Boat building

Boat building is the design and construction of boats and their

systems. This includes at a minimum a hull, with propulsion,
mechanical, navigation, safety and other systems as a craft requires.[1]

Contents
Construction materials and methods
Wood
Metal
Iron and steel
Aluminum
The schooner Appledore II under
Cupronickel
construction
Fiberglass
Composite material
Ferrocement
Hull types
Glossary
Gallery
See also
References
External links

Construction materials and methods

Wood

Wood is the traditional boat building material used for hull and spar
construction. It is buoyant, widely available and easily worked. It is a
popular material for small boats (of e.g. 6-metre (20 ft) length; such as
dinghies and sailboats). Its abrasion resistance varies according to the
hardness and density of the wood and it can deteriorate if fresh water
or marine organisms are allowed to penetrate the wood. Woods such Construction of the Naga Pelangi in
as Teak, Totara and some cedars have natural chemicals which 2004, a Malaysian pinas, using
prevent rot whereas other woods, such as Pinus radiata, will rot very traditional lashed-lug techniques.
quickly. The hull of a wooden boat usually consists of planking Note the protruding dowels on the
fastened to frames and a keel. Keel and frames are traditionally made upper edges of the planks and the
of hardwoods such as oak while planking can be oak but is more fiber caulking in the seams. The ribs
will be added once the shell is
often softwood such as pine, larch or cedar.[2]
complete.
Plywood is especially popular for amateur construction but only
marine ply using waterproof glues and even laminates should be used.
Cheap construction plywood often has voids in the interior layers and
is not suitable to boat building as the voids trap moisture and
accelerate rot as well as physically weaken the plywood. No plywood
is rot resistant and should be coated with epoxy resin and/or a good
paint system. Varnish and Linseed oil should not be used on the
exterior of a hull for waterproofing. Varnish has about 60% of the
water resistance of a good paint system. Only boiled linseed oil
should be used on a boat and only in the interior as it has very little
Damaged boat mid-reconstruction;
water resistance but it is very easy to apply and has a pleasant smell. carvel planking partially removed
Note that used linseed rags should not be left in a pile as they can
catch fire. A valuable 200-year-old waka (Maori canoe) caught fire in
New Zealand in June 2014 when restorers left rags piled overnight.
Raw linseed oil is not suited to boats as it stays damp and oily for a
long time. Mildew will grow well on raw linseed oil treated timber but
not on boiled linseed oil. More recently introduced tropical woods as
mahogany, okoumé, iroko, Keruing, azobé and merbau.[3] are also
used. With tropical species, extra attention needs to be taken to ensure
that the wood is indeed FSC-certified.[4] Teak or iroko is usually used
to create the deck and any superstructure. Glue, screws, rivets and/or
nails are used to join the wooden components. Before teak is glued
the natural oil must be wiped off with a chemical cleaner, otherwise
the joint will fail. Caulking irons and oakum

Some types of wood construction include:

