Addis Ababa Science and Technology University

Collage of Electrical and Mechanical Engineering

Department of Manufacturing Engineering

(Footwear and Leather Goods Technology Stream)

Project Title: - Wastage Management in Zemen shoe factory

Internship report @ Hosting Company (Zemen shoe plc.)

Prepared by:

Name ………………………………………………………………ID

Abreham Birhanu…………………………………………0059 /08

Betelihem Guade……………………………………………0204/08
Ermias Adane …………………………….………………0382/08
Tolera Abera .…………………………………………1113/08

Advisor:

Ms. Tsehaynesh (academic)

Mr. Solomon Kasa (company)

June 18, 2019

 Acknowledgment
First, of all we would like to give a great praise to our God for helping us to do our project. Next,
we are thankful for our university to give a chance for internship period to develop our technical
and practical skills.

Then, we are glad to give thanks to Zemen shoe factory owner for giving us the opportunity and
we would like to thanks to all Zemen shoe factory worker for sharing their skills.

Finally, we would like to give special thanks to our company advisor Mr. Solomon Kasa for his
appreciation and willingness to help us, and also thanks to our academic advisor Ms.
Tsehaynesh.

AASTU LIDI
I
 Executive summary
Our project is focused on the internship period at Zemen shoe factory held from February to Jun.
this internship program gave us a chance to look at the work and gain different types of practical
experience in construction of shoes and bags. We learned so many practical skills and it gave us
a chance to prepare our self to know and understand what will await us when we graduate.

In addition to this, we have been studying how to improve the wastage management system of
the factory as a minor project. Now days, to be com-putative and profitable, the company should
decrease wastage.

Wastage is an excess or useless resource which increases production cost. In small scale industry
it is impossible/difficult to build zero wastage system but possible to approximate it using
proactive and reactive methods.

At the end of the project, the papers address that the way of improving quality of shoe,
minimizing wastage and inventory management through different techniques.

AASTU LIDI
II
Contents
Acknowledgment ........................................................................................................................................... I
Executive summary ....................................................................................................................................... II
Chapter one: Internship overview, Experience Gained, knowledge & skill .................................................. 1
1.1. Introduction and Company Profile................................................................................................ 1
1.1.1 Introduction .......................................................................................................................... 1
1.1.2 Company Profile .................................................................................................................... 1
1.1.3 Over view of Zemen shoe factory’s Raw Material Used ....................................................... 3
1.1.4 Overview of Zemen shoe company’s Main products ........................................................... 3
1.1.5 Company Organizational Structure / Work Flow Diagram/ .................................................. 4
1.2. Over View of the Company from the internship period .................................................................... 6
1.2.1. Product Design Center .......................................................................................................... 6
Cutting Department .............................................................................................................................. 6
1.2.2. Closing/Stitching/ Department ........................................................................................... 10
1.2.3. Lasting Department ............................................................................................................ 12
1.2.4. Finishing method used in Zemen shoe ............................................................................... 14
1.2.5. Packaging system of Zemen shoe factory ........................................................................... 15
Chapter Two: Internship Project ................................................................................................................. 16
2.1. Introduction ......................................................................................................................................... 16
2.2. Statement of Problem ...................................................................................................................... 16
2.3. Objective of the project ................................................................................................................... 17
2.3.1. General objective of the project ............................................................................................... 17
2.3.2. Specific objective of the project ............................................................................................... 17
2.4. Scope of the Project ......................................................................................................................... 18
2.5. Limitations of the study ................................................................................................................... 18
2.6. Benefit of the project ....................................................................................................................... 18
2.7. Methodology.................................................................................................................................... 19
2.7.1. Project Study Method ............................................................................................................... 19
2.7.2. Data collection .............................................................................................................................. 20
Chapter Three: Literature Review ............................................................................................................... 21
3.1. Introduction ..................................................................................................................................... 21
3.2. Wastage ........................................................................................................................................... 21
3.3. Footwear material management and handling .......................................................................... 28

AASTU LIDI
III
Chapter Four: Data Analysis and Proposed Methods ................................................................................. 43
A. Wastage management/improvement .................................................................................................... 43
B. Priorities in waste management ............................................................................................................. 44
Chapter Five: Conclusion and Recommendation ........................................................................................ 48
5.1. Conclusion ................................................................................................................................... 48
5.2. Recommendations ...................................................................................................................... 48
5.2.1. Recommendation for our internship hosting company...................................................... 48
5.2.2. Recommendation for university ......................................................................................... 49
5.2.3. Recommendation for the project ....................................................................................... 49
6. Reference ................................................................................................................................................ 50

AASTU LIDI
IV
 Figures

Figure 1 : product of Zemen shoe .................................................................................................. 3

Figure 2 : designing process in Zemen shoe factory...................................................................... 6
Figure 3 : Work flow diagram of cutting department ..................................................................... 9
Figure 4 : Diagram for stitching machine classification ............................................................... 11
Figure 5: discovering location point ............................................................................................. 31
Figure 6: methods for zero degree ................................................................................................ 31
Figure 7: methods for 180 degree ................................................................................................. 32
Figure 8: line of tightness and stretch ........................................................................................... 37
Figure 9: principle of nesting ........................................................................................................ 38
Figure 10: Roll/bundle method of leather storage ........................................................................ 39
Figure 11: Stack on method of leather storage ............................................................................. 39
Figure 12: sorting of leather .......................................................................................................... 40
Figure 13: storing technique for last ............................................................................................. 41
Figure 14: storing technique of finished shoe ............................................................................... 42
Figure 15: Integrated frame work for managing waste based on proactive and reactive approach
....................................................................................................................................................... 47

Tables
Table 1 : Wastage produced by a wide range of materials type .................................................. 23
Table 2: table for wastage and cutting value of different grade of leather ................................... 34
Table 3: R.S.M allowance sheet ................................................................................................... 35

AASTU LIDI
V
Chapter one: Internship overview, Experience Gained, knowledge &
skill
1.1. Introduction and Company Profile
1.1.1 Introduction

Internship is one method of making opportunity for university students potentially valuable and
explores their general knowledge as well as specific skills. It can also provide us with valuable
work experience and an opportunity to line up a job before graduation.

Our internship hosting company was Zemen shoe factory which is found around Arat kilo in
Arada manufacturing college compound. We are four in number who joined this company. We
were working for four months from March to June.

The major benefits that we have got from the internship are: Practical skill, Interpersonal
communication skill, Team working skills, Leadership skill, Work ethics, and Entrepreneurship
skill. We got this skill when we work in designing, cutting stitching, lasting and finishing section
of the company.

We had the chance to work practically what we had studied in class room. This includes, the
skill of shoe designing, pattern making, hand lasting, stitching, hand cutting, preparation,
skiving, finishing, and we had the chance to touch and identify different types of leather with
their identical properties used for shoe making. Generally, Zemen shoe factory made us shoe
experts.

1.1.2 Company Profile

Zemen shoe factory was established in 2010 E.C and located Addis Ababa around 4 kilo in
Arada manufacturing college compound with an initial capital of 1.5 million birr. The covered
are of the company is around 175 square meters. The company started production by employing
9 skilled workers with production capacity of 48 pairs per day. Currently the company has 56
skilled employees with production capacity of 144 pairs per day. Ninety five percent of their
production process is done by skilled hand crafts men.

AASTU LIDI
1
The company made a difference in Ethiopia shoe industries. The design details, materials and
accessories used in their shoe made the company different. The factory produces very
comfortable, fashionable, light weight and durable products with different colors, sizes and
designs for local markets. They used different imitation techniques and inspirations that express
Ethiopian heritages in their shoe design. Due to this exceptional work they made shoe that
express the victory of Adewa for Adewa travel members.

Now the factory is in excellent way to be competitive in local market. It supplies different retails
in Addis Ababa and regions of Ethiopia. The factory has good potential to make any kind of shoe
in international standard.

Zemen shoe factory is organized in one roomy block. The block has three partitions. First
partition serves as office, store, and PDC room. Second partition, which is the largest of all room
serves as production and store for some materials, and third partition is for rest room.

1.1.2.1 Vision of company

Zemen shoe has its own vision for the future becoming one of the leading shoe and accessory
brands manufacturing in Africa by utilizing Ethiopian huge capacities and resources in the
sector.

