Wish and hope

A pattern from Anne B Hanssen Design

Happy knitting😊😊

1
Sizes
Age Chest Length
6- 9 months 46cm/18” 26cm/10.25”
1 year to 18 months 55cm/21.5” 33cm/13”
2 – 3 years 62cm/24. 5” 37cm/14.5”
4 – 5 years 70cm/27.5” 41cm/16”

The above measurements are finished measurements after blocking and worked at gauge.
Keep in mind that children differs much individually in size.
To decide upon which size to work take a chest measurement of the child and/or a favorite cardigan.
A schematic is found in page 7. You might add length to lower body/sleeves (count for more yarn).

Materials
Yarn: I used Madelinetosh Tosh Merino Light, a fingering weight yarn, to work the cardigan.
This yarn comes in skeins of 384m/420yards. You will need 1/2/2/2 skeins of this specific yarn.
Needles: you need 1 circular needle, 80cm/32” long, size 2.75mm/US2, and a set of dpns 2.75mm/US2.
Please note that the needle size is a suggestion only, you need to choose size to obtain gauge.
Notions: 2 removable stitch-markers (or more, if you want to place stitch-markers between each pattern-
repeat of the hem), 7 (or more) buttons to match the buttonholes, tapestry needle, blocking tools.

Gauge
30 sts and 36-38 rows in stockinette sts = 10x10cm/4x4”. For best results take time to check gauge.

Abbreviations
K = knit / p = purl / st/sts = stitch/stitches / RS = right side of work / yo = yarn over / p2tog = purl 2 sts
together / ssk = slip as if to knit, slip as if to knit, place the slipped sts on the LHN, knit / sl2k1psso = slip 2 sts
knitwise, knit one, pass the slipped sts over / m1l = make 1 st leftwise: pick up the bar between the stitch you
knit and the one you’re about to knit, bringing the needle from front to back. Then knit into the back of this
stitch / m1r: make 1 st rightwise: pick up the bar between the last stitch you knit and the one you’re about to
knit, bringing the needle from the back to the front. Then knit into the front of this stitch
wt = wrap and turn: place the yarn in front of work, place the following st on your RHN without knitting it,
place the yarn behind this st and behind work, replace the st to the LHN. Turn and work in the opposite
direction

Knitting instructions
The cardigan is knit in the following order:

- The lower body is worked bottom up and flat, starting from a ribbed hem, followed by one repeat of
the lace-pattern around the hem. After the first repeat of the pattern one repeat of the
leaf-pattern is worked towards the opening of the fronts, stockinette st is worked between the
repeats.
At underarms work is divided for fronts and back to be continued in separate pieces to shoulder.
- Shoulders are worked together using the 3-needle bind-off method.
- Sleeves are worked top-down from picked-up sts around the armhole openings. The sleeve-cap is
created using short-rows. The main sleeve is worked in the round to bind-off.
- The neck-edge is worked back and forth from picked up sts in rib-pattern
- The buttonhole-band and buttonband are worked from picked-up sts along the fronts.

2
Cast on for lower body
Useful notes before you start.

The selvedge st: is worked as a k1 at the beginning and end of RS rows, as a p1 at the beginning and end of
WS rows. I find this edge the easiest for picking up sts for the buttonbands later.
Lower hem: you might place a marker between each pattern repeat.
If you want to work the lace-pattern towards the fronts only: follow the instructions from page 4.
Leaving work for a while: note down which was the last worked pattern row.
After dividing for fronts and back: note down which pattern row to start from when working the right front.

Cast on: using a circular needle, size 2.75/US2 cast on 132/158/184/210 sts.
You can use the longtail cast-on method, or your preferred method.

Ribbed hem:

Row 1 (RS): k3, (p2, k2), repeat (-) until 1 st rem in the row, k1
Row 2 (WS): p3, (k2, p2), repeat (-) until 1 st rem in the row, p1
Repeat rows 1 – 2 one more time (a toal of 4 rows from cast-on), end with a WS row.

