Peffley 1

Rachel Peffley

Ms. Hunter

ENG 1201 Section 509

6 December 2020

Fashion for the Planet: An Analysis of Fast Fashion Alternatives

As more consumers have become aware of climate change and other environmental

problems, many industries have started to take notice. In the fashion industry, this has meant

some shifting away from fast fashion, a method of production characterized by new styles

becoming available every few weeks. Much of the concern about fast fashion stems from several

critiques of the process. This includes pointing out the textile waste consumers are encouraged to

produce by frequently updating their wardrobe, the environmental impact of constantly

mass-producing cheap clothes, and labor abuses that come from the amount of work required to

keep this production up. Many possible solutions exist and can help fix the environmental

damage being caused. Three of the most common proposals include making clothing rentals a

viable option, recycling old garments into new materials, and buying secondhand clothes. As

beneficial as these alternatives sound, it is important to consider the actual environmental effects

they will have when compared to fast fashion. Additionally, the issue of how to implement these

alternatives in a way that will allow them to replace fast fashion, and therefore have the greatest

impact, must also be addressed. Despite these possible drawbacks, these alternatives to fast

fashion should still be used, with careful consideration of the issues that must be addressed, to

reduce the effect the fashion industry has on the environment.

To fully understand the benefits resulting from alternatives to fast fashion, one must

acknowledge the effects the fashion industry is having on the environment. So, how bad is fast
 Peffley 2

fashion? Fast fashion, with its quick production cycles, encourages consumers to always be on

the lookout for new trends. In fact, people are buying 60 percent more clothing on average

compared to 15 years ago (“UN Alliance For Sustainable Fashion”). Increased consumption

leads to high amounts of waste as consumers need more space for new styles. In the US, about

81 pounds of clothing and textiles per person are thrown away each year (“Frequently Asked

Questions”—​SMART​). The production, use, and disposal of such a large amount of clothing have

an equally large impact on the environment. Worldwide, the fashion industry is responsible for

eight to ten percent of carbon emissions (“UN Alliance For Sustainable Fashion”). There is hope,

though. Increased attention has led to many suggestions about how to address the problem.

The use of clothing rental services can decrease the environmental impact the fashion

industry has. Renting clothes involves the consumer signing up for a membership to the provider,

located online or in person, that allows them to use a set amount of garments for a certain

amount of time. One of the driving factors behind these services is the idea that renting clothes

will extend the lifetime of garments and result in a smaller demand for new clothes. For example,

the study “Life Cycle Assessment of Clothing Libraries,” found that rental services that were

available online and extended the life of a garment by four times, compared to two times, had the

most significant decrease in environmental impact (Zamani et al. 1373). This data shows that

decreasing environmental impact is possible with clothing rentals because all of the data was

compared to a baseline situation involving no clothing rentals. While these are promising results,

for rental services to be most effective, they should be thoughtfully implemented.

Although many positive outcomes could result from clothing rentals, some drawbacks are

possible. A common problem found with rentals is that they result in increased transportation by

the consumer. According to the same study, how often a garment is rented out is important
 Peffley 3

because transportation has the greatest environmental impact for all clothing rental situations,

compared to other phases like production and use/laundry (Zamani et al. 1374). This is a

problem, but one that can be dealt with, so clothing rentals can still be helpful. For example,

since the transportation phase on the part of the consumer has the greatest environmental impact,

the providers should take this into account. Doing so will require more forethought and

consideration of small details, such as planning how to make pick-up/drop-off points as close to

the consumer as possible. As a result, clothing rentals will have the greatest decrease in

environmental impact if the people organizing them are well-informed about the pros and cons,

and are in the business primarily because they care about the environment. Rental services that

are being provided by companies that only see rentals as a new trend to cash in on should be

avoided as these companies are less likely to take all necessary information into account.

Therefore, the solution is to raise more awareness, among consumers and producers, so that

everyone knows how to engage with these services, instead of simply condemning rentals as

harmful or using them unsustainably.

In addition to careful planning, the drawbacks of clothing rentals can be minimized by

using other sustainable options as well. One option is recycling old garments, which should

effectively be done in coordination with rental services to keep textile waste out of landfills and

reduce the amount of new material needed to produce clothes. The study “Will Clothing Be

Sustainable?” found that recycling polyester decreased the climate impact from 100 percent (the

baseline situation) to 94 percent and the mechanical recycling of cotton decreased from 100

percent to 97 percent (Roos et al. 35). Similar results were found in the study “Environmental

Benefits From Reusing Clothes,” which explains that the recycling of cotton t-shirts has a less

than eight percent decrease in all categories measured, including global warming and ozone
 Peffley 4

depletion (Farrant et al. 734). These impacts may not seem like much, but that is why sustainable

practices should be used together. One can imagine a future where rental services work closely

with textile recycling companies to manage garments at the end of their life. This further

highlights the need for environmentally conscious rental providers and attention to detail when

implementing either practice because it would otherwise be easier for clothes to be thrown out

when they are done being rented.

