An Outlandish Bodice

A corset-style vest in Four sizes

This feminine vest brings a little costumery to one’s Autumn wardrobe,

whether Hunting Simples in the forest, Gathering Children from the fair
f f
or easting around the ire.
The bodice is knit from the bottom up with the back and sides knitted in one piece to the underarm. Front
straps and the upper back are knitted separately. Stitches are picked up along the side-front edges and
Bodice fronts are knit out sideways to the centre front. Shoulders are grafted together and neckline, front
edges, and armholes are finished with iCord.
The pattern produces a garment for several sizes and relies on a degree of negative ease.
At key points there are suggestions as to how to fully customise the fit and final form of your own Bodice.
(see ‘Notes on the Variations’ on page 12)

Closures used were Coat Hooks & Eyes which require some negative ease to stay closed.
Shaping is incorporated into the cables to provide a wealth of possibilities.

The Bodice is customisable for front lacing over a fancy Busk, or an extended peplum frill can be created to
accommodate a big skirt and its undergarments.

Skills required : To be Merry of Soul and an experienced knitter.

Techniques :
cable stitches, picking up stitches and knitting in different directions, iCord bind-off and applied iCord,
Grafting/Kitchener Stitch.
Lucy Hague’s Grafting in Pattern tutorial:-
https://www.lucyhague.co.uk/blog/2013/02/26/tutorial-grafting-in-pattern

Yarn Notes :
The pattern uses heavier, more dense yarns in the category of Heavy 8ply/DK through to Light Worsted/
10ply weights. In Australia we have used an orderly British ‘ply’ system for decades. However, modern yarn
choices now also incorporate the American system of yarn weights. Consequently familiar yarn categories in
shops and on-line have enlarged and merged. We now see a sliding scale of yarns labelled 8ply/DK up to
10ply/worsted which are part of a new expanded category. These yarns are beautiful and desirable and have
quite various meterage and wraps per inch (wpi) that can make yarn selection and pattern matching difficult,
and so, swatching becomes a necessity.

To achieve the same sizing as in Table 2, it is recommended to swatch heavier 8ply/DK or 10ply/Worsteds
that will give a dense fabric and knit to the gauges listed in Table 1. Natural coloured and Eco yarns, as well
as some tweeds are very good candidates.
Of course, a hand-spun yarn of approximately the same weight and wpi would be just wonderful.
Needless to say, swatching for this pattern is unavoidable.
Superwash yarns are not recommended.

Examples used a local 100%, non superwash woollen yarn from the naturally coloured flocks of Karoa Farm, New
South Wales, Australia. Their Merino/Bond flocks produce a very soft yet durable fibre in natural colours.

Table 1:~ yarn weights and gauge

yarn Metres Gauge
size amount yarn weight required needles sts&rows in 10cm (4”)

350g Heavy 8ply (Worsted) ~140m/100g & 10wpi 500m 4mm (US6) 26sts & 28 rows
xS
S 400g Heavy 8ply (Worsted) ~140m/100g & 10wpi 560m 4.5mm (US7) 24sts & 26 rows

M 450g Heavy 8ply (Worsted) ~140m/100g & 10wpi 630m 4mm (US6) 26 sts & 28 rows

L 500g Heavy 8ply (Worsted) ~140m/100g & 10wpi 700m 4.5mm (US7) 24sts & 26 rows

~2~
Gauge Swatch:-
Work a 34 stitch/38 row test square as follows ~

Using your selected needle tips, cast on 34 sts.

(rs) - [p2, k6]4 times, p2
(ws) - all wrong side rows, knit & purl sts as they appear on the needle
Repeat these 2 rows twice - 6 rows completed
Begin cable pattern ~
row 1 - [p2, C6F}4 times p2 (see stitch library on back page)
Rows 2 to 8 - knit & purl sts as they appear on the needle
Repeat this 8 row cable pattern 3 more times (38 rows), and cast off.

Wash and block swatch as you intend to block your garment. and pin out to dry.
Go up or down a needle size to achieve gauge stated for size made.

