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A Qualitative Investigation Into Consumption of Halal Cosmetic Products The Evidence From India
A Qualitative Investigation Into Consumption of Halal Cosmetic Products The Evidence From India
www.emeraldinsight.com/1759-0833.htm
JIMA
9,3 A qualitative investigation into
consumption of halal cosmetic
products: the evidence from India
484 Shadma Shahid
Centre for Management Studies, Jamia Millia Islamia, New Delhi, India
Received 30 January 2017
Revised 7 September 2017 Faheem Ahmed
16 September 2017
Accepted 29 September 2017 Jamia Hamdard, New Delhi, India, and
Uzma Hasan
Galgotias Institute of Management and Technology, Greater Noida, India
Abstract
Purpose – India accounts for the third-largest Muslim population in the world after Indonesia and Pakistan. The
previous studies about halal consumption have focused on the “food and money industry” only. Muslim consumers
are prohibited from using alcohol, pork and other items in any form; the rising awareness among Muslims has led to
the rapid growth in demand of halal cosmetic products around the globe. This paper aims to present a framework of
halal consumers’ purchase and explores the factors that Indian consumers consider while buying halal cosmetics.
Design/methodology/approach – The authors carried out qualitative research (focus group discussion
and in-depth interviews) in Delhi, Mumbai and Hyderabad to gain deeper insight from the respondents.
Findings – The study found that religiosity and increasing awareness about halal products acts as an
influencer for individuals’ halal products consumption along with halal certification and growing education
level of Muslim consumers.
Originality/value – The paper has been developed based on the original research work carried out among
the halal Muslim consumers in the major Muslim population in metropolitan cities of Hyderabad, Mumbai
and Delhi over the past year.
Keywords India, Qualitative, Consumer behaviour, Cosmetic products, Halal brands
Paper type Research paper
1. Introduction
Halal means “permissible”, “lawful” and legal for Muslims (Al Jallad, 2008) as per the
Islamic law, while Haram means anything that is prohibited or unlawful (Wilson and Liu,
2010; Shah Alam and Mohamed Sayuti, 2011). In general, halal products are those goods
which do not have pork, alcohol, blood or additives of animal origin, and their production is
isolated from substances considered impure under Islamic law, even cleaning of these
products. Alserhan (2010) says that halal is a religious requirement for Muslim consumers.
It plays a key role in Muslims life indicating a lawful and permissible consumption and
purchase behavior (Rajagopal et al., 2011; Shafie and Othman, 2006).
Today, halal is not limited to “meat and money” but all other matters of daily life and is
rapidly growing to non-food areas (Hanzaee and Ramezani, 2011) like personal care,
Journal of Islamic Marketing
lifestyle, pharmaceutical, cosmetics, travel, tourism, trade, finance, entertainment, work and
Vol. 9 No. 3, 2018
pp. 484-503
education. This untapped sector is undeniably next key market for companies.
© Emerald Publishing Limited The rise of Muslim consumers and their increasing spending power has witnessed an
1759-0833
DOI 10.1108/JIMA-01-2017-0009 exceptional change. The reports (Halal Industry Development Corporation, 2018) estimated the
global halal industry to be worth US$6.4 trillion a year (food and non-food sectors), with the Consumption
global spending of Muslim consumers reaching US$73bn by 2019. Much attention has been on of halal
the prospective growth of halal beauty industry. Today, cosmetics and personal care segment
has emerged as a leading and fastest growing segment. In 2012, the expenditure of Muslim
cosmetic
consumers’ on cosmetics was $26bn, with estimated growth at $39bn by 2018 (Report by State products
of the Global Islamic Economy, 2013). This segment has seen an immense support by growing
Muslim population and their willingness to spend on beauty products consumption, fueling the
interest in the Muslim beauty industry resulting in the change in attitude of female Muslim 485
consumers. Technavio estimated the consumers’ expenditure on halal cosmetics to be $27bn
which could rise to $39bn by 2019, showing a great potential of growth by this market.
