh the sample again after 30 minutes (W2).
RESULTS
Calculate: (W1-W2)/(W1-W0) x 100
Where:
W0 = original specimen
W1 = specimen + water
W2 = specimen + left over water after 30 min
NOTE
Since H&M does not have a requirement for drying rate this is only for our own record to compare fabrics.
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May 2016
May, 2014
Effective Date:
May, 2014
Spray Test (Surface Wetting) Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
To determine a fabrics resistance to surface wetting before and after one wash.
REFERENCE DOCUMENTS
EQUIPMENT
• Spray device
• Distilled water, at (20±2)⁰C
• Sewing machine
TEST SPECIMEN
Take three specimens from different places of the product/fabric for testing before wash & three for testing after
wash. Do not take specimens from places with creases or fold marks. The specimens need to be at least 180mm x
180mm to be able to be secured by the specimen holder.
METHOD
1. Condition the specimen for 4 hours.
2. Mount the specimen in the specimen holder with the face side of the fabric upwards. Place specimen so the
warp or length direction is parallel to the flow of water down the specimen.
3. Pour 250 ml of water into the funnel. The duration of the flow from the spray nozzle shall be between 25 to
30 seconds.
4. Sew along the edges of the specimen to be washed and wash follow the procedure described in H&M TM
LA:01.
5. Repeat step 1-3 for the washed samples.
RESULTS
a. Reference to this standard

b. Type of detergent
c. Type of wash load, ballast or if washed with other specimen
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May 2016
May, 2014
Effective Date:
May, 2014
Wicking – Vertical Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
To measure the wicking properties of a product which is labelled with the Quick Dry function.
EQUIPMENT
• 5 rods or pens
• 5 glass bowls
• 5 clips or pins
• Distilled water, room temperature
• Stopwatch or suitable timer
• Ruler
TEST SPECIMEN
5 specimens in each direction, all measuring 200mm x 25mm.
METHOD
1. Fold one end of the specimen and secure it on a rod or pen using a needle or a clip.
2. Place the rod over the opening of a glass bowl so the specimen hangs in the bowl without touching the
bottom.
3. Fill the bowl with water till the specimen is immersed 20 mm in the water.
4. Leave the specimen for 30 minutes.
5. After 30 minutes measure how far the water has moved vertically, starting 20 mm from the edge (The point
which was the starting point for the wicking).
RESULTS
The average result from the 5 specimens is the final result.
NOTE
If reaching the requirement before 30 minutes it is ok to stop the test and report the result as passed.
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May 2016
May, 2014
Effective Date:
May, 2014
Cold Test Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
To determine the suitability of a garment, fabric or trim to cold climate.
EQUIPMENT
• Freezer (-18 ±2)⁰C
TEST SPECIMEN
Component, garment or part of garment.
METHOD
1. Place the product in a freezer (-18 ±2)°C for 30 minutes.
2. Take out the specimen and evaluate the hand feel immediately.
3. Bend the fabric to see if it cracks.
RESULTS
Evaluate the stiffness of the fabric hand feel and if any cracking has occurred.
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May 2016
Performance – Non-textile
H&M Lab Manual 183

