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1600 – The 1764 – James
1765- JAMES
1513 modern spinning Hargreaves
1738 – Lewis make stocking
FIRST NEDDLE wheel spinning jenny
Paul draw roller. frame
1799 - Charles
Tennant discovers 1766 – Samuel
beaching powder Wise solves the
mechanization
MODREN TRENDS IN
1798 – The INDUSTRY IN ERA OF
Frenchman 1600-1799 1767 – John Kay
circular bearded
invents the
needle knitting
spinning frame.
machine.
1791 – The
Englishman
1793 – Samuel Dawson 1784 – Edmund 1779 – Samuel
1794 – EliWhitney Crompton
cotton gin. Slater of Belper warp knitting Cartwright
cotton spinning machine. power loom. spinning mule.
1600 – The 1806 – Pierre 1842 – John
1813 – William 1856 – William
modern spinning Jeandeau patents first sewing
Horrocks improves first synthetic dye.
wheel the first latch machine
the power loom
needle
1820 14665
NO.OF LOOMS
100000
1829 55500 55500
14665
2400
1833 100000
1803 1820 1829YEAR1833 1857
1857 250000
Number of Looms in UK
SOURCE: https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0960852496001137
OLD BASKET OLDEST NEDDLE FIRST MANUFATURE
BY BONE OLDEST FIBER OLDEST LOOM BY BASTET OF
FIBEBR SHOES
ADVANCEMENT IN OLD CLOTH BY FIBER FIRST SPINNING WOVEN TEXTILE BREDDING SHEEP
NEDDLES WHEEL
SOURCE: http://www.historyofclothing.com/
1920
1910 – Spiers invents the looms developed by
circular bed purl knitting George
machine.
% OF EXPORTS
70.00% 60.20%
56.60%
54.30%
Mauritius 56.60% 60.00%
50.00%
50.90%
48.70%
42.40%
40.00%
Sri Lanka 54.30% 30.00%
20.00%
10.00%
Dominican Republic 50.90% 0.00%
Nepal 48.70%
COUNTRIES
Tunisia 42.40%
SOURCE: https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0143720803000640
In 2002, textiles and apparel manufacturing
accounted for $400 billion in global exports .
That representing 6% of world trade and 8%
of world trade in manufactured goods.
In the early years of the 21st century, the
largest importing and exporting countries
were developed countries, including the
European Union, the United States, Canada
and Japan.
Here is the report of export of textile and clothing and its earning in $ millions.
WORLDWIDE 1990 2000 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008
WORLDCLOTHING 104354 157295 195541 202657 220367 240364 250198
150000
100000 108129
50000
SOURCE
https://www.google.com.pk/search?rlz=1C1PRFE_enPK79
2PK792&biw=1366&bih=662&tbm
1960 There was a rapid
In 1950 Textile 1970-71 there was growth in spinning
180units of textiles
industry was 113 textile units sector in 1980
2014:
New government has
The number of
done a major
units rose to 440
achievement which may
in1996-97
bring revolution in textile
sector PAKISTAN TEXTILE industry HISTORY
2013:
Export share
Textile millers and
become
workers were in
$10.5billion by
protest
2007
2012:
Pakistan’s $13.8 billion 2010 2009:
textile industries Textile exports Export share Textile industry is
struggling to survive a stood at $12.5 become $16 being hit hard due
critical shortage of billion from July billion to ongoing energy
energy to run its plants. 2010 to May 2011 crisis
SOURCE:
https://books.google.com.pk/books?hl=en&lr=&id=xQGwgJnCPZgC&oi=fnd&pg=PP1&dq=History+of+pakista
n+textile&ots=5D0ealRa
YEAR COTTON GARMENT TOWEL COTTON Chart Title
YARN
5000000
4500000
3500000
2004 8000 1200000 170000 1300000
3000000
0 2500000
0 1500000
1000000
2006 2800000 3100000 370000 1900000 500000
0 0
1999 2004 2005 2006 2007
SOURCE:
https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1002/(SICI)1097-4660(199812)73:4%3C323::AID-
JCTB976%3E3.0.CO;2-S
2008 2300000 2900000 2400000 2100000 Chart Title
7000000
SOURCE:
https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1002/(SICI)1097-4660(199812)73:4%3C323::AID-JCTB976%3E3.0.CO;2-
S
Chart Title
7000000
6000000
5000000
4000000
3000000
2000000
1000000
0
1999 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017
