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Volume 12 • Issue 7
www.aksportingjournal.com

PUBLISHER
James R. Baker
GENERAL MANAGER
John Rusnak
EXECUTIVE EDITOR
Andy Walgamott
EDITOR
Chris Cocoles
WRITERS
Paul D. Atkins, Bjorn Dihle, Scott Haugen,
Tiffany Haugen, Brian Watkins
SALES MANAGER
Paul Yarnold
ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES
Mamie Griffin, Jim Klark, Mike Smith
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Lesley-Anne Slisko Cooper
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ADVERTISING INQUIRIES
media@media-inc.com
ON THE COVER
The rugged mountainous terrain of
Southeast Alaska offers hearty hunters a
spectacular and grueling opportunity to
chase mountain goats, as hunters Trevor
Embry (pictured) and Brian Watkins, and
their buddy Dave Moore discovered.
(BRIAN WATKINS)

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8 ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL DECEMBER 2020 | aksportingjournal.com


CONTENTS VOLUME 12 • ISSUE 7

FEATURES
42 MY ALASKAN ADVENTURES 
Our longtime contributor Paul Atkins
has shared many of his epic hunting and
fishing trips in the Last Frontier, which
became his obsession while living in
America’s Heartland. The Oklahoman
left his family – not to mention his
beloved Oklahoma State University
Cowboys football team – to chase the
dream in Alaska almost a quarter of a
century ago. Check out excerpts from
Paul’s new book, Atkins’ Alaska, which
chronicles an outdoor life in the Arctic.

60 MONSTERS, INC.  –
LAST FRONTIER STYLE
Dreamers and conspiracy theorists love
a good mythical monster story, whether
that means the Loch Ness Monster,
Bigfoot or the Yeti. Bristol Bay’s “Iliamna
Lake Monster” has some people
believing that an unknown creature
lurks just below the Southwest Alaska
lake’s surface. Bjorn Dihle chatted with
some of those hunting for the creature
for his latest Pride of Bristol Bay feature.

69 GIFTS THAT KEEP ON GIVING 


The holiday season is upon us, so for
that outdoor lover in your life looking to
socially distance in the wilderness, Scott
and Tiffany Haugen offer up some great
gift ideas. From outstanding salmon and
trout lures to a meat grinder to process

35
your big game harvest, the Haugens can
help cross off the angler or hunter on
your list. Also in their From Field to Fire
column, check out Tiffany’s tasty holiday
brunch recipe!
(BRIAN WATKINS)

ALSO IN THIS ISSUE


GRASS CHUTE GOATS 13
15
The Editor’s Note: 2020 reflections
Outdoor calendar
The COVID-19 pandemic has affected seemingly everyone in every walk of life, but 17 Protecting Wild Alaska: Pebble permit
in some cases it’s freed up time to get away and hunt. That was the case with Brian denied; mine opponents celebrate
Watkins, his hunting partner Trevor Embry and their friend Dave Moore, who was 20 A mountaineer’s memorable
laid off from his job. The trio headed to Southeast Alaska for a grueling mountain Denali climb
goat hunt. Finding billies along steep ridgelines was just one of many challenges the 57 GMU Spotlight: Hunting Southwestern
guys encountered. Alaska’s bull market, Unit 18

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permission of the publisher. Printed in U.S.A.

10 ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL DECEMBER 2020 | aksportingjournal.com


EDITOR’S NOTE

Director Mark Titus (left, with actor Mark


Harmon) inspired the editor with his new film
The Wild about Bristol Bay’s fight to stop the
Pebble Mine. It was a positive moment in an
otherwise dreary 2020. (SPIKE MAFFORD) 

L
et’s face reality: 2020 has been full aboard his vessel, Cornelia Marie, he plays worked him toward the boat – only to
of “2020 sucks” moments. No need pops to his crew in the unforgiving waters have him rush back out again … I grabbed
to rehash all the deadly, shocking, of the Bering Sea. the net and leaned over the edge in trying
appalling, pathetic and weird stuff that “Oh, their dad; their coach; their to get close enough for an easy scoop.
has defined roughly the last nine months. psychologist,” he told me. “You have to be Finally, after a game of tug ’o war, he made
But as we put a capper on this most all that stuff. Keep everyone sane, because a mistake and I was successful in getting
unusual time, I look back at our magazines if they’re not thinking about their job, the motley-colored fish on the deck.”
and can find some inspiring, exciting and they’re going to tire and maybe kill the guy
fun memories rising above all the despair. next to them.” 2020 HAS ALSO CREATED multiple Pebble
Our June Father’s Day story was Mine stories and those in Bristol Bay
IN APRIL, SCOTT HAUGEN, one-half of our written by Brian Watkins, who joined his and elsewhere fighting against the mine
From Field to Fire team, talked about his dad Tom, close friend Mark and his pop have given me some hope in not giving
love of fishing Bristol Bay’s Egegik River Mo for a Kodiak Island mountain goat in. Watching our pal Mark Titus’s new
year after year. One special place there for hunt. I remembered how my father was so documentary, The Wild, was a game-
him is Brooks Falls for its bear viewing. motivated and full of energy even well into changer. I wrote about the film in July and
“I was rewarded with the best brown his 70s on our own adventures together. Titus talked about the inspiration he had
bear shots of my life,” Haugen wrote. Now I was seeing some of that in Watkins from those he worked with on the project.
“At the height of activity, 11 brown bears discussing his father-son dynamic. “It was just me on a lot of interviews;
occupied the falls. More bears could be “My dad – again, he was 60 years old you have to give yourself over to the
seen downstream that were also fishing. at this point – was the leader of the pack,” moment and be absolutely (all in) with
The forest, surrounded by tall and lush he wrote. “He kept us going and pushed us these folks, to ask the right question or be
green grass, flourished, with endless bear along. Dad’s determination was a driving in the right spirit,” he said. “You take a lot
trails that were carved throughout the factor in our abilities to move quickly.” of that drama and that feeling of love and
landscape.” And then there was that Paul Atkins that feeling of what’s at stake, internally.
Father-son relationships also were a September piece when he fished for pike They made me more aware, awake and
theme in our magazines, and they had a in Arctic Alaska with his son, Eli. Atkins empathetic toward what’s at stake for the
dramatic impact on me after having lost wrote about Eli’s first northern. Catching a people who do live there year-round and
my dad in September 2019. fish with my dad with me on a boat or the make this their livelihood.”
In a May interview with Deadliest Catch shoreline was always a great childhood That’s just a small sample of feel-good
crabbing skipper Josh Harris, he talked to memory. moments this year. Still, it’s time for you to
me a lot about his late father Phil and how “With a tight line and a bent rod, Eli go away, 2020. -Chris Cocoles

aksportingjournal.com | DECEMBER 2020 ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL 13


OUTDOOR
CALENDAR*

Several moose hunting seasons


will open across parts of Alaska in
December. (DOMINIQUE WATTS/USFWS)

Dec. 1 Wolf season opens in Game Management Unit 2


(Prince of Wales Island)
Dec. 1 Resident antlered bull moose season opens in GMU 9C
(Alaska Peninsula; Naknek River drainage)
Dec. 1 Resident antlered bull moose season opens in GMU 9E
(Alaska Peninsula)
Dec. 1 Caribou season opens in GMU 14A and 14B (Mat-Su
Valley)
Dec. 1 Resident anterless moose season opens in GMU 14A
(Mat-Su Valley)
Dec. 1 Resident antlered bull moose season opens in GMU 17B
and 17C (Bristol Bay) Note: May be announced
Dec. 1 Moose season opens in GMU 18 (Yukon-Kuskokwim
Delta)
Dec. 1 Antlerless moose season opens in GMU 20B
(Fairbanks-Central Tanana, within Creamer’s Field
Migratory Waterfowl Refuge)
Dec. 1 Resident moose season opens in GMU 20F (Fairbanks-
Central Tanana, Yukon River drainage downstream from
but not including Hess Creek drainage and excluding
Tanana River drainage)
Dec. 15 Resident antlered bull moose season opens in GMU 9B,
9C and 9D (Alaska Peninsula)
Dec. 15 Various moose seasons open in GMU 14 (Joint Base
Elmendorf Richardson Management Area)

For more information and season dates for Alaska hunts, go to adfg
.alaska.gov/index.cfm?adfg=hunting.main.
Note: Check with local contacts on events that could be postponed/
cancelled due to the COVID-19 pandemic.

aksportingjournal.com | DECEMBER 2020 ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL 15