May 2016
November, 2014
Effective Date:
December, 2013
Lid Performance Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
To ensure that the lid fits the product and does not let the content leak from the product.
DEFINITIONS
EQUIPMENT
• Ultra Concentrated DAWN or other similar surfactant
TEST SPECIMEN
METHOD
16. Fill the product to 75% of its nominal capacity with water at ambient temperature.
For insulated flasks/carafes/air-pots: Fill the product with boiling water containing 0.5% of Ultra
Concentrated DAWN.
17. Put the lid on the product and make sure the lid is securely in place.
18. Thoroughly dry the outside of the product including the lid, stopper etc.
19. Tip the product in different angles and turn the product upside down. Place the product in an upside down
position for at least 10 minutes.
20. Check if any water has poured out of the product.
RESULTS
If any water drops have appeared outside the product, the product fails the test.
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May 2016
December, 2013
Effective Date:
December, 2013
Lid Security Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
To ensure that the lid not separates from the vessel during pouring.
DEFINITIONS
Protractor Any square, circular or semicircular measuring
instrument for measuring angles.
EQUIPMENT
• Protractor
TEST SPECIMEN
Products representative of those intended to be supplied commercially.
METHOD
1. Put the lid in its right position on the vessel.
2. Tip the vessel at different angles between 0-90° from a horizontal level. If the lid separate from the product
the product fails the test, don´t proceed to the next step.
3. Fill the product with water at ambient temperature.
4. Pour water by tipping the vessel at different angles between 0-90° from a horizontal level.
0° 90°
RESULTS
If the lid separates from the vessel at an angel of < 90° the product fails the test.
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May 2016
GQS Performance Test Procedure 1.0
(PE) for EN 12546-1:5.7 Latest Reviewed:
December, 2013
Effective Date:
December, 2013
Seal Leakage Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
To ensure that the product is sealed and does not leak according to EN 12546-1:5.5.
EQUIPMENT
A sheet of white paper of 200mm x 200mm
TEST SPECIMEN
METHOD
1. Place the paper on a plane surface.
2. Fill the product with water at ambient temperature up to the pouring edge.
3. Place the product in the middle of the paper and let the product stand for 2 hours.
4. Check whether the water level has dropped or if any water has leaked to the paper.
RESULTS
If the product has leaked water, the product fails the test.
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May 2016
GQS Performance(PE) H&M TM PE:12 3.0
Approval Date:
May, 2016
Effective Date:
September, 2016
Seal Leakage of Filled Container with Liquid Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
To ensure that the container is sealed properly and not leaked during handling & shipping.
EQUIPMENT
A sheet of white paper of 200mm x 200mm
TEST SPECIMEN
METHOD
5. Place the paper on a plane surface.
6. Tip the container in different angles for 10 times and turn the product upside down.
7. Place the product in the middle of the paper and let the product stand for 2 hours.
8. Check whether the liquid level has dropped or if any liquid has leaked to the paper.
RESULTS
If the container has leaked liquid, the product fails the test.
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May 2016
December, 2013
Effective Date:
December, 2013
Pouring Characteristics Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
To ensure that vessels, carafes and insulated flasks/carafes/air-pots pour liquid in a single stream without
spluttering.
DEFINITIONS
Protractor Any square, circular or semicircular measuring
instrument for measuring angles.
EQUIPMENT
• Protractor
• A cup with a diameter of 6-8 cm
• A sheet of white paper of 200 mm x 200 mm
TEST SPECIMEN
METHOD
1. Fill the product with black tea, coffee or coloured water at ambient temperature..
2. Place the paper on a plane surface and place the cup in the middle of the paper.
3. Pour the liquid by tipping the product at different angles between 45-90° from a horizontal level from a
height of 5 cm from the rim of the cup to get different flow of the stream.
45° 90°
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May 2016
45° 90°
4. Inspect the paper.
RESULTS
If the stream from the vessel or carafe divides in to more than a single stream or if any splutter occurs on the
paper the product fails the test.
H&M Lab Manual 189