Instead of only using rental services and recycling companies, consumers can take

matters into their own hands through secondhand clothing. Due to the environmental benefits

associated with reusing clothes, the consumption of secondhand clothing should be readily

adopted as one of the best ways to decrease the fashion industry’s impact on the environment.

Like with the recycling of clothes, several studies demonstrated this. For example, the study

“Life Cycle Assessment for Reuse/Recycling of Donated Textiles” found that reusing polyester

clothing requires 1.8 percent of the energy to produce the same amount of new clothing and 2.6

percent for cotton clothing in the same situation (Woolridge et al. 102). This is a significant

change in the environmental impact, but it does require consumption of new clothes at least

partially replaced with secondhand clothing. Further evidence comes from the study

“Environmental Benefits From Reusing Clothes,” which showed that gains from reusing clothes

outweigh any negative environmental impacts by 25 times for t-shirts and 20 times for pants

(Farrant et al. 733). These studies analyzed data from different countries, with the former based

in the UK and the latter in Estonia and Sweden. Similar results from different countries reinforce

the findings because these countries are likely to have different practices when it comes to

laundry and transportation, which were factors the study took into account. With this data in

mind, it is clear that reusing clothes has significant environmental benefits, with fewer
 Peffley 5

drawbacks than rentals and recycling. Therefore, replacing the consumption of new clothes with

secondhand clothing should be used as one of the most effective ways to reduce environmental

impacts caused by the fashion industry.

Despite the benefits from increasing the use of alternatives to fast fashion, the question

remains: Are there any positives associated with fast fashion? After all, fast fashion dominates

the industry; there must be something to learn from its success. One unexpected positive is the

fabric frequently used. As explained in the article “Fast Fashion May Have Benefits,” cotton may

seem like a more natural and sustainable choice compared to polyester, but throughout a

garment’s life polyester requires less energy because it does not require as frequent washings in

high temperatures (Rosenthal). On the other hand, polyester requires petroleum or other polluting

substances to produce (Uren). This illustrates that there is not a simple way to fix this problem.

Instead, as with the other alternatives discussed, more forethought is required to balance the

negative effects of polyester production with the negative effects of cotton use. One way to

address this is for clothing rentals to focus on polyester clothing, as this will balance the higher

number of people using, and therefore washing, a garment with the less energy-intensive

requirements of polyester. Taking this into account will allow for the benefits of fast fashion and

its alternatives to be implemented, which will result in the lowest environmental impact.

While the research shows the benefits that can come from renting clothes, recycling

garments, and shopping secondhand, the data itself will not change production and consumption

habits. To change these habits companies and consumers alike will have to let go of the current

fast fashion business model, but many fashion-forward individuals may be reluctant to depart

from the trends and statements of the fashion world. However, opting for more sustainable

practices does not mean all sense of style, creativity, and artistry will be lost. Changing the
 Peffley 6

narrative around fashion is key, and many adopters of sustainable fashion are finding ways to do

just that, by shoping for enjoyment as well as ethics.

For those hesitant to completely exit the seasonal trends, a more comfortable place to

start may be with rentals. Because rental services can frequently provide the consumer with a

new round of clothes, it is possible such services “can maintain or even increase the speed of

fashion” for the consumer (Zamani et al. 1369). The pieces that are borrowed may not always be

the absolute latest styles, but will nevertheless allow individuals to easily experiment with

different styles and trends without the environmental impact of constantly purchasing new

clothes. As a result, this alternative could be an easier transition for a large number of people,

since it does not require too great of a change in consumption patterns. It is important to note that

the rapid consumption of clothing is one of the main factors contributing to the waste and

environmental degradation of the fashion industry. To truly combat this problem, consumers and

producers must be willing to change their habits, not just substitute one behavior for another.

However, as long as rental services are put in place with forethought, as described above, they

should still be considered. It is essential to see rental services as a first step towards solving the

problem, not the solution in and of itself.

