rmJ AMERICAN

HORTICULTURAL
- SOCIETY -

The Fully Illustrated

Plant-by-Plant Manual
of Practical Techniques
~

ALAN TOOGOOD Editor-in-chief

 AMERICAN
HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY

PLANT
PROPAGATION
 AMERICAN
HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY

ALAN TOOGOOD
Editor-in -chief

PE"fER ANDERSON
Photography

DK PUBLISH1NG, INC.
www.dk.com
 g CONTENTS
A DK PUBLISHING BOOK
www.dk.co1n How TO USE THIS BOOK 6
PROJfCT EDITOR ANNELISE EVANS

~~
:r: · . w-1
PROJECT ART EDITOR CLARE SHEDDEN
US EDITOR RAY ROGERS -:1
... -- .. --- -
-<-• . •
...
EDITORIAL ASSISTANT MARTHA SWIFT
DESIGN ASSISTANT FAY SINGER INTRODUCTION 8
OTP DESIGNER MATTHEW GREENFIEI D
MANAGING EDITOR LOUISE ABBOTT
L EARN ING FROM NATURE 10
MANAG ING ART EDITOR LEE GRIFFll 115 PROPAGAT ION IN THE PAST 12
PRODUCTION PATRICIA HARRINGTON M ODERN PROPAGATION 14
ILLUSTRATIONS KAREN COCIIRANE
CHt\PTER O PENING MOT1FS 5ARAII Yot:NC,
S EXUAL INCREASE OF PLANTS 16
V EGETATIVE PROPAGATION 22
SPECIAL TIIANKS TO TIIE !>lAFI' AT
TIIE ROYAi. HORTICULTURAi SoCIETY AND TO T OOLS AND EQU IPM ENT 2$
DR. H. M,\RC C,HIIEY, AMERIC,\N l·IORTI_CULTURAL SOCIFTI'
SO Ii_$ AND G RO'vVI NG MED IA 32
PROPAGATION IN DIFFERENT CLIMAT ES 36
TH E PROPAGAT ION ENVIRONMENT 38
P LANT PROBLEMS 46

GARDEN TREES 48
First ,\mcrican edition, 1999
2•68109753 TAKING CUTTINGS 50
P\lbll.shtd m the Un11ed Slates b)'
DK Publl.slung, Inc SO\>llNG SEE DS 53
95 Ma<hson Avenue. Ntw York 10016
Co1>ynght C, 1999 Oorhng Kmderslcy L1m1ted, Lond,m GRAFTING AND BUDDING 56
All rilttus re$tt'\'cd under lruemauornd and P:in-t\mencan Co1>rrigln Convcnunn<.
No p.1rt of 1h15 publlcauon ma)' be rtprOduccd, -s1orcd ma rC"lne\ ;al sys1cm. 01
1
LAYERING 64
tran.sm1ucd rn any form or by :ir1>" mt.·.ans, dcciromc. mcc hamcal. J>ho1t.w..Op)'mi,
retordmg, o r odu:rwtSt. \\1thou11he pnor wnnen pcrm1s.s1on or the copyngh1
PALMS 65
owner Published m Grea1 Oru:11n by l>orlmg K,ndtn,ltr l.uni1ed
CYCADS 68
Library c,f Congrts:. Ca1:1loging•in-rubl1c,1.1ion Oa1a
Amcncan llomcu ltur.al Soc1t"l)'
Pfant propagauon / eduor.111--ducf, Alan Tovgood. ·· ht Ameri<:o\n ed.
CON IFE RS 70
p. cm
8

Amer1can tlorucuhurnl Soc1tty. 8 A-Z OF GARDEN TREES 74

lndudt'" md('x
ISB:< 0 -7894-•I 16-0 (alk paper)
I Planl prop.1.gauon I Tooiood. Alan R
S8l 19.P7H 19')9 98-3893)
635"0H--<lc21 <;JP

LEGAi. :-:o ncr

Some namtd cult1,·ar, are 1>ro1tc1cd under pl:im pattnt law~.
CardC"ncrs arc free 10 propa,gatt' such plams for 1hC"1r c1" n purJ'IOSCS.
but tt is 1llcg,1I 10 propagate 1hcm for co111nwrci,1I galn Protcc1t•d
plams arc usual!)' 1nd1c~tcd on the nurser)' tag o r labtl

Color rtproduc11on b)' GRB Ed11ncc. Veron:i. Italy

Printed and bound b)' Si:u S1andard. Smgapore
 ~.
•
\ • ~ · 1.:
...... .
·f: . . ..
SHRUBS AND CACTI AND OTHER
CLIMBING PLANTS 92 SUCCULENTS 230
TAKING CUTTINGS 94 SOWING SEEDS 232
101
D IVISION D IVISION 234
SOWLNG SEEDS 102 TAKING CUTTINGS 236
lAYERlNG 105 GRAFTING 239
GRAFTING 108 A-Z OF CACTI AND
HEATHS AND HEATHERS 110 OTHER SUCCULENTS 242
R OSES 112
A-Z OF SHRUBS AND CLIMBING PLANTS 118

BULBOUS PLANTS 252

•
;,,

PERENNIALS 146
~
,
' DIVISION
SOWING
254
SEEDS 256
148
D lVlSlON SCALING AND CHIPPING 258
SOW ING SEEDS 151 A - Z OF BULBOUS PLANTS 260

TAKING CUTTINGS 154

FERNS 159
ALPINE PLANTS 164
WAT ER GARDEN PLANTS 168 VEGETABLES 280
BROMELIADS 172 SOWING SEEDS 282
ORNAMENTAL GRASSES 175 CULINARY HERBS 287
ORCHIDS 178 A-Z OF VEGETABLES 292
A-Z OF PERENNIALS 186

GLOSSARY 3 10
I NDEX 3 11
A C KNO\¥ LEDGMENTS 320
ANNUALS
AND BIENNIALS 214
SOWING SEEDS 216
A -Z OF ANNUALS AND BIENNIALS 220

5
 ,
HO\.V TO USE THI S BOOK

How TO USE THIS BOOK

his book opens \vith a general introduction to plant
T propagation, explai ning how practical techniques
were, and continue to be, developed; how they relate to
natural ways of plant reproduction; the influence of the
clirnate and the propagation environ1nent; ho\v to use
appropriate tools, equipn1ent, and growing rnedia; and
co1n 1non problen1s affecting propagated n1aterial.
The chapters that follow explain practical techniques
and are arranged according to plant type: these adhere
to botanical classification, so that each chapter discusses
only true 1ne1nbers of the type. For exan1ple, short-lived
perennial plants grown as annuals rnay be found in the
Perennials chapter. Woody cli1nbing plants are included
\Vith shrubs, to which they are closely associated. Other
climbe rs n1ay be bulbous, annuals, or succulents and
are discussed in relevant chapters. Fruits also fall into
various plant groups, suc h as perennials, shrubs, and
trees. The Bulbous Plants chapter covers conns, bulbs,
and tubers; few rhizo1nes are true storage organs, so
rhizomatous plants appear in the Perennials chapter.
Alpine and water garden plants are artificial groupings
based on their cultivation; since 1nost such plants are
perennials, they are featured in the Perennials chapter.
Culinary herbs are included in the Vegetables chapter;
other herbs are described where relevant.
Each practical chapter begins with basic techniques
specific to the plant type in question and then details
the finer points of propagation of many genera, plant
by plant. Features on special-i nterest plants also appear
in these chapters. Some popular genera with diverse
habits (for exa,nple, some species may be trees, others
shrubs) may have entries in rnore than one chapter.
PROPAGATION TECHNIQUE RATINGS
The rating sys1em in 1he plan1-by-pla,11 A- Z dic1ionaries provides
the reader with a quick reference to the relative ease or difficulty of
each me,hod of propagation 1ha1 is lis1ecl for any particular genus.
The ratings are as follows:
l easy li moderme lll challenging

BASIC TECHNIQUES Photogra11hic gallery su,,plt-menta,y

Sw11d,,r,Ji~ctl l1auJings in illustrcitrs rm1ge of ilJu~1tmfo11s <Irani
Each chapter has a dc1ailed ct1d1 dw11u~,· co"c' lui.-.ic fcmurr.s c411u110,1 w r>l<lnts <Utc,uion to ,ul<litio,wl
imroduclion explaining lhc b~ic <<lltgories of prop<~gmion co, cn_,-,l by dwpter
1 points of i111crcsr
princ iples and general techniques
of propaga, ion I ha, may be broadly ______
.. ..,_,.. ..,.... ---· ..
- ...
------·.
----·---
------
-··--·-
------·-
~

