RECENT DEVELOPMENTS IN

PRINTING AND
FINISHING PROCESS &
MACHINARIES IN TEXTILES

A.HARSHITHA
KD V
BD/18/3655
 INTRODUCTION

A printing process can be defined as the localized application of the colorant to the selected
areas of the substrate. Besides printing, a dyeing of the textiles is often used in industri-
al applications. The difference between those two processes is that instead of uniformed
coloring of the whole surface of the substrate in case of dying process, by printing, a
color is applied only to the target areas, thus introducing various colors, patterns, and designs
to the textile fabrics. Although today printing is almost synonymous to paper printing, first
printing techniques were used for textile printing and only later adapted for more precise
paper printing. The oldest printed textiles which survived to these days are China‘s three
color silk prints, dated back to 220 BCE, while, according to Brunello, the earliest dyed cotton
was found in the Indus valley originating from around 3000 BCE . The textile printing
methods can be divided into three basic methods:

• Direct printing method

• Discharge printing method
• Resist printing method.

In the direct printing method, which is predominant printing method today, the color carry-
ing pigment or dye (usually in the paste form) is applied onto the fabric by impression. The
impression can be achieved in various ways, which will be explained later in this chapter.
Woodblock printing originating in China is the oldest known direct printing method. The
relief pattern engraved by wood engraving xylography tool (knife or chisel) serves as
the printing areas, which stays at the original surface level of the initial wood material.
The image would be printed from the pattern as the mirror-image, by placing woodblock
on top of the fabric and applying the pressure. The process and typical result are illustrated in
Fig 1. Multicolor prints were achieved by using multiple blocks, each for one color. This tech-
nique is still extensively used in its traditional form in countries like India, producing one-off
designs. Direct printing method was used first and still is the most frequently used method
for textile printing. The most modern digital NIP (Non-Impact Printing) processes are also
considered to be direct printing methods.

Wood block printing Discharge printing

 ADVANCEMENTS

1.INKJET PRINTING:

From the roller printing technology of the fifties through screen-printing to today’s state of- the art
inkjet printing technology by using digital CAD system have evolved in stages of developments.

In digital inkjet printing, print heads, containing banks of fine nozzles, fire fine droplets of individual
colored inks on to a pre treated fabrics. The print design is created digitally and the ink droplets are
mixed together on the fabric surface to create final color, so called spot color.

The print design concept is manipulated digitally the set-up time to produce short runs, sampling,
or proofing is dramatically decreased. All the costs that are generated due to screen engraving, past
making, strike offs, down time and wastage are also completely eliminated.

The dyes are supplied in color cartridges by the dye maker and, ones connected in the printer, are
ready for instant use. Ink jet printing is a low water consumption and low energy consumption pro-
cess compared with conventional printing process.

Principle Of Ink Jet Printing:

Directing minute droplet of ink, from a nozzle, onto the printing substrate. A common feature of
droplet formation is computer control of droplet position on the substrate by their response to high
frequency digital electronic signals. The droplet formation involves the application of controlled
pressure on the liquid ink in its reservoir; as it streams into the printing nozzles, the ink stream is
broken into droplets.

CLASSIFICATION:
• Coarse resolution type
• Fine resolution type

COARSE RESOLUTION TYPE:

It is based on valve control technology. It has maximum resolution of 40Dpi.It is used in carpet in-
dustry.

FINER RESOLUTION TYPE:

It has the fine resolution up to 300Dpi. The most important features of this inkjet printer are the
printing head & nozzles. Numerous nozzles are used to each color. These nozzles are 10 to 1000 in
diameter.
RECENT DEVELOPMENTS IN INK JET PRINTING:

One of the most innovative digital inkjet printers is the Reggiani DReAM machine which
uses scitex Aprion print heads and Ciba speciality chemical inks. Pretreated cotton fabric
160cm wide was printed at 150m2 /h with six colors, the spot mixing giving a very high defi-
nition print design containing eighteen final colors at 600Dpi. The Cibacron RAC reactive
dye inks used were printed and can be fixed in steam, washed off and dried as normal. The
DReAM ink jet printing machine incorporates a continuous-blanket washing system and an
online drying unit. This high speed inkjet printer is designed for printing short to medium
print runs, and opens up many opportunities in the latter field.

The Monna Lisa ink jet printer on the Robustelli stand has been designed for printing high
quality print designs, as well as sampling printing, and has generated interest among Italian
printers. The printing speed is claimed to be about 28m2/h at 720Dpi and 78m2/h at 360Dpi.
The Monna Lisa uses Epson print heads and reactive and acid dye inks developed by Epson.

The Dupont Artistri 2020 digital inkjet printer incorporates Dupont Artistri software and
ink and is based on a piezo print head system. Sixteen print heads are incorporated on two
carriage rolls and four types of Artistri inks in the 700 series are used, namely acid, disperse,
reactive, and pigment inks. The Dupont Artistri 2020 is capable of printing at 30-50m2/h.

Dupont announced at ITMA 2003 that the Rimslow Pvt Ltd’s Steam-X steamer was a mar-
keting partner for this printer. The Rimslow Steam-X steamer is a compact steaming unit for
print fixation and is fitted in line after inkjet printing. The unit has a fabric path length of six
maters on the steamer, which is sufficient at normal ink jet printing speeds to fix acid, reac-
tive, and disperse dyes.