May 2016
November, 2014
Effective Date:
December, 2013
Stability for Ceramic and Food Contact Products Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
To ensure that the product is stable and will not tip over if it is placed on a gently sloping surface.
DEFINITIONS
EQUIPMENT
TEST SPECIMEN
METHOD
1. Place the product empty on the incline plane at 10° from a horizontal level.
2. Rotate the product around the vertical axis for 360° to check overturn and rocking.
3. Fill the product to 25% of its nominal capacity with water at ambient temperature and repeat step 1 and 2.
RESULTS
If the product tips over the product fails the test.
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May 2016
November, 2014
Effective Date:
May, 2014
Heat Loss Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
To ensure that insulated flasks/carafes/air-pots keep the heat of their content according to EN 12546-1:5.4.
DEFINITIONS
Flask Insulated container for liquid, intended to be
transported, having a narrow mouth for pouring
Carafe Insulated container for liquid, intended for table top
use, generally fitted with a side handle
Air-pot Insulated container, intended for table top use,
whose contents are released by applying air
pressure through a pump system so that the liquid
contents are forced up from the bottom of the
container and out of the container via a nozzle
Food-flask Insulated container for food, intended to be
transported, having a wide mouth
Table top use Non-transportation use, such that if shaken or
knocked over spillage is likely
EQUIPMENT
• Thermometer (accuracy ±1°C)
TEST SPECIMEN
METHOD
1. Pre-heat the product for 5±1 minutes by filling it to its nominal capacity with hot water at ≥95°C.
2. Empty the product and immediately fill it to its nominal capacity with water at ≥95°C.
3. Apply the stopper.
4. Let the product stand in a place with a temperature of 20±2°C for 6 hours.
5. Measure the temperature of the water.
RESULTS
The water temperature shall not be lower than those required in H&M Quality Standards & Requirements.
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May 2016
November, 2014
Effective Date:
May, 2014
Thermal Shock Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
To ensure that insulated flasks/carafes/air-pots can withstand different temperatures of the content according to
EN 12546-1:5.5.
DEFINITIONS
EQUIPMENT
• Thermometer (accuracy ±1°C)
TEST SPECIMEN
METHOD
1. Fill the product to its nominal capacity with water at 15±1°C.
2. Let the product stand for 5 minutes.
3. Empty the product and immediately fill it to its nominal capacity with water at 95±2°C.
4. Let the product stand for another 5 minutes.
5. Empty the product and check if the filler is still intact.
RESULTS
If the filler is broken the product fails the test.
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May 2016
May, 2014
Effective Date:
May, 2014
Immersion Test for Functional Footwear Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
To determine the resistance to water penetration of functional footwear with either function ‘water resistant’ or
‘waterproof’.
This should only be used for baby sizes not possible to test using a flex method.
EQUIPMENT
• Waterproof container, big enough to carry the specimen in upright position.
• Water
• Weights, to be placed in the shoe.
• Tissue paper, to be placed in the shoe.
TEST SPECIMEN
One pair (two shoes) per test
METHOD
1. Fill the container with water. The water should be just below the lowest waterproof point (e.g. first eyelet,
lowest waterproof seam etc.).
2. Place the specimen in upright position in the container.
3. Place one layer of tissue paper on the bottom and in the front of the shoe.
4. Place the weights in the shoe and make sure that the shoe stands firmly on the bottom of the container.
5. Adjust the water level if necessary to make sure it is just below the lowest waterproof point.
6. Leave it for 2 hours and check every 30 minutes for water penetration, both by checking if the tissue paper is
wet and feeling with your hand.
RESULTS
The inside of the footwear is dry = no water penetration.
The inside of the footwear is moist or wet = water penetration.
If water penetration occurs before 2 hours have passed the test can be stopped earlier.
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May 2016
(PE) Approval Date:
September, 2014
Effective Date:
September, 2014
Heat Conduction for Trivets Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
To secure that not too much heat will be conducted from the pot through the trivet and leave marks on tables or
kitchen worktops.
EQUIPMENT
• Stove, boiling plate or hob
• A pot/saucepan with a diameter of 15-20 cm
TEST SPECIMEN
METHOD
1. Place the trivet on the soft wood surface.
2. Fill the pot/saucepan by half with water.
3. Put the pot/saucepan on the hob and heat on the highest level until the water starts to boil.
4. Let the water boil for 10 minutes.
5. Place the pot/saucepan on the trivet.
6. Let the pot/saucepan stand on the trivet for 15 minutes.
7. Check that the base of the trivet has not left any marks on the pine tree surface.
RESULTS
If the trivet has left any marks on the pine tree surface the product fail the test.
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May 2016
GPCD Performance H&M TM PE:11 1.0
(PE) Approval Date:
December, 2015
Effective Date:
December, 2015
Cold Resistance Temperature Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
To check which cold resistance temperature a plastic food contact product can manage.
EQUIPMENT
• Low temperature basin
TEST SPECIMEN
1 sample of each style.
METHOD
If an item is supposed to contain water and use in a refrigerator, test item should contain water to at least 80% of
its capacity.
1. Set the start temperature to minus 10⁰C. The test shall be conducted per 10⁰C.
2. Place the test sample into the low temperature basin (temperature must be fixed) for one hour. After
one hour, take out the tested item from the basin and observe it for two hours for any change or
damage.
RESULTS
Find the minimum temperature with no observed change of the product’s shape or damage of its function. The
found temperature plus 10 °C is the cold resistance temperature to be marked on the label.
NOTE
If experience or information from supplier is such that it gives enough information regarding cold/heat resistance
temperatures, the actual testing can be avoided.
Make sure to coordinate the label of resistance temperature with other labelling such as freezer test symbol.
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May 2016
H&M Lab Manual 196
May 2016
Packaging and Labelling
H&M Lab Manual 197

May 2016
GQS Packaging and H&M TM PA:01 1.1
Labelling (PA) Latest Reviewed:
May, 2014
Effective Date:
May, 2014
Conditioning Test for Stickers Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
To check if the sticker remains properly on fabric during transport without causing glue stains or colour change
on fabric.
EQUIPMENT
• Cardboard box, approx. 23 x 30 x 23cm.
• Fabric in heavy quality, e.g. canvas to fill up the empty space in the cardboard box after test material is
placed inside
• Material for testing according to table below, the size of the fabric should be enough to attach 5 stickers
but minimum 30cm x 20cm.
Material Colour Fabric Pcs of fabric

