Assignment no.

4
1. Direct Current (DC) Machinery Maintenance and Troubleshooting
Reviewing the Service History
D.C. motor maintenance, as with all types of industrial maintenance, requires pre-maintenance planning
and scheduling. This starts with reviewing the motor’s service history usually contained within an
equipment maintenance log or, if the log is not available, interviewing the customer, operator or
responsible party to determine what type of maintenance is required, preventative or corrective (failure
repair).  The goal is to determine:
What kind of maintenance is required?
What maintenance personnel are needed to perform the maintenance (skill level).
What parts are needed to complete the maintenance (i.e., bearings, brushes, etc.)
What kind of scheduling or coordination with other departments is required to perform the maintenance
(downtime or off-hours scheduling)
What kind of safety hazards exist that would interfere with the maintenance?
If there are problems other than the motor itself that caused the motor breakdown.
Noise and Vibration Inspections
Prior to disconnecting the motor and sending it to the shop or a repair facility for maintenance, a noise
and vibration inspection should be conducted. This requires the motor to be connected to its driven load,
energized and operated normally (if possible). The existence of mechanical noises or vibrations can
indicate a variety of problems, such as mechanical and/or electrical imbalances, misalignments, brush
chattering, bad bearings, bent shafts, mechanically loose windings (shaken lose by excessive vibrations,
for instance) or simply a loose cooling fan or something stuck inside the vents or shroud. If the windings
are loose, after it is disassembled, check for insulation and lead damage.  Vibrations can also be the root
cause for excessive heat and brush sparking.
Noises and vibrations are not limited to mechanical problems or imbalances; electrical imbalances, such
as open or shorted windings or uneven airgaps, can cause noises or vibrations. The easy way to
troubleshoot an electrical from a mechanical imbalance is to first power up the motor, then disconnect
power. If the noise/vibration exists while it is unpowered, the problem is mechanical; if the noise stops
while power is disconnected, the problem is usually electrical. 
Visual Inspections
Before disassembly, refer to the manufacturer’s technical documentation on recommended inspection
tests or procedures. This documentation will provide valuable information for conducting visual
inspections. 
A visual inspection is meant to observe and record anomalies about the physical condition of the motor in
a de-energized state. A motor that appears dirty, corroded or has the “beat up” look indicates that it was
operated in a rough environment and may have more problems than usual. This inspection should include
the “smell” test. Is there a burned odor coming from the motor windings? The burnt smell is coming from
the insulation varnish of the motor windings.  If so, this suggests an overheating problem. Motor winding
damage is possible under these conditions so winding tests should be conducted.
Overheating problems may not necessarily be internal to the motor; rather, they could be the result of
mechanical overloads such as jams in the driven load or a cold oil that is being pumped via a motor
drive , running the motor at low speeds such that there’s inadequate cooling airflow, electrical noise from
DC drives overheating the windings or it could simply be the result of a dirty environment. Dirt acts like a
heat insulator and heat damage is the weakness of normal motor operation. Inspect the cooling fan and
passages to ensure they are operational and free of blockage, respectively. Clean all surfaces with a rag
and blow out or vacuum passages with a shop vac. Corrosion can damage motor windings as well as
create high resistance wiring connections. If the corrosion is chronic, a motor rewind may be merited if
the winding tests verify that winding damage has occurred. Re-lugging the motor connection box
terminals also may be required.
Motor Winding Tests
Once the motor is disassembled, and a thorough inspection of internal components has been conducted,
testing the motor windings is done. This is where a maintenance history can prove its value. What kind of
service history is on record relative to the winding failures or abnormalities? Has the motor ever been
rewound? If so, what was the cause of the failure? This information suggests what kind of motor winding
tests are necessary. In some situations, motor winding tests beyond the ground insulation (megger) test
may need to be conducted. Is there any evidence of overheating of the windings? This may appear as burn
marks, cracks, or, if catastrophic, exposed wire. Severe damage would require rewinding the motor.
Once again, look at the physical condition of the windings. If they are dirty or corroded, clean the
windings with a brush, hot water and detergents and a vacuum.  Check the manufacturer’s documentation
before using any solvents or detergents to ensure they will not damage the insulation. Avoid using
pressurized air because the force of the air may propel particles into the winding insulation and damage it.
Is there moisture on the windings? If so, prior to conducting any winding tests, the windings must be
thoroughly dried out. Moist or wet windings will generally give false readings when conducting
insulation tests so the windings must be dried first. This is done by baking the motor windings in an oven
until the insulation resistance is at least 10 megohms. Refer to the manufacturer’s technical
documentation on specific requirements. If this does not work, consider revarnishing the motor first.  If