PROTECTING
WILD ALASKA

FEDS BLOCK
PEBBLE MINE PERMIT
BY CHRIS COCOLES 

T
he roller coaster ride that is the
Pebble Mine saga took an exhila-
rating turn for one side of the fight,
and a painful loop-the-loop for another.
On Nov. 25, the U.S. Army Corps of En-
gineers announced it would reject a pro-
posed Bristol Bay gold and copper mine
that critics argued could devastate the
region’s massive salmon runs.
The Corps reversed course after an Au-
gust release of its Environmental Impact
Statement that would have green-lighted
a scaled-down mine – provided the Pebble
Limited Partnership and parent company
Northern Dynasty Minerals came up with
a mitigation plan to help prevent damage
to Bristol Bay’s vast wetlands.
In his agency’s record of decision, Col.
Damon Delarosa, Corps of Engineers
Alaska district commander, concluded The bedrock underneath Bristol Bay’s vast network of salmon-filled waters is rich in gold
that the mine’s overall scope was not up and copper deposits, but at least for now a mining permit has been rejected by the Presi-
to federal Clean Water Act standards and dent Trump-led U.S. Army Corps of Engineers. (ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION AGENCY) 
the potential threat to the ecosystem.
“I have concluded that the benefits of WELCOME NEWS FOR MINE OPPONENTS Bristol Bay-area lodge owners Nanci
the proposed elimination and alteration From lodge owners to the fishing industry, Morris Lyon and Brian Kraft depend on
of wetlands, streams and other waters from Alaskans to out-of-staters, the fight salmon, trout and other aquatic delights
within the (Army Corps) jurisdiction do to stop Pebble Mine seemingly is an end- that attract anglers from around the world.
not outweigh the detriments that would less loop of protests. So while the release Morris Lyon, whose family operates
be caused by such eliminations and al- of a somewhat unfavorable EIS in August Bear Trail Lodge, said she was “relieved
terations, based upon the information was distressing, the permit getting the and thankful” for the news, while Kraft’s
contained in the FEIS, the extensive pub- heave-ho offered a reason to be grateful, reaction reflected the long battle he and
lic comments received, and the analysis and fittingly it came the day before the others have fought to block the mine.
of the public interest review factors,” Thanksgiving holiday. “Thousands of us have looked forward
Delarosa wrote at the end of the 29- “Good riddance. The opposition to to this day for well over a decade,” said the
page document. this project from all corners of the polit- Alaska Sportsman’s Lodge owner. “Ku-
(Find it at pebbleprojecteis.com.) ical spectrum runs strong and deep. The dos to this administration for seeing this
“As those eliminations and alterations process has played out, and the science project for what it was – a half-baked and
would be necessary to realize any benefits is clear. There is no way this ill-conceived risky proposal that does not belong in the
from the proposed project, I have found project can coexist with Bristol Bay salm- heart of Bristol Bay. This is a good day. We
that the proposed project is contrary to on,” said a blunt Nelli Williams, Alaska di- should all celebrate and be thankful today,
the public interest.” rector of Trout Unlimited. and get ready to achieve long-term pro-

aksportingjournal.com | DECEMBER 2020 ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL 17


PROTECTING
WILD ALASKA

With so much at stake for the fishing indus-


try, both lodge owners and Native leaders in
Bristol Bay were encouraged that their fight
to block the mine took another positive step.
“Pebble is not welcome in Bristol Bay,” Bear
Trail Lodge owner Nanci Morris Lyon said.
“Now we can work toward the future without
the shadow of Pebble hanging over our heads.
(THOMAS QUINN/UNIVERSITY OF WASHINGTON)  

tections next.” larly when the EIS seemed mostly favor- plummeted by over 50 percent after the
That said, for some the mood right able when it was released in August of an news of the permit rejection broke, will take
now seems to be one of cautious opti- election year. But Trump’s son Donald Jr., after this potentially devastating setback to
mism given the back-and-forth battles an outdoorsman who fished Bristol Bay its project’s viability.
among the principles and the uncertainty as a guest of Bear Trail Lodge’s Morris But it’s the complete opposite mojo for
of future plans. Lyon, publicly opposed the mine, as did those who have worked tirelessly to help
“Sometimes a project is so bad, so in- other conservative voices in Washington, protect the waters of what is considered
defensible, that the politics fall to the way- not to mention increasing pushback from the “world’s last great sockeye salmon fish-
side and we get the right decision. But de- Alaska’s U.S. senators, Lisa Murkowski ery,” including Alaska Sporting Journal since
nial of a permit does not mean Bristol Bay and Dan Sullivan. we began publication 10 years ago. One of
is safe from the threat of the Pebble Mine,” The Corps’ record of decision was a the most vocal opposition against the mine
warned SalmonState executive director crushing blow for the mine’s chances of has been the United Tribes of Bristol Bay,
Tim Bristol. “The critical next step is to re- being dug anytime soon, particularly with whose Native people have fished these
establish the Clean Water Act protections the November victory of President-elect pristine waters over multiple generations.
for America’s greatest salmon fishery – Joe Biden. Indeed, Northern Dynasty’s UTBB board president Robert Heyano
protections that should have never been reaction to getting spurned included the summed up the joy that, at least for now,
done away with in the first place. This argument that it was “politically motivat- these waters and the fish that return there
can and should be an early priority for the ed.” The irony there is that Collier boast- will remain protected.
Biden administration.” ed about having Republican support “The people of Bristol Bay have long
when the “Pebble Tapes” were secretly known that our home is no place for a mine
DECISION ‘POLITICALLY MOTIVATED’ recorded and released. like Pebble. Today, we celebrate the appro-
When the news broke about the mine’s “For the United States to turn its back priate action taken by the USACE in finally
permit being rejected, it capped a tumul- on an opportunity to develop these min- acknowledging this underlying truth: Peb-
tuous fall for the Pebble Limited Partner- erals here at home in a manner that U.S. ble’s proposal is too toxic for our region and
ship and its lead company, Northern Dy- regulators have agreed is environmen- cannot be built without devastating the en-
nasty Minerals. Pebble Partnership CEO tally safe and responsible, and to do so vironment that sustains our cultures and
Tom Collier resigned after incriminating for purely political reasons, is not just communities,” Heyano said. “But our work
videotaped conversations surfaced. short-sighted,” said Northern Dynasty is not done. We will continue to advocate
It was believed that the heavy Republi- president and CEO Ron Thiessen. “It’s for permanent protections for Bristol Bay
can influence both in Alaska and under the self-destructive.” until we are sure that our pristine lands and
administration of President Donald Trump It’s unknown the extent of appeals waters will remain intact for our children’s
would benefit the Pebble group, particu- Northern Dynasty, whose stock prices children and all future generations.” ASJ

18 ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL DECEMBER 2020 | aksportingjournal.com


aksportingjournal.com | DECEMBER 2020 ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL 19
Jake Norton, now 46 years old, has scaled
some of the world’s highest and most
dangerous peaks, but the Colorado resident
says few of his ascents have been more
challenging than his 1995 climb of Alaska’s
Denali, the highest spot in North America at
over 20,300 feet. (JAKE NORTON)

20 ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL DECEMBER 2020 | aksportingjournal.com


ON TOP
OF ALASKA
MOUNTAINEER JAKE NORTON ON HIS ASCENT OF
DENALI, PEAKS ACROSS THE GLOBE

BY CHRIS COCOLES 

I
f you wanted to boil Jake Norton’s life impressive. home country. That was pretty amazing
down to a single sentence, it might be While he had a passionate connection and powerful,” he says.
this one: He really likes to get on top of to Mount Everest – he’s made multiple “I think the summit of Everest is always
things. Literally. trips there to either reach the world’s irrationally built up in one sense that you’re
A world-class mountain climber and highest summit or help solve an almost going to get up there and there is going to
guide, there are few daunting summits century-old mystery that could change be cerebral trumpets and epiphanies. And
on the globe the 46-year-old Colorado the history books forever – his successful I find there’s not. It really is just a patch
resident hasn’t scaled, including North scaling of Denali had its own special of snow along the way. And Denali is not
America’s tallest peak, Alaska’s famed symbolism. For Norton, who’s scaled built up in that same apocryphal beautiful
Denali (Mount McKinley). From South peaks around the world, a successful way. You get there and you can just enjoy
America’s massive Mount Aconcagua Alaska summit was a home game of sorts. (it). You’re not expecting some biblical
to Africa’s iconic Kilimanjaro and literally “It was my first really big mountain insight to come to you.”
the top of the world, Mount Everest, that I had summited and my first Yet mighty Mount Everest still
Norton’s list of successful climbs is continental high point, and it was in my impacted Norton, who has elevated to

aksportingjournal.com | DECEMBER 2020 ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL 21


