Different TYPES OF MACHINE USED IN KNITTING AND WEAVING

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Assignment On:

Different Types of Machines Used in Knitting and Weaving

Semester : Summer –2020


Program : BSTE (Day)
Course Code : ME405
Course Title : Textile Machines & Maintenance

Submitted By:
Riad Mahmud
ID: 171355035

Submitted To:
Engr. Faridul Islam Surjo
Lecturer,
Dept. of Textile Engineering
City University

Introduction: We all can appreciate the textile industry as it is responsible for many products
we use in our daily lives. The industry makes our clothes, curtains, types of flooring, and even
furniture. Because it has such an impact on our lives, the textile industry is large and has a high
demand. But how does an industry produce all of the products we want and need? Well, there are
specialized machines that make the items quickly and efficiently. In this lesson, we will learn
about some of the commonly required machinery in the textile industry.
Weaving is done on a machine called a loom or weaving machine. All the weaves that are known
today have been made for thousands of years. The loom has undergone significant modifications,
but the basic principles and operations remain the same. Warp yarns are held taut within the
loom, and weft yarns are inserted and pushed into place to make the fabric. 
Knitting is the process in which fabrics are produced by set of connected loops from a series of
yam in weft or warp direction is called knitting.. The basic element of a knit fabric structure is
the loop intermeshed with the loops adjacent to it on both sides and above and below it. 

IN KNITTING
Machineries are used for Knitting:
1. V-bed knitting machine
2. Circular knitting machine
3. Four truck single jersey circular knitting m\c
4. Mechanical Interlock circular knitting machine
5. Electronic Interlock Circular Knitting Machine
6. Interlock circular knitting machine.
7. Rib circular knitting machine
8. Jacquard Circular Knitting Machine
9. V- Bed Automatic Knitting Machine
10. Collar Cuff V- Bed Automatic Knitting Machine
11. Tricot Warp Knitting Machine
12. Linking Machine
13. Hand Socks Knitting Machine
14. Automatic Socks Knitting Machine
15. Straight bar frame knitting machine
16. Rachel warp knitting machine
17. Single truck single jersey circular knitting m\c

1.V-bed knitting machine:


In the following figure shows a cross section of a simple hand powered and manipulated V-bed
rib flat machine. The trick walls are replaced at the needle bed verges by fixed, thinner, polished
and specially shaped knock-over bit edges. In rib gating, a knock-over bit in one bed will be
aligned opposite to a needle trick in the other bed. During knitting, the edges of the knock-over
bits restrain the sinker loops as they pass between the needles and thus assist in the knocking
over of the old loops and in the formation of the new loops.
Diagram of V-bed Knitting Machine
The cover plate is a thin metal blade, located in a slot across the top of the needle bed tricks. It
prevents the stems of the needles from pivoting upwards out of the tricks as a result of the fabric
take down tension drawing the needle hooks downwards whilst allowing the needles to slide
freely in their tricks. 
Latch opening brushes are attached to the cam plates of both needle beds to ensure that the
needle latches are fully opened. The supports of the brushes are adjustable to ensure precise
setting of the bristles relative to the needles. 
The cam-carriage either slides or runs on ball bearings or wheels, along guide rails, one of which
is fixed over the lower end of each needle bed. It is propelled either by hand or from a motor
driven continuous roller chain or rubber belt. 
Each yarn carrier is attached to a block which slides along a bar, which, like the carriage guide
rails, passes across the full width of the machine. 
Two levers are usually provided, one at each end of the needle bed. One is for racking the back
needle bed, to change the gating of the needle beds for changes of rib set out or rib loop transfer. 

2. Circular knitting machine:


Circular knitting machine is a device which is used to create weft knitted fabrics in a semi or
fully automated fashion. It always produce a tube-shaped fabric. The principle for circular
knitting machine feed from the knitting elements yarn moves from the yarn supply or creel
through guides to stop motions control above the machine, then back down to tension controls
and yarn feeding devices to the knitting elements. Quality products can be produced only on stop
motion and yarn feeding functions are properly set. Then inter get action knitting and needles
form loops. The course at the needle of the machine between the take up and yarn feeding
mechanism. Circular weft knitting, needle let one after the other in a sequence for each yarn.
Loops are formed horizontally by needle knitting around the cylinder forming a tube. After yarn
is knit on the knitting elements the knitted
fabric passed over a spiral mechanism
through take-up roller and round a
roll. This electrical spiral distribute the
take-up tension uniformly and
reliable to fabric confirm flat tube.
fig: Circular Knitting Machine

3. Four Truck Single Jersey Circular Knitting Machines:


The single jersey circular knitting m/c is one of the modern m/c. It has one set of needle and
another set of sinkers. Both needle and sinkers have different cam system. Cam system are
stationary and the cylinder with needle and sinkers are movable. The yarn feeder is stationary.
The yarn is coming from cheese or cone package by yarn guide, north catcher, accumulator and
yarn guide or feeder. The fabric draw off by the side of the needle and it take up by take up
roller. There is a lighting system to inspection the fabric. The m/c has positive feed system and
breakage indicator.

Operation Principle:
As the m\c is modern, it has a control panel of it’s own. In a switch box three switches are
available. One is for full sewing, one is for m\c stop & another is for machine motion. By the
inching motion switch, the m\c can be run slowly or fastly. Beside this switch box another
control panel is available. It has different functions, switches as F1.F2……f6 have their
particular functions.
Fig: Four track single jersey circular knitting machine

4. Mechanical Interlock Circular Knitting Machine:


Interlock structure is a double faced Interlock structure which consists of two 1×1 Interlock
structures. These two 1×1 Interlock structures are joined by interlocking sinker loops and thus
produce interlock structure. Interlock structure is produce by special cylinder & dial circular
machines. Double system Tricot flat knitting machine also used to produce interlock structure.
Yarn from package set in the creel comes into m/c with the help of the guide & tensioner. With
the help of feeder yarn is feed to the needles of cylinder & dial. Then yarn in fabric from comes
to take down roller & lastly cloth roller.

