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Tourism Managernent, Vol. 19, No. 6, pp.

555 565, 1998


Pergamon @ 1998 Elsevier Science Ltd. All rights reserved
Printed in Great Britain
0261-5177/98 $19.00 + 0.00
PII: S0261-5177(98)00060-0

Tourism in Russia: background and


structure
Peter Burns
Department of Tourism and Leisure, Luton Business School, University of Luton, Park Square, Luton,
Bedfordshire LU1 3JU, UK

As Russia transforms itself from the largest partner in the command economy that was the
Union of Soviet Socialist Republics to the largest member of the post Cold-War Common-
wealth of Independent States, political, social and economic structures and institutions are
undergoing rapid and fundamental change. Included in this is tourism, its role and how it is
organized. This paper provides a snapshot view of the official structural arrangements for
tourism in Russia as of summer 1997. It is hoped that the paper will prove useful for
scholars as they track these changes over time. The paper commences with a brief
geographic, demographic and economic profile of Russia, turns to a discussion of the
function of tourism in the former Soviet Union and goes on to examine the structural
arrangements for tourism. The paper concludes with some observations about the problems
and prospects of tourism and some suggestions for further research. © 1998 Elsevier Science
Ltd. All rights reserved.
Keywords: Russia, Soviet Union, tourism planning, political economy of tourism, tourism organization

Introduction large information gaps. The extensive restructuring


that has occurred as a result ofperestroika has had:
The general purpose of this paper is to provide a
view of the official structural arrangements for the (1) the effect of squeezing government depart-
organization and planning of tourism in Russia as its mental budgets to the extent that the cost of
society, politics and economy continues to undergo gathering statistics has become a burden; (and)
dramatic changes. The research was carried out (2) the development of a business culture whereby
through fieldwork during spring 1997. new entrepreneurs feel little obligation to supply
The political and social situation in the Common- the kind of economic and operational data to
wealth of Independent States (CIS) has been well government agencies that would normally be
described by Vaclev Havel, President of the Czech used to profile a complex sector such as tourism.
and Slovac Federal Republic and cited by Lavigne': The highly regarded Moscow Times reported that
The notion of the second world is now losing its the State Statistics Committee (Goskomstat) "is
substance. What remains is a huge amount of debris using a new methodology to calculate economic
and ruins which is a combination of the first and third statistics, essentially 'cooking the books' to create
worlds: by its aspirations and longing to create a the illusion of economic growth"? The accusation
democratic political system and prospering market was founded on the method by which Goskomstat
economy it relates to the first world ... however, by changed the way in which "it counted the 'grey'
the state of the economy and the types of national economic activity this year--without recalculating
and social problems it often resembles the third
world. the figures for last year--exaggerating the under-
lying improvement in the economy, if there is any"?
The phrase 'Shock Therapy' to describe the rapid Given Russia's political history, it is understandable
attempts at transition from command economy to that a culture exists that is not always responsive to
free markets and capitalism is in common usage by research questions; there is also an air of embarrass-
academic observers of the former Soviet Union. 2,3 ment amongst senior and junior officials in that they
Under these conditions, statistical data proved diffi- now know the extent of the economic, political and
cult to get, the rapidly changing government priori- social chaos that exists in Russia at present and that
ties in gathering and disseminating economic much of this has arisen out of distorted reporting of
intelligence has created a situation where there are the Soviet Union's economic 'successes.' Before

