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THE JACKFIELD TILE SQUARE

Jackfield is a village on the river Severn in Shropshire, England, where beautiful

ceramic tiles have been manufactured for commercial and domestic use since the
19th century. Many of these are on display in period room settings and galleries
there, in the original factory buildings, now a working museum and part of the
famous Ironbridge Gorge World Heritage site. It's a real feast for the eyes of colour
and design - I like to think this crocheted square is reminiscent of some of those tiles.

MATERIALS AND EXTRAS:

 Leftover yarns in EITHER Aran (Worsted) weight OR DK weight - any

number of colours you choose. (My finished square in DK weighs less than
70g.)
 5.5mm hook (for Aran)
 4.5mm hook (for DK)
 Tapestry needle, scissors and stitch markers.

MEASUREMENTS: 12" square

GAUGE: Not important as size can be adjusted by adding or leaving out final
rounds. As a guide the first 9 rounds (up to the inner diamond) in DK yarn with a
4.5mm hook measure 5.5 – 6 inches across approx., side to side not corner to
corner.

SKILL LEVEL: Intermediate. Not too difficult, but needs concentration.

SKILLS NEEDED:

Required: magic ring, basic stitches (chain, single crochet, double crochet, triple
crochet, slip stitch), front/ back post stitches, understanding of 'hidden' corner stitch.

Optional: standing stitches, invisible joining method, 'third loop'.

Plenty of online tutorials for all these – Google or try www.lookatwhatimade.net

© Christine Bateman 2018 christinelbateman@yahoo.com ChrisLudlow on Ravelry

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ABBREVIATIONS: (US TERMS)

ch - chain fpdc(s) - front post double crochet(s)

st(s) - stitch(es) bpdc(s) - back post double crochet(s)

ss - slip stitch(es) bphdc(s) - back post half double

crochet(s)
sc(s) - single crochet(s)
fptr(s) - front post triple crochet(s)
hdc(s) - half double crochet(s)
blo - back loop only
dc(s) - double crochet(s)
sk - skip
tr(s) - triple crochet(s)
sp(s) - space(s)
fpsc(s) - front post single crochet(s)

bpsc(s) - back post single crochet(s)

IMPORTANT: Please read before starting

 Instructions assume new colour for each round: begin with standing
stitch where possible and fasten off invisibly, or with a slip stitch into
top of first stitch.

 It is possible to work the whole square in one colour without cutting the
yarn between rounds except for one or two where cutting and restarting
in a different place will be necessary. Fastening off is only specified
where unavoidable - otherwise slip stitch to starting point then replace
first st with appropriate no. of ch: i.e. 1ch for sc, 2ch for hdc, 3ch for dc
etc. (Joins won't be so neat, unless you know a way of seamlessly
moving from one round to the next, in which case please tell me!)

 Note that several stitches in rounds 10, 11 and 12 are worked into back
loop only (blo). This is so that the edge of the inner 'diamond' is more
defined. You get even better definition by working into the third loop of
the indicated stitches. This is what I did so this is what the photos show.

 Words in bold type: important instructions. Words in red italic type: helpful
hints. I hope!

(Use invisible join or end rounds with ss into first st throughout.)

R1 16 dcs into magic ring – pull tight to close.

R2 (1dc, 1ch) into each dc. (16 dcs + 16 ch)

© Christine Bateman 2018 christinelbateman@yahoo.com ChrisLudlow on Ravelry

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R3 Do not work into dcs. 3dcs in each 1ch sp. (48 dcs)

R4 (Sk first st of 3dc group, sc in next 2, fptr around dc in R2 directly below.) Repeat
all round. (When finishing round, invisibly or with ss, remember to sk last st.) (32
scs + 16 fptrs)

R5 (1fpsc around fptr, sc in next 2.) Repeat all round. (32 scs + 16 fpscs. Don't
worry - it will eventually lie flat)

R6 (3dcs into top of fpsc, sc in next 2.) Repeat all round. (48 dcs + 32 scs)

R7 (create corners) : (2dcs, 1tr) in first of any 2 scs, 2ch, (1tr, 2dcs) in next st, sk
next st (first of 3dcs in R6), sc in next 2, 1hdc in next, sk next st, (sc in next 3, 1hdc
in next, sk next st) x 2, sc in next 2, sk next st. Repeat from beginning all round. (16
dcs + 8 trs + 40 scs + 12 hdcs + 4 x 2ch corner sps) (See photo.) Now place a
stitch marker around the two trs at the centre of each corner on the wrong
side.