SOURCE:
https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1002/(SICI)1097-4660(199812)73:4%3C323::AID-
JCTB976%3E3.0.CO;2-S
ANNUAL PRODUCTION WITH
PAKISTAN GLOBAL
Global
Cotton
63% Cotton
Polyester
30% 26%
Polyester
51% Viscose
7%
Viscose Others
5% 16%
Others
2%
SOURCE :
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jenvman.2011.09.012
Technical textile
growth
Technical
Technical Textile
Textile 7%
14%
Home Textile
17%
Home Apparel
Textile 58%
28%
Apparel
76%
SOURCE :
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jenvman.2011.09.012
SOURCE:
https://books.google.com.pk/books?hl=en&lr=&id=xQGwgJnCPZgC&oi=fnd&pg=PP1&dq=Histor
y+of+pakistan+textile&ots=5D0ealRa
2015 Value of Shipments $76 Billion
for Textiles, Apparel, & Manufactured Fibers
$80
$75.5 $76.0
$74.2 $74.7
$75 $73.6
$71.0
$70
$66.9
$65
$60
2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015
Value for 313 Textile Mills, 314 Textile Product Mills, 315 Apparel, and 32522 Artifical & Synthetic Fibers and Filaments
SOURCE:
https://www.researchgate.net/profile/Aftab_Alam18/publication/258351787_Pakistan_textile
_industry_facing_new_challenges/links/0deec52808bf9271ff000000.pdf
Value of Shipments in $ Billions by Category
$8.2
$13.9 $30.7
314 Textile Product Mills
315 Apparel
$23.2
SOURCE :
https://www.researchgate.net/profile/Aftab_Alam18/publication/258351787_Pakistan_textile_ind
ustry_facing_new_challenges/links/0deec52808bf9271ff000000.pdf
Trend for PAKISTAN Exports of Fiber, Textiles, and Apparel in $ Billions
Total =
$30 $27.75 B
$23.7 $24.4 $23.7
$25 $22.4 $22.7
$19.7
$20
$16.6
$15
$10 $8.5
$5.8 $6.3 $5.7
$3.5 $4.5 $4.0
$5
$0
2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015
Textile & Apparel Cotton, Wool, & Other Fine Animal Hair
SOURCE:
https://www.researchgate.net/profile/Manuel_Figueiredo/publication/228447616_SWOT_Analysis
_of_Pakistan_Textile_Supply_Chain/links/0a85e5345564f47d47000000.pdf
CHALLENGES FACED BY THE READYMADE
APPAREL INDUSTRY OF PAKISTAN
COTTON SORTAGE
SOURCE: https://pakjas.com.pk/papers/1951.pdf
PRICE FLUCTUATION
➢ Particularly, yarn price fluctuation is badly hearting the export orders. Yarn price
fluctuation is so fast that on daily basis new rates are being announced
SOURCE:
https://pdfs.semanticscholar.org/d1e0/bff96316b4ecbe37bd52ed66e3983fe96dbd.pdf
LOAD SHEDDING
Pakistan is facing severe energy crises form last five years. There is shortage of
electricity, gas, petrol to run the service as well as manufacturing industry of the
Pakistan.
Continues load shedding of electricity and gas resulting in the low performance and
productivity of the factories.
SOURCE:
https://link.springer.com/chapter/10.1007%2F978-3-540-89853-5_48
25000
20000
15000
10000
5000
SOURCE:
https://link.springer.com/chapter/10.1007%2F978-3-540-89853-5_48
GAS SHORTAGE
The Sui Northern Gas Company Ltd (SNGPL) announced load shedding schedules
never met the expectation of the manufactures and also not strict on the schedule
being announced.
SOURCE:
https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S136403210800066X
NEW AND ADVANCE TECHNOLOGY
New and advance technology has resulted in competition around the world and
now efficiency and productivity are important factors for a nation.
Pakistan’s 80% apparel industry is SME using traditional methodologies and
machinery resulting in low performance of man and machines.
SOURCE:
https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S1364032113001330
COST OF PRODUCTION
SOURCE:
https://www.google.com.pk/search?rlz=1C1PRFE_enPK792PK792&ei=mdXgWo
HOW TO GET RID OF FROM THESE CRISES?
SOURCE:
https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S136403211300796X
PROCESSES OF TEXTILE MANUFACTURING
Fiber resources
Textile manufacturing begins with the
production or harvesting of raw fiber.
After collecting the fiber from
resources following steps should
adopted.