555
Tourism in Russia: P Burns

dealing with tourism, a brief geographic, revenues; the provision of effective law, order and
demographic and economic context is set. administration; and the payment of social commit-
ments such as state salaries and pensions. Even so,
tangible progrcss in the restructuring proccss has
Geographic, demographic and economic been achieved through eliminating price controls
profile and the old centralized distribution system, while at
the same time privatizing state monopolies through
At 17075000 sq. kin, Russia is by far the world's vouchers and decentralizing foreign trade. However,
largest country, and with a population in July 1995 at least five factors will continue to dominate the
of 149909089, ~' the 6th most populous. After the development agenda:
break up of the Soviet Union, Russia's geographic
balance shifted so that it became a northern (1) inflation (although this is getting under control,
country, that is to say that about two-thirds of its down from 2500% in 1991 to 20% in January
territory is within the same zone that includes 1997);
Finland, Sweden, Norway, and Alaska. It is (2) real wage levels which in April 1997 were 50%
important to understand that more than half the of their 1990 levels
country is located in a permafrost zone. This has (3) the extent of criminal or 'grey' activity in
produced not only development and production business and corruption in local government
difficulties, but a very significant imbalance in (mafiosi);
population distribution (though extractive industries, (4) tensions between shareholders (stockholders)
especially oil, have produced pockets of high and the unfinished business of privatization; and
population in otherwise 'empty' zones). About (5) the issue of unemployment which has doubled
three-quarters of the population live in European since 1992 and looks set to continue rising.
Russia. This is the geographical term for that part of
Russia which is defined by its boundaries with For example, in 1994, firms put an estimated 4.8
Finland, Norway, the Barents and White seas, the million people on unpaid leave or short-time hours.
Baltic states of Estonia and Latvia in the north; This workforce problem is complex, so that while
Belarus and the Ukraine to the west and the Black privatization has been judged, in quantitative and
and Azor seas towards the Caucasus (the border timescale terms 'a big success' and that by July 1994
with Georgia, Armenia and Azerbaijan) and south "15000 medium- and large-scale enterprises,
to the Caspian Sea. The southern part stretches employing over 70 per cent of the industrial
along the coast of the Caspian Sea and the border workforce ... [and] 70 per cent of state-owned small
with Kazakhstan; to the east it is bordered by the businesses in retail, catering and consumer services
Ural Mountains, which makes the natural division had been privatised ''7 (which by 1997 had risen to a
between European Russia and Western Siberia. In total of 100000 state owned small businesses trans-
late 1991, following a series of political crises, the ferred to private hands) to a large extent, managers
former Soviet Union as a political entity gave way to in recently privatized industries have not yet taken
a loose alliance called the Commonwealth of effective cost-cutting decisions based on realistic (as
Independent States (CIS). The CIS is comprised of: opposed to the traditionally inflated) workforce
the Russian Federation, Ukraine, Georgia, Armenia requirements. Ironically, this last point, from which
Uzbekistan, Azerbaijan, Belarus, Estonia, Moldova, it may be deduced that many of the old state firms
Latvia, Lithuania, Tajikstan, Kazakhstan, Kirghizia, continue to provide a disproportionate amount of
and Turkmenia. The Russian Federation (Russia) is social welfare to workers, may (in its own way) be
politically divided into 89 territorial units, comprised contributing to stability during a transitional period
of 21 ethnic republics, 66 autonomous territories in which the development of a social safety net has
and regions and the two cities of Moscow and St. not kept pace with the speed of reforms. In
Petersburg. The relationships between the Federal addition, the legal framework necessary to support
Government and these territorial units are very free capitalism (something not necessary under a
complex and are undergoing subtle changes in centrally planned economy) is only now emerging in
orientation and nature. any substantial form.
Russia possesses an abundance of natural These uncertain conditions have led to incon-
resources, a well educated population, and a diverse sistent economic development and growth. The
industrial base underpinned by well-founded scien- GDP for 1994 was $392 billion¢ but the 1996 figure
tific research. However, moving from the old fell 6% against 1995; there is little evidence to
Marxism-Leninism system to a capitalist economy indicate that this will rise. During the period
at the unrelenting pace that has characterized the 1985-1994, Russia experienced a real decline in
changes in Russia (and the former Soviet Union) GDP of 14.8%. During the period 1991-1995 infla-
since the initial perestroika reforms of the late 1980s tion was 222.1%, with the year 1994-1995 producing
has proved formidable. Major challenges continue to inflation of 197.7%. This last point, together with a
be: the government's inability to collect sufficient tax reasonably well-founded fear of banks, has led to

556
Tourism in Russia: P Burns

capital flight, as those with the ability send their Historically, international tourism in the USSR
money overseas; some $60.9 billion was sent had three functions. First as inbound international
overseas during the five year period from 1992 to tourism allowing foreigners to see certain aspects of
1996." While the actual figure could be argued (the the Soviet Union (mainly Moscow and St. Peters-
World Bank and US Institute for International burg), secondly in a political sense in that tourism
Finance estimates differ), it is clear that massive was used to promote the Soviet Union's image
amounts are involved. It has been estimated that as abroad and, thirdly, the state organization and total
much as 5% of G D P - - o r a third of all domestic control of tourism allowed a framework for
savings, ~' has been either sent abroad (in a literal monitoring foreigners' movements (many parts of
sense) or 'stored' in US dollar notes within Russia the USSR were restricted as being militarily or
as a hedge against the embattled rouble. The conse- industrially sensitive) and contacts with Soviet
quence of the flight of capital is twofold. First, a citizens. Overseas tourism was not normally avail-
potential source of investment in the expanding able to citizens, and travel outside the Eastern Bloc
economy is being lost and, secondly, the absence of seen as functional (i.e. for a specific purpose, such
sufficient domestic savings as investment has as sports, culture or political).
enabled foreign investors to take an even stronger Tourism was formerly seen as a non-productive
grip on ownership than might have been thought industry, mainly focused on recuperating the
possible (though this is countered somewhat by the workforce, thus Trade Unions were heavily involved
favoured attitude shown towards insiders and local with social tourism: health spas and medical treat-
companies on the privatization issue). The labour ments were (as mentioned above) given something
force in 1993 was 85 million. Of this, 16.1% was in of a priority. Trade Unions would deal with the
government employment. The unemployment rate in Ministries of Health and Social Welfare in getting
1994 was 7.1%, and 9.3% in 1996, but these figures vouchers for their members to take medical treat-
conceal the structural irregularities indicated above ment and recuperate. The highest percentage of
in the comments on the old state firms and social domestic tourism was, however, for sports and
welfare. Having examined these issues, the discus- recreation (Black Sea, Caucasus, river cruises) and
sion turns to the function and structure of tourism culture and citizenship (Moscow, the Golden Ring,
in Russia and its roots in the former Soviet Union. and St. Petersburg museums together with exhibi-
tions of Soviet achievements). As an indication of
the extent of Soviet domestic tourism, in 1990 the
Function and structure of tourism in Central Council for Tourist Excursions (a branch of
Russia and the former Soviet Union the Russian Union of Trade Unions) was respon-
In examining the structural arrangements of the sible for some 52 million tourists. The cost of such
tourism system in Russia special attention has been tourism was heavily subsidized (up to 80%) by the
given to three sets of relationships: various trade unions and enterprises. I'
Great emphasis was placed on children's camps
(1) between the Federal Government (i.e. Russia) and holidays. Like other tourism, such leisure activi-
and the territories that constitute the Federation ties had a clear purpose: to build healthy bodies and
(i.e. Ethnic Republics and Regions); to create good citizens, notably through the Young
(2) within and between government departments; Pioneers (Communist Party youth group). Travel to
(and) these camps would be by bus and, while the vast
(3) between Federal Government and various majority of such tourism took place within the
industry sectors (mainly the travel trade). USSR, travel overseas was not unknown. A vast
The rapidly changing socio-economic and cultural network of facilities grew up to meet the needs of
political spheres that characterize post-perestroika this particular sector.
Russia have given rise to great difficulties in
calculating and reporting the economic indicators of Distribution of Russia's tourism
tourism. The metaphor of the matryoshka doll serves
well for the complexities of conducting both qualita- Leaving aside the most obvious and frequently
tive and quantitative research into Russia's affairs. visited centres of Moscow and St. Petersburg, there
To give an example of the difficulty of this, one are at least two ways of dividing Russia into touristic
striking statistic may be cited: in the decades up to regions (Tables ] and 2) that add to the official
perestroika, there were only two significant travel division of touristic regions (Table 3). The first of
agents dealing with tourism, Intourist and Sputnik these allows a country-wide perspective, while the
(with an additional market player being the Trade second enables a clearer focus on the current
Union's Central Council for Tourist Excursions). In tourism situation. Neither of these first two divisions
1997 there were some 10,000 tourist enterprises carry any official status, they are interpretative:
leading to a situation which has been described by The following (Table" 3) shows the official way that
key industry figures as 'chaotic'.'" Russia is divided up for touristic purposes. It also

