Subject Index

abrasives 93 bioengineering methods 48,87

absorption, percutaneous see penetration, biological ela~ticity 202
percutaneous biophysical methods see bioengineering
acne methods
cosmetica 269 black light fluorescence photography as
pathogenesiS 268 bone marrow test, genotoxicity 299
active ingredient, quasi drug 42 broadcast and print companies, standards for
advertising,comparative 12 cosmetic advertising 17
AFM see atomic force microscopy bronzers 135
agar dilution tests 145 bulk modulus 198
ambient temperature and humidity 108
androgens 82,271 candida albicans-inhibition test 259
animal e~periments 248 capacitance 59,203
ban on 26·30 carcinogenesis 117
anisotropy of skin 198 cellulite
anti-cellulite products definition 167
evalualionof 167-174 noninvasive techniques to evaluate 169
study design 171 pathogenesis 168
antidandruffproducts,evalu3tion of 140-]55 stages 168
antimicrobials ccramidcs laa
claims 288 challenge tests
cosmetics and toiletries 287 preservative efficacy 283
efficacy 275-290 species used for 283
evaluation of 275-290 chamber test, for contact urticaria 245
hand washing products 289 chloracne 268·269
antioxidants 128 Chromameter 95
antiperspirants cidopirox olaminc 149
definition 107 claim support, eXf't'rt analysis 222
efficacy, gravimetric method 108-\09 claim, consumer interpretation of 10
evaluation of 107-] IS cleansing 67
antiseptics, efficacy testing 289 efficacy of 95,97
application, new cosmetics and quasi drugs, clinical assessment, photodocumentation 84
Japan 44 clinical sensory evaluation 114
atomic force microscopy 184 clotrimazole 147,149
atopic skin 224 coal tar 149, lSI
Australian/New Zealand guideline for cohesion,intercellular 187
sunscreens 125-126 COUPA 119·121,127
axiUae, examinations of IlO colorimetry 121,124,247
comedo 269-270
bacterial gene mutation assay 292 comedogenesis 268·274
ballislOmetry 199 comedolysis 273
barrier creams 156·166 conductance 108
efficacy in nickel contact allergy 161 Congress of Florence 33
field trials 166 connective ti~sue damage lIt
guinea pig model 158 contact dermatitis 138
barrierfunction of skin 101, 187-188, 194 allergic 192,217,224,227
bending properties of skin 177 irritant 192. 217
benzoyl peroxide 149 contact urticaria
bifonazole 147 nonimmunologic 242
3" Subjwindew

syndrome 241-249 Measurements on Cosmetic and other

lest methods 245-246 Topical Products
visual scoring of 246 efficacy tes ting in humans 51
comt'oeyle surface area 187 elastic deformation 202
Corneometer 60 elastic deformation recovery 202
cornification, abnormal 268-269 elastic function 202
corticosteroids 149,153 elastic modulus (Young's modulus) 198
cosmeceuticals 46 elasticity 64, 95,203
cosmetic category, Europe 27 electrical properties, epidermis 59
cosmetic intolerance 217 elevation testing 199
cosmetic product endpoints, human studies 52
definition of, EU 23 -24 environmental conditions, evaluation of
definition of, Japan 40-42 hydration 66
definition of, US 5-9 erythema
Cosmetic. Toiletry and Fragrance Association 24 "ab igne" 124
cosmetics, types, Japan 41-42 peeling 95
council of better business bureaus <I ethical review commitu 51,53
cross-polarized light photography 85 ethios, testing of cosmetics 50-54
CTFA see Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance ethnic groups 187
Association Europe
Curometer 64,200-202 legal situation ot daim support 20-35
cy togenetic assays 293 European cosmetics directive 22-34,107
European Group for Efficacy Measurements on
dandruff 140 Cosmetic and other Topical Products 32
clinical trials 147 eva pori meter 63
Declaration 01 Helsinki, Wond Medical exaggerated use tests 73
Association Sl extensibility 202
defauing of wool yarn, cleanser effica<;y assay 95 extensometer 64
deformation variables 200
dendritic cells, in vitro prediction of sensitization Fair Packaging and Labelling Act 3

