p.

Band Bottom
Cutting
 This process is to cut
back of band cleanly
leaving 3/16 inch surplus
for collar attaches
sewing.
 Back of band should be
cut with a constant
width.
 Back of band back
should be cut with a
constant width.
 Bottom of band back
should be cut accurately
from one end to the
other.

q. Collar Position
Marking
 This process is to mark
at 3 points of the band
which is quarter divided
to maintain the collar
balance and accuracy
with gimlet, pencil or
chalk for collar attach
sewing.
r. Button Hole Sewing
 Sew at upper front side
of band.
 Put collar as the front
might be seen.
 Sew on the horizontal
line of the band.
 Knife and gear are
changed according to
the hole size.
 Draw the line passing
both points of band and
measure the half of top-
center length form the
edge point of band and
sew button hole.
 Determining the point
as hole end where the
vertical line from the
measured point and
band center line are
crossed.

s. Button Attach
Sewing
 Sew at the lower front
side of band.
 Put collar as the back
might be seen.
 Button hole and button
should be straight.
 Sew at least 8 times per
1 hole.
 Thread should be
matched to the button
color.
 Broken button should
not be sewed.
t. Counting.
 This process is to classify
in each size and record
the production quantity
per hour and to supply
collar to the body
section for attaching
with the body of shirt.

10.13.2 The
Explanation of Cuff
Process

a. Cuff Rolling
 This process is to put
front and interlining into
folder and sew them
 Sew them ¼ inch width
consistently.
 Roll them accurately,
especially at the
beginning and ending
parts.
 Do not allow floating,
slip-out and puckering.
b. Cuff Rolling
 This process is to put
the rolled front precisely
on to the back and sew
them along the curve or
square of the edge to
the accurate in form.
 Fit them accurately.
 Sew them ¼ inch width.
 Do not allow puckering.

c. Cuff Finishing
 This process is to fit
front and back precisely
and break the sewn line
completely with a gimlet
to make the edge of it
sharp and then iron it.
 The form of the edge
should be accurate.
 Temperature of the iron
is changed according to
the cloth.
 Turning and finishing are
done in one process.
d. Cuff Stitching
 This process is to stitch
along the edge of the
cuff with a constant
width to form it.
 Sew with the width as
directed.
 Beginning and finishing
should be accurate.
 Stitching should not be
over the rolled line.
 Stitching should be done
every 3 to 5 stitches.

e. Cuff Button Hole

Stitching
 Button hole end should
be located at a point ½
to ¾ inch distance from
the end of cuff.
 If one button, sew at
center. If two button,
sew after dividing into 3
parts.
 Sew button hole should
be sewn cleanly and
well.
 Left and right hole
should be distinguished..
f. Cuff Button Attach
Stitching
 Button center should be
located at a point ½ to ¾
inch distance from the
end of cuff.
 If one button sew at
center. If two buttons,
sew after dividing into 3
parts.
 Button and hole should
be straight.
 Insure there are no
broken buttons.
 Button should be sewn
firmly.
 Sew at least 8 times per
one hole.
 Thread should match
button color.

10.13.3 The
Explanation of Body
Process

a. Top-center
 This process is to put
upper front and
interlining into the
folder and stitch them.
 Interlining width should
be accurate.
 Take care when stitching
start and finish.
 Both side [start and
finish] widths should be
the same as directed.
 Front and interlining
should not be crumpled
or wrinkle.
  Floating and slip-out
should not occur.
 Do not allow puckering.
 Men’s and ladies should
be distinguished, if
men’s stitch from the
bottom, if ladies, stitch
form the top of front.

b. Over-locking
 This process is to over-
lock the edge of lower
front to prevent fraying.
 Stitching should be done
well.
 Stitch should be
consistent.
 When over-locking, cut it
accurately, not to be
short of spec.
 Stitch width should be
accurate and constant.
 Over-locked threads
should not come out
from the cloth.

c. Pocket Over-locking
 This process is to over-
lock the upper part of
pocket.
 Stitching should be done
well.
 Stitch should be
consistent.
 Stitch width should be
accurate.
 Cut it accurately not to
be short of spec.
d. Button Hole Stitching
 This process is to sew
button hole together
with cutting using a
special machine.
 Sew on the upper front.
 Sew on the center of
front placket [top-
center] using gauge.
 In the case of plain front
and if it is men’s sew at
¾ inch distance from the
edge. If it is boys keep at
5/8 inch distance from
the edge.
 Sew by regular intervals.
 Certify the number of
button holes.
 Certify stitches and size
of hole.
 Trimming should be
done cleanly.
 The length of knife is
changed accordingly to
the hole size.

e. Button Attach
Stitching
 Sew on the lower front
from the center of
button hole using gauge.
 Sew at least 8 times per
one hole, so that it is not
loose.
 Certify number and size.
 Thread should match
button color.
 Lower front gusset
should be folded
accurately and
consistently.
  Thread should not be
loose.
 Bad buttons should not
be sewed.

f. Pocket Folding
 Fold pocket using dies
and folding paper.
 Fold in order.
 Spec should be