Toys For Boys PDF

Toys For Boys
Table of Contents
Toy Car Garage

Toy Car Garage 3
Cars
Toy Racing Car 18
Batmobile Toy Car 28
Sedan Toy Car 38
Roadster Toy Car 44
4x4 Offroad Car 63
Motorcycle
Wooden Toy Motorcycle 69
Batman Motorcycle Scroll Saw Pattern 82
Trains
Wooden Toy Train 89
Switching Engine Toy Train 106
Trucks
Truck Winch Operated 120
Truck Lever Operated 146
Mid Size Dump Truck 159
Dump Truck Mini 174
Micro Truck 178
Earth Moving Construction Toys

Road Grader 185
Road Roller 195
Airplane
Wooden Toy Airplane 208
Continued next page
Toys for Boys Title Page

Table of Contents
Bonus Wooden Toy Plans

Making large diameter wheels 138
Click on the link below or type the address into your search engine.
https://wooden-toy-plans.com/bonus-toys-for-boys
Toy Car Garage Plans List
1. Plan View Sheet 1
2. Plan View Sheet 2
3. East Section View
4. Parts List
5. Cutting List
6. Details
Table of Contents
Visit wooden-toy-plans.com for more free plans
Building Guide Toy Car Garage
It's always a good idea to have a careful look at the plans. Start by marking out the parts of your
sheet of MDF or plywood.
Step By Step Instructions

It's always a good idea to have a careful look at the plans. Start by marking out the parts of your
sheet of MDF or plywood.
Each step is on a separate page if you want to priint them.
Table of Contents
Elevator Construction Details.
The elevator module is designed to run along guide rails situated both sides of the lift shaft.
I have seen a number of elevator designs, this one seems to be the easiest and most practical way.
The guide rails are made from half-round dowel.
There is a corresponding v-cut groove in the sides of the elevator, which allows the elevator to run
up and down the elevator shaft.
Step 1
Make the lift shaft. Fix the half round dowel lift guide to both sides of the lift shaft L1. Fix the
supports in place as shown.
Table of Contents
Step 2
Make the car lift. Cut a V-groove in parts L3. Adjust the size of part L4 to ensure that it will run
smoothly inside the lift shaft.
Table of Contents
Step 3
Ground floor assembly. Cut a bevel on the edges for the toy cars after marking out the position of
the walls.
Glue the walls and the lift shaft in place. This forms the support for the first floor. Fix the support
for the first floor ramp.
Table of Contents
Step 4
Fix the first floor in place. Fix the first floor ramp. Fix the edge surround (shown red) in place.
Table of Contents
Step 5.
Second floor assembly. Fix the second floor supports in place as shown. Fit the second floor ramp.
Fix the edges in place.
Table of Contents
Conclusion
I certainly hope you have enjoyed making this project. Use this contact me form if you would like
to submit your project to the photo gallery.
Table of Contents
Plans List Toy Racing Car
1. Full Size Templates
Table of Contents
om
s.c
lan
o y-p
e n-t
od
wo
Building GuideToy Racing Car
The photo shows the racing car driven by Big Heart Bear. In spite of it's simple appearance, there is
a bit of a challenge, which relates to getting the wheels to fit neatly into the wheel arches.
Use contrasting wood for the fenders, and laminate a darker piece in the middle to give it that “go
faster” racing stripe.
Materials.
Pine 19mm (¾ inch) thick by 100mm (4 inch) wide x 800mm (31 ½ inch) long. Optional meranti or
darker wood 12mm (½ inch) thick by 75mm (3 inch) wide by 260mm (10 ¼ inch) long.
For the template, use thin MDF board or masonite or plywood 260mm (10 ¼ inch) long by 140 (5
½ inch) wide.
For the axle, use 6mm dowel at least 180mm long.
Tools.
This toys can be made with a limited number of power tools. Safety is the first consideration when
dealing with power tools. This is a list of tools that I used:
• Jigsaw for cutting a rough outline.
• Bandsaw when cutting more accurate outline.
• Drill press.
• A circle cutter modified to cut wheels instead of holes.
• Router with a 6mm round-over bit, but you can use a wood file or sandpaper.
Table of Contents
• A 12 inch disk sander, but it's not essential to this project.
Step by step instructions.

Download and print the toy car plans on your home printer. Trace the outline of the body shape and
the mudguards onto thin MDF or plywood or even stiff card and cut it out.
For the wheels to fit in the wheel arch, it is important that the centre of the wheel arch and the hole
for the axle are drilled accurately. To do this, I place the mudguard template over the body template
and drill a pilot hole through both templates.
Step 1
The photo shows how a pair of nails through the template ensures the accurate placement of the
wheel arches.
Table of Contents
Step 2
Using my trusty drill press, I cut the holes that will form the wheel arches. A drill press is strongly
recommended for this step.
The leftover centres can be used to make a pair of wheels.
Clicking on the link will take you to a page for instructions on how to make your own wooden toy
wheels.
Cut and paste the link into your web browser:
https://wooden-toy-plans.com/make-wheels
Table of Contents
Step 3
Using a half round file to remove the burr left by the modified circle cutter.
Table of Contents
Step 4
1. Make a template for the body and use it to cut a rough shape on as many pieces of wood that you
may want to use for the body. I used two pieces of 19mm pine and a contrasting piece of 12mm
meranti sandwiched in the middle.
The photo showing the parts rough cut ready to be glued together. Note the template in the
foreground and for what it's worth, the mudguard with the wheel arches cut out in the background.
Table of Contents
Step 5
2. I cut the mudguards to shape with the bandsaw, then used the 6mm roundover bit in a router to
round over the edges. If you are not comfortable using a router on such small pieces of wood, it
would be much safer using a half round bastard file and 80 grit sandpaper.
Note that the wheel arches are to be rounded over on one side only as the other side is to be glued
to the body.
3. Clamping the mudguard to a sawhorse, I cut it in half with a tenon saw. This is where I used the
12 inch disc sander to square off the middle part, and to shape the two ends.
4. By now the glued up body parts has set enough for me to handle it. I cut out the shape with a
bandsaw, then sanded the saw marks away with a combination of a half round bastard file and 80
grit sandpaper. This is where a drum sander would've come in handy.
5. Round off the edges of the body with a 6mm round over bit in a router. If you are not comfortable
using a router on small bits, use a half round bastard file and 80 grit sandpaper .
6. I only thought about this afterwards, so you can benefit from my mistake. Staining the
mudguards a deeper colour or using contrasting food colouring would make the toy more attractive,
so now is the time to do it before gluing the mudguards in place. My mistake was to try to stain it
afterwards, and the problem is that the glue makes the stain blotchy.
Wiping the glue off before it sets, fair enough, but have a look at step 12. and you will see it is
virtually impossible to do this.
Table of Contents
Step 6
Hold the mudguards in place, mark and drill the holes for the axles. Now, with the wheels on, glue
the mudguards. Try not to apply too much glue at this stage. I suggest marking the areas to be glued
lightly with a pencil.
Table of Contents
Step 7
The photo showing the clamps in place. This also illustrates the wisdom of pre-staining mudguards
before assembly, as noted in step 10.
When the glue has set, you can apply a dab of glue to the axles to fix the wheels in place, and viola,
you now have your very own road racer.
Finishing
There are many ways to apply a finish to a wooden toy. I have used food colouring on pine to good
effect.
Link to child safe paints for finding a non toxic paint that is child safe and zero volatile organic
compounds in an over-toxicated world an article on non toxic paint by Deliah Jones.
Conclusion
Table of Contents
Batmobile Toy Car Plans List
1. Full size pattern for the body
2. Full size pattern for the fenders
Batmobile Toy Car
Building Guide.
Materials
Any scrap wood or recycled timber can be used to make this toy car.
o make this one I used pine board about 500mm long and about 95mm wide, with a piece of 12mm
thick maple sandwiched in between.
The total thickness for the body come to 50mm or 2 inches.
The fenders were made from recycled barbecue measuring about the same, but only about 15mm
thick. Not sure what wood it is, but it does contrast very well with the pine.
I used a hole saw of 51mm diameter, which produces a wheel of about 45mm across, a little smaller
than commercially available wooden wheels.
This is a link to a page on how I use a fly cutter to make my own wheels.
Copy and paste the URL http://wooden-toy-plans.com/make-wheels
The wheels are painted with food colouring, mixing all the colours to create the black colour.
I started by pasting the paper pattern onto piece of thin MDF and cutting out the shape with a scroll
saw. This enables me to make an outline onto the work-piece to see how it will fit.
Copyright 2020 wooden-toy-plans.com Batmobile toy car.odt

wooden-toy-plans.com
For the body, you can use 2 pieces 19mm thick

with a contrasting piece 12mm thick
sandwiched in the middle.
This will make the the body 50mm wide.
The wheels are 19mm thick and 50mm diameter.

Optional extra wheels.
Fenders are 12mm thick

contrasting timber.
Showing the outline of the two body halves. The idea is to have the end grain forming a V shape in
the front.
There is even space for two wheels.
No point in wasting precious wood, even if it is only recycled.

Lay the template onto the work piece to show how the wheel fits. Note the fender shapes are back to
back, making it a little easier to cut on the scroll saw. Find it better than having too many small
pieces.
Copyright 2020 wooden-toy-plans.com

Using my trusty (modified) circle cutter to cut out part of the fender pattern. I could use this as a
front wheel, or add to my collection of home made wheels.
Another reason to keep the piece intact to make it easier to clamp in place.
To glue the fenders to the body, use paper discs where the wheel arches are going to be cut out.