1.1.2.2 Mission of company

Providing quality leather products to the local markets: by utilizing latest leather technologies,
production and management systems.

1.1.2.3 Objective of company

The objectives of the company are:-

 Increasing its market share in global leather and leather products industry
focusing in both quality and quantity.
 Creating job opportunity
 Utilizing latest machine and equipment
 Improving productivity through updated production and management system.

AASTU LIDI
2
1.1.3 Over view of Zemen shoe factory’s Raw Material Used
Zemen shoe factory used different Leather types, Sole types and other materials for the
production of shoes. During the internship program, we have seen that the factory uses full grain
TR leathers with different finish and colors. They use Nubuck and wax sheep and goat leathers
for upper and sheep leather for lining which is mainly sourced from Walleya tannery and
sometimes from Merkato whole sellers.

The factory uses very high quality sole products. Due to their flexibility, light weightiness,
durability, wash ability and fashionable design nature it uses PU and Rubber soles which is
supplied from China Guanzu.

In addition to this , the factory uses other materials like EVA sheet in role, Synthetic, Fabric,
Elastic material sewing thread in different size and color, insole board, shank board, foam in
different thickness, Different types of Adhesives, reinforcement material, laces, crepe rubber
used for shoe cleaning purpose and so on are used to produce different model shoe. These
materials are supplied from both local market and China.

1.1.4 Overview of Zemen shoe company’s Main products

Zemen shoe produces very high quality leather sport shoe with different models to full fill
customers need.

Figure 1 : product of Zemen shoe

AASTU LIDI
3
1.1.5 Company Organizational Structure / Work Flow Diagram/
Organizational structure defines how activities such as ask allocation, coordination and
supervision are directed toward the achievement of organizational aims. Organization need to be
efficient, flexible, innovative and caring in order to achieve a sustainable competitive advantage.
Organizational structure can also be considered as the viewing glass or perspective through
which individuals see their organization and its environment.

Zemen shoe organizational structure

General Manager

Production Marketing & sales Finance and

manager administration

Design Marketing Accounting

Quality Sales Human

control resource

AASTU LIDI
4
 Major Responsibility

Responsibility
The general manager is responsible for budgeting, controlling and
General Manager
leading the whole company.

To assure the quality of raw material and check the production process
Design and quality control
according to the specification. It also controls the design of the products
competitiveness to other company product design.

To develop the work plan which can be done by the main devision.it
Production and technique
division allows the machinery and tools to be maintained. Do research on
productivity and minimization or raw material and present to general
manager.

The main job of the finance department is control manage and corporate
Finance division
all the company finance work, budget, financial analysis and cost
determination. Plan the expenditure and income of the company; when
it‟s approved the department will go with an action. It also controls all
payment costs and incoming sales of the company. Control the cost
determinations will do as planed with expected value and preparing
annual, half year and quarter year financial report.

Production and technique supplying good quality products for customer

Quality control

Direct and control the activities of purchasing, sales and stores division
Market
with particular emphasis on the import of raw material and responsible to
control the sailing and marketing of the company.

AASTU LIDI
5
1.2. Over View of the Company from the internship period
1.2.1. Product Design Center
Product design as a verb is to create a new product to be sold by a business to its customers. A
very broad concept, it is essentially the efficient and effective generation and development of
ideas through a process that leads to new products. Thus, it is a major aspect of new product
development.

Product design process: the set of strategic and tactical activities, from idea generation to
commercialization, used to create a product design. In a systematic approach, product designers
conceptualize and evaluate ideas, turning them into tangible inventions and products. The
product designer‟s role is to combine art, science, and technology to create new products that
people can use.

About Zemen shoe product design center

It is a studio used to create one‟s new product or develop its own inventions. It also creates new
design products as per the customer‟s specification to fulfill the needs of the users. In Zemen
shoe factory there is only one skilled and experienced designer. All designing process is done by
him.

Designing process in Zemen shoe

Idea Generation Concept Development Design Development

Concept Development

Pattern Engineering Sample Development Pattern Development

/Extracting

Pilot Production (from all size

range Mass Production
one pair)

Figure 2 : designing process in Zemen shoe factory

Cutting Department
Cutting department is the second main process in shoe production. It determines 65-70% of the
cost of the shoe (i.e. Money is lost or made only on the cutting table).It is also known as clicking
department.

AASTU LIDI
6
The cutting department is done by hand cutting for the cutting of different materials in Zemen
shoe. Apart from upper materials of different types, bottom component materials such as insole,
shank board etc. is also prepared in the Insole plant. The cutting Dept. includes skiving also. It is
equipped with the necessary hand cutting skills. Bottom components such as toe puffs, counters
and foams are also prepared in the cutting department. During cutting the most important factor
is interlocking pattern. Before cutting one‟s shoe component the following points are necessary.
These are Line of tightness and stretchiness (i.e. for leather), for hand cutting, Nylon Board
should be clean and neat, Quality of material to be cut, Cutting knife should be sharp.

Actually, Cutting department divided in to two i.e. Hand cutting and Machine cutting.
Hand cutting: is one of the method of cutting leather. It is done with the use of hand knife and
cutting pattern. This requires a high degree of skill. As compare to the machine cutting, Hand
cutting is a slow process, but it is sometimes necessary for low order of production or for some
difficult design patterns.

Advantages of Hand cutting

 It takes low space

 Cost of patterns is less
 Simple cutting tools are used
 Storage space is greatly reduced
 There is no power cost and low risk of injury
 No or little maintenance

Disadvantage of Hand cutting

 It requires high labor force

 Low productivity
 High wastage of materials
 It requires high skilled cutter/ operators.

Tools used for Hand cutting in Zemen shoe factory

A Tool is an item or implement used for specific purposes. Hand tool is advice for performing
work on a material or a physical system using only hands. The following tools used for hand
cutting in Zemen shoe. These are:

AASTU LIDI
7
  Cutting knife: -This tool used in Zemen shoe for cutting of upper and lining.
 Cutter: - This tool used in Zemen shoe for cutting of foam, sometimes new pattern
design for.
 Cutting board /Nylon board/:- this tool used in Zemen for hand cutting
 Silver pen: - used for marking purposes
 Grinding: -used for sharpening the knife and etc.

Number of worker in cutting department

Hand cutting in Zemen shoe factory: In this department, number of workers found in this section
is three skilled cutters, one skilled skiving operator, One Quality inspection and one supporter for
cutting operators.

Machine cutting: - is a type of cutting method used for large order and most organized factory.
It needs machine for cutting components. It minimizes the cutting cost (i.e. it needs a few
operators as compare to the Hand cutting and it minimizes wastage. Because cutting by machine
is done edge to edge). It facilitates good interlocking skills.

Advantage of Machine cutting

 It minimize cutting time or production time

 It requires less labor force and skill
 Low wastage of material

Dis advantage of Machine cutting

 High maintenance cost

 It requires high space
 Cost of pattern is high (i.e. for each pair of shoe makes its own die)
 It needs high power
 It has high risk of injury

Tools and equipment’s used in this department: For machine cutting Leather horse, Die rake,
Tables (in-process material storage) and Silver pen are used.

AASTU LIDI
8
Cutting section Resource and documents

Some of the documents often used in Zemen shoe for cutting section are

1. Cutter‟s ticket
2. Master cutting plan
3. Quality inspection report (daily and monthly report)
4. Bill of Material
5. Dispatching sheet from cutting-lasting

1.2.1.1 Work flow diagram of cutting department

Cutting Department

Cutting supervisor
and planner
Skiving

Preparation

Upper preparation Bottom preparation

Cutting

Quality inspection

Figure 3 : Work flow diagram of cutting department

AASTU LIDI
9
1.2.1.2. Problems face in this section
Cutting direction (Line of tightness and stretchiness) not matched to the leather, Wastage
Management (i.e. not use good interlocking), Work space management, don‟t give attention on
Quality region (1.Butt region 2.Shoulder 3.Neck 4.Belly) for front, back and interior part of shoe.

1.2.2. Closing/Stitching/ Department

Clothing is the title given to the preparation, fitting together a finishing off the cut components to
produce an upper ready for lasting. They have two types of stitching functional stitching and
decorative stitching.