Mimaki showed their TX3-1600 piezo DOD printer with eight print heads capable of print-
ing at 360-720Dpi and suitable for short run production and sampling. A novel printer was
the Mimaki GP0604 printer for printing cotton T-shirts and other garments using Mimaki
pigment inks.

Leggett and Platt Digital Technologies Inc. of the USA exhibited their virtu RS printer on
the Spuhl stand. This uses Virtue-Hue V pigment inks which can be applied to polyester and
polyester-rich fabrics. The print image is cold-cured using ultraviolet radiation and then the
print image is passed in to a thermal fixation zone in which the disperse dyes sublime and are
absorbed by the polyester. The Virtue RS printer has UV-protective shielding and is manu-
factured 2.5 or 3.5 meters wide. The printing speed is claimed to be up to 125m2/h or about
35m2/h on a six-color print.
ONE INK FOR ALL FABRICS: LATEX INK

Bordeaux’s Revolutionary Latex Ink for Textiles: One Ink for all Fabrics
Inspired by the need for sustainable business practices, , Bordeaux Digital Printink launched a
revolutionary Latex ink for textiles suitable for digital printing on virtually all fabrics, natural,
synthethics and blended fabrics. Bordeaux’s Latex ink for textiles is a true breakthrough in the
digital textile field, creating unlimited possibilities for print service providers (PSPs), cost sav-
ings and greater profit-earning potential from all print jobs, whether for fashion and apparel,
decorative or industrial textile applications.

The introduction of Bordeaux’s Latex ink for textiles coincides with the Fespa 2013 trade
show in London where Bordeaux and its partners worldwide are demonstrating for the first
time printing on three unique applications, two dedicated for textile printing on cotton and
polyester and another demonstration of Latex printing on a standard non-modified wide
format eco-printer (stands D12S/E10S). The ability to print on natural fabrics such as 100%
cotton and blended fabrics is critical for the textile market’s digital printing growth beyond
soft signage applications, typically printed on polyester fabrics.

Bordeaux’s Latex based EDEN TX™ is a water-based Latex ink, for versatile digital textile
printing on all fabrics, making digital textile printing an extremely cost effective solution for
short runs of blended shirts and cotton t-shirts.

Using direct digital printing allows for small runs and less waste, but even more important
to many is the ability to achieve exciting designs and top quality garments that increase sales.
PSPs who want to diversify to other applications like “interesting” fashion garments com-
prised of several fibers, have to use different dye-based inks, each formulated to color specific
fibers in the fabric.
Growing demand for faster cycle times, shorter runs, more fashion seasons and sustainabil-
ity is making it necessary for brands and retailers worldwide to move into digital printing of
textiles.
LED BY OKI: PRINTING ON FINISHED GARMENTS MADE SIMPLER

Replacing traditional screenprinting on garments has been the main goal for digital develop-
ers; many solutions are already on the market with one of the biggest problems being to print
on dark fabrics using white ink that does not clog the printing heads. Normally, the printers
used piezo-electric heads developed by Epson, suitable for water-based inks for paper and
textiles but not pigmented inks with big molecules like the white ink.

For this reason the development of garment printing split two ways, one was to create special-
ised printers with bigger print-heads to print faster and reduce the risk of blocking the print-
heads. The other is to use paper-transfer printing; avoiding the problems of direct printing on
the finished garment, and using a totally different kind of technology – LED printing.

LED printing technology was developed inspired by traditional laser printing on paper, a
system that has been in development by OKI for about 30 years, with the possibility to be
used for textiles. Unlike ink-jet systems these printers do not use liquid ink; instead they use
dry ink or a ‘toner’, a kind of chemically engineered plastic electrostatic particles, combined
with pigments, specially developed for laser printers. It uses a photosensitive drum (one for
each colour, normally CMYK or just one for black) that is being charged by a static laser
beam directed to it, one dot at a time, using a complex set of moving optical lenses and mir-
rors. The charged dots pick up the electrically charged ink particles, transferring the image to
the drum, which is then transferred to the paper using heat and pressure, all of this inside the
printer. In this way the digital image is passed from the computer to the drum to the paper in
a complex but smart system.

An LED system is similar in some ways but it uses one array of LEDs instead of the laser and
mirrors for each colour, which charge the drum simultaneously in a strip of light, faster than
the laser printer, and without all the moveable parts. This reduces the energy consumption
of the printer while extending its life. The toner is designed especially for this specific tech-
nology, which, in the case of textiles, is combined with a polymer that attaches to cotton.
The printer does not print on the garment directly, instead the image is printed on a special
paper from where it is passed to the garment using a heat press, just as in a traditional trans-
fer-printing system, with the advantage that only the ink is transferred to the fabric, not the
paper, and there is no need to cut the image around it. The system has the possibility of hav-
ing white ink that is already printed on the paper for transfer on dark garments without clog-
ging the machine.

What is also amazing about this system is the possibility of using the printed image for metal-
lic effects, using it as a base for metallic foil. In this case, the garment passes through the heat
press twice, once to transfer the image from the printed paper and the second time to glue the
foil to the fabric.
In conclusion, LED printers are a simpler technology than laser and ink-jet for printing on
garments. They use less energy and produce fewer greenhouse gases, which makes it a more
friendly system to the environment, one of the new trends in digital printing. Also, compared
to direct digital-printing on garments it is a much less expensive solution, and therefore I
suggest you take a look at it.