Cotton/cotton mix White Knitted 2
Cotton/cotton mix Dark Knitted 2
Cotton/cotton mix White Woven 2
Cotton/cotton mix Dark Woven 2
Synthetic White Knitted 2
Synthetic Dark Knitted 2
Synthetic White Woven 2
Synthetic Dark Woven 2
TEST SPECIMEN
All kind of stickers glued on textile products are to be tested (e.g. size tape).
A total of 40 stickers are needed.
METHOD
1. Attach the stickers onto the fabrics, 5 stickers on each fabric.
2. Divide the fabrics into 2 piles.
3. Put the two piles in a cardboard box. Place one pile on the bottom level of the box and the other pile on the
upper level of the box..
4. Some extra fabric in heavier quality, like canvas, can be put in between the two piles to fill up the box.
5. Send the box to one of below ITS contacts.
Hong Kong Shanghai SZ ITS

ITS-HK ITS-SH Attn: Ms Cicy Tao
Attn: Ms Cody Yeung, Attn: Ms Jennifer Ren cicy.tao@intertek.com
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May 2016
cody.yeung@intertek.com jennifer.ren@intertek.com Tel: 86-755-26020071
Tel: 852-21738785 Tel: 86-21-61206060x2226
Test procedure at ITS (H&M test method):

The samples shall be conditioned at a temperature of -25°C for 8 hours and then at a temperature of 75°C, 95 %
relative humidity for 16 hours.
One sticker on each fabric/product shall be removed after 3rd, 7th and 10th day.
RESULTS
The test result is to be assessed visually. The place where the sticker was placed is to be compared against a part
of the test material which has not been covered by the sticker. Assess change in appearance as well as the
properties of the sticker in accordance with the requirements stated in H&M Quality Standards & Requirements.
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May 2016
Packing resp. Packaging and H&M TM PA:02 1.0
May, 2014
Effective Date:
May, 2014
Drop Test - Fragile Products - Online Channel Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
To ensure that fragile products do not break during the 3 meter drop at DC and when customer parcels are
sorted at the service provider.
EQUIPMENT
• Concrete floor (same as H&M Distribution Centre)
• 3 meter, permanently marked on the wall
It is important to have a fixed place where the test is performed in

order to get comparable results.
TEST SPECIMEN
5 samples, packed as for delivery.
METHOD
1. Drop each sample 3 times
RESULTS
• Soldering breaks
• Functional parts stop working
• Large areas of coating and paint chips off
Two or more
FAIL
samples fails
One or more fail FAIL
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May 2016
Packing resp. Packaging and H&M TM PA:03 2.0
August, 2014
Effective Date:
August, 2014
Drop Test – Fragile Products – Retail Channel Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
To ensure that fragile products do not break during transport.
Drop test procedures

Weight Drop Height
Up to 10 kg. 75 cm
10 – 20 kg. 60 cm
1. First drop is on 2/3/5 corner

2. Drop on edge 3/5
3. Drop on face 3
Number the six faces clockwise with the top as No.1. Edges and corners are identified by the faces that meet
there.
EQUIPMENT
• Concrete floor
• 60cm and 75cm, permanently marked on the wall
• Two optimized packed transport cartons marked with numbers from 1 - 6 on each side as shown on
pictures above.
It is important to have a fixed place where the test is performed in order to have comparable results.
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May 2016
TEST SPECIMEN
2 master cartons
Packed as for delivery. All inner cartons have to be tight packed in transport carton with a maximum - minimum
gap/space of 1 cm in total.
METHOD
1. Drop each sample as shown in drop test procedure above.
2. Once all drops have been made, open the carton and examine the product and packaging inside, starting with
product that was most near the dropped corner first. Separate any defects and look for suspicious results in
regard to how all of your packaging reacted to the drops
3. Mark down corner and sides who have been dropped and result of the test.
4. After the tests, the eventual damage on transport carton must not affect its ability to service as protection
during transport.
5. The content must be fully intact. Injuries that expose transport personnel or injury risks of any kind may not
be occur.
7. Send video and pictures of drop test together with inspection report to PO for approval
RESULTS
• Material break or shatter
• Soldering break
• Functional parts stop working
• Large areas of coatings and paint chips off
One or more
FAIL
samples fails
When drop test is approved without breakage next coming product that is equal to construction and design do
not have to be dropped as long as it is packed in same way as already approved.
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May 2016
Inspection report Drop test
Suppliers name: …………………………………………………………………………………..
Date: ……………………………………………………………………….
Order nr: ……………………………………………………………….
Product name: …………………………………………………………………………………………
Total amount of products in master box: ………………………………..
Weight of master box: ……………………………………
PCS broken: …………………………………………
Mark out where products were broken:
Edge: ……………………………
Corner: ………………………….
Flat drop: …………………………….
5 6
2
Pass:
Fail:
H&M Lab Manual 203