Lashed-lug, are ancient boat-building techniques of the

Austronesian peoples. It is characterized by the use of
sewn holes and later dowels ("treenails") to stitch planks
edge-to-edge onto a dugout keel and solid carved wood
pieces that form the caps for the prow and stern. The
planks are further lashed together and unto ribs with fiber
ropes wrapped around protruding carved lugs on the inside
surfaces. Unlike western boat-building techniques, the
Caulking a wooden boat
shell of the boat is created first, prior to being lashed unto
ribs. The seams between planks are also sealed with
absorbent tapa bark and fiber that expands when wet or
caulked with resin-based preparations.[5][6][7]
Carvel, in which a smooth hull is formed by edge joined
planks attached to a frame. The planks may be curved in
cross section like barrel staves. Carvel planks are
generally caulked with oakum or cotton that is driven into
the seams between the planks and covered with some
waterproof substance. It takes its name from an archaic
ship type and is believed to have originated in the
Mediterranean. A number of boat building texts are A sheet plywood sailboat during
available which describe the carvel planking method in construction
detail.[8]
Clinker is a technique originally identified with the
Scandinavians and Ingveonic people in which wooden
planks are fixed to each other with a slight overlap that is
beveled for a tight fit. The planks may be mechanically
connected to each other with copper rivets, bent over iron
nails, screws or in modern boats with adhesives. Often,
steam bent wooden ribs are fitted inside the hull.[9]
Strip planking is yet another type of wooden boat
construction similar to carvel. It is a glued construction Brady 45' strip-built catamaran under
method which is very popular with amateur boatbuilders as construction
it is quick, avoids complex temporary jig work and does not
require shaping of the planks.[10]
Sheet plywood boat building uses sheets of plywood panels usually fixed to longitudinal
long wood such the chines, inwhales (sheer clamps) or intermediate stringers which are all
bent around a series of frames. By attaching the ply sheets to the longwood rather than directly
to the frames this avoids hard spots or an unfair hull. Plywood may be laminated into a round
hull or used in single sheets. These hulls generally have one or more chines and the method is
called Ply on Frame construction.[11] A subdivision of the sheet plywood boat building method
is known as the stitch-and-glue method,[12] where pre-shaped panels of plywood are drawn
together then edge glued and reinforced with fibreglass without the use of a frame.[13] Metal or
plastic ties, nylon fishing line or copper wires pull curved flat panels into three-dimensional
curved shapes. These hulls generally have one or more chines . Marine grade plywood of good
quality is designated "WBP" (which stands for water- and boiled-proof) or more usually BS
1088. Australian plywood manufacturers and suppliers have issued warnings that some Asian
nations are selling ply stamped BS 1088 which does not meet international standards.
Specifically, they say outer plies are too thin (should be 1.2 mm or 0.047 in minimum) or are
very thin (less than 0.5 mm or 0.020 in) or high-grade surface ply such as Okoume is combined
with a much heavier and wider inner cores. Most high-grade marine Okoume (Gaboon) ply
uses lightweight poplar inner cores. Often the 1088 stamp is blurred in the poor Asian ply so it
is not clear. In Australia and New Zealand a higher-grade marine ply than BS1088 is AS2272.
It requires both faces to be "A" quality, with even-thickness plies. The most common plywood
used for this grade is plantation-grown Hoop Pine which is fine grained, very smooth,
moderately light (at 570 kg/m3 or 36 lb/cu ft it is the same weight as Meranti ply and about 13%
heavier than genuine poplar cored BS1088 Okoume). Hoop pine has a very high stress rating
of F17, indicating high strength. Meranti (Lauan) ply has a stress rating of F14 and Okoume ply
F8. Okoume ply is commonly coated with epoxy to increase strength and impact resistance as
well as to exclude water. Both types of plywood construction are very popular with amateur
builders, and many dinghies such as the Vaurien, Cherub, Tolman, Moth and P class (ply on
frame construction) and FJs, FDs and Kolibris (stitch-and-glue method) have been built from
it.[14][15] Another variation is tortured ply where very thin(3 mm or 0.12 in) and flexible (often
Okoume)preshaped panels ply are bent into compound curves and sewn together. Little or no
framework or longitudinal wood is used. This method is mainly confined to kayaks.
Cold moulding is a composite method of wooden boat building that uses two or more layers of
thin wood, called veneers, oriented in different directions, resulting in a strong monocoque
structure, similar to a fibreglass hull but substantially lighter. Sometimes composed of a base
layer of strip planking followed by multiple veneers. Sometimes just veneers are used.[16] Cold-
moulding is popular in small, medium and very large, wooden super-yachts. Using different
types of wood, the builder can lighten some areas such as bow and stern and strengthen other
high-stress areas. Sometimes cold-moulded hulls are protected either inside or out or both with
fibreglass or similar products for impact resistance, especially when lightweight, soft timber
such as cedar is used. This method lends itself to great flexibility in hull shape.[17]
Cold-moulded refers to a type of building one-off hulls using thin strips of wood applied to a series of forms at
45-degree angles to the centerline. This method is often called double-diagonal because a minimum of two
layers is recommended, each occurring at opposing 45-degree angles. The "hot-moulded" method of building
boats, which used ovens to heat and cure the resin, has not been widely used since World War II; and now
almost all curing is done at room temperature.

