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BANDING PLIERS
HALF ROUND AND SQUARE WIRE
PENDANT

Design by:
Wyatt White
 2 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
PATENTED SINGLE
BANDING PLIERS 20/21or 22/24.
The numbers designate the size of
the band created (when Half Round
Wire is bent in the Pliers. Each end
of the Plunger coordinates with the
Square Wire size designated), will fit
a single stack of Square Wire. The
illustration at left is what happens
to the Half Round wire in the tool,
then added to a single stack of
Square Wires. Single is for a single
stack of Square Wires. Make certain
your Pliers are the proper size for
the Square Wire you plan to use in
your piece of Jewelry.
20, 21 or 22GA 20, 21, 22 OR 24GA
HALF ROUND SQUARE
GERMAN STYLE WIRE GERMAN STYLE WIRE
BAIL MAKING PLIERS
WIRE STRAIGHTENER
PATENTED DOUBLE
BANDING PLIERS 2X20/2X21, 2X22/2X24
The numbers designate the size of
the band created (when Half Round
Wire is bent in the Pliers. Each end
of the Plunger coordinates with
DOUBLE the Square Wire size des-
ignated), will fit a double stack of
Square Wires. The illustration at left
is what happens to the Half Round
wire in the tool, then added to the
double stack of Square Wires. Make
certain your Pliers are the proper
size for the Square Wire you plan to
use in your piece of Jewelry.
BENT CHAIN NOSE PLIERS
OVAL
CABACHON
DESIGNER FLUSH CUTTER
 INSTRUCTIONS 3
1. Straighten 3 - 7 inch pieces of
22Ga Square Wire using the Wire
Straightener, (length depends on
the size of stone being wrapped).
The stone in this instructional is
14 x 18mm the length of the Square
*Choose size of Square and Half Round Wire
depending on your preference for the wire size.
The bigger the wire the more wire will show,
the smaller the wire the less it will show. Make
sure to have the proper size Wire Banding Pliers
for the wire chosen.*

2. Straighten 3 pieces of Half Round

Wire approximately 5 inches.
(This length can be adjusted de-
pending on how many wraps over
the square wire, having more wire
is better than running out of wire).
This instructional uses 21Ga Half
Round Wire. Place the Half Round
Wire across the tool with the flat
side against the plunger portion
of the tool and on the side that
corresponds to the Gauge of Square
Wire being used.

3. Compress the tool so that the

Half Round Wire is forced down by
the plunger into the double right
angle base of the tool until the wire
is pushed all the way down.
4 INSTRUCTIONS

4. Gently push each side against the

plunger to complete the right angle
form. Repeat Steps 2-4 to make 3 of
these Banding Components.

5. Place the Half Round form onto

the center of the straightened
Square Wire, then grasp the base
of the form with Bent Chain Nose
Pliers.

6. While holding the stack of Square

Wire with the pliers bend one of the
sides of the Half Round Wire over
the top of the stack. (Photograph
shows the result of bending the
Half Round Wire over the top of the
stack).

7. Use the tips of the Bent Chain Nose

Pliers to gently squeeze the top and
bottom of the stack with the Half
Round over it to tighten the wrap.
 INSTRUCTIONS 5
8. Continue making an angle in the
wire as tightly against the stack of
Square Wires, tighten each of these
bends until you have 3 wraps. Then
grasp the half round wire with the
Bent Chain Nose Pliers as Shown.
Remember the position depth from ION
SIT
the end of the Pliers to form the PO TH
DE
P

prong.

9. Bend the Half Round Wire up

against the Bent Chain Nose Plier to
form a right angle.

10. Remove the pliers and bend

the wire down against the stack of
Square Wires as shown. Align the
edge of the wire with the previous
wraps.

11. Hold the stack with the Bent

Chain Nose Pliers as shown and
bend the Half Round over the
Square Wire.
6 INSTRUCTIONS

12. Bend the same wire over the

three Square Wires.

13. Bend the Half Round Wire over

the top of the stack then tighten
with the Pliers as shown.

14. Bend the Half Round Wire over

the side of the stack and tighten
with the tips of the Bent Chain Nose
Pliers.

15. Make another prong, opposite

the first one. This prong should
be slightly shorter than the first
one. This prong will be used for the
bottom of the stone.
 INSTRUCTIONS 7

16. Bend the Half Round Wire over

onto the side of the stack of Square
Wire.

17. Continue with bending then

tightening each half wrap to make
sure the square wires begin to firm
up and become more solid.

*I like to have the same number of wraps on

each side of the “prongs”, make certain that
both ends of the Half Round Wire are on the
same side of the side stack of Square Wires.

18. Trim the ends of the Half Round

Wire, leaving enough wire to fold
over the side stack and cover about
1/2 of the stack.

19. Bend the end pieces over onto

the stack and tighten.
8 INSTRUCTIONS

20. Carefully bend the bottom

prong into the inside of the stack of
Square Wires, make sure it’s on the
same side as folded over ends of
the Half Round Wire.