A FEW TYPES OF PRINTERS:

DIGITAL WORKFLOW OF PRINTING:
DESIGN & PATTERN COMBINATION:

pattern arrangement Shading

Scattered pattern Background colouring

3-D PRINTING OF TEXTILE FABRIC:

3D printing is the process of creating 3-dimensional objects through joining or solidifying

material under computerized control. In this process, a computer-aided design is converted
into a 3D object, by printing the material layer by layer and joining them in the form of a
cohesive object. This technology is being extensively used both in prototyping and additive
manufacturing.

If we use inject printer to print out an alphabet and look closely, we will find that the ink has
not stained the paper, but it sits on the paper. If we print the alphabet, again and again, it
will take the form of a 3D letter on that paper. The same phenomenon works in a 3D printer,
where a binder material is deposited on a powder bed with inject printer heads, layer by layer,
eventually giving it a form of a 3D object.
3D Printing In Fashion:

The 3D printing technology is being used in various industries, like prosthetics, low-cost
housing projects, automobile parts, etc. both for prototyping and mass manufacturing. Fash-
ion, on the other hand, is an industry, which is yet to completely realize the potential that this
technology has to offer.
This lag is due to the fact that synthetic materials commercially available for 3D printing like
polylactic acid are not flexible and comfortable enough to be used as textiles or in garments.
They print as solids and lack any spaces that allow air to pass through them like conventional
fabrics.
3D printing in textiles is still at a conceptual stage. One promising avenue in this field is com-
bining 3D printed panels with the traditional textiles. The adhesion of these 3D printed pan-
els to the garment, although needs to be worked upon by fine-tuning of the printing parame-
ters.
Also, designers have researched and came up with a collection of garments modeled as the
geometry of sound wave, using rubber mesh that allows the dresses to contract and stretch
like memory foam mattress. The structure compresses when the weaver sits down and springs
open when they get back standing. This design does give the flexibility 3D printing lacked in
fashion, but the comfort part is still a far reach. The look of this fabric resembles fake leather
and it lacks comfort and sticks to the body. Hence, obviously more research is needed, but we
are moving in the forward direction.

3D printing is actually older than internet.

Sir Tim Berners Lee invented the World Wide Web in 1989 while the groundwork for mod-
ern 3D printers were first laid by Chuck Hull of 3D Systems in 1986, years before Berners Lee
wrote his first ever WWW program
The University of Maryland has conducted a recent study of thermal regulation textiles,
where they have used 3D printing technology. This textile is created by 3D printed fibers
made from nano-fiber composite prepared from Polyvinyl Alcohol and boron nitrate. These
fibers are then woven into a fabric with a high level of thermal conductivity, which allows the
body heat to pass through, making the wearer feel a cooling effect. So, using this technology
for making fiber, and then weaving them traditionally is another possibility of using this tech-
nology in fashion.
3D printing is hence limited to its use in jewelry and athletic wear segments in fashion right
now. Brands like Nike and Adidas are using this technology for manufacturing high-perfor-
mance padding and shoe soles, which are generally made from foam. NASA is also using this
technology to produce 3D –printed chain mail material to be used for protective armors for
astronauts.

We are still at the conceptual stage with using this technology in fashion, but we can be op-
timistic that this technology can change the game for future retailers. Both in high-end and
mass market fashion retail, 3D printing can eliminate the need for the extensive manufactur-
ing process.
Advantages of 3D Printing

• In traditional manufacturing, irrespective of the effectiveness and efficiency of the opera-

tions, wastage of raw material is inevitable.
• With 3D printing, we are using as much raw material as required to print, which means we
are eliminating the need for additional raw material, as we can print the exact size of the
panel for each garment.
• Beyond zero wastage, 3D printing eliminates many labor-intensive processes from the
complete apparel manufacturing cycle, reducing the labor costs.
• Apart from cost savings, another big advantage that 3D printing offers is improved quality,
as the occasional human error is eliminated from the manufacturing process.

Disadvantages of 3D Printing In Fashion

• We are still a far way to go when it comes to 3D printed textiles. Currently, 3D printed
textiles and garments fail to offer comfort and flexibility that a garment is expected to pro-
vide. They do not absorb moisture as the layers of the raw material fuse with each other,
leaving no air gaps.
• Apart from the material problems in 3D printing, more research is needed to understand
how design elements can impart drapeability and breathability into the 3D printed gar-
ments making them wearable.
• Also, 3D printed textiles cannot be sewn into garments like traditional manufacturing.
Alternatives, like melting of edges and fusing them to other panels, are being explored, but
we are still in the starting phases.
• Lastly, the cost of material for 3D printing of textiles and garments is high. Producing
samples and limited pieces might be possible, but for mass production, we still need to
identify materials that can make the process commercially viable.
AUTOMATED SCREEN PRINTING:

• Automatic flat bed screen printing

In order to increase the speed of flat screen printing, it was imperative to devise a
method of printing all the colours simultaneously. This entails each colour application
position being fixed while the substrate moves. The colour is applied through the screens
while the frame is stationary.
Flat bed screen printing machines where the fabric remains stationary and the
screen moves on a carriage have also been developed for the printing of silk. The entire
operation is controlled pneumatically
THE SPORTSMAN E

The Sportsman E Automatic Textile Press from M&R machines, supplied in India by Dhaval
Colour Chem, comes with the company’s patented ‘Revolver Print Program’, which simplifies
hard-to-print jobs. The revolver automatically operates individual print heads in programmed
sequence and allows multiple flashing without losing a printing position.