557
Tourism in Russia: P Burns

Table 1 Broad geographic/conceptual distribution of tourism

Region Description Characteristics

Southern European Russia Highly developed tourist region, between the Seaside (Sochi); Caucasus mountains (Dombay,
Black, Azov and Caspian Seas Baksan Valley); skiing
Central European Russia Stretches west front the eastern borders of the Volga-Don cruises (Volgograd, Nizhny
Baltic states to the Urals; Volga region Novgorod); includes Moscow and St.
Petersburg; culture
North European Russia, Western Siberia Lake Baikal; ecotourism; ethnic/culture tourism
Urals to the Yensei
River
Russian Far East Eastern Siberia, north towards Alaska Nature/geology tourism (volcanoes, glaciers esp.
(effectively between China, Korea and Japan) in the Kamchatka Peninsula

Source: Noble et al.'"

uses a threc figure scale to give a broad indication ren's holidays and youth travel), the central Union
of the state of infrastructure and facilities able to of Trade Unions, professional unions such as those
serve tourism. This list demonstrates quite clearly for scientists, writers and artists, the Communist
that, even in the 'new' Russia, medical treatment is Party itself, various state enterprises (factories etc.),
seen as intricately bound up with domestic tourism. the military, the KGB and police. Most travel was
This list may also be a reflection of the relationships 'paid' through vouchers from trade unions or the
between the State Committee for Sports and State. This being the case, there is no central
Tourism and the Regions and Republics, thus far register of accommodation for the country as a
only about 15-20 have signed or are in the process whole, though the State Committee for Sports and
of signing formal agreements with the Committee Tourism has attempted to address this challenge by
with regard to co-operation on tourism matters. conducting surveys. Nor are there are any consistent
The situation regarding accommodation for standards; some hotels/accommodation units are
tourism purposes is yet another rnatryoshka. There simply not of a sufficient standard to be relevant to
are two main reasons. The first reason is to do with incoming tourists, and as aspirations and outside
the unusually high proportion of spaces given over experience of Russian travellers is increased, such
to spa, medical and health treatments (cf. Table 3). facilities will not meet the new demands for quality.
This means that the dividing line between vacation/ For the Russian Federation, the overall accommo-
leisure use and medical care is fuzzy. The second dation picture is illustrated by Table 4.
complexity is due to the ownership patterns in the These data do not include the extensive networks
former Soviet Union. Accommodation units were of hostels, children's camps, private dacha etc. It
owned by Intourist (which dealt with inbound was unclear the extent to which the above figures
foreign tourists), Sputnik (which specialized in child- include medical centres and spas. It is important not

"Fable 2 Tourism distribution by products

Region Description Characteristics

The South Highly developed tourist region, between the Seaside (Sochi); Caucasus mountains (Dnmbay,
Black, Above and Caspian Seas Baksan Valley)
Volga region Stretches north-east along the course of the Volga-Don cruises; cave viewing; traditional
Volga from Astrakhan in the south via houses and churches; culture/ethnic tourism
Volgograd and Kazan to Nizhny Novgrod
North-West (including Stretches from the borders with Estonia and Nature and sports-based tourism, includes the
Kaliningrad) and North Latvia. beyond Lake Ladoga northwards past Kola Peninsula and Karelia; ancient churches
the Finnish and Norwegian borders to the and buildings (Kizhi Island and Petrozavodsk)
East and the White and Barents seas to the
East
Lake Baikal Southern Siberia, is important enough to be Nature based tourism; scientific nature reserves;
recognised as a tourism region in its own right unique ecosystems
(has UNESCO World Heritage status)
Russian Far East Bordered by China to the west, the seas of Includes Kamchatka Peninsula 'the land of ice
Japan and Okhotsk to the south and east and fire' (Volcanoes, glaciers)
Golden Ring (Zolotoe A loop of very old towns to the north-east of Suzdal, Sergiev Posad, Vladimir, Bogolyubovo.
Koltso) Moscow (product devised by Intourist in Plyos, Kostroma, Yaroslavl, Rostov-Veliky,
1970s) and Pereslavl-Zalessky; traditional wooden
architecture; monasteries, a 'picture of
Russian village life,' museums (often
featuring iconography and handicrafts, and
churches)
Source: field survey (1997).

