A REPORT ON THE DESIGN OF INTEGRATED HANDLOOM CENTER, THIRUVANANTHAPURAM A Thesis Submitted by N. NEHA B130409AR In partial fulfillment for the award of the Degree of BACHELOR OF ARCHITECTURE Guided By Ar. Namratha Radhakrishnan DEPARTMENT OF ARCHITECTURE AND PLANNING NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY CALICUT NIT CAMPUS PO, CALICUT KERALA, INDIA 673601 MAY 2018For my mother who introduced me to the world of textiles and prints.DEPARTMENT OF ARCHITECTURE AND PLANNING NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY CALICUT, CERTIFICATE ‘This is to certify that the thesis entitled “Design of an Integrated Handloom Center in Thiruvananthapuram” is a bonafide record of work done by Ms. N. Neha, (B130409AR), under my supervision. The thesis is submitted to the Department of Architecture and Planning, National Institute of Technology, Calicut in. partial fulfilment of the requirements for the award of the degree of BACHELOR OF ARCHITECTURE, ‘Thesis Co-Ordinator Guide Dr. Mohammed Firoz C Ar. Namratha Radhakrishnan Dept. of Architecture and Planning Dept. of Architecture and Planning National Institute of Technology Calicut Date ‘This is to certify that this thesis has been examined on and found satisfactory/unsatisfactory, for the award of the degree of BACHELOR OF. ARCHITECTURE INTERNAL EXAMINER EXTERNAL EXAMINER HEAD OF THE DEPARTMENTDECLARATION BY THE STUDEN’ I certify that: a) The work contained in the thesis is original and has been done by myself under the general supervision of the supervisor, ) The work has not been submitted to any other Institute for any degree or diploma ) [have followed the guidelines provided by the Institute in writing the thesis. d) I have conformed to the norms and guidelines given in the Ethical Code of Conduct of the Institute, e) Whenever I have used materials (data, theoretical analysis, and text from other sources, I have given due credit to them by citing them in the text of the thesis and giving their details in the references ) Whenever I have quoted written materials from other sources, I have put them under quotation marks and given due credit to the sources by citing them and giving required details in the references. N. Neha (Name of the student)ACKNOWLEDGMENT This thesis would not have been possible without the support and guidance of many people. First and foremost, I would like to thank my thesis guide, Ar. Namratha Radhakrishnan for her constant guidance, timely inputs and endless support throughout the semester. I am extremely obliged to her for taking me through the process and helping me arrive at a design. I would also like to thank Dr. Mohammed Firoz, thesis coordinator and faculty advisor, for his valuable inputs and encouragement. I also extend my gratitude to Dr. Kasthurba, A.K, Head of the Department for her support. This thesis was made much easier by Mr. Sanal, who helped me find a possible site, the weavers of Balaramapuram and Payattuvila who took their time to teach me the process and soul of weaving and Mr. Rajesh from Sargaalaya for his valuable comments and inpuus Getting through this thesis required more than just academic support, I thank all my Jriends for encouraging me, listening to me and at times tolerating me over the past six months. Lastly, none of this would have been possible without the constant emotional and financial support from my parents and sister. N. Neha ii“The artist like the God of creation remains within or behind or beyond or above his handiwork, invisible, refined out of existence, ferent, paring his fingernails.” -James Joy ivIntegrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram CONTENTS Contents CONTENTS. LIST OF FIGURES LIST OF TABLES. MOTIVATION ABSTRACT. CHAPTER 1 INTRODUCTION 1.1 Aim of the project 1.2 Objectives of the project 1.3 Methodology CHAPTER 2 BACKGROUND STUDY 2.1 Small Scale Traditional Industry 2.2 Handloom Industry in India 2.3 Handloom Industry in Kerala 2.3.1 Key locations of the industry 2.3.2 Weaver satisfaction rates 2.4 Handloom Industry in Thiruvananthapuram 2.4.1 History. 2.4.2 Present centers of the Industry 2.5 Downfall of the Industry 2.5.1 Reasons for the downfall of the industry N. Neha, Thesis, B Arch, Department of Architecture and Planning, NITC 10 10 12 13Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram 2.5.2 Project Rationale. 2.6 Reviving the Industry. 2.6.1 Case studies 2.6.2 Key lessons learned, 2.6.3 Solution CHAPTER 3 PROJECT SYNOPSIS 3.1 Aim. 3.2 Objectives and goals, 3.3 Design Methodology. 3.4 Design Principles. 3.5 Scope 3.6 Limitations 3.7 Principle activities and user groups CHAPTER 4 CASE STUDY 4.1 Understanding Production Unit 4.1.1 Chaliyar Street, Balaramapuram 4.1.2 Payattuvila Co-operative Society 4.2 Understanding Designer Intervention 4.2.1 The Handloom School, Maheshwar. 4.2.2 Ganga Maki Studio, Uttarakhand 4.3 Understanding Academie Block. 4.3.1 Indian Institute of Handloom Technology. 4.3.2 National Institute of Fashion Technology, Kannur, 4.4 Understanding Exhibition Space Contents 4 14 15 19 20 22 2 22 22 22 24 24 24 24 26 26 26 26 29 33 33 2 viIntegrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram 4.4.1 Sargaalaya, Vadakara, CHAPTER 5 DATA COLLECTION AND COMPARATIVE ANALYSIS 5.1 Data Collection. 5.1.1 Production Unit 5.1.2 Standards. 5.2 Comparative Analysis 5.2.1 Production Process Flow Chart. 5.2.2 Data Comparisons, 5.3 Conclusion. CHAPTER 6 PROJECT BRIEF 6.1 Program Flow 6.2 Area Statement 6.3 Conelusion CHAPTER 7 SITE ANALYSIS 7.1 Location 7.1.1 Ownership. 7.1.2 Site Accessibility 7.1.3 Catchment Area 7.1.4 Site Surrounding 7.1.5 Feasibility. 7.2 Site Drawings 7.3 Site over the years 7.4 Site regulations Contents 44 50 30 50 50 34 56 56 58 39 60 61 63 65 65 65 65 65 67 67 68 68 69 viiIntegrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram 7.5 Climate 75.1 Macro- climate 7.5.2 Micro- climate 7.6 SWOT Analysis. 7.7Grid Analysis. 7.7.1 Site Drainage and vegetation 7.7.2 Slope Analysis 7.73 Site Views 7.74 Site Activity and Circulation Zoning, 7.9 Site Zoning 7.9.1 Zoning Strategies 7.10 Conclusion CHAPTER 8 DESIGN. 8.1 Conceptual Ideas 8.3 Design Development, 8.5 Site Plan 8.5.1 Analysis 8.6 Building Design. 8.6.1 Parking structure 8.6.2 Main Block- Academic, administration and production. 8.6.3 Canteen 6.4 Designer studio and dye house 8.6.5 Hostel and Mess block and other stay facilities CHAPTER 9 CONCLUSION Contents 69 69 70 n 1 Rn n B B 75 15 16 1 oe 1 78 81 82 82 82 83 84 85 86 88 88 viiiIntegrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Contents CHAPTER 10 89 REFERENCE 89 Index 1 About the author 92 Appendix 1 93Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram LIST OF FIGURES List of Figures Figure 1 - Methodology Figure 2 Textile production percentage Figure 3. Important places in Kerala of the Handloom Industry Figure 4 Balaramapuram handlooms. Figure 5 Chendamangalam handlooms. Figure 6 Kannur handlooms. Figure 7 Kuthampalli handlooms Figure 8 Structure of Balaramapuram Town Figure 9 Important centers of Handloom Industry in Trivandrum Figure 10 Maheshwar forts Figure 1] Maheshwar Handloom sarees. Figure 12 Fabindia advertisement posters Figure 13 Fabindia - Mumbai Kalaghoda Figure 14 Anita Dongre and her designs Figure 15 Grassroot designs. Figure 16 Chia Maki and her studio Figure 17 Chia Maki Products Figure 18 Design Methodology Figure 19 User Group of the Program Figure 20 Location of Balaramapuram Figure 21 Site Plan of Chaliyar street Figure 22 Chaliyar street. Figure 23 Section of double street Figure 24 Payattuvila cooperative society Figure 25 Payattuvila site plan. Figure 26 Payattuvila Co-operative society. Figure 27 The handloom School- location{12] Figure 28 The Handloom School- Site plan{ 12] Figure 29 Plan of the academic building N. Neha, Thesis, B Arch, Department of Architecture and Planning, NITC be en 12 15 15 16 7 17 18 18 19 23 25 26 27 28 28 29 30 32, 33 34 35Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram List of Figures Figure 30 Design development of The Handloom School 35 Figure 31 Elevation of the Handloom School{12] 36 Figure 32 Site Plan of Ganga Maki Studio[ 14] 37 Figure 33 Ganga Maki Studio- The raised platform is for women who knit threads etc. while men use looms on the area below that. 38 Figure 34 Ganga Maki Studio- This is the designer’s studio. To create diffused light in the studio, semitransparent roofs with bamboo is made. 38 Figure 35 Ganga Maki Studio- This is the area used by other weavers. The space is detached from the designer studio but kept nearby for accessibility, 39 Figure 36 Ganga Maki Studio- This is another example for semitransparent roof. Bamboo frame work is done, and polycarbonate sheets are laid on top. 39 Figure 37 Indian Institute of Handloom Technologies 41 Figure 38 - NIFT Kannur campus. a2 Figure 39 NIFT Kannur Building Plans. a Figure 40 Sargaalaya arts and crafts village [16] 45 Figure 41 - Sargaalaya site plan 46 Figure 42 - Sargaalaya site zoning analysis 46 Figure 43 Sargaalaya - Vehicle Movement and parking aT Figure 44 Sargaalaya - Built form analysis. 47 Figure 45 Cotton thread 50 Figure 46 Winding process st Figure 47 Warping process 51 Figure 48 Sizing process. 51 Figure 49 Beaming process 52 Figure 50 Weaving process 52 Figure 51 Process Flow Chart - Traditional Society. 37 Figure 52 Process Flow Chart - Co-operative Society. 58 Figure 53 Final Program Flow. 60 Figure 54 Site Location Map 65 Figure 55 Site user group catchment area. 66 Figure 56 Plan of site surroundings. 67 xiIntegrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram List of Figures Figure 57 Photos of the site Figure 58 Site Plan (Scale 1.4000) Figure 59 Site Section (Scale 1:4000) Figure 60 Site over the years Figure 61 Site Constraints, Figure 62 Average minimum and maximum temperature in Trivandrum. Figure 63 Average rainy days in Trivandrum Figure 64 2D sun path analysis. Figure 65 Sun Path Analyses on 3D Model, Figure 66 Grid Analyses - Site Drainage Figure 67 Grid Analyses - Slope Analysis. Figure 68 Grid Analyses - Site views Figure 69 Grid Analyses - Site Privacy Figure 70 Grid Analyses - Site Access Figure 71 Grid Analyses overlapped Figure 72 Extent of access into the site for different user groups Figure 73 Inter-relation of activities Figure 74 Site Zoning Figure 75- Concept for Vehicular access. Figure 76 Massing concept Figure 77- Production unit concept. Figure 78- Informal space concept Figure 79 Original site contours Figure 80 Site contours after site development. Figure 81 Initial massing idea Figure 82 First conceptual massing Figure 83 Final conceptual massing Figure 84 Final site plan with all building ground floor plans Figure 85 Masterplan circulation analysis Figure 86 Basement parking plans. Figure 87 First floor plan of main building 67 68 68 68 69 69 69 70. 70 2 nD B 73 74 75 15 16 16 7 7 78 78 78 79 79 80. 80 81 82 82 83 xiiIntegrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram List of Figures Figure 88 Second floor plan of main building 84 Figure 89 Canteen plan and structure 85 Figure 90 Plan of designer studio and dye house 85 Figure 91 Mess block and Guest house plan 86 Figure 92 Mess block first floor and hostel ground floor plan 86 Figure 93 Mess block second floor and hostel block first floor plan. 87 xitiIntegrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram List of Tables LIST OF TABLES: ‘Table I Growth rates of textiles and clothing exports to the world exports s ‘Table 2 Number of societies and members surveyed in Kerala[5] 6 Table 3 Average wages for handloom sector employees[3] . 9 ‘Table 4 Satisfactory seale of members - district wise[5] 10 ‘Table 5 Area statement of Payattuvila Handloom Society 31 ‘Table 6- Area study for academic building 4B ‘Table 7- Floor area requirement for the production unit [21] 54 ‘Table 8 - Floor area ratio and coverage standards 35 ‘Table 9 Off-street parking standards according to KMBR(22] 35 Table 10 - Standards for sanitation facilities according to KMBR. 56 N. Neha, Thesis, B Arch, Department of Architecture and Planning, NITC xivIntegrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Motivation MOTIVATION Chaliyar theruvu (street) is a small community in Balaramapuram, Thiruvananthapuram known for their exquisite handloom sarees. I grew up there, Ten years back, a walk through those streets would transport you to a traditional weavers’ street of Tamil Nadu- beautiful kolam designs at the entrance, children playing on the streets, old women sitting on the “thinnai” stringing jasmine flowers and the whole street drowned in the constant noise of winding and weaving from the weaver’s quarters, Occasionally, you can spot tourist buses with a large group of foreigners who has come to get a first-hand taste of Kerala handloom and large clusters of sparrows pecking on the street. It’s not the same anymore. Globalization combined with the declit ing condition of the industry has resulted in the residents of the community looking for alternate ‘occupations. Even though the life style of the residents hasn’t changed much, the architecture and weaving activities are fast disappearing Presently majority of the community deals with the retail of the handloom products under the brand name of Balaramapuram Handloom with products sourced from weavers’ cooperative society from around the district. My initial intention on taking this project was to look at the opportunities of revival of the community from an urban seale. But on interaction with the residents, their disinterest in returning to their traditional occupation was clear. Hence, I had to look for other alternative solutions, Viewing the issue from a much larger scale, we realize the decline of the industry is due to many different issues like lack of collective administration and research. This project is an attempt to bring back the lost importance to the amazing artisans of the handloom industry N. Neha, Thesis, B Arch, Department of Architecture and Planning, NITC xvIntegrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Abstract ABSTRACT ‘The handloom industry is the second largest cottage industry in Kerala employing up to 1 lakh households. Once a thriving and respected occupation, it now battles with globalization and new age notions about such industries, There are many organizations trying to save this sinking ship through multiple policies and programs. One such organization is the Directorate