Standard features like independent squeegee and flood bar speed adjustments, adjustable rear
screen holders, independently-set angle and calibrated pressure adjustments, and indepen-
dent print, reset, and print speed controls on each print head further simplify the setup.

[bleft]Once considered a craft, screen-printing is a labour intensive printing technology,

which is dictated by the type of ink used, the medium on which it is used and time taken in
its drying process. Today, as the technology has advanced, highly automated machinery has
been developed that print even 0-12+ colours at a very high speed, increasing printing effi-
ciency manifold[/bleft]

SCHENK VARIPRINT 2002 CX/EX FROM HEINZ WALZ GMBH, GERMANY

Supplied in India by Magnum resources, the Schenk VARIprint manufactured by German

manufacturer of screen-printing machines, Walz GmbH, can easily be operated through a
multi language touch screen control panel. The machine can perform two different print-
ing operations at a time. Through an inbuilt dryer, the first layer of ink gets dried before the
application of the other, thereby giving a smooth three dimensional finish to fabric. There are
six different programmes available in this equipment, of which two permit leaving the screen
flooded after each print. Each station can be individually and independently configured with
any of the available programmes and print/flood strokes set up to 9 strokes.
THE HAWK E ELECTRIC FROM TAS AUSTRALIA

The Hawk E Electric from TAS Australia marketed in India by Batliboi comes with a 4-year
guarantee for its products. TAS Australia is claimed to be the first company that introduced
the industry’s first automatic screen-printing machine to successfully print on garments. The
Hawk-E electric 6-18 colour station offers screen printers a lot of value-added extras not
normally found on an entry-level automatic. With one of the smallest footprints (a tool for
operator with which he can increase the loading time as per his convenience) in the industry
at 13 feet 1 inch, the Hawk E promises to bring years of trouble-free production with minimal
downtime.

It features pneumatic print heads. The quick-release pallets make job changeovers fast and
efficient. The ‘Roto Print Program’, having flash curing facility, which can be attached to indi-
vidual heads, allows multiple flashing with one flash cure. It also has two individual heads for
loading and unloading purpose and central control of the pallets, and squeegee and flood bar
(used to collect the colour, spread all over the screen, by the squeegee) angle adjustment. The
micro-registration machine has been integrated with skip-shirt and no-shirt alarms, leaving
no room for ink wastage and also for stopping the printing process, in case the palette is emp-
ty.
ATENAS OVAL, THE AUTOMATIC GARMENT AND TEXTILE PRINTER FROM PAN-
NON

The Atenas automatic garment and textile printer from the Spanish manufacturer Panon and
supplied by Appeal Print and Packs in India is suitable for all water-based, eco-friendly and
plastisol inks. This oval automatic machine is ideal for long and narrow production sites, as it
allows printing of a number of colours (14 or more) occupying only a width of 3.8 m. Atenas
is also ideal for production sites with columns, as it can be installed leaving these columns
in the centre of the machine. Another advantage of this machine is that it can produce two
different jobs at the same time, because it has in-feed and out-feed stations at both sides of the
machine. This way, a 14-colour machine can be used as two 7-colour machines. The machine
comes with 14-44 pallets having a registering accuracy of plus minus 0.02 mm with a digitally
controlled squeegee sun speed from 0.15 to 1.5 m/sec.
 TEXTILE FINISHING
Textile Finishing is a process used in manufacturing of fiber, fabric, or clothing. In order to
impart the required functional properties to the fiber or fabric, it is customary to subject the
material to different type of physical and chemical treatments. For example wash and wear
finish for a cotton fabric is necessary to make it crease free or wrinkle free. In a similar way,
mercerising, singeing, flame retardant, water repellent, water proof, antistatic finish, peach
finish etc are some of the important finishes applied to textile fabric.

Broadly it can be classified into following classes,which are used individually or in combina-
tion with each other. (other terms are also used such as wet finishing, dry finishing, durable
finishes and non durable finishes)
Mechanical Finishing:
Involving the application of physical principles such as friction, temperature, pressure, ten-
sion and many others.

Calendering:
Calendering is a process of passing cloth between rollers (or “calendars”), usually under care-
fully controlled heat and pressure, to produce a variety of surface textures or effects in fabric
such as compact, smooth, supple, flat and glazed. The process involves passing fabric through
a calendar in which a highly polished, usually heated, steel bowl rotates at a higher surface
speed than the softer (e.g. cotton or paper packed) bowl against which it works, thus produc-
ing a glaze on the face of the fabric that is in contact with the steel bowl.
Compacting
Durable finish imparted on man-made fibres and knitted fabrics by employing heat and pres-
sure to shrink them to produce a crêpey and bulky texture.

Embossing:
This particular type of calendering process allows engraving a simple pattern on the fabric.To
produce a pattern in relief by passing fabric through a calendar in which a heated metal bowl
engraved with the pattern works against a relatively soft bowl, built up of compressed paper
or cotton on a metal centre.

Sueding:
Sueding finishing process is carried out by means of a roller coated with abrasive material.
The fabric has a much softer hand and an improved insulating effect thanks to the fibre end
pulled out of the fabric surface.

