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CME E Book 7
CME E Book 7
CME E Book 7
Tutorials for
embroidering
difficult fabrics
2
3 4
Tutorials for
embroidering
difficult fabrics
Certain fabrics are difficult to embroider without knowing proper designs and
stabilizers to use. This e-book will teach you suitable fabric/design/stabilizer
combinations for four difficult-to-embroider fabrics.
Included in this e-book are four tutorials from our regular column “Material
World,” including “Vinyl,” “Wool,” “Terry Cloth” and “Sheers.” Each article
discusses appropriate thread, needles, designs and stabilizer to use with each
fabric, common uses and tips for working with the fabric and, most importantly,
how not to embroider the fabric!
With these four tutorials, you’re sure to be a fabric master in no time. Happy
stitching!
Colleen Exline
Associate Editor, CME
Colleen Exline
Associate Editor, CME
TABLE OF CONTENTS
“Material World: Sheers”
Ruth Cox................................................ PAGE 3
Types
Sheers encompass a variety of transparent or semi- beginning of each seam to prevent the fabric from
opaque fabrics and fibers, such as pure silk chiffon, tangling in the machine throat plate. Position a
polyester organza and nylon tulle. Some sheers are piece of tissue paper along the fabric wrong side
available with beautiful iridescent or metallic finishes. for smoother stitching, if necessary.
While most sheers are suitable for embroidery, the • Use French seams, or, for curved seams, zigzag
stiffer varieties are the easiest to work with. stitch close to the stitching line and carefully trim
away the excess fabric. Choose a hand-rolled,
machine stitched or serger rolled hem. For bridal
Uses veils, stitch a serger rolled hem over a nylon fish-
Sheers are ideal for making eveningwear, elegant ing line to create a beautiful fluted effect. Use
daywear, bridal wear, dance costumes and special organza as sheer interfacing for buttonholes.
occasion garments. Soft sheers, such as silk chiffon,
are used for blouses or flowing dresses. Stiff sheers,
such as organza, are ideal for overlays and look nice Thread
with coordinating or contrasting satins and silks. Use silk thread for silk chiffon and all-purpose
Use organza when making corsages and appliqués. thread for manmade fibers. Decorative thread
Use tulle when making bridal veils or overlays for works well on the serger for rolled hems. Rayon
bodices. As a general rule, choose loose, simple thread is ideal for embroidery because it’s lustrous.
styles with minimal seams. For fitted garments, Iridescent metallic thread is lovely for eveningwear
use sheers as overlays with a sturdier fabric, such and is typically softer than traditional metallic
as satin. threads in both color and texture.
Tips Needles
• While stitching, hold the fabric slightly taut to Use the smallest needle possible to avoid damaging
help it glide smoothly through the machine and the fabric. Size 9 or 11 needles are ideal for most
eliminate puckers. Hold the thread ends at the sheers.
Stabilizer
Use temporary stabilizer to maintain the fabric
transparency and lightness. Water-soluble stabilizer
is the easiest to use because it rinses away com-
pletely. Use it as a topper on lightweight sheers to
help prevent the fabric from slipping in the hoop.
Water-soluble stabilizer is available in a variety of
weights for special applications, such as embroider-
ing lace or shaping freestanding corsages or
appliqués. Fusible varieties are also available and are
particularly useful for hooping silk or slippery fabrics.
Use fusible water-soluble stabilizer when creating
transparent layered petals or butterfly wings.
How NOT to
Embroider Sheers
Avoid dense designs when embroidering
sheers, as needle penetrations will tear the
delicate fabric because it can’t support the
weight of the finished design. When using
dense embroidery designs, the fabric loses
its lightness, softness and beauty. Use a top-
per to prevent the fabric from slipping in the
hoop. Use simple, delicate designs that
complement the fabric.
Silk Chiffon
Silk chiffon is the most difficult sheer to embroider
because it has a soft hand and is easily damaged
during embroidery. Choose simple designs with low
DESIGNS
Basket of flowers: Janome, #1002, Heirloom collection, design #2;
janome.com
Bow: Sue Box, Everlasting collection, Heart Bow; suebox.com
Pink flower: Brother, Innov-ís Project Book; (877) 276-8437, brother-usa.com
Rose: built-in design from Janome 11000SE; janome.com
Rose with lace border & small flower: Brother, #SA329, design card 29,
Lace collection; (877) 276-8437, brother-usa.com.
Terry cloth is cuddly, cozy and great to snuggle up in. When it comes to
selecting embroidery designs, bright and bold styles are the way to go.