558
Tourism in Russia: P Burns

to underplay the extent to which these were (and Environmental Protection and Natural Resources.
continue to be) integrated into accommodation Budgets for both organizations are low and getting
facilities. worse, reflecting the Federal government's
Arising out of the three ways of classifying the increasing difficulties with collecting tax revenues. In
distribution of tourism described above, it may be the past, the _+160 zapovedniki were mainly centres
deduced that, in addition to the traditional cultural of very high quality scientific research and flora/
tourism (as epitomized by the Zolotoe Koltso fauna protection not necessarily open to the public.
'Golden Ring' of old towns, monasteries and However, this may change due to the post-
museums to the north-east of Moscow), nature- perestroika financial crisis. The following two tables
based tourism, in various forms, is likely to play a list some of the most significant parks/reserves for
key role on the future development of Russia's tourism or with tourism potential provided scientific
tourism. For this reason it is worth briefly examining research can be enlarged to include tourism carrying
two other classifications: National Parks and Nature capacity studies.
Reserves. These are two separate categories and run Table 5 and 6 show the significant parks and
by two different government departments. The first reserves in Eastern Siberia and the Russian Far East
category, National Parks, consists of 25 sites, 13 of areas.
which were established after 1990.12 They are run by Karpovicz '2 suggests that the growing strength of
the State Forest Service. The Nature Reserves regional governments, a generally favourable global
(zapovedniks) are run by the Ministry of the attitude towards nature-based tourism and the

Table 3 Officially designated Federal Zones of Tourism Development

Region Grade ~' Description Locations recommended for tourism

Northern territories 3 Sightseeing, ecotourism, cruises, fishing, Arkhangelsk, Solovky, Vologda, Volgo-Baltic
hunting, heliskiing, trekking, pilgrimage channel, Kizhy, Valaam, Sortavala
North-West territories 1/2 Sightseeing, business/conferences, cruises, St. Petersburg, Vyborg, Lomonosov, Pavlosk,
self-drive Petrodvorets, Pushkin, Novgorod, Staraya
Russa, Valday, Pskov, Pechory, Pushkin
Hills
Baltic/Kaliningradskaya 2 Business tourism, cruises, medical treatment Kaliningrad, Zelenograd, Svetlogorsk,
Rybachye
Moscow and environs 1 Sightseeing, business/conference, self-drive Moscow, Vereya, Sergiev Posad,
Zvenigorod, Kolomna, Istra, Ruza
'Golden Ring' 2 Sightseeing, business, medical treatment, Kostroma, Yaroslavt, Rostov, Tutaev,
self-drive Uglich, V. Volochek, Tver, Ostashkov,
Lake Seliger, Torzhok, Pereslavl-Zalessky
Volga 2 Sightseeing, business, medical treatment, Nizhni Novgorod, Boldino. Astrakhan
river cruises, fishing

North Caucasus:
Caspian coast 2 Leisure vacation, sightseeing Derbent
Black and Azov coast 1 Leisure vacation, medical treatment, Anapa, Eysk, Sochi, Gelendgik, Azov
sightseeing
Caucasian Mineral Vody 1 Medical treatment, leisure vacation Kislovodsk, Pyatigorsk, Zheleznovodsk,
Minvody
Cabardino-Balkariya 2 Medical treatment, skiing Dombai

Siberia
Gornyi Altai 3 Leisure vacation, medical treatment, skiing, Teleskoe Lake, Belokuriha resort
ecotourism, trekking
Gornaya Shoria 3 Leisure vacation, medical treatment, skiing, Mezhdurechinsk, Tashtagol
ecotourism, trekking
Baikal 3 different purposes'" Irkutsk, Lake Baikal, Ulan-Ude, Kyahta
Yakutia 3 Sightseeing, business, ecotourism Yakusk. River Lena

Far East
Primorye 3 'different purposes' Vladivostok, Nakhodka
Sakhalin, Kuily 3 Leisure vacation, medical treatment, Aniyskiy Gulf, Kurily
sightseeing, business, hunting, fishing,
ecotourism
Kamchatka, Komandory 3 Ecotourism, hunting, fishing Petropavlovsk-Kamchatskyi, valley of hot
mineral springs, Komandorskie Islands
Source: Gulyaev. >
'This grade gives an estimate of the level of infrastructure, accommodation and facilities. 1 is high, 3 is low. (Worked out in association
with senior officials of the State Committee of Sports and Tourism).
"This is the category as listed by official sources.