India is a large and culturally diversified country with different religious beliefs and
consumption patterns (Eng and Bogaert, 2010). India’s beauty and hygiene industry
currently is estimated at $8 billion, and it is expected to grow at a rate of 10 per cent to $10
billion by 2021 (June 2017 report by the Indian Beauty and Hygiene Association, Bain and
Co and Google India). Brands like CavinKare, Daawat, Bikano, Goldwinner oil, Vadilal ice
cream, Amrutanjan Healthcare and Gujrat Ambuja Exports are some Indian brands that
have obtained halal certification. For cosmetic and personal care market, brands like Iba,
BodyShop, Shehnaz Herbals, Aroma Magic, Himalaya products, Vicco, Biotique and Lotus
are trying to fill the gap for the vegan and halal consumers.
Little is known about the functioning of consumers in Indian market. No consumer behavior
text has been found focusing on roughly 172 million Indian Muslim (Census, 2011) consumers
accessible for study and review. This research is done to get an understanding on the
consumers purchase intention and awareness toward halal cosmetics products. Mostly, the
halal branding studies have taken place in Malaysia and gulf countries. The authors found
dearth of information about the factors that influence consumers’ attitude formation toward
halal cosmetics in India, so this paper tries to cover this untapped market by empirically
examining the key factors that contribute Indian Muslims consumers to shift their focus
toward halal cosmetic products and what lead to this attitude formation toward halal
consumption. There are many theories that could help in detection of consumers purchasing
behavior, but the authors decided to review only those factors that were obtained through the
interview process with Indian consumers so that they can understand the Indian consumers
which are considered to be different from the Muslim consumers living in Muslim countries.
2. Literature review
Halal signifies safety of ingredients and the process in making the product. Halal cosmetics
sale has seen an increased use by consumers who want to wear safe make-up and lessen the
harm to their skin cause by non-halal ingredients like alcohol, gelatin and pig fat.
Because of the rising awareness level of Muslim population (Grand View Research, 2017)
these consumers are looking for halal certification in their cosmetic products along with
clean, healthy and safe production in line with the Islamic law. A study by Eze et al. (2012)
revealed that as consumers are becoming more educated and well informed; they are more
concerned about the quality, image and product knowledge rather that the price of the
product. They are willing to pay a premium price for halal products (Hussin et al., 2013).
The past research on halal branding is limited to halal food products with few studies about
halal cosmetics, though there seem to be no such work done on Indian consumers. As halal
products have seen an increased demand in the world market, this study attempts to capture the
factors influencing the consumers toward purchasing halal cosmetics. Therefore, all the important
explanations backed up by past literature grounded a theory for this research to investigate the
factors that play an important role in Indian Muslim women consumers purchase behavior.
JIMA 2.1 Halal cosmetics
9,3 Cosmetic is defined as treatment intended to restore or improve a person’s appearance or
things intended to be used on human body especially face for cleansing, beautifying and
changing the appearance. Cosmetic is defined as “any preparation, which is applied to the
skin, eyes, mouth, hair or nails for the purpose of cleansing, enhancing appearance, giving a
pleasant smell or giving protection” (de Groot and White, 2001). According to Federal Food,
486 Drug and Cosmetic Act, cosmetics are defined by their intended use, as “articles intended to
be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on, introduced into, or otherwise applied to the
human body for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the
appearance”. Patton (2009), said that market for halal cosmetics is growing, as Muslims are
looking out for halal, high quality and safe products (Grand View Research, 2017).
4. Methodology
This study was exploratory in nature and the researcher used qualitative method to attain
the research objective. Qualitative research was found appropriate for this study, as the
researcher wanted to gain an in-depth knowledge and explore a new area and insights of
study (Sutton and Austin, 2015) as this would enable the respondents to put forward their
views and thoughts. We conducted two primary researches (focus group discussion and in- Consumption
depth interview) to answer our research objectives along with gaining additional of halal
information regarding halal cosmetic products.
cosmetic
4.1 Study 1 products
The consumer-based research has seen an extensive use of focus group discussions in
development of theory and testing research concepts to learn consumer behavior, ideas,
opinions, attitude and intention. Focus group research was found to be appropriate to attain
489
the objectives of this study. This method is useful for investigating people’s knowledge and
experience and in creating a free flow of ideas (Kitzinger, 1995). This technique enhances the
researcher’s potential to work in natural environment providing significant and deep
understanding of their work (Malhotra and Dash, 2011).