applied 10 the plant group covered

Gcnn<tl J.,rincipfn of ~~_:;:c_~~D~-·----
______ ..-:,:,:::-.. "'k -_:-. ··--·---
____ ..
~
-----··-·-
--- ----·--
:-:-.x.:...--:;=-=..-. ::;;,:.~~__-::.--.:
by lhc chaplcr. -·.....-···--- .... -
.__
--
·-- ---
___
::=::":=-=-:-::...
-·------ ·------- ~'.'Ii
:::c=== ,- ' - ,
ct1C:h tt"tl1uique e1s ii
==---===-- . .-:
::::::=--~.......--=·-=- .. ,i' .:,.,__, -------
_,

~~~=-=
Me1 hods in al1 or some of 1he
tlf>plies to I)falllS CO\'ffC<-f E':.:.~~~ ;!:£.. =-~~-:...~
°; . ~- :..-.:.:--t
·-·-·
==-~--;.-- -·----
- - =-=-=---;_·;
- . :-.:::.
..
:-=,·.::.,.-:-.::
_
following ca,cgories arc covered bv
,7
dt<tpte,· (fft• fXJJfoi,ied -+-i-~-.."'!:'=:!.
,., _ _
-.=-:..:.:...._
.. - ----
·\T
..A
-·-
._·---·--·· --------
-----·--
__ ·----- --
,...._
according to their relevance to the
plan1 group: sowing seeds, division.
rnking cuttings. layering, and graf1ing.
__ __
----------
=~-==..:
----~ ---
:-_ ___
____
.t::'~
___.:::;.'7....:::-
~~-=g:...
·:-.. .... ---
~~
I
..__

-----
-;;.-::.::-...::=. ___,.
;_

-·-
"":".r.t::-·..::.... :::.-:-:::.:::"'...
,.,_.. -··-·-·--
....,.
-·--·----
!!!
--·--·- :i:-----
--
-·---·-'"'-
--
_,_
___
__......... ___
-----------
-
_,

-·- .,._ -------··

------~
------
.____
._____
::::-:-_-::z.:-...--:.:-= -------
.:-.=::.:".-;;.":.:--.:=. ------··-
,.
-
--·-·-·· ...
·.-.=.:.=.·.;.::::..
..
.... __
------- ------ .. ·---------··
.,.
·~
-----·--
··------ ...,.. __,_. ,.._, -
··- ---· :::-:::.:='.":-.:=- ::;:::::'=:..~--=-= :.;-:..-..::::-."'""'l::...~.-

··----- ---- --------

Techniques particula,· 10 the plant ...................... .:~- _:';.";'~:.:.::- :.::-...-~-•.::..~ =-.:::::.:..:.=:
..... ==~-=---·-
_____ ,.,.._ =.=..::..:.::;.· ::::.=-.·::.-=:.
group also are described. Rrdu(rd color 1,uliccue:. - ------- -·- -__.,._·-___
,::..-~==- _
-·--
The relative mcrns of different 11ut1c1 fol to IJ4'" cliscardr.,I
-.-·-- ----------------
------- --· --
-.............
. J--
...........
-·-·
..........
- ~·-
--~-·-
techniques arc discussed. as well
as gathering and preparation of
wht11 prcr>aring cut1i11gs
··-----
--- ·- -·--··--
·------- ____.
-·-·-
------
__
J.::.-::;.:.
' - - ---~ 2::;:; ...7,:;.• .,
--------
-----·· =----
--------
----·-
________ ,.. ===--=-
----
-=----=-. - :,4:,.-.::.-:-.=
--"":'"'.:...."'":'.:=-
,.
propagation material, suitable .---------+--'--'="----'-"-- ---~~--===-"i·-::,_ .. --~
growing media, practicalities of the - ,__
lcchniquc. providing a favorable
__
,~.;.;.,::=.- .... _. ___ _
.,.-~---- :.-.~~--.:::.
01\'ISIO N
----·-
·----
-------- ----~--
-·-··
:.-:.-:-.:- 2--~;:::.-.;..
environment, factors that affecl the
success rate, and care of new plants ·--·---
. __---4-
..,____ ---·-
:::-...:.:.."':".;:=- -------
::::-'":'~.:::"'"..:"'
_________ _ ,,
-· --·- ------
--·--···
- ·-- - ~--
:::-.::.:.C"':"':- =;.-.:::=..-=----
:£:::' -~-=£.-=
_
up 10 the siage of planting ou1.
-· --------
---- _... _.......
--·---
......
=='=::...-:.::.:.
____ _____
_,._.,._, __
·::::--'::;..,;;.;_ ::-.:?:~::;":~
:-.:::=-:---==
..... __ =-.;.:.-
-::.=:·::..-_":..-::: ::.::;.::·-.-::n."",;.
'---
:::.-:::.::-=-...::- _
... bo.x Texr ,listu.sst·s

- -::.: =:.::.-.:. :::;.--:

---·-- ---------
-=·-~.:.-:- ------- -~=-- =-.
--··-·•'" -- ___
- =
______ ____ _..
~ .=.;:.":"'-=.:i="

=--~=-.:.:..-::: --·----
::.·.
teclmlqucs
:,::.!':':.:
,_
:\!.."".:.:;".;-"
::;:::.::::-.:=4-:.
., fxrchgrou,ul
OI'

·--·---
-=--==------=-·- of infdrnt<llion

--·-- .·-·,
--::--..::=:

-
-·--·-·- _ _00,..... ,-. .........
A1111ormio,1s liigliliglit r.:.":" par11c:ul<1r intt,·c:sr
------
----- . ...... <

... __
~

impot1mtt dewils
_
-·------ ··--·- ·-4 ....
_ _ _ ,, _ _ 4 ..

-- - .._____ _ ____ ... ___ -----

:-.::. i - ..-:::,_ s
-·---- __ ___ --~·"'·-
..:,;;,

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... :--..:. . .---::-::..-:.:::
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r .
,:::-::-.::=~ 2.·:,: ::·-::.~=-----+-- tf!/J· y-step St"(IIICll(C:S
· - - ..,. .• r-
- -- --·--·-- --·----·-J
b

1 commerci<1I
.Exmnples o.,
prac1iu cl<lrify mct110lls
- - - - - -
~:--=~=-· ?.-=':'..:!~
-------
:'r'-:..~"::.--:;- ~~-..
_.._____ ~~
-·----··-..

-------
~-=-~'?.-~
-----·
----··-···- ---·-··-- e.xpfc1it1liow W f.<Ur)' tm(
illus1r,11,d 1<d111iq11es
rhm bcnc'l1
,. gardc11er:,
-----·--
-----
- + --=~:-.:=-...:..-
_ ____
--·--- _
=-.::.::::.":,:
---..--- ,.._____ -- ~--- --·-----
~-:.:i:-..-.. :::::.-.:::.
..... _...... __ ..,._____ .... _ -- ------
--··--- . -.,:z.:;.::!.,_ ~

----- ....... __ --------·-

=?~::::~
:.:.::t:..-:.:.-:- :=-:;:::.;:.:. ::::. _ _.._
-·------ ----··----·- :!::.~::::.~;:_';;. :07.:~~-:"E~

Ti11tetl box i11<lica1es allen1<uive Plio1ograpl1ir. inSf'tS Marerilll is shown

to oue or more of steps in focus on <lcrails of b,cforc wul ,ifu:r
trdmiqm· ilfusrrnte<l tt1ch techuiqur 11'1'f'<1ration

6
 HO\.V TO USE Tl-11S BOOK

Ji11trd bo,drr in<licau-s An11<1Wtiom J11ghJ1,:Ju

FEATURES f<'otun_· ,;proul F1·t1f1H(" hi'tulmx j impmtmll drtml,
Most c hapters contain fea tures o n
popular and bornnica11y inleresting .. / C<rf>tion:,. <ic'!lt, ibc
plant groups. Th(·sc are palms
-. OR,A\1r'I u <,R'''"
(.; ..... ·- ~ \lfJJ by SU'f> fX<ICth•
and cycads, conifers. heaths and wlufl I<> do
heathers, roses. ferns, alpine plams,
water garde n plams, bromeliads,
---
=-= . ___- ..
. ~
-
1-:1 1 Al It, \ N I) Ill .\I Ill R,
ornamemal grasses, orchids, and
T
culina ry herbs.
Each feature focuses on modes ;:,·' '·'•
of propagaLion that are peculiar to
the featured p lants, describing the ir
c haratteristic ways of reproduction
a nd how 1hcse arc exploi1ecl in
~--
2-
.-·--~···
various techniques. The techniques
---___ ----
- - ·-·---
---· __---
- . ---- _
:--.:..-:..-:~ ::.r:.:::.-: :::::::::1:..
are fully illustrated with step-h y- ..-·--·- --- -----
---·-· ----·--·----·-·
-=--·-"-=- .. -·- ---
-·--·-·-----
s1ep pho1ographs and explanatory
-··--
----
---··-· -·-·
----
-:,:.__; .,!..,.
---
-----
-..::.:~~

----·-
_ -·---· --
=-.:..~:-= --
- -
anworks. The planLS' special needs ........ .
arc discussed, with tips on how to
-- .
---·
__ ... --·
--· ===-=· - --··
. __
- . . . ---·
=-~ ---------
-
·-··-·-·-
;:_-;:-:::;::_

achieve success. --·---· ------ ,

Further details or individual

plants are given in A-Z listings in
most features. Individual e ntries
for conifers and a lpine planLS,
A-Z lisling gives s1,ecific
delllils on propagating popul(l1·
or ilHcteSling pla111s in group
·-·- ..
---·--
------
J ------
::;.:.:-.::..~ -...
.,
____ _---- -----
.,__:::".;;:.-
_,,_
., -.-:..-:-..: ::=
·-··-- ·.z~--:.;:
.
-··- -
. ...;.::=.:-::
·- -' -· -~-
both large and varied groups, covertd by femurt
are included in 1he main A-Z
Comparati,·e il/us1rmio,1s show
or
dictionaries their chapters.
d1ffcrt·nu bc1ween ~oorl muJ hC1d
Tt·x1 describes in dcwil SJH"citd
trdmit1ur:, mid lips Owl
Cros"·M:-<tion
tu lWOI k:,. HJ u\f rtllf
pmpagation mo1rrlt1l ,,wtit ulwly ,d,u,· w ll1r gump of ltoh' ,~·dmiq1u·s
plmu-. rn,·erc:-,1 in .~,1d1Jcmurr 1<1kc cf/at

A-Z <ntrirs on )pccific gcnc,·e1 in Clwns ,,r wblrs iri somf dwpu·,·s
Vegetablr clu1pte1· al1,lwl,tt1< al orcltr "f botoniwl ,1mmuH i~r imJH>rlcl,u dr1<,ils ,uch A-Z DlCTlO NARlES
l1as index of nmnes; tommon mrn1rs of ,lie m; wluu wul ''°"'
w :,."w \t't'tl:. ,>, Practical c hapters each include a
cormtto11 ,uonrs gc,ws arc gi\.e11 w,1erc rdcwm1 wl1ich rootstock w use
plan1-br-plnn1 dktion;.1ry arr;lngcd
;,lphabctic:,lly by botanical name,

A-Z r v, GI r.uu r~ _..........···..- ~;-- Runnmg hrml gi,·c, c111it k

1i:f1'h :,U 1• fO 1•11r, IC\
and <lescnbmg a range of genera
in 1hc p lam group. These include
-·-
--__ -_.-
.. __
______
,uu ...... ,.. ..

-- --·
.. ,,
_..,_
___ genera th.tt arc conmlonly g rown in
'=" -- ---- --- .._ Pl1m,)g1<1pl1i< clcwil various clima1cs, a rc propagmed in
-
--- ,..:.--__-~
---·-:.:."':'".:.-
____ . I - ...__

-- c:.=::.;-=:
=- ·--- -- -
-

-
show) pJwu (\'l>irnf
off('(llwal ,l:(flll"
unusual ways, o r need special care.

~
.
1==~~-· ..:: -- . --·... S11m111<11) of pos,ibk
Entries ~ll'C of varying lengths
for d ifferent genera. ;1ecording 10
--
·- •'
111rtl1<><k wuh iin1111g~
1hc numhcr and complcxi1y of wa)'s
---
---
- ·-
- ·f mad rn,i11r:" ,mi11g,
in which each b propag;ucd . ,\t the
--
---
cl- .
wp of each e ntry, possihlc methods,
-·--- ..........,.
- ... ...,_ .., '"
when 1hcy may be undertaken, and
·-
-- C'asiness ratings arc summarized fo r
easy refere nce. \•Vithin each e ntr)',
guidance is given o n the merits o f
each method covered 10 e nable I he
!, •
.- .
t . ,.
... .
r.:: ·
!
....
:-Jt.'• .
,,..
' -

,-.. . _,._.
' - ..__. .
i: .. , :; .._
. ·c·
reader to choo!>e 1he most suitable.
\ Vhe rc needed. individual species .
~ ' · .. ..., '"'
- , "' :;,. .. ( ....... ,
:::- ..:
( hybrids, or cultivars arc discussed.
Special met hods nm covered in

- - --- 1he chapter's basic techniques ;trc

Grou1>c111tirs in r,illy ex plained and illustrated in
\tgrwbft" cJwpur (O\'fr : 2. • ....:.. .., ...... ' .--· relevant entries. Cross~rcfcrc nccs are
.. . -.- -·
(

all populor vcgcic,bln .L.

,. .,.,.,.. ..., , .._,
- -·-
' given 10 basic 1cchniqucs or similar

-·:.. - --·---· - -·...

'
btlonging h> cad1 ghW.\ -
genera. Each spread also lists niany

hurmlucrion gh•fs
.
J;.:..·-:-_ -
Ill
- -- • · -- - :i,.,c:,:,;"~"
..........
'.

- -.·
. addi1io 11.tl genera, with concise
details o n how they arc increased.
genrral i,ifornurrion
ancl f>OSsibre mrrh0<Js
of inC'n-<~S<' . . . _=_:. _,.-+"'"'~~-~,: -
illustrnrcs ud111i,1uts
t,. ;~ . .:~.;, ,_..-,· ~"-:,-~.-:,---··_-__,.
~,,d1 gc-uus, cross•,rfrn.·nud to rlu_· n·lrwmr
Li:.tiug giu•,, m1ti'!lf ,ln<1ih
011 l'ro1,.,goti11g otlit·r gt>nt,·Cf
rckwmr lo indh-iduol IH1sk tah111cfUt' mid including ,,~·<i<1I lips
grnus OI spf<in.~ 0 11 the. _t.-;fnui. o, !.f)ait:,. w1tl1i11 ir

7
 NTRODUCTION
An understanding of the ways in which plants grow and reproduce, and
of the relevance and application of practical techniques, will allow the
gardener to propagate plants with ease and confidence
he art of propagation is as old as civilization:
T from the beginning, farmers and gardeners
have observed, learned, and adapted from nature
to perfect ways of increasing plants in cultivation.
The parallels between plant reproduction in the
wild and long-established 1nethods of propagation
are here described, as well as the advances made
\Vith the help of 1nodern technology that may
innuence the way we garden in the future.
The practice of propagation is ahvays
easier if based on a thorough understanding of
how plants function. The 1nechanisn1s of both
sexual reproduction (from seeds) and asexual
or vegetative reproduction (such as layering) are
explained and illustrated in detail to sho\v ho,v
the techniques of propagation are applied, in what
,.,,ays they improve on natural 1nethods, and ,vhy
they are successful.
The practicalities of propagation are also
dealt with: suitable tools for the various tasks are
illustrated, together with the range of contai ners
that are used in propagation. The importance of
the growing 1nediu1n is recognized, with a survey
of the types of ingredients, soil 1nixes, and other
media that may be used, and their relative merits.
Advice is also given on ho,v to 111ake suitable
soil mixes at home.
REGAL FERN
The magnificent royal fem, Osmunda regalis, may
be ,·aisedfrom spol'es or propagated vegetmively.
Spores must be sown c111icllly becc,use they become
nonviable cif1er three days. Mature 11lan1s fonn
dumps that may be divided.
Climate has a great influence on propagation,
how it is done, what plants may be increased, and
the likelihood of success. For instance, in colder
climates, much propagation is carried out under
cover, perhaps ,vith artificial heat, ,.,,hereas in
warm or tropical regions, plants are easily raised
in the open garden. The main types of climates
and the consequent differences in propagation
are su1n1narized, ,vith a full-color 111ap.
Success in propagation usually depends
on providing a supportive environ111ent for the
plant 111aterial and, later, for the new plants.
Their special needs - and ,vays of supplying them,
whether in the ho111e, the open garden, or in a
greenhouse - are discussed and amply illustrated.
Finally, problems that are
likely to affect plants at
this stage are listed,
together with ways
to combat then1.
A NNUAL Sl!EDPOO
Lil:c atr a11111wls,
Lovc-in·a-misr
(Nigella damasccna)
is raised from seeds.
TJ1csc arc co,uained in auracrive,
ir,jlmed seed capsules. \Vhen tire
seeds l'ipcn, each capsule splits
open u, scauer tl1e seeds at rJ1e
foot of the 11lm11.
9
INTRODUCTION
LEARNING FROM N ATU RE
lants have evolved a fascinating array is that the plant embryos are able 10
P of reproductive strategies in order
10 survive and increase and to coloni.ze
lie dormant in hostile conditions, such
as drought or winter, delaying the next
new ground. They have adapted to a
wide range of adverse habitats, such as
deserts (see below), high altitudes where
winds damage foliage and discourage
pollinating insects, and even wa1er, where
problems are completely different.
Since the dawn of civilization, the
farmer and gardener have used their
observations of plant reproduction in
the wild 10 develop propagation methods
in cultivation. All plant reproduction is
b)• seeds (sexual reproduction) or by
vegetative (asexual) 1ne1hods.
R EPRODUCTION FROM SEEDS
Sexual reproduction remains 1he most
important method of increase for many
plants (see pp.16-21 ). Genetic material
from a male and female parent of one
species (preferably on d ifferent plants)
unites in the seed or spore. The seed
embryo forms a new plant that often
looks the same as the parents but has
a different genetic makeup to either.
This capacity for evolution enables
plants 10 adapt over a period of time to
environmental changes or to colon ize
areas originally hostile to the species.
Another advantage of producing seeds
SAFETY IN NUMBERS Echium wildpretii
colo11i ies rhe sro11y, dry hills of tl,c Ca11aiy
lsla11ds by produci11g huge qua11fifics of seeds .
... DESERT DENIZEN \Nelwitsehia ,nimbilis
survives in rhe lu1rsl1 deserts of soutliwestern
Africa by collccri11g dew 011 its two leaves. The
leaves lll't 6J1 (2m) or more and chcmnd dew
into the ground above the plant$ huge taproot.
Eacl, pla111 is either male or female so ca11 011ly
repro,lucr if a pla11t of the oppo,ite sex is 11,arby.
10
stage of reproduction until favorable
conditions occur.
Sexual reproduction can gi,•e rise to
botanical subspecies or varieties, whose
characteristics deviate to some degree
from the paren1 species. This is most
marked in 1nountainous areas where
so,ne plants become isolated on a valley
noor or alpine peak from the more
widespread species. The potential for
variation is 1nore dramatic where plants
are isolated by water, creating colonies
on separate islands. Geographical
isolation can also rcsuh in ende,nism: a
species limited to one locali1y (see right).
In con trast, where two species from
the same genus grow in the same area,
they may cross-breed to produce natural ENDEM IC PLANT
hybrids. Arbuws x an,lraclinoides grows flu~clcscn rose (Adcnium o hcsum .)Ul>S1'-
wild in Greece and is a hybrid of two !>0<:01ranurn) isfowul only on the smnll islantl
species, Arbutus andrachne and A. unedo. of Socmrn. off tlic um thra,r Af,iam co<1sr. Thr
ln the wild, plants disperse hundreds isk Jws been rsofoted from lht~ nmrmcnt for 1.6
or even ntillions of seeds in order that a miflio11 )'f(ffS and has O\lff 250 emkmi< <ipccies.
rew seedlings might survive LO maturity.
In cultivation, a high yield of good- adaptabilit)' for specific conditions,
quality seedlings may be obtained more and resistance to pests and diseases.
quickly by providing 1he1n with as ideal However, seedlings may not be as
an environment as possible (see The suited to local conditions in the wild, or
Propagation Environment, pp.38-45). as garden-worthy in cultivation , as the
Humankind has also benefited from parents. This risk can be reduced by the
the genetic diversity of seeds, selecting gardener, to some extent, by using seeds
forms that may have died out in the wild from known sources, where good-quali ty
and developing from the1n plants with parents arc selected and grown away
im,nense value in cultivation (see The from possible pollen contam ination from
Evolution of Bread Wheat, facing page). inferior plants. So1ne seeds have a deep-
Seeds offer the potential to introduce an seated or complex dormancy (see p.19).
exci ting range of plants wi th new forms as in Davidia i11volucrata, where seeds do
of fiower and leaf, hardiness, habit , not always germinate in any quantity in
-. .,.

one season or may take several )'Cars
to reproduce. Other spec ies ma)' fai l t0
produce seeds at all or yield seeds wi th
low viabilit)', such as Acer griseum.
VEGETATIVE REPRODUCTION
Nature has overcome the lim itations of
seeds b)' adopting asexual reproduction
also, p rod ucing offspring (clones) that
are genetically identical to the parent.
Plants have man)' ways or increasing
vegetative!)' fro1n modified roots or
stems. The simplest is by form ing a
mass, o r crown, or shoots and buds,
each capable of being a separate p lan t.
Some plants can regenerate shoots
or roots from g rowth tissue to produce
new plants (run ners or la)'crs) . O thers
form specialized organs, including s tem
tubers (pota toes), corms (crocuses) and
pseudobulbs (Cy111bidiu111 orchids), that
store food (see pp.25-7). This enables a
plant 10 s urvive unfavorable co nditions
and save e nergy for reproduction when
favorable conditions occur.
Vegetative reproduction allows some
plants to colonize an a rea more rapidly
than by seeds, as 311)' gardener who
has encoun te red quack, o r witch , grass
(Agropyron repe11 s) knows. lL is also
useful to plants at the fringes of their
natural habitat, where nowering and seed
production are difficult. Blackberries
(Rubus Jruticosus) rare!)' nower in
dappled woodland, but they spread
rapid ly b)' tip la)'ering (see p.24).
Gardeners have adapted natural
vegetative, or clonal , reproduction to
obtain p lants that are always "true" to
the parent (see pp.22-27). Methods such
as division of herbaceous plants arc even
more re liable than seeds. Artificia l ways
of increase, such as b)' cuttings or air
la)'ering, have also been developed b)'
explo iting plants' regenerative abilities.
Clonal p ropagation carries dangers,
however. Geneticall)' identical p lants
carr)' the sa,ne s usceptibi lit)' to disease.
The large UK popu lation of English elms
NATURAL GRAFT
In the wild, grafts can occur betwet:n woody
pla111s of relarecl, 1liin-barliecl species if 1licy
grow in close proximity. Tlw, branches m1 one
plcmt. nwy grow toge1l1e1; os on this Parrotia.
Grafting has been copied in cultiwHion CIS a
w<1y of propag<Hion, cdrhough it occu,-s in ncuure
accidentally, not cis a 1111c mode of reproduC(io11.
LEARN ING FROM NATURE
1'
... •
~- FROM TflE \VILD
TO TII E GAROl:N
~> '"-t
•.
·"'·
Specks ca11 be inarllsed
selectively in cuhiwuiou
. • rn produce plmus that
-, bc,,r li11le rcscmbl,111ce
~ • lo wild species. Mcmtow
4
rnfips, such as Tulipa
australis (sec for lert),
'' have been l1y brirliz.cd
• ' over many yeal'S ro
#, produce 1hous1111ds of
showy. fargt'~bloomed
, ..
- '\ ,'
\ 'II,
.
•. cuhivnrs, sud1 as Tulipa
' .... .
• '' 'Es1<1/<1 Rijnvdcl' (left).
(Ulmus procera) was destroyed in the The p lant famil)' can be a useful guide:
l960-70s by Dutch elm disease. The plants in the same famil)' often reproduce
trees usually reproduce by root suckers sim ilar!)'- For example, most p lants in
so were represented by just a few the Gesneriaceae, such as African violets
genetically different clones. lf the elms (Saintpaulia), Col1111111ea, Ramonda, and
had increased b)' seeds, they may have Streptocarpus rcadil)' regenerate from
varied enough genetically for resistant leaf tissue. The Menthaceae, including
trees 10 have occurred. coleus (Solenostemon) , sage (Salvia),
Lamium, and rosemary, root casil)' from
LEARNING FROM NATURE s tem cuttings - in the wild, stems close
Most plants have the capacit)' to increase to moist soil produ ce roots .
sexuall)' and asexua ll)', which avoids Another factor is the plants natural
disaste rs similar to that s u ffered b)' the li111it or distribution; often reproductive
English elm . This benefilS gardeners, who ability declines outside this area (see
can choose a propagation method LO su it pp.36-7). This ma)' be countered b)'
their needs and the capacit)' or each plant providing controlled conditions (see The
to reproduce in the local conditions. Propagation Environment, pp.38-45).
THE EVOLUTION OF BREAD WHEAT
The lurning poim for agriculture in 1he O ld The wild grasses, including emmer. had
World probably came in the Middle East in long. thin stalks which snapped easily and
8.000 BC. A wild goat grass crossed with ears which broke up into grains auached to
wild w heal (Triricmn monococcmn) to form husks and were carried o n the wind. This
a rare, fertile hybrid with a larger ear. The helped namral distribution of seeds. but
hybrid, called emmcr (Tri1icnm dicoccw11), made harvesting difficuh.
was cultivated by the: ancient Greeks and Bread wheat had shorter, sturdier stalks
Romans because of its increased yields. Jn and ears that did not disintegrate. The ears
a second genetic accident, cmmcr crossed must be broken by thrashing, and 1he husks
with another goat grass: the new fertile removed as chaff while the plump grains fall
hybrid, wi1 h larger ears, was bread wheat. to the ground. Therefore bread whea1 needs
For two conscqucm hybrids 10 be fertile is help for its distribution and man and plant
an amazing coincidence. ha\le come toge1her for mutual benefit.
\V tLD
EMMER SPELT \\'HEAT
---~
t,._,
~~-~~ ,, \..
~~
FROM G RASS TO WHEAT '
~Vild grasses such as einliom and
emmer were hwd to lwrve.st. A
cultivated emmer from cmcicnr
Greece and Rome crossed with
wild goa1 grass produced spelt,
wi1h bigger grains. s,,.,11 is a
parent of modern wl1eat, wl1ich
\VILO is easier to han1est because of BREAD
EINKORN its sl1on stalks and up,ight ears. W HEAT
11
INTRODUCTION

PROPAGATION IN THE PAST

T he cultivation and propagation of
p lanlS began when human tribes
abandoned their nomadic, hunter-
gatherer way of life to live in settled
communities. This change occurred
just afte r the last ice age and marked
the beginning of modern civilization. It
is often referred 10 as the "agricultural
revolution " but appears to have been
main I)' the result of a retnarkable genetic
accident that led to the developme nt of
bread wheat (see p.11 ). This biological
miracle Look place in about 8.000 Be. in
the Middle East and was the trigger for
the adven t of farming.
Ancient civilizations throughout the
world grew a wide range of food crops,
including grains, from seeds, after n oting
how plants naturally dispersed seeds
that later produced seedlings. In ancien t
G reek and Roman times, writers such as
the poet Virgil recorded curren t methods
of propagation in som e detail. O lives,
date palms, and C)'presses were grown
from seeds, as wel l as other food plants
su ch as cabbages, tiirnips, lettuces, and
h erbs. To speed up germ ination, the
Greeks soaked seeds in milk or honey.
Seeds were a lso protected with thin
sheets o f mica or a form of bell g lass.
O RIGINS OF VEGETATIVE PROPAGATION
Propagation from c uttings began when
rooted shoolS or suckers were detac hed
and replanted. This led to propagation
from unrooted cuttings. Romans dipped
the bases of cuuings in ox manure
to s timula te rooting. In the Midd le
East, settlers discovered how
to propagate s uperior forms
of grapes, o lives, and figs
to preserve their d esirable
characteristics by thrusting
woody stems into the soil.
8)' 2,000 BC, g rafting was
fairly common in G reece,
the Middle East, Eg)'Pt, and
Ch ina. The ea rliest form
of grafting was probably
approach grafting, because
it has a high success rate. The
bran ch of one tree, while sti ll
a ttached to the parent tree,
was securely attached to the
branch of anothe r tree after the
bark of each branch had been
wounded. This mimics natural
grafting (see p. 11) and illustrates how
close!)' people were observing na ture.
Grafting was used to propagate plan ts
that were difficult to root from cuttings
and to en courage early fruiting.
The Romans were among the first to
practise detached scion-grafting (see also
p.2i), where a piece of the chosen plant
is removed and inserted into a cut in
a rootstock , selected to provide vigor
for the grafted plant. They used a variety
of methods and ma)' have even grafted
a single rootStock ,vith a number of
different fruit culti vars, s uch as a pples,
to produce what is now known as a
multiple tree (see p.57). The Romans
and ancient C hinese a lso employed the
technique of budding (see p.27).
Oth er natural vegetative re production
m ethods were exploited by propagating
A ARON'S RO O
13,blical rcfrrcnccs to
JJropc,gating plants, such
as Aaron S rod. «bow id.
Moses pierced stcivcs from
,he 12 leaders of 1he
lsroefitcs in rhe tabernacle:
"a11d behold. tl,e ,o<I of
Ac,ron ... was budded.
and brought fo nh buds.
and bloomed blossoms
and yielded cdmonds"
(Numbers 17: 8). and so
Aaron was chosen. Thb
is probablv one of tllt'
earliest recorded examplt•s
of,, Jwulwood tuulng.
fro,n food -storage organs such as bulbs,
tubers, and rhizo,nes (see pp.25-27).
Plants inc reased in this wa)' included
o nion and garlic (Med iterranean), sugar
can e ( tropical Africa), banana (India and
Indo nes ia). potato and pineapple (South
America). and bamboo (Asia) .
Simple layering was adapted from
natural la)'ering of wild pla nts (see p.24).
Records show that the Romans were
layering grapes in the 1st centur)' BC. Air
layering (see p.25) probably began to be
u sed 4,000 )'Cars ago in China; it is often
s till referred to as Ch inese la)'ering.
Toward the dawn of the first centU I")'
AO, plant propagation practices were
already wel l-establis hed. Throughout
the cen turies tha t followed, these earl)'
propagation techn iques were conti nuall)'
developed and improved.
\

A NCIENT fGl'PTlAN FAR~IING

This wall painting of Semed1em and
l1is wife in the Valley of 11,c Nobles,
Thebes, shows duu sowing grain see<L'i
in drills was 11racticed in cmcienr
Egypt. The mixed orchard of palms
and olive trees (below) wcis probably
grown from seeds 01 cuttings.

12
 PROPAGATION IN THE PA ST

THE POWER OF MANURE

Providi ng bouom heat for propagation is four times during this period 10 ensure
easy today with the aid o[ electricity, but even heating. lt was 1hen placed in the pit.
solid-fueled boilers and hot-water pipes firmed, and watered . The frame was placed
were cumbersome and expensive in earlier on top and soil added to a depth of Sin
times. One way or giving plants bouom (20cm}, to spread the heat. Pots and trays
heat, for propaga1ion and forcing early of cuuings or seeds were placed on the soil.
crops, was the "ho, bed;· which came Hot beds are becoming popular again
to prominence in the Victorian era. This as gardeners realize lhc value of heat from
ingenious but simple system relied on heat decomposition. For anyone with access to
generated by microbial action on a mixture manure, and 1he space for a large pit, they
• - , t
A',Jt1
~
of equal parts rrcsh manure are practical, organic, and
·,-; f . and deciduous leaves. cheap (sec />.4 J). A hot bed
f ;. The hot bed co11sistcd made in spring releases
i .• - .~
1i ,i .i o[ a glazed frame placed
' , /ti heat for up to eight weeks.
in a pit , approximately 3[t
~ _.
I -~
Manure wilh high straw
i1---l
11 · -~
•
~ ..
,-t•
~
i .
11 "
(90cm) deep and !Sin
(45cm) longer and wider
1han 1he dimensions of
contem releases less heat,
but over a longer period.

1he frame, filled witl1 tl>e H OT HEO

manure mix. To activale Victorians gar<leuas often
the manure before filling used hot bccls lilie l11is
the pit, the manure and restori:d one in Cornwall,
CfllNESE CMRYSANTHEM UM leaves were thoroughly Engl<md,for propagation
rl1£· ,mcit·n1 Chinese were cxpl'rt gc,rdniers, mixed, moistened. and left and for raising tender
portinilarly in the on of hyl>ricliz.euion. Hybt·ids for about 1wo weeks. The vegetables or f ruits (here
oftrccrsured pfruus such ,~s rhc du:.rsm1d1em11m pile was turned three or pineapples) in wimer.
were c,eattdfor tlu: ddiglit of EmJJerors.

V ICTORIAN INFLUENCES cold frames and ho t beds ( see ,ibove) to seed inside the cut stein before inserting
An explosion of plant-hunting took con trol te mperature and h umidity. Cold the cuuing in soil mix. As the wheat seed
place in the western world in the 18th frames, sited to capture as m uch warmth absorbed water and began to germi nate,
and 19th centuries. A wealth of new as possible from the sun, especially in it released growth-promoting substances.
and exciting plants were discovered winte r, were used for seeds, roo t c uttings, These helped the cutting root more
and traded between Europe and Japan , and easy stem cuuings. easi ly and with more vigor. The practice
China , the East Indies, Australasia, Bell jars were used in great numbe rs. became obsolete after 1940, following
Africa, North America, Mexico , and The bell-shaped glass jars, about l 8in the introduction o f synthetic rooting
South America. New introductio ns (4Sc,n) tall , were placed over c uttings hormo nes, or auxins (see p.30).
arrived as seeds, bulbs, or even plan ts. in prepared soil or in pots. Although Gardeners also understood the need
Enthusiasm for these new plants and d iITicult 10 control precisely, it was for seed treatmen ts such as scarificati on;
the desire to grow and p ropagate them , possible to maintain high humidity inside in the days of fob watches, pea seeds
coupled with the financial wealth o f the the bell jars. Warm th was provided by were carried in the vest pocket so they
plant collectors, was the inspiration for sola r radiation . Bell jars were effective became scratched by the watch .
the golden age of the greenhouse (see for raising small quantities o f plants
right). Victorians were very inventive in fro,n seed s, stem o r root cuu ings, and G LORIOUS G REENIIOUSES
both the construction and desig n. Their even grafted plants. Today, bell jars have \Vith d11' adwnt of lhe he{,tcd gn·e11housc in
methods of con trolling temperature largely been replaced by more versatile l8th·<f11tu 1y Eumpc, tcmpe,mure, light. w ul
and levels o f ligh t and humidity in the cloches (see p.39). · ~ humic/iry couJcl bt· contmll,•tl. This
growing e nvironment of the glasshouse Toward the end of the 19th e.x1,,11clecl 1lw rcmge of JJl11111s that
we re impressively complex. centu ry, gardeners split the coul,1 be propag111ecl. CIS i11 this
The greenhouse e nabled the c reative base of a cuuing and t1011ict,l xrcenlwuse,
use o f pro pagation methods and the placed a wheat c. 1870.
refinement o f techniques. The role of
"propagator" became importam for any
garden of note. Initial ly, trial and error
m ust have been used when attempting
to increase stocks of each unfamiliar
plant. Pro pagato rs we re proud of their
new knowledge and often guard ed it
jealously to secure their reputatio ns
and future e1nployment. Th is may be
the origin of the mystique wh ich often
surround s plant propagation even today.
The pro pagation equipment that
was available to Victorian gardeners
was fairly primitive compared to modern
advances, yet their ideas still form the
basis o f what is done today. They used

13
INTRODUCTION
MODERN PROPAGATION
ince the 1950s, modern technology
S and an increase in the exchange or
information a,nong proressionals has led
Lo the development or new propagation
techniques ror the first time in centuries.
These new methods, together with
modern equipment, make propagation
much easier toda)'· Continuing research
regularly opens up more possibilities in
propagation; these are first tested by
professionals and, ir they prove worth-
while, eventually benefit the gardener.
MIST PROPAGATION
The intermittent mist propagation
S)'Stem (see below) was designed in
the 1950s ror rooting stem cuuings,
particularly of softwood and semi-ripe
material. The un it provides bouom
heat to st imulate rooting and constant,
regulated humidity 10 keep the cuttings
moist and cool. This advance allowed
up to six batches of cuttings LO be taken
per bench per year, and many plants
that had previously been grafted cou ld
be rooted , at a fraction or the cost.
Toda)', instead or a soil thermostat,
digital sensors spaced evenly through
the bed and linked to a central system
are often used. Mist is provided when
the 1nis1-control sensor placed at the
level or the cuttings indicates a fall in
the moisture-film level on the cuttings.
M 1Si PROPAGATION
UNIT
This ,t,ennosuuically
contmlled unit is self
c,mtlli11td and cmi be
covered wut insulmetl Elrc1rir
m the bt1sc and sides. sockc1
It suppJies houom
hem through m,
clcct1·icnlly heated bed
of sand or soil mix.
Bursts offine wmc,·
drol'lcls nuiinwin <1
COIISUWI film of wmer
Sand is
10 prevcm rhc cuttings
wt,nnc,J
from dryi11g <mt. by «•bits - ,'cf
Soil·wam1it1g cable wcirms - -ff,
Sllnd f>t',l, providirig bouom
liellt to cncournge 1-001h1g
0
Soil llu:nnO$tat tegul(,tcs _ _
temperature of smul bccl o,· o ·=
soil mix d1rougJ1 soil sen.so,
14
Mist propagalion is widely used in
commercial propagation and is useful
for gardeners. 1r )'OU cannot afford a
ded icated unit (see p.44), create )'Our
own version with soil-warming cables
and a misting system in a closed case.
P LASTIC FILM
Another development of the 1950s was
plastic fihn. Cuttings are provided with
bottom heat and the plastic film (a sheet
of clear plastic) is draped over them in
order Lo create a sealed environment,
which maintains high humidit)' around
the tops of the cuttings. This S)'Ste,n is
easi ly adopted b)' gardeners, although
rotting can be a problem in cool
temperatu res. Plastic fihn can also be
used with cold frames to warm soil
berore cuuings or seeds are inserted and
then to cover new plants in the frame.
FOG PROPAGATION
The main develop1nen1 in the 1nid-1980s
was fog propagation , wh ich provides a
much smal ler water droplet than mist
propagati on, so that the air remains
moist for a much longer period. It also
avoids wetting the foliage, as in mist
propagation, so is ideal for cuuings or
seedl ings that are prone to rot. In recent
years, fog systems have been si mplified
and made more reliable (see p.44).
Solt'noid v,1fvr comtuls
11.,==~ rn- -SCIISdl l() misting l1rnd
Misting ,acctcl ~111'll)'!>
fine mist O\'ft pfwus
M1sr control scmsor
Idr1au f<,11 m J111midi1y
___ _, ,r---
. ..:
. .- .
. . . .. t.-·
.. . growing pieces or plant tissue in vitro
0
PREGERMINATED SEEDS
Pregcm,inmcd seeds (here of alfnlfa, a au tic
fodder crop) can /Jc kept moist n11cl supplied with
nutricms by eml>e,lding 1hem i11 beads of gel. The
tiny seedlings grow unchccJu:d before sowing.
SEED TREATMENTS
Seed priming exploits the natural abi lit)'
or some seeds 10 halt development ir soil
conditions are unfavorable. It improves
speed and uniformit)' of gennination.
Seeds are started into pregermination
,vith a con trolled amount of water and
then redried just before the radicle
(embr)'onic root) emerges. Tim ing of the
treatment is critical. True germination
docs not occur until the seeds are sown.
In co,nmerce, seeds are germinated,
or chined, until the radicle emerges,
then packed, sometimes in gel (see
above), and sent out ror i1nmedia1e
sowing. Gardeners can also chit seeds;
ii is ver)' userul ror hard-coated seeds ,
Sro11 especially of vegetables (sec p.282).
vah·c
Pelleted seeds are coated with an
inert material , such as a polyn1er, that
splits or softens on contact with water.
The coating ma)' contain fungicides,
nuLricnlS, and a nuorescent dye. The
pellet makes sowing easier, particularly
Sw,ul with small seeds, thus reducing losses.
,..._ _ 1,ipc
M ICROPROPAGATION
This technique, developed in the 1960s,
·- is used 10 propagate huge numbers of
plants from a small amoun t of material.
lL enables plants that are dirficult 10
.. propagate by traditional means, new
cultivars, and virus-free stocks of crop
plants such as raspberries, 10 be made
available to gardeners. To conserve
plan lS in the wild, old and rare plants
0 can be increased fro,n existing stocks.
Micropropaga1ion usually involves
(in glass) in sterile laboratory conditions
(see top of facing page). This is possible
because of the abilit)' of most plants to
regenerate from a single cell. Tissue
from the shoot tip (meristem) is most
orten used, but root tips, calluses (which
form on wounds), anthers, nower buds,
leaves, seeds, or fruits may also provide
su itable tissue. Temperature and levels

MICROPROPAGAT!NG FROM PLA NT CELLS
C ULTURED PLANT TISSUE />/mu
cell, (lu·...- l!f tobacco) ,rrr grow11
on a 111w it·nt gel until the cell nwss
puxlucrs embt)'" pltmts.
OTHER FORMS OF M!CROPROPAGATION
The slerile co11tlirio11s of
micropmpagatio11 am be
used to gC1i11 better yidtls
and presenre disec,se.Jre:e
stocks by adapri11g mer hods
alrtculy used to i11crease
pfallls. Plcmtle1s ,u-e grown
from ri11y leaf c1111i11gs:
microwbcl's «m be easily
transported; orcl1id seeds
have a mucl1 improved
survival ra,e if protecled
from airborne bticwria. 1\l' RICAN VIOLET LE,\F CU-IT ING
of light, nutrien ts, and hormones are
regulated in specially adapted g rowing
rooms. The resuhing plants are g rown
on in green house conditio ns. Viruses
and systemic disease rarely penetrate
growing lips, so micropropagaied plants
arc normall y disease-free and may be
safely introduced 10 other coun tries.
There are some disadvan tages lo
micropropagation: it is cosily; bacteria
and viruses may 1101 always be to tally
eradicated; plants may show genetic
mutations; and plants may fail to adapt
well to a normal growing environment.
T HE FUTURE OF PROPAGATION
New scien tific discoveries cominue 10
affec1 plant propagation. T he benefl ts
of 1hese techniques are not alwa)'s yet
available 10 gardeners but may be in
1he future. Recen t innovmions include
genetic engineering - a controversial
area - artificial seeds, and micrografti ng.
In gene!ic engineering, foreign genes
with known, desirable characteristics are
transferred into another plant cell (sec
rig/11). I! is possible to introduce a gene
that is totally un related to the recipient
plant - unlike natural hybridizing and
traditional selective breeding, both of
which also result in offspring that are
geneticall)' different 10 the parent plants.
-
Cu rnNG UP CULTURED TISSUE ROOTING PI.ANTLETS Hor111011es
The mcbS of pl<mr lissue is cut inw in tl1e 111111·ic111 gel tncourC1gt the
pkccs, l'ach with one eu1IH)'O, then ,,lmufcts (here swutews) la l'rotluce
1rtmsferred too rooting n1tdiwn. roots llnd slioois lilte seeclli11g.),
POTATO M ICROTUOERS
T he technolog)', involving 1nolecular
biology, is very complex and not without
problems. An average plant has 20 ,000
different genes, of which there may be
five million copies in a single cell, so
determining which gene is responsible
for which characteristic can be difficult.
T he minute scale of the gene transfer
operation demands s pecial techniques.
T he finished cel l is micropro pagated to
produce a stock plant for propagation.
Geneti c engineering has immense
potentia l 10 enhance the usefulness of
existing plants and to create new ones.
Current work is aimed at improv ing
resistance of crops to disease, cold, and
pests. Successes include potatoes 1ha1
do 1101 suffer cold damage and canola
that yields more oil. There are concerns,
however, about the consequences of
introducing plants 1ha1 could never
occur in nature into the environm en t.
Natural!)' fertilized seeds contain
genes from 1wo parents; no 1wo seeds
are identical. lt is now possible 10 create
artificial seeds (somatic embryos) from
vegetative tissue. This involves isolating
embr)'OS - grown in so lution fro1n single
cel ls - and giving them a S)'n1he1ic
coati ng. Vasi numbers of gene1icall)'
un iform "seeds" can be produced, which
give rise to genetica lly identical plants.
MODERN PROPAGAT ION
Y OUNG PLANTS Pla11tlcts (liere
md1ids) arc grown 011 in se<1kcl,
sterile fl<tsl:s until they cffe large
c11ougJ1u, trnnsplwu 11110 pots.
ORCH ID SEEDLINGS
ln 1nicrograf1ing, minute pieces of plant
tissue arc used to produce disease- and
virus-free plants, especially fru it trees.
First , seedl ing roo1s1ocks are raised in
sterile condi tions. \l\lhen a seedling
reaches the first true leaf siage, ii is
micrografted with the tiny, virus-free tip
(meris1e111 ) of the desired plant. Af1 er
about six 1non1hs, micrografts are read)'
for norma l planting. Virus-free, micro-
propagated (clonal) rootsiocks ma)' also
be used 10 avoid the variabil ity that can
occur with seedl ing rootstocks.
G ENETIC ENGINEERING
Plant cells (here of robacco) arc c/1c111ically
U'catecl w remove their wugl, outer cell walls.
Genes fmm mlier plant cells arc then introduced
into du.• cells, and 1hr ower w<dls are regrown.
15
INTRODUCTION
SEXUAL INCREASE OF PLANTS
he seed is the basic biological unit
T for the reproduction or conifors
(gymnospenns) and flowering plants
(angiosperms). Each seed combines
1nale and fomale genes in a plant
embryo and gives rise to offspring
tha t varies genetical ly rrom the
parent plants. By this means, a
species can preserve and perpetuate
its identi ty yet constantly exchange
genetic material within the species
so that it can evolve and so adapt to
changes in the environment.
Seeds also enable a plant to colonize
a large area and can lie donnant until
condi tions are favorable, which greatly
increases their chances or survival.
Understanding how seeds are formed
and dispersed and how they germinate
is essential to successful propagation.
T HE STRUCTURE OF THE FLOWER
In angiosperms, the process or seed
production begins with the flower:
a structure that con tains either male
or female sex organs or both . Most
flowers are cotnposed or inner petals
and outer sepals, collectively called
tepals or perianth segments; they ma}'
show great diversity in shape and color.
The Talipot palm (Corypha
umbraculifera) produces a massive
cluster or thousands of flowers
(inflorescence) at the apex or the palm.
The plant is 1nonocarpic: aher flowering
once, the palm dies. In con trast, the
largest single flower in the world is
produced by Rafflesia, a tropical parasite
that has no leaves and blooms directly
from the roots or the host plant. These
flowers can measure 32in (80cm) across.
Between these extremes are the flowers
or more familiar garden plants such as
irises and daisies.
POLLINAT ING AGENTS
INSECTS Many flowers. such as this loofal,
(Luffa acutangula). arc la1:ge aud brigluly
colored to attrnct insec'lS such <is beetles.
Ripe pollcu is stid1y: it adheres to the beetles
rc1rt1,x1ce unril it is carried lO a1101l1er flower.
16
FLOWER STRUCTU RE
Ourrr ffptll
(mo,1ocor srpnl)
h111e1 upal
(monoco1 1wwl)
The female reproductive pan or the
flower, which produces the seeds within
some son of fruit, is the ovary. The style,
a slender stalk , con nects the ovary with
Lhe stigma, which receives pollen. Ovary,
style, and stigma form the carpel (or
pisLil). T here may be one or several
carpels, always at the center or apex
of the flower. Surrounding the carpels
in a bisexual flower (see above) arc the
sta1n ens, the male pan or the flower.
Most s1amens have a slender filament
that supports the an ther, where pollen is
produced. Othe r flowers are single-sexed
and have on ly stamens or carpels.
BATS Scl'eral btlls fad 011 ncctai; es1,ecially
in warm ditnmcs. Some cactus flowers bloom
011ly at 11ight and emit a powcrf11f,fo11l-s111dling
sc,111 especially ro arrracr the bats. The pollc11 is
then tra11sported to orher flowers 011 the bars J111:
SEXUALITY OF F LOWERS
Femalt floh e,·s
Male
flohers
OIOECIOUS
{Slmn111 it1)
S11gnw
f('ttrnlr
Jlowe, H ilh
cm.,,ds
MONOECIOUS BISEXUAi.
(Bego,1it1 ) (Schlumbngcr11)
Some plants ha\'f bjsex1wJ flowers wi1l1 stigmas
amt sum1c11s. Oll,rr plams are monoecious, wirh
sepamte male and Jcnwlc flower's, o,· dioecious,
wirh flowers of only one sex borne 011 rc1d1 plant.
P OLLINATION
Before it can produce seeds, the flower
must first be pollinated. PollinaLion is
the transfer of (male) pollen from the
anther to the (remale) s1igma. lf a plant
pollinates itself, instead or receiving
pollen from another individual of the
same species, genetic variaLion in the
seed is reduced. The majoril)' of planlS,
especially wild species, have sysLems to
prevent selr-pollination.
With some flowers, Lheir anthers
and stigmas ripen at different times,
so that even ff pollen drops onto Lhe
stigma or the same flower, it simply
dies. So1ne (monoecious) species such
as hazel (Corylus) and corn (Zea mays)
have single-sex flowers or both sexes on
the same plant. Sometimes they are on
separate pans or the plant, as with corn,
where the male flowers are grouped a1
the top or the plant to catch the wind .
This favors cross-pollinaLion, although
selr-pollinati on is still possible.
Other (dioecious) species separaLe
male and female flowers by locating
them on different individual plants.
Examples include hollies (llex), poplars
(Populus) , willows (Salix) , the shrub
Garrya elliptica, and date pahn (Phoenix
dactylifera ). Many dioecious plants arc
wind-pollinated. A danger or this
method, in nature, is that an isolated
plant tnay be unable to set seeds.
The disadvantage of dioecious plants
for gardeners is that it may be at least
five years before plants raised from

seeds nower and may be sexed. Female
(berrying) hollies cannoLbe selecLed
for 7-20 years, for instance. In co ntrasL,
males of many willows (Salix) arc more
garden-wonhy Lhan 1he females because
their catkins are larger and showier.
P OLLINATING AGENTS
To ensure cross-pollination, plants
have evolved a wide range of ingenious
Lechniques. They often ex ploiL insects
or animals to Lransfer pollen from one
nower 10 another (see facing page). The
creaLures are anracLed by scent o r by
colored o r large petals and rewarded with
nectar, protein-rich pollen , or fleshy
petals. Orchids have some of the most
bizarre mechanisms, including nowers
shaped or smelling like female insects
to lure male insects into anempting 10
mate wilh the flowers. Bats, beetles,
bees, bunerflies, flies, smal l mammals,
and moths are all agents of pollination.
Some plants have two or three
kinds of flowers, which look simi lar.
The prominence of stigmas and stamens
differs, however, as with primroses
(Primula vulgaris), so that an insect can
pick up pollen onl)• from the stamens
of one flower or deposit pollen on the
stigma of another nower.
Other plants use wind or water LO
transfer pollen, so the flowers arc often
less conspicuous because the)' need 10
offer no "bribe," but these methods are
more wasteful and erratic.
FERTILIZATION OF A FLOWER
For fert ilization 10 occur, pollen must be
compatible and alive. The stigma must
also be receptive; usually it exudes a
HOW SEEDS DEVELOP
POLLINATED
FLO\VEI!
Onct rhe flower Jw; bcn1 ]t·r1ifi~nl.
tl11· /Jt"l<lls begin w ftrdr t111d 1/i,•11 ftrll,
and die OWH)' bcg;ns ,o swdl. The stigma
m1cl swme11s wilhtT and <lie. The Jcr1ilizccl
rgg c.t•lls (o\•ult·s) wi1l1in rht' ow,,) N1ch
<lrvclop c1 ste<I co<H (rcsta) w J>YOtfcr 1hrir
cmb,yos. while rhr uvmy wcrll Jo,·ms"
prntecti\'(' fln•er (11t-ricarp) armm<l the Si'Ctls.
Togrihrr 1hr srcds m11I /Jfricarp form the
fruit. Il mcry bf sua uk,u. whr11 the midclk
Jayer <if rhr pt'ricmv bccomfs rhicll and
flcsl,y as wi1l1 rlic rosel,i/J. o, d,y a11d hard
or pc,pCI)'. As rhe seeds maiun:, the npcning
fruil cl11111gcs color. Fleshy fn,its often ripct1
from grcc11 10 a briglu color.
SEXUAL INCREASE OF PLANTS
MONOCOTYLEDONS AND DICOTYLEDONS
Su<.l co<1t (tcsto)
See,l foaf (cm_\'1«·'1011 ) Flowering pla111s (angiosperms) are divided
into two groups. Monocot)'lcdons have one
seed leaf (co1ylcdon), usually parallel veins
on the leaves, indistinguishable petals and
\ 5.-al lwf
(cory fc,lcm)
sepals in muhiplcs of three. and nonwoody
stems. Dicotyledons have Lwo seed k-avcs,
nc1hke veins on ll1e leaves, often small
green sepals. petals usually in muhiplcs
of four or five, and thicker .!)tern:, that may
- II'- Emb,:ronic
:,hoof (pfunrnlr)
have wood)' tissue, formed by the cambium.
Embry onic ,·oOf
( uulidc)
BROAD BEAN (Viciafalxi)
DICOTYLEDONOUS SEED Tl1is gcr111inalit1g j
sectl has two seed feavcs, protected by a seed . I
CO<lt. Tire seed lem1es nwhe "I' the emb,yo. I I i
rogc1htr witl1 rhc tiny 1001 and sliom ar rhcif
bt,sc. Sometimes (as in this broad bean) the
I I I
seed lea.,es con1ai11 food storage (e11dosfJcr111). MONOCOT LEAF DICOT LEAF
suga ry so lu tion and becomes sticky. This In some plants , 1he seed's endosperm
causes the pollen grains to stick; it also completely surrounds the embryo and
provides nuirients for the pollen grain forms the storage tissue of the mature
10 germinate. If the pollen is compatible, embryo, as with onions (Allimn) . It may
it will then grow and form a pollen tube. also ac1 as a 1etnporary food reserve
The tube burrows down the style so that within the seed leaves to nourish the
male sex cel ls can enter the ovary and embryo in the earl)' stages just after
fertilize the female egg cell (ovule). germination , as with broad beans (sec
Both the male and female sex cells above) and sweeL peas (Lathyrus).
contain chromosomes (which hold In angiosperms, the endosperm
genetic material) from each parent plant , develops before the embryo, but in mos1
but in only half the quantiLy of that in gymnosperms , the embt) 'O forms first.
an ad ult plant. \>/hen a male sex cell A hard ou ter layer - the seed coat
fuses with the single egg nucleus, and or 1es1a - pro1ec1s 1he einbryo and its
the full set of chromosomes is effected, food storage from anack by fungi,
seeds begin 10 form. bacteria, insects, and animals, and from
any environmental stress such as drought,
THE STRUCTURE OF SEEDS nooding, and low and high temperatures.
Fu lly developed seeds usually The maturing seed usually dries while
consist of an embryo - a tin)' on the plant 10 prepare ii for a period of
plant with a shoot (plumule) harsh conditions. Achieving the correct
and a root (radicle) , degree of dryness, or maximum dry
together with seed leaves weight, for the embryo at full maturity is
(cot)'ledons) - that is thought to influence the seeds' capacil)'
surrounded by a mass 10 germinate in most cases.
of food (endosperm) . The amount and size of seeds varies
immensely: some are as fine as dust,
FADING BLOOM others as large as footballs. Generally
0 \ '(H)' I\ f1e11,I the smaller the seeds, the n1ore are
" " ' ' gti'('IJ
produced. Seeds arc usually enclosed.
The protective casing and fertilized
seeds form the fruit (see left) .
GYMNOSPERMS
Unlike angiosperms, the "naked" seeds
of gy1nnospcrms such as conifers are
on ly partly enclosed by tissues of the
parent plant. Conifer cones (see also
p. 71) are wind-pollinated , and seeds
~ form on the scales of female cones.
RIPE RIPE Other gymnosperms include cycads
SEEDS ROSEii iP (see also p.68) and ginkgos (see p.80).
17
INT ROD UCT lON
SPORE-BEARING PLANTS
Plants such as mosses, liverworts, ferns,
club mosses, and horsetails reproduce by
spores. A spore may look like a seed but
is asexual and develops male and remale
sex o rgans independently from the plant
that bore it. The consequent sexual stage
of reproduction can occur only in the
presence of water (see also Ferns, p.159).
M ETHODS OF SEED DISPERSAL
Once seeds have matured, the)' must
be dispersed; if they al l germinated close
to the parent plant , they wou ld compete
for water, light , and nutrients. Plants
have developed various strategies to
ensure 1ha1 their seeds arc dispersed
far and wide - one of the advantages
of seeds over vegetative pro pagation.
The rrui1s or pods that con tain the
seeds have adapted to different dispersal
,nethods. Some fruits are very si mple
and look like a big seed, such as the oak
acorn (Quercus), which has a thick shell
to protect the true, thin-coated seed
inside. Acorns arc resistan t 10 physica l
damage and can survive rolling around
the g round and being buried by animals.
Some seed coats develo p into papery
capsules or pods, as are produced by milk-
weeds and delphiniums; the pod dries
unevenly as it ripens, causing tension
in the pod walls that eventually splilS it
open lo release large nu,nbers of seeds.
The seeds either drop 10 1he ground or
are carried off on the wind (see below) .
Othe r seed pods, such as those of
Acant.l111s, wi tch hazel (Hamam el is) , and
peas (Pisum), burst explosively to expel
the seeds over quite some distance.
The successful weed, hairy biuercress
(Ca,damine /1irsuta), needs on ly 10 be
to uched o r blown gently by the wind
to cause ilS seed capsules to burst and
eject seeds. The Mediterranean squirting
cucumber (Ecballium elateri11111) has a
Long flower ~wll:
,,:?
l1Jp'k•."'"
H ERON'S BILL (ERODIUM MANESCAVII) SEEDS
Each scedhelUl co11sis1s offive seeds will, "tails ...
Ripe seedhet1ds /11/1 a1111r1, 1111d 1hc seeds dro/1
onro rite wc1n11 soil. Ec1d1tail coils lilte <1 s1,ring
within ten minutes, enabling the seed lO screw
i1self into the soil. T/i, /irocess can be 1riggeretl
by placing a seed 011 the w11rm palm of the hall(/.
18
TYPES OF FRUIT
BERRY CA PSULE
(Cape goo::.cbcrry) ( Poppy)
PO M E
(Apple)
COMPOUND FRUIT NUT
( Ra-,phcrry) (Chc~1 1lt11)
pod that fills with liquid as it ripens
until the pressure bursts the pod fro m
the stalk, expelling a stream of seeds
and juice as it flies through the ai r.
Seeds of some planlS, for example
grasses and amaryllis (rlippeas1ru111),
gen11inate as soon as they ripen, even
while still on the parent plan t ir
conditi ons are suitably wet. The
germinating seeds then fall into the
moist soil and grow immediately.
S EED DISPERSAL BY ANIMALS
Plants often have fleshy fruilS to 1cmp1
animals to visit the plant and provide
someth ing for the animals lo eat. The
animals do 1101 then need to digest the
seeds, which often have more nutrients.
The seeds pass unbanned through
an animal's digestive system and are
deposited in droppings ( a ready-made
seedbed) far away fron1 the parent plant.
Fleshy fruits include berries (grape,
Viris) , drupes, or stone fruits, with si ngle
seeds (plum, Pnmus), and pomes with
several seeds (apple, Malus). Com pound
fleshy fruilS include the pineapple
(A11a11as) and raspbc rr)• (Rubus idaeus),
strictl y collections of drupelets.
Many seeds and fruits have various
appendages that are capable of latching
on to an imal hair or feathers, some
ve1y tenaciously. Such seedheads may
be transported over a g reat distance
before the unfortunate anima l is able to
dislodge them. The burrs of burdocks
..
.·-,. :· .
.
...
.. ..
.•
CONE
(Pinc)
-~
I
'
LEGUM E
( POD)
(61ockcyc pcos)
/_
DR UPE
(Aprit:01)
(Arctiu,11 ) and cleavers (Galium) cling
to fur and clothes tenaciously.
WIND DISPERSAL OF SEEDS
Many seeds arc very small and carried
by the wind. It is an economical method
o r transport because ii demands less
energy from the plant 10 produce a ligh t,
tin y seed than a large one with a flesh)'
frui l. Minute seeds are produced in great
numbers 10 compensate for the reduced
li keli hood of landing o n suitable soi l.
Rhododendrons , and especially
orch ids, have ex tremely light seeds,
which are carri ed on the wind. Other
seeds have developed structures to keep
thc,n airborne. The seeds of willowhcrb
(Epilobi11111) are plum ed (see fac ing page);
those of dandelions (Taraxacum) and
lcuuce have featherlike parachutes.
Ai lanthus, ash (F,·axinus), and maples
(Acer ) have pro,ninent, papery wings
that spin like helicopter blades ( these
winged seeds are known as sarnaras).
S EED DISPERSAL BY WATER
Plants that have adapted to growing in
water or alongside watercourses produce
seeds or fruilS that are waterproof and
buoyanl. Seeds of the swamp cypress
(TcL~odium distichum) may be carried
awa)' b)' streams and rivers before the)'
germinate. One o r the most successful
travelers o n water is the coconut fruit
(Cocos 1111cifer<1); it can survive a voyage
across an en tire ocean (see faci ng p<1ge).

METHODS OF SEED DISPERSAL
8\' SI A Tiu- cocmwt palm gmw-. mi tlit· slum:, so
somrfruirs dwp i11to d1t· ,;rel. /\i, H«f)prcl wirhi11
tl1c fibers of i,s outt·1 hu:,I~ mahfs a c,,ccmut \ l'I)'
lmoy<mr, allmdng ir tv cl, 1ft 011 <,cr,m cuncnt'i. Jt
gcrmi,wrcs whr11 wm,licd up 011 a ,lisw,u slune,
S EED DORMANCY
Seeds are regarded as being dormant
if they fail to germinate when placed
under conditions that arc considered
adequate for the species. The conditions
include adequate temperature, moisture,
air, and , in some cases. light. 1r these are
present, nondormant seeds should soon
germinate after absorbing water.
In areas where the seasons alternate
between wann sunu11ers and cold .
winters, or where dry and wet seasons
persist, dormancy prevents seeds from
germinating as soon as they are ripe
at the end or the growing season. The
seed lings would be killed either through
extreme cold or heal or from drought.
Dormancy also results in staggered
gennination or seeds in the wild, thereby
reducing competition between seedlings.
Seed dormancy is usually caused by a
hard seed coal (pericarp). an immature
embryo, or chemical inhibition of the
ON ·1111! WIND Smm·
/>Imus produce fluffy
}cr,ll,cculs that contc1in
small. light seeds with
11lumt:,, such lb thb
mscbn) willowhrrl>
(Epilobium
a11gustifolium).
Tht~plumt·s enal>lc
tl1e sec.·,ls to be a1rricd
ovc~ long clistcmu-~ 0 11
tht• wind. In rhis wa) ,
the plam ca11 colonize
\'Cl')' lw·gc W't:<iS.
crnbryo. According to the difficult)' with
which the dormancy is broken, it is also
described as shallow, intermediate, or
deep-seated dormant)'.
Gardeners can overco1ne dormancy in
several ways (see below). \,Vhcn dorrnant
seeds have been primed for germination,
the)' must be kept stable. An)' change
in conditions, such as increased heat,
dr)'ness. or lack of Ox)'gen , will pro1npt
the seeds 10 enter a secondary donnancy,
which is extremely difficult to break.
S EED-COAT DORMANCY
Some seed coats contain waterproofing
that is gradually broken down by low
temperatures. Further deca)' of the seed
coat is caused by bacteria and fungi in
the soil. Unti l a seed absorbs moisture . it
will not germinate. Dr)•ing of a seed coat
as il ripens can also cause dormanC)'·
Ph)'Sical degrading of the seed coat -
scarification - allows 1noisture to reach
the seed embr)'o. This can be achieved
by rubbing seeds against an abrasive
surface such as sandpaper. Large seeds
can be chipped with a knife. Only a
small area should be re111oved, and care
n1ust be taken not to damage the seeds.
Crack large nuts carefully in a vise.
Commerciall)', seeds are soaked in acid.
but this is too dangerous for gardeners.
Collecting seeds as soon as the)' are
full)' developed , but earl)' in the
development of the seed coat , reduces
the time needed 10 decompose the seed
coat, so germination is 111orc reliable.
Primula seeds germinate almost at
once if sown while full)' matured but
before they dry. They are much slower
to germinate once dry and released from
the pod naturally. If hornbeam (CC1rpi1111s
berulus) seeds are left on the tree until
1nidwinter, the seed coats harden and
delay germination for 2-3 years.
Seeds with a water-repellent covering
on the seed coat, such as Glcditsil1 and
Fremo11tode11dro11, may be soaked in hot
water. This extracts the waterproofing.
allowing the seeds to absorb water.
SEXUAL INCREASE OF PLANTS
Subjecting the seeds to a temperature
change - called stratification after the
practice of chilling seeds in la)•ers or
sand - either before or after sowing is
the simplest and often the most effective
option , emulating in pan the natural
process. Seeds of alpine plants and many
trees and shrubs respond well to this.
The period of chilling depends upon
the severity of the dormancy. Seeds with
shallow dormancy may need 3-4 weeks.
those with intermediate dormancy need
4-8 weeks, and those with deep-seated
dormancy between 8-20 weeks. Once
30 percent or seeds have embryo roots,
ther can all be sown.
E MBRYO DORMANCY
With some plants, such as orchids, holly
(!lex) , and some Viburnum. the embryo
is not fully developed when the seed is
ripe. This results in co,nplex donnancy.
Seeds with rudimentary or immature
embryos will not germinate after seed
dispersal unti l the embryo develops
further. This is normally achieved by
subjecting seeds to warm temperatures
for 60 days at 68°F (20°C) , as is received
during the first summer following the
dispersal or ripe seeds in nature.
Once the embryo has fully matured
germination may follow, but the seeds
may also have seed coat or chemical
dormancy, as with F1axi11us excelsior
and peonies. These conditions can be
relieved b)' natural or artificial chilling
of 8-20 weeks at 3+-36°F ( l-2°C). for
germination in the second spring.
C HEMICAL DORMANCY
Seeds borne in neshy fruits, such as
those or magnolias, roses. or Sorl>us, arc
often inhibited from (co11ti1111ecl 011 p.20)
VIABILITY OF SEEDS
Seed!), according to their habits in the wild
and mmslltre content, have differing life
spans. Some. especially ncshy seeds. die
very quickly so need lo be sown as soon
as they npcn; others. paniculari)' dry seeds.
such as those of beans or tomatoes. can be
kept for up IO ten years. Corrccl storage,
in dark, dry conditions below 39°F (~°C).
can prcscn,c viabilit )',
but exposure to higher
Lemperau.1res or increased
humidity may kill seeds
or encourage prcma1urc
Calcndula
suds
19
INTRODUCT ION
BREA KI NG SEED DORMANCY
ANIMALS Some se.·cds. such as nuts, lun•f HP)'
lwrcl own· coms. rJ1r:,,r ,,,mar du.· srrds b111
(1lso pn-Hnt nwistun· Jrnm rt."uching the srah.
t\nimafs such as ,his Sff11irrd c·m some nuti but
only ,t,wiagt· 1l1r ~hdls ,if mhcrs. \\'t-uer can thl'n
1mss 1h1t>ugh to rl,c seeds mul inititrtc gcnninorion.
(continued from p.19) gennina1ing b)'
a chemical suppressant in the seed coat.
II is normally degraded during passage
through an animal's gut. To overcome
this dormancy, the nesh should be
cleaned off the seeds before the)' ripen.
Some seeds are triggered 10 germinate
by chemicals in smoke. This happens in
areas 1ha1 experience bush fires, such as
Australia and South Africa. Che,nicals
in the smoke prompt seeds 10 germinate
when existing plants have been burned
off, thus reducing competition for 1he
seedlings. Previously, some seeds were
treated by direct heat, which worked
as long as smoke was generated. Now
difficul1-10-germina1e seeds can be
smoked in large numbers wit hout heat
or soaked in chemical solutions. Fire
also aclS 10 crack or damage the hard
coats of seeds, such as I hose of I he
waule (Acacia), facilitating germination.
C ONDITIONS NEEDED FOR GERMINATION
Before a dried seed can begin 10 grow
it must be rehydrated; wa1er causes
the seed coat 10 swell and burst. Mos1
20
H EAT A1'D $~JOKE
Plcuus n<Ui\'e w circas
thm t"<pcricncr bush
}ires hm•c srrds- llwr
ofu·n lie donmmr wit ii
fin..· <lrstmvs co1111,t'r111g
)llt1111 life. ·11,r !1t·t11
of bush fires malus
1!1t· 1111rd frui 1s of
~ome plmus. such
as Banksia. 1)01' opn1
ro rd('ase Jhi~ sa<ls.
Chemicc,h in smohc
rriggcr gcrminarum
i11 ,ccds of ))Imus such
as Eriostcmon.
seeds double in size before germinating.
Develop1ne111 of 1he seed embryo is
a complex biochemical ac1ivil)', and
large amoun ts of oxrgen are needed LO
un lock 1he seed's energ)' reserves. If the
soil or soi l mix is frozen , compacted,
waterlogged, o r baked hard, oxygen will
not reach the seed embr)'O, and i1 will
no1 be able 10 respire ("brea1he").
Usuallr germination is prompted
by temperatures typical of spring in
the plant's na tural habitat , allowing the
seedlings time lo become establ ished
before the fol lowing wi111er. Sui1able
temperatures vary considerably. Fra.xi11us
excelsior germinates at 36°F (2°C) if its
complex dormancy has been overcome.
In contrast, seeds of zonal geraniums
germinaie best at 77°F (25°C).
A median 1empera1ure for nower and
vegetable seeds from 1empera1e climates
is usually -16-64°F (8-18°C) or 59-75°F
( l 5-24°C) for plants from warmer
climates. Germ inati on can be delayed
in high 1e1npera1ures. Supplying heat
in excess of 1ha1 needed for germination
by artificial means is was1eful and costl y
and may cause a secondary dormancy.
HOW A SEED GERM INATES
Sn-,1 lnnr, \ \
, ~\
I (
')' l
~
H YPOGE,\L GERMINATION 011cc the roor
emerges, rite cmlnyo11ic shoo, (plunmlr) is
,,ushcd upwmd, lcCI\ ing rhc sce<I lctn•f."s bdrind
in the soH. lhc." plumulc rhcn rmc,gts abOV(' 11,c
soiJ and protluas its fi rst rruc km·t·~.
Some seeds need light for germ ination,
especially ve1y fine seeds that have
li1tlc or no food reserves 10 nourish the
embryo. These include cress (Lepidium
sar.ivum) , lenuce (Lactuca), and birch
(Betufa). Artificial ligh1 can be used
(see p.42) , but it should suffice 10 cover
sown seeds lightly with soil mix o r top-
d ress wi1h vermiculi te 10 expose 1hen1 to
natural ligh t d uring spring and summer.
Nearly all seeds, if sown 100 deepl)',
either die in time or become dorman t
because they cannot recognize when 1he
surface light is sufficie111 for growth. As
a rule of thumb, seeds are best covered
10 no ,nore 1han 1heir own depth.
Some seeds ca11 de1ec1 the levels
of red in light lo avoid germinating in
shade, such as under trees, where 1he
green leaves absorb red ligh1 waves.
How A SEED GERMINATES
There are two basic ways in which seeds
germinate (see below). Plants such as the
tomato (Lycopersicon) and beech (Fagus)
emerge b)' elevating the seed leaves
above the surface (epigeal germination)
at the same time as the root radicle
develops. If the shoot tip is frosted or
killed, no funher grow1h is possible.
Hypogeal germination occurs wi1h
plants such as the pea ( Pisum) , oak
(Quercus) , and some bu lbs , when the
seed leaves remain in 1he soil with the
rool. The growing shoo1 emerges only
when 1he first true leaves form . If the
seed is buried deep enough, it has a
good chance of survival if the shoot 1ip
is damaged and can produce a secondary
shoo1 or shoolS. Hypogeal germination
causes difficuh)' for gardeners because il
may be many months after germina1ion
before any sign of grow1h is visible.
Once germination begins, if the
optimum levels of moisture, light, air, or
warm1h change, 1he seed will quick!)' die.
T,uc kmn
Scccl kcnt·,
~
f)
1
f.
~
~
, ,;,t\
- ,(
,,"
__,,
,
EPIGEAL GERMINATION Thr growrh of the
sccclS root l'ushcs 1hr ph,muk aml its protective
seed fcm 0111 of the soil. 'flic see<l lc<1\'CS arc
1 (·~
bornt· m 11,e rip of ll1c gn,wing slwo1 unril die
first trnt· lc.'<1N'S an· pmclun·cl.

HOME SEED GATHERING
As a general rule, if gathering seeds from
1he garden, 1he)' should be from a species,
not a hybrid. Seed lings from a hrbrid
(unless stabilized 10 breed 1rue 10 1rpc) will
be extreme!)' variable; some mar be as good
or even bcucr than the parent, but kw wil1
be the same. Ideally. gat her seeds from a
vigorous plant wi1h typical characteristics
that seeds prolifically. If 1hc pla111 is isolated
from similar species. 1hc risk of natural
hybridization is less and 1he seed lings
GATHERING SEEDS Cmha sccdhcads (here
of lwllyhoclls, Alcea) as stum as rlu.y ripn1.
then clcn11 the srcds f1>r storing or sowing.
HYBRIDIZATION
The exchange or maternal and paternal
genetic material in plants by the sexual
produc,ion or seeds, is fundamental 10 a
plant's ability 10 adapt 10 environmental
change, bu t il can be exploited 10 b reed
new plants (hybrids) with improved
color, form, habit, disease resista nce,
or scent 10 suit the needs of gardeners.
A hybrid is a cross between two
different plants. The d ifferences ma>'
be minimal if the hybrid is between
two selections or 1he same plant , or thC)•
may be more significant if the cross is
between two species. Occasionally, the
hybrid may be between two different
genera. (A cuhivar - short fo r culti vated
variety - mar be a hybrid but is 1101
necessarily so. It may be a named form
or a species, s u ch as a variegated sport ,
that first arose in cultivation.)
If hybrids are produced from crossing
two unrelated plants, the offspring often
have great vigor, in the same manner
as mongrel dogs are often ver)' healt hy.
Conversely, if p lan ls are self-pollinated
for several general ions, the)' tend 10 lose
vigor, as in inbred ped igree dogs.
In commercial hybridizing, parent
plan ts are screened over time 10 ensu re
that they are stable and will breed true.
Two parents that each show some of the
desired 1rai1s are selec1ed. One parent is
usually then chosen as the seed (female)
parent and the other as the pollen (male)
parent. Flowers on the seed parent
have their stamens removed as soon
as possible 10 avoid self-pollination and
arc hand-pollinated wi th pollen from the
should "come irue." closely resembling 1he
parenls. The advantages or home-gat hering
seeds ;:ire various.
• Seeds with low viabilil)' have a bcucr
rate of germmation if sown fresh.
• Gathering seeds a, 1he point of ripeness
can avoid sccd~coat dormancy occurring.
Earl)' collec1ion also enables prcsowing
trea11nc1us lllat b.-cak complex dormancies
lOhave effect before the most suitable
sowing date for germinat ion .
• /\ large number of plants may be obrninecl
at liulc COSl.
• Seeds from the garden oftcn 1 Jroducc plams
1ha1 arc beucr adapted 10 local condi1 ions.
Home gathered vegetable seeds may be
particularly adaptable. A hardy parent does
1101 necessarily produce hardy offspring, bu,
ii is more likely.
• Increasing stocks of rare plants from
gaihered seeds helps conserve pla111s in
1he wild by reducing dcm;ind.
• Stocks of plants, especially vegetables,
1ha1 arc no longer available commercially
may he pre.served and genetic diversily
whhin the genus promoted.
pollen parent 10 guarantee the parentage
o f each seed. The seed parent is also
protected from contam ination by insect
pollina1ors by covering each flower with
a bag or by keeping the plant under
cover until seeds form.
The first hybrid (Fl) gcncra1ion is
uniform (see below). If the Fl hybrids
are crossed, the second (F2) generation
wi ll present the grower with a range
or forms reflecting both parcnLS, the
F 1 generation, and others. Often, the
offspring arc selected and hybridized
with another p lant 10 introduce further
traits, or with siblings or one or the
original paren ts 10 further reinforce
HOW HYBRIDS ARE CREATED
PARENTS
Fl RST-FI LIAL (FI)
HYBRIDS
SECON D•Fl LIAL (F2) MYllRIDS
SEXUAL INCREASE OF PLANTS
desirable characteristics. Fl hybrids
arc frequen tl y disease-resistant and offer
a guarantee of performance , but they
tend 10 flower at the same time and the
seeds cost more than F2 seeds. For the
vegetable grower, Fl seeds ensure a
good crop. F2 or species seeds can give
herbaceous flowering p lanLS or good
qualil)' that flower su ccessively.
How TO HYBRIDIZE A GARDEN PLANT
Breeding a con11nerciall)' successful and
s table hybrid is usually an ex pensive and
laborious task , but the amateur gardener
can have run experimenting wi1h this
technique. Some genera, such as dahlias,
irises, or roses, lend themse lves lo
hybridizing on an amateur scale, often
producing qu ite p leasing seed lings.
Indeed , many h)'brids that a re now on
the market were originally produced by
amateur gardeners.
Home hybridizing is not ver)'
complicated but requires a methodical
approach and a great dea l or patience.
It helps 10 concentrate on one s pecies
or genus. Have a specific aim, say Lo
produce larger-flowered red-hot pokers
that are hardy lO -36°F (-20°C) or a
range or double-flowered Orien ta l
poppies. Do some research 10 find out
if any characteristics that you are ai1ning
for in the hybrid a re evident within
the species or genus. Then select
parents that ma)' be of interest and start
h)'briclizing, c rossing and backcrossing,
selecting and reselecting 1he progeny.
Although p lants differ in their flower
fo rms, the hybridization procedure is
basically the same (for details, see Roses,
pp.116-7). Useful tools include s mall ,
fine paintbrushes for transferring pollen;
a pair or strong tweezers and fine, sharp
scissors: labels; fine net or muslin bags
lo place over pollinated flowers; and a
notebook 10 record all the crosses.
S11crt's..y'11I liybridi::ing requires rwo /)(fft'tu 11lwus
(hen.· smrpdmgcms) wirh swhk charactcris1ics.
11s1wll., • s11ctic~ m· sdccriom, of a s11tcics ftom
the smne gnws "'; less often, species from two
gcnfm. \Vhcn O'Ossed, thf pcuruts will produce
offspring with m1iform charactaistic~. and thf
n.·sults will be rhe same from subscc1ucnr crosses.
This fl, sr gc11amio11 is ci,11«1 rl,c Ji, sr-flliul.
111 F J, liybrid. If rhe F J hyb1ids are cmss-brcd
with tJ1c111sdvcs. rhc second gC'ncrmion. or F2
ltybricls. will cxhibir a range offo1111s wirl,
clwrnctcristics reflecting lmth the pcu-c:nts mul
rh1~FI hybrids in wuy ing clt·gn·cs.
21
INTRODUCTION
VEGETATIVE PROPAGATION
I n nature, some plants tan reproduce
asexuall y, or vegetatively, as well as
sexually from seeds. The new plant is
nearl)' alwa)'S gene1icall)' iden tical to
the parent (a clone), although minor
mu tations can occasionally occur.
Vegetative propagation exploits this
natural abil ity and extends it 10 involve
the separation of vegetative pans of
plant tissue such as roots, shoots, and
leaves. Gardeners are able by these
means 10 propagate from a single plant
and to preserve characteristics such as
variegation in the offspring. The various
methods used include division, cuuings,
layering, and g rafting.
DIVISION
Strictly, division is the separation of one
plant into several self-supporting ones.
It utilizes the habit of many plants that
produce a mass of close!)' knit shoots
or buds, forming a clump, or crown,
of growth . The clump can be split into
sections, each with al leas! one shoot or
bud and its own roots. This is qu ick and
eas)' but )'ields only a few new plants.
In temperate climates, division is
often carried out when the plant starts
into growth in spring. Water loss is
minimized because of the lack of leaves,
and roots grow quickly to reestablish 1he
d ivision. ln tropical areas, divide plants
whenever convenient: always trim the
leaf area 10 reduce moisture loss, and
provide shade and adequate water.
Naturally dividing alpines, such as
Cwnpmwla ga,.ganica, Raoulia australis,
and Saxif,.aga paniculata (see below, left),
and herbaceous plants wilh fibrous
roots, such as Achillea, Aster (see be/011;
center), Phlox, and Stohesia, are simpl)'
pulled aparl. Young c rowns are easier
10 deal with than old, wood)' ones.
DIVISION OF CLUMP-FORM ING PLANTS
i\lntutt· l'(.))fflt' 011
JHUt'III <WWII
- ''
Plwulct
e1l,eculy Jw~
go"'J ,m,r,
Nt\TCRALLY DI VIDING t\LPINI! Plmlls such (b
rhis Saxifraga paniculata produce new 1>lm11l1 ls
1
each ycor around rhc J><11r111 crown. Dh1iding
rhc pfanr is II simpk rash: lif1 rhe 1>111111 all(/
gently 1mll 1111· 1>lwirlc1s "1""' for rcplmirrng.
22
Herbaceous plants with fleshy roots and
b uds, such as Astilbe, hellebores, and
hosias (see below, right), are rather 1nore
difficult to divide without damage. Semi·-
woody herbaceous plants are usually
evergreen; these include Astelia, pampas
grass (Cortadetic1), Phonnium, and Yucca
Jilamentosa. They produce swordlike
leaves from ground level, c rowded in
dense terminal clusters, each wi th its
own roots. Clumps are spl it with a sharp
border spade or mauock. Young plants
are easier to tackle.
A small nu,nber of wood)' shrubs and
trees, including Acer circinatwn, Aesculus
parviflora, and Aronia x pnrnifolia, form
clumps of growth from suckers below
soil level: these can be removed 10 make
new plants. Young parent plants may
be lifted compleiel)' before divid ing the
clumps, but leave the central core intact.
The term "division" is also widely
used to refer 10 processes similar to
true division , fo r instance the separation
[rom a paren t plant of offsets of bu lbs
or cacti, o f orch id pseudobulbs, and of
rooted suckers and rooted runners.
CUTTINGS
Propagation from cuuings explo its the
remarkable abilit)' of a piece of plant
tissue , from the stem, leaf, root , or bud,
to regenerate into a fu lly developed
plan t, with roo ts and shoots. In this
regenerative process, roots arising from
stem, leaf, o r bud tissue are known as
adventitious roots.
To produce these, a g roup of growth
(meristematic) cel ls, usually close to the
cen tral core of vascular (sap-ca rrying)
tissue, c hanges, becoming root initials
(root cells), which form roo1 buds and
then adventitious roots. These are also
called "induced" o r "wound " roots
lfraltliy -~ . ,
s,wo, w1cl \
0015
' filu<Ju~ roOls '
I. .
FIBROUS-ROOTl;l) 111:IUIACEOUS PERENNIAi.
Clumps with Jibrou)) mOIS (here of Aster
umbcllatus) <ire easily pulled or n it aport inro
pieces rhar will eswblisl, q11icl1ly. Ckcm off rhr
soiJ w rcvcol rhr 11<1111raf lines of division.
ADVENTITIOUS BUDS
A few, mostly succulcnr
plmirs, for cx11111plc
rliis Kalanchoc
daigremont iana,
con reJ)roducc
,.,gcuuive/y by
pmtlucing tiny
pl<mlle1s. called
(l(lvc111i1ious
buds, 011 1!1e leaf
margins. \Vhcn
fully formed, rl,c
plcmrlcrs drop IO
rhc ground crud
r'Oot into die soil.
lhese 1>rovide a
ve,)' easy means
of propag<11io11.
because, in most plants, the)' occur only
after some type of wound ing, such as
culling off a piece o f bark.
ln some plants, such as iv)' (Hedera).
poplars (Populus), and many in the mint
fam ily (rosemary and salvias), preformed
root initials lie dormant in stems, so the)'
root rapid ly and easily from cuuings. A
few plants, such as Pnmus 'Coh', even
form root buds, normal!)' visible at the
bases of shoots. O ther, often hardy,
woody plan ts are d ifficult 10 root: with
these, callusing (sec facing page) may
hinder root formation , and ii may be
best 10 graft (see p.27).
P REPARING CUTTINGS
Most cuuings a re ta ken from a plant
stem; they may be severed between the
leaf joints, o r nodes, (i,uernodal culling)
or just below a node (nodal culling).
Nodal cuuings expose the 111051 vascular
r
F LESfl Y-nOOTED H ERBACEOUS PERENNIAi.
Plm1rs sud1trs rliis hosw Jllfve a compacted crown
1lurt is difficult w di\ ide witho111 dwnaging die
1
pro11c>1111cctl,flcshy buds mul roots. Pull ir apnrt
inw pieces with at leasr one bud <uul goocl r'uots.
PREPARING CUTTI NGS

Htd , o,1U1in~ high

fevds of growll1
horrno,1e aucl 1>ro1a1s
rntting c,gai11s1 rot

lcka11, Ji,i (2.5cm) ,. .___ Ad\r11titious

sl1wp lrnijf
,. _·,fuas , isl:
of dfaf€l~C
NODAL CUTTING T/1(' cells
im•olvctl in growth (lfe· most
rm1cc11tratcd at ll,e leafjoints.
o, nodes. so mosr cuttings me
Irimmed JUSt bt'ltJw c, mulr w
01,rimi;:e.· mot fonmrtion.
ml ~xposcs rool~ growi11g
G,ccn pilli (tu11Jnu111 1hn:mgf1 tullm pad
\ VOUNOING A cwringfwm H EEL CUTTING Same CALI.USING \VJ1cn a stl·m is c111 or woun<kd. ii
scmi•ripe or lrar<I wood often c111ti11gs, tSJJCcially of semi· forms arUus rissur (sec inset) O\'C,. lhr dcmwgcd
roms more n.·mtily if barJ, is cur ripe woocl, life wl:e11 by JJHlling cells. l11 clifjkulr-w-mot />Imus, or if the soil mix
""'"Y from the /)(1Sc of the stem. mvc,y a small si<kshoor so that is t<>o aerated or allwlinc (/1igh pH). ,he cc1//us
This , xpost·s nwre of the growth
1
it re1ai11s a "heel" of /Jar/1 from pact nwy rhicl:eu, p,tvrnting ,001 growth. Jf rhis
<t"II,; in rhc cmubiwu frryf,: tl1e main slioot . Jwppcns, ,xrre mw,y d1t~excess with a scalpel.

tissue, increasing the likel ihood of root TYPES OF CUTTI NG

formation (see above). Other wa)'S of
encouraging rooting include wou nding
(see above), especia l!)' of wood)' plan Ls,
and the appl icat ion of hormone rooting
compound (see p.30). The growing li p HARDWOOD
ma)' also be removed from a culling 10 umg lc11gtl1s
red istribute natural growth honnones Nch 'lhOOI\ offully 11u1tur<,
(auxins) 10 the rest of the stem for root groh f,om young stems are
and shoot growth. eoch "°'re, talle11 after leaf
Curli11g fall a11c/ before
( Hyc.lrangea)
TYPES OF CUTTING l1i111111ecl just
new growth
Dal'k, womly
Cuttings are taken from stems, leaves, or swrts in sprit1g
roots (see right). There are several l)'pes.
SOFTWOOD cu, TINGS These arc usually
taken from the first flush of growth in
bdow n0<k 1--
.bose ( \\.cigela)
/'
from deciduous
woody plmus
(here of willow)
spring. They have the highest rooting or broadleaved
poten tial of stem cuuings but a low evc,g~ens.
surviva l rate. They lose water and wih
quick!)', as well as being vulnerable to
,.
bruising, which ma)' expose the foliage ,
and stem 10 attack fro,n botr)'tis (rot) . S01•1-wOOD These an~wlien SEM H UPE Once new growrh
GRt:ENWOOD CUTTINGS The s tems are from new sliom tips (srcm·lip lws slowed cmd rl1r shoors
still young but beginning to firm up. c11ui11g~) or basal shoots (lmscd have srancd to becm11e Jinn,
The)' are easier 10 handle than softwood stem cuttings) mosr often in whid1 may bf from midsunuuer
cultings and not so prone to wilting. SJ>ring. when they are alniost ro {111tw1111 , stmi·ripc c11ui11gs
SEMI-RIPE CUTTINGS \Nhe n stems are fully developed b11t still soft. are Wilen from the s1rms.
finner and buds have developed, the)'
are sem i-ri pe. Cuui ngs ma)' be taken Pan.•,u lc,if Plmlllfl (Bcgoni,.I) Nt·w shoot
with a heel, especial!)' from broadleaved ( P:1ch)•phylum) /onns h l1crr \'CUI (Camc:llh4)
evergreens and conifers.
liARDWOOD CUTTINGS These are from
"'"' CUI I wilf dt'YdOJ>
from kcif bud
dorman t wood. They are slower lo root
but robust and not prone to drying out.
LEAF-nuD curri NGS O ften taken from Lc<ifgi\'t"S
nutne111s
shrubs, these provide an econom ical for 1YJ(lti11g
wa)' of usi ng se,ni-ri pe stems.
LEAF CUTTINGS A few plants can r---;,;-,,:iS
regenerate new plan ts fro,n a detached
leaf or section of leaf tissue. These
include members of the fam ilies
Begoniaceae (see p.190), Crassulaceae
(see p.245), and Gesneriaceae (see p.207).
h is possible 10 root leaves of plan ts
.__·_ _. ~. '
,'...
;\
'"
'\
L<'af
sc·c1ion
I
I -.
·,
•

such as Clematis, Hoya, and M,ihon ia, WHOLE LEAF Some PART LEAF A Jew LEAF-BUD Se111i-ri1,e ROOT Lengths of
but lhey cannot produce buds so can ,,Imus have cfonnanr ,,1a11ts rfge11ermc from cuttings with o shorr healthy. st ro11g root
never develop into complete plan ts. buds oc , he le"f lxiscs. lcof 1issue. TCll<e le"J stem and one leaf ccrn of pencil Of medium
ROOT CUTTINGS A lim ited range of Th<·se product· 11t'h ' sect ions or wo111ul be ta,:rn from some rltidrness for the ,,1m,t
plants - ones that naturally produce plmus wl1c11 lc{1vcs lcm·es m any timr in planes to obtain uwre c,111 be when in die
shoots, or suckers, (co111i1111ed 0 11 p.24) arc rremcd as curtings. the gmwiug seoson. c1mings from one srem. domuwl seC1scm.

23
INTRODUCTION
(continued fl'om p.23) from the roots,
such as Accrnthus mollis (see p.158) and
Rhus typhina - can be propagated from
root cuttings (see p.23). Their roots arc
usually lhick and ncshy, in order to store
the food that allows the root to survive
as ii produces shoots.
Success WITH CUTTINGS
The process of taking cuuings is
relatively simple, but success will
depend on several factors. The
inherent ability of the parent plant
to produce adventitious roots will
determine the degree of care needed I
10 coax cuttings to root. Also, the
cond ition of the parent innuences / nuu1crs thm arc nourished hy the fJ(11c111 until dwy root
the quality of 1he rooted cuuing.
Always choose a healthy p lant;
diseases or pests can be transmitted to
a cutting. Material taken from young
plants, especially when in active growth,
is usually more likel)' 10 root. Water the
paren t plant 1horoughl)' a few hours
beforehand so that the tissue is fully
turgid, especially for leaf), cuuings .
Prepare and insert cuuings quickl)'
10 avoid losing moisture through
transpiration. Hygi ene is also essential
10 avoid introducing disease into a
cuuing through cu1s or wounds. Keep
surfaces and equipment clean (sec p.30).
The culling tools should be sterile and
as sharp as possible to avoid crushing
plant cells along the cut.
In wann climates, cuttings of many
plants may be rooted outdoors, directly
USING STOCK PLANTS FOR PROPAGATION
A stock plant is grown purely to provide
cutting material. It can be encouraged 10
produce the best type of grow1h for cuttings
while plants tha1 arc grown for garden
display can be lcf1 untouched.
A s1ock phm1 should be health)•. mamre,
:;ind vigorous, with compact. bushr growth
and lots of young shoots. It should be a
good example of ilS type: for insrnnce. i1
should nowcr and frui1 well. Cunings from
such plants root more easilr and give better
results. Avoid diseased plants. especially
those infected b)' virus, because diseases
Mound of opt'n
soil actdrd
whtn shoots
me 6-8rn
• __ t( l5-20cm) wtl
,,
--- ,-
,,,,'
-- ,_
---
Scul rncouragts Cur roo1cd
n~w shoot ro ,001 lnyr,.; in t.1urumn
24
NATURAL LAYERING
Plmitlt·h fo,m
,11 fr11_f ,wdc:.
_ Roots de.·\ dop
J whr1f ,u,mt't
J tmid1n :,011
/
SEIS- LAYERING Scm1t' pla,us ,wturcdly 1fprml11cc b)
laycting. Plcmts wirh nmnns, ~urh as ground ivy
(Glcchoma hcderacca). 1,ro<l11cc plm11lr1s alm,g 11,d,
inro chc soil. Rootc,l ~tems nn· ct1s1ly lifted wul divickd.
inserted into prepared soi l in shade at
almost an)' time of year. In colder areas,
a controlled environment is often vi1al;
rooting may be unpred ic table and slow.
Bouom heat of 59-77°F (15-25°C)
can pro1no1e rooting. The air should
be much cooler 10 avoid encouraging
growth of foliage instead of roots. The
rooting 1nediun1 (see pp.32-5) should
be moist at all times and the air humid,
especiall)' with leafy cunings. (See The
Propagation Environment, pp.38-45.)
The time taken for a cuuing to root
depends upon the plant, the type of
cuuing, age of the stem, how il was
prepared, and the rooting environ1nen1.
Leafy cuuings root in about three weeks;
woody cuuings take up 10 five 1non1hs.
can be passed on 10 cunings. The age or a stock
plant can affect its abili ty 10 roo1. New planl
introductions. especially ones se1ectecl from
seecl1ing.s. often show vastly improved rooting
capaci1y o"cr older plantS of the same species.
There arc sc.veral ways of concliLioning a
st0ck plam 10 improve its regenerative abilil)'·
I ligh potassium levels and a pH appropriate to
the plant in 1hc growing mC'clium, good light,
and a restricted root run ensure high energy
reserves for root and shool development in
culling material. Hard pruning will produce
strong basal shoots for cunings. Subjecting
Ttv\OlTIONAL
STOOLING A yo1mg.
stmng stod: shrub is
cut hard lxrcll in fme
wi111r1 or early sp,ing
tuul new shoots are
mounded with soil
(sec left) IO p1od11ce
motl'il foyers in the
crutumn, all of which
,ire rtmovcd. The b1.1se
(s100/) will send "I'
new slwms next year.
Srh \hVOI P,1rrn1
j:1<n, m~J,<>m 11odr Slt'lll
cm JXlffltl )lt'm
RoOlt'd
fo,,c,
TIP LAYERING A few sluubs llllll
climbers, 1wlt1bly brambles (Rubus).
will roo1 from 1/ac rips of rheir long.
arching ~ttms, Ona· thr new shoo,
forms. lltt mmcd tiJJ can be dcwchtd.
LAYERING
Some plants have a natural propensity
10 regenerate by self-layering - fanning
adventitious roots from the stems where
they touch the soil (see above, left).
Such plants include Cmnpsis, Hytl,-angea
a110111ala subsp. petiolaris (see p.131), and
ivy (Netlel'<1) . Some form new plants by
tip layering (see above).
These tendencies arc exploited in
layering, in which s tems in active
growth are induced 10 produce roots
al the s ite of a wound (see top of faci ng
page) while they are still auached 10 the
parent plant. Once rooted, the s tems, or
layers, are severed from the parent plan t
and grown on individually. Layering is a
good way of creating a small number of
the s1ock plant to 36°F (2°C) for 1wo weeks,
followed br forcing at 46-59°F (8-l 5°C),
induces new shoots with enhanced rooting
ability: lhis me1hod suils cenain deciduous
plan1s such as some az.1lcas (Rlwdocleuclron).
Cfenwtis, and Ccmtosrignia. Keeping stems
ou1of light for a time clongaics 1he cell
tissue. whiLcns the Slem, and soflens the skm
(etiolation), helping difficult plants to roo1.
No more 1han 60 percent of the top-
grow,h should be 1aken from a stock phm1
al anr one time. After wking the cuHing
maierial, allow the plan1 10 grow back.
Curi1NGS A r.0111<1incr-grown plant can
be l1cp1 w snpply currings rcpea1edly or
j11<1 once before planting 0111. This Hebe
yielded 84 semi-ril'c sicnHip cuttings
witl1our a11precial,ly alte,ing its sluipe.

INDUC ING LAYERING
S1oolrd J)lani Pcgg1•,f.
clc>h'tl
shoor
. . .. .
FRENCH LAYERING lu rhis j()l'IU of S(()()/i11g
(see facing page), new shoc,ts from the swol
arc pcggrtl along 1/te soil. Sidcshoo1s arc l,illctl
up i11 swges w" clq,11, of 6i11 ( 15cm). \Vh1·11
1hesc mot, they art separated and grown mi.
new p lan ts with relati ve certainty, sin ce
the new p lant is nourished b)' ils pa ren t
unti l rooted , but it is space-consum ing.
Most layering involves p inning th e
stern to the ground, as in shnple layering
(sec p.106) and serp entine la)'ering
(see p.107). \.Yith ,nounding (see p.290),
stooling (see box, faci ng page), and the
more complex French layering (see
above), layered sterns a re also etiolmed by
hilling up, then pruned . Th is builds u p
nutrien ts and g rowth hormones needed
for rooting a t specific sites on the s tems.
Air layering (see above) is used for
s tem s that cannot be trained 10 reach
soil level; instead, a rooting medium
is packed a round an aerial branch.
Air la)'ering works because removing
the bark of the stein traps food that
would normally go to the roots, the reby
providing nutrients for rooting al the
site of the wound on the s tem.
S TORAGE ORGANS
Some planLS have natural food-storage
organs that enable them to survive a
period of dorman cy until conditions are
on ce again favorable for g rowth. The)'
also provide energ)' for developing shoot
systems during periods of growth. The
s torage organs may last for several )'ears
or be renewed annuall)'. This natural
vegetative p rocess of regeneration can
be exploited to p roduce many new
plan LS. Many planLS wi th s torage organs
a re collectivel)' known as bulbous plants,
but only some of these are true bulbs.
Bu u1s arc compressed sterns with a
basal p late from which roots grow. Each
bulb contains a bud , wi th an e mbr)'on ic
shoot or a complete embr)'on ic flower,
which is enclosed by a series of fleshy
leaves known as scales.
In bulbs such as those o f daffod ils,
tulips, and onions, these scales are
closel)' packed, completc l)' encircling
those wi thin and not read il)' separated;
this type of bu lb is described as non-
scaly (see rig/11). The bulb is enclosed in
a paper)' covering, or tunic, that protecLS
Wo1md in !\ft·m r.)(ldrctl
wuli m05ii to pn-w·,u
l1ce11ir1~ btfo,-r. i1 ,oms
-?-- Stt'ttl 1·001:i. h110 mob1
splwgnum moss
--"
AIR LAYERING This 1ecl111ic1ut provides a wc1y
<>] lllyering an cwric1l shoo1. The slwot is wounded
with a shallow c111 or by removing a ring of barl1
to stimulait roo, i11g, mu/ a plastic sleeve full of
moss or soil mix is taped around the stem.
it from surface damage and drying out.
Others, such as fritillaries and lilies,
produce narrower, m od ified scale leaves
that are n ot pro tected by a tunic; these
a re known as scaly bu lbs (see below)
and are more susceptible to drying out.
Bulbs reproduce by produc ing offseLS
(see below) or sometimes bu lblets and
bulbils (see p.26). Detaching these
and growing them on is the easiest and
quickest means of propagating bulbs.
Plants with bulbs can be increased in
larger numbers by variou s, a lbeit slower
and sometimes challenging, methods.
A bulb ma)' be cul into seg1nen ts, b)'
ch ipp ing, or into pairs o f scales, in twin-
scal ing, each re ta ining a p iece of basal
p la te (see below and p.259). In su itable
con ditio ns, the chips or twin-scales can
TYPES OF BULB
( ~
NONSC/\LY (D/\FfODtL)
WAYS TO PROPAGATE FROM BULBS
I
Ojf,l'ls
form
11e111,rcdfy
OFFSETS
VEGETAT IVE PROPAGATION
WOUNDING A LAYERED STEM
\Voundi11g prompts o lnyered siem to 1~01.
Do this by gcnlly 1wisting rhc stem until rhc
1)(11'/i cmc/1s (see above left), scra1>i11g off a
little bal'h. or by malling a sloping cut inro
the stem to form a "wngue" (above right).
be induced to produce bulbleLS on their
basal p lates. BulbleLS can then be grown
on singly. W hen a seal)' bulb is lifted
fro,n Lhe grou nd, single scales ma)' fall
away and, if le ft in the soil, will form
a new p lant. In scal ing (see below and
p.258), the scale leaves a re d elibe ra te ly
detached and induced to [orrn bulblcts
as for ch ipp ing and twin-scaling.
For hyacinths mainly, scooping (see
p.270) and scoring (see below and p.270)
are effective. They involve wounding
the basal plate: callus tissue then forms,
encou raging bulblets to develop. In
scooping, the center or the basal plate is
removed, leaving the outer edge intact.
V-1hen scoring a bulb, two shallow cuts
a re incised a l right angles to each o ther
into the basal p la te (co111i1111ed 011 p.26).
SC/\LY (LILY)
Swlf
T\ VIN-SC,\ LING SCORING
SCllk lcc,J
Sadelr,,j T '
SCALING '
C ll lPPING
25
INT RO D UCTI ON
BULBLETS
Su-m b11/blrt
P,irc,u
bulb
,
"'I111y bulb~ sou1rtimcs fo,m nmurnUy 0,1 tl,c
parnu bulb or on rooting stems below ground
(11ere on a liJy). rlicsc mm• br ,kwcl,e<l mul
l'oucd rn den·lop iuw matu1f bulbs.
(Continued from p.25.) Some bulbous
plants produce tiny bulbs (bulblets) or
bulblike s tructures (bu lbils), which in
the wild root into the ground 10 form
new p lan ts (see above) . These read ily
fonn new plants if de tached.
CORMS are formed fro m the th icken ed
unde rg round base of a stem , usually
within some overlapping, paper)', scale-
like leaves (see below). One or mo re buds
arise on the upper surface. In most cases,
the corm is renewed every year, fom1ing
a t th e base of the current season's s1cn1,
on top o f the o ld corm. Tiny corms
(corm els) may form around the parent
and can be used for propagation.
R11120~1ES are usu ally s wollen under-
ground s te ms, eith er thick , as in bearded
irises; thin , wide-spreading, and fast-
gro,ving, as in wi ld rye (Efy11111s re1Jens);
or in a c rown , as in asparagus. Ferns
produce a variety of rhizomatous
s tructures (sec p.1 62) . As a rhizome
grows, it o ften develops segments, each
with buds that b reak into g rowth whe n
conditions are favorable. Th e segments
a re c ut a pan 10 propagate them (see
below right). Some rhizom es, such as
those of m int, look like neshy roots;
treat these as root cuu ings (see p.288).
ROOT Tu11ERS are s wo llen sections of
root that are unable to form ad ventitious
buds except at the crown (see facing
page) . Once the buds have produced
s hoots and the food storage is used up ,
the tubers die. New tubers fonn d uring
th e growing season . The plant can be
inc reased by d etac hing a section of the
crown with a b ud.
S TE~, TUllERS are m od ified s te ms with
the same func tion and life C)•de as root
tubers, but they possess more growth
buds, over muc h of their surfaces. Many
tubers may be produced by one plant,
as in the potato (Solanum tuberosum).
Tu bers of perennials s uch as Anemone
26
BULBILS
IN A FLO\VERMEAO Snwll bulb/Hu· structures
form in ll1tflownheculs of same bulhs, Stich os
rlris tree 011 io11. Tl,e l>ulbils weigh the stem down
to 1lu: soil. into which rhr bulbils rool (sec inscl).
co,·onaria increase in s ize each g rowing
season , producing leaf and flower
s h oots fro m the upper side and roots
from e ithe r side, or both. To p ropagate
s tem tubers, take basal cuttings or cut
into sections (see fac ing page).
PsEUOOllULBS a re found only in
sympodial orchids s uc h as Cymbidium.
They often resemble b ulbs but are
actually thicke ned stem s arising fro m a
rh izome. Pseudobulbs may be d ivided
in various ways b)' cutting through the
rhizome (see ,,.J
79).
0Tl·I ER STORAGE OltGANS Some
plants, for example S,v<ifraga granulata
and so1nc kalanc hocs, develop round,
bu lblike buds at the s hoot axils. These
can be propagated as for bu lblets o r
corme ls (see above and below). ln som e
aquatic p lants, for example frogbit
( Hydrocharis) and /-lotto11i<1 , these buds
are relatively la rge and a re known as
turions. When mature, the buds drop
off the parent plant and in s pring rise
to the su rface to develop into new
p lants. O ther plants produce tuberc les
(see facing page) .
CO RM AND CO RMELS
• '
.'
' )
A conn fto.s one or more buds m the ,~pcx. ffom
whid1a new co,.,u grows e<1cli yew: Us11<1Uy, die
old c<Jnn widters ttw<1y. TI11y corms (connels)
may form between tl,e old mul new conn; tliey
11wy bt 1tmovcd wui grown cm (sec insc1).
IN LEAi: AXILS 5mnt' plmus (11cft' a lily) fon11
bulbils i11 lrof ci,ils. Mmurc bulbils come aw"''
ctlsily wul aw be gmwn /Hu_· sec,ls (sec inset).
For nwrc bulbils. cw badl Wit's b(jorc flown ing.
GRAFTING
Grafting and budding involve join ing
two separate p lan Ls so tha t they func tio n
as one, c reating a s trong, healthy plant
tha t has on l)' the best characteristi cs
of its 1wo pare nts. A root S)'Ste m is
provid ed b)' one plan t (the rootstock o r
s tock) and the desi red topgrowth b)' the
other p lant (the scion). Alth ough the
rootstock greatl)' innuc nces 1he growth
of the scion, both retai n separate genetic
id en tities, and th ere is no interm ingl ing
of cell tissue between the grafted parts.
ShooLs produced above and below the
graft union wi ll be characteristic o f the
rootstock or the scion, but not both.
Grafting and b udding are labor-
inte nsive, requiri ng s k ill in preparing
th e rootstock and scion and in ca ring
for th e graft 10 en sure 1ha1 the pans
unite. Th ey are, however, useful ways
of inc rease for woody and herbaceous
planLs 1ha1 arc difficull 10 root fro m
c uuings and for cultivars,
which rarely con1e true from
seeds. They can be used to
manipu la te p lants to gro w in
RHIZOME
\,
)(nmg ~(·gm1•ra t - ,,91'
witt1 new slwot
Rhizomes 11rc sometimes swollen s1e111s that
us1wlly grvw lw, izmually hclaw or ,m d,c soil.
Mmurc rhizomes (ht;Tt' of iris) may be increased
by cuuing 1/1t'm into scc1io11s of young, l1cC1lthy
grow1l1, ctffl1 will, al lcas1 one bud.
 VEGETAT IVE PROPAGATION

ROOT TUBER
,,
STEM TUBER
PROPAGATING
FROM TUBERCLES

DORMANT STEM TUBER Stem

I fles hy. sc,.ly rhizomes. Tirey"'"
r,
l Pi~Cf of
Root tubers (Ht swollen }Cllicms
of root nrar the sum l}{~sc (lwrc of
Scnccio). The buds arc lit die crown
ofilu_· pJm1r, wJ1 id, 11wy be <Uvidccl
pr<H iclcd rhm cc,d1pieCf has<~ burl.
1
tubers (11c1£· " Cyclamen) lw\•t· 11,e
same swmge fw 1e1io11 as root tubers,
but l>ccause 1l1ey arc modified stems
rhcy produce niofc gmw1l1 buds.
p<ffC'tll tuber
B ASAL cu, rlNG One "'"Y of
propagmiug stem tubers is w wlu-
l"""' curtings (here of Begonia).
Thcst· each co11sis1 of n new shoor
with n pie.Yr of wbcr m rhc base.
C:1ladhHn
:-C(.trOn
ROOTED SECTION M,my stem
wl>ers may be cue into scvcraf
wf<lge·shaped sccti<m~ (sec inset),
eacl, with a bud. The bucl should
procluet· nt.'w roots ,md shoots.
·foberclcs are small. tuberlillC
strucwrcs duu art nc11wUy
most commonly produced hdow
gro1111d, as wirh Achimcncs
(sec p. 186), bu, C/111 also be
fon11cd from buds loC111ed in 1he
let1f axils or i11 i11floresce11ces
1ow11rd the end of tire gmwl11g
sec~s011. Tliey cc,n be detached
mid grown 0 11 in the same "'"Y
as bull>ils (sec facing page).

a certain way or to adapt to specific
conditions. Grafted plants often mature
faster than those raised fro m cuttings.
Rootstocks can confer disease- or pest-
resistance or control the rate o[ scion
growth; some produce dwarf o r very
vigorous fruit trees.
Plants must be closely related i[
a strong union is lo form and remain
strong throughout the life of the plant;
those of the same species are normally
compatible. Scion wood must be well-
ripened and not pith)'· As with cuttings,
grafts should be prepared speedily so
that the cul surfaces do not dry out. Use
or strict hygiene and sharp knives are
critical in preventing fungi and bacteria
from contaminating the cul surfaces.
For the tissues to knit successfu lly,
the cambium layers (sec rig1it) of scion
and rootstock must be brought into firm
contact. The cambium - a continuous,
narrow band of thin-walled, regenerative
cells just below the bark or rind - grows
Lo form a bridge, or union , between the
two pans in days. This consists or water-
and food-conducting tissue, allowing
the scion Lo benefit from the sap nowing
from the stock. Tissue growth at the
graft is enhanced by warm temperatures.
If the fibers or the rooLStock and
the scion fail 10 imerlock, shoots may
develop at the union . Corky tissue
between the rootstock and scion may
appear, making the union weak and
prone 10 collapse al a later scage. Some
rootstocks sucker from below the graft
union , especially if roots are damaged .
Ugly swellings at or near the union
occu r on trees if the growth rates of the THE GRAFT UNION
scion and rootstock are very different.
Bad,
Scion
TYPES OF GRAFTING
In approach grafting, the scion grows
o n iLS own roots until the graft union is Pirh __ '
made. It is rarel)' practiced today, except
perhaps in the case of tomatoes (see C<1mbium
,,.303). Detached-scion grafting is used
instead. This involves uniting a piece Sto<k \Vhip-
of the scion, the plant to be propagated ,
Jo, chip· grnftecl
bwMing ,1ocl:
with the stock. The stock should be
more advanced in growth than is the EXPOSED CAMBI UM CALLUSED UNION
scion, ensuring that the union calluses Success in grcrfting depends m1 mt1tchi11g the
well before the scion breaks into growth. cm11bi1m1s of bmh romstocll (sec above. lcrt)
In apical grafting, the top or the stock and scion. \ Vhc11 irt co11wcr, rhesc form <l w1io11
is removed and replaced by a scion, end bctwtcn swdl mut scion mul the wound scnls
to end . Popular apical grafts are spliced itself with a curlly layer or CC1ll11s (above right).
side, whip, whip-and-tongue, and apical-
wedge. In side grafting, such as a spliced BASIC TYPES OF GRAFT
side-veneer graft (see p.73), the scion is
inserted without heading back the stock.
(See also pp.56-63 and pp. I 08-109.)
Budding is also a side graft, using a
single bud (see riglu ), often used for Sifre,
of lx,rl1
roses (see p.l 14), fruit trees, and some \Vl1ip-cmcJ-
ornamen tal trees and shrubs , when lOt1guc graf, _ Bud
scion material is li,niled. There arc
two types: chip-budding (see p.60)
and T-budding (see p.62).
lt is possible to graft three plants in Roo1srod:
line (double-working) to ensure root
anchorage together with controlled
vigor o r to use Lhe interstem (between GRAFTING OUOOI NG
the roots and the fruiting pan of the fn dcwcl1ed-scion gmf1i11g, a prepwwl sdon
tree) as a link between an incompatible (shoal) is joined 10 tire ro01s1ocl1. wlricl, may
rootstock and scion. Novelties such as or may not be cur bad:. In budding, the scion
weeping scandards or multiple trees (see WJlCs 1he form of a single bud; the mmswch is
p.57) can be created by top-working. cut bacll when the bud begins to shoot

27
INTRODUCTION

TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT

As well as general garden ing tools,
rt such as spades, forks ror lifting
plants, and rakes for preparing seedbeds,
there are certain items that arc essential
or userul in preparation or propagation
material. For details on larger items,
such as green house equ ipmen t, cloches,
and shading, that arc used once plant
material has been prepared, see The
Propagation Envi ronment (pf>..38-45).
A small, but essential, item is the
label: always label propagated material
to avoid conrusion later. Note the name
and include the date so you can judge
when 10 expect growth . Many kinds,
including plastic and copper (see below),
arc available. 1r storing seed packets in a
refrigerator, use ballpoint pen on freezer-
bag labels - it does not run .
E QUIPMENT FOR SEEDS ANO CUTTINGS
Several items or equipmen t make sowing
seeds or 1aking cuuings easier, such as
dedicated seed sowers for large numbers SEED
or seeds (see rig/u) and seed trays, pots, SO\.VERS
and other containers (see p..30). Also
ver)' userul are:
StEVES When sorting and cleaning
home-gathered seeds, choose a clean
sieve (see below) or a mesh size
appropriate Lo the size or the seeds.
When preparing soils or soil mixes, a
metal or plastic soi l sieve with ¼-'/2in 1-lANOwHELO SO\VER This seed sower has
(3-12111111) mesh is suitable to remove tuljusrable settings for diffcrenl ·si::rd sn·ds:
coarse material or lumps. Use one \ \ it releases rhcm one by one so they ctrn he
with a finer mesh to sift a covering Sp<IC('·S()WII and will JIOI Heed thinning.
or soil mix over seeds.
DIBBLES ANO WIDGER$ These tools (see WH EELED S0\ l'ER
botrom) are used for making holes in Use 1l1is st·ed sower
soil or soil mix for seeds o r cuuings w distribute srctls
and for lifting new plants after rooti ng evenly along d, ilh.
or germination. Pencils, chopsticks, Ir lws- a Imig handle·,
and old spoons also work well. t•1wbli11g the gmrln1rr
GARDEN LINE If sowing seeds in rows to worl: witho111
outdoors, use th is (see bouom, right) bendi11K tmd nwJdng
as a guide 10 draw out the drills. rlu-' urslt kss rifing.

SEED SIEVES PLANT LABELS

Lowe, .sieve Kirchen sieves (far I
lcfl) can be used w
sieve sce,ls lnu must
1101 then be used for
culimu)• purposes.
Specialized ser<l sieves
(ler1) nt'e use(/ i11
swcl,s. The chaff
colkcts i11 the l()IJ
<0<1rsc sieve mul 1hr
seeds fill/ tl,mugh w
PLASTIC COPPER SCllJITCII
1l1c middle or lawn
sit·ve, depending on 1>l<1s1ic l<1bds may be wriuen on in pencil ~o w·c
1lieir size. Dusrlilu· H·usablc but jlllk and become bri11lc over time.
chtiff sifts rlornuglo the Copper labels arc ,,cmume111 but ca111101 be
.)l f\,f bowl lowe,;Ji11t· si('\'C i1110 n:used mul ,uc cx1.1c11sivc. 8ladl scmrd1 labels
FLOUR SIEVE TEA STRAINER SEED-SIEVING SET rl,e mewl howl. wt pc1mm1c1H bur llll' plt1s1ic and less dumbk.

DIBBLES AND W!DGERS GARDEN LINE

A dibble is tl pc11£il.shnpcd rool, wirh or without a htmcllc. usetl to nwllc JJltmti11g
lwles. Use a lmgc dibble for sowing forge srctls such tis bcmis direct or for tm11splm11i11g
seedlings. cspccilllly those (such llS lcclis) 1lrm need tl wid«• pfrmti11g hole. A small dibble
is iclc,,I for sowing seeds or i11serti11g cuttings in containers. T,·oy dibbles arc fine fm
accurate space-sowing or fo r nwrlli11g soil mix before clibbli11g. \Vidgcl"S "llow lifli11g
of seedlings tmd c1wi11gs with ll minimum of disturbtmcc w their m:w mots.

\Vhc11 nurrhing 0111 drills, use

this tool as o guide. P/1111ge ont
Slllllc into tl1e soil tmd unfurl
1he fine w die required kngth.
LARGE M EASURING STEEL PLAST IC SM,I LL TRAY OeptJi mal'l:ings <ffc scored into
DIBBLE DIBBLE \VI DGEll W IDG ER DIBBLE DIBBLE die stnlu:s w llecp the lint· level.

28
 TOOLS ANO EQUIPMENT

KNIV ES AND CUTTERS GRAFTING EQUIPMENT

Fo,- p,.opagaiio11 . if is im1x1rum1 Crafting ttr/>e, raffi/1. or
' to use lmives appmprime to the n ,bbcr 1wtcl1cs arc usccl
I pla,11 ,nmfrial c111d trc.f111i,,ur. to lwld togr1hcr a graft

!' Use a gm,kn lmift· for sumclcml

cutting$ but " scalpd fo r culling
soft lii)U(' !>tfCh c,s C(ICli.
while ii is ··tal:ing. "
Scalmus ~uch ti.\ coJd or
hot J!.rnftmg w,1,x protcc,,
,..x1,oscd wood CIIOwul drt
g,aft from discas,· or
drying out .

• GRAFTING TAPE
•
--
GARDE,' / GRAFTING BUDDING RAfflA 6UDOING
KNIFE KN IFE KNIFE SCALPEi SN IPPERS PATCIIES G RA Fri NG \.VAX

Pu\NTING BOARD A narrow board
10ft (3m ) lo ng and marked ever)' lin
(2.5cm ) al lows you 10 stand on so il
wi thout compacting it and provides
a straight edge 10 draw out dri lls and
a rule to meas ure spacings.
HOE Use a hoc 10 make seed drills (see
p.218) and 10 weed between plants.
KNIVES AND ClllTERS A garden knife with
a plas tic o r wooden handle is u seful for
taking and preparing cuuings (sec
above). Mos1 have a ca rbon s teel b lade
that is fixed o r fo lds into the handle.
Use snippers (see above) for very fine,
soft s te ms. Pruners are good for 1aking
woody cuuings; the scissor l)' pe makes
POTTING BOX
a cleaner cut 1han anvil pruners Use a
scalpel (see above) or fine-bladed craft
knife for very s mall cuuings and for
c ulling very soft tissue, s uc h as cac1i.
All blades used for propagatio n s hould
be kept clean and very s harp.
D ~SICCANT Silica gel c rystals are useful
for keeping stored seeds d ry and may be
reused . Place a layer of gel a t 1he boHom
o f a containe r, and the seeds in labeled
paper pac ke1s on top. Powdered milk
can a lso be effective but is 1101 reusable.
PAINTllRUSII A s mall paintbrush with
fine, sof1 bristles is useful for hand-
pollinating nowers in ord er to improve
seed set or in hybrid izing.
A JWlling box. mtuk
from plastic_ o, mt:url,
prnvicks a !<elf
ccmwined arco for
wshs ,lim i11\'ofrc
U!<h1g soil mb:, such
as l m11spl<mring
srcclli11gs, sowing
!<t·eds. mul ,,m,i11g
c11tri11gs. Thr po1ti11g
box is c<1sily clcw,ctl
mul mo,•ed ro tr
Ctm\'CUien l SJ'Ol.
GRAFTING EQUIPMENT
KNIVES A grafting knife (see above left)
has a s trong, s1raigh1 blade and is ideal
for making accu ra1e c u ts in woody
stems. A budding knife (see above left)
h as a spa1ula on the reverse of the blade,
which is used for pry ing o pen the bark
around the incision when budding. For
intricate seedling grafts, safety-razor
blades arc m ore precise.
BINDING ~1ATERIA LS As well as plastic
grafting tape and raffia (see above), wide
rubber bands or latex budding tape are
used to bind a graft union until it calluses.
BllDDING PATCIIES Rubber patches
(sec above) arc used to bind bud-grafts,
especially of roses. The rubber rots away
over two months as the union calluses.
SEALANTS For sealing grafts use wax ,
which may be appl ied cold (sec above)
or hot , or wound paint.
GENERAL PROPAGATION EQUIPMENT
O ther ite ms 1ha1 a re partic ularly useful
for propagation incl ude 1he pouing box
(see left), which can be portable or built
into greenhouse staging, and watering
cans. Use a plastic or galvanized metal
watering can (see below) wi1h a fine
rose. Begi n wate ring seedlings and
cuuings 10 the side (contimted on p.30)

USING A WATERING CAN finf' br,1.-.s ,osc

Use a f ine rose turned

u,,wmrl to water
seedlings wul cuttings
(here of rosemwy).
This cremes II fine,
light spr<1y and ,1voids
disturbing the soil mix.
Bf'USS fOSCS (sec
inset) gi"c a finer
sprny than plastic.

29
INTRODUCTION

THE IMPO RTANCE O F HYGIENE

\Vhen propagaling plants. il is csscmial to maintain high standards
of hygiene LO prevent any possibility of pes ts and diseases being
transmitted through contamination. Sterilize l001s and equipment
before use. particularly blades of knives and pruners. either by
heating them (see ,iglu) or wiping them in alcohol between each cul.
It also helps 10 wear gloves (see belo1V) or wash hands regular!)\ and
keep work surfaces clean, especially when wounding plam material.
Ideally, use new containers or sterile,
preformed units such as rockwool plugs
or compressed peal pelle1s (see p.35).
Pots and other containers should
always be scrubbed and sierilizcd
(see f,u- 1igl1t) . STERILIZING TOOLS Keep knife, CLEANING CONl'AINERS Oiny
sccd11eJ, or pnmcr blades sterile conwincrs am lwtbor diseases
LATEX GLOVES ll,ese '"" closejitti11g. with by heat-treating them. Dip a blade mul minute pests. \Vear prorective
a more sensitive touch clicm garcle11i11g glO\ICS, i11 alcohol mu/ <111icl1ly pass it glo,•es ,md thoroughly scn,b each
anti sterile, so are icleal for use wl1t11 preparing thr(}ugl, a ctmclle flame. Do not pot with a stiff brush in di/we
plant mmerial such as cuuf11gs or bull, seclions. rccontaminmc the blade by touching household disi11fecttmt. Rinse cmd
The gloves also 1n-01ect against initanr sap. it o,· wiping ojj w,y soot. allow to dry before use.

(continued from p.29) of the container,
then move the spra)' over it LO avoid drips
disturbing the soil mix , A greenhouse
watering can may have a long spout to
reach the back of a bench.
Mts·r SPRAYt, RS These ma)' be hand-
held or pump-action and arc useful for
misting young plan LS that need a humid
a11nosphcre. The nozzle can be adjusted
to produce a fine spray.
PRESSER OR TAMPER Square or round
wooden presses (see rop of facing page)
are easy to make and are useful for
firming soil mix in polS. A firming board
slight!)' smaller than a seed tray is also
handy. You could also use an empty
container of the same shape and size.
SHARPENING STONE Use this to keep
blades of knives and pruners (see p.29)
sharp. Always do this yourself, because
everyone holds the knife at a different
angle. A sharp b lade will not crush the
cells of the plant tissue along the cut,
so there is less opportuni ty for disease
lo enter propagating material , improv ing
the chances of success.
FuNGtCIDt, Before taking cuttings, appl)'
a commercial fungicide to the parent
plant to avoid conta1nina1ion. Also dip
prepared cuttings in a dilute fungicidal
solution and dust cut surfaces, such as
on fleshy roots or bulbs and tubers.
HORMONE ROOTING COMPOUND
This preparation contains syn thetic
hormones s imilar to those that occur
naturally in planlS and is used to
encourage root growth, for example in
cuuings and la)'ered stems. It ma)' also
contain a fungicide to protect against
rot. The compound is available in
powder, gel, or liquid form . Gel adheres
to a stem or wound better than powder
and is less likely to coat the stem too
thickly or to be wiped off as cunings are
inserted. These are generally available in
30
three strengths: no.l, the weakest,
is for softwood; no.2 , of moderate
strength, is for semi-ripe wood; and
no.3, the strongest, is for hardwood -
but often they are multipurpose.
\,Vhcn using hormone rooting
compound, tip a small a1nount onto a
lid or container and discard any unused
compound when you arc finished, so
that the res1 of the compound does not
become contaminated. With powder,
knock off any excess; too thick a la)'er
ma)' inhibit rooti ng. The compo und
lasts about a year in a refrigerator.
CONTAINERS
A wide range of con ta iners, including
the trad itional pot and seed tra)', arc
now available (see below) . Plastic pots
POTS FOR PROPAGAT ION
Sct'd mad Stmaclm,l pt>h in
bulb l'WIS
do)' c)t
( . , ,
• •
< •
• fkxibk
pl,1.~1il pots
8io,Jq.:rculahk p(>ls
,
, •
• •
are more hygienic , lighter, and cheaper
for propagation purposes than clay, or
terracolla, pots. Plastic pots retain more
moisture, but c lay pots provide beuer
aeration and drainage. Square pots take
up less space and make more efficient
use of bo11om heat than round ones.
STANl)ARI) ANI) IIALI' POTS Standard pots
are as deep as they are broad. Half pots
are one-half to two-thirds the depth of
a standard pol. The pots are useful for
smal l quan tities of seeds or cuttings
and for growing on young plants.
F LEXIULI, PLASTIC POTS AND SOFT PLASTIC
POTS These are cheaper than rigid
polS but are used onl)' once and then
discarded. The)' are good for ra ising
summer bedding plants or vegetables
and for g rowing on )'Oung plants.
Dcc1> ,,ms
( Imig wms)
pfaslil
•
• •
I·n.,,c ,,.,, •
•
•
Rdot·
lruincrs
•
N,df pot<
• •
•
 TOOLS ANO EQUIPMENT

PRESSER TRAYS AND INSERTS

D, 1p ,,.t1) h 11h St·t·,I 11,df ~ct:cl Rigul A~ well ,is :,twulard set-cl
rnpilla, y """ 1 "d}
I sr,;,, trays, ma11v s_ys1rn1s are
,11,ailal>lr for seeds and
c1111ings. S111p m,d cell
1rays affow scc,llings
,111ll rooted cuu 111.(!S to be
potted wi1l1our 11111(11 mot
diswrlm11cc-. those nlluk
offlexible plas1ic f,1 inw
a stcmdwd ~eed lra) mul
do nor la.st a-. long c1s
1hr rigid fonns. Drip.
Prrsstrc. an.· ''f'Y useful for firming soil mix or watering. 1mys allo,\
in conuriun ~. A ~mall womlen presstT wid1 a co11wi11crs w be wmerrd
lumdlt· is tasily nuulc: use n pot as a trmplatc. from bdm,~
Firm the !>OH 111ix by prcs~ing gently wul n •c11ly.

PANS These arc one-1hird the dep1h or a CELL TRAYS

standard pot (see below) so are good for Ctll trays lw,·i· beru used commercially for ,1 1
/i1N-CCI.L fRAY
shallow-rooling material that might rot number of , cars <md arc now widely cw<1ilablc IO
1
Tl1is i, d1t.· smoflt.')l
in 100 great a depth or soil mix. Used die anuucur. The cells allow seedlings or cuuings • prc<tlital ,i,r of cell.
for seeds, smal l cu11ings, and bulbs. w develop stuuly ro<)I syslfms before being ported ~~ Us(· d1is sizt• to groh' up w
DEEP l'OTS (I.ONG TOMS) These arc used 11p and 10 be ha11dkcl without tlisrn,·bing the ,oob 576 smaff,fas1-gc,mi11mi11g
for direct sowing or transplanting deep- or Jiarmin~ rl1c stems. FiU army seedlings.
rooied plants, such as some trees and with soiflt•ss seed mix and sow
legumes, 10 avoid restricting the roots. seccls singly into die cells.
They are also good for plants with long <H modulo. \Vhrn 100b slio"' Jf.l N-Cl!LL TRAY
taproots, such as C)'Cads, and other cH tl1c ba~r, <1llow 1hrm to ,hy T11is rray allows up to
plants 1hat migh t suffer a check in 0111 sliglul)~111.-11 /JUSh mu of 273 seedlings w devtlo1,
growth if 1he roots are disturbed. the cells will, a 1'ft1Cil. ~r,·t·ral pc,irs of
ROOT-TRAINt,RS Each p lastic pack of km e~.
individual cells is hinged lo allow rool
balls to be removed withou1 disturbance.
The sides arc grooved venically 10 train
roo1 grow1h. The)' are mainl)' used for
deep-rooted irecs and shrubs. l ¼IN·CELL TRAY
TUBE POTS Also known as sweet pea U11 w 135 s..:alt111gs nwy
tubes, these are made of plas1ic or be gmwn 111 this ,my.
cardboard and can be planted out Pot ,,Jcmrlets into
without disturbing the plant roots. 21/.in ((,en,) ,,ms.
B10DEGRADAHI.E POT~ These come singly
o r in strips and are usually made from
compressed peat and other fibers. The
roots grow through the pois in10 the
soil when planted out. They are good for I ½tN·CGLI TRAY
vegetables and summer bedding plants. The larger tmys lwlrl up
Po, SAi CERS Saucers may be used for to 70 seedlings m· snwll
vegernble seeds, such as sprou ts. hrrbacrous currings.
SEED TRAVS Standard or hair seed
tra)'S (see above, right) may be used for
sowing seeds, 1ransplan1ing seedlings,
and rooting small cuttings.
SEED TRAV INSERTS These all ow s trips
or plugs or soil mix to be held in a seed
tray (see above, right) 10 save space and
avoid a siage of 1ransplanting. Rigid
inserts last longer than flexible ones.
DRIP TRAVS Drip trays (see above
right) lined with capillary
matting make watering
easier. The mauing holds a
reservoir or moisture 1ha1 is
taken up in10 the soil mix as needed. Trays of rocl1wool
CELL TRAVS Cell, or module, trays 11lugs c,111 be used, but
in a range or sizes (see right) are now feed «ce<llings or currings
available for raising "plug" plants 1ha1 with a ,tilutc liquid
are cas)' to transplant. Care is needed in Jenili-;.tr once d1ey
watering, because they dry out quickly. tlevelc,p true lec1ves.

31
INTRODUCTION

SOILS AN D GROWIN G MEDIA

t\ n appropriate growing medium is
f l crucial 10 success in propagation.
Soil beds outdoors are often used for
growing on divisions and woody cuuings
and di rect sowing of seeds, especially
of vegetables and annuals, but most
methods involve soil mixes and inen
media under cover 10 provide ideal
conditions free from d iseases and pests .
Any propagation mediu,n must be
mois ture-retentive but also porous 10
keep it aerated . IL m ust be sufficiently
free-draining so 1ha1 the 1nedium does
not become waterlogged but not so
mu ch that the 1nediu111 dries out.
SOILS
A healthy soil is vital fo r s uccessful
p lant p ropagation. Soils consist of tiny
particles of various weathered rocks
and organic mauer. Very fine particles
impede drainage, so the soi l becomes
waterlogged and low in oxygen; large
particles allow free drainage and air to
reach roots but dry out quick!)'. The best
soil has a mix of particle sizes. Fertile
soil also includes trace minerals - such
as bo ron, copper, iron, 111angancsc, and
zinc - needed for healthy growth. Loam
BASIC SOIL TYPES AND HOW TO PREPARE T HEM
SOIL TYPE SOIL CIIARACTERISTICS
S ING LE-DIGGING
Dig" 1rrnch l2in (JOcm) wrdc m,d
,1 spadd bl<ulc deep. Dig ,, srcmul
trench, placing ,tu: soil i1110 die
firs1. Conri1111c,filling 11,c lasl
tn•11d1 with the soiJ from tl1e·Ji rst.
soils have an ideal particle mix , wi th
8-25 percent cla)', g iving good drainage
and waier reten tion an d h igh fenility.
Soil is classified by iLS cla)', si h , and sand
content (sec clrar·t below); to iden tify a
soil, rub a small amount of mo ist soil
between your fingers. Soil preparation
Lo ach ieve the idea l 1ex1ure, fenility, and
drainage for propagation is worthwhile.
PREPARING TII E SOIL
STALE SEEDBED TECHNIQUE
This tcd111ic1uc
1 l1t·/11s cksr my
(IS ma11y weeds <JS
JJOSS1blc before sowing
sccds in a secdJucl.
Dix tire soil ligl11ly
to disturb any weed
Srftfs in rhc soil (sec
right of bed).
The W('etl S('eds
2 wiJl gc,mimue
m, rhc rultivarcci
g1·01111d afier a few
weeks (sec righ I of
bed). Clr11r 1hc111 by
liglu Jwd11g or wi1J1
a wcrdflillc,: wi1lwut
dislli rbing 1hr ~oil.
The acid it y of the soil shou ld also be
considered. This is determined by its
pH level , on a scale of l-14. To test
your soil, use a commercial kit. A pH
below 7 indicates acidic soil; if the soil
has a pH over 7, it is a lkaline. Regardless
of the mature p lan l's preferred pH
requirement , a low pH is best for
cuuings, because any higher than 6.5
induces "hard" callus tissue LO form and
hinder root d evelopment (sec also p.23).
Maintain ing a pH of 4.5-5 also helps
prevent damping off (see p.46) . Sulfur
will increase acidil)' of alkaline soils.

SANDY Dry, Hgh<, grirty, and ,,ery
fret-draining. A lrmrdful will not
"l"dr· or srich 1ogetlrtr. Easy IO wor/1;
warms up c1uichly in spring but not
vc1y falile. Usually acidic (low 11H) .
AlKA1, 1Nr Pale. sJwUow, stony, free·
draining, wul low ferriliry. "Clwlhy, •
wirfr pH of 7 or higl,c,: M11y be
clefrcicnr in minerals such as bomn,
manganese. a,ul 11J10s1,J1oms.
PEAn' Dcirll, crumbly, and rich i11
o,xcmic numc,: Rernins moisture wcU
bur C£111 be wo wet. Acidic (pH Jxlow
7). May lac/1 phosphorus mu/ co11tain
too much nu:mgcmcse or aluminum.
$1c,Y Sil/1y or soapy to the wudr,
with fine par'ticles cmd a low tunounr
of clay. Rc11sc,"'bly fcnile anti
moisrnre. rete11th•c but compacts
easily, cspeci11lly wlle11 dry.
CLAY \Vet, sticky. lieavy, a11d s/ow-
draini11g. Rolls into 11111lleablc ball if
pressed and goes shi11y if s111001/Jcd.
Usually very fertile. Slow to warm up
in spling; b,rl:es Jwrd in liot weather.
Improve loose s1ruct11re with small
amounts of clay. \\1<11cr ancl feed
often. Add o,i;cmic matter ID holcl
moisfufe. Wmer.rcre1uive c:ryswls
are useful cm a small scale.
"N1111g,y" soil rhar hrealls down
o,gcmic nuu,rr <1uicllly; dress seed
cmd nursery beds often wirh o,gn11ic
111<111cr. preferably C1cidic, such as
bnr'k or well·rortetl manure.
Malies excellenr soil if limed,
drt1i11ed, t111d Jrr,iliz_ttl. Add lime
or mushromn compost to achieve
bcsl pH of 5.8. Add grir 10 i111pmve
tlrninagc for seed mul nursery beds.
.Encourage crumbly srnicrure by ·
adding some clay or ,ulcling plenty
of bu,,,y orgcmic 111atrer: ldec,I soil
for propag<11io11 use, especi<1lly for
e,irly sowings.
Adel lime 10 c11co11rcige fine panic/es
to chrmi, rogctha; lay clrninage
duumds of coc1rsc sand or grnvel.
Aclcl plenty of b11ll1y o,i;anic matter
and grit to open up soil tcxrurc.
O UTDOOR BEDS
Special outdoor beds offer the best way
10 provide ideal conditions for seeds and
for rooting new p lants. Digging helps
aerate the soil and break up compacted
areas, as well as allowing organic mauer
and fertilizers 10 be added if n ecessary.
For propagation , the important nutrients
a re potassium (for roo1 growth) and
nitrogen (for leaf and s tem growth) ;
phosphorus (for flowers and fruits)
benefi ts establis hed plants. Digging wet
soil will cause compaction. Forking is
less hannful to soil structure; it breaks
up soil along existing natural lines.
Seeds requ ire a fine "tihh" - level,
1nois1ure-re1entive surface soil that
consisLS of small, even particles. This
ensures good con1ac1 between seeds and
soil so 1ha1 moisture can be absorbed for
germ ination. Choose a sheltered site: if
needed, erect a windbreak or shadi ng.
About one month before sowi ng,
single-d ig the bed as s hown (see above,
left) . Pile the soil from the first trench 10
one side and replace it in the last trench.
Allow the bed LO weather and break up
naturallr Just before sowing, b reak up
any remaining lumps with a rake, then
level the ground by treading gently.

32
 SOILS AND GROWING MED IA

nutrients, they may or may 1101 conlain

STE RILIZI NG GARDEN SOIL a slow-release [ertilizer. If not, the
1r you are planning 10 use Cltttings will need feeding once rooted;
garden soil in homemade: a lternative!)', for cuuings that will be in
soil mixes. il must first be V 1hc pot for some time, such as those of
sterilized lO kill off harmful woody plants, add a li ul e fert ilizer to the
organisms that could bouom of the pot so that the new roots
adversely affecl CUllings or are not scorched.
seedlings during propaga1ion. BASIC SOIL ~llX This is not ofteri used at
To do this, the soil musl be the propagation stage, except in the case
sieved to remove s1ones of woody plants or root cunings. Such
and lumps. 1he11 healed 10 mixes may be soilless or soil-based; both
a minimum temperature Lypcs are free-draining. The soil-based
either in a conventional l N TII E OVEN Sieve nwisi IN A MlCRO\VAVE OVEN pouing mixes provide a s tead)' supply
oven or in a microwave: soil through a ¼i11 (5mm) Sie\'f. moi.sJ soil and 11lace in of nutrients to the propagated material.
(sec rig!u). 11 is also possible sie\le. Place c, l<,ycr up w a ro<,sring bag. Seal ir to stop Soilless t)' pes arc m oisture-retentive and
to ob1ain special soil- Jin (8cm) deep in a balling soil from co,uamimHiug rhe wel l-aerated but quick!)' lose nutrients
s1erilizing units, but these tm)~ Bolte Jo,· JO minutes ar O\'CII. Pierce ihe bag; hem "n so arc suitable only [or s hort-term use,
are expensive. 4oo•r- (200°c). full power for ten minutes. such as growing on seedlings and
sowing large seeds.
SPECIALIZED SOil MIXES Commercial
Rake 1he surface wiih progressively because they are used in high -humidit)' mixes fonnulated for the special growing
finer rakes in differenL direciions 10 enviromnents. A standard rooting needs or particular planL groups arc also
obiain a fine tihh. Stale seedbeds (see med ium typically contains equal parts available. These include orchid mix,
facing page) avoid problems wi th weeds. or sand and peat (or pear substitute) . It o[tcn based on porous bark for high
S01neti1nes renilizers are also needed may also be based on bark or perlite or aeration and open drainage; a lpine and
to improve the soil's [ertility. Add lea[ a high proportion of coarse sand (river cactus soil mixes, which are griuy and
mold for seeds or cuuings of woody sand). Since these 1nixes are low in very free-draining (co11Li11ued 011 p.34)
p lanLs: it contains mycorrhizae, till)'
fungi that benefit root and s hoot growLh. COMMON INGREDIENTS FO R SOIL MIXES
Before sowing in cold climates, the soil
ma)' be warmed b)' covering it with
plastic sheeting. Hardier plants need
a mini,num soi l te1nperature or 50°F
( 10°C); tender p lants prefer a minimum
of 59°F ( t5°C).
Nursery beds are prepared in much
the same way as seedbeds but do not
need such a fine surface tilth. SOIL liig/1-,111C1liti, s!c,:ilize// G RIT Used i11 "wry fine PE;T Srutk. lo11g-l11sri11g:
Raised or deep beds avoid the need garrle11 soil with good nur, icnr (right) or fine (left) to c11nrsc wrll•cwrntecl, cmd moisrurr-
10 walk on and con1pact the soil and are 5Ut'l'IY, ,lrai11age. (lemtion, wut grcrck.!i. Subsw,utaUy impr0\1cs retrntivt·, bw l<>h' in muricllls.
[ree-draining, providing a useful option moisture rcrc,uio11. Fm sub. drainage, es11ccially Jo,. alpine lfmcl ro ,rwr1 onn· d,,,. For
for gardens wi th heary soi ls. They are ~,c,11tit1I, soif•hasrd mixes. ancl ccrcrus mixes. ligJuweight, short·tcm1 mixrs.
especially effective for vegetables (see
p.283) or long-term propagation .

SOIL MIXES
When propagating plants under cover,
soil mix is usuall)' preferred to soil,
because it is relatively free from pests
and diseases and is lighL and well- PERLI TE Ex/JCmdecl l'OlcC111ic FINE BARK Finf grcrclcs VERM ICULITE Expcmclccl crncl
aerated. like the best soil (see facing rodt granules. Su·,ile, inen, of chipp«l l"'r/1 used cts ,1ir-blow11 micc1. Acts similarly
page), it should have a mix of particle wuf light: rtwins moisu1rc hut JU'<H substiuui• c,rfc,r vc,y w perlitc but holcls more wcuer
sizes and be acidic. There is a wide drains freely. 1\!kdiwnkoarsc f,rr·clraiuing. c1<iclic mixrs. and less air. Fine grade aids
range of com,ncrcial soil mixes available gmclcs t1id c,cmlion/drar11agr. cspeciatly for c,rchicls o,· l'"lm.!>. drainage and aercuio11.
[or use in propagaLion.
SEED SOIL MIX Specifically made seed
soil mix is 1noisture-retentive, fine-
textured , and low in nutrients (because
mineral salts can harm seedlings). Seed
soil ,nix frequent!)' contains sterilized
soil, peal or peat substitute, and sand,
or it 1nay be soilless (without garden
soil). The texture allows good contact Co1R fiber from coco1111t SAND Fine swul (lefl) l1dps LEAF MOLD \Veil-rotted.
between f'ine seeds and the moist soil huslls, u~cd as pcm subsriour. drainage cmd c1crmion in see.cl si,·vcd lcC1ves. MC1y harbor
,nix, aiding ger111ination. Dries our less qurddy them soil mixes; coorse sand (riglu) l'fSlS or disease. Cot1rse
R<xlTING MEDIUM Mixes intended for pccu but needs more feeding. gh•cs more open tcxw,e to rcxturr best in n,oring
rooting c uuings need 10 be free-draining Coocl lxtsr for soillcss mixes. rooting media. media or potting mixes.

33
INTRO DU CTI ON

MAKING SOI L MIX

Some useful soil•mix recipes for use in
general propagation are listed bdow.
Recommendations for soil mixes arc
generally expressed in pans, indicating
the relative 1>roponions by volume of each
ingredient. ParLS may also be expressed as a
form ula, for example 3: 1: I. Herc (see l'ight).
a seed soil mix is made up from peat (or
peat substitute), fine bark, and pcrlite, l PART FINE l PART
with a pinch of slowwrelease fertilizer. 3 PARTS PEAT + BARK + PERLITE

SOIL~BASED SEED MIX
2 pans soil
I part peat (or peat substitute)
I pan sand
To each 8 gallons (36 liters),
add I ½oz ( 42g) supcrphosfate
and ¼oz ( 21g) ground limestone
For an ericaccous (acidic)
mix. use an acidic soil and omit
the limestone
Sot1.1.rcSs SEEP MtX
3 pans peat (or peat substitute)
l pan fine bark
l pan pcrlitc
To each 8 gallons (36 liters).
add 11/.oz (36g) of slow-release
fertilizer and l¼oz (36g) of
dolomiLic limestone
SOil.LESS ROOTING MEDIA SOIL-BASED POTTING MIX S011 l.ESS rQ'n'I NG 1\ llX
I part peat (or peat subst itute) 7 parts soil 3 pans peat (or peat substitute)
I pan sand (or pcrlile or 3 parts peat (or peat substimte) I pan sand (or perlite)
vermiculite) 2 pans sand To each 8 gallons (36 liters) add:
OR To each 8 gallons (36 li ters), acid ½oz (1 4g) ammonium nitrate
I pan peat 4oz ( I I 3g) or general-purpose 1oz ( 28g) potassium nitrate
I pan bark (¼-½in/3-15mm fertilizer and ¼oz (2 1g) ground 2oz (56g) superphosfaie
particle size) limestone 3oz (85g) ground limestone
To each 8 gallons (36 litcrs), For richer mixes. double or 3oz (85g) dolomitic limestone
add I ¼oz (36g) of slow-release triple l he quantities or ½oz (14g) prepared horticultural
fertilizer fcnilizcr and limestone trace elements
OR For an ericaceous (acidic) For an cricaceous (acidic)
I pan peat 1nix, use an acidic soil and omit mix, omit the limestone
I pan bark (¼- ½in/3-15mm Lhe limestone
particle size) A suitable fo rmula fo r 111 all f11r111ulas. /><trts are by
I part perlite fertilizer to be mixed at home is: volume unless othcl'wisc statecl
To each 8 gallons (36 liters), 2 pans bonemeal
add I ¼oz (36g) of slow-release 2 parts superphosfatc
fertilizer I pan potassium sulfate
(parts by weight)

(continued from p.3.3) but low in nutrienis;
o r aquatic soil mix, based on soil for
anchorage but low in nutrients 10 avoid
excessive algal g rowth.
M AKING YOUR OWN SOIL MIXES
You ca n make your own soi l mixes to
o btain the ideal medium for individual
plants. Propagation mixes can be made
up from various ingredients (see p.33).
Most mixes are based o n soil , peat, or
peat subs1i1u1es, combined with ot her
ingredicnis 1ha1 have different
properties. Inert substances such as
perlite, vermiculite, and rockwool fiber
(see facing page) are useful, since each
has been processed in ex tremely high
temperatures and is therefore sterile.
Perlite also does 1101 co,npact easily, so
it retains ai r but not water.
Peat is highly acidic and therefore is
suitably sterile. Peat substitutes, such as
coi r (cocon ut fiber), pine bark, animal
waste products, or straw, have been
c01npos1ed and heat-treated. Washed
and gr-aded horticultural sands and grilS
are also safe. Leaf mold is not sterile
so is best for potting ,nixes. Organic
materials such as g round crab shells
promote microorganisms that combat
damping off (see p.46) so may be added
as a biological con trol. For long-tenn
propagation, add slow-release fertilizers.
When mixing composis, strict
hygiene should be observed 10 avoid
con tamination with bacteria and minute form (capping), which hinders seedl ing
pests. Tools, work surfaces, and soil-mix growth. Sieve mix through your fingers
bins should always be kept clean and o r a coa rse sieve.
rendered sterile (see p.30) before each
new batch of soil mix is made. If the mix COMPRESSED PEAT BLOCKS
is not used ilnmediatel)', it should be These s mall , biodegradable blocks of
stored in scaled plastic bags to avo id the peat, enclosed by a fine mesh, contain
risk of cross-contaminatio n. a special fertilizer. Once soaked in water,
thC)' swell to form ind ividual planting
M AINTAINING SOIL -MIX QUALITY
Ideall y, 25-30 percent of the growi ng FIRMING SOIL MIX
medium s hould consist of air. Excessive
compaction of soil mix causes poor air
penetration, waierlogging at the base
of the container, and very low levels . .·,· .
of oxygen. This resullS in the rotting of ' 6 ~-4--t+.- lf- Air looks
..
water-soaked bases of cuui ngs or death
of root hairs and root tips of seed lings.
' .,
.•'. . ,• .
·l-::*-r-:-.c//-- Omltcn a11Jillc,ry
When using mixes, care must be taken .. atliQn
lo firm appropriately (see riglt1) . INCORRECT
It is also difficult 10 keep mixes
aerated because of natural compaction
- lfarld1y
through watering and decomposition ~rc,ltings
of o rga nic matter. This can be prevented
by usi ng 3in (8cm) or more deep, well- ., . ..
drained containers (see pp.30-31) and ; .... -,.,1 ,__ Con1it1uous
placing them on a drained base, such ._., rnpill,uy <tction
as sand or pea gravel, where excess water .... ·:. .•:• .:
may accu1nula1e. The extra vo lume of CORR ECT
mix acts as a buffer zone, compensating \Vmer is drawn up rhrough soil mix by ca11Wmy
for overwatering b)' keeping the bases <U:liou, but air pod:cts inte,jere wirh d,c wmer
of cuttings clear of any wet zone al the colu11111s essential for capillary rise. Lightly
bottom of the container. fin11 soilless mixes, especially at the edges of
Do not use a very fine sieve for seed a c0111aine,: Soil-based mixes am be firmed
soi l mix, si nce it may cause a crust 10 sligluly more than soilless mixtures.

34

COMPRESSED PEA1' HI.OCKS
These more titan double in size
wl,en so<1llcd i11 ,1 rray of water for
J0-20 mi11111es. A plt1stic mesh holds the pear
togetl1c1: Once wcrrcd, a seed or cutting cw1be
i11serted i11to tlie hollow m tlit !Op of each block
units (see above). Make sure that the
blocks do not dry out, and when the new
roots begin lo show through the mesh,
treat as rockwool plugs (see below).
INERT GROWING MEDIA
There are a nu,nber of sterile, inen
media now available 10 gardeners, all of
which avoid the problem of harboring
diseases or pests associated with soils
and soil mixes. Pure sands, grits, and
rockwool also discourage the pathogens
that cause damping off. Propagating
with inert media utilizes the principle
of hydrocu lture, literally "growing in
water." Seeds or cuttings have access
10 an unlimited supply of water and of
WATER-RETENTIV E GEL
,
/
BEFORE
SOAKlNG AFTER SOAKING
TI1is gel is commonly used in container soil
mixes co conscn,e wmer. T/ic dry etystnls absorb
watt,; inacnsing in volmue 10 Jann u grnnular
jelly. Some cuttings can be rooted in rht gd.
PROPAGATING WITH ROCKWOOL
LOOSE FIBERS LOOSE GREENMIX
PLUGS, OR "CUBES"
PLANTING BLOCKS
nutrients, which are added direct!)' 10
the water in the form of liquid fertil izer.
There is also unlim ited oxygen, because
the plant roots are in almost d irect
contact with the ai r. So,ne of the inert
rnedia in use today include rockwool,
clay granules, florist's foam, perlite, gel,
sand, pumice, and grit.
R OCKWOOL
This materia l is made fro111 fibers spun
from molten mineral rock. Its porous
structure provides the precise water: air
ratio needed for healthy g rowth of seeds
and cuttings. Do not confuse it with the
water-repellent rockwool that is used
for construction. Rockwool comes in
different fo rms (see below): fibers may
be used for aeration in soil mixes or in
trays for root cuttings (see p.158); loose
fibers are best for slow-rooting cuttings
to increase aeration . Insert seeds or
cuuings singly in prefonned plugs.
To use plugs, soak them first in tepid
water fo r 20-60 minutes, after which
they will have absorbed a good deal
or water. Drain thoroughly - never let
rockwool stand in water, because it will
FLORIST'S FOAM
Bi~cause of ils water-retentive Cl,Jx1city cmd
light, open texture,florisfsfoam is used ro root
cuttings of some J>la,us. such as Jud1sias. It is
available in bloclt or romul for'm .
There (lfC vcirious fonns of rocliwool.
Loose flbcrs enhance aeration in soil
mixes; greenmixS blc,ul of wa1er-
rcrentivc and resistant fibers mahcs
,1 good pem subsli111te. Plugs lln· goocl
for c111ti11gs tmd seeds: once roo1ed, they
am bt· ''110ued 011 ·· into plcmti11g blochs.
Horn1011e roo1i11g gel a11d liquid frniliicr
Ctjll improve results.
IIORMONE ROOTING GEL
LIQUID
FERTII. IZER
SOILS AND GROWING MEDIA
become waterlogged, reducing aeration.
lnsen one or two seeds (see also p.222)
o r a culling in each plug. Moni tor water
levels dail)' 10 ensure the rockwool does
not dry out. To check a plug, gent!)'
squeeze one corner. If water comes to
the surface, then no more moisture is
requ ired; otherwise, stand it in tepid
water, for a few minutes only, and allow
to drain.
As soon as roots appear, seedlings
or cuuings should be transplanted, each
with its rockwool cube, into soil mix
10 grow on, thereby avoiding d isturbing
the roots. Ahernativel)', the plugs may
be inserted in larger planting blocks and
grown on, and fed wi th liquid fertilizer,
before planting out. Plugs should be
well covered b)' the soil or soil mix so
that the)' do 1101 act as wicks and dry
ou t the roo1s. In soil or soil mix,
rockwool d isintegrates over time.
OTHER INERT MEDIA
Florist's foam (see left) may be used like
rockwool, especial ly for easi ly rooted
herbaceous cuuings. Cuuings may be
rooted in granular ,n edia as in rooting
med ium, but nutrients need to be added
in the fonn of liquid fertilizer. A mixture
of two parts medium-grade perlite to one
pan fine-grade vermiculite is less costly
than rockwool, although results are not
always as good. Sand, clay pellets, and
grits are cleaner than soil and give bcuer
aeration and drainage.
Water-retentive gel (see left) can be
used for rooting woody cuttings , such as
yew (Taxus); add a liquid fertilizer to 1he
water used to hydrate 1he crystals, insen
the cuuings, and keep in a sealed container
unti l they root. Easily rooted herbaceous
cuttings root even in water (see p.156).
HYDROCULTURE
Cuufngs or seedlings starred in inert , sterile
media, such as rhis Anthemis cutting rooted
in water.retentive gel, are us1wlly potted on
into soil mix. In hydrocuJture, the ,iew pJcmts
are potted on into othe,· inerr media, sm:h as
clay gm1111les (see inset). A liquid fertilizer
added to a water resen1oir supplies nutrients.
35
INTRODUCTION
PROPAGATION IN DIFFERENT CLIMATES
ropagation , and gardening generally,
P is easier if plants arc suited to the
climate and can be grown outdoors
all year round. Plants that are grown
outside their natura l habitats generall)'
require artiflcially enhanced conditions
under cover, such as heat and humidity,
for propagation. S01ne plants simply
refuse to thrive in unsuitable climates:
for example, high-alti tude species may
not survive al lower levels with warmer
conditions, and cool-temperate plants
arc not su i1ed to the tropics.
Cl imate has an important innucncc
on propagation methods and types of
material used . For example, in some
regions, a sh rub is best rooted from
cuttings, while in o ther climates it is
better to layer it (see bilberry, rig!u}.
In warm regions, much propagation is
carried out in open ground, but in ·cool
climates the same plants must be raised
under cover (see Bougainvillea, below}.
Indeed, in warm zones many plants,
including various cool-climate subjects,
increase so successfully that they have
become noxious weeds; in some areas
or Austral ia Ai!cmt!ms alr issima, Lcmuma
camam, Ii·adescantia jlwninensis, and some
Op1111tia (see facing page) arc weeds.
Climate also affects the timing of
propagation. ln warm regions, suitable
seasons may be advanced or extended
be)•ond those advised in this book, while
in cold climates with long winters and
late springs, the gardener may need 10
delay propagation such as outdoor seed
sowing. If the growing season is short,
propagation needs to be accelerated or
the season must be extended artificially.
In choosing the best method, season,
and plant material for propagation, it
is therefore vital to consider the local
climate and the conditions required by
,)·,,
,
~ '
- and subpolar climates, which arc very
'-··&. _c..._
~
0
- ,.._
.,,
--
,I
e include dwarf and prostrate perennials
•
.I' -
a
I ~,.;•
' -· -\ "' 0
H ,r
r
~
••
•
., ..
B OUGAINVILLEA ' $CARI.ET LAOY'
In humid €'f1Wtori<rl regions, liardwood cuuings
oJBougainvillea mot sperclily in open ground.
bur in remperme climmrs. sofr- or greenwood
hrel cuttings need mo,t Catt· and still root slowly.
36
each method as described in the A-2
entries of each chapter. h 1118)' then be
necessary to take steps 10 improve the
conditions fo r propagation (see The
Propagation Environmen t, pp.38-45}.
EXTREM E CLIMATES
Extreme climates have a narrow range
of natural vegetation that is rrcquenliy .
modified for survival. For example, arid
and semi-arid regions are ho1ne 10 man)'
clrought-toleranl plants, typically many
succulents in Mexican deserts and d ry-
area acacias in Australia. Spin)' shrubs,
annuals, and grasses predominate in arid
regions; bulbous plants in cold deserts.
All propagation can be done outdoors
during the long, warm seasons in arid
and semi-arid climates, but shade and
wind structures arc essential, as is water
conservation. Propagation is sti ll often
easier in containers rather than in the
open ground, which mar also be low in
nutrients. It is best 10 stick to plants that
are adapted; cuttings of plants such as
succulents shou ld root readi ly and seeds
,.__
- germinate free!); given adequate water.
Al the other extreme are high-altitude
cold. ln the Himala)•as, rhododendrons
are the main high-altitude plan ts, while
mountains around the globe give rise 10
a diverse range of alpine plants. These
•
and shrubs and dwarf bulbous plants.
Subpolar plan ts are also low-growing;
many are in the heath famil)•, Ericaceae,
including dwarf rhododendrons.
0 Again for propagation , it is best to
choose native plants that, for example,
need cool conditions to germinate their
seeds. The shon growing season may
need to be extended by anificial means.
Outdoor propagation is generally out of
the question in winter; under cover, il
demands anif1cial heat and, in subpolar
regions, extra lighting. New plants need
BIi.HERRY
/11 1l1e wile/, i/,r
/Jilbt:rry (Vaccinlum
mynillus) is a mHivc
of shacly, ,lamp
woodland. l11 climates
1/ia1 lwvc long. hm
~wnmcn, they C(m
111· SIICC('SSJully grow11
Jroui hmdwoo<l
cuuings bccaus('
the new shoots will
be J1,lly nuuun:d by
the mttwm1. In cooler
n:gions, howe\lc,;
brue, ,csults nwy bi'
lwd fmm ltryl'ring.
protection fro1n severe cold, such as
a well-insulated, frost-free greenhouse,
and are best planted out in spring.
C OOL AND MILD TEMPERATE ZONES
Maritime and continental climates in
cool temperate zones arc noted for their
wide range or hardy trees, conifers, and
perennials. Generally ideal for plant
growth, a vast range of plants from all
over the world can be grown. \,Vinter
cold and frost governs propagation. ln
ma ritime areas, spring often starts early,
TYPES O F C LIMAT E
ARIO Very hol, dry dcserl with cold seasons~
unpredictable and sparse rainfall.
Sci\H-ARIO Edges or true deserts (senu•
dcscn). Hol. but 1101 so extreme as arid,
with 1nore vegetation and rainfall.
M U,lll_) EQUA'fORIAl Hot , Wt(, and humid
all year round. Very high rainfall: tropical
monsoon seasons.
St:ASONAL 'IROPICAI Summers hot, wet.
and humid ; wimcrs warm and dry.
Hu~ttD Sub1ropical and warm 1cmpera1c
clima1cs wi1h rainfall all year, especially
in summer when ho1 or warm, causing
humidily. \Vintcrs mild, sometimes cold.
MEDffERRANEAN \Vann 1cmpera1e climate.
Ilot or warm summers with linle or no rain.
Cool, wet winters. Drought-prone.
MARITI ME In cool to mild clima1es, we1,
windy. with year-round rainfall and cloudy,
dull wealhcr. Mild springs and autumns.
\\linter frosts in cool climates.
COOL CONTINENTAL Cool tempcra1e areas.
\Vinters long and cold; sornctimcs se\lere
cold and snow. \Vann , short springs,
summers long, warm, or very hot, autumns
short. Rainfall all year, often in summer.
M 1c11 AI.TITUO£ Short summers; long, cold
winters with heavy snow. Pcrm:mcnt snow
at very high alLitudes. High light intensity
SUBPOI...AR ANO ICE c,,p Subpolar di mates
have short summers, long, snowy winters,
low light intensity. Ice cap has pcrrmmcnt
snow and ice.
 PROPAGATING IN DIFF ERENT CLIMATES

Con tinental climates often have
long, cold winters that delay outdoor
propagation and establishment of new
plants before the following winter.
Artificial heat is vital for propagation
to extend the season and over.vinter
new plants. Summers may be 100 hot
for seeds of plants to germinate, when
shading for )'Oung plants is the priori!)'·
With constant warmth , propagation may
depend more o n rainfall , but take local
conditions into account . Shelter and
shade are vital. Plants are often started
in containers. In seasonal tropical areas,
winter may be better for propagation.
All propagation can be done outdoors
in both climates - cunings and offsets
of plants root freely in o pen g round.

W ARM TEMPERATE AND SUBTROPICAL AREAS

OPUNn A
Clinwtc <1Jfcc1s die way in wJ1ich this pla111 is
grown. In cola dinurtes, it is t1 popular lwuscplanr:
i11 aritl Nol'lh Africa. die pricl,ly pear is witlcly
used ,~s « he,lging pfmu and fruit crop: b111 in
Attstrnlia, it has become ,1 pcnticious weed.
so propagation times, particularly for
outdoor seed sowing, can be advanced;
in other areas, spring is delayed and so
is propagation. Spring and autumn are
often mild and ideal for propagation.
Greenhouses ,vith artificial heat, cold
frames, and cloches are used ex tensively.
In the Mediterranean, native plants
include olives (Olea europea), Cisrus,
lavender, and many bulbous plants.
Humid climates support a diverse and
vast range or plants, from bu lbs and
camellias 10 pal ms, fuchsias, and pines.
In wann 1e1npera1e regions, seeds of
cool-climate plants may fail 10 germinate
in excessive heat, but propagation can
be delayed until autu1nn , winter, or very
early spring. Shade is vital in sum1ner,
as is adequate water and humidity. Seeds
germinate and cuuings root readily in
the natural wannLh , so artificial heat is
not needed, except sometimes in winter.
Subtropical cl imates are similar but
often there is adequa te natural humidit)'·
T ROPICAL REGIONS
Humid equmorial climates are noted for
tropical rainforests ,vi th abundant trees,
shrubs, and perennials such as bromeliads
and orch ids. Forests packed with plants
also occur in seasonal tropical climates .
A USTRALIA AND New Z EALAND
Pro pagation times in this book arc
primaril)' for cool temperate climates
and may differ in warmer climates
of Australia and New Zealand, and
regions such as southern Ca liforn ia,
where there are warm su mmers and
mi ld winters, because the growing
season is longer. Gardeners should
use timings given as g uidelines only
and take acco unt of local conditions.
In general, such climates allow
1nuch propagation 10 be undertaken
earlier or later in the year, or outdoors
rather than under cover. Check local
advice on sowi ng times for purchased
or home-gathered seeds.
Some cool-climate plants do not
thrive in wann to subtropical areas in
the heat and without a cool, dormant
period. Some seeds and bu lbs require
a cold period in a refrigerator before
ge rmination or growth can occur.

CLIMATIC ZONES OF THE WORLD

-
,.

1'f1e 111w1btr
of pla111 s11edes
11mh1e to rcgians
of rhe world vc1ries
with the dimmc;
the greates1 number
of species occurs i11
wann regions with KEY Seasonal tropical Cool co11 tincntal
regult1r rni,ifall, whereas
colcl or <1rid ,u"f<1S show
Arid 1lmnid High ahi1ucle
Semi-arid Medi1erranean Subpolar
much less diversi1y in
Humid equa1 orial Marhimc Ice cap
1heir natil'e ,,imu life.

37
INTRODUCTION
THE PROPAGATION ENVIRONMENT
O nce an)' plant material has been
correctly prepared for propaga1ion
and inserted into a suitable growing
medium (see pp.32-35), it is important
10 provide conditions that wi ll enable
the propagated material to s urvive
and establish as a young plant. With a
simple process such as division, all that
is often required is to replant the divided
sections in soil appropriate to the plant's
needs or perhaps 10 g row then1 on in
pots out of drying wind and sun.
Propagation involving regenerative
processes, such as the fonuation of new
roo1s, shoots, or bulblets, immedia1ely
de mands som e fonu of enviromuental
sup!JOrt until the new p lants become
independent. This also applies to grafts
and much seed propaga1ion.
The degree of care needed depends
on the species of plant and 1he mode
of propaga1ion used. Easily rooted
plants, for example those propagated by
hardwood c uttings outdoors in winter,
require minimal care, in contrast with
leafy cuuings take n in summer from a
difficul1-10-roo1 plant - these will need
a close ly regu lated environmen1 .
In colder climates, favorable
conditions can often only be achieved
under cover, whethe r ii be in the home,
conservatory, or greenhouse, to extend
the gro,ving season or increase tender
plants. For outdoor propagation, cold
frames, cloches, or nursery beds offer
a degree of shelte r. In warmer regions,
windbreaks, s hading s tructures, and
irrigation syste1us may be required.
MAlNTAINING HUMIDITY ON A SMALL SCALE
1' ENTING The easiest way 10 cove,- a single 110 1
is to create n tent over the propagmcd material
with a clean, transparent plastic l>ag. Hold the
bag clear of the plmu materiol wit Ir a wire ltoop
o,. a few split stahes. Altcmmively, put cite pot in
the bag. inflate the /Jag, and seal it.
38
Propagating plants away from 1heir
natural or adapted habital makes the,n
vulnerable LO auacks from pests and
diseases (see p.46) , so the propagation
area sh ould be kept as clean as possible.
Generally, seeds require water,
warmth, air (oxygen), and sometimes
light to germinate; seedlings and
vege1a1ive material n eed water, warm th ,
air (oxygen, carbon dioxide), ligh1, and
som etimes nutrients LO grow.
THE AERIAL ENVIRONMENT
The hl,l_midity of 1he air affects the
rate at which p lants 1ranspire, allowing
water to evapora1e from leaf pores.
The more humid the air, the less the
p lants iranspire. This is a cri ti cal issue
for unrooted leafy cuuings which in
spring and sum,ner need an atmosphere
of 98-100 percent humidity, and about
90 percent in winier, 10 prevent wilting.
Wilting cuttings have a reduced abil i1y
10 regenerate, fonu callus tissue at the
base, o r subsequent!)' develop roots.
Cuuings absorb moisture 1hrough
their c u1 bases 1nore quickly 1han
through leaves, but once callus 1issue
forms (in 3-7 days) wate r can be 1aken
in only by the leaves. The reduced
transpiration can stress cuuings,
resulting in leaf drop, so humidity is
essential for the survival of the cuuings.
Leafy cu ui ngs obtain e nergy for
rooLing by pho1osyu1hesis; for this to
occur, light, water, and carbon dioxide
are needed. Long sum mer days assist
with this process, but intense ligh t in
M'oisrurc from Lid rediff'Cl.l>
('uttmgsrises to rop moisi air fx,ck
of clost'd a,st· to plc,nts
('..JfL.-:=J.===·==-:::<:====::::::::::::::=--::------
ELEMENTS TO CONTROL
IN THE ENVIRONM ENT
There arc two factors l O be considered in
propaga1ion: the aerial environmenc and
growing medium. Elements in each must
be balanced to encourage growth.
A ERIAi. l;NVIRONMENT
• Humidity: to prevent rnoisture loss
by transpiration
• Light: to allow photosynthesis without
scorching
• Temperature: appropriate to plant
• Air quality: oxygen for respira,ion
and carbon dioxide for photosynlhesis
GROWING MEOIUM
• Moisture level : to encourage rooLS
and for photosynthesis
• lClnperature: to encourage growth
• Aeration: sufficient oxygen for growth
and to avoid diseases
• pH (acidity and alkalinity): llSllally
acidic. but appropriate to the plan,
• NuLricnt level: low until roots establish,
then increased for steady growth
su mmer overheats the a ir, which in 1urn
causes excessive transpiration and s tress
to cuuings. Shad ing (see p.47) to c reaie
indirect ligh1 aids rooti ng in a ,vide
range of p lants. Pho tosynthesis is then
restricted but can be maximized by
ventilating the propagation area lo
e nsure a norma l atmospheric balance.
Ventilation mus t be regulated 10 avoid
excessive loss of humidil)'· Plants are
~ M OVEMENT OF MOISTURE Prop<1gated
material such as leafy cuttings or seeds of1e11
musr be kept in a conwined space to heep the
air luonid. Tl1e cover swl's moisture in die
atniosplierefrnm evapomring, oml the vent
atrows excess humidity to be controlled.
WINDOWSILL CI.OSED CASE l'Ol'Wble
closed cases can be used indoot's to maintain
the higli humidiry nee,lcd to moi leafy
cutrings or germinate seeds. Some arc fi tted
will, electric heming eleme,us to pmvide
bottom heat and modult,r inserts 10 mal:c
efficient use of rite avail<1blc space.
~h-
 THE PROPAGAT ION ENV IRONMENT

COMMON TYPES OF CLOCHE

B ELL CLOCHE
Muclt used in the
ni11ecce,uh ceurwy.
rhtsc wen.· mcuk of
glass and were cusy
to UH)\!(" frnm {)II('

SJJOl to ,morh1·r.
JJmti<11forJy in die
hird1c11 g<.1nk11. The
curvccl walls ensure
thar co,,dcnsation
ti id~lcs w the
ground instead
offalling onto
the ym111g 11l<11us,
wJ1ich might amse
damage. Bell docilrs
BOTTLE CLOCHE Mllht an are now tl\1(1ifobk RIGID PLASTIC TUNNEL
individual dod1r by cuuing in glass or less CLOCIII, This C<III be ll/1)'
the !10110111 nff a clear plllstic costly plastic. lc11gtl1 and is hdd in pO)itiOn
boulc. Leave tile boule cap on by a mewl or ,,Jc,sric Jrnmc
wul use ir <1s a \'t'lll. tlwt anchors it to the soil.

PLASTIC BARN CLOCHE Tire ex11·a height of PL1\STIC-FILM TUNNEL CLOCHE Swuly wire FLOATING CLOCHE Made of pc,forntcd plllS(ic
rl1e sloJJing WJJ makes this tr versatilr doch1~. hoOJJS an· cm•ered by plastic film, winch (dlows film or woven poly/>ropylene fleece, rhis
1\.frrny designs (Ire uvaifabfe i11 pfasric or glt,ss: easy accessibility buc needs careful pegging i11cxpc11sivr cloche ·:()oars'" 111> '" young pl<1111s
forge clocl,es will SI nulcllc " <lcep bed, as here. dowu, A l<mg cloche cm1bf divided huo ~tctit>m,, Rl'OW. Ir c1IS<) aUuw~ air mul uwistun.· rhrnugh.

temperature-dependent and g row best CLOSED CASES CLOCHES

in warm1h, so a minimu,n temperature
appropriate to 1he plant must also be
maintained. All these factors demand a
fine balance of environmen1al control.
Other propagation ma1erial requi res
varying degrees of con trol in the aeria l
environment (see relevcmt chapters).
Seeds, grafts, and bulbous material all
need good ventila1ion , some humidity,
and warmth. Bromeliads and orch ids
need more humidity, and alpines and
succulents less, than most plants.
P ROPAGATION IN THE HOME
The simplest propaga1ion envi ronment
can be created b)' keeping individual
co111ainers on a bright windowsill or bay
window or in a glassed-in porch. The
location provides warmth and light;
humidity is maintained by covering the
container. For a seed tray, use plastic
wrap or a sheet of glass or plastic; for a
pot of cuuings, use a plastic bag (see Jar
left) or a boule cloche (see 1op, left).
Closed cases provide 1he high humidity
needed 10 germinate seeds or root leafy
cuuings. Small windowsill closed cases
(sec facing page) work beller indoors
rather than in a greenhouse. Larger,
heated closed cases are useful in a
g reenhouse in cooler climates to create
higher 1e1npera1ures and humidity.
The closed case's healing element
should be capable of providing a
minimum soi l-mix temperature of
59°F (15°C) - or 75°F (24°C) for
tropical plant material - in winter and
early spring, when outside temperatures
may be below freezing. An adjustable
thermostat will allow greater control
of the temperature.
Rigid plastic lids retain heat better
than thin plastic cove rs. Adjustable
vents in the lids allow mois1urc to
escape and stop the atmosphere from
becoming too humid , encouraging rot.
Venis should be kept closed until seeds
have germ inated and cuuings rooted.
ln the open garden in cooler cl imates,
cloches ma)' be used to warm the soil
and air, increase local humidity, and
give shelter fro1n drying winds and
so1ne protection from pests. They can
give seed lings, especially of vegetables,
an early start, provide a suitable rooting
environment for a wide range of easily
rooted cuuings, and be used as a
te1nporary shelter to harden off (see
p.45) or overwinter new planis.
A wide range of designs and materials
is available (see above). The best arc
glass or plastic; plastic al lows less ligh1
penetration and retains less heat. A
mini1num thickness of 150 gauge will
suffice, but 300, 600 or 800 gauge
offers much greaier pro1ec1ion. Single-
thickness plastic fihn does not retain
heat as well as glass or rigid plastic
but is cheaper. Plastic film and rigid
polypropylene lasts five years or more;
rigid, twin-walled polycarbonate Iasis
for at least ten years (co11ti1111ed on p.40).

39
INTRODUCTION

COLD FRAMES well as wooden and brick frames.

\Vt1rn1ccl ah cst,1pr,. AIR CIRCULATION IN A COLD
rnrryir1g 11cm wi1h ir FRAME Cold oir ,·xpancls
<md rises llS ii heats up on
<1 ww111 day. Oprn l11e
1>1111es of Ilic cold frame in
w<1rm weml,er tn allow
some warm air to escape
Cool t1ir r1ur,·s
wld frwnr cmd ,md d1r tcmpcr<Hurc
abso,bs hnll inside the coJd frame
,o remain reasonably
/J cool. This wifl P'Cducc
die rish of new 11ltlnts
suffering scorch.
Permanent frames musL be sited in a
sheltered position, where maximum
light is received in win ter and spring.
Cold frames overheat in sun unless
they are ventilated (see lefl) and shaded
well. Hinged panes (covers) can be
wedged open to Slop ove rheating but
may admi t strong winds. Sliding panes
can be removed en tirely, but this leaves
plants unprotecLed in hard rain .
If lhe ten1perature falls below 23°F
(-5°C), insulate the frame to avoid cold
damage. vVrap the outside with thick
layers of burlap o r polyester blan kets,
line the inside with Styrofoam, o r, in
dayti1ne, use bubble plastic so that
light can still pass through.

K EEPING OUT WORMS

• to go around and around, compacting
MOVEABLE COLD l' RA~IE Closs or plosric
frames with figl11wcight aluminum frnmcs
may hr placed uvcr prc,}(mYl soil in 1l1e gmrlt11
to form a 111irse1y bNl. Use n sheet muld, to
suppress weeds: 1,lant rhrough slit:,. in rhc mulch.
(Continued from p.39.) \Vell-fiuing end
pieces arc essen tial 10 stop the cloche
from becom ing a wind tunnel. In sunny
weather, shading (see p.45) may be
needed to prevent scorch ing.
Rigid cloches are more costly but
easier to move about, making watering
and transplanting easier. Some are self.
watering, with permeable coverings
that allow rainwater lo trickle through
or a tubular system connected to a hose.
Floating cloches of woven neece protect
against light frost.
COLO FRAMES
More permanent strucLures than
cloches, cold frames provide a halfway
house between the greenhouse and the
o pen garden in cool climates, providing
propagation material and new plants
with higher soil and air temperatures,
reduced temperatu re nuctuaLion, shelter
from winds, and adequate light levels.
Cold frames may be used to raise
seedlings early in the season, propagate
leaness and leafy cuttings, overwinter
seedlings and rooted cuttings, protect
grafts, and harden off new plants. They
may also be used to expose hard)' seeds,
such as those of alpines and man)' trees,
to a period of win ter cold. Cold frames
also suit plant material, such as that of
gray-foliaged Mediterranean plants or
hardwood cuuings, that do not like the
humidity of a closed case.
P ERMANENT COLD 1:R;-\MI! Afixed fYm11e C<ul
J}l'<l\'idc a lllffSt'J)' bed for ~cedlings ancl cuttings.
Li11e 1hc hasc wid1 ,1 thicli layer ,if dmi,wgc
uuue,ial. sud1 <IS brol:en l}Ots or coarse gmvcl.
Add 6i11 (15cm) t!f well-drai,wd soil mix..
A good number of pots or trays can be
accommodated in a cold frame. Cuuings
or seedlings can also be inserted direcLly
to root in a nursery bed in the frame
(see above). Soil-wanning cables (see
facing J>age) may be used in the bed.
Cold frames wiLh metal frameworks
let in most light and can be moved
around the garden to follow the besL
light at different times of year, buL they
do not retain heat or exclude drafts as
OUTDOOR NURSERY BEDS
falgh1g bCHrrd \¼uc,-
Jin (8r,11 ) ttbovt·
pameal>I,·
soil lc\'cl fabric
,
'.
Two-way jloh of
wmcr rluuugh soil
W ATER-PERMEABLE FAUR IC BED If rhe soil
is w1e,,e11 or badly drai11cd. cover it with sa11cl
first. Line the soil mu/ eclgi11g IJoords wirh bloc//
plosric, woven f<11Jric, or georcxrilc. The li11i11g
alloh's soil moisrm·e w read, the pots.
In the open garden, worms are great
aeraLors of the soil and are the gardeners
friends, but in a container in a cold frame,
they are menaces. The wonns are forced
the soil mix instead of aerating it.
To stop most worms, line the frame
with water-permeable fabric or line the
bases of pots with window screening.
A drench of a very dilute so lution of
potassiu111 permanganate will bring
any worms 10 the surface.
OUTDOOR NURSERY BEDS
Large numbers of new plants and
seedlings in con Lainers can be grown
on in an o utdoor nurser)' bed. The beds
s uppress weeds, isolate )'Oung plants
from soi l-borne diseases, and enable
contai ners to d rain freely whi le giving
planLS access to water through capillar)'
action. Sand beds require the least
watering. Level a site, enclose it with 3in
(8cm) high wooden boards, then line it
with fabric or sand (see below).
Ecl~ing
bomt"l Jin
(Sc,n) abo\ ,~
soil le\,d
l.,,ll)'t'r of
(OOfSr Stmcl
·-
--·
-~
... .
•
•
n\'O·way flow of Plume sl1t·t·1i,ig ,111
WClltT ihroug11 scmd Jin (2.5cm) below
Soil bed rop of eclging bocml~
SANl) HEt> Li11e rl,c bed wirh o doul,lc 11losric
sl1eet. Co,•er with sw1d to wil11i11 Iiu (2 .5cm) of
rl,c rop. Trim rhe plasric sheet;fill w rlie rop wi1h
sand; le\'el, Tl1c sand js a water reservoir; excess
waler drni11s c~way between the botu'll tmd lining.

40
 THE PROPAGATION ENV IRONMENT

THE GROWING- MEDIUM ENVIRONMENT
The choice or growing medium should
provide the propagated material with
the appropriate pH level and amount
or oxygen and nutrients (see pp.32-5),
but correct watering and tem perature
control or the medium is needed ror the
various growth processes, such as root
initiation or seed germination, to occur.
The growing medium must be kept
moist, but not waterlogged, which will
deprive the roots or seeds or oxygen and
promo te rot. Initially, ir the propagated
material is covered, the moisture level
in the growing medium will re,nain
fairly constant, but once g rowth begins,
the growing medium should be watered
when needed to keep it moist (see p.44) .
The temperature of the growing
medium can affect cenain biologica l
processes that indirectly affect plant
growth , such as the release or krtilizer
nutrients into so il mix.
For most pro pagation under cover,
the growing medium should be heated
separately - ir not, its temperature will
normally fall below that or the air. The
reasons ror this are the transfer of heat
into coole r areas be neath the medium ;
evaporation cooling the surface; any
watering or misting with cool water;
and loss of radiant heal at night.
To counteract these effocts, a system
providing thermostatically controlled
bottom , or basal, heat can be used to
ensure that the growing medium is
or a higher temperature than the air -
hence the old adage "wann bottoms,
cold tops." This enables unrootcd teary
cuttings in particular 10 avoid moisture
stress during root formation, especiall)'
during high summer.
Bouom heat that is as high as 77-86°F
(25-30°C) can cause a decline in root
growth . The opLimum temperature for
root formation, at mini1num cost, is
within 59-77°F (l5-25°C) ror most
material; 64°F ( 18°C) is a good average.
There are various wa)'s or supplring
bottom heat (see below). The simplest is
in a heated closed case. Soil-warming
cables are sold in varying lengths and
wattages that arc designed 10 heat given
areas, such as a bench or closed case.
For mist propagation (see p.44), use
twice the standard amount of cable.
Use a cable with a wired-in thermostat
connected to a grounded socket wi th a
circuit breaker. If using a propagating
blanket, place a plastic hood over seed
trays to maintain hu,nidil)'· An o rganic
hot bed is a fairly inexpensive option,
but it cannot be precisely regulated.

PROVIDING BOTTOM HEAT Tl1tnt10SICU n:gufmt~

Ce1bJe ttlso
c1ir ttmpfnllurc MAKING A HOT BED
hr'1ts c,irl

ScuuJ
bc<I
Ctmtml
box

CU17 "1NG CUTTlNG

GRO\VN GRO \VN
\ VI TH \VITHOUT
HEAT II EAT

s,,orii, - - ·-+--+----- - -
l1cal1l1y ··
roof~ ,.oots n.ernws1cu co111rols Soil warn1i,ig IDn1i11<1ge
soil tcmpcraHur a1blr holes
EFFECTS 01' BOTTOM IIEAT If 1hc 50lt·WAR~11 NG CA BLE Lay 1l1e cable, used here in
1cmpernrurr of tl1e l'OOl i11g medium is a 1'ro11<1g<11i11g case. in" series of ·s·· bends in" bed of
warmer rhn11 rhe c,h: c11Hit1gs usually moisl smul at c, del'd1of 2- Jin (.5-8cm). maldng sure Forh over rhe soil iu tl greenhouse border.
roor more q11ichly tmd strongly. Seeds
may olso germinme more successfully.
1hm 1he loops do 1101 rouch. Cables can also be used ro
wcu1n c,ir iu cndoscd spaces, cis i11 this i11sumct.
1 Cover wirh a 9i11 (23cm) l<1yer offresh,
strawy horse mcmure and 2in (5cm) of soil.
Dust wilh lime lO 11e111mlize the acidity.

PROPAGATING 8LANKEr This specialize•tl '-1+--Tltcnnosttu am be set

bla11hcl is made of electric wires encased in 10 ff(luire,l tcmr,erature

aluminum foil IO p,·o,•ide cm C\'e11 spread of 1,em.

Jt nwy be usal on t, bench or 011 the floor to Probt nwniwrs
1cm1>t.·1·c1ture
provide a 1cm1,ora,) ,,rop<lgtHio11 area for plar11
1
(ff \llljllC('
mcue,ial in pOlS or i11 1mhtcued clC1setl cases.
\Vhen not in use. il nwy be! rnJJed up mul swn·d.

Copillmy malling

Lt 1$
Builtl up the bell with two more layers
Po!)s1yrcnc
hmilClli(m pCld - ~ - . . - - - -
2 of manure, soil. and lime, finishing wi1l1
a firm, level layer of soil. Leave Jo,· a c/<1y or
Gn.Tnliousc bend, _ _, so for 1/,c bed to slClrl hearing up before use.

41
INTRODUCTION
T HE GREENHOUSE
For those interested in propagating
plants in cold climates, a greenhouse is
a valuable asset, allowing a sophisticated
degree of environmental regulation.
There are many different s tyles available.
Some models are designed for maximum
light penetration, heat conservation, or
venti lation, while others make the most
economical use of space.
A lean-to or mini -greenhouse benefilS
from the warmth and insulation of the
house wall , but extreme temperature
changes are 1nore con11non. Plastic
tunnels are mostly used for raising crops
at soil level. They offer some protection
from cold and winds but not the warm
conditions of a traditional greenhouse.
Ventilation may be a problem.
The minimum temperature in the
greenhouse wi ll determine the range
of plants that can be propagated. There
are four categories of greenhouse: cold,
cool, temperate and warm .
A cold greenhouse is not heated at all
and may be useful for propagating alpines
and cuttings, overwintering plants, and
raising summer crops and hardy seedlings.
A cool greenhouse is heated just
enough 10 keep it above freezing, with
minimum daytime temperatures of
41-50°F (5-l0°C) and a nighuime
minimum of 36°F (2°C). It is good
for overwintering tender rooted cu11ings
and raising early bedding plants. A
closed case mus t be used 10 germinate
seeds or to root cuttings.
A temperate greenhouse has minimum
da)•timc temperatures of 50-55°F
(10-13°C) and a nighuime minimum
of 45°F (7°C). Additional warmth ma)'
be needed for propagation in spring. It
is used main ly for hardy 10 slight ly
tender material , such as many bedding
o r vegetable crops.
ALTERNATIVE TYPES OF GREENHOUSE
:.•...~
I
'
-·../ I.--~-
-
...........
"
PLASTIC TUNNEL GREENIIOUSE This is a low-
cost strncture, nwde of a l<1rge. t111111d-shaped
fmmc covered with l1ea,y-d1uy, 1rtms1,aret11
plastic. The plastic is good only for a year or so:
it becomes opaque, reducing light pene,rmion.
42
A wann greenhouse has high humid ity
and a daytime temperature of at least
55-64°F (l3-l8°C), with a nigh1tilne
minimum of 55°F (I 3°C). A wide range
of plants can be propagated , including
tropical and subtropical planlS - man)'
without special propagatio n equipment.
R EGULATING THE ATMOSPHERE
During the growing season, relative
humidity in the greenhouse of 40-75
percent is beneficial. In winter, lower
hu1nidit)' is needed, at an appropriate
level for the plants. \"let and dry bulb
thennometcrs, used with hygrometric
tables, or hygrometers, may be used to
measure relative humidity. The level
of humidity is so1newhat dependent
on the air temperature, si nce warm air
holds more water than cold. Humidity
may be increased by splashing water on
the floor or staging ("damping down "),
mist-spraying automatically or by hand ,
or allowing water in a tray to evaporate.
Humidity is decreased by ventilation.
A minimum temperature may be
maintained by use of electric, gas, or
kerosene heaters. Electric ones are most
efficien t and reliable and usually have a
thermostat, which means that no heat is
wasted. Electric fan heaters are the 1nos1
useful , ensuring good air ci rculation .
Kerosene heaters are least efficien t, since
they are not con trolled by a thermostat
and produce plant-toxic fumes and
water vapor. If the heater has no
thermostat, use a maximum/minimum
thermometer to monitor nigh11ime
temperatures. In cold regions, a cold
alann is useful.
Adequate ven tilation is essential to
control air temperature and humidity.
The area covered by ventilators should
be equal to one-sixth of the greenhouse
floor. Use air vents, louver windows,
.,
,:
r blinds (see faci11g page), flexible mesh,
'
, ,.
/ ~
MINI-GREENHOUSE Usually aluminum1rnmed,
tliis is <1 useful pmpagmiug area if space is
limited. Place agai11st a wall or fe11ce, Jaci11g
south (Nonhenr Hemisphere) or 110.-ih (S0111l1enr
Hemispliere) for maximum J,ear cmd HgJu.
GROW LAMP
SJ.h,riaf lamps <u-e used ro e.xrrnd daylengrh cmd
promo1c eal'ly ge,mi11cuion or rooting or impmvt·
grnwth of new plmus, cspccwlly in winrer or
spring. They 111ay be mewl lwlidc (closest ro
nattu·ul light), mercury vapo,: 01"jluoresce11t,
wut hm,e reflecwrs that direct light onto pfants
and fi.,~tures insufored against humid <1ir.
extractor fans, or automatic syste1ns
(see facitig page) LO avoid a buildup of
overheated air in warm weather, or
stuffy, damp air in co ld conditions, o r
of fumes from gas or kerosene heaters.
Louver ventilators are us ual ly below
the staging and are useful for controlling
air flow through the greenhouse in
wint er, when roof ventilators may allow
too much heat to escape. Vents must
close tightly to exclude draflS. Use a
household extractor fan that is powerful
enough for the size of the greenhouse,
and install it at the opposite end of the
greenhouse to a door or louver window
to replace stale air with fresh.
In hot weather, external shading
helps con trol the air temperature and
protect pro pagated material from stress
and scorching sun ligh t; use specially
formulated shading washes (see p.45),
o r fabric o r rigid polycarbonate sheelS.
A shading wash should be applied LO
reduce the bright sunlight of su mmer
then washed off with a cleaning solution.
Shading fabric may be hung on wire
runners across or alo ng the length of the
propagating bench o r greenhouse.
Blinds are used mainly externally and
arc more versatile than washes, since
they ,nay be rol led up or down or used
in only one section of the greenhouse,
as necessary. Flexible shading meshes
can be used externally or internal!)•, and
although they arc less adaptable than
blinds, they can be cut to length and
placed in position for a season.
 THE PROPAGATION ENVIRONMENT

\¥ inter insulation can supplement and
reduce the cost of heating but may also
diminish light levels. Bubble plastic,
which consists of double or triple skins
of transparent plas ti c with air cells
in-between, can be cul to size and is
very efficien t. A single layer of plastic
sheeting may also be used - it is less
expensive and cuts out less light.
Thennal screens are good for conserving GREENHOUSE STAGING
heat at night. They consist of sheets of For propagation, it is most useful 10
clear plastic or translucent fabric hung have staging, whether permanent or
on wires between the eaves and drawn freestanding, around the three sides
horizon tally across the greenhouse in of the greenhouse. There shou ld be a
the evening. A high-humidity area for good-sized gap between the back of the
tropical planlS or a warmer area for early staging and the greenhouse walls 10
seedlings may be created at one end of allow for air circulation. Slaued or mesh
the greenhouse wiLh a vertical screen. benches permit a (continued on p.44)

THE PROPAGATOR'S GREENHOUSE

A grce11ho1rsc proviclcs rhc garde,icr wirh 1he Exh·n1<rl slwding AulOmcrtic ,,c,11 o,,cm•r t()ntrols uh·
blinds pt'e''c:nr iempcraluft a,1d humidi1y by oprmng
opponu11i1y ro create a number of separmc. muommia11ly wl,e,i 1em1,crnwre rises
controlled euviro11me111s. rhis greenhouse is S(Ot'rfl m1d
overheating in cibow· ,,,.fdf1ermi11ed le"el
tlfuip/Jed witl1all the elemellls necess<H)' 10 hot wc,uher
,,ropagate 1111d raise a wide rcmge of pla11rs.
Some of il1e cc111~ipmcm, sud1as the closed
propagating cast, may be purchased as a unir or She'f ,iear roof e,iablr-,.
be SJJecially buih. Elements suclt as insulation or young ,,rmus ro rrceivt
hcming may no, br naessary in wcu1u dimarcs. ma.:dmum liglit <md ,wnntlt

Closccl p,-c,p(lglltrng am.· fiue<I

wi1h soil· ,rnd alr•wmming cablt!t

Internal
h1sulario,a for
cold r.limmes

1l1ennome1cr

Efatrit rty Ponabk

supply l1eared
dosed aisr
Smt1II
tool box

l
C<1pilfory matting
wa1eri11g sysum

w,uu rcsc:n·ofr
Heating JJipes Jtceps rn1,illa,y
10 nwhunin
m<Hti,1g moisl
temperature
in cold wta1l1e,
S1orage s,1t1,•es
for wols mul
equi,,me,i1
~:"-I- Gravel l>t,l provides
cool, shadt•d s1a11dh1g,
for t.\"mnplc for grafted Sl,mtd
1,lants: pols of seeds or swghig
bulbs may be' plunged to
keep cool cmd moisr in
summr,. warm in wit111:r

Lo1o•c r Mist ,,,.opagalion He1rd pm ing cw, be S1ock of soil mixes Clt"tmablc polling c,fea p,avitlts.
w·ntal<Hor uni1 for cuuing..., tl<tmpcd down w ,uul othc,. medill wo,.,: s111jc1u suitable for uumy
w1d seedlings it1C:1'f(l$C humidity prvpagmion wshs

43
INTRODUCTION
(co11ti1111edfrom p.43) freer flow of air
than solid staging; they a re usefu l for
raising plan ts in pots, such as alpines or
cacti and su cculents 1hat need very free-
d raining growing media. Solid surface
s taging can be fitted wilh a capillary (see
p.43) or a trickle-hose watering system.
To convert solid surface s taging into
a pro pagating bench, ch oose a bench
that is at least 4in (10cm) deep. Line
the base wi1h a l in (2.5cm) layer of
small gravel or clay pellets, then lin
(2.5cm) of coarse horticultura l sand .
Lay soil-warm ing cables (see p.41) and
cover with another l in (2.5cm) of sand.
Fill ii with soil m ix for direct rooting of
cuttings or mo re sand LO provide bottom
heat for con1ainers. Alternatively, use
a p ropagating blanket (see p.41). The
bench ma)' also be covered wi1h p lastic
film for extra humidily (see above) .
GREENHOUSE WATERING SYSTEMS
A watering can fined with a fine rose is
the 111os1 cfficien1 way LO water a m ixed
collection of new p lants, especially in
colder weather. In spring, delicate new
plants can be damaged by co ld water.
Always fill a watering can and allow ii
LO stand, or keep a water tank under the
s taging, so that the wa1er is the sam e
temperature as in the green house.
In very warm conditions, au tomatic
systems save time. A capillary system
consists of a 1/-2in (2-5cm) deep sand
bed or layer of capillary malling tha1
is kepi consta nily wet by water from
a reservoir (see p.43). The water seeps
into the san d or malling and th en into
pols or seed trays by capillary action .
Plastic pots usually a llow good contact
with the capillary layer, b ut clay pots
may need a wick of capillary matt ing to
be placed in each drainage hole. These
systems are too wet for winter use.
Trickle irrigation sys1e1ns em ploy
a network of narrow-gauge tubing
that carries water from a reservoir LO
44
PLASTIC- Fl LM TENT but wilhout loss o f humidity. The p lastic
This way oj covering fi lm should be removed at least once a
a hemed bench is week for ab out 30 m inutes.
used widely iu plmu This technique is also u sed in p lastic
11ursrries 10 ht~cp 1he tunnels to crea te extra warmth . So me
nir hum id w11 ii c uttings, especially those wi 1h hairy
cuuings mot. '11c '1ft leaves, arc beuer left uncovered. In an
(1.2m) stnhes to the enclosed environmen t, the hairs trap
legs of 1hr bench or water d rople1s, wh ich can lead lO rot.
,wging. Ma/11· /wops Cu uings with waxy o r succulent leaves
of srrong wire and a re a lso prone to rot if covered.
insrrr 11,e r11cls into
the tops of tht S PECIALIZED PROPAGATION UNITS
stakes. Drape n Leafy cu ui ngs may be rooted in mis1-
sheet of opaque and fog-propagation units more rapidly
plastic over 1ht~ and in larger numbers than by o ther,
hoops so tJwt if more conven tional means. These
co111plc1dy endoscs automatic S)'Slcms are based on 1hose in
the W/> of the benc/1. use in com mercial nurseries (see below
and p.14). They p rovide a con stantly
warm and humid enviro nmc n l, so
individua l con tainers. The reservoir avoiding 1he need to wate r and reducing
is refilled regularly o r fed b)• the water heat loss by evaporation and moisture
supply. Nozzles on each tube re lease loss by transpiration. The c uuings arc
water d rop by d rop and can be adjusted less prone 10 fungal diseases, since spores
Lo suit the needs o f each container are washed ou t of the ai r and from leaves
of p lants. before they can infec1 plant tissues.
Seep hoses, widely u sed in the open Mist propagation covers cuuings with
garden, are perforated so that water a fi lm of water; fog pro pagation avoids
seeps out alo ng the length o r the hoses, th is by c reating a finer vapor so is best
bu t these may not be able 10 supply a for cuuings tha1 are susceptible to rot.
sufficient a moun t of water in a very Mist uni ts arc n ot generally covered, but
warm g reenhouse. this can c reate 100 h umid an atmosphere
for other plants in the greenhouse.
PLASTIC-FILM PROPAGATION
Used for a wide range of plants, including G RAFTED PLANTS UNDER COVER
sub1ropical and tropical ones, plastic- Grafted plants a lready possess roots and
film pro pagation invo lves la)•ing a s hee1 s h oots but need warmth and humid ily ~·
of clear o r opaqu e plastic direcil)' 01110 the un ion of the rootstock and scion 10
poLS or tra)•S of cuu ings a fter watering encourage it 10 callus over (" heal," see
1hem in . This is an inexpensive way p.27). This may be achieved by tenting
of crea ti ng high hu1nidi1y and wann1h each graf1 in a plastic bag (see p,38),
around the cuui ngs, but it n eeds careful using p lastic fi lm (see above), or p lacing
management. The cutti ngs must be the graft un ion in a special hot-air pipe
venti la ted to avoid excess condensa1ion , (see p.109). Too m uch warmth at the
SPECIALIZED PROPAGATION UNITS
Ilootl flttr,I witf, Misting 11('(1d sprays - -'f!l Hc"tc,l
gmw fmnp$ fine· d,·oplc1s 1>ropagcu1ng Vc'nd1
TJu:, mo~1a1
cor1trols ,uut,
Item er \\'mer \Vcuc, supply
r't~tl \'Oil
F OG PROPAGATI ON UN11' Tliis unir pumps M IST PROPAGATION UNIT Tire misting liead
fresh air thr0t1gh a wmcr rescrvoi,, c,·cming" a11umwtically delivers an intenniucnt spmy of
w(irm "Jog·• cffmmd the pmpllgmetl mmerial fine droplcis Ol'l'I' 1hc pro1"'gatcd pla111s. Tlir
without weuing die len\'CS. Vapor conclcnses hetw.:cl bench t,itls moli11g, wltile the mis1 cools
011 rhe sides ,wcl runs bacJ: i11to die reservoir: rhe to1'growtl1mul 1,rc-\•c111s moisture loss.

US ING SHADI NG TO PROTECT NEW PLANTS
Shading should protect plant material from
being scol'ched by direct sun while still
allowing sufficient light for good growth
10 pass through it. Some shading materials
arc used for the greenhouse (S<< p.42). for
example shading washes, but 01 hers can be
StlAOING WASH
Wnsf,es n1c1lie
ve,y effective
shading becm,se
they reduce the
hemfro111 the
sun sig11ifica111/y
wJrile allowing
enough light
through far g00<I
pla111 grow1h.
Apply the wc1sh
externally.
roots or shooLS encourages early root
and bud g rowth before the graft un ion
has formed.
WEANING PROPAGATED PLANTS
;)nee the propagated plants have fully
lunctioning root and shoot systems that
arc adequate for independent survival,
the p rocess of weaning the new plants
from the propagation environ111en1 into
a growing environme nt shou ld take
place. The amount of care needed for
Lhis process depends on the species,
mode of propagation, time or year, and
type o f propagation environmenl.
Leaf)' cuuings that have bee n roo1ed
in summer in 111is1 or fog propagation
units or under plastic film are most
vulnerable during weaning. (1 111ay
take 2-3 weeks for the planLS 10 fully
acclimatize. First, bouom heat is Lurn ed
off, allowing it 10 fall naturally to the
air 1e111pera1ure. The humidity leve l is
then gradually red uced. Plastic film is
re111oved for a longer period each day:
after 3-7 days. the covers should not be
replaced at nigh1. A similar program is
followed for mist and fog propagation
uniLS: the duration and frequency o f the
mist or fog bursts are reduced, the n
the units are switched off at nigh t.
Other propagated plants that are in
covered or special envi ronmenLS within
the greenhouse, such as closed cases,
covered benches, o r high -h umidity te nLS,
should be gradually exposed to the open
greenhouse atmosphere over 1-3 weeks.
used on smaller structures, such as ncxiblc
meshes (sec below) and new paper. In
warmer climates, shade houses are useful.
These are constructed from wooden slats,
brushwood. or woven shadecloth: slats are
b<,st because the)' create dappled light.
FLEXIBLE M ESft Plastic
mesh ccm be cur to site aJUI
usetl as intenwl or exrtrior
shading. T/,c amount of
shade given dcpcncls 0 11
rhe mesh size.
SUN TUNNELS
In chmates witlt
hot .sun, r111111d
cloclies of white
\voven material
streuhe<l over
wire hoops nwy
be constmctcd
10 a11y lc11gt/1.
They Jilter the
sunlight but do
nor retlticc rhe
hear much.
Once weaned , new plants can be placed
in wel l-ve ntilated areas al temperatures
appropriate 10 the species. They should
be shaded because direct s unlight heaLS
the air, causing stress in young planLS
and scorching tender new foliage.
At this stage, excessive growth
should be discouraged 10 avoid shooLS
d eveloping at a faster rate than can be
suppon ed by Lhe new rooLS. This can
be ach ieved b)' keeping the growing
medium slightly drie r than before.
If new plants are 10 be overwintered
under cover, a frost-free environmen t is
sufficien t for hardy plants. More te nde r
subj ects should be ke pt a t a minimum
te mpe rature a pp ropria te to their needs.
l-L\ROENING or-r NEW PLANTS
/11 cold climmes, a cold frame provides a good
hcrlfwcry house between ll1e gtet11housr and rhc
open garden. Keep ntw pltmt:,. iu the c()ldframe
for 1- 3 wee•lls befon, ,,ionting out.
THE PROPAGAT ION ENV IRONMENT
Some conu11e rcial growers have an
automatic system to brush the tops of
seedlings. especially o r vegetables, for
1-2 minutes per day: this mimics the
effecLS of wind and rain , making growth
sturdier and more robust. Gardeners can
do the same, lightly brushing seedl ings
with hands o r a piece of cardboard.
HARDENING OFF
Before planting out, )'Oung planLS must
be harde ned off - acclimatized 10 the
temperatures outdoo rs . This may take
1-3 weeks and must 1101 be rushed
because, over a period of days, the
natural waxes coating the leaves must
undergo changes in fonn and th ickness
to reduce wate r loss. S1oma1al pores on
the leaf also need 10 adapt to the less
favorable conditions.
Transferring young plants 10 a cold
fram e is ideal - il can be ventilated
inc reasing ly, as cond itions perm i1 ,
until the covers are fully open al night
as well as by day. A cloche may also be
used but does 11 01 give as much co ld
pro tection as a cold frame. Alte rnatively,
place the containers near a wall or hedge
and cover al night, and by day in poor
conditions, with newspaper, plastic
sheeting, or shade ne uing.
P ROTECTING OUTDOOR BEDS
Outdoor seedbeds and nursery beds do
not have the controlled enviro nment
found under cover but may need some
form or protection. Drying winds can
stress plant material by increasing
moistu re loss: e rect windbreaks on
the side of the prevailing winds or use
cloches. In warm climates o r seasons,
beds may need irrigation: seep hoses
(see facing page) are use ful; lay them
along the feet of the new plan LS.
Barriers can be e rected to protect the
beds against pests; for example, )•arn can
be strung across seedbeds to deter birds,
and barriers o f mesh or neece pu t u p to
stop rodenLS or carrot root maggot.
PROTECTION AGAINST PEST~
8irds a11d rodents can devasrcuc seedbeds. Bend
wire netting tl1a1 has c1 mesh no bigger than Jin
(2.5cm) IQ fon11" cage 011d peg i1 finnly i111c> tl,c
soil. Tf,c mesh ulso savt.'s as o plc11u SUJ>port.
45
INTRODUCTION
PLANT PROBLEMS
n nature, plants adapt to share specific
I environ rnents wi th a wide ra nge or
both beneficial and hostile organisms,
such as animals, insects, bacteria, and
viruses, forming a complex structure
or relationships that allow the plants
to thrive. Propagated plants are usually
removed and isolated from this natural
bal~nce in a type of monoculture that
leaves them vulnerable to auack from
harm ful pests and diseases.
T he use or bouon1 heat, frequent
watering, and high humidi ty that are
so often essential in propagation also
encourage the proliferation of a range
or debi li tating fungi . T hese are often
introduced through poor hygiene in
preparation of the plant material or
in contam inated soil mixes and include
species or Phywpluhota, Pythium, and
Rl1izoc1011ia, wh ich cause dam ping off
(see below) and seedling blight.
Lt is best to try to prevent plant
problems occurring at all and, if this
COM MON PROBLEMS AFFECTING PROPAGAT ED MATERIAL
V IRUSES Let,ves and stems are swmcd or
distorted ,md usually tlcvel"I' yellow streahs,
mottling. or spors. Then· are numy vinises tluu
c1r(" often rrcrnsmirred from infected p,1rc11rs o,·
by sap-Jerding insects, sue/, t1S <1pliicls. Destroy
affected /Jlmtts 1nmnptl) anrl dean Jiands and
1 choose rouse t, s1ro11ger chemical co11trol,
tools thoroughly 1,fta l1111ulfing.
DAMPING OFF Seeclfingsflop ove,; ofren with a
brown shnwhen ri11g a, the stem base) a,ul white
fungus appears. rhe wcHer· cmd soil-home fungi
spread rapidly in wet soil mix, Jiumitf wan111h.
1>oor light, and dense sowi11gs. \Vl1c11 sowing,
obscn,e good hygiene ,md sow thinly. Treat wirlt
a f1111gicidc.
46
fails, 10 recognize and treat them at an
early stage. The pictures below and the
chart opposite describe so1ne diseases,
pests, and disorders affecting new plants.
P REVENTING PROBLEMS
The fi rst principle or propagation is to
take material from healthy, strong plants;
pests and diseases can be transmi ned
from the parent. Th is can be a particular
problem with viruses (see below) and
pests that are not easily disccrnable such
as nematodes (see .-ight); plants prone to
such proble,ns, such as Phlox, arc best
raised fro1n seeds or root cu ttings.
To avoid introducing pests or diseases
when preparing material, especially if
any woundi ng is involved, it is wise to
observe good hygiene (see p.30) and
10 use sterile growi ng med ia (see p.32).
Providing the best possible condit ions
for the propagated material (see The
Propagation Enviro nment, pp.38--45)
ensures it is less vulnerable to auack.
APHIDS rhese sc,pjcecllng insccls ccmse stunted
growth and distorted lecwcs and excre1e sugmy
honeydew on wl,ich soory mold grows. especially
in higl1humidi1y. Orgtmic insccticitles fndudc
pyrethrnm, de,,-is, and inseclicidal soaps; ifyou
exercise cawion.
COlD DAMAGE The upper vans of leaves
on cuuings or seedlings turn brown or bfocll or
appear p11le grcc11 or brow11 as if scorched a,ul
may wilt, witl1cr, or die back. Nip off c,jfcaecl
lecwes or discard severely damaged J>lcmts.
Prcven, cola damage by ens11ring a warm
en"ironmc,11, such crs inc, hem eel dosed case.
Certain pests can be troublesome if
they gai n a hold in the propagation
envi ronment. Spider mites, for instance,
hibernate during winter in nooks and
crannies in the greenhouse. To avoid an
infestation during the growing season,
scrub the propagation area annually
with a solution of disi nfectant. This
also helps control whitefiies, mildew,
and the various fungi that cause
damping off or blackleg (see below).
Outdoors, use barriers (seep. 45) against
pests, such as mice (see below) , birds,
and rabbits, which damage seed lings
and new plants.
C ONTROLLING PROBLEMS
Regu larly check new plants and cont rol
any problems as soon as they arise; [or
exam ple, discard any cuuings that show
signs or rot, viruses, or cold damage
(see below). Lf using organic or chemical
controls, choose the most appropriate
product available in )'Our area.
BLACKLEG Before ()r as roors fon11, tlie base of
ci cutting clarke11s and mrophics: rhc UJ>per p<rrts
chcn discolor and die. This is ccmsecl b)' soil-
or w<Htr~l,ome fungi being introduced tl1mugh
clirty ronrainers, wnls, 1111s1erilizecl soil mix, or
water. Alwa)'S observe stricr l1ygicnc wul use tl
fungicidal mming compo1111cl ancl clean wcHe,:
M OUSE DAMAGE Seeds. especicdly pea. bea,,,
tmcl corn seeds, m1cl crocus corms "uufoors are
eaten, leaving the shoots lying 0 11 tl1e surface.
Firrn 1he soil over crocus corms to stop mice
from discovering ihem. Cover a newly sown
seedbed with wire netting, set mouse ,raps
nearby, or sow the seccls indoors.

OTHER COMMON PROBLEMS AFFECTING PROPAGAT ED MATERIAL
PRO BLEM
OowNv ,111.0EW Ye11ow or discolored areas
on upper lea( s u rfaces. corresponding lo
hiZZ)'. grayish while or purplish fongal
growth beneath. common on )'Oung plant$.
Infection ma)' spread and seedlings can~
killed or their growth OOdl)' checked.
l;T!Ol.,\TION Plam looks pale, with poor leaf
development and widely spaced nodes.
Foo-r AND ROOT ROTS Deterioration or
ussues around the stein base, causing upper
parts or plant to ,vih, discolor. and die.
Roo1s ma)r turn blttck and break or rot.
FUNGliS GNAT Graylsh-b(()wn Oics, '.'in
( 3-4mm) long. fl), or run O\'er soil inix:.
Seedlings and cuuings foil 10 grow.
Trnnsluccru while larvae may be seen.
GR.AY MOLO (001R,1 1s) Gray. occasionally
off.wh11c or gray·brown. run)'. fongal
grow1h develops on in(c(:tCd areas and may
attack all pans above ground. Usually gains
entry via wounds or J>Oints o r da,,,age.
NEMATODts These sap·focding pests leave
no visible holes in the leaves bu1 release
a toxic saliva that results in leaf distonion
and discolor:nion. Soil·dwelling nematodes
can kill ro01s and spread virus diseases.
Pow»F.R,· Mll.01:W \Vhite. powdery. rungal
grow1h on upper fear surfoces, and then
on all 1>.1rts above ground . Affected parts,
especially )10ung fo liage. ma)' )'tllow and
become distoncd. Growth may be poor. in
extttme cases causing dicback and death.
RUSTS Patches o r s1>0res. eilher as masses
or pustules. u:,ually brighl orange or dark
brown, develop on 1he lower le-.1f surface.
with yellow discoloration above.
S CORCII Luvcs w,lt, 1urn yellow or brown,
become di)' and crisp. and may die; margins
arc afTccled firs t. Stems may die back.
51.UGS ANO SNAILS Irregular holes appear in
foliage o r seedlings and cu1tings. and s1cms
arc damaged at soil le\'CI. Slimy mucilage
mi1y lc:ave a distinctive sil"ery deposit.
Snou MrrES Le.1ves develop a fine
pale mo ttling on the upper surface; foliage
becomes dull green. then }'Cllowish white.
Leaves ran prematurely, and a One silk
webbing may cover the p lant.
TURIPS A One, silvcr·white discoloration.
monled wilh tiny b lack do1s, appears on
the upper s urface or the leaves.
V1Nt Wl;l:VIL LARVAE Plan1s grow slowly,
wilt. and may die. Outer 1issues of seedlings
or wood>• p lants and cuttings may be
gnawed rro m 1hc stems below ground.
\V1Rt;;WOR.\IS Stems of seedlings are bitten
through just below soil level.
-
CAUSE
Several difftrtnt fu ngi, in particular species or
Pero11ospora, 8ft'mia. an d Plc,smopart1, which are
encouraged by humid cond illons.
Inadequate light supply. causing extc.nd ed g rowth t0ward
ligh1 source and abnormal chlorophyll development.
A range or soil- and water-borne fungi that flourish where
growing conditions are not ad equately hygienic. Tomtttoes.
cucumbers, and melons arc sometimes aITec1ed, especially
In greenhouses. If unchecked, rungi build up in 1he soil.
Black-headed larvae. up tO ¼in (5mm) long. of flies (such
a$ Brmlysia) reed mainly on decaying o rganic matter bu1
also roots or seedlings and cuttings. They may bore into
the bases o r stems or cuttings.
A common fongus, 801,y1is ci11e,,,1. tha1 thrive.,; m damp
conditions. It~ spores are almosl always present in 1he air
and are spread by rain or water splash and air currents.
Spores may persist year 10 year as hard, black sclerotia
(dormant spores) in soil or on infoc1ed plam dcbns.
Microscopic. wonnlike animals Lhat feed in host plant.
s uch as narcissus nematode, or live in soil and all3Ck root
hairs (PratylcncJ11.1s. Lo11giclorns, ·r,;chodorus, Xi1,hintma
species). Main pests on flowering plants in greenhouses
arc leaf nematodes (Apl1de11d1oides species).
Various fungi. m JXITlicular many species or Oitlium,
Micros1>1aaera, Podos,,iwcra. U11t i11ufo, E1ysipl1e. and
P11yll<lcli11ea, w hich thrive on plants g rowing in dry soil.
Some only infect a single genus or closely related host
1>lants: o ther :mack widely. Spores are spread by wind and
rain splash : 1he fungi may overwin1er on plant surfaces.
Various fongi , mosl ohcn Puccini" and Mdampsorti
species. which thrive in humid conditions. The spores
.1re s pread h)' water splash and air cu rren1s.
Excessi\'ely high 1empcra1ures, especially in a greenhouse,
bright but not necessarily hot sunlight, o r wind drying
out the leaves.
Slugs (such as Milax, Arian. and Oeroceras species)
and snails (such as HdixM1>ersa); 1hcse are slimy•bodied
mollusks tha1 reed on soh plant rna1erial, mainly a1 night
or ar,er rain.
Sap-feeding mites. Te1ra11yd1us urricae, that auack a wid e
range of indoor and greenhouse plants and those outdoors
in warm, dry sites. Mites are less than ~~in (J mm) long
and have four pairs or legs. They breed rapidly in warm.
dry conditions: some have resistance 10 miticides.
There are many different species o r 1hrips - narrow-
bodied. elongate, brownish black insects to ~in (2mm)
long, sometimes crossed with pale baods, that feed by
sucking sap. They thrive in h ot. dry conditions.
Plump. creamy white. legless grubs of the beetle
Oliorhy11dms sulwtus. up to ½in ( I c1n) long, with brown
heads and slightly ctu-ved bodies that li\'e in soil and feed
on roo1s. Long-term, container-grown p lants, such as
cuttings and seedlings of wood y plams. are most at risk.
Slender. stiff-bodied. orange-b rown larvae or click bec1lcs
(such as i\g,.ious species). to I in (2.5cm) long. 1hat live in
soil . The)' are mos1 numerous in newly dug grassland, but
gradually decline if land is cuhhiatcd regularly.
PLANT PROBLEMS
CONTROL
Remove infected leaves as soon as seen. Improve
air c1rcul:uion around plants by extra spacing and
weed co1urol. In g reenhouse. increase ven1ila1ion;
avoid overhead wa1cri ng and crowding of pots or
trays, Spray infected plants wilh suilablc fungicide.
Move p lams to a bright , airy loc:uion. Provide
adequ.ue light for newly germina1ed seedlings.
No cure avail:tblc. To ttvoid spread or fongi. discard
infocted plants promptly, together with the soil or
.soil mix around the roots. Good hygiene preventS
introduction and spread. Rcplan1 resistant plants.
Mairuain good hygiene and avoid overwatering.
Introduce a predatory mite (Hypoo.spis mifrs)
or n cm:1tode (I fe1erof'ht1bdifis) 10 reed on grubs.
Drench soil mix with spray•strength pennethrin.
Remo"e de.ad or injured plant parts before they
are inrected. cutting back into healthy grow1h. Oo
no1 leave plant debris lying around. Improve air
circulation and reduce humidity. Spray wilh a
suitable rungicide.
Do not replant pans or gardens from which
infected p lants have been removed wi1h the same
types of plant Strict hygiene is essenlial; discard
all infested leaves and plants. No effective
chemical control for nematodes.
Avoid dry shes and mulch as necessary. Keep
p lants adequately watered. bul avoid overhead
wmering. Remove lnfoc1cd leaves immediately.
Spray with a suitable fungic ide.
Remove infocted leaves, improve air drcula1,on.
and d iscou rage lus h growth. Spray plants with
a su itable fungicide .
Try to ptc\1ent ii from occt1rring b)' improving
ventilation. providing shade. and damping down
the greenhouse floor or giving shelter rrom wrnd,
Protect vulnerable plants, especiall)• in wet
we.11hcr. Remove by lmnd artcr dark o r during
overcast days: use: beer traps or b.1rriers such as
dia1om:u.-cous e:mh. Scatter 1>0isoned baits
among planLS.
Main tain high humidity. Under cover. introduce
the p redatory mite Phytostiull.is persimifis before a
heavy infesl:ilion develops. Plants may be sprayed
with an inscc1icidal soap or other pes1icide.
\Vater p l:uus regularly. improve air circulation
and lower 1cmpcraturc. Spray with a suitable
pesticide when signs or damage arc seen.
Good hygiene :1\·o ids providing sh elters for aduhs.
·water a pcuhogenic nematode (l!etcrorh,ibdiiis or
Std,iernrnw species) into 1hc soil or soil mix in
late summer before 1he grubs become too large.
\Vhcre damage is seen, lure worms to gather
under bits of wood. then destroy them. Regularly
cuhl\'ate and weed the soil. Pro1ec1 seedlings by
dusting seed rows with lnseclicide.
47
 ARDEN TREES
Wi.th their distinctive silhouettes and longevity, trees provide continuity and structure
in the garden. They are expensive to buy but not especially hard to propagate and,
once established, will give pleasure for generations to come.
T rees ,nay provide th e frame,vork or focal point
of a garden and 1nay link the garden with the
landscape beyond. They are woody perennials
\Vith a crown of branches, usually at the top of
a single stein or trunk, and include conifers, or
cone-bearing trees. Pahns and cycads are also
1nostly treelike in form . Va lued for their shape,
which provides year-round interest, 1nany trees
also offer seasonal displays of handsome foliage
and bark, showy flowers, and brilliant berries.
While so1ne are purely ornan1ental, other trees
also bear edible crops.
Since they are slow-growing compared \vith
herbaceous p lants, trees tend to be expensive, so
it may be \VOrth growing your own, especially if a
nu1nber of plants are needed for hedges, orchards,
woodland gardens, or screening. Propagating trees
also makes it possible LO obtain 1nore unusual
species, rep lace dec li ning trees, or determine the
size and shape of the tree.
Taking cuuings is comn1only used Lo increase
rnany orna1nen tal trees because it is fairly silnple
and provides new plan ts quite quickly. Trees
natura lly reproduce fron1 seeds, so this is an easy
way to raise species. Hybrids and cultivars rarely
co1ne true to type, but natural seedling variation
A UTUMN HARVEST
Tire horse chcstnur (Acsculus hippocas1anum)
ofrcn produces a prolific cmp offrnirs. Tlu·sc lire
besr gathered llS soon as they fall and, once the
spiny lwsl:s nrc nmwvctl, sown frrsJ1in pots or
in nurscl)• beds of fcrrile soil.
may yield a new variety. Seed-raised trees usually
take at least twice as long to reach llo,vering size
than do those that have been propagated by
vegetative techniques.
Grafting and budding are the principal
ways of propagating fruit trees, joining fruiting
cultivars \Vith specifically bred rootstocks to
restrict their growth or provide disease resistance.
The new plants also establish quickly. Much used
by co1nmercial gro,vers, grafting and budding are
often shrouded in n1ystery, but so1ne of the
techniques are \veil ,vithin the capabilities of
the avid gardener. Grafting and budding also
1nay be used for orna,nental trees that are
difficult or slow to propagate by other
,neans. Layering, ,vhether simple
layering that occurs naturally with
so,ne trees or air layering, is
another option when only
one or t,vo new plants
are required.
PAULOWNIA TOMENTOSA
1
LILACl~M'
This tree thrives in dinwrcs
with long. hm swumcrs cmd
is usually groh'H from seetls
or root cuuings. Clusters
offlowers Ill 1l1c shoot
tips apJ>Cllr before 1hc
leaves, follow«! by lt1rgc,
wo()(/y scedp"'ls t liat
s1,lir open when ripe to
relet1s(· jlnt scetls.
49
GARDEN TREES

TAKING CUTTINGS
aking cuuings is one of the most
T com mon propagation methods for
trees: it is usually fairly simple and
provides new planis relatively quickly,
although care is needed when selecting
cuuings material. Most hardwood
cuuings will yield a sapling read)' for
plan ting out in one year; other types
of culling need 10 be grown on for 2-3
years. A few species, such as some
conifers, take up to five years.
H ARDWOOD CUTTINGS
This is one of the easiest and least costly
ways of raising man>' deciduous trees;
it requires no special skill other than
knowi ng which trees arc suitable, when
10 take the cuuings, and how 10 provide
basic conditions for rooting and growth.
The time to take the cuuings is
during a tree's dormant period , usuall y
from mid- to late autumn and in late
winter, the best times being immed iately
after leaf-fall or just before bud break.
Look for healthy, vigo rous shoots,
avoiding weak or ver)' spindly growth
(see above) . In most cases, cut off each
shoot at the union of the one- and 1wo-
year-old wood (sec below) . \>Vith very
vigorous plants such
as poplars (Populus) or
willows (Salix) that root
readil)', take material from
well-ripened wood of the
current season's growth.
The length o r prepared
cuttings varies enormously:
they are com1nonly about Sin (20cm)
but may be as long as 6ft (2m) in s01ne
instances, as for certain willows . The
diameter also varies, depending on the
length of the shoot, from pencil
thickness to about 3in (8cm).
For plants that root easily, the simplest
way to root hardwood cuuings is in open
ground. For this purpose, it is best lo
use a patch that has been cultivated,
with a soil that is open and friable. You
can then easily insert the cullings into
the soil. If the soil is at all heavy, however,
insert the cullings in a slit trench , as
sho,vn below. The planting depth
depends on whether you arc raising
single- or multistemmed trees (see box,
bo1to111 lefr). Check each row after
winter because frost may have caused
the trench 10 open, in which case the
cuuings should be refirmed.
SELECTING HARDWOOD
CUTTING MATERlAL
Clioosr srrong. s1raighr srrms
with /iecdrliy bucls (left). Al'Oid
thtJsr tluu a1wear old, spindly.
or clamagccl ( for left), or tlim
ha\1('. sofr gn:tu ~,ow1I, (center).
For trees 1ha1 are slow to root , such
as l\1/erasequoia (dawn redwood) or
Laburr111111, o verwinter bundles of
cultings in sand (seej<lci11g p<lge). Each
bundle should have no more than ten
cuuings; otherwise, the ones in the
middle will dry out. Sand will allow the
cuuings 10 undergo a period of cold but
will protect them from wide Ouctuations
in temperature. Use sharp sand with
no soil in it so that the surface docs 1101
"cap over," or form a crust. Make sure it
is moist, and periodicall)• check
moisture levels.
Leave the cuuings in the sand until
just before bud break in early spring,
then line them out in a nursery bed o r
pot individually in containers. In the
following autumn, if the saplings are
large enough , plant them o ut in their
permanent positions. Othenvise, lift

FAST-ROOTING HARDWOOD CUTTINGS

---
•

111 autw1111, mallc a mu,ow Scfcc1ct wcll-ripcnecl shoot cu Rcmow· any lcan·s oml the SJ)(l(f ,he cuuings in ,he rrench
1
by
1rc11ch 6-IOi11 (15-25cm) deep
tlic spaclc
p11slii11g tl1c soil
i1110
2 least 12i11 (30cm) lo11g f n1111
rhr currcm Sf<1Stm~ gmwrh (hfrt' of
3 sof1 gl'<lwtl1from tlic lit> of n1d1
nwing. Trim rhc curring to (I lcugrh
4 abo111 ~-6in (/0-15cm ) apmt
ill the apprnprime cleptl, (sec box,
m,cl prcssi11g it sliglitly fonv<nd. "JiF. ,rec. Ficus mncricana). M<ilu- of 8-9in (20-2J cm). 111<1'1i11g <111 below). Fin11 tlic soil well, /crbd,
To improve drainage, Sl'rinJde s"mt thc cut so ihat it is flush with thf angled cut abovf the top bucl a11cl a tmcl wtHe,: S11ucc t1dtli1icmaf rows
shmJJ scmcl inw d1r uc11ch bouom. main srrm, 01 just above a butl. strtrigh1 cur bdow l11c borrom bud. 12- l 5i11 (J0-38cm ) cr1x11·1.

PLANTI NG DEPTHS

M ULTlSTEMMED S INGLE-STEMMED
O RNAMENTAL ORNAM ENTAL
AND FRUI T TREES TREES
Insert ead1 cuuing Cuttings shoulcl
with 1l1e lop one- be buried so that
third or 1-l ¼in the '°I' 1111,I of eacli
(2.5-Jcm) cutting sits j ust Aftn· se,•crtll months, the Lift rlic romc,1 curtings ciftcr
showing Cfbove tl1c
surjaff of tlie soil.
below 1hr s111face
of the soil.
5 cuuings should begin to root: 6 leafftdl in tmrunm, wrnpping
by the encl of rlic followi11//, gmwi11g rhc roors in plasric to prc,•c111
season. s1turly m·,, topgrnwll1 drying our. rrmisplwu 1he cuuinx~
sliould lim'r cln•dopcd. or po, them singly ro grow on .

50
 TAKING CUTT INGS

lhe cuui ngs and replanl lhem, s paced

12in (30cm) apan in rows 18in (45cm) SLOW-ROOT ING HARDWOOD CUTTI NGS O F TREES
apart, to grow on for another year.
Another opLion is lo root cutlings in
