instructables

DIY Automatic Alcohol Dispenser (No Arduino Needed)

by ASCAS

Build the simplest $4 Automated Alcohol Dispenser
without using Arduino. Keep your hands clean by
lling it with liquid soap, hand sanitizer or with
rubbing alcohol. By reducing physical contact, an
automated dispenser keeps virus from spreading
around in communal areas.
but then, I did nd out that using a smaller nozzle
would physically limit the ow of liquid. There are
several two transistor RC circuits that would solve the
over spilling problem but the single transistor design
works well, given that you choose the proper nozzle
size.

T he De s ig n: Yo uTube Tut o ria l:

I've seen several Arduino automated liquid dispensers

circulating the web. I nd using Arduinos a bit overkill
for this speci c project. Arduinos are far too
//www.yout ube.com/embed/5yojb3vL-go
expensive. I gured using a simple transistor or
MOSFET would do the job, which would also
drastically reduce the costs. Obviously, the absence of
a micro controller removes control of over spilling,

DIY Automatic Alcohol Dispenser (No Arduino Needed): Page 1

Step 1: Parts & Materials

Pa rt s & M a t e ria ls : - Aquarium Tubing

- Proximity Sensor ($0.6 - https://bit.ly/3ape7I2 ) - Old Glass Jar

- DC Water Pump ($1.8 - https://bit.ly/3ayT5qJor $3 - - Old Ballpen

https://bit.ly/3aouip4 )
- Sanitizer/ Rubbing Alcohol
- TIP32C PNP Transistor ($0.2 - https://bit.ly/2UljPVM )

- 1N4007 Diode

DIY Automatic Alcohol Dispenser (No Arduino Needed): Page 2

Step 2: Clean the Container

If you are planning to recycle a glass jar or container like mine. You can remove the label by peeling it, the
remaining residue can be removed by using pure Acetone or hand wash alcohol.

Step 3: Connect a Tube to Your Motor

Stretch your tube's end by using the end of your pliers while heating it using a lighter. The tube must be force tted
to your DC pump's liquid outlet. To can use a zip tie to keep it in place.

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Step 4: Drill Holes for Wire and Tube

Use your power drill for drilling holes for the wire and tube. Be sure to use the proper drill bit to give it a snug t.

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Step 5: Cut the Excess Tube

Use a pair of scissors to cut the excess tube.

Step 6: Add a Bendy Wire

To keep the tube from sagging, you can use chicken wire or copper wire to make the tube bendable. Simply insert
the wire inside your tube. You can braid it to make the wired tube sti er.

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Step 7: Makeshift Nozzle

A nozzle can be used to control the amount of uid exiting the dispenser. I got mine from the tip of a dried out pen.
You can try out a smaller nozzle to achieve a mist.

DIY Automatic Alcohol Dispenser (No Arduino Needed): Page 6

Step 8: Hotglue the Sensor

You can use a nut and bolt to hold your sensor in place, or simply just use hot glue to mount it in place.

DIY Automatic Alcohol Dispenser (No Arduino Needed): Page 7

Step 9: No PCB Needed - Superglue the Transistor

The project relies on a very simple circuit, using a transistor as a simple switching device. I didn't nd the need to
use a perf board or PCB. TIP32C is robust enough to handle the DC pump without heating up.You can simply mount
your transistor using a few drops of superglue on the container's lid.

Step 10: Schematic Diagram

Here's a simpli ed wiring diagram for the
components.
Why not just connect the pump directly to the
sensor's digital output? For one, the sensor's digital
output can only handle a few militi-amps of current,
connecting the pump directly to the IR sensor could
damage the LM393 op-amp chip. Second, the sensor's
digital output is HIGH by default when no object is
detected or LOW when an object has been detected.
This means you would need a logic inverter in order
for the dispenser to work properly. Using a PNP
transistor solves the two problem in a cost e ective
way.

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Step 11: Schematic Revision

M O S FE T : Originally, the plan was to use a logic level
MOSFET instead of a BJT. MOSFETs are designed to
operate as switching devices, unlike a BJT which is
often use to serve in the active region than on a
saturated level. MOSFETs can also handle more
current due to its material composition. The reason
why I chose to use a BJT was due to its availability for
hobbyists as they are more common than MOSFETs.
FLYBACK DIO DE: The motor acting as an inductive
load. A yback diode is a diode connected across an
inductor used to eliminate yback, which is the
sudden voltage spike seen across an inductive load
when its supply current is suddenly reduced or
interrupted. You can add a common recti er diode
such as a 1N4007 or a schottky diode for a faster
response. From quick measurements and
observations, the motor from the speci c DC pump
only emits very minute amounts of back EMF due to
the motor's size and the shaft's reluctance to stop
immediately. When it comes to switching, adding a y
back diode is a common practice in electronics.
Although I haven't had problems with the absence of
a y back diode in this speci c project, If a diode is
available at hand, It would be better to add the diode
just be sure.

