GARMENTS WET PROCESSES

Lecture #: 16

INTRODUCTION TO GARMENTS MANUFACTURING

GM-2041

NAUMAN ALI
Faculty of Engineering & Technology
National Textile University Faisalabad.
 Wet Processing Department

• It’s the department in which garment is under some

physical wet processes. Where garment image or out
look is enhanced after applying following techniques.
 Desizing
 Enzyme application
 Bleaching
 KMnO4 application
 Tinting/Dye
 Neutralization
 Single/Double Stone Wash
 Garment Wash
 Fixer & Softeners

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 Wet Processes

 Desizing
 Desizing removes the solution added to the fabric during the
sizing process. Through the use of desizing agents, the size is
either degraded or solubilized. Enzymatic desizing, the most
popular method of desizing, uses amylase enzymes to eat away
at the sizing; however, the process can also be accomplished
with an oxidizing agent or sulfuric/hydrochloric acid.
 Enzyme application
 ECOSTONE® cellulase enzymes contain both neutral, acid and
hybrid enzymes in different concentrations, offering unique
combinations that make these enzymes highly effective in
creating a rich variety of effects on denim. They give denim
finishers the flexibility to use a wide range of washing
parameters, depending on the precise requirements of the
process.

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 Wet Processes
 Enzyme application
– Enzyme wash is most common in denim wearing. Typical in denim,
due to its unique fabric construction gets antique look with time
passing. An old jean is famous for the white and blue texture that
appears on warp and weft of garment. In fashion it is required on fresh
articles and enzyme wash is designed to create this effect on
garments.
• Bleach Wash:
• Bleach wash or light stone wash refers to light blue shades of
denim. The additional step is bleaching to stone wash. This
bleaching is usually carried out by strong oxidizing agents. In
industry, most widely used chemicals are sodium hypo-chlorite,
calcium hypo-chlorite, hydrogen per oxide and potassium
permanganate.

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 KMnO4 Spray
1. KMnO4 Spray
• Potassium permanganate spray is done on jeans to take a
bright effect on sand blast area. One important thing about
potassium permanganate spray is, this is usually a sporting
process to increase the effect of sand blast. Potassium
permanganate solution is sprayed on blasted area of jeans
garment with the help of normal spray gun. This potassium
permanganate spray appears pink on garment when fresh and
turns to muddy brown on drying. The garment is hanged in
open to dry after potassium permanganate spray and when
the potassium permanganate turns its colors completely then
it is considered to ready for next process.
• It is always followed by neutralization process. Sodium Meta
bisulphate is most commonly used neutralizer. A number of
products are available in market for neutralization process like
sodium meta bisulfate selected on the bases of effect required
on blasted area
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 KMnO4 Spray
1. KMnO4 Spray
• Potassium permanganate spray in best is done in specific spray
booths, where rubber dummies are installed for holding
garments. Garments are mounted on the dummies and air is
filled so the garment is full fit exposed. Specific dummies are
used for different sizes and styles, like for kids, trousers,
jackets, shirts etc. The booths are fitted with proper
air exhaust system. This system leads the spray to treatment
room where the chemical mixed air is usually passed through
the water showers. Potassium permanganate is dissolved in
water and the clean air is blown to open. Shower water is
further treated with mild quantities of neutralizer before
adding to main drain. But where the potassium permanganate
spray is used in low concentrations then there is now need to
treat shower water. This mild potassium permanganate mixed
water is rather useful for water reservoirs to keep the water
clean and germs free.
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 KMnO4 Spray
1. KMnO4 Spray
– Potassium permanganate spray concentrations ranges
form 0.25 grams per liter to 15.00 grams per liter
depending to required results and fabric types.
Usually indigo died fabrics are treated with low
concentrations whereas Black Sulfur Fabric requires
high concentrations to treat with. Sulfur is not much
affected with potassium permanganate and hence
requires high concentrations and even sometime
multiple spray operations. It is more effective to add
potassium permanganate brushing to aid the spray
effect. It is very important to equip the operator with
gloves, gas mask and gaggles. Long time breathing in
potassium permanganate spray may cause health
complications so proper preventive measures are to
be taken for this department.
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 KMnO4 Spray
1. KMnO4 Spray
• Garments are mounted on air filled rubber dummies and
chemical is sprayed on blasted areas. The variables in spray
process are as follow;
• Distance of spray gun to garment- less distance will give more
defined and sharp effect where as distant spray will result to
more mild and merged effect. Distance ranges form one foot
to two and a half foot.
• Air to Water Ratio of Gun- this is to be set very carefully.
Low air pressure possibly will through KMnO4 drops on
garment resulting to bright white spots whereas high
pressure will produce very low bright effect spray effect to
areas where it is not required.
• Potassium Permanganate Solution Concentration- of course,
this will control the extent to brightness.