Metal

Iron and steel

Either used in sheet or alternatively, plate [18] for all-metal hulls or for isolated structural members. It is strong,
but heavy (despite the fact that the thickness of the hull can be less). It is generally about 30% heavier than
aluminium and somewhat more heavy than polyester. The material rusts unless protected from water (this is
usually done by means of a covering of paint). Modern steel components are welded or bolted together. As the
welding can be done very easily (with common welding equipment), and as the material is very cheap, it is a
popular material with amateur builders. Also, amateur builders which are not yet well established in building
steel ships may opt for DIY construction kits. If steel is used, a zinc layer is often applied to coat the entire
hull. It is applied after sandblasting (which is required to have a cleaned surface) and before painting. The
painting is usually done with lead paint (Pb3 O4 ). Optionally, the covering with the zinc layer may be left out,
but it is generally not recommended. Zinc anodes also need to be placed on the ship's hull. Until the mid-
1900s, steel sheets were riveted together.

Aluminum

Aluminum and aluminum alloys are used both in sheet form for all-
metal hulls or for isolated structural members. Many sailing spars are
frequently made of aluminium after 1960. The material requires
special manufacturing techniques, construction tools and construction
skills. It is the lightest material for building large boats (being 15-20%
lighter than polyester and 30% lighter than steel). Aluminium is very
expensive in most countries and it is usually not used by amateur A punt under construction
builders. While it is easy to cut, aluminium is difficult to weld, and
also requires heat treatments such as precipitation strengthening for
most applications. Galvanic corrosion below the waterline is a serious
concern, particularly in marinas where there are other conflicting
metals. Aluminium is most commonly found in yachts and power
boats that are not kept permanently in the water. Aluminium yachts
are particularly popular in France.

Cupronickel

A relatively expensive metal used only very occasionally in Wooden boats under construction
boatbuilding is cupronickel. Arguably the ideal metal for boat hulls, during the Klondike Gold Rush
cupronickel is reasonably tough, highly resistant to corrosion in
seawater, and is (because of its copper content) a very effective
antifouling metal. Cupronickel may be found on the hulls of premium tugboats, fishing boats and other
working boats; and may even be used for propellers and propeller shafts.

Fiberglass
Fiberglass (glass-reinforced plastic or GRP) is typically used for production boats because of its ability to reuse
a female mould as the foundation for the shape of the boat. The resulting structure is strong in tension but often
needs to be either laid up with many heavy layers of resin-saturated fiberglass or reinforced with wood or foam
in order to provide stiffness. GRP hulls are largely free of corrosion though not normally fireproof. These can
be solid fiberglass or of the sandwich (cored) type, in which a core of balsa, foam or similar material is applied
after the outer layer of fiberglass is laid to the mould, but before the inner skin is laid. This is similar to the next
type, composite, but is not usually classified as composite, since the core material in this case does not provide
much additional strength. It does, however, increase stiffness, which means that less resin and fiberglass cloth
can be used in order to save weight. Most fibreglass boats are currently made in an open mould, with
fibreglass and resin applied by hand (hand-lay-up method). Some are now constructed by vacuum infusion
where the fibres are laid out and resin is pulled into the mould by atmospheric pressure. This can produce
stronger parts with more glass and less resin, but takes special materials and more technical knowledge. Older
fibreglass boats before 1990 were often not constructed in controlled temperature buildings leading to the
widespread problem of fibreglass pox, where seawater seeped through small holes and caused delamination.
The name comes from the multiude of surface pits in the outer gelcoat layer which resembles smallpox.
Sometimes the problem was caused by atmospheric moisture being trapped in the layup during construction in
humid weather.

Composite material

"Composite construction" involves a variety of composite materials and methods: an early example was a
timber carvel skin attached to a frame and deck beams made of iron. Sheet copper anti-fouling
("copper=bottomed") could be attached to a wooden hull provided the risk of galvanic corrosion was
minimised. Fast cargo vessels once were copper-bottomed to prevent being slowed by marine fouling. GRP
and ferrocement hulls are classic composite hulls, the term "composite" applies also to plastics reinforced with
fibers other than glass. When a hull is being created in a female mould, the composite materials are applied to
the mould in the form of a thermosetting plastic (usually epoxy, polyester, or vinylester) and some kind of fiber
cloth (fiberglass, kevlar, dynel, carbon fiber, etc.). These methods can give strength-to-weight ratios
approaching that of aluminum, while requiring less specialized tools and construction skills.

