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Print Minis

JAN 7, 2021 AT 9:35 PM

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to Paint Adrik - 3D Printed Miniature - Start to Finish

This tutorial has been written by Marc; he's a professional miniature painter that's part of the Print
Minis team. It's available for free on our Patreon page with the other two tutorials due out this
month locked to Patrons Only.

This tutorial focuses on painting Adrik, the second in command of our group of heroes from
January's DIESELPUNK COLLECTION. When asked to paint one of the characters for a tutorial, I
was immediately drawn to Adrik. His powerful pose, displaying a true sense of calculating
composure, really appealed to me. Besides, who doesn't want to paint a four barrelled gun? ;)

At the end of this guide you'll nd a full breakdown of the paints I've used, but during the tutorial,
I’ll just refer to them by colour name rather than the brand too. When mixing colours I’ll state how
many drops of each I’ve used and how many drops of water I’ve thinned the mixture with. This will
vary for you depending on the speci c paint brand you’re using, so take these ratios with a pinch
of salt.

Finally, we've placed the photo above and the steps that are demonstrated in that photo below. 

Let’s get started!

TIPS AND TRICKS

A great tip for painting miniatures is to start working on areas that are on the “inside” rst
(meaning those which are most recessed), and paint areas that are easier to reach afterwards. For
this reason, I started with the leather under armour and worked my way outwards, nishing with
the most exposed components (the gun, buckles, hair).

Throughout this project I used my favourite size 2 brush from Roublo .  It holds a lot of paint and
keeps a precise point for detail. We all have our favourite brush brand and type, so I simply
recommend using any brush you’re comfortable with. However, I will add that higher quality
brushes make the painting process easier and more enjoyable.

BEFORE YOU BEGIN

Make sure your miniature is clean and dry, and you’ve cleaned up any small support marks with a
scalpel. I mounted my model onto a simple base rather than the scenic base that comes with the
Print Minis collection so I didn’t have to worry about smudges. I’ll transfer him later on.

I primed the miniature using a black primer from Vallejo, but I’ve found that most acrylic paints
adhere very e ectively to resin printed miniatures.

PAINTING THE LEATHER

Start by blocking out both the body armour and the leather. It’s easier to block out the major
colours at the beginning because it means you're less likely to smudge on your more detailed

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work later on. You could also paint a foundation colour for the hair and skin at this point too, but
since this is a tutorial, I wanted to keep the photos as clear as possible.

Step 1

For the armour, I went with a Russian Green colour. Cover all the panels in a couple of coats until
you have a smooth, opaque nish. I used Ammo by Mig paint and I didn’t have to thin it since the
consistency is already quite thin, but depending on what you use, you might want to add a little
water.

For the leather, we’re going with brown. Take Brown Leather, mixing 3 drops with 1 drop of water.
Cover all of the leather areas with this and do several coats until you have an opaque nish.

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Step 2

We’re now going to start developing the leather, making it look aged and worn.

Mix 2 drops of Brown Leather with 2 drops of Dust Grey, and thin with 2 drops of water. Use this to
stipple on texture and edge highlight along the raised parts of the leather. Apply a few scratches.
The aim here is to not be overly neat. Worn leather has an uneven and broken surface.

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Step 3

Add two more drops of Dust Grey to the mix and keep developing the texture. Focus on the most
raised aspects, on the corners of the pouches and along the edges of the leather straps.

Step 4

Then take 3 drops of Bone White thinned with 1 drop of water and apply a nal highlight layer,
focusing on the highest points.

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Step 5

We now have leather with very high levels of contrast. I want to tone this down and tie the layers
together. To do this take 2 drops of Transparent Burnt Umber ink and thin with 2 drops of matte
medium (or water). In a controlled manner, glaze this over most of the leather. Apply additional
coats if you want to intensify the colour of the glaze.

PRO TIP

I love using inks to paint miniatures. They add excellent vibrancy and can really aid with creating a
smooth nish (they’re excellent when used through an airbrush too). To help control where the ink
goes, and to take o some of the gloss nish, I mix the inks with matte medium.

Also, mixing inks with a medium means you have instant contrast paints!

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Step 6

To add further depth to your leather e ect, mix 2 drops of Transparent Burnt Umber with 1 drop
of Carbon Black and thin with 3 drops of matte medium. Apply this into the recesses and the
undersides of objects, and carefully apply a thin glaze around the strapping. I applied a second
coat to the deepest recesses to deepen the shadows further.

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Step 7

Returning to the highlights, retouch and enhance any scratches you feel were toned down too far
using the glazes. The top of the pouches were my rst focus, as was along the edges of the
strapping. Use 3 drops of Bone White thinned with one drop of water to go over the scratches.
Use pure white paint for a few dots and scratches to add more contrast.

Step 8

To nish the leather mix 3 drops of Yellow Medium Azo ink with 1 drop of Transparent Burnt
Umber ink and thin 3 drops of matte medium. Apply this carefully over some of the higher
aspects, such as the left leg thigh and upper half of the pouches to add warmth.

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can add additional tonal variation by glazing on additional colours. Dark greens and purples
work well for adding tonal depth to the shadows of leather items.

PAINTING THE ARMOUR

We’re going to start by adding texture and highlights to the armour, after which we will develop
the shadows.

The aim is not only to add depth to the armour, but also texture. Adrik is a battle hardened
veteran, and his armour should represent that. As a result, for the rst highlight we’re going to use
the stippling technique.

Step 9

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2 drops of Russian Shine with 2 drops of Slime Green and thin with 1 drop of water. The Slime
Green adds a little warmth to the mix. As with the leather, stipple on the highlights and texture,
focusing on the edges and raised aspects of the armour.

Step 10

The next step is to develop the texture further. This time mix 2 drops of Russian Shine with 2
drops of Bone White, and thin with 1 drop of water. As before, stipple on this mix, again focusing
on the high points, but remembering to create additional scratches and marks on other parts of
the armour too. Remember to try and be random with this technique, to create a more natural
nish.

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Step 11

Now we can start working on the shadows. I wanted to create a heavy contrast between the
di erent angles of armour.  This is most obvious on the shoulder armour, where I was careful to
keep a clear contrast between the browner shadows and the lighter green highlights. I used the
angles of the armour to help with this - trying to apply a lighter highlight against a darker shadow
where the panels of armour meet, so it emphasises these hard edges.

Tutorial

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