R8 (1sc, 2ch, 1sc) in corner ch sp. Sc in next 2, 1hdc, sk next st, 1hdc, sc in next 9,
1 hdc, sk next st, 1hdc, sc in next 2. Repeat from beginning all round. (60 scs + 16
hdcs + 4 x 2ch corner sps)

R9 (This round needs care – easy to miss stitches out or make too many. It might
help to check on the wrong side that everything is correct.) (2dcs, 2ch, 2dcs) in
corner ch sp. Sk first (hidden) st, dc in next 2, bpdc in next 3. Be careful not to
work the first bpdc around the post of the same stitch you just worked into.
Bphdc in next 8, bpdc in next 3, dc in next 2. Repeat from beginning all round. (32
dcs + 24 bpdcs + 32 bphdcs + 4 x 2ch corner sps) Fasten off. (See photo.)

R10 Rejoin yarn - 1sc blo in 14th st on any side. (This is the seventh bphdc.) *Make
a chain of 6 diagonally behind next corner. Don't turn work but fold corner
forwards, and still working at back of corner pick up 2 suitable threads in
marked stitches on R7 and make a slip stitch (Fig 3). Ch 7, 1sc blo in 9th st of
next side. (This is the second bphdc.) Sk 1st, (5dc, 2ch, 5dc) into next st (10dc peak
made), sk 2sts (the first of these is quite well hidden), sc blo in next.** Repeat from *
to ** all round omitting last sc. (40 dcs +8 scs + 4ss + 4 x 6ch sps + 4 x 7 ch sps + 4
x 2ch sp) (See photos.)

R11 Work only into R9 and 10dc peaks on R10 – not into ch sps. 1sc blo in
16th st of R9. Mark the stitch you have just worked into (i.e. 16th st of R9). *Ch 5,
ss in back of marked sts on R7 as above, ch 6, sc blo in 7th st of next side (on R9).
Mark the stitch you have just worked into. Now leave R9 and work into R10
again – sk first st of first side of peak (this is an sc), sc in next 5 (dcs), (1sc, 2ch,
1sc) in 2ch space at apex, sk first dc, sc in next 5. Return to R9 - sk next st, sc blo
in next. Mark the stitch you have just worked into.** Repeat from * to ** all round
omitting last sc. Fasten off. (56 scs + 4 ss + 4 x 5ch sps + 4 x 6ch sps + 4 x 2ch
sps) (See photos.)

© Christine Bateman 2018 christinelbateman@yahoo.com ChrisLudlow on Ravelry

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R12 Rejoin yarn on R11 at apex of any 10dc peak made in the last 2 rounds. *(2dcs,
2ch, 2dcs) in 2ch sp. Sk first (hidden) st, dc in next 6. Now work into R9 - dc blo in
marked st (which already has a st worked into it from R11). Sk 2sts, sc blo in next
st. (Ch 3, ss, ch4) behind corner as before, this time working ss into back of
corner st on R8. Sc blo in 4th st of next side (on R9). Sk 2 sts, dc blo in next
marked st (which already has a st worked into it from R11). Return to R11 - sk first
st, dc in next 6.** Repeat from * to ** all round. (72 dcs + 8 scs + 4 ss + 4 x 3ch sps
+ 4 x 4 ch sps + 4 x 2ch sps) (See photos)

Now you can turn the square through 45° so the original corners become
"peaks" at the centre of each side, and the new corners are formed by the
peaks made in Rs 10, 11 and 12.

R13 Work into R12 except fptrs (1sc, 2ch, 1sc) in 2ch sp at (new) corner. Skip first
(hidden) st, sc in next 2, (fptr around sc of R11 immediately below top of next st (on
the first occasion this will be the 2nd sc on R11), sk next dc behind fptr just worked,
sc in next) x 3, sc in next, working in ch sps behind (new) peak 3 sc in first sp, sk
ss, 3sc in next sp, sc in next 3, (fptr around sc in R11 immediately below next st, sk
next dc behind fptr just worked, sc in next) x 3, sc in next (last st before corner).
Repeat from beginning all round. (84 scs + 24 fptrs + 4 x 2ch sps) (See photo.)

R14 In this round include the first (hidden) st and those worked over ch sps
in previous round. (1sc, 2ch, 1sc) in corner ch sp. Sc in next 13. 1bpsc around both
dcs forming apex in R9 (old corner). Sk next st, sc in next 13. Repeat from beginning
all round. (112 scs + 4 bpscs + 4 x 2ch sps)

R15 (1sc, 2ch, 1sc) in corner ch sp, 1ch, sk first (hidden) st, (1sc, 1ch, sk next st) x
14 to next corner, repeat from beginning all round. (64 scs + 60 x 1ch sps + 4 x 2ch
sps) (See photo.)