The weather extremes and lack of support
make Denali in some ways as difficult if not
more of a challenge to ascend than Everest.
“It’s a punishing but beautiful, incredible
mountain,” Norton says. (JAKE NORTON)   

its sacred ground as the highest spot on series known as Undiscovered. that found the remains of Mallory, a far
Earth. But the mountain also holds the Norton led an expedition to Everest more experienced climber than Irvine.
kind of secrets that have turned him into a in 2019 to find further evidence of what But two major questions remained
bit of a mountaineering Sherlock Holmes. happened to Mallory and Irvine. What as Norton and a team returned to
we knew already: They both died on the mountain last year: Where is
IN 1953, NEW ZEALANDER Edmund Hillary the mountain, which over the years has Irvine’s body, and did the pair or either
– he’d soon be known as Sir Edmund become a tragic toll of trying to conquer one actually make it to the summit?
Hillary for the rest of his life – and Earth’s highest spot (there have been Observers at the time confirmed that
Sherpa mountaineer Tenzing Norgay roughly 300 deaths of Everest climbers, they did get within striking distance of
successfully reached the summit of the with almost annual fatalities). the 29,029-foot summit. But with several
world’s highest peak, Nepal/China’s Norton has found himself literally short but treacherous spots known as the
Mount Everest, and lived to tell their tale climbing over the bodies of the dead First, Second and Third Steps ahead of
after also making the dangerous descent climbers who either failed to reach the them, it’s possible that the men died just
from the top of the world. top or perished making the even more shy of the top.
But while historians likely won’t dangerous descent, when draining “There are always things left undone
ever diminish Hillary’s and Norgay’s oxygen levels and exhaustion can be and more to do,” Norton says. “I think
accomplishments, it’s possible two fatal. what I always come back to – with the
climbers preceded the 1953 Everest “On the one hand it is gruesome, story of Mallory and Irvine, which is
conquest by almost 30 years. For but I find there’s a beauty within the something I’ve been fascinated with since
Norton, getting to the bottom of the tragedy of those lives lost … I find some I began climbing in the mid-1980s – it’s
mystery of the 1924 fate of George solace in the human remains can tell a really who these guys were, regardless of
Mallory and Andrew “Sandy” Irvine story and leave these less than subtle whether or not they summited (Everest)
consumed him for the better part of 20 reminders of our own mortality,” he … They were such a different breed of
years. In October, a Discovery Channel says. “And keep our egos in check and explorer and climber.”
documentary, Everest’s Greatest Mystery, make us safe, hopefully.” As the film depicts, the 2019 explorers
premiered as part of the network’s new Norton was part of a 1999 expedition were equipped with top-of-the-line

22 ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL DECEMBER 2020 | aksportingjournal.com


Norton has reached the summit of Mount
Everest, but he’s also gone back to the highest
peak on the planet to help solve the mystery of
a 1924 attempt made by Englishmen George
Mallory and Andrew “Sandy” Irvine (inset: top,
bottom). Norton was part of a team that found
Mallory’s remains in 1999, but Irvine’s body has
never been found. (DISCOVERY CHANNEL/WIKIMEDIA) 

equipment, tents and clothing to handle for the fact that they even got to base as a guide at 18 and has since climbed,
the hazardous weather conditions, camp (17,000-plus feet), which until besides Denali, five of the world’s
including crampons attached to their 1921 no one had been within 40 miles Seven Summits (highest peaks on each
boots that help gain traction on the slick of. It’s just phenomenal that they were continent), was enthralled by Mallory’s
ice and snow. But when he was part of the anywhere on the mountain, let alone passion to reach the top.
team that found Mallory’s remains in 1999, within 1,000 feet of the summit.” Norton says he felt something
Norton was astonished by what Mallory Mallory in particular is something of a spiritual connection with the
and fellow Englishman Irvine had to do to of a role model for mountaineers. They mountaineers he’s searched for now on
make the dangerous ascent in the 1920s. appreciate some of his philosophical multiple trips to Everest. In watching
“It was almost comical looking at thoughts about why he was such a the Discovery Channel film, there was a
what (Mallory) was wearing compared climbing savant in his day, which made sense that these explorers who were less
to what we were, when we had these Norton so emotional when he and the interested in getting back to the summit
$1,000 boots and modern-fabric, space- 1999 team that was led by Eric Simpson than finding the truth about Mallory and
age technology,” Norton admits, also found Mallory – Conrad Anker was the Irvine, almost owed it to those pioneers
marveling at the men’s remarkable first who reached the remains – at the to find more signs of what really
acclimation to Everest’s high altitude. 26,760-foot level on Everest’s north face happened almost 100 years ago.
“They didn’t know how the human (the Tibet side now controlled by China). “I feel that way; not in a Ouija board-
body would respond to the rigors of “I just remember at first the gasps type sense, but I think those of us who
altitude. Some scientists thought it was and disbelief; we were just stunned have been to the mountain a lot, you
humanly impossible to go that high. The into silence,” he says of the Mallory can’t help but really begin to revere and
down gear that we take for granted today discovery. “Nobody could really talk and feel some degree of connection to those
had really just been invented. It wasn’t get out a coherent thought for a while. who paved the way and those who came
very good; it was heavy and thick. And There we were with a hero of all of ours.” first,” Norton says.
they were using solid fuel burners without Norton, who as a tween first scaled “I find myself up on the mountain
water. They didn’t know the importance of Washington state’s 14,000-plus- always thinking about Mallory and
hydration. Just challenge after challenge foot Mount Rainier, started working Irvine, or (fellow 1924 expedition

aksportingjournal.com | DECEMBER 2020 ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL 23


The Norton Everest team carried a photo of
Irvine’s and Mallory’s 1924 camp during their
recent search, which left some of their story
untold. “We may never know all the answers,”
Norton says, “but we know a lot more and we
can still celebrate the fact that they were there
and did incredible things.” (DISCOVERY CHANNEL) 

members Noel Odell and Howard IT DOESN’T TAKE AN experienced incredible mountain.”
Somervell), all these different climbers, mountaineer to know that climbing Norton knows his Alaska history and
going over there in such a different era. Mount Everest is one of the most even compared his obsession studying
Their experiences do kind of speak to physically and mentally demanding and searching for Mallory and Irvine to
us, and hopefully we’re wise enough to tasks for a human being to achieve. But some Last Frontier legends of yesteryear.
listen to those voices.” even at 10,000 feet lower in elevation, “It was really reminiscent of the
Unfortunately, despite several Alaska’s Denali proved to be arguably a Sourdoughs, especially their first ascent
possible leads and even finding other tougher task for Norton and those who of Denali,” says Norton, referring to the
bodies buried in the deep snow banks he guided on two expeditions there. miners who, with similar gear to Irvine
who weren’t Irvine, no evidence of It took the second trip for him and his and Mallory’s, somehow managed to
his remains were found. Discovery party to reach the top, in July 1995. reach the top of the mountain – it would
Channel’s film was likely the end of “The 30-second answer is, when you be officially known as Mount McKinley –
the line for Norton’s 20-year odyssey take altitude out of the equation, Denali in the early 20th century.
to find definitive proof whether the is hands-down a more difficult ascent to “Nobody thought they could make it,
English mountaineers predated Hillary’s climb,” Norton says. “Granted, I haven’t and then when the next ascent party got
successful climb. been there since 1995, but I know the up, they found a huge pole stuck in the
“I think there’s always a degree of mountain hasn’t changed height and I wrong summit of Denali, but almost at
unfulfillment. There’s always more to don’t think it’s gotten to be noticeably the top. They just did it with their mining
know and more to learn. But I think over warmer.” gear.”
two decades of being a part of this, I’ve “There’s a physical nature of Denali Norton would have his own special
kind of come to having terms of the fact (that you) don’t have pack animals memory on top of Alaska and the entire
that it’s OK not to know it all,” he says. and don’t have Sherpa support. You’re continent.
“I’ve been fortunate enough to help tell carrying massive packs and dragging a
these stories. We may never know all the sled. You’re dealing with temperatures WHEN NORTON FIRST WAS what he
answers, but we know a lot more and we that go from 90 degrees on a calm day referred to as a “grunt guide” – “I had the
can still celebrate the fact that they were in the sun down on the (lower portions) pleasure of carrying a heavier pack,” he
there and did incredible things.” to 40 below zero in a storm up near the proudly says – on a Denali expedition,
All because Everest was there. summit. It’s a punishing but beautiful, the May mid-1990s trip didn’t go well.

24 ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL DECEMBER 2020 | aksportingjournal.com