Needles:- See Table 2 for needle sizes.

The pattern makes extensive use of interchangeable needle tips and cables to accommodate a large number
of stitches. Depending on your personal tension, you will need 4 to 4.5mm (US6 to 7) needle tips.
Select the needle tip size that will make a firm fabric which blocks to gauge. Swatching is essential for a well
fitting Bodice.

You will also need 3 x 80cm (32”) circular needle cords with stopper-ends to use for keeping stitches ‘live’ at
several points, a pair of dpns a half size smaller than the knitting tips you use, and
a fixed 3 to 3.5mm (US3 or 4) circular knitting needle was very useful for
picking up stitches around the neckline and armholes.
Substitute some smooth yarn to hold stitches, regular pin-style stitch holders
may not be long enough. Straight needles are not recommended.

Notions:-
8 to 10 ‘Coat Hooks&Eyes’, 18mmx27mm (0.71x1.06 inches).
Black, silver or gold metal “Coat Hooks&Eyes” are available through on-line stores.

Table 2:~ Sizes

Knitting
Bust Waist Hip Yarn weight
Tips
78cm 60cm 84cm Heavy 8ply (Worsted) ~140m/100g & 10wpi 4mm (US6)
X-Small
31” 24” 33”
84cm 66cm 88cm Heavy 8ply (Worsted) ~140m/100g & 10wpi 4.5mm
Small (US7)
33” 26” 36”
90cm 75cm 98cm Heavy 8ply (Worsted) ~140m/100g & 10wpi 4mm (US6)
Medium
36” 30” 40”
96cm 80cm 109cm Heavy 8ply (Worsted) ~140m/100g & 10wpi 4.5mm
Large (US7)
38” 32” 43”

Table 2 Pattern incorporates approximately 8cm (3”) of negative ease.

~3~
Pattern:-
x-Small and Small sizes: use first set of numbers in the instructions.
Medium and Larger sizes: use second set of numbers in brackets.

Using needle tips and yarn selected from Table 2, Cable cast on 124 (140) sts.

Set up for C6 cable Pattern:

Cables will change direction at the centre back so place a stitch marker between the 2 purl sts that mark the
centre back. ie- Between sts 62 & 63, (70 & 71)

Set up Row (rs) - p1, k1, p2, [k6, p2] twice (twice), k1, p2, [k6,p2] 10 (12) times,
k1, [p2,k6] twice (twice), p2, k1, p1.
Work 3 more rows, knitting and purling stitches as they appear, ending with a wrong side row.

Begin the 8 row C6 cable pattern:-

Row 1 - cable row (rs) - p1, k1, p2, [C6F, p2] twice (twice), k1, [p2, C6F] x 5 (6) times
p1, sm, p1, [C6B, p2] x5 (6) times, k1, [p2, C6B] twice (twice), p2, k1, p1.

Rows 2, 3 ,4, 5, 6, 7 and 8 Knit and purl stitches as they appear on the needle.

These 8 rows form the C6 cable set.

All Sizes - repeat C6 cable set twice more (3 cable twists from bottom)

Place a removable safety-pin marker at the side edge to mark the Waist-line.

Version 1 (no shaping) - repeat C6 cable pattern six more times, until there are 9 cable twists from bottom,
or until the side length from the waist marker to desired underarm depth has been
reached.

End on a wrong-side row 6 and make 2 decreases at each underarm as follows:

k1, p1, k2, p6, k2, p6, k2tog, p1, k2tog, [p6, k2] 9 (11) times, p6, k2tog, p1, k2tog, p6, k2, p6, k2, p1, k1
(136sts)
Pick up the main pattern again after the close of brackets }} on p5

{{Midriff Decreases:
Row 1 - decreasing cable row (rs) - p1, k1, p2, [C6F, p2tog] twice (twice), k1,
[p2tog, C6F] x 5 (6) times, p1, sm, p1, [C6B, p2tog] x5 (6) times,
k1, [p2tog, C6B] twice (twice), p2, k1, p1. (110 sts, 124 sts)

Work rows 2 to 8 as before.