Raising or Napping:
The raising of the fibre on the face of the goods by means of teasels or rollers covered with
card clothing (steel wires) that are about one inch in height. Action by either method raises
the protruding fibres and causes the finished fabric to provide greater warmth to the wearer,
makes the cloth more compact, causes the fabric to become softer in hand or smoother in
feel; increase durability and covers the minute areas between the interlacings of the warp and
the filling.
Wool Glazing:
This is done on a special machine, which is used to perform functional finishing on wool fab-
rics after raising.

Shearing:
Shearing is an important preparatory stage in the processing of cotton cloth. The objective of
“Shearing” is to remove fibres and loose threads from the surface of the fabric, thus improving
surface finish.

Stabilization:
A term usually referring to fabrics in which the dimensions have been set by a suitable pre-
shrinking operation

Decating:
Also called Decatizing. A finishing process applied to fabrics to set the material, enhance lus-
tre and improve the hand.Fabric wound onto a perforated roller is immersed in hot water or
has steam blown through it.

Steaming and Heat setting:

It is done by using high temperatures to stabilize fabrics containing polyester, nylon, or triac-
etate but not effective on cotton or rayon.it may be performed in fabric form or garment form
it may cause shade variation from side-to-side if done prior to dyeing; may change the shade
if done after dyeing

Sanforizing or Pre Shrinking:

Sanforizing is a process where by the fabric is run through a sanforizer; a machine that has
drums filled with hot steam. This process is done to control the shrinkage of the fabric.The
fabric is given an optimum dimensional stability by applying mechanic forces and water va-
pour.

Fulling:
The structure, bulk and shrinkage of wool are modified by applying heat combined with fric-
tion and compression.

Enzyme Finishing:
Bio polishing, also called bio-finishing, is a finishing process applied to cellulosic textiles
that produces permanent effects by the use of enzymes. Bio-finishing removes protruding
fibres and slubs from fabrics, significantly reduces pilling, softens fabric hand and provides a
smooth fabric appearance, especially forknitwear and as a pretreatment for printing.

Sewing Thread Finishing:

Apart from many of the above said finishes which can be applied to sewing threads also a
variety of finishes are used to improve the sewability of sewing thread,
 ADVANCEMENTS

Special finishes for synthetic fibers

Heat-setting:
Heat setting of synthetic fabrics abolishes the internal tensions within the fiber, generated
during manufacturing, and the new state can be fixed by rapid cooling. Heat setting can be
fixed in the fabrics at the relaxed state, and it eliminates subsequent shrinkage or creasing of
the fabric. Presetting of goods makes it possible to use higher temperature for setting without
considering the sublimation properties of dyes and also has a favorable effect on dyeing be-
havior and the running properties of the fabric.

Anti-pilling finish:
It alleviates pilling, an unpleasant phenomenon associated with spun yarn fabrics, especially
when they contain synthetics. Synthetic fibers are more readily brought to the surface of a
fabric due to their smooth surface and circular cross-section, and due to their higher tensile
strength and abrasion resistance. With knit “picking” also occurs: by abrasion, individual
fibers work themselves out of yarn loops onto the surface, and the garment will get caught on
a pointed or rough object. Knitting is susceptible to these effects due to the open weave and
bulky yarn.

Anti-static finish:
It eliminates dust from clinging to the fabric. Anti-static effective chemicals are highly inert
chemicals and require thermasol or heat treatment for fixing on polyester fabrics. Polyether
agents are likely useful but it should not affect the dye- equilibrium on fiber, lest they impair
the rubbing fastness.

Non-slip finishes:
Gives the filaments a rougher texture on fabric surface. Synthetic warp and weft threads in
loosely woven fabrics are particularly prone to slip because of their smoothness on the surface
when the structure is disturbed and appearance is not attractive. Silica gel dispersions or silic-
ic acid colloidal solutions are used in combination with latex polymer or acrylates dispersions
to get more permanent effect, along with simultaneous improvement in resistance to pilling
or snagging. These polymer finishes are also contributes in imparting a softer and smoother
handle to synthetic fabric without making it water repellent. Fire Resistant or Flame Retar-
dant finish: reduces flammability.
Functional Finishes:

AquaTex Finish: Traditional finishing processes for these fabrics typically require the addi-
tion of chemicals, in reality; however, these chemical compounds decrease the life span of
such fabric’s performance, and exclude the of recycling possibilities, and frequently engage
appreciably higher additional expenses for wastewater treatments. The AquaTex system or for
the enhancement of woven and some knit fabrics has been developed In lieu of these chem-
icals, which frequently are environmentally objectionable, the AquaTex system only uses
regular water at ambient temperature to attain adequacy of such fabrics in the trade and also
makes them more profitable.

Feather touch & ultra soft touch: Feather touch & ultra soft touch finishes are commercial
names produced by treating with amino, carboxy, or epoxy silicones alone or in successive
treatments. Amino Silicones are widely available in market are widely used in softening. They
impart excellent softness with bounciness when used in concentration 2.5 3% on weight of
fabric in garment finishing. Yellowing and some level of hydrophobicity are the disadvantag-
es. Epoxy silicones, which are most compatible with most of the other finishing chemicals,
impart softness without yellowing and improved fabric strength. They also play a vital role in
wrinkle free finishes by imparting better tear strength.