Using a round chisel to carve out the flutes that gives the characteristic rocket power.
Using a hole saw to cut out the wheel arches.
Final steps
Round over the sharp edges, glue the wheels in place and viola! All you need to do now is to fire up
the rockets and take it for a test drive.

Did You Know…
you can share photos of your projects on the gallery page.
Click on the link Copy and paste into your browser

Woodworking Projects Gallery https://wooden-toy-plans.com/gallery
Visit the gallery page to see what others have made.
Contact me https://wooden-toy-plans.com/AskMeAnything
Ask me anything.
Copyright https://wooden-toy-plans.com/copyright
Thank you for respecting my copyright.

Toy Car Design Plans List
1. Full Size Temple Fender
2. Full Size Temple Body
Table of Contents
om
s.c
an
-pl
oy
e n-t
od
wo
Toy Car Mk2 Template
om
s.c
an
-pl
oy
e n-t
od
wo
Toy Car Mk2 Template
Building Guide Toy Car Design
Simple, smart and stylish wooden car designs. Simple and easy to make scroll saw project, ideal for
beginners and a relaxing project for experienced woodworkers.
Tools
Tools are an essential part of working with wood, and having the right tools can make a difference
in how much you enjoy the hobby of making wooden toys and other woodworking projects.
To make this wooden toy car, I used a scroll saw. You could also use a band saw if you have one. If
you have the patience and determination, you could even make this toy with a fret saw.
To cut the wheel arches, I used a modified fly cutter. This also gives me a set of wheels. More about
this is Step 2.
You may prefer to use a set of standard wheels bought from any number of suppliers.
A drill press is recommended for accuracy and if you are going to be using a fly cutter. I make my
wheels with an electric drill mounted in a drill stand.
I find a B&D Workmate is another useful tool, and I made my own workbench.
The short answer: cut 4 pieces 230mm long x 90mm wide x 19mm thick.
For this project, I used some Jelutong wood. It is quite soft compared to most other wood types,
ideal for carving and it’s a joy to cut with a scroll saw, especially if you are a beginner scroll saw-er
like me.
Most of the time I use Pine wood for making my toys, and sometimes I find a piece of exotic wood.
Table of Contents
Most of the toys I make are basically prototypes or proof of concept, generally for the joy of
making toys and to make the photographs for these instructions.
So, use whatever you have, and as far as I am concerned, Pine is fine.
Step by Step instructions
Step 1
Glue two of the pieces you have cut out together. This will become the body.
I like to cut out the fender shape in one piece, so to do this, I make a paper sandwich.
The photo shows the paper sandwich fender part and the wheel making step, all in one go.
Much easier to show you a photo than to try to describe it.
Notice how I have clamped the work-piece with a backing board. If you have a drill press, I
recommend the slowest speed setting, otherwise the fly cutter gets really hot and will burn the
wood.
It is also important to pre-drill the holes for the axles. This fly cutter will only cut through half way,
so you are going to have to turn the piece around and drill from the other side.
This step is essentially like making your own wheels. Some people would use a hole saw instead,
and that is fine. One thing to remember is that the hole saw diameters are measured for the holes
they make, so be aware that the wheel will come out slightly smaller.
Another thing about making wheels with a hole saw is to allow the sawdust to escape. One way to
do this is to cut the hole close enough to the edge.
Step 3
Cutting out the fender shape on the scroll saw or band saw is quite straightforward. No fancy tricks
here.
However, to make the body shape, there is an internal shape to cut out. Impossible on the band saw,
and quite awkward on an entry level scroll saw like mine.
So, what I suggest is to make a relief cut on the underside of the bodywork, where it is less
noticeable.
Table of Contents
Step 4
Test fit the pieces. The wheels are held in place with the dowels to check how the wheel arches fit.
All looks good at this stage.
Now I am going to round over all the edges. For the fenders, I shall be rounding over the outer
edges a bit more that in inside edges, so I make a pencil mark on each of the inside faces.
Final assembly
Once all the edges are rounded over, it’s time to glue everything together. I use wood glue, and to
stop the pieces from moving under clamping pressure, I like to use wooden dowels.
Here I decided to try something different: metal dowels in the form of small one inch nails, driven
into one side, cut the heads off and sharpen with a metal file.
Allow about 6mm or so of the nail sticking out. With the wheels in place, apply the glue and firmly
push the fender in place, keeping an eye on the gap around the wheel arches. Do the same with the
other side.
Remove the wheels, and clamp the assembly, wiping off excess glue.
Here I have stained the fenders a dark mahogany colour.
Toy Car Roadster Plans List
• Parts Template
• Fender Template
• Chassis Diagram Not To Scale
• Fender Diagram Not To Scale
Table of Contents
om
Part A
s.c
lan
y -p
Hinge point to
match Part D
-to
en
od
wo
Part B Part D
Part C
Toy Car Roadster Templates
toy car roadster Mk2.dwg Sheet 1 of 4
join here
om
s.c
lan
y -p
-to
join here
en
od
wo
om
Part F
s.c
Make 2
lan
y -p
-to
en
od
Part E
wo
Make 1
join here
Mudguard Template Not to Scale
Toy Car Roadster
Sheet 4 of 4
Building Guide Toy Car Roadster
Plans List
1. Body Template
2. Mudguard Template
3. Chassis Sketch Not To Scale
4. Template Sketch Not To Scale
Introduction
This toy is inspired by the roadster models of the 1930's.
The completed toy approximate measurements:
315mm (12.4”) long
160mm (6.3”) wide
115mm (4.5”) high
The toy is deceptively simple, it represents an interesting challenge to experienced woodworkers
and toy makers, yet simple enough for beginners.
The basic method of construction is made up of three sub-assemblies:
Table of Contents
1. The body assembly, steps 1 to 5.
2. The chassis, step 6.
3. The mudguards, steps 7 to 9.
Step 10 shows how the body sub-assembly is fixed to the chassis, and step 11 shows how the
mudguards and wheels are fixed in place.
There are several types of radiator to make.
The final step is to fit all the parts together and apply the finish of your choice.
Tools
This is a short list of power tools used in this project.
Power drill corded or battery powered.
Drill press with a circle cutter for making wooden wheels.
Bandsaw.
Router mounted in a router table.
Tenon saw, also known as a back saw.
Combination square
Woodworking clamps.
Hacksaw to cut the dowel axles to length.
Wood file to round over all the edges.
Sanding block with 120 and 80 grit sandpaper.
A selection of drill bits.
Step by Step Instructions.

Each step is listed on a separate page.
Table of Contents
Step 1
Cut out the parts A through D, making sure to cut outside of the line.
Parts B, C and D are made up of three pieces laminated together. While the glue is setting, make a
template of the mudguard from thin card, plywood or MDF.
The photo shows the parts rough cut and placed in position on one side of part A.
Table of Contents
Step 2
Parts B, C and D are trimmed to size and sanded smooth.

The photo shows the red lines as the surfaces to trim, leaving the green edges untrimmed at this
stage.
The idea is to trim these areas once the parts are glued together in the next step.
Table of Contents
Step 3
The photo above shows parts A, B and C glued together. The area shown red is left untrimmed. This
will be done in Step 7 once part D (the rumbler seat) is in place.
Table of Contents
Step 4
Mark the position of the hole for the hinge pin in part D.
The photo above shows part D in place. Note the red line on part A marking the position of the
hinge dowel.
Measure 150mm or 5 7/8” from the red line to the blue wedge shape as shown. This is cut out in the
next step to form the bonnet.
Table of Contents
Step 5
Cutting out the bonnet shape with a band saw.

Sand the complete assembly to a smooth finish and round over all the edges with a 6mm round over
bit mounted in a router table.
Table of Contents
Step 6
Cut out the parts E and F that make up the chassis. Note the width of part E should match the
thickness of parts B (and C) so that the overall width of the chassis matches the width of the
bodywork.
The diagram above shows the parts E and F that make up the chassis and part D in place, with the
hinge dowel shown purple. Note that the holes for the wheels are not drilled at this stage.
Table of Contents
Step 7
Using the template made earlier to mark out the shape of the mudguards. Cut the heads off two
nails. Drill two small holes to suit, and mount the template on the workpiece as shown. Trace the
oultline, then flip the template over the axis as shown by the red line and trace the corresponding
mirror outline.
The red line also represents the line to cut along.
Table of Contents
Step 8
Attached a second piece with wood screws in each corner as shown. Don't apply any glue at this
stage.
Using a circle cutter mounted in a drill press, cut out a 50mm [2”] wheel as shown. This has the
effect of cutting through one layer, leaving a groove in the second layer.
Using a plunge router, rout the hole to a depth of 25mm [1”] as show in the diagram.
Dissemble, apply glue and reassemble.
Table of Contents
Step 9
Showing the pair completed mudguard assemblies.

Once the glue has set, cut the assembly in half along the red line as shown in step 8.
The corners are rounded over with a 6mm [1/4”] roundover bit in a router mounted in a router table.
Note the red dots highlight the small indentations left over from making the wheel arches. These
indentations are used in part to determine the position of the holes for the axles in the next step.
Table of Contents
Step 10
Showing the chassis being fixed to the bodywork.

