SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY

DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING

Assignment
‖‖
Course Code : Tex-3021
Course Title : Wet Processing Technology-
‖ Subject : Introduction of printing
Submitted To : Md. Shahidul islam
I
Lecturer, Dept. Of Texlile Engineering

Department of Textile Engineering

Southeast University

Submitted By
Name ID no : Esma Jannat 2018000400083
Kazi Minhaz Nur 2018000400105
Imrul Hasan 2018000400106
Abir Hasan Zoarder 2018000400113
Tasnim Akter Tamanna 2018000400112
Tahsin Rafid Lam 2018000400115
Batch : 37th CONTACT PERSON: TASNIM AKETR TAMANNA

Section :2 CONTACT NUMBER: 01794836983

 Index
HEADLINE NAME PAGE
NUMBER
 What is printing? 2

 History of printing 2-3

 Part of a series on the History of printing 3-4

 The Difference Between Dyeing And Printing 4

 Flow Chart of Textile Printing 4-5

 Fabric Requirements for Printing 5

 Print Paste Ingredients 6-7

 Printing paste preparation 7-8

 Printed textile market in chart 8

 Some Printing Process of Different Fabric with Different Dyes:

1. Printing of Cotton Fabric with Reactive Dye 8-9
2. Printing of Cotton Fabric with Vat Dye
3.Printing of Polyester Fabric with Disperse Dye

 Printing Style: 1.Direct Printing Style 2.Discharge Printing Style

 3.Resist Printing Style 10-12

 Methods of printing used to impress coloured patterns on cloth:1.Hand block 12-16

printing 2.Perrotine printing 3.Engraved copperplate printing4.Roller, cylinder, or
machine printing 5.Stencil printing 6..Screen printing 7..Digital textile printing
8..Flexo textile printing 9.Discharge Printing

 Some others printing in textile:1. Calico printing 2.woolen printing 3.heat

16-18
transfer printing 4. inkjet printing 5.silk printing 6. carpet printing and warp
printing 7. blotch andpigment printing

 Conclusion 18

 Reference 19

1
INTRODUCTION TO TEXTILE PRINTING
In the process of printing color designs are developed on fabrics by printing with dyes and
pigments in paste form with specially designed machines. Printing is used to apply colour only
on localized areas. Printed fabrics, usually have clear-cut edges in the printed portions on the
face of the fabric. Printing allows flexibility in creating great designs, and enables the creation of
relatively inexpensive, patterned fabric.

What is printing?
Printing is a process for mass reproducing text and images using a master form or template. The
earliest non-paper products involving printing include cylinder seals and objects such as the
Cyrus Cylinder and the Cylinders of Nabonidus. The earliest known form of printing as applied
to paper was woodblock printing, which appeared in China before 220 AD. Later developments
in printing technology include the movable type invented by Bi Sheng around 1040 AD and the
printing press invented by Johannes Gutenberg in the 15th century. The technology of printing
played a key role in the development of the Renaissance and the scientific revolution, and laid
the material basis for the modern knowledge-based economy and the spread of learning to the
masses.

fig: textile printing

History
Woodblock printing is a technique for printing text, images or patterns used widely throughout
East Asia and probably originating in China in antiquity as a method of printing on textiles and
later paper. As a method of printing on cloth, the earliest surviving examples from China date to
before 220. Textile printing was known in Europe, via the Islamic world, from about the 12th
century, and widely used. However, the European dyes tended to liquify, which restricted the
use of printed patterns. Fairly large and ambitious designs were
printed for decorative purposes such as wall-hangings and lectern-cloths, where this was less of
a problem as they did not need washing. When paper became common, the technology was
rapidly used on that for woodcut prints.Superior cloth was also imported from Islamic
countries, but this was much more expensive.

The Incas of Peru, Chile and the Aztecs of

Mexico also practiced textile printing
previous to the Spanish Invasion in 1519.

As early as the 1630s, the East India

Company was bringing in printed and plain
cotton for the English market. By the
1660s British printers and dyers were
making their own printed cotton to sell
at home,
printing single colours on plain backgrounds; less colourful than the imported prints, but more
to the taste of the British.From an artistic point of view most of the pioneer work in calico
printing was done by the French. From the early days of the industry down to the latter half of
the 20th century, the productions of the French printers in Jouy, Beauvais, Rouen, and in
Alsace-Lorraine, were looked upon as representing all that was best in artistic calico printing.