of Handloom, State Government of Kerala who has proposed for an upgradation of weaving facilities. Indian Institute of Handloom ‘Technology is a central government initiative to educate about the fundamentals of weavings and facilitate research in the field. In Kerala, the main campus is in Kannur and an annex in Thiruvananthapuram which is no more functional. The Directorate of Handloom has put forward an idea to build a new annex campus along with weavers help center. ‘This thesis is an extended brief of the same. ‘The main reasons for the decline of the industry are the lack of infrastructure, organizations, upgradation and low wages. All the present weaving facilities are cramped, stuffy and ill maintained. Also, the absence of a common point for the stakeholders of the industry such as weavers, designers, marketing agents, retailers and students have resulted in the fragmentation of these activities. After detailed study of other cases of industry revival (Fabindia, Grassroots and Maheshwar), itis inferred that the industry will be greatly benefited from the intervention of designers, researchers and weavers. In order to catch up with the fast-moving world, it is necessary to upgrade the traditional methods of weaving and break the monotony of the designs produced. ‘The aim of this project is to design an Integrated Handloom Center that will bring together these operations in a seamless manner. The different spaces necessary for creating an integrated program are — production unit including space for weavers, storage, and package, an annex of Indian Institute of Handloom Design, an administration building, designer studios and exhibition space. This project is expected to breathe new life to the handloom industry which is in much needed revival N. Neha, Thesis, B Arch, Department of Architecture and Planning, NITC xviIntegrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Abstract ‘Thiruvananthapuram, the home of handloom in Kerala, serves as the perfect location for a project of this stature. Other similar project, which includes weaving facilities and heritage settlements, both national and international, has been selected to understand the processes involved, the spaces necessary for production, the quality of the spaces and flow of activities. The data is analyzed to understand some key lessons that is used in the design process. ‘The masterplan is done based on the different privacy levels that the campus will need ‘The exhibition space being the most public is kept near the entrance of the site. The semi-public place such as the administration and academic campus is towards the center of the site while the private living quarters are at the far end of the site. The ‘campus building designs are based on the same principles of the Chaliyar street. The produetion spaces are designed such that it mimies the effect of row houses from the street ‘The outcome of the thesis is a space that can be used by all the stakeholders of the industry throughout the year and to host annual exhibitions thus adding a new dimension to this dying small scale occupation. Keywords: Handloom industry, Kerala, Balaramapuram, integrated, weavers, designers, IIHT, designer studio design, exhibition, handloom center design, weaving unit design, architecture xviiIntegrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram PART 1 [This part contains the study of condition of handloom industry and understanding the necessity for its revival.] N. Neha, Thesis, B Arch, Department of Architecture and Planning, NITC 1Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Chapter 1 CHAPTER 1 TRODUCTION ‘The textile industry is one of the largest industries in India, It encompasses a vast variety of stakeholders from the cotton growers and the weavers to the designers. The rich handwoven materials are preferred worldwide. But the state of its primary stakeholder- the weavers are at risk. The handloom industry is heavily suffering from globalization and lack of upgradation, In order to formulate an architectural solution, it is important to first understand the trend of the occupation and issues that the industry faces today. This is done through various literature studies and first-hand observations. 1.1 Aim of the project ‘The aim of the project is to study the issues faced by the Handloom Industry in ‘Thiruvananthapuram and prepare a project proposal that will uplift the face of the industry 1.2 Objectives of the project ‘The three broad objectives that this study intends to meet include: Identify =To study the industry and identify the issues that can be addressed through the scopes of architecture Formulate -To formulate a project brief with a solution for the identified issues. Design ~To design a space that stays within the spirit of the occupation but uplifis the face of the industry. 1.3 Methodology ‘The methodology adopted is divided into eight stages. The initial stages are aimed at understanding the industry to formulate a solution while the later stages concentrate on the design process and outcome. N. Neha, Thesis, B Arch, Department of Architecture and Planning, NITC 2Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Chapter | INTEGRATED HAND LOOM CENTER STAGE 1 - PROJECT INTRODUCTION -Problem identification -Project objectives STAGE 2- BACKGROUND STUDY - Understanding the industry += Identifying reasons for decline = Case study for occupation revival ~Fabindia Grassroots Ganga Maki Studio STAGE 3 - PROJECT SYNOPSIS + Aim and design objectives Scope and limitation - Principal activities and user groups STAGE 4- DATA COLLECTION AND CASE STUDY FOR DESIGN - Case study for production unit Case study for designer intervention = Case study for exhibition Case study for academic spaces ~ Comparative analysis STAGE $- DESIGN BRIEF + Program flow - Preparation of arca statement STAGE 6- SITE STUDY = Site identification + Site feasibility and justification ~ Site analysis | STAGE 7 - DESIGN DEVELOPMENT = Site zoning = Conceptual ideas + Site development + Conceptual massing STAGE 8 - DETAILED DESIGN = Master plan Detailed design drawings “3D renders OUTCOME ‘Composed sheets Reports Models Figure I - MethodologyIntegrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Chapter 2 CHAPTER 2 BACKGROUND STUDY ‘This chapter is a detailed understanding of the industry and its shortcomings, Various books, articles and papers are referred to achieve this. 2.1 Small Seale Traditional Industry Small Scale Industries (under VSI Sector) encompasses of a variety of industries ranging from handicrafts, silk, khadi and handloom, These are broadly classified into ‘two- traditional and modern small scale industries [1] ‘Traditional industry uses locally available material and skill set and production takes place at an individual level. Hence the industries are highly scattered and unorganized ‘The industry uses very less hired labor and most of the work is done at a household level. The skill set is passed down generations through on job training [1] ‘The modern small scale industry stands closer to large scale industries in terms of production and labor hiring but is closer to traditional industry in terms of organization. t Due to this organizational structure, the industry tends to be invisible and thus allowing globalization to engulf it.[1] The new generations are always looking for more upgraded and respected occupations. Hence the employment opportunities in such industries are overlooked, This has resulted in the slow decline of the number of artisans in these industries. Also, the lack of proper marketing of these products results in its low demand and thus low income for the stakeholders. 2.2 Handloom Industry in India Clothing is one of the primary human needs. ‘This has led to the invention and development of the traditional Handloom Industry. ‘The traditional handloom industry in India dates back to the 5 century. Today it meets 1/3" of the country’s total textile requirement. 2] N. Neha, Thesis, B Arch, Department of Architecture and Planning, NITC 4Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Chapter 2 Handloom industry is one of the most important industries among all the cottage industries in India, It is the second largest employing sector, right after agriculture sector. The industry owns a special place in the country’s economy due to its ‘employment potential and production and export capacity. [2] The textiles produced are either through power loom or handloom weaving, (ixbillion USS) Yer Testes ‘Glothing Work India’s | Tada's | World] India’s | Indus Export | Expos | ‘age | Export | Exports | tage share in share in world world exports exports 3o0T_| 2413] 9a | 406 | 34706 | 993 | 256 200; | 2534] 104s | 412_| senor | 1130 | a5 207 | aia | 912 | 432_| s1se2 | 114s | 362 2010 | 2510 | a7 | 343] 3310 | 100 | a3 zon | 235 | 1501 | sas] aiaas | 1436 | 348 Table Growth ates of exiles and clothing exports to the world exports Around 27.83 lakh households are engaged in weaving activities (87% in rural households and 13% in urban households). India produces 3% of the total world exports and 5% of the total textile production. In India the state leading in production is ‘Assam and Kerala stands twelfth in position with producing less than 0.12% of the total production in India [3] Out of the total textiles produced, we see that Others 1.45 Mi 3.88 power loom takes the center stage with 61% while on handloom contributes to only 11.5% of the total export. This is due to the slower production of handloom material and lesser number of people employed as compared to power loom, But the final product produced using a power loom is not as soft or rich as the one produced in handloom. ‘Therefore, the handloom industry needs new Figure 2 Testle production percentage technology and marketing to catch up with its ‘competitors,Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Chapter 2 2.3 Handloom Industry in Kerala ‘Handloom Industry in Kerala took off during the 15" century when the British, French and Portuguese started trade with Kerala, They were impressed by the Kerala Kasavu, the traditional white and gold hand loom material and exported this in large amounts. Later, the Germans through “Basel Mission” industrialized this sector in northern Kerala [4] Today, Handloom Sector is the second largest employment generator, after the coir industry. According to the 2009-2010 textile department report, 1.75 lakh people were ‘employed by the industry. [4] Members S.No District, soe: |G |u| te 7 Kasaragod [m7 48 |__ 1259 2 Kannur a3 as02 sso | aa [3 yatta 4{ uw o| uw | 4 Keahikkode ai| 5803 vs | 5719 5 Malappuram of 78 [om 6 Palakad 29 | 4303 ses | 3740 7 Thrissur 15. 3215, 101 3114 fs _| Eranakatam 1s | 4600 nor | 3408 9 i s| 388 2 | 386 10} Kotayarn wf 1377 27 | 1160 11 | Alappuche 9 6x0 14 | 546 12 | Pathanamiva a| ar so| an 13 | Kollam a0 | ane wo | 5537 14___[Thirwananibaparam 247 [31071 4369 | 2ee02 Total 469 | 65964 asso | s740s ‘Table 2. Number of societies and members surveyed in Keraa[S] According to this table we see that Thiruvananthapuram has the most number of weavers presently employed while Wayanad has the least. Closely behind ‘Thiruvananthapuram is Kollam and then Kannur. ‘The reason for the presence of more weavers in Thiruvananthapuram is due to the popularity of co-operative weaving societies. These are government subsidized and hence any government textile projects that is introduced is awarded to them. This ensures constant work flow for the weavers. The negative effect of such an initiative isIntegrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Chapter 2 the lack of such opportunities for individually practicing weavers. They must depend on small retailers to get raw materials and market their products which has resulted in higher investment and lower returns. 2.3.1 Key locations of the industry Weaving has been prominent in Kerala since the 15 century. Most of the initial weaving communities are weavers who migrated from Tamil Nadu to serve the ‘Travancore royal family. ‘The most important centers are~ Chendamangalam © Te Balaramapuram Figure 3 Important places in Kerala ofthe Handioom IndustryIntegrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Chapter 2 2.3.1.1 Balaramapuram Balaramapuram, in Thiruvananthapuram district is one J of the most historically important places for the handloom industry in Kerala ‘The weavers belong to the Chaliyar community who migrated from Nagercoil and Thirunellveli from present Tamil Nadu. They produced super fine ‘Mundum Neriyathum’ for the need of the Travancore royal family. Figure 4 Balaramapuram handlooms 2.3.1.2 Chendamangalam In the district of Emakulum, this place is famous for its dyed sarees and dhotis. The check pattern is also included in most of the designs. The place is famous for sarees, mundu, furnishings and towels. The history of Chendamangalam weaving weaves around the feudal family of palliath for whom weavers were bought in from Tamil Nadu and Kamataka to weave "#"°5Chendamansalam handlooms clothes for the royal family members 2.3.1.3 Kuthampalli In the district of Thrissur, this heritage village is famous for its intricately worked Kerala handloom sarees. The weavers here came and settled from Mysore, Other products produced here are dhoti and towels, The sarees are also heavily influenced by temple motifs from Tamil Nadu Figure 7 Kutharpalli handlooms 2.3.1.4 Kannur ‘Kannur is known as the land of looms and lores. The district is famous for its pure cotton furnishings and colored bed spreads. Many leading stores such as co- ‘optex order their products here. Weaving was introduced in Kannur by missionaries. It was first Figure 6 Kannur handloomsIntegrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Chapter 2 started as cottage industry settlement but later shifted to factory system for better work division, This makes Kannur one of the most efficient producers of Handloom. The societies mainly produced khakis for the missionaries initially but later took to weaving, furnishings too 2.3.2 Weaver satisfaction rates ‘The weavers of Kerala are reluctant to stay in the industry due to the working conditions and wages. Survey of 2001-2002 showed Kannur and Kozhikode are the districts where the weavers are most paid with an average annual income of Rs.9000. ‘This is due to the factory system that has been set up by the Basal Mission here. The weavers of Thiruvananthapuram are underpaid, with an average income of Rs.8000 despite the historical importance of the place and quality of the products, [5] Over the years this figure has reduced even more. The work places are unfit for female workers and even necessities such as toilets are not present. These issues have discouraged the new generation to take up jobs in this sector. Trea ai | men | wramis | a ms 2 | Kane za | ans | aiaooiz0 | 930 108 3 | Mlpeun so | am | ansee [ sm os [armas [ots [Paid vs | rons ‘iat [seu | ie | wns | sous To | ema ot | — soar | season [wr [pas | aise [2597 [Apts so | was | sor [148 a] oem | ew 12 [Patio | sais | na [ost av [ose | or 1 | Thsmipsn [anes | senso rowtoasss [su 2 | namust | er ‘Table 3 Average wages for handloom sector employees|5} From the table, we can infer that the average wages of the weavers are steadily declining over the years. In the year 2000 it was Rs.8736, but in the year 2002 it dropped to Rs.8252. [5] Also according to the 2002 report, out of 21,000 weavers in Kerala 11,000 weavers were not satisfied with wither the wages or the job conditions whereas only 3000 weavers were satisfied with bothIntegrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Chapter 2 ‘Table 4 Satistactoryseale of members - district wise[S] 2.4 Handloom Industry in Thiruvananthapuram As the Directorate of Handloom have already proposed for a IIHT annex campus in ‘Thiruvananthapuram and also because number of weavers are the highest in the district, it is only apt that the project site is chosen in this district. A detailed study into present condition of the industry and reasons for decline is done for the district, especially Balaramapuram. 