Operation Principle:
The yarn is supplied from cone, placed either on an integral over-head bobbin stand or one free
standing creel through tensioners stop motion & guide eyes down to the yarn feeder guides. The
fabrics is tube form is drawn downwards from inside the needle cylinder by tension rollers & is
wound on to the fabric batching roller of winding down fabrics. The winding down mechanism
revolves in unison with the cylinder & fabrics tube & in rock lever operated via cam followers
running on the underside of a profiled cam-ring. The sinker cam plate is mounted outside on the
needle circle, the center of the cylinder is referred to as an open top or sinker top m/c.
Knitting Action:
The knitting cycle of a interlock machine can be divided in to eight headings. They are discussed
below,
Position – 1: Rest position: The head of these needles are in the range of the knock over edges of
cylinder & dial respectively.
Position – 2: Tucking position of dial needle: The dial needles are brought into the tucking
position.
Position – 3: Tucking position: The cylinder needles are brought in the tucking position.
Position – 4: Clearing position of dial needle: The dial needles are come into the clearing
position.
Position – 5: Clearing position: The cylinder needle are come into the clearing position.
Position – 6: Yarn presenting position: Both cylinder & dial are moved to the yarn presenting
position.
Position – 7: Cast on position: Both cylinder & dial are moved to their cast on position.
Position – 8: Knock over position: Both cylinder & dial are reaches to the knock over position.

5. Electronic Interlock Circular Knitting Machine:


The machine has two sets of needles on two different beds, one set on cylinder one in the dial
bed. These two sets of needles must be exactly opposite to each other.
The machine has two separate cam system in each bed needles of different length called short
needles and long needles. Each cam system controls half of the needles in alternate sequences.
One cam system controls knitting at one feeder and other ca, system controls at the next feeders.
T ale down mechanism is the same as the other Interlock and plain machines mechanism.

Knitting action:
The knitting cycle of a interlock machine can be divided in to eight headings. They are discussed
below,
Position – 1: rest position
Position – 2: tucking position of dial needle
Position – 3: tucking position
Position – 4: clearing position of dial needle
Position – 5: clearing position
Position – 6: yarn presenting position
Position – 7: cast on position
Position – 8: knock over position

6. Interlock Circular Knitting Machine:


The machine has two sets of needles on two different beds, one set on cylinder one in the dial
bed. These two sets of needles must be exactly opposite to each other. The machine has two
separate cam system in each bed needles of different length called short needles and long
needles. Each cam system controls half of the needles in alternate sequences. One cam system
controls knitting at one feeder and other cam system controls at the next feeders. T ale down
mechanism is the same as the other Interlock and plain machines mechanism.
Knitting Action:

7. Rib Circular Knitting Machine:


In a dial cylinder rib machine there is one set of needles on the circumference of the vertical
cylinder and another set of needles on a horizontal dial. So two sets of needles remain at the right
angle with each other. In dial cylinder machines the dial and cylinder rotates but the cam systems
with the feeders remain stationary.
The dial needles get its motion from its butt which is placed on the cam truck. This cam truck is
formed by different cam placed on a cam plate.
During the rotation of the cylinder, cylinder needles moves vertically and dial needles moves
horizontally. Cylinder needles also get its motion from it. There is a cloth tale up roller which
also rotates with unison to dial and cylinder and fabric is wound on it.

Knitting action:
The knitting action of a circular rib machine is shown in Fig:
Fig: Knitting action of rib circular knitting machine

1. Clearing: The cylinder and dial needles move out to clear the plain and rib loops formed in the
previous cycle.
2. Yarn feeding: The needles are withdrawn into their tricks so that the old loops are covered by
the open latches and the new yarn is fed into the open hooks.
3. Knocking Over: The needles are withdrawn into their tricks so that the old loops are cast off
and new loops are drawn through them.

8. Tricot Warp Knitting Machine:


Compound needle is used in the m/c. With the help of the pattern drum and the chain link the
patterning is done. The gears are merged in oil bath for smooth operation. There are two back
beam for yarn supply. The yarns come through guide bar and through the needle the cloth is take
down by cloth roller
Fig: Tricot warp knitting machine

Function of different parts of M/C:


1. Compound needle: In Tricot warp knitting m/c compound needle is used. To form loop and
produce the fabric is the main function of the needle.
2. Needle bar: A needle bar is used in this m/c. The main function of it is to hold the needles
together and helps the needles to move unison while loop forming.
3. Guide bar: Guide bar is used in this m/c to guide the yarn properly to the needle. It feeds the
yarn around the needle and controls the rate of warp feed from the warp beam by making lapping
movement.
4. Sinker and Sinker bar: In the tricot warp knitting m/c tricot sinker is used to hold down the
loops produced by the needles. The sinker bar keeps the sinkers together to move unison while
knitting. The main function of the sinker is to hold down, knock over and supporting the fabric
loops.
5. Sliding latch: In warp knitting m/c compound needles are used. A sliding latch is used here to
close the hook while knitting.
6. Sliding latch bar: In warp knitting m/c the sliding latches remain unison. The latch bar keeps
the latches together and helps it to move unison while knitting.
7. Cloth roller: The produced fabric is wound on the cloth roller.
8. Let-off mechanism: The process of releasing the warp yarns according to the requirement of
the m/c and speed of cloth roller is the main function of let-off mechanism.
9. Take up mechanism: It helps the produced fabric to wound on the cloth roller in proper
tension. There are 3 take-up r/r in this m/c. It also gives proper tension to the warp sheet and
controls the speed of warp beam.
11. Link: In the warp knitting m/c the link is used to make design in the knitted fabric. The
different links used here has different thickness and thus it helps to produce design.
12. Pattern chain: The pattern chain is the chain of links joined with each other. The pattern
chain helps the m/c to produce design.
13. Pattern drum: It is a drum, which gives motion to the pattern chain. There are groove on it
and the pattern chain is placed on it. It gets motion from the m/c driving motor through gearing.
14. Comb: In this warp knitting m/c the comb is used to separate the warp yarns coming from the
warp beam. It works as the reeds of the weaving m/c and also controls the fabric width.
15. Warp beam: In tricot warp knitting m/c warp beam is used to supply the warp yarns parallel.
There are 8-warp beam in this m/c. 4 beam are on the upper side and 4 are to the downside.
These beams are not as big as the weavers beam.
16. Machine A/C: The m/c a/c is one kind of cooling device, which keeps the m/c parts and the
motor from overheating and damage while running continuously.
17. Main shaft: The main shaft of this m/c gives the m/c motion from the motor.
18. Lubrication: The m/c has automatic lubrication system.
19. Controlling unit: The controlling unit is used to control the m/c easily. It has a digital control
unit.
20. Toothed belt: In this m/c the toothed belts are used to transfer motion without any slippage.