containers. Insert three lO five cuuings
per pol into rooting mediun1 (see p.34)
after dipping the bases in hormone
rooLing compound. Label, water, and
leave in a shelte red place, such as a cold
frame. They s hould root by spring; pol
lhem individually or in groups into
larger conlainers.

H EEL CUTTINGS
Cuttings from woody plants were laken
traditionally by pulling an appropriately
sized shool away fro1i1 the main s tem, for tree species 1hat do 1101 1vo1 easily, tie Insert the bundles into a sand box or bed
reLaining a small sliver of bark, or heel, 1 rhe cuttings (here of Meiasequoia) using 2 i11 11 sheltered place or cold frame over
al the base. The heel contains high garden rwinc iuw small bundles of up ro ten wi111cr. By spring. they slwul<I have rooted.
levels of growth hormones (auxins). currings. Di/! 11,c base of 11,c currings in" Lift the #,undies and insert tlie cuttings singly
These cuttings are sLill useful, cspcciall)' small dish of hormoue rooting powder or gel. i11 a prepared lfe11cl1 (sec racing page).
for plants Lhal have pith)' Slcms, such as
elder (Sarnbucus), or p lants lhat are old
or in less Lhan peak cond ition. They arc SEMI-RIPE CUTTI NGS OF TREES
nol so effective wilh broadleaved trees.
Heel cuuings may be taken from all
lypcs of wood, fro1n hard- to softwood.

S EMI-RIPE CUTTINGS
This technique is suitable for rooting
certain broadleaved evergreens, for
example Mag11oliC1 grcm<liflorc, , Pnmus
lusitanica, and hollies ( /lex), as wel l as
many conifers (sec p. 70). The best time
of )'Car is u suall)' late sU1nmer to earl)'
autumn, although cuttings ma)' be taken
in early summer or late aulumn .
Select malerial from lhe curren t RrmO\'l' cdl cxctpl ll1c
season's growth that has panly ripened 2 wp two lca\'eS, 1l1c11 cut
or hardened to take Slem-Lip cu11ings as Sdecr a hrahhy shoot from these I wo in half wid1 Cl
shown (rig/11). If the sem i-ripe shool is 1 the CW ' ll'tll SUISOJI s gmwth drcm, slwrp knife w n:duc.:
long enough, several cuttings may be 111111 is soft at rhe tip but firm moisrim_ , loss. To srimulmc."
taken; Lake the lower cutlings with the m rhr base (l,rre of a magnolin). roaring, wound 1l1t bast' of
basal cut just below a node and the top Using pnmns, c11t straiglrt abo,·t· du· stem by slicing off n
cut above a node. AIternativel)', take (I nodr w obwin a nming -f-6i11 J'/.i11 (Jon) sliverofba,/1
heel cuttings (see above). If the leaves (l0-15cm) in length. fmm one side.
are large, cu t the,n down. AfLer treating
them with hormone rooting compound,
insen the cuuings into pots, deep seed
tra)'s, or cell packs.
For the soil m ix , use a free-draining
medium such as a peat and bark
mixture or other soilless mix (see p.34).
Alternatively, use rockwool plugs or a
bench bed of rooting mcdiu1n in the
greenhouse. Keep the cuuings humid
and frost-free in a closed case or a cold
frame, or under plastic. Bollom heat of
64-70°F (1S-21°C) will aid rooting.
Periodically c heck the cuuings 10
ensure Lhat the medium is sufficient!)'
moist and the temperature is correct, as
well as removing an)' dead leaves, which
are potential sources of fungal infection. P111 c, smalf cm1owu of J1on11one rooring Fill Ji11 (8cm) pots will, a mixwrc of c111wl
Maintain high humidil)' by spraying the
cuuings before covering Lhem again.
3 powclc,· (o,· gel) inro s,wcn· ,wd ,Iii' rhc
wounded stem inro it
c1
Tt,,, the gt~11tly to
s1c111
4 I""'' />CIII mu/ fine bar/,. Mahe a /role of
3-4i11 (8-IOcm) in depth i11 cad, pot. h1sc11
RooLing usually occurs during autumn rcmov£· any c.!..\'CC:SS powder (see inset) . Discard encl, curri11gjusr deep enough for ii to be nblr
or winter; the cuu ings may then be ,my rcmt1ining roofing compound from rhc dish to sumd upriglu. Fi I'm the soil m·owul the s1cm.
poued individuall)' in spring. when aH r,1c currings ha"c been ,,rcl'fffcd. L,1bd tmd water the cuttings.

51
GARDEN TREES

SOFTWOOO CUTTINGS TAKING SOFTWOOD CUTTINGS

Although less commonly used than
hardwood or semi-ripe cuuings, this \\'c·c,r ~lo\'(·~
\\ lten 11.sing
technique is suitable for raising various chemirnls
(primarily deciduous) trees. including
some oma1nental cherries (Prunus) as
well as cenain maples (Acer). birches
(Betula), and elms (Ulm us). Softwood
cuuings arc usually taken in late spring
from the fast-growing lips of new shoots,
and they typically root very easily. The
shoots must be turgid, so the best time
to take cuuings (see right) is early in
the morning. They do dry out and will
rapidly, however, so it is vital 10 prepare
and insen them as quickly as possible
after taking them from the parent plant.
To save Lime, prepare the cells or
pots before taking the cuuings. Use a Remol'c 2-Jin (5-8cm) long, soft shoot li/>S Dip lite cuuings in a
free-draining rooting medium, such as
equa l parts fine bark or peat mixed with
1(liere of fletula
Cu, s1raighr
milis vw: jacqucrnontii).
across the of
union old and new
the
2 fungicidal sohuion. wul
dum dip tlii~lxm~ of ,he slems in honnone rooting
perlile or coarse sand. Firm the medium wood. Keep the cuuings in <1 closed plas1ic bag. compound. lnserr in cell 1md:s in equal pans
to just below the rim and water it. If Thn1 the bouoni 1wo le,wes from each slwo1. peat rrnd pcl'lite. Water (sec inset) rmcl l11bcl.
using plug trays of rock wool (sec p.35),
soak them beforehand. diverts growth hormones LO the base and GREENWOOD CUTTINGS
Take the cuttings by removing new, aids rooting. Place a t once in a closed These cuuings are taken when the stems
soft growth of the correct length al the case, plastic-film tent, or mist bench (see are slightly firmer and darker than for
junction of the new and o ld wood. Trim pp.38-44) to mini mize moisture loss, softwood cuttings. Take the cu11ings
the stub from the parent shoot to avoid wi th bouom heal of 64-75°F (l8-24°C). between late spring and midsummer,
dieback. Even a small loss of moisture Check the cu11ings regu larly, remove although cuuings in warm cl imates
at this stage will hinder rooting, so put any dead or diseased leaves, and spray ma)' root at other times of year. Prepare
the cuttings in a partially inflated plastic with fungicide once a week. Rooting them as shown (see below) and keep
bag (to minimize bruising) as you take should occur in 6-10 weeks. Feed the under mist or in a high-humidity tent.
them and seal, or immerse the cuuings cuuings regularly to ensure strong new Once rooted, feed the cuuings regularly
in water. 1f any cuuing is longer than topgrowth . Pot in the following spring during the growing season, then pot
4in (10cm), remove the growing tip; this and plant out after 2-3 years. them the following spring.

TAKING GREENWOO D CUTTINGS

To 1>re11are each cu11i11g, rrim Sof1wood l'em<n-ed
2 off the sofr wood 11t tl,c rip of
the s1woL, just above a node. Tcdw
from tip of s'1001

off the bottom leaf a11d wound rhe

base of rhe stem . A /ireparcd cutting
should be 3-~i11 (8- IOcm ) long.
with three nodes.

Lcugrr Jcm·c~ cul

i,i Jwlf to rt duct
moiswre loss _ _

early summer; cw across the union of old mut new

111
1 w"od to wlle cuttings of l0- l2in (25-JOcm) in length
from rhe current seasons growrh (here of Liquidambar).

Dip rhc base of

3 t<~ch curring in
l1onnone rooting
compound.
Fill II cell l",cl,
wir!, equrrl parts peot
and perlite. Insert each Slh•t•r <>J fNlrk,
cuuingjusr deep enough ro abou1 I in (2.5on)
stand u1>rigJu. \\1<Her rhem long. CUI awtly io
in well cmd label. .- - cncou,·«gr rooti11g

52
SOWING SEEDS
aising trees fro m seeds is generally FRUITS AND SEEDPODS
R straightforward and inexpensive and
is useful for producing large numbers
of plants, o r roo1s1ocks for subsequent
grafting. Seedlings often establish well
and are unlikely 10 carry viruses from
the parent plant. Seed-raised plants take
2-5 times as long as cuttings 10 auain
Oowering size, however, and may var)'
in appearance, hardiness, and growth. It
is impossible 10 predict the sex of new
plants (vital for species that have foul-
smelling fruits, such as Gin/igo biloba,
or in which only female plants have ~
fruits, for example //ex).
·rrecs develop diffcre111 fruiting
bodies, wliich protect unfcrrifiiecl
seeds m,d aid dis1iersal of ripe
seeds. Most 1recs lwvc jlcsliy frui1s
w tempt <mimals to em them, dry
scedhencls ro sc'1tter seeds on the
wi11cl. or Jiw'<l-sl,cllecl 1111rs ro stO/J STONE FRUl1"
animals from eating them. Cones Pt--:.1eh (Pnorn))
,
fJ
'lj
,lo 1101 enclose the seeds,
11111i/1e orlier seeclheacls.
1
PODS
- • LClburnum

Success with tree seeds depends ~

as much on the treatment of seeds
before sowing as on the sowing
method. Many seeds germinate more
successfully if sow11 as soon as the)'
ripen , but purchased seeds are adequate
if stored correctly. Some seeds, especially
those of 1he northern temperate regions,
must be treated 10 break their natural
dormanc)' before sowing.
COLLECTING AND CLEANING SEEDS
Both dry and neshy fruits may be picked
by hand (taking care 110 1 10 damage
the parent plant). Preparation depends
on the type of seeds. Those that ripen
in spring or sumn1cr, such as poplar
(Populus) and willow (Salix), require
liule cleaning other than teasing apart
1he scedhead.
Poos Spread out pods of trees such as
Cercis, Laburnum , or Robinia in a warm
room in a paper bag or with newspaper
over them. The pods will split open after
a few days and shed the seeds.
W1NG ED SEEDS The wings of seeds such
as of ash (Fraxinus) or maples (Acer )
may be left on the seeds or cut or rubbed
off for ease of handling.
NUTS Remove the outer husks from nu Ls
such as those of beech (Fagus), hazel
(Corylus), and chestnut (Casra11ea), but
preserve the shells.
CONE \VINGED SEED
Pinc (Pimo)
CATKINS Collec1 ca1kins from trees such
as alder (Ahllfs) while still green before
the)' ripen and keep in paper bags for a
week o r two unLil the)' disintegrate.
FLESHY FRUITS \.Vith large fruits such as
apples (Malus) and pears (Pyn,s), cut
open the fruits and remove the seeds.
Fulp smaller fruils and leave in warm
water for up 10 four days 10 separate out
the seeds (see below), which should sink
10 the bottom. Dish detergent added to
the wa1er ma)' assist separation. Once
the seeds are clean, pat them dry.
CONES Dry ri pc cones in a wan11 place
to release 1he seeds (see Conifers, p.71 ).
S TORING TREE SEEDS
IL is imponant 10 swre seeds correctly to
preserve their viability until you can sow
them. Remove damaged or shriveled
seeds before storing - 1he)' are liable to
CATKIN
Birch (Bc11,fa)
CAPSULE
Maple (Acer) Horse chcslnut (AtS(.ulu~)
be diseased. Tree seeds are usually
SLored at 37°F (3°C) in a refrigeraLor
(not a freezer). Most are refrigerated dry,
to avoid the risk of fungal disease or rot,
in sealed and labeled plastic bags. Seeds
from Oeshy [ruits are only surface-dried.
Large seeds, such as walnuts (Juglans)
and oaks (Quercus), and oily seeds, such
as magnolias, canno t take up water once
the)' dry out and so will not germ inate.
Store these seeds in a plastic bag of
moist vermiculite or sand or in a mix
of moist peat and sand (see below).
O VERCOMING SEED DORMANCY
In naLure, dormanC)' ensures that seeds
do no t genninate before the onset of
spring, but it can inhibit germ ination
even in good condiLions. There are
various wa)'s to overcome donnancy: the
first is scarification (co11ti1111ed on p.54).

EXTRACTING SEEDS FROM FLESHY FRUITS STORI NG TREE SEEDS SCARIFYING SEEDS

Seed bag to
keep scccls

P111 rhe frn its (here Sorbus) in
1 a sieve ,md hold under running
wme,: Squash them wid1 your
tlnunb until they arc! weJI mashed.
Put the fruit pulp in tl jc1r tmd
2 jiff wi1h water. Allow to setrle.
Droin the co111ents through a sieve.
Viable seeds should swy in the jm:
Cenain seeds must 1101 be allowed
ro thy out. Store mixed with moist
pccH and co,~rsc sand in a clear
pf<fstic bag In the r'cf,·igcrruor.
Scarify seeds with cm impermeable
coating to SfJeed genninmion.
Abrade part of tl,e seed com ro
allow moisture to get in .

53
GARDEN TREES
(Co11ri11uedf,·om p.53.) Tree seeds such as
Acacia and Robinia with very hard seed
coats must be abraded or scarified 10 lei
water into the seed. Use sandpaper (see
p.53) or a file, gently crack the seed coat
using a nutcracker, or nick it wi1h a sharp
knire. You can also care[ully burn a small
hole in the seed with a soldering iron.
Sorten hard seed coats by soaking
in hot (1101 boiling) water for up 10
48 hours, depending on 1he size o r the
seeds. Sow seeds directly arter soaking;
ir allowed 10 dry out again, they will die.
Some trees, ror example hawthorns
(C,·araegus), lindens (Tilia), and
mountain ashes (Sorbus), develop
germination inhibitors in the seeds as
they ripen. Gather seeds when 1hey
are mature but not rully ripe, berore
the inhibitors develop, to ensure good
germination. Clean and store the seeds
as usual and sow them in spring.
Other tree seeds have a physiological
(or embryo) dormancy, sensitive 10
certain levels or cold and heal. Such
SOWING TREE SEEDS IN CONTAINERS
flU a Jin (8cm) pot with seed soil mix, cmd
1 Jinn it gcttll) w abuut V.in (Jeni) below rhc
rim of 1l1e pol. Sow lmi:,·r st«ls (hot of Bc1ula)
singfy, spacing rhcm evenly o\•er tlie swface.
Bmade<,st•sow fine set·ds.
Keep 1empcm1e species 111 54-59°F
4 (I2- 15°C) cmd w,rrm•rcmpcrate cmd
1ropical species m 70' F (21'C). The seeds
slwuM germinate and the seedlings grow to
l-2in (2.5-5cm) in heigJ1r within 6-8 weclts.
54
seeds are treated by stratification, or
which there are two types.
COLD MOIST STRATIFICATION This is the
most common technique, especially for
hardy trees, and involves chilling seeds
10 mimic 1he passing of winter; they also
must be kept moist so that the seeds can
s1art 10 respire. Traditionally, seeds in
cold climates were sown in autumn to
overwinter in containers in a cold frame
or in an open seedbed. Germinati on
varied depending on local conditions,
with a low success rate following a mild
winier. Chilling seeds in a refrigerator al
34-41°F(l-5°C ), usually at 37°F (3°C),
has the advan1age that you can provide
a cold period a1 any time or year and
expect a more even germ ination.
To chill small numbers or seeds, soak
them in water for 48 hours, allow 10
drain, then refrigerate in a labeled and
sealed plastic bag for 4-20 weeks before
sowing. Twelve weeks is 1he average, but
it depends on the species (see A-Z of
Garden Trees, pp.74-91 ).
For large seeds, sieve seed soil mix over
2 1hr seeds until d1ey arc just CO\'ercd ro tl1cir
own depth with mix. Cover fitu: seeds will, ,,
very light ,lusting of mix or ti thin layer offine
grit or finc-grnde vcnniculirc.
Knocl, 1hc seedlings""' of their pot. The
5 soil mix should bre,,h up, malling it easier
,o 1e<1se out 1hc roots. Always hold the seedlings
by their leaves, since their roots and stems lire
very Jmgile mul <ffe casiJy damaged.
For large quantities, s1orc the seeds in a
p lastic bag filled with peat or a mixture
of equal parts peal and coarse sand or
venniculite. This should be 1noist, not
we1. Periodically turn the bag 10 circulate
air and avoid a buildup or warmth o r
carbon dioxide released by 1he seeds.
If the seeds genninate in 1he bag
prematurely, sow them at once.
\.VARM MOIST STRA'flrlCA'flON Some seeds,
such as ash (Fraxinus) o r Davidia, are
doubly dormant and genninate naturally
after 18 ,nonths, or in the second spring,
after ripening, with only a few seeds
germinating in the first spring. lf freshly
collected seeds arc exposed 10 a spell of
warmth to simulate summer ripening,
followed by a cold period, they should all
germinate during the first spring. Place
the seeds in a p lastic bag, as for cold
s1ra1ifica1ion, and keep them warm for
up 10 12 weeks a1 64-75°F (18-24°C),
then cold stratify them in the refrigerator.
Alterna1ively, sow the ripe seeds in
con1ainers, then keep 1hcm warm a1
Cover the soil mix with Cl ¼in (5mm) layer
3 of small g,·avel. Ltd,cl and wmc,· well. using
a fine-rosed watering am. Leflve die JJOl in a
shd1ercd place - 11s11e1lly in a colcl frr1111c, closed
case, (,r hcmcd g,ccnhouse.
Transplant cac/1 seedling individually in
6 a Jin (8c111) poi filled wi1h soillcss po11i11g
mL~. Finn gently flm1t11d the seeclfi11g, label,
and water: Grow ou in the same place as before.
Hllrc/cn 1he111 off graclually af1cr .J-'f weeks.
 SQ \1/ING SEEDS

SOWING LARGE SEE DS off an)' weed seedlings. Incorporating

well-rotted leaf mold at this stage also
helps; it usuall)' contains mycorrhizae,
soil-borne fungi ,hat help seedling
grow1h and improve soil structure.
Cultivate the bed to one spit (spade's
blade) deep. Raise the seedbed as shown
below, by boarding around the margins
or hilling up 1he soi l. This creates as
evcn-1ex1urcd and as well-drained a soil
structure as possible to aid germination.
\ After sawing. wmrr
Before sowing (in earl)' to midspring
or, in cold climates for seeds Lhat require
2 a11d label the 1101. a cold period, in mid- to la1e au1umn),
Place in a sl1cltered place' rake over 1hc soi l surface, remove any
Soh lw~c lfte seeds. 01 '1W!IC llwt l""'luct· such as ,i cold fr,m u._· or in large s tones, and tread even!)' over 1he
1 set!ttlings with fong wproms (hen· of oe1ll).
1ncli,•icluaUy in -lin ( IOnn ) clccp pots. P,t.S!I rt1d1
closed case uncle,· cover.
,1 bed to firm 1hc soil.
By using a d,•rp f'Ol for Man)' tree seeds are fair!)' large and
srt,I i11w 1mfim1rd. !l,>iJ·lmscd stfd mix. Cm·cr such seedlings. rhe taproo1 can be space-sown, either in drills (sec
lhc scf<I w ils own depth\\ ul, mon..~ 1111'( w ¼iH am develop wirhout a n) below) or in individual holes. Small
(5mm) b(lnw 1l1r pol I im. rcs1ric1io11 (sec inse1). seeds are sown in drills. Always sow
seeds at the correct depth : aiin to cover
the same 1empera1ure in a hea1ed closed trainers (because the)' dislike root the seeds b)' rough l)' 1wice 1heir own
case before exposing 1hem to a period of disturbance) should be planted in10 diameter. Large seeds should be sown at
win ter cold ou1doors. their final locations as soon as possible. least 2-3in (5-Sc,n ) deep.
Make drills using a draw hoc , 1he tip
S OWING TREE SEEDS IN CONTAINERS S OWING TREE SEEDS IN A SEEDBED of a stake, orb)' pressing a board into the
This is the mos, widely prac1iced means If there are no faci lities under cover or if soil. To reduce the risk of fungal attack,
of seed-raising because it allows more i1 is difficuh 10 provide full aftercare for sow small seeds 1hinl)', directly from the
conirol over environmental condi1ions seedlings, you may choose to sow direct packe1 or by taking a pinch of seeds and
and pests than when sowing direc1 outdoors. Pro1ec1 1hc site from wind , if running it along the drill. Cover the
outdoors and generally gives a higher possible , with a hedge o r artificial wind- seeds as shown. If necessary, 1hin the
success rate in raising heahh)' seedlings. break. The seedbed must be free of seedlings to 2in (5cm) apart. Transplant
There are many sui1able containers, weeds; prepare 1he soi l in the preceding i1110 a nursery bed after a year to grow
including standard pots, seed trays for spring and summer so that )'OU can hoe on, and keep them fed and well watered.
large numbers of seeds, and specialized
contai ners such as root-1rainers or deep SOVv' ING TREE SEE DS I A SEEDB ED
pots (see above) for 1aproo1ed trees such
as oaks (Qucrcus) and E11calyp1us.
In general, a free-draining, mildly
acidic, soillcss mix is used (see p.34).
For li me-hating trees such as Arbutus
menziesii, use an acidic seed soil mix.
Seeds that genninate slowly ( 12 months
or more) are best sown in a heavier, soil-
based seed mix. Sow the seeds as sho\vn
(see facing page). Usuall)' the seeds are
covered with fine grit or small grave l to
prevent "capping," or a crus1 forming
on the surface, and 10 avoid growth of
mosses or liverworts, but if gennina1ion
is like!)' 10 be very rapid, use
vermiculite instead.
Place the con tainers in a shehered
place a1 an appropriate temperature (see
facing page) . A night 1nini1num of S0°F
(10°C) is generall)' sufficient under
cover. For some tender species, however,
59-68°F ( 15-20°C) is preferable. Always
keep seeds for a1 leas, a )'Car if Ihe)' do
not germinate in Lhe first year - the)'
may come up during the second spring.
Once gcrmina1ion occurs, iransplant
the seedlings as soon as they are large
enough to handle b)' the leaves, then P1,:1,arr a raised <rcdbrtl. 4-8i11 (10-20cm) Cover 1l1c sttcls lig/11/y wi1l1 ,oil by clrnwi11g
re1urn 1hem 10 where the)' were before.
After hardening off 1hc seedlings (see
1 deep and Jf, (I 111) wick. Mal« cl rills 4-6in
( I 0-15cm ) c,pm l with a hm•. Space~sow d1r.
2 it over with llu· back of a ml:e. Rahe a ¼in
(2cm) deep layer of fine grmd over 1hr r,ui,c
p.45), pot them on or line 1he1n out in seeds 11/-Jin (3-8cm) OJ1llrr, l:cel'ing 011c 1ypc bed. Allow the seedlings 10 gn,w 0,1 for up to a
a nursery bed. Seedlings raised in roo1- of seed i11 ellcl1drill. Label cc,ch drill. year until thry an· rnuly to 1rcms11kmr.

55
GARDEN TREES
GRAFTING AN D BUDDIN G
rafting has acquired an undeserved
G mystique, probabl)' because it is
large!)' used by commercial growers, but
there is no reason for home gardeners
not to try it. Once you understand the
basic principles, and with a little practice
and confidence with specific techniques,
you should be able to graft successfully.
Grafling involves uni ting parts of
two separate plants to combine s01ne
df the benefits of each: the root system,
or rootstock, of one, and a portion of
stem from the plant to be propagated ,
known as the scion, which forms
the plant's topgrowth. Grafted plants,
unlike cuttings, have the advantage of
an already-formed root S)'Stem , so they
establish relatively quickly and are usual!)'
ready for planting out in 2- 3 )'Cars.
In some cases, the rootstock confers a
valuable quality such as disease resistance
o r restricted size (usefu l for fruit trees,
which o therwise grow too tall to harvest
easily). Certain trees, for example apples
(Malus) and fruiting and ornamental
cherries (Pnmus) , grow less well and
GROWING ROOTSTOC K$ BY STOOLI NG
Seit-er a hcal1/1y J-2-year-old swcl: pl<1111
1 (/,ere, applt-) wi11t 1,le111y of sf,ol}ls. Hill up
l hc bc~sr of ihe stems in stages from SJ>ring to
late summer: Each time, fi rm ligluly and wmc,.
\Vi1/1 a ltt111<l fo,·11. Ctll'cfully ,case 0111 1hr
3 soil f mm around the roots to expose the new
mols growing from rhe buses of 1/,c l,il/cd-up
sicms. Take ca,c ,wt to clcmwge ihe roms.
56
produce smaller crops when grown
on their own roots than when they
arc grafted. Stocks and scions must be
compatible, usual!)' of the same genus
and often derived from the same species.
OBTAINING ROOTSTOCK$ FOR GRAFTING
Good-qualit)' rootstocks are essential
10 produce good-quality trees. You may
be able 10 buy stocks, usual!)' fro,n
speciality nurseries, but it is beuer to
raise your own - you can then use as
many stocks as you need and can be
sure of them being the correct size. 1f
bu)'ing fruit stocks, try 10 obtain virus-
free certified stocks wherever possible,
and 1nake sure that )'OU obtain the
correct stock for the type and size of
tree you want to grow (see A-Z of
Garden Trees for details, pp. 74-9 J).
RootStoeks shou ld be well-rooted and
straight, of medium thickness ror the
plant and about I Sin (45cm) tall. Plant
them wh ile dormant in well-prepared
soil: th is should be free-draining,
enriched with well-rotted manure, and
rhrougliout the growing sc,,s011 , hcep
2 the soil aH>w1<l rl1e swcl: plant moist ro
e11cour(lgt rootingfrom the lower stems. In late
,mwmn, t an.:fulJy ralte away the soil mowul.
Remove rooted shoots from the stock 1>lanr.
4 Use sharp prwu.·rs w ma,ic" s1mighr cut
j us1(d,o,,e the neck of the 1,arr.nr />lanr . R e-CO\'Cr
1hr roois of 1hr plmu will, 2in (5cm) of soil.
free from perennial weeds. Add a general
slow-release fertilizer at a rate accord ing
10 the 1nanufacturer'S instructions.
Orna1nen tal stocks are usual!)' raised
from seeds, such as Norway maple (Acer
platanoides), bird cherry (Pnmus avium),
hawthorn (Crataegus monogyna) , black
locust (Robinia pseudocacacia), European
beech (Fagus sylvalica), and mountain
ash (Sorbus aucuparia). Fruit -tree stocks,
nowering crabapples, certain ornan1cn tal
plums, and hazels (Co,y lus ) are better
obtained by stooling (see below) or
trench layering (see facing page); these
are called clonal rootstocks because they
are identical 10 the parent.
R OOTSTOCKS FROM STOOLING
The principal technique in this form or
layering, shown below, involves hilling
up an easily rooted, usually 1wo-year-old
parent plant 10 stimulate rooting at the
base of the stems. The paren t plant is
cut back hard (see box, below) before
hilling up to obtain as many new shoots
as possible.
STOOLING A STOCK PLANT
up
Ifill
s1ems in ROOIC'd
' "~"x I
/
/
/
layC'rs
'' \
I I \
, I I
(
To ob1ai11 lois of young sltoo1s, cut bacl, 1hc
swcli plant to Jin (8cm) in late winter or
early spring. Begin hilling up (see s1ep I )
when tlie new shoors al'e 6in ( J5cm) long.
Dig a s1raigh1-hachetl 1rend1 in a nursery
5 bed "'"' line 0111 rhe rooted layers 9i11 (23cm)
deep c111d J2-18i11 (30-45c111) apart. Label mul
w<Her well. Grow o,r w use <~s motstoclls.
 GRAFT ING AN D BU DDING

TRENCH LAYE RING Cur off 11,e loyerecl

In the dormant sec,son. tJlant rhe parent

3 stems a, die blise of
the plant, C1u each srcm
1 stoclt m ,m ,mgfc ;,, a nursel)1 bed.
Tiu~next winter, dig a t rc11ch along
Pal'cnt pl!1111ed
<11 45' angle i,uo sec-lions. e<~ch will, {~
sideshoot and a developing
11,e row. Peg ct1cl1 shoot 10 Ilic roor sysrem. Discard die
1rc11cl1 bC1sc. Cover wi1l1 frioblt rcnwimkr of the stem.
soil. Hill up new siclcshoois iu Line out die rooted layers
stages as they g,m~ over to grow 0 11. as for stooling
Sl'ring and SUUUJICJ: (sec facing page).
·'. 1·· \ ·I ''
,- ,• , : ,,;
'. ;.
• ·• i

f.
.'
.·,......
. ..
.
'·•. '
D1srnnf rc>mncuus
of old ,1,·111~
:., ·; .
,. ' The followi11g wi11te1;
· • l • , t • \•I
1 , ~ l ,; 1' i . \
. --~
. i\ l<·\ · 1 \ \\ · \', \_,.'•
\ ' ' .,
. · . · · \\ · ;··· .· · ,·
\'
' '\:\ \ .' .\. . • ·.,
.\ \.
.· 2 C<ll'efully remove 1/,e
hilled-up soi/ to reveal rite
adve111i1ious roots a1111c bosc
, !'<:-- tffcdlh) llt'\\ roots
Slwlloh' ,,.end1. 2in Shools JJin11ed f,om ~iclf':,hoo1
(5cm) ckrp in JJosWon of encl, sidesltm!I, or laye,:

Once rooted, these shoots, or layers,
may be cut off the parent and lined out
in a trench 10 grow on (see step 5, faci ng
page), read y for subsequent grafting. It
is importan t 10 plant the layers quite
deeply in the trench so that the young
roo1s1ocks prod uce shoots that are as
straight as possible as well as have good
root systems. Firm well after plan ting. If
growing a large nu,nber of stocks, space
the rows 3ft (90cm) apart and o rien t
them no rth Lo south to minimize shade.
After planting, ligh tly prune any
weak growth and remove any sideshoots
below about 12in (30c1n ) Oush with the
stem, in order LO leave a clean stem for
budd ing and grafting (see pp.58-63).
During summer, rub ou t any s ideshoots
that appear below abou t l 2i n (30cm) .
The )'Oung stocks must make active
growth for budding and grafting 10
succeed, so good irrigation is important;
the most effective and econo1nical
method is 10 lay a d rip line or a seep
hose (see /J· 44) alo ng each row of stocks.
ROOTSTOCK$ FROM TRENCH LAYERING
This method (also known as "e1iola1ion"
layering) is used fo r fruit trees incl uding
apples (f.1tilus) , pears (Pyrus) , cherries
and peaches (Pnmus) , walnuts (/ugkms),
mulberries (Morus), and quinces
{Cydo11 ia obfo11ga) . The technique works
on the principle 1ha1 shoots produce
roots more easily when they are pale and
drawn (etiolaicd). Two-year-old parent
plants are plan ted al an angle (see above)
in aulUJnn ; they should be spaced in
rows 5ft (1.5111) apan at 2ft (60cm)
intervals 10 allow room for hilli ng up.
In the follo"~ng late winter, make a
shallow trench alo ng the row of plants,
then peg down the young shoots, using
wooden pegs or staples o r heavy wire,
into the bouom of the trench. Cut back
weak sideshoots, but leave stro ng o nes
unpn,ned or just lig htly ti p them back.
All the sideshoots must be pegged down
Oat o r removed entirely. Fill in the
trench with friable so il o r compost.
As new sideshoo1s push through the
soil in spring, they bec01ne etiolated.
Once the)' appear, hill up the shoots
wit h another l in (2.5cm) layer of soil;
use fresh soil or compost to reduce the
risk of disease. Repeal this process twice
or three times more in the early pan of
the growing season, and as needed
th roughout the season, until the plants
are hilled up 10 a heigh t of 6-8in
(l5-20cm). Take care to keep the soil
moist during this time to encourage the
shoots 10 root into the soi l.
In the following late winter, uncover
and sever rooted s hoots (see above) .
Select new shoots near the base of the
plan1. Repeat the process as requ ired.
GRAFTING MULTIPLE SCIONS
In some cases, you may want to graft more
than one scion onlo a swck. For frui1 trees,
crea1h,g a muhiple tree using scions frorn
two or three different c uhivars provides a
choice of fruit on a single tree (for example,
bo1h cooking and eating apples, or peaches
1h,r is bei,•g I been whip-and-tonglfc
Jon-trnine<f
on stokfs
M ULTIPLE TREE Fruit-ri~e roots1oclls ca11
have scions from rwo o,· more relared cuhivars
grafted 01110 them. Here, cultivars of"
11cctari11e (left-lw11d side) a11d O p,!acl, (right-
ha11d side) are budded 011to a Pru nus srocli.
PEST AND DISEASE CONTROL
In general, rootstocks are susceptible to
the same pe,sts and diseases as the scion
cultivars, although some have a degree
of resistance - for exam ple, one of the
main stocks for grafting citrus trees,
the Japanese biuer o range (Poncin,s
trifoliata), resists phytophthora root
disease. It is vital 10 keep stocks well fed
and watered to increase their resistance
and 10 control any problems, ensuring
active growth of the stock and reducing
the risk of infection to the scion cultivar.
Apple and quince stocks are usually
susceptible LO apple powdery mildew,
particu larly if they are not well watered.
Check for and control aphids, especially
on sto ne-fruit stocks, because the insects
transmit virus diseases.
and nec1arines. as below) or may be done 10
aid cross-fcrtiliza1ion. For ornamental trees.
using muhiplc scions helps crea1e a more
balanced crown. h is especially valuable for
a weeping tree, using seions of natural1y
pendent forms g rafted 01110 a tall stem.
TOP- WORKING Two
scions of Salix caprea
'Kilnwrnocll' lwve
grafted (sec inse1 and
p.59) 01110 a roorstocl1
ofS. x s,ipularis
to produce (i more
balanced canopy than
would be achieved
will, only one scion.

57
GARD EN TR EES

SPLlCED SIDE GRAFTING

Stod: (UI Gnn,th \'isiblt"
Anglnl c ut nt fd 3--lin J,om lnuh _ ·
toJ> of sd<m (8- IOcm)

Tc1p f ((Ill IIQh

For rhf scions. gmhcr strong. To grcift, mahe Cl short. ,lown · Remove die sliver of wood.
1 onc·ytcff·Old stems mul
trim cnch one down to 6-1Oin
2 ward nidz aboul 1in (2.5cm) 3 Mnl1c 1hc fi nal c111 by cull ing
hr ,tmol<rd

( 15-25cm). c1111 ingjus1 cd,ove "
bucl ,,,. /Xlir c,j bucls. Ref1igera1c in
" pl<1s1ic bag 11n1il l'eculy to gl'llf t.
be/(}lv tire top of each stock. Then.
stt,rting nea r die top of rhc stoclz.
maize a sloping, dowmwmt cut '"
meet the inner point of rhe first cur.
sir<1igl1t up Jrnm the inner corner
'
of the fi rst cur. This cremes n Jim-
sided srem (sec insc,) wirh a
"sho11l,tc1·" m 1hr base.

To prepare the scion. mal:e I"""

lnn11ec/ic,1ely fi r rhe of the To prevent 1hc g,·aft fm m A successful grnft sl1011ld '·1nt1c"
4I i11slwllow, sloping cut abow
(I

(2.5cm) long clown w the base.

Then malte a shorr, angled cut m
the bC1se of the scion from the
opposite sicle (see inset).
5 scion imo rhc cut in die swdz
(sec insc,). so duH the a unbiums
meet. Bind rhc grnj r with some
grnft ing wpe (or raffia) until i1
is co111ple1cly ,o,.,,.,cl,
6 losing moisture and faili ng,
brnsh a foyer of wo1111d sealant
or grnfl ing wax over ,,II d1r
rxurnal £111 surj ,,ces 0 11 b<>tJ1
du~srod: and rhe scion.
7 within n fc:w wct.."hs. when «he
buds of d,e scion will show signs
of g,owth. If any suckers appear 0 11
lhe. stock. remove rhf 111. or 1l1ey will
divfri growrl1 ""'''Y from the scion.

G RAFTING TECHNIQUES
The principles of grafting are largely the
same, regard less or method, but differen t
techniques are used according 10 the
plant being grafted and the relative sizes
of rootstock and scion (for derails of
specific plants, see A-Z of Garden Trees,
pp.74-91) . Most grafting is done in late
winter 10 early spring or in 1nid- 10 late
summer. Ornamentals are often grafted
onto con tainerized stocks under cover
(bench grafting) where it is easier 10
control conditions, whereas fruit 1rees
are usuall)' budded or grafted outdoors
(field budding or grafting) onto stocks
or trees in open ground.
For a graft 10 succeed , ii is vital that
1he cambiu1ns (1hin regenerative layers
just below the bark) or s1ock and scion
are in close con1ac1 and that the graft
does not dry ou1 or become infected
before it "takes" and calluses. The cuts
therefore must be as precise as possible:
practice first on willow steins. Make one
graft at a time; use a clean , sharp knife;
and work as quickl)' as possible to
prevent the cuts from drying out. Avoid
touching the cu1 surfaces, and ensure the
cantbiums align before sealing the graft.
In wann, humid climates, scions ma)'
be 1aken up 10 I 2in (30cm) in length;
1hey will take and mature ,nore quickly.
SPLICED SIDE GRAFTING
Th is is usuall)' carried out just before
bud break in la1e winter or early spring
and is useful if the stock is thicker than
the scion. Two-year-old, seed-raised
stocks are mos1 often used; it is essential
that they have straight stems and a good
root S)'Slem in an 3-4in (8-IOcm) po1.
A potbound plant cannot support a graft.
Bring the stocks into a cool greenhouse
with a nighttinte ,ninimum of 45- 50°F
(7- 10°C) 2-3 weeks before grafting.
Keep on the dry side to avoid excessive
sap flow, which hinders union of a graft.
Collec1 scions from the tree to be
propagated, choosing healt h)', vigorous,
one-year-old shoots. Remove them by
culling into the twO•)'ear-old wood to
retain the union between new and old
wood (scions graft more successfull y if
1he)' have older wood at the base). Keep
the scions fresh in a plastic bag in a
refrigera1or until )'OU are read)' to graft.
Head back the stock to 3-4in
(8-lOcm) above the base; cut as shown
above. Take a scion , trim the base at the
union of the new and old wood, then
remove the top buds so that the scion is
6-lOin (I 5- 25cm) long. Cut the base of
the scion 10 match the cut on the stock,
ensuring tha1 a dormant bud is retained
opposi te the cul. Position the base of the
scion in the cut on the stock and secure
with grafting tape or raffia. Seal any
exposed cut surfaces and label the plant.
W HIP GRAFTING
This is used if the s1ock and scion are
exactly the same diameter, as for spliced
s ide grafting, but with a simpler cul.
Th is slan1ing, downward cu1 , l- 2in
( 2.5- Sc,n) long, starts at one side of the
top of the stock and ends on the opposite
side of the stem. Cut the scion 10 match
and proceed as for spliced side grafting.
A PICAL-WEDGE GRAFTING
This is simi lar 10 spliced side grafting,
but the scions are on l)' 6in ( 15cm) long.
Cut down into 1he siock across the
center 10 a depth of l-2in (2.5-5cm) .
Trim the base of the scion into a V-shape,
making a 2in (5cm) slanting cut on
each side. Push the base of the scion
into the stock. The top, or "church
window," of both cuts on the scion
should be visible above the s1ock. Trea1
thereafter as for spliced side graf1ing.
S PLICED SIDE-VENEER GRAFTING
\iVith trees 1hat are difficul1 to unite
with a stock or have thin bark, such
as Japanese maples (Acer), 1he s1ock
is headed back only once the graft has

58
 GRAFTING AND BUDDING

taken. Conifers are also grafted in this
way. This graft is done just before bud
break or in mid- to late summer. If the
latter, collect scions early in the ,norning
from ripe wood of the cu rrent season's
growth, cutting into old wood as before.
Prepare the scion otherwise as for a
spliced side graft. Trim off leaves from
the bottom 6in (15cm) of the stock,
then graft as for conifers (see p. 73).
Once the graft has taken , the top of
the stock above the union is gradually
headed back. How quickly you do this
depends on the plant being grafted (see
A-Z of Garden Trees, pp.74-9/). In the
first 12 months after grafting. the stock
is used as a support for the scion, which
is loosely tied to it. By the second spring
after grafting, the stock should have
been headed back completely.
C ARING FOR BENCH-GRAFTED PLANTS
For graflS carried out in late winter
or early spring, in cold climates, line
out the planlS on the bench in a cool
greenhouse with a nighttime minimum
of50°F (l0°C). If possible, apply bottom
heat of 59-64°F (15-18°C) to encourage
the roolStock into growth before the
scion . Ahernatively, place the grafts in
a hot pipe to encourage then1 to callus
(see p. 109). Remove any suckers as soon
as they appear on the rootstock. Pot the
plants in late spring or early summer.
In warm climates or with summer-
grafted plants that ma)' lose moisture
through their leaves, keep them in high
humidity, in a closed case or plastic-film
tent, at a nighttime minimum of 59°F
(\ 5°C). Each day, check for fungal
disease and mist-spray to keep up the
hu1nidity. Keep the roolStocks on the
dry side until callusing of the graft and
shoot growth is evident, then wean the
planlS off the humidity 6-8 weeks later.
Keep them cool but frost-free for the
first winter, then pot on in spring.
W HIP-AND-TONGUE GRAFTING
This is a very com1non method of field
grafting, widely used for fruit trees and
for some ornamentals, where the larger
root system of the roolStock resullS in
a superior tree. It may also be used on
planlS where budding (see pp.60-62) has
failed: the plant is grafted in spring
following the attempted budding 10
obtain a tree in the same length of time.
This graft is 1nost suitable when stock
and scion are of a similar diameter, not
more than lin (2.5cm), for a neat union.
Use established rootStocks (usually
planted at least 12 ,nonths in advance).
Gather scions, as sho,vn below, of
roughly pencil thickness from dormant
trees, when the growth hormones are
concentrated at the buds. Heel them in
(see below) or keep in a dry plastic bag
in a refrigerator. In early spring, prepare
the stocks and scions with n1atching
cuts, then lh together. If the cut on the
stock is much wider than that on the
scion, place the scion off center so there
is good ca mbial contact on at least one
side. If the cut is large, cover it, as well
as the "church window" on the scion ,
with grafting wax to preven t moisture
loss and to keep water from entering the
graft, which may make it fail. The graft
should callus after six weeks or so.
One or all three buds on the scion
should grow out. Choose one 10 grow
on to form the tree (usually the topmost
one); you will probably need to tie it to
a stake to ensure that it grows straight.
Cut back any others once they have
three or four leaves. Remove any side-
shoots from below the graft union once
they are 3-4in (8-lOcm) long (they are
useful to feed the stock until then).

WHIP-AND-TONGUE GRAFTING

Sdccr /1calrl1y. vigomus
1 hmtlwood sh()ots of the previous
seasonSgrowthfrnm thcscio11 trre
in larc winter. Use pruners to
wk, lc11g1hs of about 9i11 (23cm),
cuui11g obliquely jus1 above a bud.
Mal,c bu11clles ofJive or six
2 scfons. Prq1,1rc a shchen:d.
Jrce.. drnining sile mid heel them in,
leal'i11g 2-3i11 (5-8cm) abol'r rhc
soil s111facc. This will keep rl1c111
moist but dornumt until grafting.
Prcpar<· each swcl1 jusi before
3 bud brelllt in e,u·ly SJJring. Cut
off rhc rop. abo111 6-12i11 (15-.JOcm)
abol'e gro1111d lel'el. 1ii111 off a11y
sidcshoors, Mal1e a 1½in (3.5cm)
upwmrl-sloping cut on one side.
Malie a shallow incision, abou1
4 ¾in (5mm) deep. <1pproximatcl)I
o,1c-rhhd of 11,e way down rite
exposed cwnbium layer of the stock.
This forms a w11guc (see inse1) ro
linll iuro a similar Ont 011 1l1e scion.

Uf1 1hc scion. CUI off a11y sof,
5 gmwd1CH the lip. J;•;,u to ll1rte
or four buds. Choose a bud I ½i11
(3.5cm) from rhr base; removr a
slice of wood on die op1,osite sfrte,
cu11i11gfro111 1he bud w rhe base.
Mmch rhe w11guc on rhe swck
6 by mahing a similar slit into
die cwnbium layer 011 tht sdm1
(see inset). Take care Hot to touch
<md co,u,m1imHe any of rhc cut
surfaces with your lumds.
Fit rite tongue of the scion inro
7 11,ar 011 1hc siocll (wp inse1).
Use 1hc arches of llie cambium
layer (see bollom inse1) IO guide
you tmd adjust the scion until the
cambiums fi t weU together.
\Vhen rlu: two cambium ktyers
8 are close contact,
in
scion a11d s10chfin11ly
bind the
10ge1hcr
wirh grafting l<lpc or raffia. RcmO\'C
the tape when ,, a 1llus forms
,..-o,111tl 1he graf1 u11io11 (sec insc1).

59
GARDEN T REES
CHIP-BUDDING: PREPARING Tl-IE SCION
In midsummer. select a vigorous, ripe11ed
1 sl1001 (here of apple) of 11,c current seasons
woocl. l'lie shoot, or buds1id1, sl1oulcl be of
,,cncif thickness and lu1vc well-cleveloped bucls.
Sclecl 1hc firs1 bud al 1hc bt1se of 1he
3 b11ds1irk Cw into die stem about ¼in (2cm)
below rhe bud 10 a dtpth of ¼in (5111111), t111gli11g
1he l111ifc blade daw11wt1rd ell an m,gle of 30°.
BUDDING TREES
Budding, also known as bud-grafting,
emplO)'S similar principles 10 grafting
(see p.58) , except that the scion consists
of a single growth bud rather than a
length of stem. There are two ma in
techniques: chip-budding (see above)
and T-budding, or shield budding (see
p.62). Both arc extensively used by
commercial g rowers, especiall)• for fruit
trees, but they are also well within the
capabilities of the avid gardener. Any
tree that may be whip-and-tongue
grafted (see p.59) may be budded (see
also A-Z of Garden Trees, pp.74-91).
C HIP- BUDDING FRUIT TREES
This is the most successful technique
for grafting fruit trees. Although a very
old method, it has only in recent years
become widely used. lt has an advantage
over T-budding in that it can be carried
out over a longer period or the year,
although it is usually done between
midsummer and early au1u1nn.
For best results, use healthy, virus-
free rootStocks and virus-free scion
wood if possible (usually available for
60
Use a clean, shmp knife to 1ri111 off all tl1c
2 Iea,•cs from the buclsrid:. fcoving a ¾in
(3-4111111) stub of each leaf s1<1/11 (1,c1iole).
Remol'e 1he sof1 tit> from the rop of the shoot.
Mal:c another incision abow J½in (4cm)
4 above rhc first. Slice downward behind ,he
bud toward the firs1 cu1. Tlie bud cl1ip should
1J1en come aw<1y from the budstich (sec inset).
only a few cuhivars that are mainly
grown commercially). For the scion
material, or budsticks, select pencil-
thick shoots o r well-ripened new
growth where the base of the shoot is
starting to turn brown and wood)'· ll is
best 10 take shooLs from the periph ery
of Lhe tree, usually on the sunny side.
Avoid weak, g reen, etiolated shoots.
The shootS must not dry out, so place
them in a bucket of water im1nedia1ely.
Prepare a budstick by removing the
leaf blades, as shown above, to leave
short leaf stalks (pe1ioles). Also remove
the stipules (leani ke structures at the
bases of leaf stalks) to minimize any
water loss, and any immature, unripe
growth toward 1he Lip of Lhe shoot.
If budding a large nu1nber of plantS
and preparing several budsticks, keep
them wrapped in a damp cloLh until
ready to use, and graft one bud at
a time. Work from the base of Lhe
budstick to select Lhe first bud. Avoid
any large, prominent buds 1ha1 may
be fruit buds. With stone fruits such
as cherr ies or peaches, check that the
buds are small , pointed leaf buds, not
ORNAMENTAL TREES
-
''
For co11tai11er-grow11 ornamental trees. when
remo,,ing the leaves from the buds1id, (here
of a 111<1g11olia), c111 1hrough each lecif stalk IO
leave a Y-1in (2-2.Scm) s111b. RcmOl'C each
butl cl1ip as shown i11 SICJIS J-5, below.
I
FruiHn·e
bud chip
The l,ud chip (see orna111e11wl bud cl1ip.
5 inset) consists of a <lonn,1111 bud, uimmr.d
lc1if s1t1ll1, and slice of wootl. Holding 1hr bud
d1ip by rhc leaf swll1, pu1 i1 in "pf,,stic bt1g.
large, round fruit buds. Holding the
budstick firmly, make a cu t below the
bud al an angle of about 30° (see above).
Make l,lnother incision above the first
and slice downward behind the bud
toward the first incision. Remove the
bud chip, holding it ca refully by the leaf
s1alk so as noL to Louch and con taminate
the exposed cambium layer.
Prepare each rootstock by removi ng
sideshoots and leaves from the lower
main stem (see facing page). Select an
area of clean, smooth stem at a height
or 6-12in ( 15-30cm) above g round level
(preferably on the shady side o r the
stock). Remove a piece of wood from
the s tock. Make the first cut just above a
node 10 prevent the knife from slipping,
then tailor 1he cut as closely to the s ize
and shape of the bud chip as possible 10
ensure a close match of the cambiums.
Position the bud ch ip on the stock,
making sure that the cambiums meet;
place it off center if necessary LO ensure
good cambia l contaCL on at least one
side. Bind the bud chip 10 the stock wi th
grafting tape or l in (2.5c1n) budding
tape. Tuck in one end of the tape below
 GRAFTING AND BUDDING

the bud, then bind around and over
the bud to avoid the wind drying it (or
around the bud , only if it is very large).
Once the bud unites with the stock,
you should notice a callus forming
around the edges. If the bud has taken
successfu lly, the leaf stalk will look
plump and healthy and should drop
off at or before leaf fall; if so, you may
then remove the tape. lf the bud has not
taken, however, the leaf stalk will wither
and turn brown and will not fall off. Ir
the bud fails, leave the stock unti l the
following earl)• spring, cut back the
stock to below the failed bud , and whip-
and-tongue graft it instead (see p.59) .
CARE OF CHIP- BUDDED FRUIT TREES
In the following late winter or early
spri ng, when the buds of the rootstock
start into growth, cul back the stock to
just above the bud , (see below).
As the bud shoot develops and grows
out, shooLS should also grow out from
the stock below the bud. Remove these
when they are about 3-4in (S-lOcm)
long and the bud shoot is growing
strongly (before this they are needed
to feed the stock). lf the bud shoot
does not grow straight, tie it to a stake
to support it, but leave it unsupported
otherwise. Any Oowers produced by the
bud should be removed, so that all the
nutrients go into the developing shoot.
During the following autumn, the tree
should be ready to plant out in its final
posi tion or, if required, transplanted for
funher training into a nursery bed.
CHIP- BUDDING ORNAMENTAL TREES
Some ornamental trees, including crab-
apples (M,llus), hawthorns (Crataegus),
labun111111, magnolias, and Sorbus, as
well as ornamental cherries (Prunus)
and pears (Pyn,s), may be propagated
successfully by chip-budding. For those
that arc field-budded, the procedures are
identical to those used for fruit trees.
Some ornamental trees (see A-Z of
Garden Trees, pp. 74-91) may be budded
in a cool greenhouse using contai ner-
grown stocks. The technique is similar
to field-budding and is carried out in
mid- to late summer. The budsticks
are prepared in a s lightly different way,
however (see box.facing page); budding
is carried out at about 2in (5cm) above
the base or the stem. The bud and leaf
stalk are also left exposed (see box,
below) because they do not need to be
covered with grafting tape 10 stop them
from dr)•ing out, as in field budding.
In 10-14 days, the leaf stalk should
fall off if the bud has taken successfully.
Leave the grafting tape in place until
the bud is growing strongly, then
cut back the stock 10 just above the
developing bud to channel energy into
the bud. By the end of autumn , some
shoot growth should be evident. Keep
the plants frost-free over the winter. Pot
the,n on in spring and cu t back again
to pro,note bushy growth. The budded
trees should be ready to plant in their
permanent positions in 6-12 months.

CHIP-BU DDI NG : UN lTlNG THE SCION AND STOCK

ORNAMENTAL
TREES

Tree one ycm

To prcp<1rc rhe ,oorstodl, Select (111 crrca of clrn11, cif1er chip··
1 stand asuitle tlte plmH.
Remol'r all the sideshoots and
2 smooth stem. MaJ,c a
shallow <Ill jus1 abo"e a 11ode.
PREPARING THE STOCK
Pre1,are a conrainer•grown
budding
(mmdrn 11c.·c) - -::

lem'csfmm the bouom l2in Rt'mOvt c~ sliver of barll to ,·001s1ock by l'e111ovi11g all
(30cm) of 11,e '"""· usi11g a n:veal the cambium (see inscl) the lt!<wes from the bottom
clea11. slwl'p l111ifc. and fcwvc a Iii' ar rhe base. JO-J2i11 (25-30cm) of the
stem, using a sharp lmife.

BINDING THE BUD CHIP

Place the bud chip i11
3 position 0 11 die stocl: (see
inse1). If the cut on ihe swell
is wider rlum rhc bud chip.
place the chip 10 011e side so
that the cambium layers meet.
8i11d tl1e bud chip 10 the
4 swcl, using grnf1i11g tape.
Bind <~round and over the bud.
Ca,.efully remove the wpe 011cc
die bud chip unites wirh chc
swcl, (usually i11 6-8 weel,s).
JJi11d the bud cliip secul'ely
IO tlie stock, but leave both
1he bud and the leaf s1alh
exposed. The lccrf stall< will
drop off i11 10-14 days if
,he bud talies.
PRUNING A CHIP-BUDDED TREE
In the fo llowing late winter or early spring,
r-cmovc 111c wp of the stock. Use pruners w cw
j u5t above tlte grafted bud, using w1 tmgktl cul
(see inset). D11ring tl1e spring and summe,; a
shoo1 fl'OIII 1he graflf<I bud will develop (above).

61
GARDEN TREE S
T-BUDDING TREES
Take a 1ip<'11rd shoot from current
1 sellS<mS growth on the scion plam
,mrl s1ri/J off 1/te leaves. Cw a l1ealtl1y bud f rom
die scion, wirl1 a strip of b,irl: extending rougl1ly
Iin (2.5cm) above anti below the bud. Remove
tli< slivu of wood bel1i111I the bar/1.
T-BUDDING TREES
This is the most widely used technique
worldwide for grafting fruit trees, as well
as for some ornamentals, for example
magnolias, and may also be used to create
a standard tree. Although it is effective,
its popularity may soon be overtaken
by chip-budding (which has proved to
be easier and more successful and is
now more widely practiced , see p.60).
Its name derives from the T-shaped cut
that is made o n the rootstock into which
the bud is inserted. It is also known as
shield budding because the bud is taken
with a piece of bark, like a small shield.
The principal drawback of T-budding
is that it can be carried out only when
the bark of the stock lifts easily away
from the wood, usually in summer.
Drought impedes this, so in dry weather
prepare the stocks by keeping them
well watered for up lO two weeks befo re
T-budding. The T-bud is more fragile
than a chip bud because the wood is
not retained. ln addition , there is a
greater risk of infection by airborne
fungal diseases, particular!)' apple
canker, which can be inoculated below
the bark on the bud shield.
Ho wever, T-budding is a well-proven
technique, and some people find it easier
than chip-budding. (See A-Z of Garden
Trees, pp. 74-91, for suitable trees.)
As with chip-budding and whip-and-
tonguc grafting (see p.59), use healthy,
virus-free rootstocks whenever possible
and , if available, virus-free scion wood.
As for chip-budding, the stocks should
be at least two years old and plan ted out
in the autumn before T-budding.
PREPARING THE STOCK AND SCION
Collect the scion material from the plant
)'OU wish lO propagate in the san1e way
as for chip-budding (see p.60), selecting
ripened shoots from the current season's
growth . The preparation of the budstick
is slightly different, however. Strip off
the leaves, but leave a fairly long leaf
62
About 6-12i11 ( 15-JOcm) above gl'0111ul
2 level, nwhc ,~ T~sha,,ttl cur in die btU'J~ of
1l1c s1ocl1. \Viti , the reverse blade of r/1< lmifc,
carefully peel bacl1 rll£' fl"ps of bal'k 10 expose
11,c pith. The bark sl,oultl lift away smoothly
if 1hr 1ahniqur is w be sucCfssful.
stalk (petiole) of about 1/.-½in (5-LOmm)
lo act as a handle. It is best to use a
specialized budding knife because it
has a flattened part on the reverse of the
blade or the handle designed specifically
for lifting the bark on the rootstock.
Hold the budstick by the top end and
select the first good bud. Insert the knife
1/.-lin (2-2.5cm) belo w the bud . Make a
shallow cut beneath the bud toward the
top of the budstick, then lift the blade of
the knife to remove the bud with a "tail"
(see above). Keep buds clean and moist
in a dish of water or wrapped in a damp
cloth while )'OU quickly prepare the
rOOlSlOCks.
Al a height of 6--12in ( 15-30cm) from
the ground, make a T-shaped cut into
the bark of the stock. The top cut needs
to be o nly about ½in ( Lem) across, wh ile
PRUNING A FRUIT TREE FOR RIND GRAFTING
Brm1,hr.~ I() ,nnO\'f'
In spri,ag, head back most of du: 11wi11
branches of the sroch tree to within 24-JOin
(60-75cm) of the main bra11cl1forl1. L£avc
one or two smaller branches to <"l
as sa11 risers.
Hold the bud by its leaf swll, and cal'efully
3 slide it in behind the fl"ps of bcll'li 011 the
stock 1hm aw<1y ,my CXJJoscd .. raw· so 1hm it
is fe\'d with che Jio, iz:onral cur on rhe swch.
Cui lmcl1 the leaf stall,. Bind the c111ire
burl with clear plastic grafling tape.
the vertical , downward cut should be
1-l½in (2.5-'lcm) long. Press with the
knife firmly to cut through the bark, but
take care not to score 100 deeply and cut
into the pith. Using the spatula, lift the
two bark flaps (see above) .
Hold the bud by its leaf stalk and
gently insert il into the T-cut on the
stock, sliding it down between the
bark and the pith beneath so that il is
well below the horizontal cut. Do not
push in the bud 100 hard, or it may be
damaged. Sever the remaining tail of the
bud by cutting into the bark again at
the horizontal cut (see above) . Then
secure the bud in place with plastic tape
or raffia in the same wa)' as for a chip-
budded ornamental tree (see box, p.61) ,
leaving the bud uncovered lO avoid
exerting loo 1nuch pressure on it.
I
11-- - - SAP Rl\fR
As ,1cw growth btgi,is,
1J1r S<lJJ rise,. drnws
tlu· sap IOhmd the
grafts, promo1it1g
swift hr,di,1g mul
hdping to reduce.· thr
number of uew shoots
llia1 OW)'Jo, m mowul
llu· I"ut1ing curs.
 GRAFTING AND BUDD ING

About six weeks after budding, the T-cut
should have callused, so you can remove
the tape or raffia. Thereafter, treat the
budded plant in the same way as for a
chip-budded tree (see pp.60-61).
INVERTED T·BUDDING
In some cases, such as in a wet climate,
an inverted T-cut is made on the stock
to prevent water from entering the graft
and causing rot. Th is method is also
frequent ly used for grafting cultivars of
citrus (see Citrus, p. 78). The technique
is largely as for conventional T-budding,
except that the bud is pushed upward
beneath the bark naps.
R IND GRAFTING
Sometimes it may be desirable LO change
a mature fruit tree (usually an apple or
pear) from one cuhivar to another, often
to introduce a new pollinator for nearb)'
trees and so improve cropping or silnply
to try a new cuhivar. The newly grafted
cultivar should bear fruit fairl)• quickly
because it benefits from having a mature
root and main branch system. This
practice is known as grafting over and
may be carried out by top-working a
pruned-back tree.
Rind grafting is often used for top-
working and is usual ly the best way
of inserting grafts into a large branch.
It takes its name from the process of
inserting scions under the bark (known
as rind by commercial fruit growers).
Ornamental trees are not rind-grafted;
it tends to create unsightly graft unions.
Rind grafting using dom1ant scions is
carried out when the sap is rising in the
stock tree so that the bark will lift easily,
usually in midspring.
To prepare a tree for rind grafting,
you first need to cut back most of the
main branches (see facing page and
below). One or two branches are left
intact to draw the sap toward the grafts,
which speeds healing and callusing.
Take scions from pencil-thick ripened
shoots of the previous season's growth.
Graft one branch at a time: cut the bark
of the branch so that you can insert the
scions. Make a long, straight cut through
the bark , down the branch as shown
below. !\,lake 2-4 even ly spaced cuts,
depending on the branch circumference,
then lift the bark.
Prepare the scions as shown below,
then insert one scion into each cut in
the bark. Make su re that the tapering
side of the base of each scion lies inward
so that it is in contact with the cambial
layer of the stock branch. Bind them
with grafting tape and seal the graft with
grafting wax. The graft should unite and
grow rapidly, so remove the tape after
about six weeks to prevent constriction.
Only one scion will be needed to
form the new branch, but leave them all
in place during the first growing season
and remove all but the most vigorous
one in the following winter. If any
shoots develop on the stem around and
below the grafts, remove them when
they are 3-4in (8- l Ocm) long.

RIND GRAFTING A FRUIT TREE

angled cur ,H
wpojsdon

Long.
m,gtr,J
. _ ut

Head bacl1 all hu1 one or 1wo
1 of the nwin brandies on d1t
rootstock, lecwing a s,111 riser (sec
facing page). Trim 1he barl, around
dlC CUIS, if IICCCSS<II)', SO 1l1a, 1l1c
pnmed swfacr has no snags.
\Vi1h a clee111, sl1<1rp grafting
2 lmifc. score ti cur in rhc b<1rlt
thlll cxtencls downwa,rl about 2in
(5011) from 1hc pnmed end of llw
branch. Mal,c up IO four etiually
StJ<1Ced cuts around the branch.
\Villi !he reverse edge of the
3 grafting lmife, or wi1l1 a 1hi11
sp,11ufa. lift 1hr bark w one side of
4
nodes.
each c1,t and can-fully eas1:: it awlly
to expose the am1bium foyer of rlre
brunch ln:ncath ,
Tc, pn:pan· du.· scions. cur stems
inro sections each with rhrce
Ml1J:t llc1u jus1 (1bove. nnd
angled""'")' from. the upper bud.
Trim o l½in (4cm) sliver of wood
f,0111 1hr base. opposite a bud.

Ce1rcji1lly slide" prqX1rc,I
5 scion bcuearh eacl, cut in 1l1c
bark on 1hc s,od1, Mahe sure 11,ai
1h, cw su,fe1cc ,11 1hc base of eacl,
scion is in dose co11wc1 with the
stocl:S aunl>iwn foy£'r.
Bind the gl'ajt union with
6 pfe1s1ic grnf1ing wpe, malling
sure rhat each turn overlal's tht·
previous one. Bind from 11,e IOp of
1he br,mch 10 "'"1111 Jin (2.5cm)
below rhe c1us and ric off the Wl'e .
Seal 11,c cu1 suiface of eacl,
7 branch wid1 c1 wound fJ(1i11t
or graft ing wax ro preve111 entry
of w(llcr. Avoid coating 11,e edge
nclff the scions, so that the buds
lwvc room to sweH and groH1.
ln the following wintn: remO\'f
8 all b111 1lie SI ro11gcs1 scion fro111
each branch, c1,u111gflush wirh the
1,r1111ed surface of the brand,. The
scions will grow 011 ro form the new
bnu,ches (sec above).

63
GARDEN TREES

LAYERING SIMPLE LAYERING A TREE

T his process may occur naturally in
some t recs, when one or ,nore low-
growing stems root into the ground;
this ability can be exploited in simple
layering to obtain a small number of
new plants. Air layering also induces
adventitious roots to form on a stem,
but it is carried out above ground and is
useful for trees with an upright habit.
S IMPLE LAYERING A TREE
Carry out layering from midautumn
to early spring, ideally in mid- to late
autumn for deciduous trees and in early
spring for evergreens.
Thoroughly cultivate the ground
where the selected shoot will be la)•ered.
Select a strong, healthy shoot, preferably
of the previous season's growth; they are
more pliable and most likely to root in
the first season. Wound the shoot (see
right) or twist it until the bark splits to
concentrate the sap at the rooting point.
Peg down the shoot and stake the tip -
tie it loosely to allow for new growth.
new roots, then water. Keep the layers
watered during the summer. Check for
rooting in the follo,ving autumn: once 1
\Vouml the slwot I2in
(30cm) from rhc Ii/>, on
S~IVER
rooted, layers of deciduous trees should the underside of the stem
be lifted in mid- to late autu1nn and opp<1site a but/. C111 off a
those of evergreens in early spring. J-2i11 (2.5-.5cm) sliver of
Cut each layer from the parent just bcirl:, or cut a tongue aml
TONGUE
below the new roots, then grow on in a open with a matchstick.
nursery bed or pol singly. Trim back the
parent shoot either Lo the main stem or Dust the wound with
an appropriate sideshoot. Most layers
should be ready for planting out in 2-3
2 honnone rooting JJOWde,:
Mix some roo,ing medium inro
years, but some may take five years. the soil bene<Hh and peg down
the shoot each side of the
AIR LAYERING A TREE wound, at a de11th of J-6in
Air layer a shoot outdoors in early (8--J5cm ). Tic in the exposed
spring, or whenever the shoot is ripe, sl1001 tip to a swl1e. fill in.
as shown below. \.Vound the stem by Jinn, ,w1te1; mul lalJr.l.
removing a ½-l in ( l -2.5cm) wide ring
of bark or culling a tongue. Opaque Lc4yt·,rd shoot
plastic bags make the best sleeves 1<>c1r~ J,om \\ ouncl
because they retain moisture and reflect
light, so the rooting medium does not '. <
become too hot. Once the layer has
rooted and been polled, grow it on < ••

Fill in around the shoot with soil mixed under mist or in a closed case as for
with rooting mediu1n. F irm well to rooted cuttings (see pp.50-52), and
prevent natural seLLling of soil exposing plant out two years later.

AIR LAYERING A TREE

Use ft'"\'t'rst" bl<ulr
of hnifr. swke, or
nwtcl1s1ick w
push in moss

Ci,rrc,H - - , -- - - ,
,\t'(.l~On$
grow1Ji

Trim rhe leaves (lrere of Ficus e lastica) from Mahe a sloping. upwa,.(I cut ¼in (5nun) Roll the slcn•e into place arouncl the wound.
1a srraigJ11l}{1selcngrh
cutting ,he
of stem. MaJir a sleeve by
of a plastic bag; slitk i1 aver
the
2 dtcp ,md Jin (2.5cm) long (sec inset). Dusr
under dtt! tongue will, horn1011t? rooting l)Owde,;
3 Pllck die slecvt: evenly with more moss so ir
co,•crs tlie wound completely. Se,11 the upper end
stem. Secure the lower end with tape. then l)USh in (I liule moist spl1ag1111m moss. of 1l1e sleeve to die stem wid1 wpe.

\-\tlit muiJ new Gemly tease out

4 roots show
through the sleeve 01;
5 rhe moss from 11,c
mots. Pot the layer
if using an opaque into a pot about 2in
sleeve, OJJen ii lO (5cm) lwgtr rha11 the
ched1 for roolS after roo1 ball. Fill wirh 11
2-3 months. Of the polling mix suited to
Siem is slow lo root, rhe pla111. Firm ge111ly
le,ivc it 11111il the to cwoicl dcmwging
following sp,ing.) rhe roots. Cut back
Remove the rootetl vigorous wpgrowth 10
layer, curring through ensure tl1e roots can
the stem m an angle sustain die new planl.
just abo,•e a node 011 \\4rter; labd, and trel'll
the parent plant wid1 as a rooted cutting.
pnwers. Remove 1hr
plastic sleeve.

64
 PALMS

PALMS MlST PROPAGATlO TENT

alms are evergreen and are grown
P outdoors in tropical and s ubtropical
climates. The)' need ,noist, well-drained
soil in full s un to deep shad e, depending
on the species. Some palms, such as
Phoenix species and the pahneuos (Sabal) ,
come from s unny regions and can
tolerate sun as young plants, wh ile palms
native to rainforests, such as Chamaedor-ea,
prefer s hade even when mature. Many
need s helter from s trong winds. Cold
winds can stun t or damage new leaves,
wh ile hot winds increase moisture loss.
In warm climates, palms are grown
ou tdoo rs, but e lsewhere they mus t be
cultivated under cover or as houseplants,
or outdoors in s umme r. A few to lerate
some cold, however, such as Bulia
capitata an d Tr-«d1ycar-pus f on1111ei.
When propagating, the best way to
mimic natura l growing conditions for
many palms is with a mist propagation
unit (seep.44 and right) in a sunny
greenhouse. Th is is a te nt or case over
a heated bench, which he lps keep the
soil mix moist and the air humid. It
should be venti la ted regularly to reduce
the risk of rot attacking )'Oung plants.
Palms can be propagated in two ways,
from seeds or by division. Most are best
grown from seeds, which are rela tively
easy to obtain , but som e palms produce
suckers o r offsets and can be m ore
quickly increased by division.
pa lm (Phoenix dc,ctylifera), or dry nesh.
as in the coconut palm (Cocos 1111cifera) .
Seeds are collected when the fruits
ripen and change color (see below),
Clean off all the pu lp to p reven t rot,
then wrap the seeds in d amp tissue
paper or peat moss. To remove dry nesh,
soak the fru its in warm water for 1-2
days until soft, then scrape off to reveal
the seeds. The hard-coated seeds are
best sown fresh. Genninated seedlings
can be held for several mon ths in a
container without fertilizer. When )'OU
want the plants to begin growing
actively, transfer to another pot, water,
and fertilize: they will grow rapidly.
Purchased seeds may be su pplied dry;
if so, soak them in warm water for at
least 24 hours and up to two weeks, A mist /J1Vpagmio11 tent in a gre1mho11~1' allm\s
then sow at once. Fi le (see p.53) or crack in plen1y of diffuse Jiglir. Heming ad,lcs /JY<Wiclc
them carefu ll)' in a vise or nutcracker botrom hem of 77-82°F (25-28°C), 11nd
to enable moisture to reach the seeds humidity is kept dose to JOO percent with fine
for germination. water sprays from overl,ead pipes.
GATHERING PALM SEEDS
-
-~.

PALMS FROM SEEDS

Palms have in norescen ces made of many
s mall nowers; some nower repeated ly,
while a few, such as Ca,you. rumph iana
var. albenii, nower o nce and die. The
fruits have moist nesh. as wi th the date
As soon as die berries (here of Coccothrinax Ped ciff tJ1e Jlnh wul so\\ <H ,met'. Sc~·ds
1 rn:lgrans) ri,,en mul dumgt" color. 11sua1Jv 2 n1u)' be storctl hrirflv iu clam1> t is~ur poprr
fmm gr-ct11 to red or pu,·plc. cut off" IJ1mt li. in" 1>fi1>1ic b11!( m 6S-F (20°C).

A-Z OF PALMS
BORASSUS Seeds as for large
taprootcd seeds (sec p.66):
germinal ion 2-1 months,,,.
llUllA Sow seeds in spring; n1c
or crack wood)• coats,,. Seeds
ofJelly palm (B. capiww. syn.
Cocos capitara) arc difncuh to
germinate (in 6-S weeks): soak
in warm water for up to 48
hours iu. Slow-growing.
C,\Rl'OTA F1s111A1L PAL\I Sow
fresh seeds spring 10 summer!-
Germination in 3-6 weeks:
handle toxic seeds wilh care.
Divide suckering species such
as C. miris in spring U.
1
C1-,AMJ\EOOREA Seeds in spring;
germination in 6-8 weeks i .
Coco, Nuu,-e.,, CocoNur Sow
seeds in spring as for large
seeds (see 1>-66) a, 81-86°F
(27-30°C): germination in 5-6
months; growth is rapid,.
D1'PS1> (syn. Neo<ly,,sis) Divide
basal offsets !I-
f IO\\'EI\ SENTRY PAI.M Sow seeds
spring LO summer ,&~-Slow and
erratic germination in 1-2 years
or more. Grow seedlings in
well-drained, rich soil in brighl.
indirect light and mild, humid
condit io ns~ lighlly fertilize in
the growing season.
Sow
J UBJ\liA CIULE.t\N WINE P,\L\I
seeds in spring; germination in
3-6 momhs,.
L\TANU L\TAN PALM Sow seeds
in spring!-
LNIYfO:\t.A Fr\N P,\I M Sow seeds
in spring al 73°1' (23°C) ~-
Germination in two months.
Grows bcsl in scmishadc with
deep, fertile soil. Only female
of cabhage palm (L australis)
needed lO set seeds, which
tolerate some drying out bm
then take longer to germinalc.
LODOICU\ Coc0-0[-~l [R, DOL Ol[
cocoxuT Sow seeds as for large
seeds (sec l'-66) !11- Has 3ft
(Im) taproo1.
Sow seeds spring 10
PHOENIX
summer: germina1ion in 1-2
mon1hs !- Protect from direct
sun for 2- 3 years. Divide
suckers; slow-rooting offsc1s
need humidity at 86°F (30°C)
until roots form; seedlings
need 64-68°F ( I8-20°C) U-
RffAPIS L\OY PALM Sow seeds in
summer; gcrmina11o n in +-6
weeks 1i. Divide basal
offsets !1-
Ror.>r0.'11·A RO\',\I. ML;..·t Sow
seeds in spring: germination in
2- 3 momhs iu.
5Al~I PALMl:1 I O Sow seeds in
spring: germination 1wo months
1- Division of basal offsets 11,
Tolera1es wide range of soils.
TM CIIYC,\RPUS Sow kidncr-
shaped seeds in spring!- File or
nick woody seed coats to allow
moisture to pcnelratc an<l begin
germination, in up to two
months. Needs sun.
\V,u111:-:c10N1,, Sow seeds spring_
lo smnmer~germination in -l-6
weeks 1- Pro1cc1 from strong
sunlight u111il one year old.

65
 GARDEN TREES
SOWING PALM SEEDS
•
••- . ] Sow c,bo111 fen seeds
• .... (here of Caryota) in , llurt is just lcirgt-r than its mot
a deep 6in (15cm) por: space rhem
evenly a,1cl not too dose to lire ,im
whrrc they may thy ou1. Covt-r
wid1 their own dqnl1 of soil mix.
SOWING PALM SEEDS
Palm seeds are best sown in pots. Deep
clay pots are preferable; they prevent
waterlogging and acco modate thei r long
taproots. Fill each pot with a suitable
seed soil mix , such as equal parts o f
peat and fine g rit, water it well, then
allow to drain. Sow the seed s even ly (sec
above) . An air temperature o r 86-97°F
(30-35°C) and high humidity arc
essential for a good rate o f germination.
Never allow the seeds to dry out;
o thenvise, they will die. Gennination
can take rrom three weeks 10 l8 months.
Don't expect more than two-thirds o f the
seed s to germinate.
Seeds sown in warm climates usually
germinate up to a week earlier than in
colder climates. Protect pots of seeds
from harsh sunlight by placing the111 in
a shade house (see p.45) with 30-45 per-
cen t shade, depending o n the region.
In colde r climates, place a heated
closed case supplying bonom heat of
77-82°F (25-28°C) in a sunny spot in
the g reenhouse to provide maximum
heat and light. Maintain the humidity b)'
wateri ng regu larly and lig htly spraying
over the pots. Alternatively, use a mist
propagation unit (sec pp.44 and 65).
Overheating can cause the seeds to rot,
so venti late the uni t regu larly.
For large quanti ties of palms, sow
seeds in drills in a raised seed bed (see
p.55) in moist , light, free-draining soil
or soil ,nix to minimize damage to the
roots when transplanting seedlings.
PREGERMINATING PALM SEEDS
If space is limited, palm seeds ma)' be
pregerminated in a bag (see above right)
of soilless mix or damp peat moss,
ke pt under a greenhouse benc h or
in a warm cupboard. Seeds treated in
this way germinate earlier - usually in
four 10 eight weeks, depending on the
species. The seeds should be c hecked
66
U!11wt grrm1,w1io11 ,mr
is 50-70 J)f,C:Cnf
Keep rhc pm in a warm, bright,
2 humid posi1ion. 011cc rhcirfirsr
letwcs have formed, usually c1bout
two momhs aftn so,dng. /JOl the
seedlings. The •llots of each
seedling sl,ould be well
dcl'elOJlrd (see inset).
3 Pot rnch seedling
hulh,id1wtly into c1 pot
system . Lllbd. wmc,; and grow
on III humid, slwcly conclifions. tlllX 1'tldbks
, Boost rhc young planr with er foliar Clit fO
Jrrtilizcr while it is in ac1h•r growth. cirn cl<Hc.-
PREGERM I NATI NG PALM SEEDS
Mi.x rite seeds (here of Caryota / 2 llcmdle ecrch seedling by rhe seed case to
1 milis) with moist peol in a dear ,,, avoid damaging the new roois and <my
1,lcrstic bag. Seal wul i<,bel rhe berg. ' - - - - ' slwor. Por singly in 2- Jin (5-8cm) pots of"
rhen heeJI ir in lighr shade nt crbout 66'F () 9'C). s11i1able porting mix. covering each seed 10 its
\Viren 1he roots arc abour 2in (5cm) long (see own cle1,rl1 . \Varer cmd lcrbel rhe pors. Grow the
inset), pot the seedlings. seedlings 011 in l111111id, brighr shade.
daily ror sig ns or sprouting, then po11ed LARGE PALM SEEDS
before I hey become 100 large. Seeds
produce roots first, then shoots, but they
can be potted as soon as the)' have roots.
To reduce the risk of rot, pot the
seedl ings into pots just larger than
their roots. A potting mix or equal pans
coarse bark, soil, fine grit, and peat, or
one or equal parts loose rockwool , soil-
based mix and perlite , with a little slow-
release fertilizer, is su itable. Keep the
seed lings in humid, bright shade for
rour 10 six weeks after potting until
they are established.
LARGE PALM SEEDS
A few palms have giant seeds that send
out long taproots, or "sinkers," such as
the double coconut ( Lodoicea maldivica) For coco11111s and 01her palms that produce large
or the toddy palm (Borassus flabellifer). seeds, choose c, deep pol w cdlow die wprom
These are best direct sown individually IO develop. Half-bury ecrch s1•ed in a suitcd,le
in a deep conmincr (see right) . A large potting mix. AJ,cr ge,mi11ation. groh' 011 rhc
seed may be sown in an outdoor bed, seedfiug in rhc same conrainrr; tl1c seed hush
but the condi1ions may no t be ideal for will grad1wlly ,lisinregrme as rhr shoot tlel'elops.
 PALMS

germination, and the sinker will be
open to allack from insects and other
creatures. The seed should be on ly half
buried, leaving the top exposed so the
seedling can emerge directly into light.
CARE OF SEEDLINGS
Seedling palms need protection from
hot sun for two to three years; rainforest
palms arc particularly vulnerable to
harsh light. They tolerate much more
sun if they arc well watered than those
allowed to dry out between waterings.
Moving any p~hn seedling fro1n shade
into very bright su n can severely scorch
the leaves. If planting positions are in
full sun, keep the seedlings first in
fihered sunlight , and keep wel l watered.
Su,nmer watering is essential: water
frequently and thorough ly, and mulch
the seedbeds. A light foliar feed may be
applied during the growing season.
Et,sc the I'"'"' (here Cl le1dy
1 pol111) from i1s poi. Seirer 2 offse1 from 1hc nwin s1cm,
curci,1g straiglu ocmss d1r rooi
an offsc, wirl, 3--6 P"irs of
fc<nies cmd a go<Jcl rn()l system. c,s dose lo the p<m:nt plant
Genrly rcase 0111 the offsets (IS J)OSSibre, Rt•tun, d,r p,m.'HI
roots with a )1(111a fork plw11 to irs ,,or.
D IVIDI NG PALMS
Some palms, such as Cluysalidoa,rptts
species, lad)' palms (Rl,apis), Phoenix,
and some C/1amaedoreC1, readily produce
offsets, or suckers, at the base of the
plant. These may be removed, usually
in spring, and then polled or plan ted
out, depending on the climate (see below).
Division is a fairly simple technique, but
care will be needed to prevent rot from
en tering the wounded tissue, in wh ich
case the division will fail.
If the base of the offset is below soil
level , carefully scrape away the soi l with
a hand fork or remove the plant from
its pot to expose the roots. Cut off the
offset, retaining as many of the roots as
possible to enable the offset to establish.
Gently ease it free, avoiding any damage
to the parent plant, which will leave it
vu lnerable to rot. If needed, dust any
Use prmu·,s to sever rhc Tl,c offscr sl,0111,l lun•c
3 ,1 vigornus, healthy mm
system thm is in proponiou
ro the wpgrowth. 1;·i111 off
any tlamoged or cliSl'<lSf'(l roots
wir/1 n clew,. sharp l111ife.
wounds to the parent's roots with a
fungicide before replacing the soil or
repouing. Trim the offset's roots, treat
with fungicide, then plan t out or pot.
A good polling mix can be made
from equal pans peat, fine bark, fine
grit, soil, and coarse sand . Pot the
offset in a clay pot just large enough
for the roots. The )'Oung plant must be
shaded from hot su n at a mini,num air
ten1perature of 66°F ( l 9°C) and kept
well watered until established.
If planting an offset outdoors (see
below), choose a shady si1e wi th moist
soil, sheltered from the wind if possible.
Make sure that the planting hole allows
the roots 10 spread out naturally.
ROOTLESS OFFSETS
Some palms have very few l'OOts, so
extra care is necessary with these. A
rootless offset is still obtaini ng nutrients
from the paren t plan t. Root growth can
be stimulated by cutting a notch, or
slice, al the base of the offset. Dust the
wound with fungicide, re-cover i1 with
soil, and keep the offset well watered.
Remove any leaves to enable the offset
to conserve moisture.
Alternatively, remove the rootless
offset and seal it in a clean plastic bag.
Leave it in deep shade at a minimum
1cmpera1ure of 66°F ( l 9°C), in a
greenhouse if necessary. In this case,
there is no need to remove any leaves,
because 1he scaled bag preserves a
humid atmosphere. Ventilate the bag by
opening it for an hour or two each day.
After a few months, roots should
form: open the bag 10 ha rden off the
offset for a few days, then pot or plant
ou1. Plant the offset sl ightly deeper than
before to encou rage root growth, and
remove some of its leaves to reduce
water loss. Keep the offset well watered,
and do not allow it to dry out.

PLANTING AN OFFSET INTO A BED

Proiecr rhe cur mo1 of ll1f
4 offset from l'Ot by dipping
ii in a smaH q1uuui1y of
f1111giciclal powder. s11ch as
s11!f111· d11sr. Slwl,c off ,my
excess powder: if it is too
thicl:. ii may hindrr rooting.
To divide a pol111 growing
i11 c>/Jen gro11ml, fl rsr select
an offset f ro111 rhe l'are11t
J>frmr (l,ere a lady 1x1l111).
Detach mul prt:JJ<ffe the
offset (see steps I 10 4.
left). taking care ro avoid
damaging r)ie rootball.
Restore the soil amumt
rl,e parents l'Oorball.
PreJJarc a 1,lm11ing hole
in O/JCH, \\1elt-drained,
11,oisr soil. Make rhc hole
Pfocc the offse, i11 a po, sufficiently large lo spreC1d
5 jusr large enough fm rlie
mms. rheu backfill with c1
0111 the roots of rhe offset
narurally. Locate rlie soil
suiwbk soif mix, hccping the nwr,: 011 the stem ancl JJlant
olfser m tlu.· s,1mc <lt#)th as il at the same cleplli. Finn in
was before. Grnw OJI in wann
gcnrly. water ill, (Illa label.
shade with high humicli1y.

67
GARDEN TREES
CYCADS
ycads rese1nble palms, being
C evergreen trees or s hrubs, but are
botanicall)' unrelated. They are primitive
plants, reproducing by means of seeds
produced by unisexual conelike
structures, which bear either ovules
o r pollen sacs. The ovules develop into
seeds. Some cycads produce suckers,
or offsets, which can be d etached and
grown on. Propagation is very simi lar
lo palms (see J>p.65-67), therefore, but
it is more challenging.
CYCADS FROM SEEDS
When raising cycads from seeds, the
gardener can expect a success rate of
no more than 50 percent. To achieve
the best possible rate of germination,
the seeds should be tested for viability
and then prepared before sowing.
SOWI NG PREGERM INATED SEEDS
Halffill a clear plasric /Jag wirh
1 moisr pear. Puc in <J dozen seeds (here of
Macrozamia moorci, sec inset}; se<1I mul labd.
Keep in lighr shade with borrom hear of
77-82°F (25-28°C) unril se«ls gcn11i11(1tc.
\Vhcn the roots cmc,ge. sow rhe seeds in
2 a suitable seed slJil mix in deep ,,ors, which
will allow the 1a11root ro develop. Mal1c sure
duu die rooi is covered, bu, Jcave the seed case
half CX/JOsed. \\0tcr well and label.
68
A mature male and female cycad arc
needed to produce viable seeds. Gather
the seeds when the "cones" fall to the
ground. The nutlike seeds are up to
Jin (8cm) long, with a woody casing
covered by a thin red, yellow, or orange
pulp. This fleshy outer coat con tains an
inhibitor that delays germination and so
must be removed: peel or scrape off the
flesh, then wash the seeds in water.
Many cycad seeds may be infertile or
dead, so it is worth sorting them before
sowing. A quick way to test viability is
to shake them: an)' that raule are not
viable. Another 1nethod is the flotation
test. Drop 1he seeds into water. they ir
float, they are not ripe; if they sink , they
s hould germinate. This test is not totally
accurate; seeds of some Cycas species
float to be dispersed b)' the sea.
To allow moisture to penetrate the
seed and initiate
germinalion ~ 111ake
a shallow cul in 1he
hard seed coat at
one end of each
seed, using a sharp
knife or file (see
below). Take care
not to cut too deep,
which will damage
the embryo.
In warm climates,
if the seeds are more
than two weeks old,
.__ 10pgroh1'1 emagts
onl)' whrn wpwor
is h tll devcfopf,J
- - - s,1001 wul ldot
cme,xefrom
encl of srt·,l
- - Loug, btutlr
WJJl'OOI
Grow on rhe seedling in
3 l,igh /111111iclity ill ligl,t
shade. Provide borr,m1 hem
lO ensure ti minimum air
Jr,,:,-
tempcrawrc of 66°F ( I 9°C).
Keep well watered 11111il the
shoot emc,gcs, and pm whc11 ir
Jias two or d1rec leaves.
they should then be soaked in warm
water for up to 24 hours to improve
the rate of germination. In cool climates,
soak the seeds for two or three days.
S OWING CYCAD SEEDS
A good seed soil mix for C)'Cads can
be made from equal parts compost
or peat, and three pans coarse grit.
Th is mix provides good aeration and
moisture retention. Cycad seedlings
have long taproots, so it is best to sow
them singly in deep clay pois. Sowing in
a raised seedbed is not recommended ,
because the roots are very sensi tive and
root disturbance will either kill the
plants or check their growth.
For best results , the seeds m;oy be
germinated before sowing (see below
left) , but seeds may also be sown direct
into pots (see below). The seeds should
be half exposed and should be kepL
well watered and mis ted.
To germinate, cycad seeds require a
minimum air te mperature of 70-86°F
(21-30°C) and 60-70 percent relative
humidity. In cold regions, these
conditions can be provided in a heated
closed case or a mist propagation unit
(see pp.44 and 65). Cycad seeds
usually take much longe r - from
four to 15 1110111hs - to germinate
than those of palms. Fresh seeds take
a week or Lwo less to germinate in
warm climates.
SOWING SEEDS I N POTS
\Vith a sharp lmife,
nick du~seed coat,
.__ _ __...__ __, culling no deel'er rhan
¼'in (1-2111111) (see inset) w avoid damaging
the embryo. S,mk for 1-2 days. Pre,,art deep
clay pots widt a suitable seed soil mix and
press each seed /,oti:;;011111/ly into ,he surface
ro half its depth. Water ,md label, 1/ie11 grow
on in warm shade wirh high l11m1idity.
 C YCADS

C ARE OF CYCAD SEEDLINGS DIVISION OF CYCAD OFFSETS

Once the taproot is well
established a nd the shoot has
two or three leaves, pot each
seedli ng. Ta ke care, because the
you ng root is very b rittle. Use
a poui ng mix o f equal parts o f
coarse bark, coarse grit, shredded
rockwool o r med iu m-grade perlite, soil,
and peat - o r of equal parts soi l-based
potting mix, rockwool, a nd perlite. Add
a little slow-release fertilizer.
Place the seed lings in a shad e house
(see p.45) o r g reen house with 40 percent
shade a nd high h u midity. Keep them well
watered. A twice-monthly applicatio n of To expose 1/,e off.<ets, 1il1 11,r Tt, preve111 die tnml: of the
half-stre ng th liquid fert ilizer d u ri ng the
growing season is be neficial.
1pol wul scrape {,way the iop
layer of soiJ mix wit I, a trowel
2 ,1,e womul. if
parcnr JJfrmt from rotting,
r, im neccSSCII')~ to
Some cycads to lerate hot sun from Slice off tm offse1 from 1/,e base of ltcwe a smootli surface cmd dust
an early stage, bu t others, such as those CYCAS REVOLU"rA the trunh wilh <~ clean, shar11 the cut with fungicidi• such as
that origina te from rai nforests (for \ VITM OFFSETS knife or with a pruning smv. sulfur d11s1.
example, some Zamia species) need
gen tler treatme nt. The seedling leaves
are ve r)• sensitive, and ho t, bright sun
will scorch them. tvlost new plants need Mlllure pl<mts
a period o f harde ning off. Keep them in sut kt,·J,rtly
shade for at least th ree 10 four months,
and gradually b ring them into full sun
over a period o f one )•ear.
Sun-hardened cycads are generally
quite to lc ran1 o f wi nd, bu t rainforest
species may suffer. Cold winds may
damage new growth, while ho t winds
ma)' desicate leaves. Plant out seed lings
when they have developed good roots
and a few leaves; this is generally afte r
2-5 years, depending on the species.

DlYlDlNG CYCADS
Cycads may be p ropagated fro m the
offsets, or suc kers. that a rc p roduced on
the tru nk or at the base of some pla nts.
The offsets must be re,noved a nd
handled with care until well established.
To detach a basal o ffset (see ,iglu),
remove the soil o r soil mix to expose the
base where it is a ttached 10 the parent
plant, a nd cu t it off. Trim the wo unds
and treat wiLh fung icide to sto p rot from
entering the da maged tissues. If the
offset has much to pg rowth , remo ve the
lower leaves to reduce mo isture loss a nd
treat the e ntire o ffset with fu ng icide.
Hang the offset in a cool, d ry place
unti l the wounds heal. Prepare a large
clay pot with a soil mix made of equal
parts peat a nd coarse sand or g rit, or o f
Thm the wo1111cf 011 1he offse1. lO produce a
3 clco11 surface ]rte of any snags. Dusi the
wound with fu11gicicle (see insel) to protec1 ii
from ro1. T<llle care 1101 to touch d1r wound wid1
yow 11(1,uls ro <1voicl cu11u1mimuing it.
equal pan s soil-based potti ng mix,
perlite, and rockwool. Pol the o ffset
a nd , if necessary, stake il to p rotect
the fro nds.
Divid ed o ffsets need very similar
conditions to seedlings (see above) 10
establish successfully; generally this
will take l - 3 years, depe nding on the
species. In cold er climates, root growth
is greatly improved in a mist
propagation u nit (see pp.44 and 65).
Some cycads, particularly Cycas, may
produce offsets from their Lrunks when
Pltlce 11,e offset in "" ope11-
4 meslicd bag thlll allows free
air circulation. Hang in shade
for J-3 clays ID allow rhc
wmmcl w cc1llus over:
Poi in a 6-8i11 (I 5-20cm)
5 po, cu the swne depth as ll
was hefore mul support will, a
swhe. Grow 011 in light shade
at a mi11 im11111 of 70°F (2 l°C).
mature. Altho ugh much
small er than basa l offsets, they sLill yield
vigorous plants. The o ffsets begin as
small swellings o n Lhe trunk , o ften
caused by damage, which the n produce
leaves. Once the growth is d eveloped,
de tach it as for basal o ffsetS (see above) .

A- Z OF CYCADS
BOWENrA Sow fresh seeds~ germina1ion basal offsets; 6-8 moni hs 10 rooiing Ul- I f'PU)()ZAMIA Sow short-lived, lOXiC seeds
takes up 10 one year u. D100N Sow shori-lived seeds rrcsh; rrcsh aher removing outer seed <:oat~up to
ere.AS FER'-: Sow seeds al
P,\LM, SAGO MlM germination in 6-18 months; seedlings arc two years 10 genninate, then fas1-growing U-
43-54°F (o- t 2°C) l- Seeds of Zamia palm fas, growing U- MACROZA,lf!A Sow seeds in spring Ul-
(C. media) germina1e in o-8 monihs l- ENCEPHAt.ARros Sow seeds in spring; M. moorei germina,cs at 50-59°F (10-15°C).
Seeds or Japanese sago palm (C. l'evolura) germination in 2-6 months: seedlings grow Z\\flA Sow seeds in spring; germinalion in
germinate in 3--1- months U- Division or fast in favorable conditions,. 2-4 months l-

69
GARDEN T REES
CONIFERS
ost conifers, whether trees or shrubs,
M can be raised in a variel)' of ways,
the principal ,nethods being cuttings,
seeds, and grafting. Taking cullings is
the easiest method for many types,
suitable for selected cultivars and clones,
and yields a number of identical plants -
ideal for an avenue or hedge. Species are
most often raised front seeds (cul1ivars
may not come true) , buL this may be
slow. Grafting is usually used if seeds
are unavailable or for cultivars thal do
not root well from cuu ings.
T AKING CUTTINGS
Conifers are usually propagated from the
current )•ear's growth, usi ng semi-ripe or
ripewood (fu lly ripe or woody) cuuings.
The basic principles are si,nilar LO those
for other trees and shrubs, bul there are
some key differences. The main one is
thal many conifers make new growth
fro,n specialized buds; the way a shoal
develops is determined by where iL is
located on the parent plant. In coniferous
trees, lead ing or main shoots grow
more or less straight upward, while
sideshoots grow outward. \oVith n1os1
conifers, it is very difficuh to make a
TAKI NG CON I FER CUTTI NGS
Equal ,,arts 1>e,11
mul fine barb
Prepare a pol, culdi11g a pinch of slow-release
1 fer1ilizcr at rhc bottom (,o tlvoitl bwning the
11ew roots). Talu: young shoms, nm adult ones
wirh frui rs (see inse,. ld1).
Space ct11tings
l ½in (4cm )
l:q,wl
f'("Jrh pmt.
prtlih-.
,mdflnt
fxu-1:
l11sen 6-7 culli11gs of slow-roo1i11g conifers
4 (herc Juniperus conrena) to er 6i11 (15cm)
pOI, i11 case some do 1101 ralie. Label all c1111i11gs.
70
culling taken from a sideshoot form a TAKI NG CU TTINGS MATERIAL
leading shoot (ahhough with pines and
deciduous types, there is no problem);
with some, such as monkey puzzles
(Araucaria) , it is almost impossible.
Even with cypresses, which generally
form leading shoots qui te readily, there
are several cuilivarian1s. These are forms
created by taking cullings from differen t
pans o r the same parent: each pan has
different genes "switched on," so that the
various cuu ings produce cuhivars that
are genetically the same but different in
their form or growth pattern (such as a
naturally dwarf form). The differences
in form remain fixed in the cunings, as
in cultivars or Lawson's cypress, for
exan1ple Clwmaecy paris lawso11iw,a Sclcc1 srm11g lccrcli11g shoots wirh yow,gfolic,gc
'Ellwoodii' and 'Fletcheri'). cu rhr rips (1l1fsc lw"c 111c bcsr gmwing poims).
Cuuings taken from young (juvenile) Tal11, 2- 6i11 (5- 15cm) long c1111i11gs of the semi-
growth usually root best. Such growth ripe or ripl' wood, cutringjusr below a node.
persists into the mature plant with the
cypress fam ily, including Cupl'cssus, W HEN TO TAKE CUTTINGS
Cl,mnaecyparis, and junipers. In spruces Take cuuings from summer un til just
(such as Picea), however, the juvenile before growth resumes in spring, ideally
factor fades (often after only five or six in early LO midautumn or in midwinter,
years). and cuuings from older trees are peak times for rooting ability. Easi ly
less likely LO root. ILis also essential rooting conifers root well Lhroughoul
Lo take cuuings from growth that is this period , but the more difficuh ones
vigorous, nol weak or sickly ( see riglu). Lend 10 root poorly, except during one or
fose, t cuuings )O
Joli<igc sib just
,~bovc mNlwm __.,.
If needed. st rip off rhe sicleslwo1s or 11eeclles Dip rhe bnse of each cutting in Jwrnwne
2 from 11,ird of et1cl1sce111 (/,ere of
11,e 1)0110111
Chamaecyparis 'Chilwor1J1 Silver'). The snwll
3 rooting compound (here powder). Insert
aisily ,voted cuuings singly i11 Ji,1 (8c,n) pots:
wounds left on the srems encourage rooting. mal:e (i hole, insert <1 cutting, firm, and wtHe,:
r Once cuuings ,.001.
- ~-ti-- - ita( I C(JSC \'flllilaliOn
Spray the c1,11i11gs with
5 a f1111giticlc 10 prtl'e111
ror. Place them in n hcmed
closecl case or i11 a cold
fra me. Checl, wecldy a11cl
w<1rer lighrly if 11eedecl. bur
do not saw,.are die medium .
Slwcle rhe wui11gs fro m hot
sun w m'oid scorch. They
should rom in tlrree monrhs.

other (or both) peak times. (See A-Z of
Garden Trees, pp. 74-91 for dewils of
specific plants.) Different clones of the
same species often show markedly
differing rooting abilit)'· If you take
cuuings in early spring, they are starting
to make new growth , even if i1 is not
apparen t, so they are unli ke!)' 10 have
sufficient reserves to make roots as well.
In late spring and early summer, 1he
growth is too sof1 and will rot.
PREPARING CONIFER CUTTINGS
The rooting medium should be well-
aerated (oxygen around 1he bases of
the cuttings aids rooting and helps 10
prevem rot) and able 10 retain moisture.
You could use peal, perli te, conifer bark ,
or vermiculite, or mixtures of 1hese with
coarse sand, in equal pans (see pp.33-4) .
If the cuuings are 10 be under mist,
use a higher proportion (3: l) of sand,
perli1c, or verm iculite. Do not r. rm the
medium in the pots.
Cuui ngs are usually prepared as
shown (see facing page), from one-)•ear-
old growth . This tends 10 determine
the size of the culling, but it should
be no lo nge r than 6in (I 5cm). W ith
scale-leaved con ifers such as cypresses,
remove sideshoo1s from the base of 1he
cuuings. Retain the need lcli ke leaves of
cuuings from con ifers such as spruces -
they may aid aeration at the base.
CARING FOR THE CUTTINGS
Root cuuings under plastic film on a
heated bench (see p.44), unde r mist, o r
in a sheltered site such as a hea1ed cold
frame (cullings in the open outdoors
will not tolerate freezing tem peratures).
If using a heated bench or mist , take the
cullings in autumn or late winter. Late
winter is best if using bouom heat (see
p.41), which should be al about 68°F
(20°C) , because less heat is needed.
Make sure tha1 the bouom heal does
not dry out the bases of the cuuings;
this is less of a problem wit h m isl. If
using a cold frame, take cuu ings in
autumn and shade the,n from d irect
sun while leu ing in as much light as
possible. Rooting with heat speeds the
process b)• a few weeks.
Although there wil l be liule or no
sign of any rooting activity in cuui ngs
taken in autum n, the)' will form root
initials over the winier and wi ll probably
root only as new growth is made in the
following early summer.
Once the cuni ngs are well rooted,
poi in a soil-based pouing mix (see
p.3~) . with slow-release fertilizer
to encourage vigorous growth . Provide
part ial shade for a few da)•S until they
senle in thei r roots, then place in bright
light to stimulate growth. Control vine
weevils with an insecticida l o r nematode
drench in midsummer and autumn.
CON IFERS
SELECT ING RIPE CON ES
Co11e stm1i11g
to open
UNRI PE RIPENING MATURE RIPE O PEN
Scots pme Scots pine Sco1s pine Pimcs ( ()ufteti P11111s couhcri
1\lauy cones clumge coro,. as they ripen, us,wlly
in 1l1c la,e summer or autumn. Pi nus sylvestris,
the Scots pine (sec above), wrns from green to
brow11. \Vhtu gmheri11g cones for seeds, take
UNRI PE OPEN
t1,c111 just <iftcr they change color, bur before Tsugc, TsuKa
they sum ta opt:n (dehisce). chine,1sis chitifmi)
with signs of insect damage, indicating
CON IFERS FROM SEEDS
that a cone-eati ng insect has beaten )'OU
Raising con ifers from seeds is the most 10 it. Take care 10 collect onl)' fema le,
econom ical way 10 raise a large number seed-bearing cones (see box, below).
of plants, but some species are slow to l f necessary, it is worth gathering
germinate or grow. Conifers produce cones that are nearly ripe, because the
seeds in cones ( modified from leaves) , seeds are often viable (albeit at a lower
hence their common name. Nearly all percentage) a couple of months before
conifers arc gymnosperms, which means the cones ripen fully. Some conifers
"naked seeds"; unl ike o ther plants, 1he retain seeds in the cones for a long time.
seeds are not enclosed in a frui t or a These are main ly certain pines (Pinus)
capsu le and develop while exposed 10 whose cones open in the wild only after
1he air (see also p.16). Conifer seeds may a forest fire (wh ich removes competing
be sown in the same way as other 1ree vegetation and leaves a natural seedbed).
seeds (see pp.53- 55) , but they are A few viable seeds may persist in the
unique in the way they are collected. old cones of 1110s1 (co111i11ued 011 p.72)
GATHERING THE CONES
Conifer fruits usua lly ripen (see above) AVOIDING PITFALLS
in autumn, changing colo r in the \Vhen collecting seeds. take care to select
process. They may ripen after one, two, only the kmalc cones, whkh contain the
or three summers, depend ing on the seeds. Beware of galls or male cones 1ha1
species; i1 is important 10 know which, may look similar to female <:ones.
because immature cones may look very
similar to ripe ones, bu1 unripe seeds MALE OR FEMALE?
will 1101 germinate. T his is particular!)' All conifers have
important for genera such as J uniperus, separate mare and
where in some species the only visible fe111ale flowers. Some
d ifference is a change in the fruits from trees are either male
green 10 blackish purple or blue, or in or female. This male
Cupressus, where one-year-o ld cones flower from a cedar
look mature. (See A-Z of Garden Trees, (Cedrus)
pp. 74-91 Jot details of specific pla111s.) laolls li/,e a
The r. rsl necessity is to find a tree cone, bu, it sl1eds
that is fruiting well. Con ifers are wind- yellow pollen.
pollinated, and liule pollen is carried
more than 300ft (90111) or so. Although PI NEAPPLE GALL
conifers can self-poll inate, the nu mber Certain spruces
of seeds fertilized, or set, is usuall y quite (Picea) may develop
low unless there arc several plants 10 co11elilie galls,
ensu re adequate cross-poll ination. Also, caused by <1phldlillt
if there are few cones, it is li kely that ,ulelgids. A gall
condi tions were un favorable for pollen (liere a1 the base of a
prod uction, so expect few viable seeds. shoor) is identified
Gathering cones from tall conifers by needles srid<i11g
may be difr.cult, but wind and ani mals 0111 of them.
often detach cones, and usually some
may be found on the ground. Avoid any
71
GARDEN TREES
EXTRACT ING THE SEEDS
Put jusr-ripc cones in a /Hlper·
1 linccl ccud/Joard box. ancl lal>cl.
I ('(J\'f the Jmx in tl warm doscl OJ
uv<.·1· a mdiaror until rhe scalts open.
CEDAR CONES
Female cones of the cedar
(Cedrns) take three or four years
10 ripen (sec right). The young
cone may only be lin (2.5cm)
long by the firs, autumn. In the
second year. although the cone
is much bigger, il is green and
s1i11 unripe. By lhe Lhird autumn,
the cone begins ripening and
changing color but remains
unopened. This long process c~n
be accelerated by picking brown
closed cone.s an<l alternately
soaking and drring them 10
prompt dehiscence. Soak in tepid
water for 12 hours. then dry in
gent le heat for 24 hours.
members of the Pinaceae, except for
the firs (Abies).
After handling cones or seeds, )'Our
fingers will be covered in resin , which is
hard 10 remove with soap or commercial
cleaners. The simplest solution is Lo rub
a liule buner into the resin , then use
soap or detergent LO remove the buuer.
EXTRACTING THE SEEDS
Ex traction is usually a mauer of leuing
the cones open LO release the seeds. \.Vith
a few exceptions, they have no neshy
coat or hard covering to be removed.
Any surface moistu re s hould be dried
off (at which stage they can be s tored),
but do not try 10 force open the cones.
Instead, lay them out on a tray or in an
open box and let them dry naturally at
room temperature at first, especiall)' if
they are still slightly green. Once they are
fully ripe and dry, the scales shou ld part
naturally and start to release the seeds.
If they fail to open, provide some
heat, up 10 l04-l !3°F (40-45°C); one
72
Oprn, "' cli'l1isct'tl,
Montercy Pill(: conr
1
\Vhcn rhe cones (If(' fully optyn, lip mil the winged
2 St'i'ds. Usr rwrtZCI') w pull out any S('eds that t1re
lodged bclw(·rn the scc,les. \Vitlr ll,esc cunifcr cones. 1hr
dw 11 seeds are more likely ro bt~viable dum tht pak 011cs.
•
NEW
CONE
GREEN
CONE
RIPE
CONE
OPEN
CONE
Scalt< fall •!'•rt Cedar cones have n
,1,1d clisperse _ circurar arrnngement
offlattened scales, to
Sralk Slt1ys
which the seeds tU'e
attached. The scales
loosen <JS the cone ripens
and fall off, layer by layer
until only die ccmral rachis, or
staHi, remains <atadied to the «ree.
wa)' is 10 place them in a cooli ng oven.
Most seeds wil l fall out (see ,ibove), but
som e will remain lodged in the cones.
Pick 1he1n out with tweezers, s hake the
con es vigorously in a large plastic bag,
o r tap the con e ti p o n a hard surface.
Many con ifer seeds, for example the
noble fir (Abies procera), have a wing 10
a id dispersal; you may remove or retain
it withou t affecting germination. In
some genera, especially firs, cedars, and
bald cypresses (T<t.Xoclium), the con es
break apart on maturity, then the seeds
and scales fa ll off (see box, above). With
these con ifers, soak the cones for several
days before drying them. Once dry,
separate the seeds from th e scales.
In a few of the soft pines, the cones
fall intac t and do n ot open; break them
o pen manually - this may be difficult.
The seeds o f jun ipers, yews (Taxus), and
some o ther con ifers have a neshy coat. It
is not essential 10 clean this off because
it sh ould break down naturally, but
removing it may hasten germination.
NONVIABLE
SEEDS
VI/\ IILE
SEEDS
If a color diffen•nce is ,w1 <1ppart111. cu1
3 some seeds in half (see insets)'" gcmge
whid1 proporli<m b vicible. Nonviable seeds will
he shrivcletl; vi<1ble seecls will be fat.
STORING CONIFER SEEDS
The seeds o f nearly all con ifers may
be s tored for five 10 20 years or 1nore in
a refrigerator at 34-39°F ( l -4°C), or for
even longer in a freezer at 8°F (-18°C).
First dr)' the seeds in a warm, airy place
before pulling them into clean , labeled
plastic bags or small containers.
TESTING SEEDS FOR VIABILITY
A high proportion of conife r seeds a re
usually dead or infertile. There are two
me thods of testing the seeds before
sowing. Place large seeds such as those
of pines (Pinus) in water. Viable seeds
will si nk, while any insect-infested and
empt)' seeds will noat. This will n ot
work with seeds of some coni fers, s uch
as firs, h owever.
The a lternative test invo lves culling
a sample of the seeds in hal f (see above).
No nviable seeds a re h ollow or have only
a little resin; viable seeds have a fat,
L1sually white , e mbryo.
BREAKING SEED DORMANCY
Some conifer seeds a rc dormant and
need 10 be treated before sowing (see
p.54), while others germinate easily.
!vlany seeds germinate 1nore quickly and
evenly if stratified for a short period in
a refrigerator. Mix the seeds with m oist
peat or san d and chi ll a t 34- 39°F
( l -4°C) for about three weeks, then sow
immediate ly (i f the seeds germ inate in
the refrigerator, sow them at on ce) .
Some seeds are doubl)' do rmant and
do not germinate for several yea rs, such
as j unipe r seeds. Speed the p rocess by
mixing them with damp peat or sand
and giving them a warm period of about
20 weeks a t 59-68°F (l5-20°C), for
instance in a heated closet, then a cold
period of 12 weeks in the bottom of a
refrigerator. You may prefer to wait; it
takes less effort and is more reliable.
 CONIFERS

GRAFTING growth rate to the scion; o therwise, there GRAFTING A CONIFER

As for other planis, grafting cop ifers
involves uniting a scion of the plant
you wish 10 propagate on to a rootstock.
IL is used where seeds are not ava ilable
(as with cultivars) or are inappropriate
and with conifers that arc difficult 10
root or grow poorl)' fro,n cuttings, such
as blue spruces (Picea pungens) .
\Vith con ifers, the rootstock acis
mainly 10 provide roots rather than 10
contro l the growth of the crown (such
as with fruit trees, see p.56), so it is
desirable for the scion 10 root as well.
There are two principal seasons for
grafting: late winter, which is suitable
for all con ifers, and late summer, in
which mainly blue spruces are grafted.
SELECTING ROOTSTOCKS AND SCIONS
The rootstock is usually a two-year-old
plant and shou ld be a species that is
compatible with the scion; ideally, use
one as closely related as possible. Grafts
involving different genera are possible -
larch (Larix) and Pseudotsuga can be
grafted 01110 each other - if necessary. In
addition, the stock must have a similar
SPLICED SID E-VENEER GRAFTING
wil l be an imbalance at the un ion and
graft incompatibilil)' may resu lt. Graft
incompatibility may occur at any stage.
For best results, pot the stocks some
months before grafting so that they are
well rooted (but 1101 potbound). With
plants grafted in late winter, bring the
stocks under cover in midwinter, then
pro1np1 them lo make root growth by
keeping them at 50-59°F (10-15°C). IL
is also possible Lo use bare-root stocks
for winter grafis.
The selection of scion material is
very important , because of the tendency
of sideshoois 10 grow only sidewa)•S (see
''Taking cuuings," p.70) . Take healthy
leading shoots of the previous or the
curren t year's growth, 3-6in (8-15cm)
long, preferably from the outer, upper
crown. Weaker shoolS of C)'presses and
pines will also grow well.
For winter grafting, collect scions
from fully dormant conifers in early 10
midwinter. Store in plastic bags in the
refrigerator al or below 39°F ( 4°C). For
summer grafting, collect scions in the
morning and keep them in plastic bags
in cool shade 10 avoid moisture loss.
The technique used is the spliced side-
veneer graft , as shown below. For each
graft, a rootstock and scion of similar
diameter is best. Trim off any sideshoots
and pinch off any needles from the base
of the stock but do not cul it back; this
is essential 10 draw the sap upward and
promote healing of the graft.
Working as near the base as possible,
cut a piece of wood rrom the stock (see
below) so it can receive the scion. Strip
the leaves from the lower stem of the
scion. Make ma1ching cuts 10 shape the
scion so it f'its the cul on the stock. Do
not cut into the scion 10 the pith - this
wil l hinder its ability 10 callus over.
For a successful graft, it is imperative
that the ca,nbiums (the thin layer of
regenerative cells, usuall)' green , just
beneath the bark) of both stock and
scion meet. If the stock cut is broader
than that on 1he scion , align the
cambiums on one side on ly. Be carefu l,
since there could be a difference in bark
thickness. The best union wil l often
fonn at the pointed end of the scion
(and if scion rooting occurs, the roois
usually come fron1 the base of the scion
on one or both sides).
Bind the graft as shown, but do not
apply too much tension. The purpose is
10 hold the cambiums together so that
the graft union can develop; the scion
just above the top of the cut and 1he
shoulder at the base of the cut are both
susceptible to being crushed.

CARING FOR GRAFTED CONIFERS

New· the rootswclt's bt,se
1 (here Pinus sylvcs1ns), cut
downwmrl obliq11dy. "q11cir1er
of the way into 1hr stem.
Align die prepared scion
4 (see inset) so ll,m it firs
snugly inw the cut 011 the.
stock It is im1,ortant that the
cambiums meer exactly.
Malie a l¼i11 Clem) 11/ng.
2 flat cm down rlie stem lO
finish CII rlre firsr cur. Remove
the slivc,- of wood (see inset).
8i11d rlrc stocl, cmd scion
5 firmly. bur 1101 roo rigluly.
wirh grnfting ra11c or a ¼in
() 011) wide rubber /)all{/. 8l11d
the entire cut (see inset).
Srrip off rhc re,.vcs from
3 rite bouom 2iu (5c,u) of
d1t· ~don. Cut ir ro nwrch the
stodi. Do not cw into 1111~pirh.
Plunge in a pol of moisr
6 11ecH to cover the graft.
L"bel: pur i11 ,, plasric-Jilm
rc,u or covered bench until <1
callus (inser) fonus.
The grafts must be kept moist and
warm: plunge pot-grown stocks in moist
peat or lay bare-root stocks in a tray of
moist peat; leave the foliage free. Place
the plants in a plastic-film tent or
covered case in full light, but not in
direct sun . Bouom heat of 64- 68°F
(18-20°C) or a hot pipe (see p.109) in
late winter will hasten union of the
graft but is not necessary in summer.
After 5- 6 weeks, the graft should
start 10 unite and form a callus. Admit
air gradually over the next month or
so 10 harden off the plants. After about
three months, they may be taken out of
the humid envi ronment. If bare-root,
the grafted planis may be polled or
lined out in a nursery bed 10 grow on.
Start removing the Lopgrowth of
the stock in one or two stages once the
scion has made ½-lin ( 1-2.Scm) of new
growth. With Abies and related coni fers,
head back the stock slowly, pinching
ou t new shoots rather than cuuing back
the stock, until the scion has grown
actively for about a year. The stock's
foliage is essential both to feed the roo is
and 10 draw sap from the roois 10 the
graft. Removing it too quickly risks
starving both roots and graft.

73
A-Z OF GARDEN T REES

A- Z OF GARDEN TREES
ABIES FIR
C UTTINGS in mid· 10 late
winter Ill
S EEDS in spring II
GRAFTING in mid- 10 la1e
winter or la1c )lnnmcr
Female cones or these
coni[ers are usually
Alm·, erect; male cones are
1101,m,a pendent. Hardwood
cuuings root only i[ taken from younger
trees. Seeds are reliable but s low. Rare
plants are best gra[ted.
CUTT INGS
Treat hardwood cuuings (see p.50) from
ripened current season's growth with
hormone rooting compound. Root in
a plastic-(Hm 1en1 with bonom heat or
59-68°F {15-20°C). Rooting is usuall)'
slow. After bud break in spring, recd the
cu nings to encourage strong growth.
SEEDS
Ripe cones break up, as [or cedars (see
p. 72). Soak in water for 30 hours, then
cold s1ra1i[y the seeds for 4-6 weeks
before sowing (see p.54). The seedlings
should appear after 3-4 weeks; the)' do
best at 50-59°F (10-15°C). Transplant
them in the second year.
GRAFTING
Fo r rootstocks, use an)' Abies of similar
thickness 10 the scions; the best are
A. alba, A. 11ord111a1111ia11a, and A. grandis.
Use a spliced side-veneer gra[t (see p.73),
and set the base of the scion below soil
mix level 10 encourage rooti ng fro1n
both s ides. Place in a plastic-film tent at
64-68°F ( 18-20°C) 10 call us. Head back
the rootstock graduall)' over two )'ears;
otherwise, the scion and roots ma)' die.
ACACIA MltvlOSA, WATTLE
GREENWOOD CUTTINGS in
e:;1rl>• lO midsummer U&
ROOT ClfTTINGS in early
lo midwimer u,
u, SEEDS in c:arly :,pring'
Most or 1he man)' fast-
growing trees in this
A<"'"' genus are rather tender.
lxlikyana Seeds are the onl)'
natural , and most effective, means of
increase. Cuuings give limited resul ts.
Young Acacia resen t root disturbance,
so raise seeds and cuttings in individual
containers and plant out a[ter 1-2 years
for Oowers in the third year.
ACER MAPLE
C UTTINGS in midspring l O earl)' summer U
Seeos in mid· to I.lie au1umn or -.pring il
GRAFTING in kue winter or mid· lO late :-.1..unmer ii
LAYERING i 1, mid· 10 la1c au1umn or c:.1rly spring j
There are deciduous and evergreen
species in this large genus. Snakebark
species, Acer cappcidocicum . and vigorous
A . palmmwn cultivars such as 'Osakazuki'
may be raised from cuuings, and species
maples from seeds. Layering is simplest
if only a few plants are needed; grafting
is useful for difficuh-10-root cultivars.
C UTTINGS
Take softwood cu uings in early sumn1er
(see p.52). Ahernativel)', lift a stock
plant , bring it into earl)' growth under
cover, and take cuuings in ,nidspring to
ensure they put on enough growth in
the first year to grow well in the s pring.
SEEDS
Some species, such as A. grisewn , do not
Take greenwood cunings (see p.52) with
a heel, rather than a wound, and insert
into cells or soil mix or rockwool. Some
species, such as A. mela11 oxylo11, can be
raised from root cuuings from mature
trees. Ren1ove roots about ¼in (5mm)
thick, wash them , and cut into l-2in
(2.5-Scm) lengths. Press horizontally
into pols of seed so il mix, cover with
more mix , and top with vermiculite.
The seeds have hard coats: abrade
them with sandpaper or soak in ver)'
hot water, then cool for 24 hours before
sowing (p.54) at a minimum of 59°F
(15°C). Transplan t into root-trainers.
for 48 hou rs before storing or sowing.
Sow [resh seeds in a seedbed (see p.55)
or in pots in a cold frame, or store in a
refrigerator (see p.53) and sow in spring.
Seeds germ inate at S0-59°F ( 10- 15°C),
but often 1101 until the second s pring.
GRAFTING
Spliced side-veneer graft cuhivars of
A. palmatum and A. japo11icw11 in winter
or summer (see p.58) . Chip- or T-bud
A. plata11oides and A. pseudoplata1111s (see
pp.60-62) in the fi eld in midsummer.
Moderate success may be achieved if
the scion and roo1s10ck are fro1n the
same genus, usually the sa,ne species.
Rare species such as A. 1110110 ma)' be
gra[ted 01110 common stocks such as
A. pla1a11oides. \/\leak-growing cultivars
of A. palmatwn thrive onl)' when grafted.
LAYERING
Nlany species and cultivars may be

...,.,_r~
,, "'-~~
set viable seeds unless several plan ts are simple layered (see p.64) , depending
nearb)'. If the winged seeds dr)' out, soak on sui table ground conditions.
-
':-~-:.,.,i:¥'
,,_·.
f: .,
-,]
,I ' .•:. J
AESCULUS H ORSE CHESTNUT, BUCKEYE

l<t1ves
•.
''
'-
. .
. .~ ,
. ,,
. ,,.~ ~,
VIGOROUS SHOOT
. CUTTINGS in early 10 midwinter i
SEEDS in m1clauuunn l
stocks than A. hippocastanum , which is
100 vigorous and forms a poor union,
Buoo1NG in mid· to lace summer U
anm1grd except with its own cuhivars.
,.,uli,dry
There are mostly trees in th is gen us,
Root cuttings may be taken [rom a few
species. Take 2-3in (5-Scm) long pieces GATH ERING SEEDS
of root, then treat as for Ailw11/1us root Garher ri1ie fr11i1s ():ere of
cuttings (see faci11g page). Gather and Aesculus hippocastanurn)
SUITABLE SHOOT \ VEAK SIIOOT sow the conkers as th ey ripen (see wl:e11 1licy Jedi to llie
SELECTING SCION MA1"ERIA L right). Germination occurs al 50-59°F ground. Remove rhe
To ensure a grafted plm11 (htre Abies koreana) ( l0- l 5°C). You may also space-sow husl:s; sow cu ouce.
has a rrcdihc l1abit, whc scions from shoots, seeds in a raised bed (see p.55). Altcn1<11ively, store •
wi1Jr lcllves arranged radially, that grow direc,fy Increase A. l1ippocasta11um cuhivars iu moist pelll at J7°F
from the trnnk (e1iicormic). Alterncuively, whe b)' chip-budding them onto seedling (3°C). then sow
strong sho<>1s wi1/1a whorl of 4-5 buds (sec top stocks 6in (15cm) above soil level (see i11dividu£11Jy in pots
inse1) from the outer upper crown. p.60). A. x caniea seedlings make beuer in lmc wintc,:

74

AILANTHUS T REE OF H EAVEN
CUTTINGS in c~uly wi nier J
SEEDS from hue summer lO e~-trl)' au1umn 1
SUCKERS from hue at11umn lO ~pnng ~
Only one species, Ailm1tlms altissima, is
someti mes intentio nally cultivated. The
winged seeds genninate readi ly if so,vn
as soon as they are ripe, o r cold stratify
for 60 da)'S at 41°F (5°C). Female trees,
which in some individ uals form clusters
of auractive red fruits, need to be
pollinated by a male plant, which has
TAKING ROOT C UTTI NGS OF ATLANTHUS
O THER GARDEN TREES
ACMENA Take semi-ripe cuuings in late
summer as fo r Mclrosi<lcros (see p.84) i.. Sow
fleshy seeds as for Dracaena (/>. 79) when
ripe or in spring l -
ADANSONIA Remove seeds from outer coating
when fruits are ripe: sow singly at once or
in spring in containers (see /1,54) in free-
a,
draining soil m ix 70°F (2 1°C) i..
AGATHIS (syn. Dwmnara} Sow seeds a,
50-55°F ( l O-l3°C} in early spring l,
AGONIS Sow seeds in spring as
for GreviUea (see /J,80} l , \ \/h ip
or side-veneer grafl (p.58}
A.flexuosa ·variegata' onw
A. fle,most1 seedlings u.
ALLOCASl'ARINA Sow seeds (sec
foul-smelling flowers. Taking root
cuu ings from an existing female pla nt
is the best method: take and prepare
them as shown below. They should
root in 3-4 1nonths. Line o ut the
rooted cuuings in a nursery bed (or
pot them) in late spring and plant out
after the second winter. A. altissima
often prod uces suckers; these should be
severed from the tree. If a sucker has a
good set of roots, replant it elsewhere.
Choose a 1ree 1'w1 is lielllthy a11d growi11g
1 vigorously. Carefully u11cover some of 1he
mots (see left) by loose11i11g 1l1e 10/ISOil will,
"forl1. Looi, for roots 1hm w·e abo111 ½in (1cm)
in diameter. Dig 0111 1he soil below 1he root.
Using 1ir11ners or long-hmu/lecl loppe,·s,
2 remove a section of root m least l 2in (30cm)
long, malling t1 deem. s1raigh1 cul. S1,allc off the
excess soil. bur do not wash du: mot.
C111 1hc root into 2in (5011) le11g1hs (see
3 below). wirh rhr '°/I ends s1rnigl11 <1111/ 1hr
bottom e11cls <mgltd so l11at you lmow whid1
way up to insert the curtings. Push ec1ch cutting,
cmgled end downward, verticc1lly into rooting
medium so that the JlcH encl is cm,ered. j ust
below the s111face (sec left). IV111cr a11d label the
cuttings, then ,,Jacc in,, cooJ place to root.
Angled Ciel
1
......
t>.54} in spring a, 59°F ( 15°C) i..
A~1EL.\NCt-11ER Take greenwood cuttings (see
p.52) of c ultivars u. Sow fleshy-coated seeds
as for Sorbus (see p.90} J.. (Sec also p.118.}
A~UIERSTIA NOBILIS Seeds orten infertile; sow
singly (see p.54} a, 70°F (21°C) in spring l -
ANACARDJUM Sow fle~hy seeds as
for Dract1en11 (see p.79} in spring,.
ANGOPHORA Sow seeds in ear1y
spring as E11c11lypws (see p.80} J..
ANNONA (syn. Cl,erimoya} Sow
seeds fres h (sec p.54) in spring or
dry in spring a, 70°F (21°C) in very
fcr1 ile soil mix l ,
A McLANCHIER AStA'ftCA
A BI ES - A NNONA
A LBIZIA MIMOSA
CumNGS in cttrly to mid~urnmer ,u
SEEDS in early spring l
Mosl of the trees in this genus (syn.
Paraseria111hes) are quite lender, bu t
the silk tree (A lbizia j ulibrissin) is much
hardier (lo Zo ne 6). Saplings flower in
three years.
Greenwood cuuings (see p.52) yield
variable results. Take them with a heel,
treat with hormo ne rooting c01npound,
and insert into rockwool plugs for the
best results.
In the wild, the hard seed coats
\\~thstand long periods o r dessicatio n.
Gather the seeds from pealike pods and
soften their coats in very hot water
befo re sowing; allow to cool for 24 hours.
Sow inlo containers (see p.54) at a night-
time minimum of 59°F (15°C) . Soon
after germinatio n, transplant into rool-
trainers to avoid disturbing taproots.
ALNUS ALDER
CUTTINGS in la1e spring U
S EEDS in aulumn or l:.ue winler i
GRAFTlNG in late: wimer U
Vigorous species, such as Alr11,s glut inosa,
A. n,bra (syn. A. orego11a), A. x spaethi i,
and thei r cultivars, can be increased
from softwood cuttings (see p.52).
Gather the seeds in midautumn (see
below). Sto re them al 37°F (3°C) in
sealed plastic bags for 180 days, then
sow (see p.54) in containers LO gerininate
at 50-59°F (I O-l 5°C). Allernatively,
sow fresh seeds in a raised bed (see
p.55). Avoid windy days for outdoor
sowing, because lhe seeds are very ligh t
and can blow away easil)'·
vVhip graft o r spliced side-veneer
graft (see p.58) culti vars of A. glu1i11osa
o r A. i11ca11a o nto A. glutinosa rootstocks
in 3½ or Si n (9 or 13cm) pots. Take
scions fro m the previous years growth.
If the stock girth is much grealer than
that of the scion, an apical-
wedge graft (see Laburnum,
p.82) is suitable.
ALDER FRUITS
Alders bear male and female car kins on one tree.
Female cntltins develop inw woody, co11cliJ,e
frnits (hue of Alnus incana). Gml,cr these
when 1hey wm brown ir1 autwm1. Keep rhe frnirs
in a ww,n, clry ,,Jacr until they release rhe seeds.
75
A-Z OF GARDEN TREE S
ARAUCARIA
Seeos in early au1 u!'nn J.
These are curious-looking large trees,
includ ing the monkey puzzle tree
(Arcmcaria araucana, srn. A. imbricata).
Male trees have large, con ical pollen
cones, and remales have smaller, round
cones that disintegrate after 1- 2 years Lo
scauer the seeds. These wil l not
germ inate i[ they dry out.
ARBUTUS STRAWBERRY TREE, MANZANITA
C UTTINGS in late summer 10 earl)' autumo u,
Seeos in l:uc winter to early spring j
Most are tree species, including Arbutus
andracl111e, A. 111e11ziesii, and
A. w iedo. A. x andrac'111oides rare!)'
produces rruits in cooler cl imates,
so try semi-ripe cuuings (see p.51) .
They need high humidity and bouom
heat of 64-70°F (\8-21°C) LO
root. Use acidic soil mix.
Gather the fruits of other
species and soak them for several
days in warm water LO remove the pulp.
Sto re cleaned seeds in moist sand in the
refrigerator for 60 days (see p.53).
BETULA BIRCH
C umNGS in midsp1·ing 10 earlr -,ummcr U
Seeos in midsummer or late winter!
GRAFTING in la1c winier to early spring U
O nly seeds from species of trees in th is
genus come true, so birches are most
often root ed from cuuings or are gra[ted ,
but care must be taken wi th the choice
or rootslocks.
CUTTINGS
Take softwood cutLings (see p.52), and
feed regu larly o nce the)• have rooted to
GATHERtNG BIRCH SEEDS
In midsumme,; breal: a ripe carhi11 into a 11la.stic
bag. Place the seeds mu/ chaff 011 a 1ray m11I
gently blow off rlie chaff to leave rl,c seecls l><,hi11tl.
76
Chill fresh , ripe seeds in a bag of slightly
damp peat or sand at 34-39°F ( l-4°C)
for 3-12 weeks. \1/hen the seeds begin
to germinate, sow in pots (see />.54).
Keep in a bright, frost-free place at
about 59°F (15°C). The seed leaves of
most species remain below ground as
the shoot or adult fol iage emerges
(hypogeal germination, p.20).
Sow into containers (see
p.54) and keep them at
60-70°F ( 15-2 1°C). If
the seeds fail LO germinate,
chi ll ror two mon ths or
leave outdoors in autumn
to germ inate the next spring.
AllllUTUS UNEDO
The strmvbcny lil~c fruils follow the white
flowers in tmlumn and whe a year to
rit>en lO red. Gather wul deem d iem as
soon as rhey chtmge colo,:
ensure they put on su ffi cient growth in
the first season; otherwise, they may fai l
LO grow the following spring.
SEEDS
Gather the seeds (see below) , d ry, and
sto re them in a refrigerator (see p.53),
then sow in containers (see p.54) 10
germinate at 50- S9°F {IO- J 5°C). Fresh
seeds may also be sown in a raised
seedbed (see p.55). The seeds are very
ligh t, so avoid sowing o n a windy day.
SELF·SOWN BIRCH SEEDLING
8ircl,es self-sow readily, so loo/1 for scetlli11gs i11
late spring. Trm1.spla111 wl1en 11,e seedling (J1cre
of Betula pcndula) lws 2-'I leaves.
BRACHYCHITON
BOTTLETREE, K URRA]ONG
S EMl· RIPE CUTTINGS in summer J.U
H ARDWOOD cumNGS in earl)' autumn U
SEEDS in spring!
These are evergreen or deciduous trees.
Both types of cutLings need humidity
and bouom heat Lo root successfu lly.
Sow seeds fresh at 61-64°F ( 16-18°C),
singly into root-trainers or transplant
seedlings as soon as possible.
C ALOCEDRUS INCENSE CEDAR
C UTTINGS in la1e summer 10 mida.utumn U
Seeos in spring,
There are three species in this genus.
Take 4in ( 10cm) semi-ripe cuuings (see
p.70). with or without a heel, for best
resu lts. They may be set outdoors, but
botLom heat or about 64°F ( l8°C) in a
closed case improves rooti ng, which ma)'
take until early summer. Gather ripe,
yellow-brown cones in autumn. Sto re
the seeds (see p.72) until spring; sow in
containers (see p.54). Keep at 59°F
( l 5°C) LO speed germ inati on, but delay
transplanting until the following spring.
GRAFTI NG
lvlosLbirches are grafted onto Berul«
pe11dula, but incompatibility may be a
problem. If possible, use seedling stocks
of B. nigra for ornamental species such
as B. albosi11e11sis, 8. en11cmii. and 8. u1ilis.
Wh ip graft or spliced side grart the
plant (see p.58) . To avoid sap bleeding at
the union, keep the soil mix on the dry
side unti l the scion buds break. Pot on
o nce the graft takes so that the scion
grows well in the first season.
AFTERCARE OF C RAFTED 81RCH TREES
E11co11rage cal/11si11g of grafted pla11ts (here
Bctula utilis var. jacquc1noruii) by placing them
i11 a · !Jot pipe ·· (see p. 109).

C ARICA PAPAYA
Seeos m ,prmg U
This is really an a rborescent herb. Both
a male and female plant , or a bisexua l
plant , arc needed for the commonly
grown spec ies, Caric,i papaya, to fruit.
Sow the seeds fresh (see p.54) or in
spring in a seedbed or in tube pots to
avoid disturbing the roots; they s hould
germinate readil)' at 64°F (18°C). Root
sucke rs may be detached in early spri ng
or early autun1n,
C ATALPA I NDIAN BEAN TREE
GREENWOOD CUTTINGS 111 early IO midsummCI' U
ROOT CUTTINGS in early 10 midwmlcr l
SEEOS in e.1rly 10 midspring or 111 ~Ullnnn l
B UDDING in midsummer U
G reenwood c uttings (see JJ.52) of
these trees have limited success; take
them with a heel and root in rockwool
plugs. Root c uttings are best taken
only fro,n species, as for Ailanthus (see
p.75). Gather the seeds (see below) and
store d r)' in sealed plast ic bags a t room
temperatu re. Sow (see p.54) at 59-70°F
(1s-21°c) .
Chip-bud (see p.60) C. bignonioides
and C. x en,besce11s cuhivars 6in ( 15cm)
above soil level onto pot- or field-grown
stocks of C. bignonioides .
C. bignonioides 'Aurea'
ma)' be to p-worked,
budding 2-3 buds onto
a 6ft (2m ) s tem to
create a s tandard .
CAT,I LPA SEEDPODS
Gmher the green pods
os they ripen to
brown, bcfol'e they
split and shed their
seeds. 1ht·y may
split when dry, or
you C{m cut them opn1
ro ext met rhc seeds.
CEDRUS C EDAR
S EEDS in spriog I Rot l 1SANTHIJS SPl:CIOSUS
GRAFTING in late :,ummcr or inid- 10 l..nc wimcr ii
The species may be g rown from seeds
gathered from three-year-old cones (see
pp. 71-2). Break the wings off the seeds
before storing (see p.72); cold moist
stratify (see JJ.54) for two weeks before
sowing in pots (see p.54) a t a
ten1pera1ure of about 59°F (15°C).
Graft cuhivars. especially C. libani
'Glauca', on to two-year-old seedlings
such as C. deodara . Keep the stock in
active growth until midsummer; spliced
side-veneer gra ft (see p. 73) a scion from
vigorous shoots of the new growth .
C ERCIS REDBUD
, ,..., .. . CUTTINGS m early 10
.. .,
....._ _,. Pll ;, ,<
~~ it • ... ..~. midsummer UI
t . • r
C
SEEDS in miclwin1cr
.~• '-""
. .-
' 1 G RAFTING in midwinter
. . .. -.. - , 'f.
·(J
- I- •
The trees in this genus
are not easy to
propagate. Try taking
Cc.·rcis sili<1uos1rum greenwood cu nings as
'Oodnon1· for Acacia (see /J.74) .
Gather seeds from m id- to late autumn
and soak (see rig/11). Sow in con ta ine rs
(see p.54) and gern1ina1e a t 59- 70°F
(15-21°C). It is possible to apical-wedge
graft scions on to one-year-old pot-grown
OTHER GARDEN TREES
AR01s1,1 Take semi-ripe cuuings (see p.5/ )
in late summer U- 5-0w neshy seeds as for
Dracac11a (JJ. 79) in s pring l-
ARTOCARPUS Take semi-ripe cu1tings (see
p.51 ) with bouom hea1 of70°F (2 !°C) in
late spring l-
ATHROTAXIS Semi-ripe cuttings (see p.70) in
summer l- Sow seeds (pp.5-1--5) in seedbed
or pots in late winter or early spring~
AUSTROCl'.ORL':> (t-111 r:NS1$ (syn. Libocetlrns
chilc11sis). Semi-ripe cuuings (see p.70) in
summer U- Sow seeds (1,p.54-.5) in seedbed
or in pots in hue winter or early spring,.
BA(KHOl 'SIA As for E11c<1lypws (sec p.80) 1-
BANKSIA See p. 119.
BARKLYA Sow seeds fresh in amumn or
scarify to sow in spring (sec p.54): takes
8- 10 )'Cars 10 flower J,1. Take semi-ripe
cuuings (tJ.5 r) in late sununer to autum n 1.
Air layer (p.64) any Lime U.
8,,UlllNlA Sow seeds as for Acacia (sl'.c p.74)
in spring &- V\lhip graft (p.58) or spliced
side-veneer graft (p.58) in spring U-
BERTIIOI I Fl'I,\ l·X(MSA Remove seeds (Brazil
nuts) from husk~ sow singly in frce·draining
soil mix al 70°F ( 21 °C) in spring!. \\/hip
graft (sec 11.58) or spliced side-veneer graf,
(p.58) in early springU.
81xA OR1:11ANA Sow seeds as for Acacia (sec
1>.74). but at 70°F (21°C) !- Spliced side-
veneer graft (p.58) or whip graft (p.58)
scions 1aken from nowering trees in spring
to obtain flowering plants more quickly - in
1-2 )'Cars, instead of five U
Sow seeds as for
Acaci<1 ~ec p. 74). but at 70°F (21°C)
BOMBAX Remove: seeds fro1n husk: sow
sing ly in pois (see 1>.54) in free-draining soil
mix at 70°F (2 1°C) as soon as ripe 1-
BRoussoNETIA Take greenwood cunings as
for Magnolia (see p.83) from
early to midsummer Sow u.
seeds as for Conius (p. 78)
in spring 1, Spliced side-
veneer graft (p.58) or
8 ERTIIOLLETIA EXCELSA
SEEDS ANO HUSK
ARA UCA RIA - CERCIS
seedlings of C. sili<11wstrum , but
i, these may be difficult to o btain.
,u Bring them under cover a few
weeks before grafting as for
laburn um (see p.82) .
C ERCIS SEEDPODS
These irees bl'l,mg to the pea
family a11cl 11rocl11ce ftaucned
seedpocls (here of Ccrcis ~
siliquaslrum) mul very hard- 1
coated seeds. Soah 1hr seeds in vc,y hot
wmcr and cool for 24 hou, s. Su·cHify in 1l1e
refrigerator for8-l2 wt:ehs, d1e11 sm,i
whip g raft (p.58) IJ. p<l/>yrifcl'<I cultivars U-
8ROWNEA Take 6ft (2m) hardwood cu1t ings
as for Salix (see p.89) l, 5-0w seeds as for
Acacia (J>.74), but a l 70°F (21°C) l-
CAfoSALl'lNIA Seeds as for Acacw (see p.74) !-
Take softwood cuuings (p.52) in spring U-
Spliced side-veneer graft (1>.58) or whip
graft (p.58) in spring U,
GILLITRIS Sow seeds (see p.54) a1 55--64°F
( 13-18°C) in spring l-
CALODENl)RUM Take semi•ripe cuuings (see
p.5 f) in late summer or early autumn,. Sow
seeds as soon as ripe (p.54) at 70°F (21°C);
takes quite a few years lo Oowcr 1-
CALPURNl,1 Seeds as for Acaci11 (sec p. 74) l·
CARPl\!US Take greenwood cuttings (sec
,,.52) in early summer u. Sow seeds in
seedbed (11.55) in au1umn 1- \\/hip graf1
(p..58) in winter: top-work C. bcrulus for a
weeping standard U-
CARYA Sow seeds as for jugla11s (sec p.81) !-
\\/hip-and-tongue graft as for juglcms Ul-
C,1»1A Sow seeds as for Aet1cia (see p. 74) 1-
CASTA~EA Sow seeds as for 1\esculus (sec
p.74) l- Graf1 as for Mcrlus (p.84) U- Chip-
bud as for Mnlus l-
CASUAIUN,\ Take semi-ripe t·uuings as for
Mc1rosiclems (see J>.84) ,. Sow seeds as for
Acaci<1 (p.74) l-
CE1BA Tease seeds from silky fiber (kapok)
of seed heads; sow singly in containers (see
a,
11.54) in free-draining soil mix 70°F
(21°C) in Spring l-
(Et TIS Sow seeds as for Zellwva (see p .9/) i-
\>Jhip graf1 as for 8e111la (seefaci11g 1>age)
l- omo seed-raised stocks of C. occide11rnlis U-
C1:lv\·10:-i1A Sow seeds as for Acacia (see
JJ. 74) l , Bud c ultivars as for Cirn,s (p. 78) in
spring or midsummer U-
CERCIDIPMYI.LUM JAPONICUM Sow seeds as for
Acer (sec l'.74) l- Graft form a pe11dul11111
as for Coryfus avellc11w ' Pendola'
(p.78). 0 1110 seed-raised stock U.
Simple layer as fo r
Mag11olia (p.83) i-
77
A-Z OF GARDEN TREES
CHAMAECYPARIS CYPRESS
CUTTINGS in lalc summer
midautumn l
lO
SEEDS in spri1tg I
GRAFTING in late w i nier U may take 6-9 months.
Propagate species of
these trees from seeds
or euitings. Some
Chamaccypm·" dwarf or slow-growing
uooiluuo,,i, 'Pe,,lula' cuhivars do not root
freely, so they must be grafted.
C UTTINGS
Cuuings root at ahnost any time, but
4-6in (10-15c,n) semi-ripe cuuings (see
p.51 ) are best, provided the base is not
too woody. Insert into rooting medium
and keep humid on a 1nist- or covered
bench or under plastic fihn (see p.44)
CITRUS
CUTTINGS in summer U CUTTINGS in lale spring or earl)• summer U
SEEDS in summer U
GRAFTtNG in late :-.\1t111ncr or early :nuumn u,
Citrus cuhivars arc grafted onto
rooistocks for vigor, disease resistance,
and early crops. Cuuings or seeds are
worth a try, but these may be prone to
phytophthora root diseases.
CUTTINGS
Some citrus, for example lemons (Ci!nts
limon ), root more easil)' than others
from semi-ripe cuuings ( see p.51 ).
SEEDS
Unusuall)', citrus produce seeds with
several embryos, some of which are
asexually derived (apomictic), so the
seedlings are clones of the parent. Sow
seeds in pots (see p.54); weed out punr
or very vigorous sexual seedlings. The
plants should flower in seven years.
GRAFTING
Citrus is often grafted onto a Japanese
biller orange seedling (Poncirus trifoliata).
Take a ch ip-bud (see p.60) and put under
the bark as in T-budding (see p.62).
LEMONS (CITRUS LIMON)
As well cu: lemons, Ci1ru.s includes gral'efruits.
limes. tangerines. oranges. ,wnu11uus. mul d1eir
hyl/rids; tliey "re all quite tender.
78
with bouo,n heat of about 68°F (20°C),
but no higher, 10 promote rooting. This
SEEDS
Extract seeds in autumn from one-year-
old cones; store in the refrigerator for 60
days at 41°F (5°C) unti l sowing (see
p.72) with bouom heat of 59°F (15°C).
Transplant the seedlings in midsummer.
GRAFTING
Spliced side-veneer graft cuhivars such
as C. lawsoniana 'Lutea' and C. obtusa
'Crippsii' onto sligh tl)' thicker two-year-
old seedlings of C. lawsoniana (sec p.73).
\.Vith bo1tom heat of 68°F (20°C), the
graft should callus after several weeks.
CORNUS D OC\VOOD
SEEDS in l..uc wimcr or carlr spring U
G RAFTING ill lah~ w i nter' U CRYPTOMERIA
There are small, deciduous or evergreen
trees in this genus. Those with
variegated foliage are best taken fro,n
softwood cuuings, as for maples (Acer)
(see l'· 74) or for quicker results,
grafted. Use seed-raised Con1us
jlorida or C. house, as rootstocks
with whip (see p.58) or spliced
side-veneer graft (see p.58).
Raise C. mas and C. 11ut1aflii
from seeds (see
below).
Dogwoods lur\'c small,
round fruirs; some (IYC edible
ancl sirawberrylilu·, such c1s 1lrosc of Corn us
'Porlocll' (above). Gml1er rhe ripe f ruits and
ll'Cm rhe seeds as fo r Arbutus (see p.76) .
CORYLUS H AZELNUT
Cun1NGS in early :md mids ummer U
Seeos in hue winter !
GRAFTING in hue winter U
LAYERING i,,
mid. and la1e autumn ,\
Trees in this genus include the nut-
bearing Corylus avellana and
C. maximci , which may be raised from
seeds (see p.54). Most of their cultivars
are usually propagated by greenwood
cuuings (see p.52). They can also be
simple layered (see p.64) from stock
planlS; cut back the stock planlS hard
in early spring of the previous year 10
obtain vigorous shoolS for layering.
Most hazels may be grafted onto two-
year-old C. avellmia seedlings or cuuings
CRATAEGUS HA\VTHORN
SEEDS in micl:nnumn or late winter!
BUDDING in mid• to late summer U
Gather fruilS of the many trees in the
genus in midautumn; the best time is
while they are still green and before any
gennination inhibitors develop. Soak
them in warm water for several days to
clean the flesh off the seeds. Sow into
containers (see p.54) and place in a
sheltered site, or sto re in a refrigerator
(see p.53) and sow in late winter.
Germination occurs at 50-59°F
(10-15°C) but is erratic, so keep the
seeds until the second spring.
IL is quicker 10 graft if only one or
two plants are required. Several species
make good seed-raised stocks at two or
three years old, such as Crawegus 011s-
gafli, C. laevigata (5)'11 . C. oxyacantlw),
or C. monogy11a. Chip-bud in the field
6in (15cm) from soil level (see p.60).
J APANESE CEDAR
CUTTINGS in late summer 10 earl)' autumn j
SEEDS m ~prirlg'
GRAFTING in l:ue winter iu
Root 3- 5in (S-13cm) semi-ripe
cuuings of this single species as for
Chmnaecyparis (see above). This is an
unusual conifer in being able to grow
new shoots from the base if cut down
(coppiced); the shoots will root readily
as cun ings.
The solitary female cones ripen to
brown; gather the seeds in autumn (see
p.71 ). Store dry, then stratify in damp
peal in the refrigerator for three weeks
before sowing (see p.54). Bouom heat
of 59-68°F (15-20°C) aids gennination.
Some dwarf forms do not have
sufficient cuuings material; spliced side-
veneer graft (sec p. 73) scions onto pol-
grown roolStocks. Keep at 68°F (20°C)
for a few weeks unti l the graft calluses.
HAZELNUTS
Cather die nuts c1s soon Wi d1ey fall. store in
moist I"'"' t11 37°F (3°C) fo r 2- 6 months, rrnd
sow inro indiviclual co11rai11ers.
by wh ip (see p.58) or spliced side-veneer
techniques (see p.58) . C. avellana
'Contorta' and 'Pendula' must always be
grafted ; whip or apical-wedge graft (see
p.58) the scion onto a 6ft (2111) stem of
C. maxima or C. avella11a. Cut out any
suckers from the stock as they appear.
 CHAMAE CYPARIS - ERIOBOTRYA

X C U PRESSOCYPARIS DAVIDIA HANDKERCHIEF TREE

CuntNGS in n11d· t0 hue :,um,ncr U
Most com,n on ly cu ltivated are cu ltivars
of the Leyland cypress (x Cupressocypa ,is
ley1andii , 5)'11. Cupressus leylandii). For
best results, take 6 in (15cm) semi- r ipe.
cuttings (see p.70) from slight))' shaded
basal s hoots; treat as for Chamaecyparis
(see facing page).
CUPRESSUS CYPRESS
CUTTINGS in lalc wmter or hue :,ummcr l~
SEEDS m late wmlcr or sprmg,
GRAFTING m fotc winter U
Most of the cultivars o f these trees ,nay
be rooted from cuttings (see p.70). For
best results, take 3-4in (8-lOcm) green
shoots in late winter and root under
mist with bottom heat of 68°F (20°C).
Cuttings may also be rooted under
cover in su1nm cr.
SEEDS in spring UI
Davidia i11 volucra1a is also called the
dove or ghost tree. Clean ripe fruits;
sow (see p.54) at once, singl)'; keep at
70°F (21 °C) for three months, then
move outdoors. Seeds a re doubly
d ormant and ma)' not germinate for
two winters. F lowers in ten years.
Ripe, two-year-old con es are difficult to
iden tify. Look for a branch bearing three
s izes of cone and choose the largest, or
find cones borne on shoots well back
from the g rowing tips. Seeds (see p.54)
germ inate best at 59°F (15°C) .
Certain cu ltivars do not root easily
from cutti ngs, s uch as C . macrocarpa
'Goldcrest'; these may be better spliced
side-veneer grafted (see p.73) .
C un1NGS any time l
Seeos in early spring!
The treelike species
of this gen us are g rown
for thei r foliage.
Variegated c ultivars
Drnccrnw must be increased fro m
mwxim11t1 'Tricolor· cu ttings to retain the
variegation . It ta kes three to five years
to obtain a good-sized plant.
CUTTINGS
Take stem cuttings from healthy, strong
sideshoots and s plit, as shown b elow,
for the optimum number o f new plants.
Alternatively, insert who le sectio ns of
stem vertically. Leaf-bud cutti ngs also
root well (see below). Instead of sharp
sand, you may u se a free-draining soil
mix or rockwool. Cuttings root within
8-12 weeks.

OTHER GARDEN TREES
CHRYSOPI-WUUM Root hardwood cuuings
(see p.50) of well-ripened shoo1s in high
heat and humidity in late summer 10
autumn 1- Sow seeds (p.54) in spring~
C1NNAMOMt'r,,1 Take semi.ripe cuuings (see
p.51) at any time 1. Extract seeds from Oesh)'
fruits in spring~ sow immediaLely (p.54) at
55-{H°F ( l 3-l 8°C) i·
C1n1AREXl'LLM Take semi-ripe cu11ings
(see p.51) at any time I- Sow seeds as for
Ci11namom1,111 !,
CUOR,\STIS Take root tunings as for Acacia
(see ,,.74) l- Seeds as fo r Ccrcis (p.77) I-
Cu,n1RA Take semi-ripe cu11ings of
evergreens as for Arbuws (sec p.76) 11- Take
greenwood cu1tings of deciduous species
(p.52) in early summer u. Sow seeds as
for Rhododc11clrcm (p. J38) !- Layer as for
Magnolia (p.83) 1-
CoccoLOBA Extract seeds from ripe fleshy
fruits; SOW at once (sec p.54) at 70°F (2 1°C) •.
Simple layer ripe stems at any time (p.64) ,.
COLVILLE.A 1v,cn-1os..., Seeds ohcn infertile;
sow (sre p.54) as soon as ripe. singly in
containers at 70°F (2 1°C) I-
CoRot,1 Take semi-ripe cu11ings (src p.51)
al any time i· Sow seeds (p.54) when ripe•·
CoROl'l.tNF . As for Oracae11c, (see rigl11) •·
CoRYNOC,\RPU~ Sow seeds as for Or«caeJU~
(see righr) 1- Semi-ripe cullings. primarily
of variegated forms. as for Arburus (p.76) II-
+ CR,\TALGOMC5PIL~S \Vhip-and-tongue graft
as fo r Medus (see />.84) II- Chip-bud as for
Craraegus (facing page) 1-
CRINODENDRON Take semi-ripe
cu11ings as fo r flex (see p.81)
in 1ate surnmer u.
CVDONIA \.Vhip-and-
tonguc graft, chip-bud, or
T-bud onto clonal cydonia
SEEDS
Ex1rac1 the seeds from the berries (see
p.53) and sow in contai ners (see p.54)
rootstocks as for Pyn,s (see p.88) 11- at 68-80°F (20-25°C). Gennination
CYPHOMANDR..\ Take sof1wood cu1tings (sec should take 4-6 weeks. Transplant the
p.52) in spring•· Sow seeds as for Oracae11a seedlings into individual
(1igl1r) in spring l- pots; once settled, grow
DACR\DIVM Take semi•ripc cuuings (see. 011 at 59°F ( l 5°C).
p. iO) rrom mid- to late summer II- Sow
seeds (p.54) in mid- to late summer 1-
Dtt.ONIX Sow seeds as for Acacia (see p.74).
but at i0°F (21°C) 1-
011.LENIA Exiract seeds from fleshy fruits
when ripe; s<>w (see p.54) at 70"F ( 21 °C) !-
01osrYROS Male and female persimmons
needed for seeds; sow as soon as ripe after
removing seed coats (see p.54) 11- \.Vhip- LEAF·BUO
and-tongue graft (p.59). chip-bud (p.60) or CUTTING
T-bud (p.62) cultivars onto seedling stocks Ta/,e c, 2- .Jin
mid-to hue summer U- (5-8cm) sccrio11 of
OoMBEVA Take semi-ripe cuuings (sec p.51) stem. with one leaf.
in late summer u. Sow seeds as soon as ripe cuuingjusr above a node. Fm a pan with moist,
in spring (p.54) at 70°F (21°C) 1. srurrl' sand. d1cn insert the stem vertically so thm
ELAEOCARPUS Take semi-ripe cunings (sec it is lwlf-buriccl. li·i11111,e lec,jby Jwlf irs leng1h
/J.51 ) in late summer II- Sow seeds as for to avoid moist11re loss. \\late,; label, anti lieep in
Oracanra (rigln) in spring l , bright sh«clc m 64-lOOF (18-21°C) unril roorecl.
Et.EUTMEROCOCCUS (syn. AcanrlwpancL<)
Take softwood cuttings (sec p.52) in late
spring 1- Take root cu11ings as for Ailanthus
(p. 75) •· Sow seeds as for Sorbus (p.90) 1-
Use e1 lwlf poi
EMOOTHRIUM Take root cuttings as for or ,xm: too
Robinia (see ,,.89) 11- Sow seeds as for great " depth
Grevillcc, (p.80) •· Separate suckers as for of )Oil mix or
Populus (1,.86); pot suckers sand ~,ta)
a, 5o•F c1o•cJ 1. lc,~d 10 rot
ERtOBOTRl'A Sow loquat
seeds fresh (sec p.54) in STEM CUTTINGS
late spring I, Chip-bud Remove sections of a
(p.60) or T-bud (p.62) 1,eahl,y stem, e"ch with one or 1wo nodes. Slice
onto clonal cyclonia roo1s1ock each section in two lengthwise with c, sharp
in mld- lO late summer 1, 1111ifc. if rhe pi1h is 111ois1. root i11 111oisr. shm7,
sand to avoid rot; if it is dry, use a Jrec·drai11ing
CYDONU OBLONGA rooting medium. Lay the c1t11i11gs wowuled sides
clown. Label. tltc11 rrecn c,s leaf-bucl c11rri11gs.

79
A-Z OF GARDEN TREES
EUCALYPTUS Gut.,
Seeos io early spring i
T h e fasl-gro wing trees in lhe gen us are
s uilable for Zones 9-10. ln lhe wild,
the woody seed capsules persist on the
tree, so lhey can be gathered any lime.
If they do no t split easily, the seeds may
be immature. Eucaly ptus seeds be nefit
from a cold period al 37-4l°F (3-5°C)
for two months (see p.54).
They dislike root disturbance,
so transplant or sow in to root-
traine rs (see below). Seeds
germinate quickly at 59-68°F
( 15-20°C). Plant out seed lings
in 12-15 months.
. . ......,...
..•· ,. ~
. :;,,Wir
EXl'RACTING SEEDS
Leave ripr woody seed capsules
(licre of Eucalyptus pauciOora subsp.
niphophila) i11 tr ww111, 1hy 11l1,cc for
1-2 wecl1s until t/1cy splir opc11 w
,.dr<isc seeds llmlfi,u· brow,, cluiff.
SOWING SEEDS IN ROOT-TRAINERS
Fill the roor-1rai11ers wid1 soilless seed mix. Sow
u pi11d1 of seeds into each ceH. Lightly CQV(T
wid1 sie\led mix and a Jl1i11 layer of fine gri1.
\Varcr and label. 1'Jii11 eacl, cell ro 011c sccdli11g.
FAGUS B EECH
SEEDS rrom lall' :,ummcr to l:uc .1\tlumn or in
late winter!
GRAFTING in late wimcr or earl)' spring U
The s implest wa)' to grow these la rge-
growing trees is from seeds. Gather the
nuts when ripe and sow at once o utdoors
(see 1>.55), or s tore in the refrigerator for
six weeks before sowing in late win ter
(see p.54) to avoid losing seeds 10
rodents. Germination is at 50°F (10°C).
Two- or three-year-old seedlings of
the European beech , Fagus sylvaLica, are
often used as rootst0cks for whip or
spliced side grafting (see p.58) . Beeches
have thin bark, so spliced s ide-veneer
grafting (see p.58) is also su itable. Graft
at soil level for a n eat graft union - a
top-worked graft on a tall s tem may
look ugly. Tie the growing scion into a
split stake so that it grows s traight. Stake
weeping forms with a sturdy Slake of the
desired length of the mature stem.
80
FICUS FrG
HARDWOOD CUTTING$ in l:uc
mmunn or lalc winter i
SEMI-RIPE CUTTINGS all year
round 1
LEAF-SUD cun1NGS all year
round,
AIR LAYERING 10 hue alll\.111111
or spring l
Frew• d11~1ict1
'Doc..scheri ' A few of the tree species
are fairly hardy, such as the edible fig
(Ficus c,irica), but most are tender. Figs
may be in creased from th e appropriate
type of cutting, but a ir layering is easy
if o nly one or two plants are requ ired.
C UTTINGS
Take hardwood c uttings of F. carica,
tie into bundles (see p.51) , and
keep in frost-free conditi ons in
autum n; large cuttings up to
3ft (90cm ) lo ng 1113)' be rooted
direct. ln winte r, root standard
cuttings in pots a l 50-59°F
(I0-15°C). Semi- ripe cutt ings
(see p.51) of tender evergreens
can be taken all year. Species
with thick stems, s u ch as the
Indian rubber p lant, F. elastiai,
FRAXINUS A SH
S eeos m mid- lo lalc :1t11t11nn i
GRAFTING in lalc winier or early spring Ul
Seeds of these trees are doubly dormant,
so the)' need a period or warm m oist
stratification (see p.54).
line out o ne-year-old seedlings of
Fl'axinus excelsior in a nursery bed and
use as rootstocks fo r whip-and-tongue
grafting (see p.59) after ano ther 1-2
years. Graft close to the soil just before
the buds b reak in spring. Top-work
' Pendula' at the desired height onto four-
ycar-old s tocks. Al1e rna1ive ly, whip graft
(see p.58) o nto pot-grown s tocks.
GINKGO M A IDENHAIR TREE
C uTitNGS in hue spring lo c:nly summer JU
SEEDS m hue winter 1
GRAFTING in hue wi111er U
There is a single species, Ginligo biloba;
a male an d female tree are needed to
produce seeds. The p lum like fruits o f
the female tree have an unpleasant smell
when ripe. Gather these in mid-au1u1nn
and clean off the pulp. Wash the nutlike
seeds with a mild d ete rgent to remove
germ ination inhibitors, then store in the
refrigerato r for 30-60 days before sowing
o utdoors (see p.54). Plants may be raised
from softwood c uttings (as for Bet.ii/a,
p. 76) or by grafting , using a whip-and-
tongue (see p.59) or spliced side-ven eer
graft (see p.58).
may be grown from leaf-bud cuttings
(see below). Rolling the leaf reduces
mois ture loss. It s h ould produce a
decent-sized pot plant in two years.
A IR LAYERING
This can be do ne on a mature
·, . plant if conditions a re cond ucive
10 root ing - that is, in controlled
humiclily at 59-68°F (15-20°C).
Layer a stem (see ,,. 64); after three
months, if it s hows signs of drying
out, m is t-spra)• the root ball.
L EAF-BUD CUTTING
t Using a sharp Jmifc or pnmcrs. cut
SI rc,ighr across a stem just above a ,wde
1111d I i11 (2.5cm) helow rhe node.
Keeping the waxy sid<-' ouurmosi.
roll rht lctif 10 fom, a cyli11dei;
S('C11n· with {I rubber baml. and
1101 i11ro soillcss poui11g mix. The le11f
node should .sft ,m the soil mL\' su,face.
Suppon the curring with a s11lit sw,u
rhmugl, rhc mllcd lc,if. Keep humid 11t
68°F (20°C) llllfil l'OO!l'II.
GLEDITSIA HONEYLOCUST
Seeos in la1e autumn 1
GRAFTING in la1e wimcr 10 c-arly spring lU
Young plan ts o f these lrees a re p rone to
cold damage. Scarify the seeds (see
below) before sowing (see p.54) 10
germ inate at 50-59°F (10-15°C). Whip-
and-tongue graft cultivars ou tdoors as
for Fraxinus (see left) or use a spliced
s ide graft (see p.58).
'l ~ • ..._
f1t -- ~._.. Stcds t1f1a
so«lw,g
><«Is ~ ,
PREPARING GLEDI TSIA SEEDS FOR SOWING
S,wll seeds in warn, water for 48 hours. Mix
wid, nn equal volume of mois1 smul in a pl<1s1ic
bag and cl,il/ 111 J7°F (3°C) for 2-3 1111111ths.
G REVILLEA SILKY OAK
SEEOS in late winter!
O nly Grevillea robust.a germ inates readil)';
scariry or soak the seeds (see p.54) of
other species ror 48 hours before
sowing, or s trati fy for 30 days at 41 °F
(5°C). Sow the seeds in co ntainers
and cover th inly with vermiculite.
Germinatio n occurs at 50-59°F
( 10-15°C); the seedlings grow quickly.
 EUCALYPTUS - J UGLANS

l LEX HOLLY
HAAOWOOO CUTTINGS in
:.lUlumn to miclwilllcr U
drop, caused b)' wet soil mix raising th e soil mix in the refrigerator (see J>.53)
S EMI- RIPE CUTTINGS in hue hu1nidity under cover. lf this happens, to break their dormancy before sowing
summer IO autumn U discard the cuttings. ou tdoors in a seedbed (see p.55).
SEEDS in earl)' :,pnng U
GRAFTING in spring, late SEEDS GRAFTING
summer or earl) au1um1,, Hollies are usual!)' un isexual; for seeds, Chip-bud (see pp.60- J) three buds of
LAYERING in sprit,g'
you need a berry-bearing female and the scion plant onto I. aquifoliwn at the
llrx x ,,lu,ckrensis a male nearby to ensure pollination. desired height ror a standard plant.
'Bal,,.rica' There arc many useru l Gather the berries in winter, clean off
trees (and shrubs) in this genus. Most the flesh (see p.53) , and sow at once. LAYERING
root readil)' fron1 cuttings. 1r onl)' a rew Alternatively, store the seeds in a warm , Chose a nexiblc, vigorous young shoot
plants are needed , try la)'ering. Hollies moist place 10 allow the embryos 10 that is close 10 the ground, then simple
self-sow freely in the wild and will mature. Then chill the seeds in moist layer it (see p.64).
germinate just as readily, if slowl)'
D,1,.k gn·fn 'raves Grnwmg tip
(sometimes taking three years), in , d stem Pa/1•, xr1·rn Im:» ",r1 "
cultivation . Grafting is feasible, but is gl'()WiJ1g Iii>
useful only for creating a standard.
C UTTINGS
Take semi-ripe (see p.51) or hardwood
(see p.50) stem cuttings around 3in
(8cm) long, with the top two leaves
intact and a ¼in (2cm) basal wound LO
stimulate rooting. This ma)' take up to
three months.
Semi-ripe cuttings or easily rooting
/lex aq11ifolium can be taken a little early,
but remove the soft ti ps. For deciduous
I
species, such as/. venicillara, take
SEM I- RIPE SHOOT SOFT\VOOD SHOOT SHOOT IN G RO\Vl'li 1-LARDWOOD SMOOT
cuttings in earl)' or midsummer and do
not wound the cuttings; they should S ELECTING 1101.LY SIIOOTS FOR CU17' LNGS
root in 6-8 weeks. Provide bottom heat Holly shools darl:('11 as tl1ey ripen. so (l\'<lfrl du.· bud h /Jllk green, rhe grnwth hormones arc
for hardwood cuttings taken in winter. sof,woO<I shoots with ligl11er g,ct11 lfCncs. Lo"h still cot1C('t1trnrcd cu the rip HUhcl' llum i11 the
Cuuings of evergreens may suffer leaf for,, te, minal bud thlll lws SWtJtJtd grnwing: if stem wlu_•rc thc_y woufd l1dp the c1111111g to mot.

J UGLANS WALNUT
Seeos in mid- to 1::ur 3utumn 1
GRAFTING in early spring U!
Ornamental walnuts arc raised from
seeds. Gather the ripe fruits, clean off
the g reen, fibrous husks, and sow the
"nuts" immediately, or stratify for
120-190 days at 41°F (5°C). Sow in a
seedbed (see p.55) or into root-trainers,
covering 1he seeds with 1in (2.5cm) of
soil mix and ¼in (3mm) grit. Germ inate
at 50°F ( 10°C). Plant out
seedlings in 3-5 years.
Cuhivars or jug/ans regia
and j. nigra, grown for their
edible nuts, are usually whip-
and-tongue grafted (see p.55) .
Use 2-3-year-old pot-grown stocks
of j. regia or J. nigra; keep cool
and dormant until 7-10 da)'S before
grafting to avoid sap rising too quickly.
Use a slight!)' narrower scion
than the stock so the thinner
scion bark will align with the
stock's cambium more easil)'·
RI PI~ \\'f\LNLIT S
\Valnurs me stcme fmHs, ,wt 1rue
mus. Th,, husks blachfn mul disinregrmc
on the lr('(' w rekose tl1c ripe .. 11,as. ·· Gml1cr tire
fruits whik s1iU Kltcn cmd remove the husks.

O THER GARDEN TREES

EUCOMMIA Take sort wood
cuuings as for Acer (sec I'· 74) u.
Seeds as fo r Ulm us (p. 91) ,.
Eu(RVPIIIA Take sof1woocl
cuttings as for Siewarria (sec
U- Take semi-ripe cu11ings
/J. 90)
as for Arbutus (1',76) U Sow
seeds as for Srcwlll'lill (1,.90) ,.
EuPTtl.EA Sow seeds as for
S1Cwt1rria (see 1>. 90) !, t..1ycr as
for Magnolia (p.83) , .
F1RMtANA Remove seeds when
ripe from outer coaling; sow
singl)' (sec />.54) in free-d raining
soil mix al 70-F (21°C) ,.
fRANKUI\.IA AIJ\TAMAHA Take
softwood cu1tings as for Acer
(sec p.74) II. Sow seeds as for
Srcwal'lia (p.90) ,.
GEtJFRA Scarify fresh seeds and
sow in autumn (sec />t>.53-4) UI-
GORDONIA Semi-ripe cu11ings as
for Arburus (sec l',76) II, Sow
seeds as fo r Srcwarr ia (/',90) 1.
GYMNOCLADt:S Take rooL
cu11ings as Acacia (sec p. 74) Ill,
Sow seeds as for Acllcill , .
I IAKEA Sow seeds as for most
Grevilleas (see faring pllgc); avoid
dis turbing roo1s , .
I IALCSI.,.\ Take sohwood cuttings
as fo r Magnolia (see p.83) U, Sow
seeds as fo r Davie/in (p. 79) II.
t-1011tRU Take greenwood
cu11ings (see />.52) of deciduous
trees in early to midsummer u.
Take semi-ripe cuuings (p.51) of
evergreens in late summer or
earl)' au1umn ,. All cunings
need mist and bottom heat of
70-F (2 1°C). Sow seeds as for
Grevillea mbusra (facing poge) I,
Mo, ENI,\ Abrade fresh seeds.
then soak in water for 48 hours
before sowing o llldoors (sec
1>.55) in au,umn in cool
climalcs, or refrigerate moist for
90 days. lhen sow al 50°F
(10°C) in spring u.
I-IYMENOSPORUM fLAVUM Take
semi-ripe cu11ings as Hoheria U,
Sow seeds as for Grfvillca
rol,usw (see j"ci11g p<1gc) ,.
JACARANDA Take greenwood
cuuings as AcaciCI (see 1>.74) U.
Sow seeds as for AcaciC1 l-

81
A-Z OF GA RDE N TREES

j UNlPERUS J UNIPER LIQUIDAMBAR sv.1EET Gu1v1

CUTTINGS in la1c summer,
au1u,nn or i,, la1c winter U
SEEDS :11 :my 1m1c tU
There are shrub and
tree species in this
genus (S)'ll. Sabina).
To succeed. cu11ings
Jw1ipt·rn:. must be taken fro1n
,aurrn suiiable shooLS. Raising
junipers from seeds is slow, but it yields
plants of both sexes.
C UTTINGS
Choose strong, juvenile shoo LS that are
still green at the base; juvenile leaves arc
needlelike. Treat as sem i-ripe cuu ings
(see p.70) to root by the next summer. In
L ABURNUM G OLDEN C/-IAIN TREE
CUTTINGS in hue aununn !
(see p. 60). Insen the buds 3-4in
SEEDS in early ~pnng!
GRAFTING 111 early ,pnngU
BUDDING in 1111<.bummcr Ul
Hardwood cuu ings of
these trees can be very
successful. Seeds arc
also useful for raising
late winter, root cuuings in humidity
with bonom heat of about 68°F (20°C).
SEEDS
Junipers of both sexes arc needed 10
produce female cones wi th viable seeds;
these are berrylike when ripe and often
blackish purple or blue. J. recurva and
most juniper cones ripen in two years,
j. viigi11ia11a cones in the first autumn ,
and j. co111111w1is cones after three years.
Clean off any neshy coating, then sow
seeds in pots (see p.54). Germination
takes 2-5 years. Expose the seeds 10
cold in winter and heat in summer, but
keep the soil mix moist. Pot the slow-
growing seedlings in their second )'Car.
(8- 10cm) above soil level. Train the new
gro wth up a stake, then sto p it al the
desired height (according to whe1her ii
is to be a multi - o r single-stemmed tree)
to allow ii 10 branch. IL is faster to top-
work three buds of 1he pendulous rorm
at 5-6ft (l.5-2 m) onto three- or four-
CUTTINGS in mi<b,um,ncr U
Seeos III hlh~ ~HHunlll or l:uc wm1cr ~
G AAFTING m l:t1<· wmtcr to early ,prm)! U
LAYERING Hl l:uc .t\ll'-111111 j;
Seedlings o r 1hcse irees var)' greall)•,
hence the wide range of cultivars. Ext ract
seeds from the spik)', round fruit clusters
and sow 1hem o utdoors (sec p.55) or
store in moist vermiculite (sec p.53) for
two months before sowing and keep in a
bright spo1 with a night 1empcra1ure or
59-68°F ( 15-20°C) for germination in
six weeks.
Most cuhivars root well from green-
wood cuuings (see p.52) , but for large,
vigorous trees, especially of variegated
forms, ii is beuer 10 whip or spliced side
graft them (sec p.58). For rooLStocks, use
two-year-old pot-grown species. Plant
ou1 grafted trees af1er five )'Cars. A low
branch ma)' be simple layered (see p.64).
L IRIODENDRON
T UL/P TREE, YELLO\V POPLAR
CUTTINGS in m1cbummcr £,
.· .-e,,
SEEDS ill hue ;.1utumn or hue
,, in1cr !

I.."bun111m
al1>i11um the two species. For a
tree that will nowcr in three years, try
grafting o r budding.
C UTTINGS
Take 8-l2in (20- 30cm) hardwood
cu11ings (see p.50) with a heel or at the
union of the current and last season's
growth . Cuuing in10 the pi1h y tissue of
new growth hinders rooting. Root in a
slit trench with coarse grit in the base,
or in bundles in a cold frame (see p.5/).
1he11 poi in spring.
SEEDS
Gather the pealike seeds from ripe pods
and treat as for Robinia (see p.89).
GRAFTING
Grow o n two-year-old Laburnum
a11agyroides in a nurser)' bed for a year
10 use as rootstocks for chip-budding
L ARIX LARCH
CUTTINGS in inid:i-umm('r ~
SEEOS in l:ut wmter 10 ,pring l Cu hi vars and rarer species that do not
GRAFTING in kuc w1nlcr or late summer u~
Female, usually purple, cones o r these
trees ripen in the first year to brown , but
old cones ma)' have a few viable seeds
(see p.71). No stratificatio n is required;
bottom heat or about 59°F ( 15°C) aids
germination. Seedlings grow fast and at
two years may be used as stock plants fo r
softwood cuuings (see p.52); they root
readily ir kept humid.
,,
year-olcl stocks (see box, p.57). GRAFTING m lalc wintc;r .I
Apical-wedge grafling (sec p.58) is
often more successful than buddi ng. Cu t \. , . ~ Sowing seeds is the
down a two-year-old stock to just above simplest wa)' lo raise
a bud al soil level to draw 1hc sap up the Utit>,fc11dm11 the two species in this
stem, or grar1 pendulous forms o nto wli/Ji/cm genus, but seed viabilit)'
5-6ft (l.5-2m) tall stocks. Protect newly is quite low. Gather the winged nullike
grafled plan Ls from co ld, if necessary. fruits in midau1umn , break open , and
sow the seeds outdoors (see p.55) or
Scion w1:cn APICAL-WEDGE slore in the refrigerator (see p.5.3) for
jJOm stmng. GR,, r: r1NG LABURN U~I 60-90 da)'S, 1hen sow and genninate
m1t-yt·t1r-"l,l M11l1t· 11 Jiu (2.5cm) at 59-68°F (15-20°C) in six weeks.
,;lioo1 _
.· _. vt·1 tical cur iuto die ccnrn· Take greenwood cuuings (see p.52)
'
aj the swell. Tnht· a .scion fro m vigorous shooLs. To propagate a
3-4 buds lo11gfrom 111c cu ltivar, such as Liriode11dro11 111/ipifera
i\fnl:c• \IU( flt'h' growd1; maltc rwo 'Fastigiatum', whip or spliced side grafl
cwnbium, · I in (2.5cm) sloping curs (see p.58) 01110 a pot-grown two-year-old
of scion mad , m the bt1se of the.• scion seedl ing. Plant o ut in 3-5 years.
:il()d~ t1lig11 - ·:
W form c1 wcdgt·, 111:,nt
into the cut in d1t~ swell.
--- .--.
MACLURA O SAGE ORANGE
HAADWOOO CUTTINGS 111 l:uc :.tUlUl1l11 or in lal('
wmtcr,
ROOT CUTTINGS in c:trl) to midwinter Ul
Seeos in mid~ 10 h11c ;.m1umn !
Only Maclura pomifera is co,nmon l)'
set seeds are best spliced side-veneer gro,vn. Extract the seeds from 1he ncshy
grafled (see p.73). For s1ocks, pot two- frui1s; soak in water for 48 hou rs and
year-old seedli ngs in spring; keep warm keep moist for eight weeks in the
and dry in winter for three weeks so refrigera1or before sowing (see p.54).
1hey stan into grow1h wi1hou1 forming Cu11ings are slow 10 root. If taking
100 much sap. Most shooLS may be taken hardwood cuuings immediately afler
as scions while fully dormant in mid- lear fall. store in bundles in sand (see
10 late winier; store them in a plastic bag p.5/) until la1e winter, then insert into
in a refrigerator. Keep the grafted plant individual po LS and supply bouom
rather dry at 64-68°F (18-20°C) un1il hea1 of 59-68°F (I 5-20°C). Take root
a callus forms and the buds break. cuuings as for Acacia (see p.74).

82
 j UNIPERUS - M AGNOLIA

M AGNOLIA SOFTWOOD CUTTINGS FROM A STOCK PLAN T

A swell plmu
in earl) to m1d~lUlU1nn ' '
S EM I- Al PE CUTT1NGS
S OFTWOOD CUTTINGS in l:llC spring to earl)'
1 (11cre Magnolia
-Spt-ctrwu'). hep,
.:tUllllllCr U
GREENWOOD CUTTINGS in cal'ir 10 midsummer U undr, er in
CO \

Seeos in mid- lO late :unumn 1 colder n'gions.

GRAFTING in 1.-uc winter lO c:;1rlr s pnngU
BUOOING in mid- to la1c summer U
LAYERING in late ~llllltlllll 10 CMI) sp1·ing !,
There arc mostly trees in this genus ,
plus a rew shrubs. Cuni ngs may be
taken from plants with suitable shoots.
Grafting is often the best o ption if only a
single plant is needed and for trees that
do not root readily. Seeds and layering
are easier, but slower.
CUTTINGS
Take soft- and greenwood cuni ngs (see
p.52) from 3- 5in (8-13cm) new shoots
of vigorous, deciduous mag nolias.
Commerciall y, stock plants arc grown
under cover for sortwood cuni ngs in late
spring. This allows lime (8-12 weeks)
for cunings lO root and put on some
growth before win ter in colder climates.
A stock plant bought in spring fro1n a
garden ce nter is as good because it will
probably have been grown under cover.
Take nodal s1c1n-1i p cuni ngs (see above) ,
and root in hum id shade: young leaves
scorch casil}'- Bollo m heal of 64-70°F
(18-21°C) helps. Liquid-feed rooted
gives 1,lcnty of
new sidrshoots for T, int aU but
early sof1wooa 2 rhc WJJ IWO
cuuings. 1ol:t· -Jin leaves off eacl,
(( Oc111) Joug c1,ui11g. Cw 1hr lower
currings. culling leaf iu half ro 1<·ducc
SI raighr (l(WSS the moistun_· loss. Nip r>ut
Slflll llbc)Vf <I node. <my leading bud.
Alternati vely, strati fy the seeds for 3- 6 closely as possible . Keep the plants rros1-
months al 4L°F (5°C), then sow under rrec until spring, then pot them before
cover in spring, with 68°F (20°C) they stan into growth and plant out
bouon1 heat, lO germinate evenl)' in 5-6 when 15 months old. Use two-year-old ,
weeks. Seed-raised hybrids flower in pot-grown seedlings of /vi. cmnpbellii var.
3-10 years, but species may take much 111ollico11ww as stocks for M. camJibcllii
lo nger (up lo 30 years for A1. campbellii) . and cultivars and keep in cool shade.
Wh ip o r spliced side g rafting (see Ji.58)
GRAFTING ma)' be used i[ budding fails.
Chip-bud (see p.60) deciduous magnolias
tha1 are difficult lo root (for exam ple LAYERING
1\1. campbellii, M. macrophylla, and large Simple layer (see p.64) decid uous trees
trees) . Rootslocks and scions are usually any time between late autumn o r early
compatible, but match growth habits as spring and evergreens in early spring.
EXTRA CTING MAGNOLIA SEEDS

. ,. •
cunings (so the)' are ripened by autu mn >
and more likely 10 grow away in spring)
and overwinter in a frost-free place.
Take semi-ripe cuttings (see p.5 l) of
evergreen s pecies and cuhivars such as
Magnolia grandiflora. Remove any
decaying leaves to avoid risk of rot.
SEEDS
Before sowing seeds (sec p.55) fresh ,
clean them (see rig/i t) . lf you cannot
thoro ughly clean them, use a rungicide Gather the ripe rout• (sec inset); dry until Rcmo\'t a11y flrs l1, rh<'II di) rh,• sn•ds with
10 prevent rot or dam ping off. If onl)' a 1 tJ1r fleshy fruits come away freely. SoaJl thcsl'
in warm wawr wi1h smnr li<111id clt1crgc11t for
2 tissue. Eithn .!!OW thr :,cnls f,rsl, and
O\·nwi11tcr in a C<>la fm me. "r mix with nwis1
few germinate, transplant the seedlings
in midsummer and return the pot lo a J-2 tfoys w rrmO\'C 1l1t wmcrpmof coming. pcm. \fUuiculirr. or S(IIUI . l'Jan: inn plastic bag.
cold frame for a second winter. Once 1hr flcsl1hw, softnu·d, drain off rite wmc,: n11d ref ngcmte fo r two nw11d1s '->£Jore sowing.

O THER GARDEN TREES

KALOPANAX Sow seeds as for on seed capsules may irritate! for Davidit1 (p.79): female a nd summer 1, Sow seeds as for
Davidia (sec p.79) U- l,,.ALRH u Take semi· ripc male trees needed fo r fruits U- Gr,•villea rovusta (11.80) 1-
KN1GtHIA Sow seeds as for cuuings as ror Mctmsicleros LITCHt I lardwood c.: uuings (s.tt LoPuo~nRn;s Semi-ripe cu1 1ings
G,~vilfca robus1<1 (sec p.80) i (sec ,,.84) 1- Sow seeds as for JJ.50) from 1wo-)•ear-old wood in as for Mctrosideros (sec p.84) ~-
KoELREUTCRI,\ Take root cunings Grcvilfeo robus1t1 (1i.80) 1- late summer to c~trly auw mn JU, Sow seeds as fo r Sorbus (1,.90) 1.
as for Aa,cia (see p.74 ) Ul- Sow LAuRus Take semi-ripe cuuings. Air layer in fate winier (p.64) 11, Lol't-lO!)TF:-.10N Take semi-lipc

seeds as for How11ia (1>-81) U-
Apical-wcdge graft as for
Labunrum (see ft1ci11g page) U-
L\GCR.s1·Rot:-.t1A Take softwood
Cllllings as ror Sttwat'tia (Sl"f
p.90) U- ceds a rc p fe n1iful: sow
as for Stcwartia i.
LAGUNARIA Sow seeds in spring
(SCI' p.54) at 77°F (25°C): hairs
sow seeds, and fayer as for /lex
(s«· p.8 f ) ~-
LEUCADt:NDRor-. Sow seeds as for
Grcvillct1 robusw (sec p.80) 11,
Litl()(t·ORl!S Take semi-ripe
cuttings (sec ,,.70) in summer ~-
Sow seeds (p.72) in spring 1,
Llr-.OERA Semi-ripe cuttings (sec
/>.51 ) in late summer ~i Seeds as
LI 11-1<.XARrL')- Sow acorns as for
Quc,·cus (sec p .88) 1- Spliced side-
veneer grafl onto pot-grown
stocks (p.58): use freely seeding
species as unders1ocks for an)1
that arc shy to fruit 111-
LOMAI IA Take soflwood cuuings
(sec /J.52) in late spring and
sem i-ripe cuttings (p.51) in late
cuu ings and sow seeds as for
Metmsidcms (see ,,.84) 1-
M AACKIA Take root cuuings as
for Acaci« (see 11, 74) 111- Sow
seeds as for Acaci<t ~-
M ACADA\IIA Soak seeds in warm
water as soon as ripe for 12- 24
hours; sow singl)' in containers
(sec 1>.55) at 70°F (21°C) 1-

83
A-Z OF GARDEN TREES

M ALUS APPLE, CRABAPPLE M ETASEQUOIA DA\VN RED\VOOD

~r,-~.... /
.. ~ -· - 4
Seeos in lah~ auLunm or
l;uc wmtcr I
SOFTWOOD CUTTINGS in M1mincr ,.
HARDWOOD CUTTINGS m l:ll«.' w1111cr U Ovoid female cones are frequently
produced. but male flowers form
it· ~ .\ GRAFTING m l:uc winter U Seeos in :,pring l

i\ ... . ~ 8UOOING in. mi<l• 10 l,nt

i summer 1 This tree, lvleiasel1uoia glyptostroboides.
is a living fossi l. Softwood c uuings (see
o nly after hot s U1nmers, so in
some areas i1 may be necessary to
import viable seeds. After sowi ng
~JI-~
.-· /,. '
Mos t ornamental crab-
apples in this genus arc
p.52) root we ll if taken from persistent
s hoots, which shed only their leaves;
(see pp.54-5) , s hade from s trong
sun and keep moist at 59°F
.11n111, John self-ste ril e, but Malus cu uings fro,n d eciduous s hoots without ( l 5°C) 10 has te n germination .
Do,,n1e· baccatt1, M. florenthw , buds (which are shed entire) may root
M. l111pcl1c11sis, NI. si ld1i111e11sis, and but inevitably die. Unusually for conifers, H ARDWOOD CUTTING
M. toringoides come true to l)'])e. Clean hardwood c uuings may be successful , 'follr Sin (IJcm) cw1i11gs from rhi· c 111Tctu
the ripe fruits (see p.53) in autumn and although slow (see rigl,t and p.51 ). seasons g,owth whrn iris dmmmu. Do
sow outdoors (sec p.55) . Alternatively, Bouom heat of 64-68°F (18-20°C) not remo\'c <my btuh; tears in du· lxu ,,
store the seeds in a refrigerator (see ensures rooting in 10-12 weeks; without nwy admir <liSfllSt'. Store in sm,d 1111til
p.53); in early winte r, soak the seeds for heat, useful numbers s ho uld root , a lbeit l<uc wimcr: tn~{lt witl1 lwnnone roo1i11g
48 hours, drain, and refrigerate for 3-6 after several 1no111hs. If raising cuuings c<>mpo1111d wul h1sc1 I in e,1ual ,,m·1s pr<U
mo nths before sowing. in a cold frame, pot them o n in autumn. <111df,m· l111r'1 IO II dt'J"" of2i11 (5cm).
Most ornamental and fruiting trees
arc grafted. Suitable seed-raised
rootstocks (see chart below) may be METROSIDEROS NYSSA TUPELO, BLACK GUM
available from s pec iality nurseries: p lant
them out in a nursery bed in the wini er C UTTINGS in l:u<· ~ununcr I () midautuiun l SEEDS in l:u c au1unm or in l.11c w inter,
Seeos m kuc winier w early spring! GRAFTING m late wmtcr U
before chip-budding (see p.60). It is LAYERING in late aummn or m early :,pring I
usual to bud near soil level, bu1 a few Some of the trees in this genus arc
pendulous forms may be budded on to known as pohuiakawas. Roo t sem i-ripe Tupe los arc tradicionally raised from
a 5-6ft ( 1.5-2111) stem. Alternatively, cuttings (see p.51) in a closed case with seeds. Gather the blue fruits before the
whip-and-tongue graft scions (see p.59) bouom heat of 64-70°F ( 18-21°C). birds eat them , clean off the fles h , and
onto a rootstock obtained by stooling o r Store seeds dry over winte r, then sow outdoors (sec p.55). Al1e rna1ively,
tren ch layering (see pp.56-7). s urface-sow in pols (see p.54) to s tratify for six months al 41 °F (5°C) (see
germinate at 55-59°F (13-1S°C). p.53), then, eight weeks be fore sowing,
Seedlings and c uuings may be p lanted soak in water for 48 hours, drain , and
APPLE ROOTSTOCK$ out or polled after 2-3 years. refrigerate again . Germination occurs
Most cuhivars may be grafted onto any of with a mini,num nighttime temperature
the stocks listed below: choose a stock 10 of 50°F ( 10°C).
determine the size of the grafted tree and M ORUS M ULBERRY Selected forms can be s pliced side or
according to availability. Dwarfing stocks whip grafted (see /J.58) onto a 1wo- or
CUTTINGS in kuc m11umn U
are best for garden frui1 trees. Use MM 111 three-year-old seed -raised rootstock.
and M25 for large ornamcn1al 1rees.
BUDDING in late summer U La)'Cr a mature p lant with suitable
Trees in this genus arc sh oots as for Tilia (see p.91). Saplings
N AME Of H EIGHT ANO S PRCAO
some1i1nes grown for may be planted o ut after 3-4 years.
k001'SI OCK 01' GkA>-r£O Tk£1'
their fntil. Take standard
M27 Very dwarfing 4-6ft (1 .2-2111) hardwood cuttings (see
M9 Dwarfing 6-1Oft (2-3m) p.50), or thick pieces of OSTRYA H OP HORNBEAM
M26 Semi-dwarfing 8- L2ft (2.4-3.6111) ,l ion" two- to four-year-old
nigrn wood (trunch eons), and Seeos m nud- to bu· au111111n
MM106 Semi- 12- tSft (3.6-5.Sm) or m 1:uc winter i
root them outdoors. Chip- or T-bud (see GRAFTING in late winter or in
dwarnng. resists pp.60- 2) scions of fruit trees onto two-
WOOII)' aphid e,rly spring U
year-old seed ling roo1s1ocks.
MMlll Semi- 15-20f1 (4 .S-6111) Th e s mall female
vigorous, resists catkins of these trees
wooll)' aphid
NOTHOFAGUS develop i1110 hoplike
~125 Vigorous 20-25[t (6-7.6m) clusters of fruits. Seeds
SOUTHERN BEECH
Mark Dwarfing. 6-IOft (2-3m) ,,ug111um<1 do nol genuinatc
very hard)' CUTTINGS 111 earl) l o miclaulUmn U reliabl)', but the yield can be improved
Seeos in ~nuumn or m mid· 10 l:11c winter j by stratifying the seeds (see p.54). Sow
Buclagovski 9 6-1 Oft (2-3m)
(Bud 9) Dwarfing, Trees in this genus are usually g rown fresh, slight!)· green, cleaned seeds
very hardy from seeds (see p/,.54-5), although outdoors (sec p.55). Alte rnatively, soak
garden seedl ings may be hybrids. Sow for 48 hours; drain; re frigerate for four
'Northern Spy' 12- ISft (3.6-Sm) seeds from the nutlike fruits fresh or 1nonths; sow in pots, covered with ¼in
Semi-dwarfing,
resists woolly aphid s tore dry over winter a1 37-41°F (3-5°C). (31nm) of grit; and germinate with a
Seedlings may not be ready 10 plant o ut nig huime minimum of S0°F ( 10°C).
MM104 Vigorous. 15-25ft (5-8m) for four years. Take semi-ripe cullings of Kee p for at least a year 10 allow as mall)'
drought resistant in
evergreens s u ch as Nothofagus betuloides seedlings as possible to germinate.
dry areas
and N. dombey i (see p.51). Root in "Nurse" graft Ostrya onto two- or
Ouawa 3 Vigorous. 8-IOft (2.+-3111) rockwool or peat and sand in humidit)\ three-year-old Ca1·1,i11us bewlus
Canadian series with bouom heat of 64-70°F ( 18-21°C). seed lings, as for Parrotia (sec facing
Plant in three years. page), for a good-sized tree in 5-6 years.

84

PARROTIA
Seeos m :mlUmn or l:11c wmtcr,
GRAFTING in 1:uc winteriu
LAYERING in c,uly summer or midau1umn ~
Parl'otia persica is most often raised
from seeds. Sow fresh seeds outdoors
in autumn , or soak for 48 hours, drain ,
and c hill for ten weeks before sowing
(see p.54). Germination a nd growth
rates lend to be variable; a second flush
of seedlings may appear in the second
spring. Ironwoods can be layered, as
for lindens (see Tilia, p.91 ).
Cultivar scio ns can be s pl iced side
or whip grafted (see p.58) onto two- or
three-)•ear-old seedlings of Hamame/is
vi11:i11ia11a or H. vcniafis. To overcome
incompatibility, graft low on the stock.
When potting the grafted plant, cover
the gra ft union with soi l mix to promote
rooting of the scion . This is a "nurse
graft"; cut away the s tock when the
scion has large e nough roots of ilS own .
Saplings attain a good size in five years.
OTHER GARDEN TREES
M A1\CIFf:RA Take semi- ripe cu11 ings (see
p.5J) in late s ummer with bonom heat of
70"F (21 °C) l- Remove mango Oesh and
1ough outer seed coa1; sow large seeds
(p.55) fresh at 68-77°F (20-25°C) U,
MANGUETIA Sow seeds and layer as for
Magnolia (sec />.83) l- Chip-bud as for
Mag1wli11 U,
~1I EL\LEUCA Semi-ripe cuuings and seeds
as for Metmsidcms (sec faci ng !'age) l-
M1,uc, rus (syn. Hy111enanrhcm) Softwood
cuuings as for Stcw111·1i" (sec ,,.90) u.Sow
seeds as for Dmcacna (p. 79) 1-
MEt 10SMA Take root cunings as for /\a,cia
(see ,,.74) lU- Sow seeds of evergreens as
for Dracaen" (p.79) and deciduous species
as for Sorb11s (p.90) l ,
MESPILlJS Chip· or T-bucl (sec pp.60-62) or
whip-and-tongue graf1 (1>.59) medlar scion
01110 Cydonic, or Crm"cgus s tocks 1.
MICMELIA Take scmi .. ripe cuttings (see
p.5J) U, Sow seeds as for Magnolia (/J,83) l ,
OLG\ Take semi-ripe tunings in summer
(see />5 1) U- Crack 1he hard seed coats;
sow in spring (J),54) to germinate in 4-5
mon1hs U,
PANO,\NU~ Take cuttings as for Drt1e<1cnn
(seep. 79) 1, Clean nesh off seeds; soak for
24 hours; sow singly (/J.55) a1 70°F (2 1°C)
in spring 1- Divide suckers in spring as for
H,ua (p. J45) l ,
PAULOWNIA Take root c uuings as Acacia
(see p.74) U- P. spiralis may fonn roots on
upper stems: remove entire shoot in spring
and plan, l , Seeds :is for Stcw(lt1i" (p.90) l ,
PELTOPI-IORU\I Sow seeds as for Acacia (see
p.74). but at 70°F (21°C) l,
Pt-1ELLODENORON Root cuuings as for Acacia
(see 11.74) U- Seeds as for S01'1>11s (p. 90) 1-
P ERSEA AVOCADO
SEEDS when ripe or in '<pnngi
GRAFTING in earl)' spring Ul
Persea americana is u sual!)' raised from
seeds (see below) because it comes
vinually true to type. Soak seeds to
avoid avocado root rot. Germination
occurs at 68-77°F (20-25°C). G row on
the seedlings until they are 12-16 in
(30-40cm) tall before planting out.
Graft c u ltivars , for disease resistance
and reliable fruiting, onto one- or two-
ycar-old seed ling rooLStocks of Mexican
species, usi ng an apical wedge g raft (see
p.58) or a side-wedge or saddle graft (see scion, and <me d<Jw11wmrl cur into du: rootstock
right) . The saddle graft unites large areas Tn sarldk gmfc cut dcq, imo 1hr scion wood on
of ca mbium. resu lting in a s trong union ,
but it requires skill to match the cuts.
GROWING AVOCADOS FROM SEEDS
w
Soc1h healthy, wulmnagcd seeds in
1 lrm watrr lll IOC'>-130-F (40-52°C)
fo r 30 mi11111fs. 7hm (1bout ½in (Jnn)
off the pointed c11d with <I dca11 , slwrp
!111ife. Dip the 1w,1111d i11 fnngicitle.
P l CEA SPRUCE
CUTTINGS in midsummer
or l,uc winier ,u
Seeos in ::-pr-ing 1
GRAFTING in lalc summer
or late winter lU
Cuttings of these
conife rs are best taken
Pitc" rrom young plants or
111011iso11icala dwarf forms. Sow seeds,
if available. Picea breweriana is very slow
from seeds and is best grafted, as are
cultivars of trees.
C UTTINGS
Take cuttings from trees that are less
than 5-6 )'ears old if possible. Choose
nearly ripe shoo LS (seep. 70); they
s hould be fim1 but not woody at the base.
1f taking c uttings in midwinter, provide
botton, heat of 59-68°F ( 15-20°C) to
aid rooting. The cuuings should root,
and the buds break, by earl)' summe r.
S EEDS
Gather pendent female cones, which
ripen in a season from green or reel to
purple or brown in autumn ; male cones
arc yellow to reddis h purple and arc
pendent in spring. Extract the seeds (see
MALUS - P I CEA
GRAFTING AN AVOCADO
Scion J-4
buds long
J11ul,; lm1~
Stoel,
SIDE-\VEDGE GRAFT St\ DDLE GRt\ FT
To side•wctlg(' gmfr. mahe two tmglcd cuts, one
sliglrtly l011gcr t/1<111 tl,c mire,; at tire b«sr of tire
rwo sides. 1wis1iug slw,·,,ly into rhc cc,ur,: Cur
rhr stocl~10 mmd1.
Place each seed in a 6in (15cm)
2 pm of moist SfC<I soil mix so that
die <tH wp of the seecl lies j 11s1 obovc
the mix swftfft" (above). It should
genninmr in about Jm ,r werhs (right).
p.72) and s tore in a refrigerator unti l
s pring, the n sow in containers or in a
seedbed (see pp.53-4). Transplant slow-
growing ~eedlings in the second spring:
those of vigorous species, for example
P. abies and P. sitchensis , may be
transplanted when 2in (5cm) tall.
GRAFTING
Select vigorous s hoots with at least three
side buds at the Lip as scions to obtain a
well-fanned tree. One-)'ear-old shoolS
are best, but twO-)'ear-old s hoots may be
used. Pot the roots tocks (usually two-
year-o ld seedlings of P. abies) in winter
so they ma)' establish before summer
grafting. Keep on the dry side to prevent
the sap rising and pinch out the current
season's growth just prior 10 grafting.
Use a spliced side-veneer graft ( see
I'· 73) and p lunge the plant into 1nois t
peat with bottom heat of 70-73°F
(21-23°C) until the graft calluses. For
winter grafting, use a plastic-film te nt
with botto m h eat of 59-64°F {15-18°C).
Fa iled rootstocks from s ummer grafting
can be recycled for winter grafting. If the
base of the scion roolS, this results in a
more robust, own-root plant.
85
A-Z OF GARDEN TREES
PINUS P INE
Seeos m spring i
GRAFTING in la1c ,, inter or tad) ~priug j
Pines form the largest genus of conifers.
Species are raised from seeds; cu ltivars
arc g rafted.
SEEDS
Cones ripen over two years (three years
in Pinus pinea) to brown; either in la te
w inter to spring, such as those of Pinus
s_vfvesrris, o r in autumn. Extract the
seeds (seep. 72) ; some cones, such as
those of P. racliatc1 (syn. P. insignis), open
in the wild on ly a fter a forest fire; name
them for a few m inu tes, a llow them to
coo l, and moisten, then dry them .
Refrigerate seeds (see p.72) for three
to seven weeks to improve germ ination .
Sow in to containers (see p.54) and
provide bouom heat of about 59°F
(15°C). Protect seed lings from frost and
slugs, and transplant when they are 2in
(5cm) ta ll and woody at the base. They
have juvenile leaves for the flrst 2-3 years.
GRAFTING
Pot two-year-old seed ling roo1s1ocks in
spring. Bring u nder cover in la te winter.
Spliced side-veneer graft (seep. 73) and
plunge in moist peat with bonom heat
of 64°F (l8°C) 10 ca llus in six weeks.
P LATANUS 5YCAA40RE, PLANE
CurnNGS m 1:,tc autumn!
Seeos in late muumn or in late winter 1
The London plane (Plat.anus x '1ispa11ica,
syn. P. x acerifolia) is actually a complex
group of hybrids. The best forms a re
increased by hardwood cunings (see
p.50). Take material from vigorous
shoots of th e curren t seasons wood,
di rectly aher leaf fall. Rooted cun ings
can be p lan ted out after 12 months.
Seeds produce in teresting variations.
Gather the seeds (see below) in autumn
and sow them immediately in a seedbed
(sec p.55) Alternatively, s tore the seeds
d,y in the re frigerator: five weeks before
sowing in late winter, soak the seeds for
48 h ours, allow to d rain, and retu rn 10
the refrigerator. Seedlings wil l be read)'
for plan ting in 2-3 years.
SYCAMORE
SEEDMEAOS
Tf,csc li!{l1tly
pc1clied seed
dusters turn
86
POPULUS POPLAR, ASPEN, COTTON~VOOD
C UTTINGS in l:uc a\tl\tm11
to l.11<: winter 1
have copious amounts of seeds. Spread
Seeos in midsummer I the down on poLS or soi l mix (see p.54);
GRAFTING in hue winter U cover with 'k in (3m,n) o f very fine grit.
S UCKERS in c.arlr ll> late Keep in a closed case with a nighnime
-..:01 wmlCr ,1 minimum of 50°F ( 10°C), ideall)' under
mist. Germ ination should be qui te rapid;
Hardwood cuttings transplant seedl ings as soon as you can
Popufus provide the sim plest handle them. Plan t out 18 months later.
Hl(L~rmoH i<:h way or propagaLing Cuuings o f some species, such as
most of these fast-growi ng trees, apan P. szechuanica and P. wilsonii, do n ot root
from thick-stemm ed species such as read il)'· Instead, wh ip or spliced side
Popufus wifsonii. They are much larger graft 1he1n (sec p.58) 011 10 tWO·)'ear-old
than s tan dard c uuings and so produce seedling roo1s1ocks of P. f<1sioca 1pa.
a mature p lant more qu ic kly. Take the A n umber of popla rs sucker freely, for
cunings afte r leaf fall (see below). example P. alb<, and P. tremufa. While the
Male an d fem ale trees arc n eeded 10 tree is dorman t, sever a s u cker below its
produce 1he fluff)' seedheads, which roots and replan t o r pot to g row on.
TAKING HARD\1/00D CUTTI NGS OF POPLAR
Rfmo\·c rhc
2 ti/J of each
shoor. if i< is srill
soft. c1111i11g l>11cJ1
w the ripn1etl
lurnt wo<>d. Trim
off any sideslwors.
The cwtings arc
best mo1ecl where
tlicy art to ma111rc.
Ma,u· indh·frlulll
pla11ti11g holes Jo,
lhl' cuttings by
dri\1ing n woodrn
sral1c or mcral roe/
i11w rhf ground ,o
Sdecr 1•igoro11s. ,tmighr sh0<11s (/,ere of a tlepth of about
1 Populus x inrcramcricana) 11/J IO 6ft (2111) 3/1 (90cm).
long from the currem sc<JsonS growth. Cut
s1might across the union wirh the main br,mch.
Drop lire currings inw
3 ,1,, holes a11cl Ji n11 i11.
nen:. rhe cuttings Jmvf
bcrn S/Jllce<l 6ft (2111)
n1,an in rwo swggcrecl
rows. \Vl1rn roo1rd
mul into gmwtlt in the
followi11g years. they
will be p, 1ml'cl regufol'ly
ro for111 a l,etlge.
OTHER GARDEN TREES
P1>1ACIA Take softwood cuuings (sec p.52) dry cullings in cool, dark place for rew days
in midsummer u. Refrigera1e mois1 seeds before insen ing in free-draining soil mix at
for lwo 1110111hs: sow (p.54) in spring at 70°F (21 °C) l , Sow seeds ( p.54) as soon as
S0- 59°F <IO-l 5°C) l- Chip-bud onto field· seedpod spli1s in summer at 70°F (2 1°C) l.
grown sto<:ks orP. mllmtic<1 or P. tercbi11thus, PoDOCARPt> Semi-ripe cuuings (sec,,.70) in
as for Robi11i<l (1,.89) U- late summer~- Seeds rrom single-seeded
Pt..·\1 Y(.ARY,\ ~ I ROUIL\C L \ Sow seeds from rruits ( pp.54- 5) in autumn or spring lj.
conclike fruits as for Fagus (see p.80) l· PSEUl)OLARIX AMA8H.ls (syn. P. 11ac111pferi)
vVhi1>-and-1ongue graf1 as for Fagus u. Take greenwood cuuings (sec p.52) in c:irly
PLU\l t R1,1 Take hardwood cuuings (see p.50) summer~. Sow seeds (1,.55) from ripe,
when dormant; if white la1ex is s1i11 nowing. brown, scaly cones in pOls in spring,.
 Pl NUS - P SEU OOLA RI X

P RUNUS CNERRY, PEACH, P LUM, APRICOT, ALMOND

.. ...>.:·~ _ HARDWOOD CUTTINGS in bu:
These enable hardwood cuui ngs 10
... A

.;
-''1111
.I . . ~ - .
,. ,.._.,
:n11umn,
S EMl·RIPE cumNGS in earl) root easil)•, albeit slow!)'. Take
~ - ~\... ..' .,'t,. to midaununn U cuuings in a utumn and overwinter
~ - ~
. .,. ' t ;~
;... Seeos in midau1umo or late
..
~ in bundles (see p.51). Hardwood
.
·4i ' ' - ' ~_
,. wimcr 1 c uuings can also be take n fro m
I '· G RAFTING m lalc winter or stock pla nts 10 use as roo1s1ocks,
• .i \ c;,rly -.pring U such as P. cerC1sijera 'Myro balan', 'Pixy',
BUDDING in mid· 10 la1c
P,mm~
"-ummcr U
a nd 'Colt'. The lalle r has aerial roo1 buds
'Yac-muras..1ki' a nd rooLS from la rge c uuings (see below)
Of the man)' trees in this genus (syn. Semi-ripe c uui ngs of evergreens such
Amygdafus) , the orchard trees, such as as P. lusilanica (see p.51) root best wil h G ATHERING ALMOND SEEDS
almonds, apricots , cherries, damsons, basal heat of 68°F (20°C). Almomh ( Prunus du leis) ,ire sto11r fruris, nm
peaches, and plums, a re best gra fted: nuts: gml1cr them in au111mn (tS ,hey J<,11. Ped ojf
those grown on 1heir own rooLS tend 10 SEEDS the sofr 11115':s and cliill before .\owing in spring.
be 100 vigorous and slow 10 bear fruiL Seeds should be ga1hered, cleaned, and
Hardwood cu uings arc used LO stratified as for Pyrus (see p.88), Lo cuuings are besL S1ocks a re generally
propaga1e some o rnamentals, as well as ensure a good rate of germination. li ned OUL in open ground Lo grow on
certa in roo1s1ocks; evergreen trees may before grafting. Chip- o r T-bud (see
be increased from semi-ripe cuu ings. GRAFTING /J/J.60-2) or whip-and-tongue graft (see
Species ma)' be grown from seeds, bu t vVhen grafting Pnmus, iL is hn ponant 10 p.59) al grou nd level o n a sho rt stein.
the seedlings te nd 10 var)' wid ely. use a compa1ible rootstock (see chart, For weeping trees, )' Ott may 1op-work
below). Seed-raised stocks are no longer 01110 a 5- 6fl ( L5-2m) s1em o f a fou r- o r
CUTTINGS used, except o f the wild cherry, P. avium, five-)'ear-old stock (see p.57) for quick
Strong shooLS of the ornamentals Pnmus for scions of 1heJapanese ornamental results, but the union may be unsigh1 lr
avium , P. cerasifcra , a nd P. pseudoccrasus cherries. Otherwise, 1wo-)'ear-old stocks If the stock is 100 broad for the scio n,
form aerial, or ad ve111i1ious, root b uds. raised from la)'ers (see pp.56-7) or from use an apica l-wedge g raft (see p.58),

RAIS! G PRUNUS 'COLT' ROOTSTOC K$

C 111 Clllh shoot ,town
2 10 allow 18-2-lin
( 4.5-60cm) l011g 1111d
PRUNUS ROOTSTOCKS
Pru nus culLivars may be grarted onto the
principal roots1ocks lis1ed below; choose a
1rim ,if! <111 thf k<1vt"s. slock 10 dciermine 1he size of the grafled
Tic d1i· c1111ings into Hee and according 10 local availabili1y.
bundles of ten ()r .)0.
using gcmlo1twine. PtUMS, GAG1:s, Ctll:KRl' PLU\IS
(P. c,-,u~u~t:RA). OAMSONSl ANO DULL\CES
' Pixy· Semi-dwarfi ng (Europe)
'SL Julien A' Semi-vigorous (Europe and
USA)
' Brompton' Vigorous (Europe and USA)
'Marianna 26 24' Semi.vigorous. resislant
10 oak roo1 fungus. rool knot nematodes.
and tomato ring spot virus (Australia)
'Myrobalan' Vigorous (Europe, USA.
and Ausu-alia)
Tc> misc ,vorstocks from a Prunus 'Col( s1och
1 pfwu .
good
late <mtunm rnlu· ril'f shoots wid1
111
11101,bers of l'()OlS lnt'c,hirr~ ur ,,,r hast· of
PEACHES, NEC1.Ak1Nf.S, APIUCO'fS. ALMONDS
"SL Julien A' as above
cur1en1 scllsm1~ gro,\tJi. C111 llcmss cad1 stem. •nrompton' as above
·Elbena' Vigorous (Aus1ralia), for peaches
Dig II H-/8i11 and nccrnri nes
3 (40-50cm)
rlcep 1n.·11cl1 a
'Mari.Inna 262 4' as Clbovc, for apricots and
in somc1imes almoncls
slwdccl nurse,)' ·Nemaguard' Semi-vigorous (Aus1ralia),
bc,l. Drol' in thL' for almonds and peaches
bundles. mo1i11g 'Golden Queen' Vigorous (Aus1ralia) . for
ends down. Mt1hc ahnonds, ncclarines, and peaches
sure tlwt they do
1101 IOIICh, /iii/ j AMNESE APRICO'I { P. MUMf)
them up so they P. ccrasifem Vigorous (Europe)
an· almw lliree..
qucu·rers buried. C HERRIES, ORNAMENTAi,. f'RUNU!>
Afu, muivdy. lint 'Colt' Semi-dwarfing (Europe)
0111 tht• c11ui11gs The following S1'ri11g, lif1 d,e /11111</l,·s m1<I 'Mazard'/ ' Malling F 12/1' Ver)' vigorous,
singly in<• slir
trench. ,1buur 12i11
4 plcmt rhc curting> m 12in (30cm) intrrvals. resis1s nematodes and canker (Europe,
Tiu: following .s1011mr1; rhcy will be ready to l>t USA. and Ausiralia)
(30cm) apart. us,·d as morsrnchs for budding (sec above).

87
A-Z OF GA ROEN TREES
P SEUDOTSUGA DOUGLAS FIR
SEEDS m ~pring'
The female cones of these trees have
protruding, triden t-shaped bracts.
Collect them in the first autumn and
extract the seeds (sec p. 72). 1t is 1101
essen tial to remove the w ings. Store the
PYRUS PEAR
Seeos 111 mtd· to I.Ile aulumn
o r in late winter,
G RAFTING in early spring Ui
8 UOOING in mid- tO late
~ummcr U three-year-o ld s tocks o f Pyrus com1111111is.
Grafting is the best wa)'
to propagate all of the
r_1n,s rnlfcr1a11a cu ltivated fru it trees
·Cl1'mticlecr' and 111051 ornamental
pears in this genus. They do not root
easily from cuttings and tend lo fo nn
trees that are too vigorous and slow to
fru it if grown on their own roots.
Ornamental pears ma)' be raised from
seeds, but the seedlings will vary.
SEEDS
Clean seeds and sow directly (sec
pp.53- 5) or stratify fo r 90 days a l 41°F
(5°C) . Six weeks before sowing, add
e nough water to cover the seeds in their
bag, chi ll for 48 hours, drain , and return
to the refrigerator. Some of the seeds
may have germ inated when you come
lO sow them ; if so, s urface-sow them
and cover with ¼in (3mm) of fine-grade
vermiculite . Transplant singly as soon as
possible, then pot on in the following
spring or line out in open grou nd.
R OOTSTOCK$ FOR FRUITING PEARS
Use s1ocks according 10 local availabili1y
and the size of tree required.
Quince C Semi-dwarfing
Quince A Semi-vigorous
Quince 8A29 Slightly more vigorous than
Quince A
Adams 332 Semi-dwarfing, sligh1ly more
vigorous than Quince C
OHF 33 (Brokmal) Sligh1ly more vigorous
1han Quince A; good fireblight resistance
Ii calleryana 06 Vigorous (Aus1ralia)
CULTIVA RS I NCO~I PAT l81,E WITH Q UI N'CE
' BclleJulic', 'Bcurrt Clairgcau', 'Bris1ol
Cross', 'Clapp's Favourite', 'Doc1eur Jules
Guyot', ' Doyenne d'Ete', ' Forellc',
1argoncllc', ·Marguerite Marilla1', 'Marie-
Louise', 'Menon Pride', 'Packham's
Triumph', 'Souvenir du Congres', and most
clones of '\Villiams' Bon Chrttien·
INTf.RS10CKS f'OR ooun1,1r-wORKING
'Bcurrt! Hard)". ·ooycnnt du Cornice·.
' Improved Fertility'
88
seeds in a refrigerator and sow in spri ng
in con tainers (see p.54) , covering them
with no tnore than their own depth of
soil mix or fine grit. Bouom heal of
59-64°F (15-18°C) is not needed,
a lthough it w ill hasten germ ination .
GRAFTING
For ornamental pears, ch ip-bud (see p.60)
fai rly close to the ground on to two- or
In some regions, P. c<1llerya11a is preferred
because it is resistan t to fireblight and is
good for cultivars such as ·Bradford' or
'Chan ticleer', which are not compatible
with P. co1111nu11is. A bu dded plant is
usually ready for planting a fter two
)•cars. Graft three even ly spaced buds of
the weeping pear, P. salicifoli<1 'Pcndu la',
onto a 5-6ft (l.5-2m) stock for a
balanced canopy (see p.57).
If the bud fai ls to ta ke, use the whip-
and-tongue graft (see p.59) instead. In
early spring, head back the rootstock to
remove the failed buds, then graft the
scion onto the stock and wax over the
cut surfaces to preven t d r)'ing Oul.
Graft fruit trees using the whip-and -
tongue method or ch ip- or T-budding
( see pp.60-2). T h e principal stocks (see
chart, below) for fru it trees a re clonal
q uinces (Cydonia oblonga). The)' are
easier to propagate than clonal s tocks
o f P. communis, are more dwarfing, and
generally bear better quality frui t earlier.
Some fruit c ultivars (see cl1art, below)
arc not compatible with quince stocks.
These need 10 be "dou ble-worked" using
a c uhivar that is compatible as an
interstock (a "b ridging" scion c0111patible
with both the stock and the cuhivar 10
be p ropagated). If )'OU do not know if a
cultivar is con1patible with the stock, it
is best to double-work it (see below).
Buel chip of G,.,if, :irron 011
MJ('{'tflf \ ( I OU ro h1te, .. ,oc l,
inse:ued liri 2i11 (5on)
(Son) ttl>o\•f' trbo\ c first
ji,-,;1 bud grnft union
hucrsrod 11C1s harr, ~wck lw~
been buclcltd ba11 grnJ1cd
on to n,01 st od -\-c<-Jt;I _ onto roo1stocl:
DOUBLE DOUB'i..E
B U DDI NG GRAFTING
0 0UBLE-W0RKJNG FRUITING rE/\RS
ChitJ·bucl or whi1,~cmd·to11guc gmft m, i,utr-
stoch onto the stoclt in the first ycm: The next
ycm: bud or graft o scion omo 1l1e i111rrsrocll
on rhe opposirr side. Cut /){~Ch rhc intc,·swch ro
abo\'c thf second J,ud once it begin~ 10 slwm.
Q UERCUS OAK
C UTTINGS m early 10 mid·
aummnU
SEEDS in mid- to late au1umn
or m early ... pring i
G RAFTING 111 late wm1cr U1
The best wa)' to raise
these trees is from
Qurrcu, seeds, if th ey arc
monwuhern produced. Evergreen
oaks can be increased by cuttings, but
only a low percentage rool and growth
is s low. Evergreens, as well as rare
d ecidu ous sp ecies and cultivars, m ay
also be grafted .
CUTTINGS
Insert semi-ripe cuuings (see p.51 )
in rockwool o r equal parts peat and
perlite . Root wi th bottom heal of
64-68°F (18-20°C).
S EEDS
Once mature, a large tree can prod uce
thousands of acorns and thus self-sows
read ily ( see below). Gather fresh acorns
that have no weevil holes and sow
immediately (see pp.53-5), ei ther s ingly
in to d eep pots o r root- trainers or in
seedbeds protected from rodents. If
rodents are a problem, store moist
acorns in th e refrigerator and sow in
early spring. Transplant seedlings once
or twice before planting out (see below).
GRAFTING
Oaks fal l into botanically related groups
such as the red, Turkey, or whi te oaks.
Always graft a scion onto a rootstock
from the same g roup to avoid problems
w ith incompatibili ty. \.Vhip or spliced
side graft (see p.58) rare decid uous oaks
onto su itable stocks. Spliced side-veneer
graft evergreens (see p.58) on to three-
or four-year-old pot-grown seed lings.
G rafts should un ite in 5-6 weeks. Oo
not head back the stock fu lly until
growth begins in the second year. Plant
out grafted oaks 3-4 years la ter.
SELF-$0\VN 0/\ K SEEDLING
In spriug. llS soo,1 <~S 1l1ey lwve ovo or rhrre
km,es, lrnnsplcmt sdfsown seedlings into a
1111rscrv /Jed. 1i-<msJJla111 again before JJla111i11g
out ,o encourage gmwrh of a fibro us roor system.
Tliis enables the sc,pling to esral,lish more easily.
 P SEUDOTSUGA - SCIADOPITYS

ROBINIA LOCUST SALIX WILLOiV

CumNGS m late :nuumn
10 early winier U
SEEDS m la1t winter j
BUOOtNG on e:orly ,pnng U
DIVISION m late \\ m1cr 10 earl)
spnng !
Root cuuings are best
Ro/111,i" taken from )'Oung trees
·1c1a110· in 1his genus . Most
may be grown from seeds. Cultivars of
Robinia pseudoacacia 1nus1 be increased
by grafting; the suckering habit of some
species can be exploited.
CUTTI NGS
------,--------
Take 3-6in (8-15cm) roo1 cuuings as
for Aila11tl111s (seep. 75). In cold areas,
store 1he111 vertically in a box of sand
in a frost-free place. Then in earl)•
spring, insert them ½in ( lc111) deep in
free-draining soil mix 10 roo1 a1 50°F
(10°C). Plant when 2-3f1 (60-90c111) tall.
SEEDS
Break down the impermeable seed coats
by abrading them (see p.53), or place in
hot water and leave for -+8 hours. Sow in
pots (see p.54); keep in a sheltered place
with a nighuime minimum of 50-59°F
( l0-15°C) 10 germinate in three months.
GRAFTING
Chip- or T-bud R. pseudoacacia cultivars
01110 two-year-old R. pseudoacacia
s1ocks (see pp.60-2). R. ,,seudoaa,cia
'Umbraculifera' has a dense, umbrella-
like canopy: top-work 1wo buds al a
heigh t of S-6f1 ( l.5-2m) 01110 three- or
four-)•ear-old stocks. An apical-wedge
graft (see p.58) is less easy and the graft
CUTI'INGS m lalc muumn 10 earlr :ipnng i
SEEDS 111 late spnng 10 midsummer,
GRAFTING from mid· to J;ue w1111cr U
The many species of tree willows
are most easily grown from cuuings,
bu1 they can be grafted 10 create an
auractive weeping standard. Seeds,
if prod uced on female trees, 1nus1 be
sown fresh.
CUTTINGS
Hardwood cuuings of vigorous willows
may be as long as 6ft (2 m) and planted
out immed iately 10 mature faster than
standard Sin (20cm) cuuings (see p.50).
Take cuuings in late autumn from new;
fully hardened wood that does not need STOCK PLANT OF Wit LO\\'
10 be very woody. Line them out in open \Villows can be cut down almost 10 tire ground
ground, pot them , or place them in (coppicccl) cacl, year 10 produc.- new long shoots
bundles in a frost-free sandbed 10 root. Jo,· cuuings. The shoots <cm also be hilled up
Selec1 those in active growth in spring 10 to encourngr them 10 root (stooling, sec p.56).
pol. Salix farges ii and 5. 111oupi11e11sis do
1101 roo1 ver)' readily in open ground. GRAFTING
Cuttings may also be 1aken of green or \.Vhip-and-tongue graft (see p.59) two
sem i-ripe wood (see pp.51-2). or Lhree scions of 5. caprea 'Kilmarnock'
or 5. caprea var. pendula onto hardwood
SEEDS cuuings of 5. x s111itl1ia11a or 5. viminalis
Seeds must be sown fresh. Collecl the as shown below. Seal the grafted area
seedheads as soon as they arc ripe and with wax lo prevent drying out and keep
nuffy. Tease apan the down , sow it (see moist and frost-free 10 callus. Graft a half-
p.54), and cover with ¼in (3mm) of fine standard of 5. integra 'Hakuro-nishiki'
grit. Place under mist or in a closed case onto 30-36in (75-90cm) stems or
10 germinate in a da)' or so. S. x s111ithia11<1 or 5. caprca.
C REATING A STAN DARD WEEPING \'VlLLOW
GRAFTING A r L,\NT GRAFTED PL,\NT
U,;t·
orllua
I\\'() f'l'Cf)(ll'C (I 6ft (2111)
hardwo{){I cwtJng w
-
/._ .. -- The cutring will
mot one/ 1hr grnft
scions use t1s <1 rootstock · "\ callus cmd s/1001
for" (/1r1c Salix '/Jowks' -_.. -1-<:'
/ .. -\ \ simullaneously,

,
bc,l,mud
union is not as neat. I lyl,ritl'). Insert it i11w ·. \ ,drh111 12 wrchs.
rnnopy .I . .
DIVISION
11 1>01 of soil-basecl
porting mix. \Vhip· . '
Oucr new growtl1
bcgi11s. feed cmd
Remove suckers of R. pseudoacacia mul-tongue grnft lwo . .. II w,ue,: Rub our any
before 1he 1ree starts into growth and or mon.~scions of • I
'
. sicleshoms as tlu:y
replant 10 grow on. T he tree will sucker Top of S. t':lprca 'Kilmarnock' ..· I I . \ I ap,-x!CH' on the
liaulw00<l
more freely if cut back hard in spring: 01110 the 101> of rite • i stem. Plam our
do this Lo raise R. pscudoacacia stocks. ' !
cutting. f
' after two years.

O THER GARDEN TREES

Prn.tA Softwood c unings (sec
p.52) in la te spring U- Take root
cuuings as for Acacia (p. 74) U-
Sow seeds as for Sorb11s <11.90) !-
PTrROCARYA Roo t cuttings as for
Act1c1t1 (see p.74) U- Sow seeds as
fo r Fngus (p.80) ! - Simple layer
(11,64) in laie aulumn to spring!-
Remove suckers as for Ropinia , .
PTfROCtlTIS TAT.\Rl"\O\\ II Sow
seeds as for Zclko,·t1 (see p.91) l-
RADER\tACHERA Take semi -ripe
cuuings (sec p.51) in summe r U-
Sow seeds as soon as ripe (p.54)
at 70°F (2 1°C) in late summer!-
R.Avc~Au. MADAGASCARIE~SI:, Sow
seeds (see p.54) a, 70"F (21°C)
when ripe; scarify , . Remove
rooted su ckers in spring l-
RE1tOERODENl)RON Softwood
c uuings as Stcwai·till (sec p.90)
U, Seeds as Dnvidic, (p. 79) U!-
Ron-1,uNNIA Take semi-ripe
c ullings (sec 11.51) in summer!-
Sow seeds as soon as ripe aher
soaking for 24 hours (11.54) !,
SAPINOL::, Semi-ripe cuuings (set·
p.51) fro m midsummer 10 early
autumn U- Remove ncsh)' seed
eoatS; sow at 70"F (21°C) 111
soil-based mix m spring l ,
S,r,u" Sow seeds o f temperate
and hardy species as Magnolia
(see p.83) and of tropical species
as for Coccoloba (f>. 79) , . \Vhi1>
graf1 (p.58) cul1ivars in late
winte r U,
SASSArRA, Take root c u1tings as
for Acacia (src p.74) Ul- Sow
seeds as for Sorbus (1>-90), but
cold mms1 Slratify (p.54) fo r 3-1
months before sowing J.
ScH~r1-1 FRA (syn. Brassain) Take
semi-ripe cuuings. leaf-bud
cuttings and air layer as for Ficus
(s,e ,,.80) l- Ex1rac1 seeds fro m
ncshy fruits when ripe~sow at
o nce (p.54) at 70°F (2 I °C) , .
ScrnNUS Take semi-ripe cuuings
as for Grc.,il/ea (sec p.80) U-Sow
seeds as for Acacia (p.74) l-
Sc110T1A Seeds as Ac11cia (1>-74) l-
SCIAOOPITh \'tRTICILLATA Semi -
ripe cuuings (sec 1>.70) in late
summer U- Con es ripe in second
year: sow seeds (p.54) in spring l-

89
A-Z OF GARDEN TREES
SEQUOIADENDRON GIANT RED\VOOD
C UTTINGS fro m !,prmg to late :iuw mn i them with onl)' their own depth or soil
Seeos on spnng ,
Th is single species, Seq11oiade1ufro11
giga111ew11 , is closely related to Sequoia,
the coast redwood . Best results are likely
from 4in ( 10cm) cuuings taken in late
summer from the green shoot tips. Treat
as for greenwood cuttings (see JJ.52);
botto111 heat or 68°F (20°C)
is bencricial.
Extract the seeds (see p.71),
store in a rerrigerator and sow in
containers (see p.54), covering
50PHORA
CUlTINGS from mid~mnmcr 10 c:irlr a uHtmn U
SEEDS i1\ nm,lwi nltr 1
G RAFTING in l~1lc winter Ul
Buoo1NG in mid .. to hue summe,· 1U
There are both trees and shrubs in
this genus. Evergreen species such as
Sophorll microphy lla (S)'n . Edw,irdsill
111icropl1ylla) and S. tetraptera may be
raised from semi-ripe cuttings (see p.51) .
Treat the hard, pealike seeds as for
Robi11ic1 (sec p.89); plan t the seedlings
out in the third g rowing season. The
pendulous form o r the Japanese pagoda
SORBUS MOUNTAIN ASH
S EEDS m catly :rn1umn lo l:11c
winter I
G RAFTING in hue winter to
t:irlr spring IU
B UDDING in m id• 10 )a1e
summer U
Not all the trees in this
So,-bus genus come true rrom
tQ 111r11ix1c1 seeds, bul many,
includi ng 5ol'bus CllSlimiriana,
S. l111pehe11sis (syn. S. glabresce11s) , and
S. forrestii, are apo1nic1ic; 1ha1 is, viable
seeds develop without bei ng fertilized
and produce seedlings iden tical 10 the
parent. Mountain ashes may also be
grafted , but care must be taken to use
compa tible rootstocks.
SEEDS
Sow seeds from berries gathered just
after ripening in the autumn before
germination inhibitors develop.
Otherwise, cold stratify the seeds for
two months at 4 1°F (5°C), or as shown
right , before sowing. The seeds usually
germ inate readily; transplant singly in
late spring; plant in the nex t au tumn .
GRAFTING
Botanically, 5orbus is divided into three
groups: Aria (whitebeams) , Aucuparia
{1nountain ashes) and Micromeles. The
Aucuparia cuhivars can be chip-budded
90
mix or fine grit. Botto111 heat of 59°F
( 15°C) should hasten germination.
The fost-growing seedlings are
prone to damping off (see p.46) .
Transplant the seed lings
when they are 2- 3i n
(5-8cm) tall.
UNRIPE FE~IA I.E CONE
The Jin (8c,n) long. Ol'<lfrl ccm(·s whc two
years w df'CUf rom green ro br()wn hut remain
0 11 the tree· for many Yt'ar s.
tree (5. ja1,011ia1'Pcndula') sets seeds
fairly freely, but only in long, hot
summers; only a small percentage
of seedlings wi ll come true.
Whip or spli ced side graft (see p.58)
cu ltivars of decid uous species such as
S. ja1,011ica on to two- or three-)'ear-old
pot-grown seedlings o r ch ip-bud (see
p.60) o utdoors. S. japonica 'Pendula' can
also be top-worked on to fou r- or five-
year-old seedlings: spliced side-veneer
graft (see p.58) two scions or chip-bud
two buds at 5-6ft ( l.5-2m) on the stem.
(see p.60) onto S. aucupari<l, and Aria omo
S. aria o r sometimes 5. latifolia . Budded
plants may be planted out in 15 months.
Trees in the !vlicromeles group (such
as 5. Jolg11cri and 5. megalocarpa) are
spliced side or whip grarted ( see p.58),
as are rare species such as S. lwrrowiana.
S. ah1ifolia is used as a roo1s1ock for
5. megalocarpa and 5. ll11CupcH"i<1 as a
s1ock for S. hc,rrowicma . If the graft
un ions are waxed , keep the plants at
50°F ( l0°C). If unwaxed, they may be
placed in a high-hum idi ty tent.
STRATIFYING SORBUS SEEDS
Plaa the seeds on moist blouing 1-'<ll'CI" i11 n
s<mccr, d1en rc/rigcmrr joY two months bcfort·
sowing. Chu i: r'cguforJy cmd rcnwistcn the
pa11cr; if 11el cssmy. If Ifie seetls swn ro
gcnninmt..·. sow tJ1cu1 imm<·dimdy.
5TEWARTIA
C UTTINGS m early summer U
Seeos m late au1umn OI' in
la1c wimcr !
There are deciduous and
evergreen trees in this
genus (S)'n. 5tuc,1·1ia).
Root softwood cuttings
S1nw1r1i<1 (see p.52) with bottom
,11011<1cldpl111 heat of 65-70°F
(l9-21 °C) . Feed rooted cuttings well so
they make enough root growth to grow
well in spring. Seeds are not easy 10
obtai n from 1rees or suppliers . They
need chill ing (see JJ.54) and a nighttime
minimum or 50°F (L0°C) . If 1hey do 1101
germinate in three months, leave
outdoors ror a )'ear. Plant out seedlings
in the third year.
T AXUS YEIV
CUTTINGS in autumn U
GRAFTING in btc ~ummcr or lah~ wmtcr U
S EEDS ~H <lll) I imc o( Y'-~:1r ,u
Female trees in this genus do 1101 have
cones but single-seeded fruiLS in neshy
red cups, or arils. Raising yews from
seeds is a slow process. Cuttings arc
quicker but must be taken from suitable
shoots. Some cuh ivars are reluctant to
root so therefore must be grafted.
CUTTINGS
Take 4-6 in ( 10-lScm) cuuings (see
p.70) from one- 10 three-year-old shoots
that are strong!)' upright and nearl)' ripe,
but green at the base. Honnone rooting
compound helps. Cuttings root by early
summer outdoors, and earli er under
mist with bottom heat or 68°F (20°C).
SEEDS
The ari ls turn red as the seeds ripen in
autumn , The hard seed coats are usually
broken down in the gut of a bird or
mammal and germinate after a period of
cold. Speed germ ination b)' mixing the
seeds with da,np peat or sand {see p.53)
and keeping them at about 68°F (20°C),
for example in a warm closet, for 4- 5
months, then chilling them for three
months at around 34°F ( 1°C) . However,
seeds that genninatc in late summer will
have 100 litt le time to put on g rowth
before winter. It may be more practical
10 sto re the seeds, sow them in spring in
pots (sec p.54), and keep them outdoors
for l - 2 years until they germinate.
GRAFTING
In spring, pot pencil-th ick three-year-old
seedlings; grow on until late summer.
Spliced side-veneer g raft onto these
roo1s1ocks, as for Picea (see />.85 ). Extra
heat is 1101 needed , but shad ing may be.
The un ion shou ld callus in six weeks.

TILIA LINDEN
Seeos in mid- 10 hue :mtumn or mid- lo btc
winter U
Buoo1NG m nml · to hue summtr U
LAYERING in late :.nuumn or early spring 1
Seeds of these trees are not always
available or easy to gen11inale but may be
used to raise rare species. Ch ip-budding
is the accepted method of propagating
many lindens, but care must be taken
10 USC a compatible rOOlSlOCk. The
European linden (Tilia x europaea) may
also be layered.
SEEDS
Linden seeds have dormant cm bryos and
impermeable seed coats , so they
germinate erralicall)'· Gather seeds when
jusl ripe, before germination inhibi tors
develop, or soak in warm water for 48
hours, drain , store until midwinter, sow
(see p.54) and keep at about 50°F (I0°C).
If they do not germinate in three months,
give the seeds a second period of cold.
BUDDING
T. ame,·icana, T. conlaLa , T. x euchlora,
and, more extensively, T. plaly/Jhyllos are
used as roo1s1ocks for chip-budding (see
p.60). Grafts shou ld take in 4-6 weeks.
L AYERING
lf large numbers of plants are needed,
stool a young tree (see p.56) to obtain
plent)' of strong, new shoots in alternate
years. In the following year, si1nple la}·er
each shoot (see p.64) after preparing the
ground with a mixture of peat and sand.
Remove rooted shoots in the following
autumn at leaf fall or in lhe following
spring. Head back the stooled plant 10
one or two buds to repeal the process.
If onl)' one or two plants are needed,
simple layer a low branch. The point of
contact with the soil, and of wounding,
may be on second- or third-year wood .
If the wound is on older wood , it may
not root in the first season; tease away
the soil in autumn to inspect the new
roots and , if needed , leave for a year.
LtNDEN FRUITS
Gather 1hr 111uliJ1c frui1s (here ofTilia olivcri)
before ,1.,y foll. Remove 1J1c ourc,· J111sl1s. Sow rhc
seeds imma lfrudy 0111tfo()rs in (old d inwtes, or
chill before sowing (see pp.54-5).
ULMUS EL~1
CUTTINGS in midsummer U
SEEDS in a u1umn or mid· lO hue wi nier ~
BUDDING in mid· l O l~uc summer U As soon as they ripen in mid- lo late
Seeds from species of these trees, such as
U. <1111erica11a, U. glabra, U. parvifolia, and
U. pumila germ inate well. U. ameticana.
U. x lwllandiai, and U. /Jarvifolia may be
propagated from cuttings. Chip-bud
U. x hollandica Jacqueline Hillier' and
cullivars of U. gl<ibra, such as 'Lutcscens'
and 'Crispa'.
C UTT INGS
-------------
Roo led soft- or greenwood cuuings (see
p.52) need to make good growlh to
survive the win ter. Keep frost-free and
pot before growth commences in spring.
Z ELKOVA
SEEDS in mid· to late -aummn !
GRAFTING in hue wime.r or in e~ul>' spring IU
The seeds or these trees need a period
of cold before sowing (see p.54) and a
nighuime 1ninimum of 50°F (10°C) to
germinate wi thin 8-10 weeks. Protect
the seedl ings from frost and transplant
in midsummer or early in the next
spring. Grow on for three years.
vVhip or spliced s ide graft (see p.58)
cuhivars such as Zellwva serrata 'Village
Green' or Z. x verschaffeltii 011 10 two- or
OTHER GARDEN TREES
SEQUOIA As for Scq11oiculc11Clr<m (sec p .90) ,.
SESBASIA (syn. Daube11ro11ia) Take
greenwood cuttings as for J\ccffia (srr
p.74} Ul- Sow seeds as for Acacia l-
5PATIU1DE:\ CAMPA."lll...-\ TA Sem i-ripe cuuings
as Magnolia ( see J>,83} l, Remove seeds from
outer coating~ sow singly (p..54) in free·
draining soil mix a, 70°F (21°C) in springl,
STENOCARPUS Semi-ripe cutLings as for /lex
(stc ,,.SJ) u. Sow r,esh seeds (1>.54} in
spring or summer ai 59-68°F ( I 5-20°C) l ,
ST YRAX Take softwood cuu ings as for
S1ewa.-ria (see p.90} U- Seeds are 1hought to
be doubly dormant . but low yields may be
gained by sowing seeds as for S1eww1ia l-
SvzvG1u~1 Take semi-ripe Cllltings (sec />.51 )
in summer l, Sow seeds (J>.:H) rrom neshy
fruits when ripe at 700F (21°C) l ,
TABEBUIA Take semi -ripe cuu ings (s,·c />.51 )
of evergreens in late spring ~nd soflwood
cuuings of deciduous species as for Acer
(1>. 74} u. Sow seeds as soon as ripe (p.54) at
70°F (2l 0C) l,
TA!\IARINDl.S Take greenwood cunings as fo r
Acacia(sec p.74} Ul- Sow seeds as Acacia l-
TAXODIUM Take hardwood cuttings (sec
p.50) in late winter or soflwood cuttings
(p.52) in summer from pcrsislcnt shoots
wi1 h buds: root under mis1 with bottom
SEQUOIADENDRON - ZELK OVA
SEEDS
autumn, sow the winged seeds thin ly
in seed trays (see p.54) and overwinter
outdoors. Alternatively, store the seeds
dry at 37• i= (3°C) and sow in late winter.
BUDDING
Ch ip-bud cuhivars (see p.60) onto two-
or three-year-old U. glabra seedlings that
have been grown on in a nursery bed.
U. gl<,bra 'Campcrdownii' is usuall)' top-
worked to create a standard: chip-bud
three buds at a height or 5-6ft ( l. 5- 2m)
onto five- or six-year-old stocks that
have been trained into a straight stem.
The buds should take in 4-6 weeks.
three-year-old pot-grown seedl ings of
Zelltova, Ulmus parviflora, or U. pumila.
Keep the stocks watered sparingly al
50- 55°F (10-12°C) for a few weeks
before grafting. Prepare 4-6in (10-lScm)
scions fro1n vigorous , new or two-year-
old wood, and seal each graft with wax
to prevent drying out. Keep the plants
on the open bench with an air
temperature of 50°F (10°C) and bouom
heat of 65°F (I 8°C) and regularly mist-
spra)', Grafts should take in six weeks.
$Y2l'GIUM
ARO,IJJ\'f!CUM
heat of 64-68°F
( 18-20°C) l , Sow
seeds (J>.53) rrom
single brown co nes
in spring l ,
T Eco:-.1A Take greenwood and
roo1 cuttings as for Cmalpa (see J>· i7 ) U,
Sow seeds as for Cowlpa , .
TERM1N,1u,1 Sow seeds as ror Spathodea ~-
Tt<r, t llA Take semi-ripe cunings (see 11.51 )
of culti\'ars in mid- l O late sunm1er j. Sow
seeds as ror Syzygium ,.
TMl'IA (syn. Plmy cladus ) Take semi-ripe
cunings (sec p.70) with a heel from late
summer lo rnidautumn; supply humidity
and bonom heat or 64°F (I 8°C) ,. Erect
female cones have hinged scales; sow seeds
(p.54) in spring at 59°F ( I 5°C) l-
TooxA Take ro01 cuttings as for Acncicr (src
p .74) Ul, Sow cleaned seeds (1>.5-l) as soon
as ripe at 50°F ( 10°C) in autum n l-
Tst:GA Take semi-ripe cull ings (see J>.70) in
autumn; give bouom heat or 61°F (18°C) l,
Seeds from pendent remale cones arc viable
for years if s1orecl correctly; chill for three
weeks before sowing (J>.54) in spring u.