Part of a series on the History of printing

PRINTING NAME YEAR

Woodblock printing 200

Movable type 1040

Printing press c. 1440
Etching c. 1515
Mezzotint 1642
Aquatint 1772
Lithography 1796
 Chromolithography 1837
Rotary press 1843
Hectograph 1860
Offset printing 1875
Hot metal typesetting 1884
Mimeograph 1886
Photostat and rectigraph 1907
Screen printing 1911
Spirit duplicator 1923
Dot matrix printing 1925
Xerography 1938
Spark printing 1940
Phototypesetting 1949
Inkjet printing 1950c
Dye-sublimation 1957
Laser printing 1969
Thermal printing c. 1972
3D printing 1986
Solid ink printing 1987
Digital printing 1991

The Difference Between Dyeing And Printing

1. In dyeing, only mono colour application can be done, whereas in printing, mono or multi-
colour application is possible.
2. In dyeing, dyes are applied in liquid form, whereas in printing, dyes are applied with
pastes. Salt is needed for dyeing, but in printing it is not required.
3. In dyeing, temperature is used for better penetration, but in printing, temperature is not
used.
4. Water plays an important role in dyeing, but in printing, thickening agent plays an
important role.
5. In dyeing, percentage shade is calculated on the weight of the material, but in printing,
percentage shade is calculated on the weight of the paste.
6. In dyeing, time is allowed for better penetration, whereas in printing, time is not
required, since colour is applied only on the surface of the fabric.

Flow Chart of Textile Printing

Grey textiles / Raw material

 ↓
Brushing and Shearing
↓
Singeing
↓
Desizing
↓
Scouring
↓
Bleaching
↓
Mercerizing
↓
Stentering
↓
Washing
↓
Drying
↓
Winding/Beaming
↓
Preparation of printing paste
↓
Printing (with a certain style and method)
↓
Drying of the printed fabric (in the drier)
↓
Steaming of the printed fabric
(To transfer dye into fiber, 100-102 oC, 15 min in a steamer)
↓
After treatment (Soaping of washing)

Fabric Requirements for Printing

 For proper printing the following are the general requirements of fabrics.The fabric
should be stitched with proper face on top and uniform width.Shearing and cropping
treatment is given to remove loose threads. Desizing is necessary, for proper
penetration of the print paste.Singeing removes hairy fibers, to enable even adhesion of
printing paste
 and sharpness. Scouring gives better dye absorption. Mercerization is given for cotton
fabric and heat setting for synthetics.Full bleaching is suitable for whiter background.
The fabric should be thoroughly dried. It should be free from creases, and should be free
from weft bowing.

Print Paste Ingredient

1. Dyestuff Or Pigments
2. Thickeners And Auxiliaries Used In Textile Printing
3. Wetting Agents
4. Dispersing Agents
5. Anti-Foaming Agents 6. Fixation Accelerators
7. Hydroscopic Agents
8. Oxidizing Agents
9. Reducing Agents

1. DYE STUFF OR PIGMENT

Used as a coloring matter depending on the nature of the fiber. Lumps are broken by using a
wetting agent and a smooth paste is obtained. Selected on the basis of cost, fastness & shade
requirement.

2. THICKENER

Prevents the spreading of the color on the cloth by capillary action. Choice of a thickener
depends upon the class of dye to be printed and the style of printing. Example: CMC, Indalca,
Tracaganth, British gum, Sodium Alginate, Emulsion thickener etc.

3. WETTING AGENTS

Used to obtain a smooth paste of the dyestuff without formation of any lumps. Lumps if
allowed to remain get deposited on the cloth during printing produce dark spots. For insoluble
dyestuffs like vats and Napthols, wetting agents are used to facilitate -wetting of the dyestuff.
For direct, acid, basic & reactive dyes, which are water soluble , a wetting agent is not normally
required.

4. DISPERSING AGENTS

Used to prevent precipitation of dye particles as the concentration of the dyestuff in the
printing paste is high. Example: Di-ethylene glycol, Thio-di-glycol, Sodium benzyl sulphanilate.

5. ANTI-FOAMING AGENT
Used to reduce frothing in the printing paste. Dyestuffs have a tendency to froth during color
preparation and printing because of: The presence of wetting agents. Continuous agitation by
the printing roller and brush finisher. Due to frothing The paste overflows on the floor or into
other color box. The print also becomes specky and lighter in shade.