Terry Types
Terry cloth is a warp pile fabric tra-
ditionally made from 100% cotton,
although modern variations may
contain synthetic elements. The
fabric contains loops on both sides,
giving it a soft texture and making it comfortable
to wear. Classic terry cloth is woven and stable,
but versions containing Lycra are also available
for sportswear. Expensive terry cloth varieties,
such as French terry, typically have closer weaves
and plush, dense textures. Hemp terry cloth is
also available and is an eco-friendly option.
Ideal Uses
Terry cloth has a natural absorbency, making it
suitable for bathrobes, beach jackets, sportswear,
towels, children’s wear, soft toys and diapers. It’s
also appropriate for casual garments, such as
pull-on trousers, T-shirts and loose jackets. The
fabric is easy to sew and wear, making it ideal for
simple projects.
Needles
using large shears or a rotary cutter. Most terry cloth
varieties can be cut without nap, but check the fab-
ric to see if the loops naturally fall in one direction.
Use a standard size 12 needle for general sewing
Terry cloth ravels, so serge raw edges before sewing.
and embroidery. Use a size 14 metallic needle when
Because the fabric is thick, use glass-top or flower-
using metallic thread.
head pins and sew using long machine stitches.
Stabilizer
Choose simple patterns with minimal seams and
closures, such as kimono-style robes.
Bound seams and edges that use quilt-wt. One layer of tear-away stabilizer is usually suffi-
cotton fabric are better alternatives to serged cient, as it won’t shift in the hoop or stiffen the
seams and provide a neat way to tame the fabric embroidery. Some manufacturers provide special
pile without adding bulk. To prevent seams from hoops for handling bulky fabrics. For small items
creeping, use an even feed foot. Faced hems and that are difficult to hoop, such as infant wear,
facings made from contrasting cotton fabric work use an adhesive-backed tear-away stabilizer.
well as does salvaged ribbing from waistbands, Hoop the stabilizer, score the release paper
cuffs and neckline trims. When making buttonholes, with a pin and remove the paper from the hoop
place a layer of water-soluble stabilizer over the center. Smooth the fabric onto the adhesive sur-
fabric before stitching. Use a twin needle when face and embroider the design. Tear away the
topstitching hems. stabilizer once stitching is complete.
Pressing Topper
Use a steam iron on a high heat setting. Tumble-dry Use a single layer of water-soluble stabilizer as a
to give the fabric a nice, fluffy texture. topper to create smooth and even stitches that sit
Thread
proudly on the fabric surface. Hoop the stabilizer
and fabric; embroider. Once embroidery is complete,
tear away the stabilizer. Remove any remaining
Choose polyester thread for embroidery, as it will stabilizer with a wet cotton swab or sponge.
withstand frequent laundering at high temperatures
Laundering
and won’t fade when biological detergent is used.
Polyester thread has a nice luster and is available in
a wide variety of colors, such as fluorescent shades, Terry cloth is easy to launder and wears well. Use
making it perfect for baby and children’s wear. a biological detergent for white or pale colors. Add
Rayon or metallic thread may be used for luxury fabric conditioner to the final rinse and tumble-dry
items that require occasional laundering. for maximum softness.
A
Designs with weave stitches are great for chil-
dren’s wear. Weave stitches provide good fabric
coverage, while the shading and running stitch
detail ensure that the design will be clearly visible.
For infant and children’s items, choose small de-
signs so the fabric will retain most of its softness.
DESIGNS
Appliqué: Pfaff, #385, Endless Lace; (800) 997-3233, pfaff.com or (800) 358-0001,
myembroideries.com
Bunny: Built-in design from the Janome 11000; (800) 631-0183, janome.com
Folk art: Brother, SA345, memory card #45, Fancywork; (877) 276-8437,
brother.com
Monogram: Built-in design from the Janome 11000; (800) 631-0183, janome.com
Redwork: Brother, SA365, memory card #65, Redwork; (877) 276-8437,
B
brother.com
Sunflower: Built-in design from the Janome 11000; (800) 631-0183, janome.com
Wool
by Cheryl Stranges
2
Types
• Wool is available in a variety of 6. M
ohair: Mohair can be irritating
3 types and blends, including: against the skin and is often
blended with wool to make
1. Boiled Wool: Boiled wool is
garments, such as skirts, coats
shrunk and felted in boiling
and sweaters, more comfortable.
water. It’s often used for hats,
scarves and coats. 7. Sweater/Jersey: This is a
4 2. Cashmere: Cashmere is made
stretchy knit fabric that’s often
made fom wool or cotton
from the Kashmir goat and is
fibers. It’s commonly used to
durable and has a soft hand. It’s
5 typically used to make sweaters
make sweaters.
and scarves. 8. T
weed: Tweed is a heavyweight
fabric that’s homespun and
3. Felt: Felt is a nonwoven cloth
slightly felted. It has a rough
that’s made by matting, con-
texture and is commonly used
densing and pressing woolen
6 fibers. It’s commonly used to
to make coats.