May 2016
GQS Packaging and H&M TM PA:04 1.0
Labelling (PA) Approval Date:
November, 2014
Effective Date:
November, 2014
Volume Measuring Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
Measure the volume of food contact products.
EQUIPMENT
• Measuring cylinder or similar utensil to measure volume of water.
TEST SPECIMEN
One sample of each style.
METHOD
1. Fill the product with water at ambient temperature until it is completely full.
2. Pour the water into the measuring cylinder.
3. Measure the volume of the water in millilitres.
For volume in ml
Round down the result from point 3 to the nearest fifty or hundred millilitres for volumes below one litre and to
the nearest hundred millilitres for volumes above one litre. E.g. 476 ml will be rounded to 450 ml, 323 ml will be
rounded to 300 ml and 1240 ml will be rounded to 1.2 l.
For volume in oz.

Divide the measured result from point 3 in millilitres by 28.4 and round down the result to the closest whole
number to get the volume in fluid ounce. E.g. 476 ml will be rounded to 16 oz., 323 ml will be rounded to 11 oz. and
1240 ml will be rounded to 43 oz.
NOTE
For products with a volume below one litre, label the product with the volume in ml and oz.
For products with a volume above one litre, label the product with the volume in l and oz.
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May 2016
Safety
H&M Lab Manual 205

May 2016
GQS Safety (SA) Test procedure for 1.1
EN 71-1 Latest Reviewed:
November, 2014
Effective Date:
November, 2014
Pull Force Test Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
To test the security of small parts using the pull force test machine.
To test breakaway features using the pull force test machine.
EQUIPMENT
• Pull force test machine of a well-known brand. It is preferable to use a table machine with the turning
wheel on the side instead of at the top. Internally we use the brand SafGuard.
Force gauge
Note! Do not use this Lever arm for

testing
Upper grip
Lever arm
Fly wheel (turning wheel)
Lower clamp
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May 2016
• Machine accessories:
1 2
3
12
11
10
4
5
9
6
7
8
1. Universal upper grip 4-pronged – sewn on button, female press button, male press button, rivet,
eyelet
2. Universal upper grip 2-pronged – female press button, male press button, rivet, eyelet
3. Upper long nose vise grip - bows, appliqués, buckles, D-rings, hook & eye
4. Upper grasp button grip – sewn on button, stud button (jean button)
5. Upper stud grip – male press button, nipple rivet
6. Upper 3-pronged grip with long claws – sewn on button, stud button (jean button)
7. Hook adaptor
8. Carabiner
9. Plier
10. Small part testing cylinder
11. Goggles to protect your eyes when testing
12. Calibration weight 15 lbs (6,82 kg)
13. Multifunction vise clamp
14. Lower fabric clamp
13
14
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May 2016
Exchange Upper Grips
There are two methods for exchanging the grips. Either use the screw nut holder attached to each upper grip, or
use the carabiner for quicker change.
Screw nut holder Carabiner
Exchange Lower Clamps

To exchange the lower clamps follow these steps:
1. Loosen the nob 2. Remove the metal pin 3. Remove the clamp 4. Put the new clamp 5. Tighten the nob
in the hole and insert
Force Gauge Scale the metal pin
1. After attaching the correct upper grip, set the scale so that the needle is pointing to zero (0), this is done
by turning the ring around the scale.
2. Press the ON button (the OFF button will be showing). This way the needle will stop in case the sample is
breaking, and the result can be read on the scale.
Set the scale to ”0” Press the ON button
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May 2016
Choosing Clamps, Platens and Grips
• Clamps
Use lower fabric clamp for most attached components. If the component is very close to an edge – so that the
base material (fabric) is not completely fastened by the clamp, use a plier to hold down the base material.
Multifunction vise clamp is used when is not possible to use the regular lower fabric clamp, it could be that the
base material stretches too much, or the component is too big for the hole in the platen. For instance use the vise
clamp when testing bows on fabric.
Lower fabric clamp Multifunction vise clamp
Base material is pulling out of the clamp, use