4.1.1 Sampling. In total, five focus group discussions (summarized in Table I) were
carried out in three metropolitan cities in India namely Delhi, Mumbai and Hyderabad to
achieve the objective of the study. Delhi was selected as it is a mature market and witnesses
a diverse culture and background of consumers, Hyderabad accounts for high Muslim
population (to other religion ratio) and Mumbai being the financial capital of India.
Each focus group had 8-10 respondents participating in the discussion. A total of 42 participants
in age group 18-35 years were selected for the study who gave their valuable insight. Demographic
profile of the respondent is shown in Table II. Individuals across the three cities were requested for
confirmation on their participation following which the venue and time were informed to them.
4.1.2 Protocol. The protocol was developed by the authors based on the literature review
about consumers’ attitude and purchase intention toward halal cosmetic products. The
discussion was divided into three phases. The first part of the discussion tried to capture the
general views of consumers’ perception about halal products. The question was related to
halal concept, insight about halal cosmetic, famous halal cosmetics brands and desire
associated with halal cosmetics purchase. The second phase of the discussion focused on
core objectives. It was related to awareness and knowledge about cosmetics, reasons to buy
halal products, importance of halal certification and feeling and emotions after using halal
cosmetics brands. It also focused on the factors and processes driving consumers’ purchase
of halal cosmetics. The third and final phase was related to the future of halal brands in
India. The discussion was related to hurdles and complexities faced by Indian consumers.
4.1.3 Focus group discussions. The focus group sessions were organized at a location
found suitable for all the participants. Based on convenience sampling, only those female
participants were included who agreed that they have purchased halal cosmetic products in
the past year. The sessions were moderated by the authors to maintain the quality and to
capture the essential insights from the discussion. The discussion in every session lasted for
60 min with 20 min for the first phase and 40 min for the second phase. All enquiries and
questions of the respondents were answered by the end of the discussion with refreshments
served during the sessions. All the focus group sessions were audio recorded and transcripts
were developed for analysis. The thematic analysis was done for this research.
4.2 Study 2
A second study was also conducted, using in-depth interviews technique to understand the
growing consumption and awareness of halal cosmetic products. The aim of this research was
to explore the awareness, religiosity, modernity, need for beauty in halal cosmetic product
consumption. This methodology gives a deep and clear perspective of participants on the
research topic. The FGD’s study provided with the material and questions to be discussed.
4.2.1 Sampling. For more information this study was conducted among female halal
cosmetic consumers in Delhi, Mumbai and Hyderabad. Women were selected as they are the key
consumers of cosmetic products and we wanted to know the factors and reasons for their halal
brands consumption over other brands. In total, 26 female consumers (Tables I and II) who were
the actual buyers and users of halal cosmetics products were interviewed for this study.
4.2.2 Protocol. Interview guidelines were based on the research objective, previous
literature and findings from Study 1. The questions for the study were reviewed by the
experts and finalized. The questions were related to consumers’ perception and awareness of
halal cosmetic products, permissible and haram ingredients, purchase drivers, elements of
decision making. The main reason for in-depth interview was to get a deeper insight into the
information left untouched during the focus group study.
4.2.3 Conducting interviews. A total of 26 in-depth interviews were conducted. Each
interview lasted for 40-60 min approximately and was carried out by the authors. First, we
discussed about the halal products and brands. This gave us insight into the awareness and
knowledge of the respondents along with their consumption of halal, halal brands were discussed
along with consumers’ perception, desire and association with halal products. Then, to capture
the respondents’ views, we discussed about the motives and, finally, the growth in this market.
With prior consent of the respondents, all interviews were audio recorded to prepare
transcripts.
The authors used thematic analysis and conducted word-by-word analysis; codes, categories
and themes were constructed after grouping and comparing (Strauss and Corbin, 1998).
halal products. Respondents mentioned that they want to buy halal cosmetic products for
high quality and Shariah compliance along with healthy and clean products.
“We need to buy these products because it is our religious requirement and we have to
abide by it. We need to be particular about what we consume (24, Female, Delhi)”.
These consumers are well informed as one of the respondents highlighted the harmful
effect of ingredients that are prohibited.
“Halal products do not include alcohol, as alcohol dries up the skin. Most of the face
washes and make-up removers and cleansers contain alcohol. Alcohol speeds up the aging
process and can lead to skin-related problems (29, female, Hyderabad)”.