Functional stitching: is carried out for the joining and for the strength purpose.

Decorative stitching: is carried out to enhance the appearance. Each stitch should able to
withstand all kinds‟ exerted pressure during lasting pulls and wear. In this section needle and
thread are selected according to the material, operation and customers specifications. Stitching
operation is performed by combination of operator, material to be stitched and stitching machine.

1.2.2.1. Closing Section Classification

Based on method of stitching, clothing section classified in to two. These are Hand stitching
(Moccasin stitching) and Machine stitching.

Hand stitching: - It is a type of stitching performed without the aid of any machine. It takes
place by using simple hand tools and thread. It is simple and more attractive stitching type used
for small order and more complicated for machine stitch. Mostly hand stitching are used for
moccasin stitch.

Machine stitching: - It is also a type of stitching method done with the aid of sewing machine
and any other machine ancillary to the operation. It is done for large scale factory.

AASTU LIDI
10
 1.2.2.2 Stitching machine classification

Figure 4 : Diagram for stitching machine classification

1.2.2.3. Closing section machine classification

Basic sewing machine: - are those used to perform the basic stitching operation.
1. Flatbed single needle machine (FBSN m/c): it use for straight & curved stitch on the flat
surface.
2. Post bed single needle machine (PBSN m/c): it used for straight & curved stitch on the

AASTU LIDI
11
flat & curved surface using vertical post.
3. Cylindrical arm binding m/c: for binding and decorative on flat & curved surface using
horizontal post.

Ancillary sewing machine: - used to increase productivity, quality of the work and to
perform special types of stitching (butted seam, decorative, strobe, derby lock, moccasin etc...).
The example for these types of machine is:-

Zigzag m/c, FBDN, PBDN, Embroidery machine, stroble machine, bar taker, moccasin machine,
cording machine.
Ancillary operation machine

Machines used for supportive and decorative extra operation other than stitching in the
production process of the upper making. Beyond this machine classification, in clothing section
other ancillary operation machines is included like counter molding machine and clicking
machine (used for moccasin Re-cut operation).

1.2.2.4. Number of workers and machines available in closing section

The factory uses machine stitching only. Closing department also include preparation process.
Like, preparing the upper, reinforcement, foam and lining according to the design for stitching
purpose.

Number of workers classified according to the section. Closing department have two sections,
each section contain one machine stitching worker and four members for preparation purpose.

There are one flat bed single needle machine, 2 post bed single needle machines, and one zigzag
machine.

1.2.3. Lasting Department

What is the term “Lasting” means?

It is the term applied to the process involved in stretching the upper material over the last and
securing it to the bottom of the insoles either with tack, adhesives or threads providing that the
operations are carried out in the correct way. The upper will confirm itself to the contour of the
last and when the last is removed, retain this shape.

AASTU LIDI
12
Lasting of a shoe is the very first operation of assembling, we know that lasting may be done by
hand or by machine, through machine lasting is fast replacing hand lasting and generally hand
lasting is taken off from the growing market. Hand lasting is still is used because it is the
foundation of machine method.

Zemen shoe factory uses hand lasting with some machine supports. Such us back part molding
machine, heat setting machine and sole pressing machine. For hand lasting the factory uses
pincer, hammer, adhesive knife, nail lifter and scissors.

1.2.3.1.Methods of lasting
In actual lasting the upper can be attached to the insole, runner or sole. By grindery such as
tacks, wire staples, pre-formed staples, wire and thread attachment, by adhesive such as pressure
sensitive, heat activated, hot adhesives.

There are many ways to attach the sole with the upper but commercially only a few methods are
preferred. There are two types of attachment, the types of constructions used will often depend
upon what the finished shoe is used for so each will demand different considerations.

1. Direct Attachment
2. Indirect attachment
The methods of attachment can be divided into two groups:-
 Direct Attachment--Where the soles are attached directly to the lasted upper. This
methods include Cemented (Stuck-on) Constructions, Direct molded Constructions, etc.

 Indirect Attachment---Where the soles are attached to the welt or runner or any other
intermediate component which are these already being attached to the last upper. This methods
include Good year Welted Construction, Veldtschoen Construction, etc.

The lasting department is divided into three sections:

1. Assembly - In this section, it focuses on upper preparation like lacing and toe puff inserting

2. Lasting - In this section, it focus on the process of lasting like from insole tacking to heel
lasting.

AASTU LIDI
13
3. Bottoming & Finishing- In this section, it focuses on the bottom component like sole
preparation, sole attaching, sole pressing and etc. - It is mainly done after roughing operation.

There are many variations in the way by which footwear can be made from the Lasting point of
view. These are known as lasting constructions. Construction is defined as the method of
attachment of sole with the upper.

Zemen shoe factory uses Cemented (stuck on) construction method.

1.2.3.2 Lasting Section Resource

Like cutting and stitching section, lasting section has its own documents. These are daily
production report document, Daily quality report document, dispatching format and etc.

1.2.4. Finishing method used in Zemen shoe

The process which enhances the appearance and restores the inherent characteristics of the upper
leather is called shoe finishing. The finishing of shoe can greatly vary mainly depending on the
purpose of the leather. But a small expenditure in finishing can significantly improve customer‟s
interest in the product, and subsequently to higher returns.

Therefore, Zemen shoe factory highly focus and work on finishing processes. Different leathers
and materials have different finishing processes.

Shoe finishing process

There are 2 types of shoe finishing system or methods.

 System 1 shoe finishing process

 System 2 shoe finishing process

System I shoe finishing process

This system is used for all types of leather finishes /shoe finishing. It is done separately after
lasting and sole attaching operations.

System II shoe finishing process

This system is mostly used for pigmented or corrected grain finish leather which heavily coated,
cream applied and pass through heat setting for more penetration finish or cream. The finishing
process started before heat setting and sole attaching, after lasting operation completed.

AASTU LIDI
14
In Zemen shoe, system I – methods finishing system are used. It uses only dye and foam and also
uses cream for cleaning purpose. It used crepe rubber for feather edge cleaning and also for
surface of the shoe.

1.2.5. Packaging system of Zemen shoe factory

Final packing includes shoe finishing processes that are done after the actual finishing process
work is carried out. These include: -

 socks attaching/insertion
 lacing the shoe
 final inspection
 shoe stuffing
 final packing

Packaging can be described as a coordinated system of preparing goods for transportation,

warehousing, logistics, sale, and end user. Some examples of packaging system used in Zemen
shoe are: Packing slip, Carton label and protecting instruction.

Packing slip-use for showing size and destination information like for shop, for export etc.

Carton label- mainly carton label consist information about order number, style number (model
number), quantity, color and size related to product. In addition of that label contains place of
origin supplier detail and cosign to information in printed form.

Protecting instruction- like use shoe box, shoe stuffing, etc.

There are two types of packing system

 Assorted Packing: When done in mix sizing or more than one article in one carton e.g.
Size runs of 40/2, 41/2, 42/5, 43/5, and 44/2.
 Ready to store packing: When packing done in Particular size only e.g. 12 Pair of 42
Size in One carton. In Zemen shoe factory ready to store packing systems are used.

AASTU LIDI
15
 Chapter Two: Internship Project

2.1. Introduction
In this chapter we identifying the problem of footwear manufacturing companies and analyze
why such wastes are produced. Analyses possible solutions in order to reduce/ minimize the
quantity of waste. Also it gives the best solution and the possible alternative to recycle the waste.
Waste management is the collection, transport, processing, recycling or disposal, and monitoring
of waste materials. Waste management can involve solid, liquid, gaseous or radioactive
substances, with different methods and fields of expertise for each.

All details described about leather storing, estimating material and leather cutting process in the
„previous chapters‟ are the best methods for wastage management on leather usage. Most of the
time leather factories don‟t use those methods. By following the cutting principle, material
estimation required for some amount of product and footwear material sorting mechanism
factories could have chance to minimize waste. Beyond this, there is another way of
reducing/minimizing wastage which is discussed in this chapter. These lead the production rate
increase and minimize waste.

2.2. Statement of Problem

There are lots of shoe manufacturing companies in Ethiopia own by Ethiopian investors that
produce local products for sale. These companies are trying to satisfy customer‟s needs.
However, the attitude of the people to wards local product is so weak. Even though the Ethiopian
government has highlighted the leather footwear products, but footwear industries are not
successful as other manufacturing industries.