The next 8 pattern rows maintain the decreases in the purl stitches as follows:

Row 1 - cable row (rs) - p1, k1, p2, [C6F, p1] twice (twice), k1, [p1, C6F] 5 (6) times,
p1, sm, p1, [C6B, p1] 5 (6), times, k1, [p1, C6B] twice (twice),
p2, k1, p1.

Continue as set, working rows 2 to 8 as before.

~4~
Repeat these last 8 rows twice more - there should now be 7 cable twists counting up from the bottom edge.

(These numbers of cable twists are just there as a guide. You may have customised the side seam and the armhole depth)

Version 2 (Peplum style) - continue pattern here.

Cable row with increases for bust and shoulder blades:

Row 1 - Increasing cable row (rs) - p1, k1, p2, C6F, pfkb, C6F, p1, k1, p1,
[C6F, pfkb] 4 (5) times, C6F, p1, sm, p1, C6B, [pfkb, C6B] 4 (5) times,
p1, k1, p1, C6B, pfkb, C6B, p2, k1, p1. 120 sts (136sts)

Work rows 2 to 8 as before.

Next set of pattern rows maintains the increases in the purl stitches as follows:

Row 1 - cable row (rs) - p1, k1, p2, C6F, p2, C6F, p1, k1, p1, [p2, C6F] x 5 (6) times
p1, sm, p1, C6B, [p2, C6B] x 4 (5) times, p1, k1, p1, [C6B, p2] twice (twice), k1, p1.
Work rows 2 to 6 only, as before }} end brackets for midriff shaping

There will be 9 or 10, or more, cable twists counting from the start of work. (this is based on an average
sized person and not set in stone. It completely depends on what version you are making and how long the side length
should be for your personal fit from the waist marker to underarm)

All sizes + Versions 1 & 2 :

Dividing stitches for side-front straps and back piece.

Having ended with a (ws) row 6 ~ the next row will be…

(rs) row 7 - - purl and knit across 15sts. Cast off next 8sts.
Continue to knit and purl across the back section to 23sts before the end of the row.
Cast off next 8sts, work to end.

Working the Front straps.

row 8 (ws) - Knit and purl across the sts of the LH front strap to 2 sts before arm-hole, p2tog. (14 sts)
row 1 (rs) - k2, p2, C6B, p2, K1, p1
row 2 (ws) - knit and purl across sts to last 2 sts, p2tog, (13 sts)
rows 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 - knit and purl sts as they appear.

Continue working on these 13sts without further decreases, keeping C6 cable set pattern correct for 6 more
repeats. LH front strap is 24cm (26cm) (9.5”, 10”) or length desired, ending on row 5 (rs).

Leave these Left Hand shoulder sts on a stitch-holder or a thread and break yarn. Leave at least a metre (36”)
tail for strap length adjustment and for Kitchener stitching to back shoulder sts later.

Scoot work to other end of your circular needle cord and with right-side facing, rejoin yarn at the RH front
edge and begin to work the RH front strap as follow
~5~
row 1 (rs) - p1, K1, p2, C6F, p2, k1, k2tog. (14sts)
row 2 (ws) - purl and knit across sts to front edge.
row 3 (rs) - p1, K1, p2, k6, p2, k2tog. (13sts)
rows 4, 5, 6, 7 and 8 - knit and purl sts as they appear

Continue to work on these RH front strap sts without further decreases, keeping ‘C6F’ pattern correct for 6
more repeats. RH front strap is 24cm (26cm) (9.5”, 10”), ending on row 4 (ws).
Leave these shoulder sts on a holder or piece of thread, break yarn leaving at least a metre of yarn tail (36”)
as for LH-front strap.

Back:-
With right side facing, rejoin yarn to the RH side of the 74 (90) back sts.
row 1 (rs) - SSK, k2, [p2, C6F] 4, (5) times to one stitch before centre back marker, p1, sm, p1, [C6B, p2] 4
(5) times, k2, k2tog. (72, 88 sts)
row 2 (ws) - knit and purl across.
row 3 (rs) - SSK, k1, p2, [k6, p2] 8 (10) times, k1, k2tog. (70, 86 sts)
row 4 (ws) - knit and purl across.
row 5 (rs) - SSK, p2, [k6, p2] 4 (5) times, k2tog. (68, 84 sts)
rows 6 to 8 - as row 4.