the motor passes the insulation tests, this is an adequate solution. If not, a rewind will be necessary, a job
that is beyond the capabilities of most general maintenance shops.
The standard way to test winding insulation is the megger test which applies a D.C. voltage, usually 500
or 1000 volts, to the motor and measures the resistance of the insulation. The minimum insulation
resistance to ground is 1 megohm per kv of rating plus 1 megohm at 40 degrees Celsius ambient.
Measurements of 50 megohms or more are common.  Resistance readings depend on the motor size, type
of wire, etc. Refer to the manufacturer’s documentation for the specific values of ground insulation
resistance. One caveat about testing ground insulation with a megger: the values can vary so conduct
several tests over a period of time. Low readings indicate a problem that needs to be investigated. A
ground insulation test is not a comprehensive motor insulation test; it does not, for instance, test the
insulation’s resistance between turns of the windings. To test coil-to-coil or turn-to-turn insulation
failures, a high surge test, the Hipot test, would be required and requires special test equipment 
Brush and Commutator Maintenance
The brushes and commutator are integral to the normal operation of a D.C. motor. The brushes ride or
slide on the rotating commutator of the armature; there should be little brush noise, chatter or sparking
when the motor is powered up.  Excessive brush wear or chipping are signs that the motor is not
commutating properly, which can be caused by a variety of factors. While de-energized, rotate the
armature by hand to see if the brushes are free to ride on the commutator and there’s adequate spring
tension to keep them hugging the commutator.  A good brush should have a polished surface which
indicates that it has been seated properly. Check the brush connections to ensure they are tight and clean.
Determine if the brushes are aligned properly. Misalignment from neutral can cause sparking (armature
reaction). The brushes should have equidistant spacing around the commutator and parallel to the bars.
Clean any debris around the brushes. Compare the brushes to a new set of brushes to gauge the amount of
wear. If excessive or, if you don’t think they will last until the next maintenance time, replace them.
The commutator should have a smooth, polished, brown appearance. There should be no grooves,
scratches or scores. If there are any blackened, rough areas on the commutator, it’s probably caused by
brush sparking. If a commutator has a brassy appearance, there’s excessive wear that could be caused by
the wrong type of brush or the wrong spring tension. Check the manufacturer’s technical documentation
to verify the correct brushes are installed. Carbon dust and debris from the brushes can cause sparking
and damage the commutator. If the commutator is rough and the bars are uneven, it will need to be turned
on a lathe to restore its roundness. To clean the commutator, use a commutator cleaning brush (fiberglass)
and some electric motor cleaner. Never use emery paper because it has metal particles in it that if rubbed
off could cause electrical shorts. Remove the brush springs, slide the brush across the commutator hood
and spray. When done, blow out the motor so it is dry and clean.
Bearings: Replacement and Lubrication
There are different types of bearings and the required maintenance on them will depend on the type of
bearing, operating environment and the motor application. There are lubed-for-life, sealed bearings used
in low horsepower motors that do not require lubrication.
Lubrication is only one of three maintenance tasks involved with motor bearings. Cleaning, removal and
replacement are the other tasks. In the noise and vibration inspections, the bearings should have been
inspected for abnormal noises, vibrations or hot bearings. The “feel” and “sound” tests are simple
methods to gauge bearing condition. For the “feel” test, with the motor running, touch the bearing
housing. If it is very hot to the touch, the bearing is probably malfunctioning. In the “sound” test, listen
for thumping or grinding noises. If they exist, the bearings need a closer look and possible replacement.
For most types, the sources of bearing failures are:
Insufficient oil or grease.
Too much grease causing churning and overheating.
Worn bearings (i.e., broken balls or rough races, etc.)
Hot motor or external environment.
If the service history demonstrates repeated bearing failures, check the manufacturer’s specifications to
determine if the correct bearing has been installed. If that’s not the case, then an external factor could be
the cause. Prior to bearing removal or replacement, clean the housing with solvents or flushing oils. The
bearings should be cleaned with a lint free rag. Take a lot of care to keep dirt out of the bearing. When
bearings need to be replaced, remove them with the proper tool. Hammers should never be used since
they can damage the bearing races. The bearing puller’s claws should be attached to the sidewall of the
inner ring or an adjacent part.
The lubrication schedule depends on the bearing and the motor application. Small-to-medium motors with
ball bearings (except sealed) are greased every 3-6 years under normal conditions. A wet, corrosive or
high temperature environment may require more frequent lubrication. The proper lubricant is critical to
proper lubrication; check with the manufacturer on oil/grease recommendations. Prior to lubrication,
remove the relief plug from bottom of the housing in order to prevent excessive pressure during
lubrication. After completing greasing, run the motor 5-10 minutes until grease flowing out of the grease
hole. This will expel the excess grease.