They look out for healthy lifestyle along with safety benefits. These respondents also
exhibited their knowledge about the ingredients that are prohibited in Islam and are
included in the cosmetic products.
“I only use halal products as the ingredients in the daily make-up we consume tend to
penetrate in our skin without us being aware about it (22, Female, Hyderabad)”.
The study found out that going through the full list of ingredients is an effortful process
and trying to ascertain whether the ingredients used are permissible also requires a certain
level of knowledge.
“It took me quiet sometime to learn which ingredients in the products I use are haram as
per the Shariah guidelines (22, Female, Mumbai)”.
Some respondents said that:
Going through the ingredient list is very complicated by the fact that ingredients often go by
industry codes (e.g., carmine, a red dye, uses the code C.I. 75470, or E120) which consumers may
not recognize (24, Female, Delhi).
Unless the consumer does not have the knowledge about the product and its ingredients it’s Consumption
very difficult for them to know whether the products they are consuming is halal or not. of halal
So, in such scenarios, deep knowledge about the products, brands and what ingredients
they use, information about permissible and prohibited products becomes necessary:
cosmetic
products
P1. Increase in knowledge acts as an antecedent of halal cosmetic consumption in
impacting their evaluation of alternatives and final purchase choice.
493
I do not have to wait for my foreign trip or my relatives returning as many companies even ship
their products to India and these brands are available online (24, Female, Delhi).
In this case, it was found that because of unavailability of halal brands people in India
switch to herbal or organic products or buy online and even consult sales people during their
purchase about the ingredients. These consumers are shown to be very loyal to their
religious beliefs.
5.7.3 Final decision. The consumers’ final choice of the product was dependent on all the
parameters met by the cosmetic brand they have to buy. These consumers said that they
buy the products according to the Shariah law. Therefore, price is not important factor for
them. These consumers showed willingness to pay more.
“I will pay extra money for halal products then to consume prohibited products. For me
religious values are more important (24, Female, Hyderabad)”.
Moreover, respondents were ready to pay higher price in India if the product is halal
certified:
We pay higher price for halal certified products abroad as it is a necessity for us as per our religion,
so if these brands are available in India we would not shy away paying more (27, Female, Delhi).
One of the respondents said that:
On my recent visit to Canada I bought a nail paint form ‘tuesdayinlove’ and though it was costly
still I feel so happy and satisfied using it as its halal (26, Female, Mumbai).
In the market of halal cosmetics there are many brands and products that claim that the
cosmetics products are water permissible and wudhu can be performed wearing them. This
brought a sigh of relief to many Muslim consumers as they found beauty with faith and no
compromise with the religion:
P6. The consumer buying process has three stages: Hurdles, Alternatives, Final
buying.
P7. Hurdles were found to influence the alternatives available.
6. Discussions
Muslim population around the world is grabbing attention either because of their religious
beliefs or political views or their practices and role in the society and even because of the
geographical happenings (Wilson, 2014). This study has contributed in the creation of a
comprehensive framework of halal cosmetic products buying behavior within a country
which is reported (by Wikipedia) to have the third-largest Muslim population in the world.
The present study incorporates consumer perspective form different parts of the country. It
adds to the literature of halal buying behavior.
The present study findings indicate that the motivational factors act as an antecedent to
support the model and previous research done on similar lines (binti Rahim et al., 2015; Yeo et
al., 2016). The major motivation behind halal cosmetic consumption was found to be driven by
religiosity. It matches with the literature (Ahmad et al., 2015; Majid et al., 2015) where
consumers’ attitude is found to be influenced by their religious beliefs. Other motivational
JIMA Movaons Buying Process Actual Purchase
9,3
P5
COO
P6
498
Knowledge Obstacles
P1 P7
Awareness P2
Alternaves P8 Actual P9 Post
P3 Consumpon Consumpon
Religiosity
P4
Halal Cerficaon/ Final Decision
Logo
Figure 1.
Conceptual model
factors include increase in knowledge, growing awareness about halal products and finally
halal certification of brands. The consumers all across the country showed a similar pattern of
halal consumption. Though the awareness among Muslim consumers about the halal cosmetic
products is low (Hamdan et al., 2013) as compared to halal food, beverages and finance but still
a growing pattern is seen (Majid et al., 2015); the reason being the increase in the use of social
media and growing purchasing power of Muslim consumers. The respondents mentioned
about their unawareness about such products earlier, but now with the advancement in their
knowledge and living pattern and their willingness to adapt to the healthy lifestyle, they are
becoming aware about the prohibited and harmful ingredients.