vise clamp instead.
• Platen
There are two different sizes of platen; one for smaller objects (under 14 mm diameter), and one for bigger
objects (under 18 mm diameter). For thick fabrics choose the bigger platen together with the longer stop. For thin
fabrics choose the smaller platen with the shorter stop (both having red dots).
Exchange platen by pulling

out the metal pin. Remove the
platen and replace to the
other one, then set the pin
back in place.
To change the stop – just pull

it out and replace.
Platen with stop
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May 2016
• Upper grips
There are a number of different upper grips. Choose the one most suitable for the component to be tested. Below
is a table for quick reference of recommended grips.
Universal Universal Upper long Upper Upper Upper 3- Lower fabric Multi function vise
upper grip 4- upper grip nose vise grasp stud grip pronged clamp clamp
pronged 2-pronged grip button grip grip with
long
claws
x x x x x
x x
x x
x x x
x x x
x x x
If rigid base
material
x x x
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May 2016
METHOD
• Make sure to always pull perpendicularly – straight up, not at an angle.
• If needed – use a plier to hold down the base material to keep the pulling force straight up.
• Use goggles when performing the test to protect your eyes.
1. Attach appropriate upper grip to the force gauge.

2. Set the pointer of the force gauge to ZERO position by turning the ring until the needle is pointing at “0”.
3. Switch the force gauge button to “ON” position.
4. Raise the force gauge by using the lever/flywheel so that you have space to prepare the sample.
5. Attach the proper lower clamp.
6. Place the sample on the convex stop on the lower clamp. Make sure the component to be tested is
centered. Press down the lever to secure the sample.
7. Move the force gauge down to be able to be able to grasp the component with the upper grip.
8. Locate the prongs of the upper grip to the bottom interspace of the component to be tested. The
component should be attached evenly on all teeth of the grip. Make sure not to wiggle or rotate the grip, it
should be grasping straight from above, especially important for snap buttons and eyelets. Make sure the
base material is not caught in the grip.
9. When the component is secure – move the upper grip upwards by rotating the flywheel clockwise.
10. Move slowly and at an even speed up to the specified force, and hold for 10 seconds, then release by
using the flywheel.
11. Record the result in the test report.
Note: The requirement for pull force is stated in N (newton), and the force gauge has a scale in KGf. 1 newton is
equal to 0,1019 KGf. This means that 90N=9,177 KGf and 70N=7,138 KGf.
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May 2016
RESULTS
Following abbreviations are to be used in the test report.
B = Sewn on button J = Jean button F = Female press M = Male press button

button
EY = Eyelet R = Rivet
D = Drawstring Fr = Female ring popper Mr = Male ring popper
O = Other
Examples: appliqués, D-rings, fancy zipper pullers, bows, labels, buckles, pom-pom, safety release bucket.
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May 2016
MAINTENANCE/CALIBRATION
In order to have consistent and accurate results, it is important to keep the pull force machine calibrated. It is
recommended to do this every month. An annual calibration made by the manufacturer is required to ensure the
accuracy of the tension meter. For further information of calibration of the specific brand of machine, please refer
to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Calibrating the force scale

1. Remove upper grip.
2. Attach the hook adaptor to the force gauge
3. Set the pointer of the force gauge to ZERO position by turning the ring until the needle is pointing at “0”.
4. Hang the calibration weight at the hook and read the scale.
5. The reading should fall within the acceptance tolerance, + 5% of the force applied. Since the weight is
6,82 kg, the tolerance should be 6.82 kg + 5% = + 0.34 kg. If the weight test failed the scale might have to
be replaced, please contact the equipment manufacturer.
Maintenance of grips
It is important to check the condition of the grips regularly. They should not be broken or bent.
Check the grips, they should not be bent or broken.
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May 2016
No small
SAFQ Snapscrews should be missing and the rubber rings should be in good condition.
tester
New ones can be ordered from the manufacturer.
Alignment test to be performed once a day before use
• Mis-alignment between the upper and lower clamping devices will induce error in the reading. Make sure
that the clamps are aligned by following these steps:
•
1. Rotate the top fly wheel to lower the upper snap clamp nearly in touch with the lower snap clamp.
2. Visually verify the centre alignment between the upper and lower snap clamps.
3. If mis-alignment is observed, loosen all the four locking nuts on the screws, move until the alignment is
obtained, then secure the nuts again.
Clamping test to be performed once a day before use

The lower fabric clamp is equipped with a concave washer to compensate the un-even thickness of fabric. For
prolonged use, the washer may be deformed, thus the sample cannot longer being clamped firmly.
1. Clamp a piece of paper onto the lower fabric clamp.

