Weft pile fabrics

lecture (2)
Weft pile fabrics
 1. These fabrics incorporate two types of weft and one type of warp
threads.
 2. color selector is necessary, if the pile weft differs in count or
colour from the ground weft.
 3. Weft pile fabrics contain a much greater proportion of weft
threads as compared to warp threads.
 4. High density of weft picks which in the finest fabrics may reach
200 picks per cm.
 5. The high weft thread density is possible by having a low warp
sett with higher tension of warp.
Weft pile fabrics
 6. Due to the high warp tension, positive shedding mechanisms are used.

 7. Highest qualities of cloth require specially constructed heavy weaving

machinery.

 8. They have long floats of weft which cut after weaving during finishing
process.

 9. cotton, rayon, worsted or mohair may be used.

Classification of velveteen

 All over or plain velveteen : in which the surface is uniformly covered by

the pile.
 Weft plush : the surface is uniformly covered by the pile but arranged to
produce much longer tufts , used for upholstery purposes.

 Corded velveteen : the piles run in orderly vertical cords of varying

width.

 Figured velveteen : pile figure is produced.

Float cutting principle
 Once pile was cut by hand with a thin steel blade.

 In machine cutting thin, flexible metal bands are inserted

between the floats and the base fabric ,then circular metal knives
cut down the centers of the floats over the metal band. The
blades cut the floats without damage to the base fabric.

 Another machine is equipped with a great number of needles

with knives. For every rib to be cut, a separate needle with knife
is used.
Cutting the pile wefts
Plain velveteen

 These are also known as all over velveteens.

 They are characterized by an uniform surface consisting of protruding fibres that are
of equal length.
 Generally the ground weave is plain. However, weaves such as 2/1 and 2/2 twill are
also employed for producing heavier fabrics.
 The ratio of the ground to pile threads is selected according to the nature of the
weave.
Simulation for velveteen.
How to draw plain velveteen?

Step 1. determine the structures of

the ground and the pile.

Ex. If the structure of the ground is plain

1/1

The structure of the pile is twill 1/3

Step2:
determine the ratio between the
ground and the pile

Ex;if the ratio between the

ground and the pile (1:4)
So the number of weft (10 weft)
The number of warp is (8 ends)
Step3
put the signs of the ground then put the
signs of the pile on one series of warps
Step4
put the arrows of the knives on the middle of square of every float
 Example of plain velveteen structure by using plain
weave for ground
1- Pile weave : twill 1/2 2- Ground weave : plain 1/1
2- The ratio of the ground to pile wefts :1:3
Plain velveteen (weave structure compatible with weft arrangement )
velveteen structure by using twill weave for ground

 As twill weaves have lesser number of intersections compared to the plain

weave, a twill back velveteen having twill as the ground structure will have
lesser firmness of structure compared to the plain back velveteen.

 As a result the twill back velveteens require higher pick densities than the
plain back velveteens to give the same firmness.

 However the twill back velveteens have a softer feel and are more flexible.
The standard design for a popular type of velveteen
Plain velveteen (weave structure not compatible with weft arrangement )
Example of plain velveteen structure by using twill weave
for ground
1- Pile weave : twill 2/1 2- Ground weave : twill 1/2
2- The ratio of the ground to pile wefts :1:2
plain velveteen structure by using twill weave for ground
 Plain velveteen with fast pile structure . (W shape)
 In these types of structures of the pile is firmly bound to the ground
structure so that the fringes of the pile do not easily come out of the
foundation.
 The firmness of the pile is generally influenced by the pick density. The
longer the pile length the greater the pick density required.
 The advantage of the fast pile structures is that firmness of pile is achieved
with lesser pick densities .
 Firmness of the pile improves the cloth quality with respect to
serviceability.
 V-type is easy to taken out from the fabrics than w-type
 W- type gives pile tufts Higher cohesion inside the cloth than V- type
Example of fast pile structure (W shape)
Draw the fast pile knowing that,
1- Pile weave : sateen 4 2- Ground weave : plain 1/1
2- The ratio of the ground to pile wefts :1:4
Plain velveteen with fast pile structure . (W shape)
Pile length
 Pile length depend on length of pile float.
 The length of pile float depends on two factors :
(i) The warp thread density, and
(ii) Number of warp ends over which the pile weft floats.
 Thus the pile length increases with reduced warp thread density per cm or with
increase in the number of warp threads over which the pile weft passes.

𝑓𝑙𝑜𝑎𝑡 𝑙𝑒𝑛𝑔𝑡ℎ
Pile length =
𝑒𝑛𝑑𝑠 /𝑐𝑚 𝑥 2
 Pile weight
Pile weight depends on the following factors:

(i) Count of the weft yarn

(ii) The pile height
(iii) The pile density per cm.
Pile density per cm2
 Factors affecting pile density :
1 – no. of warp ends / cm .
2 - no. of pile wefts / cm
3- no. of ends of velveteen structure

warp ends / cm 𝑥 pile wefts / cm

Pile density =
no. of ends of velveteen structure