2. Troubleshooting of DC Machines - (symptoms and causes).

⮚ Battery Malfunction

There are several things that can cause your battery to fail. For example, loose or dirty connections can
adversely affect battery performance. These connections should be cleaned and fastened tightly at
periodic intervals. Your battery failure could also be due to a buildup of lead sulfates, which can affect its
ability to provide sufficient electrical current. Usually, by the time this has happened, you will need to
replace the battery altogether.

⮚ Fuel, Coolant, or Oil Leaks

Fuel leaks often happen due to an issue with the pump system. You should have the system
professionally inspected regularly to make sure it is functioning properly. Also, don’t forget to check
flexible fuel lines for any cracks or other signs of wear and tear.
Coolant leaks usually occur in the hoses of the block heater. These hoses are subject to extreme
temperatures, so it’s important to use only silicone hoses that are specifically made for block heaters.
Maintaining the cooling system frequently will also help you avoid leaks. Hoses should be replaced
every few years to reduce the risk of failure. Additionally, coolant can begin to deteriorate over time, so
the cooling system should be flushed and replaced with new coolant per the manufacturer’s
recommendation.
What appears as oil leaks is actually most often the result of something known as “wet stacking.” Wet
stacking is a buildup of carbon particles, lube oil, unburned fuel, and acids caused when an engine is run
significantly below the output level that it is rated for. Left unaddressed, wet stacking can severely
damage the internal parts of your engine. You will need to burn off the excess fuel by loading the
generator at the proper range for a few hours. If you’re unsure of the appropriate range, contact a
generator professional for assistance.

⮚ Low Coolant

Coolant is what keeps your engine from overheating. An engine that’s allowed to run too hot will quickly
breakdown, so it is crucial to check your levels frequently. If you notice that you are going through more
coolant than usual, you may have a leak in the system. Keep an eye out for any visible puddles during
your routine inspection. If you do appear to have a leak, have the unit looked at by a qualified technician
to rule out any other issues with the unit.

⮚ Air in Fuel System

When generators aren’t used on a regular basis, they can begin to develop air in the fuel system. Air can
cause fuel injector failure, so the engine won’t startup. You can avoid this issue by operating the
generator once a week for at least five minutes. This gives enough time to clear air from the fuel system
and to make sure the engine will start and run normally.