6. FIXATION ACCELERATORS

Are used to improve dyestuff fixation in printing as well as to shorten fixation time.( swelling
compounds). Example:  P- phenyl phenol is applied for polyester,  Thio urea is applied for
polyamide,  Resorcinal is applied for polyamide, cotton, acrylic fibers.

7. HYGROSCOPIC AGENTS

Are used to take up sufficient amounts of water during steaming to give mobility to the dye
molecules to enable them to transfer in to the fiber

9. REDUCING AGENTS

They are required for discharge and resist printing as a discharge chemicals. Example:  Sodium
Sulphoxilate Formaldehyde

 Zinc Sulphoxilate Formaldehyde

 Potassium Sulphite
 Ferrous Sulphate, Stannous Chloride, Thio urea etc.,

Printing paste preparation

Combinations of cold water-soluble carboxymethylated starch, guar gum and tamarind
derivatives are most commonly used today in disperse screen printing on polyester. Alginates
are used for cotton printing with reactive dyes, sodium polyacrylates for pigment printing, and
in the case of vat dyes on cotton only carboxymethylated starch is used.

Formerly, colours were always prepared for printing by boiling the thickening agent, the
colouring matter and solvents, together, then cooling and adding various fixing agents

Colours are reduced in shade by simply adding more stock (printing) paste. For example, a dark
blue containing 4 oz. of methylene blue per gallon may readily be made into a pale shade by
adding to it thirty times its bulk of starch paste or gum, as the case may be. The procedure is
similar for other colours.
Every scratch on the surface of a roller prints a fine line on the cloth, and too much care,
therefore, cannot be taken to remove, as far as possible, all grit and other hard particles from
every colour.

Printed textile market in chart:

Some Printing Process of Different Fabric with Different Dyes:

Printing of Cotton Fabric with Reactive Dye:

Thickener Use:

1. Na-Alginate .
2. Gum tragacanth.
3. Guar Gum
4. British Gum etc.

Printing Paste Recipe:

1. Procion -M
2. Urea
3. Na-Alginate thickener paste(6%)
4. Regist salt
5. Sodium bicarbonate
6. Hot water

Process Sequence:

Thickener Preparation → Printing paste preparation → Printing → Drying → Steaming (102-105

degree C temp. about 5-10 minute) → Soaping & Washing → Drying

Printing of Cotton Fabric with Vat Dye:

Print Paste Recipe:This recipe will be prepared according to the buyer requirments

1. Vat dye
2. Glycerine
3. Solution salt
4. Starch-tragacanth paste
5. Potassium carbonate
6. Rongolite C
7. water

Process Sequence:

Thickener Preparation → Printing paste Preparation → Drying → steaming (At 100-102degree C

temp. about 3-5 minute) → Oxidation (By air or By chemical)

Printing of Polyester Fabric with Disperse Dye:

Thickener Use:

1. Guar Gum.
2. Starch.
3. CMC

Printing Recipe:

This recipe will be prepared according to the buyer requirments

1. Disperse dye (liquid)

2. Thickener paste
3. Di-ammonium sulphate
4. Sodium chlorate
5. Water

Process Sequence:

Fabric preparation → Thickener Preparation → Printing paste Preparation → Printing→ Drying

→ Fixation ( Steaming /hot air/thermo-fixation) → Reduction cleaning → Soaping ( By 1g/l soap
at 60 degree C about 15 minute) → Washing → Drying

Printing Style
A process for producing a pattern on yarns, warp, fabric, or carpet by any of a large number of
printing methods. The color or other treating material, usually in the form of a paste, is
deposited onto the fabric which is then usually treated with steam, heat, or chemicals for
fixation.

There are three different printing 'styles' used to produce patterned effects on textiles, these
being termed as:

1. Direct Printing Style

2. Discharge Printing Style
3. Resist Printing Style

Each of these will be described in turn.