91
 HRUBS AND
CLIMBING PLANTS
Shrubs and woody climbers form the backbone of any garden planting
but va,y enormously in habit, form, and productive lifespan; they can be
propagated by an equally wide range of techniques
S hrubs and clin,bing plants represent an
invaluable and long- lasting so urce of s hape,
texture, and color in the gard en. They enco1npass
a wide spectru1n of sizes and habits, frorn fast-
gro,vi ng cli1nbers ( that provide aln1ost instant
cover for uns ightly buildings or walls) and ground-
cover plants to slow-1naturing woody shrubs that
,viii grace a border over a period of many years.
A shrub is a deciduous or evergreen perennial
with rnult iple woody steins or branches, generally
originatfng from or near its base. Subshrubs are
woody-based plants ,vith soft-,vooded stems.
Cli1nbers are plants that cli 1nb or cling by means
of n1odified s terns, roots, leaves, or leaf stalks,
using other plants or objects as s upport. vVoody-
su:1nmed climbers are covered here.
The rooting o f cu ttings, in their rnany
va riatio ns, is by far the 111ost ,videly used 1nethod
of propagating shrubs and cli mbers, especially
,vhen a large nu1nber o f new plants is required.
Many ,nay also be raised in numbers fron, seeds,
although, as ,vith other plants, only species ,viii
come tru e to type.
CLEMATIS ' B ILL M AC K ENZII:'
This J1'1rficufru- clcma(is is pdtl"d for its
yellow lmuern-slwped flowers anti ils silve,y
sccdhc"ds. Ir is thought w be" hy brid of
Clematis tangutica and C. orientalis, ,>J
which rherc <lfc.> numy Jonns in c11lli\'a(ion.
The natural propensity of some shrubs and
climbers to produce suckers or rooted layers can
be exp loited as an easy and reliable method o f
propagation where only a few new plants are
needed, especially for s hrubs that are difficult
to propagate by other mea ns, such as so,ne
ca1nellias, magnolias, and rhododendrons. Heaths
and heathers respond particularly well to layering.
Cultivars tha t are difficult to propagate (or
that req uire a rootstock to control gro,vth and
Oo,ve ring, as in th e case of roses), are bes t grafted
or budded. This requires a little 1nore care but,
if successful, rewa rds the gardener with a fast-
gro,ving and vigorous plant.
FATSIA CUTTING
TJ1e eve,grecn sJ11·11l>
Fatsia japonica mul its
w,rifgated cultiV(ff are
gmwn for their stril:ing
foliage and arcl1itcct11rnl
volue. Bodi forms can
be easily increased from
semi-ripe currings talu:n
throughout rhe yem:
93
SH RUBS AND C LI MBING PLANTS
TAKING CUTTIN GS
aising n ew plants rrom cull ings is TYPES OF CUTTI NG
R rrequently a very stra igh tforward
process, and it is th e most popular
techniqu e for propagati ng the m ajority
or s h rubs and cl imbers. Choosing the
type of culling and th e ripeness of the
wood best su ited to a particu la r p lant
is ver)• im ponan t to the success of the
process (see pp.118-45 for inform atio n
on individu al plants).
h is imponant to select cu tting
material very carefu l!)•, avoid ing an)•
shoots where pests o r diseases may be
presen t and discardi ng any da maged
m aterial, sin ce this will be vu lnerable
lo fungal a ttack. Use typical, horizonta l
shoots, with n odes that a re normallr
spaced , rather than at)•p ical, very
u prigh t, stretched -out s hoots. Never
p ropagate from a variegated plant that
is showing sig ns o f reverti ng 10 its a ll-
g reen form.
Some pla nts prod uce juven ile foliage,
wh ich turns into adult roli age after a
number of years. Th is often co incides
with a slowing down of the an nual rate
of growth of the p lan t, as il tu rns its
auention 10 nowering. An exam ple of
this is the Engl ish ivy ( He<ler<1 helix) .
Unless you s pecificall )' require the aduh
foliage form of a plant , a lways remember
HOW SHOOTS RIPEN
S('nti-,ipc.·
Tl,is Pyracantha shoo, sliows rhc different swges
of wooclintss. The sofrwo,ul lll rhe tip is still
gn.·fn, st1Jr, and sappy. wl,ik d,e gffenwood in
lh<' middle is less flc,i/Jle. T/ie lxist of the shoot
is semi-, ipc. bccmni11g woody tmd dark.
TRIMMING A CUTTING
NODAL
CUTTING
INTERNODAL
CU1"fl NG
Ribcs IJudcllcja
Ctitti11gs are usually t ri,nmcd j11sr belc>w a 11o<le,
where rlie growrh hormonrs <1uum11fritc (sec
lcfl). E<isily l'<UJte<l plants can br nu bc1wee11 rhe
mules (see righl), ro creme more cuttings <1uiclily.
94
T<1hi11g cuttings is one of rlic easies, w<rys of
prop"gmiug mw1y shrubs and climbers. with
<1 wi<lc variety of ty pes tlult am be used.
They «m be collected from C<H'ly sw,11110·
(sofa wood) to wi111c,· (lu11thwmd).
SOF1'\ V00D H EEL
curnNG CUTTI NG
Ct11m1rn:,tf1· CcwwiJ,u\
to take cutti ngs from s tem s that have
juven ile fo liage, because these will root
much more read ily.
Cu ui ngs root most easily w hen th e
parent p lan t is young and p roducing
good leng ths of new g rowth each year.
Juven ilit)· can o ften be restored 10 a
p lant b)• p run ing back hard in to old
wood. T he best mate ria l is usually the
new growth that is ne ither very th in and
weak, nor very vigorous; the lauer is
o ften hollow and prone to ro t. Choose
instead the ma te rial in between these
two extremes, w hich has the norma l
pallern o f inte rnodal g rowth between
two leaves or two sets of leaves.
Most c utti ngs will be from wood
of the cu rren t season's growt h. Som e
s hrubs, such as d ecid uous azaleas a nd
m agnolias, root best if th e m aterial is
forced u nde r protectio n early in the
year. In some regions, by the ti me
growth occu rs in the garden it m ay be
100 late to root cuui ngs wi1h confidence.
Alte rnatively, use pla nts bough t from the
local garden cen ter, w hich invariably
will have been grown und er pro1ectio11 ,
as stock plan1s (see p.2'/).
N ODAL AND INTERNOOAL CUTTINGS
\.Vith m ost s hrubs and climbers, "nodal"
cu11ings, trimmed just below a node (see
left), root well. So,ne p lants, however,
a lso root very readily when the base of
the cuuing is ,nade some way below th e
node. Su ch a culling is d escribed as
"i ntern oda l," because the cu t is made at
a poi nt between the nodes rathe r than
j ust below them.
People o ften thin k that one s tem
)•ields onl)' a single c ulli ng fro111 the
stem tip. O n the cont rary, several nodal
cuttings or many m ore inte rnodal
cuuings can be obtain ed from on e
leng th (see right) of stem. This applies
to greenwood , semi-ripe, an d hardwood
cuui ngs. Make s ure that the s tem
SEM I-RIPE
CUTTING
t\b.-lie1
LEAl'·UUO
CUTTING
CJrmati:.-
IIA Rl)\VOOI)
CUTTING
5(dix
cuuings are un iform in size, because
then they wi ll root a t a similar speed,
wh ich aids handl ing la te r on.
P REPARING CUTTINGS
Co llect material earl)' in the day,
when the plant is fully turgid , before
the su n d i111inishes rhe plan t's vital
water reserves that have been buih
up overnight. Store rresh cuui ngs in
a clean p lastic bag and label them
correct!)'. Note both the name and
d eta ils of p ropagatio n. You can ei ther
prepare the c uui ngs im1ned ia tcl)' or
s to re them in a cool p lace, out o r direct
sun light, for a cou ple of hou rs a l
most. If )'OU are unable to continue
on the same day, p lace the p lastic
bags conrai ning the material in a
refrigermor, wh ere the cullings will
f
f
1
SOFTWOOD
\ft-tbn1e1
GR~ENIVOOD
Pl11lmldpl111s
f
SEM I-RIPE
Lonicrrn
011f stem ~tip and sc,•eml Slrm
cw tings ca,1 be w J:c11 from one
s1ctt1. i11crcasing tht· yield of
cuttings from frh'er shoots. HA RO\VOOO
Keep rite c11r1i11gs 11,c same size. Deu1;::i<1
remain fresh and in good condition SELECTIN G SEMl-RlPE CUTTI NGS
for a number or da)'s. v\lhen preparing ·rc, wlu· semi-ripe cuu ings
cuuings, keep tools, equ ipment, and (l,crl' fro11 , ll shrnbby
surfaces steri le (see p.30). hourysudde, Lonicera),
Almost all cullings respond 10 scl,•ct f,·11gtf1s of htllltfty
artificial rooting hormones, available tlfw wood thar Jws not fully
as powders, liquids, and gels (see p.29). /l(m/n,cd (sec right). Oo Sc111i•ripc· So/r. w,·<11.: _ \Vc)<ld
On difficult subjects, they can mean the 11ot choose slioms that hcn,e l\~ttl gww1h 100 , ip1 ·
difference between success and failure. h£'comc too wootly or thost
Wounding a cutting, by re1noving that arr stiff soft a11<1 sappy Ji rmmrd
a sliver or ba rk a t the base or its stem , (sec far right). below nc>tlf
exposes the area where most cel l GOOD EXAMPI. E BAD EXAMPLES
division takes place and so increases the
uptake of water and rooting hormone. TA KING SEMI-RIPE CUTTINGS
On some shrubs, such as rhododendrons,
wounding is essen tial; o therwi se, roots
orten fail to break through the tough
outer layers o r cells. Take care not 10
create too deep a wound and expose
the pith, however, since this may lead
10 rot and failure.

ROOTING CUTTINGS
For shrub and climbers, a good rooting
medium is one or equal pans peat and
bark with a particle size or ¼-½in
(3-12111111), or peat and perlite. For a
rrec-draining medium , use equal pans
or peat, med ium-grade perli te, and bark. Ju mid- to fore >tm11nc,; select a l1r<1lrl1y ~hoot if not prcpmccl immediately, put the sham in
Rockwool (or florist's foam) is a good
alternative: wi th easily rooted material ,
1 of the CWtt'llt st·as,mS gmwth (lirl'c fmm
<1 )<1pcmesc lmud, t\ucuba). Use clean. sharp
2 11 dear 1>l<1stic bag all(l l11bcl. Store i11 11 cool
pl<1cc out of direct s1111/ight for" co111>k of hour,
watering is easier, whe reas cultings that pr1111ns ta sever rite curti11gj11st al>ow~(I mule. or in a ref, ige,·mo,. for a few dnys.
are d irficult 10 root have a belier rate
of success, provided thi,1 the medium
is kepi moist but not wet. (See also
pp.32-5 for suiwble mixes and media.)
All cuuings, before being inserted
in the rooting medium , benefit rrom
a heary rungicidal spra}', or "sprench,"
a comprom ise between spra}'ing and
drenchi ng. Gray mold, or botrytis, is the
most common disease affecting c uuings;
use a fungicide ever)' two weeks while
cuui ngs are rooting.
Arter insen ing the cuuings, water
the med iu m thoroughly, and then make
sure that it docs 1101 dry out at an)' time.
H under cover, air the cuuings at least Rem1n·t· the sitlcshoob from thf maiu stem. shallow wound 011 cmc sick of the
twice a week. for ten 1ninutes at a ti1ne,
removi ng all)' dead material or fallen
3 T, im eud1sicleslwm lO 4-0iu ( I O-l 5cm )
Jong, cutting just below a uodc. Rcmo\'e 1hr
4 1\,frfhf c,
stem by C<ffejully curring away c1 piect· of
bw·I, 1/.-¼i11 ( 1-2011) lo11gfm111 the b<1sc of tl,c
foliage. Hin a greenhouse, when it is lowest pair of km cs cmcl llu· soft tip.
1
stn11. This will l,dp stimulcuc rooting.
hot provide addi tional shad ing and
damp down at least three times a day.
Keep con tainers ou t of direct sunlight.
Slow-release fenilizer improves the
vigor of a rooted cuuing: add a teaspoon
to each quan or medium in summer, and
a half teaspoon in winter. Liqu id feed ing
with a balanced fert ilizer al the package's
recommended rate throughou t the e ntire
growing season is an cquall}' beneficial
alternative to slow-release renilizer.

SEMl•RIPE CUTTINGS
This type of cu uing involves material
or the curren t season's g rowth that has
begun to firm; the base or the c ulling
shou ld be quite hard, while the tip of
the cuuing should (co111i1111ed on p.96)
Dip the base of t/,c cu11i11g. i11ch,cli11g the
5 cnri,·c wound, imo some hormone mming
compouncl (hen• in powder farm). i\lal:c sure
tlrm dtt> wouucl lws ,111 even, but thin, coating.
Insert the cuttings in moli11g mc,lium iu
6 a uui·sc,y bed outdoors (Ot' wulcr mist).
spc1ci11g them 3--lin (8-JOcm) llJ)llrt. \Vmcr
well. Cover ro l:eep humid muil roorccl.

95
SHRUBS AND CLIMB ING PLANTS
still be actively growing and therefore
still soft. The list of shrubs and cli1nbers
for which this method is suitable covers
a very wide range of plants, includ ing
both evergreen and deciduous species,
from Cotoneasrer and Mahonia to
some lavenders. Semi-ripe cuuings are
good for obtaining large numbers of
plants 10 produce a hedge of boxwood
or Pyracanlha, for example. Many
commercial nurseries keep stock plants
of shrubs such as boxwood as hedges
because the clippings make ideal and
plentiful cuuings.
The best time to take semi-ripe
cuuings is from mid- to late sum mer,
or even in early autumn. In warm
climates, growth may be semi-ripe in
early summer. The length of the cutting
is dependent on the growth habit of the
plant being propagated, but between
2'/,-.4in (6- l Ocm) is suitable for cuuings
of most sh rubs and climbers. Choose a
healthy-looking stem (see ,,.95), remove
any sideshoots, and trim the culling.
\.Vound the stem and apply a generous
coating of hormone rooiing compound,
shaking off any excess if using powder.
Sem i-ripe cuuings may be rooted in
a variety of situations. To prepare an
outdoor nursery bed, mix so,ne soilless
pouing mix into the soil to a depth of
6-Sin (15-20cm) and inscn the cuttings
directly into ii. Cover the bed 10 keep
the soi l mix moist (see below) and shade
if necessary to protect the cuuings from
being scorched. The cuttings mar also be
insencd in rooting medium in containers,
in cells in soil mix, or in rockwool.
Place the containers in a cold frame,
a plastic tunnel, or on a heated bench
under a plastic 1e111 (see p.44) , according
10 the conditions required (see
pp.I 18-45 for individual plant needs) .
Ahhough sem i-ripe cuuings are less
prone 10 wilting than softwood cuuings,
a humid environment is essential so
that the rooting process can take place
with the mini1num of stress. Gra)'·leaved
plants need a slightly drier environment
SEMI-RIPE CUTTINGS UN DER COVER
tou co,1toOI cu1ti11gs wuter a large clocl1e or t'lc,sric tunnel.
Prcpcirl' an nuulcwr 11ursc,y bed J,y mixing rooting medium i111,,
rhc ScJif. h1serr d1r cuttings tlirecr. Keep 11,c medium moist. Shade
rhe dod1c with 11rui11g to protect the c11tti11gs from strong s1111liglu .
96
HEEL CUTTINGS
Cw·cfully puU mw1y a hcalll,y side.shoo,
1 of tJu: <:mTc1tt sca.so11S growrh (here of <l
Ccano1hus). so 1luu it comes away with a
Sli\'e1, o, "hrd," of burh from the pmclll shoot.
Tloc sideslwo, should be ,1bo111 4i11(JOc111) long.
10 prevent the cuuings fr01n rouing,
which will occur if their foliage is
constantly damp. Regularly air such
cuuings in a plastic tent. They also root
wel l in a frost-free cold frame or si,ni lar
structure rather than in the more humid
atmosphere of a greenhouse.
During winter, inspect 1he cuuings
regu lar! )' and remove any £alien leaves.
Water if the medium shows any signs of
drying out. The cuttings will normal!)'
require a fun her growing season before
rooting sa1isfac1orily and should be
g rad ual ly hardened off (see p.45) during
spring and su1nmer before the new
plants are poued or planted oul.
DIRECT ROOTING OF CUTTINGS IN POTS
For easily rooted plan ts with a very high
success rate, space out 2-3 semi-ripe
cuuings in a 3-4in (8-lOcm) poi. This
extra space produces cuuings ready 10
be planted into the garden withou t the
need for any intermediate stage of
Cuwngs spacc<I
2-.li11 (5-Scm) t1port
AFTER
T,imc,_Jf"wil ..
just below 11txli-
Trim off 1l1e "WW' of 1l1e hrd witJ1 c, dew1,
2 sl1mp lmifc. Tl,e hcd contains grow1h
hon11cmcs lh<H wilt eucournge nx.uing. Dcpf,uling
,m rhe mawriiy c>f die steu1. fdlfow die ral111fr1uc
fm g,tc11,,·oocl. Sf'U1i· fiJ1t', or lwrdh'oml cu1ri11gs.
potting, and in so,ne cases advancing
planting by an enti re growing season.
Incorporate fenilizcr into the rooting
medium or appl)' a li quid feed once
the cuuings have rooted, because they
will be in the same soil mix longer than
usual. If specimen plants are required,
po, the cuuings singly into larger
containers when needed. This technique
is demanding on propagation space, so
do not auempt it unless the plant is
suited to this method (see pp.118-45).
HEEL AND MALLET CUTTINGS
For plants that are difficult 10 root , it
is a good idea 10 take heel cu11ings (see
above) . The heel forms an area where
the natural rooting hormones of the
plant build up, creating be11er chances
of success in rooting the culling. LI also
provides a hard end-point to 1he cuuing,
which is consequently less prone 10
fungal auack. lt is possible to root many
Cea11otl111s species in this wa)'. Some
Berberis species and their cuhivars root
best from mallet cuuings (see p.119).
OUTDOOR NURSERY BEDS
If rooting cuttings in any quantil)', an
outdoor nursery bed provides the best
condi tions in which 10 grow on new
plants in containers once hardened off.
There are two types: sand beds and
water-permeable fabric beds (see p.40).
Water-permeable fabric suppresses
weeds, helps protect plants from soil-
borne diseases, and allows containers
10 drain free!)' while giving plants access
to water through capillar)' action. Sand
beds need less watering than fabric beds,
because they provide a water reservoir.
Excess water drains away, but the soil
mix in the pots does not dry oul.
LEAF•BUD CUTTINGS
This method makes economical use
of semi-ripe material from the parent
plant, producing many cuuings from
one vigorous shoot. A leaf-bud culling
(see right) requires on ly a shon piece of
semi-ripe stem 10 provide food reserves,
since it also manufactures s01ne food
through its leaf or leaves. leaf-bud
cuttings can be internodal, which
usually works well with clematis and
honeysuckle (Lonicera), or nodal, which
is more sui table for plants with hollow
stems or ones that are susceptible lo
rot, such as camellias.
In late summer or early autumn,
using pruners or a sharp knife, remove
a strong shoot (see below), severing ii
between the nodes 10 create a number
of internodal cuttings, each with 1-2
leaves. You should end up with several
from one stem. Alternatively, if more
appropriate for the individual plant (see
pp.118-45), divide it into nodal cullings
by cuuingjust below a node at the base
of each culling and just above the node
at the lop. \.Vhen preparing leaf-bud
cullings, always take care 10 retain the
growth buds in the leaf ax il at the Lip:
TAKING LEAF-BUD CUTTINGS FROM SHRUBS AN D CLI MB ING PLANTS
Select a healthy shoot of the cun-ent seasons
1 growth (here of i,,y, I ledera). liil,e the length
rel1uired (you wiU 1n-vduce as many cuttings as
there are nodes). cuuingjust nOOvc o nCHle. Put in
11 pl11stic hag to l,etp the sl,001 from drying out.
LEAF-BUD CUTTINGS
Leaf-bud cuUings arc made up of" single leaf or
a pair of lcc,ves containing a grnwtl1 bud and c,
short piece of stem. They can be eitlicr nodal or
i1uer11odal. Semi-ripe leaf-bud cuuings c,rc tal:cn
in late summer or eorly autumn.
Vitfs
INTER 'ODAL INTERNODAL
they are all too easily nipped out by
mistake. With some species, the buds
are quite long; in this case, the culling
should be cut back 10 just above the top
pair of leaves, so as not to damage the
buds. With smaller buds, cut back LO
just above the top leaves.
If the plant from which you are
taking cuttings has large leaves, it is a
good idea to trim them by cutting across
the leaf (see Lonicera cutting, above).
Wounding the culling is not necessary,
but may be a good idea for plants that
have very woody stems. Apply a good
Out· re,if
left Otl Cc1d1
saHou --
Use clean pruners or Cl gmden lmifc to cut
2 up d1c shoot. Cui the stem just above c,•ny
node lO creme intemodal cuttings with one or
two lecivcs (see above). Prepare nod11I c111tings
by trimming each cuuiug below a node ar the
base and abo\'e the node at the top.
Leaf.bud cuuings
in pots
v._n1tL -
'"~ -
r-----;-;;;----- -
Fin11 anrl ,wucr in the cuttings and label
4 the pots. Place them under cover mul llecp
the cnvironn1ent humid by misting if 11eeded.
80110111 hem is nor required for i\ties. Tl,e
cuttings shoulcl tal,c about cig/11 wecl,s to root.
INTERNODAL
Cm11dfie1
INTERNODAL NODAL
coating of hormone rooting c01npound
to the base of each culling, shaking off
the excess if using powder. lnsen the
cuttings inlo a pol filled with rooting
mediun1. After walering in and labeling,
keep the cuuings humid b)' placing
them in a closed case or under plas tic.
Some less hardy plants may require
bottom heal to aid rooting.
When the cuuings have rooted,
usually about eight weeks later, pol
the young plants into individual
containers in soil mix and grow them
on unlil established.
Dip each prepared culling (sec inset) i11
3 son,e hor'ruo,,c rooti11g compound such c~s
gel. Fill a pot with rooting medium and malle
holes for rhe currings. Insert cacl1 cutting into
iJ,c medium so that l11c lecwrs arc held jusr
above tlie surface and do not touch.
Pot the rooted currings individually in
5 soilless potting mix, into pots about ¼in
(I cm) larger than 11,e root hall of each cutting
(see inset). \Vater in e<1ch cutting thoroughly
w,d l<1hel.
97
SHRUBS AND CLIMBI NG PLA NTS

H ARDWOOD CUTTINGS
Typical exa1nples of plan LS propagated
fro,n hardwood cuttings a re shrubby
dogwoods (Con1us) and willows (Salix),
but there is a vas1 range of mate rial that
can be inc reased in this way, including
bo1h everg reen and deciduous species.
These include grapes and 1he cli mbing
Polygonum (syn. Fallopia), deciduous
sh rubs including Forsythia and Tamarix,
and the evergreen Prunus laurocerasus
and Elaeagnus. Deciduous and evergreen
hardwood cuu ings require quite
d ifferent handling.
Deciduous planLS are propagated
fro,n late autumn 10 midwinter, once the
cu rrent seasons growth has complete!)'
,natured. Usually, the c uuings a re
leafless; those taken in late autumn may
retain some leaves in temperate climates,
but these will soon fall. Evergreen
cuuings a re taken at a si,n ilar Lime,
when the leading growth bud is resting
and the new growth has ful ly matured.
Hardwood c uuings are normally
much bigger than so ftwood or semi-ripe
ones, since 1hey are ,nuch slowe r LO root
and need additional food reserves in
order 10 survive the win te r. A standard
culling should be abou1 Sin (20cm)
long - the length of a pai r of pruners.
This will help ensure uniformiL)', which
is important if you wan t all the cuuings
LO root a nd develop at a si milar rme.
Using your pruners, make a horizontal
cul just below a node and a sloping cut
away from the bud at the top - this
e nables you 10 consistently insert the
c uttings the rig ht way up.
Several cullings can usuall)• be taken
from one length of ripened, cu rrent
season's g rowth, especially with the long
ste ms of climbers. Always d iscard the
thin growth al the 1ip and the thick
growth a1 the base, because these a re
more li kely ei ther to rot or take longer
to root. Take cullings o f medium
thickness for the individual plant.
D ECIDUOUS HARDWOOD CUTTINGS
Dip prepared cuuings in hormone
rooting compound. (If the plan! is 1101
easi ly rooted, wound each c ulling by
taking a 1/,-¾in (l-2cm) slive r of bark
from the base.) Insert the cuuings in
an approp riate rooting medium , in an
outdoor trench or nursery bed , or in
poLS in a cold frame. A slit trench (sec
below) is suitable for most d eciduous
shrubs and cl imbers. Choose a shelte red
site, because winds can very quic k!)'
desiccate the c ullings, and re,nove all
perennial weeds from the soil.
Well-drained soil is essential, because
waterlogged soil will kill the cullings.
l1np rove drainage and aeration if
needed, especially in heavy soils, by
running sand along the base of the
trench. lnsen the c ullings so that only
the top quarte r is exposed; less of the
Culling will be vulnerable lO drying out
by any cold win te r or spring winds, and
a much larger root system will develop.
Firm in the cullings after filling in 1he
trench to make sure that there is good
contact between each Culling and the
soil. Check the culli ngs periodically,
since frost will lift the plants, wh ich
will need firming in again.
Hardwood c uttings root slow!)', and
they may come into leaf in the following
spring before they have developed a
substantial root S)'Sle m. Ai this point ,
it is critical 1hat )'OU do not allow them
10 dry out. Water them thro ughou t the
growing season and keep the1n free of
weeds in order 10 maximi ze growth . Lift
the new plants in autumn , when they
should be large enough 10 plant out.
\¥here on ly a few new plants are
wanted , insen the cullings into 6in
(15cm) pOLS (see below rigl11). In cold er
clima tes, place the pols in a cold frame
o r, 10 speed up 1he process, on a heated
bench in a frost-free greenhouse. The
added protection can bring the cullings
into early g rowth, which often leads
LO the foliage being sco rc hed and the
subsequent death of the c ulling. If

DECIDUOUS HARDWOOD CUTTINGS

From late Trim off 1lie lip of
1 awumn to carJy
wi11tcr, ialze well·
2 eC1ch sliool if ii has
not ripened. Cut the shoots
ripe11etl slioms of into 8i11 (20cm) sections
deciduous shrubs (C1bour rhc length of a
or climbers (lierc pair of pnmrrs). Mahe
Forsythia). Cur a hori:;::omal cu, just
eacli slwo, at rhe below a node at tl,e
base of 1l1e current base of each cutting
seasons grow1h. and a cut sloping
Cuttings taken in away from a bud
autumn may still <II Ilic IOp.
have a few Jeaves:
rrim 11,ese off.

CUTTINGS IN POTS

Prepare a slit trench in /ree•draining soil:
3 push the spade i1110 the soil about 6i11
(15cm) down and press the blade fonvard 10
open out tlie 11·,ncli. Dip 1lie base of each culling
in hormone rooting compound (see inset).
Insert the cuttings about 2in (5c,n) apllfl
4 so 1ha1 abour a q1wrre1· of each is visible.
Ro,vs of cuUings should be 12in (30cm) apart.
Backfill rhe trench and Jinn tl,e soil around the
cullings. Label, then water if the soil is dry.
If only c~ few cuttings are required, inscrr the
cullings, as in step 4. into 6i11 (15cm) pois
of soil-based .-ooli11g medium - about Jou.-
per pot. Label, 1/,e,1/>lace in a cold frame.

98

EVERGREEN CUTT INGS
'fo f)ICl)WC cvcrg rctll
1hcmhvoml cuttiugs
(ltere of Escallonia). c111
the :,hocus into seclio11s
8-lOin (20-25cm) i11
le11gd1. 1Hm each culling
j11s1 bdow u node (H the
bc,se cmd j ust above c,
111x/,, m Ihe IO/>. Srri,,
the lec,vcs cmcl any side~
:.lwms from dtr bottom
half of each cuuing 10
redua (II(· , bh of rot
lnserr 5-8 cuuings
2 in Cl <leq, 6i11
(15cm) pol, so rhm 1/w
foliage si1s j 11<1 abol'e
the surface. IJmwm
hem will speed mating,
whrch nnmwlly wiles
6-1 0 wee/is. Placing
the pots in a plastic te,u
to lieep 1hc cuuings humitl
is ,dso l>e1l(ficial.
rooting has already staned, cover the pot
with neece to avoid scorch; otherwise,
remove it LO a cold frame or cloche to
slow down new growth. lndecd, orten
the best way is to place the pots on a
heated bench ror a cou ple of weeks to
speed callusing and then to remove
them to a cold rrame to con tinue the
rooting process. This principle is
followed in large-scale co mmercial
production of rruit tree rootstocks.
For easily rooted subjects, such as
willows and nowering cu rrants (Ribes).
where large numbers of cuttings are
needed, insert cuttings in large , prepared
nursery beds (see rig/11). To improve
drainage, either use a raised bed or pour
sharp sand into the bottom of each hole
before inserting the cuuing. As with
trenches, place the cuttings 2in (5cm)
apart, in rows l2in (30c1n) apan. l t is
best to stand on a wooden board when
planting to prevent co mpacting the
soi l. The width of the board also acts
as a spacing guide between rows. After
inserting them, treat the cutlings as for
those in slit trenches (see faci ng page).
EVERGREEN HARDWOOD CUTTINGS
Although evergreen cuttings will root
in a sheltered place outdoors, such as
in a cold frame, they respond well to
the additional humidi ty provided by
a plastic tent, either in a greenhouse
or outside in a tunnel cloche. This is
because they are susceptible, unlike
deciduous hardwood cutlings, to losi ng
moisture through their foliage. Sma ll
numbers of everg reen hardwood cuttings
may be rooted in pots in a greenhouse
SPACE-SAV ING HARDWOO D CUTTI NGS
(see above). Bottom heat is not usually
required but speeds rooting, which is
normally rapid and prod igious.
Rooted ha rdwood cuttings of many
evergreens, such as Pnmus lusiranica and
x C11pressocy1Jaris leyla,ulii , may be used
for hedging. Take cuttings up to 20in
(50cm) long for growing on in large
pots; new plants can reach 3ft (90cm) by
autumn. Reduce foliage on large-leaved
subjects b)' up LO a half to lessen the
risk of botrytis and for easier handling.
U SING A COVERED NURSERY BED
Hardwood cuttings root well in a
covered nursery bed, such as in a cold
rramc; this is usefu l in colder cli,nates
for propagating some less hardy species.
First ,nix perli tc or peat and grit in to
the soil for a 1nore free-draining rooting
medium. Late winter into spring is the
critical time, because the cuuings may
not ye t have many roots bul the buds
may come into growth early, owing to
the protected environment. The secret
of success is the hardening-off process.
Do this graduall)', first putting just a
crack of air o n the cuttings, and then
working toward removing the cold
frame's panes. Fleece is very useful for
shading cuttings to reduce moisture
loss on bright days before the cuuings
are fully hardened. On sunn)' days, o pen
the frame to preven t warm air from
encouraging the buds to break early.
It may be necessary to water the
nursery bed a few times in au tumn and
(ver)' occasionally) during the winter. 1f
inserting cuttings in au1umn, remember
to provide some form of shading. Lift
TAKING CUTTINGS
To1, rl1h,J
of Clld1
cuumg 1.s
d rw of
nu·,lium
Pldstu 1t1U
\"ffU,('{J
IN t\ ~OLL Cut " strip oj hlacll
pfo.sric (ibour 2in (5cm) widt,. tl1cm lht>
l1eiglu of rhr currings. Cover it with a
¼in ( 1cm) layer of pcm and fine b,,,-1,.
Space rhe c1111i11gs aboi,1 Jin (8cm)
tlJXU't on 1l1t rncdimn. Roll U/J carefulf)',
secmt with raffia, label, mul wcll<T well.
(N BUNDLES Prepw·ecl cuttings
may be buncllccl up and ovenvinterctl
i11 6-8i11 (/5-20cm) of fine g1i 1 i11"
shelter~,, place to callus: 111a11y, here
tlogwo01I (Cornus) and willow (Salix)
cuuings. wiU root. In .spring. separmc
the bundles and line out in a bed.
and pot or plant out the rooted cuttings
in the following spring or autumn ,
depending on their rate or growth .
S AVING SPACE
If you are short or space, there are other
ways of rooting large !lumbers of easily
rooted hardwood cuttings (see above).
\.Vrap them in a plastic roll and pot
when they have rooted after 12- 20
weeks. Store bundles of cuttings in a
box of fine grit in a frost-rree place to
call us, and sometimes root, over winter.
Then plant out the cuuings in spring.
L ARGE NURSERY BED
Lnrgc 1111mbcrs of l,ardwood c1111i11gs, /,ere <>f
willows (Salix), ,ire bes, lined {)Ut in nursel')1
beds, grown 011 for a year, 1hc11 1>l<111tcd 0111.
99
SHRUBS AND CLIMBING PLANTS
SOFTWOOD CUTTINGS
In e{1rly spring to early summer. cur off 11011.flowel'ing,
] "igorous sl,oots (11crc of I lydrangea macrophylla) with
2-3 pairs of lecwes. Use pruners w cut just below c1nodc.
Pfos1i, IN1g
:._:::- - prc\'Cllts ~\ Hting
FHI 5i11 ( JJ011)pots with r'Ooting mnlium
3 ancl SJJC1ce die cuuings mvimcl the edgt. The
leaves should be j ust nbo"e the s111fnce of 1Jie
nu•dium and should nor (Ouch CC1cl1 other.
SOFTWOOD CUTTINGS
Softwood cuttings are taken from the
plan t in spring and early sununer, before
the new growth has begun to firm. This
1nethod is suitable for rnost deciduous
shrubs and climbers. Softwood cuttings
should usually be l '/2-2in ( 4-Sc,n) long,
with two or three pairs of leaves retained
at the top (see above). Keep the cuttings
in a clean plastic bag, until required, to
prevent the111 from wilting.
Remove the soft tip from each
cutting, because it is vulnerable to both
rotting and scorch. This also ensures
that, once rooted , the cutting does
not immediately grow upward from the
tip alone, thus ensuring a bush)' plant
fro,n the start. If the tip is removed ,
some growth hormones also become
redistributed to build up at the base of
the cutting, which will assist rooting.
Remove the lowest pair of leaves to
make it easier to insert the cutting into
100
Soft 11p rcnio,•e<l Cui lm~c k,,vcs it1 hatf
J,.0111 sl1oot - ~~ - r o ,·ec/uce moisture loss
·to prepan: each cutting, remove Lowest 1,c1ir of
2 the soft 1ip fro111 ,he shoot just Pttptued
rnuing
lc<n'C'~ tt:1110\'t'CJ
al,o,•e the node and thrn remove rite
lowest J>llir of leaves. The s1e111 of
rhe ClHling should be abo111 J1/.--2in
(4-5c111) i11 length.
_i,.' c..---""---t-c_,_
8
"'=;e,,...,,, "~""
\Vatr.r du: cuttings witl1 (! f ungicidal Once the cuuiugs lu,vr rooted, Jwrckn diem
4 snlutio11. l<zl>d, trncl pl(ICC under cove,: Le,1vt.·
i11 "shntleit place. Bouom licnt of 59°F (15°C)
5 off. Gently lease a1,an <111d /WI i11divithwlly
into J½in (9cm) pots. Pinch out the growing
will speed the rooting process. tiJ)S ro cncoiu·agc bushy growth (sec inset).
the medium. On delicate material , this
should be done cleanly with a sharp GREENWOOD CUTTINGS
knife or pruners; where there is no risk
of damaging the stem with more robust
plants, pinch off the foliage between
thumb and forefinger. Take care to leave
no snags, which may encourage rot.
Inserting the cuttings correctly is
important. With softwood cuttings, it is
best to make a hole in the medium with
a stick or pencil so the soft material is
able to enter the medium with minimal
resistance, thus reducing the risk of
damage. Insert each cutting to just
below the first pair of leaves, then firm
gently around each stem. Water in the
cuttings thoroughly with a fungicidal
solution so that the rned ium is moist
right to the container bottom. In fot e spring, talu~greenwood cuttings
The cuttings will benefit from a fro m "igoro11s shoots (here of Philadclphus)
warm , protected environment, such as 1hn1 arc Jinn a11it sligluly woody nt the bnse.
a closed case.To speed rooting, provide Prep,.,., nsfor softwood c11ui11gs (see above).
botton1 heat al a temperature of about

GROWN-ON CUTTINGS
Many dcc-iduous shrub cuttings vrnlluce
sig11ifica111 gmwtli in one yea,: T!,esc 2-3ft
(60-90cm) ,togwo0<ls (Co mus) were rnis,,d from
srcnHip rntritt~} wlien i,1 mitlsumme,; htl'l wider
cover over winw,; 1,Ja,ue<I in ct,rly swnmc, in
nursc,y beds. tmd gmwu on until l<Ut.' summer.
59°F ( 15°C) . When the cuuings root,
knock them out of the container and
gently pull them apart. Pot singly in
3¼in (9cm) polS. Pinch out the growing
tips of new plants lO encourage bushy
growth. Grow on in a sheltered si te.
G REENWOOD CUTTINGS
Greenwood cuuings are similar to
softwood cuuings but are taken when
the new growth is just beginning to
firm. This material is easier to handle
because it does not wilt quite so readily;
however, il is treated in the same wa)'.
Usual ly, there is no dis cernible
difference in stem color, and therefore
distinguishing between the two types
of culling is more a question of the feel
of the material. In realit)', man)' cullings
intended to be softwood end up as
greenwood cuuings - it is all a mauer
of timing. For most deciduous plants
and some evergreens, if you miss the
softwood season , greenwood cuuings
root just as well , but there are a few
exceptions (see pp. 118-45) .
STEM-TIP CUTTINGS
Stem-tip cuuings, in which the soft tip
is retained, are taken when the material
has ripened more than for softwood
or greenwood cuuings but the plant is
in active growth, usual ly around mid-
summer. The soft tip is then less likely
lo rot. This ,nethod, which can produce
excellent rapid growth ( see above), is
suitable for ,nost common deciduous
shrubs, such as fud1sia, Pote,uill<,,
\Veigela, lilacs, and mock orange, and
some evergreens, such as camellias,
heliotrope, and Hibiscus rosa-sinensis.
Nodal cuuings are more likely to
succeed, since some plants will not root
internodall y. Prepare each cuuing from
new growth, up to 4in (10cm) long, by
making a clean cut just below a node.
Continue as for softwood cuuings.
DIVISION
T his is a propagation technique that
is associated mainly with herbaceous
perennials (see pp.148-50) , but it is also
appropriate for a number of suckering
shrubs. Where on ly a few new plants
are needed , this 1nethod of propagation
is very quick and easy. Division can
be used for deciduous and evergreen
genera, such as Gaultlieria, Kerria,
Ruscus, and sweet box (Sarcococca).
Timing is not absolutely critical,
but in order to ensure success, division
of suckers is best carried out when
the plant is not actively gro,ving or is
dormant. Early spring is ideal; the plant
quick!)' recovers from tbe stress of the
division because the ground is usually
moi.st, and, although the soil is warming
up, the air temperature is not yet 100
high. Summer is best avoided because
the new planLS will be prone 10 wilting
and scorch in the hot sun.
Most shrubs produce suckers on
long underground stems (stolons); a
few, such as roses (see p.113), sucker
from the main stem jus t above the
roolS. When separating suckers from
the parent plant (see below), use a fork
to lift the underground stem that runs
DIVISlON OF SUCKERI NG SHRUBS
In eady St)riug. lift w1 unde,imuml s1em with
1 suckers cm it, wirhour disturbing ,lie porc,u
plmu (),ere" Gaulthcria s hallon). C!rcck 1hm
there are fibrous 1001s at die bcuc of the s11ckers.
Cut rhc main stem bacl~ lO the fibrous m"ts,
3 then divfrle ll,c :,ucl:ers s" that caclt h<is its
mvn roots. Cut l,acl: the wpgnnvrh by about half
ro reduce moisture Joss.
DIVISION
between the suckering shoots and the
parent plant. If the sucker has fibrous
roots at the base, it may be propagated:
sever the stem close to the parent plant
and prepare each sucker as shown below.
Replant the rooted suckers directly
into soil that has been prepared with
well-rotted manure or compost. Firm
and water in each sucker. A lterna1ively,
pot the suckers in pouing mix in 2-Jin
(5-8cm) pots. Water the suckers
regular!)' until the new plants are
well established. \>Vith plants such as
snowberries (Symphoricarpos) that are
usually prone 10 legginess, cut back
suckers to I 2- l8in (30-45cm) to ensure
bushy regrowth.
Shrubs that have a clumping habit
may be divided in a similar way to
herbaceous plants (see p.148). Lift the
en tire clump, divide into good-sized
pieces with healthy roolS and top-
growth using a spade or sharp knife,
and discard the rest. Division of this
sort may also be used to rejuvenate a
mature shrub that has grown be)'ond its
designated area; a common example of
this is Sorbaria sorbifolia. Prepare and
grow on the divisions as for suckers.
Usi11g" slwrp pair of pmners. remove rhc
2 long. s11chrri11g 51,,,,, hy c1111i11g ii off close
to the parcnr pl<1111. Finn hack 1!,e S-Oil welt
(ffotmd tl1t base of rite: pmT:mt plant.
Replant 1Jie sudicrs in open ground or in
4 2-3in (5-8cm) pors. Finn the soil well
around 1l1r suckers, wmcr in, mul label. \¼ucr
regularly \,1hife the sud:ers are cs1<11Jfisliing.
101
SHRUBS AND CL IMBING PLANTS
SOWING SEEDS
he re arc many shrubs and cli,nbers
T lhal can be grown from seeds, wilh
always the c hance of c reating somelhing
new. The sen se o f e xcitem en t as
germination takes place and seedlings
appear is the sa,ne however long it
takes, be it a Dapl111c requiring a ,vinter's
chill or an Ab11tilo11 lhal needs on ly
a warm, moisl so il mix in s pring.
Remember that only species "come lrue"
from seeds; a plant grown from seeds
gathered from your favo rile Caryopteris
cu hivar is unlikely 10 have exact!)' the
sam e charac leristics as its parent.
Shrubs and climbers have lhree basic
types of seedhead: nuts or nullike fruit
containing often s hon-lived seeds with
a high water contenl (such as Co,y lus);
capsules or pods lhat enclose smaller,
drie r seeds (such as Cyiisus); and ncshy
fruits and berries (such as Viburnum).
The firsl consideralion when galhering
seeds is that the plant fro1n which you
propose lO galher must be heallhy and
vigoro us. Planls s howing a lack of vigor
will oflen be harboring viruses, which
can be lransferred by seed s.
N UTS ANO NUTllKE FRUITS
N uls and nullike fruils generally ripen
in autumn; lhey should be gathered
when they would naturally fall , or just
im,nediate ly before. Gather them by
hand-picking; alternatively, if the p lanl
is large enough, p lace a s heet of c lolh
or plastic aroun'd its base and s hake the
branches unlil the nuts fall onlo the
sheet. Remove lhe nuls from the ouler
casi ngs, clean, and sow al once in d eep
pots. Discard any nuts that show lhe
slightest imperfections.
Ahernalively, slore lhe cleaned
seeds in mois t peal in a bag hung up
in a garage or shed and out of reach of
rodents (or in a refrigerator), and sow
them in la le winter lo spring. This is
SCARIFYING SEEDS OF SH RUBS AND CLIMBING PLANTS
••
U SING ,I KNIFE Niel, ,he 111ml coa, of very
large seeds (here of Paconia clclavayi var: lutca)
with a slw11, lmife (see inset). Taite care nor 10
damage <he "'eye· of <lie seed or to c111 100 deeply.
102
GATHERING SEEDS FROM RIPE BERRIES
F(,r berries with f<1rge seeds (hen· Mahonia),
1 pw " hcmclful i,uo cht'CScdo1h or ,uuslin,
twist w :;:Clure, and hofcl under colcl ,mming
wmer. S<1ueczc until ,w n10n· j uire runs out.
advisable in areas where the soil is
poorly drained and there are u sually
above-average levels or winte r rainfall.
Poos ANO CAPSULES
Dry seeds that have been collected from
pods o r capsules are easier to handle
than the moist seeds found in nuts and
nutlikc fruils; if stored correc tly, they
will retain their viability for man)' )'Cars.
Check s uitable seedpods daily as they
begin Lo ripen; they are usuall y ready
for gathering once the pod s tans to turn
fro m green to brown.
Always gather pods or capsules when
lhe wealher is dry, since moisture will
increase the likelihood of fungal aLtack.
Berore gathering medium-sized o r large
seeds, open one o r two of lhe seedpods
to see if there is in fact a developed seed
inside. Ripe, viable seeds are p lump,
healthy, and usually Slill green.
Place lhe pods in a paper bag and
seal it tightly. Alte rnatively, spread the
pods on news paper in a tray and cover
U SING SANDPAPER Place s111alle1; hard-coa<cd
seeds (l,ere of Caragana brevispina) be<ween
two sJ1eers of sandpa1,er in a seed rrny tmd nib
them to scl'atch and wcalten r1ieir surfaces.
Opc•n out die cloth ccnefully cmd pick our
2 1he seeds from the mashed pull'. Alloh'
rhcru w d,y mi some pllpr, wwels or bloui11g
pap,·r in an C1i1y p!«cc for" cC1uplc of days.
them with neece or more n ews paper -
pods often "explode'· lo shed their seeds
in all directio ns.
Some subsh rubs lhat produce flower
spikes may be treated as if they were
herbaceous perennials; cut off a complete
s pike or seed capsules and hang it upside
down in a paper bag. After a few days,
shake the drying seeds free. Do not be
templed to extract seeds that remain in
the capsules, since these are likely 10 be
unripe and nonviable.
After ex tracting the seeds, clean off
any chaff aLtached to 1he1n, since such
mate rial is likely lO rol, increasing lhe
likelihood of damping off (see p.46).
Remove the worst of the debris by hand;
alternati vely, run the seeds through a
series or sieves (see p.28) until only
clean seeds remain.
Store dry seeds in a refrigerator. Place
them in a clearly labeled paper bag o r
envelope inside a plastic box or cookie
tin. To maintain a dry atmosphere, first
p lace silica gel in the bou om of the tin.
USING HOT WATER To sof,cn rhe seeclcoa<s of
smaller scecls (here ofSophora davidii), place
in a bowl tmd pour boiling water over tliem.
Alloh' to soal: for 24 houfs, then sow tU once.
 SO\.Vl NG SEEDS

SOWING SEEDS IN CONTAINERS

Moltc" hole
in 1mfmnal
soil mix

Fifi a tray with seed soH mix.
1 Finn gc111fy. wntcr; <m<l allow
10 drain. Sow 1l1e seeds evenly over
1hc su,fc1cr by tal'ping 1Jie111 Jmm c,
folded l'icce of /J<lpo.
Co\'er tl,e seeds wi,h <~ fi ne
2 foyer of suil mix, then add a
¼i11 (5mm) layer of grit. Label and
cc,ver with wire Jtftting 10 proiect
ihe seedlings. l'foce i11 a c11/d frame.
Once the germinarcd seedlings
3 are lal'ge enough 10 handle, lif1
1/iem carefully, using a /wife OI'
similar implement. Alwtlys l1old
1/te seedlings by their leaves.
4
Insert die seedlings singly into
2½-3½in (6-9c111) pois, 0 1 i11
rows into imy s, in somess pouing
mix. Genrly Ji,-,11 aromul die base
of e<1d1seedling. L<,bcl: wmer.

sowing by soaking the seeds in hot water,

COLD STRATIFICATION OF SEEDS mild detergent, or alcohol. Wash 1he
seeds thoroughly arterward.
Some seeds need several treatments
for 1nuhiple dormancies; scariry them
first 10 allow other treaunenlS 10 take
effect. A safer o ption is 10 sow the seeds
outdoors and let nature take its course.

B EFORE SOWING Seeds llial ,.,., s1ored before
sowing (liere of Aronia melanocarpa) am be
chilled in a refrigerator. Put ,hem in some
moist vcrn1iculi,e or peat in a dear plasric
b<1g, l<1bel, tmd Slore for l-3 111on1lis.
FLESHY FRUITS AND BERRIES
These are usual!)' hard and green and ,
as 1hey ripen, soften and change color,
often from yellow 10 red. The important
thing is 10 watch ou1 for the turn . 1f )'OU
leave ii LOO late, the soft, succulen t fruit
may be taken by bi rds. Gather fruits by
hand-picking o r shaking the plan t.
Removing the seeds fro,n fruits or
berries can be achieved in many ways.
Squeeze berries in cloth (see facing page),
gently mash them through a sieve, then
wash off the pulp. Alternatively, pu1
rruit in water to rot, then mash the
pulp and place in clean water. The pu lp
and dead seeds shou ld rise to 1hc 1op
while viable, heavy seeds sc11le on the
bono,n . Whichever method you choose,
dry the seeds on paper towels for a
couple of days before storing 1he1n.
With members or the rose fam ily
(Rosaceae), it is frequentl y best 10 layer
whole fruits in coarse sand in a tray or
in a large pol and leave them outside
for the winter. Keep 1he sand moist.
This provides 1he period or chill ing
needed before many or this family
AFTER $0\VINC Seeds '""' lll'e sown fres h,
such <1.s clematis, can be plunged in (i scmdbed
or cold jP'ame ouuloors over winter. Sow seeds
thinly in pans of g,itty seed soif mix, d1en cover
wiih a fi ne layer of mix mod one of grit.
germinate. ln lat e winier or earl)' spring,
remove the decom posed fruits from
the sand .
SCARIFICATION OF SEEDS
Many shrubs and climbers, especially
members or the pea and bean famil)•
( Fabaceae), have hard seed coats that
prevent germ ination until the coat is
broken down to admit moisture 10 the
seed within. There are several ways to
deal with this problem; these are known
as scarification and involve nicking o r
abrading the seeds or soaking 1he1n in
hot water (see faci ng page).
Nature softens hard seed coats by
subjecting the seeds LO warm , moist
conditions in spring, when bacterial
activity is al its height. This can be
mimicked by storing 1he seeds in moist
soil mix and hangi ng then, up in a shed
during the summer. In conunerce, ror
roses particularly, compost activators
may be added LO speed up the process.
Some impermeable seeds have
chemical germination inhibitors on the
seed coa15: re,nove 1hese just before
STRATIFICATION OF SEEDS
Some seeds are prompted LO germinate
by temperature changes. Many woody
planlS native LO temperate climates
ex hibit cold-temperature dormancy,
where seeds require a winter's chilling
before genninating in spring. This can
be overcome by storing the seeds in a
refrigerato r al 41 °F (5°C) before sowing,
or by sowing in autumn and over-
wintering outdoors (see left). Even seeds
1ha1 do 1101 need winter chilling may
germ inate more quickly and uniformly
after a shon period of cold stratification.
Some hard-coated seeds require a
period of warm stratification . Place the
seeds in a plastic bag in an equal volume
or sand and leaf mold , or an equal
volume of peat and sand, and store for
4-12 weeks al 68-77°F (20-25°C). This
is usually rollowed by cold stratification
berore sowing.
SMOKE TREATMENT OF SEEDS
In nature, some seeds gernli na1e only
after a bush fire. The flames scarify 1he
seed coal, and chem icals in the smoke
stin1ula1c gennination. To si mulate this,
sow a tray of seeds, cover with 2½-4in
(6-lOcm) or dr)• leaves, burn then1, and
water in the ash. Kits, smoke paper,
and smoke water containing chemicals
found in smoke may also be available.
SOWING SEEDS IN CONTAINERS
Most seeds of sh rubs and cl imbing
planlS are best sown in containers (sec
above), so 1ha1 the cond itions they need
can be easily provided. Seeds that need
a period of ch illing or 1ake more than a
year lo germinate, such as Daphne, can
be sown in autumn (corui111,ed on p.104)

103
SHRUBS AND CLIMBING PLANTS
COVERING SEEDS SOWN I N CONTAINERS
VERMICULITE
Use a ½in
(1cm) layer
of vcnniculire
to cover fast·
genninating
seeds, usually of
climbers or render
shntbs. Vermiculite
111/ows air and ligh1
to reach tlic scrds
and lu::i'IJS iheni moisr.
(co111i11uedfrom p.103) and overwintered
in cool climates in a sheltered place, such
as a sandbed or cold frame. (ln areas
without cold winters, such seeds should
be stratified in a refrigera1or, see p.103.)
Other seeds germinate readily from a
spring sowing; these are treated in the
same way as bedding plants or easy
herbaceous perennials, and the seedlings
are sui ted 10 1he con trolled atmosphere
or a greenhouse. Ab111ilor1, for example,
responds well to this treatment.
SOWING THE SEEDS
Fill seed trays, seed pans, or pots with a
good-qualiL)', griny seed soil mix (see
p.34), containing on ly a liule fertilizer -
100 much can kill seedlings. Thoroughly
water the mix before sowing.
For small or medium -sized seeds,
firm the soil mix 10 leave a ¼in (3mm)
gap between the 1nix and the rim. For
large seeds, the gap may be ¼-¼in
(10-l 5mm). Sow the seeds and cover
with a fine layer or mix . Then add '/4in
(5m1n) or coarse sand or fine grit (see
above rig/11) for autumn-sown seeds.
For spring sowings, instead or grit use
a ½in (lc,n) layer or venniculite (see
above left): fine-grade for small or
medium-sized seeds, medium-grade
for large seeds.
Some seeds, such as rhododendron
seeds, are so fine that they do not have
sufficient rood reserves to push through
the soil mix , or they require light in
order to germinate. Sow such seeds on
the surface or n1ix that has been sieved:
tiny seeds can easily fall between cracks
of a coarse surface. To give Lhe seedlings
as much light as possible, leave only
a fraction of an inch between the soil
tnix and the rim. Mix the seeds with a
small amount of fine sand, then gently
tap the mixture onto the soil mix to
sow evenly.
104
GRIT Cover slow-gen11i11ating seeds, mostly
of lwrdy species, wi1h Ji11e grit or coarse sand
wallow seedlings to grow heahhily (sec riglll).
lf soil mL< is expos«! Jo,· a long "'l,ilc, it is
susccpt ibk w growth of moss ancl liverworts,
h'hich competes with seedlings (see left).
AUTUMN-SOWN SEEDS
After sowing, label the containers and
cover with wire nening to protect the
seedlings from birds or animals. Place
in a sheltered place (see below) to over-
winter at 14-28°F (-10 10 -2°C) and
subsequently germinate. Check them
regularly and water if necessary.
When the seedlings are large enough
to handle, they should be transplanted
individual!)' into cells, trays, or small
pots (see p.103). Take care not to disturb
their rooLS. This may be in the first
spring after sowing, or up to a year after
gennination. If then grown on under
protection as before, the new plants
should make rapid growth.
SPRING-SOWN SEEDS
A temperature of 59-68°F ( 15-20°C)
is required for germination, unless
otherwise stated (see A-Z or Shrubs
SEEDLINGS IN A COLD FRAME
and Cl imbing Plants, pp.118--45).
The surface of the soil ,nix must also
remain mois1 at all times; either place
the container in a closed case, under a
plastic tent, on a mist bench , or cover it
with a sheet of glass. Some seeds require
bottom heat for successful germination;
for these, a propagating blanket (see
p.41) covered with capillary matting
works well.
Fine seeds that lose viability at
temperatures above 68°F (20°C) respond
well 10 being placed on a mist bench,
but seeds requiring tempera1ures higher
than this often struggle 10 germinate,
owing to the cooling effect of the mist.
Inspect the soil 1nix regularly to
check 1hat it has not dried out, and
water as necessary. Never water a
container from above once fine seed is
surface-sown: place it in a shallow dish
or water for a short time. Spray the
seedlings occasionally with fungicide.
When the seedlings are large enough
to handle, transplant into trays or pots
in low-nutrient potting 1nix, as for
au1u1nn-sown seeds. Place out of direct
sun light unti l established. 1-larden off
)'Oung plants by gradually exposing
them 10 outdoor conditions.
SOWING IN RAISED SEEDBEDS
Seeds of some shrubs and climbers,
especial!)' those native to your area,
can be sown outside in raised seedbeds.
Select a sheltered site and raise the
soil level by Sin (20cm) to ilnprove the
drainage. Remove perennial weeds and
dig the soi l thoroughly. Large seeds can
be sown in rows in autu,nn; smaller ones
can be left until late winter. Cover with
'/4- l '/4in (2-3cm) or pea gravel. Do not
allow germinating seeds 10 dry out; cover
with neece or loose leaves 10 reduce frost
heaving. (See also Garden Trees, p.55.)
Some seeds, es1,ecially
of l1ardy s1111,bs or
cfimbtrs, 1t'quire
a period of wimcr
cllilli11g before they
wiU gcnnllwre. ftr
c"ldrr climmes, place
contoiners of seeds in
a cold fmme after
autumn sowing. TJ1e
cola JJ'(m1e allows
exposure to cold
while pmtecting
the seeds from
dis111,·ba11ce by birds,
animals. or rlrr
clemen(s. Once du:
seeds gcnnimHe. die
sc('{llings can remain
in the cold frame for
up to a year before
l,eing trnnspla,ued.

LAYERING
I n nature, many plants reproduce by
layering, a process where rooLS form at
the point at which a plant's stein touches
the soil. Some planls have shoots that
trail along 1he ground, such as snow-
berries (Symplwricarpos) or heathers
(see p.111); others with an upright habit
may suffer storm damage that causes
a branch to foll to the ground while
remaining partly anached to the plant.
Layering is like rooting cutlings that
are still attached to, and are protec1ed
by, the parent plant, and consequently
does not require as controlled an
environment 10 succeed (unless layering
a tropical plant in a cool climate). Many
shrubs that are difficult 10 root fro,n
cuuings, such as smoke bush (Coli1111s)
and hazels (Co,ylus), respond well to
layering. Layering requires less skill and
aftercare than grafting, which is often
used for plants that are difficult to root.
If 0111)' one or two planLS are wanted,
air or simple layering can be used to
propagate many shrubs or climbers
quickly. Other fonns of layering produce
greater numbers of new plants, or layers.
AIR LAYERING SHRUBS AND CLIMBERS
/11 spring, choose a 1-2-year-olcl shoot 1h01
l is srrnig/11, healthy. aud vigor1>11s (here 1,f a
rhodoclcml,0,1). ·rrim off sideshoots c,nd leaves
for 11bour I 2i11 (30cm). Do 1101 le<1vr 111,y s11C1gs.
Seal 1/1c 11/)/JCI' end of the sleeve around the
4stem with more rnpe. Blach plastic rewins
mois111re wirhour encouraging gmwrh of algae.
Lem•e c/,e layer i11 place for 11p 10 11 yc11, Cl,ec/1
ii occ11.sio1111//y for signs of rooting.
A IR LAYERING
Air layering is normally used when it is
not possible to lower a branch down to
ground level. It can be successful in a
wide range of shrubs and climbers, from
the tender rubber plant (Ficus elasLica
'Decora') and philodendrons to many
hardy species. This technique can
produce a Daplme large enough to be
planted straight into the garden within
12 months. Plants are best air layered in
spring for replanting in the au1u1nn or
the following spring.
Layers may be made on wood of any
age, but material that is 1-2 years old
produces roots more readily (see below).
Select a straight branch and trim off any
leaves and sideshoots to leave about
12in (30cm) of clear stem. Wound the
stem by making a sloping cut into the
center of the stem to create a "tongue."
Alternatively, remove a band of bark
'/. -½in (5-12mm) wide by scoring two
shallow, parallel cuLS around the s1em
and peeling off the bark. Apply hormone
rooting compound to the wound to
encourage rooting.
Tongut' liolcls
moss in 11l'1ce
\\found dtr srem, malling" l ¼in (3tm)
2 angled cur rowarcl tire shoot tip (see inse1).
Apply liormone rooting comvound to the wound,
Pacll it will, a Huie moist sphag111m1 moss.
LAYERING
Tuck some mois1 sphagnum moss into
the sloping cut or the wound to keep it
open, usi ng the reverse of a knife blade.
Enclose Lhe wound in a black plastic
sleeve, secured below the wound , to
keep out moisture and prevent growth
of algae. Pack 1he sleeve with sphagnum
moss, then secure it above the wound.
Alternatively, use clear plastic wrap for
the sleeve and cover it with black plastic
or alum inum foi l.
Leave the layer in place, occasionally
removing the plastic sleeve to check for
rooting, which should occur wi1hin a
year. When roots have developed, sever
the new plant below the wound and pot
or replant it. 'vVater in well at planting
time, and again 1hroughou1 the first
summer until it is well established. In
colder climates, in the first few weeks
cover 1he plant with neece 10 pro1ec1 it
fron1 the ele1nenLS.
For lender planLS that are grown
under cover in cooler regions, the
technique is identical, but rooting takes
place more quickly; new planLS can be
ready for potting within 2-3 months.
\Vrnp rite seen, loosely wich blac'1 plas1ic.
3 Seal it arouml the Siem and below the
wouml witl1 wpc. Paclt the sleeve wirl1 moss
to cover the wou11cl.
\Vl,e11 Slr1>ng
5 new roots have
formed , caref11/ly
remove cite plaslic
slee,1e. Cut rhrough
rhe stem jusr below
Ihe root bid I. Tease
out tlu: roots. IJut do
not try to remove
all 1/,c moss. For
rhodo<lentlrons, ,,rnne
back new growth ro
one bud above 11,c olcl
wood. Poe che layer
in soilless /JOlling
mix or pla,11 ow in
prepared soil. \Valer
well and label.
105
SH RUBS ANO CLIMBING PLANTS

SIMPLE LAYERING
When you want onl)' a couple of new
plants, simple layering is a good way of
propagating a wide range of shrubs and
climbers quickly. You can do this al any
time of the year, but the best thnes are
autum n and early spring. The pliant
shoots of most climbers can be simply
pegged onto the su rface of the soil to
root, while the stiffer stems of many
shrubs require a trench.
For most climbing planLS, choose a
shoot no more than two )'Cars old and
2-3 ft (60-90cm) long that is growing
horizontally and close 10 the g round
and is supple enough 10 be pinned
down and then bent upward at a right
angle. Avoid very thin stems and thick
watershoolS. If no suitable material is
available, prune the plant back hard 10
encourage 1nore vigorous new shoots.
Before securing the layer, prepare the
ground next lO the parent plant where
the shoot reaches the surface by digging
it over and incorporating into it some
free-drai ning rooting 1nediu1n to a depth
of 12in (30cm). Make sure that the
mediu111 is mixed thorough ly into the
soil; rooting medium quickly dries out
if exposed 10 the air.
Trim off any leaves and sideshoots
fro111 the layer for l2in (30cm) behind
the growing tip (see below). Wound the
underside of the stem of the layer about
halfway along its length, or through a
node , by making a slanting cut through
10 the middle of the stem, to fonn a
"tongue." Alternatively, twist the stem lo
damage the bark or remove a !in (2.Sc,n)
sliver of bark fro,n the underside of the
stem. Treat the wound with hormone
rooting compound.
Remove some of the enriched soil
from underneath the layer before
pinning it down securely with several
long, galvanized-wire, U-shaped pins
or staples on each side of the wound.
Ideally, you should pin the layer down
at the point where one-year-old wood
joins older wood. In practice, this is not
always possible since the branch may
not be long enough. Mound up soil over
the layer 10 a depth of 3in (8cm) and
firm - o therwise as the soi l settles it will
leave the stem exposed. Bend the tip of
the shoot so that it is as close to vertical
as possible, and attach it to a stake. The
angle created by bending the shoot aids
rooting by concentrating the growth
hormones at the rooting site instead
of the growing tip. As the shoot grows,
continue 10 tie it in loosely. \l\later the
layer well , and check it weekly during
the summer 10 ensure that it does not
dry out. Keep the area free of weeds.
Some plants root quickly, but most
take at least a year. Oo not be 100
anxious to separate the layer from iLS
parent, si nce it is crucial for the young
plant to establish a good root S)'Stem.
When well rooted, sever the new plant,
and either pot up or plant out directly.
When layering a shrub (see below),
select a plian t shoot and prepare the
stem as for climbers. Use a stake to
mark where the stem touches the
g round. Dig a sloping trench , 3in (8cm)
deep, and peg the shoot in to the bottom.
Bend the shoot 10 as near vertical as it
will go, and tic the stem tip 10 the stake.
Backfill the hole, firm, and water in .

SIMPLE LAYERING OF A CLIMBER

SIMPLE LAYERING
OF A SHRUB

!
j
In cmtwnn. select a young, low- Mcdle <1 slaming cut tip w Jin Use c, brush IQ dus1
] growing shoo, (/rcre of Akcbia
quinarn). Remove leaves and sitle·
2 (2.5cm) long, on rhc underside
of the shoo,, i11 iJ,c middle of rhe
3 rhe wound with hom1011c
motiug compo1111cl. lien_· powder 1\IJarh the position where die
shoots from,., leas, 12in (JOcm) of
rhc stem bel1i11tl the shoor iii',
elem· length of stem, to nwhe a
.. tongue."
(sec inset). Slwlic off a11y e,uss. 1stem touches rhe soif will, a
swlic. Dig (i slol'ing trench about
Jin (8cm) deep leaclingfrom 1l1C
stahe towmtl rl1e shrnb.

Peg 1he elem, lcngrh of stem,
4 wounded side ,lown. huo ll,e
soil will, wire swpks. Mound up
the soil w a clep1h of Jin (8011)
over 1/ie shoo,. Stal1e the 1ip of rhc
shoo, 10 lleep i1 u111igl11.
Once it has rooted, usually in
5 the following ,wwmn, sever
rhc layn close 10 1hc pare111 pla111
a11cl lif1 1lie layer wi1h a ha11d Jori,.
Cut away the old seem on cl,e layer
back lO du· new roots.
Pot the new plm11 into soilless
6 JJOtling mix, wme,· well, and
label. Plant it 0111 when well
eswblished. Allrrnaiively, yoll ca11
plant ir directly into irs 1>ermm1c11r
growing position.
2
Peg rhe prepared srem i1110
1/1e base of the irenc/1 wi1/1
wire staples. Bend up rhe srcm
tip mill rie. it to 1/ie stalu:. FiJI in
1he hole, lightly firm. and water.

106
 LAYERING

SELF-LAY ERI NG A CLIMBER

\\lliere a shoo1 (here of 1111 ivy. Mcdcra) lias
1 roorccl i11w the gmwul cmd is producing
luwlthy, ntw growrl1, Cttr<fully lift it,. using"
hand Jori,. \Viti, pruners, sever tl,r self-layered
stem from die pcire,u plwu. culling straiglu
across the sum just above ci node.
Cw the rootccl stem i1110 sections, making
2 sure each has a good root system and s1rong
new growd1. Remove the lower lctlvcs from cc,d1
section. cuuing close ro the main stem. Sections
with just one or two leaves (see top right) can
be used bur will 1af1e longer IO eswblisl1.
Pot each layer individually using soillcss
3 pouing mix. \\later weU and label. Grow on
in a sheltered spot outdoors until 1l1e new plants
/,ecome establisl1ed. Seaions thw arc already
well roo1ed can be planted directly into 1hcir
final posirions.

S ELF- LAYERING SERPENTINE LAYERING OF A CLIMBER

Some p lanlS, such as ivies ( Hedera) an d
some of lhe smaller-leaved, low-growing
cotoneasters, naturally layer themselves,
their s prawling s tem s rooti ng in to the
ground as they grow. To propagate them,
li ft a rooted shoot with a han d fork,
sever it with pru ners, c ul into rooted
sections, and p ot singly (see above).
Altern alively, re,n ove a rooted
sideshoot, o r layer, b)' cutting th rough
the main s tem on ei ther side with a
spade. Well-rooted layers ,nay be
planted out; th is is best done in earl)'
spring, when the la)•ers will establish
quickly in the warming soil. \Vhen
planting, p re pare the g round th oroughly
and water in wel l. ln colder cli mates,
protect the new p lan ts with fleece for
a few days wh ile they establish.
SERPENTINE LAYERING
This is useful for plan ts that p roduce
long shoots o f new g rowth each year,
including m any c li,nbers s uch as
clematis, golden hops, grapes, and
wisteria. 1n e ffect, it ad apts the process
of self-layering and ,nakes it possible to
Dcvdo11i11g ,001 systrm
Sttm Jip ketp$ Sraples keep
growh1g stems in COtll(ICf
with tlu~soil
•.
To LAYER A SHOOT Choose a H ow LAYERS DEVELOP Once
hetdd1y, trailing shoot ,md Him d1r Sltm h in co1llllCt with ihe
off the le11vc, 111111 si<le,lwo1s. ground, the wmuub srimufme
\Vowul tlrt~stem between each H.)Oling. Nut1ie111s for this pl'OCcss
node (see above) or jusr bcllind arc prot•idcd by the 1xu·c111 plant
1he growth buds (sec left). AJ>ply as the growing tip of rhc shoor
hormtmt rooting powcler to draws sal' along 1l1c layered
encournge rooting, then 1,in 1he stem (sec above). Tl,c l(lyers.
stem to the ground, over 11,._~ each with t'Oob aml <1 slioot,
wom1d, with wire swples. cw1 be several when rooted.
FRENCH LAYERING A SHRUB
Fre nch layering of ornamental shrubs is The following earl)' spring, trim ,he growing
no t ofte n unde rtaken commercially because tips and pin lhe shoots down on prepared
of the leng,h of lime it takes. but it is soil so thC) radiate from the parent plant
1

obtain qu ite a few layers from o ne s hoot. worthwhile for the garde ne r: it is very li ke spokes on a wheel. As sideshoo1s grow,
In earl)' spring, pre pare the g round as reliable, especially for shrubs that are mound ,hem with soil (see below). \Vater
for simple layering (see facing page), . difficuh ,o roo1. h involves cu11ing back a and weed the layers regularly. In autumn,
take one of the p revious year's s hoots, vigorous, young stock plant to 2in (5cm} in lift and sever the rooted layers from the
and bring it to ground level. If the sten1 spring to encourage formation of long. new paren1 for poll ing or plan1ing. The shools
is very th in . there is no n eed to wound shoo1s. a process called srooling (see p.2'/) . a, ,he ccmer can be layered nexl year.
it, but wou nd ing s peeds the process.
Wou nd th e s ten1 between the nodes R OOTING l.i\YERS
New si'1tshoo1
and "snake" the s hoot in a nd out of the (foyer)
Pin down each s11001
soil (see above right), p inning the of the previous
wounds below the soil with wire staples Next yee1'1 season~ growth.
shoots
so tha t at least on e bud remai ns above When 1he sideshoo1s
dr,•doping - ~~-'I,~
ground between the layers. Alte rnatively, 1111, 216-Ji11 (6-8cm)
wound j ust beh ind a nod e, o r even ·.- ·.·.·.·.~.. tall, mound soil over
through it, and "snake" th e sh oot ... .' ..· . .. . . ... '
. ... ..· . 111cm, fcwving the
along the soil su rface, pinning the s tem ... lips exposed. Mo1111d
over the wounds. Ofte n layers root by again lmcr in die
autumn , but some take until s pring. Soil momul O\'C:r summer to a dqul,
\Vhen the layers a re well rooted , treat Stooled 11are111 pl<lnt N~·w roots layel'(,l sho-oi of 6in (l5c111).
them as for sel f-layering (see ,ibove}.

107
SHRUBS AND CLIMBING PLA NTS
GRAFTING
rafting is often used for cuhivars
G that are difficult to propagate by
other means or 10 produce a plant
more quickly. There are many different
1ypes of g raft. For most shrubs and
cli,nbers, the best choice is apical-wedge
grafting (see below). This graft provides
consisten tly good results and is one
of the easiest to perform. Other grafts
suitable for sh rubs and climbers include
whip grafting and spliced side-veneer
grafting (see facing page).
The first requirement is a good-
quali ty rootstock, that is, a plant of a
species compatible wilh the cultivar 10
be grafted. Usually this is a one or two-
)'ear-old seedling, but wi th magnolias
and rhododendrons, stocks can also
be raised from cuuings. For summer
grafting, stocks must be container-
grown; for winter grafting, they can be
either container-gro wn o r bare-root.
If raising only a few roo1s1ocks,
transplant seedlings into deep, square
3½in (9cm) pois, 10 provide space for
the all-important root system to develop.
W ith some plants, the seedling will have
g rown sufficiently 10 graft in the first
sum,ner or winier. Normally, the stock
is ready when its girth measures '/-'/4in
(6-lOmm), but il is more important that
APICAL-W EDGE GRAFTING
E\'t:11ly be1lc111c.t"d,
Ow·r-
tle\•dO/>Ctl
hr'111l1)' bucls
lrading bud
BAD GOOD
EXAMPLE EXAMPLE
1,,he scions from rip<!, healthy
1 shoots of die curP't.'nl sc,1s0113:
growth. with good bucls at the tips
cmd closdy Sf'<tced nodes.
i\lai11tai11 e-vf11
prc:ssur«· while
binding grnfr
108
the stock girth matches that of the scion
(see p.27). Particularly in summer, stock
and scion should be at a similar stage of
growth. Keep the soil mix of container-
grown stocks just 1nois1 for two weeks
before grafting so that the union is not
flooded b)' an overactive flow of sap,
which will stop it uniting with the scion.
Always take scions from cultivars
that arc true 10 type, free of pests and
diseases . and still producing good levels
of extension growth (new·shoots that
increase the plant's size) annually. The
length of the scion depends o n what is
available, but 3-5in (8-12cm), with two
to four healthy buds , is usually best.
There is no strict rule as to the girth , but
anything less than ¼in (8mm) is difficult
to work with. vVhere new growth is
lim ited, try smaller scions, but a good
union is less assured. If new growth is
poor, use two-year-old wood; this
produces very acceptable results with
Hibiscus and so,ne o ther genera.
II is vital 1101 10 let the scion material
dry out, so un less il is used immediat ely,
store it in a plastic bag in a refrigerator,
where it will stay fresh for up 10 a week.
Making accurate grafting cuts is crucial
10 success, so practice making the cuts
o n other shoots, such as willow, first.
Cut vcrlitC1lly
into a ,lltf
of stem
T,im a scion s11001 to 4-6in
2 (IO-J5c111) with 4-6 11odes.
Malle two sfcmting cuts, Y- l¼in
3 Head bacl, a bare-root scocl,
pla111 (11ere Hibi scus syriacus)
ro Iin (2.5cm) ,1bo,1e the mms. Cut
C2-3c111) 1011g, ,11 the base (inse1). '/- J¼i11 (2-Jcm) huo the srem.
Bind the Seal the "church window ..
5 graft with 6
a
of the scio11 wul the cue
IJaffQ\Y surface of the stocl, with wax (
rubber band, or wmmd s,wla,11 10 prevent
(ut to fo rm a any moisture Joss. If
slri/J. \½-ap ii using wax, melt (I liule
from tl,e I0/1 of in a jar srood in ( I bowl
tl,c Stoel, to just of boiling water, and
below the graft. apply with a elem,
If the scion bud plant lal,el or small
is large, bind paimbn,sh.
around it. Ti,d:
in the end of
the rubber bwul
to secure ir.
APICAL•WEDGE GRAFTING
When preparing a scion (see below),
imagine you are making a sharpened
spear. Make an angled cut at the base,
normally starting just above a bud and
exiling at the center of the stem base.
Move the knife slowly through the stem
10 perfect an evenly slanting cut. Repeat
on the other side of the s1e111 10 create a
symmetrical wedge.
The cambium layer, a band of thin-
walled cel ls between the bark and the
wood and essential to the success of the
graft, shou ld now be exposed. Remove
any weak or unripe terminal buds at the
top of the scion. vVith some material,
such as wisteria, iL is possible to create
several scions from o ne length of wood.
To prepare a roo1s1ock, clean and dry
the stem, then head iL back 10 just above
the roots; cut straight across the stem
and leave just enough for easy handling.
If the cul is al all uneven, sl ice off a thin
layer to neaten the su rface. Make a
vertical slit in the newly cut surface of
the stock 10 a depth '-'in (2-3mm) shorter
than the scion's wedge. Where the stock
and scion are of a similar girth, make the
cut o n the stock in the middle so that the
cambium layers match up exactl y; if the
scion is smaller, cut the stock off-center
Align snon
cuuJ s1ocJr
lrasr
E.,t"""' lop of
- .j 011 al cut 0 ,1 sdo11, or
("14! ~idt ~chmrf1 windo""
10 f llSUf(
ccm1biums
touch
4 Pusl, the wedge-shap<!d base of
the scio11 carefully i1110 rhe cut
on rhe swcl1. M<ll:t sure lluH rl1e
cambiums of stock ,md scion meet.
/.
Lay the grnfred /Jfan1 i11 a seed
7 rmy, with the scion resting on
the rim. Cover tlie roots and graft
wirh moisr soil mix. Label.

COM MO N TYPES OF GRAFT
Wmr GRAFT If morsrocf,
and scion (lirre a Pi1tosporum)
"are closdy similar gi,d1s. Cl
simple slanting c1u 011 each can
be made. Pf11cr rogrrher so rliar
r,,e cmnbium:,, on both sicks of
the graft meet. Tl1i; semi-ripe
01· lwrd..-ood scion should
be .3-4in (8-IOcm) long. if
possible wirh " bud ar 11,c base.
I-J Y.111 (2.5-Jtm) obli,,,u·
rnb dn "' IOII wuf mu I:
to make a narrower incision and ensure
tl1e cambiums matc h on both s ides.
Another option is to match ca111biums
on o ne sid e onl)' (see facing page). Pu sh
the scion gently into the sl it in the
stock, a ll the way to the bollom; this
should leave a little of the cut surface
of the scion exposed - the "church
window" - to let excess sap escape.
Strips of elastic bands are ideal for
holding the graft toget her while the
union call uses. Appl)' even pressure as
you wrap the band around the stein and
take care not to m isalign 1hc cambiums.
Normally, on ly sufficie nt pressu re is
applied 10 ho ld the graft in place, but
if 1he graft is poor, pull in the s tock 10
make improved co ntac1 with the scion.
Apply a commercial grafting wax
or wound sealan t to the union and to
the top o f the scion if it has been cut.
You can also tie in the graft with
plastic gra fting tape, making the use
of wax u nnecessary.
OTHER TYPES OF GRAFT
Where stocks and scions have similar
girths, whip g rafting a nd s pliced side-
veneer grafting are good alternative
methods (see above). The principles of
grafting are the sam e, b ut the carpentr)'
involved in filling together s tock and
scion may differ (see />p.118-45 for
individual plant req11 ireme111s and p.2 7).
AFTERCARE OF GRAFTED PLANTS
This is crucial to success. The graft is
sensitive to drying out, but watering
the pot could flood the union and cause
rot, so house the graft in a closed case
or tent it under plastic to provide a
warm , humid environment. Maintain
a temperat ure of 64-68°F ( 18-20°C),
which in winter usual!)' m eans p lacing
the grafts on a heated bench (see p.41).
Water the sand or capillar)' malling well
before placi ng the grafts on the bench .
In summ er, shading is essen tial lo
preven t scorch.
Scion from
semi-ripe sr1001 _ _ __.,,
SPLICED SIDE·
VENEER GRAFT
T,·ini any leaves from
'
• thelower stems of a
4- 5iu (10-lJcm) scion
and II morsrocf1 (licre of
rlwdodend,·011). Mal1e a 11,1- - S1ock is 11ot
tlowuwanf nick Jin CUI bacl:
(2.5cm) from 11,e base
of rhc srocf1 and a fin M I--Scion sits on
(2.5c m) sloping cur ro "shoulcler"' of
cut in Stoclt
meer it. Remove the
wood. f..,fal~c <~ marching
cur on rite scion (see
insc1) and fir rogcrlicr.
To prevent fungal disease, air the plastic
ten t or propagating case rirs t th ing every
day for 5-10 minutes, drying off any
surface moisture that has condensed
on the rootstock. Take care: 100 much
ventilation too earl)' on will dry ou t
the union.
HOT-PIPE CALLUSING OF GRAFTS
This process, used commercially on a large
scale. applies ho, air 10 1he grafi while the
rootstock and scion are kept fros1-kee and
cool and 1hereforc less liable 10 dry ou1. This
enables 1he callus 10 form quickly, giving
nexibility to the co1nmercial grower and
making it easier for Lhe gardener to achieve
success with difficult subjects. such as
dogwoods (Cornus) and hazels (Corylus).
r\11 types of graf1 respond well. whe1her on
bare-rooted or container-grown stocks.
A small-scale hot pipe may be made in
a cold greenhouse or a shed. You need a
length or 3in (8cm) plas1ic drainpipe, soil-
wanning cable that is twice the length o r the
Cur I in (2.5cm) wide slors i11 rhe ,,;,,,, Jin
1 (2.5cm) a1,ar1 for bare-roo1. or 3i11 (Sc,11)
aparr for por-grown, roorsrochs. Place t"ch
pla111 wirh its grafted area inside a slo1.
GRAFTING
Callusing is the first sign of a su ccessful
graft union and usually begins after 3-4
weeks. Soft white tissue appears arou nd
the edge or the union on and around
th e churc h window, and also along the
length of the cut in the s tock. At this
s tage, the graft s hould be hardened
off in pre parati on for moving onto the
o pen bench. Open the case a fraction
of an inch overnight, and inc rease the
exposure b)' degrees over a period of
u p to four weeks. During this time, the
callus will turn fron1 wh ite to yellow
and b rown , ha rdening as it changes.
Never move the grafts on a warm,
brigh t day. \.Vhen they are taken out,
s hading may be needed and the surfaces
around the graft should be damped
down for the first [ew da)'s. Begin
watering very sparingly. Pot bare-root
grafts only when they are clearly
successful , each in a container a liule
larger than the root ball. Growth is
often prodigious, especiall)' in pro1ected
conditions; a grafted plant is usually
large enough 10 p lan t out the following
autumn or s pring.
pipe with a thermostat and control box,
and an electricity supply. Cul l in (2.5cm)
wide sec1ions 10 half the depth of 1he
drainpipe to create slots at 1he spacings
shown below. Double up the cable inside
the pipe and tape ii lo 1he bo110111. Raise
1he pipe up slightly on wooden blocks.
Melt some grafting wax until it is just
warm 10 the touch; dip each graf1 and all
of the scion in the wax to seal it and prevent
desiccation. Place the grafted plants in the
ho1 pipe. as shown below. Sci 1he 1hermosta1
to maintain a temperature of 68-77°F
(20-25°C) within I he pipe. Successful grafts
should callus within 1hree weeks.
." .,. ------
... <:
· - ""'-
• -
'. .
Cover ban; roots wid1 moist soil to
2 1>reve111 drying 0111. Lay some capilla,y
marring over the slots and secure wirh
insul<Hing WtJc.
109
SHRUBS AND CLIMBING PLANTS

HEATHS AND HEATHERS

T here are three principal genera of
these shrubby evergreens: Calhma, a
heather ,vilh on ly one species but many
cultivars, Oowering from midsu,nmer to
late autumn; Daboecia, a heather with
two summer-Oowering species,.of which
only D. c<mLabrica is grown in gardens;
and Erica, a heath that includes many
winter- and summer-Oowering species
and cultivars. Heaths and heathers range
from groundcover plants to tree heaths
up to 20ft (7111) tall. The majority need
moist, acidic soil and full sun or an
exposed site. Propagation of cu ltivars
is vegetative, by layering or cuttings,
because the seeds do not come true.
TAKING CUTTINGS
Of all the heathers, cuttings from
Daboecia and Erica root most readily
and are least prone to disease. Take
semi-ripe cuuings (see below) fro1n
healthy, vigorous, nonOowering shoots.
SEMI-RIPE CUTTINGS
So,ne heaths are rarely out of Oower,
so it may be necessary to take cuttings
of Oowering shooLS (see below rig/11).
Cuttings of the Australasian native heath
(Epacris) are taken in earl)' summer, as
well as after a Oowering nush.
Commerical nurseries do not remove
leaves from cuuings, but it is a useful
precaution against rot. Do not bother
stripping off the tiny leaves of calluna
shoots. Insert the cuttings in a well-
drained and aerated medium. Rooting
hormone is not needed. Do not use
nitrogenous fertil izer in the 1nedium:
heaths and heathers are sensitive to the
salts that these preparations contain.
Species and cultivars root at differing
rates, so insert the cuttings individually
in cells, or several of one species or
cultivar to a Sin ( 13cm) pot. For best
results, root the cuttings in an enclosed
space at 59-70°F ( l 5-21°C). Heaths
and heathers are prone to rot, so spra)'
s,,m-se. weall
leaf growth
or water in a general fungicide and
remember to ventilate the cuttings daily.
Poi up rooted cuttings singly before
harden ing them in spring (see facing
p<1ge). Water the cuuings from below
onl)' when the medium has almost
dried out to avoid problems with algae,
liverworts, and mosses growing on the
surface of the medium.
Alternatively, root the cuuings in a
prepared bed in a sheltered place, such
as in a co ld frame; site the fra,ne in the
shade to avoid extreme variations of
temperature affecting the cuuings. After
4-6 months, grow them on in a nursery
bed wi1h free-draining soil, or pot them
singly. Leave in a sunn)' position until
autumn, when they may be plan1ed out.
Heaths and heathers are susceptible to
vine weevils: apply a nematode drench
in midsummer to the young plants and
again in early autumn if they have no1
)'el been planted out.
FLOWERING SHOOTS

Small
i,11cnuxlal
spaces
Toomany
flowers
I
Leaves of
even size Cut!ings Siem
macerial 4-- c11ui11gj
.%:
BAD GOOD PREPARED
BAO GOOD MATERIAL MATERIAL CUTTtNGS
MATERIAL MATERIAL
Cl,oose a shoot of Erica carnea that has only
From late summer lO autumn, select a strong, 1l1e ,ig1u, will,
The cutting compac:1,its
1healthy. 11011floweri11g sides/toot (here of 2
011
even growth, s1wuld mal:e a good plant.
a few flower buds concentrnted on one part
of rite stem, and talie 2in (5cm) currings, one
Calluna vulgaris 'Roberr Chapman'). Remove it The two curring, 011 rhe left are ,mlihcly to be at the base and onefmm the tip. Prepare the
with dean pnmers, cutting srraigJ11 across rhe successful. They arc weal, and spindly, and the cuttings (see Sleps 3 and 4 below).
stem about 1i11 (10cm) below the stem tip. presence of flower buds will inhibit rooting.

l l)',
Open \PCtlf tVf.'')'
if needed

Trim each srem 10 a length
3 of about I ½-2i11 ('l-5cm).
Holding 1/te base of rlie curring
firm wirh your finger, cut straighr
across tl1e stem at tlte appropriate
point wirh a clean, sl,al'p hnife.
Strip leaves from Erica
4 and Daboccia cuuings:
lightly 1,old each stem about
one 1hird from rl,e base and
quicl:ly pull it through finger and
tln,mb. Pinch our 11,e tips of all
cuuings (see inscl).
Fi// cells o,· pots wirl, a
5 mixrure of equal parts moist
leaf mold and peat, or ec1ual parts
fine barlt and peat. lnserr the
cuuiugs so that the lowest leaves
are jus1 resting on the swface. Do
not firm in the cuttings.
6
\\lc,ter in the cuttings with
a general-purpose fungicide,
using a watering can will, a fine
rose. Label the cuttings. then pl<lct
them in a closed case - a hec,ted
one speeds rooting. Allow to root
in <4 place out of direct sunlight.

110
 HEATHS AND HEATHERS

GROWING ON SEM I-RIPE CUTTINGS

l'uul1 out fan
busl1111C,,

Tl,c n111i11gs .<110111<1 root cifrcr 8-12 wet/1>.
1 To ltcrp 1l1e111 grow;ng "igmousf). begin
Jcccling rhc111 regularly once a h't't·h with a
,,s
low.,rnrogtn fcrtifi~er 'iud1 for wuwwt·s.
Pi11d1 our 1l1t growing rips rcguforly w
encouwgt Joi nuuwn of bush) new growth,
Afur 4- 6 monrhs, when the plcuus <fft wdl
2 de,•dopc,I. pot them ill(livichwlly into Jin
(8cm ) pOIS of soillcss po11i11g mix, using c:u1
acidic formula for lime.hcui11g hearhel'S. Grow
011 ouuloms. prorating from severe cold if
ntt·cltd to p,tw:nt young shoots from tlying badt.
3
From late summt~r ouwatd, plwu our rhe
l,earhs and hemhc,:> iu thcirf111al tJO)itio11s.
For tht· bt·st effect, pla,11 dttm in frrcgulm
groups, s11aci11g them 8-1 Oi11 (20-25c111) <1/Nll'I.
They sliould mpidly gro,\ into ont· ,mmher
re> /om1large clumps.

LAYERING LAYERING
In the wild, sandy soil driflS over heaths In spnng, select a
and heathers. which then root read ily /1«,lrhy shoot from
from the stems, so la)'ering these plants c,rou11cl 1l1c ec/gc of tire
is even easier than cuuings. Layered pla111. \\lorh a lirrle
plants are not alwa)'S as uniformly bushy leaf mold or pcc,r mlCI
as plants grown from cuuings, however. grit or coarse sand
Mix in a Huie sharp sand and peat inro rhe .soil below the
into the soi l in a shallow trench around shoot 10 promote
the parent p lan t 10 provide a good, drainage.
well-drained rooting medium . In earl)' 8U1)' die slwo, in
lO midau tumn or spring, bend down tire p1epared area of
health)', strong sideshoo1s and cove r soil ,md place a stone
with a liulc of the prepared soil. l'eg over it ro hccp it in
down the shoots with wire staples or pl,1cc. 'J he Jo/lowing
weigh them down with small stones. ,piing, lift the rooted
There is no need to cut o r wound the laye,: se,•er from Orr
stems. One )'Car later, cut off the rooted pt1rrnc, mul plcmt 0111 .
stems; grow on in a nursery bed or in
pols for six months before planting out.
If on ly one or two rooted layers a re
required, simpl)' p repare the soi l beneath DROl;"PI NG HEATH ERS
the chosen shoots (see right) . 111 spring, lif, "
Alternatively, to layer a large number
of shoolS, lift the plant in midspring, dig
1 mature plan,.
a l,ole deep enough
Dig

out the hole, and replant, leaving one- w two-1'mrls bun•

third of the shoots exposed. Th is type of 1h1~ plant. .. Drop" the
la)•cring is "dropping" (see right). pl<mt inlO rite hole
Fill in between the shoolS as shown. cmclflll itt wirh soiJ
Other options, which make it easier 10 around the roots.
weed around the plan t if the shoots are
few, is to arrange them into a row or, if
the shoots are not briulc , 10 press 1hem \Vol'h a mixwrc of t<{lutl pctns
around the edge of the hole 10 form a
circle. Firm the soil 10 encou rage the
2 grit a11d peat be1ween the
shoots uv to soil level. Firm in
shoots 10 root into it. Orighwl
,lrl)lh ge11rly and label.
Keep the plant well watered until
autumn. Clear away the so il and remove \\later the plcmt
the roo ted cuttings, cutting just below
the new roots on each stem. Discard the
,
,
._.. 7' "l>
3nuumm,
By
during ,try spells.
the bt1ried
, , '
old p lant. Pot the rooted layers and sections of lire stems
grow on as for cuuings (sec above). ·.' ---~"'>___ _ should l1avc formed
roots. Lift the whole
S OWING SEEDS plant cmd sever the
Raise species s u ch as Erica tcnninalis rooted shoots from the
and Calhma vulgaris from seeds. Sow in 1><fft111 plwu. Pot them
winter 10 earl)' spring as for rhododen- singly 10 grow 011 or
drons (see p.138). Epacris germinates ,
beuer if treated with smoke (see p.103).
, - plant chem 0111 in
a slid1c,ccl ,pot.

111
SHRUBS AND CLIMBING PLANTS
ROSES
ontrary lO common belief, all roses,
C whether species roses, old garden
roses, or modern cultivars, are easily
increased, even by gardeners with on ly
limiled space.
Roses are propagaled in basically
three ways. Cuuings are easiest for
the gardener, although they are not
recom,nended for producing high-
quality plants from most modern hybrid
tea or noribunda roses. Grafting or
T-budding roses, methods favored by
conunercial growers, requ ire some
planning and rootstocks that have
been grown on in advance, but they
usually produce more vigorous plants.
Raising roses from seeds can be
challenging and is usually most reliable
with species roses. However, the rose is
a classic candidate for hybridization,
and some amateur rose growers have
produced worthwhile cultivars.
TAKING CUTTINGS
Hardwood cuuings are most successful
from miniature, groundcover, and
species roses, as well as so,ne older
Rosa wichurmw (syn. R. wichuraiana)
ramblers; lhe)' are taken in much the
same way as for other shrubs (see p.100).
Although a conlrolled envi ronment
and a little care are required, increasing
roses from softwood cuuings has proved
very effective for some of the more
di fficult species and cu llivars such as
R. banl,siae and R. 'Mennaid', as well as
for mass-production of pot roses.
H ARDWOOD CUTTINGS OF ROSES
First prepare a slit trench in semi-shade,
about Sin (20c,n) deep, and sprink le
some sharp sand along the bouom to
TAKING SOFTWOOD CUTTINGS OF ROS ES
In e,irly to midsunune,; choose healthy
] shoots (here of Rosa banksiae) of tlie cu,.,.c,u
seasons growth. Removt each by cuui11gj11sr
above <I 11ocle wirh pnmers. Jnunediarcly place
the cuttings i11 a plastic bag to heep rhem fresh.
112
HARDWOOD CUTTINGS
SELECTING SUITABLE STEMS In l11te siunmer
or cmt1mm, takt well•ripened, heahhy, woody
shoots from tlie curn.mt seaso11S growth,
approximarcly 12-24 i11 (30-60cm) Jong.
improve the drainage. Gather suitable
shoots (see above), cuuing each at an
angle just above an outward-facing bud.
Place the shoots in damp newspaper or
moss to prevent them from drying out
before 1hey can be prepared. Divide the
stems into 9in (23cm) lengths, removing
all but the top two leaves and cutting
through a bud al the base of each
cuuing. There is no need to leave a heel.
Dip the base of the cuttings first in
water, then in hormone rooting powder,
and place in the trench 4-6in
(10-15cm) apart. Fill in the trench and
hill it up so that the leaves are at soil
level. Firm and waler in well . In dry
condi lions, protect lhe cuttings wi th a
black plastic mulch. Rooted cuuings
may be plan ted out in a year (see above) .
_ Disctml growing Hp
"''--- Angled cut
ctbo\'C 11()(1,:
Cut each shoot into secrious, curring above
2 each 11ode along il,e stem, so rhar ead,
imernodal cutting ,-ewins one leaf at the top.
Discard rlie growing tip: ir is 100 soft to root.
Trim die leajlers 10 reduce moisture loss.
ROOTED CUTTING By
the following spring, 1hc
C1111i11gs should start to
root and produce new shoocs.
/11 the following a11111m11, lift
each rooted curring (le[t) wir/1
a lumdJori,, ral1i11g care nor to
damage the root.s. Plant the new
rose in irs pe,,nane,u position.
.,I- - - 011e•)'(lll'•Old
cuuing
Quicker results may be obtained by
rooling 3in (8cm) cuttings in rooting
medium in 3in (8cm) pots under cover,
supplying bottom heat of approximately
21 •c (70°F) in a closed case or on a
propagating blanket (see p.41). The
rooted cuttings should be ready for
planting out b)' the following spring.
This works panicularly well for most
groundcover and miniature roses.
SOFTWOOD CUTTINGS OF ROSES
Cuttings should be taken from plants
that have been encouraged LO produce
young wood by pruning the1n hard in
early spring, prefe rably in a prolected
environmenl such as a greenhouse. The
first new shoots from garden plants may
also be used as cuuings, if they have not
I\+,
1
~ 1torrnone
Fungicide
Di1> src,n in
,.ootingpowdcr
1
..•
lmmcrse each c1111i11g i11 f1111gicidnl sol11tion,
3 then dip its ba.se in J1on11onc rooting powder.
Insert 1lie n111i11gs in Jin (2.5cm) dee/J /,oles
in large plugs of roclnw,ol, or sp11ce them 2111
(5cm) a/Jart i11 seed soil mix in deep seed trays.

been exposed LO herbicid es. Th is simp le
techn ique does not wo rk for hybrid teas
and grand ifloras, however.
Early LO midspring is the best ti me LO
take softwood s te m-tip c u ttings, w hen
new s hoots a re o nly 11/,-.2 in (4-Scm)
long and need no trim m ing. lntern odal
stem cutti ngs front longer soft shoots
may be ta ken in summe r (see facing
page). Treat all cuttings with syste,nic
fungic ide to prevent rot and hormon e
rooting compou nd to aid rooting. When
inserting the cutti ngs into the nl'edium
or rockwool, ensu re they d o no t touch.
Mai ntain high h u midity a round th e
cuttings by te nti ng them in a plasti c
bag or placing them in a closed case o r
mist un it (see p.44). Provide botto1n heat
of about 81°F (27°C) at fi rs t, then a fter
four weeks o r so, redu ce it to 64-70°F
(18-21 °C). Hard en off the roo ted
cu ttings by grad ually reducing the 1i1ne
they are covered. Pot them singly in to
Jin (8cm ) pots in a soilless m ix .
A reasona bly sized plant ca n be
produced in this way in two mo nths or
so. Cut back the young plants by a bout
50 percen t to ensure bushy g rowth . The
pru ni ngs provid e very good ma te ria l for
further propagatio n - this is a common
practice in co,nmercial n u rseri es.
DIVIDING ROSE SUCKERS
Some roses, p anicularly rugosas and the
Scotch rose ( R. pimpi11ellifolia) c ultivars,
are often g rown fro m h ardwood cutt ings
on the ir own roots, rather than gra fted
onto different roo1s1ocks. Suckers, freely
produced by these roses, are therefo re
true to type a nd can be re moved a nd
planted o u t. This is particularly useful
if many p la n ts a re desi red , perhaps for
a hedge. Lift suckers when n ot in active
growth wi th a reasonable leng th of root
(see below), a nd re plan t immediately.
DIVIDING A ROSE SUCKER
In ltite autumn or early SJJring, select " well-
developetl sucher and, using pnmers, sever it
from die rootstoclt, retaining c,s many roots as
possible. Prepare" hole wide and deep enough
for the roots. Plant imu,ediardy, wa1c,; and firm.
ROSES
GRAFTING ROS ES
GRAFTING
Sta ndard g rafting and Select a semi•tif>e
T-bu dd ing (see pp.1 14-15)
involve uniting material
1 sl,om of the currenr
seasons growd1. Tctlu!
from two d ifferent roses to ,1 stem t utting with
combin e the virtues of both . 0111· lenf srall,. Mal,c
A scion or bud fro,n the topgrowth <tll<mglcd Cut ilb<wc
of the rose to be p ropagated is u nited rite top uodt· and cut
with a roots tock selected for its vigor rhe bottom I in
and h ardin ess. Grafting roses requires a (2.5cm) of rite SICIII
warm, h umid environment under cove r inro a wcdgl' slwpe.
b u t allows large q ua nti ti es of n ew plants
to be produced in the same growing ,-_Cut CX/JO.St'S
cwnlmun
season . Budding is don e in the op en
gard en, bu t it takes mu ch longer.
GRAFTING ROSES
G rafti ng is most appropria te for
1ni niaturc roses a nd some gro undcover
_ lt1)t1 r ,non
kinds; it is used extensively to prod uce
soam1bium
p lan ts for th e cut-Oower ind ustry. faces hn"tml
Conventional seed li ng rootstocks,
su ch as R. laxa or R. cl1 i11e11sis ' Major',
are used for com,nercial grafLing an d r.-H-- Vt, I ital t ut
m ay be obta inable b)' the garden er from h1 IOOlSIOcl<
sp ecialized nu rseries. T hey a re grad ed
accordi ng to the diame ter o f the stem,
or "n eck": rough ly '!,,,....½in or '11-½in
(5-8mm or 8-12,nm). Cur srraighr across rhe rop of tl,e "neck" of
Th e roots tocks a re b rought into the
green house early in the year, and must
2 the roouwcl:, using 11ru11crs. From rhe wp,
mt1hc <1 vettical cut in the bark, Iin (2.5cm) in
be heeled in into a 7i n (18cm) deep peat lengrh, w,d genrly open up doe barl, }fops. Slide
bed, supplied with botto1n heat of 64°F the scion into 1he cw <111<1 bind securely.
( 18°C) to encourage g rowth .
The type of g raft u sed is similar to branches. Slit the bark, insert a prepared
that u sed to rind g rafl fru it trees (see scion u nder the flaps (see above), and
p.63). Ta ke sem i-ripe s hoots as they secure wi th thin thread or grafting tape.
develop in spring for use as scions. Cut Pot each grafted rootstock in seed
the s h oots into s h on le ng ths, each with soil m ix an d place in a closed case or
a bud and one leaf (see above). Tri,n the mist u nit a t a tempe ra ture of 59-75°F
base o f each s tem in to a wedge by (IS-24°C). Leave for about four weeks
removing a sliver from on e side o f the u ntil the graft callu ses a nd th e scion
stem. Lift th e rootstocks, then remove begins to grow. Pot on into Sin (13cm)
the topgrowth with a straig ht c ut a t the pot. 1-larden off over six weeks, the n
top of each "neck " j us t below th e p lan t in fin al positions in late spring.
How TO PROPAGATE EACH TYPE OF ROSE
HYBRID TE,\ (LARGE-FLOWERED RUSH) ROSES SrEClt;S ROSE.~ Hardwood cuttings. division,
Grafting, T-budding, hybridizing. T-buclding, seeds.
FLORIBUNDA(CLUSTER-J'LOWCRCD BUSM) ROSl;S
Grafting, T-budding, hybridizing.
MI NIATURE ROSES Hardwood and softwood
cuttings, grafting for container-grown
plants, T-budding, hybridizing.
GROUNDCOVER ROSES Hardwood cuuings.
grafting, T-budding, hybridizing.
CI..IM61NG AND RAMBLER ROSES Hardwood
cuttings for some of the older Rosa
widwrana ramblers, softwood cuuings for
difficult subjects such as Rosll ba11ksiae
cultivars and Rosa 'Mermaid', T-budding,
hybridizing.
MODERN SHRUB ROSES liarclwood cuuings.
T-budding, hybridizing.
OLD GARDEN ROSES Hardwood cuttings,
division, T-budding. HIPS OF ROSA ' FRU D AG MAR H ASTRUP'
113
SHRU6S AND CL IMBING PLANTS

T -BUDDING ROSES
Until the advent of hybrid tea (large-
llowered bush) roses, all roses were
grown from cuu ings. As breeding
progressed, many cuhivars lost the
ability 10 develop a satisfactory root
system. l3udding onto a more vigorous
rootstock had long been used for other
plants, and by the mid-nineteen th
century it was adopted as the principal
method of propagation for all types of
rose in commercial nurseries. Although
slow and a Huie more chal lenging for
the gardener, il is still the best way of
producing high-quality plants from
garden cultivars.
Stocks for budding roses may be
available during winter from specialized
nurseries. They are graded according lo
the "neck" size, rough ly ¾~½in or ¼- ¼in
(5-Smm or 8-12mm), and various
stocks are available in different regions
(see box, right), but most are compatible
with any cultivar. If the soil is frozen or
too wet, the stocks shou ld be heeled in
until they can be planted in early spring.
The planting sile should be weed-free
and prepared well beforehand by digging
in compost or well-ro11ed manure.
Commercial growers plant stocks Sin
(20cm) apart in rows 3ft (90cm) apart.
Small quantities may be planted singly
in holes made with a sti ck or in a slil
trench (see below). If they arc not alread)'
trimmed, cut back the topgrowth to 9in
(23cm) and the roots 10 6 in (15cm). The
neck should be covered with soi l up LO,
bu1 1101 above, 1he branches 10 keep the
bark moist and supple at the poin1 where
the bud is lo be inserted. Finn the soil
well. \>Va1er on ly in very dry cond itions ,
and control weeds to prevent competi1ion.
Budwood for use in budding is 1aken
SEED-RAISED ROOTSTOCK$
Ros,, ux., Popular stock: universallr
produces high-quality plants, almost free
from suckers. Tends 10 go dry (reduced sap
now) in midsummer, thus early budding is
cssemial. Rus1 disease was a problem but is
now easily controlled with suitable rose
fungicide. Principal stock available to
gardeners in UK.
R. Almost a!> popular as
CANl/\'A 'INLRM1f
R. lax«. particularly in Mediterranean areas.
R. 'DR. Hl11..,. Popular stock in southern
California, Arizona, and southeastern
Australia~ wlcrates dry. alkaline soi ls.
R. x FORn.wE."NA Deep-rooted rose, good for
sandr soils in warm climates, such as
Western Australia.
from 1he roses 10 be propagated at the
beginning of the summer, after the stems
have ripened, or hardened, and have
begun to nower. A good test of whether
the wood is ready is lo break off some
thorns: with the majority of cultivars
1hey should come away clean ly.
Gather the buclsticks (see below right)
and store in da,np moss or newspaper in
a coo l place un1il needed , labeling them
carefully. Never stand them in water;
R OOTSTOCK$ GROWN FROM CUTTINGS
R. ,\fl'LTlflOR.-\ Roots very easily; in warm
climates can he T-huddcd eight wc,eks after
rooting. Common in eastern Australia and
New Zcal:'md. Good for weeping forms.
R. C.1\'\INA cultlvars.
R. 'DR. Ht,ty'
I( (.111'\'l.:.N)I!> 'M ~\ll>R' u~cd widely in hot
climalcs: tolcralcs dry, alkaline soils.
R OOTSTOCK$ FOR STANDARD ROSES
R. <.,,r..11NA (\Viki dog rose) Traditional
sian<lard stock.
R. \ll 11 JJH()RJ\. R l'()J \fl RU\·\, K Rl'GOSA
and cuhivars.
LoC(d atlvirr on 1Ju~ mosr suiwble swclts nwv
l>e olnaincdfrom cruy lmgc msc 1111r~ny.

T-BU DDING: PLANT ING T HE ROOTSTOCK T- BUDDI NG: PREPARI NG THE BUDSTIC K

/11 «irly spring, dig a V-sliaped
1 1re11ch witli (I spade, deep enough
for rlic roors of 11,e rootstoc/1 (here
Rosa laxa) to be accommodmed.
Place rite stock in the trench.
Fill in rite trench mul firm in
2 the soil genrly, rhen /till up
around the m·clt of l11r swcl: as fa,.
as 1hr base of rhe l>1·w1cl,cs. l.abcl
and water in well.
111 early s1m1111e,: cul off k11gd1) du· soft wpgrowrl, and
1 of vigomus. riJJcning, fluwering 2
RcmO\'C
fem cs from fCICh b11dstid1. Cut
sl,aots, ,dx>ut I 2in (30cm) long. t·nch kaf SWIil nbout ¼i11 (5nun)
Mtrhe an angled cut al rhe base of J, om tlrt Stem to lem•t: c, hmutle.
each shoor jusr e1bo\1f e1 bucl. Label cmd l:ecp moist.

T-B UD DING : PREPARI NG THE ROOTSTOC K

In midsummer; uncover the
] "11ecl1 • of the roorsrocll by ge111ly
easing 1l1e soil nway wid1 ,1 hcmd
fork This should be clone jusr before
preparing lite bud. so lliat 1hc 11ecl1
of rhe sroch does 1101 dry out.
Clean the bar/1 of 1he s1e111
2 gently using a soft, dry clo1h.
This will remove any soil or gfit,
wl1ich could blu111 1he blade of tire
budding lmifc.
1\tfr,ke a ¼in (5mm) hori:wmnl
3 cul into 1l1e bc1rk about Jin
(2.5cm) below tire wpgmwrlt.
Tl1en mahe c1 veniccrl cur 1qnwud
lO join rl1e 110,izonwl cut .)0 that
il11:y fo11n a T- slwpecl incision.
Using the reverse bltrde of rlre
4 knife, gently /JI)' open rhc flaps
of ba.-J, ,,.cmecl by tire two cuts.
l 'he thin. green caml,i1m1 will be
revealed m1derneath. TIie stocl: is
now remly w r'eccivc rhe bud.

114
 ROSES

T-BUDDING: PREPARING THE BUD

\\ ,'<HI

Buel nt(llt'ric1f

B11,h11cl:

Hold a budsticl, so that 1hr
1 buds 1>oi111 U/lwa,11. S11a11 off ti"·
1horns Jmm 1hc stick. muhini stm:
rhm 110 snngs rema111.
Insert the knifr nbout ¼in
2 (5111111) awav from a leaf stalk.
\Vith n ~U'aiglu. scooping aclio11, cur
out the swll, and tlu· bud, together
wirh a I in (2.5cm) long "Wil ...
Hold the bud by its tail and 1wcl
3 away the wood from the gran
bark Discard tlie wood. "frim off
the wil (sec inset) to fea\'c a scion
that is alx111t ¼in (1cm) long.
B LIOSTICK MATFRI AL
Ec1ch swgf iu th<' 1nq,armion
of rlu: bud en scion im•,,h,n
discwrling dif(n·,·nt />llrl> of
llir budsticl1 (sec ahovc ).

I-BU DDING: UN ITING THE GRAFT

Do,monr bud
fticts uph·ard

Lwf swlk

_ Fl"f1(; of bcrrk
<off, sdon

Hold ,he scion by 1Jie leaf s1tdll and slit>
1 1hr tape,e,1 end u11dc, the bar·I, flaps in 1/,r
roo1stock (see above left ). Sit 1/ie bud nemfy
under rhc flaps; if ncecktl, rrim ll,r scion across
the wp so i1 fi1s in 1he T-cut (sec above r ight).
To ensurr close contact between the sdon
2 one/ swcl1, scnuc a rubber grafting /lll1Cl1
(sec inset) ciromul the gnifr. pinning iron rlie
srde opposite the bud. As Ilic .stock heed~ cuul
a,lluscs O\ c,; tlu· rnbbcr ,,cruh wiU mt off.
T11E FOLLO\\'ING SPRING In ('llt'fy spnng, cut
off du· 1011 of rhc srocll with pnwc-rs, just ab(,\,.
the do1mc1111 J,uc/. fOJ a suongr,, m11hisren1111rcl
11lcuu, cur had, 1hr shoo, rmer~i11gJ10111 rhe bucl
(sec inset) w Jin (8011) or mon· in few· s111 in~.

I-BUDDING ONTO A
STANDARD ROOTSTOCK
U SING M ULTIPLE
BUDS
Insert two or d,rec
buds, Jin (8cm)
apari, around the
srocl, s1e111, ar a
lieight of3½-4f1
(I .1-l .2m) from the
ground. Secure eacl,
with c, mbber pcud1 .
C UTTING BACK
I N SPRING
111 spring, "" back
1hc s1ock just abol'C
the new shoots thal
are developingfrom
the grafted buds.
1hey will rol al the base. Buds1icks ma)'
be kepi until ,nidsummer, which is 1he
1nos1 su itable 1ime for budding. In warm
climates, buds taken in late summer
should shoo1 in 1he following spring.
Newcomers 10 budding should get
in plenty of practice al culling, using
young willow Slicks, before auempling
10 bud I he roses. The ac1ual process
should be carried ou1 quickly 10 prevent
1he bud or neck from drying oul.
When ready for budding, remove 1he
soil from around 1he s1ock s1em. Prepare
the neck to receive the bud by making
a T-shaped cul in 1he bark (see faci ng
page). Cut ou1 a bud on a shield-shaped
sliver of bark from a buds1ick and then
remove 1he wood (see top); 1he prepared
bud is known as 1he scion. lnsen the
scion into the T-cut and secure with a
budding pa1ch (see above) .
The graft should heal in 3--4 weeks.
In cold cl imates, the rooLSLock should be
hilled up for the winter 10 pro1ec1 it, but
this is 1101 necessary in milder climates.
If iL has been hilled up, uncover the
budded stock in early spring. Cut back
the stock 10 just above the dormant bud,
using very sharp pruners. As the season
progresses, the bud should begin to
grow. It is a good idea 10 prune back 1he
new shoo t (see abo,,e) 10 encourage a
bushy plan1. If a vigorous climber has
been budded, it will need staking as it
develo ps. By early au1umn, the rose will
mature su fficiently 10 transplant to its
permanent position.
T -BUDDING STANDARD ROSES
The method of budding is 1he same as
for bush roses, but usually two or three
buds are inserted around the stem to
obtain a balan ced head (see left). The
height of the buds above soil level
determines the type of standard: 2ft
(60cm) produces a half standard; 3ft
(90cm) gives a full standard; 4ft (1.2m)
yields a shrub or weeping standard.
In theory, all roses can be grown as
standard planLS, but many ,viii look ugly
simply because of thei r upright habil.
The best resulLS can be obtained from
cultivars of miniature and floribunda
roses, groundcover roses, so1n e lax-
growing shrub roses, and 1he older
wicl111ra11a ramblers that will grow into
weeping standards. Standard stems
require staking to avoid wind damage.

115
SHRUBS AND CLIMBING PLANTS

R OSES FROM SEEDS GROWING SPECI ES ROSES FROM SEEDS

Al l species or wild roses can be grown
from seeds 10 obtain seedlings identical
10 their parents. The greatest problen1 - - Rosi'! seeds
is germinating the seeds, which can in l'ipt· liip
take as long as two seasons. In order
10 overcome their dormanC)', the seeds
need 10 be stratified or chilled before
sowing (see p.103). Rosehips ripen in
mid- 10 late autumn; man)' cultivar hips
are green when ripe, nol red like those
of species. Seeds may be stratified before In c,utwn11. cul open" ripe hip when from Put tire seeds into a clear 11las1ic l}{1g
or after extracting them from the hips. 1 the patelll pJtmt with a clean. sharp lmife. 2 conwining pe(ll, cmd lteep it cH <1bout 700F
Seeds ex1rac1ed from fresh ly collected Use the reverse of the lmife blade to fliclt 0111 (21 °C) for 2-3 1110,uhs. Tl1e11 place the bc,g i11
hips (see right) shou ld be placed either rhe individual seccls. a refrigerator for .3-4 wed:s.
in a plastic bag or in a seed tray in moisl
peal, vermiculite, or sand. Label and tlQld Jr"gilc ~n·,llings
keep the seeds al about 70°F (21°C) by 1'1eir leavfS
unti l late winier, then ch ill the seeds b)'
placing the bag or tray in the refrigerator
al just above freezing (35°F/2°C) for
3-4 weeks.
The seeds can then be sown in cells
(see rig/11) and left in a cool, sheltered
place such as a cold frame. They
ma)' take a year 10 germinate. Pol the
seedlings when the)' have their first Fill a cell tray witl1 a mix of one part sw1d to \Vl1eu the seedlings ,wvc their first ,x1irs of
true leaves, then grow on unti l they are
established. Harden off the seedlings (see
3 one pari pe,11 substilutc (or 11c«1). Sow the 4 true leaves, trcmsplant them singly ituo 2in
seeds singly cmd cover w their own depth with (5cm) 11ots filled wit/1 a soil-l>llscd polling mix.
p.45), and pol on as necessar)' until they grit. 1-abel. Place in " cold frame. Put the /JOtS /x,clt into die co/cl frame.
are large enough 10 be planted out.
In cold climates, 1he hips may be seedling roses inlo a nursery bed in the desirable features. For the first-time
layered 2in (5cm) deep in a container in following autumn and plant them out in hybridizer, il is more practical 10 use
moist peal, vermiculite, or coarse sand the garden 2-3 years later. as parents modern cul1ivars lhal are
and left outdoors for 12- 15 months in fenile and are known 10 yield a good
a cool, shady place. This allows the H YBRIDIZING ROSES harves1 of hips. Select roses whose
seedcoa1s 10 break down natural!)'. In The production of new cultivars by charac1eris1ics you wish to perpetuate,
the earl)' spring of the second year, crossing two different rose.s and then such as disease resistance, habit, Oower
remove and clean the stratified seeds selecting the best of the seedlings is a fonn, scent, or color. In practice, two
(see above), then sow them in an outdoor time-consu1ning, but exci ting, exercise popular named cullivars, when crossed,
seedbed. Prepare the seedbed with 4in for commercial growers; it is also will rarely produce anything of
(10cm) of a soil-based seed mix. enjoyed b)' many home gardeners. commercial sign ificance.
Sow the seeds 1-2in (2.5-5cm) apart Expert breeders consider the parents' Many species crossed with a cuhivar
and cover them with 'hin (1cm) of seed chromosomal makeup and e1nploy a will produce steri le progeny. If a repeal-
soil mix or fine soil and ¼i n (1cm) of s1ra1egy of using genes in 1he parents, Oowering, or remontanl, rose is crossed
fine gravel. Germination can take as not necessarily commercial cultivars, wi th a nonremonianl rose, il will
long as two 1non1hs. Transplant the which have been selected for their probably yield nonremon1ant seedl ings.

HYBRIDIZING: PREPARING THE POLLE N PARENT

0nce the flower
2is fully open and STORI NG ROSE POLLEN
the cmthcrs lw"c spJit
to reveal the pollen ,
(usually after 24
hours). ge,uly pull off
all the flower pewls. '
The muhers should
be left intac1. •
.. • '(
.....
,
•

• ••
To collect /JOlle11 The exposecl anthers
1Jo,· immedi<He use, 3release
are now ready w
tahe a 11w1ly open tlteir pollen.
flower, cuuingjust Bn,sh ci deem C(Und·hair Anthel'S may be gatliered up to one month
...-, above a node, wul lteep brush over the anthers before hybridizing and stored in a clean
it indoors in wmer. to collect the /JOlle11.
I dish. \Vlie11 ripe, the pollen looks fluffy.

116

HYBRIDIZING: PREPARING THE SEED PARENT
Choose u healthy flower that
1 is 1101 fully opr11 1111d 1101 yet
polliiwrell on the seed ,,went
2 twisl. worJling inward, to
rcvc<1I the imuwrurc anthers.
Label the polli11111cd flower with tlor 11am,·
5 of the pollen 1m,-rnt and cdlow lO, il'tll
Flowers on the same St'.ed JX1rent nwy be
f<11ilized with /JOlle11 from dijferc111 roses.
The best results in hybridizing roses are
achieved in a control led environment
free from insect pollinators. A well-
ventilated greenhouse is ideal, but an
elaborate heating system is not needed
except in very cold climates. A large
greenhouse also provides more even
temperatures. Hygiene is of greater
importance, and in earl)' autumn the
greenhouse must be thorough ly washed
down and disinfected (see p.38). Allow
sufficient time for the greenhouse to air
and dry out before bringing in plants.
Of the two roses selected for
hybridizing, one acts as a pollen (male)
parent, providing ripe pollen , and one
as the seed (female) parent, producing
hips and seeds. Many-petaled roses do
not produce much pollen, while some
roses may not form well-developed hips.
Weather also exerts an inOuence.
Pot the chosen parents in rich pouing
mix in large containers and leave
outdoors in early autumn. Bring into the
greenhouse in 1nidwinter at a minimum
or 40°F (4.5°C), where they can develop.
Prune bush roses lightly after a month
inside. On sunny days provide good
ventilation and water lightly, but do not
feed them . By midspring, young shoots
should be developing.
Pull off 11,e pewls will, 11 quick Can,fully pluck out doe 1md1er,
3 with tweezers. Do nor damage
doe stigmas. Leave for 24-48 loours.
P OLLINATING THE SEED PARENT
Prepare the pollen parent first (see facing
page) to gather the pollen: ripe pol len
looks Ooury or Ouffy in texture. Pollen
can be gathered up to a month before
the seed parent is read)' if necessary, but
it must be kept very dry.
The nower of the seed parent must
be well developed but not full)' o pen;
the anthers wil l still be immature and
will not yet have pollinated the Oower.
Remove the petals and anthers of the
seed parent (see above), n1aking sure
that no fragments are left , because these
may allow rot fungi to attack the plant.
Within 24-48 hours, the stigmas will
be ripe and sticky and ready to receive
pollen from the male Oower. Once it is
pollinated, label the seed parent with the
names of both parents. If using pollen
fro m dirTerent parents for dirTerent
Oowers, clean the brush thorough ly
between applications.
lf successful , the hip should develop
and ripen by midautumn. Remove any
new buds or shoots as they appear,
keep watering to a minimum, and do
not feed the rose 10 keep new growth
to a minimum . Do, however, provide
ample venti lation . l f the poll ination was
unsuccessful, the hip will rot or shrivel.
ROSES
Trm,sfeo the ripe pollen onto
4 the now sticky stigmas using a
camel·hair brush or <1 dc,111 f,nge,:
H YBRIDI ZED
SEEDLINGS
Rose seedli11gs grown
from hyb, idized seeds
should be raised to
flowering size in a
11ursery bed i11 a cool
greenhouse or frost·
f ree place.
A selection can
rhen be made based
011 foliage and flower
color. This can vary
enormously cunong
seedlings from the
same p<u1·11ts (see
left). Many will be
pinlt or vermilion.
CARE OF HYBRIDIZED SEED LINGS
In autumn, extract and stratify seeds in
sand from successful hips, as for species
roses (see facing page). Sow the seeds in
a prepared seedbed under cover, such a~
in a cool greenhouse. vVater as required,
but avoid excessive watering. Rose
seedlings can sometimes be subject to
dieback or rot, usually as a result of
overwatering or extreme temperatures.
Strict hygiene, using a complete rose
fungicide, is the only answer.
Expect to see germination within
two mon ths and growth of 9-\Sin
(23-45cm) in the first year, when most
of the new plants will bear small blooms.
Since the parentage is kno,vn, the color
and form of the blooms will provide clues
to the eventual plant. A lack of blooms
indicates that the seedlings are only
summ er-nowering: select more reliable
repeat-bloom ing parents next time.
In midsummer, choose the best th ree
or four seedlings and T-bud them onto
root.stocks outdoors (see p .11'1). ln the
following year, the full results of the
hybridization will become evident. The
hybridizer should build up a stock of
the most promising cultivars throughout
the following seasons, disposing of the
less choice hybrids along the way.
117
A-Z OF SHRUBS AND CLIMB ING PLANTS
A-Z O F SHRU BS AN D CLIMBIN G PLANTS
ABELIA
S OFTWOOD CUTTINGS in ~prmg ~
GREENWOOD cvmNGS from l:1lc spnng !
S EMI-RIPE CUTTINGS from earl)' IO late summer
Cuttings of these deciduous and
evergreen shrubs root very readily in
a closed case or mist bench. Softwood
cu11ings (see p.100) from the first flush
of growth root in 2-4 weeks. In colder
regions, do not pot greenwood cuttings
(see p.JOJ) taken after midsummer;
prune cuttings for a bushy habit, but
allow new growth time to ripen - if not
well established, they overwinter badl)'·
Keep se1ni-ripe cuttings (see p.95) taken
in late summer frost-free. Plants flower
in 1-2 )'ears.
ABUTILON FLO\VERINC MAPLE, I NDIAN MALLO\V, PARLOR ~1APLE
SOFTWOOD, GREENWOOO ANO SEM l•AlPE CUTTINGS
at ~my time~
HARDWOOD CUTTINGS in aullunn u (5°C). For Abulilon megapotamicum,
Seeos in c:-trl) spring:
Most or the evergreen and deciduous
nowering shrubs in this genus can be
increased from sort- or greenwood
cuttings (see pp.100-101) ai any time.
I[ using the cuuings for sum,ner
bedding, take them as nodal stem-Lip
cu11ings in late summer. Root as for
Abelia (see above), pol, and provide a
ACTINIDIA KIWI FRUIT, CHINESE GOOSEBERRY, SILVER VINE
GREENWOOD OR SEM I-RIPE CUTTINGS in early
~ttmmcr U
HARDWOOD CUTTINGS in late au1umn to nudwmlcr,
Seeos in spring or aurnmo 1
LAYERING in aununn ,
GRAFTING in la1e winter U1
Cu11ings are the easiest way 10 increase
most or these mainly deciduous climbers.
Greenwood is best for Actinidia deliciosa
(syn. A. chi11e11 sis) and A. lwlomikta;
semi-ripe or hardwood for A. a,guta;
hardwood [or A. deliciosa. Seed-raised
species grow rapidly. New plants nower
and fruit in 2-3 years.
C UTTINGS
For g reenwood cu11ings (see p.101 ),
use hormone rooting com pound and
reduce A. deliciosa leaves Lo 2in (Sein) .
Take shoots for semi-ripe and hardwood
cutlings (see p.95 and p.98) that are not
100 vigorous and prone to rot.
SEEDS
A male and [emale plan t are needed for
fruits (see right). Seeds germinate a t
once i[ sown fresh; spring sowings need
a three-month cold period (see p. I 03).
118
ALLA MANDA
C UTTINGS throughout
summer 1
u DIVISION in spn ng i CUTTINGS i,~ late ~pring
The evergreen shrubs
and scrambling
cli,nbers in this genus
root readil)' fro m
All"'""''"" g reenwood nodal stem
«ulwnirn cu Hi 11gs (see p.l O1).
Take 2-Jin (5-Scm) c u11ings and root
in hu1nidity with bouom heat of 59°F
(15°C). Cuttings shou ld root in 6-8
weeks and nower in 2-3 years.
Alte rnatively, for instant new plants,
divide clumps or mature specimens (see
p.101) , cu t back hard , and replant.
minimum winter temperature or 41°F
A. pic111111 'Th ompsoni i', and thei r related
c ultivars, use sem i-ripe stem cuttings
(see p.95). Hardwood cu11ings (see p.98)
or both A. x su111e11se and A. vir ifolium
root well ; keep them frost-free .
Sow seed s (see p/>.103-4) , gathered
[rom d r)' seedpods. Germ ina tion is rapid
under cover, but watch for wh iteny and
spider mite (see p.47). h usual!)' takes
two )'ears [or new plants 10 flower.
LAYERING
If on ly one o r two plants are needed,
simple layering (see p.106) works well
for all forms.
GRAFTING
Fo r named cultiva rs, use a whip-and-
long ue gra[t with seedling rootstocks
(see p.59). Grafaed plants tend 10 be
more vigo rous than cuttings.
EXTRACTING ACTINlOl,1 SEEDS FROM FRUITS
Slice <1 ripefruir (here of A. deliciosa) i111,alf.
Flicl, 0 111 rhe seeds wirh the rip of a lmife. Place
die seeds into afine-meshed sie,•e t111d wash off
1he pulp under running wmer before d,yi11g and
swri11g the seeds. Alrernativdy. sow seeds fresh
in a conrai11er without wasl1i11g them.
AMELANCHIER
} UNEBERRY, 5HADBUSH
u
OMSION ill carlr :-prmg'
Seeos in aulUmn or :,pring,
lAVERtNG :ll ::my·timc'
Many shrubb)' species in this gen us
produce suckers and are easily divided.
They also hybridize read ily, so seeds
may not come true. New plan ts flower
in 2-3 )'Cars.
C UTTINGS
------,-------
For best results, take so[1wood cuuings
(see p. I 00) once the new g rowth is no
more than 4in ( 10cm) long.
DIVISION
Divide clump-[orm ing species (see
p.101); lift and replant rooted suckers
(see p. l 01) o r Amela11chier ca11ade11sis.
SEEDS
Gather seeds fro m ripe, black fruits
and sow fresh in summe r or autumn
(see p.103). I[ stored , dry seeds have
hard coats: sow in spring (see p. I04)
to germinate the next spring; o r, before
sowing, warm and then cold stratify (see
p.103) the seed s to hasten germinatio n.
LAYERING
The technique or sim ple la)'ering (see
p.106) is effective for all species in this
genus, especially A. laman;l1ii.
AUCUBA JAPANESE LAUREL
Cvrr1NGS from l:ttc summer,
Seeos in .nuumn ~
LAYERING in spring and au1umn •
or these evergreen shrubs, only A11c11ba
japonicc, is commonly grown . Semi-
ripe cullings can be easily rooted in a
shelte red nursery bed , such as in a cold
frame (see p.95) If preferred , reduce the
[oliage for ease or handling; bouom heat
a t 70°F (21 °C) speeds rooting, in 6-8
weeks. Leave the cuuings until spring
before potting. New plants mature in
3-4 years.
Gather seeds from ripe berries (see
below); sow fresh in autumn (see p.103).
Germination may take 18 months.
Simple layering (see p.106) -
works well ; la)•ers can be
planted out in 12 months.
A UCUHA HERRIES
Rub the berries in a rough
cloth to remove du~ flesh
from rhc large seeds.
 ABELIA - BRUNFELSIA

B ERBERIS BARBERRY B OUGAINVILLEA

SEMl•RIPE CUTTINGS from micl,ummcr i, SoFTWOOO OR SEMt- RtPE
respond to hormone rooting compound.
MALLET CUTTINGS ill catlr -,urumcr or :,uwmn U
Protect semi-ripe and evergreen
CUTTINGS in !>Untmcr u
HARDWOOD CUTTINGS from lalc ,l\tl\tmn to HARDWOOD CUTTINGS in
midwuucr U hardwood cuuings (see p.99) with a cold winlcr U
DMSION ,II ,Ill) l1111(.' ' rrame or cloche in colder climates. LAYERING in lalc wime.r and
Seeos rn lau.· ,, imer or ca riv -,pring l Mound-forming species such as early spring !
GRAFTING Ill late winter I B. b1ixifolia can be divided (see p. I01)
These are deciduous and evergreen , in any season , but spring and autumn Layering is usually a
thorny shrubs. Cuuings can be tricky, division gives the best results. 8ougainvi/k<1 more effective method
so divide mound-forming s pecies or Seeds gathered from ripe [ruits need glabra '½ricga,a than cuuings in colder
gra[t less ready-rooting cultivars. New a shon period of chilling lo break their climates for propagating the deciduous
plants usually take at least two years dormancy. Layer the berries in sand (see and evergreen, scrambling climbers in
lO nower. . p.103), or sow outside or in pots (sec this genus. New plants generally nower
Cuuings fro,n semi-ripe wood ( see p.104) to germinate by summer. in 2-3 years.
p.95) root most quick!)', especially in Propagate B. x lologensis, B. lir,earifolia,
rockwool plugs (see p.35). Mallet and their cuhivars by spliced side grafts CUTTINGS
cuu ings (see below) are best for Berbcris (sec p.109) onto culling-raised , one-year- Softwood or sem i-ripe cuuings (see
x lologe11sis and its cuhivars. Both types old rootstocks of B. x ottawensis. pp.100 ar,d 95), 2-Jin (5-8cm) long,
taken with a heel or a piece of last
TAKI G MALLET CUT TINGS years growth (see p .96), will root in 4-6
Tcrhi· malkl Rcmo,•e the lower weeks if kept humid. 801101n heat of
1 cuttings f,.ou1 l<1st 2 leaves anti soft lip 59°F (15°C) speeds the process.
yem 1 ~fems, in a,rJy of each sitleshoo1. Slit Root hardwood cuui ngs (see p.98)
, sun11ner for deciduous the mallet le11gtl1wise in deep pots on a heated bench a t 70°F
,\lc,lrct - ~•/ specks or nuwmn for if its diameter is (21 °C) in colder climates. In warm ,
~

- t"\'rrg1ef11s. Choose short

siclnhoots, about .:fin (IOn11)
long. of the current seasons
growth. CUI j 11s1 abO\lf mul
l>dow the joi111 un tlir main
Sl"tlll ·llpt· I -- srcm ro lcm•t· a ¼i11 ( I rm)
St'Cticm (mallet) at the l>llSt.'
sicle-slioor
-- of each n 111i11g.
more than ¼in
(5mm). Then uecH rhc
humid climates they may be rooted
outdoors; they take up to three 111onths
cuuings <1s scmi•1ipe to root but form sturdy plants.
n111i11gs. Tliis method
rhin-srrmmccl LAYERING
gi\'tS
-------------
n111i11gs a mmt"
subsuuui!ll ba:,r fmm
Use either simple or serpentine layering
(see pp.106-7); containe r-grown plants
,\lcillf,
wJ1id1 w produce mms. may be layered into pots and separated.

OTHER SHRUBS AND CLIMBING PLANTS

ADI I IOPt-lYLLL.M Take sof1wood
to semi-ripe cuuings (srr pp.
100-101 ,ma9.5) t Simple layer
in spring (see 11. 106) ! , Sow seeds
in amumn (s,c p. 104) !-
ACACIA Take semi-ripe cuuings
(s«: /J.95) u. Soak seeds in ho,
wmcr (sec p. lOJ) : sow in spring
a, 70-77°F (2 1- 2s0 c) ,.
A CALYPt-lA RoOl sof1woocl 01'
s1em-1ip cunings (sc, ,,. 100-0 J)
at 70-Sl 0 1' (21-27°C) !. Divide
clumps (sec p.101) in spring!.
ACCA Rom semi-ripe cunings
(ser ,,.95) in a rros1-free place or
under prolcclion with bo11nm
hea1 UI- Sow seeds as for fmsia
(sec p. 128) ! ,
AcscULL'S Sow fresh seeds
outside in auiumn (sec p. 103) !-
Divide suckers (sec p. l Ol) !.
AKEBIA Take greenwood cuu ings
(see p. 101) in la1e spring 10
miclsumrner U , Sow seeds in
spring after a shon period of
cold s1m1ifica1ion (see pp.103-4)
I- Serpentine layering (see p. 107)
gives best results!-
ALOYSIA Take softwood to semi-
ripe cuttings rrom spring lO
midsummer as for Cmyopteris
(Sl'Cp./2/)!.
r\L\OC>'INt Root scmi·ripc
cunings (,er p.95) wilh genilc
bouom heat,. Sow seeds in
spring (sec ,,. 101) !-
AMrLLOPSb Take softwood 10
greenwood cut~lngs as for
Panl,e11ociss11s (sec p.136) !. Sow
seeds in au111111n (see ,,. 103) !-
Ar11ELANDRA Take greenwood
eulli ngs (sec p.101) : use 68-77°F
(20-25°C) bo11om heat 1.
ARALIA Take root cuuings or
species as for Celastrus (see
J>.122) u. Divide suckers as for
A111ela11chitr (sec p.118) U. Sow
fresh seeds in au1umn (seep. 103)
U-Spliced side graft variega1cd
forms (sec p. l 09) U.
ARCTO'>TAP11,1 0!> Take sen1i-ripc
eu1 1ings (srr ,,.95) in autumn u.
Soak seeds in hol water; sow in
au1umn (s,·c P/>. 103-4) U-
ARDISIA Take softwood to sem i-
ripe cuttings in summer as for
Hibiscus rosa~si11ensis (see p. JJ J)
U- Sow seeds as ror Passiflora
(ser p. 136) a.
ARGVRANTl-tEMLM Take sor1wood
lOsem i.ripe, nodal stem-tip
c,t11ings ( ,i-c pp. IOI mu/ 95) l-
AR1sro1.oc111A Take softwood
cu11ings (see p. 100) of 1cnclcr
species in spring: for hardier
ones. lake greenwood cuttings
(see p.101) until midsmnmcr ~.
Sow seeds in spring (sec p. l 04) l-
ARO'llA Root softwood 10
greenwood cuttings in c:ul)'
summer (src pp. 100-01) l .
Divide suckers (sec I'· IO I) in late
winier!. Sow seeds in
autumn (see p. 103) ! ,
J\RlrMISIA lnsen greenwood
stem-tip cuttings (see
p. 101 ) in spring in a rrcc-
draining medium under
plaslic l- Take semi-ripe
stern-tip cuuings as for
l'hlo111is (seep. l 37) l-
A~l~UNA Take roo1 cu11ings
in winier as for Ccfastrus
(sec p.122) a.
Sow seeds in
autumn (sec p. 103) U.
BANKSIA Root serni-ripe stem-
tip cu11ings (see p.101) in late
summer in rockwool plugs or
frcc~draining medium U -
Spacc-sow seeds in spring after
giving smoke treatment (Sff
,,,,.103-4) u.
8 AULRA Root semi-ripe cuttings
(see p.95) in 1111dsummcr in a
free-draining medium 1- S0,\1
seeds in spring (,ec J>. 104) a1
68-77°F (20-2s0 c> l-
BoRoN1A Root semi-ripe cut1ings
as for f>ftlomis (sec p . 137) u. Sow
seeds in spring (seep. 104) and
keep I hem cool u.
BRl'CKl·NTll,\UA Take greenwood
cuuings as for evergreen
azaleas (see Rltodode11dro11,
J>- l 38) l-Sow seeds as for
Rhoclo,lendro11 (see p. 138) l-
BRUGMANSIA Rool softwood
to semi-ripe cu11ings (see
pp.100-01 am/ 95) in
spring and summer in a
free.draining medium or
rockwool plugs!- Sow
seeds in spring (see J>. I04) at
68-77°F c20-2s0 c> ,.
B•uNFH5lA Take sofiwood
and greenwood cu11ings (sec
pp.100-01) in spring and
summer,.
BANKS1A ATTENUATA

119
A-Z OF SH RUBS AND CLIMBlNG PLANTS
B UDDLEJA BUTTERFLY BUSH, BUDDLE/A
$oFTWOOD OR GREENWOOD
cumNGS in spring and
su1111ner~
SEMl·RlPE CUTTINGS from
m1d!>ummer !
HARDWOOD CUTTINGS from
:uuumn lO midwinter 1
SEEDS in spring l
The shrubs in this
Ou,ldlrja ,lavidii
·Empire Blue genus root readily from
softwood and greenwood nodal stem-tip
Buxus Boxwooo
GREENWOOD CUTTINGS from tarly to midsummer i
SEMH=UPE CUfflNGS from 1:uc summer 10 la1c
autumn 1
Orv1s10N in spring 1
SeeDs in corly spring l
Use a free-drain ing medium 10 root
cuuings of the evergreen shrubs in this
genus. Take nodal stem-tip cunings
from greenwood (sec p.101). Semi-ripe
cuttings (see below) root in 6-8 weeks
outdoors, or under cover in cold climates.
They root more quickly if placed under
plastic and given bottom heat.
Buxus sempervirens and its cultivars
can be divided using a spade (see p.101) .
Sow seeds after a short period of cold
(see pp.103-04) for more even
germination. Boxwood is slow-growing.
more so from seeds, so it may take
4-5 years to obtain a plant ready for
planting out.
BOXWOOD CUTTINGS
Root lmge 111011bers of 4i11 (10cm) scmi-,ipe
1 cuttings (liere of Buxus sempervirens) in
cells or soil mix plugs (sec inset). Tl1e following
sp1i11g, 1101 the c11rri11gs si11gly into 3111 (8cm) pots.
Grow on the cuuiugs. J)inching out 1l1e tips
2 regularly. In the wdlmm, plmu rhem our
into a well·prepared nursery bed, spacing them
12-18i11 (30-45cm) crnd grow 011 for 3-'I years,
120
or internodal cuttings (see pp. I 00-0 I)
and from semi-ripe cuttings (see p.95).
Reduce foliage by half on B11ddlej,1
davidii cultivars. With B. globosa,
avoid material affected by leaf and bud
nematodes. Keep hardwood cuuings
(see p.98) frost-free.
Sow seeds outdoors (sec pp.103-04)
where they are to nower in 6-12 months
when the soil reaches 50°F (I0°C).
C ALLICARPA BEAUTYBERRY
SOFTWOOD CUTTINGS in early summer U
SEMt·RIPE c1.mmas from earlr 1oummcr U
H AROWOOO cuntNGS in late :-nHu1nn lO mic.lwi111cr
Seeos in :t\ll\llnn or spnng I
Softwood and semi-ripe cuttings (see
pp.JOO and 95) of the shrubs in the
genus root best with hormone rooting
compound. For Callicarpajapo11ica,
try hardwood cuttings (see p.98). Sow
seeds from the fruits fresh or dried
(see pp. J 03-04).
C AMELLIA
SEMl•R1PE CUTTINGS from miclsummcr lO
early au1umn U
HAAOWOOO CUTTINGS from :.muunn to late
wimer 111
Seeos in autumn or spring!
LAYERING in spring'
GRAFTING m nml- to hue winlcr lU
Most of the evergreen shrubs in this
genus root fro,n se,ni-ripe cuttings (see
p.95). They need care and free-draining
1nedium in colder climates but are easy
in warmer regions. CutLings may be
internodal or nodal (see below) , with ¾in
(1.5cm) wounds, but nodal tip cuuings
produce a nowering plant quickly, in
3-4 years. Apply hormone rooting
compound sparingly .on single-node
cuttings. With hardwood cuuings (see
p.98), pinch out flower buds and give
bottom heat of 54-68°F (l 2-20°C);
rooting takes 6-12 weeks.
Gather seeds as soon as the neshy
fruits split. Sow fresh, or soak the hard
seed coats in hot water before sowing in
spring (see pp.103-4). Ca,nellias make
good subjects for hybridizing (see p.21 ).
TYPES OF SE MI-RIPE CU TT ING
C. x w1lllc,msli Stem spli1 verrirnHy lo
NODAL INTERNOO,\L
LEAF-BUD LEAF-BUD
C AMPSIS TRUMPET VINE
SEMl·RIPE CUTTINGS i1\ summer~,
I
H ARDWOOD CUTT'INGS from :1utumn 10 midwinter
ROOT CUTTINGS in winter'
SEEDS in spring'
LAYERING in summer or winter,
The roots of these vigorous, deciduous
climbers, if taken as cuttings while the
plant is dormant (see Celastn,s, p. I22),
produce strong plants that are more
easily overwintered than those from
other cuttings. A nowering plant ,nay
be raised in three years.
Take more semi-ripe cuttings (see
p.95) than you need in colder climates,
since rooted cuttings do not always
I overwinter well. When taking hardwood
cuuings (see p.98), check that the wood
is living (green below the bark) - many
of the new shoots may die back. The)•
root easily if kept cool and humid.
Seeds gathered in autumn fro,n dry
capsules and sown in spring (see p.104)
germinate readily. Campsis radicans
climbs b)• ,neans of aerial roots and is a
good plant for self-layering (see p.107).
HYBRIDIZING CAMELLIAS
To prepare a camellia Jo,· pollinatio11. select a
blc,om thlll has 1101 fully ope11tcl (sec inset) a11cl
carefully remo,·e alJ llie pcwls and stamens with
Cl pair of twce,zel's to expose 1l1e stigmas.
Simple layer (see p.106) low-growing
shoots of no more than ½in (1 2mm)
diameter. Allow up to two years for
the layer to root before lifting.
Camellia reticulata and its cultivars
are more successful if grafted than when
taken as cuuings. Apical-wedge (see
p.108), whip (see p.109) or cleft graft
(see right) onto two-year-old seedlings
or cuttings of C. japonica, C. salue11e11sis,
or C. reticulata to nower in 2-3 years.
Ltu);tr' cuuiragfor
slow•rooling s11•ccies
obwin more cuwngs
NODAL SPLIT TMREE-NODED
STEM-TIP LEAF-BUD STEM

C ARYOPTERIS
B LUEMIST SHR UB
Sonwooo cunrNGS rrom spring 10 mi<lsumrn<-r I
GREEN\VOOO cumNGS from late sprtng 10
midsummer:
SEMI-RIPE CUTTINGS from nud- to late summer!
HARDWOOD CVTI'INGS from l:ttc autumn to
m1dwm1cr,
SEEDS in spring I
The deciduous subshrubs in Lhis
genus root readily from softwood and
greenwood cuttings (see pp.100-01)
and are prime candidates for rooting
directly in a 3'/2in (9cm) pot (see p.96).
Rooting occurs within three weeks in
a warm, humid environ ment. Treat
sem i-ripe cuuings (see p. 95) as above,
or root in a cold fratne or cloche.
Hardwood cu uings (see p.98) also root
well in frost-free si tes outdoors or in
conLainers on a heated bench in a frost-
free greenhouse.
Seeds gathered from dry fruiLS in
autu mn, dried, then sown in spring (see
pp.103-4) germinate readily. New planLS
nower in 2-3 years.
CLEFT GRAFTI NG CAMELL IA
PP'epare two scions: wJ,c
1 shoots
semi-,i JJe wirh
J-4 buds. Trim off die lower
\ I lraves mul any flowe r buds.
C111 1wo I i11 (2.5cm) slive,·s
of bt1rk f rom rite bllse of eacl, IO Jorn, a weclge
diar lws no bal'h 011 one side cmd some barll
a11cl iii, lowesr bud 011 1/i, orhcr (sec inset),
0 \ 0 scions pwduce
1
V(Jfcu,u,f ropgrowt11
Cui rhe roorsrocl, down ro Jin (8cm) a11d
2 111a/,e a Iin (2.5cm) vertical cut 11110 rite
top. Slide 011e of rhe scions i1110 each e11d of 1/,e
cut, so 1/im rite bark of rite scio11 is flush with
rhar of rite s1ocl1 (see inset). Se11I the u11io11
wi1h grafting wax and <dlow w callus.
C EANOTHUS CALIFORNIA LllAC
SOFTWOOD CUTTlNGS from late spring to
mid.summer!
SEMI-RIPE cumNGS from midsummer u, late
autumn U
HARDWOOD CUTTINGS from lal(! muumn to late
winter U
ROOT CtJmNGS in autumn U Soak- the hard seeds in hot waler before
Seeos in l:uc winter UI
These arc evergreen and deciduous
shrubs. Evergreens are best grown
from semi-ripe or hardwood cuuings,
and deciduous shrubs from softwood
cuuings, Lo nowcr in 2-3 years. All
species may be seed-raised.
CUTTINGS
Nodal stem-tip softwood cutLings
(see pp.100-0/) , 3in (8cm) long, of
deciduous and semi-deciduous cultivars
rooL in 4-6 weeks in a free-draining
1nedium with hormone rooLing
contpound. Take semi-ripe cuuings'
of evergreen culLivars with a heel (see
pp.95- 6) if possible. Bottom heal of
54-59°F ( 12-15°C) will speed rooLing.
Hardwood cuttings (see p.98) of
small-leaved species such as Cea1101l111s
impressus and their cultivars need a dry
OTHER SHRUBS AND CLIMBING PLANTS
BLJPLElRUM Semi-ripe cunings (src p.100) in
summer 1, Sow seeds in spring (see p.104) 1-
CAES,\LPINIA Root softwood and greenwood
cunings (s,·e pp.100--01) in spring and
sumrner in a free-draining medium,. Sow
seeds as for Clic1111h11s (sec p.12'1); tender
species require 68-77°F ( 20-25°C) I,
CALCEOu\RIA Take softwood cuuings (see
p. l 00) in spring and c..1rly summer. Bottom
hea, is not needed: cu11ings will rot if 1he
cnvironmcnl is too damp U, Sow seeds in
spring (see p.10'1); no heat is needed U-
CALUANDRA Take semi•ripe cuttings (sec
p.95) in summer,. Simple layer (srr /1, 106)
in spring.I. Sow seeds in spring (see ,,. 104)
a, 61-64°F (16-J8°C) after treating wit h
smoke (sec p. l 03) ,.
CALuSTE~ION Roo1 greenwood to semi-ripe
cuuings in summer and autumn as for
Olearia (see p. 135) 1. Surface-sow seeds
in spring (see p.104) ,.
CALLUNA See pp.110-1 J.
LlLOCIIONE Take semi-ripe
cuuings (see p.95) in summer,,
CALOTHAMNUS Root greenwood 10
semi-ripe cuttings in s ummer and ~ CASSIOPE Take greenwood
autumn as for 0/earia (see p. 135) 1- ~
Surface-sow seeds in spring (sec
p.104) 1,
CALYCANTIIUS Root greenwood and
semi-ripe cunings (sec pp. JOI a11cl
95) in summer in a free-draining
medium with bouom heal U- Sow
seeds in auLUmn (see p.103) U,
CAlYTRIX Root greenwood to semi-ripe
B UDDLEJA - C EANO THU S
rooting mediunt to prevent rot; they
root well in rockwool plugs. Take root
cuuings as for Celas1 ,11s (see p.122).
SEEDS
sowing (see pp.103-4) . Some species
need three months' chilling; others
respond to smoke treatment.
CEANOTHUS ' PIN C USHION'
Cu11i11gs of 1l1is and other e,•ergree11 CeanoLhus
are best wlie11 wit/, a heel, if possible.from semi•
ripe wood IO encouroge rooting.
cuuings in s urnmcr and autumn as for
Olealia (sec p.135) 1.
CANTU,\ Root greenwood and semi·ripc
cu11ings (see />p.101 ancl 95) throughout
surnmer with gentle bottom heat,. Sow
seeds in spring (sec p.104) 1.
CARAGANA Take cuuings in summer as for
deciduous Vibun111111 (see p.1'13) 1- Treat
seeds as for Clia111lous (see />. 12'1) 1- Topwork
weeping forms onto C. {irboresccns as for
Sn/ix cnpret1 var, 11c11d11l11 (sec p.89) I-
CARISSA Take semi-ripe cu11ings (see p.95)
in summer 1. Sow seeds in au,umn or spring
(sec pp.103- 04) at 64-70°F ( 18-2l°C) 1-
CAR~tl(..HAEU,\ Root scmi•ripe cuttings from
midsunnner to autumn as for Olearia (sec
p.135) 1- Seeds as for Clia111hus (see p. l 24) 1-
CARPE~TERIA Often micropropagated: rnke
greenwood cunings (seep. IOI ) from
111icropropaga1ed stock 10 obtain bcn er
. roo)ing U, Sow seeds in spring (see p.104)
· . a, 77°F (25°C) U-
CAss1N1A Root cuuings as for
Lava11dula (see p.132); cuuings
can rot off U-
cuttings as for evergreen azaleas
(sec Rl1od0</c11clm11, p. l 38) ,. Sow
seeds and layer as for Erica (sec
pp.l 10-l I },
CASTANOPSIS Sow seeds in
autumn (seep. 103) ~-
CALUSTEMON CITRINUS
"flREORAND'
121
A-Z OF SHRUBS AND CL IMBING PLANTS
CELASTRUS 8JTTERSiVEET
SOFlWOOD OR GREENWOOD
CUTTINGS in earl> '>UlllntCr'
ROOT CUTTINGS m winter'
For this genus of main ly
deciduous climbers,
nodal softwood or
greenwood cuttings
Cdm11u, (see pp.100-01) ma)'
orbkulC1111, be taken from the stem-
Lips and will root well. Several cuttings
1nay also be Laken fro111 one shoot.
Prune growth on new plants by about
50 percent LO ensure a well-branched
plant. New plants from cuuings reach
maturity in 3-4 years.
TAKING BITTERSWEET ROOT CUTTINGS
Cuc obliqucl)' m base
of tad, , n1 ion
~,
Dig" hole l8-24i11 (45-60cm) f,01111hc
1 base of d1t· JJllft'lll plcmr to expose the roots.
Remc,vc lc11g1hs of roo1 cu leas, 4i11 (10cm) long
thm ore btlw(·t11 the rhiclmcs.s of pencil 011(/ a
finger, cuuing straight ocmss at rlu· top of eacl1
moi. \¼'rsh off rhe soil <Hill <lh i<k the: mors into
1
l1/.--2iu (-l-5cm) Sc(tim1s (sec insel).
CHAENOMELES FLO~VERJNG OR ] APANESE QUINCE,]APONICA
SOFTWOOD OR GREENWOOD CUTTINGS in lale spring
10 early sutmner U
HARDWOOD cumNGS from aummn l O midwinter 1
R OOT CU1ilNGS from :l\.llllllll\ l O midwinu:r 1
SEEOS in muumn or spring,
lAYE~lNG in 1:llc winter i provid ing a three-month period of cold
Hardwood c uuings of these deciduous
sh rubs produce a large plant m ore
quickly than o ther methods, usually
in 2-3 years. Spreading fonns are easy
10 layer.
C UTTINGS
Nodal s1e111-1ip softwood or greenwood
cuttings (see pp.100-01) a re best taken
with a heel (see p.96) and respond 10
hormone rooting compound. Humidity
of 100 percent prevents scorch. Rooting
takes about four weeks. Hardwood
cuttings (see p.98) with a wound root
easily if treated with hormone rooting
com pound and kept cool and hu1nid.
Root cuttings shou ld be %in (8mm)
in diameter and 3in (8cm) long; treat as
for Cclas1n,s (see above}, but place
horizontally on the surface and lightly
cover. You can also root cuttings in
nursery beds (see p.96).
122
One length of root provides _several
cuttings, without any special care or
facilities. Trim root cuuings (sec below)
LO size using a sharp knife or pruners.
Discard thin TOOLS, and ensure on ly
undamaged material is used.
ln colder cl ima tes, cuttings will root
and produce shoots in a cold frame but
respond more quickly in a frost-free
greenhouse. If they are slow 10 shoot,
place them on a heated bench for a
couple of weeks. The)' s h ould be ready
for polling in spring. AlternaLive ly, insert
two cuttings directly in a 3 ½in (9cm )
pot to avoid any root disturbance.
2 Dust the <uuiug~ with f1111gicicle. Fill a pm
with a f,tc·clmining soilless 110ui11g mix
mulf,rm. Pres.<; the cuttings ,·crtia.dly into die
mix so tlwt the flm·cur ends are .slightly above
1hr su,jacc. Space ll1c111 2-Ji11 (5-8c111) a/J/irl .
Cov,,,. wirh a ½in ( I cm) layrr of sluu-p sand.
\Va1ei; label, ""'' l1Ccp i11 afros1-frec fJlacc .
SEEDS
Gather seeds from ripe fruits (see below)
and sow fresh in autumn (see p .103).
Alternatively, sow seeds in spring after
stratification (sec pp. I 03-4).
LAYERING
Simple layering (see p. 106) is very
effective. Layers should be
read y to lift in spring.
...,..,....
.~
.•
•• •••
COLLECTING FLOWERING QUINCE SEEDS
\.\t.iir until die fruits have rur11cd yellow ,md
come ea.sily off ,he branch i11 cmumm. Using a
sharp /wife, £111 1hmugh 1/ie 0111erfleslo a,rcfully
by sco,ing around rhefruir once. Twist open 1l1c
frnit sons not to ,lamage ,u1y seeds. Pidl om the
seecls wi1h a b/11111 /wife or pla111 label.
C1ssus
CUTTINGS ~'ll tltl) lime '
Th is large genus includes a range of
shrubs and vines that can be e.isi ly
increased from cu ttings. New plants
will flower in two years. Softwood and
semi-ripe nodal or in ternodal cuttings
(see pp.100 and 95), 2 ½-3in (6-Scm)
in length, will root readily. If the
Cullings are kepi warm at 68-77°F
(20-25°C) and humid, rooting
usually takes 3-6 weeks.
CISTUS S UN ROSE, R OCK ROSE
SoFTWOOD CUTTINGS from late spring lO earl)
sununcr U
SEMl~R1PE CUTTINGS from midsummer to btt
winter!
Seeos u, spring 1
Cuttings of these small Lo medium-
sized evergreen sh rubs must be
protected against rot. Seeds may be
sown as for bedding plants to obtain
nowering planLS in two years.
CUTTINGS
Softwood cuttings (see />.100) root
readil)'· Cistus produce man)' sideshoots,
and it is important 10 select material
carefull)' (see below). Rooting takes up
10 four weeks. You can also root direct!)'
in pots (see />. 96).
Semi-ripe cuuings {see p.95) do well
in a cold frame over winter. Material
taken in late winter from stock plants
(grown under cover in co lder climates)
before new growLh commences roots
quickly. Watch ou t for powdery mildew,
particularly on C. x purpureus and its
cuhivars; this reduces rooting potential.
If present, the foliage will be weak, wi1h
yellow and brown blotches. Spray the
p lan t wi th a fungicide before taking
cuuings from ii.
SEEDS
Seeds from d ry capsules germin ate
readily. Sow them (see
pp.103-04) in a sheltered
sunn y site, where they are
'\
..J
V"-.
Lo flower, or in a seedbed .
6ucl, of
:\ttitt1blc si~f
SOFTWOOD CUTTINGS
In early sw1mie1; be s1,rt
to choose a nonflowering
shoot with buds lH llie
Correll s1age for sof1woocl
c1111i11gs. If 1/ic buds arc
O\'e1g,own, they may ,lk
off. lc<1vi11g 1he romecl
c11ui11g ''blind .. cmd
unable ro produce any O,•ctgroM1
new shoois. bod

CLEMATIS OLD MAN'S BEARD, TRAVELER'S JO); VIRGIN'S BO~VER
CUTTINGS from ~prmg to late summer i
Seeos inautumn i
l.AYEA1NG m hue winter to :-.priog i
GRAFTING m Ja1c wi1\lc:r.
Of the deciduous and evergreen climbers
in the genus, deciduous cuh ivars are
often grown from softwood cuuings
and species from semi-ripe cuuings.
Layering (see p.107) is most su ited
to Clematis montana and its cu ltivars.
Grafting larger-flowered hybrids ensures
more vigorous pla111s. Sow seeds of
species. h usually takes 2-3 years for
new plants 10 flower.
C UTTINGS
Leaf-bud cuuings (see p.97) can be 1aken
from softwood and semi-ripe shoo1s.
They are prepared in the same way (see
below), but cuuings of sof1wood arc
1aken from spring 10 midsummer and
of semi-ripe wood from mid- 10 late
summer. They all root well, but semi-ripe
cuuings need less humidity. For large-
leaved softwood cuuings, for example in
some or the Clemmis 111011ta11a cuhivars,
reduce the cuuing 10 a single leaf 10
avoid overcrowd ing and botrytis.
PREPARED CUTTING
CLERODENDRUM
SOFTWOOD CUTTINGS in hue spring to c:irly
summer ~
5EMl•A1PE CUTTINGS in >UIIHnc:r J.
ROOT CUTTINGS in au1 umn 10 nudwmter 1
Seeos in spring J.
DIVISION from late winter to spnng ! CtRATOSTIGMA Take sof1wood CUtlings in
The evergreen and deciduous sh rubs
and climbers in this genus roo1 readily
from softwood and sc1ni-ripe cu uings
(see pp.JOO and 95) in 3-6 weeks. Take
root cuuings as for Ce/astn,s (see p.122),
but insert singly in 3'/2in (9cm) pots for
nowers in 2-3 years. Gather seeds from
1he fruits, then provide a three-month
period of cold s1ra1ifica1ion before
sowing in spring (see pp.103-04).
Take advantage of natural suckers
of Clero<lend1111n b1111gei b)' separating
them (see riglll) in spring. Mature
plants of clump-forming species can
be divided from late winier to spring
(seep. I 01 ). Suckers will flower in the
same year.
COLLECTING AND SOWING CLEMAT IS SEEDS
Choose a cl,y cl<1y and pull away rite ripe,
1 fluffy seec/heads. There is 110 11eed ro remove
,1,e ,_,lumcs from rhe seecls.
Pol rooted semi-ripe cuuings (see p.95)
in spring. C. a1111andii and its cultivars
root well from semi-ripe or hardwood
cuuings (see p.98) taken in midwinter
4-6 weeks before new growth starts and
inserted in rockwool plugs. Each cuning
must have a well-formed bud. Apply
honnone rooting compound and keep
humid with 54--59°F (12-15°C) bouom
heat. Once rooted, pol and grow on the
cuuings in a moist atmosphere.
LEAF-BUD CUTTl1'/GS
Tt1'1c inrc,11odal le<1flmd cuttings
<1bout 2i11 (5cm) l011gfro111 rite
cwTcm seasons growl11. L.ooh Jo,
STRONG BUDS well-formed buds in 1/,c ltcif cc~ils;
wtah buds nu1y 1101 pmtluce new
slioots. l..argrr•lcm•ccl cuJtivtirs. such
tis tl1is C lc1rnuis arrn,1ndii, ~hould be
trimmed to only one leaf, rather than
two. If neccssm)', cw the leaflets in
\VHAK BUDS lu1lf to reduce moisrnn.· loss.
GLORY BOlVER
D IVIDING CLEROOENORUM BUNGEI
Select a heahhy s11cl1er (lcf1 in picture) wi1/1 ilS
ow11 fibrous roots. Remove the sC1il carefully from
between the 1mnmt and tlie suda•,· to expose the
underground stems (stolons) linldng them. Slice
rl,rough the stolons wirh the blacle of a SJJClde.
Lifr 1he suclier, rrim any damaged or overlong
roots, 1111d pla111 0111 in preJJClred soil.
CELASTRUS - CL ETHRA
Sow rhe seeds rhi11I> i11 a p•CJJClrcd JJCI" of
2 free·tlrai11ing soil mix. CCl\cr with a 1lri11
layer of mix 111111 top·cl,-css will, grit. l.11/Jcl.
SEEDS
Gather and sow seeds fresh in au1umn
(see above). The)' need a period of cold
stratification (see p.103) 10 ensure even
germina1ion in spring.
LAYERING
Serpentine layer (see p.107) shoots or
the previous season's growth. The layers
should root by the following summer.
GRAFTING
Use one- or two-year-old C. vitalba
seedlings as roolslocks. Take l ¼in
(3.5cm) scions from the current season's
grow1h or the cuhivar, cut just above a
bud. Apical-wedge graft (seep. J08) the
scions onto Jin (8cm) long and 'A.in
(3111111) 1hick roots. Pot singly so that the
buds arc level with the soi l ,nix surface.
Each root will sustain its scion until the
scion produces its own roots and is self-
supponing (1his is called a nurse graft).
O THER SHRUBS AND CLIMBING PLANTS
CrPII.ALA'HltUS Take scmi•iipc cuuings
in summer, or hardwood in winter (sec
pp.95 1111d 98) ,. Sow seeds in auwmn
(sec p. I03) ,.
earl)' summer as for fuchsia (see p.I 28) ,.
CESrRU\I Take sof1wood 10 semi-ripe
cuuings (sec pp. 100-01 cmd 95) ,.
CH1MONANTHlJS Take sortwood cuuings
wi1h a heel (sec /Ip.JOO cmcl 96) in la1e
springU. Simple layer (see 11.106) u. Sow
seeds in au1umn (see p.103) U .
CHIONANTHUS Sow seeds in autumn (see
p. 103) 10 germinale after 1wo winters u.
CHOISYA Rool greenwood 10 hardwood
cuuings as for £scallo11ia (see p.127) ,.
x C1TR01:0RTUNELLA Root semi-ripe
cuuings in summer (see p.95) ,. Air layer
in spring (see p. I05) ,.
Cr.ETHRA Take cuuings as for evergreen
azaleas (see Rltodocle11dro11. JJ.138) ,. Sow
seeds as for Rlwdode11dro11 (see JJ.138) , .
123
A-Z OF SHRUBS AN D CLIMBING PLANTS

CLlANTHUS GLORY PEA GRAFTING A CLIANTHVS FORMOSVS SEEDLI NG

CUTTINGS rrom late spring 10 early at11t11nn 1
SEEDS in spring'
G RAFTING 111 ~(>ring!

T hese evergreen to se1ni-eve'rgreen

climbing s hrubs roo t readily from
softwood and semi-ripe cuuings (see
pp.JOO and 95). Take stem cuuings ..
from new g rowth , trimming jus t below Jf.
a node, and reduce lhe com pound leaf /
by up to half. Rooting takes about fou r \Vhe11 it has two seed lc,avcs. carefully lift the Lif1 a Clian1h11s formosus sccdli11g, also <11
weeks; pot early-rooted c uttings into
3 '/4in (9cn1) pots. Water sparingly over
1 ro,11swch seedling (Cofutca arborcsccns). 2 tl,e two.leaf swgc. Cur off Ilic rools, making
1\/ith a sterilized razor blade, slit the top ¼in tm <mgk<l cut 011 tad1 side of 1l1e stem to form a
winter, and pinch out tips for bus hy (1.5cm) of rhe stem, starting IJcuvecn tJ1c kc,vcs. wedge m 1he base (sec inset).
plants. Slug damage can be severe.
Gather the hard seeds from the long, Sdon
hair)' pods, then scarify by abrading o r
Do nol Hghtcn
wool, or !-fem l
soaking (see p.102) prior to sowing to "ill be. bnust·d
ensure good germ ination, in 10-14 days.
The d esert pea, Clianthus formosus,
recently re named Swai11s011a fonnosa, is
very short-lived unless grafted (see rigltt)
onto seed lings of C. p1111iceus or Colutea
arborescens. Use stock seed lings that
have been germinated te n days earlie r
than the scion seedlings. Work as Gendy i11scr1 the scion into the cut sh:m of Pfocc in a l1umid case at a ,uinimum of 64°F
quic kly as possible to prevent the cuts
from dry ing; keep the s toc k in a plastic
3 rite swcl, seedling, as far as ir will go. Bind
tlic grnft with sofr l111i11i11g yw 11. Por the grafted
4 (18°C). 011cc the graft lws 1<1hc11 (sec inset)
aml rhe seedling is in ac1h•c growth, remo\'e 1l1e
bag while preparing the scion . Grafted seedling in soilless set'Cl mix in a 2in (5cm) pol. y<ffn. C 111 ii mwry carefully with a sa,lpel: hold
p lanlS nower in 1-3 years. Ser the gr-afr just above soil lel'd. 11,e seedling steady wi1h ovce<:frs.

CODIAEUM CROTON CORNUS D OGVIOOD

CUTTINGS at :my time 1 SoFTWOOO Clm'"INGS in hue spring or early
LAYERING at :my lime' summcrU to root hardwood cuuings (see ,,.98) in
H ARDWOOD CUTTINGS from la1c autuml\ l (> a s he ltered s ite. Sow seeds gathered from
If several plants arc m1dwmtcr U ripe fruits fresh in autumn (see p.103)
required , cuuings are D1v1s10 N from late winier 10 early :,pring, before they become do rmant, or cold
easily taken from the SEEDS in aumnrn 1 s trati fy (see p.102) seeds to be sown in
evergreen s hrubs in GRAFTING in late winter U
s pring. Lift and grow on rooted suckers
this s m all genus. of C. stolonifcra (see p.101 ). Spliced s ide
Codim·,w, Take softwood and The deciduous shrubs in this genus are graft (see p.58) hard-to-root cuhivars
'Flamingo' greenwood nodal s tem - u sually easy to propagate. Cornus alba o f C. jlorida such as ' Rubra'.
tip cuttings (see pp. I 00-01 ), and dip and C. stolonifera and their cuhivars d o
the cut stems in powdered charcoal to not root readily from softwood: take
staunch the sap before in serting them in nodal cuui ngs at the correct s tage (see SOl'TWOOD
the medium. Supply 68-77°F (20-25°C) right and p.100), no m ore than 2'!.in CUTTING MATERIAL
bouom heat. Cuuings shou ld root in (7cm) long, from the new stem Lips. Tc,ht t'tHtfngs just c,s breathing
4- 6 weeks. New plants should mature Use a free-draining medium and a weak pores. or lemicels, begin w fonn
in two yea rs. horn1one rooting compound. Rooting ,m ,Ire stem. This Corn us :'l.lba
If only one or two n ew plants a re takes about four weeks. 'Elcgcmrissinia· curring lras well.
required , crotons can be air la)'ered (see The best way to increase dogwoods clevclop,:cl le111icds (sec inset) ,11
p. l 05) for a good-sized plant in a year. g rown for their colorfu l winte r stems is rhe l){tSC and will not root easiJy.

OTHER SHRUBS AND CLIMBING PLANTS

CoBAEA Sow seeds in spring
(see p.104) 1-
Co11 tl'lt\ Rool scmi·ripe cut·
tings (see p.95) in autumn in
open medium with gentle hea, 1-
COLUTE.A Take softwood cu11ings CoROKIA Softwood cuttings (see
(see 1>. 100) 1- Treat seeds as for
Clim11l111s (see abo,•e) 1,
CONVOLVULUS Take semi-ripe
c1111ings (see />.95) in summer
and autumn: keep dryish U-
COPROS"" Take semi-ripe
c uuings as for Pittosponm1 (see
p.137) 1- Sow seeds in spring
wi1 hou1 exira heat (see p.104) 1-
p.100) in summer U. Sem i-ripe
cu11ings (see p.95) in summer
and autum n; keep dryish U-
Coao:<11 LA Take greenwood
stem-tip cuuings (see p.101) in
early summer u.Sow seeds as
for Clitmlhus (see above) U-
CoRYLOPSIS Softwood cu11ings as
for Syri11ga (sec p.142) U- Seeds
sown o utside in spring (see
,,. I04) 1ake two years to gcrmi-
na,c 11- Simple or French layer
in spring or au1111nn (sec p.106) 1-
CUPHEA Roo1 softwood to semi-
ripe cuuings (sec pp.100-01 mu/
95) from spring 10 autumn l-
Sow seeds in spring (see ,,.104) 1-
CYRILLJ. Rom semi.ripe cuning.s
(see p.95) rrorn midsummer in a
free-draining medium U- Take
roo1 cullings as for Celasrrus (see
,,.122) 11- Sow seeds in spring
(seep. I 04) 11.
DABOECIA St•e pp.110-1 I~-

124

C ORYLUS FILBERT, HAZEL
CUTTINGS in late spring to earl)' summer U
Seeos in :rn1ttmn j:
LAYERING m lute winier :md .,.pnng i rnidsu1nmer I
GRAFTING m late wmu:r U
Some of these shrubs tend to sucker,
especiall)• grafted planlS. Avoid this
with purple-leaved Co,ylus maxima
cullivars by taking softwood nodal stern-
lip euu ings (see p.100), no more than
3-4in (8-lOcrn) long with the lip and
one juvenile leaf retained. They will root
in rockwool plugs in 4-8 weeks. Lightly
wound the bo11orn 1/.in (2cm) of the
stem of each cutting and apply some
hormone rooting compound.
Seeds gathered and sown fresh (see
p.103) germinate well if subjected 10 a
period of winter cold.
C. cwellana and C. maxima cultivars
are often French layered (see p.107). They
can also be stooled (sec p.56); 10 improve
resullS, wound young shoots and treat
with hormone rooting com pound before
hill ing up.
Whip graft (see p.109) named
cultivars 01110 C. avcflcma roolSlocks
for good-sized plan ts in 2-3 years.
COTINUS SMOKE BUSH
ClJTTINGSm spring ,u
SEEDS in 1:uc summer lo earl)• .-iutumn or
sprmg U
LAYER.ING in late wmter or early =>1>ring l
Increasing the large, deciduous shrubs
in this genus from cuttings or seeds
can be tricky. Simple layering is the
easiest way to obtain one or two new
planlS, but using a stock plant for
French layering will yield many more.
A good-sized plan, may be obtained
in 2-3 years.
CUTTINGS
Insert th in softwood nodal stem-Lip
cuuings (see pp.100-01) , l 'l.-2'/2in
(4-6cm) long wilh 2-3 young leaves, in
free-draining medium. Hormone rooting
compound and a moist atmosphere aid
EXTRACTIN G SMOKE BUSH SEEDS
Rip, s«ds
should fall
away
rrad,I)
• worry if any
,; ' ...."'• •"
, ••
• Cover witl1
------
1i1'1e so111efl11Jfy Corinus scedhcads and
1 "sc-nwch" 1hem over a sheet of 1,apcr w
S"fJCll'ate Ilic blacl, seeds fro111 rl,cir plwnes.
C OTONEASTER
$oF1WOOO OR GREENWOOO
cumNGS from spring ,o
S EM HUPE CllTTINGS rroan
midsummer to aul\lmn j:
SEEDS in spnng * SEEDS
LAYERING in early spring,
G RAFTING in late winter I
Co1011caster This large genus
S<1lidfo/i11s 'Gnom· includes a wide range
of deciduous and evergreen sh rubs,
which all root well from cullings. The
prostrate fonns lend themselves lo
layering, and grafting may be used 10
create a standard plant. New planlS
usually mature \\~thin 2-3 years.
CUTTINGS
All co1oneas1ers root readily fro1n
softwood and greenwood cuttings
(sec pp.100-01); take stem cuttings
of species with long shoolS, such as
Cotoneaster dammeri. Cotoneasters are
good candidates for rooting directly in
polS (see p.96). C. integ,ifolius roolS best
when the growing tip is retained.
In colder areas, semi-ripe cuuings
(see p.95) can be rooted in a cold frame.
rooting, which takes up to six weeks. In
cooler areas, encourage rooted cuuings
to put as ,nuch growth on as possible
before autumn, since they often fai l to
overwin1er if 100 small.
SEEDS
Seeds gathered as they ripen (see below)
and sown fresh (see p. I 03) genninate
well in spring. Stored seeds develop
hard coalS so must be scarified and cold
stratified (seep. I 03) for spring sowing.
LAYERING
Simple layer (seep. I 06) in late winter
for rooted layers by autumn. If French
layered (see p.107) in spring, a bush
sends up a host of new shoolS that will
also be well rooted by autumn.
Hold up rhe slwei
2 of JXlper and ge111ly
blow away lht loose
plumes. Sow rhe seeds
in a s111all poi filled
wlrlr soi/less seed
mix. (Do not
clraff falls
on the mLx.)
a fine layer of
mix, water.
and label.
CLIANTHUS - D ABOEC IA
If rooting cuuings under plastic or in a
closed case, rooting occurs more rapidly
with bouom heal.
Extract the hard-coated seeds from ripe
fruits (see p .102) in autumn and provide
periods of first warm and then cold
stratification before sowing in spring
(see pp.I 03-4). They should germinate
in the following year. Cotoneasters
hybridize freely and they do not
generally come true.
LAYERING
Simple layering (see p .106) works well
if only one or two planlS are required.
PlanlS may also self-layer (seep. 107).
GRAFTING
Whip graft (see p.101) scions of
C. 'Hybridus Pendulus· onto a tall,
straight-stemmed roolStock 10 produce
a weeping shrub or a small tree. This
is known as top-working (see Hedera,
p .130). Use a two-year-old pot-gro,vn
C. bullatus or C. frigidus as a rooLStock.
C YTISUS BROOM
S eMl·RlPE CUTTINGS 10 late
summer or t:arly auuunn U
HAROWOOO cumNGs ln
m1dwmtcrU
SEEDS m autumn or ,pnng l
New planlS or these
deciduous and
Cyli,11, x P""<ox evergreen shrubs
"Allgold" usually nower within
two years. Root semi-ripe cuuings ,vith
or without a heel (see pp.95-6) in a
very free-draining medium or rockwool
plugs. Overwatering leads to basal rot.
Humid ity, bottom heat of 54-59°F
(12-LS°C), and hormone rooting
compound speed rooting, but it still
takes 2-6 months. For Cytisus x prae,ox
and ilS cultivars, well-ripened hardwood
cuttings of strong, juvenile stems (see
p.98) root best with humidity and
bouom heat. Spray every two weeks
with a fungicide and ventilate weekly.
All species grow readily from seeds,
but hard seed coalS can be a problem.
Sow freshly gathered seeds outdoors
in autumn (seep. I 03) to germinate in
spring. Transplant pot-sown seedlings
at the seed-leaf stage into 3½in (9cm)
polS for planting the following au1u1nn.
Soak spring-sown seeds in hot water
(see pp.103-4) before sowing. Seedlings
of Cytis11s baHandieri (syn. Argy,·ocytiSLIS
battandieri) , the pineapple brootn, may
need a second growing season before
planting oul. Protect young plants from
mice and rabbits.
125
A-Z OF SHRUBS AND CLIMBI NG PLANTS

D APHNE
GREENWOOD cumNGS in
spring I<) earl)' "t11nmcr U compound, a free-draining medium, ch illing. Leave for another year 10
S EM l~~UPE CUTTINGS in and bouom heat of 59°F ( l5°C) will germinate al l the seeds. For alpines,
:-.ummcrU itnprove rooting. For alpines, take stratify fresh seeds in layers of moist
ROOT CUTTINGS in au1uinn ¼-2'/.in (l.S-7c1n) cuuings and use a peat or sand in pots outdoors or in a
,rnd winter 1 mix of 2-3 parts coarse sand 10 one of refrigerator for six weeks (see p.103).
SEEDS in micbummcr or peat. In cold climates, cunings can be Dried seeds germinate less successfully.
~,utumn 1 rooted in a cold frame. Cullings with
lAVERlNG m late spring 10 LAYERING
Daphnr virus often drop their leaves; destroy
early ~ummcr !
i nronun them. Healthy cullings take 6-10
GRAFTING in wi1ucr ~ Simple-layered (see p. I 06) shoots take
weeks to root. Take root cuuings as a year to become well rooted. Daphnes
These deciduous and evergreen shrubs for Celastn,s (see p.122). may also be air layered (see p.105).
hate drying out, so however they are
propagated, keep new plants moist. SEEDS GRAFTING
Daphnes are fickle rooters because of Harvest the ripe fruits (see p.103) and \Yater the rootstocks well in their pots
the presence of virus in most plants; remove the pulp, but there is no need to prior 10 grafting (see below). For scions,
Daphne x bud11voodii, D. cneorum, clean the seeds completely. Sow at once use strong, healthy cullings of the
D. odor", and their cuhivars are easiest to in con tainers (see p.104) in grilly seed previous year's growth - about l-2in
root. Root cunings of Daplrne mezereum soil mix and place in a frost-free place. (2.5-5cm) long for alpines, and standard
and D. ge11l11va work well. Daphnes do Most germinate in spring after a winter's length for other daphnes.
not tolerate root disturbance.
D. mezereum is often raised from TYPES OF GRAFT USED FOR DAPHNE$
seeds. Species with prostrate o r D«plmcs may be
spreading growth, such as D. /Jlagaya,w Tonguf Scio11
Scio11 i11 11cion
g)'(ifrcd using one of
and D. cneorum, arc best layered. The m,uchcs severed techniques (see
\Vclfgt• CUI
more difficult species and hybrids arc to11g11e cm ,m ,cio11 lcrt) . TIie roo1swcl,s
grafted; it can be tricky with small ~wd: most widely used
alpines but is usually successful. New are two.year•old
plains Oower in 2-3 years. Stoc. Ii ml Daphne alpina,
j u~, t1b(.I\'(' acmiloba. gimldii,
CUTTINGS mor.\
Siod: is riot laureola, m-
Take nodal stem-tip greenwood and CUI bdd~ S,ock rnczcreum. Keep
semi-ripe cuttings (sec pp.101 and 95), S PLICED SIDE- \VI II P-AND· \-VHIP newly grafted Jllams
t\PICt\ l ·
2-4in (5-lOcm) long, just as the base VENEER TONG UE (srq,. 109) \VEDCf: jus1 moist for elf
begins 10 firm up. Hormone rooting c,rr p.109) (srr t>.59) (sr, ,,.108) leflst 1c11 days.

E LAEAGNUS AUTUMN OLIVE, 0LEASTER E NKIANTHUS

S EMl•RIPE CUTTINGS from btc ,ummcr 10
autumn U Seeos in winter to
HARDWOOD cumNGS from 1:ue autumn to late
winter U
DIVISION in Spring'
SEEDS in aunnnn i deciduous rhododendrons (see p.138). ln
Cuu ings from the deciduous and
evergreen shrubs in this genus normally
root well, but in some years they are
prone 10 leaf drop and will not root.
Plants that produce suckers may be
divided. New plants shou ld be ready
10 plant out in 2-3 )'ears.
CUTTINGS
Elaeag1111s x ebbingei and its cultivars
root more reliabl)' than E. p1mge11s. With
the latter, select material with large,
bright, shiny leaves. Take nodal semi-
ripe stem cullings (see p.95), 3-4in
(7-lOcm) long and with 2-3 nodes,
retaining only the top two leaves.
vVouncl the bollom '!.in (2cm). Bollom
heal at 59-68°F (1S-20°C) speeds
rooting, which takes 8-12 weeks.
Take hardwood cuttings (see p.98)
of the most vigorous growth and roo1
in a frost-free, humid environment. The
cunings should root in 12-20 weeks.
DIVISION
E. comm11Lala spreads by suckers. Lift,
divide, and transplant suckers of a
mature plant (see p.101 ).
SEEDS
Gather seeds from ripe fruits and sow
fresh in autumn (see p.103) ; they benefit
from winter cold. E. p1111ge11s seeds ripen
in spring and may germinate al once; if
not, treat as autumn sowings.
Prq,arcd
"1(.
_ Oiscan-l
so/1 lip
Culling
nwtt·rial Trim
lowr, le.m·cs
SEMI-RIPE CUTTINGS
One shoal of1he curren1
seasons growl/, (here of
Elaeagnus x ebbingei)
pmvicles scvc,-al cuttings
(sec left). Reduce large
lea\'CS by l,a/f IO ,·cclucc
moisrn,·e loss (see above).
C UTTINGS in la1e :,,prmg 10 c-:n1y sttmmer U
c;1rlr ~prin~ U
Roo1 softwood cunings from the mainly
deciduous shrubs in this genus as for
colder areas, rooted cu11ings may fail to
overwinter because 1hc growing season
may not be long enough for the new
wood LO ripen fully. Treat seeds gathered
from dry capsules as for rhododendrons
(see p.138). New plants take 4-5 years
10 nower.
EPIPREMNUM
CUTTINGS at any lime!
LAYERING at ~lny time 1
off These evergreen, woody cliinbers
produce aerial roots along their s1ems;
cuttings taken front such shoots root
very easil)'.
Take softwood stem-tip (seep. lOl)
or semi-ripe leaf-bud cullings (see p.97),
pot the,n individually, and provide
bouom heat of 68°F (20°C). Mature
plants may be had fro1n cuttings in 2-3
years and from simple (see p.106) or air
layering (see p.105) in 1-2 years.

126

ESCALLONlA
GREENWOOD OR SEMI-RIPE Cl/TTINGS
midsummer w autumn 1
HAROWOOO CUTTINGS from lalc :nuumn IO late
\\inter!
Mos1 or 1hese mainly evergreen shrubs
can be increased from greenwood or
semi-ripe culli ngs. Rooting or 4in
(10cm) greenwood s1em cuuings
(seep. lOJ ) takes 4-8 weeks. Semi-
ripe cu11ings (sec p.95) will also root
reliably in a cold frame over winier.
Less vigorous cuhivars with more
twiggy growth roo1 1norc readily from
hardwood cu11ings. Hardwood cuuings
(see p.99) are also less prone lo basal
stem ro1. The)' can be iaken in one or
two lengths: S-1 Oin (20-25cm) or
4in (10cm) (sec below). Root in a
fros1-free, humid environment or, in
mild areas, outdoors. The young plants
should be large c11ough by the following
autumn 10 lift and replant in the
garden. ll Lakes 2-3 )'Cars 10 obtain
a flowering plant.
if--
HAROWOOO CUTTINGS
If nuunicll is limilt·d, tal:t~ slwrrer 4in 00cm)
cutlings. 1Hm lcm,t·s off th<· Jow('I' lwlf <"if ca<h
sh·m. In a p<'tU nntl l>,,rl: mix, cuttings 1oot
in 6-10 wcehs.
OTHER SHRUBS ANO CLIMBING PLANTS
D1.c,11,..,,r~, Sow seeds in autumn
(seep. I OJ) l-
Dt"DRO\ltco,i Rom softwood
cunings (see p.100) in free-
draining medium U,
Dc,ro·HAINIA Take semi~ripe
cunings (sec p.95) from
midsummer 10 autumn: bouom
hca1 is not essential 1.
DtL TZI,\ Propaga1e as for
P/11ladclpl1us (see p. 136) l,
DtLR\'ILLA Take softwood 10
semi-ripe c ullings (see
pp. I00-0 I and 95) , .
OIPELrA Root greenwood 10
semi-ripe cuuings (see /JI'· JOJ
mul 95) ,. Sow seeds in spring
(sec p.104) l,
D1SANn1us Take softwood
eullings as for Hamamelis (sec
,,. IJO): overwintering rooted
cunings can be difficuh '"·
DAPHNE - X F ATSHEDERA
E UONYMUS BURNING BUSH, SPINDLE TREE
from SoFlWOOO OR SEMI- RIPE CUfflNGS from lalc spring
10 late summer 6 on 1he foliage, so select onl)' heahhy
GREENWOOD Cl/TTINGS in late spring U material. Since rooting can take up 10
HARDWOOD CUTTINGS from autumn 10 late Wllll('T J Len weeks, Lake greenwood cuuings (see
Seeos in autumn 1 p.1 OJ) of E. alaws as earl)' as possible and
GRAFTING in late wfoter ! from a shrub 1ha1 still produces vigorous
new growth each )'Car. Hormone rooting
This genus includes deciduous and compound is benei'icial. Root hardwood
evergreen shrubs and cli,nbers 1ha1 cuuings (see pp.98-9) or E. japonicus and
root readily from cullings. Greenwood its cultivars in a rros1-free, humid place.
cuuings are best for Euonymus alatus; Plant ou1 rooted cu11ings in autu,nn.
hardwood cuui ngs for E. japonicus and
ils cultivars. Deciduous species can be SEEDS
raised from seeds. New plants mature in Seeds harvested rrom ripe fruits (see
three )'Cars. Wear gloves when handling below) and sown fresh in autumn should
E. europaeus and other species that germinate in the following spring after a
irritate the skin. period of chilling (see pp.103-4).
CUTTINGS GRAFTING
Softwood or semi-ripe cuuings (see Use seedlings roo1s1ocks of E. europacus
pp.JOO and 95), 2-4in (5-lOcm) long, 10 spliced side graft (see p.58) i1s
root within four weeks. Lear drop can cultivars. Whip-and-tongue graft (see
occur if material has powdery mildew p.59) E. fortunei cuhivars for a standard.
E UONYM US SEE OS
Tl,esc slrn,bs l"'"c
"''Y colorful /rui1s
Foh<1gc Ill/II s1,li1 open 10
jus1 abo\;t' reveal 1/ieir seeds in
medium auumm. To collec,
1he blood-red seeds
of this Euonymus
Six cuu111gs hamiltonianus subsp.
to 6111 sicboldianus, 1ie a
(15c1t1) ,,01 ,x1pcr lH1g over a sitm
before 1hr car>sulcs
sl'lir. RemoH· die
fleshy. o, cmgc outer
seed emus (arils)
'1ljore sow111g.
Simple layer (sec ,,. 106) lU, greenwood cuuings (srr p. JOJ) Seeds in spring (sec p. I04) l,
DRIM" Root softwood 10 scmi- in early summer. or root cuttings ELPHORBIA Root greenwood
ri1>e cunings (sec pp.100--01 and as for Cdasrn,s (sec p.122) ,. stem-tip cuuings (sec p.101) in
95) 1. Older plams may self-layer Divide suckers in late winier (see rrcc-draining medium with genlle
(see p.107) l- p.101) l- Sow seeds in amumn or bouom heat in summer U , Seeds
0RYA"l0RA Root softwood spring (sec pp.103-4) , . in spri ng (see p.104)u.
cu11i11gs (see p. 100) in summer Eu,t10LTZIA Root softwood E VRYOPS Root softwood 10 semi-
1U. Sow seeds 2-3 to a pot in cunings (see p.100) ripe cuttings from spring 10
spring (see p. 104) at 64°F in spring,. Cover au1umn as for Ca,yopieris (sec
( 18°C): some need smoke with plastic, but p.121) ,. Sow seeds in
1rca1ment (sec p.103) l- avoid getting 100 spring (see p.101) a,
Eco:u ,10(.ARPUS Sow seeds in humid. Bonom s0-ss°F 00-13•c) ,.
spring (see p. 104) at 50-59°F heat is not needed. ExocHORDA Sof1 wood
( I0-15°C) ,. Seeds of E. scabe,· EPIGACA Root cuttings in spring as
need light to germ inate. g reenwood cuttings for Syringa (sec p. 142) ,.
EOGtWORTI I IA Root greenwood (see p.101) in summer Seeds (p.103) in autumn l-
and semi-ripe nodal stem~1ip without bottom heal *· FALLOPIA Sec Polygo11um
cunings (see /J/>. 101 and 95) in Separate rooted la)'ers (sec (p.138).
swnmcr in free-draining p.107) in spring or a utumn,. x FAT>HfDERA Take cunings as
medium U. Split bouom ¾-lin ERICA Sec pp.110-11. for nee/era (see I'· 1JO) ,.
( 1-2cm) of stem. ELPATORIUM Softwood cuttings
E1 I UTIILROCOCCUS Take as for Olearia (sec p.1.35) ,. DRYANDRA QUF.RCIFOLIA
127
A-Z OF SHRUBS AND CL LM BING PLANTS
FATSIA
CUTTINGS many time 1
Seeos in autumn or !>l>nng ~
The on ly commonly grown species is
the evergreen shrub, Fatsia japo11ica
(S)'n . Aralia japonica). Cuhivars must
be increased from cullings, wh ich are
awkward because of their size, but the
species is more easily raised from seeds.
Prepare semi-ripe cuuings as shown
(see right); if necessary, reduce the
foliage. Treal as standard cuttings
(see p.95); bouom heal of 59-68°F
(15- 20°C) aids rooting.
Sow seeds, extracted in late autumn
from ripe black fruits, in pols and
cover with vermiculite (see p. 104).
Germ ination takes 10-20 days at
59- 68°F (15-20°C). Plant out after two
years for sizeable plants in three years.
FORSYTHIA
SoFTWOOO OR GREENWOOD
CUTTINGS fro1n spring 10
midsummer ,
SEMI-RIPE CUTTINGS from
mid~ummer to early au1unul: 1
HAAOWOOO CUTTINGS from
l:nc autumn to early spring •
SEEDS in early spri ng 1 semi-evergreen sh rubs (syn. Fremontia )
LAYERING i n spring or
ForsJtltie1
:.mwmn1
'Non hem Gold·
These deciduous shrubs are some of the
easiest lo root as cuuings. The sprawling
Forsythia suspensa self layers in the wild ,
so layering works well for the species
and cultivars . Seeds also germinate
readily. New plants take 18-36 mon ths
10 reach Oowering size.
CUTTINGS
Softwood or greenwood nodal stem-tip
and stem cuttings in rooting 1nediu1n
(see pp.100-01) root in 2-4 weeks.
Reduce the foliage by up to a half on
longer-leaved cultivars. Rooting directly
in pots (see p.96) and in a sun tunnel
(see p.39) are suitable options.
Take semi-ripe cuttings (see p.95) ,
about 4in (10cm) long if they are 10 be
kept over winter in a cold frame.
Leave hardwood cuuings (see p.98)
undisturbed un til the following autumn;
in colder areas, they root more quickly
in a cold frame or frost-free greenhouse
with bouo,n heat or 54-68°F (12-20°C).
SEEDS
Seeds require about four weeks of
chilling ( see p.103) ; in cooler areas, they
genn inate readily in the sa1ne spring if
sown in containers in a cold frame.
LAYERING
Use si,nple layering (see p.106) or self-
layering (see p.107) lO produce new
plants; layers root in 6-12 months.
128
FREMONTODEN DRON
F LANNEL BUSH
SEMI-RIPE CUTilNGS 1n late summer Ul
HAADWOOO CUTTINGS rrom hue autumn 10
winter U
S EEDS in spring 1
Taking cuuings of these evergreen or
and their cultivars is challenging,
but success is possible. Both species
gern1inale readily fron1 seeds.
New plants reach Oowering size
in 12 months.
CUTTINGS
Take 3-4in (8-lOcm), nodal stem-tip
semi-ripe cuttings (see pp. I 01 a nd 95);
retain the growing tip and only one other
leaf. Use hormone rooting compound
and a free-draining medium; rockwool
plugs are an excellent alternative. Place
in a heated closed case or under opaque
plastic with bo110111 heal of 54-68°F
(12-20°C). Regular fungicidal sprays,
and 1nedium kept on the dry side,
will protect against botrytis. hucrnodal
stem cuuings (see p.94) will root, but
less successfully.
Hardwood cuuings (see p.98) will
root in a frost-free place, but, for almost
guaranteed success, take nodal stem-tip
cullings as above , but from fully ripened
wood, and insert in rockwool plugs.
A vigorous root system shou ld develop
in 4-6 weeks. Transplant into 3'/2in
(9cm) pots immediately after roots
are visible.
SEEDS
Sow seeds gathered from dry capsules
directly into 3'/2in (9cm) pols ( see p.96)
to avoid root disturbance. Viable seeds
germinate in 30 days with bouom heat
of 59-68°F (15-20°C). Water seedlings
sparingly at first 10 control damping off.
Select<~ y oung, vigorous. semi-ri pe
shoot (here of Fatsia j apo nica).
Remove 1hr ro113-4in (8- IOcm) ,
or 3-5 nodes, of llw stem lly c1111i11g
jusr below n noel(' wirh d eem, slwrp
,,runcrs. Rcmo"e all but the top two
leaves an<l du: growing Iii'; trim off
the lc,wer kaves ar d,e base (see
inset). lnscn the cuuing so rhm
only the bouom notles c,re buried.
F UCHSIA
SOFTWOOD CUTT1NGS at an)'
ume !
S EMI-RIPE CUTilNGS from
1:-uc
midsummer 10 earl)'
3Ull\,lllll'
H AAOWOOO CUTTINGS from
late autumn to late winter •
S EEDS in late winter !
F11cl,s,a !1 is ahnost impossible
·Garden New, for cuuings of the
deciduous and evergreen shrubs and
climbers in this genus to fai l. Fuchsias
can suffer from a range of pests and
diseases when grown under cover, so
take cuttings fro,n clean , healthy plants
only. Raising plants from seeds is an
alternative for species fuchsias. New
plants Oower very quickly, usually the
following year.
CUTTINGS
\'lith softwood cuuings (see right a11d
p.100), rooting is almost guaranteed.
Nodal s1em-1ip, single-node, and
internodal stem cullings all root with in
10-20 days. You can also root them in
Oorist's foam (see right) or rockwool.
With semi-ripe cuuings (see p.95), the
secret lO producing a good specimen is
lo pinch oul new growth 10 a pair of
leaves just above the last break of buds.
Hardwood cullings (see p.98) of the
vigorous f magellanica and its cuhivars
root quickly. They can usual!)' be lifted
in spring. In cold areas, place the
cuuings in a frost-free place.
SEEDS
Seeds gathered from Oeshy fruits and
sown in spring and covered with
vermiculite (see pp.103-4) should
germinate al 68°F (20°C) in three
weeks. Growth at first is slow, but if
sianed early and grown on in warmth
the sh rub will Oowcr in its first year.

G ARDENIA
GREENWOOD AND SEMl•RIPE
CUTTINGS at any time'
SEEDS al :my time J
The shrubby species
in this evergreen genus
are easily raised from
green- and semi-ripe
Ganle11ia wood (see pp. l O1 and
augusw 'Veilchir 95) , taken as nodal
stem-lip cuttings. Cuttings resent roo1
disturbance so are bes1 rooted singly
in cell 1rays or pots. They roo1 in 6-8
weeks if kept humid wi1h bouom hea1
of 68-77°F (20-25°C) and nower in
12-18 months.
Seeds germinate readily if sown
fresh (see pp. I 03-4) and provided wi1h
bouom hea1 of 59-68°F (l5-20°C). New
plants take up 10 seven years 10 nower.
SOFTWOOD CUTTINGS
To tal:e interno<lal stem cuuings.
llivi<lt a shoot imo sections, each
with about ½i11 (1cm) of Siem
above a11d below one
se1 of leaves. These
can also be splir
vertically ro creme more
c1111ings. Pind, ou1 I i11(2.5cm)
long growing lips for nodal STEM
stem-tip currings. CUTTING
FUC HSIA CUTT I NGS IN FLO RIST'S FOAM
Cur a blocl, of florists foam i1110 I in (2.5cm)
1 cubes. Soal, the cubes in a bowl of wnier for
10-15 minutes, then pface them in a saucer or
1ray. Use a lmirri11g needle to mal,e a ¼in (I cm)
deep hole in die ce111er of eacJ, cube. Prcpa,·e
some s1em-1ip curtings of fuchsia (sec above).
Add waler 10 the saucer to a dep1h of ½f11
3 (lc,11). Label and place die curri11gs under
a plastic bag, or cover, i11 bright indirect light
at about 59°F (15°C) u111il roo1ecl (see inset).
fATSIA - H ALIMODENDRON
G ENISTA BROOM plan1s producing vigorous growth each
season. Take 2-2¾in (5-7cm) cuuings a1
SOFTWOOD OR GREENWOOD CUTTINGS Ill early
lO ll)jd,;ummtr 1 the poin1 al which 1he growth begins to
SEMl·RIPE CUTTINGS in midsummer U firm and the new foliage narrows. Apply
HARDWOOD CUTTINGS Crom au1t11nn lO nHCl\\mtcr U hormone rooting compound and insen
Seeos in spnng i in free-draining mediu1n. Keep humid
wi1h bo1101n hea1 of 59°F (15°C).
These deciduous 10 evergreen shrubs Hardwood cuuings (see p.98), 2'/.-4in
(syn. Cliamaespartium , Echinosparriwn) (7-lOcm) long of G. lydia, if iaken from
nower in thei r firs! or second year, well- ripened wood 10 avoid ro1, roo1
depending on the cuhivar. Genista well in rockwool plugs. Heel cuuings
hispa11ica is panicularly successful (see p.96) can be sl ightly less ma1ure.
from seeds. Trea1 them as for semi-ripe cuuings;
roo1ing takes 8-12 weeks.
CUTTINGS
Sof1wood and greenwood nodal stem-1ip S EEDS
cuttings (see pp.100-01) of G. tinctoria Ga1her seeds from pealike pods. Scarify
and its cuhivars root in 2-4 weeks. the hard seed coats b)' sa ndpapering
Semi-ripe cuttings (see p.95) 1aken them and soaking in ho1 water (see
from G. hispanica roo1 reasonably well p.102) before sowing in spring. Seeds
when ma1erial is selected from young should 1hen germinate in 2-3 weeks.
Sum split Pinch out
vcnic,1lly OTHER SHRUBS ANO CLIMBING PLANTS
growing tip
Frcvs Take greenwood 10 semi-ripe
cuumgs at any Lime as for Hoya (see p.131)
l- Air layer an)•time (see p. I 05) ,.
FORTUNELLA Root semi-ripe cuuings in
summer (see p.95) with bo11om heat l, Sow
seeds in spring (see p.104) l·
FOTHl:RGII LA Take sorlwood cuttings in
SPLIT STEM STEM-TIP earl)r summer as for l-lanwmclis (sec
CUTTING CUTTI NG p. 130) u.Simple larer (see p. 106) U,
GARRVA Take semi-ripe cuttings (see p.95)
in summer and again in late autumn. Root
in frce·draining medium or in rockwool as
for F1·e11w11tode11ilro11 (sec p.128) Ul,
GAVLTii~RIA (syn. x G<111l11ruyc,, Pernertyc,)
Take semi-ripe cuuings in autumn as for
u.
Ce111w1/11rs (see p. 121 ) Divide suckers
(see p.101) in spring and autumn u.
Sow
seeds as for Rl,oilode11dro11 (see p.138) l-
GEVUINA Semi-ripe cuttings as for oremin
(see p.135) ,. Seeds in autumn ( p. 104) l-
GRArTOPliYLLUM Semi-ripe cu11ings (see
p.95) in spring or summer 1, Sow seeds in
spring (see /J. 104) at 66-75°F (19-24°C) ,.
Insert a cutting into each cube, tailing care
2 no, to crush 1he stems. Each cuuing slioulit
Simple layer (sec p.106) in summer,.
GRt\'ILLLI Heel cu11ings (see /J.96) from
sit wirh the leaves just abo,1e the su,face and rhc la te summer to late winter l, Seeds (sec
base in contact with the borrom of the hole. If p.103) fresh, or soaked at 59°F ( 15°C) in
tlie hole is roo sliallow. deepen ii with 1he spring U, \Vhip graft (see ,,. I 09) to avoid
lmiuing needle - do nor push in the. culling. rot, for early Oower o r weeping plant u.
GR1SEt.1NtA Take semi-ripe and hardwood
G~·111lyfinn
\Vhen l11eir roots cunings as for Pnmus laurocerasus (see
4 slrow through
jlorisrs foam.
11,c
soil mix
p.138) ,. Seeds (see p.104) in autumn,.
GYNURA Take softwood cu11ings in spring
poi Iii< cuui11gs or semi-ripe in aummn (see pp. I 00 and
singly inro Jin 95) , . Use free-draining medium and
(8c,11) pots of soifless bo11om hear of 68-77°F (20-25°C).
pouing mix. Cover the HALIMIUM As for Cistus (see p.122) ,.
fom11 wirlr ¼in (5mm) HAUMOOENORON Take root cuttings in
of mix ro stop 11,e winter as for Celas1rns (see p.122) U, Sow
roors from d1yi11g out. seeds in spring (see p. 104) in a frost-free
(If exposed, 1he foam place U. ~ 'hip-and-tongue grafr (seep. I 08)
acts as a wick. drawing
moisture away from
onto Caragana arboresccns rooLStock in
late winrer U,
the roots.)
129
A-Z OF SHRUBS ANO CLIMBING PLANTS

H AMAMELIS WITCH HAZEL H EBE

CllTTINGS in s1>ring H
SEEDS in m.uumn U SEMl•RIPE CUTTINGS from midsummer to late
LAYERING in spring'
GRAFTING in late summer U
Softwood cuuings of these deciduous
shrubs usuall)' overwinter badly: take
early nodal s1e1n-1ip cuuings (see
pp.100-01) as soon as n ew growth is
2'/.-4in (7-lOcm) long. Bouom heat
of 54-68°F (l 2-20°C) and hormone
rooting compound s peed rooting, in
6-8 weeks. Keep cuttings just moist
and frost-free over winter.
Place ripe seed capsules in a covered
tray: 1hcy ex plode lo release seeds. The
seeds are doubly dorman1. Provide three
months' warm, then three mon1hs' cold,
stratification (see p.103); or, in cold
climates, sow fresh seeds and overwinter
them in a co ld frame (see p.103) . Simple
layer (see p.106) suitable shoots·.
Spliced-side graft (see p.58) cu ltivars
onto two-yea r-old , pot-grown seedling
roo1s1ocks of Hamamelis virginiana, as
low as possi ble lo avoid suckers. Pot
two-year-old H. virgi11ia11a seedlings in
early spring as s tocks for chip-budding
(see below cmd p.60) and keep watered
and in active growth . Transplant in the
following autumn 10 flower in 4-5 years.
CHIP BUDDING
Talu· bulls of similar ripeness as 011 lhe
1 romsrocll; in cold 1·cgio11s, rhese will be m
the bas.- of tl,e buclsiich (here of Hamamelis x
imcrmedia '.Moonlight'). Prepare buds with a
1/.i11 (2.5mm) stall, w,d J ¼i11 (3cm) of bad,.
Sonwooo CUTTINGS from la1e spring to :,utumn
:mwmn 1
These evergreen sh rubs include some
small alpine forms. All root well from
cuttings, bu1 semi-ripe material is beuer
for many of the smaller-leaved species
and cuhivars.
Softwood cuuings (see below and
pp.100-01) root in 3-4 weeks. Use of
mist systems or hormone rooting
Sorr,vooo HEBE CUTTINGS
Hcbcs ,•my witlely in si~c from <lw<uf io forge
shrubs. Tnhe nodal sr<·nHip cuuings tluu are
2- Jin (5-8cm) long wit/,
1-2 pairs of lecwrs.
HEBE
'RED EDGE·
ll f:61: IIEBf:
' \VIRI l)A\VN' HULKEAN!\
H EDERA I vv
50FTWOOO CUTTINGS al ~111)' 1i mc l Longer so[1wood cuuings of small-leaved
S EMl~RIPE OR HARDWOOO CUTTINGS from late
summcl' to late winier l
LAYERING at tmy lime l
GRAFTING at :my time l
Stems of 1hese evergreen cl imbers and
trailing shrubs root readily in the wi ld
and so are simple 10 grow from cuuings
or by layering. Smaller-leaved species
and cultivars may be grafted onto tree
ivy (x Fatsli edera lizei) lo create a
s tandard plant.
CUTTINGS
Take single-noded softwood cuuings,
leaf-bud, or h ardwood cuuings (sec
pp.97-1 00) from young stems for trailing
p lanLS or adult growth for bushy p lants.
TO P-WO RKING TO CREATE A STANDARD IVY
1
compound can cause c uuings 10 rot.
Hcbes ca n s uffe r from downy m ildew
and a leafspol disease; 10 avoid this, pol
cuuings as soon as rooted, overwinter in
a well -ventilated, frost-free environ ment,
and water sparingly. Plant out in spring.
Take semi-ripe cuuings (see p.95)
from species s uch as H. pimeleoides and
H. ralwiensis. H. pinguifolia cu uings may
rot at the base then root al the medium
surface. New p lan ts flower in two )'Cars.
llf6E
·MIDSUMM ER
BEAUTY'
HEllE NEBE
OCHRACEA ·GREAT OR~1E·
Hedera helix cuhivars ensure s trong
g rowth. Root 2-3 cuuings direct in a
3'/2in (9cm) pot (sec p.96) and keep cool
10 avoid pre mature shooting. Roo ting
takes 4-8 weeks. Cuttings scorc h easily.
LAYERING
Dig up self-layers of H. l1elix and
N. ltiben,ica, and serpen tin e layer
H . colcliica and its cuhivars (see p.107).
GRAFTING
Apical wedge-graft (see p.108) or T-bud
(see below) three scions onto 1hc
roo1s1ock. T-budding is best done when
the scion p lan t is in [ull g rowth. For a
full head, pinch back new growth.

Prepare a rootstoc/1 (here ofH. virgi niana) Prepare ax Fatshedcra

2 and posirio11 the bud. If 11eeded. align rl,e
bud IO 11,e side of the cut 011 tl,e stock (see
inset) so lite cambiums meet. Bind the bud in
place. Keep i11 l1u111id shade with 6S°F (20°C)
bottom hem. Tlie bud should whc in '1-6 weel1s.
1 lizei rootstocli: mal:e three
stagge~d T-cuts around rhc
Siem, 3ft (90cm) from 11,e
l"1se. Loosen the flaps of bar/,
with the bac/1 of a lmifc blade.
2
As you mnltc each T-cut,
slice a bud (sec inset)
from a budstic/1 tal1e11 from
ripe wood of the Hcdcra. S/icle
rite bud into the cut so it fits
s1111gly; trim off the ",ail.··
3
Bind the grafted w-.-a witli
grafting wpe. Keet> in
humid shade 111uH the wounds
callus (4-6 wee/is). four weel,s
af1cr they ral,c, cur f}{1cli rhe
stem to jusr <1bo"e 1l1e g.-afts.

130

H IBISCUS
SOFTWOOO OR SEMl·Rl~E
CUTTINGS from earl)' lO lrilc
summer~
HARDWOOD CUTTINGS (rom
tue :mtumn 10 midwinter U
SEEDS m s pnng i
LAYERING in spring and
summer,
GRAFTING Ill winlCI''
Hibiscus
'Diana'
S)•riOCIIS Most or the deciduous
and evergreen shrubs in this genus,
such as Hibiscus rosa-si11e11sis and
H. syriac11s and their cuhivars, root
readily from cuuings. Hardwood
cuttings are easy to Lake when pruning
evergreen Hibiscus. Less easily rooted
cultivars may be layered. Seedl ings or
H. syriacus vary, so they are used mostly
as roolslocks. Grafrs take readily and
in favorable conditions grow quickly
enough LO be planted out the following
autumn or spring. Plants may take three
years lo nower.
CUTTINGS
Take siandard sofrwood stem-tip or
semi-ripe c uuings (see pp.100-01 and
95). Bottom heal or 54-68°F (l2-20°C)
and hormone rooting co1npound
improves success. Pol early cuttings
into 3'/2in (9cm) pots; leave those rooted
from midsummer undisturbed over
winter. Hardwood cuttings (see p.98) or
H. syriacus retain the leading bud and
root well ir frost-free and in deep pots.
SEEDS
Gather seeds rrom large , dry capsules.
Spring-sown seeds (seep. 104) germinate
readily. Sow H. syriacus in a seedbed ror
rootstocks the rollo,ving autumn.
LAYERING
Air layers (see p.105) or H. rosa-sinensis
cuhivars should root in 6-8 weeks.
GRAFTING
Use scion material up to two years o ld,
and apical-wedge grafr (see p.108) onto
the stock at the union between root and
stem. Pot successru l grarLS into 5 '/2-7in
(14-19cm) pots and grow on in a
frost-free p lace.
H OYA WAX FLO\VER
CUTTINGS al :my time l place,. New plants need plenty of light.
LAYERING -.u 311)' time !
Planis in this large genus or evergreen
shrubby climbers can be increased by
nodal, semi-ripe cuttings (see p.95) , Jin
(8cm) long, which will root in 6-8
weeks at 68°F (20°C).The long lengths
of stem are suiiable for shnple layering
(see p.106) , from pot to pot if necessary.
Hoyas may nower qu ickly, or not for
several years.
H YDRANGEA
SOFTWOOD CUTTINGS from l;uc spnng lo
nndsummer i
SEMI-RIPE CUTTINGS in midsummer!
HAADWOOO CUTilNGS in winter.
SEEDS 111 spnng 1
LAYERING in spring'
Most of the deciduous and evergreen
shrubs and climbers root readily from
a lmost any cutting. Exceptions arc
climbing Hydrangea anomala subsp.
/JeLiolaris, which layers easily, and
H. quercifolia, which will freel)' germinate
from seeds. Some hydrangeas will reach
nowering size in their second year.
C UTTINGS
For 1nost hydrangeas, length determines
the type of softwood cutting (see
pp.JOO-OJ ) since the space between
nodes varies, but any culling rooLS in
2-4 weeks. Pinch out new growth to
avoid leggy planLS. H. quercifolia and
a,iomala subsp. peLio!aris need care: take
2-4in (5-lOcm) nodal stem-tip cuttings;
retain only the immature tip. Reduce
foliage on H. quercifolia by up to a half.
SERPENTINE LAYERING A CLIMB ING HYDRANGEA
Selecr a J,eahhy shoot 1har is clevclopi11g
1 tlcrial roots (J1erc of 1lydrangea anomala
subsp. petiolaris) from Jast years growth. Mix
eq11t1I pans pem and g, it into the soil.
O THER SHRUBS AND CLIMBING PLANTS
HARDEJ<RERGIA Roo1 sof,. and greenwood
cuttings (see pp.100-01) in summer without
bouorn heal!, Take semi-ripe cuuings in
summer or autumn (see p.95) l- Sow seeds
as for Clianthus (see p. 124) l-
llEUANTMEMUM Root greenwood CUI lings in
summer and autumn (see p. 101) l-Sow
seeds in spring (set p. 104) in a rrost-frcc
I IEUCl-lRYSUM Rool soflwood 10 semi-ripe
cu uings (see pp.100-01 m,d 95) at all)' time;
avoid gcuing them too wcl i. Sow seeds in
spring (see p. I04) l-
H ELIOTkOPIUM Greenwood cuttings in
summer (11.JOJ) , . Semi-ripe cuuings in
summer (p.95) l- Seeds in spring (11.104) l-
HIBRERTIA Root greenwood and semi-ripe
cuuings as for Olearia (see p.135) ,.
H AMAMELIS - H YDRANGEA
SPLIT-STEM
Cll l rlNC
u~c clean,
(I
slwrp lmifc or ti
scall'cl w S/!lit 1hr
Slt'mS of sof1wmul tmcl
semi-,iJh.~nwings
Oonoi
k11gd1wisc ro doul>Jc die 1n111 !row·~
cmwwlt of c1111111gs wl:en.
Apply hormone rooting compound .
Rooting can take up to 12 weeks. Root
semi-ripe (sec p.95) and hardwood
cuuings (see p.98), which are good
for H. Villosa (syn. H. aspera Villosa
Group) and iis cuhivars (because the
hairy leaves and stems arc susceptible
to rot), in a frost-free place.
SEEDS
Sow seeds, extracted front dry capsules,
in containers (see p.104); cover lightly;
keep cool and humid at 50°F (10°C).
LAYERING
Use serpentine layering (see below and
p.107). Rooted layers should be ready
to transplant within a year.
Peg clown llS much of th,· stem <IS 1>0ssibfc,
2 a(-rial r<>OlS downwmd. Lighdy bw) ' crbouc
6in (15cm) of the stem. Keep tl,c lnye,. moist
wuH nt'w slioots appear: llfJ 10 a vrcff latet:
H1l'POt'HAt Greenwood cuttings (see p.101)
in rrcc-draining medium u. Rool cuttings as
for Celt1s1 ms (see 11.122) u. Sow fresh seeds
outdoors in aull11nn (see p.103) U,
liot-tcRIA Root greenwood and scmi .. ripe
cuttings (see pp. 101 and 95) in summer and
autumn in free-draining medium 1-Sow
seeds in autumn (see p.104) l-
HOLODLSCUS Greenwood cutLings (see,,. IO I)
in summer,. Seeds in autumn (see ,,.103) l ,
Simple layer spring to summer (see p.106) l-
HovEA Root greenwood to s,emi-ripe
cutLings as for 0/ea,-ia (seep. 135) l-Sow
s,eeds as for Clia111l111s (sec,,. J24) , .
HUMULUS Leaf-bud cu1tings (p.97) in spii ng
to early summer l- Golden forms may
scorch; latc-roo1ed cuuings overwinter
badly. Scrpen1ine layer in spring (p.107) l-
131
A-2 OF SHRUBS AND CLIMBING PLANTS
H YPERICUM
-~ '-~
• "'- . ·--._
.
.. ., ,.-{
.- ' ...
.;·.
-
_._,.
.
-
. late amumn lO midwinter,
;' '-':
.> .. . "·
-: . .. ~-
.'
Hy periwm The deciduous and
'""cas,eri evergreen shrubs in this
genus are easily raised from cutti ngs or
seeds lO flower in 2-3 years; hardwood
cuttings are best for taller shrubs.
H. calycinum spreads by runners and
can be divided.
CUTTINGS
Softwood and semi-ripe stem cuuings
(see pp.JOO and 95), about 2in (5cm)
long, with 1-2 pairs of leaves, normally
root in 3-6 weeks. For best results,
select nonflowering shoots. With
softwood cuttings,. be careful not lo
j ASMINUM JASMINE
. .' ·,
:·· r. .
, \ '
- \
· - -~ ' "
These deciduous and
I
)"sminum evergreen shrubs and
a11g11lare climbers are relatively
easily increased by cuttings; cuuings
of jasminum officinale and]. nudiflorum
are best from hardwood . Layering is
an option, especially for species that
produce aerial roots along the stems.
It usually takes three years to obtain
a good-sized flowering plant.
CUTTINGS
Softwood and semi-ripe cunings
(see pp.100 and 95) can be intemodal
to reduce lhe length of the cuuings.
Remove pan of the compound leaf to
reduce the risk of botrytis. Hormone
rooting compound aids rooting, which
usually takes aboul four weeks. Cuttings
rooled early with sturdy lopgrowth are
likely to overwinter beuer in cooler
climates. Always take a few extra
cuuings to avoid disappointment.
Take standard hardwood cutlings
(see pp.98-9). In cold areas, root in a
sheltered place such as in a cold frame
or in deep pots lefl over winter in a
frost-free greenhouse.
LAYERING
Select shoots wilh roots forming along
their lenglh and simple layer lhem (see
p.106). A good rOOl system should form
within 12 months. Then sever from the
parent plant and pot up or plant oul.
132
ST.JOHN'S WORT
SOFTWOOD OR SEMl· RIPE
CUTTINGS from 13le spring lO
damage the stein when removing the
early auwmn,
HARDWOOD CUTTINGS from
lower leaves. Direct rooting in pots (see
p.96) is an option. For smaller species,
such as Hypericum olympicum, cuuings
DIVISIONin s pring . may only be Y-l Y.in (2-3cm) in length .
Seeos in au1umn or spring, If only a few plants are needed, root
hardwood cuttings (see p.98) in deep
pots; otherwise, root in a sheltered place
such as a cold frame or under a sun
tunnel (see p.39).
DIVISION
Lift clumps of H. calycinum (see p.101)
and replant or pot rooted pieces. This
is best done before the new season's
growth begins.
SEEDS
Gather seeds from ripe capsules and sow
in autumn in cool climates or in early
spring (see p.104); lightly cover with
vermiculite. Keep frost-free.
KALMIA MOUNTAIN LAUREL
SoFTWOOO OR SEMI- RIPE GREENWOOD CUTTINGS in summer ,u
CUTTINGS in spring and HARDWOOD CUTTINGS in midwinte r ,u
summer! Seeos in wimer LO early spring Ul
HARDWOOD CUTTINGS in LAYERING in spring'
winter J.
LAYERING in Spring J Cuttings of these evergreen shrubs can
be challenging and, although seeds
germinate readil)', seedlings need care.
Layering is the most reliable option.
New plants take up to five years to
flower well.
CUTTINGS
Wound greenwood cuuings (see p.101)
on both sides of the stem, then treat as
rhododendrons (see p.138). Rooling is
slow. Try hardwood cuttings (see p.98).
SEEDS
Surface-sow seeds as for rhododendrons
(see p.138). Seedlings require shade and
a low-nutrient soil mix because they
become scorched easily.
LAYERING
Siinple layering (see p. l 06) produces
rooted plants in 12 1nonths and plants
for lhe garden in another two years.
K OLKWITZIA BEAUTY BUSH
SoFTWOOO ANO GREENWOOD CUTTINGS in
spring or early summer I
Kolhwitzia amabilis, a deciduous shrub,
roots easily from cuni ngs to nower in
three years. Treat the cuuings as for
Philadelphus (see p.136). Avoid water
shoots, and make the cuuings at least
three nodes in length to increase the
number of new shoots and improve
success in overwintering.
L APAGERIA
CHILEAN BELLFLOWER
Seeos in s pring I
LAYERING in spl'iog aod autumn I
The best way to propagate this single
species of evergreen cli1nber, Lapageria
rosea and its cultivars, is by layering.
Shoots can be either simple or
serpentine layered (see pp.106-7). Semi-
ripe or basal cuuings arc sometimes
recom1nended, but where marginally
hardy they are very reluctant to root
and , if lhey do, rarely grow successfully,
even in wann climates.
Soak the seeds for 48 hours prior to
sowing individually into 3in (8cm) pots
(see pp.lOJ-4). Cover with ½in (1cm)
of vermiculite and genninate at 59-68°F
(15-20°C). New plants take 2-3 years lO
reach nowering size.
L AVANDULA LAVENDER
SoFTWOOO OR SEMI- RIPE CUTTINGS from early
summer to autumn 11
HARDWOOD CUTTINGS from late .uuumn to late
wi1ucr U
SEEDS in spring
LAYERING
U
in spring'
Often , these evergreen shrubs and
subsh rubs are so full of flower after
the first one or two years that there is
insufficient suiLable new growth for
cuuings, which often readily succumb
to botrytis. Seed-raised species and
cultivars are of variable habit and flower
color. Layering is an option for older,
leggy plants that are slow to produce
new growth.
CUTTINGS
Take 2'/2-Jin (6-Scm) softwood or semi-
ripe cuttings (see pp.100 and 95) from
young plants in early to 1nidsum1ner,
trim below a node, and strip off the
bouom 1Y.in (3cm) of foliage. Apply
hormone rooting compound and insert
in free-draining mediu1n. Early-summer
lalc

LAVATERA MALLOW
SOFTWOOD OR GREENWOOD CUTTINGS from Spnng
10 autumn t
Although il is possible lo root cuttings
of the deciduous and evergreen shrubs
and subshrubs in this genus throughout
the year, those taken before Oowcr buds
form from soft- and greenwood root
most quickly and surely.
The length between nodes can be
quite great, and mallows will root from
internodal cuuings, so take cuuings
(see pp.100-1) al a set length of 2Y,-3in
(6--Scm), regardless of whether it means
trimm ing above or below a node. This
will ensure that the new plants are not
leggy. Rooting takes 2-4 weeks. Mallow
are also prime candidates for rooting
directly in pots (see p.96). New plan ls
Oower in 1-2 years.
cuttings root reasonably under mist or
unheated opaque plastic. Air cuttings
regularly and spray with fungicide.
Rooting takes 4-8 weeks. Take semi-ripe
cuttings with a heel (see p.96) and root
in a frost-free place.
Hardwood cuttings are taken as for
semi-ripe cuttings. but after Oowering
and preferably from new Oushes of
growth ( see below). ln winter, they may
take three months to root. Keep frost-
free 10 prevent premature shooting. If
this occurs, pinch new growth back to
just above the original cutting to prevent
rot or aphid attack.
SEEDS
Sow the seeds, gathered fro,n dry
seedheads, after four weeks of cold
stratil:cation (see pp.103-4).
LAYERING
Use meunding (see p.290) to obtain good-
sized plants by the next spring. Plant
them quite deeply to avoid legginess.
C UTTING BACK
FLOWfoRINC SHOOTS
OF LAVENDER
I Itirdwood t:uuings
of lal'entler arc bes,
ralten jl'OUI IICW
flushes of growth after
blooming. Encourage
fo rmation of new
shoots by lrinuning
off all 1/1e jloweri11g
stems as il1eir color
fades. Tiil:c care 1101
to cur baclt rhc shrnb
too hard. be<ousc
fove,ulers do not Jnw1h
reaclily f mm oltl wood.
H YPERICUM - L lTHODORA
L IGUSTRUM PRI VET
SoFTWOOO OR SEMl~RIPE CUTTINGS from early
lo midsummel' I
Rool hardwood cuttings (see pp.98-9)
HARDWOOD CUTTINGS from late aulumn LO either in open ground or in a frost-free
midwinter , place. Do not worry if foliage drops; new
S EEDS in l:ue autumn or early spring I leaves will appear in spring. Ligustrum
LAYERING in spring or auluinn t produces 3ft (lm) or more of growth
when young and vigorous, so it is
Th is genus includes deciduous and possible lo take ver)' large cuttings (see
evergreen shrubs. Privet is often grown below) to produce mature plan ts ready
as a hedge, and the clippings make good to go in the garden the following
culLings. It takes three years to grow a autumn, 1-2 years sooner than usual.
good-sized plant. All privets may be simple layered
Take nodal softwood and semi-ripe (see p.106). Gather seeds fr01n ripe
cuttings (see pp.JOO and 95), 2¾-4in berries and sow fresh (see p. J 04) in
(7-10cn1) long; retain the top two pairs late autumn. Dry seeds germ inale more
of leaves. Rooting takes 3-6 weeks. They uniformly if given 6--8 weeks of cold
can be rooted directly in pots (see p.96) . stratification (see p.103) in spring.
TAKING LARGE HARDWOOD CUTTI NGS OF PRIVET
Trim off 1he soft 1ips a11cl the foliage from the bouom half
Remove 2ft (60cm) long ripe
2 of the stems; cut all the slioots 10 a w1ifom1 le11g1h (see
inse1). Remove a sliver of bark, I 1/,i11 (3.5cm) 1011g. from 1he
1 shoots (here of Ligus1rum base of each curring witl1 a clean lmife or pruner bJade.
ovalifolium), culling ell the base of Space the cuui11gs i11 ,, slit trench ii11 (1 0cm) apart so rhat
th1?new gmwd1,j11sr below c1 nocle. 1he foliage is just clear of the soil. Firm i11, ware,: and label.
OTHER SHRUBS ANO CLIMBING PLANTS
l lYPOCALYMMA Take serni~ripe cuuings in Cuttings root well in rockwool plugs.
summer (see ,,.95) l- Surface-sow seeds in LEPTOSPERMUr-.-1 Root semi-ripe cuttings as
spring (sec p.104) l , for Piuosporum (see p.13i) l, Sow seeds in
Hvs;oeus Take softwood 10 semi-ripe au,umn or spring ( seep. 104) 1-
cuu ings from spring to autumn (see L ESPEDEZA Take soflwood and greenwood
/>p. l 00-1 a11d 95) UI, cu11ings as for Caryopteris (see p.121). Sow
I I EA Roo1 evergreen species from nodal seeds in au1umn (see p.103); or s1ore and
greenwood and semi.ripe cuuings as for lle.x sow in spring as for Clia111hus (see 11. 124) l-
(see ,,.81 ); deciduous species from soflwood LE~'COTHOE Roo1 greenwood and semi-ripe
and greenwood cu11ings (see 11p. lOO- I) !- cuttings from midsmnmcr to midwinter as
Surface-sow seeds in spring (sec p.104). for evergreen azaleas (see Rhodode11dro11,
I XORA Roo1 semi-ripe cuuings (see ,,.95) in p.138) l- Sow seeds as for Rl1odode11dro11 l,
sunnncr with bouom heat u. LEYCE51ERIA Place hardwood cu11ings in a
K tNNEDIA Seeds in spring as for prepared bed in a cool, fros1-free place in
Cliaiu/111s (sec p. I 24) I, au1umn 10 wimer (see p.98) l , Seeds in
K t RRIADivide suckers (see au1umn (see p.103) l,
p.101) l- Sofl- 10 hardwood cu11ings LITHODORA Take greenwood
as for Forsythia (see p. 128) l , nodal stem-tip cuuings from
LA ~1ANA Take greenwood summer 10 early aulllmn ( see
and semi-ripe internodal p.101) 11- Air fo_liage regularly.
cu11ings (see p/>.101 and
95) in summer and autumn !. ' L EYCES'fERIA FORMOSA
133
A-Z OF SHRUBS AND CLIMBING PLANTS

L ONICERA HONEYSUCKLE M ONSTERA

SOFTWOOD, SEMI-RIPE OA 5\VISS CHEESE PLANT
LEAF-BUD cun1NGS from 1:uc
(such as L. pilema). Take care to use
spring to l:ur :,,ummcr, material free from aph ids and powder)' LEAF·BUO OR STEM CUTTINGS :ll ~"> time'
mildew. Do not crowd the cuu ings, LAYERING 3 1 any llmc ~
HAAowooo CUTTINGS from
1:uc muunm rn midwil\lcl', which encourages bo1ry1is. Semi-ripe All of these everg reen, often epiphytic
LAYERING in sprillg. cuuings or L. pilcata and L. 11i1ida root climbers produce aeria l roots, making
SEEDS in ~mtumn or ,pnng, well if kept frost-free. You can a lso take them suitable for layering, but cullings
leaf-bud cuuings (see p.97). Take also produce good results. 11 takes two
Lo111rna Honeysuck les may be standard hardwood cuui ngs (see p.98); years 10 obtain mature plants.
x hrrJ11011ii evergreen or deciduous. 8-l 2in (20-30cm) cuu ings of Take leaf-bud (see rig/11) or stem
Both shrubs and climbers may be grown evergreens produce good-sized plants (see below) c ull i ngs, normally two nodes
from cuuings, and the climbers also by the next autumn. in length, and p lace in free-draining
respond well to layering. Flowering mediu111 in a humid environment with
plants 1113)' be raised in three years. SEEDS 68-77°F (20-25°C) bouom heal. The
Seeds need cold 10 germinate; sow seeds leaf ma)' be rolled up to stop the cu tting
CUTTINGS
-----------
Softwood and semi-ripe internodal
ex1rac1ed from berries fresh in autumn
or refrigerate in moist peat for three
from toppling. If )'OU have more than
one stem cu11ing, space them !in
sten1-tip or stem cuuings (see pp.JOO months before sowing (see p/>.103-4). (2.5cm) apart in the tra)'· Stem cu uings
and 95) root in four weeks. Take cuuings may also be inserted vertically in pots.
lY.-2in (3-Scm) long or climbers, such LAYER ING Rooting takes 4-8 weeks. Protect new
as Lo11icera japo11ica , but 21/,-3in Serpentine layer (see p.107) suitable foliage from hot sun to preven t scorch.
(6-8cm) long of closer-noded shrubs shoots; they take 6-12 months to root. To si,nple layer (see p.106), pin down
a long shoot of the new growth into soil
or an adjacen t container filled with free-
M AGNOLIA drain ing medium. Layers root
SEMI-RIPE CUTT1NGS from l:ltc
,,. fairly qu ick ly (3-6 months),
sununcr 10 m1n1111n U as softwood cuuings; they root slowly in• but sever new plants only once
SOFTWOOD OR GREENWOOD autumn and into win ter. Sow the doubly they are well established.
CUTTINGS in kuc spring lO dormant seeds as for tree magnolias.
c:1rly ::o\1mmcr U Simple layer magnolias in spring
Seeos in aununn ~1nd (see />.106), and sever the rooted la)•ers
springU in the following s pring. Air layering
$ 1MPlE LAYERING ii) -,pring ~
(see p.J 05) in autumn works well on
AIR LAYERING in autumn U
Me1x11olia the slower-growing species such as
GRAFTING in hllc 5lll11tn('r.
'Ricki' tvl. stellata.
aulumn. or ,pring £
For the gardener, grafting is often the
Many deciduous shrubs in this genus best way to propagate magnolias. For
may be increased from nodal stem-tip smaller shrubs, use seed-raised M. lwb11s
cuuings of soft- or greenwood, in the or M. x so11la11gea11a grown from cuttings $T~M CUTTING OF SWISS C II EESE PLANT
same way as for tree magnolias (sec as rootstocks. Spliced sid e-veneer graft Choo:,c u ymmg s1em th<H isjusr forming at, ial
p.83) . At the base of each cutting make (see p.109) in au tumn and early LO mid- roOls. Cut a 2i" (5cm) scctio11 as for leaf-bud
a light wound, no more than ¼in (2cm) spring. Chi p budding (see p.60) in late cuui,,gs (sec right). Fill a trny with soi/less
long. Take 4-6in (10-IScm) semi-ripe summer makes economical use of rooling medium. l'n·ss in the cutting so thai ir
cuu ings of evergreen shrubs and treat material. Plants matu re in 4-5 years. is lwlf buried, witl1 the bud uppermost.

M AHONIA OREGON GRAPEHOLLY

LEAF·BUO OR SEMr~RIPE CUTTINGS from - - - - Dhcm,J
midsummer lo :utlumn 1 Mahonias can grow 12in (30cm) or sof1 lipmul
HARDWOOD cumNGS in wimer ~ more in a year, so several hardwood Wp IC(l\'c.'S
DIVISION in -.pnng :md amunm J cuttings (see p.98) can be
Seeos in :nuumn, made from one stem.
Divide clumping
Sem i-ripe or hardwood cuuings from species such as
these evergreen shrubs are treated in M. ac111ifoli11m when
sim ilar ways. Wood taken once the first not in active growth
nush of growth has matured will root, (see p.1 48).
but later cuuings root beuer. Plants Seeds often
nowcr after three years. c ross-pollinate, Compound lecif
Prepare cuuings as leaf-bud cuuings as do some taller
(see right and p.97). Mahonias have quite M. aquifolium MAt·IONIA LEAF-BUD CUTTINGS
short iruernodal growth, so a cul ting can hybrids with Selec1 a shoot of this seasons growll,
have two or more nodes. Make a small M. pi11na1a, but (here of Mahonia japonita). Remove
wound, about '/2in (1cm) long, on one seedlings a re still tire soft lip and top 1mir of leaves. Cut
side or the stem; reduce the compound worthwhile from home- 11,e Siem into l- 2in (2.5-5 cm)
leaf to 2-3 pairs of leanets. Root in free- gathered seeds. Gather ripe fruits in early Cuuing _ -11 i11temodal C111ti11gs (see inset).
drain ing medium; bouonl heat of sum mer, and clean and wash the seeds 'lcd,c off all but tire top leaves and
S9-68°F (15-20°C) improves rooti ng. thoroughly before sowing (see p.l 04). ll'im llwse, cuuiug above ti Jcaflet

134

MONSTERA LEAF-BU D CUTTING
Sclecr" healthy, nor 11uirc mature leaf (ht're
1 of Mons1era de1icios..1 'Vt11 iegatcf) wid1,1
goo,/ bud i11 1hr le,if 1ixil. Cur s1r11igl11 oc,oss 1hr
stem j11s1 above the bud and abou1 l i11 (2.5cm)
below d1t· uode, usiug ,, elem,, sharl' lmife.
S1ipporr cutti,ig _
with s1,lil sw1:e
mul rwit1e
_ 611,I ~i,s at ,1ufcu ,.
e1J mt·(lium
Cho<>sc ,, pot rhcu is 110 more rlwn I in
2 (2.5cm) l>igger in ditm1cter that1 rhe sum.
Fill wirh soillcss moring medium. fnsar rhc
stem vcrtic<11ly. S11ppo11 1hr curring wirl1 split
stal:es ,,, mJI up tht· ftYif, swhc it, and secure
wil11 a twist tic. \\'cuer a11cl label.
N ERIUM O LEANDER, ROSE BAY
G REENWOOD OR SEMI-RIPE CUTTINGS from la1c
!tpring I(> earl)' :n.11umn j;
SEEDS m ) pnng 1
LAYERING 3l ..10)' time •
Nerium oleander is an evergreen shrub.
To produce a flowering plant in two
years, root 3in (8cm) greenwood or
semi-ripe cuuings (see pp. I OI and 95)
direct in pots (see p.96) in a humid
environment. Bouo111 heat o r 54- 68°F
(12-20°C) speeds rooti ng, in 3- 6 weeks.
Culli ngs also root in wa ter (see p.156).
Remove tips fo r bus hy plants.
Gather seeds from beanlike pods in
autumn . Sow in spring (see p.104) at
61°F (16°C) to genni nate in two weeks.
Oleanders hybrid ize readily (see p.21).
Air or si mple layering (sec pp.105-6)
produces a large plant but req uires more
time and effo rt than do cullings.
0 LEAR1A DAISY BUSH
S OFTWOOD QA SEM I- RIPE CUTTINGS from ~utnmtr
10 tHllumn U cuttings (see p.95) root best. Leave
HARDWOOD CUTTINGS m Wtnlcr 1
Among the evergreen shrubs in this
genus, Olearia stellulata and similar
weaker-growing species root reasonably
well fro,n softwood cuuings (see p.100)
in free-draining ,ned ium in hum id
conditions, such as under plastic. Pot
cuttings rooted early in the year, when
hardened off, into 3'hin (9cm) pots to
avoid straggly plants. With hybrids such
as 0 . x /iaastii and 0. x sci llo11iensis,
fi nding nonflowering shoots may be
difficult; 21/,-3in (6-8cm) sem i-ripe
OTHER SHRUBS ANO CLIMBING PLANTS
LUPINUS Take softwood and greenwood basal
cutt ings (sec J>Ji. JOO-J) in springl. Too
much humidity will rot tl,e cuttings. Sow
seeds in spring as fo r C/i11111l1us (see p.124) ,.
LYONtA Root g reenwood and semi-ripe
cuttings as for evergreen azaleas (sec
Rhododendron, p. 138) ,. Sow seeds
as for Rhododendron,.
MANDEVII LA RooL sof1wood and greenwood
cuttings (ste 1'1'·100-1) in early summer
with bouom heat of 68-77°F (20-25°C) ,.
Sow seeds in early spring (seep. J04) with
bo11om heat of 68-77°F (20-25°() l-
MANtfTIA Take sorlwood stem-lip cuulngs
(sec I'· JOO-I) in lalc spring or summer or
semi-ripe cu11ings (see 11.95) , . Sow seeds in
spring (sec ,,. 104) at 55-64°F (I 3-18°C) ,.
M crnNILLA. Root greenwood cuuings (sn·
p. JOI) in spring and summer, with humidity
and 68-77°F (20-25°C) bo1tom heat l- Sow
seeds in spring (sec p.l<H) at 66-75°F
(l9-24°C) ,. Air layer any time (set p.105) , .
M EUANTMUS Take basal sohwood cuttings
(seep. I 00) in spring when new growth is no
more than 6 in (15cm) long!. D ivide clumps
in early spring (see p. JOJ). Sow seeds in
spring as for Ab11rifo11 (see p. 118) , .
MENZIESIA Root greenwood cuuings in
summer as for evergreen azaleas
(see Rhodo,le111Jm11, /i. I38) ,. Sow seeds
as for Rho1/ode111/mn (see p.138) ,.
METROSIDCROS Take sem i-ripe cuttings as for
evergreen Cemrorhus (set' p. 121) U- Surface-
sow seeds at 5 7°F ( l 4°C) in spring (p. J 04) ,.
MIMOSA Root nodal softwood cuuings (see
p. I 00) in late spring,. Sow seeds as for
C/iwuhus (seep. I 24) , .
MtMULUS Take sortwood to semi-ripe
cuuings (see /ip.100-1 and 95) ,. Once
rooted, harden off quickly. since they are
prone to rol. Surface-sow seeds in earl)'
spring (see p.104) l-
MITCHEl LA Take semi-ripe cuuings (see
p.95) from late summer 10 autumn,. Sow
seeds in autumn (see 11.JOJ) ,.
MrRICA Root nodal greenwood cuuings
(sec p.101) in early to midsununcr with