“We just got pulverized by storms
SO YOU WANT TO CLIMB DENALI?
M
and cold (conditions). And then my
second (attempt) was a July trip where ount Everest, the world’s highest mountain, has drawn inexperienced
the mountain was empty and there were mountaineers who have struggled trying to ascend and descend the
only two teams of us on the mountain,” 29,000-plus-foot peak.
But Jake Norton, who’s done both climbs, says the National Park Service has
he says. “We summited on a beautiful,
done a good job of keeping away those not ready to handle the rigors of a climb at
warm day.”
Alaska’s Denali.
For mountaineers like Norton,
“I think a decade ago that would have been the case. I think, oddly, these days it’s
topping these massive peaks is part of
actually the reverse; here you see people with far less experience on the slopes of
the symbolic lore of the challenge (he Everest than you’ll see on Denali,” he says.
would love one day to climb another “And a lot of that is, and in our country we don’t like the term ‘regulations,’ but the
of his last remaining Seven Summits, regulations of the National Park Service has put on concessionaires in our national
Carstensz Pyramid, which is located in a parks. If you’re an outfitter, you hold a special concession to guide on the mountain.
remote and politically unstable corner of And they’re held to very high standards by the Park Service. If there’s an accident or
Indonesia). a death of a paying client, it’s investigated deeply.”
And when he and his teams finished He added that the financial impact of negligent decisions could be devastating
what they started the year before and financially for climbing services.
reached the pinnacle of a North American Contrasting those increasingly strict guidelines for Denali climbers, many Everest
climbing challenge, it was a moment to guides now lack some of the same vetting of potential clients.
savor and to soak up the sunshine, the “These days, you’ll literally see people on Mount Everest who would not have
view and the accomplishment. been accepted to climb (Washington’s) Mount Rainier when I was a guide there,”
“We were able to have a fly-by done says Norton, who also offered the following advice for climbers hoping to take on
by the bush pilot while we were on the the Alaska summit.
summit. It was a breathless, warm- “First and foremost, I would say don’t ever downplay Denali. I think people will
for-Denali day. I don't know the exact be like, ‘Wait, I’ve been to the Himalayas and climbed at 20,000 feet,’” he says.
temperature, but I was up there with light “Denali’s a whole different animal. It’s like someone from Colorado saying, ‘I climbed
gloves and a baseball cap and my down a (14,000-footer) and I should be able to climb Rainier.’ They’re not in the same
jacket unzipped. It was just gorgeous,” league whatsoever.”
says Norton, who hopes to go back and “And so don’t go without a guide, unless you’re truly experienced enough for the
challenge. Guide services are great to go with. They ensure your safety and help you
explore more of Alaska’s mountains in
enjoy the trip. But also take the cold and the physical aspect of Denali seriously. You
the future.
can’t just be used to being in snow; you’ve got to be used to being out in the winter
Where the top of Denali differs from
cold day after day. It’s a long expedition and it’s physically demanding. If one is not
some of Norton’s successful Himalayan
used to it, it will be a game-changer on Denali.” CC
climbs is the scope of the view. While
atop many of those peaks means more JAKE NORTON ON TOP OF THE WORLD
mountains around him, the way Denali SEVEN SUMMITS (TALLEST MOUNTAINS ON EACH CONTINENT) 
towers over everything made for an even Everest (China-Nepal, Asia; 29,029 feet): May 18, 2002
more spectacular vista point. Aconcagua (Argentina, South America; 22,841 feet): Jan. 17, 2009
“It felt more (like being) on top of the Denali (Alaska, U.S.A., North America; 20,310 feet): July 17, 1995
world than the summit of Everest does,” Kilimanjaro (Tanzania, Africa; 19,308 feet): Sept. 20, 2002
says Norton. Vinson Massif (Antarctica; 16,050 feet): Jan. 10, 2011
But memories like his Denali ascent Mont Blanc (France-Italy, Europe*; 15,410 feet): July 7, 1987
is likely why Norton was so driven to *Mount Elbrus in Russia is considered by some the tallest peak in Europe, but since
complete his quest of fully solving the it straddles the Europe-Asia border some experts argue that Mont Blanc is the
Mallory-Irvine mystery, while not only continent’s true summit.
finding his remains but coming closer
to determining if they indeed completed
OTHER NOTABLE CLIMBS
Cho Oyu (China-Nepal; 26,864 feet): Sept. 28, 1997
their Everest climb. Part of him wants Gurla Mandhata (China-Nepal; 25,243 feet): Sept. 26, 2006
to buy into the theory that they had the Nevado Chopicalqui (Peru; 20,846 feet): June 16, 1996
ability and motivation to at least get to Nevado Tocllaraju (Peru; 19,554 feet): June 22, 2000
experience the joy of getting to the top Volcan Cotopaxi (Ecuador; 19,347 feet): Dec. 12, 2009
of the planet before succumbing to the Ararat (Turkey; 16,854 feet): Sept. 25, 2010
great mountain.
“I’m admittedly an idealist and a AWAY FROM HOME
romantic. On the one hand, I truly want Jake Norton’s globetrotting travels have kept him away from wife Wende Valentine
to believe that they summited, not and kids Lila and Ryrie, and he had a short film, Wild Love, made as a tribute to them:
because I believe it would take away mountainworldproductions.com/portfolio/wild-love-jake-norton-wende-valentine.

aksportingjournal.com | DECEMBER 2020 ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL 25


anything at all from Hillary and Tenzing;
if anything, it would underscore what
they did because they made it back
down alive,” he says.
“But I would love to imagine (Mallory
and Irvine) being up there in their tweed
coats and woolen knickers.”
Perhaps it’s a feeling of elation and
hope that only fellow mountaineers can
truly understand. ASJ

Editor’s note: You can see more of Jake


Norton’s adventures and guiding at his
website, jakenorton.com. For more on
Discovery Channel’s film on the Norton
Everest expedition, go to go.discovery.com/
tv-shows/undiscovered/full-episodes/
everests-greatest-mystery.

For an American mountaineer, getting to the top of the highest point on this continent was
special. “It felt more (like being) on top of the world than the summit of Everest does,” says
Norton (left), who recalls the feat as “pretty amazing and powerful.” (JAKE NORTON) 

26 ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL DECEMBER 2020 | aksportingjournal.com


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aksportingjournal.com | DECEMBER 2020 ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL 33
GRASS CHUTE
GOATS
THREE HUNTERS BRAVE RUGGED SOUTHEAST ALASKA
TERRAIN TO CHASE BILLIES

BY BRIAN WATKINS 

E
veryone has been affected in some
way or another by COVID-19. It’s
a troublesome year, but as with
everything in life, you need to find the
silver linings.
My buddy Trevor and I had planned a
goat hunt in Southeast Alaska in August.
The plan was to go for two mature
billies – bow in tow. Planning the early-
So you want to be a goat hunter? Get ready for one season hunt was our way of escaping
of the most physically challenging hunts you can
imagine, as three friends discovered on a Southeast the COVID world a little early. As it turns
Alaska mountain goat adventure. (BRIAN WATKINS) out, my best friend from college, Dave,
who is not a hunter, was laid off due to typical goat hunt path: thick brush and
a decrease in workload. His silver lining elevation gain. We spent the first day
was leaving California and coming with climbing the mountain and getting to
us to experience what hunting in Alaska the area that we had gone over.
is all about: adventure. Opening morning was one we will
never forget. We headed out onto
OUR GOOD FRIEND JON Geary took us out the tops of the mountains amidst the
onto the saltwater via boat, the best slopes and cliffs. We spotted several
route of travel in Southeast, and dropped inaccessible goats and ventured into
us off on a beach that we had decided on uncharted territory.
by going over maps. Our plan was to slowly walk the
We headed up the mountain on a ridgelines and glass each grass chute as

Besides the steep climbs, there are


plenty of tree trunks to cross in this
corner of Alaska. (BRIAN WATKINS) 

we went along. Trevor would cover one side


of the mountain as Dave and I would go the
other way. The terrain is comprised of grass
chutes that lead into cliff edges of shale
rock. The goats tend to live in the shale rock
for safety from predators. The area where
they reside is often dangerous and deadly.
Moving along the ridge, Trevor spotted
a mature billy. The goat was only 120 yards
away, but in the aforementioned terrain.
Trevor moved down a grass chute as Dave
and I watched from above. As Trevor
progressed, he slipped, sliding straight
down towards the billy, which stood at the
base of a 40-foot vertical drop.
As Trevor gained speed, we gasped in
fear thinking he was going to fly off the
cliff and be in serious trouble. Somehow
Trevor dug his feet in and stopped a
couple feet short of death. He trembled
as adrenaline shot through his body. I’m
still not sure quite how he did it, but he
was able to compose himself and make a
great shot on the goat below.

WHILE TREVOR AND DAVE went down to find


his goat, I spotted another animal across
the valley. It looked to be a nice billy, so I
went out to put a stalk on. It’s always best
to get above mountain goats and stalk
down to them. The animals rarely look up
The guys were ready for a long hike to for danger and it gives a better vantage
the high country. (BRIAN WATKINS)  point to stalk them.

36 ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL DECEMBER 2020 | aksportingjournal.com


Even in August, you’re bound to
run into a lot of snow at higher
elevations. (BRIAN WATKINS) 

A satisfied Trevor Embry shows off


his mature billy. (BRIAN WATKINS) 

I made my way above the billy, which can use signals almost as well as voice
was now accompanied by a smaller goat. commands. I got positioned directly
As I moved into the area, I lost track above the goats.
of where the animals were. I used my I knew the goats would feed up
binoculars to look back at Trevor and towards me as the day progressed. The
Dave, who watched as I got into position. first to come up was the small 2-year-
Trevor gave predetermined hand signals old billy. He saw me lying above, but the
to let me know where the goats were, wind was in my favor, leaving him unable
as I was blind to their position. We have to determine if I was a danger or not.
hunted together enough now that we As I waited for the bigger goat to

When on the lookout for mountain goats, the view is


part of the experience. Getting within bow range of one
is another story. (BRIAN WATKINS) 

38 ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL DECEMBER 2020 | aksportingjournal.com


A driving rainstorm would
make transporting the goats
back down to the boat a
challenge, but a pair of billies
down and full game bags
were the reward for coming
this far. (BRIAN WATKINS) 

“Two goats down, within 30 minutes appear, this billy found me interesting.
of each other,” writes author Brian He walked to within 5 feet of me. I
Watkins (left, with Dave Moore and
Embry). “It was a morning we will thought he was going to lick my bow! He
never forget.” (BRIAN WATKINS)  finally spooked off and ran back down
the hill to about 30 yards out.
As he looked back at me, the bigger
billy finally came up. I ranged him at 35
yards and sent an arrow flying. The shot
drove through both lungs and the goat
headed straight down the mountain. I’m
not sure how they stay completely sure-
footed in that terrain, but he made it all
the way down to the base of the cliff. Even
being mortally wounded the goat still
cruised through the mountain with ease.