9. Straight bar frame knitting machine:


Straight bar frames is a specific type of machine having a vertical bar of bearded needles whose
movement is controlled by circular engineering cams attached to revolving cam-shaft in the base
of the machine? The length of the machine is divided into a number of knitting heads (‘sections’
or ‘divisions’) and each head is capable of knitting a separate but identically-dimensioned
fashion-shaped garment panel.
Fashioning Action of the Straight bar Frame Knitting Machine:
The fashioning action or loop transfer for either narrowing or widening is performed in following
steps:
a) The fashioning points or transfer needles descend and the needle bar tips backwards to clear
them.
b) The needle bar moves towards the points causing the beards of needles engaged with points to
be pressed and boxed or located in the grooves of the points.
c) The sinkers and dividers, which are collectively controlled by the catch bar, retire, and the
needles and points descend together below the knocking-over bits so that the loops are cast-off
on to the points.
d) The needles and points now rise and move clear of each other so that the points can make the
sideways 'fashion rack' at the selvedge either by one needle for widening or by one, two or four
needles for narrowing.
e) The needles and points now descend and the needles box with the points again so they receive
the transferred loops. As the needles and points descend below the sinkers, the sinkers and
dividers move forwards to hold down the loops.
f) Once the needles have slid up into the grooves of the points to receive the loops, the points rise
to their high inoperative position. The needle bar rises causing the transferred loops to slip down
on to the stems and the cam shaft is shogged back to the left again so that knitting can restart.
Fig: Knitting Action

10. Single Truck Single Jersey Circular Knitting Machine:


Different parts of this machine is given bellow:
1. Latch needle:
This type of needle has a special sliding latch with other common features. This part is used to
form loops.
2. Cams:
There are three types of cams:
a. Knit cam: T
his cam helps needle to form knit loops.
b. Tuck cam:
This cam helps needle to form tuck loops.
c. Miss cam:
This cam helps needle to form miss loops.
Yarn Path Diagram of single jersey circular knitting machine
3. Sinker:
There are three types of sinkers:
a. Loop forming sinker:
This sinker is used to sink or kink the newly laid yarn.
b. Holding down sinker:
This sinker is used to hold down the old loops.
c. Knocking-over sinker:
This sinker supports the old loop as the new loop is drawn through it.
4. Feeding unit :-
A feeder supplies yarn to needles. A positive feeder contains the following parts:
a. Knot catcher:
This part finds any fault in yarn.
b. Yarn tensioner:
This part gives proper tension to yarn for proper knitting.
(5) Timing belt/Tooth belt:
This part helps machine to stop immediately.
6. VDQ Pulley:
This part is used to control stitch length of the knitted fabric
7. Cylinder:
This frame contains needles, cams, jacks and sinkers.
8. Sinker Ring:
Sinkers are placed on the sinker cam in the sinker ring.
9. Needle Detector:
This part detects the any type of faults of needles.
10. Fabric Detector:
This part detects any fault of fabric.
11. Adjustable Fan: This part removes lint, hairy fiber from yarn and others.
12. Take up Roller:
This part is used to take up the fabric from cylinder.
13. Cloth Roller:
The final product i.e. cloth is wound on this roller.
14. Expander:
This part is used to control the width of fabric.
16. Creel:
This part is used to contain yarn packages.

11. Raschel Warp knitting machine:


Their chain links are usually numbered in even numbers, 0, 2, 4, 6 etc., generally with two links
per course. Raschel sinkers perform only the function of holding down the loops whilst the
needles rise. They are not joined together by a lead across their ends nearest to the needle bar so
they can move away clear of the needles, towards the back of the machine, for the rest of the
knitting cycle. The needle trick plate verge acts as a fabric support ledge and knock-over surface.
The fabric is drawn downwards from the needles, almost parallel to the needle bar, at an angle of
120–160 degrees, by a series of take-down rollers. This creates a high take-up tension,
particularly suitable for open fabric structures such as laces and nets.
The warp beams are arranged above the needle bar, centered over the rocker shaft, so that warp
sheets pass down to the guide bars on either side of it. The beams are placed above the machine
so that it is accessible at the front for fabric inspection and at the back for mechanical attention to
the knitting elements. The guide bars are threaded, commencing with the middle bars and
working outwards from either side of the rocker-shaft. They are numbered from the front of the
machine.