L ON l CERA - P ACHYSTACHYS
the growing tips i[ possible, to prevent
botrytis from setting in. Olcarias also
root well in rockwool (see p.35).
Hardwood cuttings (see p.98) o[
0. macmdonta root well. Make sure
that the wood is fully mature at the
base and root in a hum id, frost-free
place. If placed in a greenhouse, cover
with plastic bu t do not provide bottom
heat, wh ich encou rages rot. Large
cuttings, 8-l 2in (20- JOcm) long, will
prod uce large plants ready to be planted
in the garden the following autumn .
New plants nower in 3-4 years.
bouom heat , . Take root cuttings as for
Celascrus (see p.122) , . Sow seeds in autumn
(sec p.103) ,. Simple layer (seep. I 05) , .
MYRTUS Root semi-ripe to hardwood
cuuings as for l'i1cosporu111 (see p.137) u.
For small-leaved species, which are more
difncuh 10 root. place 'h-'/4in (l- 2cm) of
fine grit on top of the medium. Sow seeds
in autumn or spring (sec P/i.103-4) U-
NANOINA Take nodal greenwood cuuings
(sec p.101) in summer,. Select wood just
a1 the point al which the stem is darkening.
Divide suckers (seep. IO I ) , . Sow seeds in
autumn (see p.103) ,.
NnLLIA Root softwood to semi -ripe stem
cu1tmgs in summer as for Phifcukl1,I1us (see
11. 136) , . Sow seeds in autum n (sec 11. 103) , .
0LMLLRIA (syn. Os111crrv11in) Take nodal
softwood and greenwood cuttings in late
spring as for A111e/1rnchirr (see p.118) ,.
Divide suckers as for A111c/1111chic1· (see
11. I I 8) , . Sow seeds in autumn (sec p. I 03) ,.
OSMANTHUS Root semi-ripe nodal stem-tip
cuttings (sec p.95 and 101 ) from late
sununcr to winter U- \Vhcrc possible, take
wilh a heel. Insert in free-draining medium
or rockwool plugs with bo1tom heat. Sow
seeds in containers in autu,nn (see p.103)
and leave in a frost-free place U.
o~rFoc;rrR~,1UM Take softwood to semi-ripe
cu1tings (see Jip.J00-1 mul 95) at any rime,.
Sow seeds in spring (sec p. I <H) ,.
0ZOTIIA"-·1 NVS Sem i-ripe CU I tings from late
sununcr 10 winter as Plilomis
(see 11. 137) U- (
Cuttings arc prone
I
to rotting off. Sow
seeds in autumn
(sec p.103) in
containers in a
frost-free place U.
PACHYSTACHYS Root softwood
and greenwood nodal stem-
rip cuttings (see pp. I00-1)
in summer ,.
MIMULUS AURANTIACUS
135
A-Z OF SHRUBS AND CL IMBI NG PLANTS
PAEONIA P EONY
Seeos in summer~,
GRAFTING 1n la1c summer,
This discussion refers
to the shrubby
deciduous tree peonies.
Species come true from
seeds but take several
Pcrecmia su_Jjni1icosa years to nower. Grafting
·Rcmc Elisabe1h· is the best option.
Plants flower in 2-3 years.
SEEDS
Sow seeds fresh (seep. l 03) in pots and
provide two periods of chilling, such as
two cold winters, with warmth between.
Seeds are doubly dormant (roots emerge
in the first year and seed leaves in the
second). Guard against mice: they love
the seeds. (See also Perennials, p.20'1.)
P ARTHENOClSSUS VIRGINIA CREEPER, B OSTON IVY
5oFTWOOO OR SEMI-RIPE CUTT1NGS (rorn ~pring
lO midsummer U
HAROWOOO CUmNGS m wmu_
• r'
Seeos in :wl\unn ;md ,1mng U
LAYERING Inspring'
Cullings of these vigorous, deciduous
climbers can be a lillle awkward. Plants
mature in three years.
CUTTINGS
Softwood cullings (sec p.100) ma)' rot;
semi-ripe ones (see p.95) root better but
ma)' fail 10 overwinter. Rooting takes
3-5 weeks. Cuuings of P<1rthe11ocissus
tricuspidma should have several nodes
10 give then, more overwintering buds
from which 10 shoot away. lnternodal
cullings 2½-3in (6-8cm) long of
P. </Uinquefolia have only one node,
but once rooted they grow away more
readily. Cuuings from up LO three-year-
old hardwood (see p.98) root well in a
frost-free place. Bouom heat can be used
if the to pgrowths remain cool; they are
prone 10 premature bud burst.
P ASSIFLORA PASSIONFLOWER, GRANADILU\
SOFTWOOD OR SEMI-RIPE
CUTTINGS rrom Spring 10
:,umm('r I
Seeos at any time i
LAYERING Ill spring'
Pa»iflora
The mainly evergreen
cli1nbing plants in this
genus are very easi l)'
'Amc1hys1· increased from any
type of softwood or se,ni-ripe cutting,
includi ng nodal stem-tip (see p.101) ,
leaf-bud (see p.97), and semi-ripe stem
(see p.95) cuttings. Rooting Lakes 3-4
weeks in a humid environment, but
do not transplant unti l spring.
136
GRAFTING
A scion and roo1s1ock of the same
species avoids suckering; however,
Paeonia lactiflora and P. officinalis
stocks are often used. Take a piece of
root about 4in (10cm) long and 1/,-¼in
(l-l.5cm) thick for a stock. Many
stocks can be taken from one plant,
and then discard the plant. Prepare a
scion from a l ½in (4cm) si ngle leaf-bud
culling with a bud in the ax il. Make the
cu t in the stock to a depth of l ¼-l '/2in
(3-4cm). Proceed as for a standard
apical-wedge graft (see p.108) .
In au tumn, the grafts s hould be
ready for polling. Grow on for a year
in a frost-free place before plan ting ou t;
make sure the un ion is underground
LO encourage the scion 10 root.
SEEDS
Chill seeds extracted fro,n black, fleshy
fruit for two months, b)• sowing fresh in
autumn or cold stratifying (see pp.103-4).
LAYERING
Many plants form aerial roots along the
shoots; serpentine layer (see p.107) one
such shoot 10 obtain several plants.
PARTfl ENOCISSUS TR ICUSPI DATA 'LOWII'
Softwood or semi-ripe cuuings of this a1ul othc,
c11hivars of Bosw11 ivy should have a, leaSI 3-4
noclcs: lw-gel' cuuings overwinter nwn· ellsily.
late
Cuttings ma)• be rooted directly in pots
(see p.96).
Ferment the seeds LO kill fusarium
disease: sto re ripe fruits for 14 days,
mash, and leave pulp in warm place for
3 da)'S. Clean seeds in a sieve under
running water, then dr)'- Prior 10 sowing
(see pp.103-4) at 68-77°F (20- 25°C),
soak the seeds for 24 hours in hot water
to soften their hard coats. T hey should
then germinate readily.
Very long shoots suitable for
serpentine la)'ering (see p.107) are
produced every )'Car. New plants fruit
and flower freely after 2-3 years.
P HILADELPHUS
MOC K ORANGE
SOFTWOOD OR SEMI- RIPE CUTTINGS from late
:,.pr-ing to rmd.summcr !
HARowooo CUTTINGS in wimcr •
Seeos in hue winter or :spnng •
Take softwood or sem i-ripe, nodal stem-
tip and stem cuuings (see pp.100 and
95) of these decid uous shrubs. The
cu ttings sho uld be two internodes or
about 3in (8cm) long; avoid thick, pithy
water shoots and look out for tips
distorted by aphids. Root semi-ripe
cu ttings in a tray o r directly in pots (see
pp.95-6). Rooting takes 4-6 weeks. Root
hardwood cuuings (see /J.98) in a frost-
free place or on a heated bench.
Seeds gcnninate more
freely if given 6-8 weeks
chilling (see p.103)
before sowing. Do not {
let seeds dr)' out.
SE~11-RIPE CU rTINCS
In spring. 1>or on cuttings (11f1c
of Philadclphus coro narius
'.Aureus') rooted diret:lly i11 pots,
or plant out in a nurse,y hcd.
P HILODENDRON
SoFTWOOO OR SEMl·AIPE cumNGS at an) time!
SEEDS when ripe !
LAYERING a1 any lime 1
The evergreen, often epiphytic climbing
shrubs in this genus natural!)' root
from their stems, so they are easy 10
grow from cuttings or la)'ers if kept
wann and humid .
Leaf-bud , stem-tip , and stein cuuings
(sec pp. 95-1 01) of soft- o r semi -ripe
wood, up to 4in ( 10cm) long, are all
su itable (see below). The type of culling
is determined by the spacing between
the nodes, wh ich va ries greatl)'. Rooting
takes 4-6 weeks at 70-77°F (21-25°C).
Cuuings require indirect light and
misting during very wann weather.
TYPES OF CUTTING
S1t•m·t1p huernodal leaf
__:::1 bucl cut1111g
,}
Double 11od<1I No<ltll lcaf-
.s1rm cuttu1g 1,ud culling

PHLOMIS
SEMHUPE OR HARDWOOD CUTTINGS from
midsummer 10 mid\\'intcr U
SEEOS in spring i amumnU
As with many gray-foliaged plants,
cuttings of the evergreen shrubs and
subshrubs in this genus are prone to
rot if kept too wet; seeds of species
germinate readil y. Plan tS should
mature in two years.
C UTTINGS
Take nodal stem-tip semi-ripe or
hardwood cuui ngs (see /Jp.95 and 98),
4in (10cm) long, from nonOowering,
current seasons growth. Insert in free-
draining mediu1n and place under
plastic. It is easy to kill cuttings ir
the medium and environment are 100
damp. Avoid bottom heat, wh ich creates
condensation that drips onto leaves,
encouraging bo1ry1is. Air the cuttings at
least three limes a week for 5-10 minutes.
Phlomis root excelle ntly under cover in
the garden. Rooti ng takes 4-12 weeks.
SEEDS
Sow seeds in spring (see p . 104) and
cover with vermiculite. Germinate in
2-3 weeks at 59-68°F (15-20°C).
Extract seeds of species rrom ripe berries
and sow immediately (see pp.1 03-4)
with bouom heat of 68-77°F (20-25°C).
Air layering (see below ancl p.105),
and simple layering (see p.1 06) provide
large new plants in 12-18 months. Seeds
or cu11ings provide a good-sized plant in
another year or so.
\Vou11cl die stem w11en air
layering a plrilo,le11dro11 by barl1-ri11gi11g clrc
d1oscn shoot. Score two JJ<ffallel cuts, about ½in
(Jc,n) apart, around 1he stem. TaJ:c care not lO
cue too dee1>ly into tire pith. Tlien peel off 1lre
rh1g of barlt to tevecd die wood (see inset).
PIERIS
GREENWOOD OR SEMl~RIPE
from late spring tO
CUTTINGS
SEEDS in l:uc winter or
Spring!
LAYERING in spring'
It can be hard to find
Pieri, good culling material
j11po11ica on these evergreen
shrubs but is wonh the effort, because
only species are best raised from seeds.
Plan LS Oower in three· years.
C UTTINGS
Once the new foliage loses iLS red or
pin k tinge, take thin nodal greenwood
cuuings (see p.101 ), up to 3in (8cm)
long, from a vigorous plant. Remove the
tips and retain 4-5 leaves. Reduce larger
leaves by half. With hormone rooting
con1pound, free-draining, low-nutrient
1nediu1n, and 54-59°F (12-15°C)
bouom heat, rooting takes 6-8 weeks.
Make '/,-¾in ( l-2cm) wounds on sem i-
ripe cuttings (see p.95).
SEEDS
Su rface-sow seeds (see p.104); keep
moist at 59°F (l5°C). Seedlings grow
slowly and are prone to scorch.
LAYERING
----
Simple layer (see ,,.1 06) in spring, but
air layer (see p.105) at any time.
OTHER SHRUBS AND CLIMBING PLANTS
PARAt-tEIJE Root greenwood cuttings in late
spring and early summer in free•draining
medium as fo r Hebe (sec p.130) !, Sow seeds
in spring (see ,,.104) in a [ros1-free place 1.
P,\RROT1ors1s Root greenwood cu1tings as
for Magnolia (seep. 134) in early summer H-
Sow seeds as for Hamamelis (sec p.130) 11-
PENSTCMON Take nodal sortwood to semi·
ripe cuuings (see Pl'· 100 and 95) Crom spring
to autumn!, Sow seeds in aUlumn or spring
(see pp.103-1) l-
PENTAS Take softworn:I cuuings (see ,,. JOO)
at any 1ime 1- Sow seeds in spri ng (see 11, / 04)
a1 6l-64°F (16-JS•C) 1-
PEROVSKIA Root nodal stem cuuings in
spring before Rowers fo rm. as for Cwyop-
teris (see p. 121) , . Keep hardwood cuuings
in winter frosi-free (see p.98) 1-
PETREA Semi-ripe cu11ings (see p.95) in
summer Wilh bo11om heal or 64°F ( L8°C) ,.
Simple or air layer (pp. I 05-6) in lace winier l-
x PHII.J\GERIA Layer as Lapageria (see p.132) 1-
PHOTINIA Rool nodal greenwood and scrni-
ripe cu11ings (see pp. l OJ and95) in free-
draining medium from summer to wimer U ,
They root well in rockwool plugs and wi1h
high levels or rooting hormone. Sow seeds
in spring (see p.104) II-
P AEONIA - P OLYGALA
P ITTOSPORUM
S EM l·RlPE CUTTINGS in
aulUmnU
Seeos in lalc winier t
lAYER1NG il'l early Spring'
GRAFTING m late winter'
The evergreen sh rubs
in this genus have
Pruosponun more Lhan one flush
'Garncuii' of growth , so it is easy
to confuse an earlier Oush with old
wood. Ta ke 2½-3i n (6- 8cm) semi-ripe
cuuings (see p .95) rrom current seasons
growth . Cu uings can rot orr at the base,
but if inserted through a ¼in (2cm) layer
of sharp sand on free-d raining med ium ,
they often root higher up the stem.
Large-leaved and green species and
cultivars root more easily. Rooting takes
8-12 weeks at 54-68°F ( l2- 20°C). If
leaf drop occurs, discard the cuttings
and take a second batch.
GaLher the sticky seeds when the
capsules split, wash in soapy water,
and sow (see p .104) at 59°F (15°C).
Seedlings may be planted out after one
season. Increase suitable shoots by air
and simple layering (see pp.105-6).
Whip graft (see p.109) or spliced side
graft (see p.58) on to a one-year-old
P. te11uifolium seedling rooLStock. Under
plastic, the union calluses in six weeks;
at this point, harden orr and cut back
the stock. Expect 12in (30cm) of growth
in a year in sheltered conditions.
Ptwcruus Take so[1wood basal cuuings in
spring and nodal greenwood cuuings up to
autumn (,ee pp.100-1 ) 1- Sow seeds in
spring (see ,,. I04) a1 50-59°F ( I 0-! 5°C) 1.
rm·, LOIJOCt As for heaths (sec pp.110-11) I
P1t'l'SOCARPU~ Softwood to semi .. ripe cuuings
from late spring to la1e summer as for
Caryoptcris (see 11, J 2 J) 1, Seeds in spring
(sec p.104) in a fros1-[ree place!-
PILEOSTEGIA Semi-ripe cuuings in surnmer
and autumn as for Escallonia (see p.127) I-
Simple or serpc111inc layer (see />p.106-7) 1-
PtPCR G reenwood cuu ings (see p.101) in
summer at 66-77°F (20-2s•c) 1-Seeds in
spring (see p.104) a166-77°F (20-25°C) I-
P1PTANn1us Seeds as Clia111hus (seep. I 24) I
P1soN1A Take greenwood ,o semi-ripe
cuuings (see pp.IOI mu/ 95) in summer l-
Sow seeds in spring (see ,,. 104) l- Air layer
(see p.105) in spring 1.
P1 UM6AGO Take softwood 10 semi-ripe stem
cuttings (see pp.JOO-JOI and 95) [ram spring
10 autumn 1- Seeds in spring (see p. 104) l-
POLYGAI.JI Root nodal so[twood 10 semi-ripe
cuuings (see />p.100-1 and 95) in spring and
summer,. Sow seeds of hardier species in
auiurnn: sow seeds of tender species in
spring (see p.104) 1-
137
A-Z OF SHRUBS AND CLIMB ING PLANTS
POLYGONlJM R USSIAN
VINE, /vi/LE-A-MINUTE PLANT
$0FTWOOO OR SEMl·RIPE
CUTT1NGS from l~llC spring 10
late sum,ner .U
HARDWOOD CUTIJNGS m
wmlcr 1
ROOT cumNGs in wimer 1
These vigorous,
deciduous climbers
Pc,lygonum (syn. Fallopia ) arc very
bol,h(h1wnicum vigorous growers, )'Cl
softwood and semi-ripe cu uings (see
pp. l 00 and 95) are surprisingly difficult
to root. Some rot, while others fail to
overwinter in colder clirnates. Take
internodal cuuings no more than 2½in
(6cm) long. Rooting takes 2-4 weeks
and growth is slow. New plants take
three years to reach Oowering size.
With hardwood cuLtings (see p.98),
untangling the twisted mass of mature
stems is usually the hardest pan. They
root well in deep pots o r trays in
a frost-free place such as a greenhouse.
If shoots appear before roots arc well
developed , cover them with fleece to
protect them from being scorched
by the sun. Cuttings polled singly in
51/,-7in (14- l9cm) pots will be ready
to plant in autumn. Root cuttings 1113)'
be taken as for Celastrus (see p.122).
P OTENTlLLA CINQUEFOIL
GREENWOOD TO SEMl•RIPE CUTTINGS from hnc
:,pring lo lt1te summer!
HAROWOOO CUTTINGS in winter'
Seeos in :nuumn or 5,J>ring 1
The deciduous shrubs in this genus
(syn. Comarwn ) are easy to root from
greenwood and semi-ripe stem cuttings
(sec /Jp.101 mu/ 95) , but they must not
be allowed to dry out because the young
foliage scorches easil)'·
Take cuttings 2-2¾in (5-7cm) long,
and pinch out the growing tips if they
are sti ll soft. Rooting takes about three
weeks. Nodal and internodal cunings
do equally well. Rooting directly in pots
(sec p.96) and under the protection of a
sun tunnel (see p.39) are other options.
\.\1atch out for powdery mildew in spring
and spider mite at the end of summer if
raising plants under glass.
Similarly sized cuuings may be taken
from hardwood (see p.98). These may
be sl ightly larger than standard length
for the more vigorous cultivars of
PotetHilla Jruticosa, such as 'Gold Drop'
and 'Klondike'. The cuttings root well in
a cold frame or in a deep conta iner on a
heated bed in a frost-free greenhouse.
Shrubby potentillas may be grown
from seeds (see p.104) but may take
longer LO flower, usually in two years,
and produce variable offspring.
138
P RUNUS ORNAMENTAL CHERRY
SoFTWOOO CUTTINGS in hue spring and early
summer U
from late ...umm('r lO ;1tuumn '
SEMI-RIPE CUTTINGS
HAROWOOO CUTTINGS from late :.lUlUl1l11 to late
winier!
SEEDS in amumn or spring U
There is a wide range of deciduous
and evergreen shrubs in this genus.
Flowering shrubs such as Prtrnus tenella
and P. glandulosa root in 4-6 weeks from
softwood basal cuuings (see p.100)
taken from new 2½in (6cm) shoots as
P YRACANTHA FIRETHORN
GREENWOOD OR SEMI- RIPE Cl.lM'"INGS from
mid.summer tO early autumn l
HARDWOOD CUTTINGS from hue autumn to
midwin1cr U
SEEDS m :mwmn or spring U
Several cuttings may be taken from one
new shoot of the evergreen shrubs in
this genus. In two or three years they
will nower and fruit.
C UTTINGS
Greenwood or sem i-ripe nodal stem
cuttings (see pp.101 crnd 95) , 21/,-3 in
(6-Scm) long, root easily. Remove 311)'
soft tips and apply hormone rooting
com pound. Rooting takes 4-6 weeks.
Treat hardwood cuuings (see p.98)
as above, but wound the bottom ¼in
(2cn1). Keep frost-free. Bottom heat
of 54-68°F ( 12- 20°C) speeds rooting.
Larger cuttings, 8-12in (20-30cm) long,
rooted in 5'/,-7in (l 4-19cm) pots,
produce shrubs to plant out the next
autumn. Cunings taken in early winter
may suffer from scab, preventing rooting.
SEEDS
Extract seeds from berries in autumn
and winter (see below). The seeds need
three months' cold stratification (see
/Jp. I 03-4) before they will germinate.
........
GATHERING FIRETIIORN SEEDS
Gather spY(1ys of ripe fndts in cmtumn ,md
wi111er. Sc1uash them 10 renw,,e most of the flesh.
then wash by n,bbing 111cm in wnrm w<Ht,: Sow
fres l, or siorc in moisr sand in 111«! n'frigermor.
the flowers fade. Sem i-ripe and hard-
wood cuttings (see pfJ.95 and 98) of the
evergreen laurels, P. laurocerasus and
P. lusitanica , root prodigiously if kept
frost-free and humid. Reduce large leaves
by half. Rooted cuttings may be potted
in 5'1.-7in (14-19cm) pots in late winter
and planted out the following autumn.
Gather seeds from ripe fruits. They
need 2-3 months' cold to germinate:
sow fresh in autumn or stratify in moist
peat before spring so,ving (see pp.103-4).
RHODODENDRON
Sonwooo OR GREENWOOD
fr~rn late. spring to
CUTTINGS
nmbummcr 1 to IU
S EMl~RIPE CUTTINGS from
1mclsummcr to autumn U
Seeos in ,vi mer ,o early
spring,
LAYERING irl ,pring ~md
autumn i
Rl1oclotle11dro,i
GRAFTING m \\ inter 1
·Sappho·
This genus includes a wide range o[
deciduous and evergreen shrubby
azaleas and rhododendrons thal can be
propagated in a variety of ways. Times
vary for first nowering, from 2-5 years
or more.
C UTTINGS
To root deciduous azaleas, take soft-
wood nodal stem-tip cuttings (see p.100)
when the new growth is only an inch
or two long, often when the shrubs are
still flowering. Apply hormone rooting
com pound . Cuttings arc susceptible to
scorch, so shade heavily on bright, hot
days. Placing cuuings under mist works
well. Rooting takes 8-LO weeks. The
greater the root growth before autumn
the beuer, since overwintering small-
rooted cutlings of deciduous azaleas
is notoriously difficult. Placing rooted
cuuings under fluorescent lights to
extend the daylength in colder climates
is beneficial.
For evergreen azaleas and dwarf
rhododendrons, nodal greenwood
cuttings (see p.101 ) root more easily.
Many of the evergreen, large-
nowered hybrids root best from semi-
ripe nodal cuui ngs (see p.95). Remove
the Lips, reduce larger leaves by up
LO a half, wound, and apply hormone
rooting compound. Provide bouom heal
of 54-68°F (12-20°C) for best results.
Rooting takes 10-15 weeks.
SEEDS
Seeds from hand-pollinated plants often
come true to type. Surface-sow the fine
seeds (see p.104), gathered from dr)'
pods, on to sieved acid ic (ericaceous)
soil mix. Ensure that the seeds do not

R HUS S UMAC
ROOT CUTTINGS in wi mer '
OMSION in late winier*
i
Seeos in winter and ~pnng
For deciduous and evergreen s hrubs
and climbers in this genus (syn.
Toxicodendro11), root cullings (see
Celasrn1s, p .122) work very well ,
yielding saplings ready LO plant ou t in
a year. Sumacs s uc ke r prolifically and so
are easy to divide (see p.101 ). Soak the
seeds in hol water for 48 hours and chill
for three months ( p.103) before sowing.
dry oul by placing the pots or 1rays
under mist, g lass, or plas tic wrap. Seeds
need light 10 germinate. Bollom heat
al no more than 61°F ( 16°C) reduces
germination 1ime . Leave s mall seedlings
in the containe r until the following year,
or transplant then1 into cells. Grow on
under protection and s hade as requ ired
in summer. Trans plant s pring-sown
seedlings the following year.
LAYERING
Air (seep. I 05) and si1nple (see p.106)
layering both work well , if suitable
shoots are selected (see below).
GRAFTING
Spliced side-veneer (see p.109) in winier
onto penc il-thick seed ling rootstocks,
either pot-grown or bare-root. Suckering
[rom the s tock can be a problem, so the
union should be as low as possible.
A rooted c ulling or R. 'Cunningham's
White· sucke rs less often . Plunge bare-
root stocks in moist peat to encourage
a fibrous root syste1n and a good root
ball to.develop quickly. Callusing takes
6--8 weeks in a plastic tent at
o
59-68°F s-2o•c).
SUITABLE UNSUI TABLE
SHOOT SHOOT
SELECTING SHOOTS FOR SIMPLE LAYERING
A heallhy, strong seem wi1h green,flexible
shoors (see left) will bend more easily mul root
more reacliJy when fciyered them oldc,; woodier
stems (sec right).
R IBES FLO\VERING CURRAN T
SOFTWOOO OA SEMl·RIPE CUTTINGS from late
spring Lo miclst1mrner U
HARDWOOD CUTTlNGS from hue a\.llurno lO
midwinter!
BuOOING in mid- to l:-11e :,mnmer U
GRAFTING in late winter U
Cuttings or these deciduous and
evergreen s hrubs are taken from soft-
or sem i-ripe wood for ornamentals and
fro m hardwood for [ruiting c urrants
and gooseberries (Ribes uva-crispa var.
reclinatum) . Standard gooseberries may
be grafted. New plants mature or fruit
in 2--4 years.
CUTTINGS
Softwood and semi-ripe stem and stem-
Lip c uttings (see pp.100-1 and 95) root
reasonably we ll . Avoid using material
affected with powdery mildew. For best
results, take nodal stem-tip cutti ngs
from 3--4in (8- l Ocm) or new growth,
retaining the top two leaves. Apply
hormone rooting compound, and
protect young foliage from scorc hing.
Take hardwood cuttings or cu rrants
and gooseberries (see right and p.98).
Insert cutti ngs of gooseberries and red-
and whitecurrants (R. rubrum) to half
their length. If desired, retain the top
1wo leaves. Insert blackcurrant cuuings
(R. nign,m) so that only two buds are
above soil. Keep orname ntal hardwood
cuttings frost-free to e nsure rooting.
GRA FTING
Chip bud or whip-and-tongue graft
(see pp.59-60) gooseberry scions onto
a roo ts tock s uch as R. divaricatum or
R. o,lor,1111111 at 3-4ft ( l-l.2m). lf c hip-
bud ding, inse rt two facing buds.
OTHER SHRUBS ANO CLIMBING PLANTS
PONCIRUS Rool softwood to semi-ripe nodal
cu11i ngs (see p/>.100-1 anti 95) in summer,.
Sow seeds in autumn (sec p.103) , .
J'ROSTANTIICRA Take semi-ripe nodal SlCm·
tip cuttings in la1e summer and autumn as
for Pl1lo111is (see p.137) U, Cunings may ro1.
Sow seeds in spring (see ,,.104) u.
PROTEA Take semi•ripe s1em-lip cuu ings as
for Ofea,ia (see p.J35) u. Sow seeds in
spring (seep. I04) at 50-59°F ( I 0-15°C) u.
Seedlings may damp off. Some species
respond 10 smoke ireatmem (see p.103).
P rntEA Take greenwood nodal cunings in
early summer (sec p.101 ) 1- Sow seeds in
autumn (see p.103) , .
PrEROSTYRAX Root softwood nodal cunings
in early summer as for Ccuyopuris (see
p.121) ,. Sow seeds in autumn (sec p.103) I,
RHAMNUS Root semi-ripe to hardwood nodal
tunings (see pp.9.5 1md 98) in au1umn and
winter in an open medium or rockwool
POLYGONUM - ROSMARINUS
HARDWOOD CUTTINGS
l PREPARING CUTTINGS
ri/>f slwo1s of gooseber,frs
Cut
aud cun·<mts l<> kngth (see
left). Retain all tl,e bu<ls 011
c1111i11gs of blt1c/1c11rnm1 (ro
produce /Jlcnty of ,hoots (It
or below ground fevd) aml of
gooseb1-r1y (w 11ssis1 roo1illg).
Remove c1ll lm1 1hc IU/> 3-4
buds of reel· and wl1itec11rrmu
cuuings to f'ft'\'€11l sud:criug.
BLACKCURRANT
8-IOin (20-25cm)
RED- AND \VlilTECURRANT
J2in (30cm)
GOOSEBERRY
J2-15in (30-38cm)
G OOSEHl;JU!Y CUTTINGS Lifl the l'OOICd
hanJwoml cuuh1g:, ,,Ju:, one year. Rub out any
shoots on flu: lower 4in ( 10cm) of the s1em or
any buds from 11..- base of cac/1 culling before
J>lcm(ing them out. Tl1is will c~voicl Jomwtion of
troublesome suchc,·~ whtn the bush t·stablishes.
plugs with 50-59"1' ( I5-20°C) bonom heat
U. Sow seeds in autumn (see />.103) U-
RH.APIIIOI.EPIS Root greenwood nodal
cunings as for Pyraamrlia (see p.138) ,.
Sow seeds in autumn (sec /J.103) I-
R1 IODOTl-tAMNUS RoOl semi.ripe nodal
cunings (see p.95) in summer with 59-68°F
05-20°C) bouom heat , . Sow seeds as for
Rhodo!lendron (see /J. I38) 1-
RHOOOTYl'OS Root softwood 10 hardwood
cunings as for Forsythia (sec p.128) 1. Sow
seeds in autumn (see p.103) 1-
ROMNEVA For named cultivars. take rool
cunings as for Celastn,s (see p.J22), but
insert the root horizontal!)' U- Soak seeds in
alcohol for 15 minutes (see p.103); sow in
autumn U. To avoid disturbing roo1s.
transplant into cell packs.
ROSMARINUS Take semi-ripe and hardwood
cuttings as for Lava11d11la (see p.132) 1. Sow
seeds in spring (see I'· I04) ,.
139
A-Z OF SHRUBS AND CLIMBING PLANTS

R UBUS BRAMBLES TIP LAYERING BRAMB LES

SOFlWOOO OR SEMI-FUPE cumNGS from
midsummet iL
HAAOWOOO CUTTINGS in wimer.
ROOT CUTTINGS in autumn and \\tntcr l healthy section of ca ne about 12-18in
LEAF~suo CUTTINGS in mid. 10 l:uc summer j
DIVISION from autumn to carlr spring 1
LAYERING from late ::.ummcr 10 e..1rl)' spring
These deciduous and evergreen shrubs
and climbers include raspberries (Rubus
idaeus), blackberries ( R. Jn1ticos11s),
wineberries (Rubus phoenicolasius), and
111any hybrid berries. Although Lhey are
long-lived planLS, they can carry viruses,
so regular propagation maintains vigor.
Blackberries can be invasive in some
areas, such as Australia. Brambles root
easily fro111 all types or cuttings, but
division is best for raspberries. For
blackberries and hybrid berries, leaf-bud
cuttings provide large numbers of new
plants, and tip-layering is best where
only a few plants are required. Frui t and
nowers are usually produced after 2-3
years; divided raspberries fruit after
one year.
CUTTINGS
Take so ftwood and sem i-ripe cuttings
(see pp.JOO and 95) of ornamentals. T hey
can be rooted dircctl)• in pots (sec p.96).
Cuttings insert ed upside down root as
well , if not better. Hardwood (see p.98)
and root cuttings of deciduous species
(see Celastn,s, p.122) respond well .
spnng to
Take leaf-bud cuttings (see p.97)
where material is lim ited. Select a
(30-45cm) long, avoiding immatu re
buds and choosing healthy buds with
I healthy leaves. Take a l in (2.Sc111)
cuning, including a bud and about
½in (1cm) above and below it. Insert
in a mix of equal parLS peat and sand,
in trays or pots, in a humid , frost-free
place (or under mist). Rooting takes
6-8 weeks. In spring, pot or plant out
in a nursery bed 12in (30cm) apart in
rows 3ft (90cm) apart. They will be Jn lace simtmc,; choc>Sl' c1 vigorous, healthy
ready to plant ou t in the fol lowi ng
autumn or spring.
1cane. prcfcrnbly m ,1,., edge of 1f1e plmu.
8111)' tht lip in 11 4-6in (10-I5cm) deep hole
mut Jinn. Jf nC'cdcd. peg d1c cane down.
D IVISION
This is best for raspberries. Lift mature
planLS in the dormant season and divide
(see p.101 ), keeping at least one cane
and a good root system with each piece.
Plant in a new row, 1S-18in (38-45cm)
apart. Shorten the cane to 9i n (23cn1),
just above a bud. For suckering species,
divide rooted suckers ( see p.101 ).
LAYERING
Tip layering (see right) is the best way
to propagate blackberries. IL ut il izes the Keep llit~soif moist. TltC· tip :,houM mo, in
plant's habit of rooting from the tip
when the canes couch the grou nd . For
2 a fe.w weehs. Uf1 ii nt this swgc and JJOl to
grnw cm o, lcm·e ir unrU Sf'ring and U'(msplcmt.
ornamental species, use serpentine \Vl1en ~cvcdng the tip from 1l1e pat·cnr plmu,
layering (see p.107). rcwin abmu 9in (23011) of the old Siem .

SALIX WI LLOW SAMBU cus ELDER

SoFTWOOO OA SEM1•RIPE cumNGS from ~pring to
summer i
HARDWOOD CUTTINGS from i\UIUIIHl I<) la1c w1mcr'
Seeos 111 spring U
The shrubby willows root very easily
from cuttings. Take softwood or semi-
ripe cuttings (see pp.100 and 95), and
root in containers in humid conditions.
They can also be rooted outdoors under
cover (see p.96). More vigorous species
may put on 3ft (90cm) of growth (or
more) before autumn. For dwarf
willows, take lin (2.5cm) softwood
cuttings in late spring to early summer.
Hardwood cuttings (see p.98) may be
taken up to 8in-oft (20cm-2m) in length,
producing a mature plant a year or two
earlier than standard cuttings. One way
of obtaining young, straight shooLS for
large cuttings is 10 cut back a stock
shrub al most to the ground each spring,
a .process known as stooling (see t>.56).
If seeds are produced, they arc viable
for only a few clays. Sow at once or store
in da,np peat in a refrigerator for no
more than a mon th. Sow as for Clemmis
(see p.123) and keep moist at all times.
The seeds should germi nate in 1-2 days.
A LIVING FENCE
T/11sfe11ce.j11s1 coming
into bud in spring, has
l.>ee11 wol'e11 fro m 6}1 (2111)
Jwrdwood cuttings of
Salix vim inalis, Tiu~
cuttings root ret,dily to
fo n11 a green fence. A few
nurseries provide lw:ge
hardwood cuttings. caHetl
sets, thm can be insc11t<l
whole ro form m1 tdmost
insuuu wimlbrealt 0 11
exp,,sed hillsides.
SOFlWOOO OR SEMI- RIPE CUTTINGS from spring
lo midsummer 1
HARDWOOD CUTTINGS In wmu:r ~
Seeos in SJ>ring U
GRAFTING in wintC:'r ~
The deciduous shrubs in this genus root
easily from softwood or semi-ripe nodal
cuuings (see p/>.100 and 95) if su itable
material is used. Avoid vigorous, pithy
shoots, si nce these are likely to rot.
Consider rooting directly in pots (see
p.96). If possible, take hardwood
cuttings (see p.98) with a heel, because
large stems tend to be pithy and prone
to rot. Root outdoors, or in containers
in a frost-free place.
Gather the hard-coated seeds from
the neshy fruiLS (see p.103) as soon as
they ripen in summer. If stored dry in
a refrigerator, they remain viable for
several years, but are best sown fresh
in autumn (see p. l 04) where they will
undergo a period of cold. Germination
may occur in the first or seco nd spring.
Spliced side graft colored cut-leaved
cultivars, such as Sambucus racemosa
'Plumosa Aurea', onto one-year-old
S. nigra seedlings (see p.58) for a good-
sized plant by the following autumn.

140

SOLANUM
S OFTWOOD OA SEMl•RIPE
CUTTINGS from late spring 10
late summer,.
SEEDS in late winier 10 early
spring~
This genus (S)'lt.
Lyciantlies) includes
So/amun trlspum semi-climbing wall
'Glasnevin' shrubs, both evergreen
and deciduous, as well as the eggplant
and potato (see p.307). Shrubby species
are not usually difficult to root from
cuuings. Winter cherries (Solanum
pseudocapsicwn) may be raised
from seeds.
CUTTINGS
5olanum cuuings can suffer badly fro1n
botrytis and stein rots. It is best to take
softwood and semi-ripe nodal stem
cuttings (see pp.100 and 95), 2-4in
(5-lOcm) long, of the less vigorous new
growth; select shoots with close-spaced
nodes. Plants mature in 2-3 )'ears.
SEEDS
Extract seeds from ripe fruits (see p.103)
and sow fresh (see p.104), covering with
½in (1cm) of vermiculite. Provide 68°F
(20°C) botto,n heat 10 germinate within
four weeks, and fruit in eight 1non1hs.
SOPHORA
SEMl·RlPE CUTTINGS in Ja1e summer.£
SEEDS in autumn o r spring•
The deciduous and evergreen shrubs in
this genus belong to the pea family, so
the hard seeds must be treated before
sowing. Success with cuu ings depends
on obtaining suitable material. Plants
flower in 3-4 years.
CUTTINGS
Semi-ripe cuttings (see p.95) are best
selected from plants that are still
producing good new growth annually
prior 10 flowering. Once the plant has
reached 1naturity, when only enough
growth is produced to bear the new
flower buds, rooting becomes 1nuch
more difficult. Insert cuuings 2-3in
(5-8cm) long, where possible with a
heel (see p.96), in free-draining medium.
Apply honnone rooting compound and
provide botton1 heat of 59°F (15°C).
Rooting takes 6-8 weeks. Harden off the
seedlings, keep frost-free over winter,
and pot in spring.
SEEDS
Gather seed and soak for 48 hours (see
p.103) 10 remove the sticky coating. Sow
fresh (see p.104) in warm climates or
store dry in a refrigerator. Before spring
sowing, soak in hot water for 24 hours.
SPIRAEA SPIREA
SoFTWOOO OR SEMl·AIPE CU1T1NGS in spring 10
late summer•
H ARDWOOD CUTTINGS in winter 1
D 1v1s10N when dormanl •
These deciduous shrubs all root readily
from cuttings. Clump-forming species,
such as 5. thunbergii, ,nay be divided.
Plants flower in 2-3 years.
CUTTINGS
Take softwood and semi-ripe stem
cuui ngs (see pp.JOO and 95), 2-3in
(5- 8cm) long. Rooting Lakes 2-4 weeks.
They may also be rooted directly in pots
(see p.96) or in a sun tunnel (see p.39).
\.Vith more vigorous species, such as
5.veit.chii , hardwood cuttings (see p.98)
root well in a frost-free place or in a
deep container p laced on a heated bed
in a frost-free greenhouse.
DIVISION
It is often a good idea to prune back the
plant to within 12in (30cm) of the
ground to make it easier to handle the
clump before dividing it (see p.101).
OTHER SHRUBS AND CLIMBING PLANTS
Ri.;scus Take single-bud rhizome cuuings
(see p.149) in early winter and grow on in a
frost-free place!- Divide clumps (see p.101 )
in early spring J. Sow seeds in autumn
(see p.103) i .
R UTA Root greenwood to semi-ripe nodal
cu11ings (see pp. IOI and 95) in summer and
aU1umn without bouom heat J. Sow seeds in
spring (sec p.104) ,.
SA LVLA Take sof1wood to semi-ripe nodal
cu11ings (sec P/>.100-1 and 95) i, Surface-sow
seeds in spring as [or Rlwdodell{/ron (see
p.138)~.
SAN TOUNA Take greenwood to hardwood
nodal s1cm-tip cu11ings (see pp.IOI and 98)
,i. Seeds in autumn or spring (see p.104) ~~­
SARCOCOCCA Roo, greenwood to hardwood
nodal cu11ings as for Buxus (see p.120) ~-
Divide suckers (see p.101) 1- Sow seeds in
autumn (seep. I OJ) I-
ScHl20PHRAGMA Root greenwood nodal
cuttings in summer as for Pyrncantha (see
p.138) 11- Results can be variable. Seeds
require three months or cold stratification
(see p.103) before germina1ing 11-
SENECIO Root greenwood 10 hardwood
cuuings of hardy species at any time
as for Lavatera (see 11.133) 1- Take
greenwood and semi-ripe cuttings
(see pp. IO I and 95) of ,ender
species in summer and auLUmn J.
Sow seeds or hardier species in pots
in spring (see p.103) in a frost-free
place!, Sow tender species in spring
a,
(see p.104) 59-68°F (20-25°C) 1-
SKIMMIA Take greenwood to hardwood
RUBUS - SWAINSONA
STEPHANOTIS
SEMI-RIPE Cl!TTINGS at any
1ime t
Seeos in spring,
These evergreen twining
climbers and shrubs are
easil)' increased from
cuuings or seeds. New
Steph,motis plants reach flowering
florib11,ula size in 2-3 years.
CUTTINGS
Root semi-ripe nodal cuuings (see
p.95), with 2-3 nodes, at a te mperature
of 70-77°F (21-25°C). Stem-tip
cuttings a lso do well (see p.101).
Several cuttings can be made from one
shoot. Rooting takes 4-6 weeks.
Cuttings require shading and misting
during very warm weather to prevent
scorch. Alternatively, place the cuuings
under plastic.
SEEDS
Gather ripe seeds from the pods and
sow fresh (see pp.103-4). Germination
occurs at 68-77°F (20-25°C) .
nodal s,em cuttings as for Escallonia (see
p.127) l, Sow seeds in autumn (see p.103) I,
SoLAN DRA Roo, greenwood to semi-ripe
cu11ings (see pp.101 cmd 95) in summer al
59-68°F (15-20°C) I- Sow seeds in spring
(seep. I 04) l-
So RBARIA Take softwood to hardwood
cunings as for Ab111ilon (see p.118) l- Dig up
rooted suckers (see p. IO I)~- Sow seeds in
autumn (see ,,.103) I,
SORBUS Sow seeds in autumn (see p.103) 1-
SrARTlt.:M Seeds as for Cficm1l111s (see p.124) 1-
STACHYURUS Root greenwood nodal or heel
cuuings (sec p/1.101 and 96) in summer 11-
Avoid vigorous shooLS. Cuui ngs may root
but £ail to grow away in spring despilc initial
flowering. Seeds in autumn (see p. I OJ) 11-
S'rAPIWLEA Root greenwood nodal cu11ings
(see p.101 ) in summer I- Sow seeds collected
in autumn irnmedialely to avoid drying OUI
and loss or viability; they require periods of
warm. 1hen cold, stra1ification (see p.103) jj.
STEPHANANORA Nodal or imcrnodal s1em
cu11ings as for Lavaurc, (see p.133) l- Seeds
as [or Staphylea (see above) l~-
STREPTOSOl.EN Softwood stem-lip
cultings in early summer as for
Abutilon (see p.118) I, Root
semi-ripe cuuings in summer
(see p.95) jj. Simple layer in
late summer (see p.105) 1-
SWAINSONA As for Cliantl1us
(p.124).
5KIMMIAJAPONICA 'RUBELLA'
141
A-Z OF SHRUBS AND CLIMBING PLANTS
5YMPHORICARPOS
SNO\VBERRY
SOFTWOOD OR SEMI-RIPE CUTTINGS from lalc
~prmg to c:1rly :ttlltlllm 1
HAAOWOOO CUTTINGS 1" w1mcr ~
DMSION from autumn 10 carlr spring I
Seeos in spring U
These deciduous shrubs will root from
2-3in (5-Scm) long softwood or semi-
ripe stem cuuings (see pp.JOO and 95)
in 2-4 weeks, maturing in 2-3 )'ears.
They ma)' be rooted direct!)' in pots (see
p.96) or a sun tunnel (see p.39) . Take
hardwood cuuings as shown (see right ).
Prune back, lift, and divide overgrown
clu,nps (see p.101). Spring-sown seeds
need warm , then co ld , stratification (see
p.103) to germinate the following spring.
SYRINGA LILAC
Sonwooo curnNGS m hue
spring U
ROOT CUTTINGS io autumn '
SEEDS in autumn or :,,pring 1
LAYERING m spring 1
GRAFTING in l ate winter and
mid· Lo l::tte summer !
S_\'l i11gt1 "''xcms Only cuttings fro111
nonripened wood of
·r ,cside111 Grc,•r'
the deciduous shrubs in this genus root,
and seeds ma)' be unreliable. Layering
was the standard method until mist
units arrived and is still easiest for the
gardener. Lilacs are easy to graft, but
suckers ma)' be a problem. New plan ts
take three years or more to Oower.
CUTTINGS
Take stem cunings (see p.100) fro,n 2in
(5cm) softwood shoots. With hormone
rooting c01npound, free-draining medium,
and bottom heat of 59°F (15°C), rooting
takes 6-8 weeks. Root cuttings grow as
easily as suckers: take as for Celas1n,s
(see p.122) , but insert sing!)' in pots.
SEEDS
To ensure even gennination, sow fresh
seeds (see p.104) to chill over winter
( see p.103). In earl)' spring, appl)' 68°F
(20°C) bottom heat. If spring-sown
seeds ( see p.104) germinate poorly, chill
over winter to germinate next spring.
LAYERING
Si1nple la)'er (see p.106) with a 2in
(Sc,n) tongue; lift in the following
spring.
GRAFTING
Grow 5yringa vulgaris rootstocks from
root cuuings and cut back to 2in (Sein)
LO avoid suckering. Apical-wedge graft
(see p.108) with a 2-4in (5-lOctn)
scion. In winter, whip graft (see p.109)
onto bare-root two-year-old seedlings.
142
HARDWOOD CUTTINGS OF SNO\.VBERRY
Hold 10-1 5 ripe shoo1s of cw-rc111 smso11s gmw1/r
1 (here ofSyrnphoricarpos albus) wgell,cr aud cu, imo
sections, each d1r lengrh of the prnucrs. Tir rhc cw tings
into bundles. lii ui so that they <u-e c~II llic smne length.
TAMARIX TAMAR/SK
SOFTWOOD CUTTINGS from 1:ue spring to
midsummer U
HARDWOOD CUTilNGS m winter 1
Seeos in spri ng !
The deciduous and evergreen shrubs in
this genus have weak roots, which can
be a problem with cuttings. Plants
mature in three years.
CUTTINGS
Softwood cuttings (see p.100), 2-4in
(5-lOcm) long, root easil)' in free-
draining medium , but foliage rots if kept
humid for too long. Root singly in cells
or pots LO avoid weak roots dropping off
when potting rooted cuttings.
Try rooting hardwood cuuings (see
p.98) in deep tra)'S in a frost-free place,
then grow on for a )'Car to allow a 1nuch
bigger root system Lo develop. Then pot
plants directly into 5\l, -7in (14-19cm)
pots, or plant out in the garden.
SEEDS
Store seeds extracted from dry capsu les
in a refrigerator (see p.102) to preserve
their viabilit)', Spring-sown seeds (see
pp.103-4) shou ld germinate readil)'.
T IBOUCHINA
GREENWOOD CUTTINGS in summer U
HARDWOOD CUTTINGS in winter'
SEEDS in spring u 4in ( lOc,n) pieces and root in perlite
The evergreen shrubs in this genus root
easily from hardwood cuttings outdoors
(see p.98) in free-draining soils in warm
areas; otherwise, they need 59-68°F
( l 5-20°C) bottom heat. Sideshoots of
greenwood root well: insert nodal stem-
tip cuuings (see p.101) in free-draining
medium with bottom heat of 59-68°F
(15-20°C). Rooting takes 6-10 weeks.
Germ inate seeds (see p.104) at 68-77°F
c20-2s0 c).
Fill a pot with a free-drai11ing
2 medium (here e,111111 parrs pouiug
mix and grit) . lnsc,t the bundles st> rliat
die lower rwlf to two tliinls are buried.
Label. l11 e11rly sin i11g. plm11 0111 rl,c
romed cwrings singly to g,vw 0 11.
VACCINIUM
S OFTWOOD OR SEMI- RIPE CUTTINGS from hue spring
t() late <;um mer Ul
HARDWOOD CUTTINGS i n \VlllLCr u
R HIZOME CUTTINGS in spnng '
DIVISION m aulumn and spri ng ,
SEEDS in late wio1cr ji
LAYERING in early Spnng i
This genus includes evergreen and
deciduous shrubs, man)' with edible
fruit . They include bilberries (Vaccinium
myrtillus, V. caespitosum) and whortle-
berries ( V. arc1oscapl1ylos, V. parvifolium,
V. mynillus). The most popular of the
genus, blueberries, are not easy but may
be grown in several ways; cranberries
are prostrate and suited to la)'ering.
CUTTINGS
Highbush blueberries (V. corymbosum)
root best from '/2--¾in ( l-2c1n) softwood
shoots ( see p.100) or 4-6in (I0-15cm)
midsummer cuuings ( see p.95) . Retain
the Lop 3-4 leaves; root in free-draining
medium at 64-68°F (18-20°C) . Pot in
spring and grow on for a year.
Evergreens root best from semi-ripe
material (see p.95). In areas with long,
hot sum1ners, hardwood cuttings (see
p.98) of deciduous species can be taken
from full)' ripened wood. Root in a frost-
free place or in deep pots.
Cut rhizomes of lowbush blueberries
( V. angustifolium var. laevifoliurn) into
with 68°F (20°C) bouom heat, as for
Berge11ia (p.190).
OTHER METHODS
Divide mature clumps of the cowberr)'
( V. vitis-idaea) and replant (see p.101 ).
Surface-sow seeds on acidic (ericaceous)
soil mix; cover with fine!)' ground
sphagnum 1noss, and keep 1noist until
gennination. Silnple or self la)'er (see
pp.106-i) cranberries (I( macrocarpon)
and species that are difficult LO root.
 SYMPHO RI CARPOS - VlT EX

VIBURNUM VISCUM MISTLETOE

GREENWOOD CUTTINGS from l:nc spnng 10 early
summer U
SEM1- AIPE CUTTINGS from midsummer 10 ;lUIUtnll U
HARDWOOD CUTTINGS in winter.
Seeos in :1u1umn or m :,prmg i,
LAYERING m spnng 1
GRAFTING in late summer 1
The evergreen and deciduous shrubs
in this genus fall into groups for
propagation. Plants nower at various
ages, from 2- 3 years onward.
CUTTINGS
Greenwood cuuings (see p.101) are best
for Vibun1111n carlesi i cuhivars and
deciduous winter- and summer-nowering
viburnums. For the former, take early
cullings; overwintering can be difficu lt.
lnsen nodal stem-tip cuuings, with a
pair of leaves and three nodes, in free-
draining medium. Halve large leaves.
Hormone rooting compound improves
rooting 10 4-6 weeks. Root vigorous
material directly in pots (see p.96) . Pinch
out terminal nower buds on new plants.
Evergree ns root well from semi-ripe
nodal or internodal cuuings (see p.95).
Hormone rooting compound and gentle
SOWING VIBURNUM SEEDS
bouom heat speeds roo1ing 10 6-8
weeks. Deciduous winter-nowering
species also rooL from hardwood
cuuings (see p.98) if kepl frost-free
and rooted in deep polS at 54-68°F
(12-20°C). Ln1ernodal hardwood
cuuings of evergreens , no more than
2½in (6ctn) long, root well in 6-8 weeks
in rockwool. Bouom heat of 54-68°F
(12-20°C) and humidity speed rooling.
Keep the rockwool moist at all litnes.
SEEDS
Sow seeds of species fresh (see below);
they germinate more quickly with a
period of warm, then cold, stratil'ication
( see p. JOJ); seeds sown in spring (see
p. I 04) germina1c in the following year.
LAYERING
Many, especially the V carlesii group,
may be simple layered (see p.106) .
GRAFTING
Whip graft (see p.109) scions of
V carlesii and V x burhwoodii onto pol-
grown V lantana or V opulus seedling
roo1s1ocks. Suckering can be a probletn.
SEEDS in early spring U
These parasitic, evergreen shrubs ma)'
be found growing in apple orchards.
Choose a mature, strong tree that will
not be weakened by the parasite, of
apple, ash, cedar, hawthorn, larch,
linden , oak, or poplar. Squash some
fresh berries and insert the very sticky
pulp directly into a wound on the branch
on which the misiletoe is 10 grow (see
below). Seed germ ination and growlh for
the first couple of years arc slow.
PLANTING MISTLETOE SEEDS
Sdecr a brcmd, (l,ere of au a1>ple 1ree) 4itt
1 (10cm) or more itt gir,h aud 5ft (1.5111) from
the ground. Mahe rwo short cross cuts in rite.
barl1: lif1 11,e jlcrps; push i11 some seeds (inse1).

Sq1wsl1 bt·n'it's
m 1x1hn of luu1d
Co\'Cr wirh ¼in
2 (5111111) gravel
tt11d label. Leave
itt a coltl place
ro cncourngc
the snds w
gcn11i11cuc.
'fhis ral,es
In ltue mHtmm, st1uash freshly collected ,ipe 6-18 111011rhs. CO\'cr the wound with a small piece of
lPrepare
frnirs (here of Viburnum be1ulifolium).
a pm soil·basccl pouiug
'frm,splm11 siugly
;,uo pots and grow
2 burlap Or' moss mid sccu ,-e with rwine or
wirl, mix. raffia. 'fhis will pro1ec1 rhc seeds from birds a11d
Scmtcr the pulp and seeds evenly on the surface. 011 for rwo years. from dryiug ou1 11111il 1hcy germiuarc.

OTHER SHRUBS AND CLIMBING PLANTS

Sl'MPl.OCOS Roo, greenwood
nodal cuttings as for Pyracmuha
(sec p.138) l- Sow seeds as for
Srapl,ylea (see p.14 J ) U-
SYNGONIUM Take sofiwood s1e111-
1ip (see p.101) or leaf-bud
cullings (see 1>.97) in summer l-
TECOM,\NTtR Sow seeds al
64-70°F (18-21°C) in spring
(seep. J04) l- Roo1 semi-ripe
cuuings (sec p.95) wi1h bouom
heat in summer,. Serpentine
layer (seep. I07) in spring!-
TELOPEA Ro0< semi-ripe nodal
s1em-1ip cullings (see pp.9.5 ""cl
rot) in late summer and aulUmn
in rree·draining medium U ,
Seeds have low viability: sow
fresh, 2-3 seeds in a 3'/2in (9cm)
poi a, 77°F (25°C) (see p.104) U-
Thin 10 one seedling: plan, ou,
after n,,;i Oowcr in 2-3 years.
TERNSTROEt-.llA Root greenwood
to semi.ripe nodal cuttings (sec
pp. JOI attd 95) in summer and
autumn in free-draining medium
l-Seeds in au1umn (sec p.103) l-
TEUCRIU" Softwood 10 semi-ripe
nodal cuuings (see pp.100-1 mul
95) from summer to autumn 1·
Sow seeds in spring (see p.104) a,
68°F (20"C) l-
THUNBERGIA Greenwood nodal
cuuings (seep. l Ol) 1hroughou1
summer!, Seeds in spring (set
p.104) a, 68-77°F (20-2s c) l-
0
THv"us See Culinary Herbs,
p.291.
TRACI IELOSPERMU~I Root green•
wood to semi-ripe nodal or
in1crnodal cuuings (sec pp.IOI
and 95) in summer and autumn
wi1h l 5-20°C (59-68°F) bollom
hea, l, Simple or scrpcminc layer
(sec pp.106-7) spring l-
UGNt Take semi-ripe cullings as
for Callisremou (see p.12 J) l-
ULEX Greenwood and hardwood
cullings as for Genisw (see p.129)
l- Soak seeds in ho, wa,er and
sow in autumn or spring (sec
l'P· J03-4) with no bouom heal l-
V1NCA Take greenwood and
sem i-ripe imcrnodal cu11ings (see
l'P· JO J C111d 95) at any lime. For
bushier plants, insen a1 least one
and a half nodes below medium
surface~ new shoots then develop
above and below surface. Avoid
material wi1h diseased black
stem lesions. Divide clumps (see
p. IO I) in early spring!-
VITEX Roo1 greenwood to semi-
ripe cuuings (see pp.101 aud 95)
in summer wi1h no bouom
hea, l- Sow seeds in spring or
au,umn (see pp.103-4) in a fros1-
free place l-

143
A-Z OF SH RUBS ANO CLIMBING PLANTS
VITIS G RAPE
SoFTWOOO OR SEM l·RIPE CUTTINGS from la1e spring
to midi,ummer l
H ARDWOOD CUTTINGS in late :.lUlumn Or' winter'
SEED in spring 1
LAYERING in spring.
G RAFTlNG in mid· 10 l;atc- winter JU
Genus of deciduous twining climbers.
Many wine and dessert grapes are
cultivars of Viris vi11ifera. There are
also hybrids between V. vinifera and
V. labrusca. Most species root we ll from
cuttings. V. coigneriae is difficult to root
but responds well to layering. Grafting
vines can be used 10 increase vigor or
resistance 10 pests.
Take softwood or semi-ripe nodal
cullings (see pp.100 and 95), 3in (8cm)
long with three nodes, from close-
noded, th inner growth, wh ich roots
more q uickl)'. Reduce foliage on large-
leaved species by up to a hal f. Apply
ho rmone rooting co1npound. Rooting
takes about four weeks. Harden new
growth before winter.
For all hardwood cuttings (see above
right and p.98), check that the wood is
still green in the cen ter, since dieback
can be a proble,n. In late autumn, before
winter cold sets in , prepare vine eyes by
making a cut above a bud and another
STANDARD HARDWOOD CUTTI NGS OF V!TIS
Root tl,e cu11ings (here ofVitis vinifera) in
1 soil-based potting mix in a frost-free place
with bottom heat of 70°1' (2J°C). A prop,1gating
blanket is ideal for l<ll'ge numbers.
W EIGELA
SoFTWOOO OR SEM1-RIPE CUTTINGS from la,c
spring 10 midsummer 1
H ARDWOOD CUTTINGS in wimer'
SEEDS in spring l
These deciduous sh rubs root very easily
from cunings. Take softwood and sem i-
ripe nodal stem cuui ngs (see pp.100
and 95), 2½-3in (6-8cm) long. Rooting
takes about four weeks. Consider
rooting directly in pots (see p.96) or in
144
STANDARD
ROOTED CUTTINGS
CUTT ING
Hardwood cuui11gs may
be wlum in 1wo lengths:
with 3-4 buds or wi1h
one bucl (vine eyes). The
laucr root less readily
but yield a greater
number of cuuiugs.
VINE EYE I W1s1cri,1
2in (5cm) below the bud. Insert in deep
trays vertically with the bud on 1he
medium surface, and root in a frost-free
place o r with bo nom heat o r 64°F (l8°C).
In early winier, 1ake 2-3ft (60-90cm)
cuui ngs fro,n prunings, and lie them in
bund les. Heel in, in a sheltered place, 10
two-thirds o r their depth. In mid- 10 late
winier, prepare standard-length cuuings
(see above) from the pru ni ngs and root
in pots (see below) .
Sow seeds after a short period of
chilling (see pp.103-4). Serpentine layer
(see p.107) V. coigneliae.
\'lhip-and-tongue graft (see p.59)
one o r two scions o nto su iiable stocks
in areas affected by the vine phylloxera
(a serious pest affecting roots and
leaves). Use the same g raft for weak-
growing cultivars.
Ontoriwo
cuuirigs may
fail to root
\Vheu the cuuings brcah into bud i11 spring
2 (above left), poi 11,em singly (above
center). Grow rhem on until the following
spring (above right) before planting them out.
a su n tunnel (see p.39). In colder areas,
semi-ripe cullings root well in cold
frames. Hardwood cunings (see p.98)
may be rooted in a sheltered place or
in deep containers.
Extract seeds from the d ry capsules
and sow in spring as for Phlomis (see
p.137) or in sheltered seedbed. They
should germ inate in a few weeks and
produce flowering plants in 2-3 years.
WISTERIA
S OFTWOOD CLJ'TT"INGS from lale
spring to mid.summer 1
H AROWOOO CUTTINGS in
winter!
R OOT CUTTINGS in late
winter J
S eeos m c~1rly spring,
LAYERING in spring'
GRAFTING in 1:ue winier•
xformosa These vigorous,
deciduous, twining cli1nbers are best
increased by layering and cuuings.
CUTTINGS
Take softwood cunings (see p.100),
2½- 3in (6-8cm) long from less vigorous
sideshoots with closely spaced nodes.
Rooting la~s 6-8 weeks. Harden the
cullings and encou rage good root
growth before winter. New shoots are
unlikely to appear un til the spring.
Hard wood cuttings (see p.98) root bes1
in a sheltered place or in deep pots in
a frost-free g reenhouse. Given bouom
heat of 54-68°F (l2-20°C), root
cuuings (see p.158) 'f.-l '/2in (2- 4c1n )
long produce new shoots in 4-5 weeks.
SEEDS
Seed-raised plants are of varied quality
and take years to flower and so are only
usefu l as rootstocks. Soak d ry seeds for
24 hours before sowing (see pp.103-4).
LAYERING
The long shoots produced annually are
ideal for serpentine layering (seep. l 07).
G RAFTING
Apical-wedge g raft (see p.108) o nto
two-year-old Wisteria sinensis seedlings,
or onto lengths of root (see below).
Plunge the graft into moist peal, keep
hu,nid, and provide 59- 68°F (I 5-20°C)
bouom heat The un ion should callus in
3- 6 weeks. Harden , then pot when the
buds begin 10 swell.
ROOT GRAFTING
Tal1e a11 Sin (20cm) length of
root from \\listeria sinensis.
Cut straiglit across 1/ie 1op of
the root, then mal:e a l ¼in
(Jc,n) long, vertical CUI i11t0
the center of tlie root. Pre,,are
a scion from the previous
years wood, up to 6in
(15cm) long ancl with 2-3
buds. Cut tl,e base into a
Jin (8011) wedge (see
insel). Push 1)10 scion
into the stod1;
secure wirh a ¾in
(4mm) wide
rubber band.
 VI TI$ - Z ENOBIA

YUCCA
SoFTWOOO CUTTINGS from late spring to summer j
Buo cum NGS in early spring,
D1v1s10N in late winter and earlr spring ,i
S EEDS in Spring '
The evergreen shrubs in this genus
make striking specimens. WiLh Lhe
hardier, sLemless species, it is possible
10 propagate from the swollen buds or
"toes" produced on Lhe rooLS, or from
suckers. Wi Lh the tender, sLem1ned
species, you can use s1e1n cuuings. New
planLS will be a good size in 2-3 years.
CUTTINGS
Young tender species often produce
small shoots from the main stem Lhat
can be used as softwood cuuings (see
p.100). RooLing takes 8-12 weeks.
For the tender Yucca elephantipes,
you can take stem cuuings from mature
shooLS (see below). Cuuings n1ay be
placed horizontally in trays 10 induce
young shoo LS, if none are available, for
use as softwood cuttings. If the cuuings
arc 10 be grown on, they are best
inserted vertically.
For root cunings of hardier, stemless
species, uncover the rooLS of a mature
plant, o r lift the entire plant, in early
spring and cut off the swollen buds
(see below left). If the buds are 1101 yet
breaking, d ust with fungicide. Insert
Lhcse individ uall)' into 3½in (9cm) pots,
and cover well with soil mix. By autumn,
you will have a well-established plant
ready for planting out o r growing on for
another year in a 7in (19c,n) pot.
DIVISION
For many of the s,naller hardier, stemless
species, division or suckers (see below
right) works well. Shade new planLS to
prevent them fro1n being scorched by
the sun un til established.
SEEDS
Soaking yucca seeds for 24 hours before
sowing (see pp.103-4) can speed
germination, but is noLnecessary.
Provide bouo,n heat or 59°F ( 15°C).

TAKING YUCCA BUD CUTTI NGS DIVISION OF YUCCA SUCKERS

Uncover rJ1e roots of a mature
1plwu (here Yucca naccida).from
Remove swollen buds (toes)
die parent rhizome. c11tri11g
srraiglu across die b<lse of rhe ,oc.
Po, eac/1 IOC singly i11 a free-
2 draining medium, cH twice its
dep1h. \Vaicr; label. \Virh 00110111
hem of 59-68°F (15-20-C), rhe ,oc
will root in 2-3 weeks (sec insel).
111 spring. carefully uncover 1he
1 b11se of a suclier (liere of Yucca
rilamemosa). Cul ii off ar rlrc b11sc,
whcr'e it joins rhe p<1renr rhizome.
Dusr die wounds wirh fungicide.
Pot rhe sucker si11gfy in a
2 Jree•draining medium, such as
equal parts soilless porting mix cmd
fine gril. Label. Keep Cl! 70-F
(21°C) u111il roo1ed (I 2 weel1s).

TAKIN G STEM CU TTINGS FROM A YUCCA

S1rip 1111
2 foliage from
1l1e sum. Cur rhc
stem into cuu ings,
11bour 4i11 (10cm)
long (sec inset);
uim altenuucly Press rhe curri11gs horizonwlly i1110 a 1ray of

1 Remove" 1-3ft (30-90cm)

section from a maltm_ • stem
below a node and
above a node wirl1
3 nioisr soilless rooting medium so they art
half burird, or insert single luUings verticalfy
(l,ere of Yucca clephantipcs), clean, shar11 i1110 J½i11 (9cm) pois. Keer> humid a, 70-75°F
culling between 11,e le<lf nodes. pruners. (2J-24°C) 1m1il new shoots appear.

OTHER SHRUBS AND CLIMBING PLANTS

WESTRINGIA Root greenwood
and semi•ripe cuttings (see
pp.IOI and 95) in summer and
autumn in a very open medium
with bonom heat of 59-68°F
(15-20"C): do not allow the
foliage to get 100 wet u.
WtGANDIA Take. greenwood
cunings (see p.101) in early
summer i . Sow seeds in spring
or under cover in winter (see
p.104) at 55-64°F (13-18°C) , .
XANTHOCERAS Take root cuttings
as for Celas1rus (see p.122) , . Sow
seeds in autumn (see p.103) ,.
XANTHORHIZA Take greenwood
nodal cullings (see p. IOI) in
early sumrner *· Divide clumps
(see p. IOI) in spring and
autumn ,. Sow seeds in autumn
(seep. I 03) , .
ZANTHOXYLUM Take root cuttings
as for Celas1nis (see p.122) ,.
Divide rooted suckers (see
p.101) in early spring,. Sow
seeds in autumn (see p.103) , .
Z ENOBIA Root semi-ripe nodal
cuttings (see p.95) in late
sumrner in free.draining
medium at 59-68°F (15-20°C) , .
Sow seeds as for Rhodode11dm11
(see p.138) , .

145
 ERENNIALS
Propagating this hugely varied group of plants enables the gardener to
keep existing plants healthy and vigorous, replace short-lived perennials
as they fail, and build up stocks for an attractive border display
he term "perennial" strictly describes any
T plant that tnakes growth for three years or
more, but in horticulture it is applied to non-
woody perennial plants. Many make tota lly new
herbaceous growth before flowering and seeding
each year and die back in winter, especially in
colder regions, but some are evergreen.
Perennials fonn a group of enonnous value
to the gardener, enco1npassing not only traditional
border plants but alpines, wa ter garden plants,
ferns, and ornamental grasses including bamboos.
Orchids and bromeliads are also perennials,
grown mostly in warm-climate gardens or as
house- or greenhouse plants in colder areas.
These popular groups of plants are generally
propagated using some specialized techn iques.
The majority of perennials tnake ne\v growth
from the base, or cro\vn; their roots or rhizomes
spread (unless confined in containers) and the
plants naturally form clu1nps, n1aking division
an obvious choice for propagation. Using division,
the gardener can not only reinvigorate mature
plants but acquire several small portions of
the same plant, cotnplete with their own roots
and shoots, which can in1n1ediately be planted
else\vhere in the garden as new plants.
Commercial growers take very tnany small
LATE-SUMMER POLLINATORS
801'1 1/1e flower·fo,·m and color ra11gc of Aster
attract bees tuul butterflies late in the sec,s011.
These />la111s be11efir from regul<1r; even a1111ual
division, flowering more freely and bei11g less
prone lO i11feclion by powcle,y milde,v.
divisions from stock plants and grow them on
in controlled environtnents; gardeners can often
adopt these methods.
To give itnpact to plantings, perennials are
often required in quantity - seeds or cuttings
provide the tneans. Many perennials are easy to
raise from seeds (spores can si1nilarly be used for
ferns) , bu t ne\\1 plants take longer to flower, and
ho1ne-gathered seeds do not always cotne true to
type. Cuttings raised in suitable conditions offer
the best way of obtaining offspring that are clones
of the parent, including cultivars with s pecial
characteristics such as particularly colored or
large or double flo\vers; plants bred not to flower,
such as the lawn chamomile 'Treneague'; foliage
plants with finely cut, differently colored, or
variegated leaves; single-sex plants;
and sterile hybrids.
DRI ED THISTLE SEEDS
Lille numy sea hoJlies, Eryngium
giganteum docs nm rec,dily tolerate
root disturbance and is better raised
from seeds. II is more poetically
lmow11 as ,\.liss \ViUmottS Ghost,
because it would mysteriously appear
in e-very garden this Victorian plantswoman \,
visited: she scauered seeds of this, her
favo,ite fl owe,; wherever sl1e went.
147
PERENNIALS
DIVISION
he easiest method of vegetative
T propagation for perennials is by
division. It is the method most commonly
used by gardeners for rejuvenating an
old plant while providing extra plants
and commercially for propagating many
garden perennials in large numbers.
!vlost perenn ials should be divided
every th ree to four years 10 keep them
healthy and vigorous. Most of the late
sum1ner-Oowering, fibro us-rooted
plants, such as hardy chrysan themum
cu ltivars and Michael mas daisies (Aster),
Oower best when divided an nually or
biennially. Perennials such as bearded
irises produce new rhizomes each year.
The clumps should be spli t and the
divided rhizomes replanted every three
years o r so.
However, a few genera, such as
peon ies, Podophyllum, ai1d 10 some
extent hostas, prefer to be left alone and
should be divided o nly for propagation.
Plants are divided in autumn o r early
spring, when they are not in active
growth. Spring- and early summer-
DIVID ING PERENN IALS WITH MATURE CROWNS
Divide pJants with a s1,reading roo1stock,
1 such as this l-lelianthus, early in spring.
jusr as 1l1e new growth is brealiing. Lift the
plant wi1/1 c~ Jori:, inserting it well ah'ay from
the cmhit1 1<> avoid clanwging 1/te roois.
Pull the di\'isions into smellier pieces with
3 your hands. Mahe sure rhm each fJir.cc has
c, good root system and several new shoots.
Discanl 1he old, woo,ly center and any otlicr
pieces without plemy of strong, new grow1J1.
148
bloomers such as lily-of-1he-valle)'
(Co11vallaria), Epimedi 11111, and Uvularia
are left until after Oowering. If necessary,
most perennials can be divided at any
time, except during hot, dry periods and
freezing winter weather.
Early-summer division of some
perennials works well , for example
Puh11011ari<1 and early-blooming bearded
irises. At this time of year, new roolS
grow and any damage heals qu ick!)',
reducing the risk of rot. Po tting the
divisions may help them establish; keep
1hem shaded. Some eariy-Oowering
plants, such as hellebores and peon ies,
fo nn the followi ng year's Oower buds
in mid- 10 late summer; divide these in
late sum mer o r early autum n to ensure
Oowers the next spring. All plants that
are divided in summer shou ld be
watered thoroughly until they establish.
The secret of successful division at
any time is always 10 have more root
than s hoot, to cul away excess foliage,
and to keep the divisions moist and
sheltered until established.
Shafie Ilic roo1s free of loose soil. Divicle
2 1he pla111 into smaller pieces by chopping
through rhc w<>ody c:enter with a Splule. T,y to
avoid damaging the fres h, young growth around
1l1e perimeter of 11,e plant.
Replant the di\'itkd sections immediately,
4 rhe
apart IO
same depll1as before, spacing them well
allOIV for
new gm.. ,h. Finn i11 lightly
10
cmd wcuer tlwmughly, w iling care 11ot to wa.sh
oway any soil ,md expose die roots.
PREPARING THE SOIL
Division provides a good opportunil)'
to improve the soil. Bulky organic matter,
be it com post, leaf mold, or well-rotted
manure, can be worked in where
plants have been lifted. lf replanting in
the same site, add a liule slow- release
fertilizer such as bone,n eal to give a
good start 10 the new plants. Replanting
divisions in a di fferen t si te, however,
helps maintain vigor and counteract
any build up of pests or of diseases in
the soil.
S EPARATING PERENNIALS
Not all plants need 10 be lifted 10
separate them. A number of perennials
naturally prod uce new plant lets arou nd
the parent, and these can s imply be
dug up and re,noved withou t lifting the
parent plant. Some, such as strawberries,
produce rooted runners (see p.150).
Peren nials such as bugle (Ajuga) form
mats of individual roseues; lift a mat
and pull it apart gen tly into individual
roseues or lift just a few from the edge
SEPARATING CLUMPS
WITH FIB ROUS ROOTS
SMA LL PLANTS To divi<le a small perennial
(here a gentian), lif111,e clump and ge111ly
pull it C1pan, using 1wo hand forlls held bacl,
IO bacll. If 11,e plw,1 is very co11ges1ecl, cur ii
into JJieces witli a sharp lmife.
L ARGE PLANTS Some forge perc1111iC1ls
,lo not have woody cmwns but become more
and more congested at tlte cenrer. Divide sucl1
11la111s (here a clay lily) with two forks helcl
bacl, to bacll. Lever the fo rl,s baclnvard a nd
fon,•ard to loosc11 the roots.
 DIVISION

DIVIDI NG RHIZOMATOUS PERENNIALS

For perennials llurt ha"e a rhich
1 rl1iio111c (ltere 1111 i1is). /if, 1/re
whole dump wirh a g<1r<lc11 ftJrk.
Sl1ake 1/,c mots free "f soil a11cl
brtal~ rlie clwnp inro ,uanage<1ble
pieces wirh your lu111ds.
\Vitlt a clean. sliarp lmife, cut
2 the new, young rhizomes from
rite dump. M11/1e sure 1/w1 eaclt
picct· has ,, good roo, system and
11 fa11 of leaves. Discard the olcl,
exlwustecl d1izomes in ,1,e dump.
3 Dust tlie cut surfaces of rl,c
rl,izomes wit/1 a fungicide to
prevent rot. Trim the roots by up w
one-third. To prevent wind rodi on
irises, lrim tl1e leaves to about 6in
(15cm) itt a 111i1ei~d slta11e.
4 Plant out the divisions. Seule
them into the soH so that die
iop of 1l1e rhizome is just bm-dy
covrn~d wid1soif. Finn in well and
water regularly until eswblfslu:cl.

of the mat. While this is not division
in the strict sense, the results are
similar: the spread of the parent is
restricted, and new plants obtained.
DIVIDING PERENNIALS
\'lhen lifting plants for division, shake
or wash them free of soil, using a hose
or a bucket of water. Clean ing the
roots10ck reveals any natural lines of
division, so the plant can be split easily
with minimum damage to roots, buds,
or shoots.
Pulling the plants apart rather 1han
cuuing them does less damage. Small
plants such as Heucliera and primroses
and those wi1h a loose clump of
underground sten1s, such as Dicemra
formosa , Epimedium pitrnatum, and
Geranium sa11gui11etm1, can be pulled
apart into pieces. With some plants
that have a large mass of roots, such
as lily-of-the-valley, a hand fork is very
useful for teasing out small pieces.
For larger fibrous-rooted perennials,
the traditional method of splining
clumps using back-Lo-back garden forks
(see facing page, below) is hard Lo beat.
Perennials with a tight woody crow11
(Astilbe, hellebores, Geranium pratense
cultivars, and Trollius) , rhizomatous
perennials, and 1hose with fleshy roots,
for example delphiniums, herbaceous
peonies, and Rl1e11m, need to be cul
apart. A spade or an old, strong knife
is ideal.
As much as possible, care shou ld
be taken LO avoid damaging the roots
during division . Treatment of root
damage differs, depending on whether
the perennial is a dicotyledon or a
monocotyledon (see page 17). Most
perennials are dicotyledons; if any
damaged or oversized roots are trimmed
regenerate damaged roots. Cul such
rooLS back LO the crown LO encourage
formation of new roots.
The exposed roots of divided plants
shou Id never be allowed 10 dry out. If
there is to be a delay between lifting
and replanting, the divisions should be
heeled in , either in a spare corner or a
box of moist soil mix or peal. Plastic
SIO rage crates are ideal for this purpose.
CARE OF DIVISIONS
As a general n1le, try 10 divide plants
into good-sized ponions, each wilh
vigorous, new growth. lf a plant is
divided into many sma ll pieces, the
divisions will lake longer to mature LO
flowering size than a few, larger pieces.
Established clumps may have woody
centers; these pans lack vigor and arc
best pu1 on the com post pile. Also,
discard any damaged portions.
Once the parent plan l has been
divided , trim off any dead or damaged
material (see facing page). Use a clean,
sharp knife LO avoid introducing disease
into cuts. Badly damaged roots or shoots
can also be treated with a fungicide LO
protect against rot entering the wounds.
Vigorous, healthy, and relatively
undamaged divisions with three
lo five shoots and good roots
).
::x -
,. '
Topgrowth is
srxir.sc mid
m1l1ctdthy
can be replanted immediately (see facing
page) or lined our for growing on in a
nursery bed. Plant divisions in a nursery
bed a1 about one-half to two-thi rds of
the usual spacing appropriate for a plant
in the open garden.
Poi smaller pieces individual!)•, each
in a pot just larger than its roots, and
place them in a sheltered place lo grow
on until they are established. Be aware
though 1ha1 many plants (particularly
those with fleshy roots) 1ha1 are fully
hardy in the ground will die if their
roots are exposed LO severe cold while in
pots. In colder climates, therefore, they
will need LO be plunged or taken under
cover (see pp.42-43) over winter. \'lhen
they are of a reasonable size, replant the
divisions into prepared soil.
Very small divisions of hardy
perennials should be encouraged Lo put
on as much growth as possible before
the end of the growing season. Poi them
in a fertile, free-draining soil mix, such
as one pan fine gril LO two pans soil-
based polling mix, which will provide
nutrients for growth, and place under
cover where rhe temperature is higher
than ou1doors. This will extend their
growing season. Provide shade in
summer to protect the young plants
fr01n scorch , and keep well watered.
BENEFITS OF DIVISION
Lefl to their own devices,
perennials sucl1 as the
Hcuchera shown liere can
deteriorate in vigor and
<~ppearance as old. woody
•.
• stems develop a1 the base of the
pla11t. Flowering perfon11a11cc
£an also be iml'aired. To
maintain the plant <H its l,est,
dh ide it every Jou,· years or so.
1

neally after division, rool growth should

cominue unabated. Monocotyledonous
perennials - in which single, large leaves,
rather than leafy stems, arise from 1he Old, woody stems
crown, such as with hostas, rhizomatous prod1Cct few 11ew lt'm'es
irises, and Lysicl1ito11 - are unable to

149
PERENNIALS

SINGLE BUD DIVISIONS SINGLE BUD DI VISIONS

In commercial propaga1ion, some genera Creq,i11g 8udisso-011g
are reduced to single buds to maximize roo1stod~ ,md lu:,1hhy
yields of new plants identical to the ( d1izomf)
parent. It is most often practiced on
monoco1s such as Agapantlws, daylilies
(Hemeroccillis), and hostas but also on
many other perennial cultivars. Best
results are obtained from division in :,,-ll-- Go0tl root S)'Stem.
spring just as the plants start into growth. much bigga iJum shoot
Single bud division (see right) can be
undertaken by the gardener. Make sure
that a good portion of root is 1aken wi th
each division, and avoid inflicling any PERENNIALS \VITH CREEPING
more damage than is necessary. Grow FLESIIY-ROOTED PLANTS Pull "I""' the Crt!WII, ROOTSTOCKS Cw Iii, rootstock
1hem on in a sheltered nursery bed, or making sure each 11icce (here of a hosta) Jws" (here of Veronica aus1 riaca)
pol them into deep 3½in (9c1n) or, for singJc, plump bud cmd a gootl roor system. Linc into sections. C<ld1 wid1 a strong
larger plants, 5in (13cm) pots, making out rite di\iisions in ll nttr5Cl)1 bed m 1he same bucl cmd a g,10cl root system. Jf
sure that each bud is covered to the depth as before ancl 6in (15011) llpcll't, or JIOI. necessa,)t, trim the longer roots.
sa,ne depth as it was before. Greater
proiection fro,n extreme temperatures PROPAGATION OF ROOTING RUNNERS
(see pp.38-45) is needed for these
divisions in the earl)' s1ages. I
If more plants are wanted quick!)', t
single fleshy buds of plants such as
hostas may be divided in half vertically
through the bud crown, but this does
encourage rot; absolutely scrupulous
hygiene is essen1ial. Pot halved buds in
deep 5in (13cm) pois and give bouom
heal (see p.'11) to increase growth and
help the buds establish quickly.

DIVIDING CONTAINER-GROWN PLANTS /

Division of container-grown plants is
usually ver)' successful. Plants with
rooting stems, or runners, such as the
1nother of thousands saxifrage (see
right), need not be removed from their Prepare a Jin (8crn) pot of moist rooting Once rooted, usually afier a few weeJ,s,
pots a1 all but can be encouraged to
develop new plantlets by pegging the
1mediu111. Peg a ,·,mner (ltere ofSaxirraga
stolonifera) down so thm rite base of the
2 sever the nmner dose lO the new plm11 .
Grow 011 the plcmrlc1 until 1he roors Jill the
nmners into small pots of soil mix. platulet is in contact with the soil mix smface. /JOI , then pot into soil mix.
Fleshy-rooted plants such as spider
plants (see below, 1igl11) actually divide DIVID ING A CONTAINER-GROWN PLANT
and reestablish better if container-
grown, because it avoids the damage to
the roots caused by lifting from the ---....._
border. They can be divided al any
time, but ideally after flowering or
when dormant.
To divide a container-grown
perennial, knock it out of 1he pot,
then wash the soil mix from the roots,
if preferred, to reveal the na1ural lines of
division. Pull 1he plant into good-sized
pieces (usually 1hree or four). With
potbound plants, it may be necessary to
cu1 through the crown with a large knife Water tl,e 11Jant well (here
and tease the roots apart from the 1op. 1Chlorophytum comosum)
Be careful no1 to cut into and damage and let ir clrain. Slide the plc,111
the roots. from tlie pot aru/ slwl,e off the
Trim any damaged roots on the soil 111ix. Loosen 1he roo1ball
divisions, according to whether the Jro111 below; gently pry aparr.
plant is a dicotyledon or monocotyledon
(see p.149) , and pot singly. Use a soil- Trim any diseased or damaged thiclt
based potting mix, which provides
s1ability to the root ball and consistent
2roois from eacl1 division, le,1vi11gjibmus
feeding roors i111acr. Pot singly into 1101s
Cul tltmu,ged
roms off 1hfs
ttlOtlOCOt with
levels of nutrients and is easily reweued abou, ¾in (2cm) wicler than tire root ball dean. sharp knifr
if the soil mix dries out. (see inseL), 11sing a similar soil mix.

150

SOWIN G SEEDS
eeds provide a simple and economical
S way of raising large numbers of
perennials, although it has limitations.
Many cultivars do not come true from
seeds. and even common ly grown species
display s01ne natural. albeit acceptable,
variation in the seed lings. However,
there is always a chance of producing a
seedling that is superior Lo its parents.
Some cul1ivars do, however, come
reasonably true 10 type, including
some delphiniums, lupines, and Oriental
poppies (Papaver 01·ie11tale). Seedlings
with colored, marbled, or variegated
leaves, such as He11cl1era cultivars,
vary in color, so poor forms need to
be rogued out at an early stage.
Seeds also offer the onl)• way of raising
monocarpic species. such as Meco11opsis,
that die after the first nowering.
Perennials that are verr slow to increase
vegetatively, such as Hcpalica and
Pulsatilla, may be raised in large
numbers commercially fro,n seeds.
GATHERING PERENNIAL SEEDS
Saving seeds from one's own plants is
easily done by the average gardener.
Many perennials produce seeds readily,
often in papery capsules or pods. Gather
from planLS with the best characteristics
of the form 10 ensure good-qualit)'
seedlings. Seedheads can ripen quickly,
so watch them closely and gather the
seeds before they are dispersed. Choose
a dry day 10 ensure that the seeds are
not damp and at risk of rol.
In some cases, for example with irises
and peonies, seedheads are obvious and
easily seen, whereas other seedheads,
as with Hepatica and primrose (Primula
vulgaris). are hidden among the foliage.
Remove each seeclhead and crush it
between two pieces of wood or with
your fingers to release the seeds over
Src,lhaul splits
opc,i wlu•11 ript• _ __
Srtdhra<I srill
riperii11g - --..
GATHERING SEEDS
Perennials such as
l1ollyhochs can be
raised from seeds.
Gt11he,· tl,c seeds
when JUSt ripe,
before they fall.
SORTING SEEDS Seeds can be cleaned using speciali::ed
swchi11g sieves. Ligluly c11,sh dry s,edheads tlirough a sieve
wi1!1 a mesh just larger tlurn the seeds. The seeds Jail througl,
this rop sieve anti are cauglu in ihe sieve with a finer mesh
belo1v. fine chaff sifts througl, and collects in the dish below.
a clean sheet of paper. Euphorbia and
some other perennials have seedpods
that "explode" to eject the seeds or
disperse the1n very rapidly; remove
these seedheads on their sterns as they
turn brown and place in a paper bag.
Always label bags of seeds when you
gather 1hern 10 avoid confusion later.
SORTING AND CLEANING SEEDS
A simple way to clean gathered seeds is
to place them in a shallow container and
blow light!)' over them 10 clean off dust
and chaff, leaving the seeds behind. Use
kitchen , homemade, or specialized (see
above) sieves with metal gauze to clean
seeds thorough!)' for storing. An
assortment of 1nesh sizes will be needed
for differently sized seeds. Use one sieve
to hold coarse chaff, a finer sieve 10 catch
the seeds, and a tray 10 receive dus1.
Take care not to confuse seed sieves with
kitchen sieves: some seeds are toxic.
Gather berries as soon as they are
ripe of planLS such as lily-of-the-valle)'
(Convallaria) and Polygonatum, then
macerate them. Place the berries in a
sieve under running water and rub off
the pulp. Alternatively, acid the mashed
berries to a bowl of water and stir well.
The pulp and dead seeds usually float;
viable seeds should sink. Pour off the
pulp and dry the seeds on paper towels.
W HEN TO SOW PERENNIAL SEEDS
So1ne seeds are best sown immediately
after gathering. Seeds of perennials that
nower in early LO midsummer genninate
more quickly and uniformly if sown
fresh, for example lupines, primroses, or
poppies (Papaver). Some perennials,
such as Meconopsis or Pri111ula, have ver)'
short-lived seeds. Euphorbia, gentians,
and several others arc best stored in a
SOWING SEEDS
C0<:ll'Sc
dmJf i,1
wp sie,,e
Seed$
trdIJJ>fcf Otl
finer mesh
Fine dwff
in collecling
dish
cool place until autumn and sown then.
Seeds of later-flowering perennials, if
sown in autumn, will not germinate
until early spring. In 111os1 cases, such
as for most chrysanthe1nums and asters,
these seeds may be stored over winter
and sown in spring.
STORING SEEDS
Seeds must be stored in a cool , dry
place; hu1nidity and warmth cause seeds
10 deteriorate and die. A good place to
store seeds is in the refrigerator at 41 °F
(5°C). Place dry seeds in labeled paper
packets in an ainight, plastic container.
A linle desiccant, such as silica gel,
placed in the container will remove
excess moisture. Place a packet in with
the seeds or, bener still , sprinkle gel in
the bonom of the container and sit the
seed packets on a piece of metal gauze
above the gel. Another option is
powdered 1nilk from a newly opened box,
although this can be used on ly once.
Both of these products absorb moisture
from the air and reduce humidity. Avoid
opening the container unnecessarily.
SEED VIABILITY
The usual reason for germination failure
is that dead seeds are sown. Seeds fail
for a nu,nber of reasons: the seeds may
not be fertilized or (continued 011 p.152)
T ESTlNG SEEDS FOR
VIAUILITY Add
=
mrdimn·sized or large
seeds to a jar of water.
Vi<1blc seeds sinl1 to
the lxmom, wl1ile dead.
l,ollow seeds Jlo<1t.
After drying them off,
sow rhe viable seeds
immtcliaiely.
151
PERENN IALS

SEEDS FROM DRIED BERRIES
Some pere1111ial berries (here of Actaea spica1a)
may be dried for storage. Before sowi11g. crush
tlu: dried bcnies witlr a wooden presser or weiglil.
then sieve to sort the cliaff from the seeds.
(contitwed from p.1 51) may fail lO fully
develop, hybrid seeds may have defective
genes, or seeds ma)' be damaged by
fungal o r insect auack. After sowing,
seeds may be killed by rot , rodents, or
severe cold.
TREATING DORMANT SEEDS
So1ne perennial seeds have buih-in
donnanc)' 10 dela)' germination in the
wi ld until conditions occur that are
beneficial for seedling development (see
pp.19-20). There are several wa)'S Lo break
this do nnancy before sowing to obtain a
SCARIFICATION BY SOAKING
•
.. . ....• ,•.
IJ,forr ' / After
SOIi~ ~ -._:::....-;::,/ , ,i11g
Some seeds (liere of l11pi11es) have hmd coats that
art brollen down 11aturt1Uy by mois1ure. Prepc,re
chem for sowing by soaliing them for 24 hours iu
er saucer of cold wcller. Sow immedi<uely.
good rate of germination. Hard protective
seed coalS in perennials are most common
in the pea family (Fabaceae). The seed
coalS must be scarified so that moistu re
can en ter. Gardeners are often advised to
file seed coats, but an)'one who has tried
this with dozens of lupine seeds knows
it is painful and time-consum ing.
A beuer way of scarif)'ing larger seeds is
to rub a batch with fine-grade sandpaper
(see Shrubs and Climbing PlanlS, p.102).
With seeds gathered in cool, moist
sum1ners, it is often sufficient to soak
the seeds (see above). If the seeds are
large or fro1n planlS grown in hot, dry
conditions, pour boiling water over
them and allow to stand in the cooled
water for 24 hours. Sow soaked seeds
immediate!)'; otherwise, they will die.
Many perennials, particularly those
from mountainous o r harsh climates,
have seeds that do not germinate until
after a cold period. The seeds must be
chilled (stratified) before sowing in
spring b)' placing them in a refrigerator,
o r sown in autu1nn in regions with cold
winters (see opposite).
A few perennials, such as peonies, are
doubly dormant and require a period of
cold, then warmth , followed by a second
spell of cold. If the seeds are not sown
fresh, the)' take two years to germi nate
naturally. This can be overcome by
subj ecting the seeds to anificial
temperature changes.
To override chemical inhibitors (see
p. 19) in the seeds of some perennials,
the seeds are sown as soon as they are
fully forn1ed before the inhibitor is
activated, sown after sto ring when it has
broken down , or soaked in water for 48
hours to leach out the che1nical, as with
rhizoma1ous irises.
P REPARING CONTAINERS FOR SOWING
Perennial seeds are often sown in polS
or half poLS of 3½in (9cm) to 5in
(13cm). Seeds that germinate quickly

RAISI NG PERENNIALS FROM SEEDS

SOWING FINE SEEDS

Very fi11e, dust li/,e seeds

Fill a conwiner, here a 5in
1 (13cm) pot. with moist see,1
soil mix. Firm it genrly w 110 more
than ½in (J cm) below the rim.
Sow the seeds (here of
2 Leucanlhemum x superbum)
thi11ly cmd evenly from a folded
piece of paper or f rom the pacl1et.
1 (here of Campan ula) ca11
Cover with <f sliallow layer be mixetl with fine stmd to
3 of sieved soil mix. Label cmd nwke it easier 10 sow evenJy.
stand the t>ot in water wuil the Place the seeds a11d a little sand
surface darhe11s; allow it to drain. i11 a J>lastic bag and sltahe well.

Fold a piece of dean paper

Cover the pot with a sheer of
4 gfoss or plastic wrap to prevent
moisture loss. Place in a sheltered
place at a suiwble tempertWU'e.
\VJ1en the seedlings lwve two
5 seed leaves. ira11spla11t singly.
Use degradable pots (see inse1) for
6 a good root system. plant them
plants that dislihe root disturlumce.
As soon ,u the seedlings hc1ve
out into d1cir final positions or pot
them on, as a1>prop1iate.
2 in lialf to mal,e a f111111ei
and plllct some of tlie Sll11cl
and seeds mixture on t.he
crease. Gently tap tlie paper to
sift the seeds over the soil mix.

15 2

VERMICU LITE TOP-DRESS ING
Seeds in cm1winers may be covered with <l ¼in
(5mm) layer offine-grade vcrmiculi1e ins1e11d of
soil mix. This allows <ifr and ligl11 w ,w,cl, the
seeds, ,~ducing 1he risl1 of dc,t11ping ,1{ (see p.46).
and easily, such as of delphiniums or
lupines, or those of plants that dislike
root disturbance, are best sown singly
in cells or plug trays (see p.31) ; use
one with cells large enough for seedlings
to reach a good size before potting.
Soil-based seed soil mixes (see
pp.33-4) are best for 1nost perennials
unless the seedlings wil l be transplanted
soon after germinat ion. A good home-
made seed soil mix can be 1nade of two
parts sterilized soil, two parts peat or
leaf mold, and one part sharp sand. For
autumn sowings, equal parts coarse sand
and peat, bark fiber, or soi l works
equally well.
To prepare a container for sowing, fill
it generously with soil mix, tap to settle
it , scrape off the excess, and firm with a
presser or base of an empty pot.
S OWING SEEDS IN CONTAINERS
Take care not to sow (see facing page)
too thickly, which could lead to spindly
seedlings and damping off (see p.46).
Cover with screened soil mix or, for seeds
that need light to germinate or germinate
quickly, top-dress with vermiculite (see
above). Large seeds may be space-sown,
pushed into the soil mix with a presser,
and covered with ¼in (5mm) of soil mix.
Seeds that must not dry out fare better
when sown on 1noss (see pp. 165 and 208).
After sowing, water containers using
a fine rose or by standing the container
for 30 ,ninutcs in a tray of water; this
avoids disturbing the soi l mix surface
and seeds. Cover the container or place
in a closed case to prevent moisture
loss, and shade it from sun if necessary.
Remove the cover after germ ination.
For most seed gennination, an ideal
temperature is 60°F (l5.5°C) . Keep
seeds of very hardy plants at 50°F
(10°C); they will germinate at lower
temperatures, but it takes longer. Tender
species need a minimum of 68°F (20°C).
If containers are sown in autun1n for
stratification by winter cold, cover the
STRATIFYING SEEDS
In cooler climates, plunge 11ots of seeds up ro
their rims in an open bed of sand, bark fiber. or
soil over wi,ucr so tluu coJd will encournge tl1e
seeds to brea,: their donnancy and germinate.
seeds with a shallow layer of fine gravel
o r coarse sand to discourage weeds
and protect seeds from rain. Pack the
containers into an open cold frame or
sink in a plunge bed (see above). The bed
keeps the soil mix moist and protects clay
pots and plant roots from cold damage.
Cover the containers with fine mesh to
protect the seeds from birds and rodents.
Seeds of perennials can be fickle.
Seeds that normally germinate quickly
may not do so. and supposedly dormant
seeds may germinate rapidly. It is wise
to keep pots or trays of seeds for a year
after the expected gen11ination date.
H ANDL.ING THE SEEDLINGS
Seedlings need bright light and regular
watering. If using rockwool plugs or
another inert mediu,n, feed the seedlings
once they have two true leaves wi th
a liquid fertilizer according to the
manufacturer'$ instructions.
Transplant seedlings 30 or 40 to a
tray or individually into plugs, cells, or
pots (see facing page) as soon as they are
large enough to handle. If the seedlings
germinated under cover at a frost-free
TRANSPLANT ING SELF-SOW N SEE DLI NGS
SOWING SEEDS
temperature, it is better to pot them
when they are slightly larger. Always
handle seedlings by the leaves. Use soil-
based potting mixes (see pp.33-4) or a
mix of three parts sterilized soil, two
parts peat or leaf mold, and one part
sharp sand.
Grow on the seedlings in a sheltered
place un til well established. Plant out
fast growers into their final positions
in the same year, but delay planting out
slow deve lopers until the next spring.
These are beuer potted or grown on in
a nursery bed for a year.
SOWING SEEDS OUTDOORS
Easy perennials may be raised in a
seedbed: the seeds are best spring-sown
in dril ls as for annuals or biennials (see
pp.218-19). If needed, thin the seedlings
as they g row; when they are about Jin
(8ctn) tall, lift and plant them out.
Seeds that germ inate slowly may
rot if the soil mix decomposes, so these
are beuer sown directly into a seedbed
in a cold frame. Sow them in rows, label ,
and top-dress with fine gravel. Keep the
bed moist and weed-free; be aware that
organisms working through the bed
may displace the seeds.
Seedlings may need potting or
transplanting after only a few weeks; if
left 100 long, they become crowded and
drawn as they compete for light and air.
H YBRIDIZING PERENNIALS
Many perennials, such as daylilies,
irises, chrysanthe1nums, or hostas, can
be hybridized (see p.21 ), sometimes with
exciting results. It helps to focus on one
group, research its characteristics, and
have a specific aim, such as LO produce
larger-nowered, hardier Agc,pantl,us.
Alten1ativcly, simpl)' plant suitable
parents together, let the bees do the
work, gather the seeds, and select from
the resulting seedlings. Be ruthless and
keep only the best examples.
Many perennials,
sud, as 1hese Oriental
poppies (Papaver
orientalc), naturally
seed d1emsdves about
11,e garden .
Use a trowel to
lift wcl, seedling with
enough soil to cwoid
disturbing irs root
ball. Replant the
seedlings immediately
imo ,,repared soil in
a suitable sire.firm
ge111ly, label, and
watc,: Kee1, watered
and shaded, if
necessary, wuil they
,,re established.
153
PERENN IALS
TAKING CUTTINGS
wide range of perennials can be flowering, many cuttings will root and
A propaga1ed from cu11ings, using
a varie1y of plan1 pans: s1ems, leaves,
grow well. Cunings from perennials that
die down over winter should be taken
and roots. In mos1 cases, some form
of con1rolled environment - a heated
closed case, greenhouse, or cold frame,
for example - is necessary to encourage
the cuning 10 regenerate missing pans,
such as roots. Lf these conditions can be
provided, cuttings are ideal for obtaining
a number of new perennials thal will be
ready to planl out, and may even flower,
in 1heir second year.
Mature plan1s recover well from
having a modes1 amount of cu11ing
material removed, or stock plants can
be cultivated especially for the purpose
of providing cuni ngs. Good hygiene -
clean, sharp tools, sterile growing media,
and the prompt removal of dead or
damaged ma1erial or of any cutt ing in a
ba1ch 1hat shows disease - helps ensure
success. With some perennials, you can
1ake cuni ngs at almos1 any 1ime of the
year they are not in flower, whereas with
others ma1erial is suitable only during a
few weeks or even days. If taken afler
TAKLNG STEM-TIP CUTTINGS FROM PEREN NIALS
Selcc1 close-11()(/cc/, heahhy slwols fmm 1'1e
1 current season$ growtlt, here from a coleus
(Solcnos1emon). Rc111ov, each one by cu11i11g
jus1 below a ,wcle, ,me/ J-5in (8-1Jc111) below
rhe sham ril', wi1h <,clean.sharp Jmife.
To insert outings into 1/ie roo1i11g medium
3 (/,ere rocl,wool), 111al,e s111C1II holes. For
cells, here, mahe one hole ,,ercell. lnserr
CIS
each cuuiug so i1s leaves si1 just above the
su,jac,. Finn in genrly, 1vc11er, and label.
154
early in 1he growing season so 1hat the
cuttings have plen ty of time to form
good root systems capable of coming
through 1he next dormant period.
R OOTING MEDIA
Materials into wh ich cuttings are
insened must give them suppon and be
sterile, water-retentive, and well aerated:
mixtures of peat and fine g rit, perlite,
vermiculi1e, or sand are among the most
popular (see p.33). Several inert media
can also be used : rockwool (see p.35)
and vermiculite are popular for stem
cunings; for some 1ricky alpines, ground
pumice is used (see p.167). Some easy-
10-roo1 plan1s wi ll develop roots from
stems that are si1n ply suspended in
water (see p.156).
P ROTECTING CUTTINGS
Cunings taken from 1he 1opgrowth of
perennials are usually soft or se1n i-ri pe,
and it is essen tial 1ha1 their 1issues
Place 1he cu11i11gs in a plas1ic bag o,· buclier
2 of wmer unril d1cy can be prepc,recl. Trim
off the lowtr kaves wirh n cletm, shar1, lmife or
pinch diem off with your fingers. T<1llc cm·c 1101
w leave any snags. wl1ich migl11 ml.
u,bd lef, w ,ig/11,
, ~ /ro111 10 bad,
' '.'l •
Place the cuuings in ci closed case or tent
4 1he111 uncler plasric (,o l,eep lu,mic/J in briglu
light ar " minimum tcmperallm~ of 64-70"F
(18-21 'CJ. Aj1er abo111 1wo weeks, 1he cuuings
shoulcl have developecl rnors (sec inset).
remain turgid (well supplied with
water). ln dry air or in wind, water
will be los1 from stem and leaf surfaces
and the cutting will rapidly wih , so a
shcl1ered , humid growing environment
is essential. In tropical and subtropical
cliinates, stem cuttings may root well
in open ground, but in other zones they
must have protection in a greenhouse
or plastic-film tunnel or, on a small
scale, in a closed case or a cold frame
or covered on a shaded windowsil l.
Stem cunings are in general mo re
likely 10 rool if provided with bottom
hea1, making 1he exposed growth cooler
1han 1he buried part. Care will be needed
in the weaning of protected cunings
from warmth and high humidity to
open-ai r conditions, and a period of
hardening is essen tial: be careful, 100,
nol 10 overwa1er cunings until they are
wel l established.
TAKING CUTTINGS FROM STEMS
Stern, stem-tip , and basal stem cunings
can all be used 10 propaga1e perennials;
1hey may be soft-, g reen-, o r sem i-ripe
wood, depending on the stage of growth.
It does no harm to mosl garden planlS 10
take shoots formed in the first flush of
growth as cuttings, leaving the second
for flowering. If you do this , delay any
spring feeding un1il cu11ings have
been taken , because rooting wi ll be
improved if the stems are 1101 too
sappy. Take ma1erial where possible
fron1 the younger, more vigorous
shoots al the edge of a clump.
Nonflowering shoots are always
preferable, but with some plants, such
as geraniums or impatiens, 1his is not
always possible; remove flowers and
buds from such cuttings.
Four•wec:l:•olci
cuuings _ _
l'or roo1cd cu11i11gs
5 singly i1110 4in (10cm)
pors ofsoilless porril1g mix. Do 1101 1ease our 1!,e
roots from rodlwool modules. L"bel. wme,; anti
grow on in a wann, brighr place.

PROMOTING ROOTING OF CUTTINGS
Slfc~y gel
ttdl1crtS 10
b<1st of cuuing
HORMONE ROOTING COMPOUND To
encourage mol fonnalicm, preptired cuuings
(here of Salvia ioclantha) am be dipped i,110
a l1or111onc rooting po1Vde,· or (c,s l,ere) gel.
Stock plants kept to supply cuning
material should be young and vigorous.
Do no t use high-nitrogen fenilizers on
sLOck plants, or cuuings fro m them will
prove difficult to root.
The softer the growth , the faster it
will root but the more vulnerable the
culling will be 10 pests and diseases and
adverse conditions. Periodic checks for
pests such as aphids on cuuings taken
in late summer and early autumn, such
as of violas and pcnstemons, is vital:
pests we.1ken soft cuuings very quickly.
Preventative sprays or drenches with a
fungicide arc also advisable.
With nearly all plants, the lower
cut is made just below a leaf joint,
where natural growth horm ones
(auxins) are more active in the
initiation of roots. A hormone
rooting powder or gel (see above)
helps; most plants root well but
more slowly without it.
STEM-TIP CUTTINGS
Soft- and greenwood cunings
are taken from new growth in spring
LO early summer, or from greenhouse
plants soon after they start into growth.
In mid- or even late summer, spring
and early summer bloomers such as
Aubrieta and violas that have been
cut back after Oowering will also
produce suitable soft shoots. As
might be expected from the name,
the stems should be soft, ahnost
succulent ; if bent they will snap,
or squash if pressed. Given the right
conditions, softwood cullings root
quickly, usually in less Ihan two weeks.
Semi-ripe cunings are taken from
shooLS that are in active growth but
where basal pans are beginning 10
ripen , usually from midsummer 10
mid-autumn. Such cunings will bend
without snapping and will not crush
readily. These cunings need protection
from cold Lo root well, but they are more
resistant 10 adverse conditions. Rooting
TAKING CUT TINGS
from one stem by cuning it into sections
2-3in (S-8cm) long. The top of each
H U~llDlTY For cuuing is trimmed just above a leaf
cuttings inserted and the base just below a leaf. Take off
in a pol. cover the bollom leaf front each culling and
I wi1l1 a plastic perhaps one or two more on leafy stems,
b<1g held clear so that there is a sufficient length of bare
of the cuttings stem 10 insert into the rooting medium .
0 11 splir stakes. Trear stem cuni ngs thereafter exactly as
Secure 1l1e bag for s1em-1ip cuuings.
with a n,bber
band ro liee1, ii METHODS FOR EASILY ROOTED PLANTS
airtiglu. Tl,is A space-saving method when taking
maintcdns ihe large numbers of stem cuuings from
Jmmidity around easily rooted plants, such as Penscemon,
1he cu!li11gs a11d Aste,; Dianthus, Euphorbi<1, Phlox, and
preve111s any Lysimacl1ia, is the moss roll (see below),
moisture loss. developed by professionals but very easy
10 use for home propagation .
Sphagnum moss may be replaced
takes longer, from four to eight weeks. with coarse peat, finely shredded bark,
Once lhe cunings have rooted , they or rockwool. The plaslic may be folded
should be polled into a suitable soil mix over al the base before being rolled
(see p.32). A cold frame, greenhouse, up to retain loose peal or bark, but the
or plastic-fihn tunnel can all be used for roll will need careful watering to avoid
growing 1hen1 on, or, in warm climates, waterlogging and rot. Stand the roll in
a sand bed in a sheltered spot. In all a closed case or ten t it in a plastic bag.
cases, shade them from Slrong sun. Water the roll regularly and thoroughly
from above and allow it LO drain .
STEM CUTTINGS Stein-tip cunings of very easy-10-
On long main-stemmed perennials, root perennials, for example Penstemon,
such as Lobelia cardi11alis hybrids and Gaza11ia, and Tradescantia, may be
Veronica, one can get several cuuings rooted in waler (continued on p.156).
STEM-TIP CUTTINGS IN A ROLL Oursid1i encl
of mil
Cur a blacl, plastic s1rip abo,u 6i11 (15cm) Sp11ce rhc cuttings 011 thf "i11sit1e· end of the
1 1Vidc mid 2ft (60cm) long. Cover with <1 Ii11 2 sr, ip abour Jin (8011 ) <1part. and gradually
(2.5cm) layer of damp splwg11u111 11wss. Place rhe redute the spacing w 2in (5on) cH rhe ''oursfcfe"
cuttings so 1hcir lellvcs sit just clear of rite moss. end. Roll up the stril', srarting lit the inside entl.
\Vltc11 11,c roll
3 is complt•te.
secure willt rubber
bands, then label.
Place rhe mil out
of direct sw1 at a
minimum of 70"F
(2 1' C). Cover to
lteep die couings
humid and wcuer When rhe c11rri11gs show sig11s of gro1Vrh.
f.-0111 the rop c,s
necessmy to ,teep
4 after -1-6 IVteks, u11roff rhe sr,·ip. Tease the
cuuings ow of the moss. Por rhcm singly in Jin
rhe moss nioisr. (8011) pors of soilless porring mix.
155
PERENNIALS

(Cont.inued from p.155.) Place the
cunings in a jar of water (see right) on a
greenhouse bench or windowsill. Shield
from strong sun 10 reduce the growth of
algae. Aftercare is as for stein-tip cuttings.
BASAL STEM CUTTINGS
These consist of entire young shoots
severed fro,n the crown of the parent
plant so that each retains a piece of
parent tissue at the base. They are strong
shoots in active growth and quick to
form roots, unlike more mature shoots
dedicated to producing Oowers.
H taken very early in the season from
sum1ner-Oowering plants such as asters,
phlox , and salvias, basal stem cunings
should make reasonably sized Oowcring
plants by summer or autumn of the
same year. Commercially, this is popular
because it cuts out a year's production.
ll also allows cunings to put on the
maximum amount of g rowth before the
next dormant period, benefiting plants
such as salvias that might otherwise not
come through a harsh win ter.
Basal stem cunings of many
perennials may be taken from the first
Oush of new growth in spring. Even
earlier cu nings can be o btained by light
forcing of plan ts that have been lifted
and poued in the previous autumn
DELPHIN I UM BASAL STEM CUTTI NGS I N PERLITE
SOFTWOOD CUTTINGS IN WATER Poi jusr fa,gc
,mough Jo,· roots
Taite softwood stem-
1 tip currings about
4-6in (10-15cm) long
from he/I/thy. closc-
,wcled shoots (here
of a coleus). Trim
eacl1curringjusr below a
11oclr: remove its lower
leaves. Place a piece of
j
wire neuing O\'CY a jar of
water: insert the
c1wi11gs so rhdr Keep filling "I' rlie W/ltc,· so 1/1(11 rl,c lower
srcms arc in 2 srrms of rhe cuttings cu-c (dways submc,:gccf.
rhc wmcr. Af1e.r 2-4 weehs, die c111ti11gs should have wcfl-
del'elopcd roots. Poi singly in 3i11 (8cm) pots of
sandy polling mix. \\/(lier and label.
(as with the delphiniu,n below) and to obtain good material from them for
started into growth in a greenhouse, softwood cuuings, but taking basal stem
plastic-film tunnel, o r cold fra,ne. Some cuuings seals the stems against rot. For
plants, including delphiniums, Diascia, hollow-stemmed cunings, a light , open
and violas, can also be induced to form medium such as vermiculite o r perlite
material suitable for basal stem cunings (see below) is effective in preventing rot;
later in the season: cut back Oowered regularly spray or drench the cunings
stems to the crown and top-dress with with fungicide.
o rganic fertilizer to encourage the plant Basal stem cuttings may also be
to produce sturdy, new shoots quick ly. taken from rootstocks, such as of
Some perenni als, notably lupines and chrysanthemums, that have been
delphiniums, have hollow stems that overwintered under cover; the
tend lo rot in soil 111ix. It may be difficult roo1stocks are usua lly then discarded

Toomtmy
fe,wes S<ll' Cut towards
• - ftiergy Ju~S<' of Slfln

Delphinium
cuuing - - ; Rot in
hollow
Siem

GOOD BAD
CUTTI NG CUTTING
In spring. select new shoots that are about With a dea11, sharp /wife. remove a11y Fifi a 6in (15cm) pan wi1/1 mois1 pcrlire IO
] 3--lin (8-IOcm) long. Cur off ar rhe base, 2 damaged rissue or stubs from the bottom 3 wir/1in Ii11 (2.5cm) of rhe rim. Sumd ,l,e />Of
et1ch with a l'iece of the parent$ woody crown. third of rl,e srem of each culling. in a saucer of ware,: Geudy push in about cigJu
Trim off 1111 excep1 11,e rop rwo o,· three le11ves. cuuings so rlwr they are half-Im rial.

Label the pot <md Poi r he roored

4 swnd in irs saucer
of waier in a warm
5 cuttings singly
inro Jin (8cm) pols
place 0 111 of direct of soifless polling mix
su111ighr. Keep rhe at the same depth as
perlire co11sra111ly before. Finn gently,
moisr. The currings label, and wate,:
shouJd root in 4-8 Grow 011 the cuuings
weeks a11d are ready for 6-8 weeks 11111il
for polling when 1hc they arc es1ablisl1ed
new roots are about before planting them
½in (1 c,11) long. Ease out.
them out genrly and
.give" light rap ro
/mock any loose
perlite off rhe roots.

156
 TAK ING CUTTINGS

BASAL STEM CUTTINGS

ln spring, wl1cn die new shoots
1 emerging a, 11,e base of 1he plan,
(11crc a Chrysamhcmurn) are jusr
3-iin (8- IOcm) 1all, c111 llirm
cleanly through m ll1e junction
with the wood)' crowtt tissut.
Remove rhc lower leaves and
2 r,i m the l><~scs, cutting srraiglu
across below a node if visible, or
s,, the cuttings are 2in (5c,n) long.
T,·car the base of each cucring with
Jionnonr rooting powder or gel.
Insert the cuttings into pots
3 of rooting medium. Water
well and label. P111 1he c1111i11gs
in a closetl ccue or telll tliem in
a clenr plastic bag. 80110111 hem
speeds rooting.
\Vhrn well roowd. usually ,ifter
4 about four wcells, scparmc the
cu1 1i11gs. Aim to hcep disrur'banct
to the roots to a minimum. Por
the curt ings singly in potting
mix (see inset).

because the new plants will have more
vigor than the parent (sec above).
Since these cuttings arc usually
taken early in the season, bottom heat
(see p.41 ) improves rooting. A suitable
propagating medium may be mixed fro111
equal pans sand and peat. Hormone
rooting compound often helps, as does
dusting with a fungicide.
A cold fra111c, greenhouse, plastic-
fllm tunnel or, in warm climates, a sand
bed in a sheltered spot, shaded from
ho1 sun, can be used for growing on
the cuttings.
PART-LEAF CUTTINGS
Sclcc1 a h«1llhy. f11ll-grow11 leaf and cul ii
1 mto sections so that die veins i t1 t11c leaf an:
wou11ded. Here a Slrepwcarpus leaf is cur in
half ,rnd 1hc mi<lrib discw"<lccl. Prc,,arc a seecl
,ray offree-draining mo1ing medium.
Mahe shallow lrenches in the medium,
2 tl,cn insert die leaf cutt ings in them. cul
side clown. Firm ge111ly <1ro1md 1he base of rhc
cuttings. Pur the tray in a dosed ccise or seal
i11 n JJlasric bag to prevent moisture loss.
LEAF CUTTINGS WHO LE-LEAF CUTTINGS
Some plants can regenerate both roots
and shoots from partial or whole leaves.
Generally, variegated leaves cannot be
used for leaf cuttings; new plants will
be plain green. There are two types of
leaf cuuing. With the first, new plants
form on the surface of a sectioned leaf,
as in many Streptocarpus (see left)
and Sansevieria.
The second utilizes a whole leaf and
its stalk and , usually, a dormant bud at
the base of the stalk where it joined the Cw heallhy, ma111re leal'es (/,ere of African
stem . On some, such as African violets, 1\'iOffl, Saimpaulia) from 1he pare111 pfaru.
the bud is not crucial because a new one close 10 ,1., base of 1he leaf s1allr. fnscn in pois
will form. In many, including Ramonda of e<1ual parts pear ,11ul coarse sand so that the
and petiolares-type alpine primroses, I"'" of eaclr lec,j j11S1 !Ouches 1hc swface.
the bud must be preserved: without it,
the cutting will root but a new rosette
will 1101 form . The buds arc not visible;
removing a leaf by holding it and
drawing it downward (never tug)
usually keeps the bud intact.
De-pot or dig up a plan t and remove
most of the soil 111ix or soil to get at
outer leaves from rosettes: they may
look messy but usually work well.
Leaf cuttings need a free-draining
rooting medium, such as equal pans
coarse sand or perlite and peat, and they
may be inserted singly or several around
the edge of a pot. They are usually taken
early in the growing season, but cuttings
of many tropicals and house plan ts such \Vatc,· tlu: cuttings, allow to drain, then
as Peperomia may be taken at most times 2 label tl1em. Cover to prevent moisture Joss:
of the year if given a period of warm th here, clear plastic boules are cut down w mallC
to in itiate regeneration. Tropical cuttings improvised cloches. Shade ,Ii, cuHings from
must be kept in high humidity at around tlirect sunlight.
68°F (20°C). New plantlets should start
to form in a few weeks.
Nontropical species, such as those Several pfm11/e1s
raised from whole-leaf cuuings, are
taken in mid- to late spring. They are
3 should fon11 around
each leaf base. Remove 1/re
usually covered Lo main tain humidity covers and allow the new plants
but do not need extra heat at this time
of year. By midsumn,er, new young
ro grow on until tliey are large
enough ro be teased ow ancl
plan ts should develop and can be potted poued individually in soi/-
in a suitable soil mix (see p.32). less porting mix.

157
PERENN IALS

R OOT CUTTINGS ROOT CUTTINGS

vVhile it is easier for a root cuuing to
develop shoots than a stem culling to
form roots, not all root cuttings develop
new roots as readily as a stem culling.
Root cuuings are best taken fro,n a plant
when it is most dormant, in 1nid- to
late autu,nn or early winter. Root
cuuings cannot be used to increase
variegated plants: although new plants
will grow, their leaves will be plain green.
Plants with thick roots such as
Papaver orie11tale, Sympl1y111m, and
Verbascum can be propagated by this
method. It is often advised that root
cullings should be of pencil thickness,
but in fact many perennials do not have Lift 1hc pla111 (here a11 Acanthus) in fare Cur ccffl1 rom into sections th<H are 2-lin
many roots this th ick, and thinner root 1 m1rumn when ii is donnanr and wash rhc 2 (5-IOcm) long: 11wl1i11g 1he 1hi1111cr c1111i11gs
cullings are often just as, if not more, roOls fr<'e of s<>il. Choose strong roots, of the longcs1. To ma1ic sure 1lurt you inse,·1 the
successful. The thinner they are, the medium rhidmcss for rhr plm11 . cmd sever rhcm cuuings 1hr right way "I'· cut the f}{ISC of eacl1
longer they should be. With very thin- from ll,c 11circ111, cuuing as dose to 1hc cmwn tlS <11Ui11g tu cm c111gle cmcl cul the top of each
rooted plants such as phlox, choose possible. Removt: 1w more than mte· third of the cuuing srr<1ight c1cross (see inset).
the thickest roots and lay the cu llings ovailahle root mmerial from the l)arem ,,lmu.
horizontally on, rather than inserted
upright in , the rooting medium .
Root cuttings from many suitable
popular perennials should grow well in
a cold frame. Extra protection may well
be needed in cold weather to prevent
the soil mix from freezing. Root cullings
from marginally hardy and tender
plants s hould be kept al a minimum
temperature of 45-50°F (7-10°C).
vVhen new growth can be seen on
cuuings in spring, check to see if the)'
are well rooted before polling them:
root cullings produce shoots some time
before any new root growth occurs, and
cuuings must not be polled until a new
root system has formed. Prepare /JOIS of rooting medium, wmcr Top-dress die c111rings with a ½in ( fem)

M INIMIZING ROOT DISTURBANCE

3 1l1eni , and allow t11em lO drain , Thtat rite
cuuings with a fungicide lO prevent rot. Make
4 layer of coarse sa11d or gri1. label. and p111
rhem in a cold frame. dosed case o,: in wc1nn
Some plants, such as Pulsa1illa, grow holes as deel' as the c111ti11gs in the medium dimlltcs, ct slir.ltered pfocc. Slow•rooting species
well fro,n root cuttings, but the parent and insel't them vertically, <mgJed end down. may bcncfi1 from bouom ht·ac. \¼uer the medium
plant will suffer a check in growth from Tlie top of each c1111i11g should be le"cl only to p,·event d,)'ing out m11il rhc cuttings
the root dis turbance. The plants can be wi1/11he swfacc. show sig11s of roori11g.
container-grown and encouraged to send
down roots for cuttings into a sand or
gravel bed (see Eryngium, p.196). If the ALTERNATIVE METHOD
plant is in the ground, cul around it FOR THIN ROOT C UTTINGS
some 4in ( 10cm) fro1n the crown, lift it
carefully, and replant elsewhere. Severed
roots should be visible around the walls
of the hole. Do not fill in the hole, but
place a sheet of glass or clear, rigid
plastic over it for protection, and ,nark
it with stakes. Leave until new shoots
are visible around the hole walls, then
lift and pot the plantlets to grow on.

LAYERING PERENNIALS \Vhen new topgrowtl1

A few perennials with a prostrate habit,
such as scrambling phlox, or sprawli ng
stems, such as pinks (see Oian thus,
p.1 93), may be layered as for woody
plants (see p.106). The best time is late
winter, before growth begins, or autumn ,
after new growth is con1plete. Separate
new plants in the next growing season.
5 af'ptars, usually by 11,c
following spring, gently rease
0111 1he c1111i11gs a11d chcc/1 for
root growth. \Vhen recuiy, pot the cuuings
i11di"id11ally in Jin (8011) pots filled with soil
mix. \\later 1he111 well, 1hc11 label (see inset).
Grow on the rooted cuttings until they are of
sufficie111 si:te to pla111 0111.
Cur roo1s 11110 sec1io11s 3-5i11 (8-13cm) 1011g.
depe11di11g 011 1he pla111. Cur srraig/11 across
al boll, ends of each cu11i11g. Lay 11,e c1111i11gs
hol'i:to111ally, about l in (2.5cm) apart, 011
moist rooting medium in trays. Cover the
cuttings wiil1 ¼in (5mm) of medium, finn,
1he11 allow 10 root (see ste/JS 4-5).

158

FERNS
erns are primitive plants that, lacking
F flowers, reproduce by spores rather
than b)• seeds. Increase from spores is
the usual method of propagation where
many plants are wanted. However, it is
tricky and not alwa)'S possible: spores
may not for,n when cultural conditions
are less than ideal; so me ferns are sterile;
and many crested or plumose cuhivars
do no t co me true from spores. Man)'
ferns also reproduce by vegetative
means, such as b)' rhizomes, bu lbils, or
plantlets. These can all be exploited by
gardeners to increase stocks.
SPORES
The fem life C)'cle (rig/it) has two phases:
a sporoph)'te (spore-bearing) asexual
stage, familiar as the fronded plants we
grow, and a sexual gameto phyte stage
called the prothallus, produced when
spores are dispersed from the fern
and germ inate. It is at th is stage that
fertilization takes place, enabled by water,
since the male sperm must swi m to the
femal e egg; this is why ferns grow in
moist places. An embryo develops, then a
recognizable fern; when mature, the fern
will produce spores, continuing the cycle.
GATHERING SPORES
Spores of most temperate fern species
ripen in mid- to late summer; those of
many tropical ferns ripen less seasonally
thro ugh the year (comi1111ed 0,1p.160) .
A-Z OF FERNS
A DIMHU\f M AIO[NIUIR rCRN Sow fresh spores
at 59•f (l 5°C) for hardier species, 70°F (21°C)
for lender ones!- Divide rhizomes (p.162)
into large pieces (closely spaced nodes) in
earl)' spring i. Root plantlets :n frond tips
of 1ropical species such as A. awdowm U-
A NGIOPTERIS G1AN1 O R K1~G fCRN Detach
auricles (/J.163) u.
ASPLENH ,\1 (syn. Cetrrach, Plty lliris) S PLEE'.',[-
1
WORT Sow spores as for Aclicmtum , . Roo1
bulbils or plantlc1s (/J.161 ). on frond midrib
on A . b11lbifer11111, a, base of frond on harl's
tongue fern (A. scolopc11c/1i11111), especiall)'
sterile c uhivars such as 'Crispurn· U , Divide
(1>. l 62) hardier species in spring,. Roo1
plan1leis al frond tips of A. tl1izo,,11yll11111 , .
Ar m 'RJVM LADY FERN Sow spores as for
Adi,111111111. Root tin)' bulbils (p. 161 ) rrom
base of frond sialks ,u. Divide side-crowns
(p.162) without lifting parcn1 (especially A.
fi1ix-fcmi110 cuh ivars that do nol come true) ~.
BLCCHNUM HARO OR \.VATER FERN Spores in
la1e summer at 59°F (15°C) ,. Divide {/J, 162)
in spring: only 8. penntHmffina and
B. spica11t establish easily in colder are-as.
Take plan1 lets from stolons (p.162) U-
LlFE CYCLE OF A FERN
In moist cmulilion.s. spore
g(·nninmes. dntlopi,ig ribbon of
cdfs ,md roo1lihe rliizoi,ls
(gmne,op1t)'U) of <yck: mcilt-
Et1d1 spornngfwn splils
open and releases sports
Tough outc,· cells d,y
out mul pulJ apart
Sl'orcmgiwn wall
Pinnulc
(l,•tif/<1
of fro>1d)
Sori us11<1lly Em:11$p 0 1'f cc,sc
,,ro1t•ffttl l,y flap of conwins d u~u:ri. (,j
tissue. or i,id1Csium spom11gi<1 thm l10ld
du:.tlil1t' spo1n
Cmonu., , Sow green spores as soon as ripe
a, 70°F (2 I 0C) l ,
Crnum,1 (syn. 11/sophila) TRfE FtRN Sow
fresh spores a, 59-64°F {15-IS•C) l- Take
offse1s from 1runks or roots (p.163 ) U-
C1·R10.,11uM Sow spores at 61°F ( I 6°C) l ,
Cr sroPrE1us BLADDER FERN Sow spores at
61°F (16°C) !- Root bulbils (/J. 161). under
fro nd midribs of C. bulbifern UI- Divide
rhizomes (p .162) in spring U ,
D AV1\ LUA Sow spores as for Adiantum J.
Divide creeping rhizomes or root aerial
rhizomes (p. l 62) ,.
DJCKSONIA Sow spores as for Cibo1i11111 !-
Take ofl'seJS from trunks (p.163) j.
DIPLAZI U.\f Sow fresh spores a, 70· F (21°C) t
Root bulbils (p.161) of D. b11lbifen1111 ,.
Deiach plantleJS from creeping roo1s {/J, 162)
of D. bipinnmiflclwn and D. esculenrwu , .
DRYOPTERIS BUCKI.ER M: RN Sow fresh spores
a1 59°F ( l5°C) , . Divide in spring or autumn
(p. I 62), especially cuhivars and forms 1-
Lrcooru M CLIMBING FERN Sow spores as for
Cib<11i11111 l- Divide (p.J62) before grow1h
begi ns. Layer climbing s1ems (/J. 163) UI,
MARATTIA As for AngiO/)ICris.
FERNS
~j
Spermatozoa swim - I --
into nrch offenwle 01gm1
(orchegonmm), usu<1lly
on ,mo,r,e, ,,,o,lw ll11:..
s,,ol't to Jc11iliz.r si11gtf t·xg
Cell ribbon bicomes
pro1lwllu.~ in 3t:xuof sWgt'
and female o,g,ms form
In 1n-estucc· of wcucr: uwk 01xm1s
(a11t11eri<lia) release spcmwtoz.oa
Protliallus supplies
nutrients to fa1itiz.cfi
egg ,,s it grows into
emb,yo fcrn
.. -....~., ·, .. ..
· ;..-.;., !·':. ·<,·, · •,·, ·.··
"~~-'~-.....•. : •',
(. . . .·. •..;, .,:
.· . ·.:.1,·; .' .....
.. .
' : . ·, :
,:-- , :;.;__ Adult cisextwl Jeni (sporr.,phyte)
ba,rs s1,ore cases (sorl) 0 11
undcr~i<lf) ofJ,on<Js - sori , ipen
from JMle ,-::11·c11 01· brown to bl<1ck
Mcmu ingft'rn <lr,•d oJ>S
r'l1i;:0111t· lO fe.ttl / 10 111 ~oil
MAl1fl/CCU Sow fresh spores at 59• F (1 5°C) 1-
Dividc or <lelach side-crowns early spring•·
N ErHR{)f l!PIS SWO RD FCRN Sow spores as for
Cibo1i11111 1- Take plan1le1s from runners, esp.
of cuhivars and root aerial stolons (J>.162) 1-
0 Noct £A SEN~1l'IVE rtRN As for Mmteucda 1,
O S.\ IVNDA Sow green spores as soon as ripe at
59°F ( 15°C) , . Divide in s pring or au1umn t
PEJ.J.AEA Spores a1 55-64°F (13-18°C) u.
PurrCfRIV,\J Sow spores as for Cibotium ! .
Dc1ach plantle1s once distinct "nest" forms l-
POL\'PODIUM As for Mo11eucci11 , .
POLl'SrtCHUM HOLL\', SHIELDFERN Sow spores
as for M1111cuccia ,. Take bulbils (p. l 61 ) from
base of midribs u,.
Divide (p. J62) in spring,
esp. s1erile fom,s like 'Pulcherrimum Bevis' l-
p, ERIS BRAKE Sow fresh spores at 70°F
( 21°C). Divide rhizome (p.J62) in spring!.
THELl'l'I t RIS Sow fresh spores al 59°F (1 s•c).
Divide (p. 162) in spring or summer!,
Wooosu Sow fresh spores a, 59°F ( I 5°C) ,.
Divide (p. 162) when dormam U-
\Vooow,1ROtA CH,\IN FERN Sow spores at 59°F
( l 5°C) in late summer or earl)1 autumn J.
Divide (p. 162) in spring U-Take bulbils
(p. l6J } from upper frond surface,.
159
 PROPAGATING FERNS FROM SPORES
Select a frond (lie,~ 1/ie
] brown-spored Adianlum
rnddianum 'Frirz Luil,r)
with ripe sporangfo (sec
righ1). Cur off tl1e frond with
a clec111, sharl' lmifc. Plcicc it in
a clecm folcled slieet of l"'l'cr or
envelope in n wnrm, dry 1>lacr for
2-3 dt1ys to collecr the spores. UNRIPE RIPE TOO RIPE

Gc111ly tap the sp0tcs onto tl,c
2 surface of a sterilized mixture
of i,qua/ Sanc/.
3 die "l'J'fOJ.>rimc tcmpcrmurc i11
/J<ll1S /lCOI fill(/ ShW7'
or two pa HS splwgnum moss w one
of co,1rse sancl. in a Jin (8011) /JOI.
Cover wir/1clear plastic wr<1f).
Keep the pot in a closrrl a1st· m
inclirccr lighr. Afrcr 6-9 "'""rhs,
lijr small ·1,111chcs" of rhc green
protl1olli tlior l1C1>c clcvclop«I
0,1 tht surface.
..
Ser rl,c pmclics 11p ro V.i11 (2cm)
4 apmt in slight depressions in c1
poi of fresh soil mix. Spray wi1h
s1crili:::ctl wmc,. cow·r: mul pfocc
the pot in rhe smne propc1gating
cnvironmcnr ns before.
\Vhc11 tht' ycmngfnmtls wt.:
5 large enough to haucllc, pol
1hc111 i1110 cells 11ays of 111ois1,
0 1·
soifless P',u iug mix. Kt•ep in a
humid em•imu111r11t, then pm 011
wl,cn small fronds clcvdop.

(Co11Li1111edfro111 /J.159.) The sori, or
spore-bearing bodies, are visible on
1he underside of the fronds (see />.159
and above). A few ferns, as in Onoclea,
produce special spore-bearing fronds.
Unripe sori are usually pale green or
pale brown , with a granular surface. As
sori ripen, their co lor darkens and the
sporangia within swel l and split lo shed
the spores. When just a few of the sori
are open and arc shagg)' in appearance,
the frond is ready for propagation.
To gather spores, place a fenile frond,
or section of frond, in a clean envelope
and keep in a warm, dry atmosphere.
Do not use plastic bags; they encourage
dampness and molds. When the spores
are released , they have the appearance
of dusl. Berore sowing, they should be
separated from any debris such as scale
remnants or leaf hairs, which can
contaminate the spore culture.
Examination with a hand lens will
reveal minute particles of uniform size:
these are the spores, and the rest is
debris. Either use a fine sieve, or tip the
mass onto a clean sheet of paper. Hold
the paper at an angle of 45°. Debris will
travel rapid!)' down the surface while
the spores move slowlY.; with a little
practice, the spores can be kept on the
paper while the debris falls off.
Contantination with algae, mosses,
and fungi is a major cause of poor
viability and death of prothalli. If you
are having problems, try steri lizing
the spores in a ten percent solution
of sodium hypoch lori1e (standard
household bleach) in distilled water
for 5-10 minutes. Drain, rinse in sterile,
boiled and cooled wmer, and dr)' the
spores on filter paper for 24-48 hours.
Green spores, as in Lygodimn and
Osmmula, have very short viabili1y
and mus1 be sown wi1hin 48 hours of
gathering. Only spores that are brown
when ripe can be stored; they may
remain viable for 3-5 years if properly
prepared. To sLOre spores, transfer lo a
labeled plastic film canister con taining
a packet of desiccant, 1hen keep in a
refrigerator at 39-41 °F (4-5°C).
S OWING SPORES
The easies1 and most successfu l sowing
medium is a mix of two parts sphagnum
1noss with one pan coarse sand. Sterilize
a pot with boiling water or ten percent
sodium h)•pochlorite solution (as above)
and fill with the mixture, then sterilize
it by pouring boiling water over the
surface. Cover at once with plastic wrap,
allow lo cool completely, then surface-
sow the spores (see above) thinly. Re-
cover immediately with fresh plastic
wrap, or seal the poi in a new plastic
bag. Place in a closed case in indirect
light. Germinate hardy and cool-
temperate ferns a1 59-68°F (15-20°C)
and tropical ferns at 70-81 °C (21-27°F)
(see A-Z of Ferns, p.159).
Within 2-26 weeks, a velvety green
haze of young prothalli should appear
on the surface of the medium. If it is
slimy, there may be algal con1amina1ion.
Some growers recommend discarding
such cultures, although often a few ferns
survive. If moss grows, weed it out with
1weezers, and water from below with
a ten percent solution of potassium
permanganate to control the infestation.
In the spring af1cr sowing, clumps
of young pro1halli can be "patched off"
into sterile, soilless seed mix. Put
in a new plastic bag, seal, and grow on
in indirect light and closed condit ions,
until tiny, recogn izable fronds appear.
Alternatively, leave the prothalli in
place and apply a very dilute balanced
liquid fertilizer, a quarter of "normal"
strength, each 1non1h. Patching off can
then be delayed until tiny fronds of the
adul1 ferns are clearly visible. They are
sturdier, easier 10 handle, and beuer able
lo wi1hstand dis1urbance at this stage.
\,Vhen the roung fronds are growing
well , transplant into a tray in soilless
mix. \Va1er 1hem in carefully and grow
on under a bell jar or closed case. Once
established , harden off by gradually
admiuing more light and air. When
2-3in (5-Scm) tall, pol them singly
into 2-3in (5-Scm) pots. Grow on in
brigh1 indirect light, shaded from bright
sun and sheltered from wind. Provide
1ninilnum 1empera1ures 10 sui t each
species. Most new ferns are large enough
10 plant out in 2-3 years.
VEGETATIVE PROPAGATION
The methods of vege1alive increase
described here ,viii produce offspring
identical 10 the parent fern , providing a
means of building up stocks of cul1ivars
that never produce spores or do not
come true from spores.

160
 BULBILS AND PLANTLETS GROWING FERNS
Many forns p roduce bulbils, which look FROM BULBlLS
like fat, rou nd seeds, some of which
develop into plantlets wi th roots while
sti ll on the parent frond. Bulbils a nd
plantlets may develop al frond lips,
on or under the midrib, over the e ntire ht tl1c aurumn. select a frond
upper surface of the frond, or al the base
of the mid rib. ln their native habitats,
1(11erc of Asplenium bulbiferum)
duu is weighed down by bulbils and
they weigh down the frond lo ground cw ir <>JI nec,r rhe bose. Tiny new
level to root a nd extend the co lony. fronds may <1l,~ady be emerging
from 1hr bulbils (see inset).
PROPAGATING FROM MATURE BULBILS ,I
Most bulbils mature toward the end --
of the growing season, between late
summer and au tumn. A bulbiferous
frond may be detached and pinned
onto a tray containing a moist mixtu re
o f soilless seed mix, or equal parts peat
and sharp sand (see right), where the
bulbils will root. lf plantlets have
already developed, it is not necessary
to retain the leaflets of the parent frond
(see right, below).
Alternatively, the fro nd can be pinned
down in situ wh ile still auached lO the Pre1,cu-e a tray with moist, soilless seed mix. \Vmer the tray, allow 10 drain. label, and pw
parent plant, so that the bulbils root into
the surrounding soil while receiving
2 Peg dow11 tlie frond 011 1he surface of 1he 3 in an in{lllled, scaled, clear plas,ic bag. Keep
mix with win staples (see inset), Mc,ke sure inc, wan11, liglit place out of direa su11 01' i11 a
sustenance fro1n the parent. Once they 1/1a1 1hc ribs of 1he frond are i11 close co111ac, closed case i11 shade: hmdy species a, 59-68°F
have 3-4 fro nds, detach and pot them to willi the s1uface. (15-20'C), 1,vpical 011es a, 75-81°F (2-l-27°C).
grow on (see steps 4 and 5, rig/11). The
young ferns should be large enough to
harden off and plant in 3-4 1nonths, or
in late spring o r early summer outdoors
in colder climates.

PROPAGATING FROM DORMANT BULB ILS

The bases of the old fro nds of some
ferns, notabl)• Asplenium sco/opendrium
and its cu hivars, remain flesh)• and
green. \iVhen de tac hed near the rhizome
and planted, they produce a cl uster of
white bulbils near the base that can
be grown on to make new plants. \V/1e11 1hc bu/bi/s hal'C roo1cd, whe 1he 1ray Fill Jin (8011) J>OIS wuh mois,, soillcss
ln spring, lift the parent fern and
clean the so il from the base to expose
4 fmm tlie bag or closed cc,sc and ttmovt· the 5 11orri11g 111ix. Careful/,\ /101 individual
wire swples. Lif1 t<1d1 plm11le1, /1oldi11g ii by 1he plmulets. Ktt'JJ in a warm. liglu place; water
the old, apparently dead, frond bases. frond . C111 1/,e new p/an1/e1 free from 1he frond regu/ady mid give a lwlf-s1re11g1/1 liquid feed
Snap the frond cleanly away al its point witl1a llnife, if ,,ecessalj•. 111<n11hly. Pot them 011 as 1hcy dcl'f/op.
of auachment lO the rhizome. Trim away
dead material wilh a scalpel or sharp
knife lO leave a section about 2in (5cm) FRONDS WITH ROOTING PLANTLETS
long, with green , living 1naterial a t the
base. lnsen this upside d own, with the
green tissue pointing u pward just above
the surface, into a tray of soil-based seed
mix that has been sterilized with boiling
water a nd allowed to cool. Place the tray
in a new plastic bag, inflate, and seal.
Keep in bright indirect light at 59-68°F
os-20°cJ.
Within 1-3 months, each leaf base
will form green swel lings that develop
into sma ll , while bulbils. When they FROND WITH PLANTLETS In some a,ses, PREPARING T HE FROND Remove mature
develop roots, remove the frond from bulblls develop fronds and 1·001 sysiems while lccifle1s and any dead 111a11cr 011 1he frond by
the plastic bag, detach the bulbils, pol slill a11ached IO llie p<1re111 plant (here of pincl,ing 1hett1 off. Pin 1hefro11d 01110 <• 1r<1y of
singly (step 5, right) , and grow o n in a Diplaziu m proliferum). The frond can be soil 111ix (S£e step 2 above) and 1,01 1,lm11lets
closed case or plastic bag as for plantlets remo"etl <md used for propagmion. individually when they show new growilt.
grown from mature bulbils (see above).

161
PERENNIALS
DIVIDING AERIAL RHIZOMES OF FERNS
Select a strong, new rhizome {here on a
] Oavallia solida cuhivar) with ple111y of
l,ealll,y yow1gfro11ds. Rtmove" sectio11 6-l2i11
(15-30cm) l011g, c11tti11g straight across the
rhizome wirl1 ,,nmers.
SIMPLE DIVISION OF FERNS
Dividing established ferns is simple and
idea l when only a few plants are wanted.
IL may be the only practical means of
propagation for sterile forms such as
Polystichum setifen,m 'Pulcherrimum
Bevis'. Division sets back the parent and
is best done in early to midspring, to
give it a full growing season to recover.
Ferns that have upright rhizomes,
each with a crown or "shuulecock" of
fronds at its apex, can be divided LO
separate side-crowns that form around
the main crown . It is essential that the
divisions consist of completely intact
single crowns with roots. In some ferns,
as with Maueuccia stmthopteris or
Athyrium filix-femina, side-crowns arise
6-l2in ( l5-30cm) or more from the
main crown and can often be detached
without lifting the parent. \1/ith other
ferns, lift the plan t as growth begins
and divide as for herbaceous perennials
(see p.148) , separating individual crowns.
Trim away dead fronds and any damaged
rhizomes, and rub cut surfaces with
garden lime 10 seal the wounds.
Replant the parent and large divisions
of vigorous hardy ferns at once in their
permanent sites, and keep well watered
until reestablished. Pot small divisions,
and those of delicate or lender fen1s, in
3in (8cm) pots in free-draining, soilless
polling mix containing a slow-release
fertilizer. Place in a shaded, sheltered
site uniil new growth appears; outdoors
or in a cold frame for hardy species,
and under glass at an appropriate
temperature for tender ferns. Keep
even ly moist but do not overwater. Most
can be planted out after three months.
DIVISION OF FERN RHIZOMES
Ferns possessing rhizomes that creep
sideways, either below, at, or above the
soil surface, can be divided simply by
162
Cu, die 1'11izomc into sections about 2-Jin
2 (5-Bcm) l011g. Trim off the fro11ds, whic/1
may otherwise rot. Eacl, section should hm1e
(It le,.st one growth bud (see inse1). Longer
sections tend to be more s11ccessfuJ.
culling up the
rhizome with a
clean, sharp knife
or pruners in early
to midspring. Each
section can be on ly 2- 3in (S-8cn1)
long but n1ust have one or more
growing points and a root system. Pot
them individually into soilless potting
mix, and grow on in sheltered shade.
Keep them well watered until they start
into growth, which is usually within
2- 3 n1onths.
Terrestrial ferns, such as PhegopLeris
co1111ec1ilis or Gymt1ocarpium dryopteris,
usually have their rhizomes beneath the
soil, with fronds appearing from the
nodes. Growth buds are seldom visible
on underground rhizomes. In this case,
ensure that each section has 2-3 healthy
fronds , and a small root ball , at least 2in
(5cm) across, with an intact clump of
soil. On shon-creeping rhizomes, the
nodes are often congested, making shon
sections difficult to take. Sligh tly larger
divisions taken from well-established
colonies are most likely to be successful.
When dividing ferns with surface
rhizomes, as in Polypodium, il is vital
that each section has good roots. When
replanting or potting, ensure that the
rhizome is set at the same level as it was
Rhi~omr~ ,,,.e dosdy
\JHl<Ctf IJut '101 touclli11g
Fill" seed trc,y with a moist mix of cq,wl
3 pans soil, b(ltl:, fine grit or cocu-se swul,
and pe<11. Firm lightly, 1hc11 gc111ly press or peg
rhe rhizome sections about Jin (2.5cm) apart
into the su,j,,ce. Labd.
Keep humid in " dosed case, J1entcd if
4 nccess<1ry to 70°F (2 1°C). \Vhe11 the
sections are well rooted and fJYC producing
f ronds, usuall)' witl1in 4-6 momlis. pot them
individually in,o ,uoisr. soiflcss potting mix.
Label and grow on in Juunid shade.
before li fting; it will rot if buried.
Many epiphyli c and lithophytic
(rock-dwelling) ferns, such as Davallia,
produce aerial rhizomes that ,viii produce
roots and new fronds if severed a11d
pegged down on soil mix (see above)
in early spring. Alternatively, pin them
down on open ground while stil l
attached to the parent fern and sever
each plantlet when rooted.
PROPAGATION FROM STOLONS
Some ferns, for example Blechnum,
spread to form co lonies by subterranean
stolons, runners that produce new
plantlets at their apex and s01netimes at
the nodes. Detach young plantlets from
the paren t colony in spring, ensuring
that each has a well-developed root
S)'Stem. Pot into soilless pouing mix
with a liule added slow-release fertilizer,
keep evenly moist, and grow on in a
sheltered, shady si te. When they are
growing well , usually after 2-3 months,
plant out. Young plants may be slow
to grow; in colder clima1es, if the)' have
not made good growth b)' sun1mer,
overwinter in a frost-free place and
plant out in the following spring.
Some Nephrolepis have aerial stolons,
trailing stems that root where they touch
the soil. Promote thi.s habit by pinning

down stolons during the growing season
into 2-3in (5-Scm) pots in equal pans
peat or fine bark and sharp sand. Keep
evenly moist at 55°F (13°C) . In late
winter or early spring, when plantlets
begin 10 show growth, detach them from
the parent, pot, and grow on.
Some species, notably N. cordifolia,
produce small, scaly tubers at intervals
along the stolons. Remove these with a
short length of stolon when repouing in
late winter or early spring, then treat as
above, polling each tuber with a length
of stolon al the same depth as before.
P ROPAGATION FROM AURICLES
Ferns in the tropical family Marauiaceae,
which includes Angiopteris, Cl11iste11se11ia,
and ~·l<lrania, form enormous, upright
rhizomes topped by massive fronds up
10 15ft (5111) tall. At the swollen base
of each frond stalk, they bear a pair
of neshy, earlike growths known as
auricles that produce new plants fro1n
PROPAGATION FROM AURICLES
Remove a J,eallhy, undamaged auricle by
2 curring between it and ,he p<1rem rhizome
with " clean, sharp Jrnife. fill a 2-Jin (5-8cm)
3 (see inset) and dust 1he cul surface with
fungicide. lnsen rhe moide, base downward,
clay por wirh a moisr mix of equal pans coarse
sand and pe<11.
dormant buds. They can be induced to
root, if detached, 10 form a new plant.
Auricles may be detached at any time,
especially in the tropics; elsewhere, they
make most rapid growth if taken in late
winter or early spring. Root them in a
mixture of peat and sand (see below),
or insert the base in moist sand and top
with a layer of sphagnum moss to half
the auricle's depth . Keep humid in a
closed case or under mist at 75-81°F
(24-27°C) and in bright, indirect light.
IL takes 2-6 1nonths (less in tropical
regions) before new growth appears.
The auricles form visible buds, then
roots and finally shoots. In temperate
areas, it may take 12 or more months 10
form plants large enough to transplant.
Once fronds are recognizable, pol into a
li1ne-free n1ix of one part soil, 1,vo parts
sharp sand, three parts leaf mold , three
parts medium-grade bark, and one part
charcoal. Keep the plants moist at all
times and in high hu1nidity.
Trim any mots or snags on rhe cmride
so rhai 1he borrom Jwlf is buried below llie
surface. \\later in and label.
FERNS
LAYERING
Layering can be used for Lygodium, the
climbing ferns. Their fronds arise from
a climbing rachis (frond midrib) with
nodal joints. v\lhen the frond is growing
actively, between early spring and early
summer, pin a node onto the surface
of a pot of moist, sharp sand. Keep it
even ly moist, at a minimum of 59-68°F
05-20°C) in bright, filtered light, with
high hu1nidity. When strong new growth
emerges at the lip of the frond, sever the
layer and pot into equal parts leaf mold
or peat, soil-based polling mix, osmunda
fiber, and charcoal.
S EPARATING OFFSETS
Some tree ferns produce offsets from
their trunks (Did1so11ia and Cyathea) or
from the roots (Cyathea) . These usually
develop very slowly unless the parent's
main growing point is damaged. They
can be grown on if severed cleanly from
the parent trunk in spring.
Center the offset in a pot in a moist
mix of one part each of soil, medium-
grade bark, and charcoal, with two parts
sharp sand and three parts leaf ,nold.
Set it just deep enough so that iL sits
upright. Place in a closed case with high
humidity at 59-68°F (15- 20°C). in
bright, filtered light Harden off once
the offset begins to show new growth.
111 lore winur or early spring, sdccr a yo1111g,
1vigorous
rhc
f'lcmt (such as lhc Angiopre,is in
foreground). preferably loosely paclled
will,
aurides ar rhc base. Auricles from mature plcmrs
(in the background) mo, less readily.
4 Keep in a wann, briglu, humid place.
Adventitious buds sl1ould fonn within 2-6
months. Pot, or plant our, wl1en a strong root
system and small fronds Jwve develo1,cd (sec
above), usucdly in )2-18 monrhs.
163
PERENNIALS

SEEDS FROM CUS HION PLANTS

ALPINE PLANTS
T here is much similarity between the
methods used to propagate alpines
and those used for larger perennials and
sh rubs. The 1nos1 obvious difference,
and the one that raises most problems,
is one of scale. Cuuings are especially
small and fuss)•: some may be no more
than 1/.in (5mm) long.
The other key difference relates 10
the conditions alpines prefer. Whether
from high mountains or low altitudes,
the most important environmental
element 111os1 alpines have in common
is very good drainage. In cultivation.
including when being propagated, they
prefer a growing medium that is wa1er-
re1en1ivc }'Cl very free-draining. Standard
soi l mixes are generally unsuitable. Extra
grit or sand must be added ; pure sand or
even ground pumice is used for cunings
of certain plants.
GROWING FROM SEEDS
For many alpines, seeds are best sown
the moment they are ripe, not only for
those species whose seeds have short
viability, such as primroses. Seeds sown
fresh in ·early to midsummer (especially
those of Adonis. Androsace, Anemone,
Codonopsis, Co,ydalis, Oionysia,
Hepalica, lncarvillea, Meconopsis,
Primula, Pulsaiilla, and Ranunculus)
may germinate in on ly 2-3 weeks and
develop into strong, healthy new plants
by autumn. If seeds cannot be gathered
or purchased fresh, they are best sown
either in winter or early spring.
As with other plant groups, the seeds
of many species will come true 10 type,
but that of many cultivars will not;
usually their seedlings will be inferior,
but, just occasionally, an exceptionally
fine plant may arise. Whenever several
plants in the same genus grow in close
proximity, hybrids arc likely 10 occur,
especially with Aquilegia, Celmisia,
Geranium , Lewisia, Meconopsis,
Pensremo11, Primula, Saxifraga, and Viola.
GATHERING AND STORING SEEDS
Alpine seeds should be gathered as soon
as they are ripe (especially genera such
as Geranium and Eupl,orbia that scaner
seeds far and wide), cleaned, and sown
fresh or stored in a cool, dry place, or in
an airtight box in a refrigerator.
Gathering seeds of cushion alpines
often requires patience and diligence
( which is why the seeds are scarce and
valuable): b)' the time the fruits are ripe,
they may be buried among the new leaf
rosenes. You may need a hand lens 10
locate them , and tweezers to pry leaf
rosettes apart gent!)' and to remove the
tin y fruits or individual seeds.
PREPARING SEEDS FOR SOWING
So me alpine seeds will not genninate
until they have received a period of cold
s1ra1ifica1ion (see p.152-3), si mulating
natural alpine conditions. In colder
climates, winter in the open garden
usually provides all the cold that is
necessary: pots of seeds can be left in
a ventilated cold frame. Winter-sown
seeds can germinate quickly, and the
seedlings may need pro1ec1ion (see
p.45). Alternatively, cheat the seasons
by putting seeds in the refrigerator for a
time (see facing page) , then taking them
outside 10 a cold frame 10 germinate.
Hard-coated alpine seeds are usually
far too small to ch ip or scarify (see also
p.152), but some seeds can be soa ked
before sowing 10 aid germination,
Fruils - a1,,suks - (>JIcusl,ion o,. mm-Jonuing
"lpinfS (J1crc Androsace hi nclla) cw1 be ti tty
and l1idtle11 among rhc nc.·w gmwrh. Gmlitr (lie
fruirs. a1psulcs. or singk stcds using twtezt·, s.
especially older, fleshy seeds that have
become wrinkled and shrunken in
storage; Cycfomen and Trof)acolwn seeds
are good exa1nplcs. Soak the seeds for
12-24 hours in 1epid water (adding a
drop of liquid soap helps water uptake),
then drain and sow immediately.
SOWING SEEDS OF ALPINES
Hygiene is especially vital with alpines:
seeds and seed lings are tin>' and easily
swamped by weeds, liverworts, and
mosses. Soil mixes and pots must be
clean, if not sterile. A good all-purpose
seed so il mix for alpines consists of
equal pans of soil-based seed mix or
sterilized soil and either fine sharp grit
or coarse sand. Use horticultural sand:
coastal sand contains salt, which will
kill seedlings. 1f using a peat-based
mix, or for alpines that demand very
sharp drainage such as Acan1holimo11
and Dionysia , double the amount of
grit or sand.

POT SOWN WITH FINE SEEDS OF ALPINES SOWING ALPINE SEEDS

St'c:ds h1
fi,1c sa,ul

~ - Griuy sad
soil rn1.x

Put a l<,yer of l,rol1e11 pots

or rocli chips in the bottom.
rhe11 fill ro wi1hi11 ¼i11 (2cm)
of rite rim wid1soil mix.
A good mix rs 011c /Kfft peat-
based seed mix to two pans
fine grit or com·sc sand. \\/me, Sow steds evenly o\•er the smfacc. covering all
well, then allow'" drain. Sow bur fi11e seeds (see left) wirh a li11le soil mix. Add
o,·ai1wge
1/ie seeds fi11ely over 1/ic surface 1/- l!i11 (5-IOmm) offine g,·ir ro protea the suds.
foyer·_ i11 a ¼in (2-Jmm) layer offi11c \\later <md llibd. Trc,nspl<mt seedlings wlten tliey
horriculrurnl scmd. produce two 1rne leaves, wp-<lressi11g with a ¼in
(Ic,11) layu of fi11e gri1 (see inset).

164
 ALPINE PLANTS

SEED STRATIFI CATI ON
Sow :,cc<ls ,rs 11or11wl (sec facing page, below).
Se<1I rhr pol i11 a plastic bag to llecp rhr ,oil mix
moist. Plaa in the borrom oj er n..'frigcraw, Jo,
4-5 '"cells, Rcmo-..c the bag w,cl 17lt1u outcloo,s.
Thin-sowing is essential, tapping seeds
carefull)' from the hand or packet (larger
seeds ca n be placed individually). Most
seeds sown in soil mix need covering
with a very fine dusting of mix, but care
must be taken not to bury the seeds.
Very fine seeds can be mixed with dry
fine sand 10 help distribute the seeds
thinly and evenly. For such seeds, no
soil mix covering is needed. A thin layer
of fine, sharp grit helps retain moisture
and suppresses mosses and liverworts,
and it also prevents the seeds from being
washed out by watering or, if pots arc in
the open, heavy rain. Place I he labeled
pots in a cool, partly shaded position
outdoors: a cold frame is ideal.
Transplant into trays, individual pots, or
cells; the lauer are best for the majority
or tu fted and cushion-forming alpines.
Use the same free-draining soi l mixes
as for sowing seeds. Firm the mix only
gently, water it thoroughly, and allow
10 drain. Make a hole large enough 10
contain the roots, insert each seedling,
filter in more soil mix, and firm gentl)'.
Cover the mix right up 10 the neck of
the plant with a '/.-'hin (6-12mm) layer
of fine grit. This keeps the surface of the
soil mix cool and weed-free but, more
importantly, ensures perfect drainage
around the neck, which is otherwise
prone to fungal auacks.
HARDY GESNERIADS FROM SEEDS
This group, which includes Haberlea,
Janlwea, and Ramonda (and, culturally
speaking, dwarf rhododendrons), needs
special treatment. The seeds are almost
dustlike and 1nus1 be surface-sown; the
seedlings are very prone to desiccation
and vulnerable 10 infections. Seeds arc
best sown as for fern spores (see also
p. I 60) on live, finely chopped sphagnum
SOWING SEEDS ON MOSS
moss (sec below) or on sterilized peat-
based seed soil mix, then germinated in
an enclosed environment.
If using soil mix , fill a pot with it and
finn, then water with boiling water to
sterilize the mix. Allow it 10 drain and
cool, then sow thinly on the surface, as
for moss (see below).
Cover the container ilnmcdiately
after sowing, either in a closed case or
ten ted and sealed in a plastic bag, or in
a clear plastic container with a lid. Seal
a loose lid with tape. Leave in a cool,
shaded place. The seeds do not usually
need watering for a long time, but,
should it become necessary, water from
below or lightly mist over the top. Do
this quickly: the more often the lids arc
removed and the longer they are left
open, the greater the chance of in fection
with spores of various mosses and fungi.
The seedlings develop very slowly
and should be left undisturbed still in
their sealed container until the second
or even th ird year. Transplant them into
peat-based mix and gradually wean
them from their protected environment.
WU.sh ,umds thorouglily
or wt"ar surgm:d glo\'C's

GERMINATION OF SEEDS
This varies enormous!)' from species
10 species: it may take place wilhin days
of sowing, or anything up 10 four years \Viili scisso,s 011 a clc,111 surf,,ce, chol' u11 er Fill rhc bo,\I wirh btJiliug water w stenlize
later. Erratic germination can pose a
problem, especially if seeds con tinue to
1few J1cmdfuls of spJwgmm1 moss inro rin 2 the mo~~: rhc11 llflow u to cool. Squcezt• our
(2.5cm) JJicct~s tmrl place in u dean. gfoh J,owJ. th,, c.xuss moisture. Plt1ce a l-2in (2.5-5cm)
germinate in the sa,ne pot over a period Use (15 mud, grfen, Jrrsh moss Cb pos:,il,k. lt1y,,r of the moss iu a small. sre, Wt.eel co11wi11e,:
of a year or more. ldeall)•, carefully tease
out and transplant early seedlings, then
fill in gaps in the seed pol wilh more
soil mix and return it 10 i1s previous Ot,mp liantljuh
position 10 await further germination. of moss

C ARE OF SEEDLING ALPINES

Once 1hcy arc large enough to handle,
the majority of seedling alpines should
be transplanted carefully. If the seeds
germinate in early winter, however, it
is best to leave them undisturbed until
spring. Some alpines are best left in their
seed pots for a year or more.
Many alpines develop an extensive
root sys1e1n when they arc very )'Oung,
and transplanting must be done wilh
grea1 care 10 avoid damage. Although Scatter the seeds on wp ,,j die moss. Fine TJ1e seeds shoul<l genninllle tifter 4-6 Wf('ks
in some cases seedlings are on ly '/~½in
(5-10111111) tall, as with other seedlings,
3 sfeds can be sown more evenly using a fol<lcll
/>ice, of /Jllper o,· carrlboa,t/. Sad the co11wi11er
4 (see inset). Ventilate rite co11wi11e1 by
removing rhe licl at regular' i111r1,•t1ls ro prn•c,u
hand le only the leaves 10 avoid with,, lfrl, theu label (sec inset). Place in a cc-x,I, cltm11.,ing off. Grow 011 Jo,·2-.3 yetlr) until the
damaging the fragile young stems. shatly />lace or i11 11 sh11dcd cold frame. stctllings become largt enough to hcmcllc.

165
PERENNIALS
TAKING CUTTINGS
Cunings are a good way of propagating
many alpines, especially named hybrids
and cultivars, which are unlikely to
come true from seeds. As with larger
plants, s tems, leaves, and roots can all
be used, but the cushion and rosette-
and mat-fonning alpines all require
special techniques. Expensive equ ipmen t
is unnecessary, since 1nosl alpines can
be increased with simple methods and
so,ne very basic equipment, although
tweezers and a scalpel are useful tools
for dealing with tiny pieces of plant
material. Stem cuuings may be ¼-¼in
(3-5 111111) long, but s maller cunings
¼.-¼in ( l-3mm) long often need to be
taken, even smaller for choice Dionysia ,
Saxifraga, and Ge111ia11a.
The prime rules for taking any
cuttings apply equally to alpines: use
very clean, sharp culling tools; select
healthy, nonOowering material; never
allow cuttings to dry out, ei ther when
preparing them or when growing them
on; and keep pests and diseases al bay.
Honnone rooting compounds can be
helpful , especial!)• for woody alpines such
as mall)' dwarf ericaceous plan tS, daphncs,
and alpine willows (sec Sh rubs and
Climbing Plants, pp.11 g_J45), but many
cunings root satisfactorily without them.
A good medium for cuuings of many
alpines is made with equal parts of a
standard soil-based rooting medium and
coarse sand. Even this may not be free-
draining enough for certain alpines:
pure horticultural sand or even ground
pumice (see opposite) can be used for
difficult-to-root plants such as Dionysia
and some Saxifraga.
Most prepared cuuings may be
inserted in polS, pans, or trays in suitable
medium , sand, o r pumice. They should
be spaced in rows in trays or around the
perimeter of a pol or pan. Label each
container and water in the cunings with
a fungicide. Cunings root satisfactorily
TYPES OF CUTTINGS OF ALPINE PLANTS
BASAL
"shon stem. 1;·im
base bel1Jw ,, 11mlc.
SEMI-RIPE
From stems rhar cu-c
just hardeuing bu1
1101 yet woo,ly (here
of Phlox), wl,c
J ¼in (Jou) lf11g1l1s.
Strip t!,c bmw111
½irt (1011) of stem.
166
in a sheltered place, usually at 50-59°F
( 10-15°C) out of direct sunligh t. They
should also be covered to keep them
humid and avoid moisture loss. Suitable
sites are a cool, well-lit ,vindowsill,
under a glass jar or clear plastic bag,
in an unheated closed case o r shaded
cold frame , o r even on a bench in a
greenhouse o r alpine house. Gentle
bonom heat of 55-64°F (13-l8°C) is
not vital, but it speeds rooting.
While the cuttings are rooting and
growing on, any that show signs of
distress, dying back, o r of fungal
infection shou ld be rc,noved quickly,
otherwise the whole batch of cuttings
may be affected . Pot the cunings once
they have rooted: this will be indicated
by renewed shoot growth or roots
appearing through the base of the pot.
STEM-TIP CUTTINGS
These are essentially si milar to those
taken from larger herbaceous plants.
Softwood cuttings are taken from young,
TAKING CUTTINGS OF ALPINES
Select strong. 11011jloweti11g shoots (11erc from
1 Gypsophila rcpens) and wlie cuttings from
different areas the l'lanr. Place tht· cuu ings iu
011
a plastic bag co prevent wilting.
SOFTWOOD
Tctke the soft liJ>S
of 11ew. green shoots
(11ue ofGypsophila)
in <,clive grvw1l1.
Cu11i11gs should be
J-Jin (2.5-7c111) < lowe,. ½in ( 1cm)
long.
RIPEWOOD
Tc,ke f.-0111 fully ripe,
new shoots (here of
( Oryas) about Jiu
(2.5cm) i11 length .
• n ·im to lca\'t about
¼in (J cm) of Siem
clear m the bllsc.
green shoolS in active growth in the
spring or early summer before the
new shoots begin 10 harden and ripen.
Greenwood cuuings are slightly more
mature: leafy shoots where growth has
slowed but 1101 hardened and is still
quite soft and sappy. They are taken in
early stunm er. As these shoots mature,
they become firm, or sem i-ripe. Shoots
of the cu rrent year's growth that are fully
ripened and woody furnish hardwood
(or frotn evergreens, ripewood) cuttings
of man>• al pine plan ls. These cuuings
can be taken from midsumm er until
autumn , depending on the plant.
Trim the cu uings to just below a
node (except for Clematis, which should
be internodal) and trim off lower leaves
close 10 the s1e111. Soft growing tips can
be pinched out , especially if wilting.
BASAL AND ROSETTE CUTTINGS
T hese are the most important of al l
for alpine plants, since many are rosette-
forming cush ions and carpets. Take the
Ptf/>tlft'<l
ClltlOlg
1rim the curdugs os inclicntt'tl below. using a
2 clean, sharp lmifc ur scalpel. Fill a pot wi1l1
gri,ry rooting medium, insen tht• cuttings to the
,cquired dq!lh (see below), and Jim , in.
GREENWOOD ROSETTE
Tctke J- .li11 (2.5-7c111) Taite new rosettes
lc11gthsfro111 soft tips at the pla111 edges
(11e,c ofErodium) (11Crc ofSaxifraga).
when growth slows Cut Y-½in
down. ·frim the (5-10111111) below
< rhe lc"vcs. Trim
of the culling. lower third of stem.
L EAF SELF-ROOTING
Remove mawrc, Brush away smfacc
henfd1y. u11dmnagcd soil around the edge
leaves (hae of of the 11fo111 ,md lift
Sedum). Cur each motcd pieces (here
leaf as close to the of Veronica). Trim
base of the pla111 or off sidcsl,oors a11d
s1eni as possible. strnggly mots.
 ALPINE PLANTS

TAKING ALPI NE ROOT CUTTINGS ROOT CUTTINGS

Gritty ,-ooting metlium
Sclr<tt•,l ,.oors A few alpine plants, including Anch11sa

of Primulo
dc111icula1a (
_/
...
111 f<He "'""''"'• lifr a healcliy plwu. Cw off
1 thick, healthy roots close to Jhe crown. Cui
each one i,uo 11/.-2in ('1- 5rm) pieces, ruc,l1i11g
an angled Cul <H the lower e,ul.
cunings in late spring and in summer.
Handle paren t plants wi th care, for they
are easily bruised, and any damage may
invite in fungal infections. The cuttings
often have very short stems, so they
need to be 1aken and trim,ned with care.
Rosene cuttings are best placed in rows
in irays or in pots. Rooting is slow and
rather spasmodic.
Oionysia is ofte11 particularly difficu lt
to roo1, being prone to rotting off. For
1hese and several other plants (see box,
below), some com,nercial growers
advocate using crushed pumice instead
of rooting medium (see below) . Cunings
will require only occasional watering.
This is best accomplished b)' placing
pots in a deep tray of water for an hour.
SELF-ROOTED CUTTINGS
Many alpines fonn ma ts or tufts tha1
roo1 down at intervals or produce
creeping, rooting stems (runners) or
ROSETTE CUTTINGS IN GROUND PUMICE
!
Root
_/J Firae gti1 I t:11Uing
} best time for this is in late autun1n and
1
·.-
• • - \\~nter. Pure sharp sand is an alternative
• to rooting medium for some plants. Keep
••·
< .;
"•
' ,.
<
..
Pur drnilurge material i11 rhe base of a large
2 lwlf /JOI. Fill wir/1 rooti11g medi11m.111sen the
cutrings so 1l1e siraiglit entls are /Jush with die
s111face. Layer ½i11 ( 1cm) offine grit 011 rop.
rh izomes. Removing rooted portions
is s imple and has the advantage of not
disturbing the parent plant undul)'· Take
the cuttings in late spring and summer
when the plants are in active gYowth
by cutting off pieces wiLh a sharp knife.
Self-rooted cuttings do not need to be
covered once potted.
LEAF CUTTINGS
A few alpines can be propagated fr01n
single leaves, particularly those that
have firm or fleshy foliage; summer is
the best time. Selec1ed leaves should
be mature and healthy wi th no sign of
dieback or yellowing. Insert the bottom
quarter o r third of the leaf upright in
the medium, o r preferabl)' at 45° (with
the upper leaf surface uppennost).
Water spari ngly unti l the cuttings
root to avoid the possibilit)' of rot. Pot
on each cutting once new leaves or
shoo1s appear at the base of the leaf.
caespicosa, Morisia, and Primula
de11tic11lata, can be grown from root
cuttings (see left and p.158). Select only
the thickest and healthiest roots. The
slightly moist, but not wet. Pot cuttings
once new growth appears.
D IVISION
Many alpine perennials, including some
alpine Dianthus, can be propagated by
simple division, in the same way as thei r
larger relatives (see p.148) . Being smaller,
alpines need to be handled with greater
care; sotn e easily fall apart when lifted.
Most suitable are those alpines that form
clumps with a mass of fibrous roots,
such as alpine Achillea and Camp<m11la,
Arenaria, Celmisia, and Gentiana acaulis.
Unsuitable for division arc the majority
of cushion alpines (cushions are easily
ruined by lifting), panicularly alpines
wi th a central crown or a simple taproot,
such as Androsace and Oionysia.
Lift plants in early spring as growth
starts, or after they have flowered.
Remove some of the soil to expose the
roots. Tease the plant apart into sizeable
pieces, ensuring that each separated
portion has plenty of sustaining roots.
Replant i1nmediately: if planting in the
same area , first work over the soil lightly
and add some compost and bonemeal.
Smaller portions 1hat inevitably separate,
or larger pieces with few roots, can be
poned as for cuttings and grown
on under cover, fo r example in a
cold frame, until well established.
GRO UN D PUMICE

'' .
'

Finely ground 1mmice, derived

Selccr a l,calthy roserre from rhc
1 edge of 1l,e pla111 (liel'e Dionysia
aretioidcs). S te,uly tli, roserrc will,
1weez:ers and cut the s1em ~½in
(5-IOmm) below rhc shoor rip.
Carefully rrim off 11,c lower
2 leaves f rom the lower 1hird of
e"d' roselle (see inset). Dip 1l,e
base of each cutting in hormone
rooting co,npound.
from Icelandic volcanic rocll, is
3
Fill" 2i11 (5cm) day 1101 wirh
ground pumice lO within ¼in
rorafly srerile and is sufficienrfy
warer•retentive for alpines. It is
(I cm) of rhr rim. llfrrer from below available from alpine suppliers
mid llllow to drain. Insert cuttings in some areas.
¼in ( 1cm) "J"ffl. Finn mul label.

P LANTS TO ROOT IN PUMICE

ANDROSAC~ (syn. Douglasia) D10NYS1,1 especially D. curviflora, D. mollissima SAXIFRAGA Small , rare. cushion
Srnall cushion s pecies: A.ciliara, D. wperodes, D. microphy lla. G YPSOPHILA G . arerioides l)'pes. especially soflcr types:
A. cylimlrica and A. va,ulellii D. freiwgii MYOSOl IS M. pulvinaris S. cebe11ne11sis, S. opposi1ifolia,
CELM ISIA C. sessiliflora DI\AIIA 0 . rigida var. b,yllides, R,10UUA All species S. poluniniana. S. 1mbesce11s

167
 PERENNLALS
WATER GARDEN PLANTS
T rue aquatic plants are those that
grow with their roots, and often pan
or all of their topgrowth, permanently
submerged in either water or saiura1ed
soil. They include bog plants such as
Lysichito11, which thrive in wa1erlogged
soil; marginals (such as Iris laevigata),
which grow in shallow water; water
weeds such as Myriophyllum , submerged
plants that help oxygena1e the water;
deep-wa1er noating-leaved plants such
as waterlilies (Nymphae<1); and surface-
noaters (for example, Pistia str<llioles),
whose roots trai l frecl)', absorbing
nutrients from the water.
M ETHODS OF PROPAGATION
Most aquatic plants reproduce readily
by vegetative 1neans. Many multipl)'
by producing new plan1lc1s, either on
noating stems or from questing roots. In
tropica l and subtropical areas especially,
certain aquatic plants (such as the water
hyacinth, Eid1hor11ia crassipcs) thrive so
well that they are regarded as invasive
weeds and even clog waterways.
In small ponds, plants must be
thinned and divided regular!)' to avoid
crowding, and this may result in more
plants than the pond can accommoda1e.
Replant onl)' the )'Ounger and ,nost
vigorous portions and discard old,
unproductive pans 10 rejuvena1c
the en1ire plan1ing. In garden ponds,
aquatics ma)' be grown in meshed
planting baskets, which makes it easier
10 lift and divide clump-forming plants,
such as some Cyperus, and rhizomatous
A- 2 OF PLANTS FOR THE WATER GARDEN
1\cORU> Divide rhizomes in s pring l-
1\U)\fA \VArLR PLA~TAll\ Divide rhizomes
in spring!. Sow seeds rresh or store dry for
spring sowing at 59°F ( I 5°C) ll,
APONOCE'TON Divide rhizomes in spring;
grow o n at 59°F (I 5°C) l- Sow fresh seeds
a, 59°F o s•c) l-
Bt fO,\llt.\ Ft 0\\'1 RING RL::tl-l, \.VAi rR Gu\DIOLl.iS
Divide in early spring; grow on bulbils ~-
Sow fresh seeds at 59°F ( I 5°C) U-
CA1 I.A B<K, A Rt" Divide in spring l- Sow
fresh seeds a, 50°1' (I0°C) u.
CALTHA MARSH MARIGOLD Divide in
late summer or earl)' spring,.
Sow rresh seeds a1 50°F
(I0°C) l-
CnflU.'.S Divide in
spring l- Plantlc1s in summer l-
Sow seeds in spring~ tender
species at 70°F (l 1°C) u. Take
cuuings when in growth!,
E1cm10RNIA \VAl ER HYACI, TH De1ach
E1Ct1t10RNIA CRASSIPES
168
plants, such as cauail (Typha).
Standard plastic pols with man)'
drainage holes may also be used.
Free-noating plants and loosely
rooting submerged weeds can be
th inned and separated by combing
or neuing 1hem from the water.
Other propagation methods, such
as seeds or cuttings, often require more
aftercare, with new plants need ing 10 be
raised in controll ed conditions that
mim ic their growing enviromnenl.
There arc special, soil-based aqua1ic
mixes available for water garden plants,
but a hcav)' soil or soil-based potting
mix is also suitable.
DIVISION
Division is cenain l)' 1he simplest
means of increase for fibrous-rooted
plants such as sedges and o ther
marginals, plus certain tuberous and
rhizo1na1ous plants including waterlilies.
Plantlets may be separated from man)'
aquatics without lifting the parent.
In general , divide plants in active
growth, preferably in late spring, so
that the wounds heal quick!)'- With
some exceptions, it is best not 10 divide
dormant plants, because low water
temperatures increase the risk of rot.
Take care 1101 10 increase algal
blanket weed in the process; tiny traces
of it are easily overlooked, so thorough!)'
wash the stems, foliage, and roots of
divisions to ensure they are free of fine
algal fila1nents before you replant.
offsets in summer: overwinter al 45°F (7°C) , .
NOlfTTLIJ"1M Divide rhizomes or plantlc1s in
spring l-Sow seeds fresh at 50°F ( I 0°C) ll-
Takc cu11ings in late spring~-
1/J'DROCHARJS FROGBIT Pla111lets in spring or
summer l- Sow seeds rresh a, 500F ( 10°C) l-
l R1~ Divide rhizomes after nowcring , . Sow
seeds fres h at 5001' ( I 0°C) l-
1..Ac;aR0s1P110., (S)'n. Elodea) Take cuttings in
spring or early summer!, Can be invasive.
Lrs1C11tTON Divide in spring after
Oowering ,. Sow seeds fresh or in
spring 31 50°F (I 0°C) u.
MENTHA AQV,\TlCA \VATER~·H"IT
Divide in spring or
amumn l , Sow seeds
in Spring al 50°F (10°C) l-
Cuuings in spring or summer,.
M t:Nl~NT lif:~ rRlf"OJ UIA BOC..IH.A-..:
Divide in spring j. Sow seeds fresh at
, 0°F ( 10°C) U- Cuttings in s pring l -
N1-tl'MBO LOTUS Divide in springl.
Sow scarified seeds at 77°1' (25°C) in
springU.
DIVIDING WATE RLILIES
In spring,
1lift a maiurr
dump whfu thr
fem cs begin w appcm.
Dip the pltmt III wtw.·r
and ctirt.'fuUv wash 1l1e
soil Jro111 1hr l'O()(S.
o,.,((m,
olcl, \vdod)
rl1i~ome
Cut the rl1izomc into sections, each wirh
2 2-J growth buds. 1i·im c1wtty CIIIJ damaged
roob . Pot each srcrion c111cl ketp i11
0 1 O\.Cl'lo11g
shallow water 11111il tlti•y sltow signs o( gmw1h.
NL'PHAR Yi:u O\\ P<.)'10 Lit\' Divide in spring,.
NL\frttM:.A \VA1t--Rt 11,· Divide in spring j.
Plantlcts in summer i. Sow seeds fresh o r in
spring; hardy species al 50-55°F ( 10-13°C).
iro pical o nes at 73-81°F (23-27°C) ll- Roo,-
bud cuttings in spring or early summer,.
0Ro., HUM GOLD['\ CLUB Divide in spring,.
Sow seeds fresh at 50°1' ( I 0°C) ll-
P1-t ''"OAA ARR(.)\\ \Rll\\ Divide in spring 1,
Pl511A \V,\T[R LCTTUCt Plantltts in summer,.
Po,, TFOERU PICK[REI \\'EEO OR Rl,;:,,li Divide in
late springl. Sow seeds fresh a, 500F OOOC) jl.
POT,UfOCETO/\' As for Lagarosiphon ,.
RANL.,c1 ·rt ·s AQI Arn rs, R. rINGVA Divide in
spring or late summer l , Sow seeds fresh at
50°F ( L0°C) u.Cut1ings ahcr Oowcri ng u.
SAGITTARM ARROWHEAD Deiaeh plant lets or
tubers in springl, Sow seeds fresh at 50°F
(10°C) u.
SrRATIOTES ALOIDF.S Detach plantleis in
su1nmcr or turions in autumn!,
Tinu CATTAIL Divide in spring l-
v,croRJA G1M,:r WATERUI.Y Sow seeds in
winter or early s pring a, 8-l-90°F (29-32°().

D IVIDING CLUMP- FORMING PLANTS
Some clump-ronning perennials, mainl)'
marginal plan Ls such as sedges (Carex),
mar be simpl)' lir1ed and pulled apart b)•
hand as [or an)' fibrous-rooted perennial
(see p.148). urt the entire clump, Lhen
pull or cut orr sections, about a handrut
in size, with good roots. Discard the
older, central part or the clump, then
replant the new divisions.
Small divisions may be polled to
grow on until established; place the pots
in a larger container rilled with water up
10 Lhe level or the soil ,nix. Keep frost-
free over winter where necessary.
DETACHING OFFSETS
In sining, n•moH'
1fromigoro11sflo<11i11g
, 1
the
JJlcmt by snapping
llirough rite long.
ccmnccting stems.
SEPARATING WATERLILY PLANTLETS
These plmulcts are from flmvc1 ing slwots: they
2 arc at differing swgcs of d,·velo1m1e111 bur c11n
<111 br g,own on IO form new plants. Tr·im off the old
flower stem and any damaged mt11r1ial, Fm a baslu;1
or large pot with ac111atic soil mix or heavy soil.
DIVIDING RHIZOMES AND TUBERS
A number or water garden plants have
rhizomatous or tuberous roots. Divide
these in spring or early summer. Hardy
waterlilies (except for Ny111phaec1
te1rago11a, which is raised rrom seeds) are
often increased in this wa)', but even ir
)'OU do not need 10 increase stocks, it is
a good idea to Ifft and divide waterlilies
every few years to rejuvenate them. Some
have a roughly conical rhizome around
which new growth points develop; you
can cuL away as linle as a single one or
these with a sprout or leaves and so,ne
fibrous roots 10 pot and grow on (see
1>lantlcu
/)(fftnt
Pl11ce rhr pla11llc1 in 1lte
2 wmr, : suppor r ir Jo, a
lilrlr 1111ril u jlom, 11p1igl11
Ai, sacs at 1hc bast• of 1ht·
leaf Jlccp it buowmr. mul n,·w
s.lw<H) shnulcl .soon cln dop.
1
After flow,·, ing. St'lcct
1a l1c<1lll1y plmulc1 with
good roo1s. Thb 011c lws
formed 011 1hr flowfl'
sum, bur mhcr wmn lilks
,,mducc 11lanrle1s at the
basrs of th,· lrcivcs. Pull
du: pltmtlcl up <1ml CIWll)
{mm tlir rest of 1he plmlt.
T11e sum should lnw1h
without much ,rsistmtet'.
becauSt' ii begins to ,-or
and the pla111lrt starts
ral:ing up nurrifnb
througl1 irs own roots.
h1sen each ,,1a11tler up to us cmwn in
3 the !I.Oil ,uix tmcl securf rhrm wirh wire
hoops. Co\'cr with ll thin layrr of grave-I,
leaving growing pouus cxposccl (sec inset).
rhcn labd. Grow on in shallow water.
WATER GARDEN PLANTS
facing page). Rhizomes or other water-
lilies such as N. odorara and N. tubcrosa
extend horizontally, with sprouts or
leaves and roots at intervals. Although
they look different from conical
rhizomes, the principle is the san1e. Cut
the rhizome into sections, each ,vith
some leaf and rooL growth anached.
Replant the divisions in containers
just below soil level, in fresh aquatic
soil mix. Return large divisions 10 their
permanent positions. Raise them on
bricks to enable the young stems to
reach the surface and gradually lower
them as the stems grow. Keep small
divisions frost-free over winter under
shallow water, jusL deep enough 10
allow Lheir stems to noal freely. As Lhe
new growth appears, gradually increase
the depth, always ensuring that the tips
or the shoots and the unfurled leaves are
at the surface.
All rhizomatous and tuberous aquatic
planLS are divided in much the sa,ne
way. Some rhizomes are easy Lo pull
apart by hand, but with others you will
need a sharp knife. Irises, often divided
in autumn, usually require cutting.
Make sure that each division includes a
section or rhizome with rooLS and a fan
or leaves, as ror garden irises (see p.149).
Trim back Lhe leaf fan 10 about 3-4i'n
(8-lOcm) , then replant.
SEPARATING PLANTLETS
Man)' aquatic plants produce young
plantleLs; these may be detached from
the parent and grown on independently.
Many types or free-noaLing plant
reproduce in this way, developing offsets
that detach naturallr and noal away or
quickly rooL into mudd)' shallows. So,ne
form clumps of rosenes, such as Pistia;
break off the offseLS (see above left) Lo
hasten the process.
Other plants, such as Str<Hiores aloides
and some, 1nostly tropical, waterlilies,
form plant lets on long nowering stems
that must be severed (sec left) . Some
1ropical waterlilies may produce a
plan1le1 on almost every !ear, at the top
or the tear stalk, that may even bloom
while SLill attached to the parent. You
can detach the plantlet easily once the
!car starts to disintegrate, or rooL it by
pinning the leaf down onto a pot or
aquatic soi l mix as for oLher perennials
(see p.l 50). Either detach the tear from
the parent and keep the pol in shallow
water or position a pot under the leaf
and allow it 10 root berore culling it free.
The dwarr paper reed, Cyperus
papyrus 'Nanus' , forms plantleLS in its
nowerheads. Encourage Lhese to root
by bending the stalk and burying the
nowerhead in a partly immersed
container of soil. Once the plantlets
root, they may be divided and poned
separately to grow on.
169
 PERENNIALS

GATHERING AND SOWING SEEDS OF WATER GARDEN PLANTS

Gather seeds from ripe seedlict,ds in summer
1 or a111111m1. Cur off d,y C<l/>Sulcs (here of Iris
laeviga1a) , and brenl: them open. Seeds should
be sown immediately UJJOn gathering: if rhis is
not possible. srort tl1em in vials of wmcr.
Fill a 5i11 ( 13cm) pol wir/1 ge111Jy finned
2 a<11uuic soiJ mix or soil-bclsed potting
mix, then SOh'll,e seeds evenly over the smfncc.
Cove,· wi1/t a ¼i11 (.5111111) layer offine grir: 1Ji is
will help retain mois111rc. Label.
3
S1a11d 11,c por in a lt1rgc bowl rlt,11 is ,1 Ji1r/e
deeper dum rhc pol. Add w<Her ro the lx,wl
wuH ir just covers the po1. Place in bright ligl1t
c,t rhc <lJJf'l'Ol'rime tempermurc for the plwu
until rhr seeds gcrn1inmc (sec inscl).

SEEDS GATHERING WATERL ILY SEEDS

Raising aquatic plants from seeds can be
quite a slow process, with some raking
3-4 years o r more to reach flowering
size, but it is useful if you require a
large number of plants or where it
is not possible 10 rake divisions or
cuuings. It is suitable for mall)' plants
that are valued for their flowers, such
as waterlili es, lotuses (Nd umbo) ,
Apo11ogeto11 disrachyos, and Orontium
aqumicum. As wi th other plants, seeds
of cultivars may not come _true to t)-pe.

G ATHERING SEEDS
Gather seeds of water garden plants as
soon as they are ripe in summer or in
autumn. It is best to sow the seeds
immediately, but if necessary they may
be stored in vials of clean water in a
cool, dark place for sowing in spring.
Storing seeds in 1noist peat is not
recommended. Seeds of o nly a very
few water plants, such as Alisma and
Mentlia, can be dried for later sowing.
Some plants set seeds freely, such
as the water plantain (Alisma pla111ago-
aquc1tica}, while others, such as cauails
(Ty1,ha), may yield fertile seeds o nly
occasional ly or, as with tender water-
lilies, on ly in warm climates. Some
water plants bear fruits or berries, which
must first be macerated to extract the
seeds (see pp.151-2) .
With the excepti on of Nymphaea
lelrago11a, hardy waterlilies set seeds
infrequently, while tropical kinds
generally seed freely. To save seeds,
enclose a pod in a muslin bag (see
above riglH) . Never let the seeds dr)•
ou t; sow them by smearing them in their
aqueous jelly over the surface of the
growing medium . Wash off the jelly if
you wish 10 store the seeds over winter.
To harvest the seeclpods 1 wrcrp some muslin
loosely around the bud c1.s soon ns rlre flower
f<tdes. Sccm-e it with twine cirowul llit stem to
llee1, the seed mass inracc as it sinks to 111c bottom.
The seeds al'e held i11 a11 t1q11eo11s jelly 1/tar
disperses as 1he secclpad l'ipens a11d disi111egra1cs
(see right) . Rerrieve rhe seeds cif1er 2-3 wee/is.
S OWING SEEDS
First prepare pots or deep trays with
aquatic soil mix , soil-based polling
mix, or sieved garden soil (see p.152).
Do not add fertilizer, because it
encourages algal growth, which could
smother the seedlings. Sow the seeds
evenly on the surface and cover with
their o,vn depth of fine grit. Seedlings
need wet soil, so stand the pot or tray
in a larger container of water so that
it is partially submerged or just covered,
as in its natural habitat (see top of page}.
Seeds of hardi er plants ma)• gern1ina1c
without artificial heat if covered with
UNRIPE SPLIT
POD RIPE POD POD
a sheet of glass raised enough to allow
air circulation , in a bright, sheltered
place. Less hardy species germinate
best at about 59°F (15°C); tender
species at 70°F (21°C) and above.
Some germ inate more readily with
gentle bottom heat.
vVhen the first pair of true leaves
appears, transplant the seedlings into
individual pots (see p.152), then
immerse them in water as before under
glass, protected from cold if necessary,
for another year. Transfer the young
plants to their permanent positions o nce
the water has wanned up in spring.

170

HYBRIDIZING WATER GARDEN PLANTS
Species of waterlil ies and water irises
may produce some pleasing seedlings if
hybridized (see also p.21). To keep seeds
pure, transfer pol len from a two or three-
day-old bloom to the liquid in the center
of a waterlily bloom that is on the point
of opening. Protect the pollinated flower
from insects by enclosing it in muslin.
C UTTINGS
Most submerged aquatics do 1101 develop
woody stems, so all cunings are of soft
growth, best taken in spring or sum1ner.
Fast-growing submerged plants, for
example Lagarosiphon and Potamogeton
crispus, should be regularly replaced by
young stock raised from cunings.
Cunings are usually softwood stem-
tip cuuings, prepared in a sim ilar way
10 other perennials (see />p.154-5). Take
cullings material by pinch ing or culling
off healthy, )'Oung shoots. Re,nove the
lower leaves from cuuings o f marginal
plants. Trim rosettes as for Cypen,s (see
below). Cuuings of submerged plants
PREPARING ROSETTE CUTTINGS
Sdecr 11 '""'· f ully mmurc leaf (here of C)'perus
involucralus) and Cul the stem 2in (5cm) below
the rosette. 1-lolct the rose~ttc in one hand and rl'im
11,c IOJ'S of 1hc bmc1s (sec insc1) wirh sharp
scissors. Pot die cuuing.
WINTE R BUDS (TU RIONS)
Adve,uiiious
lshoor
' 2
Winter bud
)
' facing page). Cover the
al end of root
Ar rlie end of the growing se11son, dcwd,
tlu: winter buds from rhe parent plant (here
frogbil, Hydrocharis morsus-ranae). Cover
wirh their own dtpth of soif mix in a poi,
11nd 1,eep rhc pol covered with 6in (15cm) of
warer. Keep cool, but frost·free, over winter.
can be tied into bunches of six and
either polled or thrown into muddy
wildlife ponds 10 root. Root cuuings of
other plants singly, for example of water
mint (1\1e11 tlta aquatica) and water forget-
me-nots (Myosoiis scorpioides). Insert
1he cunings into pots or trays in soil,
then submerge them in shallow water
in a warm, shaded place. Cuuings of
marginals will root in jars of water (see
p.156). You ma)• be able 10 plant out
rooted cuttings after 2-3 weeks.
R OOT- BUD CUTTINGS
When )'OU lift rhizomatous or tuberous
plants from the water, or buy them bare-
root, you may see small, rounded
swellings with emerging shoots on the
roots; these root buds, also called "eyes,"
may be used for propagation. With
tube rous waterlilies and plants such as
Acorus, pare out just the root bud with a
sharp knife (see below). With rhiz01n es,
such as Nupltar, take a 3-4in (8-lOcn1)
section as well as the growing point.
Pot the buds in pots or seed trays.
Keep submerged under glass as for seeds
TA KING ROOT-B UD CUTT INGS
Cut out the swollen root bud witl1 irs growing
1 point from rhe. romstocll. It may be ne.cessa,y
ro cw rhrough rite ncighboriug le,if stallls ro
preserve rJ,c bud. Use II sharp J111ifc;f1111gal
hifcc,ions are less IHld)' w enter clean cws.
PROPAGATING FROM BULBILS
111 spring, when dividi,ig ma'8hwls (here a flowering
1rnsh, Buwmus umbellaius), c111~f11lly pry "ff bulbils
from rhc rhizomes. Use your rl1umbnail cmd
(see inset)
ral,e care 1101 ro snap off rlie buJbil tips, which are sof1.
WATER GARDEN PLANTS
(see faci ng page), potting on as necessar)'
and raising the water level as the shoots
grow (keeping the tips at the surface).
Keep cool bu l frost-free over winter;
transplant as growth begins in spring.
NEW PLANTS FROM WINTER BUDS
So,ne aquatics, such as Hydrocharis and
Houonia, produce nodulelike root buds,
called winter buds or turions. As the
parent becomes dormant in early winter,
these naturall)' noa1 free and sink
10 the bono,n where they sta)' until
spring. Then, the winter buds rise 10 the
surface and develop into new plants. To
facilitate this process, detach the winter
buds and pot 1he1n (see below left). In
spring, when the emerging buds noat 10
the surface, gather them and pol into
containers in soil or aquatic soi l mix.
B ULBILS
Certain rhizomatous plants, such as
Butomus umbellatus, fonn bulbils on the
rhizomes, wh ich are simi lar in function
10 root buds. Bu lbils may be detached
and poued (see below) 10 grow on.
Bud sus securely
in soil mix
Fifi a ·H11 (10cm) baslltl wirh <u11uuic soil
2 mix or sifted lOpsoil. Press in die bud (see
insc,) so rhar 11,e growing tip is just visible.
Top-dress wid1 com·sr gri1 u, lwltl jf in f)lace.
Immerse so the grit is jus1 below rhe wmer.
1i·eat bulbils as
aquatic seeds (sec
bulbils with their own
depth of soil 111L, in a
small pol. Put tJ1<
1,,1,eled poi i11 a bowl,
wirh enough wmcr w
cover rite soil mix.
Plac, in II brigJ,r place
a, abo111 59'F (15'C).
The bulbiJs should roor
i i11 1-3 wcchs.
171
PERENNIALS
BROMELIADS
T hese evergreen perennials may be
terrestrial, saxicolous (cling Lo
rocks), or epiph)•Lic (cling to trees) and
originate mainly from tropical regions of
the Americas. Habitats range fron1 desert
10 rainforest. Many are rosene- or urn-
shapcd, with cen tral "vases" that trap
rainwater. Some epiphylic Tilla11dsia
(known as airplants) lack vases and
obtain water from the air via minute,
spongelike, silvery scales covering the
foliage. A few (xerophytic) species are
cactuslike, thriving in arid, dry deserts.
The more popular bromeliads, such
as Billbergia, Neoregelia, and Tillandsia,
arc neat, decorative plants that in cold
climates make auractive greenhouse,
conservato ry, or indoor plants. In warm
regions, they may be grown outdoors
and are used for landscaping in tropical
countries. No bromeliads are frost-hardy
although a few, for exam ple Dychia,
Hechtia, and Puya, are nearly so.
Propagation is usually by division of
offsets - the fastest and easiest method
DIVISION OF TERRESTRIAL BROMELIADS
1
t.if1 a plant will, mawre rooted offsets (J,erc
Cryptanthus prae1ex1us). o,· lm/1ck ii 0 111 of
its P"t. \Vear gloves, if necessary. Gently p•)'
apan 1/,e offsc1s; discard the old woody center:
DIVISION OF EPIPHYTIC BROMELIADS
1\lattm· c>JJ.~ir Alloh' immcuure
off~e" w tlr\'clOJ>
M/1st e,>iphylic bmmdiculs pmd11cc offseis
1 ,11 rhc base of the plant (here Ncorcgclia
carolinac). Select mat,,rc olfsc1s tlwt have
1/cgun to form roots Jo, pm1mgatio11.
172
and for most people the o nly practical
one, since seeds are of short viability
and rarely available unless set by your
own plants. Bromeliads need lime-free
soil and water. If tap water is alkali ne, use
clean rainwater or cooled, boiled water
for both mist-spraying and watering. If
alkali ne water is used for spraying, the
calci um deposits will mark the leaves.
DIVISION
The natural cycle of a bromeliad is 10
reach maturil)', Oowcr o nce, and then
die. Offsets form around the base of
mature plants, and after Oowering the
paren t persists for a year or so, while
the offsets draw nourishment from it.
In this wa)', a large clump builds up
from several generations of offsets.
In cu ltivation , growers often detach
offsets far 100 early, in o rder to neaten a
plant. These small , immature offsets are
very slow to root and require intensive
ca re. Removal is often difficult when
Pl(llll Olll
2 or pm rootctl
offscrs singly.
lmmmw·c ojfscls
with only mm
initit,ls (see inset)
may form i11 leaf
axils: treat the
bases of rhcse
ojf1ets with honnonc
rooting compound cmd
insert in l,romelic,d sectl
mb: to roor.
Tc,1:c can.· ro
:..__ pn:licn•c· m1y roots
, die offscr,Jin11 geml)~
Remo\'Can offset, curring straigl11 across
2 rhc base of irs srem. Dusr rhc curs with
f11ngicitle. \Vi,~ 1/,e offset onto a suitable mounr
/0 root or /JOI as Jo,· a 1<rresr1ial (see above).
they appear between leaves, as with
some Tillcmdsic, and C1ypta11r.l1us. Treat
im mature offsets like unrooted cuuings
(see below), growing them on in high
humidity at a constant 70°F (21°C).
It is far better 10 leave offsets
attached 10 the slowly deteriorating
paren t until they reach two-thirds of
their full size, by which time they will
have established an independent root
S)'Stem. This is especially irue for Vriesea
splendens and its close relatives, which
produce just one offset in the center of
the vase; the o nl)' way to detach it for
propagation is to peel off the leaves that
form the vase, destroying the parent.
The best time Lo divide offsets is soon
after g rowth starts in spring. Knock the
cl ump out of i1s pol and divide it (see
below), discarding the remains of the
parent and polling the offsets singly.
A Oowering-sized plant can often be
had with in a year. Use much the same
technique with airplants and o ther
epiphytes mounted on cork bark or
Lrnvrs 11111st be obO\'t'
,mjnCf of soil mix
For rooted offse1s. /Jl'epare a /Wt
3 wid1 o suiwblc soil mix. such as
eqlf(rl ,xrns of soil•l>ased mix. com-se
bark, mul pumice gl'<mulcs. lnsen
W<H£'r in. wul label.
OFFSETS IN LEAF AXILS
Tlie offseis of some /Jromeliads (J,e,-.
Tillandsia cyanca) form in 1hc leaf axils.
Srrip off the 0111er leaves ro e..<1>ose the base
of a mcuun: offset, 1Jrcn gently pulJ it away.
 BROMELIAOS

GATHERING SEEDS FROM BRO MELI ADS
BERRIES Lc11se
1l1r bcrrics (here
of an Aechrnca
/1ylJ1id) 011 rite plmu
wuil they start lO
fall 11murt1lly, so 1hr
s,ccls cu-c fully ripe.
Pul1, the bi'rrirs,
rcmow~ rhc seeds.
anti wnsh chem in
wann water wirh
a liHfr dC!('l)lCIII
11dclcd ,o clc1111 off
rhc stich_\ coming.
driftwood, whe re offsets are much 1nore
accessible. Leave 1he1n in place until
they are two-th irds of the parent's size.
They are ready for division when they
will come away easil)' without pulling.
G ROWING ON ROOTED OFFSETS
Rooted offsets from terrestrial species
should be poned, as may a number of
epiphytes such as Aechmea, Billbergia,
and Neoregelia if il suits the grower.
A very free-draining soil mix is vital
10 avoid rot. Try equal parts of peat
and coarse sand with a little added
hon icu hural charcoal, or equal pans
of peat, perlite, and coarse sand.
Humidi ty is also essen tial: keep
the vases of offsets filled wi th water,
especially during summer, but take care
not 10 overwater the soil mix. Epiph)'UC
offsets can also be wired onto driftwood,
cork bark, or tree-fern stein. vVedge
airplant offsets in crevices on branches.
F LUFFY SEEDIIEAD
The ,,a,,e,y W/>SUle
opens to reveal a
fluffy seetlhead
(11e,·e of Tillandsia
1ec10rum). Seeds
arc ji,lly iipcnccl
wl1en tlte plumes
lif1 effortlessly from
rhe s,alk. ready ,o
float on the air: Sow
the seeds wirlt 1/ic
plumes auaclted
(see below).
while eating the fruits). Tillandsia seed
capsu les take from six months to a year
10 mature; the plumed seeds are ready
for gathering within a £ew days of the
capsules opening (see above rig/11).
Berries should be left on the plant until
fully mature (see above left), then the
seeds carefully separated from the flesh
and any jelly coating washed off before
sowing, since it may inhibit germination.
S OWING SEEDS
Bromeliad seeds should be sown fresh
because they are viable for only a month
or two - or a few weeks for plumed
seeds. Professional growers sow onto
SOWING SEEDS OF EPI PHYT !C BRO MEL!ADS
orchid seedling mix, which has
a very small particle size. Many free-
draining, fine, sterilized seed soi l mixes
arc also suitable, as are the mixtures
recommended for offsets (see above).
Scalier seeds thin!)' over the surface
of a prepared tray of mix; leave seeds
from berries on the surface, but anchor
plumed or winged seeds with a very fine
layer of coarse grit. Cover with a sheet
of glass 10 retain humidit)' and sheets
of styrofoain lo retain warmth and give
shade. Minimum temperatures for
germination are 66-81 °F ( l9-27°C).
Gardeners may also sow epiph)'liC
seeds onto bundles of conifer twigs,
which are slight I)' acidic (see below),
or push them into crevices in fir cones.
Bromeliad seedlings grow and form
roolS very slowly; in many cpiphy1es the
original roots disappear some time later.
Allow al least five months between
sowing and moving on the seedlings.
Transplant 10 about l in (2.5cm) apan
and grow on close together in trays
(except for airplants). Th is creates a
more favorable growing environment
than polling small plantlets individually.
Seedlings may be transplanted several
times before pouing.
When the)' are large enough 10
handle, pot seedlings sing!)', Epi phytic
seedlings may also (continued on p.174)

SEEDS
Raising bromeliads from seeds is
rewarding for the gardener and is used
for mass production and hybridization
al nurseries. However, many bromeliads
are self-sterile; unless two or more Tolte some twigs from a couifc,: such as o Pull a1x1rr freshly collec1ed. fluffy seedl1eads
plants of 1he same species flower 1cypress or juniper. ancl make into (' bundle 2 (11crr of a Tillandsia) 1111d sc<11rer rite plumes
simultaneously, it is rare for viable with a little moist sphagnum moss. Tic rhe 1·,enly 0''" 1/ie l,undle. Tliey slwuld adliere to
seeds 10 be set in a small collection. bundle wirh twine. raffia. 01 wirt. Ilic moss or cn11 br tied in with more mlfla.
Many Tillandsia. such as T. burzii, are
self-fertile so are most li kely 10 set seeds. Use a mist--
Bromeliad flowers appear at various
times fro,n the vases of mature plants.
3 S1'rt1ycr to ligluly
water the bundle.
SOWING IN A CONTAINER

With some plants, such as Guzmania Label rite bundle

sanguinea, Neoregelia carolhwe 'Tricolor', and suspend ir lig/uly
and Tillandsia ionanrha, the top leaves in a slwded, warm
of the rosene turn red when the plant is place wirlt 100 per•
about to flower. In the wild, flowers are CCIII humidity, such as
pollinated by hu,n mingbirds, bats, and l, closed t<1sc or misr-
insects so are best hand-poll inated in pmpaga, ion beuch.
cultivation lo encourage seeds 10 set. Keep rite bundle moist
Seeds may be contained in papery b) mist-spraying it Prepare a seed Iray or pot with free-draining
capsules that split 10 disperse plumed ,~gularly. or daily mix, such as equal parts pear, pcrlire. and
or winged seeds on the wind. Others are submc,gu1g ii in dean coarse sand. Spread the phoned seeds over
carried in berries and have a jellylike rain ware,: rite surface. Cover will1 a ll1i11 layer of grit IO
covering (this makes the seeds sLick 10 Jwep ,he seeds in co11ract wirh 1J1e mix.
tree bark when birds wipe their beaks

173
PERENNIALS

(continued from /J.173) be transferred to
pieces of tree-fern stern or cork bark.
Use a very free-draining, lime-free
potting mix for all seedlings. A fine
grade of orchid mix , equal parts of peat
and coarse sand, or equal parts of peat,
perlite, and coarse sand is best for the
first potting. Coarser orchid ,nixes
combined with a little coarse sand can
be used for potting on larger plants. Use
a standard or even taller pot to provide
excellent drainage. At al l stages, it is
vital plants are not potted 100 deeply;
the lower leaves should be totally clear
of the mix. It usually takes three yea rs
o r more for new plants to nower.
PROPAGATING PI NEA PPLES FROM CUTT INGS
Sclccr hta/Jhy slips 0 1 s11cl1Cl's,
either bel11w Jhe f111it (sec ler,) or
111 the base of the s1e111. Detach any
of these wirh" shar1>lmife cmd
dip the cw s,ufcrccs in c1 fungicide.
Allow to dt)' fo r II few days. Trim
off the Joh•cr leaves anrl insert the
c1111i11gs in />OJS of sm,dy compost
(see below) to rom a1 70°1' (21°C).
POJ them 011 i1110 6 i11 (I 5cm) pois
when they have molccl.

OTHER METHODS
The long, rootless strands of Spanish
moss (Tillandsia usneoides) can be
propagated by perhaps the easiest of
all cuttings: simply snip about 12in
(30cm) fro,n the end of an established
clum p, hang it up in the warm, hu1nid
conditions in which the plant thrives
naturally, and allow to grow on . PROPAGATING PIN EAPPLES FROM CROWN SHOOTS
Ananas, including edible pineapple
and miniature decorative cultivars such
as A. comosus 'Variegatus', produce
fruits after the nowers on the stem
that emerges fro1n the center of the
mature vase. At the top of each
mature fruit is a tuft of fol iage that
may be sliced off and rooted (see right).
(Fruits retailed in stores may have had
the g rowing tip removed to prevent
them from being propagated.)
Pineapples can also be increased
from shoots that develop in leaf axils,
called suckers when they appear low
down on the main stem and slips when
they arise on the fruit stein (see top Use a sl,arp lmife to scoop 0111 r/1e crown Insert the cuuing inro a ,,or of rooting
right). They do not develop if left on the
parent but can be detached and rooted
1 shoot of a ripe pineapple with abo111 ½i11
( Jcm) of Jhe _(11,ir mwched. Dip tlie woum/ in
2 medium <md ,uep at a minimum
iempernturc of 70°F (2 J°C). The c11ui11g should
for new plants. fungicide and allow to d,y for several days. root and be ready ro pot 011 wicl1i11 a few weel,s.

A-Z OF BROMELIAOS
ABROMEJTIEI.J.A Terrestrial; divide
offsets in spring or summer!,
Sow winged seeds in spring at
s1°F ( 21°c ) 111.
AECH.\ffA Epiphyte: divide
offsets in early summer 1-Sow
seeds from berries as soon as
ripe at 70°F (21 °C) 111-
ANANAS PINE,\PPLE Terrestrial;
root slips o r suckers o r crown
shoots (see above) at any time I,
BIU.BERCJA Epiphytc; divide
offsets in summer I, Sow seeds
from berries as soon as ripe a1
s1°F c21•c J 1u.
BROM EUA Terrestrial; divide in
late spring or early summer I-
Sow seeds as for 8illbergia IU,
CANISTRUM As for Billbergia.
CATOPSIS Epiphyte; divide offsets
in late spring; boLtom heat aids
rooting 1- Sow plumed seeds as
soon as ripe at 8l°F (27°C) IU-
CRl'PTANlliUS EARTH STAR, STARFISH
PL\NT Terrestrial; detach offsets
rrom leaf axils in early summer I,
Sow seeds as for Billbergia 111-
x CRYPTBERCJA Terrestrial; divide
offsets in spring 1-
DrCKJA Terrestrial. xerophyte;
divide in late spring or early
summer I- Sow winged seeds in
early spring at 8!°F (27°C) IU.
FASCICUL\RIA Terrestrial,
epiphyte, xerophyte: divide
offsets in spring or summer I,
Sow seeds from berries in winter
or spring at 8l°F ( 27°C) 111,
Guz,,uNu Epiphytc; divide
offsets in midspring j. Sow
plumed seeds at 8l°F (27°C) in
midspring 111-
HECHTIA Terrestrial, xerophyte;
divide offsets in spring I- Sow
winged seeds as soon as ripe a,
70-75°F (21-24°C) lU-
NEORECELIA(syn. Arege/ia)
Terrestrial , epiphytc: divide
offsets in spring or summer I-
Sow seeds from berries as soon
as ripe at 8 1°F (27°C) 111-
N IDULARJUM 81Ro's NEST
BROMELIAD Epiphyte; as for
Ncoregelia.
0RTHOPHITtJM Saxicolous; divide
offsets in spring 1- Sow seeds as
for Billbergia 111-
P1rCA IR..~1.,\ Terreslrial: divide
offsets in late spring or early
summer I- Sow winged seeds in
spring a, 66-75°F (19-24°C) 111-
PUYA Terrestrial; sow winged
seeds as soon as ripe at 66-75°F
(l 9-24°C) 111,
Q UESNELIA Terrestrial, epiphyte;
as for Neoregelia.
TJUANDSIA AIR PLANT Epiphyte;
divide offsets in spring 1- Seeds
as for Billbergia 11- Take cuttings
of T. usneoides at any time I,
VRJESIA Epiphytc; divide offsets
in spring I- Sow seeds as for
PiJCainiia Ill,
\VJTTROCKIA Terrestrial, epiphyte;
offsets in spring or summer I-
Sow seeds as for Pitcairnia Ill,

174

ORNAMENTAL GRASSES
rass, in 1he form or a closely mown
G lawn, has long been valued for i1s
durability but has often been regarded
as mere ly a foil fo r more interesting
planting. Yet the grass fam ily includes
an extraordinary diversity of ornamental
plants. Some species are valued for thei r
architectural form , such as Misca11thus
si11e11sis; others for their fo liage color,
including glaucous blue rescue (Festuca
gl<mca); for variegation, such as green-
and-wh i1e striped gardener's ganers
(PJialaris aru11di11acea 'Piela'); for
attractive stems, for example the Chilean
bamboo (CJ1us,1uea culeou); or for their
flowerheads (inflorescences), such as the
feathery heads or Conade,ia selloa11a.
True grasses belong to the Poaceae
family and almost always have hollow,
rounded stems, with solid nodes at
regular intervals. This is most obvious
in woody-stemmed bam boos (subfamily
Bambusoideae). Rushes and sedges look
similar but are not true grasses; they
belong to other botan ical families.
Flowers arc borne in spikes, pan icles,
or racemes. Many grasses flower when
two years old or so, but bamboos
remain vegetative for decades. The)' will
eventually begin to flower: at first. on ly
a few canes will have in florescences,
but these will increase in number quite
considerably in subsequen t years. Once
flowering begins, a bamboo will decline
in vigor and then often die.
P ROPAGATING PERENNIAL GRASSES
Perennial grasses are common plants and,
in some cases, can be invasive weeds, so
it is often assu1ned that they are eaS)' to
propagate. They can be, provided that a
few basic principles are followed. There
are two main methods of increase: by
division or from seeds.
Division 1n us1 be used to increase a II
bamboos, which rarely flower; variega1ed
grasses, which lose their variegation if
DIVISION OF RHIZOM ATO US BAMBOOS
ln spring, loosen the soiJ around a clumr> of
1lum,boo 10 expose rhe rhizomes. will, their 2
new buds. the edge of the dump. Sever' these
tll
from die parent plant. usit1g 1>nme,·s.
DIVIDING SMALL CLUMPS
(
' -a,,,;
raised fro1n seeds; and grasses such as
/vliscanLl1t1s that fail to set seeds in colder
climates. Division is also a useful means
of rejuvenati ng mature grasses that are
congested and bare at the center.
DIVISION
Division of grasses can be a simple
process and should succeed, provided
that it is carried out at the correct time
of the year. Grasses produce new growth
buds, some of which are quite large, in
summer; these lie dormant until the
following spring. In general, it is best
to divide grasses just as the buds start
in to growth, usually in midspring. This
is especially important for bamboos; if
divided at other times of the year, the
success rate is generally poor because of
the risk or rot or drought. Other grasses,
if grown on light soils or in warm
climates, may be divided in autumn.
DIVISION OF SMALL GRASSES
For small, clump-forming grasses, cut
back the foliage for easier handling, then
Cu, die rliitomcs into pieces, each wirh at
least one bud. Pour some fungicidal powder
into a small clish and dip rl1e cur surfaces into it
(sec inset).
ORNAMENTAL GRASSES
If necesscuy. cut down rhe
foliage by a half ro rliree-
quartcrs 10 abour 6-8in
(J5-20cm) so 1he grass is
easier ro handle. Lifr rite
clump with c~Jorli and divide
ir into 2-4 fJieces 1 either by
Jumd or using two lumd
forl1s , Replant rite dil'isio11s
~~--..'.:either in rhe garden or
in a nurse,y bed or
pm singly in sandy soil mix,
Label the di\'iSions and
water well.
lift the clump. Shake off loose soil from
the roots, or wash the roots clean, to
make it easier to separate them. Divide
the clump into good-sized sections, as
shown above. Trim any overlong or
da1naged roots from each division.
If the clump is tightly packed or
tough, as with Misca11thus, use a sharp
knife or a spade to cut through the roots.
This will inflict less damage to the rootS
than pulling the rootstock apart.
DIVISION OF BAMBOOS
Bamboo roots are sensitive to drought, so
choose a cool, overcast day for division
to prevent drying out. It is also wise
to wear heavy gloves; bamboo leaves
contain silica and are very sharp.
Some bamboos have long, thin
rhizomes with shoots all along their
length; these spread out to form a loose
clump that can be invasive. Divide th is
type as shown below, taking strong, new
rhizomes from the edge of the clump.
Other bamboos have short, thick
rhizomes, with shoots at the tips, that
form a tight clump. (Co111i1111ed 011 p.176.)
3 Pol each piece indi\'idually into" free-
draining soil mix. wirh rhc jusr
rl1izome
below tl1e s11,face of rite mix and rite shoots
exposed. Firm in, label, and wace,· well.
175
PERENNIALS

DIVIDING LARGE GRASS CLUMPS

PROPAGATION
FROM SINGLE BUDS
~

Looi, for a11 offset dump (lirrc
1 of Arunclo donax) of su-oi,g
shoots and 11lwnp bucls. Dig c1
,rend,. al kas1 <1 spade bladrS
dctp, <1r<mnd it to t'.XJX>Sr rhr wors.
Sc,.ap awny ll1c s.oil to rc,,eal
2 the rliizames numing between
t11e offscr lO die main dump. l)se
loppers. cm tlX, or a mn11ocli to
sever 1/11·111, 1l,r11 lif1 1l,e off,c1.
Oi\•idc rhe offset into pif'ccs.
3 rad, ll'i1/1 a1 least 3-4 buds.
Trim die rhiz.om£·s u, fo,m 11cm
root balls. Replmu at the same
drpt/1 (IS before. ll'alCI' i11, mul llll,cl.
NONVIABLE Vl,IBLE
Small pieces of ,~1izome lluu arc
brohen off du ring division may
In:- grown on, provided that c<1d1
has a /teali/ty growth bud (s,•e
right). Discm'd any with weak
buds (ler1). Grow 011 i11 pots i11
a frost-free place or i11 a nurseiy
bed for" year before plmuing.

(Co111i11uedfro111 p.175.) If possible, lift
the entire clump. Using pruners or a
large knife , divide the rhizomes in10
pieces, each with several growl h buds.
Take care 1101 10 damage any fibrous
roots. Cut the stems down 10 12in (30cm)
to reduce water loss. With a large,
tough clump of bamboo, il ma)' be more
practica l lO take off an offset clump at
the edge of the plant (see below).
D IVIDING LARGE GRASS CLUMPS
Large clumps of tall grass can be divided
using two back-to-back forks, as for
other fibrous-rooted perennials (see
p. J 48) or, if the rootstock is tough , with
loppers, a mauock, or an ax. Established
clu,nps of bamboos and other grasses
tha1 arc too large lO lift usually have
offset clumps that can be separa1ed, as
shown above.
Choose an offset clump and cul the
s1ems down lO 2ft (60cm) for easier
handling. When digging out the offset
clump and dividing it, be carefu l not to
damage any of the growth buds at the
base of the stems; they are sometimes
briule and easily snapped off. Discard
any woody sections, and trim damaged
roots or rhizomes.
Any single-budded pieces (see above
rig/11) that become detached fr01n the
clump ma)' be grown on bu1 need more
care and time lo establish than usual.
GROWING ON DIVISIONS
Grass divisions may be replanted in the
garden, lined ou1 in a nursery bed, or
poued, depending on their size and local
conditions. If planting out, choose a
sunny site with free-draining, moisture-
retentive soil; very fertile soil encourages
foliage at the expense of nowering.
Small or tender divisions are easier
lo manage if polled; use a free-draining
soil mix (see p.34). Keep the potted
divisions cool and moist and out of sun
and drying winds until established. A
closed cold frame is ideal; when signs
of new growth appear, open the frame.
Most bamboos and grasses wi ll be ready
for plan ting out af1er a year.
SOWING SEEDS
If grasses are allowed to seed in the
garden, the resulting seedlings tend lO
crowd out established plants, and it is
almost impossible 10 identify seedling
grasses or distingu ish desirable kinds
from weeds. Gather well-developed,
healthy inOorescences just before their
seedheads are ful ly ripened lo ex1ract
seeds for sowing (see below).
Grasses may be sown directly into
outdoor beds, but the seedlings must be
rigorously thinned to give each room to
develop. ll is better to plant container-
grown seedlings (see p.152). Some grass
seeds are large so can be space-sown.
Keep them at the required temperature
(see A-Z of Ornamental Grasses, faci 11g
page). Most grass seeds germinate in a
GATHERING GRASS SEEDS
•
' i11 cell pfld1s, in
GATHERING C111 s1e111s ( here of
Miscan1hus) once the inflorescences
have fhiffed "/I fully (above right).
If cur 100 soon (abo,·e lef1), 1/te
i11floresce11ce will con win no seeds.
week if sown fresh. Transplant seed lings,
one lO a pol or cell, as soon as they are
large enough lo handle. Transfer pots of
established seedlings to a frost-free place
lO grow on. Plan t out in midspri ng.
SOWING LAWNS
Lawns are popu lar in cool-temperate
regions, bu1 less so in areas of low
summer rainfall, because 1hcy require
regular irrigation. Lawn seed mixtures
vary, depending on region and climate
and what quality of lawn is required.
Modern breeding has produced
improved se lections of tough, perennial
ryegrass that tolerate close mowing and
produce a hard-wearing, fine turf, ideal
for family gardens. Fine fescues, bents,
and bluegrasses are more suitable for
quality lawns where appearance is
paramount. If extending a lawn under
trees, choose a mixture that includes
shade-toleran t species and cul1ivars.
In areas with dry su1nmcrs, clover
is sometimes added to the seed mixture
because it remains green, while in hot
regions, drought-tolera111 grasses such as
I
EXTRACTING Keep the grass stems in a
cool, dry pt"ce for a Jew days IO allow 1hc
seeds 10 fi11isl1 ripc11i11g. Soip off the seeds
from each spil1e; 1l,ey
\, should come mvoy
, c<1sily. Sow at once or
! \ , \ store! uiuil spring.
, ' Sow 3-5 seeds to
\ a Jin (8c,11) pol,
or individually
fn:e-clrnining,
soilless seed
mix.

176
 ORNAMENTAL GRASSES

Cy11odo11 daciylon, C. tra11svaale11sis, and SOWING A LAWN

Digiwria didactyla are used, although
they ma)' turn brown in winter. SOW ING WITH A SPREA DER
A lawn may be in use for decades,
so if creating a new one prepare the si te
thorough!)'· Start well in advance of early
autumn o r spring sowing. First remove
any roots, large stones, and weeds, then
rototill or dig over and level the area,
incorporati ng well-roued o rganic matter
to a depth of l Oin (25cm). Spot-trea t
any perennial weeds that appear in the
next few months. In heavy, clay soils, it
may be necessar)' to improve drainage
with gravel o r drainage pipes. In dr)'
areas, install irrigation. For large cu-ec~s. a spreader h 11seful. Sow
Just before sowing, firm the soil Maril ow ll1e site into sections of equal size.
with a roller or by treading. Rake to
remove small stones and lumps and 10
1
Measure out enough seeds for one section.
half the seeds one way tmcl hC1lf at right
cmgles to this. For" clefi11ecl edge. lay plllsti<
Staller half 11,e seecls across and l1alf clown 1/ic sheeting a11cl puslr tire spreculcrjust aver it.
create a fine tilth. Sow in early autumn llrett, sowing by hand or from a pot (see inscl).
or spring, after rainfall or irrigation.
For large areas, it is convenient to
use a spreader, but small lawns may be
sown by hand . For even sowing, mark
out the area into equally sized sections
(see right). Vveigh out a vo lume of
seeds for one section, and place in a
measuring contai ner. You can then
measure, rather than weigh out,
subsequent amounts of seeds. Mixing
the seeds with an equal amount of sand
and scauering them fro1n a plastic pot is
quick, easy, and ensures even coverage.
If the area is small, cover to protect
it from birds and keep moist. Remove
the cover as soon as germ ination occurs. UgJufy rnhc over the surface of 1he .:,Own
In warm, moist conditions, seedling
grass should be growing well by late
2
area to cover rhr sel'ds. If needed, protect 3 Gnmhration slwuld occur in 7-14 days.
Once die grc1ss 1s abour 2i11 (5cm) tall, use
the trrea from birds with 11lt1s1ic sheeting or c~ l1ghrweig/u m(Jh'er with ,e,y slwrp blades to
autumn or early sum mer. n<•rring. ln dry weather: wcrtcr tlie site regularly. cur ii to <1 licig/11 of 1i11 (2.5cm).

A-Z OF PERENN fAL ORNAMENTAL GRASSES

Sow seeds or following genera
(nonvariega,ed forms only) al a
minimum temperature of 50°F
(10°C) 1, Divide in spring 1.
AGR05Tl5
Al.OPEC! RL'S FOXTAIL (;R,\SS
CAI.AMAGROSTrS R1,tD GRASS
0,1cn-us
DESCHAMPSft\ I IAIR GRASS
CLl'MUS \VILD R\'I·
fESTVCA fES(Lt
GtYC£RI,\ u.
Ho1.cvs
Lenrus (syn. f/ymus)
MEUCA M CLICK
1\.-111 ,u.\l M . effusum 'Aureum·
co1ncs lruc from seeds.
MOUNlA
PEN.\IISE'ftlM FOU1':TAIN GR.t\SS
PHAI.AR/S
PHRAGMITES GIANT RCED
(bamboo) Pol
Pl-lrlLOStAC/ll'S
divisions with at least two
grow1h buds: keep in a closed
frame umil new shoots appear.
Pot on when pots fil1 wilh roots;
plant out af1er two years.
POA M CADO\\' GR,\SS, SPEAR GRASS
Peg down ripe nowcrhcacls of
P. alpitra var. l'i\1ipa,.,~ lo obtain
roo1ed plantlelS (seep. 150) U.
5ASA (bamboo)
SESLERIA
Sow seeds of following genera
( nonvadegated fo r ms only) at a
mini murn te mpe rature of59°F
(15°C) l- Divide in spring 1,
ARU~DINARIJ\ (bamboo)
ARVNDO Divide U, Take singlc-
noded cuuings from new s tems
in spring; place horizontally
on rooting medium in trays,
as for root cuuings (see p.158);
keep moist at 59°F (I 5°C) 10
rootu.
BAMBUSA 8A"800
BourELOU1\
(bamboo) Take
CHIMO/\''OBA.\IBtJSA
rhizome sections (seep. J75).
CWO/\'OCIILOA Dis1inc, male and
female plants: fertilized seeds
from females are viable.
C,rvsQtJEA ( bamboo) Take
rhizome sections (sec p. 175).
CORTADEIUA PAMPAS GRASS,
TUSSOCK GRASS Sow fertile seeds
rrom rcmale plants: less common
self-fertile 1ypes of1cn self-sow.
Divide as for large grasses: cu1
into smaller pieces; grow on in
pOIS 31 60°F ( 15.5°C).
0ANTIIONIA
DENDROCAr.AML'S (bamboo) Sow
seeds a, 6 -+°F os•c) u. Take
sections of stem (culm); place
them horizontally in sphagnum
moss at 70°F (2 I°C) 10 root U-
fRAGRosrrs LOVE GRASS
f,IRG£SIA (bamboo) Take
rhizome sections (see p.175).
H..ftKONECHLOA .\fACRA
H ELICTOTRICHON
NJMAI.A\'ACAI.A'IVS (bamboo)
Sow seeds a, 6-+°F ( 18°C).
JMPERATA
MrSCANTHL'S
OPU)\IENL'S Take stern cuuings
from semiripe, nonOowering
shoots in hue summer (see
,,.154) u.
PLEfOBI.ASTVS(bamboo)
PS£l'DOSASA ( bamboo)
SACCHARL'M (syn. Eria11tl111s) Sow
a, 70°F (21°C). Take single-node
stem cuttings in s pring as for
Anmclo; root al 64°F (18°C) U-
SEMIARUNDJNARU (bamboo) Take
rhizome sections (see p. J75).
SmBATAEA (bamboo) Take
rhizome sec1ions (see p.175).
SoRGHASTRUM
STE.NOT,WHRUM Remove rooted
plantlclS (see p.150) produced
on shoots from underground
stems in autumn U.
STIPA (syn. Ad111athen1111) SPEAR,
FEATHER, OR Nl' EDLE GRASS
{syn. Sincrnuulinaria)
YUSHANIA
(bamboo)
For am11wl grasses. see Annuals
and Biennials (1111.220-29).

177
PERENN IALS
ORCHIDS
A ll orchids belong to the huge family
Orchidaceac, with some 835 genera,
25,000 species, and many thousands of
hybrids. Many, with Oowers of fabulous
shape and spectacular color, are among
the finest of cu ltivated ornamental
plan ts. During their evolution, orchids
adopted different modes of growth and
adapted to their habitats by becoming
epiphytic or terrestrial. These physical
adaptations are significant both in terms
of their cultural needs and in the
methods used for propagation.
E PIPHYTIC ORCHIDS
Most cultivated orchids are epiphytes and
a few are lithophytes, that is, occurri ng
on or among rocks. Epiphytic orchids
grow on trees, but they are not parasitic.
They use aerial roots to absorb moisture
from the air and take n u trients from
decayed leaf litter that collects in branch
crotches and on the trunk. The aerial
roots also act as anchorage, often
ad hering 10 the bark for pan of thei r
length before hanging freely in midai r.
Epiphytes d isplay one of two growth
habits: sy,npodial or monopodial.
In S)•mpodial o rchids, the terminal
growth ends in a Oower spike, or
inOorescence. Increase in the plant's size
arises from lateral buds, known as "eyes,"
on pseudobulbs, which are found at the
base of previous growths. Orchids with
a monopodial growth pattern have
extended stems or rhizomes, and all
COMMERC IAL METHODS OF RAISI NG ORCHIDS
Meristem cullUre permits Lhe commercial
production from one orchid of thousands of
identical offspring by culturing growth cells,
taken from a dormam bud, in a laboratory
(se~ below and p.15).
Raising orchids from seeds also involves
skilled laboratory work. In the wild, the tiny
seeds rely on sugars that are produced by
symbiotic microfungi 10 provide 1hem
with energy to gem1lnate. In cultivation,
O RCHID SEED 011e orchid COIi produce a
million ri11y seeds. Tl,ey are veiy vulnerable
to airborne bacteria a11d so must be gathered
and sown in completely srerile conditions.
178
new growth arises from the growing tip.
Flower spikes occur on the stem at the
base of matu re leaves.
The conditions in their na1ive habitats
enable epiphy1es to survive with their
roots exposed to the elements. Epiphytic
orchids occur in warm, h utnid rainforests
at low altitudes or at sea level, as well
as in cooler, high-altitude rainforests.
This indicates the range of 1cmperatures
needed for cult ivation and propagation .
Cool-growing orchids need minimum
temperatu res of 50- 55°F (10-13°C): 1he
intermediate-growing orchids, 57-66°F
(14-19°C); and warm-growing orchids,
68-75°F (20-24°C).
For most epiphytes, a 1nix made up
of three parts fine granulated bark 10
one part perlite and one pan charcoal
serves for both pouing and vegetative
propagation (see also pp.33-4).
1he seeds can be germinated on agar-based
media that contain all the necessary
nutrients. Seeds must also be gathered and
germinated under totally sterile conditions
10 avoid their being killed by airborne
bacteria. In Oower, seedlings naturally
vary, and the best are selected for meristcm
cul1ure. his possible for the gardener to
grow orchids from seeds, but it requires
special equipment and some degree or skill.
j have pseudobulbs; a few produce leafy
' removal of single backbulbs or by
M ERISTEM CULTURE Cells from the g.-owch
bud of 011 orchid pseudobulb are cultivated i11
sterile conditions on a special nurrienr gel to
produce large numbers of tiny pla11tlets.
Er1r11vnc ORCllll) S
1\fm1y cultiwHcd 01rl1ids
<1rc uopic<1I cpipliytc.s,
such as this Caulcra
aura111iaca. 111 the wild.
i1 gro,\s 011" r,er tmd
absorbs mois111re Jmm tlie
air. Decaying leaf liw.·r in
die uvc O'Oldrrs trnd "'°"g
''": branches prm idts
11u1rir,us. and ll,e \\(lftn.
humid dinuur ollows rlic
orchid's ,mcJwring roots to
be £XJJOSf:d wiilwut Jwnn.
T ERRESTRIAL ORCHIDS
Terrestrial, o r ground-dwelling, orchids
predominate in cooler cl imates where
epiph)'tic o rchids are not able 10 exist.
There a re also many tropical terrestrials,
for example Habenal'ia. Terrestrial
orch ids are mostl y deciduous and have
one of two principal growth habits.
They arc either rhizomatous or produce
underground tubers, each supporting a
leaf rosette and a central Oowering stem:
The plant is dormant in win ter and
remains so un til spring.
Adopting the dormancy habit , along
with possessing underground storage
organs, confers g reater cold to lerance
than is seen in the epiphytes. Most so-
called hardy orchids are terrestria ls, and,
although some are hardy in many areas,
few can tolerate very d am p winter
conditions and so are more safely grown
in a cold greenhouse or alpine house.
Most te rrestrials require a free-
draining mix, which may contain soil,
g rit, peat, leaf mold, osmunda fiber, or
fine bark .
5 YMPOD1AL O RCHIDS
Sympodial orchids include those, such
as Cartleya, that have pseudobu lbs
(swollen, food- and water-storage
organs), which bear leaves and Oowcrs.
A dormant, leaOess pseud obulb is
known as a backbu lb. Backbulbs can
be used for propagation, since removal
from the rhizome usually activates
dormant eyes. Not all sympodials
growths instead , such as Papliiopedilum.
Propagation of S)'mpodial orchids
with pseudobu lbs is most usually by
division. Backbulbs take a few years to
Oower, while divisions of a large plant
may bloom in the following season,
provided that each division has at least
four pseudobulbs. The basic techn iques
are similar for all sy,npodial epiphyies
wi th pseudobulbs, but variati ons are
made 10 accommodate differences in

DIVIDING PSEUDOB ULBS OF SYMPODIALS
111 spring, an orchid (11crc Cl Cpnbi<lium)
1 with tigJu or more 1,sc11dob11fbs may be