TWO GOATS DOWN, WITHIN 30 minutes


of each other! It was a morning we will
never forget, and Dave was spoiled with
what turned out to be an easy bow hunt.
The weather turned that evening and
we had sideways rain for the next three
days of packing out the goats. It was truly
Southeast Alaska weather – a downpour
of rain and heavy winds.
Goat hunting is strenuous, but it
makes you feel alive. Especially chasing
them in their natural habitat in the
sketchiest environment Alaska has to
offer. We will be back next year. ASJ

40 ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL DECEMBER 2020 | aksportingjournal.com


ATKINS ON
ALASKA
ADVENTURE
BOOK EXCERPT: HOW AN OKLAHOMAN FOUND OUTDOOR BLISS IN THE ARCTIC
BY PAUL D. ATKINS 

W
years, and with much effort and many
hen I first came to the Alaskan Arctic in the mid-1990s, I sealed envelopes full of CDs and cover
had no idea that I would end up spending almost 25 years letters later I got published. Many of
those mailings were rejected, and for
of my life here. The first time I came up here is what did it, good reason, but eventually it did happen.
and looking back I believe it really was that trip that truly hooked me. Most of those that did get greenlit
for publication were in magazines that
But if you told me back then that I would spend half my life here accepted manuscripts for consideration.
– a whole quarter of a century – I would have told you that you were In return I received nothing moneywise
– only an opportunity. And even though
crazy. But I did and with that came a life of incredible blessings. most of those publications were very
reader-specific, I was grateful for
One of the things I promised myself the exposure. Everyone has to start
back then was that I would write a book somewhere, right?
about my time here and chronicle my For some, having an Alaskan story
adventures in the Arctic, so to speak. I published once would be enough, but it
remember sitting on my parents’ couch wasn’t for me. The biggest reason was
in Oklahoma having a discussion with the extensive amount of storylines I had
my father before I moved north. He or could gather. Every day up here was a
asked me why I was going (as if he didn’t new adventure, allowing me to write as
know) and how long I might be gone. much as I wanted. It was truly endless.
It was the hunting, of course, and I So, as the journals filled – I have boxes
really didn’t know how long I would be of old steno notebooks filled with ink – I
away. “Long enough to write a book kept writing. Eventually over time I got
about hunting in the Arctic,” I told better at the craft and it was no longer
him. My writing skills were new back “if” I could get it published, but where
then, and even though I had only been
published a couple of times I had the Oklahoman Paul Atkins dreamed of
bug and wanted to continue doing so, chasing outdoor adventure in Alaska, and
the reality of the experiences he’s enjoyed
if I could. Anyway, my dad agreed and was more than he could have asked for.
supported me on my quest. He’s sharing some of his memories in a
I kept journals in those early Arctic new book, Atkins’ Alaska. (PAUL D. ATKINS) 

42 ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL DECEMBER 2020 | aksportingjournal.com


aksportingjournal.com | DECEMBER 2020 ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL 43
and whom I wanted to publish it with. in the Alaskan Arctic – specifically my and going through them again brought
I’ve been blessed and a bit lucky, but I hunting and fishing adventures, plus a back a ton of memories – the old days of
would say with a lot of hard work and few survival tales thrown in there. sitting at Bayside Restaurant with a cup
persistence it has paid off over the years. So, as you may have guessed, the time of coffee writing away or inside a tent
I’m not bragging by any means; finally came to put my book together. I at night listening for bears as I tried to
there are many writers who are a lot thought it would be hard at first, but with write – that I wanted somehow to get
better than me. But I’ve been fortunate the right publisher, good editors and, of into the book.
enough to be published over 400 times course, a laptop with Microsoft Word, it Looking back on all those old stories,
in my career as a writer. Most if not all became quite easy. I was really surprised at how much
of those have pertained to my life here My old journals served a purpose too, material I had to use. It was all there,

“I’ve killed much bigger, but no bear has scared


me more.” Atkins says of this bruin. “I really
thought that my good friend Carl and I were
at war with this guy. He was a bully that just
wouldn’t leave well enough alone.” (PAUL D. ATKINS) 

44 ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL DECEMBER 2020 | aksportingjournal.com


“When I first started writing I couldn’t endless adventures throughout the Arctic
afford a laptop or even a desktop. So, I used
a notebook,” says Atkins, who often spent and all of Alaska. The memories were
hours working on his memoir at Bayside vivid, and the time had come to put it all
Restaurant, a Kotzebue establishment together. So with that, my book has come
that tragically burned to the ground in
a November fire. “I took one with me to fruition. It was a dream that I had and
everywhere I went,” he says of the journals. something I promised myself I would do
(PAUL D. ATKINS)  long ago. I look at it as coming full circle
during my time here.
The following are just a few excerpts
from my book, Atkins’ Alaska, published by
Publications Consultants in Anchorage,
Alaska. I hope you enjoy them as much as
I have had putting them together.

DANGEROUS GAME
Sometimes, tales of past experiences
get put aside like an old pair of boots,
but they’re hardly forgotten. I think
about them often and to tell the truth,
they define who I am and what I’ve done
here. Events where mistakes were made,
and if not for a lucky decision here and
there, things could have turned out quite
differently. I’ve been a part of or at least
participated in many of these here in
the Arctic, and to be honest there have
been times when I didn’t think I’d make
it home alive.
I definitely learned from them and
there are few that are hard to write about.
The struggles of each were real and the
sheer closeness to receiving bodily harm
was a little too close for comfort.
Many people shake their head
and wonder why I put myself in these
situations. Looking back, I wonder myself
sometimes. Was it the challenge, the
adventure or maybe the sheer want of
an animal that propelled me? All I know
is that most people can’t comprehend
what it’s like to come face to face with a
sow grizzly or the sinking feeling that if
something isn’t done soon, you’ll freeze
to death. Crazy, to say the least.
This is one of those stories. A flash
from the past where we became the prey
and not the predator. Sometimes it’s
better to just shake your head, back out
and say, nope.
It was pitch dark and the big grizzly
was rushing full speed towards our tent.
With a flashlight in one hand and a .44
in the other, all I could say was, “Here he
comes again, and this time I don’t think he
is going to stop!” The only comfort was
being inside the tent, or so I thought. This
was like a bad dream …

46 ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL DECEMBER 2020 | aksportingjournal.com


HIGH MOUNTAIN OX
Teetering on the side of a mountain, I
came to a stop thinking, “This is really
going to hurt!” The slick, hard-packed
snow provided zero traction and my Sno-
Go track began to spin at its steepest
point. Thirty yards from the top, where
Lew stood watching me, I began to tip.
One ski was off the ground, and I could
feel the weight of the heavy sled pushing
against me. Straddling the seat and
leaning hard against the mountain, I knew I
couldn’t hold it much longer and prepared
for the long tumble down to where I had
started. In my mind, I could see gear –
bow, rifle and everything else – scattered
like trash down the mountainside, and me
with a broken neck. Luckily, I was able to
balance it and bring it to a stop.
This year’s weather has been difficult
here in the far north, more weird than
difficult. Winter arrived early, producing
tons of snow blanketing the region in
deep white and then it began to warm up.
We then had rain for a few days and
then it reversed itself again, giving us a
dose of extreme cold. I can handle these
changes – I’ve been doing it for years –
but the inconsistency is a killer for those
of us who like to be outside.
Ideally you want super-cold
temperatures followed by lots of snow,
but if it warms up and rains, it gets
downright miserable. Slush and thin
The author has shared many ice make travel dangerous and normal
of his fishing and hunting hunting time nonexistence. We couldn’t
outings with his son Eli – he
tells two father-son stories get out and do anything, so all we could
in the book – and longtime do was wait for it to get cold again …
buddy/partner in crime Lew
Pagel. (PAUL D. ATKINS) 
LIKE FATHER, LIKE SON
“Eli, are you going to be OK?” I asked
for the hundredth time. Through tearful
eyes he replied with a simple, “Yes.” I
wondered if he really was, though, and
it worried me. The Dramamine had little
effect and the patches seemed more
like a gimmick than an actual preventive
against seasickness.
I felt sorry for him, to say the least
– this might have been a bad idea,
dragging him out onto the ocean for a
trip like this. Thankfully, however, one of
the guys on the boat had been thoughtful
enough to bring a bag of Jolly Ranchers,
which in the end helped save the day and
the entire trip.
I know this isn’t how I usually start