With the Raschel arrangement, there is accommodation for at least four 32-inch diameter beams
or large numbers of small diameter pattern bars. The accessibility of the raschel machine, it’s
simple knitting action, and its strong and efficient take-down tension make it particularly suitable
for the production of coarse gauge open-work structures employing pillar stitch, inlay lapping
variations and partly threaded guide bars. These are difficult to knit and hold down with the
tricot arrangement of sinkers. Additional warp threads may be supplied at the selvedges to ensure
that these needles knit fabric overlaps, otherwise a progressive press-off of loops may occur.

Fig: Raschel warp knitting machine


Fig: Knitting elements of a latch needle raschel machine

Features:
1. Raschel machines originally had a gauge expressed in needles per 2 inches (5 cm), so that,
for example a 36-gauge raschel would have eighteen needles per inch. Now, the standard E
gauge (needles per inch) is generally used.
2. There is a wide gauge range, from E1 to E32.
3. Their chain links are usually numbered in even numbers, 0, 2, 4, 6….etc.
4. Generally with two links per coarse.
5. Raschel sinkers are performing only the function of holding down the loops whilst the
needles rise.
6. Sinkers are not joined together by a lead across their ends nearest to the needle bar so they
can move away clear of the needles, towards the back of the machine, for the rest of the knitting
cycle.
7. The needle trick plate verge acts as a fabric support ledge and knock over surface.
8. The fabric is drawn downwards from the needles, almost parallel to the needle bar, at an
angle of 120-160 degrees, by a series of takedown rollers. This creates s high take-up tension,
particularly suitable for open fabric structure such as laces and nets.
9. The warp beam is arranged above the needle bar, centered over the rocker shaft, so that warp
sheet pass down to the guide bar on either side of it.
10. The beam is placed above the machines so that it is accessible at the front for fabric
inspection and at the back for mechanical attention to the knitting elements.
11. The guide bars are threaded, commencing with the middle bars and working outwards from
either side of the rocker shaft. They are numbered from the front of the machine.
12. With the raschel arrangement, there is accommodation for at least four 32-inch diameter
beams or large numbers of small diameter pattern bars.
13. The accessibility of this machine, it’s simple knitting action, and its strong and efficient take-
down tension make it particularly suitable for the production of coarse gauge open work
structures employing pillar stitch , inlay lapping Variations and partly threaded guide bars, these
are difficult to knit and hold down with the tricot arrangement of sinkers.
14. Additional warp threads may be supplied at the selvedges to ensure that these needles knit
fabric overlaps, otherwise, a progressive press off of loops may occur.

IN WEAVING
Types of Weaving Machines:
1. Winding Machine:
a. Precision Winding machine
b. Non- Precision Winding machine
2. Creeling Machine
3. Warping Machine
a. High speed Warping Machine
b. Sectional Warping Machine
4. Sizing Machine
a. Slasher Sizing Machine
b. Ball warp Sizing Machine
c. Hank sizing machine

List of Different kind of Loom:


a. Hand loom
b. Power loom
a. Hand loom
Primitive loom
Pit loom
Frame loom
Chittaranjan loom
Hatersley loom
b. Power loom
Air jet loom
Water jet loom
Rapier loom
Multiphase loom

1.Precision Winding machine:


By precision winding successive coils of yarn are laid close together in a parallel or near parallel
manner. By this process it is possible to produce very dense package with maximum amount of
yarn stored in a given volume.

Features of Precision Winding:


 Package are wound with a reciprocating traverse
 Patterning and rubbing causes damage of packages
 Package contains more yarn
 Package is less stable
 The package is hard and compact
 The package is dense
 Rate of unwinding of package is low and the process of unwinding is hard
 The unwound coil is arranged in a parallel or near parallel manner
Fig: Precision Winding machine

2. Non Precision Winding:


By this type of winding package is formed by a single thread which is laid on the package at
appreciable helix angle so that the layers cross one another and give stability to the package. The
packages formed by this type of winding are less dense but is more stable.

Features of Non Precision Winding


 Only one coil is used to make this packages
 Cross winding technique is used
 The package density is low
 Minimum number of yarn is wound
 The package formed is soft and less compact
 The stability is high
 Flanges are not required
 The rate of unwinding is high and the process is easy
 The packages formed have low density

3. Creeling Machine:
Independently of the warping system, the threads are fed from bobbins placed on creels. The
creels are simply metallic frames on which the feeding bobbins are fitted; they are equipped with
yarn tensioning devices, which in modern machines are provided with automatic control and
centralized tension variation. Moreover the creels are equipped with yarn breakage monitoring
systems. The creel capacity is the parameter on which the number of warping sections or beams
depends; it should be as high as the installation type and planning permit; the usual creel capacity
amounts today to 800-1200 bobbins. Various solutions have been designed to reduce the time
required to load the creel and thus increase the warping performance.
Warping Creel
When standard creels are used, the most cost effective solution is, provided that there is
sufficient room available, to use two creels for one and the same warping machine; in fact, while
one of the two creels is used for warping, the other creel can be creeled up again. In this case it is
advisable that the reserve creel is equipped with comb holder and that the warp threads are
already drawn through the dents of the combs. This way the loss of time caused by creel change
can be minimized.

Types of Creel:
Mobile Creel: This creel type is similar to the standard creel, but is formed by trolleys which
can be taken individually out of the creel. The bobbins are creeled up on each trolley outside the
creel. During the creeling up of a series of trolleys, the second series of trolleys is brought back
to the outside of the creel to feed the warper. This reduces considerably the waiting time. The
mobile creel comes in handy especially when there is insufficient room to permit the use of two
standard creels.

Magazine Creel: This kind of creel is used when several warps of similar type must be prepared
insequence, that is when large lots of similar yarns need to be processed. Level with each
tensioner, two bobbins are positioned: one operating and the other as reserve.