The study findings suggest a three-step buying process:
(1) obstacles faced;
(2) alternative choice available; and
(3) final decision.
The consumers across all cities were found to face several hurdles such as non-availability of halal
brands and sales people having no information and knowledge about the halal and haram
ingredients. This is a novel finding and may be unique for a country like India where Islam
followers are third largest in the world. Consumers in all the three cities studied were found to have
a good knowledge of halal cosmetic brands and haram ingredients in other cosmetic products
before making the purchase. Nonetheless, the impact of their religious beliefs was found to be high
when the consumer bought the product. This is in accordance with the previous study on the role
of religiosity on purchase decision (Abd Rahman et al., 2015; Rezai et al., 2012). Interestingly, while
making the final purchase, price was not found as a key determinant for these consumers.
The data analysis was full of words like “religion”, “beauty”, “modernity”, “fulfillment”,
“necessity” and “way of life”, which suggested that Indian consumers do not want to compromise
with religion but want to follow the latest trends while buying halal brands. Additionally, country
of origin was found to be important moderator of halal purchase. This is because of the fact that
few Islamic standards are established when it comes to the halal cosmetics and that too are
followed only in certain Muslim countries strictly. The study found that the brands that were
made in countries like Turkey, Malaysia, Dubai, Saudi were perceived to be halal even if it did not Consumption
have any certification or logo. But consumers purchasing brands produced from the UK, the of halal
USA, France showed a detailed search along with halal certification. Consumers have also shown
changing their purchase decision in the absence of halal certification or logo. This is referred to
cosmetic
the fact that these consumers believe that halal certification means proper standards of Islamic products
laws are followed (Majid et al., 2015). These differences contribute to a novel finding because
previous work has not focused on the impact of country of origin in buying process.
The consumers were found to be loyal toward the brands they purchase because of the
499
trust and confidence these brands have showcased. They spread positive word-of-mouth.
These consumers were found to be fully satisfied with the brands they use as they feel that
along with beauty they are following their religious beliefs. Thus, helps in establishing a
strong satisfaction – loyalty relationship. They have also shown willingness to continue to
purchase the same brands again and again.
To sum up, the findings of this study allowed us to come up with antecedents and
consequences model of halal brands buying behavior and develop a framework from the
consumers’ view point. The key findings from the study were that the Indian consumers had
shown the knowledge and awareness about halal products and brands. The present study
supported the notion of halal consumption being influenced by religious beliefs of the individual.
7. Managerial implication
The present study on halal branding is from the consumers’ perspective. This study on
Indian halal product market has a huge potential to attract the Muslim consumers who are
well known about their religion and well-educated, which has enabled the consumers to buy
halal. The increasing use of social media such as Twitter, Instagram and Facebook has
resulted in growing awareness among the Muslim consumers about the halal brands and
the importance of consumption of these products in their life.
The major findings from the consumers’ side suggest that the marketers have to focus on
this niche market and try to establish brands to cater to these consumers. A marketer has to
take into account the consumers religious belief and halal certification and logo to attract the
customers. The marketers should focus on advertisement in raising the awareness among
other potential consumers about such brands. Emphasis on the foreign visits and religious
beliefs could deter individual from consuming other products that are not halal. The most
important points that need to be addressed is non-availability of halal brands in India which
makes it highly challenging for the marketers to capture this market.
As Wilson and Grant (2013) stated that Islamic marketing is “filtered through more worldly
actors and activities by Muslims and non-Muslims alike”, so the icing on the cake for halal
marketers could be that non-Muslim consumers and vegan lovers are also on the lookout for
brands that are positioned as “natural, vegetarian, and healthy”. There are non-Muslims
Indians looking to go beyond “natural”, searching for products that align with their ethics.
Halal and vegan products being on same side has only sweetened the deal for these consumers.
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labelled manufactured food in Malaysia”, Pertanika Journal of Social Sciences & Humanities,
Vol. 3 No. 1, pp. 33-42.
Corresponding author
Shadma Shahid can be contacted at: shadma137941@st.jmi.ac.in
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