Standard Size Weebee Doll – Princess Mod Kit

Text and images by Laura Tegg, all rights reserved.

Finished products created with this pattern may be used for commercial sale.
Design credit should be given to Laura Tegg when finished products are listed for sale.

You can find my all of my Weebee doll patterns plus lots of clothing patterns for them from here:
http://www.ravelry.com/designers/laura-tegg
Notes for making your Doll Clothing
I have tried very hard to make my clothing patterns as versatile as possible. In theory as long as
you use the same type of yarn e.g. acrylic, cotton etc., the same brand of yarn, the same weight of
yarn and the same hook size, the clothing should fit your dolls. However, some people have
commented that they have a tendency to stuff their dolls very, very firmly (one person said ‘like a
brick’) and a lot of people use cotton yarn too which doesn’t have much give. If this is you, you
may not be able to manipulate your dolls into the clothing as easily as I can, as although I stuff my
dolls firmly I don’t stuff them so firmly that I cannot pull and/or push them into the clothing with
ease. I also use acrylic yarn for my dolls and their clothing which has a lot of stretch to it.
Therefore If you tend to stuff your dolls very firmly, so that that the dolls body has very little give or
use cotton yarn, it is highly recommended that you go up at least a hook size when make the
clothing within this pattern. I have noted in the pattern when there is a good point at which to try
the pieces on before you work any further, so that you can rework what you have done so far if
you need to.
Useful info for those who crochet left handed
Please take a look at this site for hints and tips about following crochet patterns if you are left
handed https://www.anniescatalog.com/crochet/content.html?content_id=554&type_id=T
Now you can also join a Facebook page dedicated to Weebee – I like to post sneak peaks of new
patterns and host the odd CAL or two there too! Everyone welcome!
https://www.facebook.com/groups/1590618731240406/
This free pattern has only been tested by myself and I have made every effort to ensure that it is
error free but if you find any errors whatsoever in this pattern please do not hesitate to contact me
via private message on Ravelry or Facebook and I will amend as soon as my three year old will
allow 
Facebook https://www.facebook.com/Lollys-Crafty-Crochet-107955012662245/
Ravelry http://www.ravelry.com/people/LollysCC
Terminology: US Abbreviations Cont/d… Abbreviations Cont/d…
Double Crochet (dc) Skip (skp)
Other items needed:
Half double crochet (hdc) Stitch (st)
Stitch marker
Loop (lp) Slip Stitch (sl st)
Tapestry needle
Magic ring (MR) Yarn Over (yo)
Next (nxt)
Abbreviations: Round (rnd)
Back loop only (blo) Single Crochet (sc)
Chain (ch) Space (sp)
Which yarns did I use for my doll and clothing?
Not a recommendation as such, it’s just because I get asked this a lot. We don’t have much
choice here in the UK yarn wise, Stylecraft is my absolute favourite brand here though, lovely to
work with and reasonably priced 
Special Stitches
Invisible single crochet decrease
Sc2tog: Insert hook in front loop only of first st, insert hook in front loop only of second st (3 lps on
hook), yo and draw through 2 lps, yo and complete sc as normal. Link to Youtube video (useful
from 1min 48 in): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8HWGl0Ah-Y0
Invisible half double crochet decrease
Hdc2tog: Yo as you normally would for an hdc. Insert your hook into the front loop only of the
next stitch, then insert your hook into the front loop only of the next stitch and yo. Pull through the
two front loops. Yo and pull through the three remaining loops.
V Stitch
V-st: Hdc, ch1, hdc into same st.
Front Post Half Double Crochet
Fphdc: Yo hook, insert hook under post of st. Yo pull up a loop - three loops on hook, yo hook,
pull through all loops on hook. Helpful video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wu-V-UJYY3M
Front Post Half Double Crochet Decrease
Fphdc2tog: (Yo, insert hook from front to back around post of next hdc, yo, draw up a loop) 2
times, yo, pull through all loops on hook.
Special Techniques
Steps for the Perfect Colour Change
Before starting the next round in the pattern:
1. Change yarn colour
2. Sl st loosely around the work into the back loops only of each st in the last round
3. Then work the next round of the pattern as directed into the back loops of those sl sts
Working into Back Bumps of Starting Chain
This blog page explains it well: http://www.myhobbyiscrochet.com/2014/02/the-back-bump-behind-
chain-crochet.html Or you can see a video of the technique here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=igwKXFP89zs
Pattern Start
Doll Body Mods
To complete this pattern you will need a copy of the Weebee Standard Size Baby Doll which can
be found here: http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/weebee-standard-size-baby-doll