Among these footwear companies Zemen shoe is one of them, which produce local shoes. The
computation mostly based on quality and cost of products. This quality is identified and
happened in all section of shoe production.

The major problems that identified in Zemen shoe factory are :

 Working area are compacted by workers

 Unbalancing output with in sections

 Layout of factory

AASTU LIDI
16
  Poor quality of leather

 Poor wastage and inventory management

 Improper storing techniques (leather, bottom component, upper, last, tools…)

 Luck of cooperation

 Low production efficiency relative to their market

 Luck of supervision

 Poor finishing techniques and etc…

During our internships period there are many problem which we identified with regarding to
wastage in different section/or department of the company. Some of the problems that we
observed, which increasing or maximizing amount of wastage are:-

 Giving excess last margin allowance

 Bad interlocking of cutting pattern

 Over usage of adhesive

 Surplus usage of insole board during attaching on the last and bad last storing
mechanism.

Among these problems we do our project by giving special emphasis on Quality Improvement,
wastage and inventory management.

2.3. Objective of the project

2.3.1. General objective of the project
The general objective of this project is increasing the profit of the company by improving
wastage management system.

2.3.2. Specific objective of the project

The specific objectives of our study are listed below;

 Analyses possible solutions in order to reduce the quantity of waste

 Improving the quality of product

AASTU LIDI
17
  Improving the profitability of the company

 To examine the industry inventory management in appropriate way

 To compare and contrast the actual practice of Zemen shoe factory inventory
management with the theoretical aspects of inventory management.

 To give some constructive suggestions and recommendation based on the fact of the
study

 Estimating the material required to produce different amount of product

 Improving stoking techniques

2.4. Scope of the Project

The project is directly related to quality, wastage and inventory management of the company and
based on the company‟s problems in each section of the company. The project does not analyze
external factors that affect the company. It is based on the internal factors only.

2.5. Limitations of the study

The study faces a problem of time to collect all necessary data from the company. Some
respondents are involuntary to give available information. In addition, the employer is
involuntary to tell the real information regarding to their management system of the organization.

2.6. Benefit of the project

This project has a benefit to wards the host company, the country as well as for us. For the
hosting company the project is expected to increase the profitability, productivity, creating good
working area and minimizing unwanted inventory damages.

Form our project; we are getting knowledge about quality control mechanism, about inventory
and wastage management. We are also develop our communication skill during data collection
by interviewing formal and informal discussion with team supervisors and different operators.

Finally, our project gives benefit to the country with regarding to tax payment form the
company‟s revenue.

AASTU LIDI
18
2.7. Methodology
2.7.1. Project Study Method
The problems mentioned in the previous chapter are studied in an internship period at the factory
taking a four month time. During this period each of the project studies have had the opportunity
to work on the operation sections mentioned in the below chapter.

During the first three and four weeks of the internship period; everything to be done was
observation. Observing the employees work, being part of the work at hand. Time to time it
became clear that there are problems in the production. It is clear problem of quality, wastage
and inventory management so; the next step is generalize the problems for the company and find
the way of improving this type of problems after collect data based on the project title.

The Critical Examination of the recorded facts is very important and is performed to determine
the true reasons underlying each event and find out all possible improvements by applying some
sequential questioning techniques. In this procedure, every activity should be subjected to the
following questions asked one after the other in their proper sequence. The answers of these
questions will form the basis for the development of the improved method:

1. Purpose? What is being done? Why is it necessary? What else could be done? What
should be done?

2. Place? Where is it done? Why is it done there? Where else could it be done? Where
should it be done?

3. Sequence? When is it done? Why is it done then? Where else could it be done? Where
should it be done?

4. Person? Who does it? Why does that person do it? Who else could do it? Who should
do it?

5. Method? How is it done? Why is it done that way? How else could it be done? How
should it be done?

AASTU LIDI
19
2.7.2. Data collection
Data collection is a process of collecting information from the entire relevant source to find
answers to the research problems, test the hypothesis and evaluate the outcome. It is a process of
gathering and measuring information on targeted variable in an established system.
Data collection methods can be divided into two categories:-
2.7.2.1. Primary data collection methods
Observation: we began observation at the first week internship. it have seen the problems of
different section like cutting, closing and lasting from this different section the main problem
seen in the closing section be said with preparation.
Personal interviewing: by asking and discussed about the problem with the company skilled
workers like with company production manager and technical manager with the operators by
raising the questions based on the project and closing.
2.7.2.2. Secondary data collection
From different published documents, from different website and books relates to the project title
collects data and organize the data.
2.7.3. Data Analysis Method

They have two methods of data analysis; these are qualitative and quantitative research methods.
Qualitative research revolves around describing characteristics. It does not use numbers.
Qualitative research works with description and characteristics. A good way to remember
qualitative research is to think of quality. Quantitative research is the opposite of qualitative
research because its prime focus is numbers. Quantitative research is all about quantity.

AASTU LIDI
20
Chapter Three: Literature Review
3.1. Introduction
This chapter specifies the process steps which are involved in the generation of the waste from
footwear production. It also establishes a list of the usual Wastes generated during the footwear
manufacturing process. This can be applied to one specific product, a specific group of products,
and one specific production technology within the factory or to the whole production of a
company. The nature of such wastes produced will depend on manufacturing processes, the type
of shoe and the materials used.

3.2. Wastage
Waste (or wastes) are unwanted or unusable materials which is discarded after primary use, or is
worthless, defective and of no use. it is a by-product by contrast is a join product of relatively
minor economic value. A waste product may become a by-product, joint product or resource
through an invention that raises a waste product‟s value above zero. Wastes lead the company in
to different crisis especially economic crisis. OR Waste can be a substance or object or it can be
in liquid form that causes poor quality, increase cost, missing on time delivery, dissatisfaction of
customer, low productivity and poor utilization of resource.

According to the Basel convention, on the control of Tran‟s boundary movements of hazardous,
wastes and their disposal of 1989, Art 2(1), “wastes‟ are a substance or objects, which are
disposed of or are intended to be disposed of or are required to be disposed of by provisions of
national low”.

The United Nation Statistics Division (UNSD) “materials that are not prime products(that is,
products produced for the market) for which the generator has no further use interims of his /her
own purposes of a production, transformation or consumption, and of which he/she wants to
dispose. Wastes may be generated during the extraction of raw materials, the processing of raw
materials in to intermediate and final products, and other human activities.

Under the waste frame work directive 2008/98 E.C Art 3(1), the European Union defines waste
as “an object the holder discards, intends to discard or is required to discard.”

AASTU LIDI
21
3.2.1. Footwear wastage

The footwear industry is a manufacturing sector which utilizes a wide variety of materials and
processes to produce a range of distinctly different products, from sandals to specialized safety
footwear. Shoes are designed to fulfill an array of consumer requirements relating to function
and fashion, and incorporate varied range of designs and styles. In addition, a range of distinctly
different materials such as leather, synthetic materials, rubber and textile are commonly used in
shoe manufacturing.

These materials differ not only in their appearance but also in their physical qualities, their
service life, the different treatment needs as well as their recycling and recovery options at the
end of their useful life. There are approximately 40 different materials used in the manufacturing
of a shoe

These variations in designs, styles and materials, together with the environmental and economic
implications of end-of-life shoe processing determine the feasible approaches to deal with this
rapidly increasing waste stream.

Footwear is the sector that consumes the major part of leather (60%). Logically, this industry is
producing the largest quantity of leather wastes.

3.2.2. Main wastes appear in footwear work shop

Waste can be defined in different way of expression. A solid waste is any substance or object in
the categories set out of date products. Solid wastes can be found in any place in a manufacturing
plant. Some of them are produced on a regular basis and some may be the consequence of
mishaps.

A. Material Waste

The footwear industry is a diverse manufacturing sector which employs a wide variety of
materials to make products ranging from different types and styles of footwear to more
specialized shoes. Leather, synthetic materials, rubber and textile materials are amongst the basic
materials most commonly used in shoe manufacture.

