th

Victorian era / 19 century

- Crinoline Period

By Poulomi Roy
 Crinoline Period

• C. 1840-1870 CE

• Realist and Impressionist art

France, England, USA
 Themes

• Production/resources
– Beginning of Haute Couture
– Chemical dyes make bright colors
possible

• Political Changes
– Victorian era
– Civil War and first Gold Rush in US
– Empress Eugenie in France

• Social Roles
– Motherhood
– Reform dress: bloomers

• Art and culture

– Impressionism, Realism
 Sources of Information
• Extant Garments

• Written documents
– Correspondence, inventories,
literature, etc.

• Portraiture/art

• Photography

• Fashion Magazines including

hand-colored fashion plates

– Godey’s Lady’s Book

– Peterson’s Magazine
Abraham Lincoln, Matthew Brady, US-c. 1863, George
Eastman House
Nude Reclining by the Sea, Courbet, France- 1868, Philadelphia
Museum of Art

Nude, Rodin, France- c. 1867, Musee Rodin,

France
Dejeuner sur l’herbe, Manet, 1863, Musee d’Orsay, Paris
 Stays, Europe or US- 1840-60, UVa Garren Collection of
Historic Dress
Corset, 1868-73, Kyoto Costume Institute
 Corset Cover-

A waist-length, fitted women’s undergarment

worn over the corset, like a camisole.

Corset Cover, 1864-8, Brooklyn/Met

 Cage crinoline-

A women’s undergarment made to support and

shape the skirt in a bell shape, constructed from
a series of gradually widening steel hoops. Worn
from 1857 to the late 1860s.

Cage Crinoline, American- 1860, Met Museum, NY

Corset, drawers, chemise, crinoline, late 1860s, V&A Museum, London
Queen Victoria, Winterhalter, England- 1842, Osborne
House, Isle of Wight, UK

Evening Dress, Europe or America- 1840s, Museum at FIT

Marie-Louise of Belgium, Winterhalter, Maria Carolina of Bourbon, Winterhalter, France- 1846
Belgium-c.1841, National Museum of Belgium
 Pagoda sleeves-

Sleeves that were narrow at the shoulder and

expanded to a wide opening at or above the wrist.
Often worn with detachable undersleeves that were
full and gathered to the wrist.

Day dress, c.1851, silk, British, Met

Day dress, c.1848, Brooklyn/Met Day dress, c.1862, Brooklyn/Met
Undersleeves, c.1850-1865, cotton, American or European, Met
Day dress with detachable undersleeves, 1853-6, wool and silk,
Day Dress, UK-1858-60, V&A Museum, London
European, Met
Empress Eugenie and her ladies-in-waiting, Winterhalter,France- 1855, Musee National de Palais de Compiegne, France
Princess Albert de Broglie, France-1853, Met Museum, NY
Mme Moitessier, France-1856, National Gallery, London
 Euphrasie Proudon, Gustave Courbet, France- 1865, UCSD
Dinner Dress, US- 1855-9, Met Museum, NY
Evening dress, 1850s, French, silk, Met Evening dress, c.1860, silk and cotton, prob. American, Met
Evening dress, 1857-60, Brooklyn/Met
Day dress, c.1857, silk, America, Museum at FIT
Day Dresses, Europe- 1859-60, Museum at FIT
Women in the Garden, Monet, France-
1866-7, Musee D’Orsay Day Dress, UK-c. 1869, V &A Museum, London
 Day dress, c. 1862, cotton, American, Met
Promenade dress, 1862-4, cotton, American, Met
Day dress, Great Britain- 1868, V&A Museum, London
Day dress, UK- c. 1866, V&A Museum, London
Day Dress, Great Britain- c. 1862, V & A Museum London
Day Dress, Mme Vignon, France- 1869-70, V & A Museum, London
Visiting dresses, 1863-5, silk and cotton, American, Met
Afternoon dress, c.1865, silk, poss. America, Museum at FIT
Ball Gown, Charles Frederick Worth, France- 1867-70, Met Museum, NY
Evening shoe, 1860-70,
Brooklyn/Met

Evening boots, 1860-69,

Brooklyn/Met
Franz Liszt, Hungary- c. 1860

Trousers, Tailcoat, waistcoat, Top hat, Shoes, US-1845-53, V&A

Museum, London
Hilaire Degas, Edgar Degas, France- 1857,
Musee D’Orsay
Lincoln, Matthew Brady, US- c. 1863, George
Eastman House
Frock coat suit, 1867-8, wool and cotton,
American, Met Dress and Frock coat suit, c. 1868, silk (dress), British, Met
Family Portrait in Conservatory, H.R. Miller, c. 1850, England, V&A
 Sack jacket-
A loose man’s coat with
no waistline seam worn
for informal, daytime
occasions. The
forerunner of the
modern suit coat.

Edouard Manet, H. Fantin-Latour, France- 1867, UCSD

 A Man Ladies Notice, Edouard de Beaumont, France- 1860s,
Sterling and Francine Clark Art Institute, Williamstown, MA

Sack suit, 1865-70, wool, silk, cotton, British, V&A

Waistcoat, England- 1860-70, V&A Museum, London
Waistcoat, 1850s, silk, American, Met
Waistcoat, late 1840s, cotton and linen, American, Met
Thankyou!