2. Visually verify the lower edge of the grip plate in a horizontal level.
3. Ensure no slippage is occurred by means of pulling the paper in various directions.
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
If either procedure 2 or 3 fails, change the concave washer as follows:
a. Remove the retaining ring

b. Pull out the spindle
c. Pull out the anvil
d. Change to a new set of concave washer. The number of washers required is determined by
procedure 2 (above).
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May 2016
c
GPCD Safety (SA) H&M TM SA:02 1.0
Latest Reviewed:
November, 2014
Effective Date:
November, 2014
Restriction of Transparent Beads and Marbles Effective Until:
Further notice
PURPOSE
Spherical shapes can focus light and potentially burn holes in clothes. This test determines if the bead has a tint
dark enough to avoid this problem.
EQUIPMENT
• White paper
• Reference bead “Dark tint”
TEST SPECIMEN
Specimen representative of the order.
METHOD
1. Place the reference bead and the sample on a white paper in the light box.
2. Compare the two beads to see if the sample is in darker, lighter or the same shade as the reference bead.
3. RESULTS
Darker than the reference
= OK
Lighter than the reference

= NOT OK
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May 2016
The same shade as the
reference
= NOT OK
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May 2016
Appendix 1 – Test Routines: Apparel
Every test shall be made based on risk assessment. The tests mentioned below are seen as especially risky and
shall therefore always be selected in the Order Risk Assessment sheet.
APPEARANCE AFTER 5 TIMES WASH

• All products with prints, sequins, rhinestones, laces, and similar details/decorations
• Underwear (except basic bras not included in the above group)
• Woven nightwear
• Socks (except PA/EL mixes in denier knit)
• Jersey products:
- All jersey in 100% viscose
- Basic jersey: All top products*, market moves and supplier moves/split orders within the same region.
*This is a selection done by H&M production offices. Top products = products having the biggest impact
in the respective market. The definition of ‘top products’ is dependent on each production offices
product range and is therefore set by each production office independently.
• All COS heavy knit styles
SOCKS & TIGHTS

• Very loose knitted structures and qualities made from very thin yarn (e.g. 40/1) always need to be tested
for abrasion including CO/PA/EL and CO/PES/EL blends.
• Viscose blends shall always be tested both for abrasion and pilling.
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May 2016
Appendix 2 – Test Routines: Footwear
ROUTINE FOR TESTING OBA – “OBA TEST (TO AVOID YELLOWING OF SOLE)”
• Counter sample: all relevant parts shall be tested by QA in office before approval.
• Production samples: all relevant parts shall be tested in factory by H&M group QC or supplier’s
nominated/approved QC test 5 samples randomly during inspection.
• If the result is Not OK the responsible Merchandiser, QAC and Technician must be informed.
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May 2016
Appendix 3 – Calibration Routines
In order to have consistent and accurate results, it is important to keep the lab equipment calibrated. For further
information of calibration of the specific brand of machine, please refer to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Equipment Frequency
Crockmeter Once a year
General: Once a month
Datacolor
Black/white/green: every 8th hour
Grey scale Once a year or if soiled it shall be changed
GSM cutter Once a year
ICI Pillingbox Once a year
Martindale Once a year
Measuring tape Once every six months
pH-meter Every time when used
Once a month
Pull force test machine
(see detailed info in Pull Force Test method)
Scale Once a year
Spectrophotometer for formaldehyde Every second year
Titan + load cell Once a year
Tumble dryer Once a year
Washing machine Once a year
Please note that additional calibration is needed when the equipment is moved.
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May 2016
Appendix 4 – Changes Since Last Update
This appendix includes the changes made to H&M Lab Manual since the last update.
Durability & Strength – Textile
• Seam slippage (grab test): Added sketch for measuring seam opening on double seams.
Durability & Strength – Non-textile
• Ring and buckle tensile strength (H&M TM DS:18): New test method
Performance – Non-textile
• Cold Resistance Temperature: New test method
Safety
• Flammability in-house test: Test method deleted
• Pull force test: Breakaway features added
Chemical
• pH test: the conductivity of distilled water has been changed to align with pH standard ISO 3071 and
specify the size of test sample.
• Nickel test: Correct the standard name
Candles and candle holders
• Burn test cycle for highly decorated candles has been added to Table 2.
• Ignition of decoration (H&M CA:09) : New test method
Changes on 2016:
• Adhesive strength test on Print & decoration (H&M TM DS:19): new test method.
• Seal leakage of filled container with liquid (H&M TM PE:12): new test method.
• Bristles tufts/tines resistance, cushion, tips, end plugs, caps, conjunction parts resistance of Hair
brush (H&M TM DS:20): new test method.
• Cf to perspiration/saliva/water: more clarification on each step.
• Tear Strength test: Clarification added in case of all side tear.
H&M Lab Manual 220