Set-up row for the leaf-patterned hem – RS:

k1, (p9, k3, p4, k5, p5), work (-) a total of 5/6/7/8 times, k1

Continue work the following repeat of rows 1 – 24, work the pattern-repeat 5/6/7/8 times in the row.
The number of sts in the pattern-repeat is given in brackets at the end of each row.
Each RS row starts and ends with a k1. Each WS row starts and ends with a p1.
Row 1 (WS): (k5, p5, k4, p3, k9)(26 sts)
Row 2 (RS): (p7, p2tog, knit into front and back of next st, k2, p4, k2, yo, kl, yo, k2, p5) (28 sts)
Row 3 (WS): (k5, p7, k4, p2, k1, p1, k8) (28 sts)
Row 4(RS): (p6, p2tog, kl, purl into front and back of next st, k2, p4, k3, yo, kl, yo, k3, p5) (30 sts)
Row 5 (WS): (k5, p9, k4, p2, k2, p1, k7) (30 sts)
Row 6 (RS): (p5, p2tog, kl, purl into front and back of next st, p1, k2, p4, ssk, k5, k2tog, p5) (28 sts)
Row 7 (WS): (k5, p7, k4, p2, k3, p1, k6)(28 sts)
Row 8 (RS): (p4, p2tog, kl, purl into front and back of next st, p2, k2, p4, ssk, k3, k2tog, p5) (26 sts)
Row 9 (WS): (k5, p5, k4, p2, k4, p1, k5) (26 sts)
Row 10 (RS): (p5, yo, kl, yo, p4, k2, p4, ssk, kl, k2tog, p5) (26 sts)
Row 11 (WS): (k5, p3, k4, p2, k4, p3, k5) (26 sts)
Row 12 (RS): (p5, kl, yo, kl, yo, k1, p4, kl, m1l, kl, p2tog, p2, sl2k1p2sso, p5) (26 sts)
Row 13 (WS): (k9, p3, k4, p5, k5)(26 sts)
Row 14 (RS): (p5, k2, yo, kl, yo, k2, p4, k1, k into front and back of next st, k1, p2tog, p7) (28 sts)
Row 15 (WS): (k8, p1, k1, p2, k4, p7, k5)(28 sts)
Row 16 (RS): (p5, k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, p4, k2, purl into front and back of next st, k1, p2tog, p6) (30 sts)
Row 17 (WS): (k7, p1, k2, p2, k4, p9, k5) (30 sts)
Row 18 (RS): (p5, ssk, k5, k2tog, p4, k2, p1, purl into front and back of next st, k1, p2tog, p5) (28 sts)
Row 19 (WS): (k6, p1, k3, p2, k4, p7, k5) (28 sts)
Row 20 (RS): (p5, ssk, k3, k2tog, p4, k2, p2, purl into front and back of next st, k1, p2tog, p4) (26 sts)
Row 21 (WS): (k5, p1, k4, p2, k4, p5, k5) (26 sts)
Row 22 (RS): (p5, ssk, k1, k2tog, p4, k2, p4, yo, k1, yo, p5) (26 sts)
Row 23 (WS): (k5, p3, k4, p2, k4, p3, k5) (26 sts)
Row 24 (RS): (p5, sl2k1p2sso, p2, p2tog, k1, k1 into front and back of next st, p4, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, p5) (26 sts)

Work 1 repeat of above rows 1 – 24, ending with a RS row. End of leaf-patterned hem.

3
Section of leaf-pattern on the sides of the fronts, stockinette sts between the leaf-pattern sections.
The leaf-pattern is worked from row 1 – 24, and repeating.

Row 1 (WS): p1, work 1 repeat of leaf-pattern, pm1, p78/104/130/156, pm2, work 1 repeat of leaf-pattern, p1
Row 2 (RS): k1, work 1 repeat of leaf-pattern, sm, k78/104/130/156, sm, work 1 repeat of leaf-pattern, k1

Continue work as established in rows 1 – 2. Pattern is worked until row 24 and repeating,
until work measures 16/22/25/28cm = 6.25/8.5/10/11”. End with a WS row.

In the following RS row divide for fronts and back.

You could bind off or spare the live sts of the underarms. If you bind them off you will seam them together with
the underarm sts of the sleeves later, if you keep them as live sts you can graft them together or bind them off
together using the 3-needle bind off method with the underarm sts of the sleeves later.
RS: work the leaf pattern as established to marker, sm, k2/9/16/23, bind off or spare 4/4/6/6 sts,
k66/78/88/100 sts, bind off or spare 4/4/6/6 sts, k2, sm, work the leaf-pattern as established, k1
Seen from RS you have: 1 selvedge st, the leaf-pattern sts and 2/9/16/23 sts for right front,
66/78/88/100 sts for back, 2/9/16/23 sts, the leaf-pattern sts and 1 selvedge st for left front.
Place the sts for right front on a separate holder, place the 66/78/88/100 sts for back on a separate holder.
Continue work the sts for left front, starting from WS:

Left front:

Row 1 (WS): p2/9/16/23, sm, work the leaf-pattern as established, p1

Row 2 (RS): k1, work the leaf-pattern as established, sm, k2/9/16/23

Continue work repeating rows 1 – 2 until work measures 9.5/10/11/11.5cm = 3.75/4/4.25/4.5”,

(after dividing the work), and ending wiht a RS row.