Without further decreases, work rows 1 to 8 of the C6 cable pattern once more.
Work should be about 4 cms (1.5”) from armhole cast off edge.

Begin the centre back decreases to shape upper back.

row 1 (rs) - K1, p2, [C6F, p2] 3 (4) times to the two centre back cable columns.
Take the next 3 sts onto a cable needle and hold at front of work, k2, then knit the next 2 sts together, knit 3
sts from cable needle. Remove centre-back marker.
Slip next 4 sts onto the cable needle, hold at back of work. Knit next 3 sts, then, k2tog, k2 from cable needle.
Complete row with [p2, C6B] 3 (4) times, p2, k1. (66sts, 82sts)
row 2 (ws) - knit and purl across.
row 3 (rs) - k1, [p2, k6] 3 (4) times, p1, slip next purl st onto cable needle and hold at back of work, knit next
4 sts, p1 from cable needle, k2tog, k2tog, slip next 4 sts onto cable needle and hold at front of work, p1, then
k4 from cable needle. Complete row as p1, [k6, p2] 3 (4) times, k1. (64 sts, 80 sts)

row 4 (ws) - and all further wrong side rows, as row 2

row 5 (rs) - k1, [p2, k6] 3 (4) times, p1, C4F, p1, k2tog, p1, C4B, p1, [k6, p2] 3 (4) times, k1.
(63 sts, 79 sts)
row 7 (rs) and row 8 (ws) - knit and purl across.

New 8 row cable set:

row 1 (rs) - k1, [p2, C6F] 3 (4) times, p1, C4F, p1, k1, p1, C4B, p1, [C6B, p2] 3 (4) times, k1.
row 2 (ws) - purl and knit stitches as they appear on row.
row 3 (rs) - purl and knit stitches as they appear on row.
row 4 (ws) - purl and knit stitches as they appear on row.
row 5 (rs) - k1, [p2, k6] 3 (4) times, p1, C4F, p1, k1, p1, C4B, p1, [k6, p2] 3 (4) times, k1
row 6 (ws) - purl and knit stitches as they appear on row.
row 7 (rs) - purl and knit stitches as they appear on row.
row 8 (ws) - purl and knit stitches as they appear on row.

All sizes:
Repeat New 8 row cable set - 3 more times until the back almost matches front straps at about 24cm (27cm)
(or 9.5”, 10”). Work one more (rs) row 1 cable row. The front straps should be a half repeat longer than the
back
~6~
Remove knitting tips and replace with stitch stoppers and leave these 63 (79) back neck stitches ‘live’ on the
cable for later.
Break yarn leaving a long tail to darn in afterwards.

You should now have a piece that looks like this, with
the front straps a half repeat longer than the back.

Check that the front straps and the back length are a
suitable fit on you - and the armhole is the depth you
require.

If there are any adjustments needed for the straps,

work in 8 row pattern increments, ending mid-repeat
on row 4 or 5.

For adjustments to the back, always end after a row 1

(rs) cable row. This prevents too much stretch
occurring at the back neck.

This example is a Version 2 Peplum in size Medium/

4mm(US6) with extra deep armholes.

Decide on the depth of the neckline décolletage for your Bodice. Measure from the shoulder down the chest
to where you want your neckline, typically somewhere between 18 and 20 cm for a standard neckline, but
this can be any depth you would like, even an under the bust neckline. Place a removable marker onto the
left-hand front strap at that same depth.

Pick up stitches for the lattice weave bodice fronts.

Right-hand lattice weave front:

With right side facing, turn vest sideways and begin

at the bottom edge of the RH-side. Using the same
size knitting tips as before, pick up the outer leg of
every one of the k1 stitches that run up along the
front edge.
Continue picking up the outer leg of these k1stitches
all the way up the front of the RH edge until you
reach the vicinity of your neckline décolletage
marker.