 Leather 1
 Insole (cellulose board)
 Last

AASTU LIDI
22
  Sole ( TPR, PVC & PU)
 Reinforcement (toe puff and counter)
 Synthetic (PU and PVC coated)
 Adhesive
 Textile and fabrics
 Foam (EVA, PU…)
 Accessories (eyelet, d-ring, rivet and laces)

Wastage produced by a wide range of materials type (leather, textile, rubber, PU etc.) are shown in
the Table blow.

Table 1 : Wastage produced by a wide range of materials type

material or waste use as or comments and reasons why they appear reduction
produced

by

Leather, Textile upper and The pieces to be used as component in the the cutting ratio in leather is
(cotton, polyester, lining shoe are cut in leather and in other generally being optimized
nylon),Coated fabrics material. by the operators with less
(PU and PVC) expensive material, the ratio
The average cutting rates are
can vary from one country
· leather: 25-35% to the other: the only
criterion of the foot wear
· textile and fabrics: 20-25%
manufacturer is the
optimization between labor
cost and material cost

AASTU LIDI
23
Natural rubber/poly- injected technique due to the pressure, the · the mould must be as tight
isoprene, thermoplastic as possible

Reaction Injection material can flow out between the two · the design of the mould
Molded (RIM) parts reduces the quantity
polyurethane (PU),
of the mould. This generates wastes (flash) and the size of the carrots
Polyvinyl Chloride
· the mould contains a tube through which · worn mould generally
(PVC) and blends,
the produce more wastes
Ethylene Vinyl Acetate
Material is injected. The “carrots” are
(EVA) and blends,
considered as waste
Styrene Butadiene
Rubber (SBR), Outsole · when the machine stops working (rest,
team
Thermoplastic
Polyurethane (TPU), Change etc.) or when the production
changes
Thermoplastic Rubber
(TR), the color, some purges are produced which

Leather. cannot be used afterwards

stitched technique

very little waste is generated with this

technique

Cemented very little waste is generated

with this technique

Leather board, Insole the cutting stage generates about 25%-35% This cutting rate can be
of reduced with the use of
Cellulose board,
Waste. Automatic cutting machines
Non-woven (polyester),
(water, laser etc.).
This is particularly important when the

AASTU LIDI
24
Leather. labor With the latter, the cutting
ratio can be reduced
cost is much higher than the one of the
by 2 - 3 points
Materials being cut. In practical terms, the

operator is encouraged to do his best

mainly

with leather (bonus/mauls on his wages,

other

Incentive measure etc.) not with textile

Leather, In sock

Coated fabrics (PU and

PVC),

Foams (EVA, PU,

polyethylene (PE)
natural rubber latex),

Textile (nylon).

Thermoplastic sheet Reinforce

type (polyamide, ABS, ment
Surlyn, EVA),

Impregnated fabrics,

Fabric (polyester,
cotton, nylon),

Leather,

Fiberboard.

Roughing dust or Cementin · Before the sole is stuck on the upper, the The only reduction is to

AASTU LIDI
25
sludge g Latter must be prepared for adhesion. The avoid the collection in

roughing of the upper generated dust or Water. This is possible when

the upper has no
Sludge (when collected in a tank).
nail no metallic part

Bottom filler Miscellan · these other components of a shoe are not Two options are possible
(cork/resin, foam), eous
solid waste as such · the footwear manufacturer
Shanks (metal, wood, knows a footwear
· every 2 - 3 years, a footwear
plastic),
manufacturer can Component retailer. The
latter can often take
consider that these components are not
most of the components and
Going to be used anymore. In that case and
sell them to
if
another country
they cannot be sold, they become wastes
· the footwear manufacturer
purchases most of

its components on an order

to order (just in time)

B. Cutting Wastage
Leather is sold by surface, and cutting waste increases costs. By far, the largest quantity of waste is
generated at the cutting step.

Cutting wastage is a wastage that appears during cutting of materials or component required for the
production of shoes.

C. Time Waste

Time waste is one of wastes that occur in footwear industries. It is any ideal time between
interdependent processes. It occurs due to poor man to machine combination, unbalanced

AASTU LIDI
26
process, and more time for rework, long process time, and waiting for resource, line stop, and
motion, transportation, and maintenance problem.

Other reasons for time wastes can be:

 Operating without a goal: not having well defined objective

 Destruct
 Multi-tasking
 Miss placed priorities: putting materials away from working area
D. Manufacturing Wastes

There are different types of manufacturing wastes like overproduction, defect, waiting,
unnecessary processing, unnecessary inventory, unnecessary transportation between work sites
and unnecessary motion in the work place. In a single production line, all types of wastes could
not be seen. Base on the nature of production the manufacturing wastes was varied.
There different types of manufacturing wastes are:
A. Labor/man power: Labor waste is a type of waste that describe about energy waste.
Unnecessary man power in small work, using more energy due to lack of management plan and
not using to do list by operators are the main reasons for occur labor waste. Also non-used
potential/resource/talent is the other reason for labor waste.

B. Over production: producing products more than the requested order or before requested.
This is due to in accurate demand forecasting, poor planning system, unbalanced department
capacity and poor production system.

C. Inventory: excess stock, WIP than required. It is due to unbalanced work flow, large bath
size, lack of FIFO (first in first out), large process time, skill inefficiency and lack of JIT plan.

D. Transportation: unnecessary conveyance of parts or people between processes. It is due to

poor layout, poor material handling system, over production, un organized system and un clear
specification.

E. Over-processing: unnecessary manual work that does not contribute value to the product or
producing products of a higher quality than required and extra steps in the manufacturing
process. It is basically due to lack of standard system and unclear specification.

AASTU LIDI
27
 F. Motion: unnecessary physical or mental motion often associated with searching or
movement of people, part or machine with in the process. It is due to poor layout, poor
ergonomics and poor orientation of material/work.

G. Non-used potential/resource/talent: it is due to management problem and lack of

understanding.

H. Defect: a waste of mistake and correction includes additional rework. It is due to unclear
procedure/specification, skill shortage/lack training, poor process, poor quality of materials and
maintenance problem.

3.3. Footwear material management and handling

Upper materials estimation is critical in footwear manufacturing industries so, It is very
important to know the quantity of materials required to make a pair of shoe and their costs, as
based on these information, we do Product Costing Material, Requirement, Planning, Production
Planning etc. This unit describes about the importance of material consumption calculation and a
brief description of various methods for upper material calculation.

Finally, we will see some details about cutting of upper material and footwear material storing
techniques.

3.3.1. Upper material estimation

Materials estimation: approximate judgment or calculation, as of the value, amount, time, size,
or weight of something. Upper materials estimation is critical in footwear manufacturing
industries. It is very important to know the quantity of materials required to make a pair of shoe
and their costs; to be competitive in the market. It is a foundation for Product Costing and
pricing.

A. Objective of upper material estimation

 To establish the cost of a style /estimate the norm/
 To control the performance / consumption of material of clicker,
 To standardize the norm for a particular style
 Used for production planning /MRP/
B. Attributes of material estimation

AASTU LIDI
28
The profitability of the company depends on accurate costing. So that Sufficient accuracy to be
used as a standard against which cutting result can be compared so that action can be taken to
eliminate the wastage. It is also important to get accurate figure; sufficiently accurate figure are
needed to set material consumption allowance.

C. Method of upper estimation

There are seven methods of doing upper material estimations. These are: - Marking up (leather),
Graphical (leather), RSM (leather), SLM (leather), SATRA Sum (leather) , Graphic(for textile
and synthetic), and Tracing methods(for textile and synthetic)

Among thus methods, RSM is the most scientific and widely used method of upper material
estimation. So, let us go through to some details of RSM method:-

I. Pre checking

Before starting materials estimation, Checking of the pattern include article, size, quality of
pattern (damaged or not), type of materials used and others. In footwear manufacturing
industries shoe is made in different design, this leads to different consumption of materials. So
the identification of pattern article is mandatory in estimating of upper materials estimation.
Identify the article or model of the shoe pattern is the first job while upper materials estimation.

II. Russ and Small method

The first serious attempts at establishing a scientific method of arriving at leather consumption
allowance resulted in the publication in 1922 of a system by M/s W.W. RUSS and F.L. SMALL.
A more scientific approach can give adequately accurate results and it is considered that a system
of this type possess many advantages. This is a scientific method of costing. The entire process
takes place in three steps

1. Calculation of scale area called as S which is area of one pair of pattern + first waste which is
the unavoidable waste due to irregularity in shape of the pattern.

