INTERNATIONAL THE ENGINEERING ISSUE RALPH LAUREN — ON TIMELESS STYLE, WATCHES AND CARS BIG PILOT'S WATCH — CELEBRATING TEN YEARS 10 EUROSpitfire Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month. Ref. 3791: In 19: the Royal Air Foroo corm by Reginald J. Mitchel. t ves probably influenced! by that Mitel! had chosen to throw overboard aime about aircraft design inthe Book. The Spite 8 kre came with @ much greater wingspan and alisticl wings ofthe y manoeuvrable arcratt capable o ying Hght curves that {estabished ist as one ofthe mos fascinating Sout giving their own vers Spite a similar repertoice of iano quipped wth a unique m 5 il tice self plenty of tine to soar etegert previously found only on commercial act. The ky for he bast pat of three Amastorp fever bu, The design engineers at shausen set The Spitfire Perpetual Calendar te-Month is LntilMarch 2100. And that gh IWC. Engineered for men.—IVING ae U LN estASTAR ALLIANCE MEMBER 2EDITORIAL — GEORGES KERN THE ENGINEERING EDITION DEAR READER, mechanical watches are, in a classical sense, a uni verse of all-round engineering achievement. An enor- mous amount of thought goes into the collection of wheels, levers and switches that keep a watch running precisely, and the results deserve our deepest admira tion and respect. The stream of innovations is unend: ing and continues to expand the watchmaking uni verse. The knowiedge that there is no end in sight makes us proud and humble at the same time. A watch engineering portfolio, shot by Swiss photo: grapher Valentin Jeck, lies at the center of this issue ~ an edition dedicated to engineering. The portfolio gives ‘@ unique insight into the miraculous way in which mul- tiple parts come tagether to form the Spitie Perpetual Calendar. Shown is, quite simply, the fascinating inter- play between engineering and the art of watchmaking, This is a world we at IWC have known for over 144 years. Every watch we build sustains this heritage and becomes part of the next generation, This can be seen in the Big Pliot on its tenth anniversary. The watch had already been produced once before in Schatthausen, sixty years before its relaunch in 2002. To this day it has remained as big and striking as ever, A fitting frame for this igsue is our interview with de. sign legend Ralph Lauren, who developed an inimita- ble style that perpetually reinvents classical values, and who has personally displayed a genuine love for | mechanical marvels in his own life. Mr. Lauren's love for watches and exquisite automobiles is exhibited in the pages of this issue. Similarly, at IWC, progress and tradition march on hand in hand. INSPIRED BY INSTRUMENTS LIKE THE ALTIMETER FOUND IN A COCKPIT THE SPITFIRE PERPETUAL CALENDAR DIGITAL DATE-MONTH (PAGE 42)WORDS GF GOLD. Re a RC ae eC StarWalker family: contemporary, pure and exclusive. Red Ree dae a a me ee et ced ee ee ee aL MONT? BLANC Se Aen re eG oe\d Aston Martin, Maccades-an2 an hey ao car enthusiast an steamed American fashion d 2 of the mo In this issue, th betvwoan the cars and his overall design philo 18 82 MINUTES + HOURS Technology: Ingenieur INSIDE IWe Karlheinz Baumann A PASSION FOR IWC Andrew Thomas Roberto Di Matteo schoch and Dani Wyss ted Luxury n: Mighights Zurn Automatic Ten Years Big Pilot Spite Per jendar Must Haves cover story Ralph Laurer fos Professor Paul Vo) EDUCATIONACKNOWLEDGEMENTS — WATCH / WWW MARTIN BORN G.M. CASTELBERG VALENTIN JECK Cycling journalist Martin Born has yet Photographer Gian Marco Castelberg Asa filmmaker, Valentin Jeck loved to ind the pass that's too high for him adap to every challenge ~ as for moving pictures. Today, his photo to.get over on his bike. For his ‘example cn his dive over the Furka _graohs capture objects and transform interview with Reto Sohoch and Dani Pass to capture Swiss cycling stars then into “something very special.” A \yss on the Furka Pass, he rode up FReto Schoch and Deni Wyss. A specially of Jeck's are watches, as the with the two cycting stars on his racing spotlight mounted on hs car provided portfolio ilusirating the Spitre bike. Congratulations aro in order, the extra light to make his pictures of Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month fas the pass is 2,429 meters high. the racers that much more impressive, in this issue demonstrates wo PAGE 26 PAGE 26 PAGE 42 DIGITAL WATCH EXTRAS VIDEOS AND OTHER EXTRAS FOR YOUR SMARTPHONE Video footage and other digital content related to various stories in this magazine ere avalable for ‘smartphones (Phone, Android, Windows 7). Extras are indicated by an iPhone symbol in a circle, To use them, downicad the free kooaba Shortout image recognition app and take a ghotograph ofthe relevant page. You can also take a picture of any page you tke to receive @ high-resolution version for your records or to send to someone else Horturg— uour Sian Kast, dle Schircite gest — oro EDITOR Tine Skea, rave — PREPRESS & PRINTING: Dail So, Me Oc 1, ‘8889 Sugen — SUBEERIPTIONS: Maron en Hr ruck Ad, S89 Gdgen el 1 G44, wan aboeerrus.on — ADVERTISING: Mata Arcee, Macinsoiolt nb, Basia 0, CHHED8 Zur, eo 444604540, ridimesenstlt.ch nokimeraiech — EDITORIAL ADDRESS: alc terra, ne WATEH INTERNATIONAL # 64.2082www. piaget.comComposition Vet our showroom or request detailed information. USA: USM U. Schaerer Sons ne..28-30 Greane St, New York, NY 10013, Phone +1212 871 230, International USM, Scharer Sine AG, 9110 MUrsingen Swizeland, Phone +43 1720 72 72 Showroom: Bern, Bern, Oleseldor, Hamburg, Now York, Pare, Tokyo infousm.com, wirw.semcom USM Modular FurnitureMINUTES +HOURS ARTIST AND WATCHMAKER When 2 wall:known artist ike Woytek, 45, anda watchmaking legend