Direct Printing Style

This method involves the direct application of the colour design to the fabric and is the most
common method of textile printing. The dyes used for direct printing are those which would
normally be used for a conventional dyeing of the fabric type concerned.

fig Direct Printing Style

Discharge Printing Style

In this method the fabric is pre-dyed to a solid shade by a traditional dyeing process and the
colour is then destroyed locally, by chemicals incorporated in the print paste especially for that
purpose. The result is a white patterned discharge on a coloured ground. In “white” discharge
printing, the fabric is piece dyed, then printed with a paste containing a chemical that reduces
the dye and hence removes the color where the white designs are desired. In “colored”
discharge printing, a color is added to the discharge paste in order to replace the discharged
color with another shade.

fig:Discharge Printing Style

Resist Printing Style

In this method of printing the fabric is first printed with a substance called a 'resist' which will
prevent the dye from being taken up in a subsequent dyeing process. The resist functions by
either mechanically preventing the dye from reaching local areas of the fabric or by chemically
reacting with the dye or the fibre, to prevent adsorption.

fig: Resist Printing Style

A printing method in which the design can be produced: (1) by applying a resistagent in the
desired design, then dyeing the fabric, in which case, the design remains white although the
rest of the fabric is dyed; or (2) by including a resist agent and a dye in the paste which is
applied for the design, in which case, the color of the design is not affected by subsequent
dyeing of the fabric background.

Methods of printing used to impress coloured patterns on cloth:

There are eight distinct methods presently used to impress coloured patterns on cloth:
 Hand block printing
 Perrotine printing
 Engraved copperplate printing
 Roller, cylinder, or machine printing
 Stencil printing
 Screen printing
 Digital textile printing
 Flexo textile printing
 Discharge Printing
Block printing
This process is the earliest, simplest and slowest of all printing methods. A design is drawn on,
or transferred to, prepared wooden blocks. A separate block is required for each distinct colour
in the design. A blockcutter carves out the wood around the heavier masses first, leaving the
finer and more delicate work until the last so as to avoid any risk of injuring it when the coarser
parts are cut. When finished, the block has the appearance of a flat relief carving,..

fig:Block printing
The printer applies colour to the block and presses it firmly and steadily on the cloth, striking it
smartly on the back with a wooden mallet. The second impression is made in the same way, the
printer taking care to see that it registers exactly with the first.Each succeeding impression is
made in precisely the same manner until the length of cloth is fully printed. The cloth is then
wound over drying rollers. If the pattern contains several colours the cloth is first printed
throughout with one colour, dried, and then printed with the next.
Perrotine printing
The perrotine is a block-printing machine invented by Perrot of Rouen in 1834 and is now only of
historical interest.

fig: Perrotine printing

Roller, cylinder, or machine printing

This process was patented by Thomas Bell in 1785, fifteen years after his use of an engraved
plate to print textiles. Bell's patent was for a machine to print six colours at once, but, probably
owing to its incomplete development, it was not immediately successful. One colour could be
printed with satisfactorily; the difficulty was to keep the six rollers in register with each other.
This defect was overcome by Adam Parkinson of Manchester in 1785. That year, Bells machine
with Parkinson's improvement was successfully employed by Messrs Livesey, Hargreaves and
Company of Bamber Bridge, Preston, for the printing of calico in from two to six colours at a
single operation.

fig: roller printing machine

Roller printing was highly productive, 10,000 to 12,000 yards being commonly printed in one
day of ten hours by a single-colour machine. It is capable of reproducing every style of design,
ranging from the fine delicate lines of copperplate engraving to the small repeats and limited
colours of the perrotine to the broadest effects of block printing with repeats from 1 in to 80
inches. It is precise, so each portion of an elaborate multicolour pattern can be fitted into its
proper place without faulty joints at the points of repetition.
Stencil printing
The art of stenciling on textile fabrics has been practiced from time immemorial by the
Japanese, and found increasing employment in Europe for certain classes of decorative work on
woven goods during the late 19th century.A pattern is cut from a sheet of stout paper or thin
metal with a sharp-pointed knife, the uncut portions representing the part that will be left
uncoloured. The sheet is laid on the fabric and colour is brushed through its interstices.

fig: stencil printing on fabric

The peculiarity of stenciled patterns is that they have to be held together by ties. For instance, a
complete circle cannot be cut without its centre dropping out, so its outline has to be
interrupted at convenient points by ties or uncut portions. This limitation influences the design.
Screen-printing
Screen printing is by far the most common technology today. Two types exist: rotary screen
printing and flat (bed) screen printing. A blade (squeegee) squeezes the printing paste through
openings in the screen onto the fabric.
fig:screen printing machine
Digital textile printing
Digital textile printing is often referred to as direct-to-garment printing, DTG printing, or digital
garment printing. It is a process of printing on textiles and garments using specialized or
modified inkjet technology. Inkjet printing on fabric is also possible with an inkjet printer by
using fabric sheets with a removable paper backing. Today, major inkjet technology
manufacturers can offer specialized products designed for direct printing on textiles, not only
for sampling but also for bulk production. Since the early 1990s, inkjet technology and specially
developed water-based ink (known as dye-sublimation or disperse direct ink) have made it
possible to print directly onto polyester fabric.

