Weft pile fabrics lecture (3)

( weft plush – corduroy – figured )

Weft plush
 The design for these fabrics are constructed on exactly the
same principle as plain velveteens.

 Weft plushes are characterized by longer pile floats and

heavier weight.

 They are mainly employed as upholstery fabrics.

 Due to the long length of the pile weft, the pile yarn is

anchored to the ground cloth by w – shape tuft , which gives

it firmness.

 The type of material used for the pile yarn are woolen, mohair
or acrylic yarns. Sometimes other materials are also used.
Example : draw weft plush , knowing that

Ground weave:
plain 1/1

Pile weave :
sateen 4 extended 2 times horizontally

–
Weft arrangement :
1 ground weft : 2 pile weft
 Corded velveteen's
 In these structures the pile picks are bound in , at intervals in a straight line .

 The cutting knife is run right up at the center of the space between the pile
binding points ,as a result the tufts of fibers project from the foundation in the
form of cords or ribs running lengthwise of the fabric.

 The finer class of the cords are constructed employing a plain ground with
finer yarns. In heavier varieties of corduroys, a twill ground is used with
coarser yarns. Thus fewer pile picks to each ground pick are necessary.

 Designs may be constructed to produce different widths of cords simply by

varying the space between the binding ends.
Corded velveteens
 In the simplest cord designs , the pile picks are bound in plain order on two consecutive
ends.

 the plain binding weave of the pile picks is reversed in alternative cords.In this case the
design extends over the width of two cords, and each pile pick forms alternatively a long
and a short float.

 In all the cases one side of each tuft is longer than the other side. The difference in the
lengths of the tufts results in a circular formation of the cords. The longer side of the tufts
forms the center, and the shorter side the outer parts of the cords.
Corded velveteens v-type
Corded velveteens v and w type
Classification of corduroys
Figured velveteen
 In these structures the pile forms an ornamental design.
 Any velveteen weave is suitable for the figure, but the ground structure is varied
according to the method in which the pile weft is prevented from showing on the surface.
The figuring threads can be avoided at places where they are not required. There are
two methods for doing this:
(i) The figuring threads are tucked in on the underside in the same manner as on the
face.
(ii) The figuring threads are floated loosely on the back of the foundation texture, and
brushed away after the cutting operation.
 Figured velveteens are not produced owing to the very high costs of weaving and
finishing. Similar effects can be produced much more economically on the principle of
warp pile.
Figured velveteen