Mod for Legs, Body and Head

Work rounds 1 – 10 of above mentioned Weebee Standard Sized Baby Doll pattern with colour
chosen for shoes.
Then change to skin tone colour using the method above under ‘Special Techniques’ and work
rounds 11 – 15.
Change to yarn colour for underwear if choosing to do so using the same method as before and
continue to follow the pattern instructions for rounds 16 – 22.
Change yarn back to skin tone and continue to follow the pattern instructions for rounds 23 – 61.

Mods for Hands and Arms

Start with chosen colour for gloves and complete rounds 1 – 10.
Using special colour change method as in Special Techniques change yarn colour to skin tone
and work rounds 11 – 15 of pattern.

Hair
Princess Hair Cap
Rnd 1: MR, ch3 (counts as a dc from now on) work 10dc, join last st to top of ch3 with a sl st
(11sts)
Rnd 2: Ch3, dc in same st, 2dc in each st around, join last st to top of ch3 with a sl st (22sts)
Rnd 3: Ch3, *2dc in next st, dc in next st, repeat from * around, ending with 2dc in last st, join last
st to top of ch3 with a sl st (33sts)
Rnd 4: Ch3, dc in next st,*2dc next st, dc in next 2 sts*, repeat from * around, ending with 2dc in
last st, join last st to top of ch3 with a sl st (44sts)
Rnd 5: Ch3, dc in next 2 sts,* 2dc in next st, dc in next 3 sts * around, ending with 2dc in last st,
join last st to top of ch3 with a sl st (55sts)
Rnd 6: Ch3, dc in each st around, join last st to top of ch3 with a sl st (55sts)
Rnd 7 - 10: Ch3, dc into blo in each stich around, join last st to top of ch3 with a sl st (55st)
Rnd 11: Ch1 (not a st), hdc into back loop only of each stich around, join last st to top of ch2 with
a sl st (55st)
Fasten off leaving a long tail.
Using a darning needle use tail to weave in and out up the join to round 6, pull to gather, then use
the needle wrap the yarn around the gather several times until you are happy with how it looks,
sew cap to head using a whip st in desired way and then hide any loose ends.
Bun
Rnd 1: MR, ch1 (not a st from now on) work 11hdc, join last st to top of first with a sl st (11sts)
Rnd 2: Ch1, 2hdc in blo of each st around, joining last st to top of first with a sl st (22sts)
Rnd 3: Ch1, hdc in blo of first st, *2hdc in blo of next st, hdc in blo of next st, repeat from * around
ending with 2hdc in blo of last st, join last st to top of first with a sl st (33sts)
Rnd 4: Ch1, hdc in blo of first two sts, *2hdc in blo of next st, hdc in blo of next 2 sts*, repeat from
* around, ending with 2hdc in last st, join last st to top of first with a sl st (44sts)
Rnds 5 & 6: Ch1, hdc in back loop only of each st around (forms a small cup shape) (44sts)
Sl st around and fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing to middle of cap.
Stuff lightly and sew stitches on edge of cup to the stitches on the hair cap.