May 2016

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H&M Lab Manual

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General Definitions ........................................................................................................................................................................................................... 8

Colour Fastness to Phenolic Yellowing ................................................................................................................................................................ 17

Colour Fastness to Saliva ............................................................................................................................................................................................23

Household Laundering and Drying.........................................................................................................................................................................32

Appearance after Wash or Dry Clean ................................................................................................................................................................. 36

Twisting (Spirality) ...........................................................................................................................................................................................................52

Laminated Foam Cup Development Stage Wash Test ............................................................................................................................. 56

Risk Classification of Candles .................................................................................................................................................................................. 65

Flame Height .......................................................................................................................................................................................................................70

H&M Lab Manual 2

Total Burning Time and Unmelt Wax ...................................................................................................................................................................84

Stability for Container Candles, Candle Containers and Candle Holders....................................................................................... 87

Resistance to Microwave Heating ......................................................................................................................................................................... 91

Durability to Hand Dishwashing ............................................................................................................................................................................. 96

Surface Temperature of Food Contact Products ....................................................................................................................................... 99

pH Test ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................ 103

PVC – Beilstein Test ..................................................................................................................................................................................................... 110

Tear Strength ................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 116

Pilling Resistance – ICI Pilling Box .........................................................................................................................................................................123

Pile Loss – Abrasion Resistance of Cord and Pile Fabrics......................................................................................................................128

Elongation, Modulus and Recovery of Elastics ............................................................................................................................................ 135

Peeling test ........................................................................................................................................................................................................................ 142

Drop Test – Accessory................................................................................................................................................................................................ 144

H&M Lab Manual 3

Cross-cut Test for Paints and Varnishes......................................................................................................................................................... 155

Air Leakage ....................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 158

Hook and Eye Tensile Strength Test ................................................................................................................................................................. 168

Ring & Buckle Tensile Strength ............................................................................................................................................................................. 175

Evaporation Test ............................................................................................................................................................................................................ 179

Wicking – Vertical .......................................................................................................................................................................................................... 181

Lid Performance .............................................................................................................................................................................................................184

Seal Leakage .................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 186

Pouring Characteristics ............................................................................................................................................................................................. 188

Thermal Shock .................................................................................................................................................................................................................192

Heat Conduction for Trivets ....................................................................................................................................................................................194

Conditioning Test for Stickers .............................................................................................................................................................................. 198

H&M Lab Manual 4

Pull Force Test ............................................................................................................................................................................................................... 206

Restriction of Transparent Beads and Marbles ...........................................................................................................................................215

FABRIC AND GARMENT/TEXTILE PRODUCTS TESTS

Owner Area Document No. Version Page: 1 of 5

H&M Lab Manual 5

H&M Lab Manual 6

H&M Lab Manual 7

Assessment of Colour Fastness

CROSS STAINING & CHANGE IN COLOUR

State the following information on the test report:

H&M Lab Manual 8

Minimum 2 samples have to be tested.

3. Let the product be exposed for 48 hours.

H&M Lab Manual 9

Jewellery Terry band

H&M Lab Manual 10

H&M Lab Manual 11

H&M Lab Manual 12

H&M Lab Manual 13

Alkaline solution, freshly prepared, containing, per litre:

• 0.5g of L-histidine monohydrochloride monohydrate (C6H9O2N3∙HCl∙H2O);

Acid solution, freshly prepared, containing, per litre:

• 0.5g of L-histidine monohydrochloride monohydrate (C6H9O2N3∙HCl∙H2O)

H&M Lab Manual 14

H&M Lab Manual

H&M Lab Manual