df\'ided i,uo two. Knocl: the 1>la111 ouc of irs
containc,: Shn,ie rhc excess mix from die mots.
Remove ,my leafless l}{1cllbulbs from the
3 divided sccrions. Discard auy rhm m~ old
and sluivded. Pl11111p bacl1b11lbs 11u1y be p,>11«1
separately (sec below) ro grow m,.
structure and habit. With some orch ids,
such as in Odo111ogloss11m , increasing b)'
backbulbs is rarely successful because
they seldom produce enough dormant
eyes. In this case, it is possible to
propagate from a leading pseudobulb
(see p.180). Other sympodials, as in
Dendrobium , form adventitious g rowths -
small plantlets that may be separated
and potted (see p.1 81) .
D IVIDING PSEUDOBULBS OF SYMPOOIALS
A well-grown plant produces o ne or
more new pseudobulbs annually, each
of which will live for several years. Each
new pseudobulb grows from the base of
the previous one, on a tough connecting
rhizome. To nower in its first year,
new growth depends on the young
pseudobulb obtaining nutrients from the
more mature pseudobulbs, even after
forming its own roots and leaves. So, if
plants are 10 nower in the season after
division , each piece must have four or
more plum p, green pseudobulbs. Any
shriveled, brown pseudobulbs are dead
and should be discarded.
Division of 1nost sympodial orchids
follows a similar pattern to that shown
above. Division is carried out in spring,
when the parent plant is being repoued.
Knock the plant out of its container and
remove the oldest, leafless pseudobulbs
Push 1l1e pse11clob11lbs aptll'I slightly in 1he
2 ce,utr and, wil11a sliarp JJnming lmifc, c111
down d1rough the woody rhizome dial joins
rhcm. Pry 1he plant apal'l into two sections.
1ifo1 off any dead roots, using clean, sharp
4 I" wiers. 1i·im badz longer healthy roots, but
be sure to rcrain <H least 6itt (15cm) of livinf;!
root 10 anchor eucl1 plm1l in irs new par.
to leave at least four o n each division .
Separate the pseudobu lbs by placing
a clean, sharp pruning knife between
them and pushing down vertically to
cut through the rhizome.
In most genera, the rhizome
co nnecting the pseudobulbs is so short
that it becomes visible only during this
procedure, but it is essential not to slice
through soft tissue at the base of the
pseudobu lb, which will render it useless.
To avoid this, pus h the pseudobulbs
apart firmly with fingers and thumb
before inserting the knife. Cut off the
PROPAGATING SINGLE BACKBULBS
Fh m ge11dy 10
,rnd1or roots
Pot "I' pl11111p. healthy backbulbs (see inset)
1 si11gly i11 Jin (8cm) pots of orchid mix. Sit
the bacl1b11lb 011 the s11rf1,ce of 1hr mix to avoid
rotting the clonna11t gr'Owlh buds.
ORCHIDS
E,1d1 St"CtiOH
should l1m'C
Cit fo<ISI j()u,
1,se11dol,11lbs
Rcpor each divided section in a container
5 rlu11 is j 11s1 a li11le larger rha11 i1s root ball.
Hold lht' base of 1he psetulob11lbs level 1d1h the
rim of the pot. 1lic11 fill in 1d1h on;hid barlt.
dead roots, but leave some living roots
to anchor each division in its pol. Pot
each d ivision with the pseudobulbs
si tting on the surface of the mix so that
new growth , wh ich should appear
wi thin six weeks, does not rot awar
PROPAGATION FROM SINGLE BACKBULBS
As a pseudobulb ages after nowering, it
eventually drops its leaves but is still
alive and has su lTi cient reserves to /
sustain further growth. Some
orch ids lose all their leaves at
once; (continued 0 11 p.180)
•~""-¥-- New slioot
g,·ow~ fmm bast·
of lulfkbulb
Place the bacl1b11lb i11 a cool. sh,ukd
2 posit ion nnd lzeep nwisr. \Vid1in six wcchs,
d ie buds slwuld swn imo growth, and <ifter 2-3
monrhs rhe badlbulb should haven new shoor.
179
PERENNIALS
DIVIDING A LEADING PSEUDOBULB
ln spring o,· awumn, wlien ir is not in full
1 growth or com1,Iercly dorma111, lwoch rhr
plant (here II Burrageara) 0111 of its co11wi11er:
Carefully tease 0111 tire mix from tire mots
to re"eal rhe leading pseudobulb.
(co111i11ued f rom p.179) others shed one
leaf at a time over two or three years.
\Vhile still auached 10 the main plant ,
iLS role is 10 support new growth and
flowers. But if leafless backbulbs are
separated from the parent plant while
still green and plump, they may be used
for propagation , provided that four
pseudobulbs are left on the parent plant.
Sever single backbulbs from the
parent plant with a clean, sharp pruning
knife, taking care not 10 damage the
softer tissue at iLS base. Where the back-
bulb is covered with basal leaf bracLS,
peel these away until a dormant bud,
or "eye," is visible at the base (see right).
Depending upon the type of orchid,
there may be one or several. Cymbidium
orchids will have several eyes, with the
strongest ones at the base of the back-
bulb and weaker ones higher up.
Remove any dead roots from beneath
the backbulb, but leave about 2in (5cm)
of good rooLS to anchor it in iLS pot.
Pot it (see p.179) in orchid mix and
grow on in a closed case. Keep the case
at a temperature to suit the individual
orchid, according to whether it is cool-,
intermediate-, or warm-growing (see
p.178 and A-Z of Epiphytic Orchids,
pp.181 and 183).
A new green shoot should appear
within six weeks, and, after a further
four weeks or so, new rooLS should
emerge. At this stage, remove the plant
180
Place tl,e root ball 011 irs side. Use a cle,111.
2 sharp sc11lpcl or l111ifc to cut down rhrough
rhc rhizome bcrween du: lc(,di11g ,,seudobulb ,111d
tire bacl,bulbs. Carefully 111tll free rhc leading
pscudolmlb; if necessary, cut through rhe mars.
n·imoff ,my
3 damaged roo,s
w,d old or dec,d
bacl,lmlbs from
both secrio11s.
- RtpOl 11,e nwin
plant into a pot ½in
(I cm) la,gcr 1lw11 rhc
root ball. Pm rhc
leading pseudoln,lh
in as smalf a pot
as possible.
from the case and place it in the
greenhouse or indoor growing area in
good light. After a further six 1nonths
the plant can be "dropped on ," tha t is,
poued into a larger container, without
disturbing the mass of mix or the new,
growing roots. Pot again after one year
and, fr01n then on, as necessary until
the plant is mature.
At some stage during this time,
the original pseudobulb will become
exhausted. It will shrivel and die and
can then be removed from the young
growing plant and discarded. The new
plant should reach flowering size after
approximately four years.
Sometimes, two dormant buds will
grow on at the same time from the same
pseudobulb. Such planLS are "double-
leadered." In a few years, each leader
will form an independent plant, so that
there are two within one pot. \Vhen it
beco1nes possible to leave four or more
pseudobulbs on each piece, they can be
divided. Plants reduced 10 less than four
pseudobulbs are unlikely to blo01n again
until sufficient strength has been built
up, which may take several years.
DIVIDING A LEADING PSEUDOBULB
With some groups of orchids, notabl)'
the Odoncoglosswn group, propagation
by backbulbs is seldom successful. An
alternative, although risky, method of
propagation is by removal of the leading
pseudobulb. lt must be allempted only
with strong, healthy plants with leaves
on all , or n1os1, of iLS pseudobulbs.
The Odo11togloss11111 group includes
all species of the genus Odo11togloss11111
as well as closely related genera, hybrids
(including intergeneric hybrids), and any
cultivars derived from 1hen1, for example
x Odo11 tocidiu111, which is an intergeneric
hybrid between Odo111ogloss11111 and
0 11cidium. All plants with Odontoglossum
species in their parentage ,nay be
increased in the same war
Propagate from leading pseudobulbs
in spring or autumn, when the plant is
neither in full growth nor dorma nt, and
the leading pseudobulb has new shoots
about 6in (15cm) tall. Knock the plant
out of its pol and separate the lead ing
pseudobulb from the rest of the plant by
cuuing through the connecting rhizome.
Tease apart the rooLS gently. If necessary,
cut through them, but take care not to
damage the pseudobulbs.
Pot the leading pseudobulb with its
own roots into as smal l a po t as will
comfortably hold it. Replant the rest of
the plant into a pot a liule larger than
the root ball. New growth should appear
from the base of the second pseudobulb
and go on to flower when mature.
PROPAGATION OF THE CATTLEYA GROUP
The Catcleya group are epiph)•tic,
sympodial orchids. The term appli es to all
species of Cattleya as well as other closely
related genera and intergeneric hybrids
between them, such as x Laeliocauleya.
All orchids with Cattleya species in their
parentage are propagated in the same
way. The group produces short rhizomes
and erect, stout 10 slender pseudobulbs,
each with one or two sem i-rigid leaves.
They can be increased by separation
of backbulbs in the usual way and can
also be divided into equal parts of four
or more pseudobulbs, where each has a
DORMANT EYES
\Vhe11 clil'idi11g pseudobulbs and bacl1b111bs.
100l1 for don11a111 "eyes· (II rhc base (/1cl't of
a Call leya). TJ,cs, should be fm cmcl green; if
sl1riveled o,· brown, they are dead. There should
he at least one healthy eye 011 each 11seuclob11lb
or hacl1b11/b 10 be p,·opagcued.

TAKING CUTTINGS OF DENDROBI UM
Jt<tW('fJI ll(Hfr~
Remo\'e II I Oin (25cm) long
1 sec1io11 of a healll,y cw,e. Cw 2 llic c,me, dh•itling it into pieces
with" ~hmp lmifc just c~bove a lc,if abo,11 Ji11 (8cm) long. E11ch cu11i11g
node or m the bnsr of the ame. should hnve or lcns1 ont node.
new growth (see p.J 79) . Someti mes,
however, the old er pseudobulbs or back-
bulbs lack new growth . If so, the)' can be
s tarted into g rowth by culling th rou gh
the rhiz01n e between the pseudobu lbs,
without lifti ng them, in early autum n .
Leave the divisions in p lace until the
following s pring. Separate an d repot
the m when n ew g rowth a ppears o n each
division , but before new roots grow out
from the bases of the new g rowth , 10
nower 2- 3 years laier.
ORCHIDS WITH CANELIKE PSEUDOBULBS
Al first glance, som e S)•In podials, n otably
De11drobiw11, seem 10 be monopodial,
because their leaves grow at the ends of
long, seldom-branching stems. In fact,
the "ste ms " are canelike pseud obu lbs;
they may have leaves growing from
nodes on the cane or from the canes tip.
Flowers develop from nodes along the
canes, usually in spring. De,uirobi um
and Thunia wi th can es wi ll prod uce new
growth rrom dormant bu ds a l the nodes
so can be increased fro1n "stem " cu uin gs
(see above), w hic h nowcr in 2-3 years.
Sometimes, Dend.-obium produce
adventitious g rowths, or s m all p lan tl ets,
fro m nodes on the can e. T hese, too, can
be used for propagation (see right) . Most
plan1le1s nower in 2-3 years.
DIVIDING ORCHIDS W ITHOUT PSEUDOBULBS
Some sym pod ials, such as Paphiopeclilum
and Ph.-agmipediu m, do 11 01 d eve lo p
pseudobulbs. Both arc c ha llenging to
propagate; they have no backbulbs and
do not respond well 10 division. Some
species are a lso notoriously reluctant
to n ower before the)' p roduce multi ple
shoots , u sually in 4-5 years.
T hese o rc hid s can be d ivided, w hen
they have at least fou r growth s, by
cuning through the th ick rhizomes
before growth begins in late win ter
or early s pring, in 1nuch the same way
as d ividing pseudobu lbs (see p .J 79).
However, it is advisable 10 a u e mp l this
only with ma ture , well-developed plants,
so that the multiple g rowths needed fo r
nowering remain on th e pa ren t p lanl.
Cut midwo> Nodrs will
1>ro,ltccc growth
C111 bc1wec11 1he leaf nodes of Filf ,~ seed tray with moist
3 sphagnum moss. Lay rhe
cuttings on rhe moss, cove,; cuul
Jieep in ,~ humid, wann place.
PROPAGATING FROM ADVENTITIOUS GRO\.VTHS
Choose a plm11lc1 wi1h s1ro11g. hcaflhy roots
1 (1,e,c a Dcndrobium) cuul se,•rr it from die
1>wcnt stem will1 c~ clean, sharp ,mifc.
A- Z OF EPIPHYTIC ORCHIDS
ADA Cool-growi ng sympodia1; divide plam
or remove backbulbs (see />.179) U1-
AtR11>1·S Cool- to in lcrmcdiate-growing
monupodial; as for Vcmda (see p.18.J) i11-
A 1"GIUECUM Propagation not recommended.
ANvur.OA CRAou~OR Tu1 1r- nR<..1110 Cool-
growing S)'lllpodial; divide plant or remove
b;,ckbulbs (sec p.179) in spring!.
X ANGUI.OCASTE Cool- 10 intermediale-
growing sympodial; as for A11g11/oa.
A RACtlNIS SCORPION' ORCHID Wann· or
inlermediate-growing monopodia1; 1ake
stem sections as for Vanda (see p.183) 11,
J\scOCENTRllM lntennediale-growing
monopodial; as for Vanda (see p.18.3) 111-
B ARKERIA Cool-growing sympodial: divide
as for Paphiopcdilum (see left ) in spring 11-
BRASSA.VOLA l 1uermediale-growing
sympoclial; divide s1emlike pseudobulbs
of large plants in s pring 11,
BRASSIA Cool-growing sympodial; divide
plan, or remove backbulbs (see p.179) 1-
x BRA550CATTl.£\"A Imcrmediate-growing
,ympodial; remove single backbulbs (see
,,.179) in spring 1-
x 8RA~~OLAl:UOCA11 1l:)/ \ Intermediate-
growing sympodial: remove si ngle b;,ck-
bulbs (see p.179) in spring 1-
B PLBOPHl'J.LVM Cool.. intermediate- or
warm-growing sympodial; divide backbulbs
O RC HIDS
Just CO\rtr roots
hilh mix
TJ1e cultings should root in"
4 few weehs, producing plo111 lets.
Once they t1re large enough to
handle. pCI !hem individually.
Poi 1he plar11le1 111 <1 3111 (8cm) p-01 of fine
2 ord1icl mix. Mal:e sure that rhe roors (see
inset) sil JHSI l><elow 1hc s11rf11ce.
(set· p.179) in spring 11-
CAnLt\"A Intermediate-growing sympodial;
divide or remove single backbulb (p.179) 1-
COELOG\'Nf: Cool- or intermediate-growing
sympodial; divide plant or remove back-
bulbs (see p.179) in spring 1-
CrMB/DIUM Cool-growing sympodial; divide
plan, or remove si ngle backbulbs (1>.179) 1-
D E.NDROBIUM Cool- to intermediate-growing
sympodial; take s1em cullings in spring or
remove plan, lets (see above) 1-
0 f.NOROCHILUM G OLDEN CHAIN ORCI 110 Cool-
growing sympodial; d ivide plant or remove
single backbulbs (see p.179) in spring!-
DRACULA Propagation no, recommended.
£NCYCLM Cool-growing sympodial; divide
plan, or remove single backbulbs (see p.179)
in spring,.
f PIOENDRUM Cool- or inlt:rmediate-growing
sympodial; divide as for Paphiopedilu111 (see
lef1) in spri ng~. A few are terrestrial.
LIELIA Cool- or intermediate-growing
sympodial; occasionally divide backbulbs
(see p.179) in spring 11-
x I.Atl.lOCATTLErA Cool-growing sympodial;
divide plant or remove backbulbs (sec
p.179) in spring!-
LE\180GI.OSSU.\ I Cool-growing S)'mpoclial:
divide backbulbs (sec p.179) in spring,.
(Co,11i1111ed tm p. 183.)
181
PERENNIALS
M ONOPODlAL ORCHIDS
Instead of pseudobulbs, these orchids
have an upward-growing stem or rhizome
with new leaves produced at intervals
from the growing tip. Some, for instance
Phalaenopsis, have a shon rhizome and,
as new leaves develop at the top, older
leaves below are shed, so that at any one
time the plant bears 3-6 leaves. Orchids
with this habit are self-regu lating in size
and never become undul)' tall. Other
monopodials, such as vandas, produce a
much longer rhizome with many leaves
appearing in pairs in succession from
the apex, whi le the rhizome grows
continually taller. With ei ther growth
habit, normal division is impossible.
PRO PAGATING PHALAENO PS IS FROM KEI KIS
Cui JltSf ,lcq>
C'10Ui!,h IQ ,Ii(('
tl1ro11gl1 b, cut
\Vash your lumds ,mcl use
1 a s,r, ilizccJ scalpd. Select a
kcif noclc, rhe11 nurhc a \ 'trl ical
cw down rite f('IHCr of thr
bmcr rhm covet') rhc muk. Do
no, cur inw rhr bud bent'arh.
Afr er 6-8 wcd1s.
4 5
())('\\II(
d,r tu.:atcd nodes swplc,
should 11mcl11cc 1i11y
p/mufers. Lay the
sum across somr
small pors of orchid
mix. Peg t'ach 11lantlct
singly into n pm
nml l1eep moist w
t 11cow'<1gt it w root
imo rhe mix.
ROOTED PHALAENOPSIS
PLANTLETS
fJoh'rr srcm a,iscs
from Im/ 110tk
1 upward-growing rhizomes, each wi th
Some Phalaenopsis. particularly
P. lueddemanniana, occasionally
produce plmulcts from rhc old flower«/
srcms. Sepm·arc the 11l111ulet from the
pare,u by severing the stem I in
(2.5cm) below 1he plm11le1 . Prepare Cl
Jin (8011) poi of orchid mix, t/1e11 sit
rhe p/11111/et on rhe surface. Anchor
the acri<1I roots 10 rhe s1uface wi,h
wire staples.
182
vVhile man)' monopodials do not
increase as readily as S)~npodials, they
do have a natural abilit)' to reproduce if
the growing tip, where the new leaves
fonn, becomes rotten or damaged. If
this occurs, a plant may produce new
growth from a point lower down on the
stern. This ability may be exploited for
propagation. Only Phalaenopsis orchids
produce new plantlets on flowered
stems (see below), while o thers produce
plantlets at various points along the
rhizome or near the base.
TAKI NG STEM SECTIONS
Monopodial orchids, such as in Vanda,
that produce a long, upward-growing
rhizome may be propagated when the
l 'si11g srcrili::ed rweczt,s. Use <1 stniliznl plant
2 peel bc,cJ, w,cl 1mfl ,ow~y 3 labd or a spmula w smcm·
rlrr two haf"n: of die bract to a Huk /1eilli pasrc (gwwrh
t:Xl'osc du· eye. Do not I rave 110,monc) O\'Cr each
any s11<1gs. RcmO\'f rhc brnch c_,•£· (see inset) and the
from 3--1 n()des on rhc srrm. cxpos1,.·<l rissue (lr0tmd il .
lljtcr 12-18
mo11d1s, when die
1,lantlc1s are at fc.'asr
Jin (8nn) wll. they
,11ay be dctt1cl1cd fmm
ll,c parcm pla111. Cut
Ilic f}{IJl;'lll SlCUI IICXl
to 1l1e p/11111/cr and
cur bath to its bas•~.
TJ1r llt!h' pla111 slwultl
flower in two ycw·s.
parent plant reaches a certain size and
stage in its development. As the plant
grows, new leaves are made at the tip
and old ones are shed from the base.
Even tually, the lower portion of the stern
becomes bare and leafless, with aerial
roots emerging from the axils or old leaf
bases. At this stage, the top pan of the
plan t may be rc1noved, t0ge1her with
iLS aerial roots, to encourage the lower,
leafless portion to produce new growth
(see facing /)age) . This is also a good way
of managing plants that have become
100 tall and top-heavy, but it docs carry
some risk to the parent plant so shou ld
be done on l)' when absolutely necessary.
In spring, at the start of the gro,ving
season, cut through the rhizome with
a sharp knife and repot the top portion
of the plant. Place in humid shade with
a nightti1ne minimum of 6 1-66°F
( 16-19°C); mist -spra)' regularly with
nonalkalinc water for a few weeks to
avoid the sections dr)'ing out.
Wrap the lower stem in damp moss
to encourage one or more new roots
and shoots 10 fonn. Cover the moss
with clear plastic and tie in place. Keep
the moss damp. New growth should
appear in a few weeks, at which point
the plastic and moss should be removed.
Alternatively, leave the leafless lower
portion of the plant in its container and
11n-parcd place in a closed case at the appropriate
temperature (see />.178 and A-Z of
Epiphytic Orchids, Pr>-181 a11cl 183).
vVithin a few weeks, a new plant should
begin to grow fron1 a node near the stern
base. After 6-12 months, when the new
plant has at least two pairs of leaves and
its own roots, it can be removed from
the old stern and potted.
P ROPAGATING FROM PLANTLETS
Some monopodial orchids reproduce
freely and naturally by producing new
plantlets at various points along the
rhizome or near the stem base. These
can be left on the plan t until they are
established and have their own leaves
and roots. At this stage, the planilets
can be removed and potted separately
without any risk to the parent (see left);
most will flower in 1-2 years.
Plialaenopsis species have short,
3-6 oval, flesh)' leaves. They rarcl)'
produce new growths from their base
naturally but may do so if the center
of the plant beco1nes damaged or rotten.
The flower spikes, which appear from
the base of the leaf, are unusual in that
their stems have nodes on the lower
portions, each with a tiny potential
growth C)'C beneath a covering bract.
vVhen the first flowering from the
stem tip has finished and has been cut
off, the lower nodes may be stimulated
to produce a second flowering stem.
 ORCHIDS

TAKING A STEM SECTION OF VANDA GROUP ORCHIDS

Lemt top of
seem cxpO!>t,l
10 allow in
(th· ,rnd water

Rf 11Wvt.· 011e or two portions of the stem.
2 cuuing srrnighr tlcmss rhe s1em bcrwcen
kaf 11odes will, pnmcrs. Malte sure duu rhc
sario11 has some hcald1y ac, i(ll "°''ts.
i -- - - -- Ple1~lic•(Ollted Sft•1•f
s1akt: SlfJJl'OrtS
stem until ii rums
IIIIO mb:
\Vrnp Ott' leafless lower stem in a ½i11 (Jcm)
3 layer of moist sp1wg111m1 moss ro encourage
new slwots. Se<:ure 1l1e moss in place wid1 twine.
then wra1, in clear plastic. Keep the moss moist.
Lc,,sr ~lt'm
scaio,1 slioulcl
jloh er agaiti
j,i 2-J ) 'fiH'S

1'0 1 tire top

4 stem section
in orchid mix. Sir Kee~ rh~ stem
tire b11se of tire
srl'm j ust in the
5 secuon
the sluule ar a
111

mix anti suppon mimmum of about

ir wUh a swrtly 64°F us•c).
sra,?c unrH it roots. Spray irJre,,ueiuly
Vanda mul allied orchids ha\'C ll single Sttm. Do 1101 bUJ)' rht' to avoicl
1 \Vhrn this becomes wp-l1emy. the plant (11n1: aerial roots, dehydration until
V. tricolor ''Clf. su:.wis) may be cur i11w Sl'Ctions Allo,\ m~rial roots bcamse a,ey will rhc new roots
to 01co11ragc iu•w gmwth from rhf lower stem. IO 0ml (>\'t'r /)(II be prtmc w mt. csrablislr.

This can be usefu l in lengthening the

nowering period by several weeks or
even months. II sometimes occurs
naturall)' to such an extent that stems
need to be removed altogether if the
plant is not to nower itself to death.
Nodes o n the lower flowering stem
can be encouraged to produce plantlets,
or kei kis, instead of nowers, by treati ng
the nodes with keiki paste (available fro,n
some orchid special ists). This compound
contai ns rooting hormo nes and growth-
promoti ng vitamins. However, it can
be quite difficult to maintain the sterile
cond itions that are essential for success.
As soon as the first blooms fade,
remove the top, nowered portion of the
stem. Select a node and remove the bract
carefull)' as shown (see left). Coat the
bud and the tissue immediately around
it sparing!)' with keiki paste. Treat 3-4
nodes per stem and only two stems per
plant. New plan tlets should develop
within 6-8 weeks. Leave them on the
stem until new leaves and roots have
grown. Peg down each plantlet onto a
small pot of mix and allow the plan tlet
to root directly into the new pot before
detaching it from the parent stem.
A-Z OF EPIPHYTIC ORCHIDS
(Co11ti111,l'd from p . 181. )
LrCA;1e Cool-growing, srmpodial epiphy1 ic
or lCrrestrials. Divide plant or remove si ngle
backbulbs (see /J.179) in spring!,
MA\Dl-\~111 ...\ Propagation n o1
rccornmcndcd.
f.f. \XIUJ\RU Cool-growing sympoclial : divide
plant or remove single backbulbs (sec p.179)
in spring!.
f..,fH.TONIA Cool-- or imcrmediatc-growing
S)'11>podial; remove single backbulbs (sec
p.179) in spring !I-
M1tTONIOPSIS PA,·S'i ORCIIID Cool-growing
syrnpodial~ divide when large enough (see
p.179) in spring!!~- . growing sympodial: divide plant or remove
x OtXWTIODA Cool-growing S)'lllpodial;
as for Oclontogloss11111.
x Oooxrocr0Jl M Cool-growing sympodial :
1
as for Oclonrogloss11m.
Ooo,·rc>GlO)SV.\I Cool-growing sympodial;
divide leading pscudobulb (see /J.180)
x Ooo., TONIA Cool-growing S)'mpodial: as
for 01lo11toglossu111.
0:-.'CIDll .\1 Cool- or inlcrmcdiatc•growing
sympodial; divide those with pscudobulbs
or remove s ingle backbulbs (src p. 179) in
spring~- Divide others when large enough&.
PA PHIOPEDILl'M SurP1 ·ROR<.t-tlO Cool- or
imennccliatc-growing sympodial epiphytes
or terrestrials; divide by cuu ing through
rhizomes (see />. 181 ) &U.
PH,\L-\f:~OJ>S1~ MOTIi ORCIIID \ Vann -growi ng
monopodial: remove roored plantle1s i or
propagate keikis ~U an)' 1ime (see p.182).
PHR.AGMIPfOJl'M Cool- or lntermcdiatc-
growing sympodial~ divide by culling
through rhizomes (sec p.181) in spring ~U-
ROS.$tOCU>)..SVM Propagation not
rccom,nended.
x SoP11ROt.,1fl ,oc,rnE>~ lmermedia1c-
single backbulbs (see />. 179) in spring!,
Sor1-1Ro.,1rrrs Propagation not recommended.
SM.NHOPEA Cool-growing syrnpodial; divide
plant or remove single backbulbs (see p.179)
in spring ! .
~u. VANO/\ lrucrmcdiatc- to warm-growing
monopodial; stem sec1ions (see a/Jove) 1U-
x VL, LSTEKEARA Cool-g.-owing sympodial;
as ror Odo,uoglossum.
x \ VtLSO,\IARA Cool-growing sympodial: as
for Odo111oglossu111.

183
PERENNIALS
T ERRESTRIAL ORCHIDS
Commercial 1echniqucs for propagating
hardy terrestrial orchids from seeds
have produced an increasing range of
available species and, once acquired,
many are easy 10 propaga1e vege1a1ively.
Terrestrials are either rhizomatous (wi1h
rhizomes and, often, pseudobulbs Lhm are
similar 10 1hosc of epiphytic sympodial
orch ids) or 1ubcrous (producing a leaf
roseue from a bud a1 the 1op of an
underground tuber). The propagation
me1hod depends on 1he grow1h habit.
A suitable mix may be made of equal
pans soil, coarse sand, mixed pea1 and
leaf mold, and fine bark, with a link
bon emeal added.
DIVIDING RHIZOMATOUS TERRESTRIALS
Most rhizomatous Lerrcs1rials are
propagated in spring, just before grow1h
begins. All divisions need food reserves
if 1hey are 10 establish as a new plan1, so
1crrcs1rials arc divided into pieces wilh a
leading shoot and 2-3 pseudobulbs, on
much 1he same principle as sympodial
cpiphy1es (sec JJ.179). Terrestrial orchids
often grow with 1heir pseudobu lbs
DIVIDI NG C LUMPS OF TERRESTRIAL PSEUDOBULBS
\l
_,
Some tcncstriaf orchids. such cu: these
1 Plcionc formosana, form 1igl11ly pachcd
dump$ when mmurr. J'l1esr «m be lifted <mcl
cli,,frtr,l i11 the ,mwnm. whik du· pseudobutbs
mt· donnmu , to providr n,·w plants.
Clean off any dead nwue,. mul tl'lrlO\ c
3 ,my loose /J<IJ>CI) 11111ics from 1/,r , iabk
p:,tiulobulbs. Rr.mov<' dt·tul mms usmg a drm1.
slwrp kmft·, b111 wltc affe nm lO tltmwgc the
nrw and hettlll1y mots (sec insc1).
184
partially buried in the soil: when
replanting, sci 1he pseudobulbs a1 the
same depth as before. The divisions may
be plan1ed o ut in si1nilar conditions LO
the paren1 plant or poued in pans and
gTown on in 1he greenhouse.
Rhizomatous orchids 1ha1 have
no pseudobulbs may be divided in10
sec1ions, each wi1h 2-3 years' of grow1h
beh ind 1he leading shooL. These annual
g rowths can be coun1ed by the joints
on the rhizome. Cyp,.ipetlium do well if
divided toward 1he end of the growing
season, when their food reserves are
disiributed evenly through 1he rhizome.
There is less risk of damaging any new
growth. and 1he plan1s reestablish well
before 1he onset of dormanc)'.
Most rhizomatous species regular!)•
produce side grow1hs from 1hc main
rhizome and provide plentiful ma1erial
for pro paga1ion. A few branch rarely.
producing a single, con1inuously
elongating growth. which makes normal
division dirficu lL. vVhen these rhizomes
show four or more annual growth joints,
they can be induced 10 shoot from 1he
dorman1 buds b)' tuning on lr halfway
through 1he rhiz01ne earl)' in 1he
Lif1 ll1t· don11m11
2 ,,srudobulbs
carefully, 11si11~ a tool
to e'"sc tlit·m mil /mn1
1hr dump. TtJJ:e «,re
to Cl\ oid damaging
the roots. Any oltl,
sh, il'ded pseudobulbs
shoulcl be disca,tlccl.
bcc,m~c they will nm
11m,luce l1cahl1.> new
growth.
l'l'fp<lle 5-6in (IJ-l5cm) p<111s of af1ec-
4 clrni11111g. smllr.ss l"'lling mix. Spare fivt·
J>Scutlobulbs 011 the mix. Ca,,et 1hr mots with
mix so tluu die g,ow111g "eyes .. tH rhc lx1sc crft
jusr td,m•t• rhe s111fcrcr. \Vm<·r n11tl lnht'I.
growing season. Do no1 cu1 1hrough 1he
rhizome completely: the aim is simply
lo reduce the do1ninancc of the growing
1i p and induce formation of sideshoo1s.
Leave each division of at least 1wo
grow1hs in place un1il 1he beginning of
1he next growing season. 1f successful,
active buds should begin 10 shoot in
the spring. Lifi 1he plant, separale 1he
seclions, and poi individually. Grow on
in 1he same conditions as the parent.
PROPAGATING PLEIONES
Members of the genus Pleione may
be epiphy1ic, li1hophy1ic, or terrestrial.
They fonn 1igh1 clu,nps of single. small
pseudobulbs that are in fact separate
plants, rather 1han a succession of
differen1ly aged pseudobu lbs on a
connecting rhizome. The pseudobulbs
nower in spring. 1hen die back over the
stnnmcr while a new pseudobulb forms,
read)• 10 nower in the following spring.
Only occasionally do pseudobulbs
persist for a second winier 10 produce
new shoo1s in spring.
Clumps of Pleione may be lifted
and divided in au1umn (sec below). The
pseudobulbs usually fall apan naiurallr;
PLEJONE BULBILS
811/bils fom ,
whe,.e dtt' leaf
grew a, the wp of
1hc oltl pscudobulb.
In late autumn,
collect 11,e bulbils
tmd swrc in a cool. clry
' place over winter. In spring,
half-b111y the lmlbils in a
small l"'" offree-draining
ord1icl mix aml grow
011 fc,r a year.
 O RC HIDS

OLV LDLNG TERRESTRIAL ORCHIDS \VLTH TUBERS

bouom o f the s tem that arises from
the old tuber. Take care 10 leave a s mall
portion o f s te m with on e o r two roolS
still auached to the o rig ina l tuber.
The rose11e s h ould n ower n ormally a nd
susta in the g rowth of the n ew tuber. The
old tub er wi ll then develo p on e or more
g rowths fro,n d ormant ax illary bu ds
o n its s tem, which will in tu rn produce
their o wn tubers. This operatio n can be
performed withou t rem oving the plant
from the soil or its contain er, si nce
the two n ew plan ts formed are left 10
complete th eir growth natura lly.

STEM CUTTINGS OF TERRESTRIALS

Lift llrf pln11l (/it~rf ti DaCl)1l01·hiz:a) m ,my time
1 from Nffht tmtumn w ct1dy SJJl'ing. Gently w<1sh off
rhc soH w n.·vt·ol die rubcrs. Cur Ilic underground src·m
bch,·rcn du: oltl and the m·w wbrr ,,irh ,, slu11p lmifr.
if they do not, gently p ush them apan
u ntil they separate. A plan t m ay also
prod uce bu lbils (see box, faci ng page) at
the poin t from which th e o ld leaf was
shed. The bulbils may be de tached a nd
used 10 inc rease stot k .
P ROPAGATING TUBEROUS ORCHIOS
The g rowth of tubero us orc hids is
sim ilar 10 that o f o the r tuberou s p lants,
a nd, like the m , they vary in their abili ty
to prod uce new tubers. Som e, like
Oplirys, ra rely do so, while Dc1e1ylorliiza
may form s ubstantial colo nies of offsets.
\.Vhe re new tubers a rc formed natu rally,
clumps may be lifted a nd d ivided at
any time during dorma ncy (see above) .
Many growers p refe r 10 d o this in ea rly
au tumn 10 avoid da maging young rOOlS,
which begin g rowth early in the year.
After d ivision , pla nt o ut the parent pla nt
and the offsets w he re the)' are 10 nowe r.
Orchids such as Opl11ys a nd Ord1is
1ha1 are relucta nt 10 p rodu ce new tubers,
usu ally form ing o nly o ne tuber a }·ear
10 replace th e o ld, can be coaxed 10 d o
Rq,lmu lltt JJarc111 mul h'mt, wdl. A few terrestrials, su ch as Ludis ia
2 Plam our thf new tube, s m the smut· discolor, have nesh )', segmen ted stems
clcprl1 ns they wc,c brfou:, spacing tJ1nn that root from the nod es as they tou ch
C1IJ<111I 6i11 (1.5cm) C1pan. \Vala a 11<1 label. th e ground. This ability makes them
eaS)' 10 increase by stem c uui ngs (see
so by o ne o f two forms of division. below). Ludisia is s ubtro pical in o rig in ,
"Sum,ner" propagatio n is used j u st as so, a fter th e cuuings callus, pot in
the nowers begin 10 rade, from early terrestrial orchid mi x an d g row o n in a
s pring o nwa rd, dep ending o n the s haded closed case with h igh humidity
s pecies. lift a plant fro m the soil and a nd bou om heal o f 68°F (20°C).
d eta ch the new tuber from the roseu e,
c u u ing the underg rou nd s te m , or stolon, LUDISIA STEM CUTTING
that connects the m j us t above the new
tubers bud. The n ew tuber wi ll be
plump and fi rm, as d is tinc t from th e
o ld, brown , and s h rive led o ne.
Repot the roseu e an d o ld tuber. with
,nost o f its root system intact. Pot th e
new tuber separately; treat it as if it
is dormant a nd keep cool an d dry.
The o ld s hoot (with its nower spike
re moved 10 p re vent en ergy being The srcms
e xpended on seed produ ctio n) is ke pt of die rn rrsr, icd
in growth lo allo w mo re n ew tubers to jewel mchi<l (Luclisia
be produced before d orma ncy. discolor) ,wulilr pn)(lua
"\'linte r" propagation uti lizes the <l<frflllitiOII) IOUb. "fake
unnowered roseue as it reaches full leaf Ach<nuitic>1o J-5in (8-IJcm) sum -ti/J
develo p1nen1. By this stage, a n ew tuber ,<ml nurings. cutting bdow a
s ho uld have begun 10 form be low the noclc. cruel km•(' in a cool,
roselle. Remove the roseu e an d new dr)' platl' for 48 Jwurs to
tuber togethe r by c ulling throug h the callus /Jefor,· portiug.

A-2 OF TERRESTRIAL ORCHIDS

Br L ru LA Mosrly cool-growing
(6. sirima is ha rdy in Zones 5-8)
and rhizomamus: cl l\·idc in
spring as for l'lcio11c (sec foci11g
page) i. Flowers in firs t year.
C..U..-L'\'THC tv1 ostly warm- or cool-
growing terrestrials (C. discolo,
is ha rd)' in Zones 7-9) and
rhizo1muous; d ivide j us t before
growth begins in spring. as for
srmpodial epiphytcs (,re p.179);
divisions must have a 1cading
shoot and a1 least two
pseudobulbs ~!, Flowers in
nrst year.
CrrR1PE01tr,\I L AI)\\ }t l PPr:R
0RC111D Rhi zomatous: divide
rhizomes in 10 scc,ions in spring
o r autumn (sec/C1ci11g page) l!,
Flowers in 1-2 years. Generally
hardy in Zones 3-7.
DACTll ORl-ll.:A MAR',11 OR(.1110,
Sront:o OR<.1110
Tuberous:
divide when dormanL (set
C1bove) l- Flowers in 1-3 )'Cars.
Some hardy in Zones 5-8.
fPIPA CTIS) )CLLEBORINE
Rhizomatous: divide rhizomes
(sec facing page) whe n dormant
in early spring A. Some hardy in
Zones 4-8. Flowers in first year.
GOOm'MV\ JLW[I ORCIIID Mostl)'
cool-growing, rhizomaious:
divide in spring as for Lutlisia:
keep shaded, cool, a nd hu mid
u ntil es1ablished !U- Siem
cunmgs as for Ludisi<1 I. Flowers
in 1-3 years.
I IABt.N,,RIA \ Varm•growing,
1ubcrous: divide in aunmm or
spring as for 0,1c1ylo1liizn il,
Flowe rs in 3-1 years.
Lt..'DISIA Jr\\ H ORtlil O \Vann -
growing, ribrous-roolcd; l:1ke
Slcm cuuings (see td.>O\'C) !-
Flowers in 1- 3 years.
OJ)lfRr~ 1'\lberous: slow lO
increase, use "summer" and
"winier· propaga1ion ~!l- Some
hard)' in Zones 7-9. Flowers in
3-4 years.
0Rt m:, Tuberous: slow to
inc rease, use "'summer" and
"winter'· propagation 11· Flowers
in J-4 years. Some hardr in
Zones 5-7.
Ptuost Rh izomatous, cpiph)'lic
o r 1erres11ial; divide pscudobulbs
(see fc1ci11g p<1gc) 10 n ower 1hc
next year , . Pro pagate from
bulhils 10 nowcr in 3-5 )•cars !i,
Marci)' in Zones 9-10.
SEMPUS Tuberous; spreads h)'
stolons that produce new tubers
a1 their tips- clcutch and
rcplam new tubers in spring !I.
Flowers in nrs t year. I lardy
in Zones 8-9.

185
A-Z OF PERENN IALS

A- Z OF PERENNIALS
ACANTHUS ACHIMENES HOT-WATER PLANT, CUPID'S B0\VER
BEAR'S BREECHES Drv1StON m autumn or Ill early spnng !
Seeos m early spring U
To increase the )'ield of new plants, cut
OIVISION in ,pring or m :1u1t11nn,
the tubercles in half before pouing.
SEEDS in ,pringil
This tende r genus has been extensively PlanLs Oower in the same year.
C umNGS from nml· 10 hue autumn l
hybridized: many cuhivars are grown. All species can be grown from seeds
All Aca111hus may be divided, especial l)' The plants are dormant in winier, 10 Oower in two )'Cars. Sowing seeds of
variegated forms. They increase surviving as seal)' rhizomes. The rh izomes cultivars or of plants 1ha1 have been
naturally from roots left in the soil , so (small, nodula r swell ings common ly deliberately hybridized (see p.21) can
all except variegated plants are easy 10 called Lubercles) increase in number resuh in interesting color variations.
propagate from root cuuings. Species naturall)' and can be gathered while the Sow on 111055 as for alpines (see p.165)
can be raised from seeds. Use deep pols plan t is dormant in au tu,nn or winter at 64°F (l8°C) in spring as the da)'light
for seedlings and cutlings; Aca111hus (or when dividing the plan t in spring) hours are lengthening; short days
dislike root disturbance. and used for propagation (see below). induce dormanC)'·
DIVISION
PRO PA GATING AC H IME ES PLAN T S FROM TU BERC LE S
Cul clumps into 2-4 pieces (see p.148). I
Autumn division in areas wi th cold, wet
winters is not advisable. Plants divided
in autumn may Oower the next year;
spring-divided plants in 1wo years.
SEEDS
Sow the seeds (see p.151) at
59•F (ls•C). Pot seedlings or
line out in a nurser)' bed to
Oower in three )'ears. Protect
new plants from severe cold
in the first win ter. 111 rhr ,rutm1111 <iftcr the foliage has dird Disca1<I 1lic P"'t111 ,,10111. ll<1lf-fill" scecl 1ray
0
0
CUTT INGS
1 clown, n.·movc du• clonnmu pl(lnt from its pm
or lift it fmm the lx.mkr. 1casr Clf)(lll die ,oois
2 wi,11 uioisr pt·tu. Scaucr the rulx·tdcs t·vrnh•
ovt'I' the s11,fact'. Cm·cr nith ½i,1 (1cm) of />cal
Take 2-3in (5- 8cm) mul dcwch rhr wbc,dcs ftom the dead mots. Label m,cl sw,-.· i11 a cool. ,1,y pince.
root cuuings from
mature, hea lthy plants Pot pfmulcrs
(see p.158). Cuuings srngly "r .~1<,1w
cu: one ,,lcuu I
0 11
Oower in two years.

R IPENING SEEOHEAOS

ACHlLLEA YARRO\V
DIVISION in -.1,ring J
Seeos m :mtumn or 111 ~pring,
CUTTINGS in spring or
in c;i,rlr autumn'
In sining. JJrt!pt1re a 5i11 (JJcm) pot with
3 soilJcss porriug nih. L<1y cdJOur fi"c tuhcrclt·s
on rite s1ofacc. Ccwcr wirh 1/..-½in (5mm- Jcm)
of \'LTmicufirc, label, and water wdl wid1 tepid
water. Ke,·p III tlbo111 59°F (l5°C).
\Vater sparinglv unrif sltoms e1ppew. usually
4 about tl1rn· wcchs re1,c1. After 8-10 weeks.
d1r 1,lwulc1s (here oft\. crccrn) shmdd Jurw
Stl'crnl /"'ir' of lcal'CS (see inset) ,rnd. after 12
weeks (above). 11111y l>e 1>011ccl si11gly. if cksira/.

Both border and alpine

forms of th is genus are
propagated in similar
/\chille<1 ways. The)' may be
·Taygc,ca' d ivided in the usual
way (see p.148) 10 Oowcr in their first
season or into single bud divisions
(see p. 150) for more plan ts. ll ma)' be
possible to take self-rooted cuu ings (see
p.166) from alpines wi1hou1 lifting the
parent. Sow seeds (see p.152) al 59•F
( I s•c); seedlings often Oower in the first
year. Take semi-ripe cuuings (see p.154)
in early autumn or basal stem cutli ngs
(see p.156) in spring from alpines and
border perennials fo r Oowers in a yea r.
AETHIONEMA STONE CRESS
S EEDS in au1 ul'tm or in c.irly spnng !
Cunmcs from hltc :,pring lo earl>· summer U
The woody-based perennials in this
genus (syn. Eunom ia) tend 10 be rather
short-lived, but most stone cresses
come readily from seeds. Special forms
and cultivars must be increased
fro,n cuuings.
SEEDS
------,----,---
Some stone cresses, such as Ae1hio11ema
gta11di.f1011m1 and A. saxalile and their
cultivars, wi ll self-sow in 1he ga rden,
especiall)' when grown on raised beds.
Sow seeds (see p.164) in autu1nn in a
cold frame (of hardy types on ly in cold
climates) or in spring at so•F (!0°C).
PlanlS will Oower with in two years.
CUTTINGS
Take softwood s1em-1ip cuuings, 11/.-2in
(3-5cm) long (see p.166). Put in bright
but indi rect light; if too shaded, new
shoots will become drawn. Poi singl)'
once rooted; plant into final positions
in the late summer or following spring.

186

AGAPANTHUS
AFRICAN BLUE LILY
DMSION in sprmg U
Seeos m amumn or spring A
Species and cultivars in
this genus ma)' all be
divided , especial!)'
those with variegated
foliage. The)' are set
Agar>ant111,, back by frequcm root
·Blue Gian.- disturbance, and older
plants reestablish slowl)' from division;
three- or four-year-old plantS are an
ideal age. Gathered seeds ma)' not come
true to l)'PC but can )'icld some
interesting variations.
DIVISION
Lift clumps and divide into 2-4 pieces
using back-to-back forks (see p.148).
Trim off any damaged roots. Substantial
divisions should nower in the same )'ear.
Plants may be divided into single crowns
10 grow on in nurse,)' beds or pots.
Protect from severe cold in the first
winter, if needed , and
plant out in spring. ln
warm climates, plantS
may Oower in 12
months, but most take
2-3 )'Cars.
SEEDS
Seeds sown at 61°F (16°C)
(see p.151) shou ld germ inate
within three weeks. Grow on
established seed lings in a cold
frame and, if necessary, protect
from cold; in spring, transfer to
a nursery bed. The new plants
should nower in the third )'ear.
G ,\THERING AGAPANTlll'S SEEi)$
Cut Jlowerhcmls ''in rhc g1--cc11 .. when die
s,c,lpods a re swofltn b11t before il,cy split
011c11 . Keef> in o hox in o warm. lhy plare
until thr srt"ds lwvc been idroscd.
DlVIOING AG,\PANTMUS
After cliliding into st£1io11s. aircfully 1rim off
any ofd srems and damaged mot tis-sue, using
a de,m, sharp ,wifelO cut straighl across each
mot. Dusr die wounds with firngicide , such a.s
sulfur dust, to guard ngnins1 rm {sec insel).
ALCHEMILLA LADY'S 1\1ANTLE
DIVISION in ,pring'
SEEDS in m1H1mn or ~pnng U
These perennials prefer
full sun, and most
readily self-sow. Most
are hardy in much of
Nonh America; a few
Akh,·,11illa from sou thern Africa
1110/lis are less hardy.
The l1brous-roo1cd clumps of an)' species
or cu ltivar are easi ly divided (see p.148).
Pull them apart and replant, or divide
into single crowns with strong roots and
pot them or line them ou t in nursery
beds; the new plantS should Oower in
1he same )'Car.
If raising the hardier species from
seeds, 1he best results arc obtained fro,n
an autumn sowing (see p.152) , fol lowed
b)' exposure to winter cold. Spring-sown
seeds of less hard)' plants kept at 60°F
(15.5°C) will germina1e within three
weeks and ma)' Oower the same season.
O THER PERENNIALS
ABtLMO~tllL, Sow seeds (s,·e p.151) in
spring at 60°F (I 5.5°C) l ,
Ac ..,r::--., Divide in earl)' spring or auLumn
(sec 11, l 67) l , Sow seeds (/J.164) in gri11y soil
mix in autumn, in a cold rrame U- Take
stem-lip cullings c,,./66) or self-rooted
cuuings o r runners (p.148) in late spring l,
ACA'<TllOLIMO" Seeds (see p.164) when ripe
or in earl}· spring; put in cloche or cold fr:unc:
seeds have low viabili1y lU- Take semi-ripe
cuulngs (p. I66) in late summer~ remove
lower, spiny leaves with scalpel: C\.lltings ro1
easi ly Ul- Use very g rilly soil mix; shelter in
a cold rramc: do 1101 overwa1cr.
ACIPH\'LL\ Division (sec p. I -18) in spring
may be possible U- Sow seeds fresh (p.151)
in autumn; put in cloche or cold frame U-
Do no l overwa1cr.
ACONITV" Divide (see 11, H8) in early spring
~- Sow seeds (11. 15 1) in autumn; put in cold
frame or cloche: gcrminmion may be slow !i.
ACTAEA Divide rhizomes (sec p.149) in
spring~- Sow seeds (p. 15 l ) outdoors in
au1umn: germination may be s low U ,
AOO~IS Divide ar1cr nowcring; dust
large cu1s with fungicide (see p. 148)
U. Seeds (p.15 1) when ripe in grill)'
soil mix: pul in cloche 0 1· cold frame;
old seeds germinate crraticall)' U-
AEsct-tr:,.AN fHUS Sow ripe seeds (see
11.151 ) at 70°F (2 !°C); short viability u.
Softwood cullings (p. 15-1) any time l,
AGASl'AUi~ (syn. 8t<tTTO,ASTRUM) Sow
seeds (see 11.151 ) in spring at 60°F
( I 5.5°C) l- Take semi-ripe euHings
c,,.J54) in summer or attlumn t
ACt..AONl:\IA Divide in spring (see
11.148) U, Sow ripe seeds (11, l 51) a,
70°F ( 21 °C) ~-
ABELMOSCHUS - ANCHUSA
SEEDLINGS OF AlPINE I.ADY'$ ~IA:-ITLE
Ladys 1111111tlc (lier, A. alpi na) of1r11 self-sows i11
the garden. Lift 11,c secclli11g, lm~fully. llS soon <IS
they nrc lmge enough to luuulle, mul trn11splwu.
AJeGA Divide (sec p.148) or detach roo1ed
plantle:Ls in spring or in early aulumn !, SO\V
seeds (p. r5 r) in sprmg at 50°F ( I o•c) ,.
ALCCA Sow seeds ( Sff 11,151) in spring o r
summer at 60"F (I 5.5°C) l,
A1 OCA,H Divide m spnng (sec p.149) l- Sow
seeds (11,151) in spring at 77°F (25°C) ~-
A10,so,1 A, for Dic,slia (sec p. l 94) I,
Al 1'1/\IA As for At11c<1sia (scf al,m,c). bul sow
seeds when ripe.
AL'fCRN,\NTlltRA Divide in earl)' amumn or
spring (p.H8) ,. ~m i-ripe s tem-tip cuHings
(JJ.154) in early au1umn; soft\vood cuuings
of overwintered pla111s in earl)' spring U-
At\''-',UM Sow seeds (s.cc p. 151 ) in 3utmnn or
earl)' spring!. Semi-ripe c uuings (11. /66) in
lalc summer: use rooting compound and
g riuy soil mix 1-
,\~,K\ CtlJ, Sow seeds (see p./5/) in spring
at 60°F (15.5°C) l , Take basal stem euuings
(p.156) in spring U,
A '--'GAL us Detach self-rooted
la)'ers (sec p.24) at any time; best
in summer,. Sow seeds (see
p.151) in spring at 50°F ( L0°C) , .
r\ "lr\PHAUS Divide in spring (sc•e
p.148) l, Sow seeds (sec p.151) in
sprmg at 50°F ( l0°C) l- Take basal
stem cuuings (11. 156) in spring l-
ANCI IL'M Divide i mo single crowns
in spring (see p.148) l , Seeds in
spring (p. 151 ) at 50°F (I 0°C) l-
Takc root cuu,ngs of eultivars (p. l 58)
in autumn U- Root cuuings (p. 167) ill
late winter, or roscuc tunings (p.166)
each wi1h a piece of stem in late
summer, oft\. «spiwsc, UI,
A CONITUM NAPELLUS SEEDHEADS
187
A-Z OF PERENNlALS
AND ROSA CE ROCK JASMINE
D1V1SION m carlv summer U
Seeos in autumn or when
ripe U Sow seeds (see p.164) as soon as ripe, if
from earl)' lO
CUTTINGS
midsummer JU
Perennial alpines in this
genus (syn. Douglasia)
Anch o,n"· rot if 100 weL, especially
PY""""'"' if cold. Dense cushion
types are best raised from seeds; larger,
mat-forming t)•pcs flower more quickly
if divided or grown from cuuings.
Tweezers are useful; seeds are tricky 10
find and cuttings are tiny.
DIVISION
Divide plants such as A. la11ugi11osa,
A. sarmenrosa, and A. sempervivoides
after flowering (see p.167) into single or
several roselles, 10 nower the next year.
ANEMONE WINDFLO\VER, ANEMONE
DIVISION Ill ~prtng or Ill l.iH·
.!>Untmer U
SEEDS ,, h l.'n rape o r
in spnng U plants nowcr in their second or third
CUTTINGS in mu unrn or m
,, tn1cr !
Rhizomatous anemones
Anrm,mr tend to flower in che
hupd10·n,i, spring; fibrous-rooted,
herbaceous species usually flower in
late summer or autumn . (For tuberous
species, sec /J.261 .) Vvoodland anemones
divide well , but Japanese anemones may
suffer a check in growth and are bellcr
grown fro,n root cullings. The)' may also
produce plantlets around the parent
where roots arc da,nagcd: these can be
lifted and transplanted with care.
DIVISION
Divide late-flowering types, such as
Anemone multifida, in spring. Cut
clumps into 2-4 sections and replant
where they arc 10 nower. Spring or earl)'
summer bloomers, such as A. cmuulense,
are beuer divided immediately after
flowering. The first group should flower
the same year, the lauer in the next year.
Divide rhizomalous species (see
p.J49) when dormant or, 10
locate them without causing
undue damage, as their leaves
die down. Cut the rhizomes
into sections, each with at
least one bud, and replant
i1nmediately before they dry
out. They should nower in
the following season .
SEEDS
Anemone seeds germinate 1nos1
successfull)' if sown thinl)'.as soon as
they are ripe. Fresh , spring-sown seeds
188
SEEDS
possible; old seeds Lend 10 have poor or
erratic germination. Use grill)' soi l mix,
which musl be sterile 10 avoid weeds or
disease overwhelming the tiny seedlings.
Sow in pots and keep in a sheltered
place outdoors. Seedlings are initial!)'
slow Lo develop; delay transplanting
them until the following spring or even
the next one. Plants nower in 2-3 years.
CUTTINGS
Take stem-tip or roseue cullings (see
p.166) of larger, leafier types; root in a
griuy soil mix . Cushion-forming types
are tricky. Take single roselle cuuings or
smal l clumps that have roots and insert
in pure grill)' sand or ground pumice
(see p.167). Plants flower in two years.
(see p.151) kept at 60°F (15.5°C) shou ld
germinate in three weeks. Seed-raised
season. Sow in moist , grill)' soil ,nix
(adding leaf mold for woodland species
such as A. apennina and A. nemorosa).
Transplant fibrous-rooted seedlings
when large enough 10 handle. Seedlings
of rhizomatous anemones arc best left
Lo grow on in their pots for 12 months
before transplanting; liquid feeds during
this period , when the)' are in active
growth, help seedlings grow strongly.
vVoodland species, for example
A. apennina , some forn1s of A. nemorosa,
and A . multifida , often self-sow.
CUTTINGS
To avoid disturbing Japanese anemones,
uncover the edge of the clump and take
root cuuings (see p.158). They usual!)'
flower in 2-3 years. For A. sylvestris, pol
a plant in spring; in autumn, lift it and
slice the root ball across, about 2in
(5cm) below I he crown. Repot both parts,
lightly covering the cut roots on Lhe
lower rool ball with ½in (1cm) (of grit
or soil mix; after a month or so , shoots
will appear. Both parts may be divided
and planted out in spring.
••, .,
....,,.,
.. GATHERING
ANEMONE SEEDS
Some t1nemo11ts hn,•c
woolly ser<lhc<1ds (11c 1~ of
A. muhillda). Some seed, will
fall 0111 naturally; the rcma111dcr
can be sown wUhin the ··wool."
ANTHURIUM
U
DIVISION in t ~,rl}' ~pring
SEEDS in •lttl\unn or !>pnng U
These evergreen, tender
perennials, many or
which are epiph)'tic,
may be divided (see
p.J 48) 10 flower in 1-2
A11011ui 11m years. Take care not 10
,uulracm11uu dainagc lhe fragile
roots. Sow seeds (see p.151) , as soon
as the)' are ripe or in spring, at 77°F
(25°C); they may take several 1non1hs
10 germinate. Seed-raised plants take
severa l rears 10 reach flowering size.
ARMERIA THRIFT, SEA PINK
DIVISION in :1u1umn or Ill c.1rly :tpnng 1
SEEDS 111 a ttl\tmn or in early :,pring 1
CUTTINGS 111 l:uc summer U
Perennial thrifts arc cushion- or mat-
forming plants; most are quite hard)'·
The woody crowns ma)' be divided (see
/J.149); plants arc also easi ly raised from
seeds (see p.151) in a cold frame. When
taking cullings (see ,,.166), use semi-
ripe, leafy basal sterns, 1¼-2in (3-Scm)
long, from the edge of the plant. Bollom
heat is not necessar)', but aids rooting, as
will hormone rooting compound.
ARTEMISIA MUG\VORT,
WOR,VI\VOOD, SAGEBRUSH
DIVISION in -.pnn~ 1
SEEDS m :1tllunu1 or in spring U
CunmGS in late summer o r in spring U
The herbaceous or woody-based
perennials in this genus are easily
divided, and some forms root rather
easily from cuuings. Seed-raised plants
take longer LO mature.
DIVISION
Lift and divide clumping plants, such
as A. lactiflora and A. fudoviciana (5)'11 .
A 1,almeri), into moderate-sized pieces
for replanting al once (see p.148); the)'
make effective plants Lhe same season.
SEEDS
Sown seeds (see p.151) may be placed
in a cold frame-or at 61°F (16°C) 10
germinate within two weeks. Plant out
seedlings in the following spring.
CUTTINGS
Take stem Lips or heeled sideshooLS as
greenwood cuuings (see p.154) in late
summer, except from A. absi11t/1ium
'Lambrook Silver', which roots best from
softwood cuttings taken in spring. Plant
out in the next spring 10 mature in 1-2
)'Cars. A. 'Powis Castle' will not survive
severe winters; take cuttings in summer.
 ANDROSACE - AZORELLA

A SPIDISTRA CAST-IRON PLANT AUBRIETA AUBREY/A

DIVISION in spring' D1v1s10N aflcr nowcring or in
early aununn U
flowering and take semi-ripe cuttings
All species are essen1ial ly 1ender. Divide SEEDS when ripe or in early from the new growth. Insert cuttings up
the woody roo1s1ock using a knife (see Spring~ 10 their leaves in grill)' soil mix in pols
p.148) lo cul clumps into small pieces Cunmos in l:uc summer and or tra)'S and place in a covered nursery
of rhizome wi1h roois. Pot the divisions in earl)' aummn ! bed. Pot as soon as well-rooted (in 3-5
singly; keep al 59°F (15°C) until new weeks) to grow on, 1hen plant OU! later
roots are growing s1rongly. There are 12 species of in the autumn or the following spring.
1\11bri<1a mat- or mound-fonning
Jor· plants in 1his genus , but
A STER on ly cuhivars of Aubrieta cu/10111111 are
com1nonly grown. Taking cuuings is
DlVISIONin spring!
Seeos in spring i
the mos1 reliable method of propagation
CUTTINGS in spl'iog ! for cuhivars.

Perennials in this genus (S)'ll. Cri11iraria, DIVISION

Microg/ossa) benefit from annual or
biennial division, which makes them
less prone 10 mildew. Divide the tight,
woody crowns wilh a spade or back-
10-back forks (see p.148). Crowns
pulled apan into single rooted shoots,
replanted 2-3in (5-8cm ) apan, normally
flower in the same year. Seeds sown (see
p.151) at 59°F (\5°C) should germ inate
in two weeks and flower in their second
year. Pink-flowered cultivars usually
produce mauve offspring. Basal shoots
work bes1 as cuuings (see p.156), but
stems can be used if material is scarce.
Root the cuuings in pots or a moss roll
(see p.155) in a closed case or on a mist
bench; pot and grow on in a cold frame.
Clumps may be carefully lifted and
divided (see p.148). Cut back the foliage
on divisions 10 reduce moisture loss.
SEEDS
Aubretias arc easil)' raised from seeds
(see p.151), but the seedlings wiU vary.
CUTTINGS
Take ripewood cuuings when the
shoots are well matured by the sum,ner TAKING RIPEWOOD CUTTINGS OF AU8RETIA
sun. Ripe shoots are briule: use a scalpel Sclat srmng. nonflowering shoots, no longer
or craft knife when preparing cuu ings 1ha11 2i11 (5011), preferably half rhis le11g1h. li·i111
(see rig/11). Do not pull off the lower 1/,e lowe, half of each cu11i11g of lcc,ves. c1111111g
leaves, or the s tem ma)' break; instead, uph'ard close to the sum. Mahe an angJcd c 11i
use a sharp blade, culling upward. at the l>a.s<· below a node. RcmO\'f any yeUow
Aherna1ivel)', cut back foliage after lcnves. wl1id1 may r'Ot.from rhc roscue.

OTHER PERENNIALS
A NH 1
· 0NOPSIS MAC ROPH, LL.A
Divide with care in spring (see
p.148) U-Sow seeds (1>.151) as
soon as ripe: winter cold needed
to break dormanC)': germination
can be erra1ic Ui-
ANGELICA Sow seeds (see p. 151)
in spring a1 50°F (10°C) i,
ANIGOZANTMOS Divide in warm
areas in autumn, or in spring
(see p.148) 1- Sow seeds (p.J51)
when ripe or in spring al 59°F
(I 5°C) ; germinaiion can be slow,
ho, waier ( p. 152) or smoke
Lreatmcnt (p.20) helps u.
ANTENN.,RIA Divide (see p.148)
after flowering or delach roo1ed
plamle1s: pot small pieces
( p. 149) 1- Sow seeds (p.151 )
when ripe or in spri ng. in griny
soi l mix : keep in a cold [rame ,.
Do not overwater.
ANTHE"ts Sow seeds (sec p.151)
in spring at 59°F (15°C) 1- Take
semi-ripe cuttings o f herbaceous
1ypes (p.154) in early au1umn 1,
Take basal stem cuni ngs of
alpines (p. J66) in late spring or
early summer!.
ANTHERICUM Divide (see p.148)
after Oowering , . Seeds (p.151)
in spring a1 50°F (10°C) i-
A1'THR1scus As for A11gelica ,.
Sec also Chervil. p.290.
A1'TIRRt-llNUM Sow seeds (see
/J.151) in autumn or spring at
59°F (15°C) , . Sohwood cunings
in late spring: semi-ripe cuttings
in early autumn ( p.154) 1-
AQUILECIA Sow seeds [resh in
hue spring or early summer
(p.151) at so·F (to•c): sow old
seeds in aummn and expose to
winter cold: gather seeds from
isolated plants; hybridizes
and self-sows very
[reely ,. Take basal
s,em cuuings (1>. I 66)
in early summer of
choice alpines U-
ARABIS Divide in
autumn or early spring
(sec p. 167) or dc1ach
rooted pieces of
mat. formi ng
species 1, Sow
seeds (p. I 64) in autumn, or
in spring at 50°F ( 10°C) i-
Root stem-tip cuttings
(p.166) in summer 1-
ARCTOTIS (syn. Vcnidioarclotis,
Ve11i<li11m ) As Gaza11i<1 (p.197) 1-
ARENARIA As for Arobis l-
ARISARUt,.·1 Divide rhizomes (see
,,.149) as plan is die down in
summer!, Sow seeds as soon as
ripe ( p.151 ) a1 59°F ( 15°C) !-
ARtSTEA De,ach rooted leaf fans
(p.149) in early spring 1- Seeds
(p. l 51 ) in spring at 6 I0F (I 6°C) i-
ARNICA As Anrhericum.
ARTHROPODIUM Divide in spring
(see p.148) U- Sow seeds (p.151 )
in spring at 50°F (J 0°C) l-
ARUNCcS Divide (sec p. 148) in
spring 1- Seeds ( p.151 ) in
au1um11 at 50°F (J0°C) U,
ASARINA PROCUMBENS
(syn. Antirrl1inum
asarina) Sow
seeds in spring
(seep.15/) at 16°C
(61°F) !. Take
stem-tip cuuings
( p.154) in spring
or summer u.
Ase, 1;r1ns Sow
seeds (seep.151)
AQUILfGIA ·CRIMSON STAR'
m spring a, 59°F ( I 5°C) , .
,\>PAR,1c;us Divide (see p.148)
when dormant!. Extract seeds
from berries and sow (pp.151-2)
in spring ai 59°F (15°C) ,. (Sec
als1> Vegetables, p.294.)
ASPHOOtu,t Divide carefully
after nowering (see p.148) ;
divisions taken at other times
are prone to ro1 U-Sow seeds in
spring (p.151) al 59°F (15°C) 1-
AsPHODCLLIS As for Aspl10deli11e.
Asr11.ae Divide carefull)' in early
spring (see p.1-18) U- Seeds have
short viability: sow (p.151 ) in
autumn: expose 10 wimer cold U ,
ASTRANTIA Divide in spring (see
p. J48) 1- Seeds (1>.151 ) when ripe
or in spring "' 50°F (I 0°C) l-
AuRtNtA Sow seeds (see p.151) in
autumn or early spring at 50°F
(10°C)i. Take 11/- 2in (3-Scm)
greenwood Slcm-tip cuttings
(p. / 66) in late summer l-
AZORELL, Sow seeds (see p.164)
in griuy soil mix when ripe or
in autumn, or in early spring at
50°F ( J0°C) 1- Take roseue
cu11ings c,,.166) in spring or
summer,u.

189
A-Z OF PERENNIALS
B EGONIA
DMSION m earl)' sprmg !
Seeos when ripe or m
spring U
STEM CUTTINGS in auuunn
or i1, ~pnng 1
LEAF CUTTINGS from late
,pring lO earl} !.-Ummcr,
Bcgomn Most perennials in lhis
·ori::mdy' genus are lender.
Rhizomalous begonias, such as Begonia
bowerae. B. manicara, and 8. re.x may be
divided. The popu lar Se,nperOorens
begonias used as bedding are usually
grown fro,n seeds, ahhough basal Slem
cuni ngs can be taken. Leaf cuuings rool
readily fro111 8 . rex, 8. masoniana, and
many olhers, possibly all species and
forms. For tuberous begonias, see p.262.
D IVISION
Divide rhizomes (see p.149) into seclions
wilh al leasl one growing lip and pol
individuall)'- Older, leaness portions of
rhizome may be cul into 2in (5cm)
pieces and lined out in trays of rooting
medium. Keep moist al 70°F (21°C).
When shoots and roots have formed,
usually after six weeks, they can be
poued singly and the 1emperalure
TAKING LEAF CUTTINGS FROM BEGONIAS
Ecuh ott
IS ¼in
(J cm) long
Sdc<1 a fully grown, lte<1lthy leaf (here of
1 " Rex begoni<1). Using a sharp knife, cw off
rite leaf swll, and rhen s1raighr across each of
rhe main \fins 011 111c undcrsi<lc of rhc leaf.
Pull ,,1cu11lr1:.
<1pa1 r ~c!UI)
\Viren the pla111le1s are large e11011glr to
3 handle, lifr rite leaf <tml cmefnlly scparnte
the pl<mtleu. Take ct1re 10 preserve some
medium around rhe mors of cacl, one. Pot
indi"iclually inro Jin (8011) pots of soilless
potting mix to grow 011. IVC11cr and label.
190
reduced 10 59°F ( l5°C). Planls should
reach a good size in six months.
SEEDS
In cool climates, sow the fine seeds (see
/>.151) at 70°F ( 21 °C) in spring; in wann
regions, sow also when seeds ripen . Do
nol cover the seeds - light is required
for germination. The seedlings appear
afler 2-3 weeks and are lransplan1ed as
soon as they are large enough 10 handle.
B. sempe1jlore11s should nower in 3-6
months; other species may lake a year.
C UTTINGS
Stem-lip cu uings (see p.154) can be
laken from all stem-forming begonias.
They should root within a ,nonlh al
70°F (21 °C). Cuuings from most or
lhe winler-Oowering begonias are best
laken in spring.
Leaf cu ttings (see p.15i) are prepared
" 'ilh a portion of slalk, l in (2.5cm) long,
inserted into the soil mix so lhat the
leaf rests on the surface. At 70°F (21°C),
plantlets form in about six weeks. To
produce more planls from lhe leaf, cu t
lhrough the main veins or cul the leaves
into small squares (see below).
Pm) o,•n ,•('in\ kffp Jht·m
111 co11wcr wuh ~oil mu:
Pin the Jeaf, cur side down, onro die sw face
2 ofa tray of rooting medium or ,•em1ic1,li,e;
label. Keep humid ar 70"F (2J'C) until plm11lets
develop, usually in two montlis.
SQUARE LEAF CUTTINGS
Suure. (uuings wi1J1
pins O\'t'r \IC"ins
IC,. . '111 ~r~ LS \ may be raised from seeds, surface-sown
Q.. ~ r:t. ~ I
1:1 , .-, · - . ~, .
Cut squares, about Jin (2.5cm) across, from
a large, lrealrl,y leaf. Eaclr square must have
a main "ein running d1rougl1 it. Pin rht m,
veins downward, into a tray of rooting
medium and treat as in steps 2 and 3 (left).
B ERGENIA ELEPHANT'S EARS
01v1s10N in au1umn or ~rnng 1
SEEDS in ,pnng tl
C UTTINGS n1 :tutumn or ,prmg i
Older plants of lhese perennials fonn
a mass of woody, creeping rhizomes,
often on the soil surface, wi lh leaves
only at lheir lips. If just a few plants
are required , these may be detached.
For large numbers of new plan ls, take
rhizome cu uings.
DIVISION
After flowering or in aulumn, lifl and
sever new planllets from the ends of
the long rhi zomes (see p.149 and below)
and replanl , leaving lhe parent in place.
Plantlets nower the next year.
SEEDS
Sow seeds (see p.15 1) in trays. They will
germinate, ,vithoul extra heat , in 3-6
weeks. New planls nower afler two years.
OtVll)tNC BERCENtAS
Divide plC1nrs in early spr'it1g, cnsur'ing thm each
pircc has a good rosette of lca\'cs tmcl cd,out 6in
(1.5cm) of rhizome with roors. Trim off larger
leaves to reduce ware.- loss. Replanr deeper tlr,111
before if the porenr rhf:;:omcs were on the swfau.
C ALCEOLARIA
SLIPPER FLOIVER
SEEDS in spring and summer!!
CUTTINGS in earl)' au1unm o r :,.prmg U
Perennials in this genus are sometimes
grown (for annuals. see p.221 ). Many
species, and modern cull ivars of
Calceolaria integrifolia (S)'" · C. 111gosa),
at 61°F ( 16°C) 10 germinale in lWO
weeks (see p.151 , or for alpines p.165).
Seedlings need cool, airy conditions.
Take sem i-ripe heel cuuings (see
p.154, or for alpines p.166) in autumn
and overwinter with cold pro1eclion,
or overwinter stock plants lO supply
cu uings in spring. The)' rOOl easi ly in
two weeks. Plant out in late spring.
Detach individual roseue cuuings
(see p.166) from alpine species in
sum,ner and root in a grill)' soil mix.
 BE GONIA - CATANANCHE

BERGENIA RHIZOME CUTTINGS C AMPANULA BELLfLOIVER

Cut oltlel' pieces of l«gless rl1izome into
1 1½-2i11 (4-5cm) sections, each with several
donnanr buds. 1h111 any l011g roors. lia!{-b11ry
rhr sations. buds uppcmwst, about 2in (5cm)
np<rrl in rmys in moist 1,crJire Of soil mix. Label.
Keep rhe cuuings at a l1111nid 70"F (2 1°C)
2 in a Ii cared closed cas,·. Afr er I0-12 wcel1s.
pla11rle1s (here of 8. cordifolia) sl1011ld hC1vc
rooted. Pot singly or line our in ct mtrsc,y bed.
CUTTINGS
vVhe n dividing Bergenia, cut the
re maining, older pans of the rhizomes,
which are devoid of leaves, into sections.
Place in trays of soil mix or perlite with
the ir upper surfaces exposed (see above).
After watering, place th em in a hea ted
closed case or cover with a sheet of
plastic or glass to prevent dehydration.
Keep shaded at 70°F (21 °) to root. The
new plants can be planted out in s pring.
Expect nowe ring within 12-24 mo nths.
OMSION Ill early :IUIumn Or
in spring i
Seeos m autumn or spring 1
CUTTINGS m fotc spring or in
early summer U
The perennials in this
genus include alpines
C,un1xm1,la as we11 as sturdy
rai,,rri herbaceous p lants.
Some s maller types, s uch as Caml'a1111la
rotunclifolia, sel f-sow invasively and are
a read)' source of divisions and cuttings.
DIVISION
Divide 1he fibrous or woody c rowns (see
f' ,148) to increase cuhivars and good
forms. Self-rooted s hoolS or plantlets
on runners ma)' be de tach ed from the
fringes of many Cam,,anula, especial!)'
the alpine species (see p.167) , without
lifting the parent plant. Keep p otted
sections in a s h eltered place to establish.
S EEDS
Sow 1he fine seeds thinly (see p.152) and
cover lightly. Spring-sown seeds s hou ld
C ANNA
0 MSION in ~pring l
SEEDS 111 ,pring IU
These tender plants must b e lifted to
overwinter dry under cover in cold
climates. Divid e the rhizomes (see p.149)
and start them into growth at 61 °C
( 16°C) for nowe rs in the sa1ne seaso n.
File or ho t-water treat the seeds to break
thei r seed-coat dormancy before sowing
them. Sow the seeds (see f'.151) at 70°F
(21°C). Seed-raised plants usually Dower
in their second year.
be kept at 60°F (15.5°C); if sown in
autun1n , pots or trays of seeds may
be placed in a cold frame. Plant out
seed lings of more robus t perennials in
the sum mer or autumn of the first year.
Overwi nter seed lings of smaller alpines
(see f'. 164) in thei r contain ers and pot
them in the spring. Sow C. 1>Jl'a111iclalis
and C. medium as biennials (see f',221).
C UTTINGS
Nearly all alpine species may be grown
from basal stem cuttings (see p.1 66),
inserted in grill)' soil mix , pre ferably in
la1e spring. Roots s hould form, without
bottom heat, in 2-3 weeks. Take stem -
lip c uttings of herbaceous species (see
p.1 54 ) from new ·growth afte r nowering.
Take root c uttings (see f' .158) from
C. glomerma in winter.
A LPINE BELLFLO\VER CUTTING
Rosette cuttings abow ¼in
( I cm) long may be talle11 from
111a11y alpinr bclljlowers (/1c11' of
Campanula cochltariifolia).
C ARDAMINE BlTTERC RESS
DIVISION afler Oowcring or in early autumn ,
SEEDS whc1, ripe or 111 t:ul>' spring I
CUTTINGS in e:uly ,prin~ U
Many of the perennials (5)'11. Demaria) in
this genus have fragile rhizomes: divide
with care; any fragments can be potted.
Sow seeds (see p.151) at 50°F (l0°C);
keep rhizomatous seedlings in their pots
for a year. Weighting a leaf of C. f'l'CUensis
or its cultivars onto soil may induce a
plantlet to form; this s pecies also forms
bulbils (see p.26) below o r at soil level.

OTHER PERENNIALS
BElo\MCANDA Divide (sec p.148)
in spring j. Sow seeds (p.15 J) in
Spring at 59°F ( I 5°C) j.
BELLIS Divide cuhivars after
flowering (see 11.148) ,. Sow
seeds (p.15 /) for spring bedding
in midsumme r i.
81·RIOLONtA Seeds (see 11.151) in
spring at 70°F (21 •c) j. Stem-tip
cu11ings (11.154) in spring j.
81otN~ Sow seeds (sec p.151) in
spring at 59°F ( 15°C)j. Take
s1em-tip cuu ings (11.15'1) in
spring or in carlr autumn 1.
BLANoroRD1A Separate clumps
in spring or after nowering (sec
p. 149) a. Sow fresh seeds (11.15 J)
in spring at 59°F (l 5°C) ,.
BoLAx Detach rooted o ffse1s (see
,,. 166)a. Sow ripe seeds (p.16'1);
keep in a cold frame U.
Bot.TONIA Divide (see ,,. 148) in
early spring j . Sow seeds (p.151)
in spring at 59°F ( 15°C) j .
BoRAGO Divide 8.1,yg111C1ea (sec
p.148) j. (Annuals. see p.291.)
DOYKtNtA Divide (sec p.167) in
late winter o r early springU,
Sow seeds (p.164) in spring;
keep in a cold frame a.
BRACH\SCOME (syn. 8rnd1yco111e)
Sow seeds (see p.164) in s pring
a1 64°F ( 18°C); few viable seeds
are produced j. Take basal stem
cuuings (p.166) in spring,.
BRUNNER.t\ Divide aher flowering
(see p.149) •· Seeds (p.151 ) in
spring at 500F ( I 0°C) j. Take
root cuuings (p.158) in winter l,
BULBINE As for Bclwncan<la !,
But a1NtLLA Divide (sec p.148) in
au1umn j . Sow ripe seeds (f>. 151 );
keep in a cold fra me,.
BL:rtnti.-\LML'M Divide in spring
(sec p.148) !- Sow seeds in spring
(p. 151 ) a, 50°F ( IOOC) i·
Bt PLEl:RUM As for Buphdwlmum .
CALAMINTltA Divide in spring
(p.148) o r lift rooted stems j.
Seeds (p. 151) in spring at 50°F
(10°C) l, Take semi -ripe cuu ings
(p. 154) in early au1u mn ,.
CAl.ANDRINtA Sow seeds in
spring at 59°F (l 5°C), as fo r
Lewisia (see 11.202) U, Sow seeds
of alpines in aummn (p.164);
ovcrwimcr in sheltered place to
break dormancy fo r best results 1,
Root roseHe c uuings o f alpines
(p.166) in sand in summer;
sui table shoots ma)' be few U,
CAta\THtA Divide (seep. I 49) in
late spring!. Sow seeds (p.151 )
in spring at 70°F ( 21 °C) j.
CAt USIA (S)'O. Phyodi11a) Divide
(sec fl. 148) in spring•· Seeds in
spring (p.1 51) ar 63°F ( I 7°C) j.
CAREX Divide in spring (see
11,148); pot or grow on single
rooted shoots in nursery bed
(p.149) j . Sow shon-lived seeds
(p.151) in au1umn if possible, or
in spring at 59°F ( I 5°C) 11,
CARLINA Sow seeds (see ,,.151)
in spring at 59°F (15°C) l-
CATAZ..ANCHE Oi\lide in mid-
spring (see 11.148) l- Sow seeds
(11.15 I) in spring at 59°F (15°C)
jj. Take root tunings (p.1 58) in
w inter ti.

191
A-Z OF PERENNIALS

CELMISIA CONVALLARIA LILY-OF-THE-VALLEY

NEW ZEALAND DAISY DMStON m spnng or
rhizomes into rooted portions, each
Seeos when npc or 1n au1t11nn U
~-
...••
in amumn l
&U with a bud, and replant them al once.

r· .. .,_
CUTTINGS m I.lie: spnng JU SEEDS in altlumn
For a large number or planLS, treat
Perennials in this genus are self-sterile: ,.,. /
The thin, creeping rhizomes as cuttings (sec below).
they usually set seeds on ly if several ~rhizom es of Convallaria Plants rapidly establish 10 nower the
f • majalis can be invasive.
planLS grow together. Sow seeds (see
p.164) at 50°C ( l0°C). Keep moist and
. ..,,:, They are best divided
following spring.
PlanLS are rarelr seed-raised because
semi-shaded until established . Take Comc,/1"''" (see p.149) after it is so slow. First ex tract the seeds by
rosette cuttings (see p.166); some species "''lj"'" flowering, although macerating the berries (see ,,.151).
root well in pumice (see p.167). It may they tolerate division at any time when Germination outdoors takes at least two
be possible to detach rooted roseues not in active growth. Pull apart the winters; planLS nower after three years.
fro,n larger planLS: treat as cuttings until
established. Divisions or cuttings must RH IZOME CUTTINGS
never dry out: mist them dail)' but do Cut rlii:::omrs inw 2-Jin
not overwater, which leads to rot.
Roi
blcidu11i11g
rl1i::omr
f\-"''"
shoo,
(5-Bcni ) )C<'.lic>n), each ,dth
roo,s <md some clomumr
IJ11cls. Di sand m,y diseased
'
CHLOROPHYTUM Of wct1li M'Clio11s. 1ie<U them

SPIDER PLANT
PLANTLETS al an> 11me j
DIVISION in Spnnp,.
Variegated forms of Chlo,-ophyrum
comosum are the most com,nonly grown
of these tender plants. Their attraction
lies in the plantlets that often develop
al the ends of old nowering stems.
PlantleLS develop immature roots while
still on the plant and may be detached
and potted. If unrooted, remove with a
portion or stem, insert into pols of soil
mix and keep at 59°F (15°C); they
should root within ten days.
Division (see p.150) produces mature
plants more quickly. Grow on the new
divisions at 59°F (15°C).
CHRYSANTHEMUM
OMSION in spring!
SEEDS m ,pring !
CUTTINGS in :,pnng 1
Of the large-flowered
perennials, or norist's
chrysanthemums,
in this genus (syn.
Ch,ysa111h,m11m De11dra111hema), the
'Ysonne Arnaud· Korean t)•pes are fairly
hardy; most others are much less hardy.
(For annuals, see p.222.) It may be
possible 10 pull apart the rooLStock (stool)
of hardier t)'pes (see p.148). If replanted
in fertile soil, divisions should nower in
the same season with renewed vigor.
Sow seeds (see p.152) of cush ion
and cascade chrysanthe,nums at 59°F
( 15°C). Seeds germinate in two weeks,
and plants flower in the same year.
Take 2-3in ( 5-8c,n) basal s1en1
cuttings from garden planLS (see pp.156--7)
or, for larger numbers, from stock plants
overwintered in poLS under cover. Root in
trays of rooting medium at 50°F (I0°C).
Pot rooted cuttings and grow on at 50°F
(10°C). Plant out or pot on in late
spring 10 flower the same year.
llE/\LTH\' DI SEASED
RlllZO~IE SECTION SECTION
CORYDALIS
DIVISION 1n ,pnng or m <·Ml) autumn
Seeos m c,1rly :tummcr or m ;uuumn 1
Many of the perennials in this genus
(syn. Pse11dofwnaria) arc quite hardy, but
some of the fibrous-rooted types, such
as Co,ydalis tome111ella, are 1nore suited
to alpine house conditions. Rhizomatous
types such as C. cl1eila111hifolia can be
divided; others are best grown from seeds.
(For 111bero11s species, see p.264.)
DIVI SION
Lift and divide dormant rhizomes (see
p.1 49) carefully The steins are sappy and
fragile and easily damaged by handling.
Replant lar,te divisions immediately. Pot
small pieces Lo plant out the next year.
SEEDS
Sow seeds (see p.151 ) as soon as they are
ripe or in autumn: older seeds have poor
viability. Allow them to germinate in a
D ELPHINIUM
D IVISION 1n :..pnng 1
Seeos m )pnng,
Cum>1GS m lotc spring!
The easiest wa)' to
propagate perennial
delphiniu1ns is by
division. Several or the
Drlphinoum cultivars do come fairly
'Fanfare' true from seeds·• others
)ield variable o!Tspring that may still be or
value. Most delphiniums are quite hardy.
Divide mature clumps into 2-4
pieces , discarding the woody center (see
p. J 48). Divisions nower the same year.
as for 111111 mo, cuttings
(see p. 158). T/1<· cuuings
shoulcl de,cfop shams in
sp,ing and ma_) bt~ plcmtcd
\VEAK GRO\\'N-ON
SECTION 0111 in CllffW1UI.
U sheltered place outdoors. Transplant
seedlings into small poLS when large
enough to handle. Many self-sow
readily; transplant seedlings carerull)'.
CORYDALIS SEEDLINGS
Fresl, seeds slwuld gcrminaic in a few wee/is
at abour 59°F (l 5°C), b111 old seeds tencl ro
germinaic slowly or en-aricallr. Keep"" ,,or
for
two ye<1f'S wallow all 1l1e seedlings ro come up.
Sow seeds in poLS (see p. 151) at 55°F
(13°C). Seedlings appear in 14 days,
although old seeds germinate erratically.
New plants may nower in 18 months.
Take basal stem cutLings from 3in
(Bc,n) long shoots (see p.156); these new
shoots should not yet be hollow, one or
the factors that make cuttings prone 10
rot. Insert in rooting mediu1n (some
growers put a la)•er of fine sand in the
bottom of the hole) or in perlite (see
p.156). Keep at 59°F ( l5°C) and pol
when rooted, after about ten days. Plant
out in nursery beds in early summer.

192
 CATHARA NTHUS - O IA NT HUS

D IANTHUS CARNATION, PINK

0 1v1stON in spr-ing or in autumn U
Seeos m spring. early summer or in aulumn !
CUTTINGS from mid.. lO late summer!
LAYERING from mid· to late summer U
The p erennial s pecies are 1nostly quite
hardy and are increased in various wa)'S
according to the l)'pe. The)' can be
subj ects for hybridizing (see p.21). (See
also Annuals and Biennials, p.223.)
DI VISION
Some spreading and mat-forming s pecies
and cultivars root naturally as they grow.
These can be divided after Oowering
into large portions (see p.1 48), each with
up 10 20 shoots and some roots. Th e
new pla nts will nower the n ext )'ear.
SEEDS
Sow seeds (see p.151) of pinks gro,vn
for summer bedding, su ch as Chinese or
Indian pinks (D. chinensis) in spring at
59°F ( 15°C) to germinate within ten
days. Sow sweet \.Villiams (D. harba1us)
as biennials (see p.219) in earl)' summ er;
trans plant in midautu1nn. Sow alpines in
pots in cold frames in autumn or spring.
A few species self-sow.
CUTTINGS
Semi-ripe cuttings ma)' be taken from
all Dianthus (see belo1v, left) , especiall)'
small and alpine species. A hormo ne
rooti ng compound is helpful. Insert in
pots of rooting medium in a frame or
c losed case; keep moist but not w et.
Rooting takes 2-3 weeks at 59°F ( 15°C) ;
plants w ill n ower the n ex1 )'ear.
LAYERING
Carnation stems m a)' be la)'ered (below)
into the soil or a plunged pot of rooting
medium and sh ould root in eight weeks.

CUTTINGS FRO M PI NKS LAYE RING BORDER CARNATIONS

Holcl a nonflowering shoot near the base and
pull out rite rip. It should brcal, easily at a node,
gi,•ing a curring 3-4in (8-IOcm) long wir/1 3-4
P<•irs of leaves. Remove rite lowcsr /Xiii' (see inse1).
Clioose a srmng, uonflowe,ing shom. Strip
1 rite lcm·es from all cxccpr rhe rop 3in (8cm)
of rhc srem. M/lkc ,r Jin (2.5cm) sloping rut j usr
below rhe leaves to fonn a tongue (see inset).
Prepare the soil below rhc cur wirl, equal
2 pm1s of coarse scmd and moist peat. Gently
bend the srem so rhm 1he rougue Ol'ens out, push
it into die soil. cmd pin securely in pierce.

OTHER PERENNIALS
C.,THARANTHUS Sow seeds (sec
p. l 5 J ) in spring a1 700F (21 °C) , .
Semi-ripe cuuings (p.J.54) in
summer and early au1um n l -
CENTAUREA Divide in spring (see
p.l 48) l- Sow seeds (p.151 ) in
spring at SOOF (10°C) l , Take
roo1 cunings (p.J58) in winier j.
CENTRANTHUS Divide in spring
(see p.148) l, Sow seeds (p.J5J)
in spring a1 S0°F ( l0°C) l,
CERASTIUM Divide in spring (sec
p.148) l, Seeds in autumn or
spring (p.151) a1 59°F (15°C) l,
Take soft s1em-1ip cuuings
(p.154) in early summer U ,
CHAMAEMELUM Divide in early
autumn or spring (sec ,,.148) l-
Sow seeds (p.151) .in spring a1
so•Foo•c> ,.
CHELONE Divide in spring (see
p.148) j. Sow seeds (p. 151) in
spring a1 59°F (15°C) j. Take
softwood stem~tip c uuings
(p. 154) in lalC spring l ,
CHIASTOPil'itLUM OPPOSITIFOLIUM
(syn . Cotyledon simplicifolia)
Divide after Oowering or in early
spring (see p. I48) j. Sow seeds
(1>. 151 ) in autumn in pots: keep
in a cold frame j . Softwood
cuuings (p. 154 ) early summer j.
CHR'l'SOGONUM \IIRGINlr\NUM As
for Cc111ra111hus l,
C IMICIFUGA Divide in spring (see
p.148). especially colored-leaf
forms j. Sow seeds (p. 15l) in
autumn: germinates poorly 1u.
C1RSllJM As for Ccnrranthus j .
Cu\YTONIA Sow seeds (sec p. 151)
as soon as ripe, in a shaded cold
frame j . Some self-sow.
CuTORIA Sow seeds in spring
afler hot·water 1reaunen1 (see
pp. 151-2) at 700F (21°C) ,. Take
semi-ripe cuuings ( p.154) in
late summer j .
CLJVI,\ Divide if not in nowcr
(sec ,,. I 48) j . Sow seeds (p.151)
in spring at 70°F (21°C) j.
CODONOrs1s Sow fine seeds
thinly (see p.151) when ripe or
in autumn, in a cold frame; leave
seedlings in pois for a year. Most
nower in the third year,.
COLE\,'S See Solenosremon (p.209).
CONVOLVULVS Divide alpines
(see 11.167) in spring j. Sow seeds
(1>. 151) in spring at 59°F ( 15°C)
j. Take semi-ripe cuuings (p. J55)
in early autumn j. Take heel
cuuings in sumrner from alpines
(p. J66) such as C. bolsslcrl j.
CoREOPSIS Divide in spring (see
p.148) j. Sow seeds (1>. I 5 J) in
spring at S0°F ( I0°C) j . Basal
stem cuuings (p. l.56) in spring j.
COSTUS Divide in spri ng (see
p.149) ,. Sow seeds (p. 151) in
spring at 70°F (2 1°C) j. In late
wi1uer before growlh starts, cut
rhizomes into 2in (5cm)
pieces as Be1ge11ia (1>. 19 J) j .
CRAMDE Seeds (see
p. J5 I ) in spring
a, 50°F
(JOOC) or
outdoors j.
Take root cullings in late
autumn (sec p.158 and p.299) j .
CRASPEDIA Divide in spring (sec
p.148) l- Seeds of alpines in early
spring (p. 15 I) at 50°F (I0°C):
seeds orten have low viability j.
CTENA, THE As for Marmua (sec
p.202) ,.
CURCUMA As Mamnla (p.202) .
Cl'l<OGLOSSUM Divide in spring
(sec p.148) , . Sow seeds (p. l 5 l)
in spring al 59°F (I 5°C) ,.
DARMERA (syn. Peltlpl1yll11m)
Divide rhizomes afler Oowcring
(see p. I 49) U- Sow seeds (p. / 51)
in spring at 50°F (10°C) j .
OIANELL\ Divide rhizomes (see
,,. /49) in midspring j .
Sow cleaned seeds
in spring
(pp. 15 1-2)
al 59°F
(1s•c) ,.
CATHARANTHUS
ROSEVS 'PACIFICA PUNCH'

193
A-Z OF PERENNIALS

DIASCIA TIVINSPUR DIASClA SOFTWOOD CUTT! GS D IONYSIA

SEEOS when npt· or 111 ,pnng ! SEEDS ,n ... ummer or in \\illlc.-r U
CUTTINGS m ... pnng or m CumNGS from lnh' ...prnlt 10 m1d-.ummtr U&
late summer 1
Apart rrom Dio11ysa i11vol11craia and
Named h)•brids or D. reucrioi<les, all species need two types
perennial Diascia are of plan t (as [or primroses), pin- and
most common l)' grown. thrum-eyed (sec p.206), to be grown to
Plants are selr-sterile produce seeds. Seeds o[ tight "cushion"
o""'"' and do not produce forms lie deep with in the leaf-rosettes:
rordm,1 seeds un less n1ore than gather them in summ er using tweezers.
one c lone or species is grown. Sow seeds Sow seeds in a very grill)' soi l mix
(see p.151) at 59°F (l5°C) to germinate IIOLLO\\' LEAi' :>:ODE (see p.164) the moment they are ripe or
within ten days. Plants Oower in the STtM SEALS in winter, then keep in an a ir)', slightly
same year. Deliberate h)•bridization (sec [XPOS[I) STEM shaded cold frame 10 germinate.
p.21) can have interesting results. Transplant seedlings into a mix of one
Take so[twood stem-tip cuttings INTl:R:>:ODAL 'IQl)A I part peat, one pan soil, and three parts
(sec right and p.154) in spring, or from ClJTTl:-IG CUTTING fine grit. To avoid wett ing the plants,
the regrowth on plants trimmed a[ter Dia:,da cuttings llff bf)f wlu.·11 in sp, iug cH Jrc>m immerse the pots up to their rims in
Oowering. In cold climates, semi-ripe n·gm\irh on ,,rnnt',t stoclt plants: mlu·rh'ise. 1l1c water, then allow to drain. Plants Oower
c uttings taken late in the season need \rem, trml ,o ht~hollow ,mcl mr whrn i11scnrd in after their second season.
protection over winter until late spring a moting mc,lfum. llollow Sfflll) 111<1y )Un h cw Take single rosette cutti ngs, ¼- Xin
in the [ollowing year. rnc>t rJ wm Him tach c111ti11g)ust lJt'low ti nodr. (5-l5m1n) long (sec pp.166-7); insen in
crushed pumice or honicul1ural or rine
sand. Keep in a partly shaded cloche or
D IEFFENBACHIA Du,wa CANE cold [rame. Avoid watering until rooted.
C UTTINGS 111 ,pnng U DIEFFE BACHIA CUTTINGS
lAYEA1NG Ill -.1mng U
ECHINOPS GLOBE TlllSTLE
These tender perennials are usually
OMSION Ill ...pring'
increased from cuttings and arc probably Seeos m ...pr-.n)l, &
the only herbaceous perennials that may CUTTINGS m h1h: nu1umn &
,
be air layered. \Vash )'Our hands a[ter
handling du,nb canes or wear gloves: ' The perennials in this genus are easr to
the sap can cause an allergic reaction. raise from seeds; aherna1ivcl)', propagate
named cu ltivars br division or from
CUTTINGS root cuttings.
Plants often become s traggly with age, Divide the woody clu,nps using a
but basal sideshoots and the leaf)' stem s harp knife or a s pade (sec p.148). Plants
tips can be taken as cuttings (see p.154). will Oowcr the same summer.
Insert in pots or rooting medium in a Sow seeds (sec p.151) of species in
closed case at 70°F (2 l °C}. These You can use all rhr wpgrow1l1 from pots and keep at 59°F (15°C). Expect
cuttings should root within three weeks. 1 a sing,,· pl<lnt (here• Dicffcnbachia germination in two weeks. Transplan t
If covered with a plastic bag and le[t on scguinc). rcmo,•ing sickshoo1s ,md seedl ings singly into pots; line out in a
a windowsill in a warm room, cuttings cutting thwugJ1 the mccin src,u ju)f nurser)' bed in late spring. Seed-raised
will root, but in about six weeks. You alJm,,• du· lowt·sr nod(:'. plants should Oower in the second )'ea r.
can take stem c uttings, too, c utti ng the Root cuni ,1gs (see p.158) may be
main stem in to sections, each with a 1;·im <111 lnll du· WI' taken fro,n all species and cuhivars.
single node (see right). New shoots
should appear within six weeks. The
2 2-J 1cm cs from mn
siclrslwms mul J10m du_·
Choose pencil-thick roots and cut into
2-3in (5--8cm) sections.
severed main s tem or the parent plan t main sffm. Cw
shou ld a lso produce [rcsh growth, as tJu• 111(1111 SlrlJI
long as the lowest bud is retained. i11w 2i11 (5,111)
:,t·rrfom,, umin~ each
LAYERING JUSf bdow a nodl'.
Air larering (see Shrubs and Cl imbing
SttnHip
Plants, p.105) can be used to root shoots P,qmrc )Olltf J>Ob
whi le still on the plant. Remove anr
leaves with their stalks 4-6in (l0-l5cm)
5tflll ,uurng
3 hith nwisr.finucd
woring ,ucdium.
below the stem tip. Make two parallel lllsi'H die· stcm·llp
cuts ¼in (5mm ) apart around the cutrings sn llwt
stem; peel off the ring or skin. Slip a the fct1vrs rcsr jusr
clear plastic bag, with the botton1 cut llbm•<· the s1ufaa.
open, over the stem, then tie or tape Ptcss the srcm
one end below the wound. Pack the bag cutthigs ho,iz<mtall.,•
with moist sphagnu,n moss, then secure inw 1li1· medium. b1Uls GATlltRING GLOllE I IIISTLI, SEI.OS
above the moss. A[ter three months or uppc,mosr. 011c·1hi11t \Vhcu rhf scrdhcocls arc cli)' cmd brc>wn. OH off
so, roots should be visible. Sever the burirtl. Keep rJu· 1Ju·Jlowcnng strmi ,md picl, off tlk Scl'cl~ for
rooted secti on, then pot to grow on. rootstoclz in i1s l'OL <Irving mul -;rori11g.

194
 DIA SCIA - E RODl UM

EPIMEDIUM BARRENWORT E PISCIA FLAME VIOLET

01V1SION in ..,pnng.
Seeos m spring U
CUTTINGS in winter!
Large clumps of 1hcsc
mos1ly woodland plants
are often divided;
rhizo me cuttings arc
Epimctlmm easier to take fron1
g,,..,dljlonun 'l.1~1rcc· young plan Ls. Seeds
gathered from garden planLS are likcl)'
Lo be hybrids.
DIVISION
After flowering, pull or cul large clumps
into moderate-sized pieces (see p.148).
Divisions flower in 1he following spring.
SEEDS
Only forms of Epimedium davidii , so1ne
forms of E. grcmdiflorwn, and so,ne new
cuhivars are sel f-fertile. Seeds may be set
and gathered if more than one species is
grown. Ripening pods split and drop their
seeds while still green, so watch carefully.
Sow seeds (sec p.15 1) in pols in a cold
frame as soon as ripe 10 germinate in
four weeks, for flowers after three years.
CUTTINGS
Take rhizome sections and treat as root
cu!Lings. Lift a clump and wash off the
soil with a strong je1 of wa1er. Cui off
old leaves. Carefull)' separate individual
rhi zomes; cut these into 2-3in (5-Scm)
DIVISION Ill :,pring and in :-,\llllnlCf.
SEEDS in ~pring 1
poued singl)', and grown on. Rooted
CUTTINGS in early or miclsmnmcr ! plan1le1s will Oower in the same season.
Surface-sow seeds on moss, as for
Al l of these evergreen perennials (syn. Sarracenia (see p.208) at 70°F (21°C).
Alsobia) are tender. The creeping mats Plants may flower in the second season.
of foliage spread by means of rooting, Take softwood stem-tip cuttings from
above-ground s1ems, or stolo ns. nonnowcring shooLS (see p.154) for
Plantlets are produced at the Lips of flowers in the following year. Rooting is
these stolons and can be detached , aided by bottom heat of 70°F (2 L°C).
E REMURUS D ESERT CANDLE, FOXTAIL LILY
0 IVISJON ill !:iUnuntr or in
grow on small crowns; keep them in a
earl) m11umn U
Seeos m ,pnng U s heltered place, pro1ec1ed from severe
cold . They ma)' flower in two years.
Although quite hard),
1he young grow1h of SEEDS
these planLS is often Sow seeds (see p.151 ) 10 germinate al
damaged b)' spring 59°F ( l5°C), or sow in early sum mer
1;,·,11111n« frosts. They have neshy, and place pots in a sheltered place, such
,·ob11,111s thick, but shallow roots as a cold frame . Fresh seeds germinate
that arc very fragile and difficult 10 lift in two weeks, but older seed$ are erratic
without damage. On ly mature clumps of and slower. Plants bloo,n in 3-5 years.
many crowns should be divided .
Slaullaw lwlt Growing lip
DI VISION wfrlc e,wugh IO
lift the wide-spreading roots carefull)' ,~u.011111wdc1tc Crown !>its on
}p1f(l(l QU( 1'1(11$
4
momacl of ,mut
once the leaves have died down . Use
a sharp knife 10 divide the plant into - = I
individual , rooted crowns, and trim
off the dying stems. If any large roots
'.'\ l·'' . /·
'
are damaged, trim them and dust the ·'• ' '·
wounds with fungicide. Replant the ' i•

pieces and trim any overlong fibrous
roots. Lay cuuings on the surface of a
prepared tray; cover with soil ,nix. Keep
in a sheltered place until they have roots
and shoots. Plants Oower in 2-3 years.
crowns immediately (see righr), or lin e
out young cro wns in nursery beds. Place
the starfish like crowns on coarse sand Lo
help prevent rot, especially on heavy
soils. Use deep trays ins1cad of pois 10
REPI.ANTING A OIVIOEO CRQ\\ N
Dig a pl(lnting hole. ,, i<lrr tlum the roots ,uid 6in
(15011) ,leq,. M<1l1r" 2-Jin (5-8cm) mowul of
coan,c ~,md in du.· boucm1. Sir tl,c cww11 cm WI'
so rhm irs growih bud is <H soil k,•d. FiH in.

OTHER PERENNIALS
DICENTR:\ Divide rhizomes in
early spring or early autumn (sec
p.H9). or alpines such as D. C\;mia
when dormant in summer
(p.167) U- Seeds when ripe or in
spring (p. 151 ) al 50°F ( I 0°() U-
DK IAMr-.L~ ALBL.~ (syn.
D.frw<inclla) Divide in spring
(set· 1'· I 48) ,. Seeds (p. 151 ) fresh
or in spring a t 59°1' ( I5°() U-
DILTl:S Divide aflcr flowering
(sec p.149); ma)' be diffic ult to
reestablish U, Seeds in auwmn
<>r spri ng (1>.151) al 59°F (I 5°() !-
D1G1 IAt 1s Surface-sow seeds (see
JJ.151) in spring al 50°F (10°() i-
DIONAEA Divide (see I'· I 48) in
spring U, Sow seeds (p.151) in
spring al 5~°F (12°() as for
SmTaa11ia (p.208); p lants ma)'
take over fivt )'Cars 10 00\'JCr. !,
Take leaf cuuings (p.157) in la1c
spring or early summer: lay leaf
na1 on live. moist sphagnum
moss~ cover with thin larcr or
<:hopped moss; keep humid ;H
;o•F c21 °c> u
DIPLARRIIL!\A Divide :1ftcr
Oowering (set· p. H8) imo leaf
fans with .-oots ,. Sow seeds ar
59°F (15°C) in spring (p.151) i -
Dn1>Ec,n1u), Divide in earl)'
s pring (src ,,.167) ,. Sow seeds
when ripe or in hue summer
(p. 164) ! - If bulblcts form at base
(sre p.26). detach in a u1<111rn, pot
and grow o n 1. Treat single roots
with dormant buds similar!)' U-
DoRO~ICL M Divide (set p.149)
after nowcring ,. Sow seeds at
50°F ( 10°C) in spring (/J, 151 ) !,
DRt\lM Divide- in early !)pring
(see 1'· 148) !- Sets seeds readily;
sow (scr ,,. 164) when ripe or
in early spring; keep in a cold
fra,nc I- Take roseue cu11ings
(p.166) in late summer; they
need good drainage and mar be
rooted in pure ~rnd 1. \ Vatcr
from below.
DROS[R,\ Sow seeds (srr ,,. J5 J)
on two parts peat 10 o ne part
sharp sand as soon as ripe, at
50-55°P (IO-J3°C) ,. Take leaf
cuuings as for Dio1wea ,.
DRl'A> Sow seeds (ser p.151) t he
moment they arc ripe 1. Take
1-2in (2.5-Scm) ripewoocl
cuttings as for A11hricca (sec
p.189) in hue summer; in pots or
trays of frcc·drai ning griuy soil
mix U- L1ycr st ro ng stems in
earl)' summer; cover wi1 h peat
and coarse s.1nd ,.
Ec1-t1NACE.,\Divide in spring (src
p. 1-18) ,. Seeds (p. J51) in spring
a, 59°F (I 5°C) i, Take rool
cu11ings (p.158) in winter U-
EN~ETI Sow seeds as fo r Musa
(see ,,.201) U-
EO\ILC.o, <-1110,Al\.rtl,\ Divide
(sec I'· 1-18) aher flowering i- Sow
seeds (p.151) in spring at 50°F
oo•c> ,.
EPlt.OBIUM (syn. Clwnwcnerion)
Divide in s pring (sec ,,. 1-18) ,.
Divide mat-forming alpines
(11.167) in early spring as growt h
lxgi ns ,. Seeds <,,.J51) in spring
,11 50°F (l o•C) i- Take soft s1cm-
1ip cu11ings (fJ.J5q) in spring,.
ERIGcRON As As1er (see 1,. 189) , .
ER1xus Sow seeds (sre p.164)
w hen ripe or in spring at 50°F
( 10°() ,. Take roSelle cullings
(fJ. 166) in spring,.
ERODIU\I Oividc (see /J, 148) in
spring!. Sow seeds (p.J.51) as
soon as ripe; keep in a cold
rrame ,. Basal stem: cuttings in
spring (p.156) ,. Semi-ripe SlCm·
up cutti ngs (p.154) in summer,.

195
A-Z OF PERENNIALS
ERYNGIUM SEA HOLLY
01v1SION in Spri ng 1
SEEDS in aununn or spring !l
CUTTlNGS in late aununn U
The neshy roots of
most of the perenn ials
in this genus make very
successful cuttings,
Ery11grnm although the plants are
giganieum severely set back by
root disturbance. The short-lived
E. giganreum is monocarpic and can
be increased only fro1n seeds.
DIVISION
Divide the tight, woody crowns just
before growth starts (see p.148) , using
a knife to separate each crown with as
many roots as possible. Line out in a
nursery bed or replant in the border.
They may be s low to establish, but some
species may nower in the same season.
SEEDS
Sow seeds (see pp.151-2) of species in
spring at 50°F (10°C). Seedlings should
emerge in two weeks; new plants nower
in their second year - or third year for
some species. Freshly gathered seeds
germinate more evenly than old seeds:
sow as soon as they are ripe, in autumn,
10 germinate in the following spring.
CUTTINGS
Take cuuings from thick roots (see
p.158), cut into 2-3in (5-Sctn) pieces.
Lay horizontally on trays of soil mix
and cover with more mix. Keep above
freezing over winter. When shoots and
fibrous roots appear in the following
spring, pot the new plants singly to
nower in their second season. Bundles
ERYSIMUM WALLFLOWER
Seeos in midsummer,
CUTTlNGS in summer ,
Some of Lhe evergreen
perennials in this
genus were formerly
known as Cheira11!11us.
Species and short-lived
Ery,imum cultivars of wallnowers
·Bredon· (Erysi111 um
d1eiri) and Siberian wallOowers
(E. x allionii) are usually raised
from seeds. Take cuttings from
double-Oowered wallnower culLivars
such as 'Bloody Warrior', cullivars
thal do not set seeds such as 'Bowles'
Mauve', and other improved fonns
of species.
SEEDS
Shon-lived perennials grown as bedding
are sown as biennials (see also p.219).
Sow seeds thinly in rows in seedbeds in
196
of cuttings can also be stored upright in
pots of sand, barely covered, over
winter. In spring, when they sprout, line
them out in a nursery bed to grow on.
Small plants may also be scooped, as for
Primula (see p.206).
To obtain cutting material without
disturbing the parent's roots, place a
container-grown plant (the poi must
have big drainage holes) on a sand bed .
When strong roots have grown into the
sand through the holes, remove the pot
by cutting under it with a sharp knife
(see below). Lift the roots from the sand
10 use as cuttings or allow them 10 grow
on until spring, then transplant them .
OBTAINING MATERIAL FOR ROOT CUTTINGS
In spring, JJlace a container•grown plam (here
Eryngium aga ..ifolium) 011 a sand bed 1lia1 is at
le<1st 6 in (15cm) deep w encourage tloc plmu 10
root ituo the sand. In late autumn, slice under
the pot 10 cut 1lirough tl,e roots and free the pot.
Lift 1l1c roots from the sand to use <~s l uttings.
midsummer, then transplant seedlings
in early lo midaulumn.
CUTTINGS
Take semi-ripe stem-lip cuuings (see
p.154) from nonnowering shoots. Insert
in pots of rooting medium and
root under cover with minimal
....
,_ or no hea1. Pot the rooted
cuuings singly, after a
few weeks. Prolecl lhem
over winter from severe
cold in a cold frame, where
necessary.
SOFTWOOD WALLFLOWER CUTTING
Nodal currings (here of Erys imun1
linifolium) rom easily. Rem()ve <~ non~
flowering sl,oor wit II 3--4 nodes. curring
below a node. Trim off 11,r lower lea.,es.
EUPHORBIA SPURGE
DIVISION in early spring or
from s1>ring to summer ,
- Seeos in au1umn or spring,
Cunmos in s ummer or in
aulumn U
Perennials in this huge
and very varied genus
Euplwrbi" are tender lo very hardy.
sd,illi11gil Wear gloves when
handling Eup/1orbia, since the milky sap
can irrilate the skin. Most herbaceous
Eupho,·bia may be divided; species
increase readily from seeds. Cutlings
may also be taken from most species,
but especially selected forms. (For
succulenls, see p.246.)
DIVISION
Those nowering in spring and early
summer, such as Euphorbia polychroma,
are divided (see p.148) after nowering.
Divide late bloomers, for example
E. sililiimensis, in earl)• spring. Single
bud division (see p .150) is possible with
fibrous-rooted species.
SEEDS
Sow seeds (see p.151 ) at 59°F (1S°C).
Gennination can be erratic; seedlings
may appear over several months. To
overcome this, sow in autuinn and
expose 10 winter cold ; seeds should
then germinate more evenly in spring.
CUTTINGS
Take stem-tip cuuings ( see p.154) from
mature growth after Oowering. Take
2-4in (S- lOcm) long shoots and allow
to stand for an hour for the milky sap 10
dry before inserting in uays of rooting
1nedi un1- or in a moss roll (see p.155).
Place in a sheltered place such as a cold
frame; excess humidily can cause rol.
Cuuings Lake up to one month to root.
Pot singly and plant out in spring.
F ITTONIA NERVE PLANT
DIVISION i1\ spring .
SEEDS in spring U
C llTTINGS in 5pring or m late summer,
These tender, evergreen perennials have
freely rooting, creeping stems. Divide
eslablished plants (see p .148), pulling
the clu1nps into small, rooted pieces.
Pot these individually and keep at 64°F
(18°C) until established, when lhe
temperature can be lowered 10 59°F
(15°C). Seeds should germinate in three
weeks if sown (see p .15-1) in containers
al 64°F (18°C).
Take softwood stem-tip cuuings (see
p.154) from new shoots in spring or
from mature shoots.jn late summer, and
insen into trays or pots. At 64°F (18°C) ,
rooting should take 14 days.
 ERYNG lUM - GAZANIA

F RAGARIA STRAWBERRY G AURA

01v1s10N in lale summer j
SEEDS in c.irly spring or in
late summer 1
LAYERING in summer j
These perennials
include the fn1iting
strawberry and the
Fragaria x alpine strawberry. Most
ananassa cultivar strawberries produce
plantleLS on creeping, rooting stems
("runners," or stolons) , a natural
method of increase which can be
encouraged by layering to provide a
convenient method of propagation.
Some strawberries do not produce
runners, however, and must
be increased by division or from seeds.
Strawberries are susceptible to virus
infection, and it is important to
propagate only from healthy planLS.
ROOTI NG RUNNERS OF Sl"RAWBERRI ES
Keep ,he soil moisr w1<I ,·emovc all rite flowers
from a plant to enccmrnge numers. As rhry Jofm,
peg rhe rwmers down to aid rooting. In l<ue
sw11111er, carefully lift 1l1e roo1ed plmulers, sever
them from the pt"1rc11l, wul pot or plan I out.
0MSION in spring U
Seeos in early spring ,
CUTTINGS in spring or in summer U
Perennials in this genus thrive in a
hot, sunny position with free-draining
soil. The)' are generall)• short-lived ,
except for Gaura lindl,eimeri. Divide
plants (see p. J48) to nower in the
same season.
Sow the seeds in con tainers at 50°F
(I0°C) (see p.152). Take basal stem
cuttings in spring or semi-ripe heel
cuttings in summer (see pp.154-7).
Plants raised fro111 seeds or cuuings
nower in their first or second season.
G AZANIA
I Seeos in spring l
- . • .••' I

. _, ,;. <t;~ . Cun1NGS from l:11e summer

D1v1s10N
Some perpetual-fruiting cu ltivars do not
produce many runners, so clumps may
be propagated by standard division (see
sown at 64°F (l8°C) in early spring.
Fresh seeds may be sown outdoors, or
under the protection of a cold frame if
needed, in late sumn1er. New plants
nower and fruit in the following year.
-.... ~·
'·
,
i~<
. .:. -~.,.
- '
I, \_
>
lO ~ rly ~utumn

Many perennials in this

genus can be raised
from seeds sown at 64°F
1

'.-.,, I. I
•
p.148). New planLS shou ld fruit in the ( 18°C) in free-draining
following summer. l.AYERJNG Ga;:ania soil mix (see p.152) LO
Many strawberries have runners that rigcns var. uni/Jorn grow as annuals.
SEEDS root into the soil; runner production Seedlings appear in 14 days and nower
Alpine strawberries such as 'Baron coincides with the end of fruiting on in the same season. Gazania rigens (syn.
Solemacher' do not produce runners and cropping plants. PlantleLS form on these G. sple11de11s) does 1101 set seeds. Many
must be raised from seeds (see p.152) stems as they grow. \.Vhen the plantleLS cultivars will not come true.
are well rooted, they may be easily Take basal sie,n or semi-ripe stem-tip
severed fro1n the paren t plant. This self- cuttings (see pp. 154-6), if possible from
layering habit can be encouraged. Steins nonnowering shOOlS or remove the
may be layered onto the soil (see above) nower buds. Cuuings root readily, even
or into pots sunk into the bed. in water; use a free-draining rooting
For best results, keep some planLS mediun1 to avoid rot. Keep humid , but
. . . . ·. specifically for layering. Plan t these 3ft well-ventilated, until rooted (usually in
·--~--
•;""!' ,. • (90cm) apart and remove the nowers . 2-3 weeks), 1hen poi them. Keep frost-
..•, ...
~,~·;:-.
Keep the soil moist to encourage runners free before planting out in late spring.
10 develop and root. Peg runners with
wire staples into the soil or into 3in
(8cm) pots filled with soil-based mix
GATHERING ALPINE STRJ\\VBERRY SEEDS and plunged level with the soil surface. O THER PERENNIALS
Allow ri1,efruits of alpine s1rawbcrrics (here Plant rooted plantlets into their final EUPA"IORIU" Divide in spring (see p.148) ,.
of Fragaria vesca 'SemJJe,j!orens') 10 dry. Rub positions in late summer and autumn Seeds (JJ.151) in s pring a1 59°F (l5°C) •·
gently over a clean dish ro garlter ,he seeds. for a good crop in the following season. Basal srem cuuings (p./56) in spring 1-
EvOLVULUS Seeds al 64°F (18°C) in s pring
(sec p. l5 /) , . Take semi-ripe cuuings in
G AILLARD IA BLANKET FLO\VER early au1umn (JJ.154) 1-
fEUCIA (S)'n. Agml111ca) Sow seeds (J>. l 5 l )
Dtv1SION in early spring! SEEDS in spring al 59°F (l5°C) !- Take semi-ripe
SEEDS in spring l cunings (p. l54) in early amumn ,.
CUTTINGS in l.ue autumn U To save seeds, gather ripe nowerheads
and dry for several days; the seeds in the FlUPENDULA Divide in spring (see p.149) , .
Perennials in this genus cenrers should then drop out ver)' easily. Seeds (p.151) in s pring al 50°F (L0°C) U .
tend to be short-lived , Sow the seeds (see p.J5l) at a minimum Take roo1 cunings (p.158) in winter,.
especially on heavy te1nperature of 59°F (15°C); they should GALAX URCEOL,IT,1 (syn. G. aphylla) Divide
soils. Most new planLS germinate within ten days. in spring (see p.148); slow to reestablish U-
Gaillardia nower in one year; Seeds (p.151) in spring a1 S0°F (I 0°C) U-
·Kobold" cultivars can be divided CUTTINGS GALEGA Divide (see JJ.148) in autumn or
or grown from cutt ings. (For amttwls Perennial cultivars can be propagated spring i. Soak seeds in cold waler; sow at
and biennials, see p.224.) from root cuuings (see p.158). Remove 59°F (15°C) in spring (1>p. l5 l -2) 1-
the thickest roots from the perimeter of GAUUM Divide af1cr nowering (see
DIVISION a clump to avoid disturbing the parent. p. l 48) , . Sow seeds (p.15 /) when ripe or
Divide the tight crowns into individual, Cut into 2-3in (5cm-8cm) lengths and in spring; keep in a cold frame,.
rooted shooLS (see p.150). root with bottom heat of 50°F ( 10°C).

197
A-Z OF PERENNIALS
G ENTIANA GENTIAN
D1v1s10N in c~rl) spnng or
after nowcring l
SEEDS from ,ul'l'Hncr to t~arl)
autumn or 111 earl)' :,pnng U
CUTTING$ m -.pnni or m
,ummcrU
Most perennial gentians
Griuiw,c1 are rather long-lived and
sincl·m11tua produce copious amounts
of seeds, which are the pri,ne means of
propagation. Some, such as Gent iana
saxosa and G. septcmfida, may se lf-sow.
Larger species such as G. asclepiade,1
tolerate division (see /J.148). Others,
especially mat-form ing alpines such as
DI VID ING ALPINE GENTIANS
Oh'itlr mm·Jo,ming species (here Gcmiana
1 acaulis) <t~ growth brgins i11 spring. Lrf, lht·
11l<mt mul gem Iv pull it apat't i11w ·'lJwngs, .. el1ch
wi1h ,oors and a nown of kmrs (sec inscl).
G ERANIUM CRANESBILL
i
DIVISION 111 late ,1,nnmcr, ,llllt,111111 or r:irl> ..,pnng
Seeos wh('n ripe or m (';HI) :i.pnng 1
STEM CUTTINGS in l:.1lr spnng or m lmc ~urnmcr ~,
ROOT CUTTlNGS in autumn '
Division every 3-4 years helps the
perennials in this genus main1ain vigor.
Species hybridize readily, and some
selr-sow. All species and some cuh ivars
may be raised from seeds. Only a few
species, including G. Slmg11i11e11111 and
G. 111acrorrltiz11111, form stems suitable
to use as cuttings; take root cuttings
from G. pratensc, G. phaewn, and
G. sang11ine11111.
D IVISION
Divide (see p.148) lo Oower in the first
year. Loose, nbrous clumps arc easily
pulled apart. Tight, woody roo1s1ocks
must be cut or pried apart . Single bud
divisions (see /1· 150) arc possible.
SEEDS
Seed sown at 59°F ( l 5°C) should
germinate within 14 days (see p.151).
Plants should Oower the following year.
CUTT INGS
Take basal stem cuttings (see ,,.156) in
spring or when growth has ceased. Cut
at, or just below, ground level. Stems or
198
G. acaulis, and aulumn-Oowering ones
such as G. veitchio111111 and G. si110-on1ata ,
increase in the wi ld by rooted offshoots.
Fleshy-rooted types with dense crowns,
such as G. /JILl"/JW'ea and G. l11tea, resent
disturbance once established, so are
best raised fro,n seeds or cuttings. For
the autumn gentians, use organic-rich,
acid ic or neutra l, free-draining but moist
soil mix; spring gentians prefer a less
organic, neutral to al kaline mix.
DIVISION
Divide rooted offshoots carefully (sec
below) in early spring lo avoid divisions
G,·c,w 011 the thongs i11 ,~ nur~c,y bat in
2 griuy ~oil, spaced 6in ( 15cm) apcffl, m in
pms "ffn-c.draining potting mh:, for oue \l('(lf.
l'Jmu il1cm ow in die following sin i11g.
trailing plants such as 'Ann Folkard' can
be cut into sections in spring, each with
one node. Root in Lrays in shade at 59°F
( l5°C). Rooted cuttings Oower in a year.
Take root cuuings from alpines (see
p.167), lin (2.5cm) long; scatter like
large seeds over soi l mix in a tray and
j ust cover. Root in a cold frame outdoors
and transplant in spring. Some species,
especially alpines, can be increased from
self-rooted cuttings (see p.167) .
Ru•ENINC GERANIUM SEEOl·IEAOS
Ripe srrdheads cjecr 1hr sc!'ds sudcknly. so cJ1cd:
daily and gmher du· pods when they turn brown
but b(jorr rhc .. bcah'' unfurls. Keep rhcm i11"
JJ"l'cr IJ"g until tJu:v release th.: Sf'tds.
rolling over winter. Li[l each plant and
1case it apart into small pieces with
several shoots and Oeshy (thong) roots.
Sometimes, offshoots can be detached
wi1hout disturbing the paren t. Replant
or pot them im,nediately. Divide larger
plan ts in the usual way (see p.148) . All
new divisions will die if they dry out;
spray with water twice daily during dry
periods. Plants should Oowcr within a
rear if damage is kept to a minimum.
SEEDS
Seeds decline in viabilit)' fairly quickly
so are best sown (see p.152) as soon as
ripe. Autumn-Oowering gen tians need
an acidic seed soil mix . Sow the nne
seeds thinly to avoid damping off (see
p.46). They germinate in 4-5 weeks, but
the tiny seedlings often develop slow!)'·
Transplant seedlings singly in10 pois
once large enough 10 hand le. New plants
Oower in 2-5 years.
CUTT INGS
Take sor1wood stem-tip or basal stem
cuttings, especially o r autumn-Oowering
gentians. Insert in pots in a mix or equal
pans coarse sand and peal and keep al
59°F (l5°C). Once rooted , pot 1hc
cuuings ind ividually and g row on in a
cold frame o r alpine house (see p.154).
GUNNERA
DMSION m ~pring or summer U
Seeos 111 summer. :nuumn U
Divide large 1ypes (sec
p. 148) before g rowth
starts into single crowns
in midspring, or sow
seeds as soon as ripe
Cu1111em fro1n round fruits in
11u1111w111 aulu1nn (see p.151 ) al
59°F (15°C). Divide mat-forming alpines
(p. J 67) in early spring or late summer.
Seeds of alpines arc rarely fertile; sow
fresh (see p.164) in pots in a cold frame.
O THER PERENNIALS
G1.RR1 RA Di,•iclc old 1>lams (sec I'· H8) into
single rosc11cs in spring!, Sow seeds (p.J5l)
in spring at 59°F ( 15°() !-
G~U\I Divide (str ,,. H9) in springl, Sow
seeds (p. 151) in autumn outdoors or in
spring at SO'F (I O'C) U-
Gn.LL1'1A As for Grum l ,
GL\UCll!\I Sow seeds (sec /J.151) direct in
autumn or in spring at 59°F ( 15°() U,
GLLCIIOMA Divide in spring (sec p. 149) l ,
Detach rooted plant lets ac any time (see
/J.24) l- Sow seeds (p.151) in spring a, 50°F
( IO'C) u.
Take softwood s1cm-1ip tunings
 GENTIANA - H EDYSARUM

G YPSOPHILA BABl''S BREATH

SEEDS \\ hen ripe or in ;;,pring,
CUTTINGS 111 ...prm~ or m ...ummcr ~
GRAFTING m 1,11<.' w1111cr lU
Most perennials in this genus are
quite hard)', but a few are less so. Species
are normall)' grown from seeds; grow
cuhivars, which do not come true
from seeds, from cutti ngs. However,
doublc-nowered cultivars of Gypsophila
paniculata do not root rcadil)' from
cuttings and arc most successful if
grafted. Larger herbaceous Gypsophil<,
are deep-rooted and resent disturbance.
SEEDS
----
Sow seeds (see /J.151) of perennial
species in pots as soon as the)' ripen
or in spring, and keep at 59°F ( 15°C).
Slugs (see ,,.47) and s nails mar auack
seedlings. (For <11111twls. see p.224. )
CUTTINGS
-----------
Take strong basal shoots (see p.156),
if possible, or softwood stem tips (see
p.154) as cuttings. Root at 64°F (18°C)
in a mix of coarse sand and soil. Plants
will nower in the following season.
GRAFTING
For grafting (see below), a two-rear-old
seedling of C. pmriculara, with vigorous
roots, is used 10 provide the rootstock.
Lift a plant of the chosen cu ltivar in
au1un1n , pot, and keep in a frost-free
greenhouse 10 force growth slight!)'· By
late winter, there should be strong, new
growth on the cuhivar, which can be
used 10 provide scions for grafting. Keep
grafted plants under cover until late
spring, when they can be p lanted out.
The)' will nower well in the next season.

GRAFT ING GYPSOPH ILA PANICULATA

Cui (foh11 tl1rough
( fnfc·r of ,1od< 1\lt1kt' HH> ,;lot>/11~ HUS
Sot1i1,!h1 . L1fr a t\\ O·) car·
llfdlrh) J(l()l 1<>Id, stc,l.roisrtl cm It ,ilk (If lmsc

11lm11. Clc,111 the

soil frmn 1l1r mms.
Rnuo, r c1 J-li11
(8-I0,111) k11grh
from a 1/111 (1cm)
diidl mm. cuuing
!)fmight (l(IOSS die n·im cmy fibrous roo1s from chc Tal:r a 2-3i11 (5-Scr11) l011g
wp t•,ul cmcl cu an 2 roo, srcrion a11cl cu1 bacll lmcrnJ 3 ba!>crl shoot from tht• ci1lt ivcu- to
cmgfr m 1lu_ • bc,sc. roo1s u, ½in (1cm) . Malu~ o 1/.-Y.in use as a scion. Rcmm•c the bouom
( l- 2cm) ,·,..-1ical c111 i1110 r/1t· rop of tMir of ken es a11cl c1u d1r l,c1se i11to
tht' sioclt wirh c1 cit-an. sharv lmifr. a 1/..-¼i11 (l-2cm) long wc,tg,, shape.

du~srodi
4 ~>01
UI fOOllllg
mctliw11 Will Ji, m
in. Gently push tht
base of 1l1r ~cia11 inw
rhr cur ou rhc stoclt
so rhry jir snugly
rogcthc,: Chrcl1 1hm
11,r rdgcs of the :.wcl:
.li11 (Sim) P"' mul .scion align 011 lH
kasr one sM1..·.

Srcurr the graft wilh ,,tastic grafting tc1pc
5 or niffic, rn hole/ ir fir 111/y i11 place IJirl// rlr1·
c111i,·r r,rcrft to p,r,•rnt ,h:vinx out. t<1bel tht· pm.
then watn· 1lwmugl1ly <111cl allow ro clmi11.
Co"n d1r pm ,dth a clean pfostic bag kept
6 dear of tire gnifr by four split s1<1/l(·s ro
m·oid mt. Kft'P in c1 lig/11 place ,u abo111 59°F
(15<>C) Jm 4-6 wcdl~ 11111il new growth ll/>pear:..

of"ariegatecl G. hcclcrac,11 eulti "ars (p.154)
in spring j. C,m ht in\'aSi\'C.
GtOUB,.\ Divide (Sl't' I'· J 49) in spring*· Sow
seeds (p.151) in spring at 70°1' (2 J °C) l-
G1 ouu.,.\RIA Divide in spring: tease ~,w~1)'
small TOOied sh OOIS rrom the edges or low.
hummock-rorming kinds that dislike
disturbance (set· p.167) U- Sow seeds (p.164)
in amumn: keep in a cold rrame U - Take
rosenc cunings (p. /66) in late sununcr:
bonom hear or 59-64°F ( 15- 18°C) hclpsU.
GnC'IRRIIIZA Divide in lale winter. as for
Paeo11ia (sec 11.204) U- Sow S<'Cds in spring at
59° F ( 15°C): ,oak first in cold water (sec p. 149) l-Sow seeds (p. / 64)
for 24 hours (11p. I 5 /-2) l- when ripe; keep in a cold frame:
H,1"' "" Sow seeds (sec 11,164) often self-sows U-
when fresh in summer~ keep in a 1-ltDYUIILI\I (syn. 1Jmcl1yclti/t1111) Di\'idc
cold frame~ germinates in a few rhizomes while s1ill dormant in early
weeks: leave seedlings for one spring (sec p.149) l- Sow S<'ccls (p.151)
year before transplanting*· Take rosette in spring at 70°F (2 1°C) l-
cuttings (J>.166) in earl)' summer,. New l lcorsARU\I Sow seeds (sec 11.164) in
pl:uus a1·c very susceptible both to drying spring at 59°F ( 15°C) after soaking
out an<l 10 rolling. in hOl waler 10 break dornmncy
HARFRt t A As for Rcm,011//a (p.207) Ul- (p. /5/) U
1-1,\C.QL't nA LP1r,,n·1s (syn. Do11clia
cpipacris) Divide after Oowcring C EIWEl!AJAMESONII CULTIVARS

199
A-2 OF PERENNIALS
H ELENIUM S NEEZE\VEED
OIVISION in spring'
S EEDS in springi
CUTTINGS in spring H
Nlost perennial
Hele11iu111 quickly
form large clumps.
These are easily
Hde11iu111 increased by division
'So,menwunder" every 3-4 years , which
also maintains the vigor of each plant.
Cut the rootstock (see p.148) into good-
sized portions.
H ELIANTHUS SUNFLOIVER
DIVISIONin spring'
Seeos in spring,
CUTTINGS in late spring j
The several perennials
in this genus are easily
divided (see p.148) ;
the roo1s1ocks may be
lic/ia,u/rns woody or spread by
·cap,noch Siar' underground stems
(stolons), which can be invasive. Plants
will flower the same season. Sow seeds
(see p.151) of species at 59°F ( 15°C) 10
germinate in 7-10 days; plants shou ld
flower in 2-3 years. Take basal stem
cuuings (see p.156) from Jin (8c1n)
shoots; at 59°F ( 15°C). the)' should root
within 14 days. Plants ,nay flower in the
same year. For annual sunflowers, see
p.224;Jerusalem artichokes. see p.302.
H ELICHRYSUM
DIVISION m >pnng'
Seeos m spring or in s ummer I
CUTTINGS from su1nmer to early au1uinn !
Perennials in this genus are susceptible
LO rot if kept 100 moist, so take care 10
provide drainage and ventilate well.
Fibrous-rooted clumps of perennials,
for example H. 1hia11sclia11 icu111 (syn.
lanar-11111), may be divided (see p.148)
into 2-4 sections. Expect flowers later
in the same year.
Gather ripe seedheads the moment
they beco1ne fluffy, before the seeds
blow awa)'· Sow (see p.151) at SS-61°F
(13-16°C). Seedlings should appear
after two weeks, and plants will flower
within two )'Cars. Sow seeds of alpines
as soon as they are ripe in summer.
Take semi-ripe s1em-1ip cuuings (see
p.154) of new, nonflowering growth and
root at 59°F (15°C) in trays. Transplant
the cunings when rooted, usually in
about 14 days, or delay polling until late
spring. Provide cold protection where
necessary over winter. New plants will
flower in the following year. Roselle
cuttings (see p.167) may be taken from
the alpine H. miljordiae.
200
Most garden Hele11iu111 are cuhivars and
will not come true from home-gathered
seeds. Sow seeds (see p.151 ) in spring al
a temperature of 59°F (15°C). Seed lings
should emerge in about a week and be
transplanted in early 10 midsum1ner.
They often flower in the next year.
To increase stock of cu ltivars more
quickly, take basal stem cuttings (see
p. J56) from new growth when the new
shoots are about Jin (8cm) tall. Rooted
cuuings may flower in the same season.
HELLEBORUS HELLEBORE
D IVISION :ther nowcring j
Seeos in summer j
The Lenten rose (Helleborus orientalis,
H. x l1ybridus) hybridizes freely, but the
seedlings are usually allractive; for true
offspring of cultivars, plants must be
divided. Other species come true.
DIVISION
Divide hybrids such as H. x nigercors
when new growth is mature (see p.148).
Young clumps of H. orie111alis and other
species can be pulled apart, but older
plants and other species need cuuing or
GATHERING IIEll.EBORE SEED CAPSULES
Tes, a seed capsule (here of Helleborus
orien1alis) by gently s<1ueezing; if ii splits to
,~veal darl, seeds. it is ready to ha1-ves1. \Vear
gloves to guard against the irrlwnt s<1p. Keep the
capsules clry cmd warm until they splir (inset).
H EMEROCALLIS DAYLILY
DIVISION in early spring,
Seeos in autuml'1 or in spriog l
The majority of daylilies are very hardy,
but most of the evergreen types arc less
so. Divide congested clumps with forks
(see p.148), trim off da1naged roots
completely, and replant. Single bud
H EPATICA
D rv1s10N m late w1111cr or in spnng U
Seeos in e:ul)' summer or in hue wimer U
These woodland plants are slow 10
increase by vegetative means; sowing
seeds is recommended , except for
named cultivars. Divide mature plants in
late winter or after flowering (see p.148).
Each crown n1us1 have good roots if it is
10 establish well. Sow seeds (see p.151)
the moment they are ripe, or in late
winter, in pots in a cold fra1ne. Plants
flower after about three years.
back-to-back forks. Well-rooted pieces
should flower in the following spring.
SEEDS
Nlosl species set seeds, and many self-
sow (see below). Sow at once (see p.151 )
in a seedbed or in trays; they germinate
best if exposed 10 winter cold LO break
dormancy. They may start LO germinate
in autumn or the spring and flower in
2-3 years. Dry, old seeds germinate
erratically, if at all. If seeds cannot be
sown fresh, store in moist sand or moss.
Good subjects for hybridizing (see p.21).
SELF•SOWN HELLEBORE SEEDLINGS
Seedlings of m,my species (here Hclleborus
argutifolius) may be found ai the base of the
planr in spring. \VJ,en each seedling J,as al lens,
one true leaf. carefully lifr ir and transplant in
mois1 ,fenile soil in dappled shade.
divisions (see p.150) are possible; these
can be "topped," as for hostas (see faci11g
page). Sow seed of species (see p.151) at
59°F (15°C) 10 germinate in 14 days,
especially if seeds are fresh. Plants
flower from the second year. Seedlings
from cu ltivars vary but may be pleasing.

H EUCHERA CORALBEW
DIVISION in spring'
SEEDS in spring'
If not divided regularly, these perennials
decline in vigor. Division also preserves
the color and leaf variegation of cultivars,
but a smal l number of variegated
seedlings also come true, and others
may be auractivc. After dividing a crown
(see below and p.148), discard the old,
woody center. Sow seeds (see p.151) at
50°F (10°C). So1ne of the cuhivars, such
as 'Palace Purple' come true. Plants
Oower the next year.
DIVIDING A H EUCHERA
Lift rhe plant mice in new sp,ing growrh. Tahe
small, vigorous secrions from around die edgt,
each wirh good roots ar1d 2-3 sl,001s (see inse1).
O THER PERENNIALS
HELICONIA Divide in spring (see p.149) l,
Afler hot-water lrca1mc1n, sow seeds in
spring a, 70°F (21 °C) (pp.151-2) l-
HEuoPS1s As Heliar11hus (see facir1g 1,age) ,.
x HEUCHEREL.LA Divide in autumn or
spring (see p.148) , .
HOUTTIJYNIA CORDATA Divide in spring (see
p.148) 1-Sow seeds (p.151) in spring at
500F (10°C) , . Take sofiwood cu11ings
(p.154) in spring,.
HwOESTES Sow seeds (see p.151) in spring
al 64°F (18°C) l , Soft s1em-1ip cuuings in
spring or semi-ripe in summer (p.154) l,
IBERIS Sow seeds (see p.151 ) in au,umn ,.
Take semi-ripe cullings (pp.J5i and 166)
in midsummer,.
IMPATIENS Sow seeds (see p.151) of
a,
bedding species and cultivars 61°F
( 16°C) in spring (for annuals, see p.225) l ,
Take sof1 s1em-1ip cuHings (p.154) in
spring or summer 1,
INCARVJLLEA (syn. Amphicome) Sow seeds
(p.151) fres h. or in spring: keep in a cold
frame,.
INUU. Divide in autumn or spring (see
p.148) 1- Sow seeds (p.151) in spring at
500F (10°C) l- Take basal stem cullings
(p.156) in spring,.
lrOMOEA (syn. Mina. Pharbitis) Sow seeds
(see p.151) in spring at 70°F (21°C) in
bright light (for m1111wls, see p.225) U-
Take softwood cut1ings (p.154) in spring l,
1RESINE Stem cuuings in autumn; stem· tip
tunings in spring (see p/J. 154-5) 1-
PLANTAIN LILY
0 MSION in spnng l
SEEDS in spring U
Most form fibrous-
rooted clum ps, though
some are rhizomatous
or have creeping,
rooting stems (stolons).
Hosw They can take titn e to
'Halcyon' recover from root
disturbance, so divide only when new
plants are needed or when plants have
outgrown their space.
D IVISION
Break dense clutnps apart with a spade
(see riglH); tease loose, fleshy-rooted
clumps apart carefully by hand (see
p.22) to minimize root damage. Single
buds (see p.150) may be potted or lined
out in a nursery bed. Plants will be
111ulticrowned the following year,
especially if "topped" (see below) at the
sa me time. Cuts are made through the
buds of young divisions lined out in a
nursery bed; a multibudded crown will
form around the damaged bud. This
may Oower in the following season and
provides material for further division.
PROPAGATI NG HOSTAS BY "TOPPI NG"
\Vhen 1/1e buds begin to shoot in spring,
1 sc.rape away the soil from around the base
of each bud 10 expose 1he crown. Use a clean,
damp cloth to wipe elem, the base of each
crown, wJdng care not to disturb its roots.
Treat each cut with Jionnone rooring
3 compowul, then 1nsen a toothpich ro lleep
each wound open. Cover the crowns wirh soil to
the same depth as before, firm, ancl water well.
Keep moist throughout the growing season.
H ELENIUM - I RESINE
Keep bl<ide of
)padc \'Crtic,~1 - - ,
D IVIDING A LARGE IIOSTA CLUMP
If the clump 10 be divided /1as a tough. dense
roo1srocl1, chop it i1110 pieces with a spade. Malie
sure diar el,ch piece has 1-3 good buds and ttim
any damaged roots with a lmife.
SEEDS
Hostas set seeds freely; gather the Oower
spikes as the lowest pods begin to shed
seeds. Seedlings show much, someti mes
interes1ing, variation, although most
species come true fro,n seed. Seedlings
from variegated plants retain only one
color. Sow seeds (see p.151) at 59°F
(15°C); keep seedlings in a cold frame.
Plants Oower in 2- 3 years.
Carefully mahe a small, vertical cut
2 through the crown of each bucl by pushing
through the elem,, sharp blade of a scalpel or
/111ife. If rhe crown is thick enough, mahe a
second cut at right angles 10 the first.
By autumn. dormant buds should Jonn
4 arou11cl the healed cuts and, in the following
sp,·ing, the new buds wiH JJroduce new shoots
(see above). Divide the crowns in rhe autumn
or in spring into pieces, each witl1its own bud.
201
A-Z OF PERENNIALS
I RIS
DIVISION m -;pnng.
midsummer. or au1uinn
S EEDS in sprmg U
The fibrous-rooted and
rhizomatous perenn ials
benefit from being
divided every 3-4 years.
1," The species and new
l111llnm1<r hybrids arc raised from
seeds. (For bulbous irises, see p.271.)
DIVI SION
Divide moisture-lovi ng irises such as
Siberians in spring or autumn (see
p.148). Lift rhizomatous kinds, such
as bearded iris, in midsummer and cu t
rhizom es into sections, each with roots
and a fan of leaves (see p.149); replant,
with tops barely covered, 6in ( 15cm)
apart. Flowers wil l be sparse the next
year, but good thereafter. Cu t rhizomes
without growing points in to pieces
about J in (8cm) long and put into trays ,
leaving the tops exposed. Shoots will
soon appear. They wil l take two years
lO nower.
SEEDS
Iris seeds have germination inhibitors;
soak in co ld water for 48 hours before
sowing (see p.151) in autumn in pots at
61 °F (16°C) 10 germinate in spring.
Seedlings begin to nower within two
years. Never let seed lings of moisture-
loving species dr)' out.
L EWlSlA BITTEROOT
SeEOS from mid· to l.uc summer or io earl> :.ptingj;
Rosene CUTTINGS in summer U,
LEAF CUTTINGS io -,unnnn iU
The principal means of increasing these
alpines is from seeds. Lewisi,i coiyletlon
cu hivars, evergreen s pecies, and several
o thers form offsets that can be used as
cullings. Excess moisture is fatal , so
water seed lings and cu lli ngs carefully.
S EEDS
Sow seeds (sec p.164) when ripe or in
spring in a free-draining soil 1nix of one
pan sterilized soil 10 two pans each of
leaf mold and s harp sand. Place in a
cold frame. L. tweetlyi germinates slowl)'
and erratically. Some species hybridize
readily; seeds may 1101 come true to
type, but seed lings can be very beautifu l.
CUTT INGS
Re1nove offsets with as much stem as
possible (see p.166). Root in pots in
g rill)' soil mix or lime-free sand , in a
shaded closed case or cold rrame. Leaf
cu llings (see p.166) may be rooted in
the same conditions but arc slow 10
establish and rot readily if overwatered.
202
LOBELIA
DIVISION in spring!
i S EEDS in aulunm or in >pnn~ ~
Cun mos in ,;pring or in summer U
Some short-lived perennials (mostly
Lobelia erinus cultivars) arc grown as
bedding, but the border perenn ials, so me
quite hard)' and others less so, may be
divided or grown from cullings.
01VISION
Separate the crowns of plants such as
L. siphili1ica, L. cwdina/is, and L. l<txiflora
b)' hand, o r with a hand fork and knife
(see p.148), for flowers in the same yea r.
S EEDS
Sow seeds (see p.151) of hardier types as
soon as ripe , in a sheltered place. Sow
less hardy perennia ls thinly: at 59°F
(15°C). seedl ings emerge in a few weeks.
Most seedlings nower in the first year.
CUTTINGS
Take stem-tip or stem cullings (sec
pp./ 54-5) from border pere nnials in
summer. Flowering stems of L. siphililica
and L. cardinalis can be cu t into 2in
L UPINUS L UPINE
S EEDS from earl> ... pring 10
mid-.pnn& ~
CurnNGS rmcl· 10 1:uc spring U
Of the perennials, only
cuhivars o r Lupinus
polypl1yllus are widely
grown. Unusually,
Lupimis many modern hybrid
The Cha1clainc· selections, such as the
Gallery Series, and some cuh ivars will
breed true from seeds. Cull ings are the
best means of vegetat ive increase. Man)'
lupines dislike hot weather, moist soils,
and root disturbance.
SEEDS
For even germination, soak seeds for
24 hou rs in cold water before sowing
(see p.152) at 59°F ( 15°C). The seeds
are large and may be space-sown in a
seedbed (see p.153) or in individual pots
LO avoid root disturbance when polling
on. Germination should occur wi thin
ten days . Plant out in late spring.
CUTTINGS
Take new shoots as basal stem cutti ngs
(see p.156) when about Jin (8cm) tall.
At a temperature of 59°F (15°C), rooting
takes 10-14 clays. To avoid the risk of
rot, try rooting the cullings in perli te
instead of medium , as for delphiniums
(see p.156). Pot rooted cuuings and
g row on in a sheltered place such as a
cold frame. Plant out in early summer 10
!lower in the following year.
(5cm) lengths; remove the lower leaves.
They root in three weeks at 64°F ( l8°C).
Protect over winter. Plants nowcr the
next season. For more plants, split
cuuings vertically, retaining leaves on
each. Take basal stem cuttings (sec p.156)
of double forms of L. c,imis in spring.
PA1C.III NG S~FDLINGS OF OFDDING LOSELl,1
I mgr numbers oj Sft'clling) Jo, swumc, btcMin~
mt tnliou!I W trcm~pltmt. TcJ sti\'t~ 1111u· mul ensure
,, dens<· <lrifr of pl<111ts. sow seeds less d1inly aml
u-cu1:.plmu :,n:dlings in )UJCllf clustn'), o, 1xrtclu·s.
LYCHNIS CAiv/PiON, CATCHFLY
DIVISION in ,ummcr or IO .lUllHllll '
Seeos 111 earl) spring 1
CUTTINGS in spring 1
Divide perennials, except Lycl111 is x
haagecma, in this genus (syn. Viscaria)
after nowering (see p.148). Divisions
nower in the same or nex t season. Sow
seeds (see pp.151-2) at 50°F (10°C);
seeds of alpines are best sown as soon
the)' ripen. Plants grown from seeds
nower in 1-2 years. Some species, such
as L. coronaria, self-sow freely. A large
number of seedl ings from color forms
should come true. Take basal stem
cullings (see p.156) .
MARANTA PRAYER PLANT
0 1v1s10N 111 spring J
S eeos in spring U
C umNGS in ...prini U
Divide established plants of these
rhizomatous, tender perennials, pu lling
the clumps apart (see p.148). Grow on
divisions at 64°F (18°C) in humidity
and bright, ind irect light unti l they are
established . Sow seeds (see p.151) to
germ inate at 64°F ( l8°C) in two weeks.
Take basal stem cutLings (see p.156)
when new shoots are 3-4in (8-lOcm)
tall. Remove the lowest leaves and insert
the cutLings in pots or trays in rooting
medium . Vl1ith humidity and bollom
heat of 64°F ( 18°C), cunings shou ld
root with in two weeks.
 I RIS - M O RI SIA

M ECONOPSIS M IMULUS
BLUE, HIMALAYAN, AND W ELSH POPPIES M ONKEY FLO\VER
D IVISION in hue :,\lllllllCr or as they ripen (seedlings from summer O IVISION m ~prmg 1
m c:nly .tulumn U sowings need winter protection), or Seeos in aulumn or in spring 1
Seeos in summer, c;.,rl) C UTTINGS in spring or i,, ~Httumn 1
~Httun11l or Ill :-.pring, or U
siore seeds d ry in the refrigerator and
sow in early spring. For best results, do Mos1 perennials in 1his genus (syn.
or 1he often shon-lived both. Sow the seeds in cells in soil less Diplacus) are short-lived and so should
perennials in 1his seed mix and cover 1hem on ly ligh1ly be propagated regular!)'. Established
genus, the Welsh popp)', wi1h vermiculi1e. Keep them moist but pla n1s mar be divided . Al l are easy 10
Mtc1J1u)psi:- lvlcconopsis cambrica, is 1101 wet. Sowing on 1110ss (sec p.208) ra ise from seeds bu! hybridize freely, so
IKionrcifolio eaS)' 10 raise from seeds prcvenLS 1he seeds from d rying o ut. At seedlings may var)'.
since it self-sows freely. The prized blue- 59°F ( 15°C), germ ination takes three
flowered species, such as M. betonicifolia, weeks. Poi or plant out seedl ings in D IVISION
are mo re difficult; some arc monocarpic. acidic soi l mix o r lime-free soil. Perennial herbaceous species can be
Selected fonns and sterile h)'brids divided (see />. 148); some have creeping
are divided. rootstocks.
D IVISION SEEDS
Once growth has ceased, divide planls Surface-sow the tiny seeds (see p.151) in
(see p.148) inlo single roscncs. Handle spring at 43-54°F (6-l 2°C). Germinmion
1he crowns carerull y: 1hey bru ise easil)', usually occurs within 1wo weeks. Hard y
which can lead 10 rot. species may also be sown in autu mn
in pots for early flowers; protect d uring
SEEDS winter in a cold frame. 1Wi11111fus selr-sow
Sow seeds of M. camlnica in au1umn and freely.
expose 10 wi nter cold to germina1e in G ATHERING M ECONOPSLS SEEDS
spri ng. Gathered seeds (l'igh1) o r o ther ;\s s0011 as cht seed cc,psidcs turn brown, cut CUTTINGS
species usually come true, al1hough 1hey them off cmd leavt: to dr" in a warm pl<,ce wuil Take sor1wood stem-lip cuuings (see
tend 10 hybridize. Seeds have short Jiu, tops Ot'fn (sec insc,). Shahc 0111 thl" seeds p.154). Cuuings root wi1hin three weeks
viabilit)'' ga1her and sow 1hem as soon onto a de,111 piat of 1x,pc1; then sow at once. and ,nay nower later in the same season.

O THER PERENNIALS
JA!\CAL\ (syn.Jmrlurea) As for
Rm11011<la (sec 1>.207) 1.
J1·HtR!-A..ll\1A (S)'I\. Plogiothcgma}
Divide (sec I'· H8) in spring;
slow 10 establish , . Sow seeds
(p. I51) as soon as ri pc. at 50°1'
( l OOC) U. Slow-growing.
Jl'Nn-. Divide in springjus1 as
growth begins (sec p. I 48) ,. Sow
seeds (11.151) as soon as ripe or
in spring a1 500F ( L0°C) U .
KIRCNG[StlO:\IA Divide in spring
(sec p.149) ,. Sow seeds (p. I 5 I)
in spring a, 500F ( I 0°C) U. O ld
seeds germinate crn:uically and
slowl)', Take basal stem cuni ngs
(11.156) in spring,.
K\!AUTIA Divide in spring (see
I'· I 48) ,. Sow seeds (p. I 5 I) in
spring at 59°1' ( I 5°C) , . Basal
stem cullings (p.1.56) in spring.
K"1JIPHOF1,, Divide in mid- to late
spring: replant large portions,
bul pot and grow on small
roo1ed shoots (see pp.148-9) H
Sow seeds (11.15 I) in sprinis a,
59°F <1s c> ~-
0
1..Aa1.As Pt 1Rrt·R1 us (syn, Dolichos
lablab) See Vegetables. 11.302.
LIMIU" (syn. Galeobclolon.
Lmniastnm1) Divide in spring
(sec p.148) , . Sow in spring in a
seedbed or a, 50°F (I o·c) in
pois (1,p.151-J) ~- Take s1em-tip
cuuings (t>, 15-1) in swmner ,.
L\TllYRLS Divide in spring (sec
p. 148) ~- Sow seeds in spring a1
59°F (15°C): soak firs1 for 24
hours in cold water (pp.151 - 2) !-
For L. odo, ,uus. sec p.226.
LEOi\ TOPODIU~·1 Olvidc in spring
(SCI' p. 1-18) !- Sow seeds (p.15 J)
as soon as ripe or in autumn~,.
LLL'CANTll[Ml'M As for Knautia.
Le, c 0(,1·" ·' Sow fresh seeds
(sec ,,.151) a, o nce in organic-
rich, frCC>drnining, acidic to
neutral soil mix~ germina1 ion is
usually poor UI. Take semi-ripe
s1em-1ip cu11ings (1>.154) in hue
summeru.
LIATRI\ As for Knt1Wia ,.
LmERTIA As for Liriot>C, but seeds
are in capsules l ,
L!GUL\RIA A:, for Knautia ,.
LJMO'-:lliM As for Knawia 1.
L1NAR1,, As for Knautia 1,
LINVM Sow seeds al 59°F ( I 5°C)
in spring (see p.151) ,. Softwood
cunings in mid-spring or semi-
ripe Cullings (p.154) of woody-
based species in summer i.
L1i:t10P1· Divide in spring (sec
,,. I 49) , . Sow seeds extrnc1cd
from berries (f>p.151 - 2) in
spring at 50°1' (I OOC) , .
LOTL~ (syn, Do,yc11ium) Seeds
in spring (s,·c p.152) a, 59°F
( 15°C):soak firs, for 24 hours in
ho1 wa1cr 1, Scmi-ripC' c.:uuings
(p.1.54) in late summer !-
Ll NARtA Divide L. rediviva in
spring (sec p.148) !. Sow seeds
di rec1 in spri ng (11.152) j. ( For
,11111,wls, sec p.227. )
LUZULA As fo r J1111c11s ,.
L\\I\IM t-11A Divide in spring (sa
1>. H8) j . Sow seeds (1,.151) in
Spring"' 50°F ( l o•c) ,. S1cm-
1ip cu11ings (p.154) from
late spring,. Root semi-
ripe cuuings of
L. 11w11m11fario in earl)'
autumn in medium or
moss roll (pp.154- 5) !-
L\'Tf-lRL M 1\s for Knmuia , .
MACLLA\A (syn. Bocccmia)
Divide in spring (sec
,,. 149) j . Sow seeds
(p.151) in spring at 59°F
( I 5°C): self-sows freel)'
1. Take rhizome sections
in winter and trca1 as
roo1 eunings (r,.158) j.
MAt VA Sow seeds (sec
p.151) in spd nga, 50°F
( l0°C) !- Take basal s1em or
s1em-1ip cu11ings (1>p. I54-6)
in spring 1.
MARRllBll M Sow seeds (sec
p.15 l) in au1Unm or spring in
pots at 50°F (10°C): germination
is erratic 1. Basal s1em cuuings
(1>.156) in late summer!,
tvlAZUS Divide in spring 1. Sow
seeds (p. I64) when ripe or in
early spring in pois at 500F
( 10°C) 1. Detach sclf-rooied
cuLLings (sec p.167) in spring,.
rv11LI''" Divide in spring (set·
p.148) j. Seeds (p.151) in spring
.11 50°F ( 10°C) 1. Take sem i-ripe
I cu11ing, (fJ.154) in late sununcr 1-
ME~THA Sc<' Minis. p.291 ,.
MO!\AR01\ Divide (sec
p.149) in miclspring: single
hud divisions are possible
(p.150) ,. Seeds
in spring (p.1.51) at 50°F
( I o•c) 1. Take stem-1ip
or basal stem <:uuings in
la1c spring (p/>.154- 6) j.
May nowcr in first year.
MORISIA MllNA~Tl IOS
(syn. M. hypog,u·a) Sow
seeds(sccp.151) i11
wimcr or carlr spring in
, · {," pots; keep in :, cold frame Ji.
, · Take root cullings (p.158) in
;\ winter momhs U-
KN IPNOflA ·A I.CAZAR"

2.03
A-Z OF PERENNIALS
M USA BANANA, PU.NTAJN
DIVISION in spring UI
Seeos when ripe U
Despite their treelike appearance, these
are tender herbs, although Musa basjoo
is a bit hardier than most. They produce
offseLS, or suckers, which may be
removed for propagation (see below). Pot
offseLS singly and keep at 70°F (21 °C)
until established. Shelter new planLS
from wind if needed.
Before sowing the large seeds (see
p.151) , file each carefully on one side,
then soak in hot water and allow 10 cool
for 24 hours. Sow one per pol and keep
al 75°F (24°C). Expect germination
within a month . Grow on seedlings at
the same temperature. New plants can
grow 10ft (3m) in a year.
PROPAGATING FROM BANANA SUC KERS
Clear the soil away 10 expose the sucliers
1 poi111 of origin a,ere of Musa basjoo). Use a
large, sl1ar1> lmife ro c ut downward and detach
the sudlcr wirh as ma11y of its roors as possible.
PAEONIA PEONY
DIVISION in early autumn 1
Seeos i n autumn U
Divide perennials (for shrubs, see p.136)
in autun1n by separating the tough roots
into pieces (see p.149 and right), each
with one lo several plump, terminal
buds. Move them only when necessary;
it can take more than two years for
divisions LO bloo,n. Cover the buds
with no more than an inch of soil,
then mulch lightly.
The seeds (see p.151 ) are doubly
dormant. Sow then1 in poLS and leave
outdoors to expose them LO winter cold,
or chill the seeds (see p.152) for several
weeks in the refrigerator before sowing.
During the first summer rooLS develop,
but the seeds then require a second
period of cold before shooLS ,viii appear.
Plants may take five years 10 reach their
full flowering size.
204
PAPAVER POPPY
DMSION in summer 1
SEEDS in summer or in s pring!
CUTTINGS in late autumn ,
Perennial poppies are mostly quite hardy.
Monocarpic species, such as P. triniifolium,
and smaller ones, such as P. atlanticum,
are difficult 10 divide but seed freely, so
are best raised from seeds, which come
reasonably true. Double or Oriental
types are mostly cultivars of P. orientale
or P. bracteatum and give mixed resulLS
from seeds so are divided or increased
fr01n cunings. (For annuals, see p.228.)
BANANA FRUITS ANO MALE FLOWER DIVISION
Culriva,·s O,ue Musa 'Ladys finge,-') grown Separate a clump into single crowns,
cl,iefly as onumientals rarely set seeds, but if each with some strong rooLS (see p.148),
they do, gather and sow as soon as d1ey ripen. for flowers next year.
SEEDS
Gather the seedpods just as they turn
brown, before the cap lifLS. The small
seeds need light 10 germinate: surface-
sow (see p.151) as soon as they are ripe
or in spring al 50°F ( l 0°C) lO gern1ina1e
in ten days. Transplant seedlings as soon
as they are large enough 10 handle: they
Dust tlu: cut surfaces dislike root disturbance. Seed-raised
2 with a fw ,gicide (see
inset) . fill in 1he soil
plants flower in the following season.
<ffotmd the parent plant. CUTTINGS
Remove any large or Oriental poppies reproduce naturally
damaged leaves from broken roots left in the soil, so root
from the suclier to cunings usually succeed. They should
reduce water loss. be Jin (8cm) long, inserted vertically
Pol in a container into free-draining soil mix (see p.158).
j ust a little larger Keep in a sheltered place over winter.
rhan t>1e roo,sroch. When the new shooLS have good rooLS
at 1l1e same depth as in spring, line out in a nursery bed or
before. Label, water, pot singly. Alternatively, root them in
and grow on in a sand, as for Eryngiwn (p.196). Rooted
warm, shaded plact. cuttings flower in the following year.
DIVIDING PEONIES PEONY SEEDHEADS
ivhe11 red, swelling buds appear, lift the crown and wasl, Some peonies (here Paeonia
off the soil. Tai« care nor to bncise 1he fleshy roots. Cut the cambessedesii) produce blacl, and red
crown inro seaions, each will, 1-5 buds (see inset). Dusi seeds in the same pods. Onl)' 1he black
1he cu1s wi1l1 fungicide ,o prevenr ro1. Replanr a1 lease 8/11 seeds are fertile, so discard the others
(20cm) aparr wilh the buds just below the surface. when gathering seeds for sowing.

P ELARGONIUM
~
·,/. .- _,.
.'. '
-~
. .
./
. ....'•,-.-, ~
~
, ·' ',
"
··...
.':o.'
·, / summer or in autumn,
PcJargonium
'A Happy Thought' cultivars of the zonal,
regal, ivy-, and scented-leaved geraniums
are more popular than the less showy
succulent species (see p.249). They are
tender and generally perpetuated from
year to year by taking cuttings in cold
climates, discarding the parent. The
single-nowered F 1 hybrids of zonal
geraniums, commonly used for bedding,
are raised from seeds.
SEEDS
Fl hybrids nower quickly from seeds
sown (see p.151) in late winter at 70°F
(21°C). Seedlings appear in 7-10 days;
grow then1 on at 59°F ( 15°C). Sow other
types in 1nidspring at 59°F (15°C).
CUTTINGS
Take softwood sten1 or stem-tip cuttings
after nowering to root in 7-10 days.
Rooted cuttings need a minimun1 of
45°F (8°C) over winter; plant out after
frost. For early cutting material, in
autumn lift, trim, and pot a few plants.
Keep fairly dry and frost-free. In late
winter, water and keep at 64°F ( 18°C) to
force into growth. Soft cuttings taken
then root in seven days. In cool to warm
climates, traditional semi-ripe cuuings
(see p.154) are less likely to rot, but
slow; they root at 59°F (15°C).
OTHER PERENNIALS
MYOSOTIOIUM HORTENSIA (syn ,
M. nobile) Divide carefully afier
flowering (sec p. l 48) lU, Sow
seeds (p.151) as soon as ripe or
in spring at 59°F (15°C) u.
Mvoson s Sow seeds (see p.151)
in early summer at SO"F (10°C)
j. Soft stem-tip cuuings (p.154 )
in summer of species such as
M. cofcn.s.oi and M. pufvinaris u.
(For a111111als, see ,,.227.)
NAUTtLOCA'-vx Sow seeds in
spring on moss (see p.208) at
63°F (17°C) l- Take stem-tip
cu11ings (p.154) in summer l,
NEMESIA Sow seeds (see p.J 5 J)
in spring at 59°F (15°C) j. Take
soft or semi-ripe Slem-tip
cuttings (p.154) in summer i.
(For a111111tds, see p.228.)
NEPENTHES Sow seeds in spring
(see p.151) at 81°F (27°C) l ,
M USA - P ER ICALLIS
P ENSTEMON
Seeos in early spring 1
Seeos in la1c wirner or
in m id·spring i CumNGS in summer or early amunm, Take semi-ripe stem-tip cuttings
SOFTWOOD CVT'TINGS from (see p.154) of all shon-lived
Sow seeds (see p.151) of perennials in late summer to early
spring to autumn I
SEMI- RIPE CUTTINGS in late. border perennials in this autu1nn. Those of smaller alpines
Commonly known as
genus at 59°F (15°C), and
those of alpines (seep. 164) in
a cold frame. ll is well worth
should be 1-2in (2.5-5cm) long;
border types at least twice as long.
In trays, pots or even in water, they
geraniums, perennial gathering seeds fro1n good should root in two weeks at 59°F
forms; they come fairly true. (15°C). They may also be rooted
Penstemons are good subjects in a moss roll (see J>.155) to save
for h)•bridization (see p.21) . space. Pot in free-draining, gritty
soil mix to avoid rot, and protect
PENSTEMON HART\VEGII rooted cuttings from cold.
Seedlings of border pe11stemo11s, sue/, Softwood cuttings of alpines taken
as rltis. sl,ould come fairly rnie, so in early summer can root well and may
i!,ey are IVCII worth gathering. nower in the same year.
P EPEROMIA
DIVISION in spring j
singly into pots when large enough to
Seeos in spring U
CUTTINGS at any time j handle (usually in 3-4 weeks) and grow
on at 64°F (18°C).
A wide range of selections in this tender
genus are in cultivation. Variegated CUTTINGS
cultivars must be divided to retain the Take softwood stem-tip cuttings (see
variegation. Seeds are rarely available. p.154) and insert around the edge of a
Plants with stems, such as P. obtusifolia pot. Place in a propagator or in a plastic
(Magnoliifolia Group), may be increased bag and keep at 21 °F ( l8°C). Cuuings
from stem-tip cuttings; those without, should root within three weeks.
such as P. caperata, from leaf cuttings. To take leaf cuttings (seep. 157) ,
select mature leaves and remove them
D1v1s10N with about 2in (5cm) of stalk (petiole) .
Divide (see pp.148-50) into 2-4 pieces. Insert around the edges of small pots
Pot singly; keep humid until established. filled with equal pans of coarse sand
Bottom heat of 64°F (18°C) helps. and peat, lO a depth of about ½in ( 1cm).
Cover to keep humid. It takes about
SEEDS four weeks at 70°F (21°C) for roots LO
Sow seeds (see p.151) at a temperature grow, and as long again for plantlets to
of 70°F (21 °C). Transplant the seedlings develop, from the bases of the petioles.
Take semi-ripe cuuings (p.154) OstPHAlOOES Divide after spring or just after nowcring
in spring j . Air layer in summer, nowcring (see p.148) u.Sow (see l'I'· J48-9) l- Sow seeds
as for Dieffe11bad1ia (p.194) l , seeds (p. J5 J) in spring at SO"F (J>. 15 1) in spring at 55-64°F
NEPETA Divide ( seep. 148) in (1 O"C) or in autumn: sow seeds (13-!8°C) l- ( f or bulbous and
spring or autumn , . Sow seeds in of 0 . lucilliae and keep in a wberous species, see p.275.)
spring (p.151) at SO"F (10°C) l- cold frame 11- PACHYSANDRA Divide in spring
Take soft stem -tip cuttings in 0PHIOPOGOl'I As for Liriope (see (see p.J48) l, Take semi-ripe
early summer: semi-ripe cuttings p.203) , . cu11ings (p.154) during summer
in early autumn (pp.154-5) l- 0RJGANUM See Culinary Herbs, and autumn ~.
NIEREMBERGIA Divide in spring p.291. PARAQUILEGIA Sow seeds (see
(sec r>-148) j . Sow seeds (p. J51) 0 STE0SPERMUM Sow seeds p.15 J) as soon as ripe in pots in
in spring at 59°F (15°C) !, Take • (see p. J5J ) in spring at 64°F griuy soil mix; keep in a cold
soft stem-tip cuuings in early ( l 8°C) i . Take softwood cuuings frame lj. Take basal stem cu1tings
autumn; keep frost-free in first in spring; semi-ripe cuttings in (p.156) in early summer: they do
winter (p.154) l- late summer (pp. 154-5) 1- not always root Ill,
OENOTHERA Divide l'ibrous- 0 URISIA Divide in spring (see PARNASSIA Divide in autumn or
roo,ed species in spring (see p. J 49) u. Sow seeds (p. J5 J) in spring (see p. 148) U- Sow seeds
p. J 48) 1, Sow seeds (p. J5 J) in equal parts grit, soil. and leaf (p.151) in autumn in pots: keep
spring at 50°F ( lO"C) i. Take mold as soon as ripe or in in a cold frame II,
sof1wood cu11ings (p.154 ) , spring; keep in a cold framc j . PERICALUS Sow seeds (see p. 151 )
especially or taprooted species in OXALLS Divide rhizomatous and at 59°F (l 5°C) in spri,1g or
late spring j. fibrous-rooted plants in early s ummer 1,
205
A-Z OF PERENNIALS
P ETUNIA
Seeos 111 spnng !
C UTTINGS in summtl' 1
The cu l1ivars in 1his
genus are popular
bedding plants.
Ah ho ugh perennial ,
they are usually raised
Pt"1u111" from seeds as annuals.
·Red C.,rpc,. Sow seeds (see p.151)
al S9°F ( 15°C) in ligh1 10 germinate in '
1e11 da)'S for Oowers in the same season.
Perennials, especiall)' the recent
selections such as Surfinias for wh ich
seeds are nol available, may be increased
from softwood s1em-1ip cuuings (see
p.154) . Ovcrwin1er new plants under
cover if necessar)'·
P HLOX
D IVISION in spl'ing 01' in earl)
:lltlumn Ji,
Seeos m c:;1rlr spnng ~
CUTTINGS in c:1rl) s1>1 ing. ul
late spring or in autumn 1
Division and basa l stem
cu11ings from perennials
PMox 1xm1c11/mo in lhis genus produce
·Grnf Zcpr<lin· Oowcring plants in the
same )'Car. Aerial pans of phlox are
prone 10 nema1ode infes1a1ion, which
is often not easil)' de1ec1ablc , so
herbaceous border kinds in particular
shou ld be increased from root cullings.
Seeds do 1101 usuall)' transmi t nematode
infestations, either. (For annuals,
sec p.228.)
0 1v 1SION
Divide on l)' healt h)' herbaceous ph lox
in spring (see p.148); alpines in earl)'
autumn. Mat-forming alpines do 1101
respond well to division. Single bud
divisions (see p.150) are also possible.
SEEDS
Sow seeds of species (see p.15 I) a1 59°F
(15°C) lo germinate in 7-10 da)'s. Shade
seedlings of wood land species. Plants
Oower in the second )'ear.
CUTTINGS
Alpines that have suitable shoolS, and
woodland species, ma)' be increased fro,n
basal stem cullings in earl)' spring (see
p.156). The)' will root at 59°F (\5°C).
Aherna1ivel)', take softwood s1e1n-ti p
cuuings in late spring; th is is a good
wa)' of increasing mat-forming alpines.
Cuttings of smaller alpine species (see
p.166) may be only lin (2.5cm) long;
rool them in a mixture of equal pans
sharp sand and sterili zed soil.
l n autumn, lift border phlox and take
l in (2.5cm) cuuings (sec p.158) from
thicker roots; place ho rizontall)' in lra)'s.
206
PRIMULA PRJ/v/ROSE
DMStON 111c:1rlr spnng or
~her Oowcnng U
Seeos in midspring U or m
hue sun,01n 10 a.u1umn,
C UTTINGS ill wi111c·r !l
S coOP1NG 111 hi1c wmlcr
A huge and varied
Prnnufn genus of someli mes
,..,,, shon-lived perennials,
which are increased in a variety of ways.
D IVISION
Regular division keeps cuhivars of
P. vulgc,ris and Pol)•anthus primroses
health)' but can weaken other species.
Pu ll apart fibrous-rooted clumps into
single, rooted crowns o r roseucs. Divide
species with woody roo1stocks such as
Primula allionii wi th a knife (see p.J 48).
Pot alpines, or replant larger divisions,
SCOOP ING ALPI NE PRIMROSES
Sdat ,•igornus ,,Imus (here of Primula
1clcmi<:ula1a) jusr ,1s d1ry ~,mr i11w gmwrh.
U)L' a )lwrp lmifc 10 c111 or scoop mu die crown
of each J'f<lllt anti fXJ>Osr 1J1e lOI' of the ruots.
P ULSATILLA PASQUE FLO\VER
SEEDS as soon :.l:,, ri1>.: OI' in au111nm i
C UTTINGS fr<,m .,ptmg rn autumn or Hl wmtcr
These plants are slow 10 propagate b)'
vegetative means but arc cas)' 10 raise
from seeds. Once established, the)'
shou ld not be disturbed; division and
root cullings are both challenging but
wonhwhile methods of increasing rare
or unusually llne forms, especiall)' of
alpines. Seeds give excellent resu lts if
the)' arc sown fresh .
SEEDS
-------,--------
Sow seeds (see p.164) from the feather)'
seedheads the n10111enl the)' arc ripe.
T he plumes tend 10 push the seeds out
of 1he soi l mix as the)' germinate: trim
off the plumes before sowing or gen ti)'
push the seeds back down. Seeds of
P. lwlleri and f~ vulgaris germinate in
10-14 da)'S, and the seedlings Oower in
the following year. Other species may
not germ inate until the following spring,
wheneve r seeds are sown. Do not allow
seedlings 10 become potbound.
10 grow on. Cut back b)' half the large-
leaved types, such as bog primroses and
candelabras, to reduce moisture loss.
U SEEDS
All species may be raised from seeds (see
p.164) . Seed-raised primroses have the
advantage of being virus-free, but some
garden species, especiall)' P. elat.ior,
P. veris, P. vulgaris, and candelabra l)'pes,
h)'brid ize read il)' unless isolated. In
genera l, seeds are set onl)' if both pin-
eyed (long St)'le, shon stamens) and
thrum-eyed (shon style, long stamens)
plants of the species are grown .
The seeds arc shon-l ived so are best
sown fresh, but seeds ma)' be sown in
spring al 59°F ( l5°C). For mosl
primroses, a n1oist , organ ic-rich, )'el
free-draining soi l mix is idea l.
u~e ,~ f11w brush rr, ,lust tht cut HJ(>IS wid1
2 f 1111gicidr (sec inset) ,o gucud <1gc,i11s1 rot.
Cove, c<1ch clun,p of scrJopt-'<l rc1ms \\•irh"
slurllow t"ycr of slu,rp smut.
CUTTINGS
,u Lift and divide (see p.167) strong, multi·
crowned pla11ts into ind ividual shoots,
or rooted pieces, in spring after
Oowering, or in autumn. Each shoot
should have a 2-3in (S-8cm) stem and a
rew roots, if possible. Pot in equal pans
or sharp sand and peat, making sure 1ha1
the bud is just above the surface of the
soil mix. Place in a semi-shaded co ld
frame; keep moist, not wet. Provide
more light'whcn new growth is visible.
In winter, lake root cuu ings (see
p.167) from a vigorous, muhicrowned
plant. Remove onl)' the thickest, healthy
roots and discard the paren1 , which wi ll
not recover. Cut the roots into l '/-2in
(3-5cm) lengths. Insert in a gritty soil
mix so that the upper ends are just level
with the surface. Keep moist but not
wet. Pot after shoots appear.
Material for cuu ings can be obtained
without disturbing a container-grown
parent plan t by allowing it 10 root into
a sand bed, as for E,yngium (see p.196).

Germination is most succcssrul ;r the
seeds arc exposed 10 light (cover then,
on ly lightly with vermiculite, 1101 so il
mix) and kept moist and 1101 100 warm.
CUTTINGS
Root cuuings (see p.167) can be u sed 10
propagate color forms or P. de111iculata;
cut thicker roots or the parent plant into
l 1/, -2in (4-Scm) pieces. Take rosene or
s ingle !ear c unings or Petiolaris
primroses as for Ramo11da (see below).
SCOOPING
Scooping, either in open ground (see
below) or in pots, is userul for alpines
such as P. der11icul<1w and lear)' primroses,
which produce a leary tuft at soil level.
Treat the removed 1o pgrow1hs as roseue
cuuings (see ,,.166).
\Vlu·n rhr IIC\\' shoats {fff l- 2in (2.5-5nn )
3 wll. l~{t rnd1 ,,rmu. 1<lhf cmc nor ro clcmwgc
irs roob. Pull ir c~1x11 r gnrtl) into smglt· n>S('Ut;.'S,
each wuh strong mots. Trent llS mstttt· cuuiugs,
RAMONDA
OIVISION in cad) summer U
S EEDS in cMI) or m,d,omnu., r lU
CUTilNGS m ,ummc.•r or i:.1rl\' autumn iU
These evergreen perennia ls rot if
exposed 10 winter moisture. Divide
congested plants carerull)' with a sharp
knife int o individual , rooted roseues (sec
p./67): pot and grow on before planting.
Ra111011d<1 set abundant, dustlike
seeds, which arc easil)' lost once the
s mall seed capsules ripen. Sow the seeds
thinly (see p.164) as soo n as ripe on
organic, moist soil mix. Leave seedlings
und is turbed for the first winter and
transplant when large enough 10 handle
in the spring.
Small roselle cuuings, or even
single leaves, may be severed (see p.166)
retaining as much s tem as possible - at
least ½in (1cm). Insert them in grill)'
soil mix or in equal pans of sharp sa nd
and peat in a shaded propagating rrame
outdoors. The)' are slow to root. Plants
may bloom in the following )'Car but
will Oowcr more freely after 18 months.
RANUNCULUS BUTTERCUP,
CROIVFOOT
D1v1S10N m autumn or 1n spring 1
Se.eos iu spring or from ..u,nmcr 10 :m1umn JiU
Most perennials in this large genus are
quite hardy; Ranunculus asiaticus is
much less so. Buuercups increase
naturally from seeds; division is often
quicker. (For aquatic species, see p.168.)
01VISION
----------
Divide herbaceous plan ts after nowering,
most alpine species in spring. Separate
each plant into single. rooted crowns (see
p./48). Pot alpine divisions; replant or
line out in a nurse1y bed herbaceous
border kinds, such as R. aconitifolius.
SEEDS
--,--------,---
Sow seeds of R. c1sia1icus in earl)' spring
at a temperature of 59°F ([S°C). The
seedlings mar nower in the first su mmer
before they d ie down for the winter.
In m ost o ther species, seed dormancy
1nus1 be broken. V-1hen the seeds are
ripe in su mme r or autumn, the)' quickly
fall awa)', often while sti ll green. The)'
are best gathered jus t before this point,
i1111nedia1ely sown in p ots, and then
exp osed 10 winter cold (see pp.151-2).
Use a gri u y, soi l-based seed mix.
Place in a sheltered place such as a
cold frame. Fresh seeds often germinate
in the following spring but older (black
or brown) seeds, and seeds of some
Austra lasian species, take two or more
years 10 germinate.
O THER PERENNIALS
l'llLllMl> Divide in spring ( see /J. 1-+8) 1-
Seccls (/J.1.51) in spring a1 S9°F (I s °C) 1,
Pt-tc >R\IIL \I Divide in spring (sn, ,,. J-18)~pot
and grow on leaf fons with roots l- Sow
seeds (/J.l.51 ) in spring a1 6-+°F ( 18°C) 1.
Pm -.,,u~ Divide in spring (~er ,,.1'18) 1- Sow
cleaned seeds (11. 151) in spring a1 59°F
(1s·cJ 1.
l'LtCTRA ~ TI JL>Sow seeds (se<' /J.1.51) in
sprmg a1 70°F (21 °C) 1-Semi-ripe cunings
in la1c summer as for Solcnostt:mun (JJ.209 ) !.
Po oOPlt\'LLU'1 Divide (Sf'.(' /J· 149) 111 spring 1-
Sow seeds (1>1>- J5 J-2) in autumn 1,
l' ou. \lONll.'\I Divide in early spring ( s«~e
p.148) U- Sow seeds (p. I 5 I) in spring
at 50°F ( I0°C) l-
Divide in
1>0 1YV01'.,\Tl!!\I
spring (see /I· 1-+9) I- Sow
seeds (p.151 ) in autumn:
keep in a told frame;
germination may be s low
and erra1 ic U-
Po11., nuA (srn . Comanm1) Divide
herbaceous plams (see ,,. 148) in
spring 1. Sow seeds (p. 151) when
rip;, in spring; keep in a cold frame 1-
P ETUN IA - SAINTPAULIA
SAINTPAULIA AFRlCAN V!OLET
D IVISION Ill-,pring.
S EEDS m ~prmg U
CurnNGS Hl spring or :u an)'
time when plams are io
grow1h,
The easiest way 10 raise
African violets is b)' leaf
S!1i1111umh,1 cu ttings. Division may
'Brighi Cyc,· be u sed for any of these
tender perennials; som e specialized
Oowcr-co lo r patterns (ch imeras) are
propagated from nower-stalk plantlets.
DI VISION
Ca rerully tease apan roscnes, making
sure each has roots (see p.167). Pot and
tent in plastic bags for three weeks in a
shaded , wann p lace until cs1ablishcd.
SEEDS
Sow seeds on a la)•Cr of moss s pread
over seed soil mix (see p.165). At 70°F
(21 °C) germination occurs in 2-3
weeks. Seedlings develop slowly; when
large enough 10 hand le, pot si ngl)', Once
establis hed, g row them at 59°F (15°C).
CUTTINGS
Ta ke fully developed, new leaves with
their stalks (petioles) as cuuings. Insert
in pots, ei ther singly or several around
the edge (see p.157). Roots will be
produ ced after a month and p lan tl ets a
m on th later. Detach the plantlets from
each petiole and pot individu ally when
they are large enough 10 handle.
P1tl ~ tLLA J\s for Poknwnium 1-
PL L\IO~ \RIA Divide after nowcring or in
spring (p. 149) 1-Seeds (/J, I 51) in spring al
50°F ( 10°C) 1, Take root cunings in Willier 1-
Divide mat in spring or earl)'
1~\0l'LIA
summer (sc,· />. l 67) u.
Sow seeds (/J, 164)
thinly in rich. griuy soil mix in spring U,
Sof1woocl cu11ings (p.166) in summer of
new Y.- ¾in ( l-2c.:m) shoots; rooting erratic*·
RttEL'M Divide in late wimer as Paco11ill (see
p.204) !, Sow seeds<,,. 151) al 5001' (10°C)
in au1umn 1, (For vegc1<1b/c, sec p.306.)
ROl>GCRSIA Divide in spring ( sec
/I· H9) 1. Sow seeds in spring on
moss as for Stirraccni,1
(11,208) a1 500F
oo•c) 1.
RUDBECKIA Divide in
spring (sec /J,149) 1- Sow seeds
(/J, 151) in spring al 50°F
(l0°C) I- Basal Siem cunings
(p.156) in spring 1, ( Fo,
c1111111als, see ,,.228.)
R VD IIECKIA FUI.Gll);I VAR.
SPECIOSA ·V1e1 J'E'S LI TTLE Suzy•
207
A-Z OF PERENNIALS
SALVIA SAGE
D MSION in spring'
Seeos in s1>ring,
BASAL STEM CUTTINGS in lale
spring i
STEM·TIP CUTTINGS in lale
summer or in early aulumn 1
Perennial species fron1
SClh'i" sple11de11s this large genus or quite
Cleopaira Series hardy to very tender
planlS may be raised from seeds.
Divide border perennials such as Salvia
nemorosa and S. x superba. Take basal stein
cuuings from border plants, for exa1nple
SANSEVIERIA SNAKE PU.NT
Drv1S10N in early spring,
CUTTINGS al any time H
or these tender planlS, on ly Sansevieria
trifasciata and ilS forms are commonly
grown in temperate areas. Variegated
cultivars can be propagated only by
division to perpetuate the leaf-
pauerning (Culling-raised plants have
unvariegated leaves).
DIVISION
Divide large clumps with a spade or
sharp knire when plants are dormant or
about to start into growth (see p.148).
This may be ahnost an)' lime, but early
spring is prererable. Pot into small pots,
SARRA CE NIA PITCHER PU.NT
DIVISION in s1>ri1\g'
SEEDS in Spring H
Sarracenia puo·purea is quite hardy:
other species are much less so. Do not
let divisions or seedlings dry out.
0JV1SION
Divide large clu1nps just berore new
growth begins (see p.148). Cut off rooted
crowns with a sharp knife, pol in live
SOWING PITCHER PLANT SEEDS ON MOSS
Fill a J ½i11 (9c m) pot witlo soilless seed mix
1 10 wirhh1 ¾in (2cm) of the rim amlflnn. Rub
some niois1 sphagnum moss through a fine-mesli
sieve to gi\,e it a fine tcxwre.
208
S. guaranitica (S)' ll . S. concolor). For
annuals, see p.228; ror the culinary sage ,
S. officinalis, see p.291.
DIVISION
To divide established plants (see p.148),
cut the woody rootstock into 2-4 pieces
with a knire and replant.
SEEDS
Seed pods ripen successively rrom the
base or the nower spike and shed their
seeds within two days; gather ripe pods
keep as warm as possible, and water
sparjngly unti l plants establish.
C UTTINGS
Prepare leaf cuuings (see right and
p.157) from newly mature, healthy
leaves. Cut each leaf horizontally into
pieces, then insert these in pots or
trays of sandy rooting medium. lL does
not maucr ir cuuings in an)' row touch.
Place in bright, indirect light at about
70°C (21°C); leave uncovered and keep
the medium just moist. 1r the cuuings
are basal end down in the compost,
new roots and shoots should develop
from the bases in 6-8 weeks.
sphagnum moss or possible) and keep
moist at a temperature of 59°F ( l5°C).
SEEDS
Seeds germinate well ir fresh , moist, and
exposed to light - old seeds germinate
erratically, ir at all. Cold stratification (see
p.152) improves results from old seeds.
For a reliably moist environment that
mimics the natural habitat or these bog
Kill weeds seeds in 1he moss by soaliing it
2 in boiJing wate,: \Vhen it is cool, squeeze
out the excess water: Add a ¼in (5 mm) layer
of this moss to tloe pol of soil mix.
frequently. Sow seeds (see p.151) at
61-64°F (l6-l8°C). Protect seedlings
fro1n cold, ff necessary.
C UTTINGS
Take basal stem cuuings (see p.156)
from new shoots that are about Jin
(8cm) tall. Root at 59°F ( l 5°C) to
Oower in the same season. Take sort and
sem i-ripe stem-tip cuuings (see p.154)
from new, nonOowering growth. Pot
rooted cuuings and keep frost-free over
winter. Plant out in late spring.
L EAF CUTTINGS OF 5ANSEVIERIA
Prepare a 1ray wit/, a mix of eqowl parls
peat cmd smul. Cut newly mature leaves
(11ere of Sansevieria lrifasciata) imo 2in
(5cm) sec1io11s (sec left). h1ser1 1he c1111i11gs,
Jowcr edge downwc"d, in fhe medium in
rows. Space the rows 2i11 (5cm) apar1.
planlS, surface-sow seeds on moss (see
below). Keep the seeds moist by sinking
the pot in a larger one of 1noss, kept
permanently damp, or cover with a
sheet or glass or plastic, water from
below, and ventilate regularly. Rainwater
is best since it is lime-free. Germination
takes 2-3 weeks at 61°F (16°C). When
large enough to handle, pot seedlings
singly in sphagnu1n n1oss or soil mix.
Sic\'td moss lias
fine surface
for sowi,ig
\Vau,· moss
in outer· fX>l _ _..,.~
P11111ge tJ,e prepared pot into a larger one
3 fi lled with moist splwgmmo moss. Sow tloe
seeds thinly over the surface of the i1111er pot.
Place in humid. bright sloade at 61°F (16°C).

SAXIFRAGA SAXIFRAGE
DMSK>N in spring or autumn ,
SEEDS in aurnmn or spring j
CUTTINGS m la1e spring j or U
B ULBILS in early '-Umnu;r l
Division is the easiest
way to increase these
plants, except for the
S«xifraga cushion plants. Mal-
sane1a or cush ion-forming
types may be gro,vn from cuuings;
species from seeds.
DIVISION
Carefu lly tease apart (see p.148) 11brous-
rooted chnnps such as Saxifraga fonu nei
(syn. 5. cortusifolia var. fortunei) in mid-
spring before growth begins, for nowers
in the same year. Pull off rooted roseues
or offsets of species such as 5. x urbium
and 5. paniculc1tC1 (syn. 5. aizoon) after
Oowcring; grow on in pots or nursery
beds. Stems of 5. stolo11ifera can be
encouraged 10 form plantlcts (see p.150).
SEEDS
Sow fresh seeds in pots , covered lightly
with grit. Those sown in autumn and
exposed 10 ,vinter ch ill in a cold frame
(see p.152 and p.J 64) germ inate more
evenly. Spring-sown seeds germinate in
2-3 weeks. Plants Oower in 2-3 )'ears.
CUTTINGS
Treat roseues without roots as cuuings
(see p.166); remove with ½-!in {l-2cm)
of stem; root at 59°F (15°C) in gritty
soil mix for Oowers the next year.
Cuuings from alpines may be till)'; root
them in pure sand or pumice (see p.167).
BULBI LS
5. gra11ulata produces bulbils in leaf axils
(see p.26) as it dies clown in summer.
Store in moist sand and "sow" in early
spring in trays in seed soil mix at 50°F
(l 0°C). Plant out in the following year.
5HORT1A
DMSION in late spring U
Seeos when ripe or in earl)' spring U
BASAL STEM cumNGS in earl)' summer Ui
STEM•TIP CUTTINGS in hue ::.ummcr ,u
These alpines (syn. Scl1izocodo11) are set
back by disturbance, develop slow!)', and
arc very vulnerable to drying out. Divide
after Oowering (see p.148). If available,
sow seeds (see p.164) at 50°F (10°C) in
rich, acidic to neutral soil mix; do not
disturb seed lings in the first year.
Take basal stem cuttings or stem-
tip cuuings (see p.166) from strong,
l½-2½in (4-6cm) shoots; insert in pots
in equal parts of sharp sand and organic
soil mix. Rooting of cuuings is slow and
not always successful.
5ISYRINCHIUM
m :,pring or Ill e-atly :lltllllllll '
O IVISION
SEEDS from summer to atllmnn or in :i-pring l
Divide perennials in this gen us,
espec ially variegated forms, ensuring
each leaf-fan has roots (see p.149). Many
self-sow prol ifically. Sow seeds (see p.151
and p.164) as soon as they are ripe or in
spring at 59°F (15°C).
SMITHIANTHA TEMPLE BELLS
D MSK)N in httc wmlcr !
S EEDS Ill spring U
The rhizomes of these tender plants
increase readi ly; divisions (see p.149)
Oower within a year. If stock is scarce,
cut the rhizomes in half.
Sow the seeds on a layer of fine
sphagnum moss over seed soil mix as
for Sarrace11ia (see facing page) at 70°F
(21 °C). Genni nation takes 10-14 days
but the seedlings grow slowly. Lower the
temperature to 64°F (18°C} when· the
seedl ings are established.
OTHER PERENNIALS
SANGUISORBA Di\,ide in Spring (sc, p.1 49) , .
Sow seeds (p. 151) in autumn; keep cool in
<:old frame~germinal ion may he erratic u.
$Al'ONARIA Divide in spring (see p. 148) , .
Seeds (11. I 5 I) in spring at 50°F (l 0°C) ,.
Soft s1cm-1ip cuuings (p.154) in spring l-
$CABIOS,\ Divide in rnidspring (sec 1'· M8) ,.
Seeds (11.151) in spring at 59°F (J 5°C) l,
Basal stern c uuings (p. 156) in late spring l-
Scmzosrrus Divide in spring (see 11.148) l-
Seeds (p.15 I ) in spring a1 59°F ( L5°C) , .
ScROPIIUL,\RIA Divide in spring, especially
variegated plants (sec p. I 48) ,. Sow seeds
(p. 15 1) in spring at 50°F (I0°C) l- Take
basal stem c uttings (11.156) in springl.
SCUTELIARI,\ Divide in spring (sec p. 148) ,.
Sow seeds (p. J.5 t) in spring at 50°F (IO"C)
or as soon as ripe i. Take sof1woocl cuu ings
in la1c spring or basal s tem cut1ings in
spring (pp. 154-6) ,.
SEu\GINELL,\ Divide carefully in spring (see
p. 149) l- Sow s pores 35 for ferns (p. I59) ,.
Take s 1em-1ip cuttings in spring (p.154):
the)' root quickly in organic. moisL soil
mix at 70°F (2 !°C) l-
StMtAQun tGIA As for Aq11ilegi<1
(see p. l 89) l-
SENECIO As for Schizosry lis , .
SmALCEA Divide in spring (se,· p. t 48)
,. Sow seeds (p.15!)
in spring at 50"F
(10°C) l- Take basal stem
cuttings (p.156) in spring l-
S1LENE Divide
(sec p.148)
5TRELITZIA REGINAE
SALVIA - STRELITZIA
SOLENOSTEMON COLEUS,
Fl.AME NETTLE, PAINTED NETTLE
SEEDS from early spring 10 early ~ummcr l
CumNGS from earl) spring to late summer,
Of these tender plants, cultivars and
hybrids of 5. scu1ella,ioidcs (syn. Coleus
blumei) arc the most popular
and widely grown.
SEEDS
Seeds (see p.151) provide an eas)' way
Lo raise h)•brids. Most come fai rly true;
some have pleasing variations; discard
poor seedlings. Surface-sow seeds and
keep moist , at 64°F (18°C), in good
light 10 germinate in 10-14 days. Grow
on established seedlings at a minimum
temperature of 59°F (15°C).
CUTTINGS
Take softwood stem-lip cuuings (sec
p.154) from named cu ltivars. They root
readily in a free-draining medium such
as rockwool, or even in water on a
bright, warm windowsill (see p.156).
They root in 10-14 days at 64°F (18°C).
after flowering U- Sow seeds (p. t 5 I) as soon
35 ripe or at 50°F ( l 0°C) in spring l- Take
basal s1en, cuuings in spring (f>.156); ½in
( I cm) long of alpines,.
S~IILACINA Oi\ridc after nowcring (sec
p. 148) l- Sow seeds (p.151) in autumn and
expose lo cold; germinates slowly U,
SOLDA"' ' '' ' Divide (see I'· I 48) regularly
after flowering 10 keep vigorous l- Sow seeds
(p.15 1) as soon as ripe in moist. organic soil
mix: keep in a cold frame U-
SoLEIROLIA (syn . f-ldxirrc) Ol\,ide in late
spring (sec ,,. 148) , .
SnLIDAGO As for Scal>ios,1 ,.
x Souo,\!>11:R LU 1•~> (syn . x S. 1,yl>ridus)
Divide in late winter (p.148) , .
SPAI MYl't-1\1.U lM Divide in spring (sec
p.149) ,. Sow seed s (1>. 15 I ) as soon as
available at 75°F (24°C) U,
Sr11AtRAI CEA (syn. tliamna) Sow seeds (see
p. 151) in spring at 59°F (l5°C) l- Take basal
stem cuttings (p.J.56) in spring,.
STAGIIV> (syn. Bewnica) Divide in spring
(sec p.148). Single bud divisions are possible
(p.150) l- Sow seeds (p.15 J) in spring at
59°F <15°c) ,.
STOKCSIA L.AEVI~Divide in
midspring (sec p. M8) l-
Sow seeds (p.151) in autumn
or spring a, 59°F (\5°C) ,.
Take root cuuings (1>.158) in
lalc wir11er u.
STREUTZI,\ Detach roo1cd suckers
carefully after flowering. as for
Mus" (see p.204) ,. Sow seeds
(p.15 J) in spring at 70°F
c21°c>u.
209
A-Z OF PERENN IALS
STREPTOCARPUS CAPE PRI1\1ROSE
D IVISION m :,prmg 1 D IVISION
S eeos 111 sprmg U
C UTTINGS from spring 10
autumn i
Some of the tender
perennials in this genus
are monocarpic. The
SH·rpwrnrpus multiple-leaved species
rnulcsccns and cuhivars ma)' be
divided or grown from leaf cuLLings.
Seeds are useful for raising new hybrids
and especially species that produce
only a single leaf, such as Srreptocarpus
grandis. A few species, for example
5. saxo1111n, have steins, the tips of
wh ich can be taken as cuttings.
D IVISION
Cut or pull established clumps apan (see
p.148). Pol each rooted crown si ngly.
Kept at 15°C (59°F), the)' root well in
three weeks and flower in the same year.
SEEDS
Sow seeds on a layer of fine moss as for
Sarracenia (see p.208) at a temperature
of 70°F (2l°C). Seedlings will appear in
10-14 days but develop slowly al first.
Flowers will appear in the second year
and often in the first.
C UTTINGS
Take stem-tip cu LLings from healt h)•
plants (see p.154) at any time when they
are in growth. Kept at 59°F ( 15°C), the
T HALICTRUM M EADO\V RUE
D IVISION in mid~pring !
S EEDS as soon as ripe or in
earl) spring U
The majority or the
rhizomatous perennials
in this genus arc quite
hardy, although a few
T11111icinu11 are less so. The popular
,~qwlcgiifollum cullivar 'Hcwilt's
Double' is sterile and can be increased
only b)' division. Divide the rhizomes
carefully as growth begins (see p.149),
Divisions can be slow LO re-establish and
may not flower until the second )'Car.
Sometimes rhizomes with some roots
and buds at the edges of a clump may be
detached without necessarily lifting the
parent. Pot and grow on in part shade
until established.
Gather seeds just before they ripen
and turn brown; once ripe , they are
rapidly dispersed. They are best sown
fresh: older seeds germinate erratically
because of embryo dormanc)' (see
p .152). Sow the seeds (see p .151) in
a sheltered place such as a cold fraine.
Seed-raised plants take 2-3 years 10
reach flowering size.
210
cuLL ings should root in 2-3 weeks. New
plants will flower in the same season.
To take leaf cuttings, cut a mature
leaf in half along the midrib (see p.157)
or for a greater number of plants, into
smaller sections (see below). lnsen each
section vertically, cut or basal edge
down, into a deep tray of rooting medium
at 64°F (18°C). Plantlets appear along the
cul veins in about four weeks; when the)'
are well developed, detach them and pol
singly to grow on.
Roob
g,.O\\ / 10 111
_ rnr \•d u
CHEVRON _oflrnf- TRANSVERSE
CUTTINGS CUTTINGS
LEAi' CUT'rJ NGS 01' CAPE PRl ~IROSE
Cui a leaf into dtr,•mns or trnnsH:rsc stcrions lit
leasr I in (2.5cm) clccp. S1e111d tl,c cuuings. basal
end doh11tw{,rd, in mws in a rrny of rooting
medium . Lighrlyfin11, label. a11d water.
TOLMIEA PIGGYBACK PLANT
DIVISION m ,pnng'
P LANTLETS 3l any l1111C'
Tofmie,1 111e11ziesii is the only species.
Mature plants can easily be divided in
spring (see p.148). An alternative is to
exploi t the natural process by which
new plantlets form on the leaves, at the
point where the blade (la1nina) and stalk
PRO PA G ATI G PIG GYBA C K PLANTLETS
Snip off" healthy lccif (here o/Tolmica
1 mcnziesii 'Taffs Golti') w11l1 111>lc111tlct m the
to/> of the leaf swll1 (petiole). Retain ½-1,n
(l-2.5cm) of the petiole. fill a Jin (8011) pot
wit11 ,1mix of equal pans pem and smul.
T RADESCANTIA
in sprmg !
Seeos 111 ~pring, U
Cun1NGS :u :my tune,
The hardier species
respond well 10 being
divided . Tender types
are more often
T.-atlesrnnri11 propagated from
~dnina cuttings. All species
may be raised from seeds , although
variegated forms do not come true.
DIVISION
In cold climates, divide (see p. 148)
hardy border kinds only. Pull apart the
co1npac1 , fleshy crowns carefully. Roots
ma)' be fibrous or tuberous.
SEEDS
Sow seeds (see p.151) and keep al 59°F
(l5°C), or 64°F ( 18°C) for tender
species. Seedlings should appear in as
li ule as seven days. Plants flower in
their first or second season.
C UTTINGS
Stein cuttings (see pp.154-6) of creeping
forms, for example the variegated
Tradescantia fluminensis, root easily, even
in jars of water on a windowsill, if ther
are taken from plants in active growth.
Alternatively, insert fou r cuttings around
the edge of a pot in rooting 1nediu1n. In
two weeks, they may be potted on as
one plant.
(petiole) meet - hence the common
na1ne. Detach a leaf with plantlet when
the plant is in active growth and pot
(see below) or. in open ground , weigh
the leaves onto the soil with stones.
After a few months, sever the leaf stalks
10 detach rooted plan tlcts as for rooted
runners (see p.150).
folcl down tlie IC<if ciro1111CI the base of the
2 plant let to meet the petiole. 8111y rite lecif
cmd petiole so rhat the ~lcmtlct si1s j ust 011 rite
surface (see inset) and Jinn . 1\/crt,r cmd leave in
a light. wa,·,n place IQ root (usually 2-4 weeks).

T RICYRTIS TOAD LILY
OMSION in early spriog,
S EEDSin aulumn U
CUTTINGS from rmd- 10 late summer IU
These plants have rhizomes or creeping,
rooting stems (stolons). The tough
clumps of rhizomes can be lifted and
cul apart when dormant (see p.149),
or rooted stolons may be lifted and
TAKING STEM CUTTI NGS OF TOAD LILIES
Toad lilies occasio,wlly p.-otluce tiny bulbils
1 in the leaf «~ils, often fon11i11g 1>lm11lc1s (see
insel). To t·xploit tl1is. ttthc stem currings in
early summer just as flowtr bulls are bcgi1111i11g
to form a nti the stems (here of T. hina) stiffen.
Rt~mo,·r a long. healthy, 11011flowcri11g srcm.
TRILLIUM
Otv1s10N ar1cr flowering!
SEEOS when npc or in winter IU
SCOAINO after nowcnng ,U
Divide rhizomes in10 pieces (see p.149),
each with at leas, one bud and some
roots. They may reestablish slowly. Slice
rhizomes of robust species into I ¼-2in
(3-5cm) lengths or score them i11 situ
(see below); side-buds form which ma)'
be removed after a year and potted. Sow
seeds in pots (see p.15 /) and expose to
winter cold. Germination is slow; plants
take five years Lo flower.
SCORING TRILLI UM RHl20M ES
Score around the exposed rhizome.just below
the gmwing point. Dust die cut with fungicide,
cover, cmd leavt· for ti yea,: Lift rl1e rhi:::ome and
dewch and pat the offsets (see inse1) singly.
detached. Plants may flower in the same
year. All species can be raised from
seeds. These ripen late in the g rowing
season so are not always available in
cold climates. Seeds should be sown
immediately and exposed to winter
cold (see p.152); germ ination may be
delayed. Expect flowers in three years.
Discard
soft 11,. _ _
) 2
Discord the soft
tip of the stem
and divide rhe
r remaindc,· into
sections, cuuing
straight across rhe
stem abo"e each leaf
node. Each culling
retains one leaf
rhm will provide
food for the
developing bulbil.
Prepam a cell or seed
trny with gritty
rooring medium.
t-- - l,t1t'nt0(lal
Mnn cutting
O THER PERENNIALS
STROUltANTHLS Oi,•ide in spring (sec p.148)
,. Seeds (p. 151 ) in spring al 59°F ( I 5°C) ,.
Take basal stem or sort stem-tip cuttings
(J>p.154 mu/ 156) in spring,.
SrROM,INTIIC Divide in spring (see p. 149) ,.
Seeds (p. I51) in spring at 70"F (21 °C) , .
SrnOPHORl.:M Divide after nowcring (sec
p. 148) ,. Sow seeds (p.151) in spring at 59°F
( I 5°C) ,.
Sn1PHYANOR,\ Sow seeds (sec p. 151) in
wimer and early spring al 59°F (15°C) ,.
Sn1PH\'TUM Divide (seep. I48) in spring;
only wa)' to increase , aricgatcd forms 1.
1
Seeds (p. 151) in spring al 50°F ( 10°C) ,.
Take roOI cuuings (p.1 58) in winier,.
TACCA Divide rhizomes in spring (sec />.149)
or when plants start into growth ,. Surface·
sow seeds (p. 15 1) in spring at 77°F (25°C) ,.
TANACE1'UM (syn . 8(1fSamita, Pyrethmm)
Divide in spring (see p. I48) ,. Sow seeds
(p.15 l) in spring at 50°F (I 0°C) , .
Take basal s tem cuuings in spring,.
TELLIMA GRANDI FLORA Divide in spring (see
,,. I 48) ,. Sow seeds (p. I 5 I) as soon as ripe,.
TLrRANHIA Divide in spring (see p.148) ,.
Sow seeds (p. 151) as soon as ripe or in
spring at 6+-70°F (18-21°C) ,.
T1tERMOPSIS Divide (see ,,. I 49) in spring or
STR EPTOCARPUS - TRO LLI US
One plant may furnish several stems for
leaf-bud cuuings (see p.154 and below),
inserted into a griuy rooting ,nedium. In
humid conditions, a bulbil the size of a
wheat grain will fonn in the leaf axil of
each cuuing before winter, and the leaf
will die. In spring. new plants c1nergc.
Pot or plant out to flower in two years.
-
3 l11str1 clie cuttings so rluu the lct1\'CS sir 011
the surfllcc and do nor rouch. Place in a
lwmid f shaded place with gentle bmtom heat.
The lcn,•ts will dit away as the cutthigs root
4 and /,.,lbils f1>rm. New shoots may form
l>cfore the cuttings become dormam over wi,ucr
(see inset). Keep ,hem just moisr until spring.
autumn U- Soak seeds for 2-1 hours in cold
water. then sow (sec 1>. 151) in spring at 59°F
(l 5°C); germination ohcn poor u,.
TIILASPI Sow seeds (1>. 15 1) when ripe or in
early spring in pors; keep in a cold fra me,.
Sort stem-tip cuuings (1,.1.54) in spring,.
THL'~BERGIA Sow seeds (see p.151) in spring
at 70"F (2 1°C) , . Take semi-ripe cuuings
(p. 151) in early autumn,.
TtAREUal Divide in spring (sec p.149) ,.
Sow seeds (p. l 5 0 in autumn; keep in a
cold frame,.
TO\\'NSE'1DIA Sow seeds (see p.164) as soon
as ripe in pots in grill)' soil mix; keep in a
cold frame,. Take rosclle cuuings (p. 166)
in spring with as much stem as possible U!-
Ohen short-lived; propagate regularly.
TRACHELIUM (syn. Diosphaem) Sow seeds
(see f'· 164) of T. caeruleum and alpines in
spring al 50"F (IO"C) ,. Take sohwood
cullings (p.1 54) in s pring U .
TR1 r-011uM Divide (seep. 148) or de1ach
rooted stems in spring 1. Sow seeds in spring
at 50°F (I0°C) after soaking in cold water
fo r 2-1 hours (pp. 15 1-2) ,.
TROLUL'S Divide a[tcr Oowering (sec I'· I 48) ,.
Sow seeds (1>.151) as soon as ripe or in
spring; may take two years to germ inate u.
211
A-Z OF PERENNlALS

TROPAEOLUM VERBASCUM MULLEIN

in :.pnng
DIVISIO N
SEEDS in au1umn ! to JiU
LAYERING in late wimcr or in
early !->prmg i
The most widely grown
herbaceous perennial
in 1his genus is the
fro1><1fohon name nasLUrtium
>/1<C1os11111 (Tropaeolum specioswn).
For annuals see p.229; for tuberous-
rooted species see p.278.
DIVISION
Divide rhizo1nes before new growth
begins (see p.149) ; pull 1hem apan and
curl long sections in to pols. Small pieces
may be treated as root cu ttings (see
p.158). Most Tropaeolwn resent root
disturbance, and success is variable.
SEEDS
Seeds of perennials have shon viability,
and germination is often erratic. Sow
(see p.15 I) as soon as ripe, one seed 10 a
pot LO avoid root disturbance. If needed ,
store seeds in moist peal. Soaking older
seeds in cold water for 12-24 hours may
improve germ ination. Keep in a cold
frame. Seed-raised plants may take
3-5 years to bloom.
LAYERING
Simple layer (see fl. I 06) long shoots,
covering them with lin (2.5cm) of soil.
u 0MSION in s prlng !
Seeos in ~pnng !
CUTTINGS in l:.1tc :nuumn i
Perennials in this genus (syn. Celsia)
that form substantial clumps, such as
Verbascum 11 ig11m1, can be divided.
Cullivars will not come true to l)'PC
from seeds, but the resulting seedlings
may include auraclive plants. Shon-
lived perennials such as V. 'Helen
Johnson' do not form large clumps; root
cullings offer an alternative lO division .
( For annuals wul bie11nials, see p.229.)
D1v1s10N
Divide clumps (see p.148) before they VERBJ\SCUM 'G,ll NSBOROUCH'
start into growth, Lo nower that year. RoseUt·fo, mi11g pe1c1111iah, !iuch <lS d1is cull iw1r,
occasionally produce offset roselus. TJ1cse nwy
SEEDS be c"rcfully ,lcr"cltcd mu/ repla11red wirhour rhc
Sow seeds al 59°F (15°C) lO germinate need to dislufb the parent plllni.
in 10-14 days. Seedlings usually nower
in the second year. Some Verbascwn self- p.158). Place horizontally in a tray of
sow free!)' in the open garden. soil mix and poi when rooted in spring.
Discard 1he parent. Con1aincr-grown
CUTTINGS plants may be rooted into a sandbed
Lift a plant and take 2in (5cm) root as for E,y11giw11 (see p.196). Rooted
cuuings from healthy, thicker roots (sec cuuings nower in the following year.
VERBENA VERVAIN VERONICA SPEED\VELL
D IVISION in spring 1 01v1s10N in c::1rly spring or 111 au1umn i
Seeos in spring 1 S EEOS in 5pnng.
CUTTINGS ln late :-ummer ! CUTTINGS in hue spring~

Most of the species and Mos1 of the herbaceous perennials in this

UNCINIA HOOK SEDGE cu lLivars in this genus genus are quite hardy. Protect those with
are grown as bedding woolly leaves, such as Vero11ica bombyci11a,
DIVISION in :,pring. from seeds, such as from winter moisture. Many have a
Seeos in :1t11t1mn or m ,prmg 1
Ve.be.u, Verbena x hybrida spreading habit, often rooting from stems,
These perennials form clumps, 'Si,si11ghurs1 · cultivars. Bedding so they respond well lo division. All
sometimes rhizomalous, that can be Verbena and many other species can be species may be raised from seeds. Take
careful ly divided (sec pp. 148-9). Seeds increased by cullings. Divide fibrous- basal stem cuuings from species that
have shon viability; sow them (see rooted plants, for example V. corymbosa nower in Slllnmer, such as V. lo11gifolia.
f).152) still in their husks as soon as and V. 'Homestead Purple'.
they are ripe at a ,ninimum of 59°F DIVISION
( 15°C). Plant out the seedlings in the DIVISION Divide small, mat-forming species such as
following spring; in cold cl imates, Divide mature clumps (sec p.148) for V. spicata (see p. I 66) in spring, or dc1ach
make sure this is after all)' risk of late nowers in the same year. Prostrate stems rooted ponions for nowcrs in the same
frosts has passed. may rool where they touch the soil; the year. Divide (see p.148) early-nowering
plantlets may be detached, poued , and species (V. gentianoides) aflcr nowering
grown on (see p. 150). lo bloom next year. Clumps may be
VERATRUM divided into single buds (see p.150).
SEEDS
01v1S10N 111 early ~pring
Sow seeds (see p.151) al 70°F (2L°C) . SEEDS
or in :l\llumn U
Germination takes 14 days, and
-------------
Sow seeds (see p.151 ) at a temperature
Seeos in :n1tt11nn U1
seedlings nower in the same year. of 59°F ( 15°C) and cover very lightly 10
Divide rhizomes (see V. bo11a1ie11sis (syn. V. palagonica) allow some ligh t LO reach the seeds.
p.149) of these plants often self-seeds. Cu l1ivars will not breed lrue to type.
with care: all pans are
toxic, and the sap may C UTTINGS CUTTINGS
\t'r<Unon irrilale skin. Sow the Take sem i-ripe stem-Lip cuuings (see Take basal s1em cullings (see p.156)
«/bum seeds (see p.151) as p.154) , fro,n nonnowering growth if when new shoots are 3in (8c1n) tall; at
soon as they arc ripe , then expose 10 possible. AL59°F (15°C), cuuings root 59°F (15°C), they rOOl in lWO weeks.
winter cold. The seedlings may take wi thin 14 days. Keep the cuuings in Take slen1 cuttings from tall-stemmed
several years lo emerge will develop bright light and overwinter with cold plants (see f).156). Roo1ed cuttings may
slowly and take years lo nower. pro1ec1ion, where necessary. flower in the same season.

212

VIOLA PANSY, VIOLET, VIOL.A
DIVISION in early ~pnng, or
in :mwmn or late winter 1
SEEDS in spring or m
midsummer j
CUTTINGS from la1c spring to
la1c ~ununer or in autumn l
MOUNDING m summer l
Viola Perennials in this
1ricolo, genus are so1netimes
short-lived, but most of them arc fairly
easy 10 propagate.
DIVISION
Divide (seep. 148) clumps of V. odo.-,ita
after nowering in early spring. Pull apart
Viola cultivars into 2-4 pieces. Mat-
forming species such as V. riviniana are
easily divided; they nower the same year
if spli t in autumn or late winter.
SEEDS
Sow seeds (see p.15 I) of most species
in early to midspring and keep at 59°F
(15°C). Sow winter-Oowering pansies in
midsu1nmer. Seedlings should appear in
W AHLENBERGIA
DMSION in spring!
SEEDS 111 early spring or m la,e summer,
CUTTINGS in spring or in early summer ,
Often short-lived , perennials in this
genus must be regularly propagated.
Mat-forming plants may be divided (see
p.167) , and rooted suckers may be
detached from lV. glo1iosa . Sow the tiny
ZANTEDESCHIA CALLA LILY
OMSION in ~pring'
Seeos in s pringU
Za11tedescl1ia aechiopica and ilS cu lLivars
are slightly cold-toleran1, but most
species are tender. They fonn large
clumps of tuberous rhizomes, which
are easily divided. Of the cultivars,
Z. aechiopia, 'Green Goddess' is the
on ly one that comes true from seeds.
DIVISION
In cold climates, dormant rhizomes of
all species can be boxed up in trays of
moist sand in a temperature of 59°F
(15°C) until the buds begi n to swell.
When these arc visible, cut the rhizomes
into pieces, each with at least one bud.
Dust the cut surfaces ,vith fungicide.
Replace the rhizomes in 1he sand at the
same temperature 10 root , when they
can be potted or planted.
Large clu1nps of Z. aetl1iopica and of
other species and cultivars overwintered
in situ in warm climates may also be
lifted and spli t just as growth begins (see
p.148). Divisons nower in the same yea r.
l0-14 da)'S; transplant when large
enough to handle. Stem less alpines such
as V. jooi are best left in the seed pans
until the following spring, then carefully
transplanted. Some species self-sow and
hybridize freely. Many violets set viable
seeds from insignificant (clcis1ogamic),
green ish nowers, wllich never open.
C UTTINGS
Named cu ltivars may be sterile but root
well from 1-2in (2.5-5cm) stem-tip
cuttings. During nowering, sten1s of
pansy and viola cu ltivars elongate and
become hollow and stem cuttings will
not root , so take cuttings in spring from
new shoots. Insert 1hem in equal pans
of sharp sand and soil at 59°F (15°C);
they wil l root wi thin 14 days. Pot once
they show renewed leaf growth.
Alternatively, three weeks before
taking cuttings in autumn, cul back
plan1S and take stem-tip cuttings from
the regrowth. Keep rooted cuttings frost-
free with good light over winier.
seeds when ripe or in early spring ( see
p.164) al 59°F (15°C). Take basal stem
cu11 ings from strong new shoolS (see
p.166); root in a free-draining soil mix
in a sheltered place such as a cold frame.
Take soft s1e1n-1ip cuttings (see p.1 66) in
summer and root at 59-64°F (15-18°C).
l'vlost new plants Oower in the first year.
SEEDS
Sow one seed 10 a 3in (8cm) pot (see
p.152) and keep moist at 70°F (2 l °C)
10 germinate in a few weeks. Keep the
seedlings in active growth as long as
possible. Expect nowers in 2-3 years.
ZANTEDESCHIA AETIIIOPICA 'CRO\VBOROVGN'
\Vhen pf<uHrd in moist soif or ar l'Oncl margins.
lliis c11lla lily forms forge clumps. Tl,ese 11111y be
lifted and divided as for r/,i:0111111ous irises (sec
p.149) i11 spri11g jus1 as 11,ey srar1 i1110 growl/,.
TROPAEOLUM - Z AUSCH NER IA
M OUNDING
Species may also be top-dressed with
gritty soil mix, or 1nounded (sec below),
to encourage the stems to roo1. These
rooted stems may then be detached,
potted and grown on as for cullings.
M OUNDING A CLUM P OF VIOLA
\Vo,·I, 111 a mix of e11ual parrs fi11e grit mul pem
to cover llie bo110111 l,alf of 1/,c slwo1s i11 "
mature dump (liere of Viola cornu1a). Keep
moist for 5-6 weeks umil tlie shoots roOI into rl1r
soil mix. Detach die shoots and pm to grow on.
ZAUSCHNERIA
CALIFORNlA FUCHSIA
0MSION in Spring U
S EEDS m ~pnng l
CUTTINGS m lalc sprmg l
Divide (see p.J 48) these plants with
great care. Sow seeds (see p.151) at a
temperature of 59°F ( 15°C); bottom heat
improves germ ination. Take softwood
stem-Lip or basal stem cuttings (see
pp.154 and 156). New plants nower
in the first season.
O THER PERENNIALS
u, LI.ARIA Divide afte r nowering (see
/1. J 49) , . Sow rrcs h seeds (p. I 5J) in
autumn; keep in a cold frame; o ld seeds
gcnninalc slowly and erratically U,
VALtRl,\~A Divide in spring (see 11.148) ,.
Seeds ( p.15 l ) in s pring a1 50"F ( 1O"C) ,.
Basal s tem cu11ings (p.156) in spring , .
VANCOUVERtA Divide in spring (see p.J49)
, . Sow ripe seeds (p. I 5 J); keep in a cold
frame,.
V EROMCASTRUM Divide in spring ( set
p.148) , . Seed s and cm1ings as for Vero11ica
(see facing page).
\1/ALDSTEINIA Divide after nowcring (see
p. 149) ,. Sow seeds (p. 151 ) in autumn u.
\ Vuu ENIA Divide in autumn or early
spring into single roseues. each with roots
(see p. 167) U- Sow seeds (p.164) in early
spring in pois al 59°F (l 5°C) u.
X1:ROP1wu u,1 Sow fresh seeds in auturnn
(see p. 151) and expose to winter cold;
germination is slow ::mcl crraLic Ul,
213
 NNUALS AND
BIENNIALS
Although short-lived, annuals and biennials make rewarding subjects for
propagation - with a little effort and in a short space of time, seed-raised plants
ranging from creeping mats to climbers can color the summer garden

Ann uals naturally germinate, Oower, set seeds,
r\. and die within one gro\ving season. Biennials
produce only foliage in the first year; in the second
year they Oower, set seeds, and die. Because of the
nature of their life cycles, the only way to increase
these plants is from seeds.
Fortunately, 111ost ann uals and biennials are
easy to raise from seeds. The seeds rarely beco1ne
donnant, as do those of longer-lived plants, so
they need no special treatment before sowing.
They genninate easily and rap idly, providing a
display of color very soon after sowing - some
annuals flower 'Ni thin a few weeks.
The method of SO\Ving - in containers or
in situ - is dictated largely by the hardiness of
the plants, the local climate, and ho\v the plants
are to be displayed. Annuals and biennials
may be grov,n in their o,vn border, as part of a
bedding design , in containers, or as pot plants for
greenhouses and conservatories. Biennials need
longer-tenn care than annuals : the seedlings rnust
be gro\vn on for a season and are often raised in
Annuals and biennials are dedicated to only one
1neans of reproduction, and, if they are suited to
the climate, many produce prodigious quantities
of seeds and self-sow with ease. Many popular
garden species produce seedlings that, if not
cornpletely true to type, are nonetheless pleasing.
This offers plenty of opportunity for gathering
seeds, utilizing self-sown
seedlings, trying your hand
at hybridizing, or simply
allo\ving the plants to
naturalize in the garden.
ELEGANT
SEEDHEADS

nursery beds before planting o ut. Bells of lrelcmd

(Moluccclla
lacvis) is mm1ecl
for the large, gri,e11
F ERTILIZED FLOWER rnlyccs llia1
Once poflinatecl wulferlilizcd, the ow,,y m 1he SUJTOund the whit(·
ce111er of a flower of Lovc-i11-c1-111is1 (Nigella flowers. As the
clamasccna) swells and chcmgcs colo,: /1 secels ripen. , he
develops into cm attmcti\•e i11flatccl seed cllpsule calyccs become
1l1CU can be dried for.flower an-,mgcmenrs. white and pllpety.

215
ANNUALS AND BIENNTALS

SOWING SEEDS
A nnual and biennial seeds may be
r\. sown under cover or o utdoors,
depending o n their hardiness and local
conditions. \¥hen bu)dng seeds, you
may choose FL hybrid seeds for lheir
unifonnily, but naturally or o pen-
pollinated seeds are usually quite
acceptable and less coslly. Wilh home-
collected seeds, bear in mind that o nly
seeds of species come true to type.
Hybrid seeds wil l differ in varying
degrees from lhe parenLS.
BUYING SEEDS
If possible, check the date on lhe packet
lo make sure lhal the seeds are fr01n lhe
current season's crop. Seeds are often
supplied in foil packets lO keep them
fresh. Once a packet is opened, the
seeds begin to dc1criora1e, so 1hey are
besl sown at o nce. However, if lhe
release the seeds (see below) . Once danger of frost is pasL They may also
separated from the chaff, seeds may be be sown direct in the open ground
stored in packeLS or envelopes in a cool, (see p.21 8) in spring where lhey arc 10
dark place, such as a refrigerator (see no wer, when the soil has warm ed up
below right), unt il sowing time. Allow to at least 45°F (7°C). They may also
at least 6 weeks to pass before sowing. be sown in containers in areas where
the open garden so il is heavy and wet,
W HEN TO SOW ANNUALS AND BIENNIALS which may cause the seeds Lo rot.
In regions that experience frost, annuals Biennials arc sown under glass or
may be started indoors in late winter, (mo re commo nly) outdoors in a nurser)'
spring, or early summer in containers bed fro1n late spring to midsummer,
under cover, in temperatures of 55-70°F depending on how fast they grow. The
(13-2l°C), according to the genus (see seedl ings are transplanted in nursery
pp.220-29), and planted out when all rows 10 grow on, then planted in their
PURCHASED SEEDS
Many seeds are sold in air1igJ11foil JH1ch<1s
to lletp them fresh. Smut• seeds are etm1e,i
~ --..with water•soluble clay /HISie to creme
pellc1s: others arc embedded in welter·
J ...
. .

.
~ ; . ,,
...
,,

, ~ ~
·-soluble wpcs. KiLs ccm be
packet is sealed with tape and kept in
cool, dry conditions, mosl annual and
,. C' ._
' . . <( used w suspend seeds in
gel. l'elle1s. wpes, and
biennial seeds remain viable for a year
or more. Seeds of members of 1he pea
family (Fabaccac) last longer. If exposed
lo moisture, lighl, or warmth, the seeds' - -..-·-~-~.'"'"'",,,£=:,
..___ -
SEEDS IN GEL

PELLETED ~!-
....
•r.\
~els enabl,· seeds 10
J,., S/HICCII evenly so
little ll1i1111iug is needed.

viabilily will decline rapid!)'· SEED T,IPES SEEDS ~ UNTREATED SEEDS

Seeds may be boughl that arc 1reatcd
(see right) to make them easy lo handle GATHERING AND STORING SEEDS
and to reduce lhe need for lhinning.
So,ne seeds, especially very fine. seeds
of Fl hybrids, are individually coated
10 fonn pellets that are large enough
10 space evenly when sowing. Water
them well after sowing Lo dissolve the
coatings and enable moisture to reach
the seeds so they can germinate.
\ 'vater-soluble seed tapes work on
the same principle. Lay a tape along the
bouo,n of a drill , cover it with soil, and
---
water in. Untreated seeds ma)• be mixed
into a gel, supplied in a kit or made
from wallpaper paste, for fluid sowi ng.
The gel is squeezed through a bag to S EED CAPSULES Choose a cl,y clay to gatJ,er DRYING SEEDIIEADS \Vhe11 seed capsules or
distribute seeds evenly along the bouom ,ipe capsules ro ensure ll1e seeds (ffC not damp. pods 1w11brown, cul them off tmd t>laa in /Xlpcr·
of a drill (see also Vegetables, p.284). If rhf a,,,sufcs a rr open <>r split , tip or shahe the fined boxes or rr<1ys, Leave in" wnrm, ~111111y
Some hybrid seeds that are difficult scccls onto a piece of ,,ape,·for sowing or storing. spor m1til completely d,y, then extract the seeds.
to germinale may be primed before
sale. The germination process has been
started but arrested al a critical stage
and the seeds dried partially.

S AVING YOUR OWN SEEDS

It is best 10 take seeds from vigorous,
healthy plants with good flowers: these
are likel)' 10 produce the best seedl ings.
Deadhead others to preven t them from
forming seeds. Gather ripe seeds as
soon as lhe seedpods turn from green
to brown o r black but before they open
and shed their contents. On a d ry day,
pick the seed heads, either singly or on EXTRACTING SEEDS />lace dried sceclhcacls STORING SEEDS Place clea11ed seeds i11 sealed
stalks, and lay them o ut 10 dry in a into a sieve ancl hold over a piece of pape,: Ce111ly and l<1beled />t1per pachels. S1ore in a 1>las1ic
warm place. If they do not open when Jn~ah 111> rile seeclheads; the seeds will fall box. will, a lid, i11 1he bouom of 1lte refrigcraror
dry, gently crush pods and capsules 10 tl1 rougl1the flue mesh, lc<iving the chaff behind. <11 a 1e1111,erature 1,J.J4- 4 l°F (l- 5°C).

216
 SOVvl NG SEEDS

SOWING ANNUAL SEEDS IN A TRAY

PrCJ,arc a rray with seed soil mix. Srwul it Cover all bur ve,y fine seeds willr <1 lt1yer of />lace a piece of glass. 11las1ic, ,,.. 11las1ic wrap
1 in wtHcr ,mril die mix surface is moist. Allow 2 soil rub· c,11wl lo approximately twice tl1eir 3 O\'cr rl1e tmy to mainwin moisture. Cover with
to drain thoroughly. Sow rhe Sfcds 1lti11ly 011 tire 1hidmess. Use a sieve lO obwin a fine texwre. netting or newspa1>cr lo sluule it from direct sun.
su,jace, rap/ling 1he111 from a fold of /Kiper. Alternali\•ely, use venniculirt (see below right). \Vhen germination stans, ll'mtwt both covers.

Always luuulfc
seedlings by USING VERMICULITE
lf<l\'C'S
Venniculite allows air and

"
'
./
light to reach 1/,e seeds, so
ii is usef ul for covering
·\ ..rttt•••
•
seeds tlu11 require lig/11
. •' ~ to germincue. It alst,
- reduces the risll
of damping off
Sow as usual irr
a 1101 or I ray (see
~-.....~=.... step 1) and cover
\V/1c11 1he seedlings (litre maiigolds) are Tra11splm11 each seedling i1110 a prel"'red with ¼in (5mm )
4 enough
lm-ge
out of the
to handle, gently lwoclt them
co11llli11e,: Lift each scedli11g, Jwe11ing
5 co111C1i11cr (/,ere a 24-l"'cl,), ma/1i11g a hole of fine-grade
large enough for 1hc mQls. Gc111/y Jinn 1/ic soil vermiculite.
as much soil ,uix omtmd irs ,·001s as possible. mix a round the seedling. \Voter cmd lc,bel.

nowering positions in summer or
au1u1nn (see p.219).
ln wa rm , frosi-free clima1es, large
seeds of annuals and biennials may be
sown direc1 in 1he open gro und as soon
as 1he soil is warm enough, where 1hey
are 10 nower or in nursery beds. Fine
or expensive seeds are beuer sown in
coniainers, where growing condi1ions
are more easily controlled, as are seeds
of less vigorous plants. Make successive
sowings for ouidoor plan 1i ngs 10 achieve
a longer flowering season.
SOWING IN CONTAINERS
Pots, pans, seed trays, and cell packs
are suitable , depend ing on the amount
o r t)•pe of seeds 10 be sown. Too large
a container wastes space and so il mix;
one too small can lead 10 thick sowing,
causing damping off (see p.46) and weak
seed lings. Large seeds may be sown in
rockwool cells 10 create plug plants.
Degradable pois are useful for plants
1ha1 dislike root disturbance.
To prepare 1he con1ainer, fill il to
its brim wilh seed soil mix (see p.34).
Tap 1he co ntainer lo gel rid of any
air pockets. Firm a soil-based mix
reasonably well with your fingertips,
panicularl)• in the corners, before
leveling the surface lo aboul ¼i n
(5mm) below 1he rim , using a Oat
wooden board or presser. Finn soilless
mix only very lightly be[ore level ing.
Thorough ly moisten 1he soi l mix by
siand ing 1he container in water or
watering it overhead using a waiering
can fined with a fine rose. Add a suitable
fungicide to 1he water to avoid damping
off. Allow the container 10 drain.
Sow seeds s1raigh1 from 1he packe1,
a fold of paper, or you r palm. Tap gentl)•
10 release tl1e seeds slowly, and sow
thinly and evenl)• over 1he soi l mix.
Space-sow large or pelleted seeds one
by one. Mix tiny seeds with equal parts
of fine , dry sand 10 ensure even sowi ng.
No covering is necessary for fine
seeds sown wi th sand - just press 1he
seeds into 1he soil mix surface with a
presser or empty conta iner of the same
size. Cover other seeds wilh a layer of
soil mix or fine-grade venniculi1e (see
above) 10 keep 1he seeds in con tact wilh
1he moist mix . If the covering layer is
dry, mo isten it wilh a mist-sprayer. Stop
the mix from drying ou1 by covering
the container wilh plastic wrap or a
sheet of glass or plastic or by placing ii
in a closed case. H necessary, shade the
container from direc1 sun.
G ERMINATING THE SEEDS
The temperature and light needed for
germ ination varies according 10 1he
genus (see pp.220- 29). ln cool cl imates,
a heated closed case on 1he greenhouse
bench is ideal, but a windowsill in a
warm room suffices [or a wide range of
annuals. Check the container regularly
and remove the lid or coverings as
soon as gennination occurs. Place 1he
coniaincr in full ligh1, but shade 1he
seed lings from strong sun. Keep 1he
so il mix moist a1 all 1iines 10 mainlain
steady grow1h unti l the seed lings are
ready 10 1ransplan1.
TRANSPLANTING THE SEEDLINGS
Con1ainer-raised seedlings should be
transplanted in to larger con1ainers
before 1hcy become overcrowded so
they have room 10 develop before being
planted in their nowering positions.
The seedlings will suffer less or a check
in grow1h if 1ransplan1ed as soon as they
can be handled, even if they are quite
small (co111i1111etl on p.218).
SOWING IN A DEGRADABLE POT
Sow three seeds
in a 2i11 (5cm)
dcgracl(lble pm.
\\1itcr mul
label. \Vhe11
seedlings ap11ea,:
rf1i11 to one per
,,01. Plant ow the
entire pot when
1/,c stcclli11gs arc
esw/Jli sl,ed.

217
ANNUALS AND BIENNIALS
PREPARING THE GROUND FOR SOWING
Remove 1111 debris aml weeds from <lug soil.
1 Finn rlre wlrole 11re11 by sltufflingforwtU'cl
wirh l>orh Jeer rogcrlrer, unril ir is jlar am/ frri·
of nir podltls. Pti)' 1n1nicular <mcmio11 ro edges.
SOWING SEEDS IN ROWS IN A BORDER
Firsr use sud:n or twine w marh mu c, grid
1 on the see<lbcd. Then s111 in Ille g, it o, sand
011 the soil ro mm 1: out rht sowing tllt'as; using
(I boule (stc insc1) will ccmrml rhe flow of sand,
Ahcrnativel)~ scort' ,h,~ soil with a sciclt.
Ccrrefully rahc 1he soil bacl, o,•er the drills
3 dislodging
without seecls.
tlie with the
Finn
bach of rhr rcrl:r. Label each sowing area and
4 and appear to be growing in r'cgimcnted
pauer11s. but d1c·y will soon blend wgeth,·r to
wcuc, with a wme,ing am fiued wirli ,, fine rose.
(Cominuedfrom p.217) Seedlings grown
on in cell packs arc easy LO handle
and suffer liule check 10 growth when
plan ted out. Other su itable containers
are biodegradable and plastic pots up 10
3¼in (9cm) in size, and deep seed trays.
Seedlings that are destined to be grown
in pots should be transplanted first into
3¼in (9cm) pots, then poued on into
5-7in (13-18cm) pots.
To transplant seed lings, first water
the container and allow it to drain. Tap
the container on a hard surface, which
should loosen the soil mix so it can be
218
Rtrht OWT die {trt-'a in nil ditt'(liOIIS to O'C<Ht'
2 11 fin,· ril1l1. retlll) for sowing. Thi, c,pait,lly
helps b1otulcelst Sfcds :..euk bt·rween the fine
furrow:,, . If llw soil is d,y. w<H<T i1 rhomugl1ly.
Using tr lint' of string 1Jr tr swhe ll.S a guide,
2 drnw out drills about Iin (2.5cm) dttl) wid1
o hot· in t·acl1sowing wa~. Scalltr 1lu' seeds
rhinly """ Cl'e11ly alo11g rl,c clrill (see inset).
Spaa:·)<>w pdletnl or largt· seeds indi,,itltwUy.
I11itk1lly, the seedlings may looh spnrsr
form a dense mul infonnal plo1lling.
removed intact. Lift out each seedling
by inserting a 1hin stake or simi lar tool
under the root system, taking care 1101
10 cause it any damage. Always hold a
seedling by the leaves 10 avoid bruising
s1ems or growing tips.
Make a hole in the soil mix of the
prepared container that is large enough
10 accommodate the roots and stem so
that the seed leaves sit just above the
soi l mix. Firm in each seedling gently.
Space the seedlings l 1/,-2in ( 4-5cm)
apart or one 10 each cell. Keep any
smaller seedlings at one end of the
tray so 1ha1 they do not need to compete
with stronger ones and have a beuer
chance of developing even ly.
Water the seedlings with a fine-rosed
can to seule the roots. Place in slightly
warmer conditions to help them to
establish quickly. Keep them watered
and, in sunny weather, shade ,vith
newspaper or ncuing to avoid scorch.
H ARDENING OFF SEEDLINGS
New plants raised under cover in
cool climates will have relatively soft
growth, so they need to be g radually
acclima1ized 10 ouidoor co nditions, o r
hardened off (see p.'15), for a couple of
weeks before plan1ing out. Hardened
fros1-1ender annua ls may be planted
oui o nce all danger of frost has passed.
If condilions prevent plan1ing ou1, pot
on the plants or feed regu larly so 1hey
cont inue to develop heahhily.
SOWING SEEDS OUTDOORS
Annuals may be sown ouidoors in
prepared bo rders, in gaps in csiablished
borders, or in nursery beds for culling
or transplanting. Biennials are usually
sown in nursery beds. Avoid very fert ile
soil; ii promotes leaf growth at the
ex pense of nower production. Mos1
annuals and biennials prefer a sunny si1e.
Prepare the soil well before sowing,
when the surface is sufficien1ly dry so
1ha1 footwear remains clean and there is
no danger of ove rcompaction. If the soil
is lacking in nutrients, apply a balanced
fenilizer ai 2oz/sq. yd (70g/sq. m)
o r use a liquid fertilizer during growth.
Immediately before sowing, when
the soil is moist but not wa1erlogged ,
prepare the soil surface (see above left).
M ARKING OUT A BORDER
In a border, annuals are best g rown
in bold, informal groups. Make a plan
before sowing, givi ng considerati on
to height , habit, and nowcr co lor. Bear
in mind that larger annuals need ,nore
sowing space than smaller ones.
Divide 1he sowing area into a grid
to help transfer the plan accurately 10
the ground, then mark out drills at 1he
appropriate spacings in eac h section (see
left). Alternatively, make drills spaced
6-9in ( 15-23cm) apan 1hroughou1 the
whole area before marking out the plan,
or broadcast-sow each section.
SOWING SEEDS IN DRILLS
Although rows of seedlings may initially
seem 100 formal , they arc easier to weed ,
being readily distinguished from weed
seed lings, and to thin (see facing page).
Using the corner of a hoc, draw out
the drills, usually 3-6in (S-15cm) apart,
depending on the eventual size of the
plant. Alternatively. press a long stake
or 1he back of a rake firmly into the soil.

In practice, sowing depth is not too
c ritical, but drills should be no more
than lin (2.5cm) deep. The)' should
also be or a unifonn d epth for even
germination. Make the drills less deep
on heary cla)' soil. I[ the soil is very
cir)', soak each drill befo re sowing.
Sow the seeds b)' hand or nuicl-sow
them along the drills, then cover (see
facing page). Sow o ld seeds more thic kly,
because the germination rate is likel)' to
BROADCAST-SOWING SEEDS
Use" rcrhc w giw· the s"il n fine tilll1 (see
1 facing page) . Scaucr 1he seeds 1/1i11ly ml/I
e1•e11ly Ol'er ihe 11rq1ared sceclbe<l by ha11<1, wi11t
e1 seed sowc,: o, straiglu from rhc paclu:t.
THI NNING ANNUAL AND BIENNIAL SEEDLINGS
INDIVIDUAL SEEDLINGS To 1lti11 sce<lli11gs ill
drills (here of larl1s11ur). 11rcss ,low11 ,m 11,c soil
arowul the suongcst seedlings, while pulling out
the lmwmurd, wcaltcr ones. Rcfinn ,md wore,:
RAISING BIENNIAL SEEDLINGS
Sow biennic,ls (J,c,i: w(1llflowrrs) in drifls in
1 ,1 prt'pared sccdhctl: hcep them \,1ell-wauttll.
In a mourh or so, wla.·n die seedli11~s <ire 2- Jin
(.5-8c111) 1all, lift 1lte111 usiug a ltaud Jori,.
be low. 1r there is no prospect or rain ,
water in the seeds wel l with spray from
a fine-rosed watering can . Keep the soil
moist and weed-free to obtain the best
rate or germination.
BROADCAST- SOWING SEEDS
This me1hod (see below) is bes1 used
when sowi ng among other p lants, for
example in gaps in borders. Weeding
can be more clifficuh in the early stages,
Rnlir over die afea <U riglu angles ro cover
2 rhe seeds: use ligh1 srrollcs so tlwt they are
diSllll'bed <1S liule <1s possible. 1-abel 11te al'ea.
\¼tter the soil using a fine-rosed watrri11g can.
SEEDLING GROUPS Lift clt111tf1> of setdli11gs
(here of sweer \Villiam). Seplu-mc them. rrwining
11Jc111y of soil <1ro1111d 1l1e roois of tad, sculli11g.
Rfplmu singly imo die bed m t·,•tn :,pacings.
Pl(ul( out rhr seedlings in a nwse,y bed
2 6-Sin (15-20cm) apnrl, ht rows 8- 12i11
(20-JOcm) "/l<lrl. Allow space i11 each plwuing
hole for d1r roms. Finn in. l<1bcl, ,mcl wtdcr.
SOWING SEEDS
since a hoe can not be used . Sow the seeds
thinly on the prepared surface and rake
them in lightly to keep them in contact
with 1he soil. Label and water in wel l.
THINNING SEEDLINGS
Even with the most carerul sowing,
seedlings will need thinning (see below
left) to avoid overcrowding. Many
annuals shed copious amounts or seeds,
so seir-sown seed lings may also need
thinning. The bes1 time 10 th in is when
the soil is moist and the weather mild.
If the final spacing is Sin (20cm) o r
more, thin in several stages so the
growing seed lings prot ec1 each other.
Use 1he strongest thinn ings to fill
sparse areas caused by uneven sowing
or poor germination, or 1ransplant
elsewhere in the garden . Annuals with
taproots such as Cfarhie1, Gypsophi/a,
and poppies do not transplant well.
Arter thinning, water in gent ly but well .
N URSERY BEDS
Biennials are ofren raised in outdoor
nursery beds and transplanted to their
nowering positions when large enough
(see below). It is usual to sow the
seeds from late spring to midsummer;
transplant 1he111 in summer to another
nursery bed to grow on. In autumn,
the young plants are transrerred to their
nowering positions. Annuals may a lso
be raised in nursery beds for culling.
PROTECTING OUTDOOR SOWING$
Before and arter genn ination , it may
be necessar)' to pro1ec1 annuals and
biennials against rodents, birds, or cats.
Lay l\viggy sticks over the soil su rface.
Alternativel)', cons1ruct a cage using
wire netting (see p.45). Bend the edges
down so that the netting is held above
the emerging seedl ings. You can protec1
autumn-sown annuals and biennials
against cold or excess moisture by using
cloches (see p.39).
In cm1w1111, when the new 1,Jmus arc grvwiug
3 well, wmer the nursery bed if iris dry, tht11
carefully lif1 11,t plcmts. Trn11s11Jmt1 rltr111 10 1ltrir
flowe1i11g pnsirions. i,1 well-f)rqxrred soil.
219
A-Z OF ANNUALS ANO BIENNIALS
A-Z OF ANNUALS AND BIENN IALS
Seeds germ inate in either light or darkness unless s pecified. For perennials grown as ann uals, see A-Z o f Perennials (pp.186-213).
AGERATUM FLOSS FLO\VER
Seeos from l~tc wimcr 10 earl>· ::.pring
The annuals in this genus may become
naturalized in gardens and in Lhe wild
in subtro pical and tropical climates.
The seeds are produced in a papery
seed cap sule and are easily extracted
(see p.216) when ripe.
A germination 1e mpera1u re in the
region of 70°F (21 °C) is required,
and the seeds s hould take five days
lO germ inate in light. Transplant the
seedlings if necessary within seven 10
te n days. Floss flowers u suall)' lake 12
weeks or more 10 reach flowering size.
AMARANTHUS
Seeos from mid• to late ~pring,
The annuals and s hort-lived pe rennials
in this genus are wind-pollinated and
ofte n hybridize and seed about very
freely. In some climates, A111ara111hus can
be invasive, but sel f-sown seed lings are
easily removed or 1ransplan1ed as for
Digiwfis (see p.223).
The tassel-like flowers arc followed
by brightly colored seed heads. Small
seeds are carried deep within the tassel
and cannot normally be seen. The bes1
way 10 collect the seeds is 10 "milk" the
tassels (see below). Al1ernalively, remove
the no werheads, place them in a paper-
lined box, and leave in a warm , dry place
for a week or so until the seeds fall ouL
220
AMBERBOA S\VEET SULTAN
~ S eeos from early 10 mid:,pring or in muunm ~
The seeds of these annuals and biennials
are ca rried in papery seedheads and are
fairly large and easily handled. They
germinate a t 70°F (21 °C) with in ten
days of sowing in darkness. Seedlings
are transplanted , if n ecessary, within a
similar period.
Trans plant all seedlings sown in
containers into po ts or cells (see p.217)
10 avoid roo l disturbance when p lanting
ou1. In cold climates, autumn sowings
n eed protection under cover. Amberboas
flower in 12-l4 weeks.
Clean the gloss)' b lack o r pink seeds
b)' tossing them in a bowl and genii)'
blowing off the c haff as il rises 10 1hc
1op; the seeds will fall 10 the bouom.
Most Amarantltus germinate al 70°F
(21 °C) in te n days, but Chinese spinac h
(A. tricolor) requires a minimum of
77°F (25°C) . If n eeded , 1ransplan1 the
seedl ings , vithin seven days (see below).
If they a re 1ransplan1ed at a later stage,
the plants will 1101 be vigo rous and will
probably flower premature ly instead o f
after the u sual 12 o r more weeks.
Love-lies-bleeding (A. caudmus) may
be sown outdoors where they are to
nower in midspring; thin the seedlings
to 2ft (60c m) apart.
A AMARANTHUS SEEDLINGS
Pricl: 0111 Amarant hus seedlings
as saon c1s they ht1vc two 01·
f"ur leaves. If the see,W11gs arc
tlisw,.becl at <1 lmer swge, the
new pllmts will nOJ d1rive.
~ GATH ERING SEEDS
\Vhc11 1he flowers (here of
A maran1hus caud;:1tus) begiu
ro change colo,· (here from deq,
red w yellow), Ifie seeds are
ripe. Hold a tmy bene(IIJ1the
flowal1end mul gently "mill, "
1he wsscls "' that the seeds
(see inse1) fall into lloc 1ray.
B RACHYSCOME
SWAN RIVER DAISY
Seeos from midwi111er to cal'ly ~pring U
Collect seeds fro m the papery, disklike
seedh eads of the annuals in this genus
(syn. Brachycome) as for Heliantlms
(see p.224), a nd dry them before
s toring (see p.216) .
Surface-sow the seeds (see p.217) ,