A C
B D
How NOT to
Embroider Wool
Don’t
• If the chosen wool variety has • Use designs that have cross
stretch, choose an adhesive stitches for a homespun flair (F).
cut-away stabilizer because it
won’t stretch the fabric during Care
embroidery. • Most wool varieties should be
Do • Use water-soluble stabilizer when dry-cleaned, as washing can
the design wrong side will be ex- cause the fabric to shrink and
posed, such as on an unlined jacket. lose color and softness. If wash-
Only use water-soluble stabilizer ing is necessary, wash the fabric
when working with washable in lukewarm water. Rinse to
wool varieties. Some wools are remove the detergent in cool
treated with a resin finish, allow- water. Place the garment on a
ing them to be washed without flat surface to air-dry.
shrinking. Use a water-soluble • Never tumble-dry wool because
topper to prevent stitches from heat can shrink the fabric.
sinking into the fabric nap.
• Steam-press wool on a low-heat
• Test-stitch the chosen fabric and or wool setting, if applicable.
•D
on’t launder wool because it
stabilizer combination to ensure Use a press cloth and press
can shrink the fabric (unless using a
washable variety). Dry-clean instead. satisfactory results. Remove the from the fabric wrong side.
stabilizer or topper, following the
• Use a topper to prevent stitches from Designs
sinking into lofty fabric naps. manufacturer’s instructions. Berry/Leaf Vine: Husqvarna Viking, #167, Tradi-
tional Quilted Blocks & Borders; (800) 446-2333,
• Don’t hoop delicate wool varieties, husqvarnaviking.com
such as cashmere or Merino, as the Border: Husqvarna Viking, #117, Mega Borders;
fabric can easily suffer from hoop burn. Designs (800) 446-2333, husqvarnaviking.com
Cross Stitch Flower: Husqvarna Viking, #191, Thread
• Never iron wool directly because the • Choose designs depending Velvet; (800) 446-2333, husqvarnaviking.com
Felted Flower: Husqvarna Viking, #182, Felting Art;
heat can scorch the fabric. on the fabric weight. Use less (800) 446-2333, husqvarnaviking.com
• Don’t use chlorine bleach during laun- dense designs with lightweight Lettering: Built-in designs from the Designer
Diamond sewing/embroidery machine;
dering because it will permanently dye varieties. Alternatively, use (800) 446-2333, husqvarnaviking.com
the fabric. denser designs with heavy-
Snowflakes: Husqvarna Viking, #110, Happy Holi-
days; (800) 446-2333, husqvarnaviking.com
• Don’t use dense designs on lightweight weight varieties. Source
wool varieties, as the combination will Husqvarna Viking provided the stabilizer and the
cause design distortion. • Needle-felt wool yarn in open
Designer Diamond sewing/embroidery machine:
design areas for added interest (E). (800) 446-2333, husqvarnaviking.com.
Vinyl fabrics are both pretty and practical and great to use
when making fun fashion accessories or home décor items.
How NOT to
Embroider Vinyl
Avoid heavyweight designs because the
fabric will stretch in every direction, causing
puckering. Shiny fabrics will make perfora-
tions extremely visible. Avoid hooping vinyl
because the hoop will stretch the fabric, result-
ing in creases that are difficult to remove. The
featured design is too dense for the fabric and
caused fabric perforations and design distortion.
Lightweight Vinyl
Lightweight vinyl (above) has a textured surface and
soft nonwoven backing. Use adhesive stabilizer for
easy embroidery.
Oilcloth
Oilcloth (below) is difficult to embroider because
the fabric stretches and has a mesh backing that
doesn’t adequately support designs.
Clear Vinyl
Clear vinyl (above) is difficult to embroider because
it stretches, puckers and perforates during embroi-
dery. Use heavyweight water-soluble stabilizer and
a small design with a low stitch count.
DESIGNS
Bee: Pfaff, #387, Magnificent Florals; (800) 446-2333, pfaffusa.com
Dog & Monogram: Built-in designs from the Janome Memory Craft 11000;
janome.com
Doll: Included with Janome Digitizer Pro software; janome.com
Horse: Brother, #25, Horse; (877) 276-8437, brother-usa.com or
sewingmachine-sales.co.uk
Oriental: Janome, #1015, Oriental Collection; janome.com
Sunflower: Brother, #49, Folk Art (text added using the Janome Memory Craft
11000); (877) 276-8437, brother-usa.com or (800) 898-0893, icanhelpsew.com
SOURCE
Fabric.com provided the vinyl fabrics: (888) 455-2940, fabric.com.
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