Note Part D in place. The red dot shows the position of the hinge dowel as determined in Step 4.
Part D (the rumbler seat) is to be made a little thinner to enable it to rotate.
Three blue dots show how the two assemblies are clamped together using 55-60mm wood screws.
The position of the fourth wood screw is obscured by the drill.
With the rumbler seat in position, the area shaded red in Step 3 may now be sanded smooth and
rounded over.
Table of Contents
Step 11
Showing the mudguards in place, with the wheels used to mark the holes for the axles. Note the
importance of accuracy here will affect the appearance of the wheels in the wheel arch.
The mudguards are glued in place.
Table of Contents
Step 12
The final step is to make and attach the radiator. The photo shows optional radiator shapes.
Table of Contents
Final
Big Heart Bear and his Mum off to the Teddy Bears Picnic in their brand new roadster.
Spare wheel is an optional extra.
The toy may be left untreated, treated with Danish Oil, or food colouring is quite effective.
Finishing
effect.
Conclusion
Table of Contents
Wooden Toy Motorcycle Plans List
1. Full Size Templates Toy Motorcycle
2. Full Size Templates Toy Quadbike
3. Isometric View Quadbike
4. Exploded View Quadbike
5. Full Size Template Toy Motorecycle Mk2
wo
od
en
-to
y -pl
an
s.c
o m
wo
od
e n-
to
y-
pl
an
s .c
om
om
s.c
lan
-p
oy
e n-t
od
wo
Isometric View
Wooden Toy Quadbike wooden-toy-plans.com
Exploded Isometric View
Wooden Toy Quadbike wooden-toy-plans.com
m
.co
la ns
y-p
- to
en
od
wo
Building Guide Wooden Toy Motorcycle
Here is a wooden toy motorcycle that is easy to make.

Made from 1 inch and ½ inch project timber, which measures 19mm and 12mm thick. The dowels
for the axels are 3/8 or 8mm diameter.
The wheels are 2 inches or 50mm diameter.
Follow the link to see how I made my own wheels using a modified circle cutter. Copy and paste
the link into your web browser: http://wooden-toy-plans.com/Wooden_Toy_Wheels
Tools
All you need is a scroll saw or a band saw, and an electric drill.
Step By Step Instructions

Each step is on a separate page if you would like to print them.
Table of Contents
Step 1
The paper templates are cut out and pasted onto the wood. Here I am using 12mm thick maple
recycled from a bureau of drawers.
To cut the two sides, I join the pieces with double sided tape. The paper template is glued on with
paper glue.
The middle section, shown on top, is made from recycled pallet timber, shown in its raw state. It
measures about 23mm thick once it has been cleaned up.
The wheels are made from project timber which is normally 19mm thick, so this gives the wheels
enough clearance to spin freely.
Step 2
Cutting out the sides using a scroll saw. The two sides are stacked and held in place with double
sided tape.
Table of Contents
Step 3
To make sure the holes are properly aligned, the dowel is holding everything in place to drill the
second hole.
Table of Contents
Step 4
Dry fit the parts to make sure the wheels can turn freely. Here I have made a set of plastic washers
from a milk bottle using a hollow punch.
Note the pencil outline showing the areas to apply the glue.
Table of Contents
Here’s a useful tip if you like: fluted dowels are best for making joints, but they will probably not be
long enough for this application.
To make something similar, I gently but firmly squeeze the dowel with a pair of pliers as shown in
the photo. Be careful not to squeeze too much or you will crush the wood fibres and weaken the
dowel.
Alternatively you can use a hacksaw blade and scrape along the length of the dowel.
Table of Contents
Here’s another tip – cut a slot in the end of the dowel that is glued into the sides. This will help to
relieve the pressure and prevent the wood from splitting. It also provides a small reservoir of glue.
The slot is cut with a hacksaw, I use a junior hacksaw because the blade is thinner.
Two things to bear in mind – cut the slot along the grain, and when inserting the dowel, make sure it
is also in the same direction as the grain.
Final Assembly.
Round over the outer edges. I use a half round file and 80 grit sandpaper.
Glue one side first with the dowels for the axles in place. The directions for the glue that I use says
to clamp for at least 30 minutes.
With the wheels and the plastic washers in place, the other side can be glued and clamped in place.
Once the glue has set, trim the dowels flush, give it a final sanding and its ready for your favourite
varnish or paint.
Table of Contents
Batman Motorcycle Scroll Saw Patterns
1. Full Size Scroll Saw Patterns
Handlebars
Building Guide Batman Motorcycle
Here is an easy scroll saw project that is fun to make.
Method of construction
How to make this batman motorbike.
Material:
Two sheets of MDF 3mm thick cut to size 120mm by 200mm. For the centre piece, I was planning
to use 12mm thick MDF. Instead I laminated four sheets of 3mm to make up the thickness required.
The photo shows the pattern ready to be cut out. I have drilled the holes for the axles, and a few
more holes in strategic places to allow me to make sharp turns with the scroll saw.
The two 3mm thick pieces of MDF are glued in place with a sheet of paper because I want to
separate the pieces once the pattern is cut out. I could have use double sided mounting tape instead.
Table of Contents
Showing the pattern cut out. The red is 12mm thick and the blue is 3mm thick.
The shape is cut out, and the two outer sides are removed. The blue shading is the areas to be cut
away.
The central core is modified as shown in the photo. I have decided to paint the red trim at this stage.
Table of Contents
Showing the two outer parts are glued in place. Note that it is a good idea to insert the axles while
the glue is setting – this will ensure that the parts are aligned.
Making the wheels
The wheels are made by laminating three discs, with the centre disc having a smaller diameter,
resulting in a wheel with a groove in the middle. This will allow me to use a rubber o-ring as a tyre.
The wheels are also made in a batch, using the sandwich method. It's a good idea to use a centre
punch to drill the holes.
Cut out the holes, cut the circle shape as close to the line as possible without touching it.
Table of Contents
Here I am using a simple jig and a disc sander to sand the wheels round.
Make the two internal discs using the same technique.
Showing the wheels with the red trim painted. Note the groove in the middle. The wheel is ready to
be painted.
The batwing handlebars cut out and ready to be painted.
Table of Contents
Final Assembly
Glued up and ready for painting, but batman insisted on a test ride first. Luckily there wasn't too
much fuel in the tank, and he didn't get too far.
Make a set of plastic washers using a hollow punch set. Cut the axles to size, and mount the wheels.
Glue the handlebars in place.
Conclusion
Table of Contents
Wooden Toy Train Plans List
1. Sheet 1 Parts
2. Sheet 2 Parts
Exploded View
Table of Contents
Wooden Toy Train
om
s.c
an
-pl
oy
e n-t
od
wo
Wooden Toy Train
om
s.c
an
-pl
oy
e n-t
od
wo
Wooden Toy Train
Building Guide Wooden Toy Train Plans
Barbie dolls and wooden toy trains don't normally go together, but I was trying to show the scale of
the toy train.
This set of toy train plans is inspired by sketches that I found on the internet. First published in The
Woodworker in 1943, it measures 34 inches long, 7 inches wide and about 13 inches high.
The original is big enough for a small child to ride on. After giving the project due consideration, I
thought is was just a little too big for my liking, so I decided to make a smaller version.
There are several reasons why I decided to make this project. One of them was the way the boiler
was made, cooper style, which is to say the way beer barrels were made, you know, out of wood, in
the old days.
If you have access to a lathe, making the boiler should be a lot easier than the way I made mine with
a finishing plane. It does require a bit of patience and persistence, but it is worth it in the end.
Making Wooden Toy Wheels

How to make wooden toy wheels Click on the link for step by step instructions.
Cut and paste the following url into your browser:
http://wooden-toy-plans.com/make-wheels
Table of Contents
Making the boiler.
Step 1
Step 1
Start by cutting three strips just a tad longer than twice the length of the boiler as shown in the toy
train plans. If you have a table saw, I would imagine it is easy enough to cut the three strips at an
angle of 60 degrees. I cut the ones in the photo with a hand saw and trimmed to size with a Stanley
No. 2 finishing plane.
Step 2
Step 2
Cut each of the six pieces in half to length. Mark the grain direction with a pencil.
Step 3
Step 3
This is where I used a hot melt glue to make three pairs, but I suggest you make two halves. It
would make it much easier to true up the final joints.
Step 4
Step 4
Drill a shallow hole to accommodate the smokestack. To help with creating a cylinder, I pasted a
paper disc on either end.
Note the direction of the grain shown in pencil.
If you have access to a lathe, this step is much easier than the way I did it, with a finishing plane.
Table of Contents
Step 5
Step 5
To create a dome effect on the front of the boiler – the photo shows one way to draw a pencil guide
line about 4mm from the edge. Draw another line about 8mm from the edge as well.
Step 6
Step 6
Draw a circle of diameter 30mm on top. Using a sharp chisel, and a slicing action, carve away from
the edge towards the centre. Remember to make small, shallow cuts.
Once that is complete, from the top this time, carve away at about 45 degrees towards the second
line . You should have a barn roof type of profile, and it is a simple matter to carve away to achieve
an elliptical profile.
Table of Contents
Step 7
Step 7
Showing the final shape after rough sanding using 80 grit sandpaper.
Table of Contents
Making The Chassis
Start by measuring and cutting out the base (part A) and two frames (part B.) Note that for the base,
the wheel clearance cut-out will be made later.
Photo 1: Mark the position for the large wheel.