Add or remove stitches until you have a number of

stitches that are a multiple of 8 plus 3 extra.

(so that would be something like 67, 75, 83, 91, 99 or

even 107 stitches, depending on where you have your
neck-line marker)

~7~
Slip the picked up stitches back along cable of circular needle and re-join yarn at the bottom edge of the RH-
front. The first row will knit upwards toward the neckline.

First row (rs) - p2, [k2, p2] rpt brackets across row to last st, k1.
Second row (ws) - p1, k2, [p2, k2] rpt to end.

Begin Right-hand side lattice weave cables:-

row 1 (rs) - p2, [C3F, C3B, p2] rpt brackets to last st, k1.
row 2 (ws) - knit & purl sts as they appear on needle
row 3 (rs) - p3, [C4B, p4] across row to last 8 sts, C4B, p3, k1.
row 5 (rs) - p2, [C3B, C3F, p2] rpt to last st, k1.
row 7 (rs) - p1 [C3B, p2, C3F] rpt to last 2 sts, p1, k1.
row 9 (rs) - p1, k2, p4, [C4F, p4] rpt to last 4 sts, k2, p1, k1.
row 11 (rs) - p1, C3F, p2, [C3B, C3F, p2] rpt to last 5 sts, C3B, p1, k1.

These 12 rows form the Right-front Lattice weave pattern.

For size S - repeat rows 1 to 9 once more.
For size M - repeat rows 1 to 12 once, then work rows 1 to 3.

Remove knitting tips and replace with stoppers keeping the RH-front sts ‘live’ on the cable ready for any
adjustments and an iCord bind-off later.

Left-hand side lattice weave cables:-

With right side facing, again, pick up the outside leg of every k1 along the Left-hand edge. Starting at the
neckline marker and going all the way down to the hem Adjust stitches at the neckline end to achieve the
same stitch count as the RH-front.

Slip picked up sts along cable of needle and re-join yarn at the top edge of the LH-front piece.
The first row will knit downwards towards the hem.

First row (rs) - k1, p2, [k2, p2], repeat brackets across row..
Second row (ws) - [k2, p2] repeat brackets to last 3 sts, k2, p1.

Begin Left-hand side Lattice weave cables:-

row 1 (rs) - k1, p2, [C3F, C3B, p2] rpt brackets

across row

row 2 (ws) - and all wrong side rows, knit & purl
sts as they appear on needle

row 3 (rs) - k1, p3, [C4F, p4] across row to last 7

sts, C4F, p3.

row 5 (rs) - k1, p2, [C3B, C3F, p2] rpt brackets

across row.

row 7 (rs) - k1, p1, [C3B, p2, C3F] rpt to last st, p1.

row 9 (rs) - k1, p1, k2, p4, [C4B, p4] rpt to last 3
sts, k2, p1

row 11 (rs) - k1, p1, C3F, p2, [C3B, C3F, p2] rpt to
last 4 sts, C3B, p1.

~8~
These 12 rows form the Left-front Lattice weave pattern.
For size S - repeat rows 1 to 9 once more.
For size M - repeat rows 1 to 12 once more, then work rows 1 to 3.

Store these stitches ‘live’, as before, on the cable replacing knitting tips with stoppers.

Checking for fit:~

Wrap your bodice around you and tug the fronts together at the waist, midriff and bust - as for a Corset.
Determine that you have enough Lattice weave fabric to meet in the centre front with some negative ease.
The iCord bind-off adds about 1cm (1/2”) - about 0.5cm (3/16”) to each side.

If there is not enough fabric and bodice is far too tight even allowing for blocking: place knitting tips back
onto cables that are holding the bodice front stitches. Add a half repeat of the Left Front and Right Front
Lattice weave pattern rows as follows:

For size S - work Lattice rows 10, 11 and 12, and then rows 1 to 3, to the next C4F row.
For size M - work Lattice rows 4 to 9 to the next C4B row.