R16 Work only into sts, not ch sps (except at corners). (2hdc, 2ch, 2hdc) in
corner ch sp. Sk first (hidden) st, working in front of R15, dc in skipped stitch on R14
immediately below. (hdc in next st on R15, dc in skipped stitch on R14) x 14 to next
corner, sk last st. Repeat from beginning all round. (60 dcs + 72 hdcs + 4 x 2ch sps)

R17 (1sc, 2ch, 1sc) in corner ch sp. Sk first (hidden) st (take care – the stitch top is
very well hidden and looks like part of the turning ch) , sc in every stitch to end of
side. Repeat from beginning all around. (136 scs + 4 x 2ch sps) (See photo.)

R18 (2dc, 2ch, 2dc) in corner ch sp. Sk first (hidden) st and next st, *3dc in next, sk
2 sts**, repeat to end of side omitting last skipped st. Repeat from beginning all
round. (148 dcs + 4 x 2ch sps)

R19 (1sc, 2ch, 1sc) in corner ch sp. Sk first (hidden) st, sc in next 4, *dc in first of 2
skipped sts on R17 immediately below, sk next st (R18), sc in next 2.** Repeat from
* to ** to just before corner 2 sts, sc in last 2. Repeat from beginning all round. (112
scs + 40 dcs + 4 x 2ch sps) (See photo.)

© Christine Bateman 2018 christinelbateman@yahoo.com ChrisLudlow on Ravelry

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For worsted/Aran version only:

R20 Note: there are no corner 2ch sps in this round. (1hdc, 2dcs, 1hdc) in
corner ch sp. Sk first (hidden) st, hdc in every st to end of side. Repeat from
beginning all around. (156hdcs + 8dcs with no corner ch sp.) Fasten off and weave
in ends. (See photo.)

For DK version only:

R20 Sc in corner ch sp. Sk next (hidden) st, 6dcs in next, *sk next 2 sts, sc in next ,
sk next 2 sts, 6dcs in next.** Repeat from * to ** to end of side. Repeat from
beginning all around. (168 dcs + 28 scs with no corner ch sp.) (See photo.)

R21 (2dc, 2ch, 2dc) into corner sc. Sk next 2 sts (first 2 dcs of first 6dc cluster) sc in
next 3, *sk next st, 3dcs in next (this is the sc between clusters), sk next 2 sts, sc in
next 3. ** Repeat from * to ** to last st before corner, sk this st. Repeat from
beginning all round. (88 dcs + 84 scs + 4 x 2ch sps) (See photo.)

R22 Note: there are no corner 2ch sps in this round. (1hdc, 2dcs, 1hdc) in
corner ch sp. Sk next (hidden) st, hdc in next 2, *fpdc in each of 3rd and 4th dc of
6dc cluster immediately below in R20, sk next 2 sts (R21), hdc in next 4.** Repeat
from * to ** to end of side omitting last 2 hdcs. Repeat from beginning all round. (120
hdcs + 56 fpdcs + 8 dcs with no corner ch) (See photo.) Fasten off and weave in
ends.

Finished size can be adjusted if required by omitting the last round, adding
another or scaling the stitches up or down – i.e. from hdcs to dcs and dcs to
trs, or from hdcs to scs and dcs to hdcs respectively. If scaling up you will
need (2dcs, 2trs, 2dcs) at corners. Final stitch count will change accordingly.

Design copyright notice: Please do not share this pattern in any form: online,
by email or in print. You are welcome to make any changes and to use finished
items in any way you like, but if displayed online or offered for sale please
include an acknowledgement and/or link to the original pattern page on
Ravelry. Please do not claim it as your own design! Thank you .

© Christine Bateman 2018 christinelbateman@yahoo.com ChrisLudlow on Ravelry

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Rounds 1 – 7 Rounds 1 – 9 Round 10

Round 10 behind corner Round 10 back view Round 10 front view

Round 11 Round 11 Rounds 1 - 12

Round 12 back view Round 13 detail Rounds 1 - 15

© Christine Bateman 2018 christinelbateman@yahoo.com ChrisLudlow on Ravelry

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Round 17 corner Round 19 corner Round 20 (Aran version)

Round 20 (DK version) Round 21 (DK only) Round 22 (DK only)

Aran/worsted 12" square DK 12" square

Thank you to my wonderful pattern testers – Alice, Diane, Helen, Lara, and Rose.

© Christine Bateman 2018 christinelbateman@yahoo.com ChrisLudlow on Ravelry