2. Calculation of gross area which is called as G which is scale area + second waste

3. Calculation of costing norm is equal to total gross area + third waste which is grade waste.

AASTU LIDI
29
First or interlocking wastage:

This is the net area of the individual pattern item comprising the upper and the first or
interlocking waste. The first waste is declined as the space left b/n two pattern pieces, when
interlocked together due to irregularities in shape. This is also called “scale area” and used as a
base for further phase in the system. Shoe pattern and leather size have inverted proportion to
estimating upper materials i.e. as the skin size decreases the consumption of upper materials for
one pair increases for a particular pattern size and if the pattern size decreases for a particular
skin size than the consumption will decrease.

Measurement of scale area of the pattern - For calculating pattern area or scale area each
pattern item is first assessed separately by arranging it in a sequence of interlocking patterns. The
objective is to get a parallelogram with the patterns, the area of which includes two patterns area
and the interlocking waste. By Russ & Small Method, we calculate the area of one pair of
patterns on graph sheet by 0° or 180° whichever is suitable and then by applying certain
formulas the costing norm of a particular style is calculated.

Area of parallelogram

 Area of parallelogram (pattern scale area) (S) = B*H

 H= perpendicular height of parallelogram to base
 B = base of parallelogram
 Pattern scale area is described in sq. decimeter.

Preparation

 Graph paper 100 mm x100 mm is needed. And Draw a straight line on the component
parallel through the graph paper lines.

 Draw the location points for future reference and all parts to be traced anywhere on the
center of the paper.

AASTU LIDI
30
  Always use the same face of the pattern when tracing i.e. the pattern should not be
turned over. Average size of the shoe should be considered to calculate by RSM.

Figure 5: discovering location point

Do not turn over the pattern, while doing pattern scaling and use the most economical
interlocking position. Always ensure that the center line drawn on the patterns are parallel to the
lines on the graph paper and the center line should never be thick. Make sure that the patterns do
not overlap. Sometimes it may be necessary to position a 7th pattern in between to achieve the
best interlock. This can be shown in the diagram by the dotted line. (To be shown with same
pattern).

Zero degree method

Figure 6: methods for zero degree

0º Method

 Trace the 1st pattern on graph sheet aligning the center line. Mark the location point

 Trace the 2nd pattern aligning at o degree with the first. Mark the location point. Second
pattern should touch the first pattern at two possible points.

 Trace the 3rd pattern rotating at 180 degree and mark the location point. The third
pattern must touch the 1st and 2nd pattern at minimum two points.

AASTU LIDI
31
  Trace the 4th pattern in the same direction as pattern three touching pattern 1 & 3 or 2 &
3 at minimum two points. Mark the location point.

 Trace the 5th pattern rotating at 180 degree method touching pattern 3 & 4 at minimum
two points. Mark the location point.

 Trace the 6th pattern in the same direction as pattern five touching pattern 4 & 5, or 3 &
5 at least at two points. Mark the location point

 Note pattern 1, 2, 5 and 6 are in the same direction.

 A parallelogram is drawn using like points on the four patterns as corners.

 The area of the parallelogram is calculated (length & height) and this is used as the basis
for allowance calculation. The area of parallelogram (ABCD) is called the scale area of
the pattern item.

180 degree method

Figure 7: methods for 180 degree

 Trace pattern 1 on graph sheet aligning the center line. Mark the location point

 Trace the 2nd pattern aligning at 180 degree with the firsthand should touch the first
pattern at two possible points. Mark the location point.

 Trace the 3rd pattern rotating at 180 degree and should touches both 1st & 2nd at least
two points, mark the location point.

 Trace the 4th pattern rotating at 180 degree touching 1st &2nd or 2nd & 3rd, at
minimum two points. Mark the location point.

AASTU LIDI
32
  Trace the 5th pattern rotating at 180 degree should touch 2nd &4th; at minimum two
points. Mark the location point.

 Trace the sixth pattern in the same direction as pattern five should touch 2nd&5th or 4th
&5th, at minimum two points. Mark the location point.

 Note pattern 1,3 ,5 and 6 are in the same direction

 A parallelogram is drawn using like points on the four patterns as corners of the
parallelogram.

 Then area of the parallelogram is calculated (length & height) and this is used as the
basis for allowance calculation. The area of parallelogram (ABCD) is called the scale
area of the pattern item.

Second wastage:

This waste is additional to the first wastage. The size of the shoe in relation to the size of the
individual pattern shapes. The larger the area, the smaller is the wastage, smaller the area, larger
the wastage. There are different sizes of leather used in footwear manufacturing industries. The
size of leather depends on the age and size of animals. There are different types of animals
leather used in foot wear manufacturing industries; these are cow, sheep, goat, camel, buffalo,
horse, pig, crocodiles, ostrich, and etc. are used in foot wear industry.

Pattern scale area when added with the second waste allowance is called GROSS AREA (G).
This depends on different kinds of leather also. For calculating G we use certain empirical
formulas as:

For Full Grain Leather, Nubuck and corrected Grain Leather: -

 If S/A< 0.185

G = S (1.205+ S/A)

Where: S= Pattern Scale area A = Area of the Skin

1.205 = this is an area addition that pair of the mathematical equation. This is constant for a
particular kind of skin.

AASTU LIDI
33
  If S/A >= 0.185 i.e. if the pattern item sized is bigger than the skin size e.g ladies ¾ cut
court shoe vamp to be cut from goat leather then

G=S (1. 02+2S/A)

 In the case of split and suede leather

G2=S (1.098+S/A)

Third wastage

It related of the curability grades of leather. On first grade leather, normally an Allowance of 3%
is given while on the other grade % allowance may vary by 5%. Leather grading is the process of
sorting out of finished leather into different groups e.g. A, B, C or I, II, III etc., as per the quality
and cutting value. Cutting value is defined as the % usable area i.e. the % area of leather which is
free of any defect.

Table 2: table for wastage and cutting value of different grade of leather

AASTU LIDI
34
R.S.M allowance sheet zero degree

Upper/Lining ________ _____ Article / Model No______________ Size______________

Average skin size (A) Material 1 _____ Leather grade: ______ Leather Type: _______

s .no, Parts No. of Scaling Pattern Gross pattern area(G)Dm2

comps. Dimensio Scale
Material Material Material
per pair n (cm) Area(S)
1 2 3
Dm2

01 Vamp

02 Tongue

03 Quarter
inside

04 Quarter
outside

Total Gross Area(G)

3rd Wastage 13%

Allowance (T)

Table 3: R.S.M allowance sheet

A. Cutting of upper materials

Cutting of material is a crucial process in footwear industry. Among the foot wear department
these sections require high skilled labors. Cutting department always has to follow factory
planning department's instruction. So, every day they should analyze production planning report
and emphasize on their guidelines.

AASTU LIDI
35
Before start to cut the materials, a cutter must select the better parts of the hide for the areas of
footwear that will get the most use, like vamp and quarter. This must all be done while ensuring
the smallest possible amount of cutting waste. Different parts of the shoe must be cut from
different sections of the hide to insure performance integrity: the vamp is the top part of the shoe,
and while it needs to stretch a little so it can be pulled over the last, it cannot stretch too much
lengthwise or the shoe will not keep its proper shape when it goes to lasting. Because of the
difference in the amount of stretch in different sections of a hide, some parts must be cut from
the middle of the leather hide while other parts must be cut from the outside edge. Here the
operator carefully examines the leather to get the most yields and least amount of waste, while
placing it onto the cutting surface.

I. Cutters Responsibilities

The cutters have to check physically all cutting tools before start working to know their
efficiency. Some fabric yarn construction and context is smooth but some are stiff or slippery.
So, the cutters have to understand fabric nature by hand feeling to erase shrinkage or other
hassles. They should collect approved sample which style is going to cut to protect any lather
component, Have to check leather components with detail description of material specification,
End of the day evaluates daily performance and has to fix tomorrow's goal, and Cutter should be
alert so that not to fall any dirt on the floor during cutting.