'"
deodorants
claims 114
false advertising claim 10,14
FDA see food and drug administration
FDGAct see Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act
definition 107 Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act 3
evaluation of 107-\15 Federal Mail Fraud Act 17
Dermaflex A 643200 Federal Trade Commission 3-9
Dermal Torque Meter 63,200 criteria for action 10
Dermalab 64 fibroblasts-indol-red-uptake test 259
Dermanalyser 62 Hex wash test 98,104-105
dermatitis, actinic 252 flexibility 198
Dermolab 62 fluconazole 146,148
desquamation 187-188 focus groups, consumers 83
DHA see dihydroxyacetone Food and DrugAdministration 4-9,125-126
Diffey method 123 formaldehyde resistance, enterobacteriaceae
dihydroxyacetone 135-137 281
Direction Gtnera\e de la Concurrence ct de la fragrances 226-240
Repression des Fraudes 31 free radicals 252
distensibility 172,201,203 scavengers 128
di thranol 150 friction, hair parameter 178,182
drug, definition of, US 5 FTC see Federal Trade Commission
dry skin 57
DTM see dermal torque meter gas-bearing eleClrodynamometer 199
D-values, antimicrobial efficacy 286 genotoxicity 291,302
dye test, efficacy of barrier creams 160, 163 assays, in vivo animal 293
dynamic elect rokinetic and permeability good clinical practice 52
analysis 184
dynamic mechanical ana lyser 184 hair
alkali solubility 161
EEMCQ see European Group for Efficacy chemical properties 180
Subject Index 3"

optical properties 178 isotope disappeuance measurement technique

spectroscopic properties 179 156
body 182 itraconazole 146,148
color 178
combability 182 Japan Cosmetic Industry Association 43,46
cosmetics, analysis, amino-acid and Japan, legal situation of claim support 36-49
protein 180 ICIA see Japan Cosmetic Industry Association
cosmetics, evaluation of 175-186
cosmetics, fiber assemblies 161 ketoconazole 146,148-149
luster 178
hand disinfectants 289 labeling requirements, Europe 24-25
hand washing test 100 Langer's Lines 198
hormones 9 Lanham act 3, 13-14
hot room, antiperspirant efficacy \08-109 laser doppler Howmetry 169, 172-173,247
human comedogenic assays 272 laser profilometry 97-98
human studies, ethics 50-54 lather, cleansers 93
hydrating effect, multiple application test 71 lawsuits 13
hydration 203 leva rometry 199
bioengineering methods 55-66 light microscopy 183
clinical evaluation 58 light penetration into skin 189,194
evaluation of 57-80 light source, SPF testing 118
studies, age of subjects 66 lipodystrophy see cellulite
studies, guidelines 66-68 li thium succinate 149,152
hygrometry \08 LLNA see local lymph node assay
hypoallergenicity 9,217-221 load-extension curve 176
hypopigmentation 193 local lymph node assay 263
hysteresis 203 low enforcement efficiency 12
LTT see iymphocyte transformation test
IFRA see International Fragrance Association lymphocyte transformation test 228-229,231-232
immediate erythema 124
immediate pigment darkening 123 Mail Fraud Act 3
immediate tanning 116 Malassezia dermatitis, experimental 146
immunologic contact urticaria 243 Malassezia furfur 141-144,146-148,150-152,154
impedance 59, 108 immune response to 144
impedance, multifrequency electrical 62 marketing claims 51
In vitro materiality II
activity of noles 145 mattress peel 167
biomechanicaltesting 197-208 mechanical properties 170
measurement of the SPF 121 MED see minimal erythemal dose
microbiological evaluations 114 metabolism in fragrance allergy 235
penetration test 163-164 metabolism, exogenous 292
test systems for phototox.icity 259 miconazole 147
INCI see International Nomenclature of microbial adulteration of cosmetics 276-277
Cosmetic Ingredients microbial risk factors for human health by
indcntometry 199 cosmetics 276
informed consent 53 microbiological properties of cosmetics 275
infrared microbiological purity 27
radiation 116 microcomedo 268-270
protection 124 microdilu tion susceptibility teSling 146
ingredient microscopy 183
labeling 24-25 confocal 184
highlighting of 8 migration inhibition assay 228
inoculum, preservative testing 283-284 minimal erythemal dose 120- 121
intended usc ot a product 5 evaluation,colorimetric 121
International Fragrance Association 226 minimal risk 52
International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ministry of Health and Welfare, Japan 36
Ingredients 24 model dirt 95-96
in-use tests 286 moisturizers 57-58,137
irradiation,UV 251-252 application of 67
3" Subject Inde~