Ferrocement

First developed in the mid-19th century in both France and Holland,

ferrocement was also used for the D-Day Mulberry harbours. After a
buzz of excitement among homebuilders in the 1960s, ferro building
has since declined.

Ferrocement is a relatively cheap method to produce a hull, although

unsuitable for commercial mass production. A steel and iron
"armature" is built to the exact shape of the hull, ultimately being
covered in galvanised chicken netting. Then, on a single day, the
cement is applied by a team of plasterers. The cement:sand ratio is a A 22-meter professionally built
very rich 4:1; do not call it concrete! As the hull thickness is typically ferrocement staysail schooner
2.5 to 3 cms, ferrocement is unsuitable for boats less than about 15
metres LOA as there is a weight penalty; above that length there is no
penalty. Properly plastered ferrocement boats have smooth hulls with fine lines, and amateur builders are
advised to use professional plasterers to produce a smooth finish. In the 1960s and 1970s, particularly in
Australia and New Zealand, the cheapness of ferro construction encouraged amateur builders to build hulls
larger than they could afford, not anticipating that the fitting-out costs of a larger boat can be crippling.

The advantages of a ferro hull are:

 cannot burn, rot, or rust; & no osmosis
good insulation: cool in summer, warm in winter
tougher than GRP, and almost as tough as a steel vessel; (and if damaged, easily repaired
almost anywhere in the world)
properly built, a ferro hull is as fair as a GRP hull.
they may be cheap to buy (see disadvantages, below)

The disadvantages are:

many home-built ferro boats are lumpy, overweight and ugly.

some early builders, realising that their creation proved to be disappointing, scuttled their
vessels and fraudulently claimed insurance.
accordingly, ferro yachts may be difficult to sell and nigh impossible to insure.

See also: concrete ship, concrete canoe.

Hull types
There are many hull types, and a builder should choose the most appropriate one for the boat's intended
purpose. For example, a sea-going vessel needs a hull which is more stable and robust than a hull used in
rivers and canals. Hull types include:

Smooth curve hull: these are rounded and free of chines or corners.
Chined hulls: these hulls have flat panels (typically plywood) which meet at a sharp angle
known as the "chine". Chined hulls range from simple flat-bottomed boats where the topsides
and bottom meet at about 110 degrees (such as banks dories and sharpies) to skiffs where the
bottom is arced rather than flat. Multi-chine hulls allow an approximation of a round hull shape.
Flat-bottomed hull: flat-bottomed hulls are suitable for canals and non-tidal rivers. They are
often shallow-draft, and may operate in shallower water. They are cheap to build but, being less
stable and having no keel to give directional stability, they are unsuitable for sea-going vessels.
(However, large ships are almost always flat bottomed, having a suitably large draft to
overcome the problems of small flat-bottomed boats).
Displacement hulls: a displacement hull always remains partly submerged. Such a hull has a
maximum "hull speed" which is a function of its waterline length. An exception is the
catamaran, whose twin hulls are usually so fine that they do not engender a bow wave.
Planing hulls: planing hulls have a shape that allows the boat to rise out of the water as the
speed increases. Sail boats that plane are typical V-shaped at the bows and flat-bottomed aft.
Hydroplanes are very light, flat bottomed, high powered speed boats that plane easily on flat
water, but they become unstable in rough water. Powerboats designed for rough water are
usually deep V-bottomed with a deadrise angle of about 20-23 degrees. The most common
form is to have at least one chine to allow for stability when cornering and for a supportive
surface on which to ride while planing. Planing hulls allow much higher speeds to be achieved,
as they are not limited by the waterline length the way displacement hulls are. Planing hulls
need sufficient power to "reach the plane", after which the lack of drag allows high speeds yet
with reduced power consumption.