559
Tourism in Russia: P Burns

Table4 Distribution of accommodation by official 'Economic f r e e d o m to travel within Russia for nationals and
Regions' of the Russian Federation (1996)
foreigners alike all indicate the possibility of
Economic region Beds '000s % realizing the obvious p o t e n t i a l s for a new tourism
p r o d u c t range b a s e d on nature. H o w e v e r , Karpovicz
Northern 49.6 4.0 goes on to argue that these positive indicators n e e d
North-Western 92.9 7.8
Baltic/Kaliningradskaya 14.6 1.2 to be offset against existing difficulties. T h e s e
Central 291.9 24.4 include: "very primitive infrastructure . . . no legisla-
Volgo-Vyatskiy 54.0 4.5 tion [and] . . . lack of e x p e r i e n c e in m a n a g e m e n t and
Central-Chernozemny 36.6 3.1 c o m m u n i c a t i o n . . . e c o t o u r i s m strategy, unknown
Volga Region 100.9 8.4 markets, inter-sectoral barriers, unstable e c o n o m i c
North Caucasus 211 17.7
Ural 123.4 10.3 situation". Even so, evidence seems to suggest a
West Siberia 91.9 7.7 viable and locally useful future for n a t u r e - b a s e d
East Siberia 64.2 5.4 tourism if institutional s t r e n g t h e n i n g is given to:
Far East 66.2 5.5
Totals 1198.0 100.0 (1) policy making, m o n i t o r i n g and i m p l e m e n t a t i o n ;
(2) n a t u r e - b a s e d tourism strategic planning;
Source: State Committee for Sports and Tourism, 1996 (trans-
lated by Natalia Volodamonov). (3) scientific and visitor m a n a g e m e n t (including
carrying capacity studies); and
(4) marketing.

In s o m e areas (notably L a k e Baikal) this is


a l r e a d y h a p p e n i n g with i n t e r n a t i o n a l technical
assistance. T h e r e m a i n i n g challenge is to b r e a k the
Table 5 National parks and nature reserves in eastern Siberia catch-22 infrastructure/investment/product cycle
and Russian far east w h e r e b y the p r o d u c t r e m a i n s of limited a p p e a l
b e c a u s e the s u p p o r t i n g infrastructure is poor, which
Barguzin North-east shore of Lake Baikal (sable,
flying squirrel etc.) in turn m e a n s that the level of visitor arrivals is
Central Siberian Reserve of virgin taiga on the Yenisey insufficient to c r e a t e significant e c o n o m i c impact.
River
Kronotsky Kamchatka Peninsula (bears, sea lions,
sea eagles; volcanic activity) Russia's tourism economics
Lazovsky Monsoon forest reserve on Pacific Coast
100 km north of Vladivostok (Siberian Piirainen t3 has suggested that the r e s t r u c t u r i n g of
tiger) Russia's e c o n o m y has resulted in the decline of
Sikhote Alyinski Ussuri region (birds and Siberian tiger)
Taymyr Peninsula Tundra north of Norilsk (red breasted official e c o n o m i c activity as p e o p l e r e s p o n d to infla-
goose and musk ox) tion and the t h r e a t of u n e m p l o y m e n t to the shadow
Ust-Lensky Largest reserve. Tundra at the mouth of ('grey') economy. " A growing share of e c o n o m i c
Lena River activity is t h e r e f o r e out of reach of taxation, legal
Wangel Island 140 km off coast of far-north Russia
(polar bears, walruses, snow geese) control and public r e g u l a t i o n " (p. 241). This has led
to u n r e g u l a t e d and u n c o n t r o l l e d m a r k e t activity
Sources: Noble et al?'; Karpovicz.'~ which does not o p e r a t e within the f r a m e w o r k of the
law. A f u r t h e r result o f these e c o n o m i c and political
c o n t r a d i c t i o n s is the difficulty of using the tax b a s e
to r e d i s t r i b u t e wealth to those unable, by age or
o t h e r circumstances, to e n g a g e in the m a r k e t
economy. Thus it may be a r g u e d that r e v e n u e and
Table 6 Examples of other significant national parks and tax collection has p r o v e d o n e of the most
reserves challenging areas, along with legislation, for the
Russian F e d e r a t i o n as it t r a n s f o r m s its economy.
Altay Western Siberia, stretching east of Lake T h e r e is little statistical d a t a on the c o n t r i b u t i o n
Teleskoe to the Khakassia and Tuva
borders of tourism to government revenues. Since
Kandalaksha Kola Peninsula (sea birds) p e r e s t r o i k a , G o s k o m s t a t has n e i t h e r the b u d g e t n o r
Lapland Spans north and west from Monchegorsk the facilities to collect d a t a from an industry which
towards Norway and Finland (reindeer, is m a d e up of so m a n y sectors and which includes a
wolves, complex flora)
Nirbnezvirsky high p r o p o r t i o n of small businesses. A n e s t i m a t e
South-eastern shore of Lake Ladoga
(north-east of St. Petersburg) was given that in 1995, 3.5 trillion R o u b l e s w o r t h of
(migratory birds, ringed seal) including direct services t u r n e d over in tourism (at Rs. 5000 to
mouth of Svir River (salmon spawning) US$ 1, the 1995 exchange rate, this was equivalent
Przhevalsky 60 km from Smolensk (hiking, camping, to US$ 700 million). ~4 T h e s a m e source e s t i m a t e d
riding, fishing)
that for 1996 the figure was 6.2 trillion (at 1996
Sources: Noble et al.[19]; Karpovicz." exchange rates this is US$ 1088 million).