Step 12: Wire the Simple Circuit

Follow the diagram and solder the wires and components together, poorman style.

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Step 13: Add a USB Male Plug

The project was designed to operate at voltages under 6 volts. USB power was the most universally available source
I could think of that gives 5 volts. You can get salvage any USB cable you have lying around. Cut the other end of
the cable and use your wire stripper.

Step 14: Hot Glue the Electronics

Once you have nished soldering the USB cable. You can test your project if it works. When you are con dent with
your wiring, you can cover the components under a blob of hot glue to keep it safe from touching each by accident
and to make it waterproof as well.

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Step 15: Choose a Power Source

Since the project runs on USB power. You can use a AC USB charger or a power bank for supplying power to the
dispenser. Depending on the capacity, a power bank would last weeks of operation. Using a powerbank makes the
dispenser a lot portable too!

Step 16: Calibrate the Sensor's Distance Threshold

The sensor comes with a tuning knob (trimmer resistor). You can use a at head screwdriver to tune it. The knob
limits the threshold range of detection. Turning it makes the sensor more sensitive or less sensitive.

DIY Automatic Alcohol Dispenser (No Arduino Needed): Page 11

Step 17: Fill the Dispenser

You can now ll your dispenser with whatever liquid you want. It even works with viscous liquids such as liquid soap
and dish washing liquids! I made this project speci cally for hand wash alcohol since I use it often before and after
eating.

Step 18: Test It!

You're done! You can now test the project. Hope you guys enjoyed this tutorial!

DIY Automatic Alcohol Dispenser (No Arduino Needed): Page 12

Hola, soy técnico en Laboratorio. Pretendo implementarlo en mi área de trabajo. Buena idea!
Gracias. Use un transistor 2222a por el TIP32

Por que usaste el 2222a? porque consegui el TIP32 en mercadolibre, es por alguna razon en
especial?
Good work. I am thinking to build one but the part sourcing is difficult.
Two links points to China, which will take more than a month to get.
Other is Mouser for BJT, the cost for one is ~$29.

Any other source to buy these parts?

Thanks.
Instead of Arduino you can use a microcontroller which is used in Arduino (i.e. ATmega8) with your
own board. If you can't make a PCB, you can use an universal board. It can be programmed either
in Arduino IDE or in "pure" C (more professional). But I agree that using a microcontroller isn't
necessary here. You can make some timing circuit with capacitor charged/discharged through
resistor to limit how long time the pump works and protect from overspilling.
You don't have to use a liquid pump. If you have an air pump, you can use it to push air to the
container, and air will push the liquid. It must have a tight lid. Air pumps can be found in broken
electronic medical pressure meters.
A foot switch would work just as well.
Rescue a washing machine pressure switch or just adapt a microswitch.
As others have said, I would be a little wary of mixing a flammable solvent with even a small
electric motor of brush design.
Even 70% alcohol is going to be over-proof.
I think caution should be used when adding an electric motor to a jar of alcohol.

Its a submersible pump!

To remove the glue, plant oil (caola, sunflower etc.) is absolutely sufficient. Way friendlier to the
skin, non-igniteable. And the oil film is easily washed off when washing the jar.

DIY Automatic Alcohol Dispenser (No Arduino Needed): Page 13

Oh cool! Thanks for sharing this! Will try it, would be really useful!

That's the way I usually handle labels. Scrape off the top layer (which is often water- and oil-tight),
then put the oil on and let it soak a bit. Following this you're usually able to shift the remainders off.
Hola, soy técnico en Laboratorio y pretendo implementarlo en mi trabajo, gracias por la idea.

Nicely documented design.

If you change out the BJT to a MOSFET, you can get rid of the resistor. Just makes wiring it up
easier, and BJTs are not used very often in high end electronics design due to the cost of placing
the resistor.

Yes, you absolutely need the back EMF catch diode across the motor to keep the transistor from
blowing up, which it will do eventually.
I agree. I updated the tutorial and added a Step 11. Must have overlooked that part. I usually omit
the diode for devices with low back EMFs, this motor pump is one of them. The shaft continues to
rotate as power has been cut. Been using an older version of this project for two years now, no
signs of degradation. Nonetheless, it's a good practice to add one.