NB:~ Finishing at a C4B or C4F row produces a row of crossed cable-ends at the centre front edges, and
these are where the closure points for the bodice naturally occur.

Try again and see if there is now a good fit.

However, if there is too much fabric and bodice is going to be too loose after blocking:
For both sizes, take out 6 rows of cable lattice pattern from each side, back to the previous C4F or C4B row.
Try on again and check the fit.

Once you are happy with the midriff fit of your bodice and you have checked that the front straps and the
back are the correct length, you can graft the shoulders together.

Graft or Kitchener stitch the shoulders together as follows:

see Grafting in Pattern tutorial from Lucy Hague or any of the Kitchener Stitch tutorials you prefer.

Left hand shoulder:

Place knitting tips onto the cable holding the back neck stitches and with wrong side facing, slip the first 13
sts onto a dpn. Pick up the LH-front strap and transfer those 13 stitches to a second dpn.

Untangle the LH-front strap and bring the two dpns together with wrong sides facing, graft the two sets of
stitches together, using the long tail of left over yarn from the strap. Darn the ends back into the shoulder sts.

Right hand shoulder:

Scoot back neck stitches to the other end of the circular needle and with wrong side facing, slip the last 13 sts
onto a dpn. Pick up the RH-front strap and transfer those 13 stitches to a second dpn.

Untangle the RH-front strap and bring the two dpns together with wrong sides facing and graft the two sets
of stitches together, using the tail of left over yarn. Darn the ends back into the shoulder sts.

Leave the remaining approximately 39 (55) back neck sts on the circular needle cable, replacing knitting tips
with stoppers.

~9~
Begin iCord trim around neckline: ~ use k2tog-tbl for a tidy edge. If picked up sts slant the other way,
turn them around before knitting k2tog-tbl.

With right side facing, attach your knitting tips to the cable holding the RH-front stitches.
Beginning at the bottom of the RH-front with a dpn that is a half size smaller than your needles, re-join yarn
to the first stitch. Cast 3 stitches onto left hand tip. Begin iCord bind off as follows:

Step 1 (rs) - knit 2, k2tog-tbl.

Step 2 (rs) - Slip 3 stitches from dpn back onto LH circular needle tip

Repeat steps 1 & 2 until you reach the corner of the front neckline and there are just 3 sts left on the dpn.

Use a half size larger dpn if it seems too tight, a half size smaller if it seems too loose and wavy.

Using same smaller 3 to 3.5mm knitting tips on a circular needle cable, pick up the bottom leg of every k1
visible across the top edge of the bodice front, all across to the RH front strap edge,
about 20 to 22 sts (28 to 30 sts).

Slip the 3 dpn sts back onto the left-hand tip and repeat iCord Steps 1(rs) & 2(rs) as above, binding these
new sts off until the RH front strap is reached and there are just three sts left on the dpn and the circular
needle is once again free.

Again, pick up the outer leg of every k1 st running up the RH front strap neckline edge to the back neck sts
using the smaller tips and circular cable.

Transfer the three dpn sts back to the knitting end of the circular needle and iCord bind-off these sts until just
three sts remain on the dpn.

Remove stitch stoppers from the cable holding the back neck sts and replace with a suitable tip.

Transfer the three sts on the dpn back to the knitting end of the circular needle and bind these new sts off
until circular needle is again free and there are just the 3 sts again remaining on the dpn.

Using the now free circular needle and tip, pick up the outer leg of every k1 st running down the neckline
edge of the LH front strap to the top edge of the bodice front. Bind these off as before with dpn. Pick up the
bottom leg of every 20 to 22 sts (28 to 30 sts) corresponding k1 sts across the top of the LH front bodice top.
Bind these sts off as before.