21. Carefully fashion another Prong

group to the left of the center, and
a set to the right of the center set.
Bend in each of the bottom prongs
at a 90 degree
angle. Make certain
that these prong
wraps are located
so they will fit
the stone at the
indicated areas.

22. Begin by centering the stone

and the wire frame then gently
bend the wire frame to the shape
of the stone. Many small bends are
always better than fewer big bends.

23. Flip the whole piece and

see where the top prongs are and
continue forming the wire frame to
the stone.
 INSTRUCTIONS 9

24. Once the frame fits well,

carefully grasp the top wires and
gently bend them using the Bent
Chain Nose Pliers as shown to bring
each of the stacks of Square Wire
together in a straight line at the top
of the stone.

25. Use the Double Banding

Pliers and place a 4 inch piece of
Half Round Wire onto the side
marked 2x22Ga (because we are
using 22 Ga Square Wire) make
sure the flat side of the half round
is facing the plunger of the Double
Banding Pliers.

26. Make a complete compression

of the pliers to form the double
right angle bend in the Half Round
Wire. Then push with your thumb
on both sides of the Half Round
Wire to push them against the
plunger.

27. Place the Half Round Wire

band around the 2x3 stacks of the
Square Wire. This can be tricky as
the Square Wires will not want to
do what you want them to, but the
Banding Pliers make the fit tight so
that you can control the wires.
10 INSTRUCTIONS

28. Carefully bend one of the ends

of the Half Round Wire across the
double stack as we did before only
now you have a double stack.

29. Tighten the bend from Step 28.

30. Continue bending and

tightening the band on the 6 square
wires until you have about 4 or 5
complete wraps.

31. Cut the two ends of the Half

Round Wire, making sure they are
at the back of the pendant and will
reach at least half way across the
bottom of the stack of Square Wires.
Insert the stone into the mounting
from the top.
 INSTRUCTIONS 11

32. Use the back of the Bent Chain

Nose Pliers to “burnish” or bend the
prongs over the top of the Cabochon
to secure it into the mounting.

33A. Stretch open the top two

Square Wires, and the Back two
Square Wires out from the band.

33B. Bend the back two Square

wires flat against the back of the
Cabochon.

34. Cut the ends of the two Square

Wires at the same length near the
end of the Stone.

35. Use the Bent Chain Nose Pliers

and twist the end of the Square
wire counter-clockwise.
12 INSTRUCTIONS

36. Continue to twist the end until

you have a scroll (or other design)

37. Grasp the other wire and twist

in the opposite direction (or the
same direction) to make a design.
This design also helps to hold the
stone from the back.

38. Bend the front two Square

Wires down onto the top of the
stone.

39. Cut the front Wires close to the

bottom of the Cabochon.
 INSTRUCTIONS 13

40. Twist or coil these two wires to

create two coils. I like to coil these
so I don’t scratch the surface of
the stone. The back of the stone
may have a scratch or two but the
front needs to be scratch-free. This
method is a little harder than the
twisting but keeps scratches to a
minimum.

41. Tighten the front and back of

one side by carefully squeezing one
against the other.

42. Flip the pendant and tighten

the other front and back.

43A. Place the center two Square

Wires into the Bail Making Pliers as
close to the top of the Pendant.
Make sure the larger size end of the Bail Making Pliers
are on the back side of the Pendant.
43B. Twist the pliers to make a
slight bend in the two wires over the
smaller of the two ends of the Bail
Making Pliers.
14 INSTRUCTIONS
44A. Using your hand, bend the
two Square Wires up and over the
large end of the Bail Making Pliers.

44B. Remove the Bail Making

Pliers, your Bail should look as
shown.

45A. Re-grasp the bail with the Bail

Making Pliers so that you can bend
the two ends to form the rest of the
round portion of the Bail.
45B. Grasp the two Square Wires
with the tip of the Bent Chain Nose
Pliers close to the top of the
pendant and bend them up as
shown.

46. Form another double band of

Half Round Wire and place onto the
base of the Bail.

47. Wrap the Half Round Wire

around the Bail 3 times making sure
that the two ends are at the side of
the Bail (or at the back your choice).
Cut the ends and fold them over
and tighten as before.
 INSTRUCTIONS 15

48. Carefully cut the ends of the

Square Wire from the base of the
Bail.

49. Tighten the ends of the Half

Round Wires to make sure none of
the ends are out.

50. Carefully split the two wires

of the Bail to create the “rabbit ear
bail”

Finished Pendant

There are many different ways of securing the stone to

the setting, as well as finishing the top of the pendant and
making the bail. Once you have the general idea you will
be able to change and make your own ways of doing these
portions of setting the stone. The Banding Pliers help to
secure the first wraps making the setting more solid in the
beginning. It’s good to prep by making all of the bands
before you get started so that those parts are ready to go.
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