B. Layout

“Layout means nesting of pattern of a particular style on leather”. Most economically,

considering all the quality parameters of a side or skin e.g. quality region etc. lines of tightness
and the quality requirement of a shoe. Leather might be in the form of hide, side or skin.

I. Lines of Tightness and Quality Requirements

The direction of lines of tightness and lines of stretch play a major role in cutting of
pattern from hide or skin. Lines of tightness are defined as the direction in which the material
does not extend in length or very little increment in length takes place on applying force by two
thumbs. Whereas, in the direction of lines of stretch, material is increased in length or stretches
more by applying the same amount of pulling force. Normally, the line of tightness is just at 90°
to the lines of stretch.

AASTU LIDI
36
These lines are important in cutting because the upper component must be cut in such a way
that the lines of tightness cut along the length of the shoe for proper shape retention in
other words, we say that the component are cut “tight to toe”. This rule is strictly adhered to in
cutting most types of footwear. It is disregarded only in special circumstances e.g. open toe
sandal, boots etc.

The diagram shown below illustrate lines of tightness and lines of stretch on a hide/side

Lines of tightness Lines of stretch

Figure 8: line of tightness and stretch

II. Nesting Principle

Before proceeding for this nesting exercise following points is to be considered

i. The whole skin is to be regarded as perfect that is there is no defect anywhere.

ii. The person must be clear about the lines of tightness of all the components to make a
pair of shoe, their quality division & the allowances.
iii. The cutter must be able to divide the paper skin correctly in various parts i.e. butt, belly,
shoulder and should have a clear understanding of lines of tightness in different parts of
the skin/side.
iv. The aim of the cutter should be to use his/her leather as economical as possible by
avoiding wastage due to bad pattern interlocking. Before starting nesting on paper
skin directly they must take interlocking trial one or more times with every pattern
as for every pattern there is more than one method of pattern interlocking.

AASTU LIDI
37
 Figure 9: principle of nesting
(vi) There are guidelines given for achieving better pattern interlocking one may consider
these while interlocking.

(a) Curve to curve interlocking.

(b) Straight edge to straight edge.

(vii) Cutters are not required to nest components in pairs since this is a corrected grain cutting
exercise. Rather on completion of the work, they should end up with approx. equal no. of
pairs.

(viii) Cutting usually commences from the butt, continue along the backbone, working outwards
as far as the substance (thickness) and quality permits, utilizing the poor quality areas for the
parts which have little or no strain during wear.

(ix) If by reason of defects the material near the backbone is unsuitable, cutting should still be in
accordance with the principle of working in the direction from backbone to bank commencing
as more as possible to the defects, in order to ensure the minimum waste of the best
material, which invariably is to be found in the butt.

AASTU LIDI
38
(x) Change the direction of the patterns for getting components pair wise.

C. Footwear Material Storage

I. Leather Storage

Different types of leather (in color, in types, in grain and in size) should not be stored together.
There two are main kind of leather storage system commonly applicable if the quantity of
leather are few or if there is wide and enough space in the store. Stack on or flat method of
leather storage is better to keep the leather safely without any kind of damage as compare
to roll/bundle method.

1. Roll/bundle method of leather storage: commonly leathers are stored in the roll/bundle
form and 8 to 12 leathers are included in one roll/bundle. Roll method are preferable to utilize
the space than stack on method .Because once it is rolled/bundled it is possible to keep it on
the rack so that more leather can store within the small area/space.

Figure 10: Roll/bundle method of leather storage

2. Stack on method of leather storage: These types of leather are preferable to keep together.

The method of storage to be minimizing the risk of cracking and all leathers should be ideally

stored flat or hung over a horse.

Stack on method: laying one over the

other.

Figure 11: Stack on method of leather storage

AASTU LIDI
39
 II. Leather Sorting

Leather is sorting by considering all factors like temperature, humidity, light, and proper labeling
etc.

 Humidity: the ideal atmospheric humidity level is between 50 – 60% RH.

 Lighting: avoid strong light or direct sunlight and prolonged exposure of leather to
strong light.
 Temperature: most leather best stored should not be more than 10°c -20 °c temperature.
Very high storage temperature may cause finish blocking and finish cracking.
 Proper labeling: in order to easily identified each types of leather and to
distinguish one types of leather from the others proper labeling is required. The
label should include the required dates.

Figure 12: sorting of leather

III. Out sole storing technique

The out sole, also known as the sole, is the bottom most part of a shoe that comes in direct
contact with the ground. The out sole can be made out of a variety of materials, including leather
and rubber. Certain types of out soles provide more traction than others by using specific
materials or designs. Out sole materials are sensitive to environmental it is better to store below
30 0c and day light (not exposed to sun light). If not can face failure like change color and melt.

IV. Bottom component storing technique

Bottom components are a raw material used to make shoes these are insole board, toe puff,
counter stiffener, shank board, steel shank etc. this materials has fixed dimension they have to
keep in stock in layer.

AASTU LIDI
40
 V. Accessories and chemicals

Accessories are material used to enhance and decorate products. They have to keep as per
specification of manufacturer.

Chemical: is a form of matter that has constant chemical composition and characteristic
properties. Chemicals used in leather products manufacturing adhesives, thinner and creams they
stored as per specification by scanning pot life, shelf life and expire date.

VI. Last storing technique

A last is a mechanical form that has a shape similar to that of a human foot. It is used by shoe
makers in the manufacture and repair of shoes. Lasts typically come in pairs and have been made
from various materials, including hardwoods, cast iron, and high-density plastics.

Know a day lasts are made of high density plastics, this plastics may exposed to high heat,
mechanical break these may increase amortizations cost. Therefore it needs good method of
storing as fig.

Figure 13: storing technique for last

VII. Finished shoes storing technique

As materials age they becomes stiff. To retain the shape of the shoe, the originality and good
looking of shoe it should be kept in good storage system. Wooden shoe horns and stretchers are
an elegant option for helping shoes keeps their shape. Before inserting wooden or plastic shoe

AASTU LIDI
41
frames allow shoes to rest for a last a day after wearing to allow any residual moisture to
evaporate. Otherwise the insert could trap dampness within the shoe and lead to deterioration.

Shoe box: it is a method of protection shoes from dust sunlight and temperature. It gives the
shoe the long last ability. After stuffing and shoe tree shoes are kept in to shoe box.

Figure 14: storing technique of finished shoe

Shoe trees: trees let keep shoes off the floor are excellent for keeping as organized. Anything
that fits inside the shoe and distorts its silhouette can stretch leather and fabric uppers over time.
These items are not for long-term storage.

AASTU LIDI
42
Chapter Four: Data Analysis and Proposed Methods

A. Wastage management/improvement
Waste management system is very essential to increase the survival rate of companies on the
industry. Waste management is the solutions to reduce the quantity of waste. In particular, with
good quality leather, the quantity of waste will be lower. Process-integrated techniques to reduce
waste production inside installations are essential for an optimized waste treatment system.
Waste treatment is still necessary for materials which can‟t be reused.

By following the cutting principle, material estimation required for some amount of product
and footwear material storing mechanism factories could have chance to minimize waste.
And also while using leather sorting by considering all factors like temperature, humidity; light,
proper labeling .etc. leathers could safe from permanent crack and grain fell. If leathers are
protected from those defects factories can increase their productivity rate and minimize waste to
small number.

Waste management options for shoes are divided into two major approaches: proactive and
reactive.

I. Proactive wastage management approach

Proactive approach is stand for waste minimization activities range from product and material
changes, to process changes, to changes in methods of operations. Proactive approaches include
all measures that are taken with the aim of minimizing waste during both the production and the
end-of-life phase. In general, it makes far more sense to reduce or even minimize waste than to
develop extensive treatment schemes and techniques to ensure that the waste poses no threat to
the environment. Waste minimization activities range from product and material changes, to
process changes, to changes in methods of operations.
Although there is a wide range of proactive waste management activities, there are two major
improvement methods that could be applied in the footwear industry in order to reduce or even
minimize waste at the source, design and material improvements.