48 ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL DECEMBER 2020 | aksportingjournal.com


YOUR MUST-STOP BEFORE HUNTING & FISHING
ON PRINCE OF WALES ISLAND, ALASKA
KNOWLEDGEABLE STAFF WILL LET YOU KNOW WHERE, WHEN AND HOW!
one of my stories, but when your fishing “Cast and blast,” as it is often referred, Whether it’s been muskox on the
and hunting trip requires a boat in order are five-to-six-day boat hunts and northwest coast – where just surviving
to go a long distance in big water, then it fishing tours provided by transporters in becomes the main focus – or chasing
usually always starts just like that. and out of one or many bodies of water Dall sheep in winter or hunting the
Five-day excursions into wide open here in Alaska. They are fun and exciting barren tundra where the mighty grizzly
places, such as the southern end of and provide a lot of enjoyment for a true and majestic caribou roam, all were
Kamishak Bay (where we were), or other Alaskan adventure, something all should unforgettable, and each are etched in
places like the Chukchi Sea where I live, experience at least once in their lives … my mind forever. Here is one of those
are not for the faint-hearted anyway, but incredible times.
are common practices come May through ONCE UPON A TIME IN THE ARCTIC “They’re right over the edge,” I
June here in Alaska. Getting sick from the Alaska’s Arctic has been kind to me. whispered into Lew’s ear.
ever-pounding waves and rocking of the Living here for the last 20 years has “How many?” he asked.
boat are a given and eventually someone brought me many experiences, both “I don’t know?” I said. “I only saw the
or all will spill their beans. good and bad. I’ve seen things that most top of their backs.”
This was not my first trip onto the only dream about and been involved in Lew’s face lit up with excitement
deep blue, but it had been many years some of the greatest hunting adventures shouting, “Check again, check again!”
since I flew to Homer and tested my in what is truly one of the last great “OK, but we have to be quiet or we’ll
nerve and skill on a trip such as this. places on Earth. scare them off,” I told him.

Hunting Sitka blacktails on Kodiak Island is


what Atkins calls one of the Last Frontier’s
“best-kept secrets.” (PAUL D. ATKINS) 

50 ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL DECEMBER 2020 | aksportingjournal.com


We were hunting muskox on a hill wavering, I kept my eyes peeled, looking wondering off. “Nothing; let’s just take
overlooking the Agashashok River, at each and counting under my breath. this all in and remember,” I muttered …
located just north of Kotzebue in the Baird After a few minutes I turned to Lew,
Mountains. Lew is a great friend who has who stood there holding the camera, all WAITING TO FREEZE
been living here in the Arctic for the last dressed in his warm but bright red parka. The caribou were but small specks in
15 years. He and I have been hunting “They’re right there!” I told him. the distance, tiny white spots against
together for several of those years, but “How many?” he asked. a burnt-orange and brown landscape.
Lew, like many, had never seen a wild “Twelve,” I said. There was no cover to speak of and
muskox up close before, let alone a small “Dang, let’s shoot one!” he blurted. the hike over would take us through a
herd, like those now hidden in front of us. “We can’t,” I said. “They’re all cows!” land mine of deep tussocks and shallow
I dropped down to my knees and Quietly we stood there wondering pools.
crawled up over the edge to have a look. what to do next. I could tell Lew was The temperature was well below
Easing my frozen binoculars up, I peered disappointed and so was I, but that’s freezing and the north wind was crisp,
through the eyecups, only to come face how things work sometimes. bending spruce and biting through thick
to face with one of the beasts. “Damn,” I “What should we do?” he asked, layers of clothes. I dreaded the hike, but
said under my breath, “they’re close!” Not pointing to the herd that was now hopefully the ground would be frozen,

Atkins has taken 10 muskox during his


Alaska stint and he understands he’s been
lucky, but it also took him about a decade
to draw his first tag. “So, in the end I’ve
paid my dues, but it’s much more than
that,” he says. “It has become a ritual for
me, something I cherish.” (PAUL D. ATKINS)

52 ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL DECEMBER 2020 | aksportingjournal.com


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aksportingjournal.com | DECEMBER 2020 ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL 53


“One of the things I promised myself back
then was that I would write a book about my
time here and chronicle my adventures in
the Arctic,” Atkins writes about his pilgrim-
age to the Great North. “It was a dream that
I had and something I promised myself I
would do long ago. I look at it as coming full
circle during my time here.” (PAUL D. ATKINS) 

and the 2-mile stalk would be easy on Rivers are icing up along the edges and And even though I’d like to be, I
my knees. the small tributaries are layered in white wouldn’t trade places with them. I love
September is long gone now. Moose crystal. Boats are being stored while Alaska and what it will bring, but now all I
season is over and most of the caribou snowmachines lay in wait, filling yards can do is sit, reflect and wait for snow. ASJ
have moved south to their winter range. and garages across the Arctic. It’s a time
The trips across the big lake are finished of bored anticipation. Editor’s note: Atkins’ Alaska is available at
and the old duck blind lies vacant until As a hunter, it’s also a tough time for Barnes and Noble, Amazon and everywhere
next season. me personally. In the 20 years I’ve lived good books are sold. It can also be ordered
The big snowshoe hare are here I still cannot get used to this time of through author Paul Atkins’ website,
camouflaging themselves in white, while year. Most of my friends who live down paulatkinsoutdoors.com, and if you want
the half-white, half-brown ptarmigan south are just beginning their hunting an autographed copy, email him at paul@
dance in the willows, waiting on the seasons, with many still in waiting. paulatkinsoutdoors.com.
snow to fall. It truly is a time of change. I watch online at their exploits with Atkins is an outdoor writer and author
Late October and early November jealous congratulations, praying for their from Kotzebue, Alaska. He’s had hundreds
are difficult times here in the Arctic, success and seeing their failures. Each of articles published on big game hunting
especially for the outdoorsman. Much day they’re either sitting in a tree stand in Alaska and throughout North America
like being in purgatory, the “hurry up or pulling on waders to go chase birds or and Africa, plus surviving in the Arctic.
and wait” mentality will drive you crazy. maybe even cutting meat, which finds Paul is a regular contributor to Alaska
The ocean is cold but not frozen yet. me wishing I was there with them. Sporting Journal.

54 ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL DECEMBER 2020 | aksportingjournal.com


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aksportingjournal.com | DECEMBER 2020 ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL 55


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56 ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL DECEMBER 2020 | aksportingjournal.com


Moose are numerous in Game Management
Unit 18 and it is one of the few places in
Alaska where numbers are growing. There
are five subareas to hunt, and in some of
those you can take two moose. Just be
sure to check the regulations to see what is
available. (PAUL D. ATKINS) 

GMU PrOFILE

EXPERIENCE
ALASKA’S BULL
HUNTING BONANZA
Editor’s note: From the Alaska Panhandle to the “top of the world” in Barrow/Utqiagvik, more prevalent in Unit 18 than other
Alaska contains 26 game management units that feature land for hunting and other units further to the north. But unlike
outdoor activities. Our Arctic adventurer Paul Atkins is breaking down some of the units those northern units, you can only take
he’s hunted in the past in this ongoing feature. This issue: GMU 18. one brown bear per year versus two
where I live around Kotzebue.
BY PAUL D. ATKINS 
MORE BULLS TO HARVEST

G
ame Management Unit 18, which SPRAWLING UNIT Caribou are not as common as they
lies in the southwestern part of Unit 18 is big; it encompasses the Yukon are further north, either. Only one per
the state, is truly one of Alaska’s Delta National Wildlife Refuge and customer can be taken, but from what
best-kept secrets. also the lower drainages of the Yukon I’ve seen, some of those bulls are the
This is currently one of the last few and Kuskokwim Rivers, creating all the biggest in the state.
places where the moose population is ingredients for some of the best hunting Muskox hunting, especially on
thriving. Its vast willow-choked tundra is in the state. Like many units along Nunivak Island, is the real ticket in
pristine, which creates some of the best Alaska’s western coast, the hunting is Unit 18. Open to both residents and
habitat for growing big mature bulls. superb for not only the aforementioned nonresidents, these hunts are highly
Moose can be hunted in five general moose, but for bears as well. coveted and one of the few places
areas, and, for some residents, two For instance, hunters are allowed on Earth where you can actually do it
moose may be taken annually. to harvest three black bears, which are without waiting years to draw a tag or

aksportingjournal.com | DECEMBER 2020 ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL 57


Caribou are a bit more rare to come by
in the unit, with hunters only allowed to
harvest one per year and no nonresident
opportunities. However, if you get lucky,
you will not only be in for some of the
best hunting, but also some of the state’s
biggest bulls. (PAUL D. ATKINS) 

GMU 18 includes some rugged wilderness in the right direction and even help when wolverines per year – that is, if you can
like the Yukon Delta National Wildlife it comes to getting it back to where you find them. ASJ
Refuge and also the muskox hunting mecca
of Nunivak Island in the Bering Sea. (ALASKA came from.
DEPARTMENT OF FISH AND GAME)   Like most of the state’s units, GMU 18 Editor’s note: For a detailed map and more
does harbor its share of wolves, allowing season dates on GMU 18, go to adfg.alaska
pay through the nose. 10 taken per year during a long season .gov and look under the Hunting tab to a link
Nunivak Island is located right off the running from August through April. And to maps by game management unit. Follow
coast in the Bering Sea, about 135 miles unlike most units, you are allowed two Paul Atkins on Twitter @AKTrophyHunter.
from the town of Bethel. This remote
island is home to approximately 500
to 600 muskox and very few people.
Introduced in 1929, muskox have thrived
and developed into an incredible hunting
opportunity for those wanting a hunt like
no other.
Bulls can be hunted by permit only,
but permits are also available for cows on
a first-come, first-served basis. Muskox
hunting occurs twice a year, with one
season starting in August and the other
in January.