2.4.1 History It was during the rule of His Highness Maharaja Balarama Varma, which dates back from 1790 to 1800 that the handloom weaving industry was first introduced in Balaramapuram. The Maharaja and his Chief Minister, Ummini Thampi jointly decided to convert Balaramapuram and its surrounding places in to an agro-based industrial belt with various traditional industries by the development of paddy and coconut cultivation, fishing, weaving, oil extraction, etc. Market places were opened at convenient locations to make the marketing of products easier “The Maharaja brought seven weaver families (Chaliyars) from Tamil Nadu and made them settle in Balaramapuram in a separate location now called "Chaliyar Street” [6] ‘The other major sects brought in by the Maharaja include the following-Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Chapter 2 Balaramapuram Figure 8 Structure of Balaramapuram Town ‘The town still sustains through these different communities. Due to the presence of many Tamil communities, the culture of the place is also a mixture of Malayalam and ‘Tamil communities, ‘The Vaniyar: They are traditional oil makers who migrated from Tamil Nadu. They ‘own mills that extract oil out of dried coconut ‘The Muslims: The Muslims were brought and settled here for trade. They owned shops in the center of town, They are natives of Thakkalai, a town on Kerala Tamil Nadu border, ‘The Mukkuvar: They are Christian communities who are engaged in the fisheries business. They purchase fish from the fishermen in Kovalam and sell it at the town market in Balaramapuram, ‘The Ezhavas: They were primarily farmers who owned small plots of land in the ‘outskirts of the town where they cultivated coconut, riee and tapioca ‘The Saliya: ‘They are traditionally Tamil speaking and engage in production and retail of traditional Kerala Handloom materials ‘Also known as Chaliyars, they are primarily the weaving community.Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Chapter 2 2.4.2 Present centers of the Industry ‘The map below indicates the locations of two different types of establishments in the district. The red dots represent positions of cooperative society and the purple dots specify the different government offices. From this map, we can understand that most ‘of the centers are established at different places in the district, thus proving fragmentation of the activities ‘Also, most of the co-operative societies in the district is near Balaramapuram and in close proximity to Chaliyar Street. Figure 9 Important centers of Handloom Industry in Tevandrum ‘The other important offices and centers of the industry are- 1. Directorate of Handloom, Government of Kerala situated at Secretariat in the ‘Trivandrum City. 12Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Chapter 2 2. Nemom Handloom Warehouse where finished products are stored, and raw materials can be purchased at government subsidized rate by weavers, 3. Balaramapuram Chaliyar Street is an important commercial center for purchasing Kerala Handloom sarees and materials. The products used to be made there but now they are brought in from other societies around 4, Hantex co-operative office is situated near the power loom factory as a center for collection of produets, 5. Neyyantinkara co-operative society acts as the governing society and all others are branches of the same 6 Annex of Indian Institute of Handloom Technology was started in Balaramapuram to train weavers but had to be discontinued due to lack of infrastructure. 2.5 Downfall of the Industry Despite the importance of the industry it is one of the fust-declining industries. The reasons are many and the government is introducing many policies to save the industry. 2. To formulate a solution, -1 Reasons for the downfall of the industry rst the shortcoming of the industry should be studied. Lack of proper infrastructure “The present weaving centers do not have safe a sufficient infrastructure. This creates bad work environment for the weavers especially women. This also causes health hazards such as sight loss and breathing trouble. Presence of middlemen between weavers and market, ‘The products weaved used to be directly sold by the weavers in the market. But now there are many men that buy these products for very low rate from weavers and sell in market for higher rates. Low wages for the weavers “The weavers get paid or earn very less due to low demand for the product and industry. “There are many government schemes trying to better the situationIntegrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Chapter 2 Need for better technology ‘The industry does not have any product development technique or production speeding technique research work going on. This slows down the industry and allows it to be engulfed by globalization Need for innovative design ‘The products produced have not been upgraded since its introduction. So, the newer generation might find the collection of designs monotonous and boring. So, it is important to bring designers into the scenario and improve the products. Lack of new people in the field ‘There are lesser and lesser people taking employment in this field due to all these mentioned issues. Also, youngsters tend to look for established industries to work in Hence it is very important to create an established center for the industry Scattering of the administrative infrastructure ‘The industry has many different government and non-government bodies working to better the cases. But these are scattered throughout the state and district making it difficult for the weavers and the organization to collaborate, Also, the weavers find it difficult to directly approach such centers for help 2.5.2 Project Rationale From the above study, we understand the industry is in immediate need for a facelift. ‘Therefore, this project is an attempt to find a viable architectural solution for the same. The idea is to create a single space for the different activities thus reducing fragmentation and creating opportunities for research and testing. This will in 2.6 Rev g the Industry To arrive at a clear-cut vision, it is important to study similar cases of textile industry revival, The textile industry throughout India has been facing the same issues and many individuals as well as groups have come forward to provide assistance in reviving the sector.Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Chapter 2 2.6.1 Case studies ‘Three case studies of different scenarios are chosen here, The case study on Maheshwar tells the story of how a historic weaving town was revived through intervention by NGOs. Fabindia and its franchise is studied on how thoughtful design of a space can market simple produets to a wide range of customers, Grassroots is a brand name created by the sustainable textile designer Anita Dongre, The brand aims at marketing produets weaved in the rural parts of Gujarat and Rajasthan, Ganga Maki studio is a designer studio set up by Japanese designer Chia Maki in Dehradun to explore the traditional weaving techniques and translate them into new age designs. 2.6.1.1 Story of Maheshwar Maheshwar has been a center of handloom weaving since the Sth century. Maheshwar is noted as a center for weaving colorful Maheshwari saris and its historical forts. These cotton saris are weaved with distinctive designs involving stripes, checks and floral borders inspired from Narmada River and forests, Figure 11 Maheshiwar Handloom sarees Figure 10 Maheshwar forts Due to low demand for such products the craft has declined over the years. There are many designers and organization working towards saving the craft and one such organization is Women Weave with their initiative of The Handloom School. ‘The creation of a unique Handloom School specifically designed for young weavers in Maheshwar, Central India, is an innovative initiative launched by Women Weave. Its intent is to provide a rigorous, nontraditional education for students who possess traditional weaving skills but no access to a conventional academic education.{7]Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Chapter 2 Women Weave through The Handloom School (THS) initiative is nurturing young weavers to make the most of their heritage, to deal directly with the market, to understand market trends and to value their rich heritage and to be very proud of them- selves [7] 2.6.1.2 Fabindia ~ Brand Cr Founded in 1960 by John Bissell to market the diverse craft traditions of India, tion Fabindia started out as a company exporting home furnishings [8] Today, with a pan- India presence, Fabindia is the largest private platform for products that derive from traditional crafts and knowledge. A large proportion of these are sourced from villages across India where the company works closely with the artisans, providing various inputs including design, quality control, access to finance and raw materials.[8] Fabindia’s endeavor is to bring customers a choice of products — and lifestyle — that offers an alternative to the mass-produced, while creating sustainable livelihoods in the tural sector. Be.) fabiadia Figure 12 Fabindia advertisement posters Fabindia flagship stores are usually at handpicked heritage spots throughout India, thus creating the maximum user experience for the customers. One such example is the Fabindia Mumbai flagship store at Kalaghoda Fort. The store is in an old colonial building which was built in 1850’s, The place was redesigned by SJK Architects to meet the stores requirements and keeping the essence of the colonial structure. [9]Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Chapter 2 Figure 13 Fabindia- Mumbai Kataghod 2.6.1.3 Grassroot by Anita Dongre Grassroot by Anita Dongre is a sustainable luxury brand born to revive, sustain and ‘empower India's crafts and artisans. They translate the skills of rural artisans into design for the globetrotting woman and showease the handcrafted traditions of India in their contemporary collections, [10] Figure 14 Anita Dongre and her designs ‘The brand employs rural weavers, especially women, to weave custom material. ‘This direct connection between the designers and weavers has resulted in an amazing collection of affordable and stylish fashion that keeps changing with every new seasonIntegrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Chapter 2 Grassroot is an initiative by her to revive India’s dying craft, sustaining livelihoods in rural villages and empowering women through a means to financial independence. The materials produced are eco-friendly and cruelty free. The designer and her group travel throughout India looking for artisans to weave custom made materials and design, This has resulted in improved opportunities for the artisan especially in parts of Gujarat and Rajasthan, Figure 15 Grasroot designs 2.6.1.4 Chia Maki Intervention Gallery Ganga Maki is resting in the mango grove in the foot-hill of Himalayas, 6kms ‘east from Dehradun airport. It is a part of Ganga Maki workshop, where yams are dyed naturally and hand woven, garments are made, and materials are home grown as much as possible under the guidance of Chiaki Maki, the textile designer from Japan. The endeavor of the Studio is to embody and cultivate this cyclical relationship between ‘work and life, the sun and the moon — bringing together the past, present and future.{11] Figure 16 Chia Maki and her studioIntegrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Chapter 2 Figure 17 Chia Maki Products ‘The designer recently decided to build a studio and gallery set up to incorporate the weavers’ maximum into her designs. Her studio includes designing and weaving spaces. This has resulted in the production of amazing designer wear by the weavers themselves at a much faster rate than collaborating through other means with them. [11] 2.6.2 Key lessons learned ‘* We understand from The Handloom School in Maheshwar that for bringing more trained youths into the industry, an institution for the same purpose can be built. This results in more employees which would result in more return ‘* From Fabindia, we lear the important lesson of brand creation and the role of fine architecture in it, The brand has been able to market these local products to high end customers by providing luxury stores and brand-new designs. © From Grassroots, we understand that through designer weaver integration we can bring a global voice to the work of these weavers. The only factor missing in this case study is an infrastructure union which is addressed in the next case study. © Through Ganga Maki Studio, we see the perfect example of how a designer studio built by keeping both the designers and weavers in mind can entirely ‘change the way a product is made. So, from the understanding of the issues and the above-mentioned case studies, we understand that by creating a space that * The weavers can get better wages by eliminating middle men from the process.Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Chapter 2 ‘© The weavers can produce better designs by the integration of designers into the process. © The overall speed of the industry can be improved by testing out new technology on the process, + The industry can be made more integrated by creating a single space for all this, thus making implementation and change much easier and faster. 2.6.3 Solution ‘The idea is to create a single space for all the different activities thus reducing fragmentation and creating opportunities for research and testing, This will in turn help the industry apply more technologies and new age designs into the production process ‘The ultimate goal is to help the industry survive in the fast-changing world 20Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram PART 2 [This part contains the design brief and the data collection and analysis required specifically for the design development ] N. Neha, Thesis, B Arch, Department of Architecture and Planning, NITC 21Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Chapter 3 CHAPTER 3 PROJECT SYNOPSIS 3.1 Aim ‘The aim is to design a space that will be a culmination of activities for the Handloom Industry to be used as a teaching, production, marketing and tourist destination 3.2 Objectives and goals Objective Goals To study the history, different processes and present condition of the handloom industry in Kerala, particularly ‘Trivandrum To design a formal space for the weavers, artisans and government offices related to handloom, to practice, produce, teach and market the produets. To understand the trends in the handloom industry and identify the problems that can be addressed through this project To facilitate the collectivization of the production and other activities in the handloom industry to increase efficiency. To design a space that will be the pride of the Thiruvananthapuram Handloom Society and acts as a sorted destination for world class designers and textile enthusiasts. To provide a platform for the collaboration of the weavers and designers directly and thus eliminating the need for middle-men To design an annex campus for Indian Institute of Handloom Technology in Trivandrum with facilities for teaching and research in textile industry 3.3 Design Methodology To aid in the dissemination of information about the new developments in the handloom industry and technical growth “The steps taken to complete the design process is as the following flowchart- 22Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Chapter 3 INTEGRATED HAND LOOM CENTER ¥ Formulating aim and objectives Case study € > na cotton Production Unit Designer Unit Production Unit ‘Other area ~Chatiyar Sweat | | - The hand loom School Process Building ules Balaramapuram| Maheshwar Spatial Quay Aca required -Payatuvila] | | - Ganga Maki Textile Area requirement cooperative society] | | Studio TExlibiion space] ~—[ Academie Unit - Swgaalaya.) | - NIFT Kannur Handicrat Center| | = 11H Campus v Comparative analysis of data collected Fomnutation of v program flow v Proparation of area statement Site zoning and concept Conceptual Development Preparation of Dew v tification v iu v Mf and Site anal ual design development massing y of Master Plan led design drawings vy Final 3d Renders Figure 18 Design Methodology 23Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Chapter 3 3.4 Design Principles Pride of the place “The space designed should be an iconic campus for the industry and change the way people think of the industry. In turn it would positively affect the face of the industry. Experience ‘The experience created by the space should be an inspiring and uplifting space for the designers and weavers and aid in the creation of new products and designs Integration ‘The space is supposed to integrate the needs of all its stake holders and users for maximum outcome for the industry Architecture ‘The planning and detailing should be in accordance with the spirit of the place and the spatial quality necessary for weavers. 3.5 Scope ‘The growth of the handloom industry has drastically reduced due to lack of infrastructure and organization for the control and production of products. With the proposal of the right infrastructure and program, the disappearing industry can be revived, 3.6 Limitations ‘The retail of handloom products, especially the handloom saree with zari is mostly done in their area, Therefore, retail cannot be included as a by the Chaliyar communi program in the design brief. 3.7 Principle activities and user groups To achieve integration, the different activities that are to be included in the project are production, teaching, administration and exhibition, Hence the main stakeholders of the place will be the weavers, government, design students and designers. 24,Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Chapter 3 HHT Students Academic Program Design Interns Faculty z Weavers & ]J| Production Program z and Designer z Intervention 3 Other employees Directorate of Handloom dminisraionand | Marketing Government Marketing Group Public Exibition Viewers Figure 19 User Group of the Program ‘The space will not only cater to the weavers that will be working in the center, but also to the weavers from around who can use the space to purchase yarn and zari, sell their products to the government and use the designer collaboration opportunities. Annual or bi-annual exhibition can be held at the center for the public to come and experience the new designs and developments in the industry. This will also provide ‘opportunities for upcoming designers to showcase their products. 25Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Chapter 4 CHAPTER 4 CASE STUDY ‘This chapter explains the different case studies that was studied to help with the design process. As there is no single space that can be studied for this project, the case studies are divided into four categories — Production unit, Academic Unit, Exhibition unit and designer unit 4.1 Understanding Production Unit In order to design spaces for handloom weaving industry, the process and its subsequent spaces should be thoroughly understood. For this purpose, two different types of handloom production organizations are studied- the Chaliyar street which is a traditional small-scale industry and Payattuvila Cooperative society which is a more modern small-scale industry. 4.1.1 Chaliyar Street, Balaramapuram ‘The Chaliyar street in Balaramapuram is a historically renowned street for weaving, ‘The history of the place was discussed in Chapter 2 seetion 2.4.1 4.1.1.1 Location ‘The street is in a town called Balaramapuram in Thiruvananthapuram, Kerala, India. It is a 13-acre land completely occupied by the Chaliyar community. The street is very close to the town center and hence an apt position for retail of handloom products. The main entry is from the State Highway and expects a lot of traffic from this side. The ‘community have their own space for marriages and cremation. igure 20 Location of Balaramapuram N. Neha, Thesis, B Arch, Department of Architecture and Planning. NITC 26Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Chapter 4 4.1.1.2 Understanding the site ‘The street consists of three temples, and the main temple is situated on the Single street ‘This is the also the main commercial street. The people are primarily Tamilians and follow their traditions. There are four streets ~ Single, Double, new and Vinayagar street. The double street and the single street are the oldest. Single street was used for retails and double street for weaving activities 1. Bolaramapuram Fish Market 2.Single Street - the oldest street 3. Double Street: Appeared alter single street 4.New streot - The third street to be made 5, Vinayagar street. The newest straet Figure 21 Site Plan of Chaiyar street Mees ec, es... MI coy 1. This is the main area where weaving activities are presently concentrated. This is also the poorest part of the community, The families will have more than one way of living, usually smaller businesses elsewhere. 27Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Chapter 4 2. This is the most modem part of the community as well as the richest part of the place. The houses are modern flat roofed buildings and most of the occupants are government employees. Single street (Commercial sreet Figure 22 Chalyar street Before the place was modernized, most of the families were engaged in the handloom activities, Women took part in pre-weaving activities like winding and beaming while men were involved in weaving. The richer families were businessmen and took care of the retail of the products, They owned bigger houses and hence were able to accommodate retail in their own residence. The streets were designed in-order to accommodate pre-weaving activities like sizing. Vehicles were not allowed on the double street during the day time for the same. The houses had small verandahs called “thinnai” which is used as a relaxing space in the evening. During the temple festivals, the streets are completely covered and decorated. Figure 23 Section of double street 28Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Chapter 4 But over the past few years, as the returns of weaving have reduced, many families have opted out of the occupation. The younger generations have found alternate jobs that pay better. This has also led to the families tearing down their traditional houses and building new concrete ones in its place. Thus, the character of the place is slowly disappearing 4.1.13 Inference: ‘The most important takeaway from this case study is the traditional handloom weaving process and the spirit of the weaving spaces. The weavers are more productive and concentrated in spaces where there are less than 5 looms, This concept can be used for the design of production area. 4.1.2 Payattuvila Co-operative Society Payattuvila cooperative society is one of the biggest societies in the Trivandrum District. What is a Handloom cooperative society? Societies are usually owned by the master weavers who employ many other weavers under him for wages. They produce for market sale as well as government policies. The raw material is purchased from yarn banks owned by HANVEEV or HANTEX. 4.1.2.1 Location It is located at Payattuvila 6 km from Balaramapuram in Thiruvananthapuram district in Kerala, India ‘Anwippuram epee eanyrlagne Vengancor = oa ely VIZHINJAM: Post tice Payatvila otukal 209530078 pthiyannur Figure 24 Payattuvila cooperative society 29Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Chapter 4 4.1.2.2 Site plan ‘There are approximately 50 looms but only 13 trained weavers are employed there. The smaller works such as winding, spinning and beaming are done by women and younger men, Few handicapped people are employed to do smaller works like zari spinning that require lesser movement. The site is a L-acre land with a small house in the center of the plot. The surrounding land and the terrace of the house is used for the weaving production. 1, Area for Spinning 2. Area for Beaming 3. House used for storage 4, Shed for preparing dyes and silks 5. Shed for dyeing 6. Shed with 30 looms (17 functioning) 7. Shed with 6 pit looms and 4 Jacquard looms 8. Terrace of the house -16 looms Figute 25 Payatuvila ste plan 4.1.2.3 Working structure ‘They society produces up to $00 sarees a year. This is sold either to the retailers in Chaliyar street or to HANVEEV and HANTEX. The maximum sale is during the Onam season, The raw materials are sourced from the goverment through yarn banks at a subsidized rate. Near the entrance of the site, trained women will be working on winding and yarn inspection, Adjacent to this area, large machines for the process of beaming and multiple winding is kept. This is not used unless the order is huge and time bound. The storage of raw materials and finished products is inside the house. Behind the house, adjacent to the kitchen a small semi open area for dying of silk is present. The weavers shed, and the terrace of the house are the main weaving areas. A part of the terrace is also used to dry the materials after weaving. 30Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Chapter 4 ‘The space is very informal, unkept and cramped. The weavers do not have a comfortable working space. The working space is covered by blue tarpol which creates uncomfortable lighting in the weaving space. The dyeing process is done behind the houses in the work area and the fumes settled around the area. ‘The space is difficult to use during the monsoon season due to the lack of permanent infrastructure, The weaving process is not at its maximum efficiency due to the lack of space. ‘THE AREA REQUIRED FOR THE PRODUCTION OF 1 SAREE Production Process Type of space Area required Storage of raw material_| Room 9sqm Dyeing Semi-coveredarea___| 36sqm Drying dyed materail__| Semi-coveredarea__| 6sqm Winding Covered area 4sqm ‘Warping (single) Covered area 4sqm Mass warping Covered area 18 sqm Beaming Semi covered area 24sqm Setting up the loom Covered area 6 sqm Weaving Covered area 6 sqm Drying weaved saree | Open area 6sqm Packing and storage Covered dry area 9sqm Table 5 Area statement of Payatuvila Handloom Society Winding process going on Zari 31Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Chapter 4 Process of beaming Mass winding machine la Roods Fy shuts Figure 26 Payatuvita Co-operative society 4.1.2.3 Inference ‘The society has an ideal working structure, This can be adopted for the working of the design program, 32Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Chapter 4 4.2 Understanding Designer Intervention ‘One of the most important stake holder of the industry that can bring a massive upgrade to the handloom industry are the designers, Presently, in none of the weaving facilities, designer accommodations are provided. ‘This makes it difficult for them to collaborate with the weavers, The following case studies explore facilities that provide scopes for such intervention and how they have positively affected the industry 4.2.1 The Handloom School, Maheshwar ‘The Handloom School in Maheshwar is an initiative launched by Women weave in the year 2015 to help revive the handloom industry of the town, They program concentrates ‘on the younger generations, particularly youth between the age of 18 and 25. The program provides the students with training is weaving and pre-weaving activities ‘They are also encouraged to produce their own innovative designs. Both 4-month and I-month courses offered 4.2.1.1 The location ‘The Handloom School is in Maheshwar, which is a small town in Khargone district in the state of Madhya Pradesh famous for its forts and Maheshwar sarees. It lies in the banks of Narmada River. The site is little away from the center of the town. The main access to the site is from NH 38, Figure 27 The handloom Schoo!