My original plan was to use a MOSFET. But then I remembered you needed a logic level P-
channel MOSFET for this one, due to the sensor's logic output. I only have N-channels MOSFETs
here. Being on quarantine, most local suppliers and shops are closed in our country. Had to stick
with what I had hahaha.
Good suggestion, but I would stick with the BJT in this application mainly for ESD immunity.
MOSFETs can be fried very easily with a static zap. If you use a MOSFET, you would need to
enclose the circuit and add some protection to the terminals. Count me in for the diode as well.
Something cheap and simple like the 1N4148 should do: https://www.digikey.com/product-
detail/en/on-semiconductor/1N4148/1N4148FS-ND/458603. Connect the cathode to pump red wire
and anode to pump black wire. When the pump runs, the diode is reverse biased. When the
transistor turns off and the pump tries to dump its stored magnetic energy in the form of a voltage
spike, the diode provides the dumping path.
What a great idea! It's a shame that many public toilets don't have this type of gadget.

Thanks! Hahaha, trueeeee!

A simple and well explained project. I was thinking of implementing a similar thing using an
Arduino
Thank you! An arduino would be a nice touch too! :)

Brilliant! Simpler is always better. :-)

Thanks! Agree :))

Good ible, thanks for posting it.

Some of the others are posting question that border on rude. Calm your jets people. He posted it.
It's mostly there. Figure out the rest on your own and mind your manners.

DIY Automatic Alcohol Dispenser (No Arduino Needed): Page 14

Hahaha. Thanks!

Without valve or lid to close the tube, alcohol will evaporate.

To allow for a short burst of cleaner couldn't you have the motor powered by a capacitor which
charges through a resistor? That would allow for a short burst of power to run the pump and then
the capacitor would discharge and take time to recharge. It would also be a reasonably metered
amount of fluid. Not sure what values you would need though.
That would work too! Although it would most certainly turn off longer compared to not having the
additional capacitor (RC). There are several circuits that would solve this. I will try to update the
tutorial.
Very smart easy to build cheap to build very less complicated and good presentation. Well done
my firend.
Thanks!

On step 10, you meant: the sensor's digital output is LOW by default when AN* object is detected.

Yes. Thanks for pointing that one out! :) Fixed it.

Simple and effective one angelo..

Excellent resources for DIY Projects I love it always.

Thank you! :)))

Nice nozzle, I wouldn't have thought to use a pen. Thanks for sharing!

Thanks! :))

I like the idea of using wire inside the tube to allow the it to be positioned. However, depending on
the type of wire used it may react with the alcohol and corrode over time.
Thanks! I agree.

The link for the DC Pump takes me to an image of the schema not to a water pump.

Sorry about that. Fixed it! :)

I found this one. I believe it is the same one used in this project.
https://www.amazon.com/Vipe-Micro-Submersible-Motor-Water/dp/B01N0X3CW4
I've had the same problem. Thought it was something I was doing wrong :-)

Are you sure the pump is safe to use with alcohol based liquids? Even the alcohol mixtures are
typically between 60-70%, the vapours can be flammable, be very careful on potential sparks from
the motor or any loose connections. I would only use this as a soap dispenser but not alcohol
based sanitizer. Safety first.
I had the same thoughts at first. I made an earlier version of this project, been using it for two years
now, haven't had a problem with it. RaymondR6 has a point. The motor has gaskets sealing the
shaft, the motor itself is glued shut. My only concern was if the alcohol would react to the plastic.
Two years later, it hasn't softened or gotten brittle :))
If the pump is submersible, all the electrical contacts are sealed inside and no sparks will happen.
Besides, you also need oxygen for a spark to ignite the alcohol, and while it is inside the fluid,
there isn't any oxygen.

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You could also use a peristaltic pump as an alternative to the type of DC pump used here. It's
pricier, but if you find the normal type of DC pump has trouble with certain types of liquids, it's
perhaps worth looking into.
I agree. I would do the same if it wasn't for a tutorial as it would be completely isolated from any
sparks created by the brushes of the DC motor and have less plastic exposed to the alcohol. As for
this one, I kept it simple for the first timers. I made an earlier version of this project, been using it
for two years now, haven't had a problem with it. But yeah, a peristaltic pump is a way better
choice, cost aside.
This is definitely safer than the "regular" low cost liquid pump if you're pumping alcohol based
liquids.
For Indians u may buy from the below seller or any local market
https://robu.in/product/ir-infrared-obstacle-avoid...
Nice project, but as it's gonna to be used extremely often i think a better variant is to use simple
AA(A) batteries, or maybe high capacity Li Ion without wires hanging around. Basically all-in-one
box, to avoid catching them.
Thanks! Agree. Well, a powerbank is pretty much the same. Technically it's cheaper as it comes
with a step-up DC-DC converter and a charging circuit, all in one box :)
I feel that you do not mention all the supplies you need. For example what kind of wire and the
resistor.

Also It would be helpful to go through the tools that you need to use.

That would help noobs in electronics like me.

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