Rubbery touch: Rubber latex provide lustrous, brittle handle with characteristic rubbery ef-
fect, which are hard-wearing. In leather finish, it is applied as final finish treatments which are
after enzyme or stone wash or after mechanical abrasion and enzyme treatments. Many catch-
ing names such as bio polished & rubbery touch finish, enzyme bio polish & rubbery touch
finish, are quite universal.

Non-stick Teflon spray: This is a new generation multi-use lubricant based on poly tetra fluo-
ro ethylene (PTFE). In service this lubricant forms a tenacious non-stick coating of the flu-
oro-polymer, which does not permit dirt and dust to settle on the fabric surface. This makes
the product ideal for cement plants, textile mills and industries etc. where constant flow of
dust and contaminants affect the conventional lubricants.

Stone wash: Pre-washed, abraded, faded either regular or irregular looks are produced by
subjecting the dyed garments to harsh washing treatments commonly known as stone wash
garments. In order to speed up the garment wash effect and to give garments an even more
exclusive appearance and softer hand; abrasive stones were introduced to the wash bath.
There are variety of natural synthetic stones are available for stonewashing with perhaps the
most broadly used being pumice or volcanic rock. As the stones are used, they slowly disinte-
grate, reducing the severity of the stonewash effect over a period of time. The stones not only
abrade the fabric but also steadily corrode the inside of the rotary drum. A machine used for
stonewashing should not be used to dye when abrasion would be detrimental to the fabric.
NANO TECHNOLOGY:

With the advent of nano science and technology, a new area has developed in the area of
textile finishing called “Nanofinishing”. The term nano comes from the Greek word “Nanos”
which means dwarf or abnormally small. If the criterion is to produce very minute particle
size fibres and materials, nano technology is the only way to achieve the same. Nano technol-
ogy can also be known as the technology that works at the molecular level, atom by atom to
create large structures with improved molecular organization. Nanotech research efforts in
textiles have mainly focused in two areas:
Upgrading existing functions and performances of textile materials.
Developing intelligent textiles with completely new characteristics and functions.
The most significant impetuous to the development of nanofinishes in textiles has been given
by the dedicated work of Taiwan born Dr. David Soane. Through his experiment he devised
ways to use nanotechnology to add unusual properties to synthetic textiles without changing
the fabrics look or feel. Another pioneering work in this field was done by Prof. W Barthlott
of Bonn, Germany. His work involved the understanding of hydrophobicity and self cleaning
properties of a lotus leaf and how it can be applied in textiles. This research was the basis on
which water and oil repellent textile finishes have been invented by Schoeller Textiles, Swit-
zerland. The most recent development in the field of Nanofinishing was developed by Dr.
Walid Daoud and Dr. John Xing of the Hong Kong polytechnic university. These scientists
devised an efficient way of coating cotton with tiny particles of titanium dioxide which get
triggered by sunlight and make the fabric self cleaning against dirt, environmental pollutants
and harmful micro organisms. Silver-containing antimicrobials have been incorporated into
wound care devices are rapidly gaining acceptance in the medical industry. Once absorbed
the silver ions kill microbes, resulting in treatment of infected wounds or the prevention of
infection in at-risk wounds. In SilverlonTM, manufactured by Argentum, nanosilver pro-
duced by the reduction of silver nitrate is deposited on sensitized nylon fibres. The silver
laden polyamide fibres are then attached to a fabric.

Nanotechnology has opened immense possibilities in textile finishing area resulting in to

innovative new finishes as well as new application techniques. Particular emphasis is on mak-
ing chemical finishing more controllable, durable and significantly enhance the functionality
by incorporating various nanoparticles or creating nanostructured surface. Nano finishes are
generally applied in nonemulsion formehich enables a more thorough even and precise ap-
plication on textile surface. They are generally emulsified into either nanomicelles, made into
nanosols or wrapped in nanocapsules that can adhere to textile substrates easily and more
uniformly. Since nano particles have a large surface area to volume ratio and high surface
energy, they have better affinity for fabrics. Therefore these finishes are more durable, effective
and do not adversely affect the original handle or breathability of the fabric.
The different types of finishes in Nano finishing technology include the following:

Hydrophobic nano finish:

Fluorocarbon finish is one of the most important nanofinishes applied to textiles. Fluoro-
carbons are a class of organic chemicals that contain perfluoroalkyl residue in which all the
hydrogen atoms have been replaced by Fluorine. These chemicals have very high thermal
stability and low reactivity which reduce the surface tension therefore making the fabric hy-
drophobic in nature. The attached multifunctional molecule can impart wrinkle resistance by
cross linking cellulose chains and also impart water-repellancy, crease resistance, soil resis-
tance, detergent free washing, increased speed od drying, etc. The durability of this finish is
much better than the conventional fluorocarbon acrylate polymer based finish.

Anti-microbial Finish:
Silver ions have broad spectrum of antimicrobial activities. The method of producing durable silver
containing anti microbial finish is to encapsulate a silver compound or nano particle with a fibre re-
active polymer. Prof. Yang has patented a process for preparing silver nano particle containing func-
tional microcapsule having the intrinsic or therapeutic properties of silver.

Photo-catalytic self cleaning:

Advanced orientation processes that are combination of powerful oxidizing agents with UV or near
UV light have been used to remove organic pollutants from textiles. TiO2 has been proved to be an
excellent catalyst in photo degradation of colorants and other organic compounds. Nano sized TiO2
particles show high photocatalytic activities because they have a large surface area per unit mass and
volume as well.
Anti pollen finish: Miyuki Keori Co of Japan is marketing anti pollen garments or fabrics. The
smoothness of the finish on the surface and the anti-static effect does not let pollen or dust
come close. This is achieved by using the polymer which has anti static or electro conductive
composition.