560
Tourism in Russia: P Burns

The Presidential Decree for tourism (1284, dated Currently much of domestic tourism remains health/
22 December 1995) sets certain targets for tourism, sun/beach and spa related. Increasingly, it will
stating that implementation of the tourism develop- include trips to such areas as Lake Baikal and
ment programme outlined in the Presidential Kamchatka, the so called "land of fire and ice,"
Decree will need some Rs. 2044.2 billion (1995 although interviews with the Intourist Holding
prices), comprised of Rs. 6.2 billion from the Company revealed that their one hotel property was
Federal budget and a further Rs. 2029.6 billion from "quite empty! ''15.
non-budgetary sources. This investment has been In addition to the usual facilities, such as hotels,
linked to expectations of additional annual tax camps and hostels, national parks etc., the recrea-
revenues of Rs. 300-350 billion and US$1 billion in tional facilities for domestic tourism remain
foreign exchange. Special note was also given to segmented, to some extent, in a way characteristic of
developing linkages between various economic former structures:
sectors, such as construction, agriculture, transport,
communications, consumer goods and trade. (1) sanatoria and holiday homes with medical
However, it should be noted that discussions with treatment;
local hotel operators revealed that, while in (2) children's excursion bureaux and tourist hostels;
principle locally manufactured goods are available, (3) hostels and grounds of hunter's and fishermen's
standards and reliability of delivery give cause for societies;
concern--the same applies to agricultural products. (4) sports and recreation camps for teenagers;
At present, some larger operators prefer to import (5) summer houses of kindergartens and nurseries;
goods rather than risk failure in the Russian supply (6) hotels and facilities belonging to trades unions;
chain. (7) rest facilities specifically for the writer's artists'
As noted above, meaningful data for domestic actors' and musicians' unions.
tourism are difficult to obtain. The main reason is This segmentation has become irrelevant to the
that dramatic changes in ownership patterns, i.e. the proposed future shape of tourism and entered a
privatization process, has meant the collapse of process of transformation in line with changes in
consistent reporting of statistics. For example, the social and consumer attitudes towards tourism,
Central Council for Tourism Excursions (part of the During 1997, the Union of Trade Unions was
Union of Trade Unions) estimated domestic leisure developing an idea that it hoped would eventually
travellers for 1995 to be no more than 5 million. replace the former system of vacations being
This figure was arrived at by multiplying the avail- arranged by state enterprises, but keep to the ideals
able bed spaces by the occupancy rates for accom- of social (i.e. subsidized and organized) tourism.
modation most usually taken up by domestic This scheme is called "Holiday Cheques for Russia",
tourists. While acknowledging that ownership whereby employers and employees save in tandem
patterns and full market prices may have led to a with the subsidy element created through tax relief.
downturn, evidence from the field research The same situation applied to the law on Social
(including interviews with senior private and public Tourism which was also being considered by the
sector tourism officials) seems to suggest that this Duma. So, while the philosophy of the proposed
was too great a fall from the only other available scheme is clear, the legal framework is not.
statistic of 52 million for 1990.
However, these statistical difficulties do not cloud
the reality that the State Committee for Sports and Administrative and legal framework of
Tourism (SCST) still places great emphasis on tourism
domestic tourism in general and social tourism in
particular. The Presidential Decree 1284 (1995) During the period of field research, it appeared that
states the need for "the creation of an up-to-date Committees (i.e. ministries) were not working in
domestic tourism market ... [and] the development harmony to promote tourism; there was a lack of
of social tourism in Russia ... [and to give] support co-ordination between, for example, departments
to domestic tourism businesses and small businesses responsible for visas, aviation, and customs. Thus,
in particular." The Decree continues very clearly: efforts to promote inbound tourism were hampered
by excessive visa requirements (a lesson apparently
Socially, the Program will result in providing favour- learnt by many of the other former Eastern Bloc
able conditions for people's rest, health improvement countries). Evidence from the field research suggests
and enjoying cultural values. In this respect, that these procedures were more related to foreign
particular attention shall be given to the problems of policy reciprocal arrangements motivated by the
tourist and recreational activities of the most needy
sections of the population (Presidential Decree 1284, difficulty Russians experienced in obtaining travel
1995). visas for certain Western European countries.
One of the fundamental requirements for the
The section on expected outcomes reiterates this effective functioning of a capitalist market is for
list, adding "educating and upbringing children." consistent, clear and enforceable legal frameworks

561
Tourism in Russia: P Burns

covering contractual obligations and the right to Following perestroika it was the industry, through
legal redress. This is not yet the case in Russia. The RATA, that took the lead in promoting the idea of
Financial Times of London summarized the a regulated travel industry market from about the
situation: middle of 1996. RATA sees regulation as being
through three factors: standards, certification and
Weak and untested property and contract safeguards, licensing. By forcing the pacc and (in a sense)
endless regulations enforced by hostile and often setting the regulatory agenda, RATA was able to
venal [i.e. corrupt] bureaucrats, and a playing field
made uneven by trading and tax favours granted to counteract the relatively weak position of tourism
the Kremlin's friends are complaints frequently within the newly formed State Committee for Sports
cited." and Tourism (where sports had the dominant role).
RATA worked with the Tourism Department to
Insofar as tourism is concerned, new laws dealing develop the new tourism legislation.
with a tourism act, tourism fees, insurance, tourism Legislation and regulation have emerged as the
development, standardization and certification were key issues. At present, some 10000 tour operating/
being drafted and some had been presented to the travel agency companies are operating in a chaotic
Duma. At the time of writing, no translation of 'free' market. Only the top 10 or 20 companies are
these laws was available. acting in a responsible manner in terms of proper
A number of professional associations have business arrangements, contracts and relationships.
sprung up since perestroika. This growth in social Field research revealed a clear demand from these
institutions is a characteristic found elsewhere in the larger operators for state standards and legal frame-
former Eastern Bloc and can be seen as a product of works with which to define procedures and require-
the processes of democracy and the development of ments necessary for the operation of travel
a broad civil society. The following list shows the businesses. For example, the League for the Protec-
situation in April 1997; however, the political and tion of the Rights of Travellers, a voluntary group
social turmoil evident in Eastern Europe means that financed by the main travel companies and organ-
this should be treated as a snapshot in time, the ized by the Director of Certification of Tourist and
situation is changing and new groupings will emerge Hotel Services (Department of Quality Services,
to satisfy a range of needs as business and political Government of Moscow) is aimed, in the long term,
sub-systems develop new relationships and under- at developing a situation whereby non-compliance
standings. Given this volatile tourism sector situa- with the standards will mean withdrawal of licence
tion, which is not being extensively written about or and removal from the market place. This demand
even reported in the public domain, actual names of for enforced regulation as a way of controlling
officials are listed (where available). This unusual rampant excesses is particularly interesting in the
step is intended to provide scholars of Russia's light of the WTTC's efforts to promote self-regula-
tourism to keep track of what happens to the key tion within the industry rather than government
actors over time: legislation.