Dress
Bodice
Starting with yarn chosen for main dress (peach in example) ch39, join last ch to first with a sl st,
being careful not to twist the chain.
Rnd 1: Ch1 (not a st from now on), sc into each st around, join last st to first with a sl st (39sts)
Rnd 2: Ch1, sc into each st around, join last st to first with a sl st (39sts)
Rnd 3: Ch1, *8 sc, sc2tog (see special stitches for invisible decrease), repeat from * 2 more times,
sc in remaining 9 sts, joining last st to first with a sl st (35sts)
Rnds 4 & 5: Sc in each st around, joining last st to first with a sl st (35sts)
Change to accent colour using colour change method in the Special Techniques at the start of this
pattern (white used in example).
Rnd 7: Ch1, sc 6, ch6 (first arm sp made), skp 5 sts, sc 13, ch6 (second arm sp made), skp 5 sts,
sc in each of the remaining 6 sts, joining last st to first with a sl st (25 sc & 2 6ch sps)
Rnd 8: Ch1, sc into each st and ch around, joining last st to first with a sl st (37sc)
Sl st loosely around to neaten the edge.
Fasten off and hide any loose ends.
Skirt
Turn bodice upside down and attach accent yarn colour to back of work (white in example)
Rnd 1: Ch1, sc into each st around (37sc)
Change to main colour using same special technique as before (peach in example).
Rnd 2: Ch3 (counts as hdc, ch1), hdc into same st (hdc, ch1, hdc – v-st made), *hdc into next two
sts, v-st into next st, repeat from * around, working hdc2tog over last 2 sts, joining last st to top of
ch2 in starting 3ch (13 pattern reps of v-st, 2 hdcs)
Rnd 3: Sl st into centre ch1 of first v-st, ch2 (counts as a hdc from now on), hdc, ch2, 2hdc all in
ch1 sp of same v-st, *fphdc (see special stitches at start of pattern) over each of next 2 sts, work
2hdc, ch2, 2hdc (shell made) all in ch1 of next v-st, repeat from * around ending with fphdc over
each of last 2 sts, join last st to top of starting ch2 with a sl st (13 pattern reps of shell, 2 fphdc)
Rnds 4 - 6: Sl st into ch2 sp of first shell, ch2, hdc, ch2, 2hdc all in same ch2 sp of first shell,
*fphdc over each of next 2 sts. Work shell in ch2 sp of next shell, repeat from * around, ending
with fphdc over each of last 2 sts, join last st to top of starting ch2 with a sl st (13 pattern reps of
shell, 2 fphdcs)
Rnd 7: Sl st into ch2 sp of first shell, ch2, hdc, ch2, 2hdc all in same ch2 sp of first shell,
*fphdc2tog (see special stitches at start of pattern), shell in ch2 sp of next shell, repeat from *
around, ending with fphdc2tog, join last st to top of starting ch2 with a sl st (13 pattern reps of
shell, fphdc)
Rnd 8: Sl st into centre of first shell, ch2, hdc, ch2, 2hdc all in ch2 sp of first shell, *fphdc, work
shell in ch2 sp of next shell, repeat from * around, ending with fphdc, join last st to top of starting
ch2 with a sl st (13 pattern reps of shell, 1 fphdc)
Fasten off and change colour to accent yarn (white in example) in ch2 space of first shell.
Rnd 9: Ch1 (not a st), 6hdc all in ch2 sp of first shell, *sl st in top of fphdc, 6hdc all in ch2 sp of
next shell, repeat from * around, ending with a sl st in last fphdc and then by joining last sl st to top
of starting first with a sl st (13 scallops)
Fasten off and hide any loose ends.

Hair Bow
Ch25, join last ch to first with a sl st, being careful not to twist the ch.
Rnds 1 – 3: Ch1 (not a st), hdc into each st around, join last st to first with a sl st (25sts)
Fasten off, leaving a good long tail.
Take the tail and wrap it many times around the circle to create the centre of the bow. Secure the
tail and use it to attach it to the back of the bun, shaping the bow a little as you do so (see back of
doll in photo on first page).

Crown
Using gold or silver thread you can embroider or crochet a crown like shape onto the front of the
head.
Alternatively…
Members of the Weebee Appreciation Society Facebook group have said they have used this free
pattern successfully to make their crowns commenting that they followed the pattern but adjusted
their hook size and the chain length so that it fit around their princess’s heads
https://irarott.com/Free_Princess_Crown_Tiara_Crochet_Pattern.html

I hope you have enjoyed completing this pattern!

Be sure to share your Weebee’s with us on the
Weebee Appreciation Society Facebook Page (link on first page)
and to add your project to Ravelry!