⮚ Poor Maintenance

Investing in a generator system can be quite expensive—often tens of thousands of dollars—so you’ll
want to maximize its lifespan with regular maintenance. At a minimum, maintenance should be done at
least every three months, but there may be some instances when you need it sooner, such as in extreme
weather conditions.
b) Generator voltage too high or low.

⮚ Load applied to generator exceeds capacity, typically would cause machine to slow down, drop
frequency and voltage typically cause exhaust black stacking and depending on the overload and
protection settings could cause machine to stall.

⮚ AVR Voltage gain set too low to respond to load being applied.

⮚ If AVR feedback is from generator bus VT and voltage dips too far, all excitation could be lost and
would typically result in an under voltage and overcurrent trip.

⮚ Speed control gain set too low to respond to load being applied.

⮚ Mechanical issue such as failing turbo unable to provide enough air of high enough pressure while
taking on load which will cause machine to slow down and in some cases stall on high load application
with sufficient reduction in speed voltage will also lower as well as frequency. In this condition you'd
probably also see exhaust black stacking.

⮚ Mechanical issue such as fuel injection clogged or fuel filters clogged causing the machine to be under
fuelled to handle load application and may cause machine to slow down, which in turn would drop Hertz
and Volts.

⮚ There's a whole truck load full of other reasons why this could happen.

c) Motor does not start.

⮚ Bad Ignition Switch

Probably the least common of the top five reasons a car will not start has to do with a faulty ignition or
ignition switch. This is a part that will wear over time and if you begin to experience issues pertaining to
trouble turning the key, have flickering dash lights when you turn the key or if the car has no reaction at
all when you turn the key your car may be suffering from an ignition issue.

⮚ Failed Starter
A bad starter motor will likely be one of the first things people think of when their car begins to have
trouble starting or completely fails to start. A failed starter will often produce a loud single click, or a
series of click, click, click when you turn the key. This is the sound of a starter actuating but not being
able to engage with the flywheel to spin the motor.

⮚ Faulty Alternator

The alternator is a belt driven device that is responsible for creating spark in the engine as well as
charging the vehicle's battery as the car is running. If the alternator fails the battery will be drained of its
power as it takes over powering the accessories the alternator normally would during vehicle operation
and the next time you go to start the car it won't fire.

⮚ Fuel System Issue

Fuel system problems can cause numerous issues, such as a rough idle, power depreciation and of course
cause your car not to start. Fuel issues include a clogged fuel filter that won't allow gas to get to the
engine, a failed fuel pump or dirty fuel injectors.

⮚ Dead Car Battery

There is little doubt the common reasons a car will not start is the result of a dead battery. The battery is
responsible for providing the initial electricity necessary to get the car running. It will die if accessories
or lights are left on or if it has reached the end of its normal lifespan.
d) Motor runs fast or too slow.
It has a fixed terminal voltage and the mechanical load on the shaft varies. This causes the speed and
back-emf to vary.
It should never run too slow which means the terminal voltage is too low. One would have to ensure that
at rated load the terminal voltage is such that it ensures rated speed.
A variable speed controller would adjust the terminal voltage to ensure constant speed up to rated load.
As Ron Garrett notes the motor being overloaded is also a cause but which should not occur if correctly
designed.
e) Commutator sparking of brushes.

⮚ Brush Holders not equally spaced:

This condition may appear as unequal sparking on different holders. It can be determined by counting the
number of bars between holders or by putting a band of paper around the commutator, marking the
positions of the brush toes, removing the paper, and measuring the distance marks. To correct, move the
brush holders so that adjacent holders are all equally distant from one another.

⮚ Brush holders off electrical neutral:

Even though the holders are equally spaced, they may be out of their correct position and cause sparking
which may be equally severe on all brushes of the same polarity. This fault can be detected by running a
field form curve. The trouble may be corrected by shifting the brushes.