Swivel Frame Creel: This type of creel was designed as a variation of the mobile creel to enable
the creeling up of bobbins which, owing to their heavy weight (5 to 25 kg), cannot be pinned on
trolleys. Each bobbin holder is double-sided: the threads are unwound from one side, while a
new series of bobbins is creeled up on the other side.
V-shaped Creel: In this creel type, the creel boards are assembled in form of endless chains.
While warping is carried out from the outer sides using the already creeled up bobbins, the
subsequent yarn lot can be creeled up on the empty spindles positioned inside the creel. This
interior room serves at the same time as storage and bobbin exchange station. The yarn lot can be
changed by simply pushing a button, which starts the electrically drive of the chains. The empty
bobbins move towards the inside of the creel, the full bobbins towards the outside.
Fig: Warping Creel

4. High Speed Warping Machine:


High speed warping also called Beam warping/Direct warping. In high speed warping the yarn is
wound parallel on the warping beam. All the yarns are wound at once and simple flanged beam
is used. It is a very high speed process and is used for making fabric of single color.

Features of High Speed Warping


 It is used to make common fabrics in large quantities
 It is used to produce weavers beam from single yarn
 The production is high
 Large amount of yarn is required to produce a weavers beam
 Sizing is done
 Simple flanged beam is used and drums are not required

5. Sectional Warping Machine:


In sectional warping equal length of yarn is first wound in small sections or sheets on a drum.
Then from the drum it is transferred to the beam. By this process we directly get the weavers
beam. This is a two stage method and is used for making fancy fabrics.

Flow Chart of Sectional Warping:

Creel

Drum

Beam (Weaver’s Beam)

Working Principle of Sectional Warping:


 Sectional warping is used for short runs especially for fancy pattern fabrics.
 In this case sections of the warp which may contain up to 1000 ends are first wound onto
a drum tapered with a given cone angle.
 So cross wound sections are combined on the drum & thus each layer of warp contains
the same number of ends on the drum.
 Then the warp threads altogether are transferred onto a weavers beam by unwinding the
drum.
 In this method the warp threads are not necessarily processed in sizing.

Fig: Sectional warping

Features of Sectional Warping


 This is suitable for making checked, stripped or other fancy fabric.
 We directly obtain weaver’s beam from this process
 As sizing is not done, so multi-ply yarns or yarns which do not require sizing are used
 Small amount of yarn is required to produce the weaver’s beam
 Sectional warping is used to produce a warp beam with a greater member if ends
 The production is less in sectional warping
 The yarn tension is less uniform
 It is less efficient than high speed warping
6. Slasher Sizing Machine:
This method is universally adopted and is
suitable for large scale operations. In this
method a number of warp yarns as per
requirement, is assembled in the form of a
continuous sheet, sized and then wound onto a weaver’s beam. These operations are supported
by auxiliary operations such as separation of ends, measuring warp length, marking into cut
lengths and winding the warp of equal length to form the warp of the fabric. All these operations
are performed by the slasher or tape sizing machine.
The slasher sizing machines are classified according to the method of drying. Accordingly there
are three types, namely –
 Cylinder drying: Twin and multi-cylinder type.
 Hot air drying.
 Electrical drying.
The first method is based on the principle of conduction and is widely used in industry. Twin
cylinders were used for drying of sized warp in the conventional machines. Later multi cylinders
have been used and are commonly prevalent nowadays. The second method is based on the
principle of convection, and the third method is based on the principle of radiation.

Passage of Material Through A Slasher Machine:


The general passage of warp through a two cylinder slasher sizing machine is shown in the
following fig:

Slasher sizing machine

The yarn from the warper’s beams usually containing about 500-800 warp ends, are made to pass
into a size box through a guide roller. The warper’s beams also known as the back beams are
placed in a stand called creel. The number of warper beams depends upon the total number of
ends required in the cloth or weaver’s beam. The warp from rear beams pass over and under the
successive back beams. The warp sheet emerging from the back beams enters a size box that is
kept heated by constant supply of steam through pipes. The warp sheet is made to go under a
partially immersed immersion roller, and then passes between the nips of the size and squeeze
roller. The squeeze roller impregnates the size into the yarn structure and also removes external
excess size at the same time drags the warp sheet through the paste.
The wet size yarn then enters the drying zone comprising of either two or multi-cylinders or hot
air chamber. The sized yarn is dried here. The residence time of the sized warp in the drying
zone is regulated in such a way so as to avoid over drying. All the cylinders are steam heated
except the last one, which is kept cool by supply of cold water. This is done so as to cool the
warp sheet when it leaves the drying zone.
The sheet of warp yarns after leaving the drying zone is then split into as many sections or layers
as there are beams in the creel. This is done by means of lease rods or split rods. The purpose is
to eliminate stickiness of neighboring warp threads. The split warp threads are then recombined
and then made to pass through an ‘expanding or zig zag’ reed or comb. This comb regulates the
width of the warp sheet to the required dimensions. The warp is then made to pass between the
nips of a drag roller’, and is finally wound on a beam called ‘weaver or sizers’ beam. In short,
the entire slasher machine can be divided into three important zones, namely –
 Creel and size box forming the rear or back side of the machine.
 Drying arrangement forming the middle zone of the machine and
 Front zone or head stock consisting of weaver’s beam, and various controls.

7. Ball Warping:
The main object of ball warping is to prepare log for the rope dyeing machine. Here magazine
type of creels is used for the Creeling of yarns in the form of cheese. The no. of ends taken one
as per requirement of further processes that is for preparing the weavers beam .According to no.
of ends in each group, the respective Creeling is done to make the required no. of logs to be used
at the Creeling zone of rope dyeing machine.
Length of rope on log is generally 12830 m, the sheet of yarns passes through the lese reed
where lease are inserted, these facilities denting the long the chain beaming. Lease are inserted at
regular intervals which can set automatically on the machine .generally after every 100mts, lease
is inserted .lease also help in yarn separation after sizing.