because light is n ecessary for a good rate
of germination . This usually iakes 15
days al a tem perature of 70°F (21°C).
Swan river dai.sies s h ould flower 12-14
weeks after sowi ng.
OTHER ANNUALS AND BIENNIALS
AotUMIA FUNGOSA Sow as soon as ripe in
sheltered place or outdoors (s.:e p.229) ~-
AoONLS Sow as for Cen1t11u-ct1 (see p.222) l,
AGROSTEMMA Sow as for Nigclle1 (see
p.228); nowers best in poor soiI l-
A<,Ro,n s Sow as for B.-ize1 ( see p.22 I ) l-
AI RA Sow as for 8.-iz" ( see J>.22 I)•·
ALC EA Sow as for biennial Diaudms
(see p.223) ,.
AMMI Sow as fo r Centau.-ea (sec 1>.222) l,
A Nc11USA Sow seeds of annuals and
biennials as for Agcrmum (sec abo\le) ! .
A. ca,,ensis is best sown direc1.
A NGCLICA Sow seeds o f biennials as soon
as ther are ripe: light and a temperature
of50-o0°F (10-15.5°C) are needed for
gcnnination. Transplanl seedlings as soon
as they are large enough to handle; older
seedlings resem root disturbance U- Self-
sown A. C1rchcmgdicn seedlings come fairly
true. (See cdso Culinary Herbs, p.290.)
ANODA Sow as for Gailla.-clia (see p.224) I-
A N J'HRl~liS Sow annuals and biennials as
for Ce111<11u·ct1 (see J>.222). Sow direct in
well-drained soil. l-
ARGEMONt Sow as for Tagetes (see p.229) l-
A. PcRUt.,\ Sow as for Ce,uaurea (see p.222) i.
/\TRIPLEX Sow as for Cenraurca (see p.222) ,
but successively from spring 10 early
sununcr , .
BALLEYA Sow as for Centcmrea (sec p.222) l-
BARBAREA Sow seeds (see />.219) of
biennials as soon as they are ripe,.
B.ss1,1 Sow as for Callis1epl111s (sec p.221 ) l-
BORAGO Sow as for Cenwurc<, (see p.222) ~-
8ROMUS Sow seeds direct outdoors in
springa1 50°F ( 10°C) l-
CALOMERIA (syn . Humeo) Sow as for
Clwme (see p.222), but as soon as the
seeds are ripe U-

BRACTEANTHA
STRAWFLOWER
SEEDS in carlr lO late spring,
The annuals Lake 16-20
weeks to nowcr. Seed s
arc pro duced in a large,
papery seedhead and
are easily removed
Brnc1rw11h11 (see ,,.2 16) when dry.
brae1et11t1 cuhh"ar Although the seeds
arc fairly large, do not cover Lhc1n
with more than their own de pth of soil
mix or vermiculite because they n eed
light 10 germinate. This Lakes five
days a1 70°F (21°C) . Trans plant the
seedlings, if necessary, within seven
10 1en days.
BRASSICA
SEEDS from cal'ly fO 1111d-.prrng ~
The commonly grown ornamenta l
cabbages or kales ( 8. oleracea cul1ivars)
belong to this genus. They are quite
cold-hardy and are grown as biennials
o r annuals. Seeds a re easily re,noved
from the dried heads (see p.216) and
will germinate rapid!)' at 70°F (21°C),
in five days. If necessary, transplant
1he seedlings (see p.21 7) within seven
days. Ornamen ta l cabbages mature
in approx imately 16 weeks. (See also
Vegetables, p. 296.)
B RIZA QUAKING GRASS
Seeos in early :nuumn or midspring 1
Collect the seeds of annual grasses in
this genus as soon as the decorative
seedheads become fully ripened
(see below). Germination requires a
temperature of 60°F ( 1S.S°C) and takes
12 days. If necessary, trans plant the
seedlings (see p.217) within 10-14 days.
Seedling grasses generally nowcr within
14 weeks.
GATliERlNG QUAKING GRASS SEEDS
Gently 1mll 1hc seedl1c11d (he,~ ofBriaa minor)
d1roug/1 one hand so 11,ar 1hc sccclsfcdl into a
bag be11earl1. (Clecm 11las1ic lmgs are fine for
gt11heri11g, b111 1101 for storing, seeds.)
B ROWALLIA AMETHYST
VIOLET, BUSH VIOLET
Seeos from early to late spl'ing or in l:ue
summer U
The seeds o f the annuals in 1his genus
take lS days to germinate. Surface-sow
ihe seeds, because ligh t is necessary for
good germ ination . Kepi a1 a tempe rature
of 70°F (21 °C) , 1he seeds s ho u Id
germ ina te in 10-14 days. Plants nower
in 16 weeks.
CALCEOLARIA POUCH
FLOWER, SLIPPER FLOWER
Seeos in spring or mid~ummcr U
There are perenn ia ls, biennials, and
annuals in this genus. To extract 1he fine
seeds, crush the rounded seed capsules
(see p.216). Sow annuals in s pring and
biennia l seeds in midsummer to obtain
nowers in the following spring and early
summer. The seeds require ligh t and a
temperature of 70°F (21°C) Lo gcnnina1e
in 15 days. If needed, transplant seedlings
in seven Lo ten days.
Flowe ring takes up to 36 weeks, but
the Anytime Series nowers in 16 weeks
at any Lime of year in suitable climates.
(See also Perennials, p.190.)
CALENDULA ENGLISH
MARIGOLD, POT MARIGOLD
SEEOS in early lo midspring
or in :unumn ~
Annuals in 1his genus
are quite hardy and self-
sow freely: seedlings of
cul1ivars do not com e
C,dnululo <>J/kinalr:; true, buL the varialions
·Ari Shades' may be acceptable.
Transplant self-sown seedlings as for
Digitalis (see p.223). Take care LO
preserve a ll viable pans of the large
seeds whe n collecting them (see below).
Seeds are best direct-sown o utdoors
(see p.218) a1 a te mpe rature of 70°F
(21°C); the)' germinate in 1en days in
darkness. If needed , transplant seedlings
in seven days. Protect autumn sowings
fro m severe cold in colder cli,nates.
Calendulas flower in 10- 12 weeks.
,
STRUCTURE OF CALENDULA SEEDS
Calendula seeds f•-«111e11tly l>rcal1 into three
p<frtSwhen they ar'e gm hcred or wltiJe d1cy arc
stored. Each part l{HJ be sown a.s a viable sad,
so wkr care no, to disam:l them with rht cluiff
AGERATUM - C AMPANULA
CALLISTEPHUS
CHINA ASTER
SEEDS in early lo 1:ue spring
or m ~,rl)' summer U
The single s pecies of
Callistephus and ils
cul1ivars are annuals.
Sow seeds outdoors
O dlis1tpf11L, d1in1,1.,1.\ in midspring at
Pompon $enc, S0-60°F (JO-I 5.S°C)
after the last frosts, or raise plants under
cover in containe rs (see p.217) . Sow in
the early s umme r to obtain autumn-
nowering planlS. Mos1 Ch ina asters
b loom for a fairl y short time, so make
s uccessive sowings for a lo nger period
or nowering.
The seeds are foirly large but s hould
not be covered with m ore than their o wn
depth of soil or soi l ,nix . Germination
takes eight days at 70°F (21 °C);
transplant seedlings, if necessary, within
another seven to Len days. Flowe rs
appear abou1 20 weeks after sowing.
CAMPANULA
BELLFLOWER
Seeos in kuc s1>ring to earl) ">Ummcr or in
mnumn !
Canterbury bells (Cam11an11la medium)
is a s howy biennial. The seeds a re
carried in a rounded seed capsule,
concealed in the calyx at the base of
the nower. his easier 10 crush the
en tire caps ule and sow the resullS than
son out the tiny seeds from the chaff.
Surface-sow the seeds (see p.21 7),
because they need light LO germ ina te.
This takes 20 days a1 70°F (21°C).
Transplant seedlings within four weeks
as soon as they arc large en ough to
handle, for nowers in 12 months. In
regions with very mild winters, sow
direct in autumn for s pring nowers.
(See also Perennials, p.191.)
BI ENNIAL CAMPANULA SEEDLINGS
Grow on seedlings (here Campanula medium)
in nurser)' beds for the firs, season while ll1ey
pol on vegctath•e growrh (see above), Plcmt 0111
into their flowe, ing ,,ositicm:,. in cmwm11.
221
A-Z OF ANNUALS AND BIENNIALS
CAPSICUM PEPPER
Seeos in mid• lo late :-.pri1li,
The annuals are mainly cultivated crops,
but some with brightly colored fruits are
also used ornamcnially. The na1 seeds
are produced in fleshy fruits. To collect
1hc1n in summer, slowl)• dry some ripe
peppers to allow the seeds to mature,
then extract the seeds. \.Vear gloves lo
avoid irritating the skin. (See also
Vegetables, p.298. )
Sow the seeds the following spring
al a temperature of 70°F (21°C).
Germination takes ten days; if needed,
transplant seed lings within a week. The
plants start fruiting in 16-20 weeks.
CELOSIA COCKSCOMB
SEEDS from micbpring to early summer U
Cuhivars of Celosia arge11tea arc grown
as annuals. Dry the feathery plumes of
the seedheads and shake out the seeds
over clean paper.
Germination takes ten days ma
temperature of 70°F (21 °C). Transplant
seed lings ,vi thin seven days, if needed .
If sowing seeds in containers (see p.217),
do 1101 allow the seedl ings to become
100 established before transplanting,
because they do not like root disturbance.
Pot the seedlings ind ividual!)• into small
3½in (9cm) pots. The plants take 12-14
weeks lO nower.
CENTAUREA KNAPWEED
Seeos m early spring 1
or the annuals and
biennials, the annual
cornflower (Ce111aurea
cya11us) and its cuhivars
are mosl popular. Self.
sown seed lings come
Ce11w111t'<' fairly true; treat as for
9'"'"" Digiwlis (see faci11g
page). The largish seeds arc easily
extracted and arc best sown direct
(see p.218) 10 flower in 12 weeks. They
germinate in ten days a1 64°F (18°C)
in darkness. 1f necessary, transplant
seedlings (see p.217) in 10-14 days.
CHRYSANTHEMUM
S eeos from early t() late spnng or in autumn
Some annuals in this genus are quite
hardy. Sow the large seeds in earl)'
spring in containers (see p.217) or direct
in late spring for flowers in 12-14 weeks.
In frost-free areas, sow direct (see p.218)
in autumn for earl)• flowering. Seeds
germinate in 11 days al 70°F (21°C) .
Transplant, if needed , in seven 10 ten
days. (See also Perennials, p.192. )
222
CLARKIA
Seeos 111 c~rl>• spring or
:nuumnJii
Seeds or these Laprooted
annuals (syn. Go<leti<1)
are carried in capsules
that soon scauer the
seeds once they are
Clculil" ripe. Sow direct (sec
'Bnlha111· p.218) 10 avoid
disturbing the rooLs. At 70°F (21°C),
seeds germinate in five da)'S. Protect
autumn-sown seedlings over winter
where marginally hardy (see J>.39).
Clar-Ilia cm,oe11a seeds come fairl)• true.
Flowers in 12 weeks.
CONVOLVULUS BlND\VEED
SEEDS from earl} 10 hue spring 1
The most com1nonly grown annual in
this large genus is Co11volulus lricolo.-
(syn . C. mino.-) and its cuhivars. The
seeds form in a rounded seed capsule.
Convolvulus flowers 12-14 weeks after
sowing outdoors.
If starting the seeds under cover
( see p.217) , the large seeds may be sown
singly in plug trays of rockwool (see
SOWING CONVOLVULUS SEEDS lN ROCKWOOL
Lt1rgc seeds s11ch as thosf of Convolvulus
1 tricolor m(fy be sowtt iu c, trny of rocllh'ool
plugs. Stt111d die rrny in a drip tray mid sooh
rite roclzwool wid1 wmcr. Allow lO stand fur 30
minutes, rhcn dr,1in off die excess.
l
Push a liulc wad of loose rocl,wool fiber
3 into caclt liole to fill ir, nwld11g sure thm
1here is no e1ir space lefr above rhc seed. The clry
fi ber will absorb moisu,n· from 1lre roclnvool
plug. Label and place in c, we1n11 brig/11 place.
CLEOME SPIDER FLOWER
SEEDS 111 nud,pnng J
On ly annuals in this genus arc usuall)'
cultivated. The very tender Cleome
hassle.-iana (syn. C. pu11ge11s, C. S/>inosa)
and its cuhivars are 1nost popular.
Sow seeds (see p.21 7) at about 70°F
(21°C) . The)' should germinate in ten
days, but germination sometimes can
be erratic. 1f this is the case, wait until
the firs1 seed lings have two true leaves
before transplanting. Seedlings that
are raised under cover are best grown
on individually in 3½in (9cm) pots to
prevent root disturbance when planting
them out. Plants flower in 16-18 weeks.
below) instead of soil mix for minimum
root disturbance when transplanting.
Seeds gcnninaie at 70°F (21°C) in
about five days.
If needed , transplant the seedlings
(see p.217) within seven da)'S. For
seedl ings raised in rockwool , simply
drop the plug into the center or a
preformed rockwool block so the roots
can grow into the block ,vi thout check.
To sow rhe sefds. uwhc a hole about ¼in
2 (5mm) dctt) in llic center of el,clt rocJm·ool
plug, U!t-ing (' small tool. Drop one scccl inw
each prepared plug.
Tire sce//li11gs sl,ould ,w ,clt rite seed-leaf
4 swge i11 10-14 clays (sec above). Grow
them 0 11 until rite roots show rhrougl1 rhc
mchwool. Tl,en plant our as rockw°',l pltigs
or pot i1110 a rochwool blodi (sec insel).
 CAPSICUM - DI G ITAL IS

CONSOLIDA LARKSPUR D IGITALIS FOXGLOVE

SEEDS in early and late spnng or m :JUlumn 1
The seeds of these self-sowing annuals
are poisonous and are produced in
a long seedpod. They a re best sown
direct outdoors (see p.217). Successive
sowings are recommended to provide
a long season of flowering, especially
when cul flowers are required. Autumn
sowings ,viii give flowers in lale spring,
bul in colder a reas protect seedlings
over winter.
Seeds sown at 55°F (13°C) take
20 da)'S to germ ina te. If necessary,
transplant the seedlings (see p.217)
within seven to Len da)'S. Flowers
appear in 12-16 weeks.
SEEDS in l~ue :!>pringt
The deep, Lubular flowers of foxgloves
attract nectar-seeking bees, which
pollinate the plant. Seeds are produced
in grea t quantit)' in papery capsules Lo
enable the foxgloves to self-sow with
ease. Self-sown seedlings can be lifted
and transplanted (see below).
Cullivars come reasonabl)' true to
type although there is some, usually
p leasing, variation. Collect th e ripe,
brown seed capsules just before lhey
split and release the seeds. These, like
SELF-SOWN SEEDLINGS
all pans of the planl, are poisonous,
so take care when sorting and cleaning
1hem (see p.216) .
Bie nnial foxgloves require a
1emperature or 70°F (21°C) in light to
germinate; this should take 20 days.
If needed , iransplan l seed lings with in
seven days.
Seedlings with dark stems are more
likely to have purple flowers. So,ne
cu ltivars nower 20 weeks after sowing,
but usually they flower the following
year in late spring and early summer.

COREOPSIS TICKSEED
Seeos from c:arlr -.pnng 10 early summer!
The annuals in Lhis genus self-sow.
Seeds form in papery, disklike heads
and arc easi ly removed when dry, as
for Helia111hus (see p.224). \Nhen sown,
they take five days to germinate at a
temperatu re of 70°F (2 1°C) in light.
Transplant Lhe seedlings (see p.217),
if necessary, as soon as they are large Foxgloves (here Digitalis purpurca) readily Looi< for seedlings at the foot of the 1><,re111
enough to handle. The plants should 1 self-sow around rhc garden. Seed rnpsules 2 11Jants in late s1mwicr or em·Jy autumn.
come into flower with in 12-16 weeks. form tllong each flower spike in early or Choose a cool. da111p c/c,y to C1voicl drying out
Coreopsis Li11ctoria (syn. Calliopsis midsummer and, wlien riJJe, tl1ey SJJlit open 1l1t seedlings· roots. mul t.rm1.SJ1lant those wirl1 tu
ti11ctoria) prefers sandy soil. to shed copious 11111011111s of s111all scc,ls. lcosr four lcm cs into beucr flowering positions.
1

D IANTHUS PINK, CARNATION

S eeos in late :,pnng and early summer,
The annuals and b iennials in this genus
naturally hybridize very readily, so
Lhere is often a good d eal of variat ion,
often quite pleasing, in seedlings from
ho me-collected seeds (see p.216). Mall)'
Dia111hus arc also good subjecls for
deliberate hybridizing (see p.21). Seeds
are formed in a capsu le.
Sow seeds outdoors (see p.218) a l a
1emperaLure of 70°f (21 °C); germ ination
takes five days. Bienn ials flower 12 Lift 11,e seedlings wid1 <l hmul rmwd so thar Trn11splC11111/,e scedli11gs at least J2in
months after sowing, but some can be
sown as annuals; annuals flower in 16
3 em~J1 ,ewins a ~ood balJ of soil amwul its
roots. TJiis protects die• roots from dmnagc and
4 (30011) apan. Replant i'C1cl1 seedling at the
some cleptl1 c,s before, with its mots well SJ>read
weeks. (See also Perennials, p.193.) e11s1m·s that the scecllings establish rnpiclly. out Firm i1 iu gt•ntly, water, <md lllbe-1.

O THER ANNUALS AND BIENNIALS

CARTHAMUS Sow annuals as for
Ce11ww·eC1 (sec p.222); biennials
as for Ct11listepl111s (see p.22 l) l-
CEN1'AURIUM (syn. Erythrac<1)
Sow annuals and biennials at
50°F (10°C) when seeds ripen
or in miclautumn ,.
Ccrt1ALIPTCRUM Sow as for
Brnc1ea11tha (see p.221) l-
CH1R1'1A Sow seeds of annuals
(sec p.2 J7) in succession from
la1e winter to spring. a1
66-75°F {19-24°C) lU-
Ct.ADA'<TBUS Sow as for
Calfisrephus (see JJ.221) 1-
Coax Sow as for Zim1ia
(sec p.229) 1.
Co1.1.tNSIA Sow as for Clarllia
(see p.222) 1. Thin autumn
sowings in spring. Self.sown
C. l>icolor seedlings come fairly
lruc~ seeds are bcsl sown direct.
Cou.OMIA Sow as for Clarl1ia
(sec ft1ci11g page) 1-
Con;u, Surface-sow (see JJ.2/7)
seeds of annuals at 55-64°F
( 13-18°C) in springU.
CREPIS Sow seeds of annuals
(see ,,.2 J8) as soon as rhe seeds
ripen at 50-59°F (10-15°() 1-
Sow seeds of
Cn:oc;1.osstJM
annuals and bicn nials om doors
in midspring. Needs light to
germinme ,I.. C. amabile is best
sown direct.
D1MORPUOTIICCA Sow as for
Brt1cl1ysco111e (sec JJ.220), bur
cover the seeds with soil mix!,

223
A-Z OF ANNUALS AND BIENN I ALS
D OROTHEANTHUS
I CE PLANT, LIVINGSTONE DAIS\'
SEEDS from earl)' to midspnng !
Seeds or these annuals are produced
in a fleshy capsule that should be
dried thoroughly before removing the
fin e seeds. Sow then, at a temperatu re
or 70°F (21 °C) for germination in
ten days and flowe rs in 16 weeks.
Transplant the seedlings, if needed,
in seven to ten days. In colder regions,
if sowing in containers under cover
(see p.217) , harden the seedlings wel l
(see pp.218 and 45) before planting
them out.
ERYSIMUM W ALLFLO\VER
SEEDS in late spring or early sunnner,
The few annual and biennial species
produce seeds freely in long pods.
They arc easily removed once the pods
have been dried (see /J.216) and have
split o pen . Sow the seeds at 70°F
(21 °C) 10 germinate in five days. \.\/hen
transplan ting the seedlings (see p.219),
trim the taproots to promote formation
of fibrous roots 10 help plants establish
more easily after p lanting. (See also
Perennials, p.196. )
ESCHSCHOLZIA CALIFORNIA POPP\'
Seeos from earl>· 10 l:1tc :,pring :md in c.irly
aulumn i Germination usually takes ten days
The annuals are quite hardy and produce
seeds very [reel)', so self-sown seedlings
that arc fairly true 10 t)•pe readily arise.
They do not transplant well, however, so
it is best to gather the seeds before they
are scau ered (see below). Sow the seeds
direct outdoors (see p.218).
GATHERING CALIFORNIA POPPY SEEDHEADS
UNRIPE SEEl)llEAOS To g111licl' the seeds,
n:move 11,e long, thin pods as soon as they
turn c,,lor from green to brown in early to
midsummer. before 1Jiey burst open and
scauc,· ll,e see'll.s.
224
G AILLARD IA
B u1NKET FLO\VER
SEEDS i 1l early .spring.
The annuals in, this genus bloom heavily.
The seeds, produced in papery cases,
are fair!)' large and easi ly handled. Sow
in containers in colder climates (see
p.217). Germ ination takes 20 days at a
te1npera1urc o r 70°F (21 °C). Seedlings
are transplanted, if necessary, within
seven 10 ten days. Plants flower in 16
weeks. (See also Perennials, p.197.)
GYPSOPHILA B ABY'S BREATH
Seeos in early to
::.printt,
The annuals in th is
genus arc easy 10
propagate from
seeds; germination
can ta ke up 10 ten
Gyp,o,,hil" clays. They are best
,Jcxcms sown direct (see p.218)
because they do not transplan t well.
Sow at 70°F (2l°C). If necessary,
transplant the seedlings as soon as they
are large enough to handle. The annuals
flower in 12-1 S weeks. (See also
Perennials, p.199.)
at a temperature of 60°F (I S.5°C).
Carefu lly transplant seedlings singly,
if necessary, within seven days.
Sow successive batches of seed for
a prolonged flower display. In colder
c limates, protect autu1nn-sown seedlings
in winter. California poppies generally
flower in 12-16 weeks.
Ril'~·,1i11g
s.eecll1rtUI
\
Small Sftcb
Rt PE SEEDllEAOS /Is eacl, capsule ,fries
in die s1111, u11sio11 builds up within its wafls.
Eventually, tlie capsule explodes. ejccti11g the
seeds with&"'"' fo,.cc w disperse them <ts fw·
from the 1>m'c111 plant as plJssible.
H ELIANTHUS SUNFLO\VER
SEEDS fn.>m 1:-th.' winter to early spring 1
The Oowerheads of the annu als in
th is genus are often large and can be
12in (30cm) or more across. The la rge
seeds form in a disklike secdhcad in
the cen te r of the flower and are easily
extracted (see below). Bear in mind,
however, that the cultivars hybridize
very freely and therefore may not come
true from collected seeds. Sun flowers
are worth experimenting wi th to create
new h)•brids (see p.21 ).
Sunflowers resen t root d isturbance,
so sow di rect (see p.2 J8) or singly in
pots (see p.217) or rockwoo l p lugs
(see Convolvulus, p.222). Germ ina tion
m1d-
is re liable and takes five days at an
optimum temperature of 70°F (21°C).
If transplanting is necessary, carry out
within seven clays and replant a liule
deeper than before to support the
seedling stems. Sunflowers bloom in
16-20 weeks. (See also Perennials, ,,.200.)
EXTRACTING RIPE SEEDS
In lme sw11111cr or corly auw11111, choose"
1 sunflower he<ul (htrc of I lclianthus annuus)
tlwr is al""'' ro go over and c111 it off. C,ircf11lly
nib off the chaff f1'0111 a111011g the ril'c seeds in
the cenrcr of the flowe,heacl.
•
•
••
Grip the flowerhead fin11ly in botl1 hcm,ls
2 anti bend i, so rhat 1l1t seed nwss opens ttp
slightly. Nold the flowerhead Ol'cr a elem, sheer
1,J pape,. mul srmlle ir fir111ly wit!, one l1and. The
seeds should pop 0111 1111d fall 1mro the l'"I'""
 D OROTHEANTHUS - LAG ENAR lA

l BERIS CANDYTUFT l POMOEA MORNING GLORY

SEEDS from early spring to
early summer OI' in aununo !
The annuals in 1his
genus produce greaL
quanLities or seeds in
pods after floweri ng
. .
111 spnng or summer.
11,,.;s Sow the seeds outdoors
"""'"' (see p.218) in successive
batches [or a long and conLinuous
display, and in autumn for early
flowering in the [ollowing year. The
seeds germinaLe readily in eight days
at a temperature or 70°F (21°C) .
Candy1uf1 plants take 12-16 weeks
10 flower.
Seeos from miclspring 10 early summer J
The climbing annuals, which are ,nost
often grown from this genus, are qui Le
tender. The seeds, produced in rounded
capsules, are large and easily handled
buL are LOxic if ingested. Soak them in
Lepid water [or 24 hours before sowing
and keep them a1 a Le1npera1ure or 64°F
(18°C) LO ensure good germinaLiOn.
This usua lly takes five days.
Sow Lhe seeds singly in containers
(see p.218) in cool climaLes, ouLdoors in
warm climates. If needed, Lransplan1 the /J'()MOF.A JRJCOLOR 'HFAVENLY BLUE'
seedlings in seven days. Morning glories Morning glories. 0 11ct gcn11i11cHccl, 1cc1ufrc"
(syn. 1\4i11a , Pharbitis) like a fertile soil minimum tempcrtUun: of '15°F (7°C) cmdjl'rtile
mix . They flower in 16 weeks. soil; lllcy flower obunda11tly during s111111nc,:

IMPATIENS BALSAM, L AGURUS HARE'S TA IL

B USY LIZZIE S EEDS in spring or au1um11,

SEEDS from early to late spring U The on ly species or Hare's 1ail,

The annuals range from very Lender
species such as Impatiens balsamina
10 hardier ones such as I. gla11d11lifera.
The lauer can be qui1e invasive.
The ripened seed capsules burst
open and violently ejecLtheir seeds.
The best way 10 collect the seeds is to
tie a tiny bag over each capsu le as soon
as it changes color. Re1nove the bag once
Lhe capsule has released ilS seeds.
Germ ination requires a 1e1nperature
o[ 70°F (21 °C) in light and takes 15
days. Transplant the seedlings, if
necessary, within a similar period of
time. lmp<Uiens seedlings are prone
to da,nping off (see p.46), and they
scorch in hot sun. They take 12-16
weeks 10 flower.
RIPENING IMPATIENS SEEOHEAOS
IVhc11 ripe, Jhc w11fls of c11cl1 sccdl1c(I(/ S/Jlit
llpllrt mid coil baclnvanl so suddenly thm ll,e
seeds arc cjrclfd several Jett from the plmu.
Lagun,s ovatus, is grown for its
fluffy flowerheads, or inflorescences,
which, when dried, remain in1act for a
considerable Lime. Hare's tail grass is a
good choice for poor, sand)• soils in full
sun . ln some regions, it has naturalized
and become a weed. Collec1 1he seeds
in the same way as for Briza (see p.221)
as soon as Lhe flowerheads ripen and
become fluff)' in Lhe summer.
Sow the seeds direct (see p.218) in
spring ror flowers in 12 weeks.In colder
climaLes, auLum n sowings should be
made in coniainers (see p.217) and
placed in a shehered place over winter.
Seeds need a mini1num Lemperature
or 64°F ( l8°C) for germination, which
normally takes ten da)'s. tr necessary,
Lransplant seedlings within 10-14 days.

O THER ANNUALS AND BIENNIALS

Dowr-.1NGIA Sow seeds of
annuals as for Phlox
(see ,,.228) l ,
DRACOCEPltAI.UM Sow as for
Ceiuaurea (see ,,.222) l-
EcmuM Sow seeds (see p.217-9)
at 55-61°F (13-16°C); annuals
in spring. biennials in early
summeru.
EMILIA (syn . C11ca/ia) Sow seeds
of annuals as for Callistephus
(see p.221) l-
ERAGROSTIS Sow as for Brizc,
(sce ,,.221), but in midspringl,
EUPHORBIA Sow annuals in
spring as fo r Nigella (see p.228),
biennials as for E,ysimum
(sec J"ci11g page) l- (Ser ,dso
Cacli and Other Succ ulents,
p.246.)
EusTOMA (syn . lisim11hus) Sow
seeds (see p.217) of annuals and
biennials a, 55-o i• F ( 13-16°C)
in au1umn or lalc- winter U,
ExAClJM Sow annuals and
biennials as for Browallia (see
p.221), but ligh1ly cover seeds
wi1h soil mix U-
Fsucu (syn. Agmllllca) Sow
seeds of annuals as for Impatiens
(see above) l-
G,uA Sow as for Calcndula
( sec ,,.221) ,.
Gu, UClUM Sow as for Calendul"
(sec ,,.221) !, Resents root
disturbance.
GOMPHRENA Sow seeds of
annuals as for Impatiens
(see above) j.
H1:uoP1-m..-, Sow as for Cenwurec,
(sec p.222) l- For wimcr-
nowering container plants. sow
in earl)' spring or autumn a1
61-66°F (l6-L9°C).
1ICSPERIS Sow seeds of biennials
in spring in final position (see
p.218); germination requires a
1cmpcrawrc of 50--59°1'
( I O--l 5°C) l- Self-sown
H. matronalis seedlings come
fairl)' true.
H1B1scus Sow seeds of annuals
a,
(sec pp.217-8) 64°F ( 18°C) in
spring; soak seeds in hot water
for an hour before sowing U-
(Scc also Shrubs and Climbing
Plants, I'· I 3 J.)
HORDEUt-.1 Sow as for Dri:ur
(sec p.221) ! ,
HYOSCYAMUS Sow seeds (sec
pp.217-9) of annuals and
biennials in spring. Taprootcd
seedlings resent rom
dismrbance, so sow in Oowcring
positions. I lcnbanc oflcn self-
sows freely l-
lONOl'Sll)IUM Sow seeds or
annuals in spring, sununcr, or
autumn (see />.217). Plant o r1en
sclr-sows l-
1POMOPSIS Sow seeds orannuals
and biennials (see pp.217-8) a,
55-6 l °F (I 3-l 6°C) in earl)•
spring or in early smnmcr U-
ISATIS Sow seeds 0£ annuals and
biennials (sec />p.217-8) in
autumn or spring al 13-lS°C
(55-64°F) . Self-sows rrccly l-
L\GENARIA Sow seeds of annuals
as for Capsicum (sec p.222). but
soak seeds in tepid waler before
sowing,.

225
A-Z OF ANNUALS AND BIENNIALS
L ATHYRUS SIVEET PEA
SEEDS from m1daulumn LO
midwinter or from earl)'
midspring U
The 1nos1 commo nly
g rown annual in this
genus is the sweet pea,
LaLhyrus odoratus, most
'-"'''>''"' often a climber. The
'Mor:,' seeds, produced in long
pods, are large and easily handled . Pick
seedpods when they turn pale brown
and rattle. Dry then1 (see p.2 I6) until
they split and release the seeds.
ln Hard iness Zones S-9, sweet peas
are best sown in midautumn or late
winter, but early spring sowing can
still give good resuhs.
For the best Oowers, 1he ground
should be enriched some time before
sowing. Dig over the soil in a trench or
block, depending on if the stake supports
are to be erected as a trell is o r tepee. 1r
the soi l is heavy, prepare it in autun111
for spring sowing so it can be broken
down by frost action, or raise the bed .
CHIPPING SEEDS
Cltip the ltarcl coms of blacl, se«ls b) using a
cl«m. shm7, lmife to cw away a small piece of
each sce,I com, or use a soldering gun to burn a
tiuy Julie. 1a,ie CC1rc w nwhe 1he cw well away
Jrnm each seeclS scar (hilum).
SOWING SWEET PEA SEEDS IN CONTAINERS
Sow sweet pen seeds in deeJJ co11winel's thcu
1 allow room for the seccl/i11gs· roots. Fill 5i11
(13cm) pots wirh seed soil mix, mu/ space-sow
5-7 seeds per 1101. Cover rite seeds wir/1 ¼in (1011)
Oj finc-gl'(ldt ve1111itufi(C, fc1bd, cmd Wlltct:
226
10
Sow direct in the open ground (see
below right) in early 10 m idspri ng or in
autumn in warm areas, In cold regions,
sow in containers (see bottom left) in
autumn and winter and germ inate in
a sheltered place, such as a cold frame
lined with 2in (5ctn) of gravel. The
optimum germination temperature is
55°F (13°C) in darkness.
To aid gennination, soak the seeds
overnight in tepid water. Sow the seeds
immediate ly; if left too long, they a rc
p rone to rot. Som e b lack seeds or
cullivars are i111pervious to water and
must be chipped (see below left ) to allow
moisture to reach the seed embryos.
However, some growers consider both
soaking and chipping unnecessary.
Germination takes 15 days.
Seedlings that have not been raised
in individua l containers are transplanted
into open ground or arc first potted
individually into deep 3in (8cm) pots
when they are abou t 2in (5cm) tall. At
all times they tnus t be grown as cool as
SOWING SWEET PEA SEEDS OUTDOORS
PREP;\RING THE SOIL Dig over du: soil, in a
tn.·11ch or blocJ~, aao,rli11g 10 liow rite seeds are
robe sown. Add J-lin (8-/0c111) of wr/1-rouccl
mtmun.~01 compost w 1l1e 1,ouom ()J tire french.
i\lto,, lO sculc for a, least four w,•tlls.
Ltc1ve d,e seeds in a cool, sJ1eherecl place:
2 in colder climmes. a cold frmue is iclcor. Tc>
promote bushy growth, pinch OIH growing lips
when the seedlings have two or more pairs of
leaves. Plmu out as soon as the mots arc visible.
possible, being given protection on ly
i[ the weather is very cold. In warm
condi tions, the seed lings g row too
quickly and become leggy, or they die.
Whereas it is not necessary 10 p inch
out the tips of au tum n-sown seedlings,
i{ is use[ul fo r those raised in win ter
o r spring to e11{'.0Urage sideshoots (see
bo110111 centel'). For exh ibition-quality
plants, al low one shoot to develop,
s upport it with a stake, then remove all
tendrils and sideshoots to concen trate
growth into Oower p roduction.
Sweet peas shou ld start nowering
within 12-l4 weeks, depending on time
or sowi ng, bu t autumn sowings will not
Oower until spring or earl)' summer.
Sweet peas are good plants to
hybridize, and man y amateur gardeners
have produced so111e excellent cultivars.
Pollinate the chosen seed parent
(sec right) and protect it from insect
pollination by tying a ,nuslin bag over it
ror a few days. Collect the seeds in late
summer. (See also Hybridizing, p.21.)
DIRECT·SOWING UNDER A TEPEE Firs,
co11srruc1 <1 tcpcc of six 8f1 (2.5m) sutl1es. Mal,e
" hole abo111 I i11 (2.5cm) d,,,·p 011 both sic/cs of
t'ad1srnke. Sow a few srcds in eoch hole. CO\ er
O\Cr: tmcl Ji, m. \Vain in if rhr soil is cl,y.
USING TUBE POTS
To a\'oid disturbing the seedlings' roots, sow
rite seeds i11 wbe pots i11s1eacl of standard
pots. Almost fill rhe rube pots wi1h seed soil
mix. Sow tlie seeds sil~ly a11d cover wi1l1
¼i11 (Jc,11) of mix. L<,bel wul ware,:

HYBRIDIZING SWEET PEAS
Clt00S<-" a Slt"m on ,he :,eed p<1tnu (hcn-
1 Lalh)'rus 'Mars') that has our or two
unopeued flowers. Pinch off open Jlo"e,s: 1hey
alrc(l(ly pollinated (sweet peas cm~ self·
<rl't
poUinating). Also n·mo\e any immarurc flowers.
H"ld l"'cl' 1he wings of 11ie scctl-p1,ren1
2 jloh'er w expose the heel. Vsing a needle o,·
a safcry pin. p,y opeu the lu:d to revec1I the ten
sramens with their poUcn-bearing cmrhcrs.
Use J,ne rw,cezers re, pincl1 off"" 11,e
3 suoucns from around d1t_
Taite care not damage the
· Ct'11t r'<tl
sr igma.
s1i~nw or to kmc
to
any snags that could encourage rot.
r,.1,, a fully open flower of 1l1e pollen /J/ll'enr
4 (here Lathyrus 'Mwgarer Joyce'). Holding
it by its wings. place its lied ovcl' the seed IKH'tHtS
stigma. Shelite the pollen flower w transfer its
rfpc 1mllc11 to the seed parcutS stigma.
L AVATERA MALLO\V
SEEDS fron'I carlr tO hue ~1,ring or earl} ~ummcr U
These annuals and biennials have
disklike seedheads. Sow annuals in
spring and biennials in earl)' summer in
a sheltered place. The seeds take 14 days
to germinate at 70°F (2 l °C). Transplant
seedlings, if necessary, within seven
days. Annual mallows nower in 12-16
weeks. (See also Shrubs and Climbing
Plants, p. I 33.)
('.,~
Clrnff
• •
5ffd ,md
{)II(' ( OCll llvo ((WIS
Su,l mul
f1irct• CO<US
SORTING SEEOS FROM -rm; CM1\FF
,\1<,/low seeds ha1•c rlu~c co/lls or layers of cluiff;
somr layers may JaH away. \Vhc11 storing or
sowing seeds, be sure 10 discard alf loose chaff.
L INARIA TOADFLAX
SEEDS from early lO midspring or in summer,
The annuals in this genus are the most
often grown, although there are some
biennials, which are sown in early
summer. Seeds are produced in dry
capsules. Sow ou tdoors (see p.2 I 9);
the seeds are relatively small, so take
care not 10 sow then, too thickly.
The opti mum temperature for
germ ination is 55°F ( 13°C). Seedlings
appear in ten days; if necessa,y,
transplant them as soon as thC)' arc
large enough to handle. Most plants take
l 2 weeks to nower. Annual toadnax self-
sows very freely; transplant the seed lings
as for Digitalis (see p.223).
OTHER ANNUALS ANO BIENNIALS
l.AYIA Sow seeds of annuals as for
Calc11cl11l11 (see p.221 ) j.
LEGOl ,u Sow as for Calcndul" (sec p.221) 1-
LEL"CA~TlttMLt-.·t Sow as for Ce11taurea
(see ,,.222) l
LIMNA~ TMES Sow as for C,dcuclul" (sec
p.221), bul protect autumn sowings over
winter in colder regio ns•· Self.sown
L. clouglasii seedlings come fairly true.
LIN,INTIIUS Sow as for Ce11f<11U'ell (see p.222) j.
L1No1-tc1t-.1CRA Sow as for Cenuu,reu (scr
p.222) ,.
Ll~L \I Sow as for Cenraurea (sec p.222) j.
Flowering nax ( L grn11//iflor11111) dislikes
root disturbance. so sow seeds direct
(see p.218).
LOBELIA Sow seeds of annuals (see JJ,2 / 7) a,
59-77°F ( 15-25°() in late wimcr and early
spring. Readily self-sows in suitable climates
U. (Sec lllso Perennials, p.202.)
Louuu1R1,1 Sow seeds or annuals (sec p.218)
L ATHYRUS - M ALVA
L UNARIA HONEST\~
MONEY PLANT
SEEDS m earl) ~ummcr,
Lu11aria a1111ua (syn. L. bie1111is) may
be annual or biennial, but it is usually
grown as a bien nial. Being very free-
secd ing, it naturalizes ver)' readil)•,
and self-sown seedlings are easily
transplanted, as for Digitalis (see
p.223). The prominent nat, translucent
seed heads arc valuable for dried nower
arrangemenls.
Dry the scedheads thorough!)'
before extracting the seeds (see below).
The seeds take 14 da)'s to germ inate at
64°F ( 18°C). Transplant the seedlings,
if necessary, with in two weeks. If grown
as a biennial, nowering is in late spring
or early summer of the following year.
GATHERING I IONES1 \" se,,os
111 ~un11tw,; when Ul()Sr of the fla1 scrdhc(l(IS Utile
on rhc appt'm'tmcc mid tcxwrc of silvny tissue
papc,. the sec,h arc ripe. Cur off a flowt~r stem
mul peel mw,y 1ht' ow<·r slli11 Jron1rad1 sick of
"seetll,eml. Pich rhc lmgc j1111 ,crih from rhc
cent ,.,,I. i1111c, mtmbmnc.
in early 10 late spring a, 50-59°F ( 10-15°()
1, Selr-:,own L. maririma seedlings come
fairly (TUC.
LO~A, Sow as for Cc11111ure11 (sec p.222) ,.
LL Pt~u, Sow as for Centa11 rca (see ,,.222)
artcr nicking the seeds or soaki ng them
for 24 hours i. (Sec also Perennials, ,,.202.)
LYCIINIS (syn. Visc"ria) Sow as for Erysimum
(see p.224) ,.
Sow seeds of annuals (see
MAI <.01 ,11,,
a,
p.2 /8) from laie spring +-6 weekly
intervals for succession or nowcrs:
germinates at 50-59°F (l0-l5°C) , .
Self-sown M. marifima seedlings come
fairly true 10 type.
Sow as for Ceu11111rc11 (sec p.222) ~.
M ,\I OPL
Self-sown M. 11·if,d11 seedlings generally
come fairly true.
MA1VA Sow seeds of annuals and biennials
as for Ce,uaurcc, (sec ,,.222) or E,ys1111mn
(see p.224) ,.
227
A-Z OF ANNUALS AND BIENNIALS
M ATTHIOLA GtLLYFLO\\fER,
STOCK
Seeos from m1dwimcr
lo miclspring or in
mid~um1ner U
Annuals in this genus
are bes1 raised in
con1aincrs (see p.217)
Mt11thiolcr under cover in colder
·Gmn, rxccb1or' climates, but 1here arc
different cuhivars for different seasons.
Seeds are produced in abundance in
long, narrow pods and germinate in
ten da)'S al 70°F (2 l °C).
Transplant seedl ings wiLhin a week
or so. Double-flowered cuhivars can
be selected a1 the seed ling stage. Move
all the seedl ings to a place below 50°F
(l0°C): 1hose seedlings whose seed
leaves become )'Cllowish green will then
develop double flowers.
In cold regions, pro1ec1ion (see p.39)
over winier will be necessary for biennial
sLOcks grown for au1umn 1ransplan1ing.
Annual stocks flower in 12-16 weeks:
biennials 1hc following spring.
M YOSOTlS FORGET-ME-NOT
Seeos in hue spring or c~uly ~ummc-r * P APAVER
The biennial cul1ivars of Myosotis
sylvatica arc mos1 often grown. They
self-sow freel)' and come reasonabl)'
!rue 10 l)'pe. Lifl spent plan1s and lay
them under shrubs or in woodland so
1hcy can shed 1heir seeds and become
naturalized. To save seeds, lay 1he entire
plant in a paper-lined seed tray 10 dry
(sec p.216); 1he seeds should fall into
1he bo11om of 1he 1ray.
Sow 1he seeds outdoors (see p.219)
or in con1aincrs (see p.217). Sow seeds
of M. arve11sis in spring. Germina1ion
occurs a1 55°F (l3°C) in darkness in
abou1 five days. Transplant the seedlings
10 a nursery bed, 1hen in their flowering
posi1ions in autumn. Biennials flower
in spring of 1he following )'Car.
N ICOTIANA
fLOIVERING TOBACCO
SEEDS in early to late !>pring,
Annuals in 1his genus produce seeds
in oval capsules in su,nmcr and autumn.
The seeds arc very fine and need light
for germination; mix them wi1h fine
sand and surface-sow 1hem (see /J.217).
They require a temperature of 70°F
(2 l °C) in order to germinate in 20
cla)'s. Seedlings arc 1ransplan1ed, ir
necessary, wi1hin seven days. Flowering
tobaccos take 12 weeks 10 reach
flowering size.
228
N IGELLA LOVE-IN-A-MIST, DEVIL- IN- A- BUSH
Seeos from c::irly LO miclspring or early 10
mid:nmunn l
These quite hard)' annuals have inflated
seed capsu les; gather 1he111 as the)' ripen
(see below). The)' also self-sow freely,
producing copious amounts of seeds
1hat sca11er on the ground around 1hc
planl. Nigella damascena seed lings come
fairly 1rue; lift and transplant them as
for Oigi1alis (see p.223).
GATH ER I NG N IGELLA SEE DS
Jn ~um mer. wJ1cn rhc seed C'apsulc) begin to
1rum brown, (ut them "JJ wul pfoce du·m in tr
scmn·r or trny li11NI with dew, blouiug pnpct o,
11t·wspapt'J: I flf\'C rhcm in Cl wc11 m. sw111y pfocc
until fhf scrdlumds cul' completely ,lry.
POPPY
SEEOS from c~rly to mid•
spring or from l.uc spring 10
Cilrl)' S\Ul)llltl' J Mos1 often grown is the fragrant annual
There are annual and
biennial poppies. The
distinctive "pepper poi"
seed capsules produce
Pap,o'n rh(J,·t1, large quantities or Seeds
Shirley Serie, and readily self-sow.
Papaver rlioeas seedlings come fairly
true. Ga1her capsules as 1hey change
color, and lay in 1rays 10 ripen. Simpl)'
shake out the seeds (see p.216).
Sow annuals in spring and biennials
la1cr. They gcnninate readi ly, in 20 days
a1 55°F ( l3°C) in ligh1. The tap-roo1ed
seedlings resent roo1 disturbance so are
best sown direct or transplanted once
1hey have two true leaves, or ,vithin
seven da)'S. Annuals flower in 12
weeks, biennials 1he rot lowing spring
or summer. (See also Perennials, p.204.)
P HLOX
SEEDS from ~arly lo l:ttt• :,pring il
There are a few annuals in this genus.
The seeds, produced in oval capsu les,
germinate wi1hin ten clays al a
temperature of 64°F (l8°C) in darkness,
and 1he seedlings are 1ransplan1ed, if
necessary, within a week. Annual phlox
nower in 12-16 weeks. (See also
Perennials, p.206.)
Sow seeds ouidoors (see p.219) when
the soi l 1empera1ure reaches 64°F
(18°C). Seeds genninate readily within
1cn da)•S. If necessary, seedlings should
be lransplanted in seven 10 14 da)'S.
Au1u1nn-sown seedlings need protection
(see pp.39-40) over winter in colder
climates. PlanlS flower in 12-16 weeks,
or in 1he following spring if they are
autu111n-sown.
..
Slraltt• mu thr snwll seeds from rhc dried
2 «IJ'Sulcs onto some dcmr JJCIJJcr. If necessary,
Sk\'C' thmugl, a finc·meshetl sieve liJ winnow
our any chaff Swn· the sci~tl~ in labeled 11«pcr
l",cl,e1s in a cool. clry t>frice.
R ESEDA MIGNONETTE
SEEDS eMly to mid~pdng or c:uly 10 midnutumn l
Rescd,1 oclorata. To collect seeds, remove
and dry flower spikes before 1hc small
seed capsules spli1 (see p.216). Seeds
germina1e at 70°F (2l°C) in five days.
tr needed, transplant seedlings in seven
10 ten days. Pro1ec1 autumn sowings
over winier in colder regions (see
pp.39-40). Annuals flower in 12-16
weeks, autumn sowings in spring.
R UDBECKlA CONEFLO\\IER
SEEDS from c;i.rly lo midspring 1
The seeds of these annuals are easily
removed from paper)' seedheads. If
raising in con1ainers, do 1101 sow loo
deeply. Seeds genninate in 20 days
al 70°F ( 21 °C). If needed , 1ransplan1
seedlings within seven da)'S,
Coneflowers take 20 weeks 10 flower.
SALVIA SAGE
SEEDS in early 10 l:uc :,pring,
The annual S,1lvia cocci11ea and
S. sple11dc11s (scarlet sage) are the most
widely grown. Save seeds as for Reseda
(see above). The)' germinate a1 70°F
(21°C) in lighl' in 15 days. Transplant
seed lings in seven lo ten days for flowers
in 16 weeks. (See also Perennials, p.208.)
 M ATTH lOLA - ZINNIA

SCHIZANTHUS BUTTERFLY TROPAEOLUM NASTURTIUM V ERBASCUM MULLEIN

FLOWER, POOR MAN'S ORCHID Seeos rrom nucb,pring 10 c~nly ~ummcr ! SEEDS from early 10 hue spl'ing or e-al'ly summer U

Seeos in e,.trl)' spring to early Most of the annuals self-sow read ily Most species are biennials, but a few are
sunmlcr or in hue summer 1 and co1ne fairly true; transplant as for annuals. To save seeds, remove and dry
Digitalis (see p.223). To save the large nower spikes before the seed capsules
These showy annuals seeds, pick them individually when spl it (see p.216). Mix seeds with fine
and biennials nower ripe and dry before storing (see p.21 6) . sand, then surface-sow at SS°F (l3°C).
in 12-16 weeks. Sow Germination takes eight days at 64°F Germination takes l 4 clays. Transplant
annuals in spring for (18°C) in darkness. Transplant the the taproo1ed seedl ings, if necessary,
Sd11::m11l111s su1nmcr Oowcrs or in seed lings, if needed, within a week. as soon as possible afterward - into
pinnmus lale summer for winter- Nasturtiums flower best on poor soils individual pots if raising them in
nowering container plants. Cover seeds in 12-16 weeks. Some Tropaeolum majus co ntainers. Some plants may flower
only very thinly. Gennination at 70°F cuhivars, such as 'Hennine Grashofr, are in 20 weeks from an early sowing,
(21 °C) in light is in seven days. Transplant increased not from seeds but from basal later sowings the following year. (See
seedlings, if needed, within a week. s1e1n or stem-lip cuuings (see pp.154-7). also Perennials, p.212.)

T AGETES MARIGOLD ZINNIA

SEEDS early l o late spring l
Marigolds produce copious amoun ts
of large seeds in feathery scedheads.
Cuhivars freely hybridize and do not
come true from collected seeds, but the
seedlings are often pleasing; it is worth
experimenting with creating your own
hybrids (see p.21).
To save seeds, pick and dr)' entire
seedheads (see p.216) once they ,nature.
Sow seeds without removing the "tails."
Seeds germinate easily, at 70°F (21°C)
in only five days. lf needed, Lransplanl
the vigorous seedlings within seven
days. Flowers appear in 8-12 weeks.
H ARDENING OFF MARIGOLD SEEDLINGS
111 colder climates, seedlings that hmw been rnisetl
indoors nrrd to be Jwrdenfd off under o '"''Cr or
in tr coldfrmnc for ci few wedlS '1efor'e plw1ti11g
our. \ lt~,uHate the seedlings mon· t•c,ch clay.
Seeos from early 10 mi,b,pting U
All species in this genus, including the
annuals, are quite tender. The seeds,
produced in disklike seeclheads, are
large and easily handled. To save seeds,
cut the entire nowerheacl after the petals
have faded and dry before removing the
seeds as for Helia11thus (see p.224).
Sow ai a 1e1npera1ure of 70°F (21°C).
Germination is rapid, within five days.
Transplant the seedlings (see p.217),
if necessary, within seven days; they
dislike root disturbance, so poi them
singly into cells or degradable pois.
Zinnias nower in 16-20 weeks.

O THER ANNUALS AND BIENNIALS

MENTZELIA Sow annuals as for
Ccnraurca (see p.222) 1-
MOLUCC~LLA Chill seeds or
annuals al 3+-41°F (l-5°C) for
1wo weeks. then sow (sec p.218)
a155-6~°F(l3-18°C)
in spring 1.
NeMrS1A Sow seeds (see p.2J 7)
of annuals at 60-70°F
( 15.5-21°C) from early to late
spring 1· Germination may be
erratic abo"c 68°F (200C). Leave
woolly covering on seeds: they
germinate best in total darkness.
Sow seeds of
Nt.\lOPt-111-A
annuals (see p.218) from early
10 late spring at 50-59°F
(J0-15°C) 1-Seedlings dislike
root disturbance. Scl r-sows freely.
NICANl)RA PI-IYSALODES Sow as
for Ce11taurea (see p.222) 1-
Sclf-sow, freely.
NOLANA Sow as for C<1Jlis1ephus
(see p.22 1) 1-
0 ENOntER,\ Sow annuals as for
Ce111<111rea (see p.222), biennials
as for £1ysi111 11111 (see p.224), or
in early autumn!. Sclr-sown
O. bie1111is seedlings come true.
0MP1Lt\LODES Sow annuals ;_15
for Ce111<11ire<1 (see p.222) 1, Sci f-
sown 0 . li11ifolia seedlings come
fairly true.
ONOPORDUM (syn. 01wpordo11)
Sow seeds of biennials (see
p.219) at 50-61°F (10-16°C)
in late spring or early summer
where 1hcy are 10 nower • .
Sclr-sown 0, acanthiun1 and
O. nervosum seedlings come true.
PAN ICUM Sow annuals as for
Cl11ysa11tl1e11111111 (see p.222) 1-
P i:RILU\ Sow seeds as for
Cl11ysa111he11111111 (see J>.222) l-
P1t,\Cl:UA Sow annuals as for
Nigellc, (scefaci11g page); sow
biennials dircc1 in amumn ,.
Pu\TY!:iTE~!ON u urORNl(US Sow
as for Ce11taurct1 (sec p.222) 1-
Seedlings come fairly true.
1'0 1.,·rOGON Sow as for Bri~a
(see p.22 J) 1,
PORTUL\CA Sow as for
Doro1liea111ltus (see p.224) U-
PR0110sc1ot:A(syn. Mar1y11ia)
Sow as for T<1getes (see above) ~-
PSYLUOSl'ACIIYS Sow biennials as
for Tagetes (sec above) and
annuals as for Rurlbcchia (see
ft1ci11g p«ge) 1,
RltODANTUE (syn. Acrodinimn)
Sow as for Rudlx;ckia (see p.228) 1-
SAU'IGLOSSI> Sow as for 1i,gctes
(see abol'e) 1-
SANVl1At IA Sow as for Caleuduln
(see 1>.221) 1,
SCABIOSt\ Sow seeds of annuals
and biennials as for Cale11tlul"
(sec p.221), but in spring 1,
ScouM Sow as for
Ce11tt1urea (see p.222) 1.
$11 l·Nt Sow seeds (sec p.217-9)
or annuals at 50-59°F (10-J 5°C)
in autumn or spring,.
Self-sown
5. <ffmeria ,,..
seedlings come
fairly ll'UC.
S11.\'BUM Sow seeds
of annuals or biennials
direct (see p.218-9) in late
spring or early summer.
Thin 10 2ft (60cm) 1-
Sr-.n'RNIUM Sow seeds
(sec J>.2 J8) or biennials
in Ooweling pos ition at
50-59°F (10-l5°C) in
autumn or late spring.
Germinatio n is erratic i,.
T1 l\'MOPltYLLA Sow seeds of
annuals and biennials as for
Mauhiofr, (sec faciug rmge) 1.
T n110N1A Sow as for Zinnia
(see t1bol'e) 1-
TRA<..IIYMI "'' (syn. Ditliscus)
Sow at 70-F (21°C) in midspring;
germina1ion may be slow u.
T1v1rA Collect ripe seeds or
annuuls in autumn. Store
frost•frce in we1 moss or water
over winter. Sow in spring at
55-64°F (J3-18°C) in wet soil
mix U- (See ,ilso \Vatcr Garden
Plants, p.170.)
•
5 CA8t0SA
ATROPURPUIU:A
COCKADE SERIES

229
 _ACTI AND OTHER
SUCCULENTS
The sculptural, often bizarre forms of this extraordinary group
of plants belie the co1nparative ease with which many in
cultivation may be propagated.

uccu lents evolved to survive in habiLats with

S extreine conditions, particularly periods or
drought. They store \Yater in specialized tissue
offsets, or tubers - these 1nay be divided in various
,vays, according to their habit. Special grafting
techniques exploit the singular anatoiny of cacti,
in swollen roots, steins, or leaves. Many desert n1aking it possible to enhance flowering and
species have tiny leaves, or no leaves at all, to improve gro,vth rates of slow or difficult cultivars.
retain mo isture; others are rainforest epiphytes, Grafting also provides a ineans of perpetuating
living in trees and absorbing \Yater through strap- the exotic defonnities of the
like stems. Cacti make up one family of stein n1onstrose, cristate, or neon-
succulents, distinguished by a unique reature: colored fonns.
the areole, a padlike bud from ,vhich flowers, Raising species from seeds
shoots, and spines gro,v. All cacti are succulents, is slo,ver than vegetative
therefore, but not all succulents are cacti. propagation but is an easy
Other succulents span many plant ran1ilies and and econo1nical way to
so are very diverse in rorm, froin stark, cactusli ke build up a collection.
barrels to treelike leafy species, and also in the It also helps conserve
ways they inay be propagated. Some techniques, stocks or the increasing
such as stem and leaf cuttings, are broadly siinilar numbers of succulent
to those used on herbaceous perennials but ,vith species that are no,v
the advantage that succulent cuttings do not ,vilt endangered in the wild.
as quickly. However, the fleshy cuttings are ve1y
susceptible to rot, so good hygiene is essential ror
success. In the wild, 111any succulents increase by
forming spreading clumps of rosettes, globular MEXICAN HAT PLANT
This succulenr, l<alanchoe
daigremontiana, prod11ces
ti11y plw11le1s m i1s lecif
SAGUARO CACTUS IN FLOWER mmgins. ht the wittl,
TJ1is cacrus, Carnegita gigantea, wiles 150 rl1ey w0t,ld drop off a11d
years to grow 40ft (12111). After 40 years. the fOOl ltC(ll'by. To JJrOp<~gate
first flowers appear. setting IO millio11 seeds a rhese. ccu~fully pie/, off 1he
yc"r; only one seetlli11g survives in fi,•e yrc,rs. pltmtlels cmd plmH rhcm in
Seeds gt:nnitwte readily in culriw,rion. a griuy cactus stJil mix.

231
CACTI AND OTHE R SUCCU LENT S
SOWING SEEDS
T he majority of cacti and succulents
are relatively straightforward lO
raise from seeds. Most germinate quite
quickly if kept warm and moist and,
ahhough they are relatively slow-
g rowing, it is interesting lo watch 1he
new plants develop. Most species are
best sown in late winter so that the
seed lings arc as large as possible before
1hey become dormant in the following
winter. In colder climates, sow seeds
under cover and use a closed case if
possible. The seeds should gennina1e in
spring when the warmer temperatures
encourage plants 10 make active grow1h.
GATHERING SEEDS
Conunercial seeds are available, but
gathering and sowing fresh seeds usual ly
yields beuer results. Most cacti seeds arc
small and round but so,nc, such as those
of prickly pears (Optrnlia), are large
and have ver)' thick coals; 1hey may
take up 10 two )'Cars 10 germ inate. A
few, such as those of Pediocacrus, need
a period of 2-4 weeks chilling in the
refrigerator, at about 37°F (3°C), 10
trigger gcnnina1ion, bu1 these are the
excep1io11s rather than the rul e.
SO\.VING SEEDS AND TRANSPLANTI NG SEE DLINGS
Gr'ir l:reps
mix fn·,·-
<lrtdning
Fill Ort· co11tcji11er. l1ere a 5in
1 (1.3cm) JXIU, '" within ½in (Jc,11)
"f the brim with frcc-,frai11i11g
cactus seed soil mix. Finn lightly.
Pfw;fir bag r>1nrn1s
,f,)1i,ag 0111
Top-d,t·ss IVith a tlri11 layer of
4 fine g,it. Ud,el am/ place a clear
plastic bag C1ver the pot. Keel' lit
{' minimum lrnipe,•,uu,·c of 700F
(2 l°C) wul ill /J<ll1ial shade.
232
\~ Fmled Jlo,ver
~
~:"\_
If gathering seeds, take care to
let the seedpods ripen on the
plant; if harvested too early, many
i_i ;, '
·
,'._:_ Seoctio
J..tv
Parachtitr
of the seeds may llOl have developed ~\":----
1
~~1
St't'(IS
sufficenily 10 germ inate when sown. If - ~ /
seeds need lO be stored , keep them cool ' .._,.
and dry in a paper envelope. Sieve dry 1 ."/::-- Echinoc:u.;tu>
seeds 10 remove any chaff, which could \Voolf_y sccclpO!l
cause rot later. Remove as much pulp as
possible from seeds of flesh)' fruits, then
squash the wet seeds onto a paper
towel and allow them 10 dr)'·
Seedpods of succulerus vary ~
widely. Plants in the crassula
fam ily mostly have small pods, ~ Aloe J:uroph:o
which become papery and dry Split rnpsule \Voo,ly rnrisulc
when ripe; these contain tiny,
Echinopsis
dustl ike seeds. Shake them
Html 'H't'th in
oul over a sheet of paper. fli·shy f, uir
Mesembryan themums
have buuonlike capsu les that also turn
brown when ripe; moisten the capsu les
10 help them open and release the seeds. TYPES OF SEEDIIEAO
Euphorbias have pods with three Some d,) seedpods si,lil Ol'en w rdnise seeds.
1
chambers, each of which contains 011e wl1ik woody pods opcu wl1c11 moistened by rain.
round seed . When ripe, the pod Othc,s lwvt.·Jlulfy •·parachutes''; each plume is
suddenly bu rsts lo eject the seeds far carried in the wind to disrribure its sef<I. Seeds
from the plant; 10 gather them , tie a in fleshy fruits arf e<Hcu by tmimals mid clisprrse,I
small paper bag over a ripening pod. in rhc dropf'ittgs - n·(f(ly-madc seedbeds.
F1111gici,k i,i w,ue,
/11 0lf<IS <1ge1i11.~1
LA RG E SEE DS
cJmnping off
Press eacl1seed into ll,e soil
mix and sow at C\\licc the seeclS
Sprin,ifc scccls n•c11Jy ovc, Use" fine mist -sprnyer 10 own dep1h. Space seeds about
2 the soil mix surface by gently 3 lightly 111oistc11 tire srufacc of ¼i11 (I c111) a1>art so they have
lllp/Ji11g the pac/11·t. If tire setds a r,· d,e soil mix, malling .:.we nut to enough room to develo1,.
li11y, miY them witl1 fine smuf firsr. ovtrwmtl' or distufb the set:cls.
Use' <1 1ool
fodifti11g Cacius :;r~tlling5
~ffding:,; hm't' soft lipinc~
·rransfer the seedlings lo a Oh1idc tl1c dump into single Top-dress each ,,or with a
5 bright /Jlacc "t 59°F (15°C). 6 seedlings, hce11ing c1s much 7 ¼i11 (5111111) layer of fine gril.
\Vhr11 d1r seedlings are beginning soiJ mix amuncl tlte roots as possible Label. Keep 11,e pots <H a minimum
w crowd each othe1; carefully lift (see inset). Set each plwu i11w a temperature of 59°F ( I 5°C) and
a cl11111p of 1lre111 from tire pot. 2½in (6cm) pot of cact11s soil 111ix. wmer sparingly after a few ,lays.

TRANSPLANT ING SUCCULENTS
\Vl1e11 tnmsplcmting succulent seedlings (here of
Gasteria crouchcri). fift them our individually
frnm rhc seed rroy. 'fohc care 1101 w damage ll1ei,
Jmgik roots or leaves.
SOWING SEEOS
The majority of cac1i and succulents
are quite s low 10 grow once they have
gennina1ed, so i1 makes sense 10 sow
seeds in sma ll containers 10 save space.
A 2in (5cm) pol is ideal for 25-30 seeds
or a 5i n ( 13cm) pan for 50-100 seeds,
whi le a seed 1ra)' is large eno ugh for
1,000 seeds.
Sow the seeds as shown (see facing
page). Use an open, free-drain ing soil
mix 10 avoid rol. A specialized cactus
soil mix is fine; allernalively, make a
mix of one pan very fine (¼in or 3mm),
sharp grit o r coarse sa nd 10 two pans
of pouing mix , peal, or sterilized soil.
The g ri Lmay be sold as bird griL in pet
s1ores. Shell grit is 100 lim)•. Unless
sterilized firsL (see p.33), vegetable
mailer, such as leaf mold, can coniain
fungal and bacterial spores, which
in1roduce disease 10 seedlings.
Cover 1he surface of the soil mix
and seeds with a shallow layer of grit
10 help keep the seeds in close con1ac1
with the soil mix and discourage ro1
as the seedlings develop. Sharp sand is
used someti mes ins1ead , but it is less
suitable because ii has a tendency 10
sol idify and reiain wa1er and may also
encourage algae and moss 10 develop.
\l\1aLer 1he seeds after sowing, either
b)• spraying carefully (see facing page)
o r from below. Do 1his by immersing
Lhe conLainer in a dish of waler 10
abou1 half its dep1h for abou1 an hour,
1hen remove it and al low il 10 drain. To
provide 1he seedlings wilh pro lection
against da1nping off (see p.46), add a
general-purpose fungicide 10 the water.
Put 1he container in a warm place,
such as a closed case , but shielded from
direct su n. Seeds in single polS may be
SOWING SEEDS
sealed in clear plastic bags ins1ead of a Small seedlings have a very delicate roo1
closed case. Keep at 70-86°F (21-30°C), systems that are easily damaged during
depending on 1he species (see A-Z of trans planting. ll is therefore bcsl to leave
Cacti and 01her Succulen1s, pp.242-51). the seed lings undisturbed for as long
Many lypes of seeds wi ll germinate in as possible unlil lhey become quite
2-3 weeks; lower lempera1urcs tend lO crowded, provided there are no 01her
ex1end 1his period. In hot cond i1ions, reasons for 1ransplan1ing them , such as
above 90°F (32°C), germinalion is very signs of an infection or any algae or
poor, and the seeds will lie dormant moss growth on the soil mix.
until the lcmperaiure drops.
Keep 1he soil mix fairly moisl unti l T RANSPLANTING SEEDLINGS
1he firs! seeds have germinated, 1hen After several mon1hs 10 two years, when
move 1hcm 10 a cooler enviro nmen1, at 1he seedlings are large enough lo hand le
a minimum of about 59°F (15°C). Once comfonably, lift them from the co ntainer
1he seedlings appear, remove them from and gently tease 1hem apan. Cac1us
1he closed case or plastic bags. seedlings have very soft spines and can
generally be handled wi1hout pro1ec1ive
SEEDLING CARE gloves, but avoid touching and bruising
Keep the containers of seedli ngs in a Lhei r clelicale roots.
warm , ligh1ly shaded area. They should Seedlings 1ha1 arc lin (2.5cm) or
be watered regu larl y and 1101 be allowed more in diameter should be poued in10
10 dry oul. Take care not 10 saturate lhe 2-2½in (5-6cm) pots. Smaller seedlings
so il mi.x , however, because keeping the will grow beuer if planted in rows in
seedlings con linuously wel will soon seed trays or pans, spaced about twice
make 1hc1n stan to rot. their o wn diam e1er apart. They can then
Afler germina1ion, the seedlings wil l be grown on again unti l crowded before
appear 10 do very liule for 1-3 mon ths 1he)• need 10 be polled individually. In
while they develop 1hcir root systems. all cases, use a griuy cactus soi l mix.
Many cactus seed lings will look like After transplan1ing, allow seedlings
very small peas al about six months old. to seule and heal any damaged roolS for
After this stage, 1hey should double in a few days before watering. Place in a
size every lhree 10 six months, being bright position , bu1 keep out of full sun
about l -2in (2.5-5cm) in diameter in until the seed lings have established and
2-4 )•ears after sowing. The tall species show visible signs of new growth, 1hcn
of columnar cactus usua lly grow more treat as adult plants. Small plants will
quick!)• than 1his. benefiL from pro1ec1ion from strong sun .
POLLINATI NG F LOWERS BY HAN D
Many cacti and succule111s are nol sclf-fcnile S1ignw
and must be fcnilizcd by pollen from
another plant~ usually two Oowering plants
of the same species are needed 10 produce
seeds 1ha1 should come true 10 type. Anther
Many species will cross-pollinate wit h
another species from the same genus,
but the resulting seedlings will
differ from both parents, often
being intermediate between
the two. Seedlings of hybrid
parents typically show even
greater variation. Plants grown
under cover or those being
used for hybridization (see
p.21), mus1be pollinated by
hand (see right).
Cross-pollinate
1,,lams grow11
under cover w/ien the maJc Trans tllf polle11 to rhe
muliers w-e ripe and lacltn 2 ripe, sticky female stigma
with 11olle11. Use a small, 011 a flower of anotJier plant
den11 paintbrnsh ro gather (hem an Epiphyllum) of t!1e
the polle11 from the anthers smne species or cuhivar (or of ,1
of a flower on 011e plan, - diffemnt species but same genus
rhe polle11 pam111. if producing a new Jiybrid).
233
CAC TI AND OT HER SUCCULENTS
DIVISION
ividing cacti and other succulents is
D a relative!)' straigh tforward and fast
wa)' of obtaining new plants of a decent
size. The technique is panicularl)'
useful for propagating hybrids, selected
forms, and variegated plants, which are
unlikely to come true from seeds.
There arc various methods of division,
depending on the t)•pe of rootstock. Some
plants form clu,nps of offsets, which
develop their own root systerns; others
spread by means of underground stems,
or stolons, which produce plan tlets a
li ttle wa)' from the parent; carpeung or
trailing species often root at intervals
along the stems; and o ther succulents
increase from tubers.
The easiest way to decide how 10
divide a plant is to lift it or knock it out
of its pot, shake off as much of the soil
or soil mix as possible, and inspect the
roots. The basic principle for all division
is to separate a vigorous plant into a few
sections, each of which has its own roots
and growing point o r shoots.
Mall)' succulents have ncsh)' roots,
which mar easil)' rot if damaged during
division and then allowed to Sta)' wet.
lt is therefore wise to let divisions of
plants settle in thei r new containers or
positions for a few days before watering
them , in order to allow an)' root da,nage
a chance to heal.
D IVIDING SUCCULENT ROOTSTOCK$
Some clump-forming succulents with
a crown of shoots, such as Scd111n
spec,abile (syn. Hylotelephium specwbile),
ma)' be treated as herbaceous perennials
(see p.148). Divide a clu1np at the siart
of the growing season, as shown below,
making su re that each sect ion has at
least o ne health)' g rowing poi nt and
some health)', vigorous roots.
DIVIDING SUCCULENT ROOTSTOCK$
Divide the plant (here Sc<lum spec,abile)
1 as ,t comes into growth in ,he s11ri11g. Lift
whole plani with a for1t, talti11g care not 10
1l1e
dC1111C1gc rhe roots mu/ fleshy leC1ves. Shake off
as much soil as possible from rl,e roors.
234
DIVID ING CLUMP-FO RMI NG SUCCULENTS
·tt.1ke ojf~tt> from
edge of plant
Scmpe ,ow,y soil 11ux m·owul
1reveal,,m-cmbase of each offsCl . Deracl, an offsCl anti
ro
the
1/re
(here Hawonhia cymhifonms)
by cutting s1raiglu across the• joint with the
l'"rent . Allow the wouml to Cllllus (sec inset).
DIVISION OF SUCCULENT OFFSETS
Mall)' types of succulen t form clumps
by produci ng offsets around the parent
plant. These usuall)' develop much 1nore
quickly while attached to the parent, bu1
periodically dividing the clump creales
"instant" new plants. T he best time to
divide most clump-form ing plants is at
the start of the growing season in spring
o r early sum,ner (see also A-Z of Cacti
and other Succulents, pp.242-51 ).
When dividing the plant, first li ft
it or remove it from its contai ner and
shake off as much soil mix as will come
away easil)' from the roots. It is then
easy to select and detach offsets that
have already rooted , before replanting
the parent and the offsets. Alternatively,
take offsets from the perimeter of a plan t
without lifting it, as shown above.
Pull apart rhe pla111 into pieces, each witl1
2 " roor sysrcm abo111 1fre si:ie of" IC11-ge hand.
Discmtl a,1y woody, old growtl, fmm tlte center
of 1he plant. Rq,lmu each 1>iece, spacing rhem
about 2ft (60cm) llllClrt. 1111d ware, in if chy
Newf) poue<I
offsets
Fil/" 6cm
2 inscn c,rcl1 cuuing. lOp-d,ess
(2½in) pot wirh cncrus soil miY
with Ji11t gfil,
l<1bel, mul lwq, 111 a warm spm in JJlirlial shade.
\Vhcn nfw growth nppears (see insc,). pm on.
Succulents such as Agave, Gasteria, and
Hawonhia arc very cas)' 10 divide because
their offsets usually have developed
independent root syste1ns and so make
good g rowth once potted.
Some large-growing succulents, such
as certa in t)'pes or Agave and Aloe, may
produce large, densel)' rooted offsets
that become difficult to separate from
the parent. W ith these plants, you may
need to use a s harp knife, pruners, or
even back-to-back forks (seep. J48) 10
pry apart a clum p. Check the divisions
for any loose or thin, discolored roots -
these are often dead and should be
removed. Untangle the remaining roots
so that you can spread them out evenly
in the new plan ting holes, o r in the new
containers if repotting.
D IVISION OF MAT- FORMING SUCCULENTS
Some mat-forming or trailing members
of the crassula fami ly, for example
Adromischus, Crassula, Sedum, and
s01ne Echeveria, root along their stems
wherever they come into contact with
the soil to form a rooted mat.
Established plants ma)' be simpl)'
cu1 into smaller clum ps with a sharp
knife; the d ivisions may then be potted
or replanted. B)' con trast, many of the
carpeting mesembryanthemums rarely
produce roots from thei r stems unless
the)' are severed, so their offsets must be
treated as stem cuuings (see ,,.236).
D IVIDING STOLONIFEROUS SUCCULENTS
Some succulen ts, for example some
species of Agave, spread b)' th ick,
underground sterns, o r stolons, which
run out from the base of the parent plant
and end in a new rosette. Once the

rosenes have developed a set of leaves,
they wi ll normally have produced their
own roots fro1n the stem at the base of
1he roseue. 11 is best 10 leave very small
shoots auached to the parent because
die)' will develop much more quickly.
Remove 1he older, roseue-beari ng
underground stems from the base of
1he parent plan t with a sharp knife, then
shorten them by cu11ingjus1 beneath
the new roots of the roseue. Allow the
cut surfaces 10 dry in a warm, airy place
for a couple of days before pouing the
roseues individually.
Other succulents that spread by
stolons include members of Kleinia and
Senecio; divide these as for rosettes.
P ROPAGATING CACTI FROM OFFSETS
Most dump-forming cacti have just a
single roo1 system and produce offsets
without independent roots , with the
exception of very mature plants.
Unroo1ed offsets mar, however, be cut
off from the parent plant and 1rea1ed
as standard stem cuuings (see p.237).
Some Echinopsis, Gymnocalycium, and
Reburia are exceptions, producing offsets
with roots even when they are quite
smal l. Few clumping Mammillaria have
rooted offsets, except for the very s1nall-
Dl VlS lON OF TUBERS
111 larc spring swnmc,: dig 0111 some mawre rubers. each with a
1
IQ
gmwing 1wint,from tht· pw·eut plant
(11ere
wooclii ). AUow to dry for ct Jen days in a bright, warm,
1
headed species (see also A-Z of Cacti
and other Succulents, pp.242-51).
Epiphytic cacti cannot be divided.
Offset-fonning cacti are easy to divide
by simply breaking up the clump into
sui1abl)• sized pieces and treating them
as succulent offsets (see facing page).
Once polled , keep 1hen1 at a minimum
of about 64°F ( 18°C), and water them
sparingly until new growth is visible.
D IVIDING TUBEROUS SUCCULENTS
Some succulents increase from tubers,
which are underground storage organs.
Tubers arc sometimes produced on the
fibrous roots of 1he parent, as with some
species of Pela,gonimn. Other succu lents,
such as Ceropegia, develop tubers just
below soil level wherever the stems of
the parent plan! root into the soi l.
Most tuberous succulents have a
dormant period, usually in winter,
during which they often d ie back LO
the tuber. This is the best ti1ne to divide
them , in most cases. However, many
Pe!argonium are dormant in summer;
divide this group in late summer before
the plants come back into growth.
Species that make active growth in
summer (usually those from regions
with summer rainfall) are best divided
, -
-~
Ceropcgia lincaris subsp.
airy place.
t111<l
DIVISION
in spring. Divide deciduous Ceropegia in
spring; evergreen types a1 any time 1he
weather is warm , ideally in late spring.
Tuberous Se11ecio and Kleinia should be
divided in spring or sum mer.
Divide stem tubers, such as those of
Ceropegia, as shown below. Make sure
that each tuber has at least one shoot
or growing poin t. To divide root tubers,
simply lift the plant and pull awa)' some
hea lthy tubers. If the roo1s1ock is very
dense, cul through the roots to avoid
tearing the tubers. Pot i1nmediatcl)', as
for stem tubers (see below), but cover
the tubers ,vith a thin layer of soil ,nix .
Some o[ these tuberous plants ma)' be
d ifficult, so care is needed to reestablish
them successfully. IL is panicularl)'
imponant no1 LO overwater the soil mix,
because this ca n lead 10 rot.
DIVISION OF PLANTLETS
Some Pelargoniwn, such as certain
scented-leaf fonns including the rose-
scented geraniu1n (Pela,gonium
graveolens), produce plan1le1s along
their roo1like stems. In open beds, the
plantlets can become invasive, so they
are easy 10 propagate. Sever the stems
between the planilet and the parent, lift,
and pot singly as for tubers.
2
Fill a Ji11 (8cm)
poi will, griuy.
free-draining cacws
soil mix ro within
½'i 11 (lc,11) of iJ,e •·im .
lnscP't tctd1 rubcr so
that its roots are
buried in dit· mix
cmd rhc rnbcr sits
on the su,fare. If
planting more rhan
one tube, in a pm,
mahe sure tluu they
are not touching.
Top-dress wirh
3 a laye,. of fine
gra\•tl around the
rube, Label 1he poi .
mut water ligluly.
Place i11 a briglu, ail'y
position, 0111 of dil'eCI
su11liglu, and cH a
minimum temperature
of 61 °C ( I6°C). \Vater
sparingly. heepi11g 1lie
soil 111ix only slighlfy
moist untH the tuber
sends out new shoots
(this is usually in
2-3 weeks).
235
CACT I AND OTHE R SUCCULEN TS
TAKING CUTTINGS
01ne cacti and o ther s ucculents do
S no t flower readil)' in cultivation, and
commerc ial seeds a re often 1101 readi ly
available, so Laking cuuings offers a
reliable wa)' o f increasing many o f these
p lants. Succulent cu11ings have the
advantage that, because or their fleshy
tissue, 1hey can retain nutrients and
water while they become established.
Unusual form.s , su ch as variegated,
monstrose, or cristate (crested) p lants,
and hybrids, can usually be propaga1ed
only from cu11ings to preserve thei r
dis1inc1ivc characteristics.
T here a re various types of cuuings, the
1nos1 suitable depending on the plant's
fon11 and growth habi t. Succulents are
general ly pro pagated by s tem, leaf, or
rosette cuttings, while cac1i a re raised
from globula r, columnar, or flat s tem
cuttings. Many clu,np-forming species
produce unrooted offsets, which m ay
also be treated as cuttings.
S ELECTING SUITABLE MATERIAL
When selecti ng cuuings, you wil l
increase 1he c hances o f success if you
take care LO choose suitable m aterial
from the pare nt plant. Take cutti ngs
from tissue that is sem i- ripe o r ripe
rather than very young; cuuings that
a re very small , o r taken from im mature
tissu e, arc more prone Lo rot. On the
other hand , cuttings that arc 100 large
(with the exception of some of the
col u1nna r cacti), o r from material that is
old a nd wood y, ta ke a long Lime Lo root.
ln most cases, remove m aterial for
the c uuings using a s h arp knife. 1t is
important that knives and s urfaces are
c lean (see p. 30) 10 avoid introd ucing
disease through the cuts. With some
leaf c uttings, however, it is better to
pull off the leaf. O n ce you have taken
a cutting, allow the cul surface 10 fonn
a call us by leaving it in a wann, dry,
236
TAKING SUCCULENT STEM CUTTI NGS
InN1rly ro midsJ)ring. chaosc
] " hcC1l1hy sidcsl1Cio1 (1,erc of"
Kalanchoe) . Using (i cle,111, shmp
lmifr, mohc a srrnighr cur as dose
w ,lu_·lubc of the s1nn c1s possiMe.
airy place. This may take up Lo several
days, depending 0 11 the 1hickncss of the
c uuing and on the Lim e or year.
SUITABLE ROOTING MEDIA
A suitable rooting medium for cacti
and su cculen ts would co nsist of two
parts cactus soil mix 10 one of fine grit.
With succu lents, it is important that
the cuuings have j u st e noug h moisture
Lo encourage rooting without be ing wet,
which will quickly rot them. Using
soil m ix with a layer or fine grit o r fine
gravel on top allows any excess moisture
in the mix 10 evaporate 1hroug h the
gravel, providing enough water for
rooting while leaving the base o r the
cuuing comparatively dry. Similarly,
when polling a cuuing, inscn it into
f - - Fi11e gri1
_ _ Grrtl)' ltrClU:; soil mix
POT PREPAUEO l'OR CUl "rlNGS
Cacti mul succufc,u cuuiugs ,.oot most
successfully in a free-draining soil mix.
Use a poi 1hrec-quar1crs filled wirh 11
g,iuy C<UWS soif mix <1ncf topptcl with fine
gril. The rop-tlressi11g will pm1cc1 1he Siem
of lire c1111i11gfrom rm, while 1he base of
the cutting roots into the soil mix.
C ut \IH11xJi1
tUfOSS Sff'tll
1Hm the shool w
2 11bo111 2i11 (5011)
long. ,cn10\'it1g the
leaves Jmm the
borrom ½in (1 cm)
of s1e11, if 11ecessC1ry.
Lcm•c the tutting in er
w11n11, rl1y place for
abo111 48 hours wallow
ir w a11lus.
1'1·q ,arc " Jin (8011)
3 pol wi1h griuy soil
mix (sec below). Jnsen
the cutting into the grit
wp-cl1essi11g so ,,wt the
lea\'eS cire jusr cli~ar
of 1hc s11,fC1cc.
1op-,Jrt.ss huh
lcn•ft of fmt' gnr
the soil mix j ust deep enough for it 10
stay upright; if too deep in the mix, the
base of the culling may rot before il
has rooted.
SUCCULENT STEM CUTTINGS
Most s m all , slender-stemmed succulents
with a bus hy habit, especially those in
the crassula fa,nil)', root easily from
cuuings. They are prepared in a similar
way Lo herbaceous cuuings (see above
and p.154). L,rger cuuings a re treated
as for cactus s1cn1 c uuings (see 11.238).
Take the cuuings from stems that
have ripened and lost their bright,
juvenile color, as s hown (see above) .
Trim the c u11ings so that they are 2-Jin
(5-8cm) in length. Longer cuuings tend
10 collapse and bend during rooting
and do not make good plants. Allow the
cuuings LO call us so that they form ha rd
s kins over the wounds.
Take a pan or seed tra)' and prepare
iL as shown (see left). Gently push the
cu ttings th roug h the fine grit into the
soil mix. Keep slightly damp; many
will root in one 10 three weeks if kept
warm. Su cculen t cuttings are 1nuc h
more prone to damping off (see p. 46)
in high hum idity, so do not place them
in a closed case. lf the conditions are not
warm enough, apply gentle bottom heat
or 10°F (21•c).
SUCCULENT LEAF CUTTINGS
Some types of succu lent, for example
many species o f Crassula, Kalanchoe,
and Ecl,everia (a ll members o f the
crassu la fam ily), m ay be propagated
 TAKING CUTTINGS
- -------- - ------------ ------------------ !•
,<- ------------,
TAKING SUCCULENT LEAF CUTTINGS .
t' '..,
Swollc11 1>mc11t leaf lwl<ls
~o' wme, Jo, pfcuulc,
'i

Remove.· t1 mm11rc. healthy lccif
1 (J,c,e of Pachrphrtum ovifcrum)
by pulling i1 gcnlly sideways from the stem.
Arlow die wound ro «~Hus (sec inset) by k<l\'ing
die lccifJo,· a few cl<iys iu ci wm·m. d,y place.
Prepare a 5in (JJcm) I""' (or a seed 1my)
2 wi1h grirty soil mix mu/ fine grir (,rec facing
page). Pusl, 1hr bllsc of eacl, lellf cleep enough
inw the ,grit for d1t' leaf to stmul up. Spact the
cwlings about ½in (Jon) al'an .
I abe/ m,d place in <1 brig/11.
3 warm, air)' position. Keep
sligluly moist. After 1-6 1110,uhs,
rhr Jrm•cs shourd h<1,1f mored and
pro<lucr<I. n('W plcm1k1s (sec inset).

fro m leaf cuuings. Many of these plants SUCCULENT ROSETTE CUTTI NGS
have their axillary buds (those in the Using" dem1,
axil of the leaves) more firmly auached • , 1shar1> lmife. cul
10 the leaves than the stems. The buds ~,• • 2-Jin (5-8cm) from
are not generally visible, but by gently the wp of a young
easing a mature, healthy leaf slowly rnsc11e of leaves (here
sideways fro m the stem, it should come of Echevcria ·Frosty').
away with the ax illary bud attached. Trim off the bo11om
Take the cutlings, selecting firm, le<wes (see inset)
ncsh)' leaves, and pot them as shown and allow to callus
above. Place them in a bright position for a Jew clays.
but shielded from direct sun, and keep
them slightly damp. The minimum
temperature requirement varies according
10 the species (see A-Z of Cacti and
o ther Succulents, pp.242-51) .
The leaves should start 10 produce
roots after two to four weeks. After a
month or more, tiny new plantlets will
develop around the base, usually in
clusters. When these are large enough 10
..'
handle, split them and treat as succulent
stem cuuings (see Jaci,1g page).
Leaf cuuings wil l also often root on
dam p newspaper. Si mpl)' fold a sheet of P,m:n1
newspaper and place it in the bouom of l'O:iCll('
a seed tray. Spray wi th water and drain
off the surplus. Lay the leaves on top,
then keep in a bright, airy place; spray r
with water occasionally. When the leaves
form roots, pot them as shown above.

S UCCULENT ROSETTE CUTTINGS

Some roseue-form ing succulents, such
as Eclieveria, Hawon/iia , and 5emper-
vivum, consist of clumps of roseues.
These roseues may be severed at the
base where they join the parent plant,
and rooted as shown (see rig/ii).
Place rhe cuuings
W HEN TO TAKE CACTI STEM CUTTINGS
The best 1ilne o r year 10 take cuuings of
3 in a brig/11, ai,y
posit ion, wit It bottom
most cacti, especially in colder climales, Pr</J<lre a st/mdard .Jin (8cm) pot hem of 70"F (2l°C) if
is in late spring when the wanner, drier 2 (see facing page) or a dec1> seed possible. Oo 1101 enclose
weather arrives and the plants have rmy Gently push rhc s1c111 of 1lie cuffing d iem in a dosed case.
started 10 grow strongly. II 1hen gives through 1he fine gri t top-dressing into the because high hum idity can
them a chance to establish for as long soil mix below. so lluu the fcavcs si1 j11s1 cau~e rol. Mos, cuuings rom
as possible before the following winter. above 1l1e surface. Label rhc pol. within 1- J weeks.

237
CACT I AN D OTHE R SUCCULENTS
TAKING FLAT STEM CUTTINGS
Cut strniglu
,ioms stem
Cur a jlaue11ed, le,iflilie stem (her,• of a11
1 Epiphyllu m) into 9in (23cm) sec1ions wirh
a clean, sliarJ) lmifc. Allow diem to ttlllus for
a few days in " w(lrm, d,)' place. Fill ,, JJOt
(d1r .smallest one that a cutting wilJ stmul up
in) one-tl,inl full of cacw s soil mix.
G LOBULAR STEM CUTTINGS
Many globu lar cacti such as Echinopsis
and so me Mammilfaria produce offsets
that may be detached and treated as
cuuings 10 make extra plants, although
they usually look more auractive when
grown on as large clu,nps.
Take a culling by easing a sharp knife
between the offset and the paren t plant.
Cut through the base of the offset at its
narrowest point. Allow the cu11ings 10
callus for two days or more.
Prepare a pol or seed tray in the
usual way (see p.236). Gen tly push
each culling down into the g rit unti l it
touches the soi l ,nix . Place in an airy
spot at about 70°F (21°C), and water
sparingly. The cuuings should root in
three weeks 10 three n10111hs.
C OLUMNAR CACTI STEM CUTTINGS
Most types of col um nar cacti, and some
E11phorbic1 and Stapelia, ,nay be grown
from stem cuttings: it may be necessary
to use the main stem because many of
these plants do not branch until mature.
Cut a section from the top of a stem as
shown (see rig/11). Leave in a dry, airy
spot 10 callus. ln summer, this may take
on l)' a few days, but at other times of
the year it may take considerably longe r.
Pot the culli ng as shown, fi lling in
around it with fine gravel 10 hold it
stead y. Water sparingly 10 keep the
soil mix from d rying out completely.
This helps to red uce the risk of rot,
because the base of the cutting is not in
contact with wet soil mix. The 1nois1ure
evaporating from the mix is trapped in
the gravel, encouraging rooti ng.
Leave the pot in a bright and airy
place at a n1i nimum of 64-75°F
(IS-24°C), depend ing on the species.
The cu11ings should root in 3-12 weeks.
238
Co\'er tl1r soiJ mix with a sliallow foyer
2 of fi ne g ril, then /JUSli 1he cuuing i11ro the
mi.x below. FiH tl,c pot to j ust btlow rhc rim
with more flue gril, ro support the cutting. Make
sure that ec,d1 cutting is plauted with the end
rluu was nearest the ,,cu-c,u plmu in the pot.
TAKING COLUMNAR ST EM CUTTI NGS
Cur a sce1iou of stem from --1
1 rhe top of the 11lmu (/iert Echinopsis
pachanoi), from .Jin (8cm) w 6ft (2m) long,
depending 011 rlic size of 1he 11IC1nt. 'frim tl,e hase
and "llow IO callus (sec inset) fm· 1- 4 weel1s.
When the cuttings are showing signs
of active growth, tip the pot sideways
to remove the gravel, and replace it with
soil mix. Once the plan t has developed
a good root system, ii may be potted
into a larger container that beuer suits
its proportions.
F LAT STEM CUTTINGS
Some epiphytic ( forest) cacti, such
as Epipl,yllum and Christmas cacti
(Scl,lumbergera) , usually root easily from
sections of their fiat, leafiike stems. These
cacti generally prefer a more humid
Top half
Oj Sh'III
Bouom Jwlf
of ~rc.·111
l..nbcl cmtl ,tfcp iu c, bright s1Jot. but our
3 of dir£·ct sun, cu t, ti'mpcraturc of 6-l-75°F
(J8-24°C). Occasionlllly misr-sp,·,iy with wtucr
but do nor O\·e,--wmcr: bcamsc this may maJ:e th1·
curtings rol. Th~ sectim1s should mor in J-r2
wcdis. tlepi>nding on the pl<mr mul season.
\\i!w d1id
gfo\t"S when
Jwndling
spin) ruuitag
Gnw1·f cuo1111d
lx1sc of culling
lioltls culling
llfnul)' mad
clec,cw;fs
rrsk of rC1t
Use d11~snwlJcst pot thm ,1,e cuuit1g will
2 stand up in. fill ,1,., horrom t i11 (2.5cm)
witl1cactus soif mix. then a ½in (1cm) layer of
fine gravel. Sw11d the culling 011 11,c gr"vd. Fill
With g rm,cJ, l{lbc/, (Ula W{l(Cr ligit1/y.
environment than desert types, and they
prefer partia l shade.
ln late spring or early summer, after
nowering, remove a whole, ,nature stem
from the parent plan t at the base, and
cu t it across its wid th into sectio ns (see
Lop of page). Allow the cuttings to callus
for a few days. Prepare a pot as shown,
then carefully push each cu11i ng about
l -2in (2.5-5cm) through the g rit into
the soil mix. Up to about ten cunings,
spaced evenly apart , may be rooted in
a 5in (13cm) pot. Keep slight!)' 1nois1
in a warm , shady posi tion until rooted.

GRAFTING
T his process involves pro pagating
a plant by taking a cutting (the
scion) and uniting it with the base (the
rootstock or stock) of a more vigorous
species. While it is relatively easy 10
graft man)' cacti , most other succulen ts
are more difficult to treat in this wa)'.
The fundamental principles arc the
same, but specific techniques var)'
according to the plants used. The best
lime of year to carry out grafting is at
the stan of the growing season, from
late spring 10 midsummer.
R EASONS FOR GRAFTING
\.Vhen grafted , man)' slow-growing and
difficult species become easier to cultivate
and Oower more readily; in some cases,
growth rates increase by as much as ten
times. Plants that do not grow well on
their own roots outside their natural
habi1a1, or tha1 grow so slowly from
seeds that they are almost impossible 10
increase in this wa)', are best grafted.
Grafting is used to propagate unusual
cacti such as the cristale (crested) or
the mons1rose forms, as well as cuhivars
1ha1 have been bred without chlorophyll,
such as the neon cacti. A plant lacking
FLAT GRAFTING
ln larc sp,ing to mids1muuer, cur st raigltt
1 across the top of a vigomus swcl, pla11t
(11crc Echinopsis scopulicolus) usi11g a elem,,
tlii11-bladed lmife. Let1ve a 1-2in (2.5-5c111)
wll roo1stocl1 i11 the pot.
chlorophyll ca nno t manufacture any
food for itself, so ii is grafted onto a
green stock, which supplies nu1rien1s
for both 1he stock and scion.
How GRAFTING WORKS
The stems of many cacti and other
succulents possess two principa l l)'pes
of tissue, the xylem and 1he phloem,
separated by a concentric ring between
them (see box, p.240). This ring is 1he
cambium , which in old stems may be
woody. Inside the ring is the xylem,
which conducts nutrients and water
through the plant from the roots. On
the ou ts ide is the phloem , which sto res
sugars and water and deals with waste
products. Xylem, cambium , and phloem
together form the vascular bundle. For
a graft 10 unite successfully, the xylems,
cambiums, and phloems of both stock
and scion must be in contact.
S UITABLE ROOTSTOCK$
Most grafts must use a rootstock and
scion from within the same plant family.
To increase the chances of success, both
stock and scion should be healthy and
growing well. \.Vith a liule practice, you
Do ,wt cut ituo
wisrnlar btmdle - - r-
Using the l111ifc. chamfer the edges of ti«
2 swell. This is done by tlimming off each
of the corners, malling a dit1go11al cur upward
nboul ¼in (5 mm) below 1he cw surface. Do not
rot1ch the wowul with ytno- hands.
Pfoct , ubbet
bands ai
riglu m1glrs
10 ccuh 01ho·
!'lace the scion
4 011 the stocll
and gently "screw"
die rwo swfaces
togctl,r,: rhis
ensures that any air
bubbles are elimi11ated
and the exposed tissues
are in close conraci .
Secure in pfoce will,
two rubber bands. Label.
GRAFTING
may expect a success rate of over 90 per-
cent. However, many growers resort to
this method on ly to try lo propagate a
plant that is already ailing, in which case
a success rate of 30 percent or less is
more likely. Generally, a fast- and easy-
growing plant is used for the stock.
For cacti , a three-sided 1-lylocereus
species is often used conunercially as a
s1ock. In warm areas, it is ideal for rapid
growth, but it needs a winter minimum
of 59°F (15°C), higher than many people
keep their collections in colder climates.
The taller Echinopsis species (formerly
Ti·ic/1ocert:us), such as Echinopsis pachanoi ,
E. scopulicolus, and E. spaclriarra , are
robust and easy 10 grow, and so make
much belier stocks for cold climates.
F LAT GRAFTING
This is by far the most common type of
graft , because it is easy and quick LO use
and generally gives excellent results. For
grafting, you need a sharp knife with a
blade that is rigid enough 1101 to bend
but thin to make the cut as cleanly as
possible and avoid crush ing the cells
on either side of 1he cul. There are many
cheap, disposable (continued 011 p.240)
Taite a srtm cutting from l11e scion plant
3 (litre Rcbutia canigueralii f. rauschii) tltar
is 1/.-Jht (J-2.5cm) in diameter- mul 110 taller
than ir is broad. If die sldn is ,,ery tougl1,
cliamfer 11,e edges a litrle.
'
'
,.,-,.- Craftetl J>lanr ,ifter
~ 12 montl1s
Leave the pot
5 itr a b,iglu.
ai,) pl,~ce ow
1
of clirec1 s1111light.
Keep the soil mix
sligluly moist.
Remove rht rubber
bands when there are
signs of active new
growd1, usually after
,d,out rwo weehs.
239
CACTI AND OTHER SUCCU LE NTS

GRAFTING CUTS
Xylem
Cambi1m1
A straiglu cut made across the stem will
exp-0se s11.fficie111 mnowus of tlte different
types of tissue in a l11ich·Stemmed cactus for
flat graf1i11g (see above, right). Using a11
a11glcd cul (above, left) <X/IOSes II l<1rgcr area
of tissues, which increases the chances of a
successful m1ion when side grafting species
witli slender stems.
(co111i1111edfrom p.239) crar1 knives or
scalpels available that are all excellent
for use in grafting. Make sure that you
have everything on hand before you
start, and work qu ick ly 10 complete the
operation with as liule conta1nination
as possible. Sterilize the knife blade by
standing it in alcohol or denatured
alcohol (see also p.30).
Cut down the cactus that you have
selected for the rootstock (see p.239 and
box, below), and prepare it as shown
(see page 239). Bear in mind that short
stocks usually look much beuer than
tall ones. When you have made the
cut, 1nake sure that the vascular bundle ,
xylem, and phloem are al l exposed .
Some cacti have sunken growing points,
and culling the stock 100 near the tip of
the stem may leave the growing point
intact - with disastrous rcsulLS. The tip
of the stock will con tinue 10 grow
through the scion and will overwhelm
it. If the stock has a hard skin , chamfer
the edges a lin le so that when the tissue
shrinks it will not become concave and
pull away rrom the scion.
Now quickly prepare the scion (the
plant )'OU wan t 10 propagate). Cu t the
base clean ly and, if it has a very tough
skin , chamfer the edges as for the stock.
Position the scion on top of the stock;
make su re that at least pan of the xylem
and phloe,n or the scion matches up
wi th those of the stock. Once you have
joined the scion and stock, lightly rotate
("screw'') the scion 10 expel any excess
sap or air bubbles, then secure in place.
There are various ways of holding the
two cut surfaces together with a liule
pressure until they have united. Broad
rubber bands arc ideal for small grafted
plants in pots , but check that they are
not so tight that they cut into the scion.
Larger cactus grafLS or those g rowing
in open ground may be held together
using an old piece or nylon stocking,
stretched into a rope. Hook one end
over the spines on one side of the stock,
take it over the scion, then pull it tight
and hook the o ther end to spines on
the other s ide of the stock. Ahernativcly,
apply the required pressure by using two
lengths of string, weighted at the ends,
draped over the scion at right angles.
Place the newly grafted plant in a
bright, airy position at 66°F (19°C) ,
shielded from full sun. The graft should
unite in two 10 three weeks. Water the
plant according 10 the stock plant's
requirements, but tr)' 10 keep water
away from the cut surfaces. Signs of
active new growth will soon be apparent
if the graft is successful, after which )'OU
can remove the ties. Grow the plant for
about a month in light shade, then treat
as nonnal.
S1oe GRAFTING
This technique is used for grafting
slender-stemmed species, such as
Ecl1i1101,sis clwmaecereus, or those with
a narrow central core, which makes it
difflcuh or impossible 10 carry out a
conventional flat graft. Cuuing a
slender-stemmed scion at a shallow
angle so that the cut surface is a long
oval (sec box. Jar lcf1) provides a larger
SIDE GRJ-\ fTING
Malle <m obli<tue cut nu rhc swclt cmd
scion mid ,,rcss 11,e cut su,f<iccs togcthc,:
Secure with <J cllctus S/Jinc or dean
ncccllc <md bind with rnfJia ,,,, rnlJber
b1111cls. S11p1,or1 1hr grnf1ed pl11111 wilh
a thin stalle and rwine.
Trcm 11sfo1· <1fl<11 ·
graf,cc/ "'"'"·
Rubbei
"'"'" - "A

POPULAR ROOTSTOCK$ FOR GRAFTING CACTI

ln theory, any cactus may be grafted onto
any other 1ypc of cacllls. but 1hc following
arc 1hc more popular rootstocks.
C EREUS (any species) Shon-lived as stock,
tending to last onl)' 3- 5 years.
Ct1,ISTOCACTUS WIN1tRI Quite good for small-
growing plants, but may offset freely.
Ec 111N0 Ps1s (most species) Ideal
as stock in colder clinrn1cs. Tall-
growing species ( S)1n.
Trirhocereus) are easier 10 use
than g)obular ones. E. paclianoi
and E. scoIJulicolus bo1h gi\le
s1urcl)' and robust growth. S1ock
is slow lO offset and tolerates
temperatures as low as 45°F
(7°C). E. spacltia1111s is also
popular, bu1 offsets frcclr
frJPHlU .VM m'l\RIDS New growth
(cylinclrical or fou r-angled) is
userul for small seedling scions.
s,ock has limited uscrul lire.
IIARR/S/A (any species) Slender
s1ock, useful for small scio ns.
HnOCEREUS (any species) Popular whh
commercial growers grafting in high
1cmpera1ures. bu, 1101 good for cold clirna1cs.
Ml'RlR J..OCACTUS GEOM£ TRJZANS Popular whh
some commercial growers. Stock needs al
least 50°F ( I 0°C) in wi1ucr. hs \'igor wanes
ahcr 3-1 years.
/IF.Rf'5KIOP515 (any species) Very slender,
cylindrical stems make excellent stocks for
grafting young seedlings, bu1 after one year
or e\len less scion will need to be rcgrar1cd
ont0 stock with larger diameter.
S ELENl(ERl·l'S(any species) Very
s lender. cylindrical stems make
panicularly good stocks for grar1ing
, . epiphy1ic or fores, cac1i . Long
lengths may be used 10 make ,all
standards. Minimum temperawrc
or 43°F (6°C) required.
ECHINOPSlS CtiAMAECEREUS
F. LUTEA

240
 GRAFT ING

APICAL-WEDGE
GRAFTING BINDING A GRAFT
WI TH RAFF IA

Usf 5Jwrp Cut 1, nuuk crcn.>.ss

knife 10, u1 tt,"'-"~ - <rnrN ,,j i.fnn
off Siem

Cut n shoot
'.?.L\ .._
1 2-3i11 tWa...._ ."
(5-8cm) long Cnt t/ie top I-Jin (2.S-8cm)
from tJ1c scion l)lanr
(J1cre a Cl1risrnws
2 from a stem 011 the ~rork plant
(l,c,~ 11 Selcniccrcus). Mnl,e n fine,
cactus) hy cutting it venia,I cul ¼in (2tm) deep intu
straigl11 d1rough cu ti joint. the vascul<u- bundle.

You may prefer to use raffia

Use n tl1i11-bf"'led Jmife to /Jllrc
3 sfiwrs of shi11 from both sides
of the base of rhc scion w fonn a
wpered end. 1\ifollc sure that the
central core is exposed.
Insert 1J1r scion inro tJ1r slit at
4 the '°I' of rhc swck so that tlie
exposed tissues of bmh an~in dost·
conracc Push a long cactus spine
thrnugl1 tJ1e gmfted mec1.
Put a wcal~ened dothcs pin
5 ncmss the join ro hofd rhe graft
firmly in 11lace. Label and ft~c1vr i11
1>wtial shack. Rcmo"c the pin mul
.spine "nee du· graft has uniud.
IO bin,/ tJ,c grt,ft i11sread of the
cactus spine and clotlies pin
shown in step 5. Do nm tie rhc
raffia 10<> riglirly, 01· ir nwy crush
tl,e tissue of stock and scion.

area or xylem and phloem to unile with
1hose on the stock. The scion may then
be secured in place as on a Oat grart,
with gen tle pressure applied by using
rubber bands; the resulting grafted plant
is very one-sided, however, a nd so is not
particularly pleasing.
The bcucr op1ion is to use a more
slender stock, such as of Pereslliopsis or
Selc11icereus, and cut both the s tock and
scion d iagonally. As when Oat grarting,
check that pans of the X)•lem and
phloem correspond , and "screw" Lhe
scion gently onto the stock to expel any
air bubbles. It may not be practical to
secure the graft w ith rubber bands, so
h old the scion in place on the stock with
a cactus spine (as shown, left) o r a clean
needle, then bind then1 together with
raffia or a rubber band or clamp them
using an old clothes p in that has a
weakened s pring.
Side grafting is an ideal m ethod for
producing a tall standard p lan t with a
treelike stein , such as for the rat's Lail
cactu s (R/1ipsalis), allowing room for the
long s tems 10 trai l (see p.250). Root a
plant of Selenicereus up to 4ft ( 1.2m) in
length; on ce it is growing actively, it is
ready to use as a stock. Secure the stock
to a s turdy stake to keep it straigh t and
help suppon the weight or the g raft,
then s ide graft a Rhipsctlis scion on to il.
APICAL-WEDGE GRAFTING
This technique, which is a lso sometimes
kno,vn as spl it grafting, may be used
instead or a Oa1 graft, but it is d iffic ult
10 cut the stock a nd scion at exactly
the same angles so that they match up
well. h is therefore usually reserved ror
those cases where a Oat graft would be
unsatisfactory and is especially suitable
for cacti with Oat, leaOike s tems and
other e piphytes, as well as some slender-
s tem med s uccule nts. Like s ide grafting,
this method is also often used to create
a standard, using sc ions such as the
C hris tmas cactus (Sd1lumbergera).
For the roots tock, u se a slender plant
such as Pereshiopsis o r Selenicereus
g rown to the required length. Tic in to a
sturdy stake for support. Take a cuuing
one o r two stein segments long from the
scion plant. Two scions may be grartcd
back 10 back 01110 the same s tock; this
produces a plant with a well-balanced
head more quickly than a single scion.
Prepare the stock and scion(s) as
shown above. When inserting the scion
into the Lo p of the s tock , take care to
match 1he cut surfaces as close!)' as
possible. Secure the scio n in place and
apply light p ressure by clainping the
graft with a weakened clothes pin or by
binding it with raffia. Place the grafted
p lan t in an airy position , ou t or rull sun,
a l 66°F ( l 9°C) . vVatcr as normal for the
stock plant. The two plants should uni1e
wi1hin a few days.
GRAFTING OTHER SUCCULENTS
Although exactly the same methods
arc used, grafting succu lents is generally
far more complex than grafting cacti.
Both scion and stock should be from
the same p lant family, but because or the
huge diversity or most of these families,
som e stocks m ay be compatible w ith
the scion , wh ile others a re n ot. As
wi th cacti, use a stock rrom a p lant
that is easy-growing and vigorous. The
following scions and stocks generally
may be grafted successfu lly.
ADF.NIA The m ore difficu lt and rarer
species are g rafted o nto Adenia glauca.
ADENIUM New color hybrids are grafted
on10 Ade11 iu111 obesum, and rarer species
onto o leanders (Neri11111).
CERARU These may be grafted 01110
Porwlacaria afra.
C cROPfGIA , STAPELIA Scions or these are
grafted onto Ceropegia linea,is subsp.
woodii and Stapelia grandi.flora.
EUl'HORBIA, MONADENIUM These are
usually grafted on to one or the cactus-
like species such as Euphorbia i11ge11s
and E. ca11arie11sis.
PACIIYPODtUM Madagascan species may
be grafted onto Pachypodium lamerei.

241
A-Z CACT I AND OTHER SUCCULENTS

A- Z OF CACTI AND OTHER SUCCULENTS

AEON IUM
SEEDS it'I (':trly :,pr111g or in :llllumn
CUTTINGS m ,prmg or 111 .,uiumn ,1
Many or the plants in this genus (5)'11.
Megalonium) tolerate dry cold to a
minimum or 50°F ( 10°C) but rot in
damp cond itions. Mature roseues,
and in some cases the entire plant,
may die after flowering. Species that are
predominantly sol itary, such as Aeonium
tabuliforme (syn. A. berwletimwm,
Sempervivum complc111a1um) and
A. spectabile, can usually be raised only
from seeds. Cuuings may be taken from
any plant once it is large enough.
SEEDS
Aeonium seeds are minute and dustlike:
even a small pinch will produce hundreds
of seedlings if the seeds arc fresh and
viable. Viabi lity or stored seeds rapidly
declines to onl)• one or two percent. The
tiny seed pods arc papery when ripe in
summer. To sow the seeds, mix with a
liule fine sand and sow (see /J.2.32) to
germ inate at 66-75°F ( 19-2-1°C).
1 CUTTINGS
Take cuuings while the plant is in active
growth. Some of the taller species with
sturdy stems, such as A. arborew11 (syn .
Scmpcrvivum cuborcum), lend themselves
to propagation from large stem cuuings
(see righr and p.236). Cut each stem
3-12in (8-30cm) below the leading
roseue; the more rigid the stem. the
longer the c uuing may be.
Once the cuuings have callused,
set them individuall)', 2-3in (5- Scm)
deep, in fair!)' small pots o r grill)' cactus
soi l mix. Keep j ust moist. Cuttings
taken in spring or earl)' autumn root
rapid!)' in 1-2 weeks and make good-
sized plants in 1-2 months. C')e ~"k"'hoo1,
os cxi,a cu11it1g,
Treat cuuings that have slender stems,
such as A. sedifoliwn (syn. Aicl11yso11
sedifolium, Sempervivum masferreri) and AEONIUM STEM CUTTINGS
A. haworrhii (S)'n. Scmpen•ivum hmvorthii), Tt,JH· c, cutting (hen_
· of Aconium arborcum).
as roseue cuuings (see p.237). Although st·,,r,ing the su·m ar kthr Jin (8011) bdow the
il is a 1nember of the crassula famil)', lcatli11g ro,crrc. Alloi, io callus for 1-3 tlays. Poe
this succulent d ocs not root from in <Cfflus 1x,u111g mix. Cut off cmy sideshoots. at
single leaves. dtt• main :itC'm, anti fH'tll in rhr smm.~war.

AGAVE
S eeos from spring 10 summer:
OlVISION rrom spring to ,uinnw, , ( clumJh)
U (single ro,cue~)
The hardier members in this genus tend
to have bluish leaves: more tropical,
light green-leaved or variegated cuhivars
arc slightly less hardy. The)' tolerate
a minimum or 4 l-50°F (5-10°C),
depending on the species. Some are
monocarpic, dying once the)' have
nowered; with other species, each
roseue dies after flowering. Agaves are
easy to raise fro m seeds, if available.
Most species offset readil)', lending
the,nselves to division.
SEEDS
In cultivati on, 1he)' set seeds rather
erraticall )'; hand-pollination ma)' help
(see p.2JJ). If ferti lized, the)' produce
seed capsules that swell as they ripen.
When sowing the large, nat seeds (sec
p.2.32) at 70°F (21 °C), cover them with
a ¼in (5mm) layer of fine grit to keep
them in contac t with the soil. h takes
2-3 years to raise a small plant.
DIVISION
Agave increase b)' underground stems,
or sto lons, from which new roseues, o r
offsets, arc produced. \.Vail until each
offset has a complete roselle of leaves;
b)• then, it should have its own root
system. These plants have vicious spines
and daggerlike teeth, so it is advisable lo
wear protective gloves and sleeves when
handling them . Divide )'Oung plants as
shown below for good plants in 2-5
years. Keep each division just moist until
well established, usually in 1-3 ,nonths.
Mature plants or species that freely
offse t, for example A. americana (syn.
A. a lrissima) and its cuhivars, soon make
la rge, tig htly packed clumps. These may
be divided with a knife into smalle r
sections or individual offsets (see p.234).

DIVIDING AGAVE OFFSETS

Seirer"
2 l1cahl1y offsc1
1md scparacc ii
fwm du• pa11·m,
cutting th1ough
thr COlllll'Cf111g
s1olo11 wult
c1 clean. shal'p
lmifr just bdow
1111· ,,Jfsc1s roots.
Replmu 1h1·
patt'nl. Plan· the
offsi•t in n wnnn.
b, ig/11. airy spec 1'01 rhc offse, in griuy

1
Life or l111ocl1 0111 rhc parcll! pla111 (l,erc
Agave mncricana '¼1rkgaw') and lay 0,1
for a few tiny;
until rht: wou11tl
3 cactus soil mix. Top·
tlrl.'SS with a slwllow layer
u~ side sc, you ccm n~ach below rhe spiny leaves. u,lluses over. of ,11,all gravel. Do 1,01
Remove die loose soil tmd oltl or <lt:ad roots. wmcr for die first wei•k

242
 AEONIUM - CERARIA

A STROPHYTUM C EPHALOCEREUS
Seeos in spnng or summer U SEEOS m spring U
GRAFTING ill l.uc s1>ring (0
because they contain air pockets. Before CunmGS from spring to summer U
hue :.um mer U sowing (see p.232), liberally sprinkle
the surface of the soil mix with ground These cacti, hardy lo 50°F (10°C), are
The en tire genus may lime; this greatly increases the survival fairly rare in cultivation apart from the
be relatively difficu lt to and growth rate of seedlings. o ld man cactus (CqJhalocereus se11ilis).
propagate because they The sand dollar cactus, Astropl1yt11m Plants ma)' take ten years or more lO
are slow-growing and asterias (syn. Echi11occ1ct11s aste1i<1s) , is reach 12in (30cm) in height and 50
Astmplrytum have poor rool sysLctns. prone to rot if too wet and to shrivel if years to reach Sfl (1.5 m). Because of
myrio,11gm11 Adding calcium (for 100 dry; it grows beuer if grafted as a their slow growth and usually solitary
exa1nple in the form of li1ne) to the soi l seedl ing. The slender, young stems of stems, they are normally raised from
or soil mix aids growth of new rooLS. Peresltiopsis make ideal rootstocks. seeds. Taking a culling is worth doing
These cacti tolerate a minimum of ,Vhen grafting, as shown below, it is on l)' to save a plant that has roued at
so•F ( 10°c). essential 10 work quickly and unite each the base. Most benefit from additional
Seeds germinate easil)', often in 4-5 scion and stock before the sap dries up. lime in the soil or soil mix.
da)'S, if fresh and sown al 70°F (21°C). This happens arter 15-30 seconds. The
They are helmet-shaped and produced stocks may produce suckers later on; SEEDS
in red or green rruits. Unusually, viable remove these as soori as the)' appear. Use a ver)' free-draining soil mix of two
seeds do not sink when placed in water Plants reach a good size in 2-4 years. pans cactus mix and one of fine grit,
because these cacti are very susceptible
GRAFTING ASTRO PHYTU M SEEDLINGS lo ovenvatering. Sow the seeds (see
p.232) at 66-75°F O9-24°C).
For a secdliug
1grnft, " suitable CUTTINGS
rooiswcll. such as If taking a columnar stem cutting, cut
Scion, " 4-6i11 (I 0-l .5c111) the stern above the site of the rot and
tall Peresk1opsis inspect the cut surface. If there is an)'
spathularn, and discoloration , trim the cuuing until
Astrophytum the tissue is clean. Allow the wound
sectlli11gs (here of to callus for 2-3 weeks until it is firm
A. aslerias) ,m· and dry. Pot into fine gravel and waler
required. Prepan..· sparingly on l)' in warm weather until
1lte motstoch by louneclimdy "Ju:, the ,·oc.ltswcl: active growth is visible; this may take
cutting it bacl, lo
(d)Olft J-2iu
2a
tis
is prq}{m-:tl, lift a seedling to use
scion. Use" sterili~Nl sa1lpd or
up lo two years.

(2.5-5cm) cmd "slwrp, tlti11-bl,ulc,l l111ifc 10 cw off 0LO ~IAN

trimming off ,he mols <ll tJ1c lu1sc. \Vol'I, trs C,\CTUS
die sirleshoots. 1111ic/1ly as possible. Tht· spines
011 this s1,ccies.
C. scnilis,
Gently press 1l1e Place 1l1e become lon~t'r
3 p1cpnrcclofscion
onto the l<>p rhc
--......-- 4 gnifted 11l<111t
in a J1umid cluu11be,:
lU!d thidwr liS
it matures (sec
s,ocll. to one side so here a bo11k cfod,c left) . II wiff 11C!l
11,m <1s 11111clt of the over a stm<er wi1h n flower or fruit
wmcr-swring tissue liulc wcHe,: Keep a, umil i1 is twc,uy
and cemml trm,spon ti mininnm1 of 70°F yellrs old or
rissuc cue <1lig11cd (21°C) ill bright, more!, so it is
liS JJ()SSibfc. RotalC iutlirect ligl,t. The gcncrnlly grown
tl1e scion gnuly to gmfl should show Jmn1JJurchnsecl
1.:-mo,·e auy lrtrpped air sig11s of acti\'e seeds.
bubbles; tltc Slip shoulcl growt h i11 2-3
hold it in place. wc:chs (sec insc1 ).

O THER CACTI AND SUCCULENTS

AocNIA Sow seeds (see p.232) in
spring ar 66-75°F ( 19-24°C) ,.
Take stem cuttings (p.236) in
summer Ul, Apkal-wcdgc grart
(p.241) rare or difficult cultivars
onto A, glauca stocks u.
ADCNIUM OOCSUM (syn.
A. arnbicum, A. micra111h11m.
A . spcciosum) Seeds (see p.232)
al 61°F (16°C) in s pring U. Fla t
or side graft (J)/>.239-4 l) rare or
colored cuhivars on species Ul,
ADROMISCIIUS As for Crassultt
(p.245) ,.
AICIIRYWN Sow seeds (see ,,.232)
in spring at 66-75°F ( l 9-24°C)
,. Take roseue cu11 ings (p.237)
in spring or early sum rncr ! ,
ALOE Sow seeds (sec p.232) al
70°F (2 1°C) in spring 10 autumn
,. Divide offscrs (p.234) jusr
before season o f growth in
spring or auwm n ,. Take
c u uings as for Gasu,i" (p.2-17) j.
A POROCACTlJS Sow seeds (see
/l,232) ar 70-F (2l°C) from
spring lo summer!, Cuuings
as for Epiphyl/11111 (Ji.246) j.
ARG'l'RODl:;R\IA As for Haworrhrn
(sec p.24 7) j.
ARIOCARPUS Sow seeds (see
p.232) from spring 10 summer a t
75°F (24°C) ii!- Grart seedlings
as ror Aslro/Jhy111111 (abol'e) 1,
BRO\\NINCJA (syn. Az:urcoccreus)
As ror Cereus (see p.244) ,.
CA1YMM,.\ ~1·rnu:-.1 As for Cereus
(see p.244) ,.
CAR'l[GI EA CIGANTCA Seeds al
70°F (2l°C) in spring (/J.232) 1-
CEPIIALOPHYLLUM As for
Co11111ihyt11111 (see p.24.5) 1-
CtR,\RIA Seed and stem cu11ings
as for Cotyfed()n (p.245) U.

243
A-Z OF CACT I AND OTHER SUCCULENTS
C EREUS
Seeos 111 !>pnng or 111 !tUmmcr i
CUTTINGS m spring or in summer U
These mosLI)' Lall, columna r cact i are
easy 10 raise fro m seeds. They grow up
10 4fl ( 1.2m) a year a nd branc h free!)',
so a si ngle c ulli ng wi ll g ive a deccn1
plan1 almos1 ins1antly. Cereus Lo lera1e
short periods of 25°F (-4°C).
SEED S
The flowers open al nigh1 an d a re
pollinated b)' mo1hs. Hand-po llina1e
plan1s grown u nder cover (see p.233).
Allow 1he plumlike fruits Lo ripen a nd
sofie n before ex tracting the da rk seeds.
Sow (see p.232) at 66-75°F ( l 9- 24°C)
for good-sized plan lS in ten years.
C UTTINGS
Because 1he columna r ste ms a re rigid ,
ii is possible 10 take cuttings up 10 6 f1
(2m) lo ng. The mo ns1rose form or
Cereus /1i!,lma1111ia1111s (ofie n mis1akcnly
called C. peruvia nus) is best increased by
c uuings (see right mul p. 238), al1ho ugh
it re produces fairly read il)' fro m seeds.
The la rger the wound o n 1he c uuing, 1he
longer iL 1akes 10 callus. Af1er polling,
keep the soil mix slight!)' moist in warm
weather. Cuuin gs roo1 in l - 12 1non1hs.
C EROPEGIA
S eeos in spring!
OfVISION from spnng 10 ~umnH:r I (stem tubtn.)
IU (root 1ubcr,,)
CumNGS from -,prmg lo ~ummcr U (sucklikc
-.prcit·s) , (chmbm,g or tr..1iling species)
The ma ny succulents in 1his genus
grow best wi1h a minimum o r 39-64°F
(4-18°C). vVhen sowing seeds (see
p.232), cover !hem with fine g ril 10
ensure mo isl cond i1ions for gen n ina1io n.
Mos1 germina1e rapidly al 75-81°F
(24-27°C). Fresh seeds o fie n germina1e
in less than a week.
Most 1uberous species produce offse1
1ubers al the roolS of 1he pare nl tube r.
Li fi 1he planl, remove the o ffse1 tubers,
a nd pol, for new plants in 2-3 mon ths.
Detach 1ubers 1ha1 form along 1he stems
withou1 Iifling 1he paren1 (see p.235).
To propagate sticklike species such as
Ceropegia dichotoma, la ke 4-6 in
(10-1 5cm) cu nings wil h a1 least three
O THER CACTI AND SUCCULENTS
Crn,1RtOOl'S1> As Haworthia (sec
p.24 i) ,.
COPIAPOA Sow seeds (sre p.232)
m 66-7S°F 09-2-1°C) from
spring 10 summer; slow 11. Take
stem cuuings as for MammiJlaria
(p.248) 11,
244
TAKING A CEREUS STEM CUTTI NG
Paler green lif> b
rnnenl SCllSOUS groMh
Piner rhe cutting on a wire ,ray or on
2 s1y ,·ojomn blodzs w f)rtvc,u llu: spint·s from
being dcmwgcd. Lccwc ii in a warm, dry pince
wallow the cw surface to coitus. This will talte
Cit least 2-3 wechs in summt•r wul c~ liulc lo11~tr
at other limes of the year.
Choose a poc cl1Cct is
3 slighcly la,ge,· clum
the bas,• of c/,c c11tti11g.
Fill the l>ouom d1ircl will1
cactus soil mix, then acid
a I i11 (2 ..5cm) layer of
fine grtwcl. Stand the
curring 0 11 1hr gl'C1vd
and fill armmcl it with
\Vear thich glo"cs m11I "'''"I' a folded cloth more grovel to the top.
] cu-ound rJ,e cl1m~n1 srcm 01c,e" mousuosc If 11ccessmy, ~upport it
fonn c,j Ccrcus hilchmmn ianus) lO steady ii. with one or mmr stt,rcly
Use a lwgc lmif,· w ffmo,•e a 3in-3ft (8cm- lm) sral,es. Lid>cl and l:eep clie
lcng1h. nwing strC1iglu across the srcm. soil mix slightly moist.
STEM CUTTINGS OF
Ctropegia
T RAILING CE RO PEG IA succulcnta - ~ , ,
Once the new
\Vire
sw,,lc 3 slioo1s ore
4-6in (10-15cm)
wll, cur the s1em
into secrio11s. each
wi1h its own sJioot
and roots. ·frim
off the old stem.
Poi each ,voted
cutting into a
Tf11 CC·</<Wl'ICl"S fill ll .5in Cover with ¼in (l cm) of small pot of cactus
1(I 3cm) ptm with cactus 2 soil mix. Firm mut watc,: soil mix.
cuttings soil mix. Loosely coil Place i11 n bright, w,1rm, cl')
<1 JO-J2fn (25-30cm) length spot; J~cep just moist mu ii new
of stem; 11t:g ii mt the su,fc,ce. slwms ap11ecu- in J- 2 11w,uhs.
nodes, severed j usl below a leaf nod e or coil longer c uuings, as shown a bove,
scar. Po i as sie m c uuings (see p.236) 10 and roo1 a1 61°F (16°C). Coi l cuuings
root in 1-2 mo n1hs, bu1 do no1 lei the of 1he heart or rosary v ine (C. line<cris
bases 1o uch 1he so il mix. subsp. woodii), each wi1h 1- 2 tubers.
Take sie m c uuings also fro m slcnder- Larger tubers make good roolSLOcks
s1emmed , climbing, and !railing species, for fla1 grafiing 1he 1nilkweed family
CORRrOtACTus (S)'"· E1disi11) (see f<1ci11g ptcge) , . Divide o ffsets as for Mammillaria
Seeds and cuuings as for Cereus DIOSCOREA (syn. Testudi11wia) (p.248) ,.
(see above) i . Sow seeds (see p.232) in au1umn 01soe,,CTus As for Epiphyllum
Crr11osTCMMA Sow seeds (sec al 66-7S°F ( 19- 24°() !- (sec /J.246) 1-
p.232) al 64-70°F ( 18-21°() Cu11 ings are very difficul1. DRos.l ~"11 ttMUM As for
from spring lO earl)' summer!, DISCOCACTUS Sow seeds as for Co11opl1ytum (see f«cing page) !-
DELOSPERMA As for (tmophytum Gy11mocalyci11111 (see p.247) II, Duo, ~YA As Aeonium (p.242) 1-
 CEREUS - D UDLEYA

CLEISTOCACTUS FLAT GRAFTING A CRISTATE FORM

Seeos from spring to summer ii
CUTTINGS from 1:uc ~pring to M.Ult11lCr
GRAFTING from spnng to summer 1
Seeds are produced in green, yellow,
or red berries. Sow them (see p.232)
to germinate at 70°F (21 °C).
The rigid stems of upright species
such as the silver torch (Cleistocac111s
s1ra11sii) furnish columnar stem cu1tings
up lo 6ft (2111) long (see /J.238). Cuttings
from clumping species such as C. winleri
with slender, arching stems arc easier
10 manage if only up 10 2ft (60cm) long.
Support cunings with stakes 10 prevent
them from bending wh ile they root,
usually 1-4 months. h takes 2-3 years
10 produce a good-sized plant.
Crested, or cristale, Cleistocac111s
forms may be na1 grafted 10 preserve
1heir characteristics (see ligh1 crnd
p.239). Cleistocactus tolerate a
minimum of 50°F ( 10°C).
Oi:;cC11d :iitln Pupmnl
\Vhcn Jim grafting a criswtc
i, 1 Clcistoca<:tus. Uthe fw1 -
a
of trc:;r ' -- SciOtl
sht1/)ed section of 1hecrest (here of
C. wi1ueri) rn p,·epm·c ,1s c1 scion.
Cut off the sides of the cri·s1 and
d1en rhc base to cre(lte" iouglily
,·ccumgulor scion llbolll Y- l¼in
(2-4cm ) wide. If the sides arc 1101
wllc11 off. they will grow i1110 the
soil cmd ro1.
P,q,<u-t ,1 suiurMc After one year o,
2 mmslock (here a 3 so. tl,c ~wft«I 1,lm11
I Z:i11 (4cm) Echinops is slioutd have developed rhc
scopulicolus). Unite llw co11l'ol11rcd form of its
scion mul s1och, tailing l'"rent. E\'cntucdfy the
care w align rite ca,nl,ium cres1 wiff grow down w
Joye,·s. Scturc wirh ll,e basC' of il1r scion cmd
rubber bands until signs die co11 ugcu ions will spill
of m:w growil, ap1,em: over <11ul conccc,I thr
Grow 011 iu n bright place motstoch be11ca1l1.
/II 6J°F (16°C).

CON OPHYTUM C OTYLEDON

Seeos in aulunrn ,
C UTTINGS io :-.pring or in lalc
summcl' t<> t~arly au1 umn **
These succulents prefer
temperatures above
50°F (10°C). Gather the
minute seeds in autumn
Co1101,t1y1um and surface-sow (see
bilob1rn1 p.232) at 70°F (21°C) in
humid shade at once 10 allow seedl ings
the maximum time for growth before
su,nmer dormanc)',
The best thne 10 take stem cu uings
(see p.236) is in late summer or ea rly
autumn when the plants fi rst show signs
of com ing out of dormancy. Scparaie
the heads and cut each at the base. Keep
moist at 66°F (19°C) to root in 2-4
weeks. If a plant has not come out of
donnancy b)' late autum n, the stems
are probably dead; treat the heads as
culli ngs and keep dry in cool weather.
The)' root rapid!)' when warm and moist
in spring and nower in 3-5 years.
CORYPHANTHA
Seeos in ~prin,g or in early ~t,mmcr,
DIVISION from l:uc spring 10 earl)• summer l Crush the minute, dry seedpods 10
Most of these cacti are so litary or offset
slowl)' so are best raised from seeds (see
p.232). Gather large, brown seeds from
the green seedpods and sow al 66-75°F
(l 9-24°C). A good-sized plant will
develop in about five years.
A few species, such as Co,yphantha
eleplia111ide11s, produce mu l1iheaded
clumps with numerous offsets. Rooted
offsets ma)' be divided (see p.235) and
replaiucd or poued singly or in clum ps.
Seeos in e:1rly .:.pring,
C uTI1NGS from spring 10 summer!
Most species in this genus may be
raised from the dustlike seeds (see
p.232), sown a1 66-75°F (19-24°C).
Take stem cu l!ings (see p.234) from
bushy forms such as the panda plant
(Cotyledo,i rome11tosa). Sem i-ripe, 2-3in
(5-8cm) long stems give best results;
CRASSULA
Seeos from :-.pl'ing rn ~uom1er,
D IVISION from :-.pring 10 ~umnu,:r l
S TEM Cl.mmos from ~pring lo summer~
LEAF CUTTINGS from spring to summer 11
This diverse genus con tains a wide
range of succulents that grow best
at a minimu,n of 41-50°F (5-10°C).
Raising most of them from seeds is very
unpred ictable. Taking stem cuuings is
probably the easiest 1neans of increase;
leaf cullings arc fairly easy, but slow.
Some low, clum ping species such as
Crassula schmidlii may be divided.
SEEDS
gather the dustlike seeds. They tend 10
be shon-lived; germ ination rates vary
from 1-2 10 100 percent (see p.232).
DIVISION
Mat-forming species that readil)' root
from the creeping stems may be lifted
and divided. Gen tly pull or cut the plan t
into suitable pieces and repot or replan t
them (see p.234). \,Vi!hin a few weeks,
the divisions should fill out and make
neat, new clumps.
longer cullings bend while they root and
make untidy plants. If kept moist, 1he
cuuings should root in 3-4 weeks and
be ready for planting out in 2-3 mon ths.
Many species may be increased from leaf
cuuings (see p.235). Leaves that have
dropped off may not retain their axillar)'
buds, so alwa)'S take fresh leaves from
the plant. Plantlets form in 1-J months.
CUTTINGS
Take 2-4in (5-!0cm), se1ni-ripe stem
cuui ngs (see p.236). Large bushy plan ts
with thick stems, such as the silver jade
plan t (C. arborescens) or dollar plant
(C. owlla, syn. C. a1-ge11tca), are rooted
from 5-lOin (13-25cm) cuuings. Trim
off so1ne leaves 10 avoid stems bending
under the weight while rooti ng. rr taking
leaf cuuings (see p.237), use fresh leaves
just above the point of active growth .
They take a year or so 10 form a plant.
R OOTING LEAVES
Ju the wile/, Crassula leal'CS tlu11 fall
on rhc ground often tll1U: mot trnd
develop i11w new plcmts. SingJe
ka\'es may be when as curtings.
CRASSULA
NEALEANA
A-Z OF CACTI AND OTHER SUCCULENTS
E CH EVERIA
SEEDS from ~pring ll> -.ummcr,
0 1v1s10N from ~prmg lo summer!
Rosene CUTTINGS from spring 10 late M1mrnc:r,
STEM OR LEAF CUTT1NGS from ~pnng 10 -.ummcr
Sow seeds or species in this genus (see
p.232) al 6J-66°F (16-19°C). Mat-
forming plan1s 1hat root along the stems
may be divided (see p.234). Take roscuc
cuuings (srr p.237) [rom plants that
produce offscis. Those wi1h few or no
E CHINOCEREUS HEDGEHOG CACTUS
S EEDS m :,prmg or ~ummcr,
CUTTINGS from hue ~1>ring
:,ummer Ji~
Cacti in th is genus with
dense, comblike spines,
such as Echinocereus
reicl1enbad1ii, are fairly
Ed1i11mtum slow-growing and best
,tum1111r11) raised front seeds (sec
p.232) sown m 70°F (2 1°C). Those with
open spinati"on, such as E. cinerascens
and E. pcmalotJhus (s)'n. E. procw11be11s),
tend to be faster growing and make fine
E CHIN OPSIS
SEEDS from ,pnng lO summer!
GLOBUL.AR STEM CUTTINGS in ~priog OI' -.umnt('r i
COLUMNAR STEM CUTTINGS from -..prmg 10 <:;trh
summcrU
This genus, hard)' lo 50°F (10°C),
includes cac1 i formerly classified as
lobivia and Tricliocereus. Species ma)'
be raised from seeds. The type or cuuing
clepe11ds on the plant habit. Tall-growing
species make good roo!Slocks.
SEEDS
To set seeds, nowers mus1 be hand-
pollinated (sec p.233). Fruits take 2-4
mo111hs to ripen , then split lo reveal the
seeds; sow (see p.2.32) at 70°F ( 21 °C).
246
offsets ma)' be increased b)' leaf cuuings
(sec p.237) taken fro,n the main stem
U near the base or 1hc roseue. Leaves of
many show)' hybrids and a few species
will no1 come away clean ly [rom the
main s1e1n ; instead, use lower leaves
rrom nower stems, before the nowers
open. Older plants may be ungainly; cul
the stems 3in (8cm) below the roseues
and treat as stem cun ings (sec p.236) .
10
clumps: these cacti can also be increased
fro,n columnar stem cuuings.
Sever a stem near its base and 1rim
10 2-4in (5-IOcin). Leave for 1-2 weeks
to ca llus, then trea1 as standard cuuings
(see p.238). They may take 1-3 mon1hs
to root and produce a good plant in 1-2
)'Cars. It is possible to take cuuings from
the slower-growing species, bu1 they
may take up lo two )'ears to root and are
very prone to rot. Most species tolera1c
temperatures to 45°F (7°C) if dr)', bu1
prolonged co ld marks plan1s badly.
Most globu lar species are suitable for
hybrid izing (see p.21 ). Tr)• crossing
E. oxygona with highly colored species
such as E. au,·ea or E. Clrach11aca11Llia.
CUTTINGS
Globular cchinopsis and species such
as the peanut cactus (E. cliamaecereus)
produce numerous offsets that fall away
al the touch or a finger. Take globular
stem cuuings (see p.238). If taking stem
cuttings from columnar cacti (see p.238),
sever each slcm 12-!Sin (30-45cm)
[rom the base to al low for new growth.
Trim cuuings 10 less than 4[t (1.2111)
and allow 10 callus for 3-6 weeks.
ECHINOPSIS
CA LOCIII.ORA
Although mctny
Echinopsis are
globular iu sh<1pe.
otl1crs. sud1 (IS this
E. calochlora, an·
columnar in hczhir
wl1c11 yow1g. As thl'y
ma11m•, they form
large sprawling
(/w11ps of creeping
srcms. Thrsc
Echinopsis may he
i11CH"<1scd by columnar
su·m cuttings.
EPIPHYLLUM ORCHID CACTUS
Seeos in :-.pring or summer 1
CUTTINGS from sp1•ing 10 late
summe1·,
For best results, sow
seeds (see /J.232) of
species fresh at 70°F
(21 °C). Hybrids ma)'
Ep11•'""""' be cros.s-pollinatcd (sec
'"""""" p.233) easily, but the
seedlings vary greatly in hue and form.
Seed-raised plants nower after 4-7 years.
B)' far the easiest way to increase
orchid cacti is by n,n stem cuui ngs (see
p.238). Cul stems into 6-9in ( 15-23cm)
lengths. Very short cuttings usually
take an extra 1-2 years lo nower. The
cuttings should root in 3-6 weeks; those
roo1ed earl)• in the year often nower in
1he following spring. Al l Epiphyllum
need a minimum or 50-59°F (I0-15°C).
E UPHORBIA
Seeos from :,pring to summer i,
Cvn1NGS from nHdspring 10 nmh,ununer U
Succulen1s in 1his genus arc tender, man)'
needing a minimum 45-59°F ( 7-l5°C).
Their mi lk)' sap is very irri tant and can
cause blindness if rubbed in the eye; it
is hardened by water but can be washed
off wi th warm soap)' water. Dip cullings
in , and spray the parent with, water to
coagulate sap at I he wounds. The seeds
arc normally rare and costly. (See also
Perennials, p. 196. )
SEEDS
The seedpods explode when ripe , so 1ic
paper bags over them 10 gather seeds
(see p.232). Viable seeds germ inate wel l
at 59-68°F (15-20°C). Keep seedlings
and plants al a minimum 61 °F (16°C).
CUTTINGS
Globular species such as E. glo/Josa and
E. obesa someti1nes [orm offsets. Sever
these in midspring lO midsummer and
treat as cactus s1e1n cuuings (see p.238).
So,ne thick-stemmed, caciusl ike
EtqJhorbia, such as E. ca11arie11sis, are
fairly easy from cuuings; other small,
slow-growing ones arc more chal lenging.
Take stems up to 6ft (2111) long from late
spring to early summer; avoid unripened
growth. Allow 10 callus [or 1-2 weeks or
more, then treat as cac1us stem cultings.
The)' shou ld root in 1-6 mon ths.
In late spring, take up to 6in ( 15cm)
long stem cuttings (sec p.236) from
bush)•, slender-stemmed species such as
the crown or thorns (E. mi/ii). They
should root in 3-6 weeks. Do not
disturb 1he cuuings until ac1ivc growth
is visible, because the new roots are very
briule. Cuuings produce auractive new
plants in about a year.

GASTERIA
SEEDS in ~,>ring or in autumn Ji
m spring 10 :llllllllltl.
DIVIS ION
CUTTINGS from spring to summer U
This recently revised genus of roseue-
shaped succu len ts now contains just 16
species. It is best to avoid propagating
the plants whi le they are nowering.
They need a 1ninimum of 45°F (7°C).
Gasterias take about three years to
make decent , small plants from seeds.
Sow (see p.232) at 66-75°F (19- 24°C).
Most Gasteria offset fairly freely 10
form closely packed ,nouncls. They need
to be divided (see p.234) with a knife, so
the parent plan t must first be lift ed or
knocked ou t of its pot (see right). Allow
the cuts on the offsets to callus for two
clays in a warm, airy place, then pot 10
grow on. Older offsets often have their
own roots; make sure the neck of each
sits in the grit top-dressing and the roots
are in con tact with the soil mix. Pot
young offsets with no roots in equal
G YMNOCALYCIUM
Seeos Crom t-pring co autumn 1
D MSION Crom ~pring 10 autumn j DMSION m
GRAFTING from 1:uc spring to summer lU
These cacti prefer a 1ninimu1n of 50°F
(I0°C). Most species arc easy 10 grow
. from seeds. One or two species, such
as Gym11oa rlci 11111 mulre,re and G. bn1cl1ii,
offset quite freely and may be divided.
Grafti ng is necessary 10 increase the
brightly colored neon cacti cultivars.
SEEDS
The plum-shaped fruits ripen 10 green,
blue, or red, and seeds vary from very
small to large. Sow the seeds (see p.232)
at 66- 75°F (l9- 24°C). Many smaller
species nower in 2-4 years.
D IVISION
Lift and divide them as for Gasteri<r
(see above and p.235). They shot.rid make
nowering plants in 2-3 years.
OTHER CACTI AND SUCCULENTS
ECHINOGICTUS Sow seeds (sec p. 232) rrom
spring 10 early au1umn at 70°F (2 1°C) 1.
ESCOBARIA Sow seeds as for Gym11ocalyci11m
(see above) U. Trcal offsets as for
Mammillaria (p.248) 1.
Esrosi 0,1 As ror Ccreus (see p.24-JJ 1,
fAUCARIA As for nmvorrhia (sec l1bovc) 1-
FEROCACTVS Sow seeds (see p .232) in spring
at 50-68°F (10-20°C) 1-
GmBAEUM As for llcnvonhia (sec above) 1-
GLOTTIPIWLLIJM As Haworthia (see <1bove) 1.
GRAPTOPET,ILUM As for Eclievcria (sec
facing page) 1-
HAAGEOCl:REU:, Sow seeds and take stem
pans of fine grit and cactus soi l mix and
keep sl ightly moist. Offsets taken in
early spring make good plants in a year.
Gasterias wil l root from leaf cuttings
(see p.237), but they are not always
successful and are rather slow. Take
GRAFT ING
Neon cacti lack ch lorophyll and so
cannot sustain the,nselves.
Each must be na1-graftecl
onto a green rootstock
that is tall er than normal
so that it can sustain
itsel f and the scion (see
below and p.239).
GRAFrED NEO ' C,ICTUS
To err«« thi> p/11111,jlm graft
a scion from die 11eo11 C(lctus
(/1cff Gy111nocalyciu111
mihanovichii 'Red Clip')
01110 a 4-6in ( IO-l.5cm) w/1
Echinopsis mo1swc!1. Keep
1hc plmll <>UI ,,jfull sun IO
protea the tendi?,; coroffd scion
from scorching <1nd fmli11g,
cut1ings as for Ccre11s (see ,,.244) l-
H ,\RRISIA. Sow seeds and take cuttings as
for ClciStOC<ICWS (11,245) l ,
I IATtOR,\ Take stem cut1 ings (see p.2.38), 2-3
pads long, frorn spring to au1umn: take 3-5
pad cu11ings from club-shaped stems ll.
H EUOCEREIJS As for Epiphy/111111 (sec facing
page) 1-
HrLOCtRt~> As ror Epiphyl!wn (see facing
,,age) u.
JATROPHA As for E1111horbit1 (facing page) u.
JovmARBA Sow seeds (sec JJ.232) in early
spring at SO"F ( 10°C) 1. Take roscue
cuttings (p.232) in spring and summer,.
E CHEVER IA - J OV IBARBA
Lift the f1/a11t (here Gasteria
carina1a vcrrucosa)
\ 'llr.
<111cl sckcr a yow1g, hc(llthy
offset. Shal,c off as much
soil mix c1s possible from its
roots. Use a shwp lmift to
st·ver the offstl (sec inse1)
at the point wl1erc if is
(lfrC1d1rd to rhr J)CffetU plant.
fresh leaves from about halfway up the
plant. Set the cuuings in small pots of
almost pure gravel. \.Yater frequently to
prevent drying out. Pla,ulets shou ld
appear in 3-6 mon ths at the bases of the
leaves and take 1-2 years to form plants.
H AWORTHIA
S EEDS m ~pnng or m :rn1umn !
spring o r 111 :1t11t1mn ~
C UTTINGS from spring lo auwmn U
Viabili ty of seeds rapidly declines after
six months, but fresh seeds (see p.232)
germinate well , for plants in 2-3 years.
Many species offset freely and may be
divided (see p.234): separate rooted
rosettes; break clumps ( H. allenuaw,
H. cymbifonni s) into secti ons; divide
sto lons of species such as H. tessellata
and H. limifolia. Sever offse1s of taller
s pecies (H. glauCll, H. reinwardtii) at the
base; treat as stem cuuings (see p.236) .
Some root from leaf cu ttings (see p.237) ;
it is slow (1-2 years for a plant) but
useful for plants that do no t offset.
H OYA WAX FLOWER
S EEDS in spring or summer,,
CUTTINGS from sp1 ing to
s ummcrU
Most of these succulent
and se1nisucculen1
plants need a minimum
of 50°F (10°C). Tufted
Hoya seeds are carried in long
wnao,a pods. If sown rresh (see
p.232) and kept moist al 70-81°F
(21-2 7°C), they can germ inate in a few
days. Most, however, arc increased by
cuttings. Cut a length of stem just below
a leaf node and 3-4 nodes long. Dip the
base in hormone rooting powder, which
also helps to sto p the milky sap fro m
leaking. Treat as stem cu11ings (see
p.236) 10 root in 2-6 weeks. New
plants nower in 1-2 years.
247
A-Z OF CACTI AND OTHER SUCCULENTS
KALANCHOE
Seeos 111 ':.'>pnng 10 tnuumn U
STEM CUTTINGS from spring co
autumn iii
LEAF cumNGS from :,pnng
to ~ummcr 1
PLANTLETS from spr1ng 10
-au1umn !
K,ll11m hm· Seeds of Kala11cl1oe
/1/o,,ji-f,ht11111 (including 81yophyllum)
1nay be extremely viable or very weak;
sow them (see p.232) at 70°F (21°C).
The easiest wa)' to propagate bushy
plants such as K. blossfeldiana is from
stem cuuings (see p.236). Allow l11e
cuttings to callus for 24 hours. The)'
should root in 1-2 weeks. Take cuttings
after flowering Lo obtain new, flowering
plants in the following spring.
A number of small, leafy species,
such as K. pumila, are grown from leaf
cuuings (sec p.237) and root in 2-6
weeks. Some large, fleshy-leaved species,
such as K. beharensis, root very readily
from mature leaves (see IOp rigl,t) to
form new plants in 1-2 years.
Some species formerly classified as
B,yophyllum have slightly notched leaf
edges from which adventitious buds arc
produced. These buds fall to the ground
in the wild and form new plantlcts; thC)'
seem to root an)'wherc. K. tubijlora and
K. ,iaigrcmontiana are easy to propagate
in this wa)• (sec riglu). Grow plantlcts in
clumps or pot singly for new plants
in 3-6 months. K,11<mchoe requires a
minimum of 50°F (10°C).
LITHOPS LIVING STONES
SEEDS m autumn or ,pnng U
CunmGS m earl) ~ummcr U
These succulents are
slow-growing and very
prone lO rot. Because of
this, they need some
care in propagation.
t.111>01" Lithops are hard)• to
kc,rnsmoiU<Uld 54°F ( l 2°C)'
Because of 1heir slow grow1h, mosl
Lithops arc raised from seeds (see p.232) ,
which germinate easily in most cases.
The seedpods ripen in the summer;
crush them 10 gather the small seeds
and sow at 66-75°F (19-24°C) for new
plants in 2-3 years. The difficulty lies in
pro1ccling seedlings from rot.
Offsets or one or more heads may be
removed from larger clu1nps and treated
as globular stem cu ui ngs (see p.238).
Many or the cuuings may rot, so be sure
it is worth splitting the parent dump.
Allow the heads to callus for a few days,
then pot in smal l gravel. Keep slightly
moist, but not wet; rools should appear
in 1-2 weeks. It takes l-2 )'Cars to form
a new plant.
248
TAKING KALANC H OE LEAF CUTT INGS
Remove lu•ahhy leaves with stalhs intact (hert:
1plant. Tlm~atl onto a kngd1 of
of Kalanchoc bcharcnsis) from rhc parenr
wili" anti hang in
a warm. t1iry 11lace. out of tlirect sun. Mlihe surr
rhm rhe kavcs clo 1101 wuch each orl1e1:
KALANCHOES FROM ADVENT ITIOUS BUDS
Any 1imr bc1wen1 ~p,ing cmtl 11utu,1111 1 gently
1 puJI t1way some 11lw11fr.1c;. m aclvemilious
buds. from /1,e 11orchcd leaf 111C1rgi11s (11cre of
Kalanchoc tubiOoro. S)'II, K. dclagocnsis).
Tht• pltmrlc1s rom vel)' readily, t·vrrt in cttrpei.
M AM MILLA RIA
PINCUSHION CACTUS
SEEDS from spring lO aurnmn !
DMSION from s1>ring LO -.ummu ~l
CUTTINGS from ,pring lO ,ummer U
Self-fert ile species often set seeds, laking
up to a year to rorm mostly red, candle-
like pods. Galher seeds when lhe pods
are soft, and sow (see p.232) at 66-75°F
(19-24°C). Seeds remain viable for 5-10
)•cars. Seedlings flower in 2-5 )'Cars.
Mammillarias form clumps with age,
bul the offsets usual ly do not root while
still attached to the parent. Very small-
headed clumps such as M . vetula (S)'"·
/11. 111ag11e1icola) may be rooted, however,
and lifted and divided into sections (see
p.235). Allow any cuts 10 callus for a few
days before repotting or replanting.
Most offsets arc treated as globular
stem cunings (see p.238) ror new plants
in 2-5 years. The heads of some freely
offsetting species, such as M. gracilis and
the strawberry cactus (1\1. prolifera), fall
away al Lhe slightest pressure. Other
clu1nps should be lifted and su itable
offsets severed with a knife. These cacli
need a minimum of 45-50°F (7-L0°C).
Pwr,u lr<1f
~h,nds up
~ - Plmulcls produced
f,om butfi; or l,,,1.~t"
of l«1j ,1,111,
P/11111fets should for111 al 1hc bC1se of 1he Jccif
2 s11dl1s afrcr 3--o mo111hs. 011cc lliese are
/cugc e11011gh w hmulfe, <lewd, rhcm <1111/ por
1hen1 inclivi,l1wlly in 2i11 (5cm) pots of cacllls
,,ourng mix 10 grow on. IAl>el and ,vace,:
Thi,e-ciumrersjlff Cl 2i11 (5011 ) 1101 wirh .
2 ct1c1U~ soil mL\'. Acid 11 ¼in (1cm) layer of
fine gli1. Sci <11>0111 six pfmufe1s on wp. Keep
sfighr/y 111oisr i11 <1 bright <1iry place 0111 of
dhrcr sun. Tht·y should mo1 within a few days.
O THER CACTI ANO SUCCULENTS
K1 EINt,, Seeds (see p.232) at 68°F (20°C)
in spring or summer~. Divide stolons or
Lubcrs (p.235) in spring or summer,.
L"tPRANTll~S As Cm1opl1yru111 (see p.245) l-
MAI t-1•110RA As Co11opl1yr11111 (see ,,.245) l-
M ATHCANA Sow seeds as for
Gy11111oct1fyci11111 (see p.247) l-
M1 1oCAC ru~ Seeds as for Gy11111ocafyci11111
(s,,r ,,.247) l, In cofclcr areas, groft seedlings
as As11"phy111111 (p.2-13) l- Flat graft ( p.239)
small plan1s late spring 10 midsummer ll-
M ONADLNIUM Sow seeds (see p.232) at
66-75°F (19-24°C) in spring l- Stem
cuuings (p.236) in spring or summer U-
NcoPORTtRIA Sow seeds as for
Gy11111ocalyci11111 (see 1>.247) l-
NOUNA Sow seeds (sec p.232) at 66-75°F
( 19-2-1°C) in spring l- Cuuings clifficuh .
ORrOCEREUS (includes Borzfcac111s) Sow
seeds (ser ,,.232) at 70°F (21 °C) in spring
or summer 1.
OROYA Sow see<ls as for Gymnc>ccrlycium
(sc,· p.24 7) 1-
PACIIYCtRtus (includes Lophocereus) Seeds
or cu1tings as for Cereus (see p.2-14) l-
l'ACI 1Yrt1Y1 UM As for Ecl,e,•eria (sec p.246) I,

0 PUNTIA PRICKLY PEAR
Seeos from ~pnng 10 :,ummcr U
CUTTINGS from spring to summer!
Some of these reproduce so readily in
favorable conditions (some are hard)'
Lo -10°F/-23°C) that they have become
weeds in some regions. Avoid contact
with the painful barbed spines and
smaller spines, called glochids.
The large, hard-coated seeds are
produced in often edible fruits. The)'
can take up to two years LO germinate
and then ma)' yield a poor percentage
of seedlings. Sow (see p.232) at 70°F
(21°C) for a decent plant in 3-5 years.
Mall)' Opu11ria have Oat, oval, pad-
like stems, which root very readily as
sten1 cuuings. Take them as shown (see
right) and keep them slightly moist at
66°F (19°C). The cuttings shou ld root in
2-6 weeks and should form a good-sized
plant in 2-3 years.
P ARODIA
SEEDS from Spnng IO
autumn 1
CUTTINGS from spnng to
:,ummcr 1
GRAFTING spring to summer,
Most or these tend lo
be solitar)' until quite
P,mxl,a old, so lhe best method
mag11ifirn of increase is from seeds.
A few, such as Pal'odiCI ottonis, freel)'
produce offsets, wh ich may be used as
cullings. Special fonns are best grafted.
Cacti in this genus (s)'n. Eriocacrus,
NotOCC1Cl11s, \Viggi11Si(I) are hardy to
4 l-50°F (5-10°C).
SEEDS
Seeds are produced in spiny berries or
red pods. Those in the Notocactus group
are easy 10 raise from seeds. Sow them
(see p.232) at 19-24°C (66-75°F) to
germinate in 2-3 weeks. Seedlings of the
Parodia group are slow-growing for the
first two years but then grow rapidly
and soon catch up wi th other species.
New plants Oowcr in 3-5 years.
CUTTINGS
Sever offseLS at the bases and treat as
globular stem cuu ings (see p.238) for
new planLS in 2-3 years. OffseLS of
P. ottonis form at the ends of short
Slolons. Lift the parent plant, and they
should c01ne away very readily.
GRAFTING
Cuuings of misshapen forms wil l root,
but as grafted plantS the)' are less prone
to rot. Flat-graft (see p.239) 1nons1rose
stems; graft sections of crested (cristate)
forms as for Cleistocactus (see p.245) for
an auractive plant in 2-3 years.
OP UNTJA STEM CUTT INGS
\Vear rhidl gloves n11d use a ptiper collar 10 guard agninsr
1the bm-bed Sl'ines. Use sharp lmife
,1cross a
srrnighr Leave
<1
tJ1e cuuing in a warm, dry place
joi111 .
fol' 2-3 days ro allow 1/ie wound 10 ccdfus (see inset).
P ELARGONIUM GERANIUM
Seeos in :mtumn or in lalc winlcr,
D1v1s10N m spring to summer U
CumNOS from spring 10 summer U
Of succulenLS in this genus, lhe species
are easy 10 raise from seeds. Most neshy-
s1emmed and shrubb)' forms are grown
from cuuings. Tuberous species or
plantlcts may be divided. These planls
prefer a minimum of 50°F (10°C). New
plants Oower in 1-3 years. (See also
Perennials, p.205. )
SEEDS
Remove the "parachutes" from the small
seeds lO sow (see p.232) at 66-75°F
(19-24°C); germination occurs in 5-25
days. In hot weather, seeds of man)'
succulents lie dormant so are best sown
after summer. Seedlings may da,np off
( see/>. 46) if chilled or in poor light.
DIVISION OF PELARGONIUM ROOT TUBERS
Bl'eal: ,oo, jusc
<1bovr rube,
KALANCHOE - P ELARGONIUM
Jivo·tl1irds fill ci small pol
lO sever a p<uJ. cuuing
2 will, soil mix, lopped with
a l<lya offlue gri1. S1a11d rhc
cuuing on it. Add more gril.
DIVISION
Separate root tubers of mature plants
as shown below for new planLS in 1-2
years. Treat as adult planLS, but water
sparingl)' until new growth is visible.
Some species, such as P. graveolens, form
plantlets on underground steins: these
are easy Lo lift and divide (see p.235).
CUTTINGS
For shrubby succulenLS, take 2-4in
(5-lOcm) semi-ripe cuuings (see p.236);
cut below a leaf scar. Dip in weak
hormone rooting compound; dry for 24
hours. Set in soil mix, water in , then do
nol water for two weeks. lf they do not
rool, keep just moist and rooLS should
appear. For those with thick, neshy
stems, allow cuuings to callus for
about a week, then treat as above.
Ju irs growing season, Jifr rhc parenr plant (hel't
1 Pclargonium lob:uum) or remo,•e ir from its 11ot.
Cut or bre(~ll off one or mon! tubers from tlie roots.
H11/f-fill a small /JOI with c11crus polling mix 11n<I
add II shallow /11ye1· offine grir.
L11y 1he tuber
2 on fO/J and
cover wid, mOl'e
grit. Place in a
brig/11, ni1y spot at
66°F (19°C): liecp
rhe soil mix
sfiglufy moisr.
A new s'1001
slwuld l,e
/Jroduced from
each wbc,· cifrer
2-3 weel,s.
249
A-Z OF CACTI AND OTHER SUCCU LENTS

R EBUTIA 5CHLUMBERGERA
SEEDS in spring and in DIVISION CHRJST/VIAS CACTUS
au1umn !
Several species, such as Rebu1ia albiflora, SEEDS in Spnng 1
DIVISION rrom :,prmg lO early CUTTINGS in spring and summer 1
:,ummer, make malS of small heads, which rool
GRAFTING in midsummer U
CUTTINGS from spring lo earl)' down on 1heir own. Simply break a
summer, cl ump in10 sec1io ns (see p.235) for new These cacli mus1 be cross-pollina1ed 10
GRAFTING from hue :.pring 10 planlS in 1-2 years. Allow 10 callus for set seeds. The grapel ike fruilS soften
kuc summer l two days, then replanl or po1. when ripe. Sow seeds (see f>.232) al
Rcbulicr 66-70°F (19-21°C) for plan is in 3-4
""s11r1icuw Mosl of 1hese (including C UTTINGS years. For nowering plan lS in one year,
Sulcorebuiia and \Veingartia) 1olerate dry Mosl species offse1 freely in10 clumps. take nm s1en1 cuuings (see p.238), 2-3
cold 10 l 5-25°F (-17 to -4°C) and are easy Sever offse1s al 1heir bases and 1reat as whole segmcnis long, as lhe plan1 s1ans
10 increase by seeds, division, or cuHings. globular s1e1n cuuings (see p.238). in10 grow1h. They root very readily. Root
1hree cuuings back-to-back in a poi for a
SEEDS GRAFTING bigger, more balanced plan1. Chris1mas
Sow seeds (see p.232) al 70°F (2l°C) for Fla1-graf1ing (see p.239) onto columnar cacli may be apical-wedge grafted (see
nower in 1wo years or so. Avoid sowing Echinopsis is best for forms lha1 ro1 p.238) 01110 an upright roo1s1ock, such as
in midsummer; tc1npera1ures over 84°F easi ly, such as R. canigueralii f. rauschii, Selenicereus, 10 crea1e a siandard in 2-3
(29°C) seem to inhibi1 germ ina1ion . or do not root readily, such as R. heliosa. years. Planis are hardy 10 41 °F (5°C).

R HIPSALIS SIDE GRAFTING RH IPSALIS

MISTLETOE CACTUS .
t
Seeos from spnng 10 autumn U

I.
CUTTINGS from s1>ring 10 auturun 1
GRAFTING rrorn lmc; -,pting 10 mu},ummcr lU
This genus includes cac1i formerly
known as Lepis111iu111; all grow best wi1h Covf'r g,aftetl
a minimum of 45°F (7°C) . Most may be tirea wirh rnffl<l 10
2 - \IOp drying out
raised [rom seeds. Taking cuuings is '
usual ly quick and eaS)'· Rhipsalis may
also be gra[1ed to create a standard with
a head of pendent stems.
Srodl up w 4ft
SEEDS ( 1.2111) tall

Mos! Rhipsalis nower fairly easily and
produce 1iny, brigh1 berries, which 1ake
abouc six mon1hs 10 ripen and become
s1icky. Wash 1he seeds in warm, very
slighlly soapy waler, dry, and sow a1
once (see p.232) a1 66-70°F (19-21°C)
for nowering plants in 3-5 years.
C UTTINGS
To lake a siem cuuing, de1ach a slender
s1em at a join! and cul it in10 4-6in
(10-15c1n) long sections. Treat as for
na1 sie,n cuuings (see p.238). The
Prcp<1rc Cl 2-4in (5-/0cm )
1as Rhipsalis
from a sp~~cies
scion
pi locarpa (see
2
such
rhc scion ro one side of rhe srocl,. Press slig/11ly
lef1) for side grcifring onio
a sle11dc,. columnar ClfCtus
roorsiocl, (here Sdenicereus).
cuuings shou ld roo1 in 3-6 weeks and
will make nice planlS in 1-2 years.
GRAFTING
For the roo1S1ock, use a piece of stem
from a Selenicereus (see facing page), and
Place the scion and storh together so that
tlie cambium foyers meer: if necessary, place
10 ,·cmovc any air bubbles. Pin in place with
a cactus spit11? (see insel) and bind tl1e graft
wirh raffia. 5111hr if necessary and grow on.
s1ake flnnly. Prepare 1hc siock and scion
as shown above (see also p.240). Once
active new growth is visible, usually 2-3
weeks later, remove lhe raffia. Grow1h is
usually fairly rapid 1hereaf1er, producing
an aurac1 ive plan! in 1-2 years.

OTHER CACTI ANO SUCCULENTS

PcRCSKIA Sow seeds (sec p.232)
in spring a, 66-75°F ( 19-24°C)
l, Take s1cm cuuings (p.236)
rrom late spring w summer l·
PH OSOCERFUS Sow seeds and
take cuuings as for Cereus (see
p.244) , .
PLEIOSPll.OS As for Hm,;ord,ia
(see p.24 7) l,
PTEROCACTUS Sow seeds as for
Gy111nocalyci11111 (sec p.247) l ,
Take cuuings as for Mmumffl<u-fr,
(p.248) l
RHODIOI.A As for Sed11111 (sec
facing page) l ,
RL>CIIIA As for Co11ophyru111
(see p.245) l·
STAPl,1IA As ror liawonhia
(sec p.24 7) l ,
STENOCACTUS (syn. Echi11ofoss11lo-
caclus) Sow seeds as for
Gymnocalycium (see p.24 7) ,.
Take cuuings as for Mammillaria
(p.248) , .
Sl'ENOCEREUS Sow seeds and
cake cunings as for Cereus (see
p.244) , .
STOMATIUM As for H,rworrhia
(see p.24 7) l-
$TROMllOCACTl/S Sow seeds (see
p.232) at 70°F ( 21°C) in spring;
seedlings may be clifficuh 10
establish l·
S't'NAOENIUM As for Euphorbi<1
(see p.246) l-
THEI.OCACTUS Sow seeds as ror
Gy111nocalyci11111 (sec p.247) l ,
TREMATOSPERMA Sow seeds
(see p.232) in spring a, 70°F
(2 !°C) u. Cuuings are difficult.
TRICHODIADEMA As for
Co11ophyr11111 (see p.245) , .
UEBEI.MANNIA Sow seeds (see
p.232) 31 75°F (2~°C) in spring
lU- Grafe seedlings from late
spring to midsuinmcr orno
Percsl:iopsis rootstocks as for
Asrrophy111111 (see p.242) u.
V11.1.AOIA As for Cotyledon (see
p.245) , .
\VEBEROCEREUS As for
Epiphyllum (see 11,246) l ,

250

SEDUM STONECROP
S EEDS from spring lo a\Humn !
0 1v1s10N in spring or in hue summer!
CurnNGS from s1>riog lO !>Ummcr •
The succulent species in th is genus (syn.
Hylo1elephi11111) are caS)' to propagate.
The method depends on the habi t of the
plant. Many are quite hardy, but tender
species need a minimum of 41°F (5°C).
SEEDS
Sow seeds (see p.232) of hardier species,
such as 5. acre, at 55-61 °F (13-16°C),
tender species at 59-64°F (15-18°C).
Seed-raised plants nower in 1-3 years.
D IVISION
Divide deciduous, clumping species
such as 5. specwbile in spring (see
p.234). Lift mature mat-forming species,
for example 5. lydiwn, to find how far
along the stems the mat has rooted,
PROPAGATING SEDUM FROM LEAF CUTTINGS
r:,u . matUl'f
feavt·s roOI best
ADVENTITIOUS ROOTS M,my species, such
<is dtis Scdum rubrminclUm, readily produce
aclve,11i1io11s roots Jro,,1 ,Jie srcms and lc,1,•cs.
Single lem•esfmm rhes1! JJlmus may bt mou:d in
tmys Hue<l wirh ,fomp newspaper before poui11g.
5ELENICEREUS
S eeos from :,.pring l o
autumn 1
C UTTINGS from spring lo
summer!
The largcr-nowered
5elenicereus are known
Sdcni,.,.,,.,,
as Queen of the Nigh t.
The species that have
grmul,jlon,s cylind rical steins, such
as 5. grandiflorus, make good rootstocks
for side gra fting (see p.240) other
epiphytic cacti. Minimum 59°F (15°C).
Seeds are not always available since
they take so long (5-10 years) 10
become a nowering plant, but they
should be sown (see p.232) al 61-66°F
(16-19°C) as soon as ripe or in spring.
Most 5elenicereus are fairly easy to
increase fro1n cuuings, for mature plants
in 2-5 years. Take 2½-4in (6-lOcm)
stem sections; treat as nat stem cu llings
(see /J.238) lo root in 3-6 weeks.
then divide it with a sharp knife into
sections, each with some rooted stems.
Divisions should nower in one year.
CUTTINGS
Most species root very readily from
cuuings, usually in 1-6 weeks. Tender
plan ts, such as 5. 11,brum, 5. hin ronii,
and 5. morganianum, are easily rooted
from leaf cullings (see below and p.237)
for a small plant in one )'Car. They can
also be increased fro m stem cuuings
(see p.236) LO obtain plants ,nore quickly,
in 2-3 months. Cut 2-3in (5-Scm)
from the tips of the stems and allow the
cuuings 10 callus for a day. Ta ke ¼-l '/4in
(2-3cm) long cuui ngs of hardier,
creeping forms, such as 5. sp11 ri11111.
Roselle cunings (see p.23 7) of
hardier, roseHe-form ing sedums such
as 5. spal/111/ifoliu m nower in 1-2 years.
TAKING LeAF CUTTINGS Flicl, off plump
le<~vcs from du• s1cm. Place 011 damp newspaptr
iu bright shadtat 6l °F (l6°C). lu 3-4 weehs,
rhe leaves should form roois mul /Jlmulc1s (see
inset) cH l11dr bases. Pot i11 pans ro grow 011.
SEMPERVIVUM H OUSELEEK
S EEDS from ~pring to ntllumn !
01v1s10 N in summer 10 autumn I
C UTTINGS in summer 10 aUlumn I
Some of these succulents arc hardy to
-30°F (-34°C). The roseues die after
nowering, but the plants offset freely
to fonn a spreading carpel.
Flowers must be ha nd-pollinated (see
p.233) to set seeds, but only a limited
number of seeds may still be produced.
Crush the tiny, dry fruits to gather the
seeds. Once they are so,vn, leave the
seeds in a sheltered spot, such as a cold
frame, 10 germinate.
Most 5empervivum form a number
of offsets each spring on long, slender
stolons. These often have their own
roots and may be detached and polled
or replanted (see p.234). Offsets establish
more qu ickly in 4-6 weeks if kept moist
and out of direct s un. Treat unrooted
offsets as roseue cuuings (see p.237).
P ERESKIA - W EBEROCEREUS
5 ENECIO
S EEDS froin .:,pnng 10 :,ummcr 1
D1v1S10N from spnng 10 late summer I
C UTTINGS from spring 10 sun11ncr I
Succulents in this genus, which now
includes tender species of Kleinia,
Notonia, and Othomw, arc hardy 10 a
minimum of 42-50°F {6-10°C). New
plants reach a good size in 1-3 years.
Break the parachutes of hairs off the
seeds before sowing {see p.232). Cover
them with a layer of fine grit. They
should gcnninate in 2-4 weeks.
A number of sticklike species, such
as 5enecio arriculallls, sy11. K/einia
aniculata (candle plant), spread by
stolons. Single steins or clumps may
be separated from the plant (see below) .
Choose stems with adult characteristics.
If the shoots have no roots, add a th in
grit layer to the soi l mix; sit the shoot
on this. Tuberous species, such as 5enecio
oxyriifolius, may also be divided (p.235).
Take 4-6in ( 10-15cm) stem cuuings
(see p.236) fro1n species with thick
stems and 5-lOcm (2-4in) stem-tip
cu Hi ngs from thinner-stemmed species.
DIVIDING A SENECIO
Scnaro
<!rlicul,uus - - '
Lift the fJlu-e,u l'lallt or remove ii from i1s
1 pm. Sdat a wdl-develo/le,I shoo, at the
edge of rhe dumJJ. Cur or bnx,ll ii off with a
length of wule~rouml stem (stolon). This ma)'
already have roots. Replcuu the parent plant.
Allow 1/re shoor ro calli,s for 24
2 hours. Por so tl,m its roots are
just covered witJ1cactus soil mix
haifw<1y in a J ½i11 (9cm) po1. Fill
in arou11cl the sliool with fine
gravel ro the rim. u,bel an<l
grow on CtS for
su~m cuttings
(sec p.236).
251
 ULBOUS
PLANTS
Most bulbous plants are best planted in bold groups or naturalized
in sweeping drifts to make the most of their flowering display; propagating them
enables the gardener to build up large stocks quickly and inexpensively
T he propagation of bulbous plants is ahnost an
act of faith, since so much of what happens is
out of sight. Most techniques, however, are sin1ple
and can be achieved in a sn1all space with only
basic tools and soil rnixes, and large stocks of
plants can be built up quickly in n1any cases.
Young bulbous plants that you have raised
yourself settle well in the garden, \Vhich is not
always the case with large, purchased ones.
The term bulbous plant is a broad one, used
here to embrace true bulbs, corms, and tubers,
fleshy structures that store food and water to tide
the plants through dormant periods when they
retreat underground. An understanding of the
plant's annual cycle of growth and dormancy is
often a good guide as to when to propagate it.
Many of these plants reproduce naturally by
means of offsets, and therefore division of offset
clumps is a widely used method of propagation in
cultivation. Seeds are recommended for increasing
species and sorne tubers that do not lend
themselves to vegetative propagation, although
patience is required because seedlings can take
several years to reach fio\vering size.
EXOTIC BULB
There m·e only two species o/Veltheimia, both of whicJ1
are bulbs found in Sourh J\friw. This is V. brac1eata.
Ir is easily 1>ropagatcdfl'0111 seeds or offsers ,md,
w111S1ial fm· b11lbo11s plcmts, fm111 leaf cuuings.
There are several propagation techniques that are
unique to bulbous plants, such as scaling, twin-
scaling and chipping, scooping and scoring, and
sectioning, all of which exploit the ability of the
dormant storage organ to produce new bulblets,
connels (connlets), or tubers. Some bulbs forn1
bulbils or bulblets naturally; these offer a ,vay of
increase that is si1nilar but much quicker than
seeds. A few bulbs can be increased from cuttings.
Rhizornatous plants are sometilnes grouped
together ,vith bulbous plants, but in this book
they are found in the
Perennials chapter
(see pp.146-213).
0RNAMENT,\L ONION
AIHum crist0phii is a
parricufo,-ly decorative
member of the onion
family. Its large seedllead
is actually a spherical 11111be/
of many s111,III seedpods, wl1ich -,:c£,!;l',;;
splir open when ripe to 1·ele<1se their
/1/acl1 seeds. Tl,e seedl,eads d,y very
well Jo ,· onimnental use.
253
BULBOUS PLANTS

DIVISION
ulbs and corms increase naturally
B by forming clumps of small bulbs or
cormels (cormlets) that draw nutrients
from the parent plant. Most are auachcd
10 the storage organ itself (offsets), but
some fonn on other parts of the plant
(bulblets and bulbils). h is simple 10
pro pagate these plants by spliuing them.
Many tubers do not increase in this way
but instead grow steadily larger; these
must be raised from seeds (see p.256)
or, in a few cases, from cuttings (see
individual genera, pp.260-79). A few
tubers (notably dahlias) form clum ps
that can be divided like perennials.
Mall)' garden bulbs produce so many
offsets that they eventually become
overcrowded; as they compete for space,
light, and moisture, new bulbs fail 10
thrive or flower, becoming "blind. "
Divisio n keeps them health)' and strong.
So,ne bulbs, such as Ca rdiocrinum
gigcmtewn , take several years 10 flower
and then die, leaving a few offsets
for increase. A few (Li lium ca11didu111 ,
Crocus tommasinicmus, Nerine, and some
Sternbergia) flower best if congested;
divide them only 10 increase stocks.
Most bulbous plants have a dormant
season and are best divided just at its
onset, after the foliage has died down,
but man)' can be divided just as they
start into g rowth. Evergreen bulbs and
conns, such as Dierama, Cyrt<mthus, and
Lloydia, should be divided imntedimcly
after flowering. The period of dormancy
va ries, depending on the species' native
climate. For example, a C,in mn is
dormant in spring, a s nowdrop in
sum mer, and a tulip until late summer.
OtVIDING OFFSETS
Most offsets usuall y fonn within the
parent bulb's tun ic, o r skin, if there is
o ne; they are auached to the basal plate ,
from which the roots grow.
Some bulbs, such as daffodils and
lilies, produce thei r offsets 10 the sides
of the parent. ln the case of tulips, the
offsets are often direct ly beneath. Most
corms, such as in gladioli, form around
the basal plate, while o thers (Crocosmia)
develop "chains·· of corms.
The size of offsets varies. Crim,m,
for example, produce quite large offsets.
Deep digging arou nd the parent plant is
necessary 10 free the perennial roots
before careful removal of the offsets (see
below). Some Alli um produce quantiLies
of tiny offsets that are easily separated
fro,n the pareni by the very act of
digging up the bulbs.
Take care when lifting parent bulb or
corms or knocking them out from pots:
many are fragile and easily damaged.
Clean off the so il and detach the offsets
(see below). ln nearly all cases, they can
be removed by hand, but tightly packed
clutnps, such as with Anemone nemorosa,
Co,ydalis, and Eramhis, may need 10
be cut free with a knife. l[ you wound
the parent bu lb, dust the exposed area
ligh tly with a fungicide before
replanting to protect it from rot.
Offsets that are close in size to the
parent bulb, and can thus be expected
10 flower the followi ng year, can be
replanted directly into thei r Oowering
posiLions. Prepare the site first by
forking ii over and clearing away all)'
debris and perennial weeds. \.Vork in
so,ne well-rotted organ ic material to
condition the soil , as well as a good
co1nmcrcial bulb fertilizer.

DIVIDING LARGE BULBOUS OFFSETS

111 spring. before
1 C1C1ive growtl1
begins, lift a clump
,,fbulbs (here of
Crinmn) with (I
gllrdcu fork S11"1<C
off <my excess sail
Jmni the roots.
Pull the clump
llparr a11d stlec1 large
bulbs with healthy,
well-developed
offsets. Discard w,y
th<H arc withered, Pull or cut tl,c offsets carefully PrepW'C 6111 (1.5cm) /iOtS with
misslwpc11, or sl1ow 2 from each bulb, wJ:i11g wrc ro 3 a moist, sandy soil mix. Poi
signs of disease. preserve cmy roots. Dust damaged ec,cl, offset irrdiviclu"lly. up w irs
basal plates with fungicide. neck. Label anti wmer 1hc pol.

DIVIDING SMALLER BULBO US OFFSETS

.,,
D<1ffotlil bull>< Offsc1 Ptm:,u bulb
wilh offsets - - tci

Lift a clump of marure bulbs.
1 Selecr the healrl,y bulbs, ,wd
reject those that are dead or 1luu
show signs of 11csts or diseases.
Scpt~r(lle "")' pairs or clumps
2 of bulbs witl, large offsets iuro
single bulbs by gently 1111lli11g them
apar1, without danwging die roo,s.
Clea11 the bulbs by rubbi11g
3 them wid1finger wul d1umb
to remo\'e any loose, outer tunics.
Oust 11,e bulbs with fu11gicide.
Pot the divided bulbs. Pla111 the
4 bulbs m 1wia d1cir own depth,
wut spc,cc them tU least their own
width apart.

254

DIVISION OF STOCK-PLANT CO RM S
To c11co11ragc 1hr prod11c1io11 of cormds (/,ere
1 of gladioli), ~hallowly plant mature c:onns in
spring. Plant in mws in ci 111irsC1)' bed I in
(2.5c111) deep and 4i11 ( /Oc,11 ) <1pal'I.
Connds should
com< ""'"Ymsil)
o
••• ..
.____L . '----'-""'--'--
P111l off''"' con11rls. The corn,ds will
3 p,obably vmy in size. but most of ,hem wiH
be viable. Discard n11y shrl\1eJe(I cormcls: store
the rest frost-free i11 d1) peac
1 O\'f l winter:
Small offsets are best grown on in a
1nore controlled environment. Some can
be lined out in nursery beds, but small
quantities are more easily managed if
they arc poued. Many should reach
nowering size after two years and can be
planted out in spring or autumn.
Son conta iner-grown offsets, once
divided, acco rding 10 their size, and
repol in a si1nilar soil mix.
P OTTING OFFSETS
Bulbous plants need a free-draining
soil mix; o therwise, the)• are prone LO
rot. Most are best in a mixture of equal
pans soil-based 1nix and fine grit. For
lime-hating species such as Lilium
speciosmn, make up a mixture of one
pan pulverized bark, five pans acidic
soil 1nix, and five parts lime-free
small gravel.
Use pols that allow for two years'
growth. Either plastic or clay pots are
suitable, but clay pots dry out faster and
so will need more watering. Most bulbs
or corms should be covered 10 twice
their own depth; some, like crocuses,
pull the bulbs down to the correct level
as the roots grow. Pot small offsets in
groups of five or more, large ones singly.
In spring, draw out drills, ·Hu (10cm) apm·t
4 and !in (2.5cm) deep, in a free-draining
1111rse,y bed. P,11 con11cls 2-3in (5-8cm) O/JW'I ,
<'.o"e,; wcae,: and l<lbcl. Grnw cm fa, 2- 3 years.
AFTERCARE OF OFFSETS
Young bulbs and corms need protection
from extreme heal and cold. In colder
climates, most are best in pots in a cold
frame (see p.40) that shelters them from
winter cold and keeps out pests and
weeds. Cold frames can overheat, so
keep them ventilated during hot, dry
spells and shade them if necessary.
Tender offsets, especially corms, may
need 10 be kept in a warm greenhouse
for pan of the year.
Nursery beds are suitable in warmer
regions, where they may need shading,
or for hardy bulbs and corms in cold
climates, where protection must be
given during periods of severe co ld.
Control pests such as bulb ny and mice
that eat bulbs, as well as weeds.
Wh ile the young plants are in active
growth , feed and water them regularly.
It is a good idea LO sink pots in a plunge
bed (see p.257) or a nursery bed to keep
a more even temperature around the
pots and prevent them from drying out
quickly, so that less watering is needed.
During their dormant period , most
bulbs and corms should be kept barely
moist. Water them on ly to stop the soil
mix fr01n drying out completel)', Shade
DIVISION
During s1m11nc,;
2 rtlllll\'C tJ1e
flowe,1u:ads ro l'"C"ent
their was1i11~ r11e,gy
011 pnxlucing
unwanted seeds.
In cm1mm1, "'
when foliage l,egius lO
die clown, wref11lly lift
1J1c corm.:. with a lumd
Jori,. The con11s should
/,c,ve produced lmgt
numbers of conneJs
arow1d d1cir bases.
CORMELS IN SEED TRAYS
Cormels can be planted In seed trays in
moisr, griuy soil mix i11sicad of being li11ed
0111 in a bed. Space the con11els I in (2.5cm)
c,parl, then cover with ½in (Jcm) of soil mix.
summer-dormant bu lbs and corms in
hot weather to avoid overheating. So,ne,
however, such as so1ne fritillaries, must
never be allowed 10 dry out.
S HALLOW PLANTING OF STOCK PLANTS
Gladioli are propagated commercially
by shallowly planting stock corms 10
stimula te production of corrnels. This
technique (see above) can be used for
o ther bulbs and corms such as crocuses,
irises, or iva1s011ia: it takes a liule longer
than simple division but is ideal if large
numbers of offsets arc needed .
B ULBLET$ ANO BULBILS
A few bulbs, such as Iris reticulata , lxia,
some lph eion, and Oxafis, form bulblets
(tiny bulbs) around the parent. Stem-
rooting lilies and mall)' Aflium species
form bulblets on the stem below ground.
Lift the parent and separate and pot the
bulblets as for offsets (see facing page).
Other genera produce tiny bulbs, or
bulbils, in the leaf axils (Cafocho,·tus and
lilies) or nowerhcads (G<1gea and some
Allium). They are shed naturally, often in
late summer. Gather them from the
ground or snap off the plant. Pot them
and grow on as [or cormels (see above).
255
8UL80US PLANTS
SOWING SEEDS
eed-sowing may seem a slow wa)• crocuses) or produce berries (such as
S ncrease bulbous plants, but can
be rewarding. h makes iL easy Lo build
iL
are eaten by small mammals or birds.
up large stocks, and after two or three
years, successive sowings will give a new
batch of nowers each year. Rare species
are usually on ly available as seeds. The
best way to propagate woodland species,
which do not tolerate drying oul or root
disturbance, is from fresh seeds.
8ulbous plants increased vegetatively
lose vigor over Lime and fall prey Lo
disease, especial ly lilies and related
genera such as Nomocharis. They can be
renewed by seed-raised bulbs, which are
always virus-free even if the parent is
1101. Cultivars may set fertile seeds but
do not come true and may yield only a
small nu1nber of garden-worth)• plants.
GATHERING AND STORING SEEDS
Seeds of most bulbous plants are large
and easy to handle. The seed capsules
are usually on the old nowered stems. A
few bulbous plants ha,•e inconspicuous
capsules at ground level (for instance,
RIPENING SEEDHEADS
SOWI NG SEEDS
Let1\·t ½in ( Jcm)
clear of rim
Prep<ire a pol with free-draining
1seedTapsoilthemixp11cl,e1
and firm (sec
sow the
illSCl). to
seeds evenly over the surface.
256
LO
and Anon) that in the wild
A1isaem<1
Ripe capsules (see below) quickly
shed their seeds; watch them closely.
Gather the capsu les (see below) and
shake 1he seeds in10 a paper bag. Like
capsules, berries are ripe when they turn
color - squash them to extract 1he seeds.
Wash off any pulp in warm water, then
spread the seeds on paper towels to dry.
Fresh ly sown seeds germinate quite
even ly, usually by the following spring,
although nearl)• all remain viable for a
season if kept cool. Store the seeds in
paper bags at 41 °F (5°C) - the crisper
comparunent of a refrigerator is ideal.
In colder climates, it is often impractical
10 sow seeds of tender subjects when
fresh, because of severe winters.
S OWING SEEDS
Cut a small sample of seeds in half LO
gauge how many are viable: fertile seeds
will be neshy and pale or Lranslucenl.
Seedlings form storage organs quickly,
GAT HERIN G SEEDS
Most bulbous seed
capsules (/,ere of
Fritillaria imperialis)
arc green when unripe
(see left) wul brown
mu.I dry when ril'f.
(see inse1). liarvcs1
the seeds as soon as
the capsules ri/Jen.
Use a sieve ro scauer a tJ1in Cover Ilic soil mix with ]inc
2 foyer offine soil mix over the 3 g,it or c,q1wrium gravd to the
seeds. There should be jusl enough ,,or rim . Add ir carefully to avoid
mix to co"er the seeds. disturbing die seeds.
so most seed trays are too shallow.
A 3½in (9cm) pot or Sin (13cm) pan
is best. Mix equal pans of soil-based
seed soil mix (see p.34) and fine grit
or coarse sand for clay pots. For lime-
hating bulbs, mix equal parts peat (or
coir) and fine lime-free gri t (such as
aquarium gravel); add a soluble feed
sui table for lime-hating seedlings. Wi th
plastic pots, use six parts of grit to four
of soil mix 10 avoid waterlogging.
Fill the pot to three-quarters of its
depth with soil mix ( see below). Water
it by spraying the surface or by standing
it in a tray of water until the surface
becomes moist by capillary action, then
allow iL to drain. Sprink le the seeds
evenly over the soil mix. Seeds that arc
large enough to handle, as with some
fritillaries and lilies, may be set on end,
about ¼in (5mm) apart.
Cover the seeds with soi l 111ix and
top-dress with fine grit to de1er slugs
and snails, inh ibit growth of liverworts,
and denect heavy rain so the soil mix
surface does not pan. Label the pot.
Cut the ,ipe capsules
from 11te parc111 plant
(here Alstrocmeria).
Kei,p in a 1iaper 1mg
in a d,y. ai•)' pla<e for
up to two wcelJS. The
capsules will splii
open. releasing the
seeds (sec inset).
Label the pot, tl1en stand it in
4 a shady arcn, or f'lunge ii in a
s"'ul be<l (see facing page), IO
lieep 1hc soil mi.x fro m ,hying 0111.

US ING PLUNGE BEDS
Si11h pors of sce<ls 1111 ro rhc· rims iu a /Jed oj
co,1rsc sand or grit, it1 (i rol<l frame o, mule,
grt'c11hc>ust· swging. Gmuv rhcm oa oulhig to the
1,Jmus· don11011l JJt·, i()(h lO nwla· watfri11g t·e1sk,.
GERMINATING SEEDS
Seeds are often spurred into germination
as snow melts in the wild. A winter
freeze for hardy seeds or above-freezing
chill for tender seeds, even if in the
refrigerator, then a period at arou nd 50°F
(10°C) aids germination . Tender seeds
need a frost-free environm ent; some also
have specific temperature and light needs
for germination to take place (see A-Z
of Bulbous PlantS, pp.260-79). All seeds
must be kept moist; if they cir)' out after
germinating, the)' will die; on 1he other
hand, ther rot in prolonged moisture.
Their g ro wth is also checked b)• extreme
heat or cold, so s pring sowings may be
less successful than autumn sowings.
A plunge bed (see above) keeps pots
from dryi ng out and moderates the soil
mix temperature, so it docs 1101 overheat
in summer or freeze in winter. Water the
plunge medi um so moisture can soak
through clay pots by capillary actio n;
water plastic polS di rectly but sparingly.
Alternatively, keep the po lS in a cool,
shaclr area, such as the lee of a wall or
in a cold frame. Control any worm (see
JJ.40), insect, or mammal activil)' (p.4 7).
Bulbous seed leaves arc often grass-
like in appearance. Some seeds sprout
within a few weeks, but the majorit)'
or autun1n sowings will not show 3 11)'
signs of gcnni na1ion unti l 1he first mild
spell in late winter. Som e bulbous plants,
such as Paris, stay dormant for a year;
others, such as Arisaema and Colchicum,
germinate erratically over a few years.
CARE OF SEEDLINGS
Group seed lings according to their
dormant periods. Most need to be barely
moist when dormant; a few, such as
lilies and so me crocuses, need watering
all year. To bulk up seedlings rapidly,
keep them in growth as long as possible
by feeding and watering them regularly
in the growing season. Bulb or tomato
POTTING BULBOUS SEEDLINGS
Scccl lrnn·s look
like ~UIS\
011c,ye<1r-old seetlli11gs (lrett· of Fri tiIlaria
1 mclcagris) arc often nol sufjidcndy wdl
,ttn·lopfd l(> pol. Afw, tJ,c gn>h'ing scasan.
t1llow the foliage to die bncl: mul SlO/> W<Ut' I ing.
DEVELOPtvlENT OF BULBOUS SEEDLINGS
ferti lizer is good, since it has a high
po tassium and low nitrogen content ,
wh ich aids storage organ development
without pro mo ting leaf g rowth. \.Vhen
the leaves begi n to wither, sto p feeding.
All bulbous planlS resent root
disturbance, so leave the seedlings for
two g rowing seasons before polling,
unless they are overcrowded. Seeds that
germinate erratically may be left longer.
GROWING ON SEEDLINGS
Pot seedlings when they arc dormant
and the soil mix is nearly dry. Carefully
knock out the pot of seedlings: as you
separate them, note the position of the
growing poi ntS, because some bulbous
plantS, such as E,y1hro11ium and some
Co,ydal is, look similar al bo th ends and
it is easy to plant them upside down.
To exclude worms, cover the pol
base with a piece of screening. Add ½in
( lc1n) of coarse g rit for fast drainage,
then three-quarters fill the po t with a
soi l-based polling mix combin ed with
an equal pan of fine grit. For lime-
hating plants, use acidic soil mix . Top
it with ½in (1cm) of fine sand to keep
each basal plate or base in a free-draining
SOWIN G S EED S
Evenly \pmt·,t
lmllA
In rhr saoml yt.'or. when the y oung bulbs
2 01 co, ms me donmmt, re11ot rhem 111 f1csl1.
g,i uy bulb soil mix. Plact~tht·m at twicr tlici,
own depth anti SIHICCtl thci, own wiclrh apart.
After rwo years, sccd/i11gs
(lrcn: of Calochortus tolmiei)
may vary noticcal,ly in
size. Tl1e forgest will hm,c
germinated in d1r firs t y em:
wl,erccis the smallest nwy not
have gcnni,wted until the
Sel0tulyem:
Sort the smalle, from rl,c
larger seedlings wul /JOI tlirm
se,,<1rcrrdy; all slroultl develop
smisfacto,ily.
area and make it easier to see the till)'
storage organs when repolli ng. Space
the storage organs (see above) to allow
for two more years' growth before
planting out. Cover them with soil mix,
then with a ½in (1cm) layer o r fine grit.
\.Vater well and place in a sheltered place
o utdoors or under cover, depending on
the temperaLu re needs of the species.
Plan t out very large seedlings in a
nursery bed LO grow on or in their final
positions, where they should flower
more quickly. Prepare the soil first with
grit and well-rolled o rganic mauer.
S ELF- SOWN SEEDLINGS
Man)' bulbous plants seed themselves
outdoors, but it may be difficult to
identify seedl ings naturalized in grass.
Most are best left in si1u and divided
only if congested (see /J.254). Lift rare or
tender seedlings while in g rowth; keep
the root ball in tact and pot (see above).
HYBRIDIZING
Some bulbous plants may be hybridized
(see p.21 ) successfully, particularly those
with prominent stamens and stigmas,
such as daffodils, irises, lilies, and tulips.
257
BULBOUS PLA NTS
SCALING AN D CHIPPIN G
caling, twin-scaling, and chipping
S arc methods of propagation that are
unique 10 bulbs. The storage organ itself
is broken or cut into pieces, each of
which )'iclds a new bulb. It is a more
exacting method than division (see
p.254), since a controlled environment,
wilh moisture, aeration , and warmlh , is
essential for success. It is the best way,
however, of increasing stocks of bulbs
that do 1101 rcadilr increase by offsets
or set seeds in cultivation.
Scaling and chipping can be performed
on good-quality purchased bulbs as well
as bulbs dug up from the garden. The
young bulbs seule well in the garden,
which is not a lways the case with more
mature, purc hased bu lbs. Li l)' scaling,
unlike seed raising of bu lbs, affords no
pro1cc1ion against the transfer or disease,
so on ly plants that are vigorous and free
of disease should be u sed.
Bulbs that have loosely packed scales,
such as all lilies and some fritillarics,
may be scaled, with the scales being
removed b)' hand. Bulbs with a tighter
structure, such as daffodils, hyacinths,
SCALING BULBS
Lift ,•irus.Jra bulbs in late' summer or cm ly
1 <mtun111, hcforf root g, owrh srarts. Clean die
bulb wut SIIClfJ lllf d1r ,w,uircd 111m1ber of ou,cr
scaks as dose rn the basal plmc as possible.
Rf/>lmu rhc pllrcm bulb i,m11tclimdy.
\Vhen bulblc1s ll(lve fornicd, usually by the
4 S/11 ing, 1al1c the srnles out of rhe bag. If 11,e
scales are sof1, gcmly pull 1he111 off. If they arc
still fir111. 01· if l'OOIS we cmc1gi11gfrom 1/,e l",s"I
plmc or sa~le callus, lecnre du_· scak mwchccl.
258
and Nerinc, must be cut into pairs of
scales. Small bulbs or nonscaly bulbs,
for example Hippeastrum , may be cu t
into chips. A piece or the basal plate
must be retained on each section for
twin-scaling and ch ipping 10 succeed,
but with scaling this is not necessary.
The optimum time for scaling and
chipping bulbs is when their food
reserves arc at maximum , during the
dormant stage before new root growth
starts. This is usually in late sum mer
or earl)• autumn for spring to summer-
Oowering bulbs and in spring for those
1ha1 nower in autumn or winter.
SCALING BULBS
After the 1opgrowth dies down , lift a
few mature bulbs and clean off the soil.
Select onl)' health)', vigorous ones for
scaling. Pull off and discard withered
or damaged outer scales, then snap off
the scales in succession as s hown below.
Usually a few scales are removed and the
pare nt bulb is re planted after treating
with fungicide. For a large quantity or
new p lants, scale the en tire bu lb.
Put scm1c J1mgicidnl powder in a clcllr
2 plastic 1mg. Add rhe scales (/1Cl'e o( a lily)
a11cl sha,,r 1/,e bag gc111/y w com lire ;cal<-s
rho,ougMy wi1h d1t· 1mwde,: Ahcnuuivdy, sooh
111 fungicidal solu1io11 and drain.
Por rhe bulble1s i11 equal 11w1s soil-based
5 porting mix m1cl fr11r grit, ~ingly ,,r st•vernl
to a pcm. \Varer, label. rlien top·dn.·ss wid1 grit,
Keel' 1J1rm in a cool, slimly place c>vc, .\urtm1c,;
rhc11 overwinre,- them in a cold (rw11i~.
Treat the scales with fungic ide, then
place them in a suitable mediu111 in a
plastic bag. This ma)' be a peat and
pcrlilc mix1ure or ten parts vermiculite
moistened with one pan water. The
bag is sealed, retaining as much air as
possible 10 allow the scales to "breathe,''
and left in a dark place at 68°F (20°C).
For bulbs from cold climates, such
as lili11111 111artago11 and North American
lilies, the scales may well need, after
six weeks' wannth, a further six weeks
at 4l°F (5°C) 10 simulate winte r and
stimulate bulblet production. The c risper
section of the refrigerator is ideal.
A tradi ti onal alte rnative 10 the plastic
bag is 10 insert the scales Lo half their
depth in pans or trays filled with equal
pans of verm icu lite or peat and sharp
sand. Keep the scales humid under a
cover or in a closed case a t 68°F (20°C)
in the greenhouse. This makes it easier
10 check the scales for rot.
Check the scales after a few months
for new bulblets (sec below); leave the
scales auached 10 the bulblets if new
roots have grown on the bulblct's till)'
\
\
Pl'C,Jlrn.· a mixrur·t of c,11ml pcu-ts 11crlite and
3 mobr pc<H subs1u111c or p,•m in ll second.
clear "'"s1 ic 1mg. i\dtl 11,e coarccl sccrlcs. lt,flarc
rhc bag. d1c11 seal lmd ltibd it. Kcr111l1e #){ig in
,r da,·/1 J>l<1cc lll a IClll/><Tlllure of 68 F (20 C).
Pol 11,c bulbs iuro /a,ger pols f(IC/, spring
6 or autumn. If grown sn·tnil to o pm1, gently
Stp<ll'llle 1/i, bulbs first (sec above). \Vl,e11 11,e
nt:h' plmus rellrh flowering si::t•. plan, d1eru out
tithrr in 1hr gwdc11 OI' ju large containers.
 SCALING ANO CH l PPING

Cur cloh" duough

- h<btll 11"1t(
J
•
Old 1001S

Select a clean, healll,y. don11m11 bulb (here
1 of a dqfl()dil). Remove the bmwn, outt·r
sai/es mid cur ,,ff 1111y old, fib,ous roots or dead
rissut', l1eepi11g 1he b/lsti/ plmc inwct. Slice off
rhc nost· of the bulb wid1 a clc1111, sharp lmife.
1i,n1 the bulb upside down mid cut ii
2 vertically in hafj. and rhe11 in(O <1uarrers.
Dependi11,; 011 rlie size of lire bulb. you cw,
c/h,idr it into eight or more segme111s, ,,mvid,~d
lluu each retains n piece of the basal plCHc.
Peel /"'ck )lairs of scales from e11ch piece:
3 cur rhrm ffeC <ll th£" base will1 <1 SC<1lpcl.
Eacl1pair of scales should h<n-t· a JJiece of die
/Jas11/ />fore mwchecl (sec insc,). Dip rhe twin-
scales iu J1111gicidol sol111io11 w1d allow w drnin.

basal plate as well as on the callus al the

end of the scale. Whether separated or
CH IPPING BULBS
I
anached, pot the bulblets individually I
or several to a pan, depending on their
size. Insert them into a free-draining soil
mix (see facing page), covering them
with their own depth of mix . Use acidic
soil mix for lime-hating species, or ,nix
one pan of ground bark to five of soil
mix. Most new plants nower in three
o r four years.

TWIN-SCALING
vVhen twin-scaling bulbs (see above),
scrupu lous hygiene is essential 10 Dig 11)1 ahealthy bu/I, (here II Hippcasirum) Holding the bulb wirh Ilic b«sal plate
prevent any disease from entering the
new plan ts through cul surfaces. \¥ash
1 when don11cmt and clean ii. RemO\'f any 2 uppnmo.)t. cur ir inw 8-J 6 similc,rly sized
JJ(lf'Cl'Y ourcr ~hin m1cl r,im bach rhc root1) wid1 seclions C'chips ...). dt:pc11<li11g on tht· size of
your hands carefully (or wear surgical a clean, shar,, Jmife withoul cutting into tJ1e the bulb. l\'f<lltr sure that n1d1 clt111 rewins a
gloves) and use a sterilized culling htis,,1 plmc. Cur badt ,he growing tit>, piece of tire bClSCll )1/(lte,
board and tools. Wipe the knife blade
with denatured alcohol between each rmmer!lf d1ip:, Rmk olloh:,
cul (see also p.30). inf ungicrck mr W drrulc1rt·
Select high-quality, dormant bulbs
and clean as shown above. Re,nove
any old, outer scales. Cut the bulb
in to segments and split each of these
in to pairs of scales, starting with
,.---, -
the outer two scales. For this task, a
sharp, thin-bladed kni[e or scalpel is
essential to keep damage to the bulb
tissue lo a minimu1n. Larger bulbs may
)'ield up 10 forty twin-scales. Treat the
twin-scales therearter as for scales (see
facing page), but check them regularly Socdl the chips in a fu ngicidal solution. Pk,cc rhe c/1ips in a cle(II plcrstic bctg
and remove any twin-scales that show
signs of rot. In about 12 weeks, bulblets
3 m<uk up according to 1l1f mcmufacturcrS
i11suuctim1s,Jo,· up 10 15 minutes w liilJ any
4 co11t<1i11i11g ten parts of vermitulitc lo 011c
/Jlll't of ,wu"r. h!fl11rc r/,., b11g, rhe11 seal 011(/
should form on the top of the basal hllrteria or f1111gal S)lorrs. Allow thr chi)IS to l11br/ ir. Keep rl,e b11g in" ,1«,·1< pl11ce 111 68'f
plate. Treat them as scales. dmin 011 a melt Jo,· abou1 12 hours. (20 C). Chee/, 1hr hllg 1>erimlical/y and re11w,·c
,my chips chm show signs of ro,.
C HIPPING
In chipping, the bulb is cut downward Aftc,· about 12 week,. b11lblt-ts should
to produce 8-16 "chips'' rather like
the segments of an o range (see right).
5 fonn jus1 above ll1e IJ<1s<1l plate. Pot the
chips i11<1i,1idually in Ji11 (8011) 1101s in frcc-
Hygiene is as i1nponan1 for ch ipping as drai11i11g, soil-b<1sc<l 1w11i11g mix. lttscn
for twin-scaling. The treated chips may e•ad1 chip wirh its basal J)lacc downward
be placed in a bag or a tra)', as for scales, and the bulblers covered by about ½in (lc,11)
to form bulblets. Pot the chi ps and grow of soil mix. LcClvc rhc scales e.,1w«d; they
on at the recommended ten1perature for 811lbl<1 - - - will slowly ro, 11w11y as tire bu/biers develop.
forms
Lhe species (sec A-Z of Bulbous Plants, bc1 wren Grow 0 11 inn sheltered posirion, in conditions
pp.260-79) to nower in 2-3 years. srnks ap,,rop,imc w d,c indi\tidual species.

259
A-Z OF BULBOUS PLANTS

A-Z OF BULBOUS PLANTS

ALLlUM O RNAMENTAL ONION
D IVISION Ill 1-:tlt ,unHllCI'
B ULBILS 111 late -,ummcr,
SEEDS 111 lalc -,ummcr 10
t1u1um11 or spring 1
CHIPPING Ill earl)' :,,ummer
Most of these perenn ials
arc bulbous planLS, but
t\Uuun a few arc rhizomatous
l,ollw"licum (sec Perennials, p.149).
The)' Oowcr in spring, summer, or
autumn. Propagate species such as
A. Jlavum and A. mairci by division
of offsc1s, and all 01hcrs cxccp1 sterile
hybrids from seeds. Man)' self-seed
readily in sunn)', free-draining sites.
A few have bulbils in 1he nowcrheads
I (see below) or may be chipped. All t)•pcs
of propagation should yield a nowering
plant in two Lo five )'Cars.
u below). For smaller seedheads, shake
D IVISION
Many species, such as Allium moly,
produce offseLS ver)' prolifically - some
are Lin)' and form on the rooting portion
of the stein so ma)' easily be lost in
careless 1if1ing or repo11ing of 1he
parcn1 bulb. After 1he leaves die down ,
de1ach 1he offsets (sec p/J.254-5) 10 poi
or replant , accord ing 10 their size.
Take care 10 note 1he position of the
growing points, which arc 1101 always
conspicuous, before de1ach ing 1hem.
SEEDS
Gather seeds of large-nowered Allium
b)' removing 1he en1irc Oower stalk (see
1he seeds direc1ly in10 a paper bag. Sow
1he seeds fresh or s1orc a1 41 °F (S°C)
and sow in the spring (see p.256) . Most
germinate in 12 weeks, but some take
up 10 a )•ear. Take care when polling
on seedl ings 10 keep the growing poin1s
uprigh1; the)' are not very obvious.
CHIPPING
Chip (sec p.259) dis1i nc1 ly colored
cuhi vars such as A. holla11dic11m 'Purple
Sensaiion' 10 retain 1he 1rue color.

ALLI UM BULBI LS GATH ERI NG ALLIUM SEEDS

Scmu· ornanu·rut1I
S!'t·cies, such <1s
A. roscum,
A. sphacro-
ccphalon . and
A. vincalc (shown
hrrc), smneti,ncs
JJro,tua aericrl
bulbil; i11 tlic
flownhracl. Pull
off thr bu/bi/,
gn1tl\'. Crow
thf·m on in pob in
moht, griuy soil Gather sct·tl,; when rhr JJowrrheml wrns I 11,t~ a cardhoartl l>ox witl1 fxtpc,: H1111g rl,c
mix, SJHKCtl Jin 1 b1ow11. bcjo,, tl,e s,·,clpml, open. 1i,g gentl_v 2 flowc, swlk upside clown in ti cool, ai1yr
(2.5cm) ll/}(fft a11cl ill tl,c flowc, suilk; if it ccm1cs awlly n.·tulrly at 1,lacc so that 1l1c flowe,1u•cul is suspetukd just
w a tlrJJth
CO\!Cll'll the base. ii is, ipe. Co"e' d,i~ wowul with somt~ ab,>vt~ tht· lining of th(' hox. TJu· ripe11ing St'<'d
of½in (Jc,n). soil M swp 1>csrs f,om currriug the plam. capsuks ,\ill open w shed seeds 01110 the 1xrpc1:

ALSTROEMERlA PERUVIAN LILY

DIVISION in late ::,ummcr or ;.1ulunu1
S EEDS in late Mtmmcr 1
These perennials produce wh ite starchy
1ubers, wh ich some1imes appear like
creeping rhizomes. Species are best
increased b)' seeds because 1he tubers
are so delicate and are easil)' damaged;
na,ned cuhivars can be increased
on l)' b)' division. Peruvian lilies are
good subjecLS for experimen1ing with
hybridization (see p.2 I) because man)' of
1hc seedlings show pleasing variations.
Flowering pfanLS may be expected in
2-3 years.
DIVISION
Offse1 1ubers are of1en connec1ed very
1enuousl)' 10 the paren1 crown. When
dividing a plant, lif1 the crown with
great care, before 1he leaves have quite
died down (sec p.254). It is best 1101
10 split the crown into very small
pieces if replanting immediatcl)' in
open ground.
U SEEDS
A/s1ro111 eria seeds should be sown fresh;
it is hard 10 break 1he dormancy of seeds
once 1he)' have been dried and s1ored.
The seed capsules "explode" 10 scauer
1heir seeds when ri pe. For 1he bes1
harvest of fresh seeds, cover the ripening
sccdhcad for a few da)'S with a small
pillowcase or a cloll, bag secured around
1hc stalk; 1hc seeds will be caugh1 in 1he
bag. Alterna1ivcly, cul 1he en1ire nower
stalk and hang it up 10 cir)' and release
iLS seeds (see right).
For 1he bes1 rate of germ ina1ion , sow
the seeds immediate!)' (see p.256). Keep
them al a 1ninimum 1cmpera1ure of 68°F
(20°C) for four weeks, 1hen remove the
seeds and, using a kn ife, ch ip each outer
case above 1he e,nbryo, which shows as
a dark spo1. Resow 1he seeds and keep GATH ERING AI.Sl"ROEMERI A SEEDS
them a1 abou1 50°F (10°C). As soon ,,. 11,e scrcll,ccul l"'s cl, in/ fully. cu1 the
The new 1ubers are easily damaged, stem at rts luise~ aml Jic a paper bag nround the
so plant out the seedlings by 1he po1ful , Set.Ylhe(lc/. H<mg it Ul)Siclr clown in ,m ai,)1 plaa
as for E1yth ro11 iw11 (sec p.267). J<n two wcchs to gather lire seeds.

260

AMARYLLIS
DIVISION m spring:
Seeos in autumn !
The only species,
Anw,yllis bella<lo1111a,
is a bulbous perennial,
hardy to 23°F (-5°C),
but needs long, hot
Am"ryllis sununers to nower well.
b<lfado111111 ·Ha1ho( It hybridizes easily with
other members of the Amaryllidaceae
family, such as Cri11u111, Bn111svigia, and
Neri11e (see p.274). Seeds from named
cu ltivars do not come true, so the bulbs
must be divided; some may be chipped.
New plants nower after three )•ea rs .
DIVISION
The parent bulbs may be 8in (20cm)
deep in the g round, so care is needed
when lifting them. Separate the large
offsets (see p.254) and grow on in pots,
keeping them just moist until they are
established in autumn.
SEEDS
The neshy seeds often germinate while
still on the stem and must be gathered
promptly, before the)' wi ther and die,
and sown im mediately. Sow them singly
in 3in (8cm) pols, just cove ring them
with soil mix or coarse sand (see p. 256),
and keep at 61 °F ( 16°C). To hybridize
Ama,y/lis with o ther genera, see p.21 .
CHIPPI NG
Slow, large-nowered cultivars can be
increased by chipping (see />.259) if
there arc no t many offsets .
ANEMONE WINDfLO\VER
DIVISION in mid• 10 hllc summer!
SEEOS i1\ summer,
There is a wide range of tuberous
species in this genus. Offsets are
produced 2-3 years after a plant begins
nowering. The species sel f-sow very
readily, and seedl ings from cultivars of
Anemone bla11<la, wh ich arc grown for
their variation of color, are often qu ite
acceptable. (See also Perennials, p.188.)
Divide the offsets after the leaves die
down (see p.254). Plant them where they
are to nower, about lin (2.5cm) deep, to
nower the next year, or pot and plant
out when in full growth in the spring.
The seedheads are often wooll)• or
hairy and are best sown fresh. Re1nove
as many of the hairs as possible prior
to sowing by rubbing the seeds in your
hands with a littl e dry sand. Sow in tra)•S
in seed soil mix (see p.256) and leave in a
cool, sheltered place. Germ ination can be
erratic; the first seedlings should appear
in the following spring. Most should
Oower beginning in the third year.
ARISAEMA ] ACK-IN-TIIE-PULPIT
0 iviS,oN "'autum~, l
Seeos m aunmm •
secriONING in spring U
These tuberous
perennia ls produce
hooded, so111etimes
bizarre-looking
A, llitff'IIUI j nnoreSCences
('fU1ClicJ1,;~jmum COITI p OSed Of a Spadix
("Jack") within a spathe ( the "pulpit').
Tiny, scalelike offsets prod uced
around the disk-shaped parent tuber
can be removed (see p.254) and poued
to nower in 2-4 years. The smallest
offsets are best left attached to the
parent until the following year.
Since there are no garden cultivars,
all Arisaem<l can be raised fro1n seeds.
ARUM L ORDS AND I.AD/ES
DMSION m carlr summer!
Seeos in 1:ue summer to aULumn Ji
These mainly spring-nowering tuberous
perennials form tight clumps and may
be lifted and separated when dormant
(see p.254) after nowering. This can be
done even though the parent Luber has
sent up 5- 6 be,rying stal ks: iL could
have 50 dormant offsets around il.
Arum creticum in particular responds
well to division .
The seeds germinate best if sown
fresh (see p.256). Extract the seeds fro m
the berries, as for Arisaema (see above),
but wear gloves to protect against the
caustic juice. Plants nower in 3-4 years.
BABIANA
DIVISION in autumn i
S EEOS in :nuumn * them when the foliage discolors and
Th is 111ember of the lridaceae family is
among the hardiest of the Cape bulbs;
the corms may be left outdoors at
temperatures clown to 23°F (-5°C).
Lift and divide established corms
(see p.255) and pot in equal parts of
soil-based mix and sharp sand, or plant
outdoors at a depth of 8in ( 20cm). Keep
them well watered over winter. Flowers
ml!)' be produced in the following year.
Babiana ambigua forms aerial corms in
the leaf axils: in the wild , these dro p to
OTHER BULBOUS PLANTS
ALBUCA Divide offsets (see offsets as for /\mmyllis (sec
p.254) when dormam , . abOl'f) ,.
Sow seeds (sec p.256) a, AMORPIIOPIIALLUS
55-64°F ( 13-IS'C) , . offsets if produced, when
(syn. X
X AMAR\'(,IA PA!Oi'.l'.Ri dormam (see p.254) U.
8t"unsdo,ma 11orl?cri) Divide Sow ripe seeds (sec />.256)
ALBU CA - B Al31ANA
Remove the berries from the plant as
soon as they have turned red and are
.
npe, and squas h them to release the
seeds. The nesh of the berries may
inhibit germination; wash the seeds
thoroughly and spread them to d ry on
paper towels for 24 hours in a warm ,
airy place. Sow the seeds im1nediately
in Lra)'S (see p.256). In any case,
germination is often slow and erratic
and it is worth keeping all sown seeds
for up to four .years before finally
discarding the1n. Arisaema sil1ol<i<mu111 ,
however, germinates readily from fresh
seeds. Seedlings may be slow to reach
nowering s ize, usually in 3-5 years.
Some gardeners also section the
tubers when they are dormant, as for
Cala<lium (see p.262).
ARUM UERlltES
The l>t·rrics (hen• of 1\rum irnlicum) <lJ)l)Cor in
suum1rr b(jon.· die llutunm kovc.\. Gather tlu:m
Jo, thti, stcd~ wl1c11 rhcy ,urn red or orange.
the ground as the foliage dies. Remove
treat as corm cls (see p.255).
Gather the seeds, which ripen to
black, and sow them immediately in
trays of seed soil mix combined with an
equal part of sharp sand . They should
germinate with in four weeks at 55-59°F
( 13-l5°C). Transplant the seed lings
individually into deep pots of equally
free-draining soil mix. The contracti le
roots will pull the developing corms
down to the appropriate depth. Seed-
raised plants nower in the second year.
a, 66-75°F {19-24°C) U.
ANEMONCLL.A TMALICTROIOES
Divide Divide well~cstablished
plants (sec p.254) in autumn
U- Sow fresh seeds (see
p.256) in summer,.
261
A- Z OF BU LBOUS PLANTS

B EGONIA
BULBILS m l.uc summer or s1>ring 1
Seeos in la1c Mnnmcr or ~1>ri11g U
S ECTIONING 1n spring'
.
SECTIONING TUBEROUS BEGONIAS
Usr s,wrp.
Sh.·, ,lr::cd Jmijf

C UTTINGS m "Pring 1

The tuberous perennials in this genus

include the Tuberhybrida, Mu ltiflora,
and Pend ula begonias, of which there
arc many named cuh ivars. All are tender
and dormant in winter. Some species,
such as Begon i<l sutherlm1dii, produce 1\jrcr rhc kal'CS clic bad, /11 spring. space lf1e tubers \Vhcu shoors t1ppem: cur
bulbils; these provide an easy means
or propagati on. Seedlings are prone to
1 in autumn, lift the dormcmt
tube, s cmd ckm, them. Dusr
2 2i11 (5fm ) ap<ffl and J i11
(2.5cm) deq, itt a I my of
3 ttffh wbc, into pieces.
each with <H least one slioot
damping off (see p.46), so controlled the crowns with fu11giciclc aml moisr. sandy soil nib:. Keep mul some roms. Dust tl1r curs
conditions are needed for success; s1orr in boxes of di)' sa,ul. rhem cu .5.5 -6/ ' F (/3-/6°C). wirh fu11gicic/e ; afJc>w to ccdlus.
sectioning and cuttings are less tricky.
Most new begonias flower in the firs t After a few Ughrly
sum mer after propagatio n. (See also
Perennials, p.190.)
4 hours, pot
each srcrion sing(v
5 Jinn (111{1

ware,; and label

in a mixtuit: of each pot, Keep
BULBILS eq1wl p<rrls pe<H rhc wbcrs m a
If bulbils develo p in the leaf axils, and 1,crlitc or fine minin1um of 64°F
gently detach them when they are gril. so 1/11· top of (I 8°C) 111a /11,m,c/,
fully developed. Surface-sow them cacl, wbe,. is k"d bright place unril
_immediately as fo r seeds (see p.256) with the surface. eswblishi'C/ (sec left).
on moist soilless mix, or store
them dry in perli te or vermiculite SEEDS Three to four weeks after sowing, po t the
at 41°F (5°C) for potti ng in the Sow fresh seeds (sec p.256) o nly when seedlings singly in a mix of equal parts
following spring. the daylight hours are lengthen ing; if peal and sand, with a little slow-release
not. store at 4 1°F (5°C) and wai t to fertilizer. Feed ,vi th a tomato fertilizer
• sow in spring. Surface-sow seeds in pans dil uted to haff-strength. Begonias make
,. >, · B EGONIA SEED CA PSULE of peat-based soil mix (or a peat-free good subjecLS for hybridizi ng (see p.21).
· 1t~-- ~ begonia ,,1a111 c,111
One
- ·,~ ,., produce many ll1a11snmls
alternative). Water, then cover the pan
with a sheet o r glass or clear plastic and SECTIONING
. •,"\-I·.· offi11c , clustlihe seeds. keep it at 64-68°F (l8-20°C). The seeds Large tubers wi th several growi ng points
t tr,-, . :> t. ·. J\lfb: the seeds wirh fine should genni nate quick!)', at which time ca n be sectioned (see above) before
..· 1.,
• • •
1 :'.,'
• • - $i111tl ro sow thi•m e\'rn Iy. the sheet of glass should be removed. planting in spring. Eac h section should

CALADlUM A NGEL \VINGS CUTTING UP CALAD IUM TUBERS

D MSION m spring!
SECTIONING in s1>ri ng U

Generally, only named cul tivars of these

tender tuberous perennials are grown ;
these 1nust be pro pagated vegeta1ively
to retain the co lorful foliage variations.
Most, including Caladiu m bicolor
cultivars, prod uce offsets. The firs1
leaves o n each new plant often reven
to the species and will look atypical, but Use a de£111, sharp scalpel w cut each wbcr Dust rhc cut surfaces of ead1scaion with"
in a few months the foliage will show its 1 imo sections, each rcwining <t dornwnr 2 fungicide. such a.s sulfur dust, or immerse
true colo rs. These are rai nforest plants, growth b11cl. Press ge111ly a11cl s111001/1 ly 011 rhe 1/ic111 in a s11itablc f1111giciclal solurio11 . Leave for
so the 1ubcrs will not survive d ryi ng out. scalpel IQ obtain a detu1 cut. severc1l dc1ys 011 a wire tmy ro dry mid callus.

D1v1s10N Prcpore some •

Lift the tubers before growth begins and
snap o r cut off any offsets (see Jar ,ight
3
pots
5i11 (J .Jc111)
wi1h (I Jre<'-
and p.254). Grow on as for sections. tlmh1i11g, soilleh
mix. Pot c<ul,
SECT IONI NG section singly,
Lift the often spherical tubers before growr/1 bucl
growth begins and cul them into uppernwst, t111d
sections (see right). Cu t as cleanly as cover wirh its
possible to 111i nimize damage to the OIYII ,kprh of l'lc1ce rhc pouecl scc1ions in a humid place
tuber tissue. Root the sections in free-
d raining soil mix, such as equal parts
soil mix. Lightly
water and r,1bd.
4 at a 111i11i11111m of 68°F (20°C), such as in
a hccucd closed case. Tl,e wbcrs should prod11ce
peal and sharp sand o r perlite. shoots in 7-10 tltiys.

262

CALOCHORTUS FAIRY LANTERN, MARIPOSA
0MSION tn aUlumn 1 from flowering the next year. Remove
8 ULBILS in autumll '
Seeos in a111t11111\,
Most of these bulbous
perennials will not
tolera1e dampness or
cold when dormant.
Cnlod1ol'lus All may be propagated
\•t·nu,\1u, from seeds, since there
O\,ctwimer n tube~r as shown in .stt·ps l - 2 (see are no garden hybrids. Some species,
left) . IVJ1c11 11,c shoo1s are 2i11 (5cm) wll. c111 for instance Calocltort11s bal'batus (S)'n.
the~m mu of the rube,; so th<H each ht1s a pica Cyclobotltrll lutea) and C. uniflon,s,
of 111bcr m 1l1c base (see inset). Po, 1hem si11gl_v. often produce bulbils in the leaf axils.
Division may be necessary when offsets
have at leas1 one growing point and become so congested that flowering is
some good roots. IL is bes1 not 10 be 100 inhibited. IL can take four years 10
g reedy: only existing roots will develop; produce flowering-size bulbs.
roo1less sections of tuber are not able to
produce new ones. When strong new DI VISION
shoots appear, pot 1hem in10 1he same The paren1 bulb produces offsets after
soil mix as for seedlings and gradually !lowering, usuall)' preventing 1he parent
harden off (see p.45) in a sheltered place.
CUTTINGS
CAMASSIA QUAMASH
Before replanting, or as new growth
D IVISION in aulumn'
emerges in early spring, cut individual
shooLS from the tuber, each with a piece
Seeos in :nuumn * SEEOS
of tuber at 1he base (see above). Pot Some s pecies from this s mall genus
1hese basal stem cuuings singly in equal of bulbous perennials, for example
parts peat and perlite and keep moist and Camassia leiclulinii, have a number of
humid al a temperature of 64°F (18°C) . cultivars, which can be increased only
After a month, check for roo1ing, 1hen by division. Lift the bulbs after flowering
1rea1 as seedl ings. and detach the offseLS (see p.254). They
During summer, cul off 4in (10cm) shou ld Oower after two years.
nonflowering sideshoots 10 use as stem All species come easily from seeds,
cuuings. Roo1 as for basal s1em cuuings. which are produced freely; indeed, 1he
species will self-sow if the seeds are not
gathered. Self-sown seedlings arc to be
found near the base of the parent plan t
but do not need 10 be transplanted.
CALADIUM OFFSETS
They take liule room and grow well ,
l11S1eacl of sec1io11i11g particularly among shrubs. If sowing
a 111ber. slice off i1s 11ose (see p.256) the seeds, do not allow the
to encourage ;r to fonn container to dry out. Seed-raised plants
offsels from 1he can reach flowering size in three years.
dornumt buds.
Poi 1hc 1uber llS
Jo,- sections (see C HIONODOXA GLORY OF
lcf1) . /11 rhe sp1i11g,
THE SNO\:V
lmoch ow rhe tuber.
Offsel tlivicle it inro singJe DMSION in autumn 1
offseis, a11cl pot si11gly. Seeos in autumn i
These bulbous
perennials offset very
\VJ,e11 rhe readily lo produce a
5 shoots have
one or two lt'ue
very good display in
a relatively short time.
lctz\'CS, llSlfllUy C,1io,1dox<1 Divide clumps when
a few weel:s fo rl,rsii 1hey become crowded,
lmc,: poi each every 3-4 )'Cars, after the leaves have
planl imo J¼in died down (see p.254). Offsets will
(9cm) pois 10 Oower after two years.
grow 0 11. Pfc~cc Chio11odoxa also set seed profusely
ec~ch wber m each year. If left to self-sow, a colony
rhe same dep1h soon takes hold. Alternatively, gather
as before. \Vllter the seeds and sow in tra)•S (see p.256)
in aml label. for flowers in the third year.
B EGON IA - CHLIDANTHUS
the offsets (see />.254) and pot in a very
free-draining mix that is not 100 rich
to avoid overly lush , soft growth. Equal
pans of soil-based pouing mix and
coarse g rit would be suitable, or even
a bed of coarse sand or g round pumice.
Keep dormant offseLS dry, and delay
watering unti l late autumn.
B ULBI LS
For bulbil-producing species, collect the
d ying, brown foliage and tease out the
bulbils. Trea1 as lily bulbils (see p.273).
SEEDS
Sow seeds in pots (see />.256) as soon as
the)' ripen. Keep them dry, bu1 exposed
to cold , over winter. The seeds shou ld
germinate easily in spring, often before
the paren1 bulbs show signs of growth.
C HLIDANTHUS
DIVISION in autumn '
in spring '
Cltlida111ltus fragl'ans is the only species;
it is a tender, bulbous perennial. Offsets
can be divided while dormant (see
p.254) 10 flower in two years. Apply a
1oma10 fertilizer when the new plants
are in active growth .
Gather ripe seeds in autumn and
store for spring sowing (see p.256) ; in
cold climates, winier light is 100 poor
for seedlings. Sow at 55-64°F (13-18°C)
in trays. Keep seedlings barely moist in
the winter, then ireat as offsets. Lift self-
sown seedlings in autumn, pol , and
grow them on in a frost-free situation.
OTHER BULBOUS PLANTS
BELLl:VAUA As for Muscc1ri (see p.274 ) , .
BoNGARDIA Ct-lRY.SOGONUM Sow seeds when
ripe in summer (sec /J.256). Tiny 1ubers
form deep in pot H,
BRIM EURA Divide b ulbs (sec p.254) land
sow ripe seeds in summer (see p.256) l·
BRODIAM Divide corms in hue swnmcr or
au1umn (sec p.254) l· Sow seeds at 55- 6 L°F
()3- 16°() in summer (see p.256) 1.
BULBOCODIUM As for Colchicum (p.264) 1.
C \RDIOCRINUM Sow seeds in deep trays
when ripe in autumn (see /J.25 6). Shoots
appear some time after germination:
seedlings can take seven or more years
lO Oower U . After nowering, bulb dies
but offsets may be divided (sec p.254) ll.
(MAS11ANTHE Sow seeds when ripe at
SS-61 °F ( 13-16°() in summer (see p.256)
:. Divide corms in s pring (sec /J.255 ) : .
:x. CHtONOSCILL\ ,\LLENI Dlvidc bulbs in
summer (see p.254) : .
263
A-Z OF BULBOUS PLANTS

C OLCHICUM A UTUMN CROCUS, M EADO~V SAFFRON C ROCOSMIA

DMSION m httc :,umm<.·r or autumn!
Seeos in ;1ulun111 i
These corm ous pe rennials arc famous
for lhei r show y nowers lhat appear
wi lhoul leaves. Large-n owe red hybrids
very rarely p rod uce a bcucr-nowercd
for m when raised from seeds, so lhey
are besl d ivided . Division every 3-4
years a lso ma intai ns nowering. Alpine
species arc besl grown from seeds.
DIVISION
Clumps or colchicums may be divided
as for bu lb offsets wh ile dormanl in
su,nmcr (see p.254) but wi ll s ta nd
DIVIDING COLCHICUMS IN FLOWER
Lift,, nurwrc dump (curfully. cli!,!ging
1 to c, spack· MadeS depth w pn-scrvf
1!11• rnms. Sl1t1/11· <>ff cxc,·ss snil fmm tlw
bulbs and pull thrm <1pa11. Ckcm !>ff m1y
ckad Ulllttt, (Ill{# the SUcmg OIIICI HmiC!I.
di visio n w hile in nower, when they
are ea sier 10 locate (see below). Remove
the papery tunics. w hic h can inhibit
growth. A rew species, su ch as Colchicwn
psC1rida,is, have undergro und sle ms
(sto lons) a nd s hou ld be lifled with care.
SEEDS
Galhered seeds germinate read ily ir
sown fresh (see p.256) in pots or soil-
based mix. Keep them in a cool, s hady
posit io n wi th some exposu re 10 co ld.
Stored seeds a re not so s uccessru l an d
may 110 1 p roduce seed li ngs until up to
fou r years a f1cr sowing .
Em ich lhf
2 :,c,il with (I
lirtlc bonrmr,d.
compost, or somt
wdl-rc>ued lco/
mold. R£pla111 tl,c
bulbs in sautcrecl,
small g10111,s m
tl,c ,wuc dcp1'1 a~
b,jor,·. Spt1n- ,,.,.
bulbs ubo111 ½in
(l ( Ill ) <lfUII I. fl tlJJ
1l1fm in gcntlv
anti wtHcr llround,
110 1 mi , 1l1e bulhs.
D IVISION m :i.pring or 1.nc
summer i
S EEDS in autumn i
S ECTIONING m ,-.prmg U
The re are n u merous
cu h ivars o r 1hese
corms (syn. Antlwlyza,
Cw,o,m/11 Curtonus). Th ey form
1111M1111<mu11 large cl un1ps. wh ich
are m ore vigo rous and free-n owering ir
d ivided every 3-4 years. Seed-raised
plants arc worthwhile on ly rrom s pecies.
New c ultivars a re cons tantly bei ng
in trodu ced; sectioning provides a wa)'
or bu lki ng u p stocks from a few corms.
New pla nts nower in the following yea r.
DI VISION
Crocosmia reacl il)' rorm congested mats
or corms in "chai ns," with younger
corms developing o n top or older corms.
ConLracti lc roots p u ll the c hai ns deepe r
into the soil. Normally the clumps a re
d ivided into ch ain s a fter nowcri ng (see
below) o r in s pring, bu t ir offsets are kw
DI VIDI NG A MATURE CLUMP

C OLOCASIA TARO C ORYDALIS

DIVISION m ,-.pnng ! D MSION in :rnLUmn!
S ECTIONING in -.pring U
CUTTINGS 111 spring!
Offsets o r these te nde r, evergreen
tuberous perennia ls may be divided
(see p.254) a nd g rown in rich so il o r in
p ots at a minim u m tenlperature o r 70°F
(21°C) a nd hig h humidi ty. Large tu bers
may be sliced in to sections, each with
a g rowi ng bu d; treat as for C,iladium
(sec p. 262). Take basal slcm cuuings
from tubers starting into g ro wth , as for
begon ias (see p.262) , bu t grow on in
hum id heal. (See also Vegetables, p.299.)
OTHER B ULBOUS PLANTS
0J\l\ttll1'A Dh idc lubcrs in spring!.
1
Sow seeds m sprmg a, 55-64°F ( I 3- I 8°C)
(sec p.2.56) , .
CRINUM Divide in spring (sec J>.254) u.
Sow in spring al 7D°F (2 1°C) (sc-r p.256) ,.
c, PEI,,, Di"iclc bulhs and bulbils w hen
clor111a111 (see p.254) , . Sow ripe seeds (see
p.2.56) al ~5-55°F (7- 13°C) l-
C1 R1A~111L, Divide evergreen bulbs (ser
p.2.54) in spring, usually ar1cr Oowcring l-
5-0w seeds w hen ripe (sec p.2.56) l,
Seeos 111 summer U
The most com1n only g rown o f the
tuberous perennials in this genus
(syn. Pscudofuma.-ia) are Co,ydalis CC1va
(S)•n. C. bulbosa) and C. solida (syn .
C. ha lleri). Their tubers "split " readily \Vhtn die falia~t drcs down ll/re, flowering.
in to two w hen ma ture; lirl and d ivide 1 Jifr <1mmurc clump (11crc of Crocosmia
them as for bulbo us offsets (see p.254) 111a:,onioru111). Di~ tU k<1St I2i11 (30cm) dc>h'n
to nowcr the nex t )'Car. You may need w <n·oia damaging rhr conns or rams.
to use a k nife. Take care to no lc the
growing points, w h ich a re not o bvious.
Species with large tu bers, s uch as the
Leonticoidus group, rarely o ffset a nd
a rc besl ra ised fro m seeds (see p.256).
Vigilan ce is need ed to ga1her ripe seeds
before 1hcy are s h ed (see below). Sow
immediately or store ror spring sowing ,
to n ower in two years. Germin ation may
be erratic. Take care 10 pot seed ling
b u lbs with g ro wing points uppermost.
SEEDPODS
Ripe l'"'h often sray
green ond sh('d seeds Tcose the cl1<cins of <onus aporr. Cleon off
1111id1ly. Nang stems of
closrtl pods in a paper
3 <111y tkcul or disr<1scd matte,· <mcl old strms.
Con11s may l>t• 1/.-2in ( I - 5cm) in diamcre,: Por
l><1g to gmh.-r the blach smaller corms in soilless ,,oui11~ mix a, 11,r
:,crtls as 11,c pads splil open. sm11c tlcplh as bc/cmy, I<> bull: UfJ for a wwr.

264
 COLCHICUM - CYRTANTHUS

or rare, the chains may be split into
individual corms. Stock plants may be
planted shallowly 10 obtain quantities
of corms for division (see p.255) .
Some Crocosmia, such as C. 'Lucifer'
or '.)ackanapes', produce underground
stems (s1olons) from buds on the corms;
new plants 1hen form on the ends or the
stolons. v\lhen dividing 1hese from 1he
parent plant, retain any ponion of s1olon
with good fibrous roots with each offset.
SEEDS
Sow the large seeds as soon as they arc
ripe in soil-based polling mix (sec p.256).
Cuhivars sometimes self-sow: grow
the seedlings apart to preserve the 1rue
cultivar strain. Crocos,nias make good
subjects for h)'bridizing (see p.21).
SECTIONING
Before new growth appears, corms of
cultivars may be cut into sections, as for
begonias (see p.262). Pot them or line
them out in a nursery bed to grow on.
CROCUS
DIVISION in lalc .:,ummcr !
SEEDS in 1.nr summer!
Both spring- and autumn-nowering
forms of these co rmous perennials
can be divided in late summer. Species
may also be raised from seeds. Crocus
tommasinianus self-sows readily and
nowers best in congcs1cd clumps; divide
it onl)• when necessary. Alpine species,
s uch as C. gargaricus, must be kept
watered while dormant . New plants
take 2-3 years 10 nower.
Cnocus SEED C,ll'SULES
DIVISION A~ dw seeds rfpcn, ntch ~wed Cllpsulc gr{l{lualfy
Crocuses generall)' form small corms t·mogcs from l>dow soil ln1rl cu the base of l11c
around the parent; in bad cond i1ions, _flowering srcm. Rt'rno,·r it IJcfon.: it splits open,
1he corn, produces many till)' cormels ll1c11 d,y fu a pap£·, lx,g u, gather du- Sfe,ls.
and no nowers. Some (C. nudijlon,s,
C. scharojanii) form connels on 1hc ends SEEDS
of underground steins, or stolons; take A good rate of gennination is possible
care the cormels do not fall out or the with fresh seeds. Sow the large seeds in
pol. ur1 and divide corms (sec p.255) tra)•S (see p.256). Keep the seedlings well
and grow on in pots or plant directly in watered throughou1 the )'Car; plant oul
the garden. Plant stock bulbs shallowly after 1wo years. Self-sown seedlings can
lo promote con11el formation (see p.255). be left to grow on in siw.

OF CROCOSMIA
' .
Ca,~fully 11111/ lht 1i#11ly 111<111ecl dump
2 upan to loosen 1hr dwins of corms. If
1he rhm11> is ""rv nmgcsted, ,,uJI ir at>art wi1l1
lu,cl1-w-bacl1 forl1s.
CYCLAMEN
SEEOS from nudsummcr to
hue wimcr 1
SECTIONING in la1e ~umnier U,
Some of these tuberous
perennials, such as
Cyclamen co11m , are
rather hardy, while
others are lender,
such as C. persicwn.
Seeds arc the on ly reliable method of
producing new plants and a 101 cheape r
than buying quantities of tubers. Seed-
raised Fl C. persicum hybrids can nower
in as liule as eight months. Sectioning
is generally less successful but may be
the only method available 10 the gardener
of increasing stock of rare or named
cyclamens. Vigorous garden plants arc
bes1 left undisturbed.
SEEDS
Cyclamen seeds are slow 10 ripen.
Those of summer- and aulumn-
nowcring species, such as C. hederifolium
(syn . C. 11eopolit<11111111), ripen the
following summer. In most cases, the
(see p.256). Water, allow to drain, then
seal the pots in clear plastic bags. Keep
al a minimum temperature of 61°F
(16°C) , in a lightly shaded place.
Remove the bags once germination
occurs. Transplant the seedlings as
soon as they are large enough to handle.
Alternatively, if the seed lings are 1101
crowded , leave them for a year and pol
the tubers singl)' when dormant (this
option is not for C. persicum hybrids).
SECTIONING
The tubers of a few species, notably
C. trochop1era11tlwm (syn. C. alpi1111m) ,
have numerous gro,ving points on the
top of the tubers. Lift 1he tubers when
dormant and cul them into sections , as
for Caladium (see p.262).
•
••
J
.,.
1-H •

stems that bear the seed capsules coi l

. Prepare a plm11i11g site with plcttry of wclt-
4 roue<I ol'g<mic Rtpltmt lm~er
m«Ut'r. 1l1c
chains of corms at tlh' same depth ns before,
lm1 a1 least Ji11 (8011 ) deep a11<1 abou1 Ji11 (8cm )
a,xrr1. \Vme, 1l1em in tho,ouKhly and ltrbtl.
down, pulling the capsules LO ground
level. (C. persicum docs 1101 coil.)
A sticky coating, which may be pale
brown, darkening with age, auracts ants,
which then quickly dis1ribu1c the seeds.
Cyclamen seeds are best sown fresh
(see rig/11) . Sow immediate ly after CYCI.AMEN $1:EDS
soaking: light at this stage sends seeds Gaihcr seed C(IJ)S11les as ll1<y bcgi11 10 spli1 (sec
into a second dormancy that is difficult inset). Shal:c 011111,e seeds. So<1l1 for J 2 Jwurs
10 break. Sow the large seeds in a mix or in warm wmer with a Huft dishwasl1i11g li<fUicl
equal pans seed soil mix and sharp gri1 to sof1en the scccl coms and dissolve die mucus.

265
A-Z OF BULBOUS PLANTS

D AHLIA BASAL STEM CUTTINGS OF DAHLIAS

D M~ON m spring 1
Seeos in earl)' spring J
C UTTINGS in hue winier or
~priog I

There arc thousands of

garden h)'brids of these
tuberous perennials;
D<,1,lia few species are grown.
·conwa)'° Dahlias are ver)' fros1-
sensi1ive; in cold climates, the)' are lifted
after the first frost, stored at a minilnum
of 37°F (3°C), then planted or propagated
in spring. Make su re that the stored
tubers are cleaned of all so il and are
just barcl)' 1nois1; otherwise, fungal
infections ma)' set in.
Clumps of tubers arc easil)' d ivided
but, for a greater quantil)' or plants,
may be increased by cuuings. Some
bedding dahlias ma)' be raised from
seeds. New plants normally flower
in the same )'Car.
DIVISION
Dig up a clump of tubers before spring
growth commences, o r bring them out
of storage. Divide them into sections
using a clean, sha rp knife , and make
sure that each division has al least one
strong, health)' dormant bud ("eye'·) and
one tuber. Dust all the cut surfaces with
fungicide. Plant the divisions 4-6in
00-15cm) deep in thei r flowering
positions immediately 10 grow on.
lu late winter. start some clahlic1 rubc, s
1 into emly growil1. lnscl'l them int(, a box of
soH mix, leaving the tO/JS of the tubers e~posed.
Keel' thl'm moist in a lightly sluulrd position "'
" mi11irnuu1 rcmpcrarurc of 5-l"F ( I 2°C).
SEEDS
Sow seeds (see p.256) and keep at a
minimum 61 °F ( 16°C) at all times
for rapid germination. Transplant the
seedlings s ingl)' into pots and plan t
outdoors when nighuime 1cmpcra1urcs
are 54°F ( l 2°C) o r above.
Dahlias are caS)' to hybridize (see
/J.2/), but the seedlings will vary wild ly;
many wi ll be discarded in the auem pl
to produce a worthwhile form.
CUTT INGS
Basal stem cuttings (see above) can be
taken under cover in late winter from
tubers forced into growth. Take new
shoots wi th a piece of tuber at the base
of the stem, then discard the tuber.
\\/hen die new shoots an• abmu 10cm (-fin)
2 utll, cut rhcm 0111 of ll,c rube,, rct<1itt111g a
small piece of 111bn· 011 c<1ch. li·ini tlw kt1vcs
Jn,m llu: bast· oj c<1ch cuui11g (sec inset). Root
5-6 c11rri11gs i11 a 5i11 ( 13011 ) 1101.
Insert the cuuings up to the leaves in
a free-draining soil, such as equal parts
coarse sand and peal (or peat substitute)
and keep humid at about 66°F (19°C).
When the cuttings show signs or
growth, gradually reduce the humidity.
Pot the cuuings singl)' in 3½in (9cm)
pots in soillcss mix . Harden them off
(see p.45) before plan ting out.
Allcrnativel)', a tuber ma)' be used
as a s1ock plant 10 take several series
of cuuings throughout the spring
(see below). After lifting the tuber in
au1u1nn , pot it and keep in a frost-free
place during the winter. Move it into a
position with a minimu,n temperature of
50°F (10°C) in early spring to stimulate
the dorman t buds 10 shoot.

TAKING CUTTINGS FROM DAHLIAS

Grohing tip

Dud, 01 c_y,·,
i,1 lc,if <L~il
Prepare the cuuiugs
2 by r, imming rhe b<1sc
jusr befow a ,wdc and
removing all b111 dte top
Bring ovrnvi111e,ed tubers into growth in fare 1wo leaves. Tc,llc ca,·c to Insert rhe currings singly into cmut1i11rrs
1 winter. Rem()ve the first shoms when they C1re prrscrvc ll,e d()rnuml buds, 3 of soillcss ,vo1i11g 111edi11111. llerc, they "'"
3-4i11 (8- IOcm) w/1 i11 et1.-ly s11ri11g. Cut t1bovc or eyes, i11 1/ie leaf axils insc, red into individ,wl biodegradable pms.
the low(·sr nocle to leave c, bud on the rnbe,: (see inset, right). Finn them in gently, wtHn: and label.

Kee,, tire curtings Keep ilie wber in

4 ar a niiuiuium of
61°F (J6°C) ,1111igl11.
5 a warm and moist
place. The rem<1ining
They should mm in buds sh"uld 11md11ce
2-3 weells. IVhrn " 11ew flush of sl1001s.
1hei1 roots w·e well Scvcn,l bmcl,cs of
developed (see inset), cuttJngs may be
por rhc cuuings o,: obwi11etl f.-0111 a swcl1
if weather permits, wbtr in this w<1y. The
1,lanr out in rhcir 111bcr will bc11efi t f.-0111
f,11al positio11s. "foliar feed if it is
pla111cd 0111.

266

DIERAMA ANGELS FISNING
ROD, WANDFLOWER
D1v1S10N m c.nly spring or l;uc summer,
Seeos in autumn 1
These evergreen cormous perennials can
be divided bul resent the disturbance, so
il is best to leave a plant unlil it is really
congested. They must not be allowed to