 Design improvement: - Waste minimization strategies should start at the beginning of

products life cycle, improvements in the footwear sector could have significant impact

AASTU LIDI
43
 on environmental quality and could reduce the amount of materials needed, thus
reducing the amount of waste that need to be handled at the end of the lifecycle. Also a
footwear product which is designed for ease of disassembly will make reuse and
recycling of its components and parts easier, thus reducing the amount of materials
disposed into landfill.
 Material improvement: - properties of a product can be improved by simply choosing
different materials. Material substitution is a proactive approach which can achieve
significant reduction of waste.
Proactive approaches include all measures that are taken with the aim to reduce or minimize
waste at the source. Reduction of waste, also referred to as waste minimization, is a proactive
approach because simply, waste which is avoided needs no management and has no
environmental impact.
II. Reactive wastage management approaches
Reactive waste management approach is also referred as End-of-Life Management. The key
difference between proactive and reactive approaches is timing. EoL management is an after-the
event approach while proactive approaches have an “anticipate and prevent” philosophy to deal
with waste.
Total waste elimination is not possible especially in small capital companies. There always be
some waste that cannot be prevented at the source. Where waste material is produced, an optimal
reactive approach treatment option must be selected with the lowest possible risks.
On the other hand, reactive approaches include all the other waste management options (such as
reuse, recycling, energy recovery from waste and disposal) which act in response to the waste
problem when the useful life of the product has ended, and are hence referred to as end-of-life
management. Total waste elimination is not possible. There will always be some waste that
cannot be prevented at the source. Where waste material is produced, an optimal end-of life
treatment option must be selected with the lowest possible risks to human health and the
environment. Each end-of-life management option brings different impacts to different parts of
the environment like reuse, recycling, energy recovery from waste and disposal.

B. Priorities in waste management

With regards to waste management, the footwear industry needs:

AASTU LIDI
44
1. Guidelines in order to better anticipate future regulations and deal with them effectively,
2. A tool in order to estimate the effectiveness of the waste management.
3. This incorporates such a tool, designed specifically for the footwear industry.
4. Incinerate and recover energy from the waste
5. Treat the waste.
In order to improve the waste management, the footwear manufacturer should perform the
following tasks:
1. Reduction:
Quantity of waste generated can be reduced:
 Material scraps,
 Packaging which are too small and too numerous.
2. Re-use:
Reuse can be the best way of minimizing risks. In cutting section there will be different
types of scraps; scraps of leather, foam, insole….etc.
The wastes/packaging can be re-used, like:
 Wastage from shoe production often reused in sandal manufacturing where
small pieces are required than shoe.
 Bottom filling normally can be done using leather scraps or foam materials.
Thin paper disposals are often used as filler between insole and outsole.
 Damaged PU lasts can‟t be used to produce new lasts as they result in low
durability. So they used in production of other PU products. They are reused
as soling material in injection molded shoes.
3. Recycling:
Recycle can be practiced with the use of products that designed to be used a number of times.
For example used soles can be used again in some production.
Recycling involves processing used materials into new products to prevent waste of potentially
useful materials, reduce the consumption of fresh raw materials, reduce energy usage, reduce air
pollution (from incineration) and water pollution (from land filling) by reducing the need for
“conventional” waste disposal, and lower greenhouse gas emissions as compared to virgin
production. Recycling is a key component of modern waste reduction and is the third component
of the waste hierarchy (“Reduce, Reuse, and Recycle”).

AASTU LIDI
45
However, this is often difficult or too expensive (compared with producing the same product
from raw materials or other sources), so “recycling” of many products or materials involve their
reuse in producing different materials instead. Recycling differs from reuse in that it breaks
down the item into raw materials which are then used to make new items, as opposed to reusing
the intact item. As this extra processing requires energy, as a rule of thumb reuse is
environmentally preferable to recycling.
4 Energy recovery
Waste can be incinerated with energy recovery such as:
 leather,
 “off” specification materials
 compounds which cannot be recycled,
 coated fabrics (multi-layer material with/without PU foam),
5 Special
For, hazardous waste for which no other solution exists, a special treatment is needed for:
 dried adhesives residues,
 Bottoms of chemicals (finishing, used solvents etc.),
 Jars, tins and drums containing products residues (adhesive etc.)
6 Landfill
When no solution can be applied for solid wastes, the manufacturer has to consider landfilling.
Waste disposal site for the deposit of the waste onto or into land (i.e. underground). In most
developed countries, landfilling is now considered as the last solution, which should be applied
to a small amount of wastes. Now regulations generally require controlled landfilling which
means that the emissions of the landfill must controlled and treated before being discharged to
the environment. However, Landfill sites can result in serious environmental pollution of
groundwater and rivers, due to landfill leachate.

AASTU LIDI
46
 Waste management options for leather footwear

Waste Minimization End-of-Life Management

Design Material Reuse Recycle Energy Disposal

Improvement Improvement Recover

Eco-Design Material Substitution

Destructive Non-
Destructive

Grinding Shreddin Inspection

g
Inspection
Repair Incineration
Separation Disassembly gasification
Refurbishing
pyrolisis
Reprocessing Reprocessing

Footwear Product System Other Product System Landfill

(Closed-Loop) (Open-Loop)

Figure 15: Integrated frame work for managing waste based on proactive and
reactive approach

AASTU LIDI
47
Chapter Five: Conclusion and Recommendation
5.1. Conclusion
This paper presented an integrated waste management framework for the footwear industry
based on proactive and reactive waste management options, and by following the cutting
principle, material estimation required for some amount of product and footwear material sorting
mechanism factories could have chance to minimize waste and increase productivity. From
the study done in the manufacturing industries of Zemen shoe factory, we conclude that Lean
tools are indeed an organization strategy that can provide a continuous/breakthrough
improvement in this competitive area.

When we come to our experience, generally it was a very pleasing time that, this internship
program gave us a chance to look at the work and gain different types of practical experience in
construction of shoes and bags. We learned so many practical skills and it gave us a chance to
prepare our self to know and understand what will await us when we graduate. This helped us to
define what skills and knowledge we have to improve for the next time.

We also got a chance to meet people that are seniors in the field, which helps to increase my
professional circle. We recognize comparing the time before internship and the present after the
internship, there is a great difference with respect to our expectation in all professional manners.
Because thing at work are so much deferent than what we was expecting to be. Therefore we
have got this internship program being valuable as a link between my theoretical knowledge and
practical skills. We can say in confidence that this internship time was very turning point for us.
It gives me a hint to know about professionalism and what personalities are needed to have.

5.2. Recommendations
During our period of internship experience we have seen some positive and negative side
about the internship hosting company. We will try to advocate some ideas for internship hosting
company and to Addis Ababa Science and Technology University.

5.2.1. Recommendation for our internship hosting company

The point that we would like to propose to Zemen shoe factory are:-

 They should organize their material management like leathers, soles, adhesives and
other consumable materials from wastage and rejection.

AASTU LIDI
48
  They should fulfill the required facilities like office, documents, medical center for
first aid.
 They should determining the placement of departments, work groups within the
departments, workstations, machines, and stock-holding points within a production
facility.
 The equipment or work processes are arranged according to the progressive steps by
which the product is made.
 They have to provide enough space in every each section/ or department in order to
improve smooth flow of work.
 The company should follow organized material planning to overcome material
shortage like leather.
 They should provide additional man power in stitching department.
 The company lucks promotion
 The company should balance the output of each section

5.2.2. Recommendation for university

 Our university affords a good chance for the students in order to join a company and
developing their practical skill.
 Beside of this we would like to recommend that the department may act accordingly for
effectiveness of internship program. And they should provide sufficient finance for the
student during their internships periods.

5.2.3. Recommendation for the project

 We are recommended the host company should improve their wastage management to
increase profit and productivity.
 We also recommend that the company should employ the quality inspector in every
section of production process to minimize wastage of the material.
 Our further recommendation to Zemen shoe factory is they should follow different
mechanism that we stated in the previous chapters in order to increase their productivity
and profitability.

AASTU LIDI
49
 6. Reference

Books
 Cutting I and II handout (by Ifa Abdi, 2017 & 2018)
 Stitching I (by Abdi Angerasa, 2018)
 Material estimation handout (by Ifa Abdi, 2018)
 Lasting handouts (by Ephrem, 2018)

Websites
 www.wikipedia.com
 info@leanproduction.com
 www.facebook.com\zemen shoe
 www.google.com

AASTU LIDI
50