Passage

Creel

Tensioner

Stop motion

Vacuum reed

Pot eye

Broken end detector

Lease stand

Machine head

Faults of Ball Warping


 Spinning faults
 Weak places
 Soft end
 Slub
 Weak piecing
 Packing fault
 Bad winding
 Slough off
 Extra yarn
 Cut yarn
 Entanglement

8. Hand Loom:
It is still not certain when the weaving process was introduced to human society. It is clear from
many historical records that weaving originated long before the time of Jesus Christ. In England
the major shift from agriculture to woolen industry came in the 14th century.

Earlier version of power loom was run by two men. After the steam engine and cast iron in early
1800, great attention was paid to increasing productivity of the machine. To help achieve the
increase in productivity, William Radcliffe patented a dressing frame in 1803 for sizing and
drying the warp threads prior to winding on to a weavers beam.

Figure: Conventional loom

9. Shuttle Loom with Features:


The shuttle loom is the oldest type of weaving loom which uses a shuttle which contains a
bobbin of filling yarn that appears through a hole situated in the side. The shuttle is batted across
the loom and during this process, it leaves a trail of the filling at the rate of about 110 to 225
picks per minute (ppm). Although very effective and versatile, the shuttle looms are slow and
noisy. Also the shuttle sometimes leads to abrasion on the warp yarns and at other times causes
thread breaks. As a result the machine has to be stopped for tying the broken yarns.
Salient Feature of Shuttle less Looms:
 Shuttle less weave 2 to 4 times as much as conventional looms per unit time.
 The cost of pirn winding is eliminated
 Strain upon the warp threads is reduced due to smaller depth of shed
 Heavy cost of repairs and replenishment of worn out parts is reduced. They can produce
simpler tubes of fabrics on a large scale and provide opportunities for profitable
exploitation in the long run.
 The physical and mental strain upon the weaver is reduced
 There is no risk of shuttle fly out owing to the absence of conventional shuttle and
packing being positive
 Quality of the fabric gets enhanced because of a positive control over the weaving
process
 The looms are easier to work and manipulate
 Efficiency of the shuttle weaving shed is comparatively higher5% reduction in value loss
for a Rs. 60/- Meter fabric would ensure an additional profit of Rs. 3/- meter
 Higher production per loom
 Speed is not the only criterion for the selection of shuttle less looms. Efficiency is also an
important criterion. Efficiency advantage of 10-15% due to shuttle changes, Un weaving
of damages, reduced time for warp changes canbe obtained from shuttleless looms. 5%
higher efficiency would provide an additional profit of Rs. 1/- per metre.
 14 minutes stoppage per 24 hours.
 Ex works cost is less due to less mending and inspection charges and no pirn winding
charges.
 Projectile and Air-jet looms suitable for Mass fabrics Rapier for fashion fabrics

Modern Looms:
Modern looms still weave by repeating in sequence the operations of shedding, picking, and
beating in, but within that framework there has been considerable development during the 20th
century. Several new types of loom have come into industrial use, whereas older types have been
refined and their scope extended. Two main influences have been the rising cost of labour and
the increasing use of man-made continuous- filament yarns.

Projectile Loom:
Sulzer brothers, Winterthur, Switzerland, Who are pioneer in the field of projectile method of
weft insertion, have been able to convert a brilliant concept Roshman into a viable commercial
weaving machine. It is introduced in the market in 1953.The main feature of this machine is weft
insertion system. A bullet like shuttle 90 mm long & weighting about 40 g, technically named as
gripper projectile is used here to insert the weft thread into the warp threads.
Figure: Projectile loom

Main Features of Projectile Loom:


 The picking are projectile receiving units are separated from the moving sley. The sley
carries the reed & gripper guides.
 The gripper projectile made of fine steel, 90 mm long 14mm wide and 6 mm thickness
weight is 40 g. It carries the weft thread into the warp shed.
 The weft is drawn directly from a large stationary cross wound package. There is no weft
winding.
 The gripper projectile is picked across the warp shed at a very high speed ,the picking
energy being derived from the energy stored in a metal torsion bar which is twisted at
predetermined amount of released to give the projectile a high rate of acceleration .
 Picking always takes place from one side, but several projectiles are employed and all of
them return to the picking side by a conveyor chain located underneath the warp shed.
 During its flight through the shed the projectile runs in a rake likes steel guides, so that
the warp threads are touched neither by the projectile nor weft thread.
 Every pick is cut off at the picking side near the selvedge after weft insertion, leaving a
length about 15 mm from the edge. Similar length of weft also projects from the selvedge
on the receiving side.
 The ends of weft thread projecting on both sides of the cloth are tucked into the next shed
by means of special tucking device and woven in with next pick, thus providing firm
selvedges.
 The reed is not reciprocated as in a shuttle loom, but rocked about its axis by a pair of
cams.
 The reed & projectile guides are stationary during pick insertion.
 The sley which carries the reed & projectile guides is moved forward & backward
through a saddle carrying two follower bowls, which bear against the surface of two
matched cams.
 A sley dwell of 25 degree at back center enables the projectile to travel through the warp
shed without being unnecessary reciprocated by the sley.
 Whenever the reed width is reduced for weaving a small width cloth from the standard
reed width, the projectile receiving unit is moved inward on the telescope shaft, to the
new selvedge position, and so the projectile travel distance is reduced.
 Smaller shed opening because of the smaller size projectile. This might result in lower
warp breakage rate.
 Weft insertion rate up to 900-1500 m/min is possible depending up to the width of the
weaving machine.
 The color changing mechanism is less complicated.
 In case of weft breakage the take up beam & heald frames can be driven in reverse by a
pick finding mechanism

Advantages of Projectile Loom as a Modern Loom:


1. Two or three cloths can be woven simultaneously.
2. It is possible to achieve weaving performances with breakage rate per square meter of cloth.
50% of the number of breaks that would occur on a conventional loom.
3. The lower warp breakage rate in a projectile weaving machine may be due to:
 Smaller warp shed
 Reed with higher ratio of air to wire (70:30)
Beat up line being nearer to the centre of the reed between the two baulks.
Smaller warp shed will reduce the warp threads tension to some extent. However care should be
taken to maintain uniform tension to ensure that the warp shed is of same depth from one end to
another. Otherwise a few slack warp threads at the top shed will result in stitching and end cut of
the projectile.
4. Since the projectile is passing through guides there is no reed to projectile or projectile to yarn
contact.
5. With the introduction of four/six colors weaving machine all the mechanical problems of the
conventional pick & pick multicolored loom are eliminated.