Flame retardant finish:

Nyacoll nano technologies. Inc has been the world’s largest supplier of colloidal antimony
peroxide which is used for flame retardant finish in textiles. Nano antimony pentoxide is used
with halogenated flame-retardants for a flame retardant finish.

Odour repellent finish:

A Talwanese nanotech firm Greensheild has created underwear that fights odour which is
achieved through nanotechnology. Negative ions create a magnetic field that inhibits the re-
production of odour causing bacteria.

UV protection:
Nano clay particles of montnorblonite is one of the most commonly used UV blocker. It also
increases 40% tensile strength and 60% flexural strength.

Nano particles has thus emerged as the, key technology which has revitalized the material
science and thus has immense potential for development and evolution of a new range of
improved materials including polymers and textiles. However there are many challenges in
the development of these products which needs to be intensively researched so that the wide
range of application envisaged can become a commercial reality. An excellent dispersion and
stabilization of the nano particles in the polymer matrix is crucial to achieve desired nano
effects. To conclude, nano technology definitely has the potential to being a revolution in the
field of technical textiles.

PLASMA TREATMENT

Partially ionized gas composed of electrons, ions, photons, atoms and molecules, with neg-
ative global electric charge. It is called as Plasma Technology. Irving Langmuir first used the
term plasma in 1926. Describe the inner region of an electrical discharge. Plasma, as a very
reactive material, can be used to modify the surface of a certain substrate typically known as
plasma activation or plasma modification. Recent development in the plasma treatment of
textile materials has revealed that it has an enormous potential as an alternate technology for
the textile processing in terms of cost saving, water saving and ecofriendliness. The individ-
ually charged plasma particles respond to electric and magnetic fields and can therefore be
manipulated and contained. The atmospheres of most stars, the gas within the glass tubing
of neon advertising signs, and the gases of the upper atmosphere of the earth are examples of
plasmas. On the earth, plasmas occur naturally in the form of lightning bolts and in parts of
flames. Thus, any ionised gas that is composed of nearly equal numbers of negative and pos-
itive ions is called plasma.
Aims & Object of Plasma Treatment
• It is a simple process which could be easily automated and perfect parameter control.
• It is applicable to most of textile materials for surface treatment.
• It is dry textile treatment processing without any expenses on effluent treatment.
• It is applied for different kinds of textile treatment to generate more novel products to sat-
isfy customer’s need and requirement.

Application of Plasma on Textile Fibre:

Low-temperature, low-pressure plasma (LTLPP). Low temperature plasmas can generally be
subdivided into thermal and non-thermal plasmas here have not, however, been many appli-
cations for the treatment of fibre and textile materials. LTLPP technology has been widely in-
vestigated for the surface modification of textiles and an overview of such plasma treatments
has been published by morentetal.

Application of Plasma in Textile Processing:

• Plasma technology have been used textile materials, resulting in improvements to textile
products. It can improve the functionality of textile materials such as:
• Improved Pretreatment Process: Plasma can be applied to grey fabric which make sub-
sequent removal of impurities easier e.g. Desizing efficiency of cotton would increase by
application of atmospheric plasma treatment.
• Improved Dyeing and printing: Capillarity in wool and cotton, with treatment in oxygen
plasma. Improved dyeing polyester with SiCl4-plasma and for polyamide with Are-plas-
ma.
• Enhance Wet ability: Surface Modification of Fabrics Using a One-Atmosphere Glow Dis-
charge Plasma to Improve Fabric Wet ability. Improvement of surface wetting in synthetic
polymers (PA, PE, PP, PET PTFE) with treatment in O2-, air-, NH3-plasma.There are a lot
of investigations on plasma treatment of some textile fibres for changing their wet ability
properties. For examples, polyester, polypropylene, wool that plasma treatment can im-
prove the ability of these fibres to retain moisture or water droplets on their surface.
• Hydrophobic finishing: The treatment of cotton fibre with identified plasma gas such as
hexamethyldisiloxane (HMDSO) leads to a smooth surface with increased contact angle of
water. The treatment gives strong effect of hydrophobization of treated cotton fibre.
• Product quality: Felting is an essential issue of wool garment due to the fibre scales. Con-
ventional anti-felting gives negative effects on hand feel and environmental issues. Oxygen
plasma gives anti-felting effect on wool fibre without incurring traditional issues.
• Applications in Biology and Medicine: Fabric favoring overgrowth with cells for cell cul-
ture tests, fermentation or implants. Fabric not favoring overgrowth with cells for cathe-
ters, membranes, enzyme immobilization, sterilization.
• Improved Dyeing and printing: capillarity in wool and cotton, with treatment in oxygen
plasma. Improved dyeing polyester with SiCl4-plasma and for polyamide with Ar-plasma.
• Adhesion: plasma technology can increase adhesion of chemical coating and enhance dye
affinity of textile materials.
Special finishes for natural fibers:

• Bio-polishing removes the protruding fibers of a fabric through the action of an enzyme.
Enzymes, such as
• cellulase for cotton, selectively remove protruding fibers. These enzymes can be deactivat-
ed by an increasing the temperature.
• Mercerization makes woven cotton fabric stronger, lustrous; to have better affinity to dyes
and abrasion will be reduced.
• Raising lifts the surface fibers to enhance softness and warmth, as in flannelette.
• Peach Finish subjects the fabric (either cotton or its synthetic blends) to emery wheels,
making the surface velvet-like. This is a special finish commonly used in garments.
• Fulling or waulking is a method of thickening woolen fabric to make it more water- resis-
tant.
• Decatising to bring dimension stability to woolen fabrics.
• Anti-microbial finish makes a fabric to inhibit the growth of microbes. The humid and
warm environment found in textile fibers enhances the growth of the microbes. Infes-
tation by microbes can cause crossinfection by pathogens and the development of odor
where the fabric is worn next to skin. In addition, stains and loss of fiber quality of textile
substrates can also take place.