Glossary
Anchor: a device for holding a boat to the seabed, typically
with chain and rode. Traditional anchors include the
fisherman, Danforth, and plough types (such as the "CQR"
and "Delta"). Recently, far more effective anchors with
more reliable holding include the "Rocna" and the "Ultra",
both of which are spade anchors.
Bitts: a pair of short strong posts of wood or steel on the
deck of a boat intended to take mooring lines. Also called
"bollards".
Boat building in Greece
Bilge: the lowest part of the interior of a hull. Water, fuel
tanks, ballast, and heavy stores are variously placed in the
bilge to lower the craft's centre of gravity.
Bilge keels: a pair of short keels fitted on either side of the
hull. Less hydro-dynamically efficient than a fin keel, they
have a shallower draft. Full-length bilge keels add rigidity
to a hull. Bilge keel craft are found in areas with large tidal
ranges to keep the vessel upright when dried out.
Bilge pump: a manual or electric pump for draining the
bilge. Set at the lowest point, its inlet is protected by a
screen to minimize blockages.
Side view of the wooden frame
Block: a pulley used to give a line a fair lead and multiply
its hauling power. Single and double sheave blocks are
common, triple rare.
Bobstay: a stay attached between the stem and outer end of a bowsprit to prevent it from rising
under the tension of sail.
Bow: The forward end of a watercraft.
Bowsprit: a spar that extends forward of the stem to provide an anchor for a jib.
Breasthook: A roughly triangular component located immediately aft of the stem and between
the inwales, sheer clamps, or rails of a small boat.
Bulkhead: internal transverse walls dividing a hull.
Bulwarks: topsides which extend above the deck, often capped with a rail and fitted with
scuppers.
Cam cleat: a mechanical device for holding a line fast between two spring-loaded jaws.
Catheads: timbers protruding approximately at right angles from the foredeck to support an
anchor outboard of the hull.
Capstan a vertical winch secured to the foredeck, used primarily to hoist an anchor.
Carlin: a longitudinal strip parallel to, but inboard of, the inwale (sheer clamp) for supporting the
inboard edge of the side deck and the side of the cabin cladding.
Chainplate: a metal bracket through-bolted through the hull for anchoring a shroud.
Centreboard: (also dagger board) a movable keel which may be raised and lowered to
accommodate shallow water and point of sail. It is held in place within a centerboard trunk.
Chine: the part of a hull at the turn of the bilge. It may be "hard" (i.e. sharply angled) or "soft"
(gradually contoured). A chine made of a single timber is known as a chine log.
Cleat: a fitting designed to tie off lines. The most common form has a central anchor point and
opposing protrusions for taking turns of a line. Also cam and jam cleats.
Coaming: any vertical surface on a ship designed to deflect or prevent entry of water
Cockpit: the seating area aft in a small decked vessel where the helm is.
Counter stern: a stern rising well above the waterline ending in a point or rounded contour
rather than a vertical transom. A variation is the "truncated counter".
Companionway: a passage, fitted with either steps or a ladder, for transiting between decks.
Crosstree: a form of spreader mounted athwarts a mast for attaching or tensioning shrouds or
stays.
Deck: a structure covering part or all of a hull, supported by beams.
Deck beam: A beam for supporting the deck.
Dolphin striker: a short downward-facing spar fitted mid-way along a bowsprit to tension the
bobstay.
Dorade: a ventilation intake consisting of a pivoting cowling atop a deck mounted self-draining
box, named after the 1931 yacht Dorade where it was first used.
Epoxy resin: a two-part thermosetting polymer increasingly used in modern wooden boat
building variously as an adhesive, filler (admixed with other materials), and a moisture-resistant
barrier in hull and deck construction, sometimes applied in conjunction with reinforcing cloths
such as fibreglass, kevlar or carbon fibre.
Fairlead: a deck fitting for redirecting a line and minimizing chafe.
Fiddle (or fiddle rail). a low rail on a counter, stove, or table for preventing items from sliding off
when the boat is heeled at sea. Catamarans have less need than monohulls for fiddles.