⮚ Brush Holders damaged or dirty:

Any physical damage to the holder or an accumulation of dirt on its inside may interfere with the free
motion of the brush in the holder and thus result in sparking. Since the commutator is seldom perfectly
round or concentric, the brush must movie in and out of its holder in order to maintain effective contact.
Visual examination and testing the free action of the brush with the fingers are usually sufficient to
reveal this condition. Thorough cleaning or complete replacement will improve operation.

⮚ Holders too far from commutator surface:

If the holder is too far from the surface of the commutator, it fails to support or guide the brush properly.
This may result in the brush cocking in the holder and binding, or the brush vibrating and losing contact
with the commutator. The obvious remedy is to adjust the brush holders so that their nearest point is 1/16
to 1/8 in. from the commutator surface, depending on the type of machine.

⮚ Wrong interpole strength:

This may be caused by a flaw in the interpole winding such as a broken wipe or short circuit, or by
incorrect spacing of the pole face in relation to the armature. In either event, repair or correction may be
facilitated through use of field form and brush drop curves.

⮚ Overloads:

Excessive overloads may result in severe sparking, especially if the interpoles have passed their
saturation point and are therefore, unable to increase their strength as required. If the machine has an
ammeter, compare its load with the nameplate rating. Make any load adjustments necessary.

⮚ Defective armature windings:

And defect in the windings may show up as sparking at the brushes. It will frequently also be apparent by
one or more burned places on the commutator. Check for high resistance connections where the risers are
soldered or brazed to the commutator or for poor connections in one or more of the equalizers.
Remember, though, that any other fault in the armature may also show up as sparking. Where other tests
verify an armature fault, the winding must be replaced.

⮚ Incorrect spring pressure:

Contact drop of a brush is influenced by the pressure with which it is forced against the commutator. If
the pressure varies from brush to brush, those brushes carrying a higher pressure will have a lower
contact drop and will tend to take more than their share of the current. This can sometimes be determined
by checking the temperature of the brushes immediately after shutting down the machine. If this fault is
suspected, check the spring pressure on each brush with a scale. Adjust to the level recommended by the
manufacturer.

⮚ Poor undercutting of commutator:

If the commutator has high mica or fins of mica that reach up to the brush surface, vibration and sparking
may result. Similarly, any burrs of copper left as a result of the undercutting operation will cause trouble.
In some locations and atmospheres,
commutator slots may become filled with foreign material. This can cause the brushes to vibrate or cause
ring fire by permitting current to leak through from one bar to the other. Correction of these conditions is
the solution to the problem.
⮚ Foreign material on commutator surface:

Any gummy or gritty material which sticks to the commutator surface may cause sparking. Oil may be
beneficial in extremely small quantities but frequently causes gumming when used excessively. Careful
examination of the commutator will usually disclose such conditions. Thorough cleaning is
recommended.

⮚ Black commutator films:

Abnormally dark commutators may result from sulfur, excessive humidity and other gaseous materials.
This condition may cause selective action and result in sparking on the heavily-loaded brushes. Solution
of the problem may be difficult when commutator speeds are too high. A rather abrasive brush may be
the answer. In other cases, frequent polishing of the commutator may be required.

⮚ Brushes binding in holder:

When brushes are not of the correct size or when brush hardware projects too far at some point, brushes
may bind in their holders. Damage to holders may also cause binding. If the brushes are too tight in the
holders, their proper motion will be restricted so that they cannot maintain contact with the commutator
and sparking may result. If they are too small, they may wobble in the holders and thus tend to break
contact with the commutator and bring about the same result. The specific cause of binding should be
determined and eliminated by repair or replacement.

⮚ Restricted brush motion:

Brush motion may be restricted because of shunt stiffness or by contact with some other member.
Similarly, something may interfere with the motion of the spring itself or with the hammer by which the
spring applies its pressure to the brush. Mechanical adjustment will usually correct these conditions.

⮚ Out-of-round commutator:

The commutator may be out-of-round of eccentric because of improper finishing. As a consequence, the
brush may not be able to follow the surface and maintain proper contact. Careful measurements,
preferably made with the armature rotated, will usually disclose this defect.