Rapier Loom:
Insertion of weft by rapier is a mechanically modern & refined version of the primitive method
of fabric production in which the weft was secured in a slot of a stick. At present version of the
gripper head which are attached to rapiers which are flexible tapes or rigid rods. Mr. John Gabler
can be regarded as the father of modern rapier technology he has built a rapier device on a cotton
weaving machine in 1922.

Scope of Rapier:
 Single rapier loom can insert weft only on alternate rapier traverse.
 In many cases this is modified to achieve a higher rapier velocity in the early and late
parts of the movement and thus a over maximum velocity halfway through the
movement.
 Due to high rate of insertion the possibility of yarn breakages rate may increase.
 Additionally, it is necessary to control the weft by passing it trough an effective tension
arrangement so that the weaving tension will be more uniform, this can also occurred
weft break.

Features of Rapier Loom:


 An useful feature of rigid rapiers is that they can be simultaneously inserted in two sheds
one above the other, for producing double plush and certain carpets.
 Rapier loom may have various types according to the weft insertion mechanism &
number of pick such as insertion of double pick, insertion of single pick, two phase rapier
etc.
 In all rapier looms to-and-fro-movement of the rapiers is derived initially either from a
linkage mechanism or from a cam. The use of linkage mechanism has the advantages of
simplicity reliability & is cheap, quite and consumers less energy than a cam mechanism
but it does not provide any dwell to the rapiers.
 The only two phase rapier in commercial operation is the saurer of width 2 x 185 cm or 2
x 220 cm having weft insertion rate is about 1200 mpm.
 The rigid rapier is driven from the centre and has a rapier head at each end.In one cycle
of 360 degree the rapier inserts one pick alternately in the right hand and the left hand
fabrics, the picks being inserted and beaten up in opposite phase .
 In gabler system of weft insertion the rapier system is combined with air jet picking
system.

Rapier Loom
Integrating the features of rapier looms of Model SJ758 and other imported and domestic rapier
looms, Model SJ736-III rapier loom is specially designed for weaving of light, medium and
heavy fabrics and check designs, it adopts automatic pick finder and electronic color selector.

Features of Rapier Loom:


Control panel:
The loom is controlled by the control panel with a micro-computer, the lcd display provides a
very user-friendly human-machine interface, which shows the production statistic data of each
shift and provides the weft color programming function.

Weft color selection:


The machine adopts electronic color selector up to 8 colors, and the color selection pattern is
programmed directly on the machine control panel.

Wefting:
Wefting mechanism adopts 6-lever wefting structure and can ensure the adjustment of the rapier
entry and exit time and ensure stable wefting and insertion motion. This machine adopts 4 levers,
short connectors and short sley to complete the beating motion, the rock shaft adopts 110mm
(diameter) seamless tube to ensure the beating strength and can be suitable for high-speed motion
and weaving of heavy and high density fabrics. The rapier transmission box adopts the advanced
helix umbrella gears to ensure stable transmission. The tension device adopts 3-rear-beam
tension structure, which is specially designed for balancing the warp tension of high-density
weaving and can improve the quality of the weaving fabrics.
Pick finding mechanism:
The machine adopts electronic let-off mechanism with a high-accuracy step motor and the
optimized mechanical take-up system for stable and accurate pick finding motion. The pick
finding motion is very stable and proved to be very successful and reliable.
The adoption of two pressing rollers on the fabric winding roller enables the worker to unload
the fabric from the fabric roller without stop. The frequent adoption of bearings for the major
moving parts provides better performance and easier maintenance.

Advantages of Rapier Loom: Over Conventional Loom:


 The rapier loom doesn’t require dynamic forces or anything like the magnitude as those
involved in the conventional loom.
 The weft insertion rate in a rapier loom is very much influenced by the method of weft
control.
 Weft insertion rate is very high rather than any conventional loom
 It can occur double pick at a time by double picking insertion system. Here is no need to
cut the weft selvedges and no weft wastage.
 Weft insertion rate is very high rather than any conventional loom Rigid rapiers has a
useful features that they can be simultaneously inserted in two sheds one above the
other ,for producing double plush and certain carpets.
 Looms that use rigid rapiers eliminate entirely the need to assist the rapier head through
the warp shed, this is a un doubted advantages.

Air Jet Loom:


Weft insertion by means of air jet has made a major breakthrough in the early 70s and its
importance is increasing further because of its ability to weave a wide range of fabrics at a very
high speed weft insertion rate of about 2000 mm. The first attempt to use a compressed air steam
instead of shuttle is made by Brooks in 1914.

Scope of Air Jet Loom:


 To insert the weft threads here used compressed air.
 Not suitable for the coarser count or heavier fabric.
 The timing of jet activity should be controlled in such a way that the main nozzle is
supplied with compressed air from the beginning of the weft insertion phase and the relay
nozzles also receive compressed air.
 High maintenances is needed.