Measure and drill the holes for the axles for the four sets of smaller wheels. It is a good idea to
clamp the two rails together and to use a drill press or a drill guide to ensure the axle holes are
vertically aligned.
To make sure the large wheel is the same level as the rest, use the method shown in the photo above
to mark the position.
Photo 2: Mark the wheel clearance.

Drill the hole for the large wheel. With this wheel in position, mark the wheel clearance, as shown
in red. We are going to use these marks to cut the wheel well in the base.
Table of Contents
Photo 3: Transfer the marks.
Place the rails in position and transfer the marks onto the base board, shown green in the photo.
Mark the width of the cut-out to fit the thickness of the wheel, allowing for enough clearance. It is
essential to use a mortise gauge to do this, the reason why will become clear later. Do the same for
the other side, which is to say top and bottom.
To make the cut-outs, I used a scroll saw for one side, and a jigsaw for the other in order to prove to
myself that either way would achieve the same result, which indeed it does.
Photo 4: Rough cut.

Photo 4 above shows the result of using a scroll saw on one side, and a jigsaw on the other. As you
can see, there is no real difference.
Notice the grooves left by the mortice gauge. This will prove useful in the next step.
Table of Contents
Photo 5: Clean up with a chisel.
The focus is a bit soft, but what I am trying to show is how to clean up with a sharp chisel. Instead
of cutting perpendicular to the grain and banging away with a hammer, use a slicing action as show
in the photo above. The right hand provides the force, and the left hand (not shown for clarity) is for
control. Make small light shavings with a scything action. Aim to make a shallow inverted V shape
instead of trying to cut perpendicular. This will help to prevent tear out.
This is also where the groove made by the mortice gauge prove to be most useful, as you will no
doubt discover as you try it for yourself.
Turn the piece around and do the same again, this time working towards making the inverted V
shape shallower until it becomes perpendicular.
The corners will prove to be something of a challenge because of the end grain, and it becomes
apparent why a sharp chisel is so important. Employ the same technique as before, this time with a
bit more care. The idea here is to make sawdust instead of shavings. Aim to cut as little as possible
without compressing the grain.
If this is your first time cutting cross grain with a chisel, I would suggest practising on a piece of
scrap until you get the idea.
Trying to make joints in pine is not easy because it is so soft and the annular rings by contrast so
much harder to cut, but it can be done to a relatively satisfactory degree with a little patience and a
fair amount of practice. The idea is to cut as little as possible with tools that are really sharp.
Table of Contents
Photo 5: An example of how not to do it.
The photo above shows the results of how not to cut a mortice. Note the rather large tear out in the
end grain and along the edges. It behoves me to say that I was able to repair it with wood filler in
case it happens to you as well.
Photo 6: A selection of files.

The photo above Photo 6 shows a small selection of files that could be useful in giving the final
finish.
1. Square file about 9mm
2. Half round
3. Flat file about 2.5mm thick
4. Another flat file about 6mm thick
You will not need all of these tools, only one or two, perhaps No. 2 the half round would be the
most useful all rounder.
Table of Contents
Making The Cab And Tender
Photo 6: Making the cab
Making the cab by temporarily fixing the sides together. You can use double sided tape here. Drill
holes in the corners using an 8mm brad point drill bit. The centre points are indicated by the red
dots in the photo.
Photo 7: Cutting the windows

Once the holes are drilled, with a steel ruler and a marking knife, make a shallow groove tangent to
each hole, shown by the red lines in the photo above. Cut out the windows with a jigsaw or scroll
saw, or even a fret saw.
Using a sharp chisel, place it in the groove formed by the cutting knife, and push down vertically.
This is somewhat surprising as to how little force is needed to cut through MDF.
Table of Contents
Photo 8: Attach one side
For the cab and the tender, glue one side in place to form an L-shape. Photo 8 shows one way to do
this, with a block of wood on one side and a square on the other. In this instance, I am using a type
of wood glue that does not need clamping, and it does set quite quickly.
Photo 9: Pre-paint the cab assembly

Make the doors using the full size templates. The small knobs are made by rounding over a piece of
8mm dowel on either end and cutting each end about 10mm long. Using an 8mm brad point drill
bit, drill a shallow hole into each door to fit the knobs.
The photo shows the inside of the cab pre-painted with the doors held in place with small nails.
Note the red lines – this is to indicate a small clearance to prevent the doors jamming when they are
rotated open.
Table of Contents
Photo 10: Fixing the cab and tender
The frames and the buffers are fixed in place, and the L-shape of the cab and tender are glued in
place. Note the small offset from the edge of the base, this is called a shadow line.
The boiler fitted with the saddle in place, the nails for the doors driven home, and the rest of the cab
and tender are glued in place.
Photo 12: Making the smokestack
The smokestack is made up of two parts: the stub is a 19mm dowel (same size as a broomstick) and
the cap is a 32mm dowel, which happens to be the same size as a wooden curtain rod.
Drill a hole about half of the height of the cap, and glue the assembly in place on to the boiler.
Table of Contents
Photo 13: Ready for painting
Painting and Finishing
The toy is complete and ready for painting in colours of your choice. It's best to remove the wheels
and glue them in place once the paint has dried.
Make a set of plastic plastic washers using a hollow punch to stop the wheels rubbing on the sides.
Conclusion
I hope you have fun making this wooden toy train.
Visit the woodworkers gallery page to share photos of your project.
If you have any questions please use this contact me form.
Table of Contents
Switching Engine
Copyright 2020 wooden-toy-plans.com switching-engine.odt

This toy train is based on the design of an eighteenth century switching engine by Alfred D Slater.
In the UK and other parts of the world it is also known as a shunting train, a compact workhorse
used in a shunting yard to move both trains and carriages (or railway cars) in a marshalling yard.
This toy train is intended to be a display model even though it is simple enough to be a beginners
project.
The collection of plans includes drawings showing full size templates and a SketchUp file. The
SketchUp file includes a 3d animation sequence showing the construction.
When I first saw this plan, I was amazed at the level of detail, and knowing the level of skill
amongst model makers out there, I thought the toy was to be made entirely out of wood.
However, upon a random perusal of the text, I learned that the boiler was made from a cardboard
tube. I was somewhat taken aback by this idea, far from being a purist, I thought it would be easy
enough to turn a cylinder on a lathe.
Reading further, the toy is painted in black enamel paint with aluminium and bronze paint for steel
and brass with pipes of wire.
Tools
Tools you may need:
• Scroll saw
• Dremel tool
• Wood lathe
Construction Notes
Each wheel is made by centring the stock on a piece of wood that is fastened onto the lathe face
plate, then turning the edge to form a flange. Axle and crankpin holes are bored and the spoke are
cut out with a scroll saw.
Make two hardwood frames and cross braces. Nail them together and add a breast-beam, a pilot
platform, and a rear buffer.
Using 5/8” dowel stock, turn the axles on the lathe. Slide them into the frame bearing holes, insert a
1/8” by 5/8” by 1-3/4” spacer between each axle and the adjacent cross brace, and nail the spacers
to the cross braces. Complete this assembly by gluing the wheels to the axles.
Make the main and side rods from 1/8” stock. Mount the side rods on the 1/8” crank pins. Secure
them to the forward pins with tacked on celluloid disks. Put the dowels spacers, as shown, on the
rear pins, add the main rods, and tack on two more celluloid disks. For the moment, leave the
forward ends of the main rods alone.
Cut the saddle, boiler foundation, cylinders and steam chests to the right size, assemble them, and
fasten them to the frame. Each cylinder has two holes. The upper one, 1/8” diameter, has a guide
Copyright 2020 wooden-toy-plans.com Page 3

rod glued into it.
The lower one, 5/32” in diameter, provides a sliding fit for the piston rod. Both cross head have the
piston rods glued into them and slide on the guides. Attach the forward ends of the main rods to
them with 1/8” dowels.
A cardboard tube is used for the boiler. Put a filler piece in each end and nail the back head to the
rear filler. There are two firebox foundations, as indicated, cut to fit under the aft end on the boiler.
The forward one is fastened with two screws, the after one with three screws that pass first through
the rear cross brace. The front end of the boiler is tied to the foundation and the saddle with a
machine screw.
Turn the steam dome, sand box and stack on the lathe and hollow the lower ends to fit the boiler.
Cut the headlight from wood and the bracket from sheet metal. Make the boiler front in the lathe.
Running boards and solid wood water tanks are assembled next and held in place with two dowels,
through the boiler and the firebox.
The cab and coal tank are plywood; the cab roof and the bracket between the coal tank floor and the
running board are Bristol board.
Make the couplers and cow catcher of wood, gangway steps of tin, and pipes of wire.
Apply a black enamel finish. Use aluminium and bronze paint for steel and brass.

Stage 1
Stage 2

Stage 3
Stage 4

Stage 5
Stage 6

Stage 7
Stage 8

Stage 9
Stage 10

The construction stages are complete.