➢Yarn production
➢ Fabric production
➢ Wet process
➢ Garment Manufacturing
SOURCE:
https://www.sswm.info/sites/default/files/reference_attachments/ADEL%20et%20al%202004%
20Treatment%20of%20Textile%20Wastewater%20by%20Advanced%20Oxidation%2
FIBER
YARN FABRICATION
FABRIC PRODUCTION
WET PROCESSING
GARMENT
MANUFACTURING
SOURCE:
https://www.sswm.info/sites/default/files/reference_attachments/ADEL%20et%20al%2020
04%20Treatment%20of%20Textile%20Wastewater%20by%20Advanced%20Oxidation%2
YARN FABRICATION
Yarn fabrication is the process, which
converts raw fiber into yarn or thread.
ROW FIBER
OPENING/BL
ENDING
CLEANING
CARDING
V
V
COMBING
DRAWING
V
V
SPINNING
V
V
YARN
V
V
SOURCE: http://www.scielo.br/scielo.php?pid=S1517-
83822010000400004&script=sci_arttext&tlng=es
1-OPENING /BLENDING
SOURCE
https://scholar.google.com.pk/scholar?hl=en&as_sdt=0%2C5&
q=blending+machine&btnG
2-CLEANING
Cotton fiber must be cleaned to
remove foreign matter such as plant
parts, seed hulls, dirt, etc., from the
fibers.
SOURCE: https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1111/j.1478-4408.1993.tb01536.x
CARDING PROCESS
SOURCE:
WWW. CHEMICAL INSTRUMENT SIGMALDRIEH.COM
COMBING
Combing process serves to improve
the row material in production of
medium, medium to fine and fine
yarns.
SOURCE:
https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0166497201000025
PROCESS OF COMBING
➢ The combing machine, whose use is optional, to improve the yarn quality, is located in the spinning process between the
drawing frame and the flyer. Its goal is achieved by combing out the shorter fibers, thus increasing the effective fiber
length.
Source: https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0166497201000025
FUCTIONS OF COMBER
To eliminate pre-determine quantity of short fiber.
To eliminate remaining impurities.
To eliminate large proportion of naps.
To form a sliver of maximum possible evenness.
Source:
https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0166497201000025
DRAWING
The task of drawing process is to
improve evenness over short, medium
and especially long term level by
straightening and paralyzing the fiber.
In addition to this it also for blending
of different fibers (Blending of
Polyester / Cotton, Polyester / Viscose,
Polyester / Wool Etc.)
SOURCE:
1-www. Siemens .AG.2005.INSTRUMENTS. TEXTLE .com
2- https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007%2Fs
SPINNING
In this process rove is fed to drafting
arrangement, which further attenuate
to spin into final yarn.
The delivered stand of fine fiber from
the drafting arrangement, is
strengthened by inserting twist in it.
This twist is generated by the spindle,
which rotate at a higher speed.
SOURCE:
https://inis.iaea.org/search/search.aspx?orig_q=RN:41077948
PROCESS OF SPINNING MACHINE
SOURCE:
www. Siemens .AG.2005.INSTRUMENTS. TEXTLE .com
MAN MADE FIBERS
SOURCE:
http://krishikosh.egranth.ac.in/bitstream/1/2032005/1/40546.pdf
https://www.google.com.pk/search?rlz=1C1PRFE_enPK792PK792&biw
FABRIC PRODUCTION
SOURCE
https://www.google.com.pk/search?rlz=1C1PRFE_enPK792PK792&biw
https://patents.google.com/patent/US4574018A/en
WEAVING
Weaving is the most common method used for
producing fabrics.
The process is carried out of two sets of threads,
which interlaces lengthwise yarns (warp yarns)
with widthwise ones (weft or filling yarns).
To prevent the warp yarns from braking during
weaving, the warp threads are coated with a size
before weaving, to increase their tensile strength
and smoothness.
Natural starches are the most commonly used
sizes, although compounds such as polyvinyl
alcohol (PVA), resins, alkali-soluble cellulose
derivatives, and gelatin glue have been used.
The sizing compound is dried on the threads
and remains a part of the cloth until it is
removed in the subsequent processes.