While recycling textiles can be a difficult process, and therefore one many people may

avoid, companies are working to make it easier. One such company is Marimole, based in New

York City. Used clothing is recycled and manufactured into new products. Present throughout

the company’s website are themes of accountability and accessibility. Marimole allows

consumers to track the clothing they have given and clothing can be picked up throughout the

city (​Marimole)​ . These factors, along with the local nature of the company, indicate important

ways to make textile recycling, and sustainable fashion in general, used more widely. Working to
 Peffley 7

address local problems transparently and accessibly should be the model used to increase

recycling.

Accessibility does not just apply to recycling, it also has relevance to secondhand

shopping. One thrift store, 1997 Thrift based in Los Angeles, has taken this into account. In an

article published in the Daily Bruin, a local newspaper, one of the store’s customers says, “1997

Thrift has been able to make being thrifty and sustainable more accessible to the younger

generation by using a social media platform” (Bhatti). The customer was referring to the store’s

Instagram account, primarily targeted at UCLA students, where available clothing is posted and

customers can ask questions. In addition to the program being organized locally, 1997 Thrift also

utilizes technology to draw in younger consumers who otherwise might not have had contact

with secondhand stores. This demonstrates that there are multiple ways to be accessible and that

accessibility is important to get more people involved in alternatives to fast fashion. However,

other factors besides accessibility have an important role in increasing secondhand shopping.

Besides accessibility, 1997 Thrift relies

on having an image associated with thrifting.

This image revolves around the idea that

because thrift stores do not function like retail

stores, they can provide unique clothing and

high variety as opposed to “homogenous items”

found in traditional fashion stores (Bhatti). This

uniqueness, found in many thrift stores, could

be a major selling point for consumers who

enjoy following the trends of the fashion

 Peffley 8

industry. Portraying individual style as an alternative to being fashionable could be an important

step in shifting more consumers towards secondhand clothing.

It can be difficult to imagine how all the benefits of these alternatives can be pulled

together to create a cohesive whole that consumers and producers will be eager to follow.

Inspiration for how to do this, however, can be found in an unlikely place: the history of fast

fashion. The documentary ​Zara: The Story of the World’s Richest Man​ describes the Spanish

brand Zara and its rise to prominence as the creator of fast fashion. A large part of the appeal of

Zara is the availability of items similar to luxury fashion for a much lower price and the sense of

luxury in the design of the stores (​Zara​). Essentially, Zara also relies on accessibility. Except

what Zara is making accessible is a feeling of quality and high living that otherwise would have

been out of reach of its consumers. The

documentary describes other aspects of

the brand, such as building stores in

wealthy neighborhoods and not using

advertising, that contribute to the air of

luxury that keeps customers coming back

(​Zara​). The success of this tactic

pinpoints a key element of how

alternatives to fast fashion can succeed. Sustainable fashion must develop an image to rival fast

fashion brands such as​ ​Zara. The question then becomes: What is the mood of sustainable

fashion, or, what should it be?

The major themes of sustainable fashion are being defined by individuals right

now. Analyzing what these themes are and working to portray sustainable fashion in this light is
 Peffley 9

key to getting more consumers to switch from fast fashion. The study “Exit From the High

Street” aimed to do just that. The study determined, through interviews, the motivation of

“pioneers” of sustainable fashion. Many of the respondents “distinguish[ed] between ‘style’ and

‘fashion.’ This latter they imbue[d] with such connotations as ‘dictation from above,’ ‘short

term,’ and ‘trendy,’ all symbolizing a lack of individuality and aesthetic conformity” (Bly et al.

130). The associations these fashion pioneers are creating goes much further than sustainability

and being environmentally friendly. Instead, they are creating a deeper meaning to sustainable

fashion. They are establishing an image to be associated with an entire business model, not just

one company, an important detail that could help drive the adoption of sustainable fashion.

Whereas fast fashion brands evoke images of luxury and richness, sustainable fashion practices

need to evoke the idea of individuality, freedom, ethics, and uniqueness. This vision of what

fashion could be can already be seen in thrift shops, where people praise the “one-of-a-kind

pieces” (Bhatti), in the recycling services committed to serving local needs, and rental programs

allowing people to experiment more sustainably with their own personal style. Shifting towards

this future will require a more organized approach, which is where sustainably-minded

companies come in. Consumers also have a role to play by making the decision to change their

habits. In the end, everyone must be willing to choose between the fabricated richness that fast

fashion offers and the individuality provided by alternatives.

Clothing rentals, recycling textiles, and buying secondhand are all viable options that can

decrease the environmental impact of the fashion industry as long as consumers and producers

are willing to adopt new practices and invest time in implementing these practices well. These

alternatives to fast fashion serve as solutions to many of the environmental problems that arise

from fast fashion. The switch to a more sustainable business model in the fashion industry will
 Peffley 10

therefore help create a healthier environment, as well as switching the narrative around fashion

from one of constant consumption, trends, and luxury styles to one valuing individuality and

freedom. The result will be an all around improvement in well-being. The choice remains, but

the one that betters the environment, and humanity, is clear.