- location{ 12] 33Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram ‘Chapter 4 River Narmada Figute 28 The Handloom School Site plan{12} ‘The site overlooks the Narmada river. The main academic building is at the entrance of the site as it’s the most public accessed building. The dye house is located behind the academic building but detached. The more private areas such as the amphitheater and the residential block is towards the rear side of the side overlooking the river. ‘The main building has 4 weaving studios that is used as classrooms. These rooms are connected by street like corridors. The building is made with locally available burnt bricks and the aesthetics are inspired from the forts of Maheshwar. 34Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Chapter 4 st f A os Dyeing Unt a en ae Gil) ok CO — Ext to Residential Block Figure 29 Plan ofthe academic building ‘The building is carefully planned based on the amount of light necessary for the studios and the ambience it creates for the users. eaeal ‘Loom studios with North South ‘Addition of Admiistrtive Block as Crientation to avoid harsh iat Creating a cental treet ‘Anda relaced space Flow of movernent through strets anc courtyard create asense of cormmonity Figure 30 Design development of The Handloom Schoo! 35Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Chapter 4 Figure 31 Elevation ofthe Handloom School 2] Inference + The weaving studios should have openings only on the North and South walls to allow only diffused light to enter the space. Harsh light makes it had to weave. ‘The studios can be designed such as to imitate their local clusters, so the weavers feel at home in the studio, © Natural ventilation is must for the studios, also constant air flow is necessary to remove any thread particles from the air ‘+ The dyeing unit should be kept separately to avoid heating and harmful fumes fiom entering other spaces Administration — Classrooms —- Rest area dyeing unit -- Amphitheater—— Residential block 4.2.2 Ganga Maki Studio, Uttarakhand ‘The Ganga Maki Textile Studio in Uttarakhand is a collaborative project undertaken by the Maki Textile Studio from Japan and commissioned to one of India’s leading architecture firms, Studio Mumbai, Beautifully built, innovative in design and sensitive to the human condition, this project is a good example of progressive craft industry solutions. The 1300 sq. m complex to 4 years to complete. It was designed by architect Jain and the time was used to carefully design and source local materials. ‘The studio is a venture by a leading Japanese textile designer, Chia Maki and entrepreneur Rakesh Singh, The site consists of 4 L-Shaped designer studios, a guest house, a small exhibition space, dye house and a canteen, The complex is completely hand built and made of only locally available materials.[13] 36Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram ‘Chapter 4 ‘The majority is built with bricks and plastered with lime. The floors are paved with stones, The studio is built with a bamboo frame work and plastered with mud mixed with dung. The areas are landscaped with local plants. The roof of the gallery is covered by translucent white marble, All the building work were done by local craftsmen after being trained by Swiss and Japanese artisans, \e «OA oe Figure 32 Site Plan of Ganga Maki Studio( 14] 37Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Chapter 4 Figure 33 Ganga Maki Studio- The raised platform is for women who knit threads etc. while men use looms on the area below that Figure 34 Ganga Maki Studio- This is the designer's studio. To create diffused light in the studio, semitransparent roofs with bamboo is made. 38Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Chapter 4 ‘weavers. The space is detached from theIntegrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Chapter 4 Inference + The studio design shows how to incorporate the designer and the weavers in the same space while giving importance to both. © The design is completely built taking into consideration the local environment of the weavers © The lighting of the space is diffused (optimum for weaving). Innovative roofing techniques are used for the building. © The space is centered on a courtyard thus giving an inclusive feeling to the people working in the studio, * The dye house is places separately to avoid the fumes and heating © Other amenities provided are canteen, guest house, gallery, administration room, stores, wash area. * The site contours are used for the design + Locally available materials are innovatively used for the building, © The studio provides space for 16 looms in 4 separate rooms to avoid over- crowding 4.3 Understanding Academic Block For providing opportunities to the upcoming generations, it is important to educate them of the technology presently used and provide opportunities to upgrade these technologies. The structure of HHT campus is studied to understand the spaces necessary and NIFT Kannur is studied to understand the area requirements of the space. 4.3.1 Indian Institute of Handloom Technology ‘The Indian Institutes of Handloom Technology are a group of government run public institutes of higher education in the handloom sector. There are six institutes in central sector and four in State sector. All IIHTs provide a three-year Diploma in Handloom and Textile Technology, The Varanasi and Salem campuses also offer a one and half year Post Diploma in Textile Processing, VISION " We at IIHT, Salem, will educate the students to become enlightened professionals to 40Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Chapter 4 lead the Textile Industry and the Society. We will provide individual attention and world class quality education in Handloom and Textile ‘Technology and inculcate the value of Character building”[15] MISSION ” Our mission is to cater high quality technical and managerial man power for the Handloom and Textile industry and to undertake research and development programs for its sustainable growth and maintain close liaison with the industry to enable it to face the changing technological and environmental global challenges” [15] IT Guwahait HT Jodhpur | ‘edie! IAT Kenn HT Solemn Figure 37 Indian Institute of Handloom Technologies Courses offered in the institute: For diploma of handloom technology -15 seats available ~6semester course\ For Post diploma of handloom technology -10 seats ~ 3 semesters Bachelors in Handloom Technology -50 seats -8 semesters Research opportunities - Any Facilities offered in the institute: Classrooms equipped with LCD and Computers - Faculty rooms ~ Weaving Labs with at least 20 looms -Dyeing and printing lab Textile testing lab -Computer Aided Textile Design Lab -Computer color matching lab -Computer lab with 75 computers = R & D lab for product developments - Library - Workshops - Display Halls -Administrative wing with administrative office and examination cell 41Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Chapter 4 4.3.2 National Institute of Fashion Technology, Kannur NIFT Kannur is in Dharamshala in Kannur district of Kerala. The campus is situated in 10 acres of land and was designed by Indigo Architects. Figure 38 - NIFT Kannur campus ‘The campus building changes from low rise to high rise gradually through radial increase in floors. The main facilities are located around a 40 m courtyard, Figure 39 NIFT Kannur Building Plans SEWNG MACHINEROOM PATTERN MAKING LAB 42Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Chapter 4 PARAMETER PRIMARY ANALYSIS NIFT KANNUR Parking Space car for every 200sq.m_1 car for every 300 sq.m brary 1.47 sq.m/person -5sq.m per person Material Library 1.7sq.m/person -3sq.m/person Auditorium s -7sq.m/person Cafeteria - 1.3 sq.m /person Classrooms 1.5sq.m/person 1.2sq.m/person Design Studio 3.75 sq.m/person 3.08q.m/person Pattern Making Lab 3.75sq.mm/person 4.5sq.mn/person Weaving Lab _ 6.0sq.m/person Textile Testing Lab _ 3.08q.m/person Dyeing & Printing 4.659.m/person 4.5sq.m/person CAD Lab _ 1L.65q.m/person Toilets = 1 for every 8 ‘Table 6- Area study for academic building Inference ‘The main takeaways from this case study are the characters of the different studios and classrooms necessary for the academic building 1. Textile testing laboratory Various tests are carried out on different types of textile fibers to determine strength and other properties. Max. Capacity: 15 Students. Approx. Area: 55 sq. Requirements: Tearing Tester, Per spirometer, Hot Air Oven, Shrinkage Scale, Count ‘Tester, Fabric Thickness Tester, Stiffness Tester 2. CAD Laboratory ‘This Lab is equipped with Computers and Software that help in computer aided fashion design. Max, Capacity: 30 Students Area Provided 60 Sq. 3. MAC Laboratory ‘This Lab also functions like CAD Lab except that the Systems used have higher specification and performance. 43Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Chapter 4 Max. Capacity: 30 Students Area Provided 60 Sq. 4. Surface dyeing and printing laboratory ‘This lab provides the student with the skills of adding aesthetic value to textile material and develops the sense of color. The equipment’s provided cover the range of chemical finishing lab processes such as scouring, bleaching, dyeing, printing etc. These labs. require an adjacent terrace or drying area. Max. Capacity: 30 Students Area Provided :124 Sq Requirements: Printing Machine, Absorbency Tester, Oscillating Dyeing Machine, Horizontal Paddle Mangle 5. Weaving laboratory ‘The Weaving laboratory contains hand weaving machines on which students have to work out various knitting pattems manually and produce a variety of handwoven products. Max. Capacity: 30 Area Provided: 124 sq. Requirements: Weaving looms. 4.4 Understanding Exhibition Space This di public, To understand how this can be done, the Kerala Handicraft village, Sargaalaya ign aims at opportunities to disseminate the working of the industry to the in Vadakara has been studied. The main aspects studied were how they channel the crowd during the annual exhibitions held. 4.4.1 Sargaalaya, Vadakara 4.4.1.1 About Sargaalaya Sargaalaya is a permanent exhibition set up tagged as an arts and crafts village. It was established in the year 2011. The organization provides provisions for tourists to visit and mingle with artisans and also place order as per their need. It is an initiative by the Department of Tourism, Government of Kerala and managed by ULCCS Lid. It was developed as a part of responsible tourism movement. The initiative is to promote traditional handicrafts of Kerala.[16]Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Chapter 4 =e View from entrance View from waterbody Emporium Handloom stall Road and parking Figure 40 Sargalaya ats and crafts village [16] 4.4.1.2 Concept of responsible tourism Responsible tourism was introduced in Cape Town Declaration of 2002. It aims at minimizing negative economic, environmental and social impact of tourism, It aims at uplifting local communities through tourism. It follows the “triple-bottom line concept” — economic responsibility, social responsibility and environmental responsibility [17] 4.4.1.3 Location and site Set in 20 acres of land on the banks of the Moorad River, Vadakara, it has 27 exhibition cottages, which employ more than 100 artisans. Apart from showcasing traditional handicrafts, they also have a Technology Development Center that provide training for craftsmen and encourage them to come up with new and innovative technology and produets.[16] ‘The site has craft cottages, an open-air theater, a semi-open auditorium, parking spaces, @ canteen and its adjacent dining hall, children’s park and a newly built guest accommodation center. The site was a quarry land and has a lake with cut rocks in the center, This is used as a part of landscaping near the entrance. The auditorium ‘overlooks the estuary. They have plan to add water boating facilities and expand the craft trail to a nearby island 45Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Chapter 4 Figure 41 - Sargaalaya ste plan 4.4.1.4 Project Analysis Site Zoning @ carerarna @ Administration —@ OPEN GROUND PARKING \UDITORIUM Figure 42 - Sargaslaya site zoning analysisIntegrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Chapter 4 Vehicle Movement and Parking ‘The parking provided is for around 20 two wheelers and 30 four wheelers. But this is not sufficient while considering the footfall of 2000. Hence, they are expanding parking to 110 now. There is no separate footpath for pedestrians The road provided is 7m wide providing two-way movement, Figure 43 Sargaalaya - Vehicle Movement and parking Built form analysis @ carraen RAFT COTTAGES CRAFT EMPORIUM @CRCULATION @routs @rexmie emporium More than 63 crafts are housed in the 27 craft cottages in the site, Each cottage is $x3 m. In some cases, the cottages are shared between two crafts. All these cottages are connected by open corridors, The present admin area is housed in the craft emporium, The guest house is being upgraded to admin block. ‘The cafeteria initially built could Figure 44 Ssspaalaya - Built form analysis, house only 50 people, They have a new temporary structure that can house more than 200 people. The eraft emporium and textile emporium houses crafts brought from craftsmen outside Sargaalaya, The design 47Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Chapter 4 is such that all rooms get ample light and ventilation. There are two toilet blocks on the site, one set for artisans and other for the visitors, Building Material and Construction ‘The complete project is built using cut exposed laterite blocks. To keep the traditional Kerala, feel sloping roof are used for all structures. These roof structures are built from metal framework with tin sheet on top to reduce heating inside the building. Mangalore tiles are added on top of it to further reduce the heating. Certain walls are plastered and given white accents to compliment the red 4.4.1.5 Inference From this project the following are the inference: Positives © The project is a new approach in the field of crafts. It aims at bringing the craftsmen directly into business and production and eliminating the middle-men © The craft cottages are well ventilated and well lit, Each craft cottages provides ‘enough space for each eraft (15 sq. m) ‘The project emphasizes on corridors that are open and taken in the maximum view of the water bodies around the building © The buildings are modelled based on traditional Kerala architecture and it can be felt as one moves through the buildings. Negatives Ample parking spaces are not provided © The first building one sees as they enter is the toilet block and this creates a negative image of the space. Also, only 3 toilets for females and 3 toilets for men provided for the artisans. This is not catering to the growing groups of artisans in the area. © The buildings added later such as extended cafeteria and the auditorium does not follow the aesthetics of the existing buildings 48Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Chapter 4 + The place does not provide stay facilities for the artisan or tourists. But the upcoming building has 8 air-conditioned rooms for the tourists. © The administration block is not well designed. There are no lounges, meeting rooms or record rooms. The staff find it difficult to manage them, Area statement * Area for one artisan to sell and produce (with loom) 5 x 3m - 15 sq.m Area for canteen of 200 people- 9 x 15 m - 135 sq.m * Area for auditorium of 2000 people - 12x 24 sq.m Present Admin area - 50 sq.m 49Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Chapter 5 CHAPTER 5 DATA COLLECTION AND COMPARATIVE ANALYSIS. 