Toy Tipper Truck Plans List
1. Toy Tipper Truck Isometric View
2. Toy Tipper Truck Cab Side Pattern Sheet 1
5. Toy Tipper Truck Parts Sheet 1
6. Toy Tipper Truck Parts Sheet 2
7. Toy Tipper Truck Cutting List Sheet 1
8. Toy Tipper Truck Cutting List Sheet 2
Table of Contents
om
s.c
an
-pl
oy
e n-t
od
wo
om
s.c
an
-pl
oy
e n-t
od
wo
om
s.c
an
-pl
oy
e n-t
od
wo
om
s.c
an
-pl
oy
e n-t
od
wo
om
s.c
an
-pl
oy
e n-t
od
wo
om
s.c
an
-pl
oy
e n-t
od
wo
Building Guide Toy Tipper Truck
Illustration 1: Second prototype Toy Tipper Truck

The idea of using a winch mechanism was inspired by a set of vintage plans that I discovered on the
internet.
Thinking about it, came up with the idea of using a scissors type of lifting mechanism because the
attachment point of the rope would only lift the tipper so far and no further.
So I whipped up a proof of concept model to see how it would work, and it did.
Tools.
This is a list of the tools that I used to make this toy truck project.
• Jig saw for rough cut.
• Scroll saw for final cut.
• Electric drill or drill press.
• Linisher or 12 inch disc sander.
• Hand saw.
• No. 2 smoothing plane.
The only tools you really need is something to cut curves and something to drill holes. I used a
scroll saw to cut out the cab parts, and a hand saw for the rest. The smoothing plane was used to
finish off the cut edges.
To make the wheels, I cut out the rough shape and sanded it round on the disc sander using a very
simple jig.
Table of Contents
Materials.
I always buy just a little more than I need for any project, that way I can make more toys out of the
leftover bits.
To make this prototype, I used a sheet of 9mm thick MDF aka Custom Wood or Supawood.
Because of the size of the toy, it may well spend a bit of time outdoors, in which chase you may
want to use plywood sealed with good quality paint.
For the chassis, use 19mm x 400mm stock about 1.2m long.
To make the wheels, I used 19mm x 140mm stock, also about 1.2m long.
To make the winch and the axles, a piece of dowel about 22mm in diameter, or a broomstick handle.
The scissor jack lifting mechanism is made from 12mm x 30mm stock, best to use maple here or
any other straight grained timber.
A length of 6mm or 8mm dowel.
A collection of toothpicks – why you need them will become clear later.
Table of Contents
Step by Step instructions.
Step 1.
Cut out all the parts as shown in the cutting diagram.
To make the cab I used a jig saw to rough cut, held them together with double sided tape and made
the final cut with a scroll saw.
Because I was using a hand saw, I needed to finish the edges with a smoothing plane.
Tip: name the parts as you cut them out.
Table of Contents
Step 2.
Start by making the cab and the tipper.
Showing the floor and the

front of the tipper.
Using rapid setting wood glue, I simply support the vertical with a piece of wood behind and a
carpenters square in the front.
Once the glue as set, I simply glue the sides.
This is where the toothpicks come in useful. Cut in half, they become miniature dowels to nail the
sides in place while the glue sets.
With the sides in place, I mark and drill a series of holes for the toothpicks about three along each
length.
For the drill bit, I use a finishing nail which is about the same size as the toothpick.
Simply inject a bit of glue into the hole and lightly tap the mini dowels. This has the advantage of
holding the pieces in place so that I can glue both sides at once.
Sometimes the dowels mushroom over when tapping in place, this can be trimmed off when the
glue sets.
Table of Contents
Step 3.
Making the cab.
Cut away view of the inside of the cab assembly.

Illustration showing a cut away view of the inside of the cab. The red block is the seat support fixed
in place to help with the construction of the seat.
Glue the fender supports in place, making sure you end up with a left and right hand side.
Showing the cab assembly.

The photo above shows the cab sub assembly. If you look very carefully, you may see the toothpick
dowels along the edges, these will be trimmed off once the glue has set.
Table of Contents
Step 4.
Making the rear axle support.
Rear axle support.

The rear axle support is an open ended box lined with plastic bearings.
The photo shows the two L-shapes with the blue plastic bearings in place.
Simply place the axle down in position and glue the two halves together.
Once the glue has set, trim to size.
Step 5.
Making the chassis.
Cut the chassis to size, mark and drill the holes for the hinge dowel and the lifting mechanism.
Shape the rear end round as shown in the plans.
Mark the position of the rear axle and cut the slot to suit the rear axle support.
Tip: hold the chassis parts together with double sided tape.
Table of Contents
Step 6.
Making the scissor action lifting mechanism.
Illustration showing the lifting mechanism in the resting position.

Cab and left hand side of the chassis not shown for clarity.
Table of Contents
Illustration showing the inner part of the lifting mechanism attached to the tipper tray. Cab, chassis
and outer part of lifting mechanism not shown for clarity.
Illustration showing the outer part of the lifting mechanism attached to the chassis.
Table of Contents
Inner lifting mechanism, tipper tray, axle support and left hand side of the chassis is not shown for
clarity.
I think it may be helpful to understand the workings of the lifting mechanism before you start
making it.
I have tried to explain the workings with illustrations.
This is where a drill press would come in handy because the smooth action of the lifting mechanism
depends very much on precision drilled holes.
Table of Contents
Step 7.
Test fit the component parts.
Test fit the component parts.

Clamping the chassis in place and test fit the tipper tray.
What I did was to drill two sets of two holes in the cab for wood screws to hold the chassis in place
to test and adjust the workings of the lifting mechanism.
Once you are happy that everything works, you can glue the cab in place, and once the glue has set,
replace the wood screws with dowel plugs.
Table of Contents
Step 8.
Fit the tipping tray and hinge.
Make the hinge blocks, and thread them through the chassis parts. Place the tipper tray such that
there is enough clearance from the back of the cab.
The idea here is to hold the hinge blocks in place and drill a set of pilot holes for the wood screws.
I find that using double sided tape to hold the hinge blocks in position works well.
Here I have used a bit of scrap wood across the hinge blocks to clamp them down. It becomes a
simple matter of turning it around and drilling the pilot holes from the other side.
Table of Contents
Step 9.
Fitting the lifting mechanism.
Fit the hinge block assembly to the chassis with the dowel pins.
This time, to drill the pilot holes, I have to go through the hinge block itself.
Now the tipper tray and the lifting mechanism are all in position.
Table of Contents
Step 10.
Fit the winch and the friction brake.
In the photo, the cab has been removed to show the friction brake on the winch.
It is made up of two pieces of wood secured to the chassis on one end alternative to the top and
bottom of the chassis and bound with elastic bands.
This setup provides just enough friction to stop the winch unravelling and the tipper tray falling
onto small fingers.
Showing the underside of the truck.
Table of Contents
Step 11.
Final touches is to fit the wheels and hubcaps.
Showing the hubcaps fixed in place.
Table of Contents
Making Large Diameter Wheels
A simple woodworking jig to make large diameter wooden toy wheels.
The way I normally make wheels for toys is to use a circle cutter – I am happy to do this for wheels
up to about 70mm in diameter. Anything bigger makes me feel uncomfortable.
This is how I make large wheels using a disc sander and a very simple but effective jig. When I say
large wheels, I mean the size of wheels that cannot be made using the fly cutter, which is another
method for making wooden toy wheels.
In the image above, the green represents the jig, very similar to a bench hook. The blue disc is the
wheel, and the red dot in the middle is the axle.
Showing the underside of the jig, with two dowel pins fixed in place. These pins rest on the edge of
the disc sander table.
Table of Contents
Once again the top of the jig, this time without the wheel to show the dowel pin. Measure the radius
from the face of the disc to drill the hole. I use the same jig with holes at different positions for
wheels of different sizes.
Note that the dowel is a press fit, not glued in place. To do this, I cut a slot in the dowel to make it
easier to insert and remove without being too loose.
Woodworking Tip: Note that it is good practice to cut the slot in the dowel along the grain and not
across it.
Making the wheel.

Start by marking out the size that I want using a pair of compasses. Sometimes I paste a paper
template onto the work-piece.
Drill the hole for the axle.
Using a scroll saw, a band saw or even a jigsaw, I cut out the disc as close to the line as possible
trying not to touch it.
Place the rough cut disc on the dowel, it should be able to rotate freely without too much slack.
Start the disc sander, and place the jig on the table with the underside dowel diagonally across from
the wheel touching the edge of the table.
This allows me to pivot the jig by applying gentle pressure against the sanding disc and rotating the
wheel at the same time. Too much pressure and you burn the wheel.
Slow and gentle is best until you have turned a complete circle, sliding the jig back and forth as you
would with any other work-piece.
Viola! You now have a perfectly round large diameter wooden wheel. Not only that, you can make
as many as you want and they will all be exactly the same size.
Table of Contents
Finishing
There are many ways to apply a finish to a wooden toy. If this toy truck is going to spend time
outdoors, you may want to seek the advice of your local paint store.
Conclusion
Table of Contents
Wooden Toy Truck Patterns Plans List
1. Wooden Toy Truck Patterns Sheet 1
2. Wooden Toy Truck Patterns Sheet 2
om
s.c
an
-pl
oy
e n-t
od
wo
om
s.c
an
-pl
oy
e n-t
od
wo
Building Guide Wooden Toy Truck Patterns
Step by step instructions to make a lever action toy tipper tuck.
Searching the Net for toy truck plans, I found this vintage plan for a lever action toy dump truck.
Had a bit of scrap wood lying around, decided to use that for this project.
The photo above shows a few embellishments, including the mudguards over the front wheels and
the headlights.
Started by cutting up the paper plan to trace a rough outline of the profile. Maybe this was not such
a good idea, should have used carbon paper instead.
If you don't have carbon tracing paper, a neat trick is to rub a soft pencil on the back of the plan,
then trace the outline directly onto the workpiece.
Mark the position of the wheels and the lever arm, as well as the center of the radius that forms the
cab.
To hold the two sides for cutting and trimming, I glued them together with a sheet of paper in
between. This is a trick our wood-turning cousins use quite often.
Using something called sticky dots is also a good idea, or double sided sticky tape of the type used
in photography.
Table of Contents
Tools
This toy can be made with common tools. Personal safety is always the first consideration when
dealing with such small pieces of timber.
Below is a list of some of the tools that I used to complete the project. Clicking on the link will take
you to eBay where you can do research on what is available and compare prices.
• Power drill.
• Jigsaw or bandsaw or scroll saw.
• Tenon saw, also known as a back saw.
• Combination square.
• Woodworking quick grip clamps.
• Hacksaw to cut the wooden dowels
• Wood file to round over all the edges.
• Sanding block with 120 and 80 grit sandpaper.
• 22mm [7/8”] dia. Spade bit or Forstner bit.
• A selection of drill bits.
Making Wooden Toy Wheels.