lke Kut Klaus, 78, on forees, ‘the results bound tobe somthing extraordinary. Such as the biggest tourbaln ofl ime. Some time ago, Polish sculptor with four large pieces with @ tith work, he Is planning to bring the eyele to an end of sorts. The contorpiece? A tour billon set in the stomach of a gigantic, fabulous being. There ‘was no more obvious partner for this project than IWC's master watchmaker Kurt Klaus, who knows all thoro ie to know about the ins and outs of a tourbillon. As their starting point hmaker took IWO's famous Tourbillon Mystere, which consists of around a hundred Woytek immortalized the seasons made of bronze. Now, the artist and the wa parts, weighs all of 0.438 grams, and is the crowning glory of the Portug doveloped a large-scale toutbillon that was twenty-tWve times the size of the modal on which it was based, The materials hosen were silicon bronze and Damascus steel. Most of the work has been carried out by the famous Strassacker art foundry in ¢ of the same name. Wotking together, they Siesen. The mechaniem ie powered by four vanes, @ fect that turns the object into @ piece of Kinetic art. The result is @ masterpiece somewhere between fantasy and engineering art.ROGER DUBUIS HORLOGER GENEVOIS mA Embrace an incredible world aaah Wiel abi eae aaa in Se BS Se ceMANUFACTURE — TECHNOLOGY ETERNITY IN DIGITS The IWC-manufactured 69800 caliber, which made its debut in 2009, redefined igital date display. |e-dige mechaniem in the perpetual calondar features large-format dis the date and month land, slightly more disereetly, the leap-year cycle. All are ingeniously synchronized. The IWi chronograph movement (based on the 89360 caliber), which has been enlarged to include the calendar features, is also going skyward: it is now the mechanism at the heart of the Spitfire Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month, The W/-manutactred ample f watching vanced, thas equa gs 2 ceutar grain decoration ten in places Unable to 0 hep pata ealencar under trebrioges requires aneoutey no exer cstv and me énaricaly programmes totaxe me varying length of each month ‘Tees twa dace show the then, thea cscs need to be advanced simuta- neously on December 31 Tis eal for aot of enae- ay, and explains why the £20360 eslber comes with nother vory special f= ‘ure: apringtoaded lover ‘ay twoughout he month, before croppina down smarty tis starting polnt at he end. The energy e- the suitching sequence at the end of he meth, contels ta wo pe feted does ihe ve dsngasnbomweon Sate dey, The co ermal ear wt 368 Sorstom 1031. “ADVANCING THE DIALS OF “furyor ole betrcn ted canverend of THREE DISPLAY SIMULTANEOUSLY ep yore shoo na testy te dow ISN? EASY WE COULDNT: hw ses ane OVERCOME THE LAWS OF PHYSICS, — fa, Harmeh oe ay ta BUT WE'VE MANAGED TO USE cu ania te t theremin 1 can 7 ose sou te Ste be seen on the dise THEM CLEVERLY. 18.01.2009 or 2013 (L+1) contre oppostesse diced ovate yes 2003 cimeaa ec Bein an 20%2 we ap yer. Equipped with the nvG-anufactured 89800 callber, the Spite fs the agship of te second IWC Pils Watch ine 1 be namo ater the lagendary British tighter plane, “The mechanical chronograph moverrent records noure and minutes na otlizer at *2 o'clock and seconds on the waten's chapter fing Itals features aback tuncton. The autonomous perpetual calendar has a large date ané month Sso.ay together with &~ sma ~eap-year splay at 60'c0ck. The sof-ninding movement's vit statistics: 28,800 Ah, 52 ones, 6-how power reserve 1 Calendar Digital Date-Moth nts od-gold case WATEW INTERNATIONAL # 04.2032 -vINSIDE IWC — KARLHEINZ BAUMANN wee INSIDE IwCc PRECISE TECHNICIAN PHOTO: DAVID WILLEN Is there any realistic way of comparing a coun- try as small as Switzerland with one as large as Germany? As it turns out, there Is. For years now, Germans have produced the best cars in the world, while the Swiss ~ for 1 much longer period — have produced the best watches! inthe world, Both are products that particularly appeal to men. And both nave thelr price. So it is perhaps not sur prising to loarn that the man who has been in charge of watch production at IWWC Schatthausen for four years Is a physicist who earned his spurs in the German automobile incusty: hie name i Kariheinz Baumann, age 43. ‘A native of Landshut in Bavaria, Baumann has never regrattad his move to Schaffhausen for a second. “The ‘mentalties aren't all that far apert," he laughs, when dis- cussing the differences between Germans and Swiss. With nis expertise earned in the automobile industry, Bau ‘mann was very welcome in the pracision world of WC. Al though the products themselves differ enormously, the manufacturing processes are very similar. As with cars, watches require development and the production of indi vidual parts and assembly, even if cars are put together on ‘a production line and watches under @ loupe. When it comes to production, carmakers are the un- disputed masters,” states Baumann, before adding, 1a ‘specttuly that tracitional craftsmanship in the watchmak- Ing industry is without equel, as he very quickly found out “It's the combination of modern engineering and consum- mate craftsmanship that has fueled our success at IWC." There may be the odd purist who sees a contradiction hare. “Engineered for Man,” the famous IW mantra, en ‘compasses both aspects: the manual and the mechanical Both have to be first-class. Deciding which to use boils, down to a simple question: What increases product qual ty for the customer? Everything, as Baumann stresses, revolves around qual because in the case of highly complex timepieces, elimi- nating rejecte is an ongoing challenge. The best way to ‘ensure quality