5.1 Data Collection ‘This chapter contains the information collected to understand the different processes in ‘weaving, the standards regarding design of spaces and comparative analysis between these standards and the information collected through the case studies. 5.1.1 Production Unit ‘The production unit consists of spaces that include the space for weaving and all its ancillary activities. To understand the necessary spaces, first the process must be studied, 5.1.1.1 Process Process sequence ‘The following image shows the different steps involved in producing a handloom product: - Drafting Beaming a packing twistin Purchase of raw materials ‘The first step is to purchase raw materials from the market a ‘This includes yarns, zari and dyed yarn (in some cases). As Kerala cannot naturally grow cotton, most of the yarn is = purchased from other states which are already processed into cotton threads. It is sold as rolls of thread. These threads are divided based on counts. The higher the count, the finer the threads. ‘Threads with count 6s and 10s are used for Upholstery, 20s for towels, 40s for kuavi mund and 1003 FOr ead sarees [18] Different qualities of threads are available. The zari is purchased from Surat and sold at the local markets. N. Neha, Thesis, B Arch, Department of Architecture and Planning, NITC 50Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Chapter 5 Dyeing It is the process of changing color of the yam to be used in the weaving process. In Kerala Handloom products, dyed yarn is used to create the border or sometimes small motifs throughout the sarees, For the process, a boiler, dye and water are necessary After the yarn is dyed, it is hung for drying in a semi shaded area. The water after dyeing is collected in a tank and purified using slaked lime. The purified water is then used for landscaping purposes or released into a nearby water body.[18] Winding ‘The yam is usually bought in hank form. To convert them into bobbins, winding is done, It is traditionally done manually using charkas. But presently itis mechanized using winding motors to speed up the process. The yam used for weft is wound into smaller bobbins and yarn for further process of warping is Figure 46 Winding process wound on larger bobbins [4] Warping It's the process of making thread of the required length by combining many threads together. The final product is called warp which forms the vertical length of the cloth. ‘The process can be done many ways. For very long threads, vertical sectional warping is done, A bobbin creel is used hold all the bobbins together. The Figue 47 Warping process warped threads are then taken for the next process. [4] ‘Sizing It is the process strengthening the warped threads so that it won't break during the process of weaving, ‘Natural adhesives like rice starch and gruel is used for the purpose. The traditional way is stretching out the Figure 48 Sizing process 5Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Chapter 5 warp along the length of the streets on a frame and using a sizing brush, the adhesives are applied on the warp. While stretching it is taken care that the threads are not entangled or very close to one another so that, they don’t stick together. [4] Beaming ‘The warp sheets after being dried, is transferred into huge rolls which is then mounted into the frame loom for the process of weaving. Beaming can also be done mechanically [4] Figure 49 Beaming process Drafting and twisting ‘The beamed thread is then mounted in the loom. It is passed through the heald of the loom as per the design of the product. This keeps the yarn parallel to one another.[4] Weaving Pit looms and frame looms are the most common looms used for weaving in Kerala, The frame is constructed using wood and bamboo to keep the structure light. The throw shuttle looms are used for mass production, For products with very intricate patterns, jacquard looms are used. Special punch Fieue 50 Weaving process cards are used for creating different designs. [4] Checking for defects ‘The finished products are carefully checked for defects such as double ends, snarls, knots and reed marks. It is then graded according to the number of defects [19] Drying, Packing and storing ‘The product is hung for drying in semi shaded areas. After completely drying, it is folded in a special manner and then packed in plastic wraps which is then stored in a dry space until transportation to the market. 52Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Chapter 5 5.1.1.2 Spatial Quality for Weavers ‘The weavers prefer to work in an environment with dispersed lighting. This is so that they are not straining their eyes. For very concentrated works they tend to light a bulb hanging from their looms. This is mainly used to looks for breakages or other defects while weaving, “The Indian Standard 3646-Part-II (1966) suggests that an illumination level of 200 lux should be maintained for weaving plain ‘grey’ cloth, provided day light is also available. In the absence of the latter, the standard should be inereased by one and a half times the mentioned value, which is to 300 lux, The Indian values are much too low in comparison to the IES (Illuminating Engineering Society, 1973) standard which has recommended an illumination level of 750 lux for the same type of cloth” [20] Also, the rooms should be well ventilated. Small thread particles tend to be present in air during the process of weaving. Cross ventilation clears the room of such particles, ‘The walls should be of a dull color to create the dispersed light effect, 5.1.1.3 Area Calculations ‘The area calculation is based on the standards given by ILO publications- Small Scale Weaving which gives details on the different types of looms that can be used and its efficiency [21] No calculate the total area necessary, first the number of looms required is calculated- Required Annual Production Number of looms = 7 Tworking hours * hourly production per loom ‘The weavers in Kerala are most accustomed to treadle operated looms and fly shuttle looms. As pit looms are not used anymore, for this project we shall consider the use of fly shuttle looms, The average hourly production per fly shuttle loom is 0.48m and 1,44 for treadle operated looms. The total number of annual working hours is 2080 hours And the required annual production necessary is taken as 5,00,000 m, The area required for both types of looms remains the same ~ 8.4 sq. m.[21] Substituting these values in the formula- 53Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Chapter 5 Case 1 — All fly shuttle looms: 500 looms will be necessary to produce required annual production Case 2 — All treadle operated looms: 160 looms will be necessary to produce required annual production Case 3 — 3 lakh meters by treadle looms and 2 lakh meters by fly shuttle looms: 100 fly shuttle looms and 200 fly shuttle looms. ‘The maximum production with minimum area used is in case 2, where 160 treadle looms are used for operation. Therefore, the total area required for the same is 1344 sq m According to the standards specified in the book, the total area required to produce | Jak m per year with 3000 working hours is 368 sq. m. ee Pe ee ee Zee ours, and Option No. 100000 m sear 8,000 wk hours On2 a [ oe 4 |* aa] 30 [308 a «foley» [= Table 7 Floor area requirement forthe production unit 21] Based on this data, to produce 5 lakh m, an area of 2000 sq. m is necessary. Hence, the production area activities will take an area between 1500 sq. m to 2500 sq. m 5.1.2 Standards As the site is in Kerala, the Kerala Municipality Building Rules are followed to get standards for parking, toilets and other standard spaces. The design would fall under the category Group B (educational), Group E (office), Group G2 (Small Industrial) and hostels would come under the category Group A2 (special residential) 34Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Chapter 5 5.1.2.1 Floor Area Ratio and plot coverage standards ‘The FAR for the project is taken as 2.5 and coverage as 35%. a Maximum Maximum Maximum ee eine es permissible | permissible FAR | permissible FAR ancy coverage | (without fees) _| (with additional fees) Special residential = 1 iS 65 25 4 2_|- Educational B 35 25 3 3 Office E 40 2 3 Small Industrial 5 4 a 60 25 3 Table 8 - Floor area aio and coverage standards 5.1.2.2 Off-street parking ‘The parking standards according to KMBR is as following- STNo ‘Occupancy ‘One parking space for every oF Fraction oF 12 rooms (with each room above 5 sq. meters and Group A2- Special uptol2 sq. meters carpet area) Residential, Lodging and | Note: - At the rate of one parking space for every Rooming Houses, Tourist | 30 sq. meters carpet area of dining space/20 seats homes and hostels, of dining accommodation shall be provided in Dormitories without any | addition to the above, in case of Special attached eating facility | Residential, Buildings attached with eating, facility.[22] Group B-Educational 2 | Higher educational 200 sq. meters of carpet area institutes, 3 | Group E- 100 sq. meters of carpet area. Business/Office Building Group G2- Small 4 | industrial exceeding 100 | 200 sq. meters of carpet area. sq. meters of carpet area ‘Table 9 Off-street parking standards according to KMBR(22] 2.3 Set backs ‘The setbacks to be left for a campus with multiple buildings are~ All buildings up to 10 meters height under educational, medical/ hospital or office/ business or storage occupancy with more than 300 sq. meters built up area and shall have the minimum open (yards) spaces as shown below: - 55Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Chapter 5 (i) front yard-average 6 meters with minimum 4.5 meters, (ii) side yards-average 2 meters with minimum 1.5 meters (each side), (iii) rear yard-average 3 meters with minimum 1.5 meters Provided that where more than one building is proposed to be constructed in the same plot it shall suffice if the open spaces under this sub rule are provided from the plot boundaries with open yards (space) between two buildings not less than 1.5 meters for buildings up to 10 meters height and three meters exceeding that height. [22] 5.1.24 Sanitation facilities ‘The number of toilets to he provided in the different occupancies are~ Water closets [Urinals Wash Basin Bath T per 200 males or part 1 for every 200 ‘Auditorium | thereofand | | 1 per 50 person | males and | for - per 100 | orpartthereof | every 200 females or part females thereof - 1 per 10 boys 1 per 10 boys 1 per 10 boys Besding | and perevery | !PEYE%E 25 | art per every | andl perevery 8 girls 10 girls 8 girls Tor every 25 males or Office and | thereofand | | 1 forevery 25 Preferably one mercantile foreveryis | PRSPD OF Pa | on each floor females or part Feo! thereof Table 10 - Standards for sanitation facilities according to KMBR 5.2 Compara e Analy To identify the most beneficial program flow that integrates the weavers well into the system, the different production systems studied in the case studies before has to be ‘compared and analyzed 5.2.1 Production Process Flow Chart ‘This part studies the advantages and disadvantages of production process in traditional and modern small-scale handloom industry. 56Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Chapter 5 5.2.1.1 Traditional Handloom Industry From Tamil Nadu Yorn Y > Dye House From Surat, Gujarat Local Market + Gold Zari HIV Dyed yarn or Silk Raw Materials Purchase Finished Products Processed Processed Yarn Yarn / Raw Materials 7 Processed Yarn { Packed Finished | Products| Products | = = Packed Homes, --———esucts_ Customers Hantex Figwe5t rss Flow Chr rons Sait Key Points cons Fey Points pros 2 Rae ere eae + Weners are selemplayed, giving © Too many middlemen and material opportunities for designers t0 handling due to decentralization of collaborate with them system Individualization of process minimizes scope for applying new technologies Below average working environments “The process happens inside the village itself reducing transportation cost Opportunities for household women to participate in the production Rich history for the site 57Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Chapter 5 5.2.1.2 Co-operative Society From Tamil Nadu From Surat, Gujarat Yarn Gold Zari Other raw materials Local Market |_____y] SOCIETY | -~ Goverment Owner Purchases v | ee ee ee] Bleaching, Dying Processed fg ———— Process Preparing fr weaving—Yain_} Processes Warping, Beaming, Winding Ready io >| weve Processed Yarn >} Weaving of the tea I Finished nnated prods Drying, Packing |q_product product and Qual Checking Packed PI product ¥ Sold in the wholesale market Figure 52 Process Flow Chart - Co-operative Society Key Points All the areas are categorized neatly into the different spaces necessary for the process. The spaces are very ill maintained, The lighting is very dim, and the looms are much cluttered, © The working environment is not apart for women, + The dyeing unit is not separated from the rest due to space constraints. 58Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Chapter 5 5.3 Conclusion Based on the analysis of the different types of handloom process on both traditional ‘community level and modern society level, a new program is made taking the advantageous points from both these processes ‘A detailed area statement is also prepared based on the special study from case studies ‘This program and area statement will be the base of the design process, 59Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram ‘Chapter 6 CHAPTER 6 PROJECT BRIEF 6.1 Program Flow After studying the process flow of traditional small-scale handloom industry and modern small-scale handloom industry, and also understanding the different programs that need to be integrated into the space, the following program chart has been prepared. [Gowran Cosnsee] denen Figure 53 Final Program Flow 1N. Neha, Thesis, B Arch, Department of Architecture and Planning, NITC 60Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Chapter 6 6.2 Area Statement MAIN SUB- | REFERENCE | NO: OF | AREA | TOTAL ACTIVITIES ACTIVITIES AREA USERS, AREA Warping 34sq.mfor | Aiming | 754sq.m | 3770 1,00,00 m per | to make sq.m. year 5,00,000 Warp sizing | 68sq.mfor | mper 1,00,00 m per | year with year 160 Pim winding | 4 sq.m for | looms machines 1,00,00 m per year Looming 30 sq. m for PRODUCTION 1,00,00:m per UNIT sue Looms 588 sq. m for 1,00,00 m per year Cloth 30 sq. m for inspection | 1,00,00 m per on year 2 Other areas | 25% of the 190 sq.m | 1000 e that include | sum of above sq.m 2 offices, arcas 5 storage, < circulation 2 Classrooms | 1.5sq.mper | 75per | 110sq.m | 660 S person —_| classroom x6 sq.m = classrooms Weaving lab | 6sq.mper | For 75 450 person people sq.m Textile 3sq.mper | For 75 225 testing lab person people sq.m. Dyeingand | 4.3sq.mper | For 75 340 ut Printing person people sq.m CAD Lab 1.5 sq.m per | For 75 110 person people sq.m Design 3.5sq.mper | For75 | 2design | 520 Studio person people | studios | sq.m Library 1.5 sq.mper | For 75 110 person people sq.m Faculty and | 12sq.m per | For 15 180 research person people sq.m students apainsrration Hanveev angi 130 Office sq.m 61SUPPORTING ACTIVITIES ALLIED. Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Chapter 6 Hantex 30 sq.m Office Hombill 20 sq.m Office Office of the | 50sq.m Directorate Weavers 15sq.mper | For 20 300 Service person people sq.m Center Reception 10 sq.m 220 VIP Lounge 20 sq.m sq.m Conference | 100 sq.m Room Presentation | 30sq.m Room Record 30 sq.m Section Staff Rest | 30 sq.m Area GALLERY Tsq.m per | For 200 200 person people sq.m INFORMATION Employing 2 15 5q. CENTER people at a m time OUTLET 30 sq m HOSTEL, For 300 7000 people sq.m ‘AUDITORIUM For 1000 700 people sq.m GUEST HOUSE For 5 500 people at sq.m atime PARKING T parking per | 15sq.m | 470 | 2250 200 sq.m per Parking | sq.m person CAFETERIA 13sq.m per | For 500 650 person people sq.m SECURITY 15 sq. m TOTAL 30,000 sq. m+ 2250 sq.m - 62Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Chapter 6 6.3 Conclusion Based on the area calculations, a total of 30,000 sq. m will be the built-up area. 63Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram PART 3 [This part explains site analysis and design process. The final design outcome is also detailed out in this part] N. Neha, Thesis, B Arch, Department of Architecture and Planning, NITC 64Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Chapter 7 CHAPTER 7 SITE ANALYSIS This chapter gives a detailed look into the site chosen and its aspects. The analysis is used to arrive at a site zoning 7.1 Location ‘The site is 20.5 acres and located at Kanyakumari - Pazhaya Uchakkada Rd, Uchakkada, Kulathoor, Kerala ,695506 in India avanaayita. 9, ea Figure 54 Site Location Map 7.1.1 Ownership ‘The site belongs to the Neyyantinkara Power loom corporation. The site in the year 2002 was being used for small vegetable cultivation. Later a power loom plant was proposed here for up gradation of the surrounding area, But it was terminated due to fund issues, Presently the site remains unutilized 7.1.2 Site Accessib Trivandrum Uchakkada Junctior Trivandrum Central International Airport Bus Stand - Local a Railway Station 35Km 1Km 30Km ity 1N. Neha, Thesis, B Arch, Department of Architecture and Planning, NITC 65,Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram ‘Chapter 7 7.1.3 Catchment Area ‘The site is easily accessible from all major handloom co-operative society. The main catchment area is the ones marked in the map. These are semi-urban centers with good transportation connections and other facilities. ‘The site is also near to Poovar Beach which is a major tourist attraction. As tourists are one of the user groups of the project, this is an added advantage From the map below, we see that most of the co-operative societies lie in a radius of 15 km fiom the site, Also, the site is 12 km away from Balaramapuram, the main retail center of the Kerala saree. The city and government offices are further away at 30 kms from the site Figure 55 Site user group catchment area.Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Ed Figure 56 Plan of site surroundings Figure 57 Photos ofthe site 7.1.5 Feasibility Chapter 7 Surrounding Land Type The surrounding land use comprises mostly of mixed use and residential use. The areas near the site boundary are largely vacant and covered in vegetation, General feedback to the Project ‘The surrounding region have positive feed backs for the project as the surroundings will benefit from the presence of such an institution in the area Public Amenities Nearby ‘There are banks, hospitals and bus stands nearby. ‘The site is in close proximity to all the major co-operative society in the Trivandrum District and also a major tourist spot Poovar Beach. It is also one of the biggest parcels of land owned by the Neyyatinkara Power loom Corporation making it apt for a project proposal. The site is presently unused and hence such a project proposal will benefit for the site itself and its surroundings 67Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Chapter 7 7.2 Site Drawings 7.3 Site over the years ‘The site was used for vegetable cultivation back in 2002, and hence the terraced contours. After the site had been taken over by the government, it was left unused mostly and so short vegetation grew and covered the site 2005 2007 on 207 igure 60 Site aver the years 68Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Chapter 7 7.4 Site regulations ‘The site constraints are according to the Kerala Municipality Building Rules. The project belongs to two categories- institutional and industrial reso] fe | Baan aa . = oF swortnasny | won tin gn | Ga Sa) Figure 61 Site Constraints 7.5 Climate 7.5.1 Macro- climate ‘Trivandrum has a tropical humid climate, The hottest months are March, April and May. The monsoon season is from June to September and the average rainfall received by the district is 1500 mm per annum. ac = Maxton ne Sinem 20% sec. aoe. mec. moe. en Feb Mor Aer Mayu Ju Auge Aveogerin ard max peur in Tiara Cepriaht © 2086 wv. westersrilimaczm Figure 62 Average minimum and maximum temperature in Trivandrum 1 Roinydys Jon Feb Mar A May lun ull Sept Nye ‘reopen day snap in Tarr, Indln_Copyraht © 2046 vr. wmatheredeimalcm Figure 63 Average rainy days in TrivandrumIntegrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Chapter 7 7.5.2 Miero- climate 75.2.1 Sun path analysis AS the site lies on the northern hemisphere, the ‘maximum heating is from the southern and westem side, The hottest time of the day is afternoon (from 12am to 3pm), March, April and ‘may are the hottest months in a year. ‘The longest day 21 march 10 am, 21 march 12 pm 21 march 2.25 pm 21 march 4 pm 21 June 12 pm 21 dec 12 pm Figure 65 Sun Path Analyses on 3D Model Inference The harsh lighting is during the time 10 am to 3 pm on the east and west walls, which can be shaded using large over hangs. * Open spaces should be shaded either by vegetation or by light material to reduce heating during afternoon sun.Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram © All the studios must have diffused sunlight Chapter 7 * Semi-shaded areas necessary to be included in the plan to be used for drying weaved and dyed material, © Pedestrian paths must be tree Lined to protect from the sun © The peak of summer is during the months March, April, May and sun is over head the site at noon during these months. © Living accommodations must be oriented such that shorter wall faces the sun side, that is the west side and east side. © The dye house must be positioned such that the fumes are blown away fiom other buildings on site 7.6 SWOT Analysis ‘STRENGTH © No present uses of the site. ‘© Ownership by government. © Good view into the site. © Thick vegetation on site WEAKNESS Narrow entry into the site. Sudden deep contours Far away from the city center ‘OPPORTUNITY © Site near handloom societies and tourist spot © Large flat contours that can be used for buildings © Development of the surrounding, area due to the project THREAT Movement of vehicles on the sudden contours Not abutting a main road Water logging in certain parts of the site 7.7Grid Analysis ‘The site is divided into a grid of 20 m by 20m to analyze the different aspects of the site, This analysis is used arrive at a site zoning 1Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Chapter 7 7.7.1 Site Drainage and vegetation (© Catcher arco @ Permunert Vogl Figure 66 Grid Analyses Site Drainage ‘The lowest contour on the site acts as catchment area for the site and the surrounding ‘These low contours, due to the presence of moisture also has wide variety of plants ‘growing. The site also has a few teak trees that cannot be cut down, 7.7.2 Slope Analysis Ok OKO OSE mk Figure 67 Grid Analyses - Slope Analysis: ‘The site is terraced due to its previous use for vegetable cultivation. The lighter color shows the areas that can be built on without any cutting and filling of contours.Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Chapter 7 7.7.3 Site Views Figure 68 Grid Analyses Site views “The sites lie lower to the road level. So, from the road level, one can see the catchment area, From inside the site, the arrows on the image show the viewpoints. TA Si ite Activity and Circulation Zoning Figure 69 Grid Analyses - Site Privacy ‘Based on the distance from the entrance, the site is divided into three zones. BIntegrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Chapter 7 Service vehicle eniry Public pedestrians Private pedestrians Figure 70 Grid Analyses - Site Access ‘The different types of circulations into the site based on the different users is analyzed to find the best possible site circulation Color | Type or Characteristics Design Elements Space Public | Closest to the entry, narrow | Eniry gate, Security cabin, area lesser vegetation pedestrian entries, parking, view point to pavilion Green Zone | Lowest contours, marshy | Gardens, semi open areas || land, dense vegetation, micro | and entrances into the climate buildings Semi-Public | Large buildable land, not | Administration, production Zone dense vegetation, not very | zone and academic zone close to the entrance Service | Directly accessible from | Loading and unloading zone, || Zone _| service lane, remote nook, flat truck parking area Private | Farthest from entrance, not | Dormitories, guest house, Zone easy access, smaller flat. | dye house, designer studio contours, 4Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram ‘Chapter 7 7.9 Site Zoning Figure 71 Grid Analyses overlapped By overlapping all the different grid analyses, possible areas of built up and its different uses ean be identified 7.9.1 Zoning Strategies 1. Extent of access into the site for different user groups- Public Core users Around the clock users The visitors, the ‘The weavers and The students may weavers from other administrators be from other societies, coming to —_—_working there, the places as it is a na- buy yarn and sell faculty and stu- fional institute and their products. dents so hostel facilities are provided. Minimum > Average t Maximum, 5 Figure 72 Extont of access into the site for different user groups 5Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Chapter 7 1, Inter-relation of activities Figure 73 Interrelation of activites 7.10 Conclusion ‘The following site zoning is arrived based on the site analysis so far. This is based on the distance from the entrance, the privacy levels necessary for different activities and the inter-relation between the different uses. Figure 74 Site Zoning 16Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Chapter 8 CHAPTER 8 DESIGN ‘The design of a space always starts with an idea. This is then developed through many trial and errors, After trying different permutation and combination of space arrangement, structure and plans, finally we arrive at the most optimum design to achieve the objectives and goals discussed before, This chapter looks at the different ideas used for the design and the final design outcome. 