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 TINTING
• What is TINTING?

After denim pant is being faded, the pants have dyed with
very light color(.001% or .002%yellow or pink).This dyeing
process is called Tinting/Overdyeing .This process is applied
only on garments, not in fabric or yarn.
Necessity of Tinting
• For making new fashions.
• To give the finished garments a better appearance.
• For inventing a new process.

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 TINTING

Tinting is a temporary application of color to give a

used look. The direct dyes used for tinting do not
react with the fabric, where reactive Dyes used for
Dyeing make a chemical bond with the fabric. Thus
garment dyeing have a good wash fastness and
tinting does not. Tinting gives free hand to change
the color tone of denim. Excess tint results in a very
poor fastness to home laundry.

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 TINTING
• Process of Tinting
It is a process where very less amount of tint is involved & mainly direct
dye is being used to do this process. This is being done to change
hue/cast/tone of indigo. As soon as quantity of tint color increases & it
cover up indigo, reaches the level of dyeing.

Tinting being used to give garments a used / vintage & muddy look. This
process takes from 5 minutes to 15 minutes time for better results followed
by dye fixing & clean up of superficial dye.

Dyeing is being done on very light shade of Indigo, Ecru/ grey denim &
Ready for dyeing denim. There are various Types of dyes;

1. Direct Dyes
2. Reactive Dyes
3. Pigment Dyes
4. Sulphur Dyes

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 NEUTRALIZATION

Neutralization process in denim

– A process is provided in which manganese dioxide
stains in denim fabric which has been partially
decolorized with potassium permanganate are
neutralized or removed by an aqueous solution of
per acetic acid containing at least 1 part by weight
acetic acid and 1.5 parts by weight hydrogen
peroxide by weight per acetic acid.

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STONE WASH

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STONE WASH

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STONE WASH

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 GARMENT WASH
• Garment Wash:
• Indigo jeans were once the only item processed by
the garment washing method, but this is no longer
the case. A wide variety of different types of woven
and knit fabrics dyed by different systems are now
used in apparel that is garment washed before retail
distribution. Emphasis is on comfort and softness.
Also, some fashion trends favor the broken-in look
and worn/faded seams that can only be achieved
through garment processing.

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 GARMENT WASH
 Procedure of Garment Washing:
1. Garments can be inverted to minimize unwanted abrasion streaks
(especially useful when preset creases are present).
2. Load machine with garments.
3. Desize with alpha amylase enzyme and detergent.
4. Drain.
5. Rinse.
6. Fill machine with water and heat to 60◦C. The liquor ratio can range from
10:1 to 20:1. A number of synthetic detergents can be used. Also, alkaline
products such as soda ash or caustic soda can be added in amounts ranging
from 0.5 to 2.0 grams/liter. Some chemical suppliers offer special products
that accelerate the wash down process, dependent upon the
particular dyestuff used.
7. Wash/tumble action for 20-60 minutes, depending upon desired effect.
8. Drain and rinse.
9. Apply softener.
10. Tumble dry.
11. Invert garments, if previously turned.
12. Press, if required.

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 FIXER & SOFTNERS

• Softening and fixing

– To give the soft hand feel to the garment
some softeners like silicon or detergents are
applied. And for curing or all pre process on
denim some resins are applied to fix all
effects.

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