Is through the watchmakers themselves. ‘They are given responsibilty to the point that their signa ture is practically a guarantee forthe final procuct. Proudly, IW/C's Head of Operations points out tht ‘around fe huncred of the seven hunared and sixty people working at headquarters in Schaffhausen are responsible for the fact that the percentage of watches leaving the factory with @ movement manufactured entaly by IWC i¢ constantly inoreesing, and that the trends stil fry upwards, it shows tne importance WC attaches to what is perhaps the most prestigious indication of al of watchmaking prowess the is house manufacture of movements. When colectors visi, Baumann is one of the inaividuals they are most happy 10 800, and he himsof describes contact with the comossours as “extremely valuable.” Baumann lives with nis family in Schatthausen, takes an activo role in the local Association of Commerce and Industry, and plays footbal at the international schoo! with all the commitment of a Bayern Munich fan. But he is also ‘more familar with Switzerland than many Swiss. Most of his trips take him not beyond the national border but the linguistic one, when he travels to the mountains of the Ju- ra region in the French-speaking part of the county. This Is the genuine heart of the Swiss watchmaking Industry ‘and home to most of VC's supplirs. Initial, it came as quite a shock to Baumann, be- ‘cause ne dint understand what was being said in moet= ings. He had no choice but to learn the French language. Ive another teat he's passed with tying colors: in fact, with this newfound proficiency, Karlheinz Baumann, tke IWC watches, is 100 percent “Swiss Made.”KARLHEINZ BAUMANNPASSION — ANDREW THOMAS THE SCOTSMAN her devoted to the discovery of new treatments for many diseases. A keen footba the company team of his employer Roche for several years. A watch enthusiast intrigued by the engineering beauty movements, Andrew Thomas is a dedicated man of many Photograph this page with the kooaba ‘Shortt app on your smartahone to enjoy ‘more af thie content.Andrew Thomas is a remarkable man, with a range of interests as broad as they are deep. Even his occupation as a research scientist spe cializing in neuroscience at Roche in Basel, Switzer land, is not enough, and Thomas finds tlme te inspire scientists as @ visiting lecturer all over the world ‘As a chemist and collector, Thomas is an export in « numberof fields - including vintage wines and whisky, sports ~ Including cycling, football nd gol, and char ties such as the Laureus Sports for Good foundation; is main passion, however, Is reserved for the mechani- cal movements manufactured by M/C Schaffhausen. In pursuing his extracurricular passions, Thomas’ approach has always been one of meticulous care ‘and attention to details, putting his *brain and soul” into all he does. Naturally introverted, he actively lis: tens, while teling stoves that cast a spell on the lis- tener when he chooses to tell them. In essence, he is ‘a champion of making the best use of his time. *! plan for long days s0 can always prioritize time" he adds Then quickly adds: “Waste of time is waste of life.” Following his undergraduate studies in the Sooitish ‘golfing paradise of St. Andrews, where Thomas ~ an ‘avid gotfer ~ played on the famous Old Course at loast twice a week, he won a place at Cambridge University, where he found a great mentor in Professor Steven Ley. “Exceed your expectations!” — Ley demended of his students, Andrew Thomas took it to heart, Thera was nothing in his background to suggest thet Thomas was destined for a career in medical sc ‘ances. Being bor in the far north of Scotland, a more obvious choice was to folow his family into the fishing industry, But from an eary ago, he wanted to bo a sci fentist. During school holidays on fishing trips, gazing Up at the night sky from the boat, he would visualize connections between the stars to create the back bone structure of novel chemical entities. Already 2s @ chil, he dreamt of designing molecules that would re verse disease biology. Joining Roche straight atter university, Thomas, found the parfact corporate environment to execute his dreams, working in Basel, New Jersey, Palo Alto fr Shanghai ~ as a dadicated researcher devoted to he discovery of new treatments for Alzhoimor’s dis ease, schizophrenia, autism and down syndrome. {nd, it was within his profession and chosan compa- ny that he has also been able to pursue another pas- sion ~ as a Keen footballer ~ playing in the company team. For many years, Thomas even served as team tain, later as player-coach, and now, he is fo- cused on coaching Today, Andrew leade a 40-strong teem of some of the world's best researchers - and mentors about the same number of the most talented students in his lab- ‘oratories who compete from all over Europe to join his team. In his practice, Thomas is constantly striving to Innovate healthcare and to exceed expectations for patient benefit In recent months, he has been recog: rized with two significant awards for his creative work captured through sixty patented inventions. Thomas takes great pride in these achievements, and says: ‘wo aro the only team in the world capable of building disease models and then, in the reverse direction, from the millions of chemical possiblities we can combat isease at the molecular level in neuroscience. It was this keen interest in the microscopic world of the body's calls which led the Scot to become @ waten enthusiast whore doos the tick-tock come from?" recounts Thomas. His grand: father, who served in the Royal Navy, owned an IWC Mark Xl, which Andrew hoped to'inherit. He was in for ‘a disappointment - when the time came for him to re cave the timapiace, Andrew Thomas found the watch box empty, save only for a brief note saying: “Sold to repair the boat. Inthe ond, it was his partner, growing tred of see ing him linger in ront of every shop window dispiaying We watches, who gave him his first IWC Pilot's, Watch as a gift for his 36th birthday. That watch con: verted the Roche researcher into an avid IWC coll tor. He was determined to find out everything worth knowing about IWC-manufacturod movements, and within a short time, owned more than two dozen IWC watches ~ Inoluding most af the vintage cons epit: mized by the classic ingenieur roference 888. Andrew Thomas fondly and knowingly calls the line “a true leon of IWC. was intrigued Right now, after passing his Mastor Masorat diving course, @ 40th-birthday git, Thomas is eagerly await Ing the delivery of his new Maserati It goes without saying that he has iteratively taken it apart and put it bback together again in his thoughts many times. Whore the seagulls ty: The jagged coestine ‘of Sectland ie ome to reeearcn genius and watch enthusiast Andrew Thomas,to manager of London's Chelsea Football Club of the most important fi rom @ rural upbringing in Schaffhausen, home inning global Champions League: own of IWC watches, Roberto Di Matteo, Is without a doubt \qures in European football today ZEN MASTER AT THE TOUCHLINE MAURICE HAAS Roberto Di Matteo diacration is key. ‘or example, when we suggest a photo shoot at London's high-tratfic King's Road, he quietly suggests it not a good idea, fearing that such a session would cause a commotion Though he was raised i Schaffhausen, town home to WC watches, today he is a ‘even in this major capital, Instead, for the sunny streets the small Swiss recognizable figure this interview, we are invited to his home - @ warm gesture ‘rom someone with genuine roots and humility. ‘The road to stardom was long, for both Di Matteo, and for the club he now manages ~ Britain's Chelsea FC. Having be: come accustomed to titles and victory parades, Cholsea Football Club was in danger of slisping into Premier League mid-range anonymity, Success in the Football Association Challenge Cup — known as the FA Cup, was also in peri, And in the Champions League, the moet important competition in European club football, early elimination loomed thanks to a comprehensive defeat at the hands of ocieta Sportiva Calcio) Napol. Chelsea, the storied team laying like a team, Nerves langle. It was at this moment, that the club's owner, Russian magnate Reman Abramovitch, decided to pull the emergency brakes. He dismissed Portuguese-born manager André Villas-Boss - and temporarily, or so it was thought at the time, promoted his assistant, Roberto Di Matt This was ously ambitious man, As it turned out, tho risk paid off. The change in command produced the kind of mira dared to hope for. Napoll was soundly beaten in the return game, folowed by a victory over Benfica Lisbon inthe quarter was no longer ivhis place. bound to be a gamble, but Abramovitch is a fa- ro one had WATEW INTERNATIONAL # 04.2082 -3IWe CHAMPION — ROBERTO OI MATTEO finale. A titanic struggle with Football Club Barcelona ensued, ‘even with their unrivalled Argentinean magician Lionel Messi Likewise, in the frst leg on home ground, Chelsea hela fon to a 1:0 victory by the skin oftheir teeth, Then, in a roturn Jag Imoassiole to top in terms of drama and pathos, Chelsea fought back for a 2:2 draw. This, despite the fact that Barce- Jona had taken a 2:0 lead, and the Chelsea team was forced to play the second hatf with only ten men after the dismissal of their captain, John Terry. in the end, victory inthe final of the Champions League against Bayern Munich was theirs - | after a penalty shoot-out, the most dramatic and nerve: shredding ending possible in a football game. This win in the Champions League came in tandem with the FA Cuo. Not long after, Di Matteo was installed permanently in the Chelsea Managers office. Despite the success, both Roberto Di Matteo’s feet re- ‘main firmly planted on solid ground. This, at any rate, Is the impraseion he gives as wo moot him in London. Is it Swiss ccautiousness, oF British understatement? “The run of games we managed to put together was pretty unique, considering the hole we had been stuck in," concedes Di Matteo. “I don't know if it can ever be repeated." Di Matteo was born in ‘Schettnausen, Switzerland, in May of 1970. This is where his roots are, with his parents having arrived in Schatthauson ‘rom Italy. “I had @ very beautiful childhood,” says Di Matteo. “We didn't have much, but whet we had was enough.” Aged six, Roberto discovered football. He began to practice with unusual dedication for 2 young boy. While many boys may have talent, fow are able to hana it singla-mindady into a git tering career. “It is probably this dedication which has brought me to where | am today," says Di Matteo, In an al- tompt to verbalize the secret to his success. "But it was nev- ‘era chore | loved football, and | ad only one aim in mind. No matter how purposefully a football player works on his skills, ne algo needs luck. The kind of luck, says Di Mat- to, that sees to it that you find yourself in the right place at the right time. For him, this moment came In a tiendly game ageinet an Italian team, while he was a player with Football Club Aarau ~ a Swiss local football team {with whom he be- came the Swiss national champion a few months later). Ia tho game, Di Mattoo played a blinder, and international talent scouts took note, In 1893, he transferred to Lazio Rome. In 1996, Holland's former star forward Ruud