Freeboard: the part of the hull between the waterline and deck of a vessel.
Furling headsail: a jib or other headsail attached to a rotating mechanism that furls and unfurls
it, manually or automatically.
Garboard: the strake immediately on either side of the keel.
Gimbal: a device that allows a stove or compass to self-level by pivoting in two horizontal
planes simultaneously.
Gooseneck: a pivoting metal fitting that joins a boom to a mast. Many goosenecks can be
adjusted to trim the luff of a sail.
Grab rail: an extended horizontal handhold, usually atop a cabin.
Gudgeon: the female part of a pintle-and-gudgeon pivot or hinge, characteristically used to
attach a rudder to a vessel.
Gunwale: (pronounced "gunnel") the upper longitudinal structural member of the hull, typically
fitted with scuppers to drain the deck.
Hatch: an opening in the deck or cabin of a vessel, with a hinged, sliding, or removable cover.
Heads: a marine toilet, deriving from toileting at the catsheads in square rigger days.
Hull: the bottom and sides of a vessel.
Inwale (or "sheer clamp"): the upper, inner longitudinal structural member of the hull, to which
topside panels are fixed.
Keel: the main structural member of a traditional vessel, running fore and aft from bow to stern
on its centerline. It provides ballast for stability, and resistance to leeway moving through the
water.
Keelson: an internal beam fixed to the top of the keel to strengthen the joint of the upper
members of the boat to the keel.
King plank: the central board of a foredeck. Its sides are notched to receive the tapered forward
ends of deck planking so that no end grain is exposed.
Knee: a short L shaped piece of wood that joins or strengthens the joint in boat parts that meet
between roughly 60 and 120 degrees. It may be a natural crook from a suitable wood species,
sawn from a larger piece of timber, or laminated to size. Commonly used on thwarts to join
topsides or keelsons to join transoms. A hanging knee sits upright beneath a thwart to support
it. Hanging knees often support carlins where a full frame would be inconvenient.
Locker: an enclosed storage space
Mast: a large vertical spar which supports the sails. It may be supported by standing rigging, but
some rigs (such a junks) have unstayed masted.
Mast step: a socket to take the downward thrust of the mast and hold it in position. May be on
the keel or on the deck in smaller craft. A deck-stepped mast may be supported by a column
below the deck.
Mizzen: the aftmost mast and sail in a yawl or ketch, or in a vessel with three or more masts.
Oar a wooden pole enlarged on one end to resist the water when pulled.
Painter: a short line at the bow of a small boat for tying it off.
Parrot beak: a spring-loaded stainless steel fitting on the end of a spinnaker pole attaching it to
the sail.
Pintle: the male half of a pintle-and-gudgeon pivot or hinge.
Ratlines (traditionally ratlins): lines woven horizontally between the shrouds of a square-rigged
ship to provide footholds for ascending to the yards.
Rib: a thin strip of pliable timber laid athwarts inside a hull from inwale to inwale at regular
close intervals to reinforce its planking. Ribs differ from frames or futtocks in being far smaller
dimensions and bent in place compared to frames or futtocks, which are normally sawn to
shape, or natural crooks that are shaped to fit with an adze, axe or chisel.
Rigging: standing rigging (either "stays" or shrouds") are the wire cables or rods that support
the mast(s). Running rigging are the ropes ("sheets") to control the sails.
Rowlock (pronounced "rollock";(also "oarlock"): a 'U' shaped metal device that secures an oar
and acts as a fulcrum during the motion of rowing.
Rudder: a hinged vertical plate at the stern for steering a craft. There may be more than one
rudder.
Sampson post: a strong vertical post which supports a ship's windlass and the heel of its
bowsprit, also used to making off mooring lines.
Scuppers: gaps in the bulwarks permitting water to drain off the deck.
Shackle: a U-shaped fitting secured by a removable pin for securely connecting chains, lines,
and other fittings. Known as a "snap shackle" when fitted with a spring-loaded pin.
Sheave box: a plastic or stainless steel box that holds a pulley that is fixed in position as on a
mast head.