(1) Russian Hotel Association (RGA) (Mr.


Yakovlev) Relationship between Federal Government
(2) National Tourist Association (HTA) (Mr. and the Regions
Konovalov)
(3) Russian Association of Social Tourism (RAST) As noted earlier, the State Committee for Sports
(rooted in Trade Union) (Mr. Laptev) and Tourism has signed formal agreements with
(4) Russian Association of Travcl Agencies between 15 and 20 territories within the Federal
(RATA) (Mr. Shpilko) Republic. These agreements offer financial and
(5) Tourism and Sports Union of Russia (TCCP) technical assistance with marketing, collateral
(6) Association of Travel Organisations of Russia preparation (brochures etc.), participation in trade
(ASTOR) shows (ITB, Moscow and Spain), and tourism
planning. However, this centre-periphery relation-
Each of these groups acts in different ways and ship is not structured to encourage strategic
has different objectives. The common theme, alliances between territories to develop new
however, is their uncompromising agreement on the products. There was some evidence to suggest that
need for regulation and clear market conditions. In the State Committee remained quite satisfied with
this they separately lobby various organs of govern- such arrangements in that they bolstered its position
ment. Interestingly, this goes against the general at the centre: it might be argued that dynamic
thrust of the World Travel and Tourism Council relationships, including regional co-operation,
which makes consistent demands for deregulation/ between territories actually endanger the State
self-regulation, even in the face of growing evidence Committee's central position and are thus not,
that this does not provide sufficient security for perhaps, viewed in a particularly positive light by
business in restructuring economies. them.

562
Tourismin Russia."P Burns

[Mr. Sokolov [~. ~ ' e g i,~li°2;n~, ac ts ~

Government of the
Russian Federation
(Department of
Culture & | k State Committee for / kRATA; RHA; NTA:
Information) |~. N,~ports ana t o u n s m / / ',ASTOR etc.)lobby
Mr. Shapdurasulov I -''''-. _ ...... ~ ...... .~lgO;i~lmatme
2 t2Od reg~/2ti on,

State Committee for


Sports & T o u r i s m
Mr. Tyagachev
I
Overseas
Representatives o f
State Committee for
Sports & T o u r i s m

Division of Resorts [
Mr. Storozhenko [

,1
Tourism/Sports/
[D i v / s i ~
Tourism Market Development

Certification & Licensing


[

Culture Departments
of the 89 territorial
regions b
i Statistics and Economics

Tourism Development Coordination [

Source: field research


Notes: (a) The State Duma is the elected lower house which has responsibility for overseeing economic and social
legislation (at the time of writing the relationship between the two houses and the power of Presidential decree was still
evohing).
(b) The territorial regions comprise 21 Ethnic Republics with elected presidents, 66 Regions and the 2 cities of Moscow
and St. Petersburg each of which have full Regional status with elected governors).
(c) In addition to this structure, the Chairman has advisers of corresponding status with divisional heads.
(d) Russia Association of Travel Agents; National Tourism Association; Russian Hotel Association: Association of
Travel Organisations of Russia
Figure 1 Structure of public sector tourism administration in the Russian Federation (April 1997). Source: field research. (a) The State
Duma is the elected lower house which has responsibility for overseeing economic and social legislation (at the time of writing the
relationship between the two houses and the power of Presidential decree was still evolving). (b) The territorial regions comprise 21
Ethnic Republics with elected presidents, 66 Regions and the two cities of Moscow and St. Petersburg, each of which have full Regional
status with elected governors. (c) In addition to this structure, the Chairman has advisers of corresponding status with divisional heads.
(d) Russia Association of Travel Agents; National Tourism Association; Russian Hotel Association; Association of Travel Organisations
of Russia