Gullit. who at the time had become the manager of Chelsea Football Club, brought him to London. Di Matteo remembers the day he first walked into Stamford Bridge. “Half the stadium was a bbuilaing sito." he recounts. The ara under the generous own: ership of Roman Abramovitch wes still far away - as Abramovitch would not take over the club until 2003. Even then, however, Chaleaa Football Club harbored great aml: tions to leave behind a long and frustrating epell without glo ry and siverware. Roberto Di Matteo, together with his fellow Italian team mates, was part of the fist substantial wave of foreign play- fers able to establish themselves in the Premier League. De- spite the fact that the game's pace was considerably fastor in England, footeail’s birthplace, than on the European cont ‘ent, Di Matteo did not find the switen difcul, Al three Ital Jans played well, and were welcomed wth open arms by the Club's fans. Two FA Cups, one League Cup as well as the Eu ropean Cup Winners’ Cup were Chelsea's haul of Honors in those years ~ thanks in part to Roberto Di Matteo's vision, {and to the precise passes he hit from his mid-feld position, During the 2000/1 season, Di Matteo came face to face with the dark side of a football career when he was injured in a UEFA-Cup gama. He suffered a triple-leg break which, hampered by many complications, took a long time to neal “Two yoars lator, ho was forced to announce hie retremant. It ‘was a brutal end to an exceptional career. “That's Ife,” com: ments Di Matteo today, with remarkable equanimity Roberto Di Matteo did not wallow in his misfortune. In stead, he faced the situation with steely purpose and his usu: ‘al discipline. He acquired the qualtications necessary for a football manager, attended an MBA course in economics at the London Business School, end served simultaneously as @ {football expert on italian and Swiss telavision, “It was not an ‘easy time," recalls Di Matteo, "but on the other hand, | had time at last to enjoy my children, to go for picnics in Hyde Park, and more. | was not bored, believe me!" In July 2008, Miton Keynes, playing in the third division, hoped Di Matteo back into football by instaling him as thelr ‘new manager, Di Mattoo's performance was impressive, and nly one year later he moved on to West Bromwich Albion in the second division, and promptly took them up into the Pre- rier League. His dismissal from the job in February 2011 was sudden, with reasons remaining a mystery even today. Di Matteo regards this setback with philosophical detachment: ‘This fe how the business ig,” he eays, with a emile and a “IT IS THE DEDICATION THAT BROUGHT ME WHERE | AM TODAY.” ROBERTO DI MATTEOMoment of triumph: Roberto Di Mattoo ‘among his players ater winning the Champions shrug. “Even the mo successful managers have been sacked in their time: Marcello Lippi, Arrigo Sacchi, Harry Redknapp, Fabio Capelo all of them. I's part of the game." Until recently, Roberto Di Matteo lived with his English wite and thelr theee children in the small town of Leaming ton Spa, near Birmingham. They currently reside in a flat rented by the Chelsea Football Club for Roberta's first year ‘Soon, the family will move into a bigger place South of the Thames river. ‘Were does Di Matteo see his strengths as a manager? “You'll have to ask the players that,” he says with a myster- ous smile before adding: “But you have to be credible. Even when you're talking about your aims and the future." Keep a fem grip on the real reaching for the stars. Relaxed and comfortable in his skin in other words - even when you are Roberto Di Matteo wanders into his kitchen. An appetizing | stew is bubbling away in @ large saucepan. CI tatoes ie on the menu tonight, He takes a wooden spoon, stirs the broth and contentedly holds his nose over the | steam. Doas he sometimes feel he leads his Ife na pressure coke’ tastes the sauce and nods. icken with po: eer | Roberto Di Matteo looks pensive for a moment. He ‘Sure," he says. But his many Years in football have taught him how to deal with it, and how 10 deal with change. “Nothing ever remains constant in foot bal,” repeats Di Matteo, time and time again: “The injury taught ma that long-term planning can switly turn to nothing "You know," he says, sounding abit ike @ Zen master as we are getting ready to leave, ‘often another, bigger door opens.” when one door closes in ile, PPhotooraph ils page with the kooaba ‘Shortcut app on your smartphone fo enjoyBo a een ee aeTWOFRIENDS OF IWC — RETO SCHOCH & DANI Wyss ‘The Tortour, as the name suggests, is Switzerland's most exacting cycle race. Beginning and ending tat Neuhausen near the Rhine Falls, it covers 1,011 klometers and scalas 13,000 meters, all n @ single leg. Swiss cycling champions Reto Schoch and Dani Wyss are both familiar with the race. In mid-August, the two fought a thiling dus! for vie tory in the solo riders’ category. Schioch, who Is 34, won the race in $4 hours, 20 minutes and 46 seconds. Wyss, eight years older and 20 kilograms heavier, finished the race 21 ‘minutes 16 seconds behind his rival (On the day of our shoot for Watch International, the two cyelsts, one from Apperzel, the other from Valais, meet up on the Furka Pass. Siting inthe restaurant atthe Hotel Belvedere, where the Rhone glacier used to run, we chat about long-die- tance cycling, oF ultracycling as it is known. Asked how they perceived the Tortour, they answer in unison: “A spin.” The two are used to endurance on a differant level: the Race Across America, The world’s toughest cycling race, the RAAM runs from the Paeitic to tne Atlantic ocean, covering ‘more than 4,800 kilometers from