This is mainly related to visual communication in retail and brand promotion (flags, banners
and other point of sales applications). Printing onto nylon and silk can be done by using an acid
ink. Reactive ink is used for cellulose based fibers such as cotton and linen. Inkjet technology in
digital textile printing allows for single pieces, mid-run production and even long-run
alternatives to screen printed fabric.
Flexo textile printing
Flexo textile printing on textile fabric was successful in China in the last 4 years. Central
Impression Flexo, Rubber Sleeves as the printing plate in round engraved by laser (Direct Laser
Engraving), Anilox in Sleeve technologies are applicated in the area. Not only the solid, but also
6 to 8 colours in fine register, higher resolution ratio and higher productivity which are the
outstanding advantages extraordinary different from the traditional screen textile printing.
Aerospace Huayang, Hell system, SPGPrints and Felix Böttcher contributed their technologies
and efforts.
 fig:flexo printing

Some others printing in textile:

Calico printing
Goods intended for calico printing are well-bleached; otherwise stains and other serious defects
are certain to arise during subsequent operations.
The chemical preparations used for special styles will be mentioned in their proper places; but a
general prepare, employed for most colours that are developed and fixed by steaming only,
consists in passing the bleached calico through a weak solution of sulphated or turkey red oil
containing 2.5 to 5 percent fatty acid. Some colours are printed on pure bleached cloth, but all
patterns containing alizarine red, rose and salmon shades are considerably brightened by the
presence of oil, and indeed very few, if any, colours are detrimentally affected by it.

fig: Calico printing

The cloth is always brushed to free it from loose nap, flocks and dust that it picks up whilst stored.
Woollen printing
Wool, dyeing is the most commonly used technique to enhance aesthetic appeal. Printing is not
commonly used either at small scale or large scale to produce beautiful attractive designs.

fig: Woollen printing

Heat Transfer Printing :
Transfer printing techniques involve the transfer of a design from one medium to another. The
most common form used is heat transfer printing in which the design is printed initially on to a
special paper, using conventional printing machinery.

Ink-Jet Printing :
There has been considerable interest in the technology surrounding non-impact printing,
mainly for the graphic market, but the potential benefits of reductions in the time scale from
original design to final production has led to much activity in developing this technology for
textile and carpet printing processes.
Carpet Printing and warp printing
Until then the market was dominated by the woven Wilton carpets and Axminster designs were
well established, but by the 1980s tufted carpet production accounted for some 80% (by area)
of UK production Warp PrintingThe printing of a design on the sheet of warp yarns before
weaving. The filling is either white or a neutral color, and a grayed effect is produced in the
areas of the design.
 fig: Carpet printing and warp printing
Pigment Printing and blotch printing
pigment printingThe pigments are insoluble, and application is in the form of water-in-oil or oil-
in-water emulsions of pigment pastes and resins. The colors produced are bright and generally
fat except to crocking. Blotch PrintingA process wherein the background color of a design is
printed rather than dyed.

fig:pigment printing and blotch printing

Conclusion:
Textiles printing means the localized application of dyes or pigment and chemicals by any
method which can produce particular effect of colour on the fabric according to design. We can
do it by useing different dyes and different method, on different fabric. So in this assignment
we have learn many unknown things about printing which will help us to discover something
new in the future and also in the job sector.
Reference
1. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Printing#:~:text=The%20earliest%20known%20form%20of,G
utenberg%20in%20the%2015th%20century.
2. https://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2011/07/textile-printing-what-is-textile_6758.html
3. https://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2012/03/process-flow-chart-of-textile-printing.html
4. https://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2011/05/discharge-style-printing-process_7450.html
5. https://medium.com/@tom_orwell/direct-to-garment-printing-how-to-make-a-profit-from-
its-great-potential-7b100ba30334
6. https://www.britannica.com/topic/textile/Printing
7. https://sewguide.com/printing-on-fabric/
8. https://www.slideshare.net/SajjadAli63/direct-printing
9. https://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2013/03/some-printing-process-of-different.html