Sheer: the generally curved shape of the upper hull. It is traditionally lowest amidships to
maximize freeboard at the ends of the hull. Sheer can be reverse, higher in the middle to
maximize space inside, or straight or a combination of shapes.
Sheet: a line which controls the clew of a sail.
Skeg: a vertical blade beneath the hull, typically to support and protect the rudder and to
promote the rudder's efficiency by preventing "stalling".
Spar: s length of timber, aluminium, steel or carbon fibre of approximately round or pear shaped
cross-section which supports a sail or sails. Spars include the mast, boom, gaff, yard, bowsprit,
prod, boomkin, pole and dolphin striker.
Sole: the floor of a cabin or cockpit.
Spinnaker (or "kite"): a large, lightweight, down-wind sail used on fore and aft rigged yachts
such as sloops to dramatically increase sail area typically used running with the wind.
Spring: the amount of fore and aft curvature in the keel.
Stanchions: a post for holding life lines on a deck.
Stainless steel: a corrosion-resistant alloy of mild steel and small percentages of such metals
as copper, chromium, molybdenum, and nickel. Common alloys are "18/8" (known as "surgical
stainless steel") and "316" ("marine grade"), which contains more salt-water resistant nickel.
Stays/shrouds: standing or running rigging which holds a spar in position (e.g. forestay,
backstay, bobstay). Formerly made of rope, typically of braided stainless steel wire,
occasionally solid metal rod.
Stem: a continuation of the keel upwards at the bow where the two sides of the hull meet.
 Stern: the aftmost part of a boat, often ending in a transom.
Stern sheets a flat area or deck, inboard of the transom in a small boat. It may contain hatches
to access below decks or provide storage on deck for life saving equipment.
Strake: planking, running from the "garboard" strake affixed to the keel to the "sheer" strake
below the caprail.
Stringer (also "batten"): a long relatively thin, knot free length of wood, running fore and aft,
often used to reinforce planking on the inside of the hull.
Synthetic rope: lines manufactured from chained chemicals. The four most common are:
polyester (including brand names Dacron and Terylene), a strong, low stretch line, usually
plaited (braided) used for running rigging; nylon, a strong but elastic line resistant to shock
loads, best suited for mooring lines and anchor warps. It is usually laid (twisted) so to make it
easier to grip when hauling; polypropylene, a light, cheap, slippery, buoyant line, typically laid,
which is by far the weakest of the four, and deteriorates when exposed to sunlight. Commonly
used on commercial fishing boats using nets; and Kevlar, an extremely strong and expensive
fibre with almost no stretch, usually braided and best suited for halyards.
Taff rail: a railing at the extreme stern of a vessel.
Thwart: a transverse member used to maintain the shape of the topsides of a small boat, often
doubling as a seat.
Tiller: a forward-facing attached to the rudder allowing a helmsman to steer a boat. On a dinghy,
the tiller may have a hinged extension called a "jigger".
Toe rail: an upright longitudinal strip of wood surrounding a deck near the sheer, especially
forward, for safety and to provide purchase when a boat is heeled.
Topping Lift: a line running from a cleat on the mast through a block at the masthead and down
to the aft end of a boom for supporting the boom when not in use or when reefing.
Topsides: the side planking of a boat from the waterline to the sheerstrake.
Transom: a vertical part of the hull at the stern. Transoms provide width and additional
buoyancy at the stern. Dinghies may attach an outboard motor to the transom.
Warp: anchor line, traditionally made of stiff natural fibre such as hemp, today of stronger,
lighter, synthetic fibres such as laid nylon, prized for its elasticity in absorbing shock loads on
an anchor.
Winch: a geared device providing both friction and mechanical advantage in sail trimming,
hoisting large sails, and retrieving an anchor. Some winches are self-tailing, allowing efficient
one-man usage, others electrically powered.
Wind pennant: a small pivoting masthead wind indicator.
Yard: a horizontal spar on a square rigged ship fitted to the forward side of a mast, holding a
square sail forward of the shrouds. An extension to the yard is the "yard-arm".