Oceanside, California, on the west coast, to Annapolis, Maryland, on the east coast. Wyss carried off victories in this race in 2006 and in 2009, while Schoch won this past summer. In his record-breaking race three years ago, Wyss's lime was & days, 6 hours, 1 ‘minute, Schch’s time was 28 minutes longer, over a course round 30 kilometers shorter. But thei times are not compa- rable, because of the ertical role played by wind. COniy next summar wil veal which of the two utracyolists has the edge, for that is when they will frst compete against each other in the RAM, IWG Is acting as thelr joint main sponsor. Each rider wil have his own team of twelve peopl. These include doctors, nurses, masseurs, and drivers in three support vehicles. In the age of Facebook and online informa- tion, a media team is also part of the lineup. “The race is al ‘ost as tough for them as its for us," points out Wyss. “Sure, officially we're rivals," admits Schoch, “but | don't view the other RAAM entrants as compotitors. They aro all fo low-riders, who spur you on and show you that you aren't ‘alone on the road.” Wyss tekes a rathar diferent view: “I set ‘out to win, and alveye romind mysoif of that when | feo tired, Cor when they wake me after the 20-minute nap which is all we can afford each day.” When Was first entered the race in 2008 he told every inter ‘ested inguirer: “I want to win.” For a rookie competitor, this was bullish stuf, and it inevitably met with a feir degree of skepticism. He was all mouth, they said. He'd soon wake: up. But Wis proved his doubters wrong. Of course, after a tow days on the road his saddle sores wore raw. He was secing the road markings as wavy lines and feeling the effects of sleep deprivation. And, as he rode into the rising sun after a long right on the road, his eyes smarted. But his legs kept rotating Undeterred, seemingly in perpetual motion. The day he crossed the finishing lino, ne was so hungry he could have eaten an ox, "yet," says Wyss, “Iwas stil prancing about lke a young deer." Andrea Clavadetscher, a key member of the Wyss support team, could not believe his eyes. His own exhaustion after his 2001 RAM win had been such that, on returning to Zurich Ai port, he had to be pushed out in’a whesichair. Schoch also found endurance pedaling sasior than his wildest dreams, and this powered him to his “rookle" victory last summer. He had planned a stratagy for the race after re connoltering the course in April~ two-thirds by bicycle and one-third in the support car ~ and everything proceeded ex: actly as planned. He clocked himself from one time station 10 the next (breaks are taken roughly every 100 kilomaters), trom sunrise to sunrise. He waited in vain for the promised halluc rations. He remained clear-heaced and free of saddle sores, thanks to close attention to his behind from a nursing sister. ‘But he was unable to tolerate liquid nutition after a few days. Instead of a range of power drinks, he had to get by on spa. het, chicken and rice or sandwiches. As a reauit, he last five kilograms. When drowsiness threatened on gentle de: scents, ne would snatch a ten-minute power nap. Then, when the sun ros0, he would pedal onwards, feoing refreshed, Wyss knows that smooth progress is not @ matter of course. A year after his fist victory, he experienced a horror version of tne RAM. “I was ill rom the start,” he recalls, “My sinuses were inflamed. | had bronchitis, lost my voice and had stomach ache and digestion problems." The list of alments lengthened later to include Achilles tendons go inflamed he Could hardly walk, knoe problems and swollen hands. so ne was unable to change gear properly or hold his food. "| was @ dead man riding,” he admits - ut he kept going. Fourth placa came as a bitter cisappointment to him, Withdrawn, his marriage on the rocks, he needed coun: seling rom a psychologist. But his final conclusion was posi tive, In 2008, he won his second victory. He might have be: come a serial winner, like the Slovenian Jure Robic before him. Instead, Wyss suffered a shin and flbular fracture in & mountain bike accident. His recovery was delayed and he Photograph this page with the kooaba Shortcut app on your smartphene to enjoy more of tie content“| SET OUT TO WIN, AND ALWAYS REMIND MYSELF OF THAT.” Pure muscle power! Te RAAM is tho world’ toughost eyling competition was only back in peak form in time forthe Tortour, in which he finished second. Now 42, ne has clear alms. He wants to win the RAAM another four times, and be the first to break the eight-day barrier FReto Schoch, whose talent seems unbounded for the time boing, charos a similar dream. He played badminton intensive ly in his teens, making it 1 the national junior team. After high, school, he studiad at the Federal institute of Technology in Zu rich and obtained hie doctorate, It was then that he discov fered biking, and took part in amateur races. Persuaded by a colleague to compete in the Swiss Bke Masters, he came In 19th and was bitten by the cycling bug, ‘Schoch took his bike with him when he was awarded @ place at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology in Boston {and later at Stanford University in Calfornia, Three yoars later, having decided to return to Switzerland, he covered the first 00 kilometers to Washington by bi cays. After that, events moved in quick euccession. His cross-America ride had fuelled Schoch's curiosity about the RAAM. Googling, he discovered that there is also a Race Across the Alps. He entered, won and thus gained @ place at tne start of the Tor tour 2011, for which the closing date for entries hed already passed. Again, he won, Until he was 25, Dani