For this toy dump truck, I made my own wheels, or you can used store bought wheels up to 60mm
in diameter.

A picture is worth a thousand words, but it sure does use up a lot of ink. In order to save the planet,
and a bit of money, I decided to include each illustration at the end of the document on a separate
page. That way you can use the link to have a look at the illustration to make sense of the
instructions and choose to print it or not.
It's always a good idea to read through the instructions and study the plans first. These are
guidelines only, your level of experience will no doubt supersede these suggestions.
The parts are assembled in a manner that should allow time for the glue to set between each step.
Having said that, I have also used hot melt glue for certain steps because it is so much faster.
Table of Contents
Step 1
Click on the link to view the illustration for Step 1.
In this step, I cut out the shape of the body and used this paper template to mark out two shapes as
shown in the cutting diagram.
Using double sided sticky tape or removable sticky dots to hold the two work-pieces together and
the paper template on top of that, I carefully cut out the body shape with a jigsaw. It is a good idea
to mark the position of all the wheels and the hinge point of the lever arm before removing the
paper template.
Drill the holes for the wheels, but not the lever arm at this stage.
Smooth the edges cut by the jigsaw, and you are ready for the next step.
Step 2
Glue the top of the bonnet (part C) to the right hand side of the truck body (Part A1), making sure it
is perpendicular.
Because I did not want to wait too long for the glue to set, I used hot melt glue as an experiment,
and I was quite amazed at the strength of the joint. More about hot melt glue here.
Step 3
Trim Part B to fit then glue in place. Glue Part D in place.
Step 4
Glue the left hand side (Part A2) in place, and the roof (Part F.)
Step 5
Make Part E, the hinge for the tipper tray. Hold it in place and mark the size to cut, allowing a
millimeter or so for clearance.
Step 6
The floor of the tipper tray held in place and two pilot holes drilled into part E for a pair of
woodscrews. Test the movement of the tipper and trim as required.
Table of Contents
Step 7
This is where we determine the position of Part G, which essentially also limits how far the tipper
tray moves. With Part G in place, drill pilot holes on both sides. Remove the tipper tray and glue
Part G in place using wood screws as clamps. Once the glue has set, you can trim it to size. You
may also want to remove the screws and replace them with dowels.
Step 8
Making the tipper tray. Glue the two sides in place, and the front.
When the glue has set, glue the tipper tray assembly to the hinge.
The lever arm (shown red in the photo) is held in place with a wood screw. Mark the position of the
lever arm on the underside of the tipper tray.
Step 9
Drill a shallow hole in this position to enable the lever arm to rest in this position.
Step 10
All of the component parts are ready, all that remains is the final assembly, sanding the edges round
and painting to colours of your choice.
Finishing
effect.
Conclusion
About hot melt glue

The advantage of hot melt glue is the speed at which it sets, which is in a way also a disadvantage,
because there is no room for error. You have to match up the two pieces really quickly before the
glue cools and a proper bond is not formed.
Table of Contents
Step 1
Step 1 Template attached to work-piece

Back to Step 1 Text
Step 2
Step 2
Back to Step 2 text
Table of Contents
Step 3
Step 3
Back to Step 3 text
Step 4
Step 4
Back to Step 4 text
Table of Contents
Step 5
Step 5
Back to Step 5 text
Step 6
Step 6
Back to Step 6 text
Table of Contents
Step 7
Step 7
Back to Step 7 text
Step 8
Step 8
Back to Step 8 text
Table of Contents
Step 9
Step 9
Back to Step 9 text
Step 10
Step 10
Back to Step 10 text
Table of Contents
Free Toy Dump Truck Plans List
1. Body Parts Sheet 1
2. Tipper Parts Sheet 2
3. Cutting Diagram Sheet 3
Table of Contents
om
Tipper
.c
Cab
a ns
y -pl
-to
en
od
Chassis
wo
Wheel Wheel
om
s.c
an
-pl
oy
e n-t
od
wo
om
s.c
an
-pl
oy
e n-t
od
wo
om
s.c
an
-pl
oy
e n-t
od
wo
Building Guide Free Toy Dump Truck Plans
Step by step instructions to make a mid size toy tipper tuck.
This simple toy is made up of 19mm (3/4”) pine. The tipper, shown blue, is made from anything
you can find, from 6mm to 9mm plywood, MDF or 12mm thick pine.
Wooden Toy Wheels

The wheels shown red, are 50mm in diameter are also 19mm pine. Click here for instructions to
make your own wooden toy wheels.
Table of Contents
Tools
This toy can be made with a limited number of power tools. Personal safety is always the first
consideration when dealing with such small pieces of timber.
Below is a list of some of the tools that I used to complete the project.
• Power drill.
• Jigsaw or bandsaw.
• Woodworking clamps.
• Hacksaw to cut the wooden dowels.Wood file to round over all the edges.
• A selection of drill bits.

It's always a good idea to study the plans first. These are guidelines only, your level of experience
will no doubt supersede these suggestions.
The parts are assembled in a manner that should allow time for the glue to set between each step.
These guidelines may seem to be rather complicated, and the reason is that it would probably be
easier to explain in person, or by video. The real complication is in trying to convey the message,
rather than the procedure itself.
Step 1
Cut out the parts that make up the tipper, shown as Part D Assembly in the drawings. This part can
be made from any material you may have available, from 6mm MDF or plywood to 12mm pine
boards.
The floor and front of the tipper is glued up first, to form an L-shape as shown in the diagram
below. Put it to one side to allow the glue to set.
Table of Contents
Step 2
While the glue is setting, cut out the parts from 19mm (3/4”) stock as shown in the cutting diagram
below.
Step 3
Laminate the parts that make up the cab and the hinge. Set them to one side to set.
Step 4
Clamping the two pieces that make up the chassis together and drill the 6mm diam holes as shown
in the drawings. Use a drill press or a drill guide to ensure the holes are perpendicular.
Step 5
Making a template for the hinge pin. The tipper rotates around the rear end of the chassis, and the
hinge block fits snugly against the rear axle. We want a fair amount of clearance here, so accuracy
in make and fitting this part is quite important.
Using a piece of card as shown in the photo, mark out the holes using a centre punch or a thin
pencil.
Table of Contents
Step 6
Using a compass, mark out a circle that will give clearance to the axle dowel.
Table of Contents
Step 7
Photo with the green line showing the outline of the hinge pin, and the red line showing the outline
of the chassis.
Note how the hinge pin protrudes above the chassis. This is to allow the tipper enough room to sit
flush on the chassis.
Step 8
Mark the holes for the hinge pin using a center punch.
Again, note how the hinge pin sits proud of the chassis.
Table of Contents
Step 9
Drill the 6mm diam. Hole (shown green) for the hinge pin, and a larger 8mm diam. hole shown red
in the photo below.
Please note the position of this hole will determine the clearance of the rear axle when the tipper is
resting along the chassis.
The round shape will allow the tipper to rotate, so is is important to get this just right.
Cut out the hinge pin using the paper template made earlier.
Table of Contents
Step 10
Back to the tipper, if the glue has set enough to be handled.
To complete the tipper part, the two sides are fixed in place as shown in the diagram below. Note
position shaded allows for a shadow line along these edges.
Step 11
Finish the cab by sanding the end grain surfaces smooth. Drill the hole to represent the windows
with a 22mm spade bit or Forstner bit.
Cut the two axle dowels to length, plus a fraction extra for a pair of plastic washers made from a
plastic milk carton.
Mark the position of the chassis shown red in the drawing.
Glue the chassis parts to this line and using the axle dowels to hold the parts in position.
Table of Contents
Step 12
The diagram below shows the hinge pin in position. Sand the hinge pin to make it slightly thinner
so that it will rotate freely. Make sure the hinge clears the rear axle.
Note the red line in the diagram showing the hinge pin sitting just above the chassis. This is to allow
clearance for the tipper to rest along the back of the chassis.
Table of Contents
Step 13
Time to attach the tipper to the hinge. With the hinge in position, place the tipper along the chassis
with about 1mm clearance from the back of the cab.
Drill two holes to fit two screws as shown in the diagram below.
It is good practice in woodworking and carpentry to stagger the screws so that they do not follow
the same grain. Do this in order to minimize the risk of splitting the wood.
These screws are used to clamp the tipper in position until the glue sets. You may prefer to remove
the screws and replace them with a pair of dowels before finishing.
Table of Contents
Test the action of the tipper and adjust accordingly before gluing the tipper in place.
Step 14
All that remains is to drill out the holes in the chassis for the axles with a 6.5 mm drill bit to allow
the wheels to spin freely. Apply a dab of glue on each end of the axle to hold the wheels in place.
Round over all the edges with a wood file, give everything a final sanding with a finer grade of
sandpaper, and the toy is ready for finishing.
Making Wooden Toy Wheels.