Other chemicals, such as lubricants, agents, and
fillers, are often added to impart additional
properties to a fabric
Fig-15- A person is making waves of fibers
SOURCE:
https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S016041200400034
0
A MODLE OF WEAVING
SOURCE:
https://www.google.com.pk/search?q=WEAVING+IMAGING+ANIMATED&rlz=1C1PRFE_enPK792PK792
&sourc
KNITTING
Source : https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/09537287.2010.498577
KNITTING
Source:1- https://patents.google.com/patent/US4
2-https://www.google.com.pk/search?q=TUFTING+MACHINES&rlz=1C1PRFE_enPK792PK792&tbm
Fig-20- A animated view of process of tufting with tufter device 300-
Source: https://www.google.com.pk/search?q=TUFTING
WET PROCESSING
The fabric produced from the KNITTING
weaving or knitting is in rough FIBER
condition and is often termed 'grey'
fabric. BLEACHING
FINISHED
FIBER
DYEING
Dyeing is employed to give an all-over
shade to the fabric.
It basically involves diffusion of dye
molecules into the textile fabric, which
imparts the required color.
In the dyeing process these dye
particles quickly come into contact
with the surface of each fiber, form a
thin layer and diffuse into it
Fig-21- Mixing the purple 45 azoic dye into black dye
Source: https://patents.google.com/patent/US8870972B2/en
ACIDIC DYES
Mainly used on wool, silk and
polyamide fibers.
They give very bright colors, whose
fastness ranges from very poor
(allowing colors to run) to very good.
Source:https://www.emeraldinsight.com/doi/abs/10.1108/1463668
0410563016
ACID DYES
SOURCE
https://patents.google.com/patent/US6467898B2/en
DIFFERENT TYPE OF ACIDIC DYES
Source: https://www.google.com/search?q=colours+of+dyes&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved
BASIC DYE
Basic dyes are water soluble cationic
dyes .
These dyes consist of amino groups
(trialkyl amines , dialkyl amines ) and
are usually aniline dyes
Basic dyes produce bright shades on
textile materials
E.g. Methylene Blue
SOURCE:https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0043135402005
201
BASIC DYES
SOURCE:https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0043135402005201
DIRECT DYE
Direct dye, also called
Substantive Dye, any of a class of
colored, water-soluble
compounds that have an affinity
for fiber and are taken up directly,
such as the benzidine derivatives.
SOURCE:https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0143720805003797
DIRECT DYE
SOURCE:https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007%2Fs10971-008-
1819-8
DISPERSE DYE
Disperse dye is one kind of
organic substances which is free
of ionizing group.
Disperse dyes are less soluble in
water and used for dyeing
synthetic textile materials.
SOURCE:https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S030438940
4001980
DISPERSE DYE
SOURCE:https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1002/app.13062
REACTIVE DYE
Reactive dye is only class of dyes
which makes covalent bond with
the fiber and become part of it
Reactive dyes + Fiber = Reactive
dye-Fiber (Covalent bonding)
If the general structure of a
reactive dye is “R-B-X” then, R-B-X
+ Fiber = R-B-X-Fiber (Dyed fiber)
SOURCE:https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0143720803002572
REACTIVE DYE
Source:https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007%2Fs12257-007-0165-y
VAT DYE
Vat dyes are different from
reactive dyes, disperse dyes, basic
dyes, acid dyes or azoic color but
its application process is near
similar as sulphur dyes.
Vat dyes are used for coloring
cellulosic fiber specially cotton
fiber.
SOURCE:https://patents.google.com/patent/US2090511A/en
VAT DYES
SOURCE:http://www.journal.csj.jp/doi/abs/10.1246/bcsj.25.411
DISADVANTAGES AND HAZARD EFFECT OF DYES
SOURCE:https://www.google.com.pk/search?rlz=1C1PRFE_enPK792PK792&biw=1366&bih=61
3&tbm=isch&sa=1&ei=0MvqWviGDNC6ggfM7rPQBQ&q
PRINTING
Printing is a process by which
colored patterns are produced
on the fabric.
Unlike dyeing, it is usually only
carried out on prepared fabric
where it is applied to specific
areas to achieve a planned
design.
The color is applied to the
fabric and then treated with
Fig-25- A man printed the logo on T-shirt by using dye
steam, heat or chemicals to fix
the color on the fabric.
SOURCE:http://pubs.rsc.org/-
/content/articlehtml/2011/an/c0an00406e
PRINITING OF CLOTHES
SOURCE:https://www.google.com.pk/search?q=PRINTING+CLOTH&rlz=1C1PRFE_enPK792
PK792&source
GARMENT MANUFACTURING
Source:http://citeseerx.ist.psu.edu/viewdoc/download?doi=10.1.1.132.
7194&rep=rep1&type=pdf#page=141
Fig-29: The t-shirts with different colors
SOURCE:https://www.google.com.pk/search?q=GARMENTS&rlz=1C1PRFE_enPK792PK79
2&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved
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