Wyss was an elite amateur whose fortunes had varied. This was the time when cycling was plagued by the 100d doping drug EPO, which sometimes turned mules into racehorses. Wyss felt uneasy about ital, He withdrew from the spor, started a family and worked as a mo cchanic. But he never shook the ality. In 2001, he stumbled upon the ultrabike scene. “My brother asked me if | would ke to join his quartet in the SchBtz 24-hour race. | said: ‘Why not?" He won, Then came a meeting with Andrea Clava: dtachor, the RAAM winner of 2001, and the rest is history. Inthe end, a couple of coincidences have turned the 20%3 Race Across America into a duel between two Swiss riders The competition ison! WATEN INTERNATIONAL # 04.2032 29ys enann Grand Hotel des Bains a breaks by Kempinski 2 + y a we “le On top of the " a www.kempinski.com/stmoritz,DAYS + WEEKS IWC AROUND THE GLOBE W's rat Parison boutique ‘opened inthe hear ofthe prostgzous Rus dia Pax ~ the world of unary watenmaking The year 2012 has marked several grande boutique openings for IW. It began in the early summer with the opening of IWC's frst US flagshio boutique in New York City ~ the largest of its kind worldwide. Macau ‘followed sul with its frst boutique, t the spectacular premier of flagship boutique in Hong Kong. Then was Sao Paulo's turn with the opening of he first boutique in Latin America, fol lowed by Zurich (a2 article “Understated and INC’ frst Pari Rue de la Paix where WC Sehatmausen, Luxury’ on page 32 sian boutiave o Georges Korn, CEO was assisted by French football manager Laurent Blan: luring the ribbon-cutting ceremony. The opening of a new flagship store in Being will gt a final chord in an exciting year in the history of the Swiss watchmaker. Thee years ago, the INC flagship boutique n Hong Kong eta naw standard nthe brand exporionee for elets of ‘he Sas waton manufacturer maUNDERSTATED LUXURY christopH DoswaLDZURICH’S BAHNHOFSTRASSE Unusual stories often start In unusual places. Such is the marshland In the middle of the city of Zurich, that wae once @ favorite hangout for frogs. “The locals called it the "Fréschengraben,” Iteraly Frogs’ Ditch. Teday, no trace of the amphibians or their former home ro mains. In 1864, the ditch was filed and renamed, It has been known ever since 8 Gahnhotstrasse - and in the 150 eventful years that followed, established Iteaif as one of the world’s leading shop pring and business districts. The city’s leading newspaper, the Neue Zurcher Zeitung, has called it a goldmine." Nowhere else in the world do 1,400 meters ~ almost a mile - have more potential than in Zurich, Because 1,400 meters in Gahnhofetrasse are 1,400 me tots of luxury, money and power. Tho street certainly has pull, attract- ing almost forty milion visitors from all cover the world every year. It does 0 not by hanging out its wares for all to 698 but rather with solid, typical Swiss under statement. Disoretion is kay in city that owes its affluence and laissez-faire att tudes in large part to this philosophy of reticence. It's reflected in Max B's Pa villion Skulptur ~ @ monumental geomet Fic structure in granite arranged in the Ccentar of the street, which radiates selt- egurance without being overly imposing, ‘The same spirit Is reflected in the stylishly dressed, if rather minimalist, dis- play windows of the countiess boutiques that line the street. Likewise, understate- ment exudes from the facades ~ virtually ‘ree of any ornamentation = of the bulls ings that set the street's architectural tone. Cars are prohibited, and the only regular traffic to be found on the tree: lined pedestrian precinct is tne tram. James Joyce once romarked that Bahn- hofstrasse is so clean that you could eat your soup off it (Joyce lived in Zurich trom 1916 to 1919 — at an important point in his iterary development) It ig a ralatwely short walk trom Zu- Fich’s main train station via the square- Paradeplatz - to the lakeshore, but both sides of the street exude a good tive nun- dred years of Europe's cultural history. Of to the lft are picturesque medieval lanes and alleys. These stand check and jow! with some imposing edifices dating from the period which saw Zurich's transforma- tion to a major city with international far. (One of the figures who best symbolize this booming era was industrialist Aled Escher, It was largely his doing that a rather rural Switzeriand underwent radical modernization, as ho sot up universities and polytechnics, founded Credit Suisse land forged ahead withthe construction of tho fist Swiss tran lines. Ths isthe rea- son why the gigantic memorial that stands at the entrance to Zurich's main station, looking dewn Bahnhofstrasse towards tho lake, was dedicated to him. It was during this epoch, too, that Bahnhofstrasse assumed the legendary aura Ithas retained, despite globalzation, to this day. In 1838, for example, hotel pioneer Johannes Baur bul the city’s frst real grand hotel, todey's Savoy Baur en Vile, at Paradeplat2. Prior to thi, Zurich had orly boasted a few simple guest houses. Just six years later, Baur bul his second luxury hotel few hundred meters up the road and directly on the lake, the ‘Baur au Lac. Since then, the salons and ultes of these magnificent edifices have set the scene for world and cultural his- tory. Halle Selassie, Ethiopia's divine em- parr, held court on the lake, Elisabeth of Austria-Hungary (‘Sis") honored the hotel with her presence, and Nobel litersture Mocca for watch afiionades: IWC Schaffhausen’ ty openes inary Boutique ‘st Bahnhofstrasse prize laureate Thomas Mann spant his honeymoon with his bride Katia at the Baur au Lec. ‘Another place with a colorful history is ‘Sprinali confectioners. Founded in 1838, the legendary chocolate-making company ‘moved its main outlet to Paradeplatz in 1859, directly opposite the headquarters, Cf Switzerland's two leading big banks, (Croait Suisse and UBS. Anyone paying @ eit to Switzeciand can hardly avoid stop- ping off at Sprdngl. The company’s spe ‘latles such as Luxemburgerli ~ maca- roons, in & delicious range of colors and flavors - and Grand Cru trutlas made from wild eriallo chocolate AA few stops further, at Bahnhofstras- 65, the focus since 1882 has been on the art of fine writing. The premises of Landott-Arbenz stationers, which smell discreetly of leather, ink and paper, house ‘@ museun-lke collection of suport foun tain pens, pencils and other waiting in struments. Limited editions by Carter, Montblane and Dunhill are as much st hhome here as the experly crafted pieces ‘rom Swiss manufacturer Caran d'Ache. Bahnhofstrasse, es you might expect, has long held an irresistible fascination {or fashionistas, One of the top address: €5 is Grieder at Paradeplatz, « depart ment stove extending over 3,000 square meters, that houses established fashion labels as well as mors avant-garde fash lon choices. ‘Amidst 80 much luxury, one location particularly stands out tis a sll square @ lawn with decorative borders, that doesn't rally ft in with all the commercial hustle and bustle, Pestalozzi meadow, ‘named after the great school reformer Jo~ hhann Heinrich Pestalozzi (1746-1827), is the only plot on Bahnhofstrasse that has never been developed. Like so much alse in Zurich, there are historical reasons for this. At one time t was the city’s execution site, whore two vilains were put to desth for robbery and murder as recently as 1857. As a resi, no one wishes to buy It Itig due to this fortunate coincidence that the meadow, despite its prime location, has survived as a place of recreation rath fer than for commercial purposesZURICH — BAHNHOFSTRASSE ZORICH |. the Swiss ILLUSTRATION: CHRIS DENT/ILLUSTRATION DEVISION Zurich's Bahnhotstrasse is one of the world’s ritziest and best-known shopping miles. The main drag between the train station and the lake now has a unique mix the perfect balance of local end global luxury stores, and right at the center of it, the famous Paradeplatz, beating heart of the Swiss business worldSPRONGLI ‘The catb a popular hangout otIte unususl for a watch to have the potential to become a classic from the moment ofits launch, but in the case of the Portuguese Automatic, which has been one of IWC’s most successful models since 2004, there wore signs: that this might be so from the start. It is important to remember, that the watch did not eome straight off the Grawing board: it already had 65 years of history behind it. Yet each time @ new ‘model is released, It reverberates with new impact. Already extremely popular with collectors, the Portuguese ‘was more than an antique simply gathering dust even decades, after its fist appearance: it was a stunning watchmaking ‘achievement, awaiting an opportune moment for its next en- trance. That moment came round again for the Portuguese in 11993, on tha eccasion of IW's 125th anniversary, when it was relaunched in limited edition as a hand-wound, pocket watch- sized wristwatch. The logical follow-up came at the start of the ‘new millennium, after IWC nad developed its biggest-ever auto- matic mevement for the 5000 Series. It had been created ex pressly for the renaissance of a watch with a small seconds hand reminiscent of the pockat watch era, a railway track-sIvie chapter ring, appliquéd numerals and indices, and slender feuille hands. The continued success of the Portuguese Automat largely been due to a new specication, the kind of engin feat typically associated with IWC: a large automatic movement, with Pallaton coubie-pawl winding, When the movement is fully wound, it has @ long seven-day power reserve. One week is, ‘ample time for the owner to teke a few days away from every= day pressures without having to reset the time and date alter- ‘wards. It is algo the main reason for the fourth emall hand, which shows the remaining power reserva. Posttioned at the same hoight as the seconds cisplay, t creates total symmetry ‘on the dial. Also useful, and a stylistically perfect addition, is the date display at 6 o'clock. The choice of case materials - platinum, red gold, white ‘gold and stainless stee! ~ and an increasing range oF dial colors have never atfected the model's pure, unadulterated stylish rnees, which seamlessly combines the timoloss aesthetics and attractive understatement of watches from Schaffhausen In 2012, two unusual models underscore that sentiment, The Portuguese Automatic Dragon Yoar, dackod out in a warm red-gold case with a vibrant slate-and-black-colored dial, is, limited to @ tiple lucky 888 pieces. The Dragon mott on the {gold medallion in the rotor and the special engraving transform this watch Into a work of art, The same intense red-gold case, this time combined with a warm brown dial and additional ac- cents in the form of two black subdials, ensures the uniqueness of the Portuguese Automatic Edition 2012, which is limited to 500 watches. This model, too, is unmistakable a Portuguese land a elassle beauty in te own right. ———$— ‘natant olasic: The voluminous MC-manufectured ‘51011 caliber intogrates al the tnest features ever to grace ‘an automatic movement, such as the high efficient Platon winding system and a seven-day power reserve, Freauency —ai.e0e a/h (SH2) strap wiot — 22/10 HM ‘Photograph this page withthe kooaba Shortt app on your smartphone 1 enioy more af the content WATCH INTERNATIONAL # 04.2032 -»