563
Tourism in Russia: P Burns

Figure 1 illustrates the complex set of relationships hand there is clearly a dynamic tourism business
between the State Committee, the Regions and market characterized by about 20 main players in
industry pressure groups. Once again, for the the travel trade sector, a handful of hotels in the two
reasons explained earlier in this paper, it is seen as main cities and a number of airlines (some with
appropriate in this transient situation to include dubious reputations), while on the other there is a
names of officials so as to allow tracking over time lack of faith in current legislation and busincss
as the events unfold. which is holding back Foreign Direct Investment
and foreign partnerships. Individual officials are
New trends in airlines coming to terms with thc 'truth' of their situation,
the heavy pollution, the gangsterism, while at the
In 1992, the US State Department put out a travel same time trying to promote their particular region
advisory recommendation urging US citizens to (many of which arc characterized by very poor infra-
think twice about travelling on domestic Russian structure) and work out their position within the
airlines with their reputation for poor service and Commonwealth of Independcnt Statcs. This has led
safety record. In 1997, a similar position existed with to a burgeoning resurgence in ethnicity: a state of
the smaller airlines being described as "the ones being that was, for the most part, denied by Soviet
with safety problems, the over-age pilots (almost 200 authorities in thcir search for a unified Soviet
over 60) and lack of funds for repair". ~: During the Republic. This alone demands detailed ethnographic
field work, man)' Russian officials described the study on the way in which official tourism promotion
move as part of a conspiracy to shift business to and nationalism are, in certain conditions, seemingly
foreign airlines so as to deny Russia foreign converging in a way not seen before. On the part of
currency. The major problem remains that no foreign advisers and aid donors there has been a
separate agency exists to monitor air safety stand- mounting fecling of despair as the projects they
ards, thus the job is, in effect, done by Aeroflot propose are seen as cash cows, a sort of commoditi-
itself. zation of aid, again a useful area of research.
The creation of domestic airlines in Russia grew However, for social/political scientists the most
o u t of the institutional chaos that followed the break interesting area for research is in the way tourism is
up of the Soviet Union. Up until that time there was playing a part in reconstructing local history,
only one carrier, Aeroflot which owned between although its contribution is overshadowed by the
3807 and 5467 aircraft, many of which were first nationalism displayed in the virtual (and in some
delivered in the late 1960s (II 62s, Tu 134s, Yak 40s, recent cases, actual) state of war that exists between
An 22/24s) and some as early as the 1950s (I1 18s, Moscow and certain regions within Russia and the
An 12s) (EIU, 1992). Domestic airlines in Russia CIS.
can be categorized into two groups. The first group It is quitc apparent that the process of change
consists of about 200 operators which 'own' between must be supported in ways that go beyond material
one and 10 aircraft. '~ No legal ownership agree- infrastructure, but also includes the development of
ments or payment settlements concerning these NGOs, and cultural support that (in a sense)
aircraft and the supporting assets have been re-invents the local cultural traditions that were
achieved between the new carriers and the progeny repressed, or objectified during the Soviet era.
of the former ministries of Aviation and Transport. Tourism, both domestic and international, clearly
The more significant of these domestic carriers are has a role to play in this, provided that officials can
based on those 33 geographic divisions that recognize (as in the past but for a different set of
comprised the former Aeroflot network and which reasons) that tourism can be thought of in terms far
remain Russian territory. Examples of this group wider than the mere cconomic.'" ~''
include: Baikal Avia, Pulkovo Airlines, KrasAero,
Aviaprima, and Unukovo Airlines. The second
group consists of a limited number of properly References
organized carriers, private, joint-stock and govern- 1. Lavigne, 1995 The Economics of Transition: From Socialist
mental, which operate regular and frequent Economy to Market Economy, Basingstokc: Macmillan.
domestic flights, international flights and inter- 2. Layard, R. and Parker, J. (1996) The Coming Russian Boom,
national charters. The most significant of these is New York: The Free Press.
the former Aeroflot, now officially called Aeroflot- 3. Kotz, D. and Weir, F. (1997) Revolution /?om Above: the
Demise qf the Soviet ,~wftem, London: Routledge.
R1A which dominates the hub at Moscow's Shere- 4. Bakcr-Said, S. (1997) Economists dispute growth figures The
metyevo airport. Others include Transaero and AJT Moscow Times, March 18th 1997.
Air International. 5. Helmer, J. (1997) Investment firms cash in on phantom
growth The Moscow Tribune, No 39 (1958) April 2rid 1997.
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C o n c l u s i o n s and further research 7. Skidelsky, R. (1995) The World A['ter Communism, London:
Macmillan p.183.
Emerging from the chaotic system described above 8. The Economist (1997) Pocket Worht in F'igures 1997 Edition,
are two distinctly conflicting trends. On the one London: Profile Books.

564
Tourism in Russia: P Burns

9. Wolf, M. (1997) Transformations take a lot longer Financial 15. Konovalov, I. (1997) President, Intourist Holding Company,
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company), personal communication. April 9th, 1997.
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(trades union organisation), personal communication. The London Evening Standard, 18th July, 1997.
12. Karpovicz, Z. (1993) The Challenge of Ecotourism: Applica- 18. Grimov, 1. (1997) Moscow entrepreneur, personal
tions and Prospects for Implementation in the Countries of communication.
Central and Eastern Europe and Russia The Tourist Revue, 19. Noble, J. et al (1996) Russia, Ukraine and Belarus, a Lonely
3/1993 pp. 28-40. Planet Travel Sun,ival Kit, Hawthorne: Lonely Planet.
13. Piirainen, T. (1997) Towards a New Social Order in Russ'ia: 20. Gulyaev V. G. (1996) Organization (4f' Tourism Activities,
Transforming Structures and Eveo~day Li[b, Aldershot: Moscow: Moscow Academy of Economics and Law (trans-
Dartmouth. lated by Natalia Volodomanov).
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Joint-Stock Holding Company 'Moskva' personal Products, London: Thomson.
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