Garment Finishing:
Garment finishing through garment wet processing will add value to the garment and the
additional effects become the clear differentiator. Garment finishing can be used for various
applications, be it shirts, t-shirts or trousers, but majority of the effects are most popular in
casual wear and denim segments. Garment finishing.

Method Of Application:
There are two methods of garment finishing.
1. Dip process.
2. Tumbling process

Dip process:
Dip the garment inside out in finishing chemical keeping MLR 1:5. Washing machine may be
used.
• Rotate the garment for 20 min.
• Hydro extract the garment to 70 to 80% pick up.
• Tumble dry at 70°C to moisture content 10—12 %.
• Turn the garment right side out.
• Iron/steam press the garment to set the creases at desired places.
• Cure at 150°C—160°C
Tumble method:
• In this process the garment are placed into a machine with a sealed cylinder and applica-
tion of recipe by either pumping or spraying.
• The drum is twisted for 20 min there should not be excessive dripping of chemicals from
the garment. If so more tumbling time is allowed.
• This method is being used most readily due to the fact that there is no wastage of chemi-
cals.
• After saturation the garments are hydro extracted tumble dry at 70°C to 10—20 % pick up
moisture content.
• The iron and steam press the garments to remove/set creases. Cure at 150°C —160°C for 8
-10 min.

Important features:
• MLR should not be less than 1: 0.85 for the garment weighing 600 gm and 1:1 for those
weighing more than 600 gm.
• Minimum time of tumbling should be 20 min.
• Tumble rotation speed 20-30 rpm.
• Tumble drying temp. Should not be more than 70°C.
• Moisture retention after drying should be 10-12%.

Wash down effects:

It can be obtained by a variety of garment processing techniques which are mainly reliant on
physical and on chemical abrasion of the surface dye there by producing different wash down
or break-in looks.
• In garment washing the seams, waistband, pockets, cuffs, etc develop a contour, which can
be obtained by washing in garment from only.
• Washing down of garments is the latest development in fashion technology. Washing
brings out special

EMRGING TECHNOLOGIES:

Nomex® Comfort

Nomex® Comfort is a fabric innovation that directly addresses the need for proven fire resis-
tant protection with a comfortable, breathable technology. For over 50 years, garments made
with Nomex® fibers have been advancing the performance of protective FR PPE. When it
comes to serious hazards in the oil & gas, petrochemical, and general manufacturing indus-
tries, wearing the right FR PPE could be the difference between life and death in a workplace
fire. The National Fire Protection Agency (NFPA) develops and publishes codes/standards for
FR PPE intended to prevent injury and death due to fire and electrical hazards. While the No-
mex® Comfort material is the lightest weight Flame-Resistant Personal Protective Equipment
(FR PPE) fabric, it continues to meet NFPA 2112 and NFPA 70E standards, and provides
enhanced inherent heat and flame protection.
Omni-Heat™ 3D Thermal Reflective fabric technology

Omni-Heat™ 3D Thermal Reflective fabric technology, developed by Columbia Sportswear,

amps up both heat-reflection and heat-retention, creating an entirely new warm experience.
Based on Columbia’s patented Omni-Heat Reflective insulation technology, the new inno-
vation pairs a breathable fabric with the reflective heat-retaining foil component of a space
blanket to provide warmth. The Omni-Heat 3D’s vertically-oriented fibers do three things:
First, they provide an air-pocket between the fabric and whatever it is against. In base layers,
the fibers add additional insulating capacity next-to-skin. Second, the fibers lift the reflect-
ing component by a small degree, minimizing heat loss via conduction and maximizing the
heat-retaining properties of the fabric. Third, the fiber pods create a pathway through which
moisture can move away from the body, enhancing the comfort and wearability of clothing
and footwear.

Vector Textiles Pro-Tex

Vector Textiles Pro-Tex is a textile-based personal protection solution for people who live
or work in areas where mosquitos and mosquito-borne illnesses like the Zika virus exist.
Originally developed by researchers at NC State, the prototype fabrics provide effective, com-
fortable mosquito-bite protection without using chemicals or insecticides. The fabrics are
effective for indoor/outdoor wear in hot, humid climates. Since the Zika virus protection was
a major public concern, the team established Vector Textiles Inc., Raleigh, N.C., to design,
develop and commercialize the fabrics and the Pro-Tex Maternity brand. Initially, the line
consists of innerwear serving as undergarments/base-layers, leggings, and fitted tops. Subse-
quent collections will include maternity outerwear. The clothing will target pregnant women
between the ages of 15 and 49 in Latin America and the southern United States, which rep-
resents approximately 170 million potential consumers.
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