Place a suitable tip onto the last needle cord holding the LH front sts. Transfer the three dpn sts onto the
LH needle tip as before and bind off until last three sts remain on the dpn. Slip these three onto the left-hand
needle tip and cast them off, one at a time. Cut yarn and pull end through last st, leaving enough length to
darn in.

iCord binding around armholes:

Starting at the LH underarm cast-off sts, with right side facing, pick up as many of the 8 sts cast off sts as
you can. Continue to pick up as many sts as you can around the curve of the underarm until the straight edge
of the armhole is reached and you can make use of the column of k1 sts going up the back edge. Pick up the
inner leg of every one of these k1 sts, across shoulder join and down the other side back to the armhole cast
off sts. The number of stitches picked up will vary depending on the depth of your armhole, however, a
rough estimate will be that there will be 8 k1 sts for every 8 row cable pattern repeat running up the straps
and the side of the back. There are 8 cast off sts under the arms and around 6 to 8 sts to be picked up from
the underarm slopes on each side of these. (anywhere from 120 to 140 stitches)

Using the same dpn as before, re-join yarn to first stitch. Cast 3 sts onto the LH needle tip and using dpn as
before, begin iCord bind off as for the fronts and neckline.Repeat for remaining armhole.
~10~
 Thread in all loose ends. Soak garment for at least
30 minutes in warm soapy water. Rinse in warm
water and squeeze out excess with hands before
rolling in a thick towel and pressing out more
water.

Block as hard as possible with blocking wires or

string at the sides, and pinning through the centre
fronts, to get desired measurements - the finished
vest will spring back a little once dried and still
have stretch.

This example is the standard pattern in

size Small/4mm (US6) tips

Sew the hooks and eyes in

place with button thread
onto the wrong side of
each front edge at the C4
cable cross points, starting
at the neckline.
The hooks&eyes should be
recessed a little so the two
fronts will meet snugly
without the hooks
showing.

The example shown here is

Version 1 in size
Small/4.5mm (US7)

It has 8 hooks&eyes,
including at the neckline.
It has right-handed closing
with the hook part on the
RH front edge and the eyes
on the LH front edge.
The number of closures
and their placement is up
to you.

~11~
Notes on Variations:~
The pattern produces a garment that fits closely around the midriff and waist, removing as much excess
fabric as possible………..
However………….

Version # 1 (no shaping)

For a gently fitting garment which allows the spring of the

cabling to provide natural shaping - ignore the instructions
between the brackets {{…..}} and continue the 8 row, C6
cable pattern as set until the side seam measures the correct
length for you.

Example in size Small/4.5mm (US7) needles

Version # 2 (Peplum)

An alternative Cast on for a tight bodice with a flat front

and larger diameter peplum frill suitable for big skirts (with or
without rump/bustle/bum-roll),

Example is in size Medium/4mm(US6)

This one has an under-bust style neckline and deeper
armholes for full, gathered sleeves. Used shorter side seams,
longer straps/back and a lower neckline décolletage.

~12~
Version 2 : Peplum add an additional 50g of yarn to be sure.

An alternative Cast-On for a tight fitting Bodice with a flat front and a flared peplum behind.
Enough flare to gracefully accommodate large skirts, rumps, bustles or bum-rolls.

All Sizes:
With 4.5mm (US-7) needle tips, Cable Cast-on 178 (202) sts.
Place a centre-back marker between sts 89&90 (101&102).

Set up row
(rs) - p1, k1, [p2, k8] twice, p4, k1, [p4, k8] 5 (6) times, p2, sm, p2, [k8, p4] 5 (6) times,
k1, p4, [k8, p2] twice, k1, p1.

Change knitting tips, if need be, to those you have chosen for your yarn and size, as per table 2
Next 7 rows, knit and purl sts as they appear on the needle, ending with a (ws) row.

C8 cable pattern:
row 1 (rs) - p1, k1, [p2, C8F] twice, p4, k1, [p4, C8F]5 (6) times, p2, sm, p2, [C8B, p4]5 (6) times, k1, p4,
[C8B, p2]twice, k1, p1.

work 9 rows of knit and purl as the stitches appear on the needle ending with a (ws) row 10.