For this toy dump truck, I made my own wheels, or you can used store bought wheels up to 50mm
in diameter.
Finishing
effect.
Conclusion
Table of Contents
Building Guide Wooden Truck Plans List
1. Patterns Sheet 1
2. Patterns Sheet 2
3. Cutting List
Table of Contents
om
s.c
an
-pl
oy
e n-t
od
wo
om
s.c
an
-pl
oy
e n-t
od
wo
om
s.c
an
-pl
oy
e n-t
od
wo
Building Guide Wooden Truck
Step by step instructions to make a mini toy tipper tuck.
Measures about100mm wide by 230mm long and 115mm high.
This toy dump truck is made up of two 19mm thick pieces with one 12mm piece in the middle. In
the diagram below, the pieces shown green are 19mm or ¾ inch thick and the yellow represents
12mm or ½ inch thick pieces. The wheels are shown red.
Tools
This toy can be made with a limited number of power tools. Safety is always the first consideration
when dealing with such small pieces of timber.
Below is a list of some of the tools that I used to complete the project.
• Power drill corded or battery powered.
• Bandsaw.
• Woodworking clamps.
• Hacksaw to cut the wooden dowels
• Wood file to round over all the edges.
Table of Contents
• 6mm and 6.5mm drill bits.
Step 1
It's always a good idea to study the plans first. These are guidelines only, your level of experience
will no doubt supersede these suggestions.
Cut out the body parts and glue them together. Put it to one side to allow the glue to set. These parts
may be slightly oversize to allow for truing up after the glue has set. The holes for the axles and
tipper hinge are also drilled afterwards in step 4.
The diagram below shows the dowel (shown red) being used to keep the parts aligned under
clamping pressure.
Step 2
Cut out the parts that make up the tipper. Note the floor and front should be about 2mm wider than
the width of the body, as noted on the cutting diagram.
The floor and front of the tipper is made up first, to form an L-shape as shown in the diagram.
Table of Contents
Step 3
The holes for the hinge are drilled for a snug fit. When the glue has set, glue each side of the tipper
as shown below.
A note about this step that may not be obvious: the floor of the tipper is stopped short to allow for
180º rotation.
Step 4
Once the glue has set, it's time to finish off the truck body, if you have laminated it.
Drill the holes that represent the windows of the truck with a spade bit or a forstner bit. Round over
all the edges. For the professional look, use a 3mm (1/8”) roundover bit in a router mounted in a
suitable router table.
Place the tipper assembly into position on the truck body and test the movement, then mark the hole
Table of Contents
for the hinge point. As mentioned before, the floor of the tipper assembly stops short to allow for a
180º rotation.
Drill the holes for the axles and the hinge point with a drill bit that is one size larger for a relaxed
fit, a term I believe is used in the description of certain types of garment.
Fit the wheels, and the tipper assembly with a touch of glue to hold the dowels in place, and you're
good to go.
The toy may be painted with food coloring or left natural as shown in the photographs on the first
page.
Conclusion
I certainly hope you have enjoyed making this project.
Use this contact me form if you would like to submit your project to the photo gallery.
Table of Contents
Wooden Toy Truck Plans List
1. Mini Truck Full Size Pattern Type 1
2. Mini Truck Full Size Pattern Type 2
Table of Contents
om
s.c
lan
y-p
-to
en
od
wo
Small Toy Truck
m
.co
a ns
-pl
oy
e n-t
od
wo
Small Toy Truck
Wooden Toy Road Grader Plans List
1. Isometric View
2. Exploded View
3. Side View
4. Parts Sheet 1
5. Parts Sheet 2
Large Road Grader

1. Isometric View
2. Exploded View
3. Side View
4. Parts
Table of Contents
om
s.c
an
-pl
oy
e n-t
od
wo
om
s.c
an
-pl
oy
e n-t
od
wo
om
s.c
an
-pl
oy
e n-t
od
wo
om
s.c
an
-pl
oy
e n-t
od
wo
om
s.c
an
-pl
oy
e n-t
od
wo
Building Guide Wooden Toy Road Grader
This toy grader is a fun project for all ages to make. It can be made with hand tools if you are going
to purchase a set of wooden wheels.
List of materials.
This toy can be made from leftover bits in your scrap box.
This is what I used to make this one.
19 x 500 x 140 clear pine for the wheels and body
9 x 60 x 200 skirting board for the blade.
6mm dowel for the axles.
Tools you may need.

I used a bandsaw, but only because I have one. Most of the cutting can be be done with a hand saw.
Anybody who has experience with a table saw will know that the parts are too small to use one
safely.
I also have a 12” disc sander, and I find this indispensable for trimming end grain. Of course, a
block of sandpaper or a wood file could also be used.
If you are going to make your own wheels, a drill press is an essential item when using a circle
cutter.
Most if not all hobby woodworkers and handymen (or handywomen) will have a selection of tools
to complete this simple project.
Table of Contents
1. The first step is to read through the instructions and study the plans and photos.
2. Using a soft pencil and a ruler, mark out the component parts as shown in the drawing.
3. Cut out the parts using an electric jigsaw, a tenon saw or a scroll saw.
4. Parts A to D are trimmed back to their proper sizes. A twelve inch disc sander is useful for trimming
small pieces.
5. Glue the pieces that make up part F and put to one side to set.
6. Clamp parts B together and drill the holes for the axles. At this stage, the holes are drilled for a snug
fit. Do this in order to make sure things stay lined up when the parts are glued and clamped together.
7. Dry clamp parts A and B together, keeping the

two parts B aligned with the axle dowels. Mark
the pieces so that it will be re-assembled in the
correct order. It is shown in red in the photo only
to highlight the idea, so don't actually mark it in
red. Apply the glue and put it to one side to set.
It is important that the axle dowels are left in

place until the glue sets to minimise creep under
clamping pressure. Once the glue has set, re-drill
the holes to allow the axles to spin freely.
Step 7
8. The blade of the grader, part C, is made from a

piece of skirting board cut to a width of 30mm. It
may also be made from a piece of timber that is
9mm thick, just chamfer one edge to the profile
shown in the drawing.
Table of Contents
9. Cut and trim part D to size, and drill the axle hole
using a drill press or drill guide. Use the 6.5mm
drill bit to allow the axle to spin freely.
10. Drill the holes for the roof of the cab by placing it
on the body as shown in the photo.
Step 10
11. The photo shows how to fix the dowels on place

by measuring the height the dowels are set so
that they sit slightly above the roof. This is an
idea borrowed from the Craftsman furniture
movement.
Step 11
12. Trim part F to size and fix in place.

13. Final assembly.
Glue all the parts together, apply the wood screw to the front wheel assembly, allowing it to swivel.
Round off the sharp edges and you are ready to put the grader to some serious earth moving work.
Table of Contents
Finishing
effect.
Conclusion
Table of Contents
Toy Steam Roller Plans List
1. Mk1 Isometric View
2. Mk1 Exploded View
3. Mk1 Side View
4. Mk1 Parts
5. Mk2 Isometric View
6. Mk2 Exploded View
7. Mk2 PartsMk2
om
s.c
p lan
y-
-to
en
od
wo
Isometric View Toy Steam Roller Mk1
om
s.c
p lan
y-
-to
en
od
wo
Exploded View Toy Steam Roller Mk1
om
s.c
p lan
y-
-to
en
od
wo
om
s.c
p lan
y-
-to
en
od
wo
om
s.c
p lan
y-
-to
en
od
wo
om
s.c
an
-pl
oy
e n-t
od
wo
om
s .c
an
-pl
oy
e n-t
od
wo
Building Guide Toy Steam Roller
Introduction
An essential part of road construction, the steam roller gets its name from the original machine that
was actually powered by steam. The modern version looks quite different, and indeed it has a
different name, but it has nothing of the romance of steam, at least as far as making toys is
concerned.
Somehow the very shape of the steam roller describes it's function: this is a machine that means
business, and it will serve you best that you keep out of the way.
Complementing the road grader, this toy steam roller is very simple to make.
List of materials.
This toy can be made from leftover bits in your scrap box.
Tools you may need.