 Peffley 11

Works Cited

Bhatti, Umber. “Online Thrifted Clothing Platform Offers Affordability, Convenience to

Students.” ​Daily Bruin,​ 25 Nov. 2018,

dailybruin.com/2018/11/25/online-thrifted-clothing-platform-offers-affordability-co

nvenience-to-students?utm_source=What%27s+Bruin&utm_campaign=f686b7f2

8c-EMAIL_CAMPAIGN_2018_11_26_04_18&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_

ee621e262a-f686b7f28c-149572855. Accessed 17 Oct. 2020.

Bly, Sarah, et al. “Exit from the High Street: An Exploratory Study of Sustainable

Fashion Consumption Pioneers.” ​International Journal of Consumer Studies,​ vol.

39, no. 2, 2015, pp. 125-35. ​EBSCOHost​, doi:10.1111/ijcs.12159. Accessed 17

Oct. 2020.

Farrant, Laura, et al. “Environmental Benefits from Reusing Clothes.” ​International

Journal of Life Cycle Assessment,​ vol. 15, no. 7, 2010, pp. 726-736.

ESBCOHost,​ doi:10.1007/s11367-010-0197-y. Accessed 17 Oct. 2020.

Gpccurro. “Zara Store in Brussels (Belgium).” ​Wikimedia Commons,​ 27 May 2016,

commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Zara_Bruselas_16.jpg. Accessed 5 Nov. 2020.

Marimole,​ www.marimole.com. Accessed 1 Nov. 2020.

Roos, Sandra, et al. “Will Clothing Be Sustainable? Clarifying Sustainable Fashion.”

Textiles and Clothing Sustainability: Implications in Textiles and Fashion,​ Ebook,

edited by Subramanian Senthilkannan Muthu, Springer, 2016, pp. 1-47.

EBSCOhost​,

sinclair.ohionet.org:80/login?url=https://search.ebscohost.com/login.aspx?direct=

true&db=cat011 28a&AN=scc.b1783495&site=eds-live. Accessed 23 Oct. 2020.

 Peffley 12

Rosenthal, Elisabeth. "Fast Fashion May Have Benefits." The Fashion Industry, edited

by Roman Espejo, Greenhaven Press, 2010, ​Gale In Context: Opposing

Viewpoints,​

link.gale.com/apps/doc/EJ3010660215/OVIC?u=dayt30401&sid=OVIC&xid=0b9f

2106. Accessed 11 Oct. 2020.

“Frequently Asked Questions.” ​Secondary Materials and Recycled Textiles (SMART)​,

www.smartasn.org/resources/frequently-asked-questions. Accessed 1 Nov.

2020.

“UN Alliance For Sustainable Fashion Addresses Damage of ‘Fast Fashion.’” ​UN

Environment Programme,​ 14 Mar. 2019,

www.unenvironment.org/news-and-stories/press-release/un-alliance-sustainable-

fashion-addresses-damage-fast-fashion. Accessed 1 Nov. 2020.

Uren, Ashlee. “Material Guide: How Sustainable is Polyester?” ​Good On You,​ 17 Sep.

2018, goodonyou.eco/material-guide-polyester-2/. Accessed 14 Nov. 2020.

Woolridge, Anne C., et al. “Life Cycle Assessment for Reuse/Recycling of Donated

Waste Textiles Compared to Use of Virgin Material: An UK Energy Saving

Perspective.” ​Resources, Conservation and Recycling​, Vol. 46, 2006, pp. 94-103.

doi:10.1016/j.resconrec.2005.06.006. Accessed 24 Oct. 2020.

Zamani, Bahareh, et al. “Life Cycle Assessment of Clothing Libraries: Can Collaborative

Consumption Reduce the Environmental Impact of Fast Fashion?” ​Journal of

Cleaner Production,​ Vol. 162, 2017, pp. 1368-75. ​EBSCOHost,​

doi:10.1016/j.jclepro.2017.06.128. Accessed 17 Oct. 2020.

 Peffley 13

Zara: The Story of the World's Richest Man​. Directed by Florence Kieffer, Prime

Entertainment Group, 2016. ​Films On Demand​,

fod-infobase-com.sinclair.ohionet.org/p_ViewVideo.aspx?xtid=189213. Accessed

26 Oct. 2020.