APPAREL INTERNSHIP

DAY 1

Overall flow chart

COSTING

O.B

SAMPLE SKETCH

ORDER BOOKING

QTY. FIX

CAPACITY PLANNING

I.E MEETING
(Risk analysis meeting, style discussion, problems
identification and solution proposals)

3 Pc. PRODUCTION

SEPERATE SHRINKAGE TESTING

SIZE SET DIRECT

BULK CUTTING

LINE LOAD

IE APPROVAL/CHANGES

PRODUCTION STARTS

DAY 2

Fabric storage (Basement)

 The merchant makes the decision of the type of fabric or quantity etc. on the basis of the
purchase order
 Then the FOB is placed min of 40 meter to 100 meter out of which 1 to 1.5 meter is sent to
merchant
 If the merchant approves of the fabric the bulk is ordered
 If the fabric is to be imported the order is to be placed by the merchant only and if it is
to be ordered domestically the fabric department take cares of it
 Lotting of the fabric:
 The matching of the fabric of different role is then done
 The first roll of the lot is to be named ‘lot 1’ then we match the second roll with the first
one and if the shade is matching then we also name it ‘lot 1’ only but the style no
changes for every roll and the same goes on.
 If the next roll is different than the other one in the process, we name that roll ‘lot 2’
and then the next roll if matches with the first one it is to be named lot 1 or with the
second one it is to be named lot 2 and if it not matches with any one of them another
lot is made and the same process goes on
 In case of a big order sometimes 30-40 lots are created then the family of them is to be
made
 We look for the shades which are closer to each other and make it a family so in the
case as mentioned above 6-7 families is to be made and their shade cards/lot cards are
made.
 Match the shade cards with the FOB
 The report is sent to the merchant and while the approval is awaiting side by side the fabric
inspection and fabric quality testing is done internally as per the requirement set by buyer and
the report is generated on which it is decided if the cutting is to be done of that fabric or not.
 Inspection report is generated by 4-point system (20 points per sq. meter) and the color coded
stickering is done.
GREEN – OK, (up to 20 points)
BLUE – NCP (not confirmed points), (20-40 points)
YELLOW – Re-processing (above 40)
RED – Reject (above 40) Based on the type of defects
 Based on the color coding the rolls are issued for spreading and cutting
 Mostly the inspection is done manually and if the defect is too hard to identify then it is put on
the machine.
 The relaxation time of the fabric is 24-48 hrs. or as per mentioned in the buyer manual (the
industry deals more in viscose/twisted/stretchable fabric than of knits)
 Usually conditioning of the fabric is avoided but for some brands like Tommy Hilfiger, there is a
special room for conditioning of the fabric at certain room temperature and humidity.
 Two types of sampling are done:
FSS & Salesman sampling:
For 100-150 pc garments, fabric is generated and the production of same is done and
sent to the stores to get an idea of the demand and then based on that the quantity of
the order is placed.
Normal sampling:
Sent to merchant if approved the order is placed.
Incident

In washing one of the fabric piece bled color and the patches had appeared on the cloth to fix it the
Fixer wash is done to the rest of the fabric.

DAY 3

TESTING DEPARTMENT

DAY 4 & 5

SPREADING & CUTTING DEPARTMENT (BASEMENT)

ROOM FLOW CHART:

Receiving planning for cutting

Raising demand for fabrics as per approved average

Receiving fabric from fabric store

Layering as per marker length

Cut according to the plan marker

Stickering

Fusing

Relaying

Band knife cutting Checking

Re-stickering OK Not OK

Part change

Issue to sewing floor on receiving demand

Detailed flow chart:

Receiving planning for cutting

Receiving style sample and file

Approval of pattern and marker from pattern master

Explain the team about the comments of PPM meeting and the style

Demand the fabric according to the average

Receive the fabric along with the lot folder from the fabric store

Initial/Pilot cutting (100-300 pieces)

Analysis of pilot
Incorrect
Q.R.T report
Changes in the pattern and
process as per the report

Correct
Check it by
creating a piece Incorrect

Approval of bulk cutting correct

Create a lay slip and give it to the layman

Mark the length and breadth on the brown paper

Lay the first ply and tape it with the brown paper

Check the length and breadth of the first ply

Complete the spreading of lay according to the Lay slip

Cut the lay by spreading the allocated marker on it

Bundle the cut pieces

Sticker the cut pieces

Separate the parts which has to be fused

Set the fusing machine at the given instructions by the lab

Fuse the parts

Relay the fused parts

Cut the relayed parts with the band knife

Re-sticker the cut parts

Store all the cut parts together

Inspect the cut

parts correct

Incorrect
 Change the wrong parts

Create the barcode for the cutting

Keep the barcode along with the cut parts

Store the cut parts according to the layer and style

Send the parts for production when demanded

Description:

For the detailed study of the flow of the department we followed one style from the beginning.

Style no.: 30272

Type: Casual Striped Shirt

Buyer: Tommy Hilfiger

Lay length: 4253mm ~4.3 meter

Start time: 10:35 AM

Perforated paper length: 427cm

Marker width: 148cm

Spreading type: Manual

Total no of plies: 40 (26 plies in one lot)

Lay height: 5/8”

Finish time: 11:05 AM

New lay: 11:10 AM

Lights above the spreading table at the height of 1.2 meter from the table

Manual spreading:

Before laying the fabric lay a brown perforated paper and tape it with the table.