⮚ High bars or flat spots:

These conditions can usually be identified by careful examination of the commutator when it is not
running. A high bar will usually be polished and followed by several bars which look rough and pitted or
burned. The high bar will usually result in a flat spot because it lifts the brush off the commutator and the
following bars may be burned so that their height is reduced. To correct, the commutator should be
ground or turned. If the trouble develops again, the commutator probably needs tightening by an expert.

⮚ Machine vibration:

Vibration of the machine itself may cause brush sparking and eventually result in commutator damage.
Such vibration may be caused by imbalance in the armature, by poor foundations or other mechanical
faults. It can also result from defective bearings. Pinpointing the cause of vibration will indicate the
corrective course to follow.
f) Noise and excessive vibration.
⮚ Imbalance:

A “heavy spot” in a rotating component will cause vibration when the unbalanced weight rotates around
the machine’s axis, creating a centrifugal force. Imbalance could be caused by manufacturing defects
(machining errors, casting flaws) or maintenance issues (deformed or dirty fan blades, missing balance
weights). As machine speed increases, the effects of imbalance become greater. Imbalance can severely
reduce bearing life as well as cause undue machine vibration.

⮚ Misalignment:

Vibration can result when machine shafts are out of line. Angular misalignment occurs when, for
example, the axes of a motor and pump are not parallel. When the axes are parallel but not exactly
aligned, the condition is known as parallel misalignment. Misalignment may be caused during assembly
or develop over time, due to thermal expansion, components shifting or improper reassembly after
maintenance. The resulting vibration may be radial or axial (in line with the axis of the machine) or both.

⮚ Wear:

As components such as ball or roller bearings, drive belts or gears become worn, they may cause
vibration. When a roller bearing race becomes pitted, for instance, the bearing rollers will cause a
vibration each time they travel over the damaged area. A gear tooth that is heavily chipped or worn, or a
drive belt that is breaking down, also can produce vibration.

⮚ Looseness:

Vibration that might otherwise go unnoticed may become obvious and destructive if the component that
is vibrating has loose bearings or is loosely attached to its mounts. Such looseness may or may not be
caused by the underlying vibration. Whatever its cause, looseness can allow any vibration present to
cause damage, such as further bearing wear, wear and fatigue in equipment mounts and other
components.
g) Hot bearings.

⮚ Lubrication Problems

A bearing must be lubricated correctly to function properly. Lubrication provides a thin film between a
bearing’s rolling elements and raceway, protecting metal-to-metal contact, which increases friction and
causes heat to build up.
The type of lubricant is also critical. The wrong lubricant causes overheating. Contact the lubricant
manufacturer to determine the correct grease or oil for the application at hand.
Lubricant quantity is a factor in overheating. Excessive lubrication can cause a condition called churning,
leading to a sharp temperature rise in all but exceptionally slow-speed bearings. In this case, the static oil
level should be reduced to the center of the lowest ball or roller. If grease is used, the lower half of the
housing should be half full.
The opposite problem, insufficient lubrication, can cause bearing temperatures high enough to produce
discoloration and softening of bearing steel. If this occurs, the bearing should be replaced. To prevent
this type of damage, fill the bearing housing with grease or oil to recommended levels.
Problems can arise in the lubricant delivery system, If lubricant return holes in the housing’s seal area are
blocked, the pumping action caused by certain types of seals causes oil to leak. The oil level is reduced,
allowing heat to build up. The blockage should be removed, the used oil drained, and the housing refilled
with the proper amount of fresh lubricant.
External oil sight gauges can have clogged vents. This blockage causes inaccurate reading with the gauge
showing a greater amount of oil than is actually present in the system. Over time, the bearing oil level
drops, and damage occurs without the operator’s knowledge. Oil gauges should be checked and cleaned
regularly.