Features of Air Jet Loom:


 Air jet weaving machine is high speed machine having good quality
 For instance on a weaving machine having a speed of 600 rpm the weaving cycle is
100m/s.
 Cam control valves have the advantages of high speed precision of action whilst the
electrically controlled solenoid valves permit easy setting.
 Finer count of yarn is used as the weft thread to produce fancy type of fabric.

Figure: Air jet loom

Advantages of Air Jet Loom Over Conventional Loom:


 The conventional loom requires shuttle or shuttle like substance to insert the weft yarn,
comparatively in air jet loom there is no need to any kind of shuttle instead of shuttle here
the compressed air force is used.
 In the conventional loom the pick insertion rate is very low compare to the air jet loom.
 The weft stop motion is machine controlled over the differ from conventional loom
 In conventional loom the mechanical or hand shuttle reach the weft thread to the fell of
the cloth, but in air jet through air force this is done, here uniform let up, take up, uniform
picking, uniform bet up is possible.
 It has the automatic weft repair device.

Water Jet Loom:


The first loom to make use of a water jet for insertion of weft was developed by Satyr.The loom
was first shown at the Brussels textile Machinery Exhibition in 1995.
Scope of Water Jet Loom:
 Weft and warp yarn must be insensitive .i.e hydrophobic in nature.
 Weaving of the water attractive fabric is not possible by the water jet loom,
 Thermoplastic yarns offer the advantages of severance of weft by a heated blade and the
provision of a heat selvedge by fusing.
 It has required miniature pump to feed water under pressure to the nozzle.

Water Jet Loom Advantages:


 Water jet propulsion has many advantages over other forms of marine propulsion, such as
stern drives, outboard motors, shafted propellers and surface drives. These advantages
include...
 Excellent Maneuverability
 Precise steering control at all boat speeds
 "Zero Speed" steering effect provides 360° thrusting ability for docking and holding
stationary.
 Sideways movement possible with multiple jet installations.
 High efficiency astern thrust with "power-braking" ability at speed
 High Efficiency
 Propulsive coefficients as good or higher than the best propeller systems achievable at
medium to high planning speeds
 Flexibility when using multiple water jets may allow operators to continue to operate
efficiently on fewer drives
 Low Drag and Shallow Draught
 Absence of underwater appendages reduces hull resistance
 Shallow draught - the water jet intake is flush with hull bottom to allow access to shallow
water areas and beach landings with no risk of damage to the drive
 Low Maintenance
 No protruding propulsion gear eliminates impact damage or snags
 Minimum downtime and simple maintenance routines
 Smooth and Quiet
 No hull vibration, no torque effect and no high speed cavitations gives maximum comfort
levels on board
 Low underwater acoustic signature
 Total Safety
 No exposed propeller for complete safety around people in the water and marine life
 Maximum Engine Life
 Jet unit impeller is finely matched to engine power
 Power absorption is the same regardless of boat speed
 No possibility of engine overload under any conditions
 Simplicity
 Single packaged module
 No heavy and expensive gearbox required for many installations. Simple driveline from
engine to jet coupling
 Easy installation
 Complete factory tested package, ready to bolt in
 No difficult engine alignment problems.
 Comments on Water Jet:
 Water jet loom is produce shed by using the high force of water. In the weaving I think
that is a tremendous invention.
Multiphase Loom:
The phase number of a loom is defined as the average number of shuttles or weft carriers
inserting weft simultaneously. It is shown that existing multi-phase looms must have high phase
numbers to compensate for their low shuttle velocity. The analysis suggests that looms with
high-velocity flying shuttles would achieve equally high weft-insertion rates with moderate
increases in the phase number. Such moderate increases in the phase number can be obtained by
dividing the shedding and beat-up motions into a comparatively small number of sections. The
suggested alternative would avoid many of the textile and engineering problems arising in
existing multi-phase looms.

Figure: Multiphase loom

Features of Multiphase Loom:


A multi-phase loom with magnetic shuttle features that the spiral reed blade with shuttle path is
used for beating-up.
The linear motor is used for wefting, the heald wheel or electromagnetically excited heald needle
is used for opening, and the weft opening with off-line multi-path asynchronous weft
replenishing is used.
Its advantages include high efficiency, high speed and low weaving cost.
The multiphase loom can form many different sheds at different places, thereby enabling
insertion of number of filling yarns, one behind the other.
Advantages of Multiphase Loom Over Conventional Loom:
 An analysis of the factors determining the weft-insertion rate of weaving machines shows
that these factors are essentially the same on all looms in which shuttles or weft carriers
are used, such as conventional shuttle looms, gripper- shuttle looms, and multi-phase
looms.
 Its advantages include high efficiency, high speed and low weaving cost.
 The multiphase loom can form many different sheds at different places, thereby enabling
insertion of number of filling yarns, one behind the other.

Conclusion:
The textile industry uses a wide variety of machines to sew fabrics and make clothes, carpets and
other textile goods that we use every day. These machines range greatly in size, from massive
heavy-duty industrial machines used almost solely in major textile factories, to small consumer-
sized sewing machines, which are useful in both factories and in people's homes for their own
personal projects. The textile industry uses an extensive number and make of machines to make
clothes and other textile products that are made available in the market and that we use on a daily
basis. These pieces of equipment greatly vary in size –from massive heavy-duty industrial
machines that are generally used in major textile factories, to small consumer-sized sewing
machines that are vital to both factories as well as in most households.
Although a number of different merchandise are produced by textile industries, cotton is still the
most important natural fibre that they make, hence the types of machines found in the textile
industry are usually intended for processes that fabricate cotton-based fabrics. These textile
machines execute different operations at various stages of the production, such as yarn spinning,
weaving, knitting, sewing as well as dyeing. However, not all of these machines are required for
each of the production line within the manufacturing site. Other machines are used to create
specific fabric effects like embossing, bleaching and mercerizing (a process employed for
cellulosic material, normally cotton threads, to make the cotton stronger and shimmer).

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