Spread the fabric on top of the paper and tape the first ply with the paper and secure it

A supervisor will come and measure the length and width of the ply

After his approval the workers will continue the spreading

For spreading one person makes a slit on the fabric and tear it with the hands to reduce bowing

Then two people one at each side of the table will hold the fabric and spread it on top of the first ply by
walking and then align it and put the weight on top of it so that the fabric doesn’t move

To find the average spreading cycle we took measurements at different time as the fatigue level rises by
the end of the day:

1st cycle (in sec) 2nd cycle (in sec) 3rd cycle (in sec) Average (in sec)
Morning 23 20 30 24.33
Afternoon 24 23 27 24.66
Evening 25 23 28 25.33
Average of the day 25.11

When the than ends in the middle of the spreading a ticket/sticker is attached there and then the new
than is laid on top of it

After spreading the lay workers move the table towards the cutting table to export the lay

Cutting:

Manual cutting & Laser cutting

Laser cutting:

The lay is exported to the Gerber laser cutting machine

A plastic sheet is laid on top of the marker to create vacuum

Digital marker is exported to the machine and the worker open the file of which the lay is to be cut and
set up the machine

The machine starts cutting the lay

The file is transferred to the machine via Flash drive so that if there is some error happens while cutting
the worker would pull off the drive and the cutting will stop as the machine would show the error and
the rest of the fabric would be saved as the machine does not stop after starting

The parts are then bundled and sent to the ticketing department.

Manual cutting:

It is mostly done for the stripes and schiffli embroidered fabric.

The marker is spread on top of the lay and the parts are separated in blocks of fabric and bundled
Ticketing:

After bundling all the parts are temporarily stored on a transporting shelf as WIP

When its turn comes a sticker/ ticket is placed on all the pieces of the bundles

Then the part which has to be fused is sent to the fusing area again on a transportable shelf as WIP

And the rest of the bundles are sent for the single piece manual cutting as mitering is required for
stripes

Fusing:

The buyer sends a report of fusing type suitable for the fabric and also nominates the brand

The fusing roll is then ordered and when it arrives it is inspected

According to the report manual the machine is set on that particular temperature

The roll is cut according to the width required and then fed into the machine

The fusing is spread out onto the machine and as it continues to move forward the fabric pieces are
placed on top of it so that when the part goes through the machine it is to be fused with the heat

On the other side of the machine two more workers are there for the relaying

The parts which are to be cut again is sent for the band knife cutting and the rest is sent to ticketing

Band knife cutting:

After relaying, the parts which have to be cut again like cuffs, collars etc. are sent to the band knife
cutting area where the parts are being cut, bundled and then sent to ticketing again

Re-ticketing:

After fusing and band knife cutting the parts are sent for ticketing again

Parts checking:

After the re-ticketing the parts are sent for parts checking along with the rest of the parts which were
temporarily stored

If some parts are incorrect then a new lay is laid for those parts and the fabric block is cut manually with
a straight knife, if fusing required then fusing, ticketing, then with the help of the pattern it is to be cut
on the band knife, ticketing, and then sent for the parts checking

If all the parts are correct then it is bundled and stored in the temporary storage area, ready to deliver
on the production floor when demanded.
SEWING DEPARTMENT
Production flow chart:

Get the planning report from the planning department

Get the sealer from the merchandising department

Produce three pieces of a style

Machine and attachment approval according to the line plan

Organize PPM

Get the PPM notes and comments

Create counter sample

Receive initial/pilot cutting

Set the line according to the OB of the style

Produce 100-300 pieces for initial/pilot

Analysis of
initial/pilot & Wrong
QRT Report

Change the pattern

& process according
to the report
Correct

Bulk cutting
Check by
Receive the cutting according to the planning creating Wrong
a piece

Stitch according to the PPM/Comments/Sealer

End Correct
checking Wrong
table

Correct

Auditing of production

Send the audited pieces to finishing department

Production floor flow chart:

Receive the production planning

Receive the style and sample file from the merchant

Production of three piece and their analysis

Internal pre-production meeting

Allot the machines according to the layout

Receive the initial cutting

Line balancing according to the quality parameters

Initial piece production& QRT Analysis

Receive the bulk cutting

Bulk stitching

End table checking

Wrong Correct

Audit

Correct Wrong

Send to the finishing department

FINISHING DEPARTMENT
Process flow chart:

Receive the piece after auditing

Send it for button attachment and button hole making

Make a template for marking

Attach the button in the mock piece

Wrong Check the

mock
 Correct

Attach the button in all the pieces

Audit the
Wrong buttoned
pieces

Correct

Send the pieces to washing/dry cleaning

Dry the pieces according to the manual instructions

Thread trimming

Full press of the pieces

Wrong
Initial
checking
Make an alter

Correct

Wrong
Measurement
checking
Make an alter

Correct

Wrong
Final
checking
Wrong

Correct

Auditing Wrong
 Correct

Send for packaging

WASHING
When the fabric is received for washing first it is checked for spotting

The fabric arrives in bundles of 50-100 pieces which takes almost half an hour to check

The recipe of the washing is provided according to the buyer’s requirement and the recipe changes
according to the style

The garments are loaded in the washing machine (150 pc.) and are being washed for 5 minutes

Then 2-3 minutes in Hydro washing (150 pc.)

Then they are tumble dried for 25-30 minutes and then the folded garments are sent back to the
finishing department

If the garment is to be dry cleaned the process time is 45 minutes and in one batch 150 pieces of
garments can be dry cleaned

One of the styles which was going on the sewing floor (Saturn Top) at that time when came for washing
their washing recipe was: detergent 5 min washing hydro wash maintain a pH of 4.5 tumble dry

CPL