In the following WS row bind off for neck.

It is important that you count the sts over the leaf-pattern before binding off:

If you have 26 sts over the leaf-pattern: bind off 12/16/20/24 sts, work as established to end of row
If you have 28 sts over the leaf-pattern: bind off 14/18/22/26 sts, work as established to end of row
If you have 30 sts over the leaf-pattern: bind off 16/20/24/28 sts, work as established to end of row

The following RS row: p all the sts to end

The following WS row: k all the sts to end
Repeat above 2 rows 0/1/1/2 more times (2/4/4/6 rows worked in all).
Break yarn, spare the remaining 16/19/22/25 sts on a separate needle while working the right front and back.

Right front:

Start work from WS.

Row 1 (WS): p1, work the leaf-pattern as established, sm, p2/9/16/23

Row 2 (RS): k2/9/16/23, sm, work the leaf-pattern as established, k1

Continue work repeating rows 1 – 2 until work measures 9.5/10/11/11.5cm = 3.75/4/4.25/4.5”

(after dividing, and ending with the same pattern row as for left front), and ending wiht a RS row.

In the following RS row bind off for neck.

It is important that you count the sts over the leaf-pattern before binding off:

If you have 26 sts over the leaf-pattern: bind off 12/16/20/24 sts, work as established to end of row
If you have 28 sts over the leaf-pattern: bind off 14/18/22/26 sts, work as established to end of row
If you have 30 sts over the leaf-pattern: bind off 16/20/24/28 sts, work as established to end of row

4
The following WS row: k all sts
The following RS row: p all sts
Repeat above 2 rows 0/1/1/2 more times (2/4/4/6 rows worked in all). Break yarn, spare the sts on a holder.

Back:

Place the 66/78/88/100 sts from the separate holder holding the back sts on a circular (or straight) needle,
same size as previously. Start work from WS.
Row 1 (WS): p all sts, row 2 (RS): k all sts

Continue work repeating rows 1 – 2 until work left front measures 10/11/12/13cm = 4/4.25/4.75/5”
(after dividing the work), and ending wiht a RS row. Don’t break yarn. Work the shoulders together:

Place the 16/19/22/25 sts of the right front on a needle, work the sts together with the 16/19/22/25 sts of the
right side of the back, from WS, using the 3-needle bind-off method. Break and secure yarn.

Work the 16/19/22/25 sts of the left shoulder together from WS in the same way. Break and secure yarn.
Leave the remaining 34/40/44/50 sts of the back on a separate holder.

Sleeves
Starting from the shoulder join and from RS using a small circular needle (or a set of dpns), same size as used
for the body pick up and knit 24/26/30/33 sts until you reach the underarm sts, k the 4/4/6/6 underarm sts,
pick up and knit 24/26/30/33 sts until the shoulder join. Pm at the shoulder join.
The sts should be picked up 1 st from the edge.
Create the shoulder cap working short rows. You do not need to pick up the wraps.
Start work from the shoulder join, and from RS:
Row 1 (RS): sm, k8/9/10/12, wt
Row 2 (WS): p8/9/10/12, sm, p8/9/10/12, wt. From here you have no use of the marker, you can take it away.
Row 3 (RS): k until the wrapped st, k the wrapped st, k5/6/7/7, wt
Row 4 (WS): p until the wrapped st, p the wrapped st, p5/6/7/7, wt
Row 5 (RS): k until the wrapped st, k the wrapped st, k4/5/6/6, wt
Row 6 (WS): p until the wrapped st, p the wrapped st, p4/5/6/6, wt
Row 7 (RS): k until the wrapped st, k the wrapped st, k until you have knit 2 of the underarm sts, pm.

From now work is continued in stockinette sts and in the round, starting from the marker at the center of the
underarms. You have 52/56/66/72 sts in the round.