MACHINES REQUIRED
Much like around my country, muskox
hunting is done by snowmachine. There
are many operators on the island who
will gladly rent you a machine, point you

Muskox hunters come from all over the


world to hunt these prehistoric beasts, and
rightly so. Open to residents and nonresi-
dents alike, muskox are plentiful. You may
have to hurry to get a permit, though, as
they go quickly. (PAUL D. ATKINS) 

58 ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL DECEMBER 2020 | aksportingjournal.com


aksportingjournal.com | DECEMBER 2020 ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL 59
CATCHING
‘THE ILIAMNA
LAKE MONSTER’
BY BJORN DIHLE 

O
n a calm September day, a rest of the flock was dragged under. The what people have dubbed “The Iliamna
group of moose hunters sat in hunters watched in horror and fascination, Lake Monster.”
their skiff on Iliamna Lake on the as what they thought had been sunken
Alaska Peninsula. The men noticed what logs fed on the birds. One was the length WRIGHT IS “NOT A big fan of cryptobiology,”
looked like two big sunken logs beneath and the width of their 18-foot skiff and had but as a scientist who has studied
their boat, but didn’t think much of it. eyes the circumference of soccer balls. The everything from bears to sharks, he finds
They focused on scanning for moose creatures looked like giant northern pike. the stories of the monsters fascinating.
and watching a family of swans floating Bruce Wright, a marine ecologist and The lake interests Wright as much as any
nearby. Suddenly, one swan vanished apex predator specialist, recorded this mysterious beasts it may hold.
underwater. In a matter of seconds the account. It’s just one of many stories of “What’s so intriguing to me is the lake

60 ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL DECEMBER 2020 | aksportingjournal.com


Akin to Scotland’s Loch Ness Monster, a mystery creature is believed to live
below the surface of Bristol Bay’s Iliamna Lake. “The Iliamna Lake Monster” is
often described as shark-like in appearance. (lLLUSTRATION BY ALEX WITT) 

itself. Five to eight million adult sockeye


salmon come back to Lake Iliamna each
year,” Wright said.
At 77 miles long, up to 1,000 feet
deep and with an area of roughly 1,200
square miles, Iliamna is the largest lake
in Alaska and the third largest in the
U.S. It’s the source of the Kvichak River,
which is considered the most productive
freshwater habitat for Bristol Bay’s

aksportingjournal.com | DECEMBER 2020 ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL 61


An Iliamna Lake freshwater seal investigates Mark Stigar
and Bruce Wright’s underwater camera. A theory is that
the seals are prey of the lake monster. (MARK STIGAR) 

sockeye salmon. are hunting. Many Natives believe he’s wondering if they might be a tiny
There’s also some debate as to the the creatures to be dangerous and population of gargantuan northern pike.
exact meaning of “Iliamna.” According attracted to the color red. In 1980, Others have theorized they’re giant
to a newsletter published by the Yup’ik the Anchorage Daily News offered a sturgeon. However, reports of the
village of Igiugig, which lies at the western $100,000 reward during a five-month creatures’ predatory behavior – herding
edge of the lake, Iliamna is “the name of period to anyone who presented clear seals into shallows to hunt them and
a mythical great blackfish supposed to evidence of the monsters. No definitive preying upon schools of sockeye salmon
inhabit this lake, which bites holes in the proof has been made public, though – don’t sound like a sturgeon. Wright
bidarkas (kayaks) of bad natives.” there have been sightings reported came to the conclusion that the only way
Many people, from local Natives to most years since. Despite the lack of to solve the mystery was to catch one of
visiting scientists, believe there’s nothing a carcass or verifiable photo, Wright the monsters.
mythical about the monsters. Since well believes there’s validity to the stories. Around this time Wright befriended
before Alaska became a state, there “I was skeptical. I’m not skeptical Mark Stigar, a retired colonel and former
have been numerous reported sightings anymore,” he said. “Every time I talk chief aviation officer for the Alaska
of giant fish-like creatures in the lake. to someone who has spent time out Army National Guard, who owns a
There’s some variation in descriptions, there, they’ve seen it or know someone cabin on Iliamna Lake. Stigar had heard
but most witnesses say the creatures are who has.” the stories for years – and having both
dark colored, shark-like in appearance a baccalaureate and master’s degree in
and between 10 and 20 feet long. FOR YEARS, WRIGHT THEORIZED that the wildlife biology, he was intrigued, though
Often there’s more than one monsters might be Pacific sleeper sharks he took the stories with a grain of salt.
together and frequently, the creatures that adapted to living in freshwater. Now, Wright gave Stigar some commercial

62 ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL DECEMBER 2020 | aksportingjournal.com


aksportingjournal.com | DECEMBER 2020 ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL 63
halibut longlining gear. Stigar set the gear
out on the lake’s bottom in 100 feet of
water, with each of the 14 hooks baited
with the head of a sockeye salmon. He’d
heard of other fishermen trying to catch
the monsters in the past; some claimed
to have hooked into one of the creatures
but that no line, including steel cable,
was able to hold one.
In 2017, after several summers with
no action, Stigar had an experience that
convinced him the monsters were real. On
that day he went to check his longline set
and was surprised to see that his 38-pound
anchor had been dragged 50 yards.
“The line was going the opposite
direction and was all tangled. Gangens
were gone, severed. Metal snaps were
Could a freshwater-adapted sleeper
shark – this 10- to 12-footer was caught bent in different directions and piled on
in the Bering Sea on a subsistence black top of each other,” Stigar said.
cod longline set – be the sea creature Halibut longline gear similar to what
that’s baffled Iliamna residents and
researchers? (JESSE WALKER)  Stigar was using will hold 10-plus-foot
sleeper sharks and halibut well over
300 pounds. Some who heard his story
theorized it could have been a seal – the
lake has a population of around 400
rare freshwater seals. Stigar believes
whatever moved his gear was much
larger and more powerful. Instead of
resetting the longline, he coiled it and
packed it away. Now that he knew the
“monster” was real, he didn’t want to
hurt or kill it.
“This could be the oldest creature on
the planet,” Stigar said. “I’m not going to
try to catch it anymore.”
Wright agreed with Stigar and the
men developed an underwater camera
system. The contraption was deployed
for the first time in the summer of 2019.
“If anything, it’s just been fun to see
what comes to the camera,” Stigar said.

DURING 2020 THERE WERE at least three


reported sightings of the monsters.
Also this year, something big visited
Wright and Stigar’s camera and tore off
part of the metal contraption that had
been baited with a filleted carcass of a
sockeye. It was the typical fisherman
story – the camera had run out of battery
shortly before the creature struck.
Stigar and Wright plan to be back
Underwater cameras Mark Stigar holds a tangled longline and a at next summer. They’re working on
are one possible way to severed gangen after something big struck improving their camera system and are
confirm what is lurking it. “This could be the oldest creature on
in the depths of Lake the planet,” he says.  “I’m not going to try adding a drone to their kit.
Iliamna. (MARK STIGAR)  to catch it anymore.” (MARK STIGAR)  Wright’s best guess is that the

64 ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL DECEMBER 2020 | aksportingjournal.com


Like all good Loch Ness-like stories, the mystery of
the Iliamna Lake Monster remains just that – a mys-
tery. Still, some think there’s validity to this legend.
“I was skeptical. I’m not skeptical anymore,” marine
ecologist Bruce Wright insists.  (CHRIS MILLER) 

“monster” is a giant pike; Stigar believes Editor’s note: Pride of Bristol Bay is a free
it’s most likely to be a sleeper shark column written by Bjorn Dihle and provided
or something similar. It’s evening by its namesake, a fisherman-direct sea-
entertainment, Stigar said, even if food marketer that specializes in delivering
nothing ever comes of it. the highest quality of sustainably caught
“There’s something out there,” he wild salmon from Bristol Bay to your door-
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know everything that’s out there.”ASJ information.
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aksportingjournal.com | DECEMBER 2020 ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL 67


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68 ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL DECEMBER 2020 | aksportingjournal.com


Looking for a holiday gift for the angler in your
life? The new Mag Lip 2.0 accounted for trout
in lakes and rivers, along with hard-fighting
coho last season. The diversity of this plug
FIELD
greatly impressed author Scott Haugen.
(SCOTT HAUGEN) 