8.1 Conceptual Ideas ‘After understanding of the site and arriving at the basic zoning, these are the conceptual ideas that help create the design Master Plan -Street Concept ‘The movement of vehicles on the site is a challenging problem to solve due to the terraced contours. Hence, the vehicular movement is based on Chaliyar street arrangement where the central temple structure acts as ‘a roundabout. In the figure here, the red structure is the temple. We can see that the vehicles move around and spread into the direction of intent. Massing Concept- Temple and the houses While moving along a straight narrow road, the presence of an anchor point at the end channels the movement to that central point. In the Chaliyar street, as ‘one enters from the state highway, the central position of the temple acts as the anchor point. The same concept can be used in the design to channelize the visitors to ‘one single point. Figure 76 Massing concept N. Neha, Thesis, B Arch, Department of Architecture and Planning. NITC 7Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Weaving Spaces ‘The weaving should not feel like a big factory space Hence the production units were designed based on traditional houses in Chaliyar street. While the men weave in small weaving huts, the women sit on a raised verandah and do pre-weaving activities like spinning and winding, Creating pocket spaces As for the academic spaces and informal activities in the campus, small pocket spaces can be provided in the landscaped area behind the buildings (like the backyard in the houses in Chaliyar street) and green park spaces in the lower contour pockets. These will act as collection spaces for the users. The canteen, exhibition spaces and student informal space can be in such areas, 8.3 Design Development ‘Site Contours Chapter 8 * = Figure 77- Production unit concept Figure 78- Informal space concept ‘This is an image of the actual site contours. The marked area are the contours that will undergo major cutting and filling. The contours at the entrance of the site has to be levelled to accommodate the 1:12 slope roads leading into the site. Conourobe ct 7 4 Fe — A Cntr tha ella Figure 79 Original ste contours 78Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Chapter 8 tours after site development After the modifications of the site, we get a 1:12 entry road into the site, a major flat land portion for the main building and the 8m dip can be used to make a basement parking to be used during traffic surge cating and filing dontours lore ft lard i erected fo ‘ecomodle the major uldings This gop it 8 m deep ‘nd i an at space fr 3 floored parking src The slopes hove been cut ond filled to create @ 1:10 slope for ‘bela an pedestrian movement Figure 80 Site contours afer site development Initial Massing ‘The initial massing idea was to create a stepped building to create the necessary height in the center and connect different contours through building masses. This massing did not for creating spaces with enough natural light and necessary privacy. The min building withthe concept ot he mong from ‘Chale see The center hero be the flat buling tron the Chalo set dee tothe lenge gop inthe cater Aloo thera ao lock of onchor poi. ‘Figure 81 Initial massing idea nDIntegrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram ‘Chapter 8 Conceptual Massing After the previous massing, a new approach was adopted. By creating the same kind of elevation as made by the different sized houses on either side of the temple in Chaliyar street, the required movement of vehicles and pedestrians were achieved Main bling acting ate tongs! ul wih prolcton beldog bailing mimic he terse ich oct or el anchor ing he fo aro path, The long fo lhe oad ee thw ow Rove on Figure 83 Final concoptual massing 80Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Chapter 8 8.5 Site Plan ‘The master plan is arrived at after considering the massing and site activities. Figure 84 Final ste plan with all building ground floor plans 81Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram ‘Chapter 8 8.5.1 Analysis ‘The following images show circulation of different user groups on the site ‘The red line in image 1 shows circulation into the site while the blue represents vehicle circulation exiting from the site. Image 2 shows circulation of visitors and workers throughout the site on a typical working day and image 3 shows circulation of visitors during exhibition times Figure 85 Masterplan circulation analysis 8.6 Building Design ‘The building designs have been done based on the usages it is integrating and keeping the concepts in mind. 8.6.1 Parking structure easement aasenen 2 aasenenr 3 igure 86 Basement parking plans 82Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram ‘Chapter 8 ‘The basement parking consists of 300 parking and this structure is to be used for parking to control surge in number of visitors during the exhibition times. During other times, the space can be used for planning exhibition structures and exhibits ‘8.6.2 Main Block- Academic, administration and production ‘The building includes the three main uses ~ academic, production and administration. ‘The right wing of the main building is used for production unit as it has the most area ‘The ground floor is used as parking for the employees. Above the parking the space for pre-weaving activities and post weaving activities are provided. The second floor also includes weaving activities. Figure 87 First oor plan of main building ‘The academic block is the left wing of the building. It ineludes presentation classroom spaces, weaving lab, textile testing lab, design studio, printing and dyeing lab, and academic office, The building has a lot of small back yard spaces that can be used by students for informal activities. At the starting of the left wing is the auditorium with a round the year open craft emporium in the first floor. The auditorium can accommodate 1000 people at a time. Just behind the auditorium is sanitation facilities for visitors during the exhibition time. The academic block creates a long south facing, facades 83Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram ‘Chapter 8 There are very less rooms given on this side and the fagade is covered in vertical louvres to provide shade from the south west heat. ge Figure 88 Second floorplan of main building ‘The administration building forms the central taller structure and it contains the main offices such as marketing offices, finance, record keeping, administration, director’s office, office for public relations, purchase office and yarn bank: 8.6.3 Canteen ‘The canteen is situated in the tree park which is an informal gathering space for the users. In order to mimic the straight trees in the surrounding, the structure is made of stee! circular supports affixed to thick concrete columns. The columns are covered in bamboo panels to make them look like tree trunks. ‘The metal structures for larges circles have additional support from thinner columns. ‘The space undemeath the canteen can be used as a semi shaded area ‘The circular structure is covered in thin metal members to create the effect of foliage. These members are hollow and hence light weight They are places at 30 cm between them. 84Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram ‘Chapter 8 Figure 89 Canteen plan and structure 6.4 Designer studio and dye house ‘The designer studio includes the workspace for three designers and a set of four ‘weavers for each of these designers. Adjacent to the studio is a small dye house that can be used by the designers to custom dye small amounts of yarn. Figure 90 Plan of designer studio and dye house 85Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Chapter 8 8.6.5 Hostel and Mess block and other stay facilities ‘The mess block includes a 150-capacity mess and its kitchen, 2 dormitories, gym, gathering hall and main hostel office. Beside this building, we have a 9-room capacity ‘guest house and the directors house with ear parking. Figure 91 Mess block and Guest house plan MESS BLOCKFRSTRLOCR, AND HOSTE. BLO GRGLND FLCOR WW {TM Figure 92 Mess block frst floor and hostel ground floor plan 86Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Chapter 8 we Figure 93 Mess block second floor and hostel block first floor plan “The hostel block has 150 rooms, accommodating 150 girls and 150 boys. It is a single block segregated at two wings with a large central courtyard. To access the mess block, the students can take the bridge connecting from hostel first floor to mess block second floor terrace. 87Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Chapter 9 CHAPTER 9 CONCLUSION ‘The aim of this project was to formulate an architectural solution for the fast-de: ing, handloom industry in the district of Thiruvananthapuram, Kerala. After understanding the shortcomings of the industry, it is realized that fragmentation of the industry is one ‘of the main issues that can be solved through architectural influence Hence, the design aim of the project was to integrate the different activities of the handloom industry in a single space for the betterment of the industry. The campus designed provides the scope for research studies in the field and implementing it first hand on the weavers to test the findings. In case of satisfactory report, the upgrade can be implemented throughout the weaving industry ‘The campus also provides opportunities for designers to stay in campus and collaborate with weavers and design students. The HHT annex campus provides students with ‘opportunities to study the trade first hand from experienced weavers of Balaramapuram, Most importantly, the project aims at providing a space for weavers to weave and sell their products directly to government marketing companies such as HANVEEV and HANTEX without the involvement of middlemen. This provides better income conditions for the weavers. The campus can be used to organize annual or bi-annual exhibitions to promote the industry. The design encompasses space to hold such events Hence through this campus, the working of the handloom industry can be altered to suit the best interest of its actual stake holders, which is the weavers. An established center for an industry attracts un-employed youths. This will ensure more employment ‘opportunities in the sector and thus increasing the importance of the industry ‘This in turn affects the mindset of people especially in Chaliyar street. When they realize that the industry is fast growing, they themselves would want to go back to producing handloom thus saving the weaving in the community from going extinct. N. Neha, Thesis, B Arch, Department of Architecture and Planning, NITC 88Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Chapter 10 CHAPTER 10 REFERENCE 10. Ml 12. 13. 4 15. T. A. Bhavani, Globalisation & Indian Small Scale Industries: Technology & Competitiveness (Ane Books Pvt Ltd, 2006) M. L. Narasaiah & C.. T. Krishna, Crisis of Handloom Industry (New Delhi Discovery Publishing House, 1999) A. §. Rajesh Shukla, K.A. Siddiqui, PK Roy, Prabir Kumar Ghosh, Rakesh Kumar Srivastava, Rachna Sharma, Preeti Kakkar, Om Prakash Sharma, K.J. Khan, Sandeep Mishra, Lokesh Dwivedi, Handloom Census of India 2009-10 (2010). T. Committee, Study & Documentation of Balaramapuram Sarees & Fine Cotton fabrics : The Pride of God ’ s Own Country: Handloom Sector in Kerala . (2009) World Heritage Encyclopedia, BALARAMAPURAM. World Heritage Encyclopedia, (n.d). https://doi org/WHEBNO0003 193036 ‘The Handloom School. (n.d.). http://www.thehandloomschool org. Fabindia. (n.d.). _ https://www fabindia. com/pages/50-years-of-fabindia/pgid~ 1124116.aspx, SIK Architects, Fabindia Store. (n.d_). https://www sjkarchitect com/fabindia. A. Dongre, Grassroot. (n.d.). https://www.anitadongregrassroot.com/. Ganga Maki, (n.d.). http://www gangamaki com/ganga-maki.html. SIK Architects, The Handloom School. SJK Architects, (nd). hutps://www sjkarchitect.com/the-handloom-school. ‘A. SRIVATHSAN, Ganga Maki Textile Studio by Studio Mumbai: “Craft is not a story of stagnation but of sensible emergence.” (nd.) |ttps:/vww.architectural-review.com/buildings/ganga-maki-textile-studio-by- studio-mumbai-cratt-is-not-a-story-of-stagnation-but-of-sensible- ‘emergence/10016442.article. Border and. ~—Fall, |= Ganga. Maki_—Studio, (nd) hitp://www.borderandfall com/studio-mumbai-ganga-maki-progressive-weaving- studio. IIHT Salem, TECHNOLOGY CITIZEN * CHARTER (nd) I-31 N. Neha, Thesis, B Arch, Department of Architecture and Planning, NITC 89Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Chapter 10 16, 17. 18, 19. 20. 21 22, Sargaalaya, About Sargaalaya, (n.¢.). http:/sargaalaya.in/shop/about-us/ government of K. Department of tourism, Responsible tourism, (nd.). hitps./Avww.ttkerala.com. D. Maheshan, G. M, & R. Nandhini, Chirakkal Weavers Society (2018). T. Committee, G. of India, & M. of Textiles, Hand loom Weaver (Frame Loom), Course Mater. under ISDS. S. R. Tripathi, $. K. Bhattacharya, P. Chattopadhya, & S. K. Kasityap, EVALUATION OF LIGHTING CONDITIONS IN RELATION TO VISUAL COMFORT IN WORKPLACES OF WEAVERS IN A TEXTILE MILL. (1989) 191-198 ILO & UNIDO, Smail scale weaving (ILO, FAO, 1983). Kmbr 1999 (1999). 90Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Index Index Balaramapuram, 10 Beaming, 49 Chaliyar Street, 10 Cooperative society, 28 Drafting, 49 Fabindia, 16 Ganga Maki, 18 Grassroot, 17 Mukkuvar, 11 N. Neha, Thesis, B Arch, Department of Architecture and Planning, NITC Payattuvila cooperative society, 28 Saliyas, 11 Sargaalaya, 41 Sizing, 48 ‘Small Scale Industries, 4 Vaniyar, 11 Warping, 48 Winding, 48 zari, 47 91Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram About the author About the author PCC @ CONTACTS ET Aovress 66 Hetet 1m an architect with great deat of interest in socio! MEDAYILVEED welfare architecture and urban design. | have just finshed BALARAMAPURAW, bacheior’scegree and looking forward to gain work experience in THIRUVANANTHAPURAM, KERALA, — thefield of earth architecture. {follow the path of moral architecture INDIA- 695501 ‘and always looking for opportunites to learn and grow. #5 EMAIL ME eee NEHANOWSHATH@GMAILCOM "5 201 © BACHELORES DEGREE | 8. ARCH National Institute of Technology, Calicut @ SOCIAL MEDIA Department of Architecture and Planning zoit-2013 © 12th Grade | CBSE FACEBOOK Christ Nagar Senior Secondary School FACEBOOK.COMINEHANOWSHATH 2001-2010 @ 10th Grade | CBSE INSTAGRAM Christ Nagar Senior Secondary School ‘TWITTER COM/NEHANOWSHATH EXPERIENCE AND ACHIEVEMENTS LINKEDIN 20170 INTERNSHIP AT HABITAT TECHNOLOGY LINKEDIN.COM/USERNAME Worked on multiple. school projects, hospitals, Fesidences and other civil projects GOOGLE+ 216 © TOP 100 ENTRIES - ANDC 2016 GOOGLE COM/+NEHAN The project VAS is a space settlement designed to sustain Ife after the end of the world sow SHORTLISTED ~ CONVENTION TROPHY ZONASA 2016 ‘The project NOVO looks at a vertical approach to waste ‘management in highly populated urban centres BEHANCE BEHANCE COMINEHANOWSHATH 92Integrated Handloom Center, Thiruvananthapuram Appendix 1 Appendix 1 This section contains the sheets presented during the jury N. Neha, Thesis, B Arch, Department of Architecture and Planning, NITC 3