Continue work reading the specific instructions for your size:

Size 1: work in stockinette sts and without decreases until sleeve measures 14.5cm/5.75” from underarm,
ending at marker. Read further under cuff.

Sizes 2/3/4: work in stockinette sts until work measures 5cm/2” from the underarm, ending at marker.
Starting from marker work a decrease round:
Decrease round: sm, k1, k2tog, k until 3 sts remaining in the round, ssk, k1. 2 sts decreased in the round.
Repeat decrease round every 5/4/2.5cm = 2/1.5/1” 1/4/7 more times = 52/56/56 sts remaining in the round.
Continue work without further decreases until work measures 21/22.5/25.5cm = 8.25/9/10” from underarm,
ending at marker.

Cuff

Starting from marker: sm, (k2, p2), repeat (-) until marker. Work 3 more rounds in rib-pattern, as established.
Break and secure yarn.

Work the second sleeve in the same way.

5
Neck edging
Place the 34/40/44/50 sts from the separate needle holding the backs neck sts on the circular needle.
Row 1 (RS): using the left end of your circiular needle, pick up and knit 16/19/21/22 sts across right front from
edge to shoulder join, k34/40/44/50 sts over the back, pick up and knit 16/19/21/22 sts across the left front
from shoulder join to edge = 66/78/86/94 sts in the row. Sts should be picked up 1 st from the edge.
Row 2 (WS): p3, (k2, p2), repeat (-) until 1 st rem in the row, p1
Row 3 (RS): k3, (p2, k2), repeat (-) until 1 st rem in the row, k1
Repeat rows 2 and 3 one more time, ending with a RS row. Bind off all sts from WS in rib-pattern. Break yarn.

Button-band
Using a straight, or circular, same size as used for the body and with RS of left front facing.
pick up and knit 78/94/106/118 sts from the top of the neck-edge to the cast-on edge.
Row 1 (WS): (k2, p2), repeat (-) until 2 sts rem in the row, k2
Row 2 (RS): (p2, k2), repeat (-) until 2 sts rem in the row, p2
Repeat rows 1 – 2 until you have worked a total of 7 rows (ending with a WS row).
Bind off all sts in rib-pattern. Break and secure yarn.

Buttonhole band
Before starting you decide where to place the buttonholes. You can mark out the position along the front
by small pins/markers or contrasting wool
Using a straight, or circular, needle 3mm/US2.5 and with RS of right front facing,
pick up and knit 78/94/106/118 sts from the cast-on edge to the top of the neck-edge.
Row 1 (WS): (k2, p2), repeat (-) until 2 sts rem in the row, k2
Row 2 (RS): (p2, k2), repeat (-) until 2 sts rem in the row, p2
Row 3 (WS): work as row 1
Row 4 (RS): work in rib-pattern to the first buttonhole, (yo, k2tog), repeat (-) at each buttonhole position,
work in rib-pattern to end of row.
Rows 5 - 7: work in rib-pattern as established.
Bind off all sts in rib-pattern. Break and secure yarn.

Finishing
The lace-pattern comes to its best when blocked! Take care to wash and block the cardigan into
measurements, and in accordance with the instructions for the yarn you have been using.
Turn garment inside out. Work the underarm gaps according to the method chosen (seamed or grafted).
Weave in loose ends from WS as invisibly as possible. From RS set in buttons to match the buttonholes.

6
Schematic

All measurements are after blocking and worked at gauge.

A – B: side to side: 23/26,5/31/35cm = 9/10.75/12.25/13.75”

A – D: height from cast-on to underarms: 16/22/25/28cm = 6.25/8.5/10/11”

C: total circumference, buttoned: 46/55/62/70cm = 18/21.5/24.5/27.5”

A – E: total height from cast-on to shoulder: 26/33/37/41cm = 10.25/13/14.5/16”

D – E: depth of armhole: 10/11/12/13cm = 4/4.25/4.75/5”

Circumference of sleeve at widest point: 17/18.5/22/24cm = 6.75/7.25/8.5/9.5”

D – F: total length of sleeve, from underarm to bind off: 16.5/22/24/27cm = 6.5/8.5/9.5/10.5”

This pattern is copyrighted by Anne B Hanssen Design/Anne B Hanssen Design AB.

All rights reserved. This includes the photos, the charts, the instructions, the schematic.
This pattern is for personal use only. You can print this pattern but cannot distribute by hardcopy or
electronically, for free or for sale. This means very much to me, thank you for respecting😊😊