GIFTS
THAT KEEP
ON GIVING
PICK THESE GREAT PRESENTS FOR THE SPORTSMEN ON YOUR HOLIDAY LIST
BY SCOTT HAUGEN 

L
ooking for a special Christmas gift and fall I fished the tiny 2.0 version and it catch fish.
for the hunter or angler in your life? worked great on trout, Dolly Varden and
Consider these items, which I’ve coho salmon. SOFT BEADS FOR COHO
used in the field and recommend. Trolled from a boat in a lake or Last fall I fished multiple coho streams
backtrolled in a river, this size Mag Lip in Alaska and had phenomenal success
MAG LIP 2.0 is a fish-catcher when focusing on trout with BnR Tackle’s Soft Beads (bnrtackle
One of the most versatile plugs I’ve used, and Dollies. When bobber-dogged in a .com). I’d done great before with the
the Mag Lip continued to impress me all river, it also produced a number of hard- 16mm and 20mm soft beads, but last
year. Created by Yakima Bait Company fighting silvers. season was eager to put the 25mm and
(yakimabait.com), it’s known as one of As with its larger cousins, the 2.0 32mm versions to the test.
the best models of plugs ever created, comes in a range of finishes, allowing In my first seven casts with a 32mm
as its skip-beat action entices a range of you to match what fish are feeding on. cerise-colored soft bead, I landed five
species to attack. Last spring, summer These little plugs are active, tough and coho. It got my attention. A buddy stood

aksportingjournal.com | DECEMBER 2020 ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL 69


FIELD

When your salmon


begins to fall apart in the
pan, don’t stress, as it
can make for a delicious,
fish-infused scramble
for your weekend brunch
menu. (TIFFANY HAUGEN) 

SCRAMBLING SALMON TO PERFECTION


BY TIFFANY HAUGEN 

A
year ago we were living in Hyder, frustrated when they all fell apart. They into the hot skillet, leaving at least
Alaska, and we had plenty of were, however, a lovely golden brown ¼-inch between “cakes.” Once golden
coho to get us through the winter. and once all flipped, they started to brown, flip cakes – and without worrying
In an effort to make all that fish resemble scrambled eggs. if they fall apart but trying to keep them
appealing to my family, I was always Taking a taste from the pan, I knew bite-sized. Cook the other side until
experimenting. I’ve had more than my my family would love this, especially golden brown and serve immediately
share of recipe failures over the decades, when topped with the avocado mint with avocado mint cream.
so it’s a great day when an apparent cream I had already blended up. What
failure turns into a tasty recipe worth resulted was this fish scramble. AVOCADO MINT CREAM
repeating, like this one. This recipe works great with any Two ripe avocados
Looking to make a low-carb fish patty, I smaller bits of salmon, trout, Dollies, ¼ cup fresh mint
knew my batter was lacking in consistency. sheefish, pike, halibut or cod. The meat 2 tablespoons lime juice
Thinking the patties would come can be either fresh or frozen. 2 tablespoons olive oil
together during the pan fry, I was ¼ to ½ cup cold water
1 cup raw fish Salt and black pepper to taste
One egg
¼ cup almond meal/flour Blend all ingredients
2 tablespoons mayonnaise in a food processor or
2 tablespoons minced dill pickle blender. Add water
1 tablespoon stone ground mustard to reach desired
1 tablespoon olive or coconut oil consistency and
immediately serve.
Remove any skin and bones from fish and
chop into small chunks. In a medium bowl, Editor’s note: For
mix egg, almond meal/flour, mayonnaise, signed copies of
pickle and mustard. Gently fold in fish and Tiffany’s popular
stir until thoroughly combined. book, Cooking
In a large skillet, heat oil on medium- Seafood and other
high heat. Drop spoonfuls of fish mixture best-selling titles, visit tiffanyhaugen.com.

70 ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL DECEMBER 2020 | aksportingjournal.com


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aksportingjournal.com | DECEMBER 2020 ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL 71


FIELD New this year to the outdoor
world, the line of processing
equipment from Meat! is worth
the investment, based on
Haugen’s experiences.
(SCOTT HAUGEN) 

in one spot and landed over 20 coho


in two hours on the same bead, and
another friend caught 54 coho before
having to replace his tattered 32mm
bead. Cerise, clown, and mottled pink
were the hot colors.
Soft beads are neutrally buoyant so
can be fished many ways. My favorite
was drifted, often with no weight on
the 32mm models. They also work well
under a float and can be backbounced in
ideal water.

SHIMANO NASCI C3000HG SPINNING REEL


Affordable, durable and a great all-
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with PowerPro or a copolymer – what
sets the NASCI apart are sealed gears
and bearings at the handle and bottom NASCI is smooth and works in a range of kayaks, but their fishing glasses rank
of the spool shaft, which keep out sand fisheries and water conditions, including right up there among the best I’ve used.
and small debris that are notoriously saltwater. Learn more at fish.shimano.com. I put their new El Matador polarized
hard on reels. lenses to the test in many situations this
I used this reel last year to catch trout, HOBIE ACCESSORIES year, and I loved their performance.
char, four salmon species, and more. The Hobie is world-renowned for their fishing The rubber pads on the nose and
arms are comfortable and result in a
Designed to mimic a cluster good grip. The retractable side shield
of cured eggs, neutrally design is ingenious, making for easy
buoyant 32mm soft beads and safe storage. These glasses work
were a top producer of coho
salmon for the author this perfectly for blocking interfering
year. (SCOTT HAUGEN)  sidelight and keeping out dust in the
wind. They also breathe well, meaning
no fogging. There’s no pinching or
binding, so the glasses can be worn
in comfort all day long. Learn more at
hobieeyewear.com.

YETI DOG BOWLS


We have two gun dogs and travel a lot
with them. Whether it’s on the road or
at home, they always have their Yeti dog
bowls (yeti.com). For years I searched
for the ideal food bowl for my dogs, and
Yeti’s is the best I’ve found.
Dubbed Boomer, the Yeti dog bowl
is incredibly durable, thanks to its
double-wall, noninsulated stainless steel
construction. My bowls have many dents
and dings in them, but no rust spots or
punctures, plus the nonslip ring on the

72 ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL DECEMBER 2020 | aksportingjournal.com


Pistol Bullets and Ammunition
Zero Bullet Company, Inc.
P.O. Box 1188

ZER Cullman, AL 35056


Tel: 256-739-1606
Fax: 256-739-4683
Toll Free: 800-545-9376
www.zerobullets.com

aksportingjournal.com | DECEMBER 2020 ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL 73


FIELD to achieve multiple shooting angles.
The clamp holds your rifle firmly in
place and the yoke smoothly pivots,
of venison for jerky on the slicer, then
cooking it in their dehydrator.
Meat’s 10-tray dehydrator has
allowing for easy 360-degree rotation excellent temperature control and air
and 25 degrees of cant forward and back. circulation, resulting in the best jerky
bottom is tough and dependable. They’re great for keeping steady for we’ve ever had out of a dehydrator. We
It’s a perfect dish for kibble, raw food extended periods, shooting long range also dried loads of apples, pears and
or even water. It’s simple to clean – wipe or simply making your shot placement plums with great results.
it down with a towel or place in the more precise. The company’s chamber vacuum
dishwasher. sealer is also a top-shelf accessory. We
MEAT! APPLIANCES used it on fish, game, veggies and much
BOG DEATHGRIP TRIPOD For decades Tiffany and I have worked more, and we’re very impressed with the
I’m a firm believer in tripod shooting with some of the top meat processing machine, as well as the quality of the
sticks and use them for big game and manufacturers in the outdoor industry. company’s bags, which transported and
varmints. This year, Bog (boghunt.com) After this fall, I can say the new line of froze without puncture.
reached new heights with its DeathGrip Meat! products are worth a close look Whether searching for a gift, or
Tripod. It comes in both carbon fiber (meatyourmaker.com). maybe looking to treat yourself to some
($257.99) and aluminum ($164.99). The 1.5-horsepower grinder is the new gear, there are lots of options this
Both models are engineered for precision most sturdy, smooth, simple-to-clean season. Happy holidays! ASJ
and balance. grinder I’ve used. The grinding plates
The leg design of the DeathGrip yield clean meat and it handles fat and Editor’s note: For signed copies of Scott
decreases flex – thus optimizing stability sinew extremely well. It works great on Haugen’s popular DVD, Field Dressing,
– and the pan and tilt brakes are solid. The big game and game birds. Skinning & Caping Big Game, send a
lever-lock leg adjustments are simple to Its 10-inch meat slicer is also simple check for $20 (FREE S&H), to Haugen
use and quick to handle, as are the push- to use. In addition to slicing steaks on Enterprises, P.O. Box 275, Walterville, OR
bottom leg adjustments, which allow you it, we love cutting various thicknesses 97489, or order online at scotthaugen.com.

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74 ALASKA SPORTING JOURNAL DECEMBER 2020 | aksportingjournal.com
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