Leno Fabric Weaving

Dr. Zuhaib Ahmad

Department of Materials and Testing
National textile University, Faisalabad
 Learning Outcomes

At the end of this Module, you will be able to understand:

• What are the Leno fabrics?

• Applications and properties of Leno fabrics

• Mock Leno
 Leno fabrics
• Unlike conventional weaves warp threads do not run parallel but
twisted around each other about the weft thread. The weft threads
are firmly held by the crossing warp threads, ensuring a uniform
texture.
• This property of firm warp grip around the weft is also used for
gripping the weft thread in shuttleless weaving.
• In light weight woven fabrics the threads are likely to slip aside.
• Due to twisting of warp threads leno fabrics gives rough and harsh
feel. So this cloth is used for bathroom body scrubber.
• Leno fabrics are light weight and have open net-like structure (gauze
type).
 Leno fabrics
• Leno fabrics are widely used in light weight curtains and mosquito nets where air breathability
is of prime importance.
• Leno fabrics are better in sheer curtains due to better dimensional stability as compared to
woven fabrics of the same areal weight.
• Leno fabrics are very good against home laundering as compared to woven fabrics of the same
areal weight.
• They are more permeable to light and air than woven fabrics.
• Leno fabrics are used in filters, fruit and vegetable packing bags, green house sheds,
biomedical bandages, in geo textiles for protection against soil erosion, grinding wheel
reinforcement fabric etc.
Leno Weaving
Leno Weaving
Leno fabrics in geotextiles
Mosquito nets
Higher structural
stability than woven
fabrics
Sheer curtains
Leno/Mesh Weaving
Leno/Mesh Weaving
 Leno fabrics
• Leno fabrics are popular in hats, hair accessories,
scarves, shawls and other decorative elements.
Green house nets geotextiles

Medical filters
Grinding disc (rpm up to
16,000)
 Mock-leno fabric
• Mock lenos, also known as imitation lenos are a variety of weaves of ordinary
construction.
• They produce effects that are similar in appearance to the gauze or leno styles
obtained with the aid of doup mounting
 Half twisted/fully twisted leno
Half twisted leno is also called false twisted leno as if the in-between weft thread is removed the
twist will be removed and both warp threads will become parallel to each other.
Fully twisted leno is like a double yarn, weft being inserted in every twist.
If weft is removed in half twisted leno, the twist will disappear.
If weft is removed in full twisted leno, the twist will still retain.
Seersucker Fabrics
Dr. Zuhaib Ahmad
Department of Materials and Testing
National textile University, Faisalabad
 Seersucker fabrics
• Seersucker is a thin, puckered, all-cotton fabric, commonly striped, used to make clothing for
spring and summer wear.

• The word came into English from Persian, and originates from the words sheer and shakar,
literally meaning "milk and sugar", probably from the resemblance of its smooth and rough
stripes to the smooth texture of milk and the bumpy texture of sugar.

• Seersucker is woven in such a way that some threads bunch together, giving the fabric a
wrinkled appearance in places
 Seersucker fabrics
• One of the best things about this fabric is that it doesn't need ironing (great for
traveling).

• Common items made from seersucker include suits, shorts, shirts, curtains, dresses,
and robes.

• Fabric has minimum contact with the skin forming small air pockets between the
skin and fabric, facilitating air circulation and thus heat/sweat dissipation.
 Weaving of Seersucker fabric
• There are two warp beams are used to manufacture the seersucker
fabric.

• All the tight ends are wrapped on one warp beam.

• Another warp beam is used for loose ends separately.

• The tight beam wears whole warp tension during weaving because the
puckering effect is obtained by loose beam.
 Weaving of Seersucker fabric
• The electrical warp stop motion is always a very big issue in weaving
of seersucker fabric.

• Since we know that the loose warp beam requires very low warp
tension during weaving, therefore these loose ends generate the false
warp break stop during weaving.

• Dobby crossing timing is kept slightly earlier than normal. The shed
opening of loose ends is kept little bit more than normal.

• The puckering of fabric is regulated by warp tension.

• Calculations of Seersucker fabric:

Processing of Seersucker fabric:

• These fabrics are manufactured by using dyed yarn. If we use piece dyeing, the
shades of flat area and puckering area do not match to each other.
• Fabric should be washed in soft flow or winch dyeing machine to avoid distortion
of fabric.
• Puckering pattern may change during dyeing if seersucker fabric comes under
tension. The puckering may be reduced too.
 Seersucker fabrics
European patent: EP 0352791 B1 TSUDAKOMA Corp., 1994

Seersucker in both warp and weft direction

 Recommended Books/Sources
1. Woven terry Fabrics by Jitendra Singh, Swadesh Verma 2017

2. Principles of Woven Fabric Manufacturing, Abhijit Majumdar, 2016

3. Principles of Fabric Formation, Prabir Kumar Banerjee, 2014

4. Fabric Structure and Design by N. Gokarsneshan 2004

5. Hand book of weaving by Sabit Adanur, 1St (2000), CRC Press

6. Research Article and YouTube videos

Stay Safe and Healthy