Gallery
Traditional boat building in India
 Boat construction underway
at Bheemunipatnam[19]

Traditional wooden boat building in Vietnam. Photos taken January 2009.

Small boatyard horizontal Small boat using the planks Boat nearing completion
band saw, Hội An first method, Hội An with frames added, Hội An

Plank on frame construction, Almost completed offshore Plank fixing, trenails and red
Quy Nhơn fishing hull, Quy Nhơn lead paint, Quy Nhơn

Repaired frames, barge hull,

Sa Đéc, Mekong Delta
See also
Boat building tools
Center for Wooden Boats
Lofting
Marine propulsion
Sail-plan
Shipbuilding

References
1. Boat Plans and Boatbuilding Tutorials (https://www.edumaritime.net/maritime-store/boatbuildin
g-plans-and-tutorials)
2. Chapelle, Howard Irving (1994). Boatbuilding: A Complete Handbook of Wooden Boat
Construction (https://books.google.com/books?id=OkCNFCYSl_EC&q=FAST+boat+constructi
on). W. W. Norton & Company. ISBN 978-0-393-03554-4.
3. Zeilen:Van beginner tot gevorderde by Karel Heijnen
4. "FSC certification" (http://www.nrdc.org/land/forests/woodguide.asp). Nrdc.org. Retrieved
2012-06-14.
5. Horridge, Adrian (2006). "The Austronesian Conquest of the Sea - Upwind". In Bellwood,
Peter; Fox, James J.; Tryon, Darrell (eds.). The Austronesians: Historical and Comparative
Perspectives. ANU E Press. pp. 143–160. doi:10.22459/a.09.2006.07 (https://doi.org/10.2245
9%2Fa.09.2006.07). ISBN 9781920942854.
6. Manguin, Pierre‐Yves (23 August 2019). "Sewn Boats of Southeast Asia: the stitched‐plank
and lashed‐lug tradition". International Journal of Nautical Archaeology. 48 (2): 400–415.
doi:10.1111/1095-9270.12367 (https://doi.org/10.1111%2F1095-9270.12367).
7. Horridge, Adrian (2008). "Origins and Relationships of Pacific Canoes and Rigs" (http://adrian-
horridge.org/downloads/Pacific%20canoes.pdf) (PDF). In Di Piazza, Anne; Pearthree, Erik
(eds.). Canoes of the Grand Ocean. BAR International Series 1802. Archaeopress.
ISBN 9781407302898.
8. "Carvel Planking for Boats, Sailboats: Richard Joyce Montana Tech" (http://notablemath.weebl
y.com/carvel-planking.html). Notablemath.weebly.com. Retrieved 2012-06-14.
9. Oughtred, Iain (2000). Clinker Plywood Boatbuilding Manual (https://archive.org/details/clinkerp
lywoodbo00iain). WoodenBoat Books. pp. 2 (https://archive.org/details/clinkerplywoodbo00iai
n/page/n9). ISBN 978-0-937822-61-6.
10. "Planking Methods Comparison" (https://web.archive.org/web/20101123155407/http://gartsideb
oats.com/faq2.php). Gartsideboats.com. 2010-11-23. Archived from the original (http://gartsideb
oats.com/faq2.php) on 2010-11-23. Retrieved 2012-06-14.
11. "Ply on Frame construction" (https://web.archive.org/web/20120305183809/http://www.boatbuil
ding.net/article.pl?sid=07%2F10%2F17%2F1655255). Boatbuilding.net. Archived from the
original (http://www.boatbuilding.net/article.pl?sid=07/10/17/1655255) on 2012-03-05.
Retrieved 2012-06-14.
12. "Stitch and glue subdivision of sheet plywood method" (http://www.glen-l.com/resources/glossa
ry.html). Glen-l.com. Retrieved 2012-06-14.
13. "Benefits of stitch and glue" (http://www.boatbuilder.org/stitchandglue.htm). Boatbuilder.org.
Retrieved 2012-06-14.
14. "European Dinghies build by amateur builders" (http://bearfacemedia.co.uk/European_Dinghie
s.aspx). Bearfacemedia.co.uk. Retrieved 2012-06-14.
15. "Vaurien amateur building" (https://web.archive.org/web/20090502141046/http://www.clubsnau
tiques.com/vaurien/txt_angl.htm). Clubsnautiques.com. 2009-05-02. Archived from the original
(http://www.clubsnautiques.com/vaurien/txt_angl.htm) on 2009-05-02. Retrieved 2012-06-14.
16. ″The Gougeon Brothers on Boat Construction, Wood and West System Materials″
17. Cold moulding website (http://wiki.dtonline.org/index.php/Cold_Moulding)
18. "Welding, hot-riveting or drilling of plates" (http://www.osha.gov/SLTC/shipbuildingrepair/fabric
ating.html). Osha.gov. Retrieved 2012-06-14.
19. "Sulkha shipyard" (http://www.sulkhashipyard.in/About.html). Sulkhashipyard.in. Retrieved
2012-06-14.

External links
WoodenBoat Publications (http://www.woodenboat.com/)—publisher of construction plans and
techniques for traditional boat building methods.
A website for the home boat builder (http://www.amateurboatbuilding.com/).

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