⮚ Mechanical Causes

Overheating is often a symptom of problems within a bearing arrangement’s basic mechanical

components. If lubrication is correct, troubleshooting should focus on bearing shaft fits, housing fits,
internal clearances, and housing shaft seals.
Bearings with inadequate internal clearances are prone to overheating. This is often due to faulty bearing
clearance selection. The appropriate clearance can be misjudged, for example, in cases where external
heat is conducted through the shaft, expanding the bearing inner ring. To ensure correct internal
clearance, the replacement bearing should have internal clearance specifications identical to the
manufacturer’s specifications.
Insufficient bearing internal clearances can be caused by excessive shaft interference. A cylindrical bore
bearing mounted on a shaft with an over sized diameter can result in excessive expansion of the bearing
inner ring, reducing clearance in the bearing. To correct this condition, have the shaft diameter ground to
obtain the specified fit between bearing and shaft.
Too little clearance in tapered bore bearings can occur when the bearing is forced too far along the
tapered shaft. To resolve this, loosen the lock nut, dismount the bearing, and remount it properly,
following the bearing manufacturer’s installation instructions for re-tightening. The lock nut should
secure the bearing on the sleeve, but allow it to rotate freely.
Another common source of overheating occurs when the arrangement consists of two locating bearings
on a single shaft, restricting the axial bearing movement that accommodates shaft expansion. The
problem is solved by ensuring that only one bearing is held, and the other has adequate axial clearance in
the housing bore to allow for shaft expansion. The problem is solved by ensuring that only one bearing is
held, and the other has adequate axial clearance in the housing bore to allow for shaft expansion. This
approach restores sufficient axial bearing motion to the arrangement. Pedestal-mounted housings should
be located with the floating bearing cantered in its housing seat, permitting shaft expansion or
contraction.
A potential problem can occur when rotating seals rub against a bearing’s stationary parts. This results
from insufficient clearance in labyrinth seals, or from seal misalignment. Check the running clearance of
the troublesome seal and correct it. Realign the seal to eliminate rubbing.
Contact seals may also be excessively tight, leading to a build-up of heat, Tightness occurs when
composition seals have excessive spring tensions or have died out. Replace tight seals with those of
lower spring tension. If the seals are dry, lubricate them.

⮚ Housing-Related Malfunctions
Heat-producing mechanical problems are not confined to bearing and seals, but can also be caused by the
housing. These problems include out-of-round and undersized housings, over sized housings, and
housings enlarged by wear.
A housing bore that is out-of-round and undersized can pinch a bearing and cause it to run hot. The best
solution is to replace the housing. In some cases, the housing bore can be re-machined to eliminate
pinching. Excessive housing distortion is often associated with an uneven housing platform or improper
shimming of the platform. Check the housing platform for flatness and for shims that fully cover the
entire pillow block base.
An over-sized housing bore can cause a bearing to overheat by allowing the bearing outer ring to spin.
Replace a housing of this type with a correctly sized one; Outer ring spinning also occurs when
nonferrous housings are gradually worn away because of the relative softness of the metal. Re-bore the
housing and insert a steel bushing into the bore with an interference fit. Machine the bushing bore to the
correct size.
h) Electrical parts overheating.

⮚ Electrical overload caused by excessive voltage supply or overwork by drawing more current will lead
to overheating issues. As the motor works harder or under unusual load, heat will be the chief byproduct,
leading to failure.

⮚ Low resistance is the most common reason behind electric motor failure. Degradation of motor
windings by heat will pave the way for short-circuits and leakages, which leave the motor at risk for
failure.

⮚ Contamination of dust and debris will raise the internal temperature of a motor and keep it from
cooling, which leads to excessive heat over a longer period of time. This generally occurs without proper
maintenance or venting for particles.

⮚ Start-stop frequency plays a big role in heat damage. Excessively starting, stopping, and starting your
motor again won’t allow it to cool properly. The result is a high-heat environment that wears on the
integrity of components.

⮚ Vibration from a condition like soft foot leads to excessive heat. If vibrations are severe enough,
they’ll raise temperatures to unsafe levels and stress components beyond their capacity for heat.