moschus ambrelle 258 quasi drugs

mutagenicity 291-307 definition,Japan 36-39
tesling 304 effects 37-40
questionaires 83
NAD see Nationa! Advertising Division
natamyeine 150 rabbit ear model 272
National Advertising Division, Council Of Beuer racial differences in skin function 167
Business Bureaus 4,15-16 radiation,visible light 116
new drug application 6 radical compression technique 182
Nova dermal phase meter 60 Raman spectroscopy 179
nudear magnetic resonance imaging 64 red blond cell test 99
nutrient benefit 9 reductives 93
reflection optometry 209
oil acne 269 regulatory letters 7
oily skin relative elastic recovery 202
definition 81 repeated insult patch test 138,220
evaluation of 81-91 repetitive irritation tes t 159
open test, com act urticaria 245 Research Institute of Fragrance Materials 226
Oplo thermal emission spectroscopy 62 resilient distention 201
orange peel 167 resistance, electrical 59
OTCdrugs 6,138,287-288 resistance, microbial, to preservatives 281
ring technique 182
Paramecia aurelia-lethality Itst 259 roughness 95
patch testing 7),99,222,224,228
penetration, percutaneous 157,159,165,190 safety
persistent pigment darkening (PPD) 123 clauses, EU 28
PHA -induced lymphocyte proliferation 231 finished product,evaluation of, EU 26-27
pharmaceutical affairs law 36 inSpector, EU 28
photo hen's egg test 259-260 of cosmetics, Japan 48
photoageing 129 of self-tanners 138
photoallergic reactions 251-252 salicylic acid 149,153
photo-basophils-histamin-releasing test 259 scaling, skin surface 65
photochemolysis-test 259 scanning electron microscopy 184
photoirritation 251 seborrhoic dermatitis 141
photomutagenfcity 294,296 sebum 81,270-271
photoonycholysis 254 excretion rate 81-82
photopatch test 255-156 measuremenlS 88
photoprotectants 117 output 82
photo reactions 251-267 sebumeter 88
photosensitizers 252-253,255,257 sebutape 89
photostability 127 selenium disulfide 146, 149-]50
phototoxic protection factor 123 sch-tanning lotions, evaluation of 135-139
phototoxicity 251 -253 sensitive skin 139,224
pigmentation 192 panels 222-225
Pityrosporum ovale see Malassezia furfur diabetic 223
plasti2.ation 203 sensory irritatio n 192,217,220
plicomctry 170 shear modulus 198
pomade acnc 193 short time hydrating effect, single application
predictive sensitisation tcst 53 test 69
predictive testing 2 19,259 silicon replicas 105
preservation of cosmetics 278-279 Singlet oxygen species 252
defini tion of efficacy 280 site selection, co nt act urticaria studies 244
efficacy testing of 282 skin
temporary 279 biomechanics 198
procoagulant assay 228 conductance 19 1
product dossier, EU 26-27,30-32 elastic modu l us 191
profilometry IOJ extensibility 191
proof ot efficacy, EU legislation 30-32 gloss metry 209-214
protective creams see barrier creams oiliness control studies 89
Subject Index
'"
permeability 188 Tariff Act of 1930 17
recovery 191 t-cell cloning 233
sites 67 tensile properlies 176
softness 203 terbinafine 158
stiffness 201 tetrachlorosalicylanilide 258
su rface hygrometer, Skicon-200 61 Tewameter 63
type 120,137,189,192 TEWL see Iransepidermal water loss
washing machine 95-97,101 thermography 108,170
sodium laureth sulfate 103 thigh circumference measurement, evaluation of
sodium lauryl sulfate 92, 100, 103-104 anti -cellulite products 171 -172
solar radiation 116 tioconazole 147
solvents 93 topography Ot the skin surface 64-85,198
spectroscopy, infrared 62 torsional properties of skin 177
SPF see sun protection factor torsional testing devices 199
standards of support for advertising 12 transepidermal water loss 57,63,97,99,101,
starch -iodine 108 188,190-192
state laws for (osmetic advertising 14 transferability 281
statements, false or misleading 4 transgenic rodents 300
static charge 183
steaming potential 184 ultracleansers 93
stinging 192 ultrasound 169,172,248
strain 198 ultraviolet! radiations 116
stress-strain relationship 198,201 unfair methods of competition 10
stretching methods 199 unfair or deceptive acts or practices 10
structure-activity relationships 301 United States, legal situalion of claim
style retention 183 substantiation 1-19
subculture 285 ur ticaria 220,227
subject selection 244 use lest 31,45,74,220,222,245
subje<:tive irritation 192 UVlight
subjects, antiperspirant study 110 UVA 116- ll7,124
substantivity 125,126 UVA erythema 123
suction 199-201,205 UVA prolection 122-123,126
sun protection factor 118-121,123126,138 UVB 116
FDA guideline 125 UVB transmission 189
sunburn ll6,253 UV-dependent lymph node assay 263
sunlight 116
video imaging system 87
sunscreens
definition 117 viscoelastic creep 202
efficacy 138 visco-elasticity
skin properties 63-64
evaluation of 116-134
water,sweat resistance 125 ratio 202
supercontraction 180 visible light photography 85
surfactants 93-94 wash tests, model cleansers 100
suspension tests, antimicrobials 289 washes, supervised I I I
sweat washing raw ma terials 94
collection 111-ll2 washing,repeti tive 92
production 107 water content, skin 57,95
sweating wave propagation 199
emotional 108 Wood's light 136
induction of 108
sweat-stimulation 112 Young's modulus 201
swelling 180
synthetic 226 l'inc pyrithione 146,149-150