Any high resistance

in either the power side or ground side of the

starter circuit will cause the starter to rotate
slowly or not at all
Voltage drop is the drop in voltage that occurs when
current is flowing through a resistance. For example, a voltage drop
is the difference between voltage at the source and voltage at the
electrical device to which it is flowing. The higher the voltage drop
is, the greater the resistance in the circuit

Voltage drop testing should be performed

on both the power side and ground side of the circuit.
A high voltage drop (high resistance) in the cranking circuit wiring
can cause slow engine cranking with less than normal starter
amperage drain as a result of the excessive circuit resistance. If the
voltage drop is high enough, such as that caused by dirty battery
terminals, the starter may not operate

A typical symptom of high resistance

in the cranking circuit is a “clicking” of the starter solenoid

A Warm Cable Equals High Resistance

If a cable or connection is warm to the touch, there is
electrical resistance in the cable or connection. The
resistance changes electrical energy into heat energy.
Therefore, if a voltmeter is not available, touch the battery
cables and connections while cranking the engine. If
any cable or connection is hot to the touch, it should be
cleaned or replaced.

TECH TIP
Watch the Dome Light
When diagnosing any starter-related problem, open the
door of the vehicle and observe the brightness of the
dome or interior light(s).
The brightness of any electrical lamp is proportional to the
voltage of the battery.
Normal operation of the starter results in a slight dimming
of the dome light.
If the light remains bright, the problem is usually an open
in the control circuit.
If the light goes out or almost goes out, there could be a
problem with the following:
_ A shorted or grounded armature of field coils inside the

starter
_ Loose or corroded battery connections or cables

_ Weak or discharged battery

REASON FOR A STARTER AMPERAGE TEST A starter

should be tested to see if the reason for slow or no cranking is due to
a fault with the starter motor or another problem. A voltage drop test
is used to find out if the battery cables and connections are okay.
A starter amperage draw test determines if the starter motor is the
cause of a no or slow cranking concern.

If exact specifications
are not available, the following can be used as general maximum
amperage draw specifications for testing a starter on the vehicle.
_ 4-cylinder engines _ 150 to 185 amperes (normally less than

100 A) at room temperature

_ 6-cylinder engines _ 160 to 200 amperes (normally less than

125 A) at room temperature

_ 8-cylinder engines _ 185 to 250 amperes (normally less than

150 A) at room temperature

Excessive current draw may indicate one or more of the following:
1. Binding of starter armature as a result of worn bushings
2. Oil too thick (viscosity too high) for weather conditions
3. Shorted or grounded starter windings or cables
4. Tight or seized engine
5. Shorted starter motor (usually caused by fault with the field
coils or armature)
_ High mechanical resistance _ High starter amperage draw

_ High electrical resistance _ Low starter amperage draw

Lower amperage draw and slow or no cranking may indicate

one or more of the following:
_ Dirty or corroded battery connections

_ High internal resistance in the battery cable(s)

_ High internal starter motor resistance

_ Poor ground connection between the starter motor and the

engine block

Starter motor field coils. With the armature removed from

the starter motor, the field coils should be tested for
opens and grounds using a powered test light or an ohmmeter.
To test for a grounded field coil, touch one lead of
the tester to a field brush (insulated or hot) and the other
end to the starter field housing. The ohmmeter should indicate
infinity (no continuity), and the test light should not
light. If there is continuity, replace the field coil housing
assembly. The ground brushes should show continuity to
the starter housing.

Problem Possible Causes

1. Starter motor
whines
1. Possible defective starter drive; worn
starter drive engagement yoke; defective
flywheel; improper starter drive to
flywheel clearance
2. Starter rotates
slowly
2. Possible high resistance in the battery
cables or connections; possible
defective or discharged battery; possible
worn starter bushings, causing
the starter armature to drag on the field
coils; possible worn starter brushes or
weak brush springs; possible defective
(open or shorted) field coil
3. Starter fails to
rotate
3. Possible defective ignition switch or
neutral safety switch, or open in the
starter motor control circuit; theft deterrent
system fault; possible defective
starter solenoid
4. Starter produces
grinding noise
4. Possible defective starter drive unit;
possible defective flywheel; possible
incorrect distance between the starter
pinion and the flywheel; possible
cracked or broken starter drive-end
housing; worn or damaged flywheel or
ring gear teeth
5. Starter clicks when
engaged
5. Low battery voltage; loose or corroded
battery connections

anything
that would reduce current flow would affect
the operation of the solenoid. Common causes of the
clicking are low battery voltage, low voltage available
to the solenoid, or an open in the hold-in winding

Connect the voltmeter’s negative lead to

a good chassis ground. Connect the positive lead to
the starter motor feed at the starter relay or solenoid.
Activate the starter motor and observe the voltage
reading. Compare the reading to the specifications
given in the service manual. Normally, 9.6 volts is the
minimum required
Test Conclusions If the reading is above specifications
but the starter motor still cranks poorly, the
starter motor is faulty. If the voltage reading is lower
than specifications, a cranking current test and circuit
resistance test should be performed to determine if
the problem is caused by high resistance in the starter
circuit or an engine problem.

The usual way to check the field coils for opens is

to connect an ohmmeter between the coils’ power
feed wire and the field coil brush lead (Figure 18–31).
If there is no continuity, the field is open. To check the
field coil for a short to ground, connect the ohmmeter
from the field coil brush lead and the starter (field
frame) housing. If there is continuity, the field coil is
shorted to the housing.

Check for continuity between the segments of the

commutator (Figure 18–32). If an open circuit exists
between any segments, replace the armature.
replaced.
With an ohmmeter, check the armature windings
for a short to ground. Hold one meter lead to a commutator
segment and the other on the armature core.
Also check between the armature shaft and the commutator.
If there is continuity at either of these two
test points, the armature needs to be replaced.