I used a bandsaw, but only because I have one. Most of the cutting can be be done with a hand saw.
Anybody who has experience with a table saw will know that the parts are too small to use one
safely.
I also have a 12” disc sander, and I find this indispensable for trimming end grain. Of course, a
block of sandpaper or a wood file could also be used.
If you are going to make your own wheels, a drill press is an essential item when using a circle
cutter.
Table of Contents
Most if not all hobby woodworkers and handymen (or handywomen) will have a selection of tools
to complete this simple project.
Table of Contents
Preparation
The first step is to read through the instructions and study the plans and photos.
Using a soft pencil and a ruler, mark out the component parts as shown in the drawing.
Cut out the parts using an electric jigsaw, a tenon saw or a scroll saw.
Step 1
Step 1
Mark and drill the holes for the axles in pairs. Glue the two sides using the dowel axle to keep the
parts aligned.
Step 2
While the glue is setting, make the wheels.
Step 3
Step 3
Table of Contents
Mark the holes for the roof, place the roof in position and drill the holes.
Step 4
Step 4
Glue one side arm in first, using one of the rear wheels to ensure there is enough clearance.
Step 5
Step 5
Glue the other side arm, using the axle to keep the alignment. The wheels are included to ensure
clearance.
Table of Contents
Step 6
Step 6
The roof is fixed in place, and the toy is ready to paint in colours of your choice.
Finishing
effect.
Conclusion
Table of Contents
Wooden Toy Airplane Plans List
1. Parts Sheet 1
2. Parts Sheet 2
3. Parts Sheet 3
4. Parts Sheet 4
5. Parts Sheet 5
Top View
Side View
Full Size Fusealge Profile Side View
Toy Biplane Plan Nose
Sheet 4 of 4
Toy Biplane Plan wood-toy-plans.com Sheet 1 of 4
Landing Gear
Make 2 Tailplane
Full Size Rudder Outline Full Size Tailplane Outline
Alternate
Propellor
Top Wing
Scale 1:2
Bottom Wing
Scale 1:2
Buiding Guide Wooden Toy Airplane
What tools do I need?

This toy can easily be made with the kind of tools the average home handyman already has:
1. Power drill corded or battery powered.
2. Drill bits – 8.5mm, 8mm, 4mm and 2.5mm.
3. A jigsaw or a bandsaw or even a coping saw.
4. A few woodworking clamps – can you ever have too many?
5. A wood file and some sandpaper, 80 grit and 100 grit.
6. A sharp knife for carving the propeller.
7. A pair of compasses or something with a round shape for drawing the wing tips.
8. The usual toolkit also includes things like a hammer and screwdriver.
Table of Contents
Optional tools.
This is a list of tools that may be considered to be optional. They are not essential for completing
the project, but they do make certain tasks much easier which adds to the enjoyment of
woodworking.
1. Linisher/sander or a 12” disc sander.
2. Drum sanders of various diameters.
3. Router with 6mm and 4mm round over bits.
4. Drill press or at least a drill guide.
Of course, you will need a ruler and a pencil, and personally I find a combination square very useful
for marking out and measuring.
You can make your own wooden wheels or buy them ready made.
How much wood do I need?

There is not a lot of wood in this toy, and you probably have a few pieces left over from another
project. This is what you will need:
1. 19mm thick pine 50mm wide x 275mm long for the fuselage and nose, or add an extra
100mm for a total of 375mm long if you are going to make your own wheels.
2. 12mm thick pine or meranti 90mm wide x 850mm long for the wings, tailplande and
rudder.
3. 8mm dowel 600mm long for the wing struts and the axle.
4. Four 8g woodscrews 30mm long and one 8g woodscrew 50mm long.
Step by step instructions for making the wooden toy airplane.

You may want to make more than one toy airplane, so it would be a good idea to make templates of
the fuselage, tailplane and rudder.
1. Trace the outline of the fuselage and the nose onto a piece of 19mm (3/4 ") pine and cut out
the shapes using a jigsaw or bandsaw.
2. Position the nose on the fuselage and drill a 2.5mm pilot hole for the propellor in the centre
of the nose.
3. The next step is to glue the nose to the fuselage using the 30mm long woodscrew. Set it to
one side for the glue to set.
4. Trace the outline of the rudder and tailplane onto a piece of 12mm pine or meranti, and cut
out the shapes using a jigsaw or bandsaw.
5. Using a scrap piece the same thickness as the rudder, mark out a notch on the tailplane.
6. Use the fuselage to measure the depth of the notch for the rudder. Cut out the notch carefully
for a snug fit.
Table of Contents
7. Mark out the wings to the dimensions shown on the plan. Using the combination square,
mark out the position of the struts on the top wing only. Using a pair of compasses as shown
in the photo, I made my wingtips round, but you can make them any shape you want to. I
used a 12” disc sander to clean up the edges, but it can be done with a wood file instead.
8. There is a trick to drilling the holes for the wing struts. On a real biplane, the top wing sits
slightly forward relative to the bottom wing. It is import that the wing struts line up, so be
sure to clamp the two wings together and drill the holes for the 8mm dowels accurately with
a drill press. Mark both wings “left” and “right” so that when it comes to final assembly
everything lines up the way it should. Do not drill the hole in the centre of the top wing yet,
leave this until step 16.
9. Make a pair of landing gear struts. Clamp them together and drill a hole for the axle with the
8.5mm drill bit. This is where the drill press is useful.
10. Round off the edges of the wings and the tailplane parts, and the landing gear struts except
the area where they are glued to the wings. Again, a router is useful for this step, but you
may not be comfortable with such small pieces. Use a wood file and sandpaper instead. Note
that if you are going to be using a router, I found the 6mm roundover bit removed too much
material, so I used a 4mm round over bit instead.
Table of Contents
11. Glue the rudder to the tailplane as shown in the photo, making sure that everything is
perpendicular.
12. Mark out the position of the landing gear struts and attach them to the wings using the 8x30
woodscrews. Note how the axle keeps the struts aligned. Once the glue has set, you may
want to remove the screws and plug the holes with 8mm dowel.
Table of Contents
13. By now, the glue should have set on the fuselage, so remove the woodscrew and round off
all the edges except for where the bottom wing and the tailplane is seated. Use a router or a
wood file and 80 grit sandpaper.
14. Glue the bottom wing to the fuselage, making sure everything is perpendicular. Leave it to
set.
15. Make the propellor from a piece of 19mm pine, 100mm by 30mm. It is easier to drill the
4.5mm hole for the wood screw before carving it.
Table of Contents
16. Glue the tailplane assembly to the fuselage, again ensuring that everything is perpendicular.
It is easier to use a woodscrew to clamp the tailplane assembly in place. Once the glue has
set, the woodscrew my be replaced with a dowel to form a tailskid.
17. Cut 4 pieces of dowel 90mm long for the wing struts.
18. The time has come, (the walrus said) to drill the hole in the top wing. Using the dowel struts,
line up the top wing left and right as marked earlier, and carefully drill the hole for the 8mm
dowel through the top wing into the fuselage. Now the top wing may be glued in place.
Table of Contents
19. All that remains is to attach the propeller and the wheels and you are ready to zoom around
the room!
Finishing
effect.
Conclusion
Table of Contents

Toys For Boys PDF

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

You might also like

Toys For Boys PDF

Uploaded by

Document Information

Original Title

Copyright

Available Formats

Share this document

Share or Embed Document

Sharing Options

Did you find this document useful?

Is this content inappropriate?

Copyright:

Available Formats

Toys For Boys PDF

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

Toys For Boys

Toy Car Garage

Earth Moving Construction Toys

Toys for Boys Title Page

Bonus Wooden Toy Plans

Step By Step Instructions

Step by step instructions.

Copyright 2020 wooden-toy-plans.com Batmobile toy car.odt

For the body, you can use 2 pieces 19mm thick

This will make the the body 50mm wide.

The wheels are 19mm thick and 50mm diameter.

Fenders are 12mm thick

No point in wasting precious wood, even if it is only recycled.

Copyright 2020 wooden-toy-plans.com

Copyright 2020 wooden-toy-plans.com

Using a hole saw to cut out the wheel arches.

Copyright 2020 wooden-toy-plans.com

Click on the link Copy and paste into your browser

Visit the gallery page to see what others have made.

Thank you for respecting my copyright.

Step by Step instructions

Step by Step Instructions.

Parts B, C and D are trimmed to size and sanded smooth.

Cutting out the bonnet shape with a band saw.

Showing the pair completed mudguard assemblies.

Showing the chassis being fixed to the bodywork.

Here is a wooden toy motorcycle that is easy to make.

Step By Step Instructions

Here is an easy scroll saw project that is fun to make.

Making the wheels

The batwing handlebars cut out and ready to be painted.

Making Wooden Toy Wheels

Photo 1: Mark the position for the large wheel.

Photo 2: Mark the wheel clearance.

Photo 4: Rough cut.

Photo 6: A selection of files.

Photo 6: Making the cab

Photo 7: Cutting the windows

Photo 9: Pre-paint the cab assembly

Photo 12: Making the smokestack

Copyright 2020 wooden-toy-plans.com switching-engine.odt

Copyright 2020 wooden-toy-plans.com Page 3

Copyright 2020 wooden-toy-plans.com Page 4

Copyright 2020 wooden-toy-plans.com Page 5

Copyright 2020 wooden-toy-plans.com Page 6

Copyright 2020 wooden-toy-plans.com Page 7

Copyright 2020 wooden-toy-plans.com Page 8

Copyright 2020 wooden-toy-plans.com Page 9

Copyright 2020 wooden-toy-plans.com Page 10

Illustration 1: Second prototype Toy Tipper Truck

Showing the floor and the

Cut away view of the inside of the cab assembly.

Showing the cab assembly.

Rear axle support.

Illustration showing the lifting mechanism in the resting position.

Test fit the component parts.

Showing the underside of the truck.

Showing the hubcaps fixed in place.