Repeat the row 1 cables then rows 2 to 6 once more

Peplum Decreases:
row 7 (rs) - p1, k1, p2, [k2, k2tog, k2tog, k2, p2]twice, p2, k1, p4, [k2, k2tog, k2tog, k2, p4]]4 (5) times,
k2, k2tog, k2tog, k2, p2, sm, p2, [k2, k2tog, k2tog, k2, p4]5 (6) times, k1, p2 [p2, k2, k2tog,
k2tog, k2]twice, p2, k1, p1. 150 (170) sts

row 8 (ws) - k1, p1, k2, [p6, k2]twice, k2tog, p1, k2tog, k2, [p6, k1, k2tog, k1]4 (5) times, p6, k2tog, sm,
k2tog, [p6, k1, k2tog, k1]5 (6) times, p1, k2tog, [k2, p6]twice, k2, p1, k1. 136 (154) sts

C6 cable pattern:
row 1 (rs) - p1, k1, p2, [C6F, p2]twice, p1, k1, p3, [C6F, p3]4 (5) times, C6F, p1, sm, p1,
[C6B, p3]5, (6) times, k1, p3, [C6B, p2]twice, k1, p1.

rows 2 to 8 - knit and purl across rows.

C6 cable - decrease rows:

row 1 (rs) - p1, k1, p2, [C6F, p2]twice, p1, k1, p3, [C6F, p3]4 (5) times, C6F, p1, sm, p1,
[C6B, p3]5, (6) times, k1, [C6B, p2]twice, k1, p1.

row 2 (ws) - knit and purl across as before.

~13~
row 3 (rs) - p1, k1, p2, k6, p2tog, k6, p3tog, k1, [p3tog, k6]5 (6) times, p1, sm, p1, [k6, p3tog]5 (6)times
k1, p3tog, k6, p2tog, k6, p2, k1, p1. 110 (124) sts

rows 4 to 8 - knit and purl sts as they appear on the needle.

Place a removable marker on the side edge to locate the waist point.

C6 cables - final repeats:

row 1 (rs) - p1, k1, p2, [C6F, p1]twice, k1, p1, [C6F, p1]5 (6) times, sm, p1,
[C6B, p1]5, (6) times, k1, [p1, C6B]twice, p2, k1, p1.

rows 2 to 8 - knit and purl across rows.

Repeat this final 8 row C6 cable set 4 or more times, depending on the side length you desire.

Rejoin main pattern near the top of page 5.

This example is made in Medium/4mm and is the back view of the peplum version also shown on the front page.
It has deeper armholes for gathered sleeves and an under-bust neckline décolletage.

~14~
Stitch Library and Abbreviations:

C8F - slip next 4 sts onto dpn and hold at front of work.
Knit next 4 sts, then knit 4 sts from dpn.
C8B - slip next 4 sts onto dpn and hold at back of work.
Knit next 4 sts, then knit 4 sts from dpn.

C6F - slip next 3 sts onto dpn and hold at front of work.
Knit next 3 sts, then knit 3 sts from dpn.
C6B - slip next 3 sts onto dpn and hold at back of work.
Knit next 3 sts, then knit 3 sts from dpn.

C4F - slip next 2 sts onto dpn and hold at front of work.
Knit next 2 sts, then 2 sts from dpn.
C4B - slip next 2 sts onto dpn and hold at back of work.
Knit next 2 sts, then 2 sts from dpn.

C3F - slip next 2 knit sts onto dpn and hold at front of work, p1 then knit 2 from dpn
C3B - slip next purl stitch onto dpn and hold at back of work, k2, then p1 from dpn.

sm - slip marker
St or sts - stitch or stitches
pfkb - Purl into front of next stitch and leaving stitch on needle, knit into back of it as well. Increase 1 st.
dpn - double pointed needle

Lucy Hague’s Grafting in Pattern tutorial:-

https://www.lucyhague.co.uk/blog/2013/02/26/tutorial-grafting-in-pattern

Acknowledgements:-

Thank you so very much to Katie Himmelberg for the EcoVest (free on Ravelry).

This pattern belongs to HebrideanHeritageKnits ~ It was written by BronnyMath

and is a free Ravelry download. The pattern is free and the owner wishes it to remain forever free.
~15~