dry oul when dormanl in spring.
The corms form in chains, as wilh
Crocosmia (see p.264) , and should be
divided in the same way, wilh care ,
after Oowering. Replant the cha ins 4in
( 10cm) deep. They wil l be in the
ground for some time, so make sure
lhat it is well prepared and fenilized.
Divisions take 1-2 years lO Oower
frccl)' again.
Sow seeds (see p.256) when ripe.
Transplan t the seedlings singly, grow on
in a frosl-free place, and planl oul lhe
following spring to Oower in 2-3 years.
ERANTHIS WINTER ACONITE
D IVISION m ,pring 1
S EEDS in 1:uc -.pnng !
S ECTIONING in spring U
These clump- forming
perennials have knobby
tubers. Many of the dry
tubers sold in autumn
fam11l1is hyr»wli.s fail to come into growth
in spring. Damp-packed
tubers will produce better plan ts.
Dividing lubers in lhe green (that is,
immediately afler Oowering in spring and
before lhe leaves die down) seems harsh,
but il is successful. Treal lhe offsets as
for Galanthus (see p.269). You may need
10 cut the lubers apan wilh a knife.
They will Oower in lhe following year.
Seeds ripen very quickly in spring
and are soon scaue red lO form a colon y.
lf lefl lo itself, lhe common winter
aconite, Ermtthis hyemalis , wi ll seed
prodigious!)' lo form large colonies. H
al lowing planls lO self-sow in grass, do
nol clear away the firsl few mo,vings,
which may be full of seeds. To grow lhe
planl elsewhere, gather lhe b rown seeds
as soon as the pods open. They need
sowing immediately outdoors or in a
pan (see p.256), 10 Oower in 2-3 years.
Sterile hybrids , such as E. ftyemalis
Tubergenii Grou p 'Guinea Gold', may be
sectioned if lhere are nol many offsels.
Treal tubers as for Caladium (see />.262).
On-tER BULBOUS PLANTS
(syn. l..h'evoonia) Divide
D1C1-tt-LO~Tl·MMA
corms in late summer (see p.254) i. Sow
seeds at 55-61°F ( 13- 16°C) when ripe
(see p.256) 1-
ERYTHRONIUM D OG'S-TOOTH VIOLET, T ROUT LILY
DIVISION in :.tulumn U,
Seeos in auwmn I
The bulbs of lhese clu,np-forming
perennia ls look like long 1eelh. They do
nol tolerate being disturbed or drying
oul, so seeds arc the besl method of
increase. E1ytltro11ium de11s-ca11is self-
sows in favorable condi lions. Mature
clumps may be divided if necessary.
Chipping has been recommended,
especially for species thal offset very
slowl)', bul il is nol very practical
because lhe tubers are so lhin and lhe
basal plates so small.
DIVISION
Choose a cool, damp day lo d ivide the
bulbs (see right) to ensure they do not
dry out. Take care 10 nole lhe posilion
of lhe growing points, which are nol
always conspicuous. Replant lhe bulbs
immedialely or insen in deep pots;
conlraclile roots will draw the bulbs
down into lhe soil mix. If lhey are oul of
the ground for an>' time, keep lhe bu lbs
in a plasliC bag containing 1nois1 perlile
o r peat. Divided bulbs should flower in
the following year.
Forms o f E. mnericanu111 are best
planled individually because lhey
a rc very quick lo spread by means
of underground stems (stolons).
TRANSPLANTING ERYTHRONJUM SEEDLING BULBS
Grow on seedli11g bull>s in the s<m1r por for
1 two or rhrcc years. T11t11 , when d1cy mi-
dormmH, carefully slide ow ,he emin' mass
of soil mL, and bulbs from the pol.
E UCHARIS
0 MSION in spring'
Seeos in ~\utumn U
ln warm climales, these tender bulbous
perennials are evergreen and can be
grown outdoors. Otherwise, a humid,
warm greenhouse or house, and a large
pol of soi l-based potting mix , en riched
by a wcekl)' liquid feed, must be ilS
home. Most are increased by division
in cold climates because seeds are on ly
occasionally produced.
D AHLIA - EUCHARIS
D1v11>1NG E1n· r11RONIUM CLU~trs
The long. tl1i11 bulbs ofEry1hromumsfon11
congested clumps. Lifi them carcfutfy and lease
out dusrns of bulbs from 1l1f dump. Enrich the
soil wirh wdl-rorrcd organic mauc,. Rtplcml the
bulbs <II the ~crnw deplh, but 2cm {¼in) crptrrt.
SEEDS
Galher the seeds from the pods when
ripe and sow the seeds (see /J.256) in
pols of moisl and rich seed soil mix
(see p.34). The seedling bulbs grow
quile slowly. They are besl planted out
as a potful (see below) when two )•ears
o ld in order lO avoid dislurbing their
rools through repeated polling, and to
avoid planting lhem upside down (their
growing poinls are nol obvious). They
should Oower two years laler.
/>J(llu d1t.' nwss of bulbs into <~ prepared be,I
2 of moist, acidic soil, so 1hm rhe top of rhe
mass ism lrllSl Jin (2.5cm) below rhe swfacc
and ccmnor clry 0111. L<~bcl cruel wme,:
Detach lhe offsels (see p.254), pol
lhem individually, and grow on a t 59°F
( 15°C). Remove any nower slcms thal
fonn unlil lhc bu lbs reach ful l size, wilh
a d iameler or aboul 3in (8cm). Afler lwo
years, the offsets should Oower.
Gal her ripe seeds and surface sow
al once in pots (see p.256). Germ inale
lhem al 77°F (25°C) with high humidity.
Transplant seedling bulbs in autumn .
They shou ld Oower after 3-4 years.
267
A-2 OF BULBO US PLA NTS

EUCOMIS PINEAPPLE FLO\VER, PINEAPPLE LILY G AGEA

DlvlSION in :n11um11 or :,pnng Ji DrviSION m ::1utumn ,
SEEDS in aununn Jiil
winter before planting out in spring, or B UL8lLS in autumn !
divide in spring. They flower after three Seeos in autumn!
The large bulbs of these 10 five years.
unique-looking plants Sow the fleshy seeds (see p.254) as Many of these bulbous pere nnials
are best not divided soon as thC)' ripen in soi lless seed mix at produce s mall offsets in pro fusion that
until the)' are obvious!)' 61 °F ( L6°C). The seedlings grow rapidl)• can easily be de tac hed and grown on
congested. Divide any and need regular pouing 10 avoid (see p.254). They produce flowering
Eucomh offsets (see p.254) and c hecking their growth. Protect fro m low plants in two years.
bicofor keep frost-free over te mpe ratures for the first two years. Some species, such as Cagea fis111losa ,
sometimes produce bulbils, ins tead of
flowers, which fall 10 the ground in
fREESIA summer. Others, such as C. villosCI, form
bulbils in the axils or the basal leaves.
DIVISION 111 .1u1umn ! seed coats before sowi ng in containers
SEEDS in autumn! Pick off the bulbils as they turn brown
(see p.256). For optimum germination, or collect them from the g round. Treat
Numerous hybrids have been selected keep them dark and provide bo uo m them as lily bulbils (see />.273) for
from the species o f these cormous heat (see p.41) of 55-64°F (13-18°C). flowe rs in 2-3 years.
pe rennials. They resent being disturbed Once the seedlings emerge, which can The seeds are quite small but are
while in full growth. When the foliage take one or many months, pot 1he1n up easi ly collected and sown (see p.254).
dies d own, lift or repot mature corms individ ually and grow on at a minimum Seedling bulbs take 3-4 )'Cars 10 flower.
and divide as for bulb offsets (see />.254). of 4 1°F (5°C) 10 flower within the year. Some, such as C. lutea and villosa,
Gather seeds when ripe and soak Seed ling corms do not thrive if allowed sel f-sow in favorable conditions and
them in warm water for 24 hours until 10 dry out or if exposed 10 temperatures make good su bjects for naturali zing
the seeds a re swollen to softe n the hard much above 50°F (10°C). in the gard en.

FRITILLARIA FRITILLARY
Dtvl$10N m aUlunm
Seeos m autun111 1
1 SCALING /\ND CH IPPING
Seal)' bulbs such as F. ca111scltC11ce11sis
tmgt·dup
di\'itk,I HIIO '" " I
SCAl.lNG ANO CHIPPING in l:.ue
:,um mer U lend themselves to scaling (see p.258) to
SCOOPING ANO SCORING 111 form new bulblets. The scales may also \.... ,.:/,
la1c :,ummc:r or cad)'
au1umnU
be chipped (see right and p.259) for a
larger nu,nber o r bu lble1s. Chipping is
useful for rare bulbs where c ross-
r: Hcllw-s of
f,i1i/la1w
md,·<1xri,
Man)' fritillaries are
quite hardy, except for
pollination is impossible and no seeds
arc forthcoming. The number of scales
~ '"'"" bulb I
a few Californian species that wil l suffer o r chips d epe nds on the size of the bulb. • •
damage below 41°F (-5°C). The bulbs
var)' great!)' in size, fro m Lhe diminuLive SCOOPING AND SCORING .J'.__ Each dii/J rcwins
Fritillaria minima LO the very large Lift large bulbs when they are do nnant, ,,i1·u of mu.al plat~
F. imperia lis. Propagatio n depends o n the dean off any soil or d ead mate rial, and C111PPING FRITllLARl~S
size and l)'pe of bulb. F. camsclta1.ce11sis check that each is not damaged or fritill;.ria bulbs ce111 be cut inw wedgi'S, tJr chips.
and Himalayan and Chinese species diseased. Scoop 1he1n as for hyacinths Cur lwie,; O/X:'/l~!<)calctl butl,s (hen.· fritillaria
need lO be watered during dormancy. (see p.2 71) or sco re as shown below lo impcri:,lisJ into eigl1t or so <hips, and rhcu
New plants flower afte r three years. encourage formation of bulblets. Treat divide arch d 1ip iu 1wo by cuuiu~ llirough du·
the bulblets thereafter in the same way bw,nl plau bclwt•cn tht· scales. S11ap very s1111111
DIVISION as for offsets (see above). bulbs such as F. acmopc1ala (see insc1) i11 two.
Offsets var)' greatly in size: some are
true offsets, as with F. pyre11aica, and SCORING LARGE FRITILLARY BULBS
may be replanted direct after division
(see p.254). Other species, for exa mple Stcrili~e bltul1>to Scorecl ~ide
F. acmopelala, F. crassifolia, F. p11dicC1, a nd rr,fun· risk of ro1 ';:.-,;;;;,;;:::- upw"r"
F. recurva, have tiny offsets, produced in
abundance and best d escribed as "rice."
These are best grown on in containers
as for cormels (see p.255) .
SEEDS
---------------
Some species self-seed reaclil)' and co me
true 10 type. Gather the papery winged
seeds when ripe, and sow in the usual
way (sec p.254). They need exposure 10 Hold 1hr """' (here of Fri1illaria impcrialis) Prcplu-c a I'°' saucer or seed troy wirlt a ¼in
fluctuating temperatures to germinate:
keep them at 28°F (-2°C) at nigh t and
1 upside down. \Vith a sc,dpel, malle two cuts 2 (2cm) layer of mois1, co,irse sa11cl. Res, rite
across 11,c basal plmc a11cl lxlSC. Make 1he cuts bulb 011 1/ie sane/. label. Keep in " warn,. d1y
50°F (10°C) by day. Grow the m on in 11,c same clqJIII as the basal fJlate a11c/ lll rigll1 place. 8"/blets shoulc/ form along the cws
co ntainers for two years before planting. t1ngles to each other. Dust wilh fungicide. in 8-10 wcchs.

268
 E UCOMIS - H ABRANTHUS

G ALANTHUS SNOWDROP
DIVISION in Sj)liog'
SEEOS in summer,
TWIN·SCAI.ING in summer u
CHIPPING in e.trl)' summer u
After a few years, these bulbs form
congested clumps, so division is
advisable to improve vigor. Seeds are
produced on ly in mild weather that
favors pol linating bees; s01ne species
self-sow freely in favorable conditions. D1VJOING SNOWDROPS "IN TIIE G REEN" T\VIN·SCALINC SNO\VOROPS
Forms and culti vars are numerous and Lift dumps of snowdrops, ta,ii11g care not w One bull.1 may yidcl up w J2 twin •scalcs. After
often in shon supply; large numbers <lamage rhe roms. cruel pull the clumps <1parr. bu/blcrsfon11 (<1bour /2 wcel,s). tll(')' moy be
of new bu lbs may be obtained by twin- Rcplcmt sinRk bulbs inw prcpcffcd soil tH dtt• rooted (see insc.1) mut O\'Cnvi111crc<I in a deep
scaling. Snowdrops also respond very same tlel'th llS bcfm'c. Finn. labcJ, anti w(HCI' in. rrny in soiflrss porti11g mix bcJore plmHing.
well to ch ipping; this produces fewer
new plants than twin-scaling but results The common snowdrop, G. nivalis, can T\VIN-SCALING AND CH IPPING
in nowering plants more quickl)'. Water be naturalized in woodland in this way. Divide the bulbs into pairs of scales (see
the bulbs even when dormant. New p.259 and above) .The bulbs can also be
plants nower after th ree years. SEEDS cut into about eight "ch ips" (see p.259).
To ensure germ inati on, gather the seeds New bulblets are best grown on in a
01v1s10N as the capsules split open. They should lightly shaded nurser)' bed o r organ ic soil
Lift and divide clumps after flowering be sown immediately (see />.256) 10 outdoors, at a minimum of 28°F (-2°C).
but while the leaves are st ill in growth avoid the seeds becoming dormant and AlternaLively, grow on the bulblets in
or "i n the green" (see above). These less ready to germ inate. Double-nowered deep seed trays or pots in a frost-free
divisions establish more successfully. snowdrops do not set seeds. place for a year and then plant out.

GLADIOLUS
D IVISION in autumn '
SEEDS in latt summer ,
SECTIONING i n ~ummcr U
On ly a few species of these cormous
perennials arc grown , but there are
thousands of garden hybrids. Gladioli
very readi ly produce cormels for
division. Species can also be increased
b)' seeds and hybridize (see p.21 ) readily.
Any hybrid may be sect ioned 10 preserve
the form. New plants should nowcr in
the second year.
DIVISION
-------------
Detach cormcls rrom garden plants
once the nowering stems have died
back. AlternaLivel)', plant stock cornls
shallowly in a nursery bed to obtain
greater nu,nbers of
cormels (see below).
The corm leis may be
CORMELS FROM STOCK PLANTS
stored indoors over winter, lined ou t in
a nursery bed in spring, and grown on
for a )'ear before planting.
SEEDS
Gather the seeds and sow rresh (see
p.256) in deep containers. Keep the
seedlings in growth in the first winter b)'
maintaining a minimum temperature of
59°F (15°C). Allow the young corms 10
die back in the following autumn , store
them dry and frost-free overwinter, and
plant them out in the rollowing spring.
SECTIONING
Lift dormant corms and cut them into
sections, as for Caladium (see p.262).
Gladioli are susceptible 10 molds and
rots, so always treat the cut surfaces
with fungicide. Grow on the sections
as ror cormels (see above).
GLORIOSA
D IVISION in s1>ring'
SEEDS in earl>· ~pring tli
Th is single species,
Gloriosa superba, has
fingerlike tubers,
which are produced in
abundance. All forms
Glorio~c, supt'r·l}c, are tender. Rooted
·Roth,childiana' tubers flower in two
)'Cars, seed-raised plants in 3-4 )•ears.
Take ca re when handling the tubers,
because the)' can irritate the skin . The
tubers muhiply quickly. Divide them as
for bulbous offsets just before growth
starts (sec p.254). Replant the tubers just
below the surface of the soi l o r repot in
soil-based mix with added g rit. Grow on
in frost-rree conditions.
Sow in con tainers (sec p.256) in seed
soil mix combined with an eq ual pan of
sharp sand , and provide bottom heat (see
p.41) of 66-75°F (J 9-24°C). Germination
should occur in a rew weeks.

Cur .s1rnigJu
(l(r(}SS :)ft'lll
')
j/
11 l'lmu corms
shallowly in
(! llltrSt''J' bc<I in O THER BULBOUS PLANTS
J spring (see p.255). F1:RRARIA Divide corms in aulUmn {sec
• In ~wnmcr, n~nwve p.255) ~- Sow seeds (see ,,.256) in autumn
rhc flower spillfs -~ al -13-54°F {(:,- I 2°C) in bright light u.
before rhcy fade 011d ;I/'' Co,mrl,; GAi TONIA Divide offsets (sec p.251) in
wc,ste n1c,gy on sce<I
production.
"
' l
'
Jc1rn1 at lm.H' aulum n when dormant,. Sow seeds when
ripe (sec />.256) in summer: keep fros t-free
Cur off tacl1
'
In mctunm, lift the stock for 1wo years and water when clorma111 , .
flower spil:c jus1
above the lec,vcs. This
2 corms. Genr/y dewch 111/ rhe
connds from each corm. Clean
HABRANrrrus Divide the few offsets (sec
p.254) when dormant 1. Sow seeds as soon
rncoio·llgcs die corms w cuul swre rhc com1rls O\'cr wiiuc,; as ripe (see p.256) at 61 °F ( 16°C).
produce more cormds. d1c11 fiue them out w gmw mi.

269
A-Z OF BULBOUS PLANTS
H AEMANTHUS BLOOD LILY
0M5'0N 111 early :i.pnng
SEEDS 11'1 :-.pr-ing I
Offsets are produced
slowly, so these Lender
bulbs can be divided
onl)' every few years.
Seed-raised plants
Hctrmt111thus nower in 3-5 years,
<tJnml'u\ offsets in two years.
Keep evergreen bulbs just moist and
deciduous species dry when dormant.
DIVISION
Sideshoots sometimes appear before
offsets are rully formed, but they can be
divided in the second year. Just as chey
start into growth , uncover the offsets
and Lease away from the parent bulb.
Pot singly in soilless mix wich their
necks just above the surface; use deep
pots Lo allow che large roots room 10
grow. Keep in the pots until flowering;
blood lilies flower besc when poibound.
SEEDS
Extract the large seeds rrom the fleshy
fruits and sow (see p.256) in sandy
soil mix . Provide 6l-64°F ( 16-18°C)
bouom heat ( see /J.'I I). Water and feed
the seedlings well 10 keep them in leaf
for as long as possible and build up che
bulb. When the leaves die, scop watering
and keep dry and frost-free over winter.
H IPPEASTRUM AMARYLLIS
01v1s10N m hue wimer or
in earl) ,;pring '*
S EEDS in muumn 1
CHIPP1NG in summer 1
The 60 or so species
of chese mainly tender
bulbs ma)' be raised
Hif'l'""strnm from seeds, but the
cuhirnr many hybrids must
be divided Lo obtain 1rue-LO·L)•pe plants.
New planes flower in 2-3 years.
DIVISION
Lift the plants before the)• come into
accive growth and pull awa)' large
offsets (see p.254). Leave smaller ones
anached 10 the parent bulb Lo bulk up
uncil the following year. Pot che offsets
individually in rich soilless mix, wacer
thoroughly, and grow on al a 1ninin1um
1ernpera1ure of 55°F (13°C). The)' need
good light Lo grow on, otherwise the
stems become elongated. \,Ya ter freely
while in growth , but keep chem dr)'
and fros1-rree when dormant.
SEEDS
Sow the seeds when ripe (see above
right) in containers (see p.256) and
keep at a ntinimum temperature of 6 l °F
270
H YACINTHOIDES
l BLUEBELL
0MSION in mm11nn !
Seeos in autumn !
In very favorable conditions, these
bulbous perennials (syn. Endymion)
seed themselves prodigiously. They are
therefore easy 10 nacuralize, but they
can also become invasive. The storage
organs are completel)' replaced annually;
the husk of the old bulb is found beneath
the new one. New plants should flower
in the following year.
DtVISION
Large clumps are often locaced at a
considerable depth in the soi l, so cake
care 1101 LO sever the stems when lifting
a clump for division (see p.254). Once
lifted , the numerous bulbs are easily
separated. Replant them immediace l)•,
spaced singly 2in (5cm) apart, 10 cover
a large area.
SEEDS
Gather the seeds when ripe, then sow
immediately. The)' arc best sown in large
quantities in drills in a seedbed as for
cormels (see p.255) and transplanted
into their flowering positions two years
later while the)' are dormant. Selr-sown
seedlings can be !ere 10 grow on in siru.
The contraccile roots soon pull the bulbs
well below the surface.
R1pr set·<l.\ wt·
bl,1ck h1 colm
HIPPEASTRUM SEEDHEAD
The sccclltc"cl fon11s rclmively quicl1ly after rite
flawcr flllles. Ct>Jleci c111d sow the seeds as soon
11s they a,~ 1i/lC. bcfo,c they ore dis11ersrc/.
(16°C) for rapid germination. Pot the
seedl ing bulbs,1vhe11 their leaves are
5-6in (l3-15cm) long and g row on as
for offseLS (see p .255). Encourage them
10 rest in winter b)' watering less.
CHIPPING
The large bulbs are an ideal shape for
chipping (see p.259) and can be cut
into as many as 16 chips.
HYACINTHUS HYACINTH
DMSION 111 autumn 1
TWIN-SCALING ANO CHIPPING Ill late :,.ttmmcr u
S COOPING ANO SCORING II) lau: ::,ummcr u
On ly culcivars of this bulbous perennial,
Hyaci11Ll111s olientalis, are commonly
grown. They must all be increased
vege1a1ively because their color and
vigor is the resuh of years or selection.
The easiesc wa)' is by division of offsets.
However, hyacinths reproduce slowly,
so various methods of cuuing the bulbs
may be used if no offsets are available.
The rate or success depends on keeping
the bulbs free from rot. H)'acinths arc
much hardier in the ground than in
containers. New plants flower in two
LO three years.
DI VISION
Lift and divide offsets when the fo liage
has died down. Dig down deeply around
che clump, as for Roscoea (sec p.276) ,
because the offsets ohen lie deep in the
soil. Throw the cleaned offsets onto the
ground and replant where chey land for
a natural grouping. Allow the 1opgrow1h
Lo die away naturally. \.Yater and reed the
offsets regularly while the)' remain in
active growth.
TWIN-SCALING AND CH I PP ING
In late summer, slice large bulbs
------
into 16 sections. They can be twin-
scaled or chipped (see p.259). Unlike
other ch ipped bulbs, h)•acinth chips do
not rot away very readily after the new
bulblcts form. When the bulblets have
developed, therefore, pot che chips
singly, placing them horizontally instead
or vertically in the soil mix (sec below),
so 1ha1 the old scales are complecel)'
buried. Th is will encourage 1hem 10 rot
away more quickly.
(Julbleb bt'g11111111g
Iw ,oo,
'
,- <
•
•
'
Thret pe1rts />Ctlt
10 011e p,irt sand
POTTING A II VACINTH C HIP
Once /J11lblc1s fon11. 11lac,· tire chip hori:wnrt1Hy
i11 a half pot or I"'" ofJrec-clrt1i11i11g soil mix.
C,wrr wi1l1 ¼i11 (1cm) of mix mu/ ¼i11 (I cm) of
fine g1i1 to e11s11re 1he chi/I rots off. Grow 011 for
a yccu· l>rfon' H?/JOtring or planting out.

SCOOPING AND SCORING
---------
These methods involve wounding the
basal plates. With the l'irst, most of the
basal plate is scoo ped o ut (see below).
Alternatively, make deep cuts in the
basal plate, as for fritillaries (see p.268).
\.Vhen bulblets form, detach 10 grow o n,
o r pot the bulb upside down in g rill}'
soil mix, with the bulblets just buried.
Affer a year, detach and grow them on.
SCOOPING HYACINTHS
Dhc ""' ,rnop<·d·
Old ( C'tlh'I
Scoop 0 111 ll1e cc,w-r of tl11..· bt1s<1I plmc
1 of t·ach donnmu bulb, using <1 sterilized.
slwrpcned rcos1>0011 o, sc<1lpd. Lca\'c' the outer
rim of c11ch Jxi,al plm, intact. Dip the c111
su1fc1ccs in f ungicicle w reduce die risl: of rot.
FiU c1 trny or sm,ccr with moisr, coc1rse
2 sm1d. Set tl,e prepared bulbs, basal plaies
up1>cn11ost. i11w rhc smul. Keep them in t1 warm.
d<1t'li place, mid water tl1e sand oac1sio11ally w
hee-1' it cl<m1p.
811ll,le1
After 1liree 111,m1hs, bu/biers should fom, 011
3 the scooped bas,,/ 11la1c. \Vl1<11 they ,,,.c large
enough ro hcm,He, ckwch w,d set rhcm in rows
;u a tray of soillcss rooting medium. Cover witl1
Jin (2.5cm) of medium and treat as seeds.
H YPOXIS STARFLO\VER
0 1v1.stON in aulumn ,
S EEOS in ;u1tumn or spring
These connous
perennials produce new
corms annually, so they
lend themselves to
division. Seeds are
Hyl'oxis useful if you require
cm,;usrifoffo larger quantities of
plants for a woodland seuing. New
planLS should no wer after three years.
Lift offset corms (see p.254). Replant
the co rms singly in free-draining soil o r
pot them in equal parts coarse sand and
soilless polling mix . If necessary, protect
them from late spring frosts.
Gather seeds just as they begi n to
turn black in cup-shaped capsules; cut
off the entire stalk as for Als1roemeria
(see p.260). Sow seeds (see p .256) at a
minimum of 50°F (lO"C) to ensure
germination. Seeds may be sto red at
41°F (5°C) over winter if needed. If
auem pting to transplant sel f-sown
seed lings, take care no t to mistake
them for grass.
l PHEION
01V1S10N io a ulumn Ji
SEEDS in :,umrncr o r spring~
lpheion 1111iflon1111 and
its cuhivars arc the
most com mon!)'
cultivated of these
bulbo us perennials.
lphr,on u11iflonun They are prolific,
·w;slel' Blue· producing masses of
offsets. Some are tiny. Lift after the
foliage has died down to divide (see
p.254). This is the only way 10 produce
cuhivars true to type. New plants shou ld
no wer after l-2 years.
Gather the seeds in summer. Sow the
seeds (see p.256) immediately or in
spring in a sandy seed soil mix.
Container-grown lpheion often self-sow
in plunge beds under cover; the strap-
like, sl ightl)' succulent seedlings are
easil)' iden tified for transplanting.
O THER BULBOUS PLANTS
HfRUtR1' 1A As for Tigritlia (see p.278) 1-
I-ICRMODACT\'LUS TIJBEROSUS (syn. Iris
tulJcmsa) Separate tubers in autumn,
as for Juno irises (sec right) 1-
1 h·,,oNTHEu., As for Muscari (sec p.274) 1.
l·h'Ml:NOCA1 us (S)'ll. lsnicnc) Divide the rew
offsets (see p.254) when dormant U- Seeds
in spring (see p.256) at 66°F (19°C) U,
IXIA Detach tiny cormcls (see p.255) in
autumn 1, Sow seeds (see p.256) in amumn
,md keep frost-free 1-
HA EMA NTHUS - I XIA
I RIS
D IVISION tn aulumn 1
1 SEeos in la1e sununcr 10
amumn,
CHIPPtNG in hue summer U
The bulbous perennials
in this genus fall into
three groups: Juno,
/ri, Reticulata, and Xiphium
""'&"iftw irises. They have many
cultivars, which ca n be propagated only
vegetatively: Juno irises arc chipped,
while Reticulata and Xiphium irises are
best divided. All the species can set seeds,
which co me true. All bulbous irises die
back after nowering and are summer-
dormant. New plants take three )'Cars
to nower. (See "lso Perennials, p.202.)
D1v 1s10N
Reticulata irises form tiny bulblets
around the parent bulb, inside netlike
tunics. This group of irises is prone to
disease, so check the offsets careful ly
(see below). In areas with dry summers,
plant the offsets ou tdoors; in other areas,
po l them (see p.254). If large numbers
of offsets are required, plant stock bu lbs
shallowly as for corms (see p.255).
SEEDS
The large seeds are best gathered and
so,vn (see p.256) as soon as they are
ripe. They should germinate early in
the spring as the parent bulbs no wer.
Some irises, such as I. re1iculaw or
I. winogradowii, form seed capsules at
soil level; treat these as for crocuses
(see p.265). They can be hybrid ized
easily (see p.21 ); when selecting
seedlings, choose the1n for vigor and
form as well as color.
(HIPPING
Juno irises can be increased b)' chipping
(see p.259). Cut the basal plate with
great care lO avoid damaging the ncshy
true roots, which arc only tenuously
attached. A new bulb may also be grown
from a root, if it is cut out together with
a dormant bud on a piece of basal plate.
Dust cut surfaces with fungicide and pot
the root carefully in equal pans coarse
sand and soil-based pouing mix.
Blm:k stre11ks
of i>,h spot
dis.ease
H EALTHY DISEASED
BULB BUI.B
DIVIDING IRISES
Reticulaw ir;scs. such as Iris hisLrio, tll'e
1't1rticuforly prone to dise~ase, so it is iml'Ortant
w discard 1111y bulbs 1h01 sl1ow signs of disease
when dividing <I cl11m11 of olfsc1s.
271
A-Z O F BULBOUS PLA NTS
l XIOLIRION
DIVISION in trnttunn i
Seeos in aununn !
The small white bu lbs or these
perennials are read ily increased from
offseLS (see p.254). Seeds, which are
produced in abundance, yield larger
quanti1 ies of p lanLS but are slower to
reach Oowering size, usually in three
years. Gather the seeds as soon as they
ripen and sow i1nmediatel)' (see p.256).
They usuall)' germinate well in 1he
following s pring.
L ACHENALIA CAPE CO\VSLIP
DMSION in latr ,ummcr or
earl>· aulumn 1
BULBILS in hue summer,
Seeos in spring or :-.ummer,
These bulbous
pe rennials are na1ive
lo South Africa. They
l<1dmudia are win ler growing
,iloitlt-~ and , in cold areas.
need excellent light conditions 10 keep
growth co mpact and fol iage markings
attrac1 ive. New planls will o ften flower
in their second year.
Cape cowslips produce nume rous
offsets. Divide them lifter three years
when the foliage dies down (see p.254).
If polled or replanted in a mix of equal
pans soil-based potting m ix and fine
grit, 1hey wil l grow quickly.
So me Cape cowslips, for example
Lachena/ia bulbifera (syn. L. pendula)
produce bulbils (see below).
Gather the fleshy seeds as soon as
they ripen and sow immediately (see
p.256) in free-draining soil m ix. The
pan, once watered , needs to be kept jus t
n1ois1 and al a minimum o r 59°F ( l 5°C)
in bright light 10 ensure a good rate of
germina1ion. Pot the seedlings s ingly
wh en they a re large e nough 10 handle.
Keep them in active growth over winte r
in a bright, frost-free place.
CAPE COWSLI P llULBI LS
Tltc lta,11. ,01111d bulbils (here of Lachenalia
bulbi rcra) form in clusters m 1/oe l><1se of1/,c
ol<l stems. Gm her these 011cc tlie feaves dk
down ,111cl 1rem llS fo r lily lmfbifs (see right).
272
L EUCOCORYNE
DIVISION in summer or :nuumn,
S EED$ m summer,
OffseLS are not free ly produced by these
te nde r bu lbous perennials, so seeds are
a beuer me thod of producing new plants
in quantity. New plains s hould Oower
after 1hree years.
Lift and divide offsets (see p.254)
a l the o nset of dormancy a fter spring
nowering. Replant or repol but keep
them dry and rested unti l the end o r
donnanC)', then water them 10 s tan them
into growth in the late autumn. Keep
1hem in active growth over winter, in
b right light at 50°F (10°C).
Ga1her 1he seeds when ripe and sow
immed iate!)', barely covering 1he seeds
in soi l mix because the)' n eed light to
germinate. Keep seedling bulbs wel l fed
and watered and in growth for as long as
possible. \Vhen they become dormant,
allow the soil mix 10 d ry out.
L EUCOJUM S NO\VFLAKE
DIVISION in l:Hc summer lO earl)' aununn ~
SEEDS m l~H c spring or in la1c aulumn ,
Some of these bulbous perenn ials prefer
a moi st, partly s haded s ite; s maller
forms require s un and well-drained
soil. Th e exact timing or propagation
de pends on whether th e p lan 1 flowers
in summ er to autumn o r in spring.
Lift mature plan LS when the leaves die
do,vn , and divide the offsets (see p.254).
Alpine o r dwarf species may be raised
from seeds. For b est resulLS, sow fresh
seeds (see p.256) in sandy soil m ix;
alternatively, s tore the seeds at 41°F
(5°C) 10 keep I hem viable.
\Vhcther proJJe1gmrtl by division or mist·d fmut
seeds, mos, s11owflalu~s (here Lcucojum vernum
wu: vagncri) should flowe r in 2-J yrm'S.
OTHER BULBOUS PLANTS
L LOYDIATreat as ror Fri1iffmia (see p.268):
keep L serori,w watered throughou1
dormancy 1.
LILIUM LIL\'
DMSION i n earl) spring ur
in aurnmn. ~
BULBILS in la1c ... ummcrI
Seeos in ~autumn 1
SCALING in l:nc summer!
CUTTINGS nl la1c spting or i1\
midsunuucr ~,
L,lium x Except for hybrids of
dt11hc1t1S01Ui Lilium ro,1giflonun and
L. formosa,wm , and a few o ther species,
1he bulbous species and the 1housands
or hybrids are quite hardy. No1 a ll groups
of lilies can be propagated in the sam e
way. The gard en h)•brids can be raised
only vege1a1ivcly, 1he method depending
on 1hc form and group o f the lily, but
care must be taken 10 u se onl)' virus-free
stock. Al l s pecies lilies can be raised
from seeds. ll is slow and requ ires care
but yields vigorous, vi rus-free plants.
Some lilies, su ch as Lifium speciosum , d o
n o1 tolerate lime a nd need 10 be raised
in acidic soil mixes. All lilies need 10 be
ke pt moist 1hrougho ut dormancy.
DIVISION
Some species, notably L. speciosum
in all iLS forms, produce offse1s a t 1he
s ide of 1he large parent bulb tha t reach
flowering size in 2-4 years. De1ach
these in au1umn (see p.254) and g row
on in acid ic soil mix wi1h equal pans
of sharp sand in poLS or n u rsery beds.
L. ca11didu111 no wers best in congested
clum ps, so divide o nly when n ecessary.
Som e lilies, such as L. aura1m11 ,
L. bulbiferum , L. c"'u,dense, L. /m,cifo/iwn
(syn. L. 1igrinwn), L. longiJlonun ,
L. pa1rla/inw11, and L speciosum , produce
rooted bulblcLS, us ual ly below ground
at the base of 1he old Oowe ring s1em .
Lift the bulb while it is dormant in
early s pring lo remove the bulble ts (see
below). Po t the bu lblets and place in
I NCREASING LILI ES FR0~1 BLILBLETS
Uft rllc do, 11umr bull, wul dcwd, !lie bulbli'ls
(sec inset) from the old srcm. Replm,r thr pal'enr
bulb. Prq"'re pans of moist, soif-bt1std JJ"lliug
mix and instrr lht· bulblcts at twice their ow11
dcprh. Co,•,·r with" l<1ya of gri1. 1l1n1 fllbd.
 l XlOL lRl ON - L LOYDlA

COLLECTING AND ROOTING LILY BULBILS

J ROOTING LILY BULBILS IN A TRENCH

Rip£· hulhils comf ,11wry ca.)iJv
1 Jwm 1hr lrnf <L,il,. Sda1 lrrnlrhv,
\igornu~ plmus - bulbils t.lUJ raubjn
<lisrasc. fhrougho111 fcur ,unmu.·,.
pidl lht· bulbrh f,vm 1hr :,tcm:, ct~
!Imm ,1~ thn m,ltmt-'.
fill (I JJCUI H·id1 Ol()ist, :,Oil·bClsrtl
2 1mui11x mt\:. Gcnily pn•ss dw
b11fbils into llu• -.wjan~. Co\rr hith Lif11l1c bulb, 1c1Jii11g ewe w prcsc,vc rhc ,oor,. Mahe" irrnd, 111111
c1 1/.•i11 (lc,n) IC1vt1 of cclm:,f ~cmd m )l011cs <nvc1y fwm the bulb; ,nn·h in sonu• compost mid coarse sand.
f,nc grir. U1hd. Groh m 1 in a/1,>:,t• Lay tht· stcm in die u-cnd1 m1el cover so dwt only rhr rip is e~,posccl.
/fft' l'lmc.~until rht· {ollcHdng w,rumn.

a s haded, frost-free place and treat appear donnant until leaves appear in CUTTINGS
thereafter as for seed s in pois (see p.256). the following g ro wing season ; this is It has been discovered that a few lilies
Plant out in the following autumn to hypogeal germination (see p.20). Keep can be grown rrom lear cuuinl\s; these
flowe r in 3-4 )'ears. Alternat ively, in the pots moist and light!)' s haded for a t include L. longiJ]onun and L. lancifoliwn
early autumn, before I he stem s die back least 1wo years 10 check if seeds have and the ir c ultivars. Pull off vigorous
comple tely, wre nch the s te ms out of the germinated. The seeds will die if they leaves arter the lily has come into growth
ground to avoid disturbing the parent dry out. Pot on seedling bulbs regular!)' and 1rea1 as an he rbaceous cu tting (see
bu lb. Pot the bulblcts or plant out in situ. 10 allow vigorous growth. They s hould below). C uttings may also be taken in
read, flowering size in 4-5 yea rs. Lilies midsummer. Kee p the c uttings humid ,
BULBILS also ma)' be hybridized easil)' (see p.21 ) . but ventilate regularly and c heck for rot.
The tiny bulbils that form in the leaf axils
of some lilies roo1 readily and produce LILIES FROM LEAF CUTTINGS
a nowe ring plant in three years. Some
species can be induced to form bulbi ls by
Dip both nuh
disbuddingjus t before nowering. Bulbil-
rorming lilies incl ude L. bulbifcrrrm ,
•if rnumg
l. dwlceclo,1icum , l. lcmcifoliwn (syn
l. tigrinwn), l. lcichtlinii, l. swgcnriac,
l. x 1es1<1cc11m, and some h)'brids.
Gath er the bulbils as thC)' ripen (see
above), root them in pans, then plant
ou t the en tire pan of )'Oung bulbs the
following au tumn . Alternat ively, the
pare nt Iii)' may be buried in a trench
after flowering (sec ,ibove right) so that
the bulbils root along its length. Lift the Sckn hralth_"· ncwl.'' 111<111m.· lrcncs (hnc- l~( Prq>cul' ,~ cliJutr J1111grdclcrl solllfion.
roung bulbs and replant in the spring. 1 L1lium
clost·
longinorum). F1n11ly ~msp t·ach Cl/It'
to dtt~s:tc·m and gtntlv pcd it off, so Jlutt it
2 \\.(•er, fcrtt'\' gfoH'$ lO a\'oicl (QIWUHiJ 1mi11g
tht' cuttings cm,I lO J)tUltYt your ) lti11 from
SCALING ( omcs mw,y "iih <1 ..l,cd ... Place- rhc curcing) in th<· chrmicc~l.s. Com1,fctcly inunn)r r<1th lrcif
Most lilies, particular! )' the hybrids, are <1 pl<r!i.lic bc~g w J11t."\'f lll mohtu,c_· lo!>~. <IIIWIK III tht' )c>futimt.
increased commercially by this method.
fi\'f·IIIQll(fi.
II is quite easy ror the gardener (see oltl c uui11~
p.258) if done in late s umme r so that
good growth can be achieved bc[ore
winter. Some species. for example
l. parclali1111111 and l. washi11gtonim111111 ,
have so many scales that the)' often s hed
scales naiurall)' when lifted. l. managon
and other s pecies from harsh climates
benefit from a period of cold below 27°F
(-3°C) to s tart the scales into growth.
S EEDS
Gather pale o r brown seedpods, dry
them , and sow the seeds fresh (see p.256). h1!>cr1 dun.' ruffing) in In .5-6 weeks, the cuuing) Litbd dtt• ClllllllgS a11cf
Lily seeds ma)' be stored and sown in
s pring but will not germinate as we ll.
3 a11 Jin (8cm ) 110t of mmst
\'t~rmiculi1r so th<H cmc-dii,ll
4 ,houfrl root and bulhltt~
Jonn crt the bases. lt·asr the
5 wat('r well. Kap 1l1tm
moist in a J1os1-Jrcc placr
Seeds of so me lilies, such as L arrrawm , of ccul, cutting b buritcl. Lcrbd cuuing) from rfrr ,·r,miculitr. in bright lighr 111 Ju-q, rhi'm
l. cmrclidum , l. l1e111y i, l. ja11011icum, and cmcl luxp J11m11cl <111d sluult:cl cu POI smglv 11110 soilkss /HJUing in gmwth Jor Cl rear before
l. martagon , germ ina te quite quic kly but 59-64°F (l5-l8°C). rni'< CII 1hr 'iarnr ,kpd1. ple1111111g them our.

273
A-Z OF BULBOUS PLANTS
LYCORIS
DIVISION Hl summc1 U OMSION in aununn ~
SEEDS 111 autumn ,
The perennial roots
of lhese bulbous
perennials resent being
dislurbed, so lhey are
besl propagated from
1ywn, seeds, although i l takes
rndima longer (3-7 years after
sowing) to oblain a nowering plant.
Galher the seeds when ripe and sow
them im1nediately (see p.256). Keep
frosl-free, ideally at 45-54°F (7-l2°C),
to ensure good germinalion.
Division of offsets before flowering
(sec p.254) should be done wilh greal
care to avoid damaging lhe roots, and
il will always set back the planls. It is
bcuer praoice lo top-dress and feed an
established planl for man)• years ralhcr
lhan aucmpling 10 divide il.
M ERENDERA
D IVISION in summer~
Seeos in -,pring or autumn I
Offsels arc freely produced by lhcsc
cormous perennials. The planls nower
ver)' erralically, so be sure lO divide
by lalc summer before lhey begin lo
nower. Break open lhe blackish lunics
lhal encase lhe conns, lhen delach lhc
cormels (see p.255). Pot lhem in free-
draining soil mix and keep well watered
while lhey are in active growth (but dry
when dormant) lO ensure lhC)' nower
well in the following year.
Since they form at ground level, lhc
seed capsules are not obvious. Gather
the seeds and sow as soon as they are
ripe (see p.256).
M ORAEA PEACOCK FLO\VER
DIVISION ill au1umn ~
SEEDS in au1umn or ..,prmg,
In spring and summer, lhese connous
perenn ials produce numerous shon-
lived, irislike nowers in clusters. Some
species can withsland temperalures to
20°F (-7°C). Tropical species require a
minimum temperalu,e of I 2°C (54°F).
In frost-free cond itions, they can be
evergreen. New plants nower in
2-3 years.
Cormcls are freely produced. Lift
lhc parenl plants when dormanl, or
when growlh is least active, in autumn.
Grow on the cormlets in conlainers or
in nursery beds (see p.255). Galher the
seeds when ripe; liming depends on
1hc flowering season of lhe species.
Sow lhe seeds immedia1ely (see p.256);
lhey usuall)' gcrminale very rapidly.
Transplant when large enough lO handle.
274
M uscARI GRAPE HYACINTH
SEEDS in autumn,
These bulbous
perennials (syn.
Muscarimia) are easi ly
grown. In fact, they
can be too successfu l
i\luscwi as colonizers, and
nrglurum for this reason they
need careful placement.
DIVISION
Numerous offsels are produced each
)•ear; divide them (see p.254) lO Stan new
colonies lhat will nower in lwo years.
SEEDS
Seed-raised plan ls do not nower for 2-3
years, but seeds are useful for alpines,
such as Muscari comosum, lhat have few
offsels. Species wilh large bu lbs , such as
M. muscarimi (syn. M. moschatwn), have
semi-permanent rools lhal rcsenl being
disturbed; these are also best raised from
seeds, but may be left to self-sow free!)',
Gather seeds in summer; sow (see p.256)
in autu1nn dirccl or in nursery beds.
NARCISSUS DAFFODIL
DIVISION 1ll <lUlUlllll '
Seeos m from l:11c :,prmg 10
earl) autumn ,
TWIN•$CA.LING AND CHIPPING
111 late summtr U
There are 50 or so
species and thousands
N'""""' of cullivars of lhcse
nipiwlo bulbous perennials. For
lhe gardener, division is lhe easiesl
method of increase. In fact, lhe bulbs can
become so congesled lhey rise up in a
mound and 1nusl be lifted to maintain
lhc nowering display.
Twin-scaling or chipping may suit
cuhivars that are slow lO increase, for
example Narcissus pseudo11arcissus
subsp. moscl,atus (syn. N. alpcstris).
Seed-sowing is bcsl for rare species
thal need lo be conserved.
DIVISION
Mosl daffodils increase naturally by
offsels; large ones may be separalcd and
replanted (sec p.254) in soil improved
wilh well-roued organic mauer, to nowcr
again in lwo years. Discard any old,
misshapen bulbs. Pot small offsets and
grow on for lWO years before
replanting them .
SEEDS
Gather seed capsules as soon as they
split, from late spring lO early summer.
Cut off lhe capsules rather than pulling
them off, lo prevent pcsls from entering
NERINE
D IVISION Hl :,pri ng '
SEEOS in muumn !
CHIPPING Ill l:ut ~umnwr u
Some of lhese bulbous perennials are
evergreen. Nerine bowdenii and ilS
cullivars arc useful as cul nowers. They
are besl left undisturbed and divided
only when eongeslion affects flowering.
Some smaller nerines, such as N. filifolia
and N. puclica, can be raised from seeds;
larger bulbs arc suilablc for ch ipping.
D IVISION
Nerines form a solid mal of offsets after
4-5 years. Divide in spring (see right
and p.254), not after lhe leaves die
down, when lhc nowcr buds may be
damaged. Lift a clump carefull)'.
separate out single offsets, and replanl
with lheir necks just showing, lo nower
within a year or lwo.
SEEDS
Ncrine seeds germ inate very quick!)',
often while Slil l on the stem. Keep a
watch for lhe neshr seed capsules
forming on dring flower stems and
lhe parent bulb. Sow the seeds (see p.256)
immediately in deep pots. Germination
usual ly occurs upon lhe first rains in
autumn. Keep the seedlings 1nois1 and
frosl-free. Seedlings nower in 2-4 years.
Species self-sow reaclil)',
Seedlings from natural lr pollinalcd
seeds or cross-pollinated cuhivars (see
p.21) can be worthwhile. Daffodils are
fairly eaS)' lO hybrid ize, because the
Slamens and stigmas are very accessible.
TvVIN-SCALING AND CHIPPING
Daffodi l bulbs consist of a series of
broad scale leaves and are suitable for
twin-scaling (see below and p.259) if
manr new plants are required. Trcal the
twin-scales as single scales (see p.258)
when growing lhe1n on.
Chipping (see p.259) is easier in
preparation since it demands fewer culs,
but it produces fewer bulbs. A large bulb
mar be cul into 16 or so chips 10 nower
in lhree years.
Fk~h~ ,rnff
lt {1\'('~
0
TWIN-SCA LING
Cw a /mg,· d11ff0</il
bulb inro JO or mcm:
1win·scalcs. Once
bulblcts form on mos,
af du• l win·}Cales,
discard <111y failures
BcL\trl 1,larc
<md tXJl tire ,csi.

DI VIDI NG NERINE
Rt'UIQ\'t· ,l1•1fd
Otllh't itrf <Uld
Lift a mc,tuu· rl11m1>, <ligging <lrq> 10 CJ\/Oicl
1 dcmwgi11g the bulbs cmcl root}, Scparmc thr
dump ming lmck-w-bac/1 forl,s, tht'n au-rfullr ·
tease "w single bulbs fmm t•ad1f)kff.
gather the seeds as soon as they ripen.
Sow (see p.256) immediate!)', o the rwise
they will perish. Lightly cover the
seeds with soil mix and germinate at
a temperature of 50-55°F (10-13°C).
Keep the seedling bu lbs frost-free, and
do not allow the soil mix 10 dry out.
Pot them individuall)• o r plant the,n out
after a year. Seed-raised Ncrine s hould
flower in 3-5 years.
N OMOCHARIS
SEEDS in autumn ,
ScALING 111 btc '!'UllltnCr ' '
This beautiful re lative of the lily has
bulbs that arc scaly and easily damaged
when moved , but this does make them
eaS)' 10 propagate. The scales are very
easily removed, after Oowering but
before the leaves die down , to produce
new bulblets (see p.258).
ORNITHOGALUM STAR- OF- BETHLEHEM
DIVISIONin autumn ,
SEEDS in aulllmn j
Man)' of the European s pecies of these
bulbous perennials are quite vigorous:
one in particular, Ornitl1ogal11m
11mbcllmum, is ex tremely invasive in
many areas. The South African species
are much less hard)'· The chinc herinch ee,
/cJO'i:(' lWll(S -:--:-::~ ~
Discm1I ,my disrlised hulbs, then dftm the
2 hc11lthv offsc1s. !lcplmu 1he off,et, m 111<
same tk1'll1 us brjo,f in 1nc11c111!d soil. Space
tlu·m abma 2;,1 (.5c,n) apcu-1. L<,l>d aml w<Hn.
CHIPPING
Lift large bulbs in late summer and cut
them into 16 c h ips (sec p.259). Once the
c h ips have s tarted into growth and have
been polled, water the young plants
onl)• when they are in active growth. Do
no t al lo w the dormant bulbs to become
desiccated, however. Keep them frost·
free until they arc large e nough to p lant
out after two years.
lf disease-prone stocks n eed renewing,
n ew planLS are best raised from seeds
because seeds are unlike!)• to trans mit
the disease. Gather and sow the seeds
as soon as they are ripe at 45-50°F
(7-10°C) for the best results (see p.256).
Keep the seed ling bu lbs well watered
throughout the )'ear; they should Oower
within four years.
0. thyrsoicles, is 1nost com1nonl)' grown.
Offsets are free!)• produced and are
white and almost greasy to the touch .
Leave plants undis turbed for three years,
then divide after the foliage dies do,vn
(see p.254).
Gather the seeds from the Oowcring
spikes when the seed capsu les change
colo r from green to brown (see
below). Sow the1n immediate!)'
(see p.254) to obtain Oowcring
p lanLS in 3-4 years. Th ey can
also be left to self-sow and
build up a colony.
RIPENING SEEi) C,IPSULES
As the seed <nJJsuks dpc11, d1r srem
(J,cre of Ornithogalum nu tans)
gmclually dies m1rl falls to the gro1111cl.
c11s11ring rhat the seecls spill s,tfcly
inro the soil when ,drllSccl.
L YCORlS- PA NCRAT IUM
O XALIS SHAMROCK, SORREL
D1V1SlON in autumn!
SEEDS in aullulul !
The storage organs of these plants
may be bulbs, rhizomes, o r tubers. Like
some of their herbaceous cousins, some
have a highly effective means of seed
dispersal and have become invasive
weeds in so me areas.
The bulbs or tubers vary g reatly in
habit, s ize, and appearance. Some are
scaly rhizomes, such as 0 . c1111eaphylla;
o thers have n etlike tunics, such as
0 . adenophylla, while some (0. obtuser)
are surface-growing. They all can be
divided as for bulbous offsets (see p.254)
LO produce nowers the nex t )'Car. (For
how to divide nonscal)' rhizomes, see
Perennials, p .1 49.)
Som e species, su ch as 0 . valdiviensis,
have capsu les that burst to scancr
seeds; gather seeds as for Alstrocmeria
(see p.260). Choice species arc more
discreet; the seeds ,nust be carefully
g leaned from ground-level seed capsules.
Sow (sec p.256) at 55-64°F (13-18°C)
for Oowers in 2-3 years.
0 XAUS OBTUSA
This specu·s sprc<Uh 'ilowl)~jClrmiug o mcu. l1
.,rnds t>ut umk, gwu11d ~tcms, tJr , u1111n·'i, rhm
J)tc){luCf bullnls. Lift thrse wlt.-11 tlomwnt and
grow on as fm· Iii\' l,ulbils (sec 1>.273).
OTHER BULBOUS PLANTS
Mu,,, Separate corms (sec p.255) when
dormant!- Sow seeds (sec 11.256) in spring
at 5'H>4°F ( 13-18°C) 1-
NtCTARoscoRDUM Sow seeds (sec ,,.256)
when ripe ln autumn*· Mar become
mvasivc if lef1 lO sclr-sow.
Non IOURI01' If bulbils are produced, trea1
as for lilies (sri· p.273) !- Sow seeds (s,·t
p.256) when ripe in late summer!-
No 11 IOSCllROU\l Divide offsets (sc,· p.254)
whi.:n dormant in autumn i;.
PA'<CRAHL" Divide offsets (,cc ,,.254)
w hen dormant~take care not to damage
parent bulbs U- Sow ripe seeds (sa p.256)
in autumn a, 55-64°F ( 13-l8°C) ! ,
275
A-Z OF BULBOUS PLANTS

P AMIANTHE R OSCOEA DI VIDI NG A ROSCOEA CLUM P

DMSION m win1t•r ! DMSION 111 ._pnng ur ,,u1um11.
SEEDS m :mwmn 1 SEEDS m ..,pnng ~

The deciduous Pam ia111 he pcruviana is
the on ly commonly grown species of
this sometimes evergreen, bulbous
perennial. It requires a 1ninimum of
50°F (\0°C) and should never dry out,
but it docs require a rest period in
winier wi th reduced watering. New
plants should nower in 3-4 years.
The bulb is composed of large, ncsh)'
scales; i1 spreads slowly by underground
stems (s1olons) that push the scales
apart. Lift these scales and 1rca1 them as
bu lbous offsets (see p.254) when growth
is at its slowest in winter.
The seeds 1akcs a year 10 ripen in the
capsules before the)' can be harvested
and sown . Germination is rapid if the}'
are kept humid at 61-70°F (16-2 t°C).
P OLIANTHES TUBEROSE
OIV1$10N m autu1nn,
SEEDS Ul JUIUllHl !
The tuberose, Polianrhes 111beros,1 , has
been cultivated for several centuries
but is now lost fr01n the wild in Mexico.
The tender tubers usually bloom only
once but produce many offsets each year
after nowering. Separate these when
the tubers arc dorman1 (see p.254) and
rcplan1 in well prepared, very fertile soil;
the soil must be warm . Store offsets in a
warm, dry place if needed until spring.
Sow seeds as soon as they ripen at
a temperature of 66-75°F ( l 9-24°C).
Provide the seedlings with a minimum
nighuime 1e1npcra1ure of 50°F (\0°C).
At first glance, this genus appears 10
be non bulbous; however, L he roots
arc tuberous, and the plants arc
monocotrledonous (sec p. J 7). Roscoea
wilhs1and temperatures of --1°F (-20°C)
if planted clcepl)'. In wet areas, the)' are
prone 10 rot, so protect them against
heavy rain. Seeds produce nowering
plants in 2-3 )•ears, but some, such as
Roscoea 'Beesiana·, arc s1crilc and must
be divided.
DIVISION
Roscoea ma}' be divided in spring, but 011" ((WI, dc1111p dav, dig (I tn:11ch lll kt1~I
i1 is easier 10 do it just as the foliage
turns color and begins 10 die back, as
1 c, ,;;pmk l,ltrdl'S d<'/Hh t111>uucl rht· plm11 ( hr1f
Roscoea ·Bn·!l>imw') w m·oicl clconu,"i11g the
for an herbaceous perennial (sec ,ight). _{lc!lln roots. Lijr rh._- plant. u~iug a f(111l.
Separate the thin tuberous roots and
replant Lhe divisions in soil prepared
with plenty of wcll-roucd organic mancr
10 nower in the following su111mer.
SEEDS
Gather ripe seeds in late summer or
autumn (sec below). Sow immcdia1cl}'
in warm climates or store at -11 °F (5°C)
for spring sowing (see p.254) in cool
cli111ates. Ger111ination is usually rapid,
and the seedlings can be 1ransplantcd
into pots or a nursery bed in summer.
Divide a dump into ,1.tctilms. ,,.,ing baclt-to-
2 l,acll Jo,Jzs i_f uadrd. Fcuh 'ifttion )hould
f1C1\'t~ goocl 1c>ob and 6-12 hcallln gm\\ th buds
(The oJtl 1,lum1, 111clict1H· wlt.-11• tlir bwI, t1rc.)

R OMULEA
DIVISION in muumn'
SEEDS in .tUHIIHn ~

A widespread cormous
genus, this includes
European species such ROSCOEA scro11r,10 Cw e1wt1\ tlnmagt'd mm, t111d ,It-ad mattL't
as Ro11111lca b11lbocodi11111
(syn. R. grmuliflora) and
I hr swtlli11g ~<'nl cc,p~uk) gwd1urU" wt·1gl1
dow11 the )fcni:,. tmwrnl the grnuml. Gmh('' die·
3 Dusi tl1t· hVW1tls with J1111gi<i,k. Rq,la,u the
\f( rim1) into 1nqxunl ~oil. 6in ( I Sc 111) clup and

Rcm1ulrn South African corms
tmlbotmli11111 such as R. macowanii.
Nearlr all arc winter-growing and
spring-nowering, so they mar be poucd
and wa1crcd a1 1hc sa,ne time.
In some cases, the offsets are almost
as large as the parcn1 conn and arc
quick 10 reach flowering size the next
year if divided as for bu lbs (see p.254).
The long seedpods retain the large,
brown seeds until well into autumn,
even after ripening. Sow the seeds fresh
(see p.256) at 45-5-1°F (6-12°C) or
outdoors under cover 10 ensure even
germination in spring and nowcrs in
th ree years.
'it't'clS llS SOOtl (j\ tlu•,, llll 11 )•dlo,\ish lHtn\'11.
SCILLA SQUIU.
DIVISION n1 t::lrl) :mtumn 1
Se:EOS 111 .1u1urnn:
CHIPPING 111 1.uc ,tunmcr U
The European and Asiatic species of
these bulbous perenn ials arc quite hardy,
whereas South Africans are 1cndcr.
The bulbs arc slow 10 form offsets and
division (sec p.254) is an caS)', if slow,
form of increase. 11 is best clone in
au1umn when divisions soon root; th is
applies lO auturnn-nowc ring species also.
6-12i11 (l.5-30c111) CI/Jlllt. \\111,·1 mul label.
Scilla set seed readily, especially Scilla
a1111m111alc, and se lf-sow in favorable
conditions. Seeds may be gathered in
late summer and sown (see r,.256) in
au1u1nn to germinate in spring and
nowcr within 1hree years. Leave self-
sown seedlings in situ.
Some species with large bulbs, such as.
Scilla pcr11via11a, may be propagated by
chipping. Slice the bulbs in10 16 chips
(see /J.259). They nowcr in 2-3 years.

276

S1NN1NG1A
SEEDS in '-pnng ~
'"SECTIONING m ,pring U SEEDS m au1umn OI' in :,pl'ing j
BASAL STEM CUTT1NGS Ill ,p110~ ~
LEAF CUTTINGS 111 klll' ,pnnR or l'.1rl~ ,ummcr U
Si1111i11g il1 spcciosa and its cuhivars,
commonly known as gloxinas, arc
tender tuberous perennials. They prerer
a minimum or 6-l°F (18°C); in cold
clima1es, s1ore the tubers dry over
winter. In growth, the tubers need
warm , indirect sunligh t and a rich soil
mix. New plants nower within a )'Car.
Surface-sow (see p.256) 1he tiny seeds
o n a peat-based seed soil mix. Keep in
bright , indirect light at a minimum or
59°F (I 5°C). Pot the seedlings singly
in a rich , soi lless polling ,nix.
Seed lings arc prone to fungal auaek,
so if o nl)' a few plants are needed , cu1
tubers in10 sections, before growth
stans, as ror begonias (see p.262).
To lake basal s1em cu ttings, nes1lc
some tubers, buds uppermost, into a
1ra)' in soillcss pouing mix, so 1hey arc
hair-buried and almost touching, in
earl)' spring. Leave in a lig ht place at
6-l-68°F ( l8-20°C) ror 2--1 weeks and
GLOX IN IA LEAF CUTTINGS
Srkct c, mmurc.
1 Ju_·nhh\', wultwuric.·,I
l«if 1/1<11 i, "' fl,11 Cl>
po:;~ilJk. Cut it fwm
tht' plm11. l 1sf c1 clt<m
,;c"Jprf to di, i<k thc.·
lrcif inw r,cu,!in·,sc.·
~cctio11s, each cd)(Jut
r½in ( 4cm) wi,k.
""lf{,11" ,reel"".>
wi1h <r .soil mix such
" ' f(llllll ""' ,~ f14'{1l
cmd slim I' !icuul o,
pnlitc.
)molt tub.-, forms tit
t 111 nul of mom \'flll
"'
Kcq> rhr omiugs our of di reel sw,liglu m
3 a temptT<ltUlt'. of t1IJ<11,C 6-l°F (l8°C). In J--1
wrchs. tim tubl'rs $hcrnfcl brgin to fmm. AJlow
die oM km1t'S ,o rot ll\\1CIY 11arurc1lly. thft1 pot ,hr
tuber~ at twice thdr own ckptl, w g,ow on.
OTHER BULBOUS PLANTS
Pcsc11Kt'<IA As [or Cl1io11ocloxa (sec J>.263) l-
Rt-10001t\rox1s Divide tubers in spring (sec
,,.254) l- Sow seeds at 45°F (7°C) in spring l.
T AKl~G BASAL CtTTINGS or G I OXINIA~
Stm t Wht'r~ into Krctwd1 to ol,win new ~hoab
<1bout -lon ( I ~'.:in) wll. Cut 1l1t·m mil of rl1f tubn
witJ1 " dt"atf. du11 p lmi_{f. lfWi11ing tr ;;mall prtYt'
,,{ wbn cu rhr bc1~r uf rt1ch owing (sec in-:ct ).
keep the soil mix just moist. \.Vhen
shoots appear, take cuttings (sec above)
and pot singl)' in soillcss mix with 1he
tuberous ·eye· jus1 covered.
Cuttings or whole o r pan leaves
(see below) may be 1ake11. New tubers
form at the base of tear stalks or cut
veins; some m.iy foil to root and grow.
Cuumg, ,lwul,I
nul wu, h
L"~'' d1t' cuuings flm cm 1l1t' soH mi\' ;;u,jcrc ('.
2 Senor wirh ,dn- hoop:, ovn rhc 111oi11 , ·ri11~
to llfq> th(· 011ti11gs in dost· nmtcrrt with du· ~oiJ
,ui.\. Lal>d, wmr,. crud (()\ff to 1:rq> humid.
WHOLE LEAF CUTTING
Remove a leaf with its
stalh and" snwlt piece.
or hl'd. of thf nwin
sum m du· b<1sc. P1C1cc it
upright III a pre1xirc<l
JXII so 1/w1 the leaf
si1s 011 the surfnce.
Ltd>d, watr,; wuf CO\Cr'
with ,~ plastic l>c1g hefcf
dear of rhc letif with S/>lil
swlles. 1iwu <1S in sup 3.
S,\l ROMAlU\I Scparalc o ffscl tubers when
dorm<ml in winier (ser JJ.2.54) 1.
5CA00'L' As [or ,.,ac111c1111h11s (St'C J>.270) l,
PAM IANTHE - S TERNBERG IA
SPARAXIS HARLEQUIN FLO\VER
DIVISION m lalc -,ummcr •
ln 1hc Northern Hemisphere, 1he corms
of harlequin nowcrs may be kepi dry
in win ter and planted in spring, to
ensu re 1hey nowcr in summer and do
1101 revert 10 thei r au1um11 -to-win1er
growth pauern . In mild areas, plant
them in autumn for spring flowers.
Cormels are frecl)• produced and can
be separated when dormant (sec p.255).
In cold cl imates, dcla)' sowing seeds
(sec p. 256) until spring, because 1he
plants need warmth to g row. New
plants should flower within 1hree years.
SPREKELIA AZTEC LILY,
JACOBEAN LILY
01v1s10N in hnc ...ummcr U
SEEDS tn ..pl'ing'
The cultivated stock or the onl)' species,
Sprekelia Jonnosissima, has become
infertile, bu1 seeds have now been re-
introduced from 1he wild . This 1cnder
bu lb is dormant in winter.
A few offsct.s arc usually encased in
the bulb tun ic. These can be separated
(see p.254) in late summer and potted
individually or lined out in a nursery
bed. They resent root disturbance. Take
care no t to keep the dormant bulbs 100
dry or the)' will become desiccated. On
the o ther hand , if the)' get too wet , 1hey
wil l rot. Offsc1s will flower in 2-3 )'Cars.
1r avai lable, sow seeds (see p.256)
when the threat of frost has passed. In
warm cl imates, seeds should germinate
free!)' ir sown fresh.
STERNBERGIA A UTUMN
DAFFODIL
OMSION in kue ....ummtr or earl) au1umn ,
SeEDS m :mtumn 10 "pring 1
CHIPPING 111 "ummcr U
The bulbs of so me s pecies nower best
in mature, congested clumps, so divide
1hem only when necessary. The bulbs
arc dormant only ror a shon time: lirt
them to divide 1he offsets (see /J. 254)
and poi 1hem or grow them on in a
nurser)' bed in a sunny Sile, New plants
1akc 3-4 )'Cars to reach flowering size.
The best method of increase is fro m
seeds, which are produced in capsules
a1 soil level. Sow the seeds (see p.256) at
55-61°F (13- l 6°C) as soon as the)' arc
ripe to germinate in the firs! autumn .
One species in particular, Sten1bergia
candida, is rare in the wild and 1101
quick to mu ltiply. Chipping (see /J.259)
is a wa)' of bulking up rare stocks more
quickl)'· Cui each bulb in10 as man)' as
eigh t ch ips.
277
A-Z OF BULBOUS PLANTS
TECOPHILAEA CHILEAN BLUE CROCUS
DIVISION in l:tl(.' .. ummcr i Tecophilaea rarely set seeds in cooler
SEEDS m la1c ~ummcr £
The two species of connous perennials
are thought to be extinct in the wild.
They need frost-free conditions in
winter when in growth; during summer
dormancy, the)' must be kept barely
moist. They take 2-3 years to flower.
Lift the corms and detach the cormels
to grow on (see p.255). The more
tender Tecophilaea violiflora must have
complete frost protection (see pp.38-45).
TIGRIDlA PEACOCK fLOIVER,
TICER FLOWER
Drv1S10N in ~pring or in mnumn j
SEEDS In spring'
Tigridia pavonia and its cultivars are
the most commonly grown of these
tender bulbous perenn ials. They are
prone to viruses, so seeds provide a
way of avoiding disease if necessary.
DIVISION
Divide the bulbs (sec p.254) every 3-4
years in spring or, in cooler climates
where they are overwintered under
cover, in autumn. The offsets vary in
size; replant larger ones with the parent
bulbs to flower in the same year. Take
care to discard any offsets that have
been affected by viruses. Pot smaller
offsets or line them out in a nursery bed,
as for cormels (see p.255), to grow on.
SEEDS
Gather the seeds in summer and sow
(see p.254) fresh in warm areas or in
spring in cold climates at a minimum
of 59°F (l5°C). Keep seedl ings moist,
and in bright light shaded from hot
sun, to flower within 2-3 years.
TICRIDIA 1'1 \VONIA SEEDHEADS
This Sl)ccics l)rocluccs long. upright se>eilpod.s in
lm,• summe,: The wind shol:cs 1lie brown ti11cnecl
,,,xis, whidr rhtn sc<111cr icccls Hkc n sail shaker.
278
climates. Although they are not rare
in cultivation, the conns arc costly. It
is therefore worth the cffon of hand-
pollinating the flowers in spring to
ensure seed set.
Gently brush a soft paintbrush over
the central stamens of every flower to
transfer the pollen from one flower to
another. Sow the seeds (see p.256) in
frost-free cond itions as soon as they
ripen; they germinate quite quickly.
TRITELEIA
DMSION Ill early au1umn
SEEOS in au11tmnI
In dry, warm summers,
the cormous perennials
in this small genus
will self-sow to some
extent. New plants
fri1drie1 shou ld flower within
ltL\'(I 3-5 years.
DIVISION
-------------
Sepa rat c offset corms when dormant
as for bulbous offsets (see p .254). The
offsets may have several layers of fibrous
coats; discard older layers, but do not
denude the corms completely.
SEEDS
Seeds are best sown as soon as ripe (see
p.256) at 55-61°F (13-l6°C). Transplant
seedlings 18 months later into a raised
bed with very free-draining soil.
TRITONIA
DIVISION m muumn ! DIVISION in ,pnng 1
Seeos 111 autumn or in spring I
Trito11ia have affinities to Crocosmi<i but
are generally more tender. They are very
easy LO please. Cultivars must be divided
to maintain the stock, but species come
easily from seeds. New plants nower in
two years.
DIVISION
The plants are in active growth in
winter, so they should be lifted and
divided in autumn . The corms are
produced in chains as with Crocosmia;
separate them in the same way
(see p.264).
SEEDS
The small, black seeds can be sown as
soon as they ripen in equal parts soil-
based seed ,nix and coarse sand at a
temperature or 59°F (15°C). 1r this is
not possible, store the seeds in a cool,
dark, dry place and delay sowing
until spring.
T ROPAEOLUM
DIVISION in \'.:1rly ,pnng U
SEEDS in ~pnng I
CUTTINGS in spring 11
Many of the tuberous
perennials in this genus
are tender, although a
few arc hardier. Seeds
1ioJ'ueolum are easy bul nOl always
'"''>11l1.11J11m available in cold areas.
(See also Annuals and Biennials. p.229.)
DIVISION
------------
The tubers can be vcr)' large and deeply
set in the ground, with spreading
clumps and threadlike shoots that travel
some distance below the surface berore
'* emerging. Lifting and dividing offsets
can be quite a tricky task.
Before the delicate shoots stan into
growth underground, lirt the dormant
tubers and very carefully separate as for
bulbous offsets (see p.254). Replant the
offsets at the same depth as the parent
tuber to flower the next year. If growing
on tubers in containers, use deep pots.
SEEDS
Pick the large, fleshy seeds from the
cuplikc capsu les. Store over winter and
sow in spring (see p.256) in frost-free
conditions. Germination is often erratic.
Seed-raised plants flower in three years.
CUTTINGS
The tubers o[ T polyphyllum lie very
deep in the soil, so lifting them is quite
a chore. Instead, take stem-tip cullings
as for herbaceous perennials (see p.154).
T ULBAGHIA
SEEDS m 1:ue- :,tunmcr or in spring 1
The bulbous or rhizomatous perennials
are clump-fonning and usually
deciduous, although some are se1ni-
evergreen. They are mostly summer-
growing and are vigorous plants that
benefit from regular division to maintain
them at their best. Tulbaghias do not
seed freely in cold climates.
DIVISION
Tease apan bulbous clumps in spring,
even ir they still have some foliage, and
pot them to grow on (see p.254).
SEED
Gather the seedheads in late summer
and dry to extract the seeds. These may
be sown (see p.256) as soon as they are
ripe. Stored seeds are best sown in the
spring to avoid any danger of frost.
The seeds germinate very readily in a
few weeks, and seedlings often reach
flowering size within two years.

T ULIPA TULIP
Otv1St0N in aummn i .
Seeos in au1umn ~
The thousands of cultivars of this bulb
are best clivided, especially because many
arc lifted and stored dry during summer
in cool or wet areas. The 100 or so
species come true 10 l)rpe from seeds, bu1
some patience is needed since seed ling
bulbs ,nay take six )'Cars to nower.
DIVISION
The ideal time to separate the offsets
(see p.254) is when the bu lbs arc lifted
10 be stored dry in a tray over summer.
Com,nercially this is still practiced ,
although tissue culture (seep. 15) is now
used for new cuhivars. In some species,
offsets form on the ends of roots clircctl)'
beneath the parent bulb and sink into
1he soil ("droppers"), so take care when
lifting Lhe,n. Replant offsets too deeply -
Sin (20cm) - rather than 100 shallowly.
or they may 1101 nowcr. Plant shallowly
as [or corms 10 promote offsets on stock
plants (see p.255), or cul small notches
into the basal plate 10 encourage offsets.
V ELTHEIMIA
OtvlStON in aulumn,
SEEDS in autumn or ~pring,
CUTTINGS in late auuunn U based pouing mix and coarse sand.
The 1wo large bu lbous perennials of this
genus are tender. They are summer-
dormanl, and )'Oung plants need long,
bright cla)'S 10 grow well ; this is not
always easy lO achieve in winter in cool
climates. New plants can nower within
three years.
Vel1heimia resent being disturbed , so
wait until nowering diininishes, then
divide the offsets (see p.254). Replant
TAKI NG VELTHEIM IA LEAF CUTTINGS
Tal,c a 11e,dy ma111rc le,if (here of Vclthcimia
1 bracteata, syn. V. capcnsis). Cut 1/imugh irs
b<1se wirh a scalpel or shm1, knife, wiling cm1·
1101ro <ut into le<1vc.·~ bc.·nrmh. If desired, cut the
leaf i,110 1~2½i11 (J-6cm) ,rc1f1ms.
.,
__. ..__
•
./
' ..
Wlll) TUUPS
Ju the wild, tulips (J1t_
· ,c Tulipa t:>chimganica)
grow in soil rha1 is bal:al i,1 O,c l1r<H. \Vhc11
dm,,umt. smn(' 1111ips mwa br lu:pr coml'krdy ,Ir).
SEEDS
The papery, winged seeds arc best sown
in autumn and need a period or cold to
germinate evenly. Tulips h)•bridize easily
(see p.21). Most cultivars arc sterile or
produce few good seedlings.
them in sanely soil or equal parts soil-
Make sure that the top of the "necks"
of the offsets are exposed.
Sow seeds (see p.256) at 66-75°F
( 19-24°C) singly in pots. Use deep 1'/4in
(3cm) pots 10 allow the seedling roots
space 10 grow away quickly.
Mature leaves may be 1rea1ccl as
cuuings (sec below). Once bulblets have
formed, carefully tease them out of the
soil mix and pot up singly. Grow on in
shade al 4 l-45°F (5-7°C).
Split sWkt's
~uppo, t ll'lif- ,
l11:.c, t rnc.h
~cuion somt wa)'
up dS OIi fr,if
Fill 1x,1s or U'ays with moist slwrp sand or
2 e<1ual parts 1xming mix micl \'tnnicufitf or
fim· gri1. l11scr1 1hr (l,Ui11gs l'CrliC11lly. j11s1 deep
enough 10 swml up. Keep l11m1id 111 68°F (20°C)
for 8-10 wreks 11111if bull,J,·1s form.
TECOPHILAEA - ZIGADENUS
W ATSONIA
DIVISION in spnng j
Seeos in aUlunm j
Wa1s011ia corms are generally hardy 10
about 20°F (-7°C). They are scarce in
commerce; seeds may be 1he only option.
They nower in three years.
IVa1s011ic1 form clumps with chains
of conns, similar to Crocosmia, and
are divided in the same way (see p.26'1).
In cold climates, lift sununer-nowering
species before the first frosts, divide
them, and store cir)• over winter, then
replant in spring. If large numbers of
corms are required , plant stock corms
shallowly in a nursery bed (see p.255).
The seeds are produced in long pods.
Gather them when ripe and store until
autumn. Sow (see p.256) at 55-64°F
(13-18°C); keep the seed lings frost-free.
Z EPHYRANTHES
01v1S10N :,pr-ing ( evergreen
in
~pecics) U or 111 auwmn
(deciduous species) j
Seeos in :,pring or mmunn j
Among these bu lbous
perennials, Zepltyramltes
cmulida is the hardiest,
ze,,h) r,m1J11•s
1
surviving Lcmpcra1ures
gra,itlijlorn 10 20°F (-7°C). They
are commonly known as rain or wind
nowers. Evergreen clumps nower best
if left unclis1urbecl but must be divided
eventua lly. Deciduous olTsets are more
easily divided. New plants nower in
two years.
DIVISION
When an evergreen clump such as of
Z. candida becomes congested, it is best
lifted and divided (see p.254) before
active growth begins. in much the sa,ne
way as for herbaceous perennials (see
also Roscoea, p.276} Divide deciduous
spring-and summer-nowering species
once they begin dying down in autumn.
SEEDS
--------------
The large, nat , black seeds persist for
a long period in the capsule. Gather
them when ripe; this varies from spring
10 autumn, depending on the species
and level of rainfall. Sow the seeds (see
p.256) in spring at 55-64°F (l3-l8°C).
OTHER BULBOUS PLANTS
ZtG,IDL ~L'S Divide bulbs (sec p.254)
when dormant in late amumn or spring j.
Sow seeds (sec p.256) when ripe or in
spring at 55-64°F {13-l8°C) l-
279
'
EGETABLES
As well as the excite,nent of raising a new plant, propagating vegetables brings
the added reward of an edible harvest, often within a few months. To flavor your
vegetables and other dishes, stock the garden with culinary herbs.
egetables n1ay be perennial, biennial, or
V ann ual plan ts, but 111ost are gro\vn as annual
crops. The principal, and generally easy, method
of propagation therefore is from seeds, which 1nay
be sovvn in vario us \vays, depending on the crop
and the clin1ate. The tradi tional met hod of sowing
vegetable seeds outdoors is in drills in a separate
vegetable plot, but they 1nay also be sown in deep
beds to avoid the need for d igging, in containers,
or in infonnal patches in an ornamental kitchen
garden. S01ne 1nethods of seed sowing, such as
Ouid-so\ving and intercropping, are peculiar to
the propagation of vegetables.
Vegetables are usually sown direct or
transplanted as seedlings into their pennanent site.
It is therefore particularly i1nportant to provide
the optin1um soil conditions for the best possible
crop. This involves preparing the soil, rotating
crops to avoid buildup of pests and diseases,
and so\ving appropriate cultivars for the required
harvest ti1ne. Vegetables may be classed as cool-,
te1nperate-, or wann-clitnate crops; so\ving ti1nes
\viii vary depending on the climate.
S01ne vegetables, such as aspa ragus and
cardoon, are perennial; these 1nay be propagated
by other means, such as cuttings of various kinds,
division, or grafting. Tube rous vegetables, such as
R EO·HOT C HIU PEPPERS
Chili JJCl'JX:rS such c,s rhis Capsicum an nuum
·1-101 Mo:iam' cross-pollinate nwrc readily tJwn
sweet /JCpf)ers. so ii is advisable w grow pan:m
plmus m lct1sr 70 Jr (20 111r1crs) <•t'"" from 011,cr
cultivc1rs. Gather st•cds Jmm fully , iprncd fruit!l,
potatoes or Jerusalem artichokes, are generall y
increased frotn seed tubers; in son1e cases,
specially bred seed tubers are available tha t are
certified free of viruses to ensure a healthy crop.
With son1e vegetables, such as leeks, it is worth
allowing a few plants to go to seed to sow next
year. S01ne vegetables cross-pollinate freely, but
others \viii come fairly true to type fro,n home-
gathered seeds; 1nany are specially raised hybrids
that produce inferior resu lts if grown fro,n
gathered seeds.
Culinary herbs (see pp.287-91) are cultivated in
1nuch the sa1ne way as other herbaceous or \voody
plants and so tnay be propagated in a nu1nber
of \vays, depending on the plant. Annuals and
biennials 1nust be raised fro1n seeds; herbaceo us
perennials 1nay be increased fron1 cuttings or by
division; woody herbs ,nay also be layered.
P UMPKINS ANO SQUASHES
This ,lf,•c,st." gmup c,J mu11wl
\legewbks is CliSY w
t>ropagme. If 1hr seeds
arc to be gad1crc,I,
hmul-polli,uue the
Jc11w/r flowers
n11cl rtmO\'C mllk
flowers to prc-.,,cnr
cultiwirs from
Cr'USS·polli ll(ll ing.
s,,1wsh tmd pump,lin
seeds musr l,c fully ma111rc
w ensure ge1mi11<1tio11,
281
VEGETABLES
SOWING SEEDS
ost vegetables are grown as annual
M crops and therefore are raised from
seeds, generally with good results. Mall)'
Fl hybrids are produced by crossing two
selected parents. The hybrids are
more vigorous, produce larger
crops, and may be of superior
quality to open- or naturall)' •
pollinated cultivars. Research in
recent rears has enabled resistance to
~ti
pests and diseases to be bred into man)'
cultivars, although quite a few people
feel the navor has been sacrificed. For
this reason, many gardeners grow the
so-called "heirloo,n" cuhivars, all of
which are open- or naturally pollinated,
and use natural , "organic" methods for
con trolling pests and diseases.
BUYING VEGETABLE SEEDS
Always bU)' seeds that have been sto red
in cool conditions and arc preserved in
sealed packets. Com,nercial seeds arc
tested for viabi lity, cleanliness, and
puril)' before reaching the consumer.
They are available in a variel)' of forms,
although primed and chittcd seeds may
be difficult 10 find.
UNTREATED OR "NATURfl L" SEEDS These
have simpl)' been harvested, dried , and
cleaned. They generally vary in size and
arc sometimes graded into spec ific sizes
for d rilling, using seed sowers (see p.28) .
PRIM ED OR "SPRINTER" SEEDS These are
spcciall)' treated to germinate 1-2 weeks
earlier than natural seeds. Primed seeds
arc also larger and easier to space along
a drill or sow individuall)' in containers.
DRYING SEEDPODS
111 dmnp climmes, pull up stems with seedp(J(ls
(1,,.,.c bcm,s) and lumg rhcm by rliei.- roots in 1111
airy. d,y. frosr-f,rc place. Once ,1, ird. ,emow 1/ic
11ods cmd extract 1l1e ser<ls.
282
V nl,rMNI \l'c,1':
JXUSlllfJ
Cliill('d S('C(IS (:-0<,l:ccl ill
,wtt·, ): pen
Pnmrd ~cr,k nu rot
l 'norntr,I U nttfalCcl
scc,k 1>ea
Tl'PES OF ~tr:D,
/\ ,,oriciy of \Cgcwblc stcds. wrht', tlum only nmw cd
m wllrratcd SeC'd.S, b aw1Uabk. Pnmccl cmd drilled
Unt11·11rt·tl , rc,f
, lus1c1 , : bat
scNls guarnmr,· i~,·cn gtnni,urritm; pclrctcd senls ,,re
ca.w to Jumdlc: coatctl seeds pru1n1 <1gcti11~1 disrase.
The)' arc ideal for sowi ng earl)' carrots
or parsnips when conditio ns are poor.
CfllTTED (SPROUTED) SEEDS These are
prcgcrminatcd and sold in small plastic
containers to be sown at once in pots or
tra)'S, They are useful for seeds that are
difficult 10 germinate . Any seeds may be
pregcnn inated at home (sec p.284) to
give them an early start.
PELLEl a;o SEEDS These arc coated with
cla)' to form s mall balls and are easier to
hand le than untreated seeds, particularly
small seeds such as those of cabbages,
carrots, and caulinowcrs. They arc often
treated with a fungicide or insecticide.
Pelleted seeds need moister conditions
than unareated seeds 10 break clown the
coa1ings so the seeds can germinate.
COATED AND DllSTED SEEDS These arc
treated with fungicide. As with all such
seeds, wear gloves or wash )'Our hands
after sowing.
G ATHERING SEEDS
Instead of buyi ng seeds, you can gather
them from plants in your garden. Fl
h)'brids do not come true to l)'pe, but
gardeners who arc not concerned with
unifo rmity can experiment with open-
poll inated seeds. Some vegetables are
more worthwhile from home-gathered
seeds than o thers (see A-Z of Vegetables,
pp.292-309).
Some vegetables are scl[-pollinating,
while o thers need 10 be cross-pollinated.
In the garden , there will be a certain
amount of natural cross-pollination, so
self-pollination is never I 00 percent. To
ensure purity of seeds, either grow only
one variety of each vegetable, or isolate
the different varieties of sel[-poll inators
from one another. Brassicas and co rn
can be grown for seeds only in large
quantities. Each variety must be grown
in a large block - about 50 plants for
brassicas and 100 plants for corn - to
ensure the purity of the seeds.
Some vegetable seeds , such as
carrots, parsley, and parsnip, can be
sown immediate!)' after the)' ripen,
.'vfini pdfflcd
i.cnli.. fUJ mp
C(t<IINI \t'('(f-.·
, aulrflowt·,
Dw,tl"d
SC't'dS: ((ltTtJf
whereas o thers, such as beans, squash,
tomatoes, and corn, must be stored. Allow
the seeds to ripen fully before harvesting.
Gather seeds in pods while s1ill on the
stalks and dry them tho roughl)' (see
below, left) . Seeds con tained in neshy
fruits need to be cleaned before dr)'ing.
Some seeds may need special treatmen t
(see A-l of Vegetables, pp.292-309).
STORING SEEDS
Seeds deteriorate with age, losing their
viability and vigor, which rcsuhs in
poorer gcnnina1ion and reduced yields.
If stored, the)' are best preserved in cool,
dark, dry conditions at about 34-4 l °F
{l- 5°C): never in a kitchen drawer or
garden shed. Store the seeds in paper
packets in an airtigh t container or in
airtight jars, labeled with 1hc plant name
and harvesting date. Reseal foil packets
with tape after opening.
Before sowing, test the viabilil)' of
seeds by placing 50-100 seeds on moist
paper towels in a wann, dark place.
Keep them 1noist and check dail)' for
germ ination: it shou ld be at least 60
per-cent for viable seeds. If it is low,
sow the seeds more thickly than usual.
CROP ROTATION
\.Vhcn planning your vegetable garden,
group vegetables into the following
categories: alliums (onion famil)') ;
brassicas (cabbage fami ly); legumes
(beans and peas); solanaceous crops
(peppers, potatoes, and tomatoes); and
umbcllifcrous crops (carrots, parsnips).
Sow vegetables fro1n each group in a
different site ever)' 3-4 years (every
1-2 years in a s mall garden), to avoid a
buildup of pests and diseases in the soil.
This is especiall)' important with alliums
or brassicas.
W HERE TO SOW VEGETABLES
•
There arc two principal ways of growing
vegetables: in rows or in beds. Vegetables
have traditionally been grown in spaced
rows, or "drills,'' in rectangular plots; this
 SOWING SEEDS

In spring. loosen up the soil and add

THE RAISE D O R DEE P- BED SYSTEM
A deep bed improves 1/re soil,
so ilu11 i1 is possible 10 sow up
to four limes as densely tts in
a couve11tional bed. Culth•atc
1hc ground deeply and dig in
organic mlllter. Marl: out tlie
c,rc11 of ilie bed: ii shoultl be 110
murr 1lum 5fl (1.5111) wide IO
{illlJw easy access with"ur
. wal1ling on tlte soil. Mmmd
1l1c swfacc, using wpsoil from
another (ffea, so thlll die bed
is sligluly raised.
system is best if a large crop is requ ired.
Nowadays the bed system, with vegetables
spaced equally in narrow beds lined by
paths, is more popular. The benefit o r
this system is that only the actual bed
needs 10 be dug, manured, and rertilized,
not the soil in between. Also, all or the
work can be done from the paths,
avoiding so il compaction. Raised beds
(sec above) warm up more quickly in
spring and give greater yields because
crops can be grown closer together.
P REPARING THE SOIL FOR SOWING
Most vegetables prefer a well-drained,
moisture-retentive, slightly acidic soil and
one that is rich in nutrients, espec ially
for long-1enn crops. Choose a sheltered
but not s haded s ite. Thorough!)' dig the
soil in autumn, adding plenty of well-
roued o rganic matter, such as manure
o r compost. Do not sow any root crops
(except potatoes) on freshly manured
ground, because tile)' will produce
forked roots.
fertilizer. Norrnally, a balanced one of
nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassiu111
(potash) is used for vegetables, but
certain crops have specific needs, such
as lime for brassicas.
Just before sowing, rake over the
soil 10 give a smooth , loose surface,
known as a "fine tilth." This allows
seeds to be sown at a consistent depth
and to obtain the oxygen essential for
ger111ination. Heavy, wet soils are cold
and lack oxygen: ir possible , wait until
the so il is workable before sowing
or transplanting seedlings. If the soil
is wet, stand on a board to avoid
compactio n. Dry soil is also a proble,n
(see below), since water is needed 10
enter the seeds and 1noisten the seed
embr)'OS for germination.
Most vegetables need soil at a
minimu1n of 45°F (7°C), to germinate.
So111e, such as corn and squash , require
higher temperatures, while others,
such as cabbage or lettuce, will not
germinate ir the tc1nperature is too
high . So,ne will bolt, or go 10 seed, ir
sown at the wro ng tilne of year (see
A-Z of Vegetables, pp.292-309).

SOWING SEE DS IN STAN DARD DRI LLS

SOWI NG lN DRY OR WET SOIL

MarJ: mu ,1 row with a string Swnd on <1 boa,d w t1,•oicl DRY CONDITIONS \VJ1c11 1hc W ET CONDlnONS If dre soil
1lrnrtheanclco,nc:,pegs,ofc>,.a hoc to sralle.
U!iir
with ,,
cl1t1w
2 <Ollll'llrring the soil. Sprinkk
the scccls thinly an,I C\1('11ly along
soil is vCI)' d,y. wcuc, 1he base of
the drillfirsl, r/ren sow !he seeds
tlmins sloh h•or is very hcmy,
1

sp, iullle" le1yer of sC111cl 111 rl,c

our" small, t'\'CII drill h1 lire soil lhc drill. Covt'Y thr seeds witl1 soil ,rnd cover over wirh cl,) 1 soil. drilJ bt:jllre sowing the seeds.
ro rite ckptl1 ,r,,uin.·,I for thr· seeds. without clisloclgins: ll1rm , \\l{ltc, in.

SOWI NG SEEDS IN A WID E DRI LL

liil:e a hoc cmd clrng it towwcl
1 you. ap,,lying ,1 light and even
JJICSSIIIC. Marl, 0111 parallel drills
6-9i11 (I 5-23cm) "ick cu the
required clr/Jlh for 1hc srrcls.
Space Jmgf seeds, 01 trichlc·
2 sow snwlte1 seeds. along £'crch
drill. Make s1111.· duu the rc,1uirtcl
disurucc is lcj1 bctwt'cll tl,r sads,
drpcmfing 1111011 thci, size.
C11rcji1lly cover 1l,e seeds wi1l1
3 soil. Use the hot· or l l rnllt', ,,,,
drnw thr soiJ ovtr gcnlfy with your
fool. Tt1l1r CCII< 1,01 w clislo<lgt rl,c
seeds. \Vmer i11 wdl.
1'101ecr rhc sc.•cds from binls or
4 fomging <111inwls if n eCt'SSlll y
bv 11cggi11g wi 1t ,u•tting ewer 11,e
mu~ Remove the n('Hing bc.jor(' 1l1e
scecllings grvw rhwugh the 111e~l1.

283
VEGETABLES
FLU ID-SOWING PREGERMINATED SEEDS
Pffgenninat(' the sctds tm m()iSI
1ahso, bcru 1n11,e,. As soon <b rlu_:,•
lun•t· ~wdJrd cmd Jwvc· begun to
~,,rout. w(lsh the 'ift'ds a1njullv
inw " {iut'·Jtl(·:,,hr,I :,k\'c muk,
xnrrly r111111111g hlllt't:
FLUID-SOWING PREGERMINATED SEEDS
Crops such as beets, carrots, and
parsnips need a higher temperature for
germination than their seedlings need
for growth. In colder climates, this may
affect the yields of spring sowings. To
obtain a reliable germination rate, seeds
can be pregcrminatcd, or chiued, and
then nuid-sown. First the seeds arc
scattered on damp paper .towels in a
saucer or seed tray indoors al 70°F
(21°C). They usually germinate within
24-48 hours, depending on the crop.
The seeds can then be mixed with a
clear gel, such as water-based glue or
wallpaper pas te, before sowing in drills
(see above). Do not use wallpaper paste
containing rungicide, which may kill the
seeds. Sow when the seed roots are no
longer than 'tin (5mm) , or they may be
damaged during sowing. Gel helps keep
the seeds moist until they root, but the
so il should still be watered ir needed
in the l'irst 2-3 weeks. The seed lings
develop more quickly ,vith this method.
SPACE-SOWING AT STATIONS
Drm,1 0111 (I, ill!) (ll <lf)JJl'Opriatc
Sp<1ci11g!. .for rite crn1, (hnc pc"s).
Tt, marJ: the inrcrvnf, ot whid1 thr
satls shc>ulcl hr :wwn, clrnw mo,c d, iJb at ,iglu
m1gle!) to 1l1c first sci. Sow 2- ] secd.s m ('ach
inursecricm. or "s1aiion ... \\'cue, i11 m,cl fabd.
284
ML\ 111' :,,cmtf wallp<1/JC1 pt1s1t·
2 (withmu f1mgicid(') in a jm; 3 Drnh' ""' a drill of thf
"l'JJropdmc depth ht rlw
l 'sr """"' 8jf ()~ (2.501111) of /J(ISIC :,ccdhal: h'lllt..- r ii i_f the :,c>il rs dr\.
Jo, 100 !)Cfcls. U1p thr st-eds into Pour du- f"''ih" ilH<> cl 11l0,ti< l>ag
tltt' _JW wul sw gt-·1111\ to cli,.trilmrf wul Imo, 1hr oprn r11Cl. Snip off 011c
rhfm rvenlv 1J1ro11gh rht 1>a::i1r. cv111n le> /._-m·ccr Y;in ( Inn ) hok.
SPACE-SOWING AT STATIONS
This method or sowing has become
popular because it reduces the amount
of thinning necessary, makes more
economical use of seeds, and avoids the
need to transplant crops that 1113)' suffer
a check in growth ir root disturbance
occurs at the seedling stage.
To station-sow, drills are made at the
correct spacing and depth ror the crop.
The"stations" at which 10 sow the seeds
arc measured out, either by drawing out
more drills (see below left) orb)' ,naking
shallow holes along each original drill.
B ROADCAST- SOWING
Some crops, such as carroLS or radish,
may be broadcast-sown over a well-
prepared seedbed (see p.32), rather Lhan
into drills. This method makes efficient
use or space and may be used for early
sowings into a cold frame or a plastic-
l'ilm tunnel (see p.39) in colder climates.
Because the crop will be difficult 10
weed, it is preferable LO broadcast-sow
outdoors on to a stale seedbed, where
weed seeds in the soil have been allowed
to germinate and then hoed off before
sowing a crop (see p.32).
If the seeds are very small, L11ey can
first be mixed with some fine sand to
ensure even distribution. Once sown
(see right), the seeds should not be
covered too deeply; ir they arc LOO for
down in the soil, they may rot before
they have a chance to germinate.
THINNING SEEDLINGS
Seedl ings must be thinned al an early
stage before they beco,ne crowded and
compete for light and moisture. Thin
in two or three s tages, taking out the
weaker or damaged seedlings each time
so that the leaves of the remainder
gradually have more room LO grow. At
the last thinning, the seed lings should
Grmh er Jinf <d /Ubtc
4 ~<(IH.'C~c
wul ::.Ct'ds into 111,· clrill. L<rbd
thf d,HI, 1ht·n n 111'{ullv ch<lh' thr
soil ow, ,lu· ::irfch wit/, tht· lu1cli
of a rcrlu· to nn·,·, diem. f11 11sl1 h)
t,ghrly nrlrn1g OH'r the soil ,wfacc.
be left at the spacing recommended for
mature plants (sec A-Z of Vege1ables,
pp.292-309). This method avoids any
gaps opening up ir some seedlings die
off in the mean1in1c.
Seedlings o r crops such as cabbages,
lettuces, or onions may be lifted ror
transplanting. Firm the soil again b)'
giving the seedbed a good watering.
M ULTIPLE-SOWING TECHNIQUES
Seeds of two or more crops 1113)' be
sown together to maximize use or the
available ground (sec facing /Jage). A
fast-growing crop is generally sown
between a slower-growing crop so that
BROADCAST-SOWING
PrqHm· and wn1t•r
1rite scc,lhccl. lf1r11,
when rhc ~111J<1Cf Ju,!I
dried off. ml«• ir ,,,
cn·mf c, ji11f rilrh.
IJH,mka:..r rhr .;)fCtb b)
sctlllcn11~ them rhr11h•
and n rnh J,0111 your
hand. o, o JJ<1ckr1.
m•c:r ll1r swfllc,·.
Cover o\'er the seed, b,, Hgluly cl1ah'i11,~
2 the ral1c o,,cr rh.: S()if cH , iRl,c <m~ks to d1r
original <lirccri«m of railing. Ust• a wtlttTing am
wjtJ1 a fine msc· to watc, rhc seedbed dwroughJy.
LC1bd rhr SCC'llhrd.

THINNING SMALL SEEDLI NGS
Thrn smC1U st·c,lliug.; hr n;pping thnn our cu thf
lm~c <if rite .!)tcm bc1wt•cr1 fi11gn wrcl rhumb. o,
ml' 'ilH~c>, s. This ,1,·rfrd.; drsrurb111g d1i· mots f>f
rhf ndu_•, ,;c·c,lling,;, TJ,in nwugh w k<l\c <1 liuk
<km :,/H.IH. beth tTn lht· ,n_ ·,ll111KS dr<H 1t·nurin.
MULTIPLE-SOWI NG TECHN IQUES
LNTERCROPPl~G / J1i111), '\OW f(>h'S of f(UiCll ·
,l{H>win~ V<'~rwbk~ (hnc of kuucd hr1wcf11
driU!t ,drh :,t'f<h sown at suuion~ of a :;lown
<mp (lu~rr c>{ lnuaolD. \Vhrn thr s,·ctllings hme
f\H> lccnt·:,. thin out 1<> aJlm, lu·c,lthv gn>hth,
l N1 rR!,O\\'ING Srmion·">h (sec facing
pugd " .!)Ith\ a op :,ud1 as I}(" :,nips. Sow sec&,
tJJ c1 fw,lt'r·matw rng c1c•p :,11d1 <1.s uuli:,h (in:,cl)
rhinh IN:'f\H'('n 'il<Him,s. I ift tl1cfill· i11 cmp w11h
a11c w ""''id clistwhi11g 1hc mc1i11 cwp~ ,ouh.
BROADCAST-SOWING IN POTS
I
for ,;etcls thm gt·nni,wtc c·rrllliclllly. or if
1 0111,v " _few pla111s (ff(.' Uft'<kcl, sow in a 3 1/-in
(9cm) ,x>t of ))n.·d soil mi,,. scmtc, ing Ilic :icrth
thi111) mul C'Hllf)~ Cm•,.,- w rhdr (IWH dcp1h
of mi., . wc1tn, c111d lubd.
one crop can be harvested before the
slower crop begins to fill in 1he space.
There arc two methods of muhiplc-
sowing. lntcrcropping involves sowing
1wo crops in alterna1e drills; when
intcrsowing, 1wo crops are sown in the
same drill. lntercropping can also be
employed to combine a tall-growing
crop with a trailing or root vegetable, so
!hat the growth of each crop docs not
compete with the other. For instance,
)'OU can sow corn with squashes or plant
potato tubers ,vi th brassica seedlings
and cut down the potatoes as the
brassicas mature. ln!ercropping is also
ideal for deep beds (see p.283). Peas may
be sown clown the middle with potatoes
or corn on either side, or onions,
\\111,·n the srt·dlings (hat· calJbagcs) haw'
2 1wo sc•ftl Jrmc.•s. 1rnns11lonr them inw <c•ll:,
of )oil mix. Dbcwd uiuch smaflc,. unf) wul mn
tJwt show s1g11s of cold <lwnagc ,,r <list·asc·.
\\'cuc.-r <11ul lt1bd rite srt'dlings.
SO\VING SEEDS
shallots, or brassicas may be sown with
leeks, roolS, and greens along 1he sides
where 1he soi l is more moist.
SOWING IN CONTAINERS
Sow in a seed tray, smal l pol (see below
left), or pan, depending on how many
plan1s will be required. Generally, a 3½in
(9cm) pol or a 5-6in (13-15cm) pan is
sufficient for mos! vegetable crops.
To prepare the con1ainer, fil l loosely
with seed soil mix (see p.34), tap 1he
con tainer on the bench, and level off
an)' excess with a straight piece of wood
or ca rdboard . Firm the surface with a
presser board or an empt)' pol to within
½in (2cm) of the rim. \Vatcr if nccclccl,
1hen broadcast-sow the seeds or sow
singl)' on 1he surface. Sieve a liule moist
soil mix over the seeds and give a final
press. Cover with glass or a plastic bag
or place in a closed case, ven1i laling
daily 10 re,nove excess condensation.
Keep the seed lings in good light once
germinated. As soon as 1he seedlings
produce 1-2 seed leaves, they should be
transplanted singly (see below, center)
10 avoid overcrowding and any damage
to the seedl ing roo1s. Prepare 2-Jin
(5-8cm) pOlS or cells, as before, with
polling mix. Make a hole in each pol or
cell and carefu ll)• insert a seedling, firm
in, and water.
SOWING IN CELL PACKS
Seeds can be sown directly into cells
(see below). This elim inates the need
for 1ransplan1ing and allows plants 10
grow unhindered. IL is cspcciall)' good
for plants that arc set back by root
disturbance. A good-sized cell allows
seed lings 10 develop strong roolS, eve n if
cond itions are not suitable for planting
ou1 a1 the optimum 1ime. Pelleted seeds
can be sown one seed per cell; other
seeds arc sown 2-3 per ce ll and th inned.
SOWING IN CELL PACKS
fill cell packs with seed soil 111l<1111djir111
lightly. Mc,l,e l,olrs 1100111 ¼i11 (5111111) deep
in each cell. Sow several seeds i11 each link,
lightly cover witli mix. Jc,bcl, 1he11 1V<11c,:
Thin tl1c ~ccdUng:, wJ1en they c~tJt>ear w leave
tlu• strongest in each cell.
285
VEGETA BL ES
MULTIBLOCK-SOWI G
Fill a cell u-,w with moist 110ui11g mix. Mt1Ju·
1 a sliallow <lqncssio11 h1c<rch cell with your
fingn: Sow .3-4 St'l'ds in earl, cdl mul Jigl1tl)1
cm•er ,drh mix. \Hue,: label. then put the irny
in ti liglu. wm m 1,focc.
M ULTIBLOCK-SOWING
In th is method of sowing (see above),
3-5 seeds arc allowed 10 germinate
and g row as a grou p. The benefi t of
this method is that many plants may
be grown in a small space. 1t is suitable
for root, bu lb, and stem vegetables such
as onio ns, turnips. beets, and leeks,
rather than leafy crops such as leuuces.
T RANSPLANTING FROM A SEEDBED
Water the seedbed if it is dry, then lift
ou t 1he seedl ings gently wi th a trowel ,
retai ning as much root and soil o n them
as possible. Never handle the stems.
Tease the seedlings apart and discard
any 1ha1 are diseased: look out for wire
stem (a shriveled, brown stem beneath
the soil surface), root rots, and clubroot:
also d iscard weak, small seedl ing,s.
Plant hea lthy specimens in 1nois1 soi l,
preferably in the evening, when showers
are expected. Make a hole jus1 large
enough for the roots, then position the
seedling so that its lowest leaves are
just above soil level. Planting too high
exposes the stalk , wh ich may snap off
in the wind: planting too deep can
allow diseases 10 develop. Finn in each
seedling so that there are no air pockets
around the roo ts, then water in well.
TRANSPLANTING CONTAINER-SOWN PLANTS
Before transplanting in colder climates,
ensure the seedlings are hardened off
well by placing them in a cold frame,
g radually increasing the ventilalion over
a period of 7-10 days. Alternatively,
place in a shehered site outside during
the day for increasingly longer periods.
Water seedlings well before lifti ng
them . Each shou ld come o ut with a
good, clean root ball. Some ce ll packs
are reusable , with holes at the base, so
use a piece of wood or stake 10 push out
the plugs. Plant out as above and l"inn in,
just covering each root ball 10 prevent it
from drying out , and water in well.
286
Tl,c ~cah )lioulcl gcnnimHc· within 5-7 Lecn·t· the m1dlimu·<l st·t'cllings w clc,•t·lo1,
2 days. Do not thin ll1i· sct•dlings. \Vh,·11 they 3 as dustl'rs oJ \'Cgcwblrs. Dre.pile being
hm•f 0t1t· or two r, uc kc,vrs. J>lcrut 0111 scnlliugs c_mwcfcd. the plct11b :,hould 1nocluu cHfHrcri\C'
in rhd, pJugs, m du: co11cct <lislcmccfm the ··baby .. ,·cx,·tcd,lcs.
crop (h1Tl' lllrnips ).
GROWING VEGETABLES IN CONTA IN ERS
Most vegetables can grow successfully in IOi,1 (25cm) or up t0 3ft (90cm) in diameter
coruainers. either outdoors or proteclcd in and up to 2rt (60cm) deep. Make sure that
a greenhouse. Except ions arc vegetables that the containers arc out of run sun fo r part
need a 101 of space, such as squash, larger or the day, in a sheltered site. Do not place
brassicas, rhubarb, and corn. them Loo close togc1hcr, or. the plants will
Outdoor conrniners are ideal for 1hose produce more lear1 ha11 crop.
wi1 h tiny gardens or as a wa)' oravoiding Good drainage is vital: make drainage
soil-borne diseases. In colder climates, early holes in the base. Use good garden soil
c ro ps may be produced under glass, o r with added pea1 and well,ro11cd manure
plants may be staned inside and moved or compost, and acid a suitable fertilizer.
outside 10 grow. II is also possible 10 extend Crops may be sown direcr, or the seedlings
the season by bringing plants in comaincrs may be transplanted into the containers.
under cover in autumn . Once i1 is planted, mulch each container
Suitable comaincrs include grow bags, with compos1ed bark. wcll-roucd manure,
tcrracoua or plastic pOlS, barrels and compos1, or gravel to help retain mois1urc.
wi nclowboxes, and even hanging baskcLs. \Vater up to three times daily in hol weather;
The conlainers must be a minimum or appl)• a liquid fertilizer regularly.
GROW BAGS Cm11s ,uclr
as tomatoes (as lr..,-e),
cgg,,lmus, a11cl cucumbers
nwy be misecl in grow bags,
/Xlrticula,-/y w/,e,-e soil-borne
diseases cue prcvalenr.
CLIMBING CROPS
Cli111bi11g crops such CIS
ru1111tT beans or cucumbers
slioufcl he grown in l<1rge
couwiners of soil b<1sed mix
4
lO cdfow for vigorous mot
de, elol'me11t.
1
 CUL INARY HERBS

CULINARY HERBS
ew things may be more delightful than In spring or early summer, prepare
F going into the garden and picking
some fresh herbs for use in the kitchen.
some containers (polS, seed trays, or
cell packs) with a free-draining rooting
Culinary herbs general ly are short-lived
plantS, so they must be propagated
regularly. ln most cases, this is easy 10
do. Cultivars, especial ly variegated ones,
do nol con1e true from seeds, while
other herbs may not set seeds, especiall)'
in colder climates; these herbs may be
increased from cuuings, division, or
layering, depending on the type of plant
material. The onl)' way lo grow annual
and biennial herbs is from seeds. Most
herbs prefer a free-draining soil that is
reasonably fertile , but not 100 rich , in
full sun. For details on specific culinary
herbs, see the A-Z of Culinary Herbs
(pp.290-91).
T AKING CUTTINGS
Cuuings may be taken from the firsl,
soft shoots at the stan of the growing
season, when they have the highest
rooting potential, or from semi-ripened
shoolS later in the season; some shoolS
root best if taken with a heel. Cuuings
ma)' also be taken from the creeping
rootS or rhizomes of certain herbs.
SOFTWOOD CUTTINGS
Taking softwood stem-lip cullings from
the new growth is su itable for many
perennial herbs, such as lemon balm,
mint , oregano, rosemary, sage, and
th)'me, and this is especiall)' useful if
the plant is not large enough 10 supply
root cuttings (see p.288). Taking cu uings
often spurs a plant into new growth and
helps keep it bushy.
medium, such as one of eq ual pans fine
bark and peat. A free-draining mix is
essential because the cuuings are at risk
of rot before they root.
Collect the cuuings material in small
batches in the ,norning, when they are
less likely 10 become dehydrated (see
below). Use a s harp knife, not scissors,
which tend 10 pinch and seal the stem
and hinder the rooting process. Place
the shoots immediate!)' in the shade in
a plastic bag or bucket of water, because
even a slight loss or moisture will hinder
the cuuings' ability to form rOolS.
Prepare the cuuings as shown below,
leaving the top leaves 10 feed the cuning
as it roots. Do not tear off the leaves,
because all)' damage can admit disease -
carefully cul them off with a knife.
Make a ho le in the rooting medium
for each culling. Never allow the leaves
lO touch the medium or be covered
with it, because they will rot and may
encourage fungal growth that can spread
up the stern and 10 other cuttings.
Overcrowding the container also
increases the risk of fungal disease.
Do not insert cuuings of different
species in the same container because
they quite often take different periods
of time 10 root. Dip difficuh-10-root
cuuings in hormone rooting compound
just before inserting them.
Keep the cuuings out or direct sun
in hot weather - bright shade is best
for the first week. In cool climates, the
best place is a greenhouse. Cover the
container with a plastic bag (see below)
Ht:t:I. CUTTINGS
In sining, sckcr a new ,hoot (here ()j purpk
sage) 11u1 more rh,111 ·Hn (JOcm) Jo11i, CwSJJ it
n1~ar the bast" lmd gnuJv puU ir l1way from rhe
main stt·m ,;c, rhm ir rcr<1i11s" smcill sliver of
b<1rl1 (tl,c "liccl"). Jii111 rhc heel of 1lic curring
and remove its lower lec1ves (sec insc1).
or a cut-off plastic boule (see p.39). To
stop excess moisture fron1 dripping onto
the cuttings, 1un1 the plastic bag inside
out every few days when condensation
builds up. If fungal growth appears on
a cu11ing, pick it out at once.
Softwood cunings of easil)' rooted
herbs, such as lemon balm, marjoram,
mint, and tarragon , will root in water,
as for perennial cu11ings (see p.156).
HEEL CUTTINGS
Take these from shon new shoolS (see
above). The growth hormones that assist
the rooting process are concentrated in
the "heel" of old wood. When pulling
awa)' the shoot, avoid tearing bark from
the shoot, since this may expose it 10
infection. Treat as for softwood cuuings.

TAKING SOFTWOOD CUTTINGS OF HERBS

SpMr cuuings 2m
,
(5cm) <IJHU I
1
I ...-- - Hcoltf1y new
growtl1
I
Use ,oilless
pottmg ,nix

/11 spring, 1c1l1e 4in (JOnn) Fill a pot with t'qual pm1s flnn i11 gcnrfy ancl watt_
·r. Aflow \V/u·n well mo<ecl (us1111/ly <1fre,
1 cuuing~ (here of golden lemon
/](1/111) from h«1/rhy, nonflowc,ing
2 moist bm I: mul pcm. 1i im du:
basr. of each cu11111~j11sl bdow c,
3 rhc po< w clmin. 11,cn label ii.
Tf!H du: pol with a ckm· pfosric
4 about four weclis). lmocl:
rht new pl(IIHS mul gc11tfy tc(ISC
()IU

shoors of du.· neh• growth, cutting 1101k. 1lic11 s1ril' off all /ml rlw "'I' bag supported 011 s1t1IH's to 11rt\'f't1l them a,xu·t. Tr)' lO lwt'fJ lht· medium
ju)l above c1 ,wclc. To p,evt'IH the 1wo o, rh,ct.· leavcs. 1Hsc_·11 ll1r co11wcr wirh rhc k<1vcs. Keep the arowul rhc· roors inracL Pot cacl1
fravesfmm losing nwisum·, plact• cuttings III thr mrclium .so tJwt rhc cu11in~~ iu a ligluly :,ha<lctl 11osi1io,1 Culling indiviclualJy i11 (~ put ½in
rhc cuuings in wmer. ka,1('S arc jusr above tl1e su,fcrcc. t11 <1bo111 68' F (20 C). (I c,11) lcu-ger 1ha11 llu• .-.u,1 ball.

287
VEGETABLES
TAKING ROOT CUTTINGS OF HORSERADISH
/11 S/ll'ing. lift Cl hcaltl1y pla111.
1 wiling ewe not to dcmwgc rhf
roms. Cut off om· or two ln1grhs
<111101. (,-12i11 05-JOcn,) long.
TAK ING CUTTINGS OF MlNT RHIZOMES
1,cm rl1 itcm1c.) of hc,b) s.uch
1 cl.) mint mot ruuings.
<b
plwtt mid .stkct thot
rlti:;:omt·s
Lift the
hm•f
11k11t\' oj grow1l1 huds. Di,•iclr 111011
i11w J Y.- 3in (4-8cm } !-f'Ctit>ns.
S EMl•RIPE CUTTINGS OF HERBS
Herbs s uch as hyssop or rosemary may
be rooted rrom cuuings taken rrom new
shoots that arc semi-ripe, 1ha1 is, no
longer soft but firm and s tarting 10 turn
brown . Prepare them as for sor1wood
cu uings (sec p.287). Tender herbs such
as bay root more successfully if provided
with bouom heal of 64°F ( 18°C) and
high humidity - a heated closed case is
ideal. The cuuings will be in the same
medi um for longer than softwood
cullings, so use a very free-draining mix
of equal parts peat , fine grit o r pcrlite,
and fine ba rk.
Spra)' the cuuings every morning and
afternoon for the firs1 week. Never spray
at night, because the lower temperatures
mar encourage rot or powdery mildew
on the wet leaves. Rooting medium is
low in nutrients, so give a foliar feed
once a week when the cuuings show
signs or roo1ing, usually in 4-8 weeks.
As fo r all cuuings, do 1101 test for
rooting by tugging, because this may
disturb the culling at a crucial time.
Instead, check for new roots showing at
the base or the container; alternatively,
wait for new shoots to appear.
288
,\lrd111m cif r,11101 I"""
1>1·m mid/hu· bm J,
2in (5,111) cdis
Slin· thr mots into ½in ( I cm) \Vl1n1 the c11tl i11gs hm·f good
2 sc·rtions (sec msct). tnsrn
each c1111i11g J-2½i11 (2.5-6011)
3 root svsrrms. u-,m~pl<mt to
thci, final pc1::,itim1~. I/old b_r tlw
ckfJJ i 11 Cl ptqJ{IICd cdl fHI\'. kmc·s wul plmu m rhc snmr dqnh.
tvfollt' lwlfs i11 a 1n·tparcd pm Plan· tht~cuttings in a \\tffm,
2 ah1,ut tin (2.5nn ) apart.
ln:.-.crt the fUHiug:.,, (sec inscl )
3 briglu mt·a. A~ growd1suu rs,
w<Uc, with <-I Jiquicl Jcrtili~cr: \\'hc11
,•r, rfrcrll\' mul CO\'tT with X i11 llicy hm't' wmt•d (sec mset), h1wdt
(5mm) of mNli11m. Firm and h'llt(_•,: diem ()Uf t>} 111c J)Ol (111{1 lf(ISC <IJ){IH
In colder climates, once the)' are rooted,
harden off the cuuings. Bring them , in
stages over 2-3 weeks, in10 sunny, ai ry
conditions, then pot singly in soil-based
polling mix (see p.34). Label and water
well. When the cuuings are growing
well , -1-5 weeks later, pinch out the
growing tips to make them bush out and
become s1rongcr. Allow the new plants
10 establish and thorough ly root down
in the pols before planting out.
ROOT CUTTINGS OF HERBS
This method is suitable for herbs with
thonglike or creeping roots, such as
horseradish, or rhizomes, such as mint.
Take the root cuuings in spring or
autumn. First prepare a con1ai11er with
some rooting medium of one pan fine
bark and one pan peat and firm to just
below 1he rim. \.\later well and al low 10
drain while preparing the cuuings.
Lift the parent plant and remove
s01ne healthy roots. For mos1 herbs,
includ ing mint (see above), they should
be of average thickness. Most cullings
are prepared b}' dividing 1he roots into
l ½-3in (4-Scm) sections, each with an
angled cul at 1he base (see box above).
TRIMMING OTHER
ROOT CUTTINGS
,•
, ,,"' •
{
'
•
' l
To distinguish the ends when
ralting rc>ot nwings. nialtc a
stioigl11 cut new the crown mul
<m <mgJcd cur nrar d,,. ,um lif'.
HolcJ tutfmg
b, 11\ km 1·,
Pot the cuttings si11glr into
4 a bcu It <tml pccu ,11i,,. \\kun in.
lcihd, ancl km c u1 c~ warm, bright
plllrt· unril h('lf t·swhlisht·d and
fcad) Jm plmuiug 0 111.
Rhizome cuttings sho uld have at leas1
one growth bud . Insert them vertically
with the bud toward the top, l-2'/2in
(2.5- 6cm) apart. Horseradish roots do
1101 have visible buds but root readilr
wh ichever wa)' up they are, so they can
simpl)' be sliced into small sectio ns (sec
above) . \.Yater the cuuings, then label
and date them: this is i1nponan1 with
root cuuings, which cannot be
iden1ified until the)' have grown on.
Keep the cullings in a bright place at
50°F ( 10°C) or above, such as under the
greenhouse bench or on a windowsill ,
but not in direct sun light. Do not water
until new roots or lopgrowth appears
(2-3 weeks), then appl)' a liquid feed.
Root cullings often produce shoots
before roots, so check for good root
growth before pouing the cuuings.
In colder climates, s lowly harden
off the cuuings once the)' are rooted
b)' puuing them outside during the day
and into a cold greenhouse at night. Pot
them in a soil-based polling mix once
the}' are weaned, and water well. Omit
this stage if the cuuings were rooted in
cell packs. Treat the cuuings therearier
as for semi-ripe cuuings.

DtV!SlON
Perennial herbs lend 1he111selves 10
being divided, once the plan! is well
esiablished. It is a silnple 111e1hod of
propagating a fow plan15 a1 a 1i111e.
Division res1ric1s the spread of 1he plant
and keeps ii healthy and vigorous, thus
producing lois of new growth thal can
be used in 1he ki1chen; il also prevenlS
shrubby herbs from becoming 100
woody. This technique is good for
fennel, French larragon , lemon balm ,
lovage, mini, oregano, and thyme.
Herbs shou ld be d ivided ei ther after
nowering in late summer or in early
spri ng. The best time is when growth is
mini111al, and in warm, mild wealher lo
avoid cold damage. lt is i1nportan1 not
to al low lhe roots 10 dry ou1, so the new
divisions shou ld be replanied as soon
as possible. Before dividing the plant,
therefore, dig over the planiing site,
111ake sure it is free of weeds, and add a
handfu l of general-purpose fenilizer.
\Vhen you lift the plant (see below),
remove all the roolS, because any piece
left in 1he ground may produce another
plant. This is panicularly im ponan1
with invasive planlS such as horseradish
or 111in1. Wash ihe roois to make il easier
LO disentangle 1hem and divide 1he plan t
(see below). Small or herbaceous planis
ma)' be pulled apan, but larger or
DIVISION OF HERBS
111 late swnme,: after flowering. choose
1 a vigorous, mcHurc pla111 (hen~thyme).
Lif1 1l1e plant wi1h c, garden Jorlt, tailing
cc,re no, to clanwge the roob.
If 1he parent plant has plenty of top-
3 g,·owth. Him ir bacl: witl1 pr1111«!rs 10
about 4i11 (10cm) to minimi::-e moist ure
loss throug!, 11,e leaves.
woody clu,nps will need to be cul into
pieces, using a clean, sharp knife or
pruners. Make sure 1ha1 each sec1ion has
a good root sys1e111, and discard any old ,
woody, or very congested sections.
Replant the divisions i111111edia1ely
(see below). Water thoroughly, even in
damp wealher. Keep the planlS weed-
free and well watered until esiablished.
S EPARATING HERB SUCKERS
Woody herbs such as bay so111e1imes
send ou t offshoolS, or suckers, from
1he roolS. These should be re111oved in
spring, because they will spoi l 1he shape
of 1hc plant. If 1hey have roots, the
suckers can be potted and grown o n.
To detach a suckering shoot, scrape
back 1he soil 10 expose the base of ihc
plant and carefully pull off the long
suckering root where ii joins 1he parent
plan!. Cui back ilS main rool to just
below 1he fibrous, feeding roolS. l f there
are several shoois on the sucker, divide
the 111ain rool so 1ha1 each shoot has
its own roolS. Cul back the topgrowl11
b)• about half, then pol each sucker in
soil-based potting mix , and allow to root
in high humidity al 59°F (15°C).
Rooted suckers may be planted
outdoors in war111 climates. ln colder
climates, g row on under cover o r in a
sheltered spol and keep frost-free for
the first winier before plan ti ng oui.
Slwl,e off 11s n11,ch loose soil as
2 possible a11cl remove cmy dcacl lecwes
o,· stems. \Va.:.h the roots clemi i11 ,1 budter
of water or w,th a garden hose.
Divide the pfont i1110 snwller t'ieccs,
4 each wirh a good root system and
s1rong topgrowd1. C111 with dc,m, sluir1,
prnners or JJUII ll/Jarl by Jwnd.
CULINARY HERBS
L AYERING
If an herb has flexible shoolS growing
close 10 the ground, 1hey ca n be si1n ple
layered . This is a reliable melhod for
bay, sage, 1hy1ne, winier savory, and
trailing forms or rosemary. It helps to
cu l back low branches of ihc parent
plan! during winter to induce forma1ion
of vigorous shoots for layering. Prepare
1he soi l around 1he plan! where the
shoolS are lo be la)'ered during winter
or early spring by mixing in peal or
com post and fine gril 10 aid drainage.
Layer young, ripe shoolS in summer.
Each shoot to be layered is laid in a
trench in 1he prepared soil and pinned
down (see p.290). The trench is then
filled in and fir111ed well . Keep 1he soi l
111ois1 until the slem is wel l rooted;
usually this takes 2-3 111on1hs and is
accompanied by ne,• growth on the
shoolS. In aulumn, uncover the soi l
beiween the rooted la)'er and 1he parenl
plant and sever the shoot. All ow the
layer 10 grow on. Pinch oul the growing
lip from the layer 3-4 weeks later and
li rt if the roots are wel l advanced and
showing 1015 of new growth. Oihenvise,
leave il for anoiher year.
Plan! out each layer in prepared soil.
Label, waler, and allow 10 esiablish. In
some climates, il will be necessar)' 10
protecl the )'Otu1g (continued 011 p.290)
Before rrpf,uuing, dust tmy cut swftlces with fungicide.
5 Prept,rc a pla111i11g site tmd replant the divisions <H the
same depth as before, sp1,ci11g them s,,[ficicntly J<1r 111,11r1 10
allow Jot g,·owth. Finn, label, ,111<1 wtHer thoroughly.
289
VEGETABLES

S IMPLE LAYE RING HE RBS

Seit-rt" ~oung, hrnhl1v,
1 Jow-g,owing shoot (line of
nhc11w,y). 5tdf) tht' k,nrs (mm
<1lmut 20ht (50cm) of the stem.
,;tmting 4in 00cm) from d1r 1ip.
U.>we, dir :,lwm w du· gm1111d
2 wul mark 11s po,;ition 011 rhr
~uif. Dig <1 rre,,ch ,;fopi11g aw"y
Jw111 die l'lcmt rluu is 4-6in
( I 0- / .5c111) clrrp 111 1hr far t11cl,
Inv the srri]'('t'd ~rem "lcmg
3 1l1c bo)c of thr 1rn1d1. Srmuh
the Jmrh a littk m tht· poinr hhcrf
ir b(.'tuls. Pin the st<·111 agai11~, the
:.i,k u.f d1<· Cleuch with w1rl' staple~.
4 Fill tlU' trench wirh soil.firm
in. cruel labd \VC1tt·1 wul hccp
d1t• :.oil ,uobr. 1Ju.· stem .shoultl
prnducc mots lll the point when~ it
IJ1,11d,; (sec inset) aju·, J--1 wcch:..

(co111i1111ctl from p.289) layers of tender
herbs, such as bay, against cold and
drying winds with fleece or straw. For
this reason, i1 helps in cold climates 10
pol young layers as soon as the)' have
rooted in equal pans peat, fine gri t or
perlite, and fine bark , and overwinter
them in a cool greenhouse before
planting out in spring.
MOUND LAYERI NG HERBS
Th is technique is best used on specimens
of perennial herbs that are past their
best, such as rosemary, sage, lavender,
and winter savory, and is especiall)' good
for thymes, which can become woodr,
In the spring, mix some soil with
equal pans of peat and sand, then pile ii
over 1he plant (see below). If any soil is
washed away by rain , replace it. By late
summer, roots should have formed along
many of the stems. The rooted layers
can be removed and potted or plan1ed
out as for standard layers (sec above).
Dispose of the old plant.
MOUN D LAYERI NG
In spring. ,o encourage rh.: stnns w mm, mounrl
J-5jn (8-J3cm) of swuly s1,iJ onr '11e <rown of
1l1c plmu (loere 1/11•11I(') , so ilwt JU>l the tip, oj
the shoo1s nrt \•bible Keep the nwund watcrtYI.
In lme )tu1111u·r or (1Utun111, remove.· 1/u_
· i;oil cmcl
cut off thr root eel lavcrs (sec insc1).
S OWING SEEDS
Seeds of annual and biennial herbs,
such as angelica, basi l, bo rage, caraway,
chervil, cilantro, d ill, sweet marjoram,
and parsley, may be sown in containers
under cover or outdoors or in seedbeds,
depending on the climate. Perenn ial
herbs can be raised from seeds, but
vegetative propagation results in mature
plants more quickly. Many culinary
herbs arc species and, if grown apan
from other forms, come true from
home-gathered seeds.
G ATHERING SEEDS FROM HERBS
Gather 1he seeds for sowing as soon as
1hey ripen in the summer or autumn.
Bear in mind that cenain herbs may
cross-pollinate. When different cu lti vars
of lavender, marjoram, mint, and thyme
are grown near each o ther, the chances
or the plants naturally hybridizing are
high, and the seedlings will vary in
appearance and flavor. Closely related
species 111a)• also interbreed if 1hey
flower al the sa1ne 1imc; di ll and fennel
arc known 10 cross, resulting in an herb
wi1h an indete rminate flavor.
Seeds should be gathered as soon as
the co lor of the seed pod changes. The
seeds ripen ver)' fast, usually 10 a pale
brown color, so watch 1hem carefully.
To test if a seedpod is ripe, tap it gen tl)'.
If a few seeds scatter, it is time 10 gather
1hc111. Cut off the seedheads on their
stalks and dry them to extract the seeds.
Tic the stalks in small bundles: keep
1he111 loose so 1ha1 air can circulate
between 1hcm. ~Jang the bunches 10
dry thorough ly for up 10 two weeks in
a warm, but air)', dark place; do not use
an anificial source or heat - it may kill
so,ne seeds. Place a large piece of paper
or a sheet under the seedheads to ga1her
the seeds as they fa ll (seefaci,1g page).
Alternatively, the seedheads 1113)' be
enclosed in paper bags ( 1101 plastic ones,
which will make the seedheads "sweat")
o r in muslin (see f,,cin?, par.e) before
hanging them up. Store d ry seeds as
for vegetable seeds (see p.282).
S OWING HERB SEEDS
Sow herb seeds as for vegetable seeds
(see pf>.282-6) . Mos1 herbs germinate
at abou t 55°F (13°C). In colder regions,
sow tender herbs, such as basil and
cilan tro, in containers under cover in
earl)' spring or ou1doors in late spring.
A- Z OF CULINARY HERBS
A 'lC.I 11(,_ ,\ A N< ,M /( 1\ ·\R( lf,\NGM Ki\ (syn,
/\. oifici11(1/i,) Seed, viable for three months;
sow in autumn ouuJoors~ if the}' germinate
and die back in wime r, t hc)r will regrow
in spring , ,
J\ ,,~1 11\'SSOP AGAST,\CJJF I Of'llCI ,, I M (syn .
A. miismc,) Softwood cuuings in summer U .
DJVide in spring,. Seeds in spring or
autumn U.
n\SIL OcrML\f BASJLJCL ,,Sow seeds under
cover at 64°F ( I8°C) in late spring or
ou(doors at 59°F ( I 5°C) in early summer:
:,ccdlings taprootcd ~md prone to clamping
off; needs warm, sheltered site l ,
B\\ l.Al 1RlS ,omu~ Sem i-ripe cuuings in lale
summer or early aulunm~ root in high
humid ii)' Ul- Divide suckers in spring lU.
Simple layer in s1>ring JU, Surf.Ice-sow seeds
in autunm under cover wit h bottom heal of
64°F ( 18°C); kcer, j11s1 moist ; germi11a1ion
can take 10-20 clays or 6-12 monihs lU-
81 I UAL\1, BtR(j.\MOT M 0.\11\RDA DIDl'MA
Softwood cullings in early summer U, Root
cu11ings in spring U, Divide in early spring
U , Seeds wi1h hmtom hca1 of 64°F ( 18°C)
in spring o r ot11doors after frosts lU,
Boit.\<.,r 13UR-\GV o,,.rc 1N,\t1S Sow seed~
omdoo1·s in early to late spring. 2in (5cm)
dcq,; 1aprooted l-
CARA\\ 1\, C,,RU,\1 CAR\'I Sow seeds in early
autumn in cells or pots; for root crop, sow
in d ril ls and thin to Sin (20cm ); bohs if
tntnsplainc-d late: dislike~ root <listurbancc ,.
CIIL:R\ ll /\ \ITHRISCPS ([RU-01 IV1\l Sow seeds

290
 CUL INARY HERBS

If Lhe seeds are very 11ne (such as

oregano seeds), use a piece of cardboa rd
folded in half. Put a small amount of
seeds in the fo ld and gently Lap the
cardboard 10 sow evenly. When sowing
dark seeds outdoors, pour a liule sand
into the bouom of the drill (see p.283)
before sowing. This makes it easy 10 see
Lhe seeds and avoids sowing 100 thick!)'·
Herbs from the carrot family, such as
caraway, chervil , dill, or parsley, as well
as basil and borage, have long taproots;
transplanting sets them back. Sow the
seeds direcL o utdoors or singly in polS
or cells 10 avoid disturbing them.
Seeds of most herbs germinate in a
few weeks. Wi th herbs that arc slow 10
germinate , such as bay, ch ives, fennel ,
parsley and sage, provide bouom heal of
64°F ( 18°C) in cool climaLes. Otherwise,
sow outdoors when the soil temperature
is above 50°F (10°C), and all risk of
frost is passed. Keep the soil moisL.
,, SELF•SO\VN SEEDLINGS
Many habs (line Chi nest· chives) sdj.sow in
Some herb seedl ings, for example
basil, o regano, and Lh)•me, are prone
, fa\lOJ t1bt«~ cmulit ions. Uft d 1nu wht.'11 d1cy m·e
forge rnough w lumdk. d1c11 rrw1s,,lmu.
lo damping off (see p.46). Keep the soi l
mix j ust moist, watering from the
' GA1 HERING SEEDS
bottom and never at nighL. Ripening srcdhea,ls arc bes, hung on their srams
Seeds of herbs used in quanLi ty,
such as basil or parsley, arc best so,vn
/ 11pside do,\n iu a wcum, tl,y. airy place. Lay
papc,· on the floor below or rndosc the seetllit>ads
in successive batches every 3-4 weeks. in elm/, w catch tire s,•e,ls as they Jarl.

a, 500F (10°C) in early 10 la1e spring;
taproOlcd (sec cdJO\'l') 1. Prefers scrni·shade.
C1-11v1~ Au 111,\1 SCUOEN(WR.A.1,1 'M Divide bulb
clumps in spring 01· au1umn (,cc p.254); plam
in clumps of 6-10, 6in (15cm) apart~- Sow
10-15 seeds per l¼i n (3cm) cell in spring
with bou om hea1 o f 64°F ( 18°C) ~-
C11.ANrRo CoRJANDRUM !>I\Tl\'UM Sow seeds in
early or l:He spring; dislikes excess moisture
or humicli1y; thin 10 2in (5cm) apan for leaf
crop (cilamro) or 9in (23cm) apart for seed
crop U, Try 'Morocco· for a seed crop.
DnLANETlfl 1,\J GRA\EOIENS Sow seeds in earl)1
spring or outdoors in late spring. shallowly in
poor soil, thin to 8 in (20cm); seeds viable for
three years; lapromcd *·
F1N1'M FOtNICl lVM \Utc,ARt
1 Divide
c,•cry 2-3 years in a utumn,. Sow
seeds in early spring in pots or cells.
cover wiLh pcrlitc; bottom heat of
59-70°F (15-21°C) helps: sow
outdoors in la te spring a nd thin
to 20in (50cm) ,.
H ORSCR.i\01$11 AR..\IORACM
(srn. C{)cl1lcw1a
RLISTtCAN1\
,mnorncia) Root cuuings in carlr .,
spring,. Divide dumps in spring •. ·~';.)
•t'.
or autum n !. Can be invasive. \If,'
t ~ ....
HYSSOP Hr~S0Pl1~ Orl-lC.INAU~ Soft- • spring with bottom heal of 64°F
wood or heel cunings in late spring o r after
floweri ng u. Sow seeds in spring with bouom
heat o f 64°F ( I 8°C) or outdoo,·s af1er fros ts!,
J UNIP[RjVNJP(Rl'S COM1\IUNIS Take softwood
cullings in spring o r scnn-ripe heel cuuings
in summer or autumn u. Sow seeds outdoors
in spring or autumn: germinates in four
weeks or in a year IU,
Lt\1(.)N BAL\! i\ltU5S,t ()fflU1'MUS Take
sof1wood cuuings in lale spring o r early
summer Jiil. Divide in spring or aummn l ,
Seeds in spring with minimum watering,.
LEMON \"ERUCNA Ar Ol'SIA TRIPHl'I.J.A Take
softwood cu11ings in late spring or semi-ripe
cuuings in summer u.
LOVAGE Lrvrsncu,, OfflCIJ\ALE Divide in
a utumn or springt. Sow seeds outdoors in
auttun n or in spring under cover with bouom
heai or 59°F ( I S°C) ,. Space 2ft (60cm) apart.
MINTS Mf:NTHA 'il'ECIES Take sortwood
cuttings in summer U, Take rhizome cuttings
in spring l , Divide in spring 1- Invasive.
MYRi IE Ml'kTll) C0,\1.\IUNJ) Trike softwood
cuttings in late spring or semi-ripe
cuuings in St)mmer U .
0RCGANO, MANJORA:1.1 01UGANVM VVlG1\RJ.·
Take sof1woocl cunings in
summer U. Divide in spring or
af1er Oowering , . Surface-sow
seeds in spring 1hinly;
gcrmina1ion often erratic,.
PAR',t I--\' PF I ROSI-UNU.\f CRJ)r'UM
•
Sow a nnual seeds in early
(18°C), or in la te spring 1in (2.5cm)
deep in ric h soil a1 59•F ( J 5°C): keep
moist; germina tion is slow i.
BORAGO OFFICINAUS
Semi-ripe
Ro.'!-H-uR,· Ro'.>MAIUNl!!i 01·1·1CINAUS
c uuings in late summer U, I lctl cu1tings in
:,pri11g 1. Simple or mound layer in summer ,.
5At.L S1U\'U on1<1NAt1:, Take heel or 6in
(15cm ) sofiwood cuuings in spring,. Simpk
l;-l)'er in summer after Oowering 1. Mound
layer in spring t Sow seeds of species only
in earl)' spring. covered wi Lh perlitc: bouom
hea, or S9°F ( I 5°C) is us.:fol ~.
SORREi_ Rl \f[X ACETOSA Divide in autumn,.
Sc.eels in spring or outdoors in midspring 1,
$\\ Lt I Cictu MlRRHIS OOORA"fl\ Take root
cuuings in spring or autumn j,. Divide in
autumn 1- Sow seeds outdoors in au1um n
or whncr: slow to germinate U,
$\\ EET MARJORAM 0RtG,\NU,\J MAJORANA
Sof1woocl cuttings a nd divisio n , as for
marjoram. in want'I climates. In colder
clinmtcs, sow as annual in spring,.
TARRAGO~ ARI F.\ltSIA f)RACUNCUI li!> Softwood
cuuings in sumrncr ,,. Take cuttings from
underground runners in spring after frosts,.
Divide mature plams every 2-3 years in
spring 1, French tarragon rarely produces ripe
seeds in cold climates, bUI Rus.,iiian tarragon
(subsp. dmcw1cu!oidcs) seeds freely i.
Tll\MES Tffl'.\IUS SP[Cf[S Take 2-3in (S-8cm)
softwood cuttings in late spring or summer t.
Take 2in (5cm) heel cunings in la1e spring u.
Simple layer in early a uLUmn o r mound layer
or
in spring 1, Surface-sow seeds T. ,•ulgc,ris
o nly, II\ spring wilh bo110111 heat or 68°1'
(20°C) or outdoors in late spring or early
summer al 59°F ( I 5°C) ,.

291
A- Z O F VEGETAB LES

A- Z OF VEGETABLES
INDEX TO MAIN ENTRIES ABELMOSCHUS OKRA
A'.:iPARAGUS see As p:.uagus SEEDS in ~pring j
set Phaseolus
BEAN SPROlflS ue Vigna Okra (Abelmoscl,us escule11u,s), one
BEU ser Beta of the podded vegetables in this tender
Bm, CHOI ser6rassica genus. is an ann ual. Soak bough t or
BROAD IU'.AN St't Vicia
BROCCOI I see Brassica home-gathered seeds for 24 hours before
!~RUSSI LS SPROUTS see Brassica sowing Lo aid germination. In warmer
BUTTER OCAN stt Phascolus regio ns, sow seeds thi nly in drills 2ft
CABllAGC stt: Brass,ca (60cm) apan when the soil reaches
CAROOON Stt: Cyn:tra
CARR01 SU 0.tucu s a temperature of 6 1- 64°F ( 16- 18°C).
CAUUI-LOWtR Ste Bmssica Thin the seedlings 10 Sin (20cm) apan.
CHICORY S('r Cich orium In colder areas. sow seeds in pots;
Cmu P1:r1•1:R sec O tpsictun germ inate under mist (see p.44) with
CHINES!: CABJJAGE su Omssica
CIUNESE ARTICI IO KF scr Stach ys bouom heat of 68°F (20°C) and 70 per-
Cl~LERlAC ste A1>ium cent humidity. Plant o ul under cover, SOWING OKRA SEEDS IN POTS
Cr1 ERY SU Apium preferably in low-nitrogen soil, in late Sow three~see.Yls w (I J ½'in (9c m ) JJOl. \Vlien llu:
COCOYA'\t sec Colocas ia spring 10 early s um mer, 16in (40cm) scctlli11gs l1(1ve 11,eir seed lcl,vcs, gently ,,ufl out
CORN see Zea
CRESS see Le1>idium apan and al the same 1empcra1ure and 1hc mosr kggy or cmy wec,I: set:tllings and k ave.~
CUCUMOER st:e Cucurni.s humidity. Harvest pods in 8-11 weeks. the sturdiest one to grow on.
EcGPLANr set So lanum
ENDIVE set Cichonum
FAVA ill:AN SU Vida
fLORl:NCI:. FtNNl"I. sec Focnicuhun ALLIUM O NIONS, S CALL IONS, S HALLOTS, L EEKS, G ARLI C
GARLIC see Allium
GHl:RKIN set C ucumis S EEDS from ~pri nt; 10 summer BULB ONIONS AN O SCALLIONS
GLOBE ARTICltOKE see Cynara S ETS frQm 1:nc winter to
Gooo KI NG IIFNRY see Chcnopodium :5pring Bulb onions (Alliwn cepa) can be raised
H 'l'AC INl II BEAN see Lablab C LOVES from w im er l O spl'ing from seeds, but sets (small , immature
ICEPLANT set Mesembryamhemum bulbs) are often 1norc successful because
jfRUSAU!M ARTICIIOl<l: sa He1ian1hus The vegetable all iums the)' arc less d isease-pro ne, 1olera1e poor
KAIE see Brassica include bulb onions, soil , and ma)' be sian ed before o nion
su PhaS(':olus
Ko 111 RABI 5ft Brassica scallions , shallots, leeks, maggots are a threat. Some sets arc hea1-
LErK s.ee Allium Oulb onions and garlic. Mosily coo l- 1rea1ed Lo prevent bolti ng. Plant sets (see
LETTUCf su L1c1uca season annuals. LhC)' below) in loose soil: if iLis 100 firm , the
LIMA BEAN SU PhaS(':OhtS grow bcs1 at 55- 75°F ( 12-24°C) ; the rooLS wi ll push the sets out of 1he ground .
MFLON su Cucuznis
MUNG UF..AN stt Vigna
bulbs need full sun in late su mmer to Onions need a long growing season ,
MUSTARO SPROU IS ste 8r-.1sska early autumn 10 ripen. They also like so they sho uld be sown early. Sow seeds
NFW ZEAi.ANO Sl'INACII suTcnagoma a rich soil. Crop rotation is important, thinl)' in drills in spri ng o r under cover
0CA su Oxalis because they suffer from soil-borne in seed Lra)'s or cells fro m late wi nter to
o,.. su Abelmoschus
ONION SU Allium d iseases such as while ro1 and neck rot. earl)' spring. They can also be sown in
ORAClt see AlriJ>lex
P i\RSNIP sec Pastinaca PLANTING ONION SETS
PEA sec Pisum. As soon as Draw 1hc soil
Pr..ANVT
POl'ATO
set' Arachis
stc Solanum 1 soil conditions
allow. nwlu:
2 gently over
PUMPKIN St't Cu curl)ll:1 1hr sets and fi rm
RAOICCHIO su Cich orium shallow drills, so that the tips
RA01St-1 su Raph:mus J Oin (25c m) are j ust visible.
R HUBARB sc·t Rheum
RUNNU BtAN sn- Ph aseolus <tl'an. Push the 'frim off any dead
RUIABAGA sec 13mssica sc1s gently into fo liage or stems
SAL!tlt-'11' su Tragopogon the soil. Space so that l1irds do
SCALLION set ,\Ilium them 4i11 (10cm ) not puH d iem out.
SCORZONERA set Scorzonera
Sl~KALE set Crambe <1/){U't , or 2in There is no need
5HAILOT ser Allium (5c m) if they ro water diem in
S l'I NACII see Spinacia arc ,,e,y smoll or unless the soil is
5 1'R0UTING IIROCCOU see Bmssica if small onions extremely dry.
5QUASII see Cucurbila
Swrcr P(PPER see Capsicum arc required.
$WFIIT POTMO su lpomo~ ,
Swiss CIIARO Set Bela
TARO see Colocasfa Sow onion seeds rhinly iu
TOMAl O su Lycopersicon
TURNIP St:C Br.'lssica drills, and thin according
\ VA i 1:.RCRtsS see Ro rippa to the desired size of
\VATERMl:LON see Citrullus tltc crop: the close,· tlie
\ VINTl:R PUltSLA~'E see Mo mia spacing, t11c smaller
Z UCOIINI see C ucurbila
tl1c mmmr: bulb. Here,
For 01hcr, less common \lege1able crops, seedlings were thinnccl u,
sec Lite sidebar list on p.309. l i11 (2.5cm), 2i11 (5cm ),
and 4i11 (10cm ) i11te,.vats.

292
 A BELMOSCHUS - ALLI UM

ONION SEEDS AN D SETS

B ULU ONIONS SCALLIONS SHALLOTS L EEKS G ARLIC

M ETIIOO AN I) Seeds: hue wimcr to early spring. Seeds: early spring Seeds: earJy spring or Seeds under cover. singly Cloves: smgly in
TIMING or late summer lo overwinter U to summer: l:nc late summer, or muhiblocks: mid~to cells in autumn or
Sc1s: late wmtcr 10 early spring summer for Se1s: autumn 10 early lau: wimcr; Lrnnspfont spring: uansplan1
or autumn, overwintering U spring, early summer spring,
Hc:u-1rc~11cd sets: early or late Sc1s: late winter 10 Seeds OUldoors: early 10
.:,.pring! early spring l midspnng,

$PACING OF Sl:.EOS Seeds: sow thinly; 1hin 10 desired I in (2.5cm) Seeds and sets: 6in Multlblock !1-CCdlings: 7in (18cm)
OR SUS spacing ( sct faci11g pagt) (15cm) 9in (23cm)
Small se1s: 2in (5cm) Single seedlings: 1-oin
Large sets: iin ( 10cm) ( 10-15cm)

$PACl-.:G OF ROWS Seeds and sets: JOin (25cm.) 8-12ill (20-30cm) Seeds and sets; I 2in (30cm) 7m ( 18cm)
8-12in (20-30cm)

SOWING OR S.cds: ½in ( 1cm) ½111 { 1cm) Seeds and sets: Seeds: %111 (1cm) I in (2.5cm)
PLANTING OllPTII S,as: 1-l½in (2.5--4cm) ½in (1cm) Seedlings: 6-Sin
(15-20cm)

TIME UNTIL HARVES'I' Seeds: up LO 42 weeks 2-10 weeks; over Seeds: 4 2 weeks I6-20 weeks; can be left 16-36 weeks
Sets: 12- 18 weeks winter 30-3.5 weeks Se1s: 16 weeks to stand over winier

muhiblocks, six seeds 10 a cell (see S~lALLOTS LEEKS

p.286). For successive crops, sow every
two weeks. Destroy infested plants or
dust drills with an insecticide 10 control
onion maggots. To gather seeds, leave a
few vigorous plan ts 10 nower in autumn
o r Lhe following spring.
Scallions arc cuhivars of bulb onions
1ha1 are harvested as young plants. Sow
as fo r bulb onions, or plant sets and
harvest in a few weeks.
PLANTING GARLIC CLOVES
PREPARING GA RLI C CLOVES P,y a/Jar! the
bulb into cfovt·s with your ilwmbs. Clean off
loose runics an,I cliscw'd any cloves rhar show
signs of disease, such llS rot. Each clove sl,011/tl
retain a piece of basal />l<lte (see inse1).
Shallots (Al/i um cepa AggregaLum
Group) are raised from sets in Lhe same
way as bulb onions and suffer from the
same pests and diseases. Remove loose
skins or leaves before planting the sets
10 avoid birds pulling them out If you
have heahhy stock, save your own sets
10 sto re over wi nter: they should be ¾in
(2cm) in diameter. Seeds may also be
available; sow Lhem as for bulb onions.
P LANTING GARLIC IN CELLS In <mlmnn, /Jlalll
garlic cloves singly i11 cells, Jin (2.5cm) deep
with basal 1,lates downward. Co,•er wi1h soil
mi.\', Keep cold over winte,: Transpln,11 in spring
when they stw·t to sprout.
Leeks (Allium porrwn) are biennials
grown as annuals, needing a rich, loose
soil high in niLrogen and a long growing
season. Sow seeds in d rills as for bulb
onions or in cells (see below) at 50-59°F
( I0-15°C). For large leeks with well-
blanched s tems, Lransplanl Sin (20cm)
tall seedlings in Lo deep holes (see below)
or trenches. Leeks are prone 10 1hrips
damage. To ga1her the seeds, leave a few
healLhy plants 10 nower in Lhe spring.
GARLIC
These biennials (Al/ium salivum)
need a long growing season and a
period of cold at 32-50°F (0-10°C).
The)' do 1101 like soils 1ha1 are heavy,
very cold, or high in nitrogen. For best
results, bu)' seed cloves suited 10 your
area and Stan Lhem in cells (see left).
Plant 1empera1ure-1aleran1 cuhivars
in spring.

TRANSPLANT ING LEEK SEEDLINGS

$ 1NGLI! Ll! EK
$1: El)LINGS
For well·blanched
lecl,s, mahe holes
6--8111 (I 5-20cm)
dee,, and 4-6111
(IO-l5cm) apan
and insert a
seedling i11 each
one so tlwr the
mots a rc in conrnct
MULTI BLOCKS Sow seeds in cdls,four w" wicJ1 the soil at the
cell. Trm ,splcmt each clump of seedlings into a bottom. \Vater in Scnllio11s arc best sow11 thinly. lf they arc sown
seedbed. Space thc c/11111/JS 9in (23cm) apcu·t, in and allow 1he soil densdy, rhin w Iin (2.5cm) apan to grow on,
rows 1hm arc J2in (30cm) apart. to fall i11 11au11·11lly. cmd use the th innings as salml vegcwbles.

293
A-Z OF VEGETABLES
APIUM C ELERY, CELERIA C
S EEDS 111 spring U (celery) IU (cekn'1cl
Celery (Apium graveole11s) and celeriac
(Apiwn graveole11s var. rar>aceum) arc
both biennial s tem vegetables and
temperate crops that ca n survive light
frosts. The)' prefe r a d eep, rich , moist
soi l and a g rowing temperature of
59-70°F ( l5-21 °C).
CELERY
The seeds need light and a minimu,n
of 59°C (I 5°C) tO germ inate and should
be treated with a fungicide to counteract
fungal leaf spots. For trench celery,
prepare a trench l5 in (38cm) wide and
l 2in (30cm) deep and work in manure
or compost. In warm er climates, sow
shallow!)' outdoors - trench celery in
single rows to faciliiate hilling up, o r
self-blanching types in a block (see
below) . Celery seeds may also be Ouid-
sown (see p.284). Thin out seed lings
with 4-6 true leaves to l5in (38cm)
S ELF-6LANCI-II NG CELERY SEEl)I.INGS
Plcuit mil cdc,y scl'dlings in o rich soil in lt1u·
sp, inx or ec,rly s1muncr: Pltmt sdj-blw1ching
cdc,y in l>lochs 9i11 (23cm) !).lflWri' to encourage
the SJrms to Mauch naturnll_v.
ARACHIS P EANUT
SEEDS in c:irly ,pnng Ul
Peanuts a re tender tropical annua ls
that require a g rowing temperature or
68-86°F ( 20-30°C) with 80 percent
humidit)', and a sand)', free-draining
soil low in nitrogen. Fenil izcd Oowe rs
produce shoots that penetrate the soil;
the fruits then develop into peanuts.
Rain or wate ring during Oowering will
i1npedc the poll ination process
and reduce the crop.
In wanner arc.as, sow
seeds singly outdoors 2 in
(5cm) deep, in d rills (see
/J.283) 3ft (90cm) apan,
with a minimum soil
temperature of 61°F (16°C) .
Alternatively, station-sow (see
p.284) 6in ( 15cm) apa rt. Thin
seedl ings 10 12in (30cm) .
294
ASPARAGUS
Seeos in spring 1
DIVISION in late winter or
carlr ~pring'
Asparagus (Asparagus
offici11alis) is perennial ,
with separate male and
female plants. It may be
d ivided, but male, Fl
spew, hybrid seeds produce
ver)• robust plants. Asparagus grows best
at 61-75°F ( 16-24°C) and needs cold
( EI.ERlAC SEEDLINGS IN A CEI I. PACK winters to induce a dormant period for
Sow ccleritrc in set·d trays or (tlls at c, minimum the plant 10 crop well in spring. The soil
1,·m1h~rcrturr oj 59°f (J5°C). TJ1in lO o,w st·tdling shou ld be low in nitrogen, weed -free,
11t·r cell a11cl f1111dc11 uf{ 1i-<111spfa11t when llw free-draining, and no t in a frost pocket.
scrdli11gs an· .3- 4in (8-l Q c11,) w/1 (ltu/ lun•c ,ix If necessary, grow asparagus in a raised
or sn·t·n lt-m•es. bed (see p.283) to improve drainage, and
add lime 10 acidic soils.
apart for tre nch celery or 9in (23cm)
apart for self-blanching. ln colde r regions, SEEDS
sow indoors: under mis1 (see p.44) is Sow seeds tin (2.5cm) deep and 3in
best. Do 1101 sow too early; seedlings (8cm) apart in rows 12in (30cm) apart
ma)' bolt if the temperature falls below (see p.283). Transplant 1he largest as for
50°F {10°(). If sown in tra)'S, transplant c rowns (see below) to their permanent
the seedlings whe n each has one true posi ti ons in the following spring.
leaf into to 2-3 in (5-Scm) cells. Once Alte rnatively, sow in cells in early spring.
they have 4-6 true leaves I he)• ma)' be
transplan ted outdoors if all risk of frost DI VISION OF AN AS PARAG US
is past, in late spring or early s ummer.
Protect with Oeece if necessarr
C ELERIAC
Celeriac has a bulblike swollen stem
and requ ires the same condi1ions as
celery bu t can survive l4°F (- l 0°C) if
protected by straw. It needs a six-mon th
growing season for the stem to develop.
Sow the seeds in cells (see above) or in
trays as for celery. When they are 3in
(8em) tall, harden off (see p.286) the
seedlings and transplant outdoors. Space
1hen1 12-15in (30-38c1n) apart and take
care 1101 to bury the c rowns.
hr fcuc winter or early spring. when 1J1r buds
1 <u-t ju!'.t de,•clol'ing mul Inforr tJic new root
growth hcgius in e<,rncsr. (t,refully Jift thf crown
with a Jori,. Slw/ic off ,my c.~ccss soil.
In colder climates, sow indoors in 3'/2in
{9c,n ) pots or in cel ls to germinate at
68°F ( 20°C). Leave the con taine rs in a
sunny spot and cover wi1h a plastic bag
or place in a closed case 10 maintain the
humidit)'· Transplant the seedlings into
a gree nhouse bed when the seedlings
are 4- 6in ( 10-l5cm) tall , spacing as
for outdoors. Begin hilling up when
the seedlings are 6in
(15cm) 10 obrain a
c rop in 16- 24 weeks.
G ATHERING PEANUTS
1/arvcst 1hr /JOds 16-20 ·ro prl·vcnt rm Jmm sell ing in. cut mvc,y any
weells (iftcr sm,1h1gfor upri~hr
types a11d 3-4 1vccf1s foterfor prostrate
3 damaged, <lisrasetl, or old growllr from r.c1cl1
secrio11 wid1 n shar11 lmife. U,hc gre<H <are nor
t)'/JfS. Allow tl,e sreds to dry i11 1f1c J)O(IS, w tl<mwge or cut into die bu els. Dig ,1 l rc11d1
then shell them cmd store iu a dry plare. I 2i11 (30cm) wicle (1111/ 8i11 (20cm) a,'C/J.

al 55-61 °F (13-16°C); transplant as
for crowns (see below) in earl)' summer.
Allow plants to build up vigor, then
begin 10 harvesl after two years.
DIVISION
Asparagus beds last 20 years if left
undisturbed. When lifted, cro,vns will
suffer a check in growth and cropping
bu!, if needed, crowns of three )'Cars or
more may be divided (sec below). With
mature plants, 1akc divisions from the
edges in early spring before new growth
appears, and discard l he woody center.
With all division, take care not 10
damage 1he flesh)' roots, and never allow
the crowns lO dr)• out. Always replant
divided crowns in a new site 10 avoid
soil-borne diseases such as root rot.
Placing the crowns on a ridge of soil
provides extra drainage, helps prevent
rot, and ensures belier con tact with the
soil. Mulch after replanting to retain
moisture . In warmer climates, cover the
bud tips with 2in (5cm) of loose soi l to
prevem drying out. Divided crowns
should provide a crop in two )'Cars.
CROWN
P,y c,pc1rr rhc c,own wirh your thumbs into
2
ncct·ssm) cut
1,
etlch with
S<'cfions.
through
lll le<l.\t
the cmwn
our good bull. If
with a slw11>
lmifc before gently teasing "fl""' the roots.
\Vork i11 Jin (8nu) wdf-rour<I manure
4 anrl IO/> with 2in (5cm) of soil. MC1'1r" 4in
(10cm) high ,iagc <1long the center of the 1rrnch.
S11acc the crow,b on ii. J2in (30cm) <11uu-r. CtJvtr
with soil so tlwt mily the bud lip~ mt' visibk.
APlUM - B ETA
ATRIPLEX ORACH, MOUNTAIN SPINACH
SEEOS from carh -.prin~ 10 l:uc ,ummf."r U
Orach (Atriplex ho,rc11sis) is a fast- so is best sown direct outdoors from
growing leaf)' annual that self-sows early spring. Make successive sowings
freely. A deep, rich, 1nois1ure-retentive every 2-3 weeks during the growing
soil gives best results. Orach grows best season for a continuous crop. Sow seeds
at a temperature of 6l-64°F (16-18°C). thinly in drills (see p.283) 2ft (60cm)
It bolts and self-sows in hot weather. apart. Thin the seedlings 10 l 5in (38cm)
apan. Orach is anacked by slugs and
SEEDS snails; conirol 1hem (seep. 4 7) when the
Fertile seeds are enclosed in papery seedlings arc small and ,•ulnerablc.
bracts; those without bracts are infert ile. Water copiously in summer, especially
Cut off seeded stalks for drying (see in dry conditions. Harvest the young
p.282). Orach docs not transplant well leaves after seven weeks.
B ETA BEET, CHARD
$EEO$ m -.pring t
This small group of vegetables, derived
from Beta vulgaris , includes the leaf)'
vegetables known variously as Swiss
chard, seakale beet, spinach beet, and
silver beet, and beets (Cleta vulgaris
subsp. vulgaris), grown for their swollen
roots. They are all biennials, but beets
are grown as annuals.
L EAF BEETS AND CHARD
Chard is a "cut and come again" leafy
vegetable that comes in white-, yellow-,
and red-stem1ned cultivars. 1l is hardy 10
7°F (- J 4°C) and grows best at 6 l-64°F
(16-18°C). It is bolt-resis1ant in the
first year if so,vn after rnidspring and
will withstand hot weather if it is
well watered. C IIARD
Sow the seeds in midspring in drills f ht' lnif and ,;;fnH color \mil''i g,ratly ,, ith 1hr
(see p.283) 15in (38cm) apan. Thin culril'CII (line 'Rhubarb Chard'). Cht1rtls """
the seed lings to 6in ( 15cm) or up arhcr lnif brcb cw1 scrYt" doubk l'"'lH.>st·
to 12in (30cm) if larger plants are as v('gcr<1hles and also lb 1111 m "1u1111t11wl
required. Sow in early autumn for t wp g,owu in o l>oule,.
an early spring crop; these crops
tend to go to seed in mid- to 8 1, ET SLEDS
late spring, depending on the [kct ~crcls till.' u,;1,all)1 mufligrnn;
temperature: Lhe cooler it is,
the slower lhey arc to bolt.
each 1s n:cdly a clusie, of sn.Yh wul
produces c, dump of ~crclli11g!>, Thin
B EETS
tcffli w V II(' St.'cdlingfor a rl'gular
crop en letnt muhinnrd w _fonu h<rb~
Beets grow best in cool, even hefts. os for muhrblork sowing.
te1nperatures, ideally around I 6°C
(61°F). Most cuhivars have multi-
germ seeds (see righr). There are also
some monogerm cuhivars, which have
single seeds.
Sow lhe seeds outdoors when the
soil temperature is at least 45°F (7°C)
after washing them (see rigl11). Space
the drills 12in (30cm) apart, and thin
the seed lings 10 3-4in (7-IOcrn) apar1.
For earlier crops in colder climates, sow
in earl)' spring under cloches or in the
greenhouse in cells (see p.285), and PREPARING BEl' T $1:EDS
plant out the seedlings when they arc Tc, cncournge mpicl grm1inmio11, pl<1cc tltr
2in (5cm) tall. For a continuous crop,
sow seeds at three-week intervals until
111ultigcrm beet scc.:d.s i,, a sievf "ml rinse tl1('U1
,Jiomughly u,1,ler cold running watt:r bejon-
midsummer. Beets should be ready 10 sowmg. This rcmo,•t s rhc chemicals thm inhibit
harvest in 7-13 weeks. gcnuinarion. Sow die seal.\ immtdicudy.
295
A-Z OF VEGETABLES

B RASSICA CABBAGE FAM ILY PL,\NTING DEPTH

Seeos ! (nuabag~, !U
The brassica family
includes a wide range
of biennial vegetables;
some are grown as
annuals or biennials
for the shoots or
Purpk-hc,dcd nowerheads, others as
cauliOowcr annuals for the leaves
and roots. Most are cool-season c rops of
varying hardiness, with many cultivars
for different seasons. They perform
bad ly and usually bolt quickl)• when
temperatures exceed 77°F (25°C) . In
mild zones they can be grown almost
all )'Car, but in hot climates onl)• during
coo ler weather. Stored seeds remain
viable for several years but need to be
grown in isolation to come true.
Leafy brassicas prefer a firm soil and
need high levels or nitrogen , but freshly
manured soil causes lush, disease-prone
gYowth. Crop rotation (sec p.282) is vital
to avoid a buildup of clubroot. If this is
a problem, lime the soil and sow seeds
in cel ls tO give the plants a health)• start.
Leafy brassicas ma)' be sown with root
crops or catch crops such as annual
herbs or lettuces (see p.285).
BRUSSELS SPROUTS
Cultivars (Brassica oleracea Gemmifera
Group) are sown from early to late
spring, depending on whether they
maLurc in late autun1n. midwinter. or
early spring, or in summer in warmer
climates. Early types are less hardy,
but late crops survive l4°F (-10°C).
Sow in cells (see p.285) o r a seedbed (see
p.283), under cover for earliest sowings.
Transplan t dwarf cultivars 18in (45c1n),
and tall ones 2ft (60cm), apart in early
summer. Keep n ew plants moist until
established and control downy mildew
(see p.47). Harvest in 20 weeks.
CABBAGE
Cabbages (Brassica oleracea Capitata
Group) prefer 59-68°F (l5-20°C), but
the hardiest withsta nd l4°F (-l0°C) for
a short time. It is vital to sow cultivars
at the correct 1i1ne for the expected crop
(see cliarr below). Sow in cells (see
p.285) or a seedbed or direct (see p.283)
if conditions perm it. Transplant when
seedlings are 2-3 in (5-8cm) tall a t th e
appropriate spacings (see chart below).
Use treated seeds 10 protect against
clubroo1 or nea beetle. Protect seedlings
from cabbage root maggot, if needed,
with collars (see facing page). Keep
)'Oung p lants watered during dry spells
and spray if necessary.
BROCCOLI
This (Brassica oleracea ltalica Group) is
a cool-season crop and prefers an
average temperature be low 59°F ( 15°C),
but co ld may damage buds and )'Oung
flowerhcads. h does not transplant well:
sow 2-3 seeds at stations (see p.284)
or in cells (see />.285) and transplant
deeply. Spacing depends on the size of
head required (see cliarr,facing ,,age);
closer spacing produces smaller h eads.
CAULIFLOvVER
Success with caulinowers (Brassica
oleracca Botrytis Group) depends on
sowing at the correct time and avoiding
checks in growth, s u ch as from dry soil
or transplanting. It is vital to choose the
SOWlNG SPROUTS
\\'('( P"prr
10wd11
Linr a saucer about Sin (13cm) in tliamctcr
1 with /KlJJCr wwels. Arltl water to soall rite
l'"l'"'- 1hc11 dn1i11 off a11y execs,. Scalier the
seeds 1l,iddy Ovt'r rhe /Klprr. Lnbel and kovr iu
a C(JOI, bright l'lacc a, a maximum tcmpc,murt·
of 59°F (15°C) IO gcnni1101e. Cover loosely with
a dear plas1ic bag to retain m"isrure.
Plant brassica seedlings
ro cover most of the
SWIil, S(> that the lowest
le,wes tu-e just tdJove
tlie soil. The mature
plwu nwy orl1crwise
need sllll:ing. since dit·
ropgrow1h could be 100
hrnvy for a leggy sw/J,
10 s111,1mrr.
correct cultivar for the cropping season
(see cliart, facing ,,age) . In warmer
regions, sow main crops from miclsmnmer
to autu,nn , Seeds germ ina te best at 70°F
(21°C). Sow di rect in spring or early
s tnnm cr for baby vegetables, in rows 9in
(23cm) apart and thin 10 4in (10cm)
apart. Control downy mildew (see p.47),
especially on early sowings.
CHIN ESE CABBAGE
If sown in spring, Chinese cabbage
(Brassica rapa var. pel1i11e11sis) is likely to
bolt un less kept at 6$-77°F (20-25°C)
for the first three weeks. Most cuhivars
withstand only light frosts. It is safer to
delay sowing until early summer in
colder climates. Sow in rows (see p.283)
18in (45c,n) apart and th in plan ts to l2in
(30cm). Ch inese cabbage is very prone
10 clubroot. Harvest after S-10 weeks.
TJ,c scccls shoulcl roo1 i1110 ,,,., paper. Cl,cc/1
2 dnily w ensure thar the paper is moist,
and wcrter tis nacSS<II)'. ge111ly J.Nmring w<Her
agai11s1 1l1c side of the S<mccr to avoid clisu1rbing
1he seecl/i11g roots. Allow ro absorb, 1/1e11 pour off
a11y excess after 011c hour: The srcdli11gs should
be ready w l,arves1 i11 7-10 clCl)'S (sec above).

SOWING CA BBAGE SEEDS

\VUFN IIAtWESn!O SPRING EARI.Y SUMMER SUMMER AUTUMN W INTER WINTER
(FOR STORAGE) (TO USE flRESH)

TYPE 01 CABBAGE Small, pouned or Large, mainly Large. round heads L1rge. round he:1ds Smooth, while• 81ue•green and
round heads or round, ht-ads (includes red leaved heads Savoy
loose. leafy greens cabbage)
\Vtn:.N TO SOW L1te summer to Late wrn1cr to ~rly E.1rly 10 mid· Late spring 10 early Spring ~ Late spring 10 early
early autumn, Spring, spring , summer 1 summer!
SPACING OF PLA1''TS 9in (23cm) 15in (38cm) l51n (38cm) l5in (38cm) l8in (45cm) l8in (45cm)

SPACING Ot- ROWS 12in (30cm) 151n (38cm) l5in (38cm) l5in (38cm) l8in (45cm) l8in (45cm)

296
 B RASSICA

SOWlNG SEEDS OF CAULIFLOWER AND BROCCOLI

CAULIFLOWER (TO HARVEST IN DIFFERENT SEASONS) BROCCOLI SPROUTING
WINT(R
BROCCOLI
( rROST·fRfE ARCA$) \VINTER EARLY SU\ IM[R $U~1\1ER &- Al!rUM"
\ VHtN ANO \\'l-ltR.t L11c spring in Early summer Autumn in cold E3rly cultivars: Autumn or spring Spring 111 cells or
TO SOW seedbed l in seedbed l frame l spring under to summer in cells seedbed l
Midwinter in cover 1 <>rat !>lations i
wlrm green- Others: late spring Protect from fros1 ir
house i in seedbed l needed

'WttCN TO TltANSPLA~"T Midsummer Midsummer Midspring Early summer Early aulumn Early 10
midsummer

$PACING OF PL.ANTS 28in (70cm) 24in (60cm) 24in (60cm) 24in (60cm) 12-1Sin (30-45<:m) 24in (60cm)

SPACING OF ROWS 2Sin (70cm) ! Bin (45cm) 18in (45cm) !Sin (45cm) 6- l 2in (I 5-30tm) 12in (30cm)

'rl\113 l.JN'rll IIARVEST 40 weeks '10 weeks 16-33 wctks 16 weeks 1 1-14 weeks 50 weeks

M USTA RO AND SPROUTS

Sow mustard sprouts (Brassica hirta and
8. napus) on paper towels (facing page)
or in seed trays under cover at any time
for salad crop. From spring to early
auunnn, sow mustard in wide drills or
broadcast (pp.283-4) for a seed crop.
KALE, C URLY KALE, BORECOLE
Some kales (Brassicc1 oleracea Acephala
Group) su rvive 5°F (-15°C). Sow
summer-cropping ka les in early spring,
and autumn or winter crops in late
spring. Purple kale is best for late
sowings. Sow in cells (see p.285) or a
seedbed (p.283). Transplant seedlings
l2-30in (30-75c1n) apan in 18-JOin
(45-75c1n) rows, depending on the
cultivar. Sow dwarf cu hivars, l2-l6in
(30-40cm), in containers (see p.286).
Muhiblock sow for "baby" kales (p.286).
K OHLRABI
A c,ool-season crop, kohlrabi ( Brassica
oleracea Gongylodcs Grou p) grows best
TRANSPLANT lNG BRASSICA SEEDLINGS
C ONTROLLING \ VEEDS A good meiliod of
controUi11g weeds around yo1111g brc,ssica
seedli11gs is 10 cove.- 1he plo1 wi1h bioclegradable
brown p<1pc,: Cut slits lH ll1e required spacings
mu/ pla111 1he seedlings llirough 1/rc sli1 s.
at 64- 77°F (1 8-25°C). Young plants bolt
below 50°F (l0°C). In milder climates,
sow from spring to late sum1ner; in
hotter climates, sow in spring and
autumn. Purple types are best for late
sowings. Sow direct in rows (see p. 283)
l 2in (30c,n) apan, th inning seedlings to
l Oin (25cm) apart. In colder cl imates,
sow under cover in spring in gentle heat
and transplant seedlings when they are
2in (Sein) tall and pro1ect with cloches
or fleece (see p.39) if necessary. For baby
vegetables, sow in multiblocks (p.286) .
BOK CIIOI
In spring to autumn , sow bok choi
(Br,1ssica rapa var. chi11e11sis) direct (see
p.283) or in cells (see p.285), 10
germ inate at 59-68°F ( l5-20°C). Most
cultivars t0 lera1e cold down 10 23°F
(-5°C). Th in the seedlings to 4-l8in
( 10-45cm) apan , depending on the
cuhivar. Choose bolt-resistant cultivars
for spring sowings and cold-resistan1
ones for later sowings.
COLLARS FOR SEEDLINGS To preverll cablJ<1ge
mo, nwggmsfmm laying eggs lit the bases of
seedli11gs. c111 6i11 (15cm) s1111arcs of carpel
padcli11g. Mahe a sli1 i1110 1/oc ce,uer of each. Fil
each collar so ii lies Jim a11he IJ<isc of 1/,c srcm.
BABY TURNIPS
1i1mips are best
harvested young.
Sow die scctls in
muhi/Jlocl,s for large
numbers of small
rurnips (here white
turnips). Jlatvest when the
roo1s ,,,., 1he si~,· of" golf
bcdl. afler 5-6 wecl,s. Mc,hc
successive sowiugs cve,) 1 three
weclis in die gmwing season.
SPROUTING BROCCOLI
\'lith a long growing ,c ,
season, sprouLing broccoli
(Brass ica oleracea llalica
Group) needs a fertile soil. Sow seeds in
spring (see cliart above) LO harvest in the
following spring. In milder climates, sow
in late summer to autu1nn or winter.
Transplant 3-4in (7-18cm) seed lings
deep for stability (see facing page) and
stake on exposed sites. Purple cuhivars
are more prolific and hardier, down 10
l0°F (-12°C), than green ones.
R UTABAGA
Rutabaga (Brassica 11ap11s Napobrassica
Group) is the hardiest root crop and
prefers light, low-ni trogen soil. Sow seeds
outdoors at 50-59°F (l0-15°C) from late
spring 10 early sununer, in rows lSin
(38cm) apan (see p.283), thinning in
stages 10 9in (23cm) apart. As well as nea
beetles (use dressed seeds), cabbage root
maggot can be a proble m in many areas:
use collars (see left). Harvest in 26 weeks.
TURNIP
A temperate crop growing bes t at about
68°F (20°C), turnips (Brassica ra1Ja
Rapifera Group) tolerate ligh1 frosts.
Sow seeds under cover in late winter to
early spring for early crops, thinning 10
4in ( 10cm) apan, then successively sow
until early summer. Sow main crops
outdoors in late su,nmer and thin to 6in
(15c,n) apart. Harvest early autumn .

297
A-Z OF VEGETABLES
CAPSICUM SvvEET PEPPERS, CHILI PEPPERS
Seeos in ~pring U
Sweet, or bell, peppers
(Capsicum a,111uum
Grossum Group) and
1he ho ner chili peppers
(Longum Grou p)
are annual fruiting
Sw«1 pepper,, vegetables. Being
tropical or subtropical,
they require a minimum growing
temperatu re of 70°F (2l°C) and 70 per-
ce nt humidity, but fewer fruits set al
temperatures above 86°F (30°C). Chili
peppers are more tolerant o r heat.
Peppers are self-pollinating but are
aided b)' insect pollinato rs. If grown in
isolation, at a distance of about 500ft
( 150111) from other types, they should
come fairly 1rue from home-gat hered
seeds. In hybrid seedlings, the ho1
pepper gene is dom inant, so a sweet
pepper crossed with a hot pepper resullS
in a seedling that is a liule more fiery.
Dry the ripe peppers to ensure the seeds
are ripe before extracting them (see
right). Sto re seeds in a cool, d ry place.
lf growing peppers o utdoors, sow
seeds in polS in midspring, transplant,
and plan t 18-20in (45-50cm) apan in
CHENOPODIUM Gooo
Seeos rrom lnlc spring 10 c.trl)' summer j
0 JVISION in spring'
Good King Henry (Cl1enopodi 11111 bor111s-
henricus) is a perennial leafy vegetable
that crops for 12-20 years. It goes to
seed quickly so is best grown in pan
shade to slow it down. Sow in rows 18in
(45cm) apart (see p.283). Th in seedlings
CICHORIUM CHI CORY, ENDlYE, R ADICCH IO
Seeos from spring 10 nudwimcr j
This genus includes the leafy vegetables
chicory (Cichori11m intybus) and endive
(C. endivia) . All are gro,vn as annuals
and prefer a fertile, free-draining soil
that is low in nitrogen.
CH ICORY AND B ELGIAN ENDI VE
Sow ch icory as for lettuce (see p.303).
The sowing times depend on the 1ypc of
chicory - sow Belgian types in spring
or early summer fo r forcing; red
types (radicchio) in early to
midsummer; and sugar loaf
C U RLY ENDI VE
Endh•cs witl1curled lcm,es
cm: less prone w boll i11
hot wemher d1,m broad-
lcct,•etl escaroles.
298
EXTRACTING PEPPER SEEDS
early sum111er, or when warm enough .
If growing peppers under cover, sow
seeds in co ntainers (see p.285) at 70°F
(21°C) in early spring. Transplan t the
seedlings singly in to 2½-3½i n (6-9cm)
polS when 1hey have 2-4 leaves. At
KtNG H ENRY
(see p.285) LO 12-15in (30-38cm) apart.
Pick nower shoots as early as possible.
To divide mature planlS, dig up 1he
roots. Take well-rooted clumps from the
outside of the plant, which is usually
more vigorous, and discard the old,
woody crown. Replant the divisions
l 2in (30cm) apart in 18in (45c1n ) rows.
t)'PCS in summer. Sugar loaf cultivars wi ll
tolerate light frosts. Ch icory takes 8-10
weeks to mature. Lift mature Belgian
endive in autumn for forcing in pois.
ENDIVE
Endive is a cool-season crop, preferring
a temperature or 50-68°F ( l0-20°C). IL
survives some cold, but hardier types,
such as broad-leaved escaro les, will
survive l4°F (- l 0°C). If sown early and
exposed to temperatures below 41 °F
(5°C), endive is liable to bol t. Sow seeds
as for lett uce (see p.303) from
early summer o nward to
harvest in 7-13 weeks.
Endive is a useful
vegetable for
intercropping with
brassicas (see
pp.296-7) and other
long-tenn crops.
To c,1mc1 seeds (ht ,t of cl,i/i 11cppc,s)
1rcnwvc shaOls with ripl·frnits llwt have no
discolormion. H{lng in a briglu. airy place to
dry, wirh rrnys w1ckrnemh to ccitch cmy seeds.
After 3-5 w,Tks, thf d,ird peppers wiU swn
2 ro shrivel cmd rhc seeds wm be fully ri/1<"·
\Vear glo"cs ro protea tl1t sl:iu Jro,u st i11gi11g
d 1Uijuicc; do nm umd, your fact'. Cw Ol'l'II
each l't'JJl>t-r lengthwist. Scrnl'c out the seeds.
3-4i n (8-lOcm), plan t them 18-20in
(45-SOcm) apan in a greenho use bed
o r in grow bags, or pot into 8in (20cm)
polS. Harvest in 12-14 weeks. As they
ripen , fruilS change to red, yellow, or
purple; some arc best used green.
CITRULLUS WATERMELON
Seeos from mid-spring lO early summer U
v\latermclons (Citrullus lwwtus) arc
tropi cal annuals that require growing
te1nperatures of 77-86°F (25- 30°C).
They need fertile, sandy loam enriched
with well-roued manure and a general-
purpose fertilizer.
ln holler climates, sow seeds direct,
two per station (sec p.284) and 3ft
(90cm) apart. Thin later to the best
seedling al each station. To assist the
formation of fruilS, transfer pollen from
male to female no wers - fe,nale no wers
have a swelling, the budding fruit, al the
base. Harvest 11-14 weeks later.
In cooler climates, sow two seeds per
2½-3'/iin (6-9cm) pot (see p.285); they
should germinate at 72-77°F (22-25°C).
Select the best seedlings, thin to one per
pot, then harden off (see p.286) when
4-6in (10-15cm) tall. Transplant into a
sunny, sheltered spot after all danger o r
frost has passed, 3ft (90cm) apart. Plant
each seed ling o n a slight mound and, if
necessary, protect with neece o r a cloche
(see p.39) until well established. Remove
any covers at nowering Liine Lo reduce
humidity and encourage pollinatio n.
Watermelons do not cross with other
cucurbits; seeds should come fairly true
if parents are grown 1000ft (400111) from
other cultivars. Collect the seeds as for
111elons (see p.300); 1hey remain viable
for up LO five years.
 CAPSICUM - CRAMBE

COLOCASIA COCOYAM, TARO

DIVISION in spring iu
ClJTTINGS in spring u,
Cocoyams (Colocasia escule111a, syn.
C. a11tiquono11) are tropical perennials
with edible tubers that require growing
temperatures of 70-81°F (2l-27°C)
with humidity of over 75 percent. They
need a rich, very moist soil with high
nitrogen. Seeds are rarely available, so
propagation is usual!)' from existi ng
tubers or cuuings. Large tubers ma)' be
cut into sections, provided each portion
has a healthy dormant bud. In warmer
climates, plant tubers or portions of
tuber !Sin (45cm) apart at 2-3 times
thei r depth, with 3ft (90c,n) between
rows. In colder areas, root in S-12in
(20-30cm) pots of rooting med ium in
greenhouse beds or grow bags under
cover; damp down regularly LO keep
humid. If conditions permit, transplant
rooted tubers LO a sheltered, sunny site.
Alternative!)', force tubers into growth
in late winter (see below) and take basal
stem cuttings from the new shoots. Root
1he cu11ings in the same conditions as
for tubers. Harvest in L6-24 weeks.

TAKING BASAL STEM CUTTINGS OF COCOYAM

111 lmc winter, \Vl1en shoots lH'C
1 IWO·lhirtlS blU)'
l1c<1hl1y tubers in
2 4-5in (10-l2cm)
(i wit, c111 0111 fllCh one
box of moist peat. with a smc~II piece of
Keep inn bright tuber m the basf.
l'lacr m c, Plmu 0111 l8i11 (45cm)
minimum of 70°F apart in rows 3ft
(2l °C) in i5 pCI'· (90cm) aptl!'I "' iO"F
hun1icliry
Cflll (2/°C) 01' il>SCl'I ill
muit shoals a11pem: / Qjr, (25cm) /WIS.

CRAMBE SEAKALE
SEEDS in sp>'ing u,
CUTTINGS rrom late au1umn 10 e:ul)' winter
The stem vegetable (Crambe mcuitima)
in this genus is a perennial. IL needs a
deep and rich, slightly acidic sandy soil.
The seeds have corky coats that will
inhibit germination; scrape off these
coverings with your nails. Sow thinly
in drills (see p.283) or outdoors in
i
seed trays. Seeds germinate at 45-50°F
(7-10°C) slowly and uneven ly. Trans-
plant 3-4in (8-l Ocm) tal l seedlings.
General ly, root cuuings, or "thongs,"
are more successful (see below). Take
1he111 from healthy, three-year-old plants.
Lift the parent plant without damaging
the roots , then clean off the excess soil.
To avoid insening cuuings upside down ,
make a slanting cut at the bouo,n of
each root. Overwinter them in a frost-
free place before planting out in early
spring. Harvest )•Oung stems in the
second or third year. For a succession
of crops, take cuuings every third year.

TAKING ROOT CUTTINGS OF SEAKALE

Sekct roots {,bout the thidmess of n pencil. Cut the roots into J-6in (8- J5cm) .sections, Fill a 6-8i11 (15- 20cm) deep box wi1h
1 Using a clean, sharp lmifc. uwlle {UI angled
cut a1 1he bottom of f{jCh one. Remo,,e these
2 culling the 1011 of each one with a st might 3 4-5i11 (IO-l3cm ) of shar/J sa11d. l11ser11ht
cut {md the b{isc with a11 cmglcd cut. Tic the bundles angled ends down and not touching.
from tl,c molstoch, cutting straight ncross near cuuings inw lnuullcs of five or six with rnjfilj Completely cover with more saml. \\later and
the top of 1he roo1. Discard 1he olcl crow11. or twine. matcliing up straiglu mid angled ends. leave i11 a fros1-fiee, shady place 11111il spri11g.
Ouds grown
Cm·cfully lif1 \Vith thwub (md
cm IOU j(,r
Buds just 4 the cuttings when
rhe buds ore just
5 forefi11gc,: rub off
aU but the Sl m11ges1
begi,ming
w bl'rnl, bcgi1111i11g IO brttll, bud fro111 1hc top of
(sec left) i11 early each c1111i11g (sec
!iJJring. If 1l1ey are inset). l'la11t 01111l1c
allowed to gmw 011 cutti11gs 15i11 (38c111)
OVERGROWN GOOD
CUTTING CU17' lNG (sec far left), Ilic aJJarl i11 a 1>rc1>anxl
Jnuls wiJI ww.te bed so llw1 1hc buds
cue,'&)' iluu is needed arc li11 (2..5c111) below
to produce mots. the smfacc.

299
A-Z OF VEGETAB LES

CucuMIS cu cuM BER, SOWING CUCUMBER SEEDS

M ELON
S EEDS in i:,pring U

Cucumbers and gherkins (Cucumis

sarivus) and melons (C. melo) are all
tender, annual climbers gro" ~' for their
fruit crops. llilf up
~ct·dhng to
CUCUMBER AND G~IERKIN if
l'l('\'('111

These planLS grow best at 64-86°F gelling Jeggy

(18-30°C) and are damaged below 50°F
( L0°C). European or greenhouse
cuhivars that fruit without pollination
need a nighttime minimum of 68°F
(20°C). Soil should be moisture-retentive,
free-draining, and high in nitrogen and
organ ic matter. Seeds germinate at 68°F
(20°C) and seedlings transplant badly, so
direei-sow in wann climates. Sow each
seed '/.in (2cm) deep on a ,nound 10
keep the roolS warm and well-drained.
Space climbing types \ Bi n (45cm) apart
and bush types 30in (75cm) apart.
In colder climates, sow seeds in polS
or cells (sec above) and plant ou1doors
when risk of frost has passed, or at the
Sow seeds singly 011 1heil' sides i11 Jin (8011)
1 pms. half filled wi1)1 seed suil mix. Keep m
64-7/PF (/8-2l°C). 111 st·ve11 dc,ys, wloc11 each
seedling lws grnwn c,bove tl,e pot rim, fill in
with ,uore mix, rhcn wmc,:
same spacings in beds under cover.
Protect new planlS from wind and cold
(see pp.38-39). Harvest cucumbers 12
weeks after sowi ng; gherkins are ready
when they are J in (8cm) long.
M ELON
The various types of ,nelon need a fertile
soil with a high organic and nitrogen
I\ Jew wccl:s cifier sowing. dig (I hole I2in
2 (30cm) deep mul wide anti Jill with we/1-
rotutl manun·. Cover with a mow1d about 6in
( 15cm) !,igh of 111c11111l'e<l soil w l,elp d1·t1i1wge;
plm1L rhe seccllinx 011 top. Finn, label, mui wate,:
content and a growing temperature of
about 77°F (25°C). Sow the seeds as for
cucumbers, but spaced 3ft (90cm) apan
in rows 3-5ft (90cm-l.5m) apart. They
usually germinate at 64°F (18°C). In
colder climates, sow two seeds per Jin
(8cm) pot and thin out the weaker
seedl ing. Harvest in 12-20 weeks. Seeds
can be gathered from healthy fruit.

EXTRACTING MELON SEEDS

,
• ~'

I 'I
'
f,,
'
I
'

JUST RIPE ALMOST ROrrEN

Pich melons wltcn ,ipc. L..td,el and leave 1hem Scoop our rhe seeds into Cl sitvc cmd rinse Spread olll the seed.s to dry on pa1,er towels
1 in a cool. ,1,y place 111uil ulmos1 rouen w 2 off the pulp under n11111i11g wcuc,: If the 1>11lp 3 i11 a warn,. ai,y place Jo,. 7-10 days. Store
cillow 1hc seeds to conti11uc dpening. is left on rl1e seeds, it will inhibit gennina,ion. in a cool, dry place Jo, spl'i11g sowing.

CUCURBITA P UMPKIN, SQUASH, Z UCCH INI

Seeos from early to la,c

~... /
given in the chart (see right). Sow
spring!
seeds about \in (2.5cm) deep. Pumpkin
CucurbiLS are all seeds germinate more qui ckly if soaked
tender, annual , fruiting overnight before sowing. Protect young
~-~-'.·,··~> \
' . vegetables. They plants from cold if necessary (see
,t ' '. include sum1ner r>p.38-39). Mulch after sowing or
squashes and zucchini , planting out to keep moist. Cucurbits
Zucchini also called courgettes, are good for intercropping (see p.285)
now('r
(Cucurbita pepo), and with tall crops such as corn.
winter squashes and pumpkins (C. pepo, Cucurbits will cross-pollinate with
nu1Xi ma, C. moschata). They require the others of the same species. To keep
same soil as cucumbers (see above), but the seeds true to type (sec l'ight), tie
pumpkins and winter squashes prefer the ends or one female and several male
medium 10 high nitrogen levels. nower buds the evening before they
Generally, cucurbits are raised fro,n open, to prevent insect pollination. G ATHERING PUM PKIN O R SQUASfl SEEDS
seeds in the same way as for cucumbers. The next day, brush the stamens of Leave ripe. JJWUJ>llins or sq,wshes for at feast
Sow 2-3 seeds to a 2in (Sein ) pol and the male nowers over the stigma of the three weelis i11 a sunny, airy place ot about 70°F
thin to the sturdiest seedling before female. Seal the female nower until it (2J°C) to "/low the seeds to mature. \Vhen a
transplanting into 1noundcd soil (see withers, then label the resulting fruit fmit stal'ls to soften, cut i1 in half mul flicl1 0111
above). Or, in late spring, sow 2- 3 seeds clearly. The seeds remain viable for the seeds with a l111ife. lf needed, was!, off any
at stations (see p.284) at the spacings 5-10 years. flesh, tlien d,y 011 )>llpel' lmvels befol'e storing.

300
 CU CU MI S - D AUCUS

CYNARA CARDOON, GLOBE ARTICHOKE GLOBE ARTICHOKE OFFSETS

SEEDS in earl)' spring~
(cardoon)
(see p.285) in ea rly spring 10 ge rminate
!!opr-ing' (globe at 50-59°F (l0-15°C). If using home-
-• i7~/~ '
I ~

} ' • - ,,.
-~

\: I
DIVISION II)

artichoke!!-) gathered seeds (see below left), do 1101

try to sepa rate the seeds front the
( Cardoons (Cynara
·.
phunes before sowi ng them; just s pread
:' .l , I . carclunculus), grown for the,n over the so il mix. Transplant the
' lheir stems, and globe seedlings when lOin (25cm) tall. Harden
Globe artichokes (Cynara off (see p.286) in cold climates. Plant out
artichoke scoIymus) , grown ,or
t L11e in late spring l 5in (38cm) apart in 18in
immature flowerheads, are perennials; (45cm) wide trenches. Space the rows
they need an open si te with renile, moist 4ft (1.2m) apart to allow room 10 hill up
soil, plenty of well-roued manure or the stems as they grow. Harvest the
compost, and a growing temperature stems in the follo,ving year.
of 55- 64°F ( l3-I 8°C).
GLOBE ARTICHOKE
CARDOON
They are best divided because seeds do In SJ>r'i11g, sdccl <1 healthy sidcshnor wirh 2-J
Cardoons are best raised rrom seeds.
Sow seeds singly under cover in pots
not come true to type and seedlings may
be difficult to overwinter. There are two
1 lec1vcs and cut it awc,v from tl1e woody c,ow11
of the parent plant. Tcrlte w prc!lervc ,my
CCJrc
ways 10 divide an established plant. roots. 'fo avoid the ris/1 of mr, 1ri111 off rile old
EXTRACTING CARDOON SEEDS If leuuce root aph id is a problem , swllis w just above the yo1111g le<n•cs.
-. 41
t::,- •
'
., .• ..
~-,-.· .
taking offsets avoids transmilling them .
Take rooted offsets (see right) from the
edges of the plant because they are most
vigorous, and leave the pa rent plant
undisturbed. Replan t the offsets to grow
on , even those with li ttl e or no roots.
\'later them in if conditions are dry. In
co lder areas, protect offsets with Oeece
until they are established and with straw,
mulch, or leaves in the first winter.
Established plants may also be lifted
and divided like herbaceous perennials.
Using a knife, t,vo hand forks, or a
s pade , spli t the plant into 3-4 pieces,
each with at least two strong shoots and
some good roots. Discard the old, woody
crown. Tri1n the leaves on the divisions
Hm,g rile prichly flowcrl,eads i11 a l'"Pt•· i11 ""& to 5in (13cm) 10 reduce moisture loss
<1 w<1rm. dry ,,rocc. \Vl,en they arc cm11ple1eJy and replant as for offsets in a well- 5/){ICf 11,e offsets a1 leas, 2jl (60cm) "l"ll'r,
d,y, crush them firmly. using a hmnmc,: Piclt 011,
the plumes thar bear rhe seeds. Store i11 a cool,
prepared bed. Treat as offsetS until
established. The first Oowerheads may
2 will, 30in (75c111) /Jc1wee11 rows. tf rile offset
has Jew mots (sec insc,). bury tl1c Sh:m just
tl,y place unrif spring. Sow with the JJlumes. be cut in late summ er of the first year. dee1> cnougl1to ,1ecp it uprighl. \Vater cmd ltlbet.

D AUCUS CARROT
SEEDS from spring to late
SOWING CUCURBITA SEEDS summer!
GERMINATION Summer sqt1:.1sh and .zucchini: Carrots ( Daucus ca,·ota)
1 EMPERATURE 59'F (IS'C) are biennial root crops,
Pumpkins and winter squash:
68'F (20'C) grown as annuals on
light, fertile, low-
SPACINC.. 01' Bush cuhivMs: 3r1 (90cm) nitrogen so il. Begin
SEFDUNGS apan each way Carro, 10 sow (see p/>.283-5)
Trailing cultivars: 4-6ft
( l.2-2m)
when soil te1npera1ures
Pumpkins and winter squash: are above 45°F (7°C), under cover in
6-10r, (2-3111) colder areas. Sow seeds 1/,-¾in ( l-2cm)
deep, broadcast or in rows 6in (15cm)
IDEAi,. GROWING Summer squash and zucchini: apart Fluid-sow or use primed seeds for
1 tMPERATU RE 64-8 l'F ( l3-27'C) more even germination. Thin to 11/,-Jin
Pumpkins and winter squash:
64-86'F (13-30'C) (4-8cm), depending on the required
size. Round-rooted carrots may be
TIMI:. UNTIL Summer squas h and zucchini: multiblock sown (see p.286). Protect M UL1'1Ul.0CK CARROT SEEOLINGS
1V..R\l'ES I 7-8 weeks or when abou1 .fin the crop from carrot rust Oies with a I' lan( out clumps of seedlings wltcn 1l1cy cu-,, Jin
(10cm) long 3ft (90cm) fine ,nesh barrier or sow in (2.5cm) wll. Using" 1,la11ri11g bo,mt 10 111cas11rc
Pumpkins and winter squash: early su mmer, after the nies are active. accurately. plant clumps 9in (23cm) apart, in
12-20 weeks
Carrots take 9-1 2 weeks to mature. swggered rows 9in (23cm) apart

301
A-Z OF VEGETABLES
F OENICULUM FLORENCE FENNEL
Seeos from spnng 10 hue
smnmcr U
This annual vegetable
(Foe11iculw11 vulgare var.
dulce) is fairly hardy
and withstands light
frost. It grows best in
Florence a [ertile, low-nitrogen,
fennel moist soi l at 50-61°F
(10-16°C). T he seeds germ inate al
about 59°F (15°C). Sow older cultivars
a[ter the longest day of the year in
H ELIANTHUS J ERUSALEM ARTICHOKE
D IVISION in autunH\ '
This perennial tuberous vegetable
( Helia111hus wberosus) is very
vigorous. h grows best in temperate
climates in a range or soils, and it
can become invasive if left in place.
Li[t a plant in au1umn to select
healthy tubers. Overwinter them in
a box of peat to prevent drying out.
Divide large tubers (see right) and plant
in spring as soon as the soil is workable.
Choose the site carefully, since the
plants can grow to 10ft (3111) tall. \.Yater
in very dry conditions.
Mature tubers may be lifted 16-20
weeks iifter planting as requ ired: they do
not store well and keep best in the soil.
l POMOEA S\'I EET POTATO
SEEDS in spnng U1
T UBERS m spring U
CUTTINGS Ill s1>ring'
The tropical sweet potato (lpomoea
bawtus) is grown as an annual crop and
needs a high ly [enile, sandy soi l with
a high nitrogen level and a growing
temperature of 75-79°F (24-26°C). In
warm climates, it is best grown from
tubers or cuttings; in cooler regions,
seeds are the best optio n, but tuber
yields are smaller.
SEEDS
Sow seeds in S-lOin (20- 25cm) pots
to genninate at 75°F (24°C). In warm ,
humid climates, plant out seedlings
when they are 4-6in (10-15cm) tall .
In colder areas, grow on under cover at
77-82°F (25-28°C) with 70 percent
humid ity. Keep well ve ntilated. Harvest
the tubers 20 weeks after sowi ng.
T UBERS
Seed tubers must be "cured" before
s1oring overwinter. Lift the tubers in
au tumn and allow lo dry in the sun for
4-7 days at 82-86°F (28-30°C) and in
humidity of 85-90 percent. Cover them
at nigh t if there is a risk of frost. They
302
colder climates; otherwise, they will bolt.
Florence [ennel also bolts i[ checked or
lefr to stand . Station-sow (see p.28'1)
seeds l 2in (30cm) apart each way and
thin to si ngle seedlings. Sow bolt-
resistant cuhivars in cells (see p.285)
under cover in spring; harden off and
plant out in early summer. In warm
areas, sow direct in spring [or sununer
crops, and in late summer for autumn
crops. On light soils, lightly hill up to
avoid wind-rock. Harvest arter 15 weeks.
K,wbl>y
Smoo1h tube,,
·1· 11.~f(tll' ,....,,_ di\ idrd
1 rows 30-36in (75-IOOcm) apart; and
cultn cir
Cut m
JOilllS
- - "'-- - -
DIVIDING J ERUSALEM ARTICIIO Kf: TUUl:RS
St('<l tube, s lcu:ger dum c1 hcu Segg may be cur
i11w pieces, each with several buds (sec above).
Smaller tubrrs nwy b,· l'ltmtcd wliol,~. Plant the
tubers. buds u1>1><·nnost. 1-6in ( I O-l 5cm) tlce/1,
i11 IOh'S J2in (30cm) apcu·t. Label and wme, i,1.
can then be stored in shallow trays at
50-59°F (10-15°C) for several months.
In wann, humid climates, plant seed
tubers at the start of the rainy season. In
colder climates, plant them in spring after
frost. Make raised ridges 30in (75cm)
apa rt , then insert tubers 2-3in (5- Scm)
deep and 10-12in (25-30cm) apart.
Protect from winds if needed. Harvest
new tubers in 12-20 weeks.
TAKING S\VEET POTATO STEM CUTTINGS
Selec, young, healthy, vigorous slioois 011 a malurt plmu
1 anti c1111l1em offj11>1 <1/Jo,•c C1 lccifjoint. PIC1ce the shoots
i,1 a plastic l,ag lO reduct· moisture loss. Prepare th£'
cuttings inunedi«1dy; if 1l1ey wHt, d1ry wiU 11ot mm.
L ABLAB HYACINTH BEAN
SEEDS in spring U
CUTTNGS in spriog U
,
The hyacinth bean
(Lablab purpureus) is
a tender, short-lived
tropical perennial,
grown as an annual
l ly:icin1h bc:m c rop in clllnalcs with
frost. It grows best al
64-86°F (18-30°C) with 70 percent
humid it)' and tolerates most soils.
SEEDS
In wanner cl imates, sow 1he seeds direct
in rows (see p.283) . Space climbing
cuhivars 12-lSin (30-45cm) apart along
dwarf types 12-16in (30-40cm) apart in
rows 1S-24in ( 45-60cm) apart. In colder
regions, sow seeds under cover (see p.285)
in 2-3½in (5-9cm) pots at 68°F (20°C)
with 70 percen t humidit)'. When the
seedlings are 4-6in (l0-15cm) tall , harden
off and transplant as above in a sheltered
sunn)' s ite, or 20-24in (50-60cm) apart
in grow bags or a greenhouse bed. Stan
harvesting in 9 weeks.
C UTTINGS
-------:----:-----
Take S-1 Oin (20-25cm) softwood stem
cuttings and root under mist as for
sweet potatoes (see below). Treat rooted
cuttings as seed lings (see above).
CUTTINGS ("Su PS")
Prepare sten1 cuttings as shown below.
In warm, humid areas, insert to half
their length in ridges as for tubers (see
left). In colder areas, root them in pots
of soilless rooting medi um under cover
in the same conditions as for seedl ings
(see far left). Transplant rooted cuttings
into a greenhouse border or grow bags.
Harvest tubers in 12-20 weeks.
Lowe, !ea,t,
r~ducc-
1i•tt10\'tcl 10
mo,,.uuc los-.
Remove lower leavt·s. Tiim each
2 shoot below a leaf joi111, Insert
three or four 8-1 Oin (20-25c111) long
c1utings to one 6in {15cm) "°'·
 F OEN lCULUM - LY COPERSlCON

L ACTUCA LYCOPERSICON TOMATO

SEEDS :.ll an>' lime l
L ETTUCE

Leuuce (Lactuca sativa) requires a

" I,
.
..,.
· ·~
:.~,.. \ ' ,.. '
,'

1:,_(
SEEDS ill ~j'>ring j
. ,
GRAFTING in spnng Ut
trays of soilless seed ,nix (see p.285) or
rockwool. Transplant seedlings when
growing temperature of 50-68°F
(10-20°C) and rich, moisture-retentive
soi l. The seeds do not germinate above
77°F (25°C). Lettuces may be raised
"
(
.
.. 1 · '
>:
~

,J . ·,·,,.
' .:
J.,
Perennial in the tropics,
\

this tender fruiting

from seeds over a long period, but it
is vital to choose a cultivar to suit the
seasons of sowing and harvesting. Only
some cultivars are suitable for warm
climates; others tend to bolt at high
temperatures in midsum mer. Rotate
crops every two years to avoid a build-
up of fungal disease. Leuuces are good
catch crops for intercropping (see p.285).
Sow seeds d irect from earl)' spring
to early autumn at statio ns (see p.284)
l 2in (30cm) apart, or 6in (15cm) apart
for small cultivars. Fl uid-sow for more
even germination (see p.284). Sowing in
cel ls (see p.285) makes best use of space
and avoids checks in growth when
transplanting. For successive crops, sow
a batch every .10- 14 days. Transplant
into moist soil when seedlings have 5-6
leaves, and shade in hot weather until
established. Begin to pick looseleaf
leuuces in seven weeks; buuerhead,
cos, and iceberg l)•pes in 11-12 weeks.
Hard)' cultivars for overwintering
outdoors can be sown direct or under
cloches in late summer and early
autumn to harvest in late spring to early
summer; they can also be sown in mid-
to late winter in cells under cover and
planted out in early spring.
vegetable (Lycopersicon
.,,,. . . .• " $;.} esculentum) is grown
as an annual crop in
Tom,110 colder climates. They
need a rich, moist
soil , sun, and temperatures of 70-75°F
(21-24°C). Apart from Fl hybrids,
tomatoes co1ne true Lo type, so it is
worth saving seeds. Older cuhivars that
are prone 10 diseases such as Verticillium
and tomato mosaic may be grafted to
increase thei r resistance.
SEEDS
Seeds germinate at around 59°F ( l. 5°C).
In hot climates, sow outdoors in rows
24in (60c1n) apart (see p.283). Thin tall
cultivars to 15-18in (38-45cm) apart;
bush types to 18-24in (45-60cm). Seeds
may also be fluid sown (see p.284). In
most areas, sow under cover in cel ls or
APPROACH GRAFTING TOMATO CULTIVARS
3in (8cm) tall , si ngly into 3½in (9cm)
pots. Plant outdoors after frost, when
nighuime temperatures remain above
45°F (7°C). Harvest from 7-8
weeks onward .
lf saving seeds, allow the fruits to
ripen just beyo nd the eating stage. Cut
open and squeeze the pulp and seeds
into a bowl. Label and leave undisturbed
in a warm place for 2-3 days. A thick
skin should form , and the gel that coats
the seeds ,viii ferment. After 3-4 days
(no longer), scoop the skin off the top
and rinse the seeds thorough!)' in a sieve
under running water. Spread out on
paper towels to dry. Seeds can be sto red
in a cool, dry place for up Lo four years.
GRAFTING
Use virus-free Fl hybrids as rootstocks
for grafting (see below) . Stagger sowing
seeds of the scion and stock if necessary,
so that they germinate at the same time.
Cul doh 11
lllOdl llhOVf Lowes•
leaf 11mlc kaf
Scion _ _

Tongul's fi1
LEPIDIUM CRESS fdg_flh("r ),mgJy
SEEDS in -.prmt, bte ~ommer or m :mwnm 1

Cress (Lepidium sativum) is a cool-

season annual crop that quickly goes to
seed in hot weather if not sown in shade Sow 1he roo1stocf1 4-5 clays bcforr i/,e scio11. Fit the rongues of the scion cmd swck plant
at 59-68°F (15-20°C). Sow (see pp.283-4)
broadcast or in rows 6in (15cm) apart.
1 Renuwc it from the pol when it is 6i11 (15cm)
rail. Mahe a Y.in (2cm) <lownwa,rl cut, Jin
2 wgcthe,: Bincl the graft firmly wi1/1 grnfting
or fl'tmsparent adhesive wpc. so that thf cuts
Cress is good for intercropping (see (8c m) from the srcm base. Malte tm uph'cml cur cut complrtcly covc,wl. Cur down the stoch,
p.285) and can be sown as for sprouts of the sa111r length 011 the scion (sec inset). nurlling cm nngletl cut just above the loivest leaf.
(see p.296) on paper towels for a crop
in Len days.

Cut mots
off :scion

Roo1stodt ,...__ G, af,

M UST,IRD AND C RESS
Sow cress seeds rhree days before cm eq1wl
<1uw1tity of nmswrd (see p.297) seeds ,m moist
Jmper wwels. Keep moist until rhc seedlings are
nxuly ro harvest.
Poi 1hc gniftccl plm,1 i11" 4i11 (10cm) /JOI
3 ju s.oilless porting mix. Grow 0 11 in high
hu111idi1y at t1111ini1111u11 of 59-64°F (15-18°C).
After 2-3 wccl,s, the gnif1 should callus ova
Remove the tape carefully.
Knoell the plmll out of its pot. Ctmjully cut
4 rhmugh the IJasl-' of tl1i~scion, malting tm
angled <ut just l>elow the grnft union. Ge11lly
pull <1way the se,•crcd mots, tl1rn rr.1,tant the
grafted 11ll1111 into its final posi1io11.

303
A-2 OF VEGETABLES

M ESEMBRYANTHEMUM P HASEOLUS B EAN

l CEPLANT Seeos from s1>ring to
mid.summer ,
SEEDS in early :,pnng !
These legumes or
This Lender perennial podded vegetables
( Mesembrya111hem11111
c,ysrallinum) is gro,vn
as an annual. IL needs
include the runner bean
( Pltaseolus coccineus),
the green bean
)

,.,,.
" ....
.... - ~ .._
-
~

sun and light , frce- Scarlcl runner

( Pltaseolus vulgaris), ~
• •
lceplam draining soil. In bean
and the Lima bean ,_
colder areas, sow seeds (P. lunarus). They are all 1e1npera1e-
indoors in trays or pots (see p.285) and season, Lender crops grown as annuals. '•
transplant into cells when large enough Very high temperatures with high
10 handle. Harden off and plant ou t I 2in humidiL)' prevent the flowers from
(30cm) apart in early summer, under selling and therefore reduce the crop. PREGERMINATING GREl:N 81!AN$
cloches if needed. In warm regions, sow Legumes arc greedy feeders; a few Spn:acl die beans out 0 11 moisr pape, rowds
direct in rows 12in (30cm) apart, and months before sowing, prepare the soil inn snuccr anti l1ecp cl(m11> lll a minimum
thin seedlings to the same spacing. with plenty of well-rolled compost 10 1e111prn11111i- of 54°F (l 2°C). Sow 1he be1111s <1s
Harvest in four weeks. supply the deep roots. Cold and wet soon ,1s shoms a1>1>em, bcfo,e rho · rum g,crn.
soil can cause seeds 10 fail 10 germinate
or seedlings 10 emerge blind. To avoid GREEN, KIDN EY, OR HARICOT BEAN
0 XAL1S O CA this, sow in containers (sec p.285) or These arc self-pollinating and need a
pregerminate seeds (see 1ig/tt). light , rich soil. Pregerminate the beans
TUBERS in spring!
Beans may be collected for use as if necessary (see above). Sow climbing
These plants (Oxalis wberosa ) arc Lender seeds (see p.282), except from Fl hybrids, cuhivars (pole beans) as for runner
perennials , growing best in 70 percent when the pods turn yellow. When dwarf beans. Sow dwarf types in staggered
humidity al about 68-72°F (20-22°C). cuhivars yellow, uproot an entire plant rows. Successive sowings can be made
In hot climates, plant the seed tubers and hang 10 dry. Discard any shriveled up Lo midsummer (sec clwrt, below).
as for potatoes (see p.307), but 20in seeds. Seeds last 3-4 years.
(50cm) apart. In colder climates, start LI!v\A OR BUTTER BEAN
the tubers into growth under cover in R UNNER BEAN ----------
These tropical planLS prefer a sandy
Sin (20cm) pots in early spring and These beans need 100 frost-free days to soil low in nitrogen . In subtropical or
trans plant in late spring when shooLS arc mature and a sheltered site 10 encourage warm-temperate areas, grow in the open
6in ( 15cm) tall. Keep the young planLS pollinating insects. Sow outdoors under (see cliarr, below) in full sun, providing
warm under cloches or plastic fllm (see a tepee or row of stakes, two seeds per shade until the plants are established.
p.39). Harvest in 6-8 months; mature stake, when the soil is wann enough In cooler climates, sow in pots as
tubers will be smaller in colder areas. (see cl1art, below). For early crops in for Lc1blc1b (see p.302). Small-seeded
cold areas, sow sing!)• in cells or poLS in cultivars will grow onl)' after the start
midspring and transplant after all risk of of summer, when daylight lasts less
PASTINACA PARSNIP frosLS has passed. than 12 hours.
SEEDS tn earl)' or 111 1::ttc spnng U
Parsnips ( Pas1i11aca sativa) arc a cool- SOWING BEAN SEEDS
season annual crop and grow best in a
R UNNER GREEN, KIDN EY, LI MA OR BUTTER
deep, light soil. The seeds must be fresh
to germinate; prcgerminated or primed BEAN OR H ARI COT BEAN BEAN
seeds (see p.282) germinate more evenly. WHE N TO SOW Mid.spring to early Mld;;pring lo Spring U
Seeds germinate very slowly if soil summer i midsummer!
temperature is below 45°F ( 12°C).
Sow seeds direct in earl)• spring for GtR~IINATION/ SOIL 54' F (l2' C) 54' F (12' C) 64' F (18"C)
'TL\ll>t:RA TURI!
crops in autumn Lo early winter, or sow
in late spring for overwintering crops. SPACING 0 1- s1:.1:-os OR 6 111 (l Scm) Climbmg lypes: 2½-4in Climbing types: 12- ISin
Sowing in late spring avoids the first SCEOUNGS (6-IOcm) (30--l5cm)
generation of carrot rust fly and gives Dwarf lyp<!S: 9m (23cm) Dwarf l)l><S: 12-l 6in
Lender roots. Sow in autumn and winter (3o--t0cm)
also in wann climates. Station-sow (see SPACING or ROWS Double rows at 2ft Climbing types: double Chmbmg types: 30-3oin
p.284) seeds ¼in (2ctn) deep and 4in (60cm) rows a1 60cm (24in) (7~-IOOcm)
( 10cm) apart , with l2in (30cm) between Dwarf types: single rows Dwarf 1ypes: 18-24m
rows. If broadcast-sown in ,vidc drills, at 9io (23cm) (45-60cm)
thin 10 3in (Sein) apart for smaller roots,
4in ( 10cm) for larger roots. SOWJNG DIJPTII 2in (5cm ) 1½-2in ( 4-Scm) lln (2.5cm)
Parsnips may be intersown with a GRO\\ING 57-84' F (14-29'C) 61-86' F (l6-30'C) 64-86'F (18-JO'C)
faster-maturing crop, such as radishes TEMP[RAnJRE:
( see facing page). Sow three parsnip
seeds at 4in (10cm) intervals and radish TIME UNTIL HARVEST 13-1 7 weeks 7-l3 weeks 12-16 weeks
seeds between them spaced about lin
(2.Sctn) apart. Parsnips should be ready
to harvest from l6 weeks after sowing.

304
 M ESEMBRYANTHEMUM - R APHANUS

P ISUM P EA, SNO\.V PEA, SUGAR PEA

Seeos from spring lo c.i.rly SOWING PEA SEEDS IN GUTTERING
summer or in aulumn U
Peas (Piswn sativwn)
are cool-season annual
crops. The)' grow best
at 55-64°F (13-18°C)
in moisture-retentive,
Pc:o free-draining soil but
suffer excessive!)' in
cold, wet, or dr)' soil. Dress the soil with
potassium sulfate before sowing, and
rotate the crops (sec p.282).
Seeds need a soil temperature of 50°F
(10°C) 10 germinate but sta)' dormant
in high su,nm er temperatures. Sow in 'Ii,llc 11 /cugrh of plC1stic gurraing r/1111 is C"vcr die seeds UJJ u, the rim with more soil
succession every ten da)'S, or sow more
than one cuhivar for staggered crops.
1 .l½-6fr (l. l - 2m) /oug. Fill wirlt soill,•ss
seed mix UJJ tr> 1/,iu {l cm) from the rim. Sow 1>ro
2 mi\'. \¼rh.'J' ,~gc1in to ~cttlc die m;x. Lc1bd .
Lc,nit· i11 ,, slidtn·ccl pfocc such a~ 011 c~ smm_y
v\lrinkled seeds are hardiest so arc best Sfc<ls in" double roi, nbour 2i11 (5cm) <IINH'l.
1
, wh1dow5iff w gc-rniimHc. 'fhc 1em1,(·rmurf
for autumn sowing. Before sowing, soak \Vatt'.r rhcm w settle die soil ml\'. ,houltl br 11bovr 50"f (10°C),
seeds overnight to aid germination. Sow
two rows or seeds 2in (5cm) deep in a \Vl1n1 the St'cdliugs
wide drill or broadcast in single drills
(p.283). Sow snow or sugar peas also
3 WC J-'lill (8-IOcm)
wll wul their mob <1re
in deep beds, 2-3in (5-8cm) apart. well develoJJed, diey
To protect seeds from mice, sow in ccm be rrcrnsplcuued.
guuering (see rigli1); guard seeds against Orcrw out " slwllow
birds with neuing (see p.45). trench w tlu· same
Peas ma)' be harvested after 10-12 ,kpth c111d length as tl1c
weeks. Seeds come true to t)'pe so are guuc, ing. tl1e11 gc111ly
worth saving (see p.282). Choose strong p11s1, sections of die
plants and allow the pods 10 mature. The seecllings, 110 more thcrn
seeds arc ripe when the peas rattle in the l8i11 (45cm) ma lime,
pod. They remain viable for three )'Cars. into the 1rcnch. Finn in.

RAPHANUS RADISH
Seeos in !iopnng 10 bte ...um mer U
Annual and biennial radishes (Rc1plwnus
salivus) are annual root crops. They
prefer a light, rich soil with low nitrogen
levels and should be rotated regularly.
Large winter cultivars such as 'Black
Spanish Winter' and the Oriental
radishes to lerate cold. Each type is
sown differently (see clwn, below).
Seeds of smal l radishes are usually sown
d irect, in batches, al ten-da)' intervals.
Broadcast-sow (see p.284) very thinl)' or
sow in drills (see p.283). Small, round
types may be used for intersowing (see
p.285) with long-1enn crops such as
parsnips. Most large winter or Oriental
l)'pes bolt if sown before midsummer
in colder climates. Selected cultivars of
small , round types 1113)' be sown earlier or
later than usual, under cover if necessary.
Dust seeds with an appropriate
insecticide against cabbage root maggot
and nca beetle and repeat as needed;
nea beetle is a particu lar threat in dr)'
weather. Radishes may be grown for
seed crops. Summer rad ishes produce
small , hot , edible seedpods.

SOWING RADISH SEEDS

SMALLl SM,-\LL, LARGE, ORIENTAL SEED
ROUND LONG WINTER (DA I KON) CROPS

S11r or AAD1s11 I in (2.5cm) .:3in (8cm) lib (500g) 2in ($cm)

diameter long or more in diameter; Sin
weight (20cm) long

\V11F.N TO SOW Spring to late Spring lO hue Summer Mid tO kite

4
Sprmg 10 late
:,ummer summer summer summer

5PAUNC. 01· PLAN I'S tin (2.5cm) lin ( 2.5cm) 6in (15cm) 4in (10cm) 6in (15cm)

SPACING or ROWS 6in (15cm) Qin 05cm) 12in (30cm) 12in (30cm) 12111 (30cm)

¼in ( Lem) ¼in (1cm) ¾in (2cm) ¾in (2cm) ½in ( 1cm)

TIME UNTIi Mam crop: 3-4 weeks 10--1 2 week!, 7-8 weeks 8-10 weeks.
OUSTING RADISH SEEDLINGS IIAkVl:51 3-4 weeks or when pods
Dusi seedlings wid1 an inseclicicte m the two-te,if Early or late arc crisp :md
swg,· 10 protecr 11g11i11sr flea beer le. orfcrrili<c lO crops: 6-8 green
l1ecp foliage vigomus. weeks

305
A-2 OF VEGETABLES
RHEUM RHUBARB
SEEDS 111 ..,prn1~'
D MSION from autumn lO c~trh ... pringj
Th e edible rhubarb (Rheum x l1ybri(/11m,
syn. R. x culrorwn) is a perennial. It does
1101 thrive in high temperatures a11d needs
soil en riched with wcll-roued manure or
compost and a period or winter cold to
bring it ou t or dormancy. Seedlings vary,
so rhubarb is best increased by division.
A few stems ma)' be harvested in the
first year from divisions or in the second
year from seedlings.
Sow seeds in a seedbed (see p.283),
I in (2.5cm) deep, 12in (30c m) apa rt.
Thin to 6in ( 15cm) apart. In autumn or
the following s pring, transplant the bes1.
Sow also in early sunu11cr in warm areas.
Divide crowns once they are 3-4
years o ld, prefcrabl)' in la te autumn.
Take pieces of the roo1s tock, o r "sets," at
least 4in ( 10cm) in diameter (see rig/11).
RORIPPA WATERCRESS
SEEDS in earl) ,,u1umn !
CUTTINGS Ill -.prmg ..
Rooted cuui ngs of this annual (Ro,·ippa
,wstu,tium-aquaticum, syn. Nasturtium
officinale) may be grown in wate r (see
below) or in trays of gravel watered
dai ly. Sow seeds on 2in (5cm ) or peat o r
capillary malting (see righr); keep moist
at 64-70°F ( 18-21°C) un til germinati on,
then c ircu late the water water dail)' with
a pump or by hand. Harves1 4 in (lOc,n)
stems in 8-14 weeks.
TAKI NG \.VATERCRESS CUTTI NGS
Cut 2in (5cm)
1 fm,u tht' Sl('UIS
of l1c11/tlry pl,1111>,
ctu1i11gj11)l below
" le<1f joint. Tr·inr of(
lower lcm·1.·~ from die
bouo111 tw,Hhrrch ,,j
a1cl1cutting. Plan·
tltt· nmingl- iu er jm
]Hied with waler.
Allow lei mm in n
b.-iglrt place out of
clircYr sunlight, <H
""""t 61 °F (J 6°C)
for n wrdi o, .)0,
SCORZONERA
SEEDS 111 ,pnng or in l~uc summer,
Scozo11era his1,a11 ica is a perenn ial
usually grown as an annual. It needs a
deep, light, fertile soil with low nitrogen
levels. IL g rows besL in temperatures of
around 6 1°F ( l 6°C).
Use fresh seeds, because I hey do not
store wel l. PlanlS flower in the second
306
DtVll)ING RIILIBARB
UJ1 o, C\/JiJst· rhr cmh'II. Using a spculc, < ur
ll1ro11xh 11 < (fft{ultv. c11s1ni11g rhnc b m lcas1
emf n1e1i11 bud 011 n1cl1 picct·. Replant inw wdl~
~ml, Jft (90nu) tr/HIil fllCh 1,ny. Fiff
111cu1111.:d
m around fll<.h rom so 1lw1 the butl 1SJW,t abm•f
the ~u,jtrff. 1-iuu tffmmd llu· bU<I, then mukh.
SOWING WATERCRESS SEEDS
S11, ,,,...g,Tminatnf sr1.·tls into f,esh wc,llpapo
/J(btt'. U11t a srrd rrc,y will, 11101)1 capillt1rv
mmt111g. Spread 11,t: pc1stc. Cm·t1 with gla.)5,
\VJ1c11 Ou~ctHti11g~ have di'vdopr<I good ,out
2 gwwth, clrnp into c1 cc,lm JHHI of cm
1111•111
11111,c,lluud running srrnm1 w grnw mi.
year and produce seeds in daisylike
heads. Seeds need a soil tcmpcra1ure of
a1 leasL 45°F (7°C) to germinate. Sow in
spring in Sin (20cm) rows (see p.283);
1hin 10 4in (10cm) apan. Harves t roots
after at least four months, in au Lum n.
Alternative!)', sow in late suinmer for a
harvest in the following autumn .
SOLANUM
EGGPLANT, P OTATO
SEEDS Ill ~prin.:, (eggplant),~
TUBERS in ':>pnng (poiato) '
This genus includes
both the eggplan1
(Sola1111m melo11ge11a).
grown for ilS fruit , and
1he tuberous potato
(S. 1uberos11m). 801h
require a deep, free-
draining, fertile soil.
EGGPLANT
These tender perennials <1re grown as
annuals in cold climates. They grow bcs1
in soil with medium n itrogen and in
Lem peratures of 77-86°F (25-30°C) and
75 perce nt humidity; growth is checked
below 68°F (20°C). For the best rate of
germination, soak seeds in warm water
for 24 hours. Sow thinly in tra)'S or pots
(see p.285) a nd 1ransplant into 3½in
(9cm ) polS as soon as the seedl ings arc
large enough LO handle. Harden off if
needed (see p.286) a nd plan! ou r when
3-4in (8-lOcm) tall. ln warm clima tes,
plan1 in fu ll s un 24-30in (60-75c111)
a part each way, bu1 protect from winds
and low temperatures, which may s tunt
growth and cause bud drop.
In cold climates, transplant into
beds under cover a1 the same spaci ng
as above or into Sin (20cm) polS of soil-
based mix or grow bags. To save seeds,
leave the fruits until ready LO d rop off
the p lan t, 1hen hang up unti l the color
dulls, LO allow the seed s 10 ripen. Slice
in half, pick o u1 the seeds, and dry.
POTATO
These perennials are tender a nd grow
best at 6 L-64°F (l 6-l8°C). The)' n eed
soi l enriched wi1h o rganic material ;
SPROUTING SEED POTATOES
To sprout seed potatoes, place in <i box or trny iu
ct single layc,; "eyes" uppcrmos1. SW1t' in" liglit,
cool place until ¼in (2cm) grct:n spmuts appear
(11~11ally six week~). In a warm, darl, place, rl1c
wbers 1,roducc p(.llc. weal: sprnws (sec insc1).

PLANTING SEED POTATOES
FIRST EARLY CROP
\ Vni;N TO Pl.ANT Early ,prmg l
SPACING 01; 1 UBJ IC) l 2in (30cm) in rows
ANO ROWS !Sin (-15cm) apan
T1ME UNTIi. IIARVP>l 100-110 dars
early c rops pre fer 1ned ium nitroge n
levels, main cro ps need high nitrogen.
Rotate c rops (sec p. 282) to avoid
buildup of soil-borne diseases: early
cro ps are best rotaied every three years
a nd main crops every five years .
Use only certified virus-free seed
tubers, which are grown free of aphids
10 avoid the s pread of viruses. If
growing potatoes for seed tubers, be
sure 10 protect them fro,n aphids.
PLANTING SEED POTATOES IN A BED
IN A TRl,NCII Using ll Sp(l(/r, ""'"c Cl drill 1/1111
is 3-6in (8-15cm) deep. Se1 thr tubers in rhc
drill"' 11,c co,·,~ct SJICICing (see chart, above),
with the spmuts uppcrn1ost. Cover <1nd mou,,d
HJ' sfiglufy. Begin hHling up cu-ound the new
shoots when tlrry c,re aboul 6in (15cm) wll.
PLANTING SEED POTATOES IN A CONTAINER
Fifi a l2in (30cm) pol with soil-based
1 poll ing mix or soil to one-1/drd of its de1J1l1,
and mix in a small handful of ge11eral-J1urpose
fertilizer. Place a sproute<I wber in 1/ie center,
with the sprouted end uppennosr.
SECOND EARLY CROP MAIN C ROP
Midspring l Late sprmg ,
15in (38cm) in rows 15m (38cm) in rows
27m (68cnt) a1>an 30in (75cm) apan
110-120 dars 125-140 dars
ln colder regio ns with a s ho rter growing
season , seed potatoes are often sprouted
under cover (see facing page) 10 start
them into growth before planting. The
more sprouts there are on a tuber, the
higher the yield will be. For large early
potatoes, rub off al l but three s proulS.
Discard any that look unhealthy.
If needed, cover earlies with neece or
p lastic film (see p.39) 10 pro tect against
light froslS. Plant main crop potatoes
ON A r>EEP BED PrqJ<uc a raisc,1 brd (sec
p.283). L.t,y the tubers on the soil. 4in (10cm)
C1part, noting tl1dr positious. Cover tllt"m with
6--Sin ( 15- 20cm) of welf-roued comJIOSI. 11>/I
wil/1 blc1di plC1.siic cmd weigl, dow11 . Mc1llC slits
above each wbct for 1he shoo1s to gmw rhmugh.
Cover the tuber with about 2iu (5011) more
2 potting mix or soil, and grow 011 in a frost-
free greenhouse. \Vhcn the new shoms are 6in
(15cm) tall, begin to hiff 1/,em up in stages,
half-burying the shoo1s each time.
R HEUM - S OLAN UM
when the soil temperature is above
45°F (7°C) and all risk of frost is
pas!. Po1a1oes may be intercropped (see
p.285) with leafy brassicas or in a deep
bed with peas or beans.
Seed tubers may be planted in
various ways: in a trench, raised bed,
or through b lack plastic to avoid
the necessity to hill up the growi ng
shoots (see below). lf space is limited
or condit io ns are unsuitable, early
potatoes can also be grown in deep
containers (see below) outdoors or in
a warm greenhouse.
Problems that may affect the tubers
include slugs, wireworrns (sec p.47),
potato cyst nematodes, blight, ring
rot, common potato scab, bacterial rot
(destroy at once), internal rus t spot,
and potato spraing. Many cultivars
are available with varying degrees o f
resistance to disease.
UNOl:K RI.ACK Pl.1\STIC Prcpwt a mu·sc,)1 bed
<md cover it \\1i1/1 IJlaclt pla.)tic, m1chormg it l>)'
b1,ry111~ die ccl,<;cs. Mc1l:1.' OOSS·Slic1pcd CIUS in the
plastic f2rn (.30cm} <1pwt ccrch woy. Pl"'u ct seed
tuber 1hm11gh eacl, slit, -1-5in (10-12cm) cltcp.
with ib spmurrcl rml uppet 111os1.
\Viren 1hc ,hoots have been l1iflecl up ,o tire
3 rini of the pot, wmer cmd all"w to grow
on. Knodi 01u d1r pot ro harvest the potatoes
when tire flowers "P'" or when tire top foliage
begins to die bacli.
307
A-Z OF VEG ETABLES
SPINACIA SPINACH
Seeos from hue \\ inter h) m1d... tumnl·r,
Spinach (Spi,wcia olcracia) is an annual ,
leaf)' crop, growing best al 61-64°F
( I 6-l 8°C). The seeds are difficu l1 10
germinate above 86°F (30°C). Sow
them in drills (sec p.283) al 1hrec-week
intervals, ¼in (2cm) deep and 2in (5cm)
apart , with 12in (30cm) between rows.
Thin seedl ings LO 6in ( 15cm) for large
plants. Use specially bred cultivars for
summer sowing to avoid bolting. Give
high levels of nitrogen and water. Begin
harvesting in 6-8 weeks. Sow seeds of
hardier cultivars in early autumn for
culli ng in early spring.
STACHYS CH INESE ARTICHOKE
TUBERS iu la1t· wmtN ••
The tuberous vegetable, Stacl1ys affinis,
is a perennial. The tubers need a long
growing season of 5-7 months, so plan t
early in 1he season. Collect large, fresh
tubers and divide as for Jerusa lem
artichokes (see p.302). Plant the tubers
uprigh1 in ligh t soi l, about Jin (8cm)
deep and l2in (30cm) apart.
T ETRA GO NIA
NEW ZEALAND SP INACH
SEEDS in m1d~ Of 11, late ,pnnr. 11
The seeds of 1his perenn ial (Tetrago11ia
tetragonioicles , S)'"· T. exrxmsa) have very
hard coats; soak overnigh1 before sow-
ing. Sow seeds in drills l8in (45cm)
apart (sec p.283) after all risk of frost is
past; thin 10 18in (45cm) apan. Sow in
midspri ng in warm climates or under
cover in cells (see p.285) 10 plant out in
la1e spring or earl)' summer. In warm
cl imates, cuui ngs arc possible.
T RAGOPOGON SALSIFY
SEEOS from earl> IO la1c
spnng!
Tragopogon pon·ifolius,
also known as vegetable
oyster plant , is a
biennial grown as an
annual root crop. The
Sais.Cy roots grow best in the
llowcrs same conditions and
soil as scorzonera (see p.306). Raised
beds arc ideal. Always use fresh seeds;
viability quickly declines. Sow seeds
in drills (see p.283) 12in (30cm) apan,
'hin (1cm) deep. Thin seed lings to 4in
(10cm) apart. Roots mature in four
months; they may be left longer in
the soil un til needed. Leave roots over
winter for a spring crop of nowcr buds.
308
VI CIA BROAD OR FAVA BEAN
SEEDS lfl . IUl\111111, l'MI)
,pnng, or I.ill' w1mn,
Broad beans (Vicia faba)
arc an annual crop,
growing best below
60°F (15°C). Some
cuhivars are quite
Broad b,·a,» hard)', tolerating I4°F
(-10°C) on frcc-
draining, well-manured soi l. Broad
beans require low nitrogen levels and
should be rotated every three years.
Seeds gcrmina1c at low temperatures.
Sow 1hc111 in autumn or earl)' spring
(see below). ln cold regions, sow seeds
in contai ners (sec p.285) under cover in
la1e winier .ind transplant in spring. lf
needed , protect seed lings from frost (sec
p..39) and mice and birds (see p.45).
Harvest beans from early sowings in
12- 16 weeks and from winier sowings
in 28-35 weeks. If saving seeds, grow
1he parent plants in a block and save
seeds from plants in the cen1er 10 red uce
variability. Hang up 10 dry (see p.282).
Seeds stored in a cool, airtight place ma)'
last for up 10 ten years.
$OWING HROAD BEANS
Sow lm-'<l<i brw1~ ..fin (10cm) apart, in mws 6i11
(/5011 ) "l""r. Mak,• 2iu (.5011) dcrp lwl,·,, mu/
amp a bt·m1 inw cacl1. Covn wi1l1 ,oil. wmt~, in,
mu/ ltrbd.
VIGNA MUNG BEANS,
BEAN SPROUTS
SEEDS a1 ao, time I
Prcsoak the seeds for 48 hours before
sowing. They must be kepi moist
wi thout being waterlogged , wh ich leads
to rot. One method is lo sow them onto
moist capillary malling, paper 1owels, or
blouing paper as shown right. Keep the
seeds at a temperature of 70°F (2 1°C).
The sprouts should be ready 10 eat
after 7-10 days. Alternatively, keep the
beans in a jar (see far right) a1 the same
temperature and soa k two times a day
by pouring water through the muslin ,
then draining off the water.
ZEA CORN
S EEDS Ill ,pnng !
l Corn ( Zea mays) is
an annual that needs
fertile , free-draini ng soi l
with medium nitrogen
levels. It is important to
grow on ly one type lo
'i\\ l~t.' I corn coh avoid cross-pollination,
which impairs 1hc
Oavor, particularly or the superswcet
types. Corn requires full sun and
growing temperatures of 61 - 95°F
( l6-35°C) for 70-1 10 days Lo mature.
Seeds germinate at 50°F (I 0°C).
Sow in an open site 10 assist pollination,
which is by the wind . Pollination is
also improved by g rowing the plan1s in
blocks: station-sow 2- 3 seeds (see p.284)
at stations l 4in (35cm) apart. Thin the
seed lings 10 one per station.
BOTTLE CLOCHES FOR CORN
111 coJclcr rl111wus, f>li>lfCt com ~i·c,tli11g, wi1l1
bottfr rlodtl'S. Cw tJu_· l,ouo,u) off 1l1c l,o,1tn.
JJtac.r 011c o"n t'm..11 :,tftlli,ix. Rt·mmr l>tjorc
the t>llmh rl'm h dtt' ldps of the hoU k!>.
SOWING BEAN SPROUTS
U,w a seed tray with d,m,p pt1per rowels. Sow
thidily with ,,rcsonllcd seeds. Cover with 1>fo~tic
wmp w hecp moist. \k·mil<uc oansionally,

In cold regions, sow seeds or early
cuhivars in a sheltered site. Ano ther
o ption is 10 sow singly in cells under
cover (see p.285), but transplant the
seedlings quickly, within two weeks,
LO avoid a check in g rowth .
Pro blems include corn rootworm ,
European corn bo rer, annyworm,
cutwo rms, sponed cucumber bee tle,
asparagus beetles, and vario us smuts.
Raccoons ma)' 1ear down the entire
plant 10 obtain the ears.
Corn may be grown as an in1ercro p
(see p. 285), ror example with squashes,
as shown (below. left). For bab)' ears,
space early cuhivars 6in (15cm) apart.
If saving the seeds of o pen-pollinated
heirloom cuhivars, grow an isolated
block of at least JOO plan LS for seeds
1ha1 arc true 10 type.
CORN PLt\N l'l! I) I N A HU.)C.K
,\ lalc mul ft 11urle flowas ,m: l>onu_· on , J,r samf
pl<111t. The nwk flown s. pwcluctd i11 w~sds al
1/w WJJ of the p/t1111 (sec a bove) release JJOllm
when rhc wind blows. The pollen mlhe,t·s le>the
silJ~y Sl rwul:,. of 1l1t: fe male _(lowcl'S (sec inscl ),
1111dcr which L't1rs fo rm. Sow corn in blodis W
obwin a good rmc ofiwJlinmion cmd croJ>.
SPROUTING BEANS IN A JAR
....,.,,..__,_r - Scout~
h ilh
rnbber
bmul
Soall beans in / in (2.5cm) of coltl water in a
jar oveniiglit (see inset) . Sccd with muslin;
d,:ain off rhe wate,: Leave in a warm , darh
place. Rinse twice daily u111i/ s11rouicd.
OTHER VEGETABLES
AfRIC.1\N OR l~OIA1' SPINACII AMAR.-\,\llfl '\
CRPENll) In colder arc.-1s, sow under cover
in early sum mer or in cells at 72°F (22°C)
and 70 percent humidity. Transplant 15- 20in
(38-50cm) apan : p ro tect until estab lished.
In wan ner climates, sow in d rills I 2in (30cm)
a part: thin seedlings 10 4-6in ( I 0-15cm ) jl.
E1w(,\ ~All\'.· \ Sow
AR1 c,1 1 ,. $Al.An R<.><.KI r
seeds in succession fro m hnc winter to early
summer al -16-50°F (8- 10°C), 1hcn from
late summe r 10 mid:H.u u mn, In colder a reas.
protect early a nd late sowings under cover~.
A:,PARAGl S P[A Len L'S HI Rt\G0,'01 OBl ' S (syn.
r, rR.tc,o,c,,our, Pt'Rrt1R1t \) Seeds in mid-
to late spring al 50-59°F (10-15°C) in cells
o r IOin (25cm ) a part in 15in (38em) rnws U.
C \Pl (,( )()\I U1 RRY. $ I IU\\ 1U RR'I I OM,\l'O
PmsAu~ PlRl \ 'l,\\.A ~ow !,Ccds as fo r tomato
(sec p.JOJ); 1ranspla n1 unde r cover in colder
cl imates 10 e nsure ri pe fruits u.
CtYLO, . l"101,\1', OR V1,t 5 1'1\!ACI I IJA~fU..1t
..u_B,t In warmer clim:ucs, sow seeds direct
in spring at 77-86°F (25-30°C), 16-20in
( -¼0-50<:m ) a p.ut. In <.:olde r clim~w::,, sow
in t rays o r 2½in (6cm) pens: t ranspla nt
seedlings into llin (20cm ) pois. grow hag,
or indoor bed U,
C111<.K PL-\. CrccR J\RltllNt.\f Sow t hree seeds
at statio ns IOin (25cm) apart in late s pring
a, 50-5Q°F ( I 0- 15°C): d o no, 1hin. Sow
u nder cover if need ed lU- Dry pla111s fo r
seeds (sec p. 282) before fi rs, frost.
C 111Nr-,r BRO((OI I B RASS/(;\ RAM VAR,
Atn(>Cl.t\BRI\ Sow seeds direct or in cells in
hue sp ring to early aulu m n as for broccoli
(sec p.296): crops bes, fro m mid - 10 la1e
summer sowings I ,
C 1ILlP ~LI Y tRtl ~s CuRr),\, 1HlMl'M
Ct>ROi'MW'M Sow seed s thinly in rows 9in
(23cm) a pan a, 50-59"F ( 10-15°C) fro m
c.1rl)' spring to early summe r. Bohs in heat:
sow again in late Mtmmcr to early a utumn:.
CORN SALAD, 1..AMR\ l r rn (1 V,u l·RUNFJ L-\
10CtS1A Sow seeds in cells in hue spring a,
50-59°F ( I0-15°C) o r dirccl ! Sin (38cm)
apan fro m mid · 10 la1e summe r j.
D .,NDM 10~ T..\RAXAC l'M o,., KINAlt Sow seeds
in spring at 50-59°F (10- 15°C) in rows
H in (35cm) apan: 1hin 10 2in (5cm) a pan j.
E\'1 'll\.C, l'RIMRO~I OJ \.(HUtlv\ mtN\.I::.> Sow
seeds 1hinly as for parsnip (sec p.304) u.
G ROl' ND C IIERR\' P Hl'.'>ALIS PRI 11\'0SA Sow seeds
d irect as fo r 1oma10 (see JJ.303). b ut 4in
(10cm) apMt in rows lSin (38cm) apart~-
M .\M8l RG PARSLC\ P ETROSEUNI \f CRISPl 'M \AR.
1t'IIHWS1 \f Sow as fo r parsnip (s,·c p.304) j ,
I lo r P[PPER CAPSICUM fRV1 ESCE)'.:5 Sow seeds
al 6-l-70°F ( 18-21 °C)
from early to midsp ring:
1r:11tspla111 10 2ft (60cm )
apart £rom late s pring lo
early summe r,.
JIC.t\M,-\ PAClffRJU:us
Tt.fBEROSPSSeeds in trays
in spring a1 59°F ( I 5°C):
transplant into po ts; plant o ut in tarly
SPI NAC lA - ZEA
summer Uj. In warm a reas. 1rcat tubers as
for po1a1oes (/J.30i) ~-
L\ ~O ( Rr,;;c; DARBAR[A \'FRN,\ Sow seed s at
50-59°F (10-l 5°C) m mid- or late summer
for au1um 11 10 sp,·ing crops~ sow fro m
m i<lspring 10 early summe r for sumrnc r crop
( tends 10 bolt). Space row< Sin (20cm)
a pan: th in to 6in ( 15cm) apart l-
M1zt ;!\A GRI [N\ 8R1\SSICAJtiNCfA VAlt IAPONI(,\
Sow seeds in cells in late spring a t 59°F
( 15°C) ordirce1: space 4 in ( 10cm) a part for
small heads, lllin (45cm ) a par1 for large
heads. Good intercrop (s,·c p.285) l ,
ML "IARO C.Rll'-1\ IJIUSSICA)l i-,:Ct.-\ Sow seeds
diree1 or in cells a1 59°F ( I 5°C) n11d- to late
summe r for :1.u1um n or winter c ro p, in c.-rly
a u tumn u nder cover for I.He wim cr to
spring c ro p. Thin to I 2in (30cm) a pan ,.
Pl)RH (, \ I (.Alm 1\(.,I 8~1\\)l(A 01 HVKfA
TRONC 1n10 ,\ GROL I' Sow in late spring at
50-59°F (I0- 15°C). 3-4 seeds a1 s1a1 io ns
2f, (60cm ) a par1 in rows 30in (75cm) apart:
thin 10 o ne per s1;-Hio n , .
R-1\MPION C\MP,\NtfLA RAP( NC'HU 1S Sow fi n e
1
seeds in early summe r in s.1nd alo ng d rills
Qin (23cm ) a pai-1 a, 50-S9°F ( 10- 15°C):
thin IO 4 in ( I 0cm) apart i.
SKIRRfT Su 1,\t s,s,.,R,'M Sow seeds as for salsify
(stc J>.308) in early spring or early a utumn .
Lift and d ivide w bers in early spring: rcplan1
I 2in (30cm) a pan j .
SoRREt RPMl·X sn•TAIPS Sow seeds in spring
or at,n u mn al 50°F ( l 0°C). in cells o r in
rows 12in (30cm) a.pa n : thin to 10-12 in
(25-30cm) a pan. Self-sows readily ,.
Sc.werAN G1tc1N1· MA\' Sow seeds in mid- to
hue spring a, 54°F (I 2°C). 3in (8cm) a pan
in double rows I Sin (38cm) a pan. Space
douhlc rows 30in (75cm) apan. Long-
1crm crop u.
Sl1MMCR PLRSU\'.J[ l'ORTC 1l..1\C1\ Ot[RACEA Sow
al 50-54°F (I0- 12°C) 1hinly m 6 in ( 15cm)
rows in summer. In colder ;1rcas. sow in 1rays.
transplant into cells. p lant ou t after frosts 1.
To.n C.Rfl N~ B RASSl<.A (..1\fflNArA Sow d irect
at 50-59°F (10- l 5°C) every 2-3 weeks fro m
earl)' sp ring to early a utumn, in rows 12in
(30cm) apart: thin to I in ( 2.5cm). For small
leaves. broadcast-sow in wide drills (11,283):
d o not thin. Sow under cloch es if needed 1-
TOMATll.l.O P 11rs.-\L1~ IX<)( ARJ),, Sow seeds as
for 1o matocs (p.303) ll-
\.Vu..s11 ONION AUR'M n.~TllLOSUM Seeds in
spring o r late summer in
rows 9in (23cm) a par1 a,
50-59°F (I0- 15°C): 1hin
to 8111 (20cm) ,. Divid e
every 3-+ years as for
chives (see p.29 1) j .
\ VINTFR l'l R">LANt- MONUA
PHU·c>1MIA Sow i n s1>ring or
late summer and autumn a t SC>°f
( l 0°C), in trays, b roadcast or in
6-9in ( 15-23cm) rows j.
ARUG ULA
309
GLOSSARY
GLOSSARY
T/1e glossa,y explains liorriculrural rerms
1/iat occ,.,· in 1his booll, as applicable ro
pl<mt propagation. Fuller deflnilions may
be found t/1rouglwur 1he rexr .
Ac101c (of soil ) With a pH value below 7.
ADVENTITIOUS BUD Latent or dormant
bud on the s tem or root, often invisible
until stimulated into growth.
AERATION Opening up of soil/soil mix
structure to allow free circulation of air.
ALKALINE (of soil) With a pH value
above 7.
ANGIOSPERM Flowering plant that bears
ovules, later seeds, enclosed in ovaries
(see also G)'mnosperm).
APOMIXIS (adj. apomictic) Asexu al
production of ripe seeds. Offspring are
clones, genetically iden tical to parent.
AUXIN Synthetic or naturall)' occurring
substances in plants con trolling shoot
growth, root formation , and other
physiological processes.
Axil.LARY BUD Bud borne in the angle
between a leaf and a s tem, between a
main stem and a sideshoot, or between
a stem and a bract.
BISEXUAL (hermaphrodite) Re fers
10 flower that bears ma le and female
reproductive organs.
BLEEDING The oozing of sap through
a cut or wound.
BREAK To produce new growth, often
when a shoot emerges from a bud.
CALLUS Protective tissue formed by the
cwnbium to aid healing around a wound,
particularly in woody plants.
CAMBIUM Layer of growth tissue
capable of producing new cells 10
increase the girth and length of s1en1s
and roots.
CAPPING A crust forming on the surface
of soil or soil mix caused b)• heavy rain
or watering or by com pac tion .
CHITIN An extract from crustacean and
insect exoskeletons, used in soil mixes.
CHLOROPHYLL Green pigment that
enables plants to capture energy from
sun light and so manufacture food (see
also Photosynthesis).
CHROMOSOME String of genes contained
within a cell nucleus , responsible for
transmil!ing hereditary characteristics.
CLEISTOGAMIC Type of self-pol linating,
often insignifican t, flower that remains
closed .
CLONE A genetically identical group
of plants d erived from one individual
by vegetative propagation or apo111ixis .
COTYLEDON (Seed leaf) First leaf or pair
o f leaves produced by a seed, rrequendy
different rrom the true leaves.
CROSS To interbreed (see also Hybrid).
CROWN I.Upper pan of rootstock from
which shoots arise, at or just below soil
level. 2.Branched part or tree above the
310
trunk. 3.En ti rc rootstock, as in
asparagus and rhubarb.
DICOTYLEDON Angiosperm with two
seed leaves, net-veined leaves, often a
cambium layer, and floral pans in fours
o r fives (see also Monocotyledon).
D1oec1ous \.Vith male and female
flowers on separate plants; both male
and female plants are needed for fruits,
DORMANCY (adj. dormant) Temporar)'
cessation of growth, and slowing
down of other functions, in plants
in unfavorable conditions.
DRILL Narrow, straight rurrow in the
soil, in which seeds arc sown.
EPICORMIC SHOOTS Shoots that develop
from latent or advenririous buds under
the bark or a tree or sh rub , usually close
10 pruning cuts or wounds.
ETIOLATED Describes a plan1 that has
unusually elongated, often pale, shoots
as a resu lt of low light leve ls.
EXTENSION GROWTH New growth made
during one season ,
Eve I .A donnanl or latent growth bud
that is visible at a node. 2.The cen te r of
a flower.
GREX Col lective tenn applied to all
the progen)' of an artificial cross from
known parents of different taxa. tvlain ly
used for orch ids and rhododendrons.
GYMNOSPERM Tree or shrub, usually
evergreen, that bears naked seeds in
cones rather than enclosed in ovaries,
such as co nirers (see cilso Angiosperm).
HEAD BACK To CUL back the main
branches of a tree or shrub by at least
one half of their length.
HYBRID The offspring of genetically
different parents, usually of distinct
species (i nterspecific h)•brid). F l
hybrids arc uniform, vigorous offspring,
resulting from crossing two genetically
pure parents.
INFLORESCENCE A group of flowers
borne on a single axis (stem ).
INTERGENERIC HYBRID Hybrid from lWO
different, but usuallr closely related,
genera.
LATEX Milky white sap or fluid that
bleeds from some p lants when s tem
is cut or wounded; may be irritant.
LINE OUT To insert cuttings or 10
transplant seedlings or new plants
in rows in a nursery bed.
MAIDEN A tree in its first year.
MERISTEM Tip of a s hoot or root in
which cells d ivide to produce leaf,
flower, s1en1 , or root tissue; may be
used in micropropagation.
MONOCARPIC Refers to plants that flower
and produce seeds once, then die,
MONOCOTYLEDON Angiosperm with a
single seed leaf, parallel-veined leaves,
no cambium layer, and floral parts
usually in threes (see also Dicotyledon).
MONOECIOUS \,Vith separate male and
female flowers on the same plant.
MONOPOOIAL With a Stem or rhizome
gro"~ng indefinitely from a terminal
bud , not usually fonning sideshoots.
MOTHER PLANT See Paren t plant.
Nooe Point on a s tem or root, often
swollen , from which shoots, leaves,
leaf buds, or flowers arise.
PARENT PLANT Plant that provides seeds
or vegetative material for propagation.
PETIOLE Leaf stalk , connecting the leaf
LO a stem or branch.
PH Measure of acidity or alkalinity,
used for soils or soil mixes (see Acidic,
Alkaline). Neutral soil has a pt-I of 7.
PHLOEM Pan of tissue within the stem
1ha1 transports nutrients around the
plant (see also Vascular bundle).
PHOTOSYNTHESIS Complex series of
chemical reactions in green plants and
some bacteria, in which energy from
sunlight is absorbed by chlorophyll and
carbon dioxide and water are convened
into sugars and oxygen.
P ITH (of stems) The soft plant tissue
at the center of a s tem.
SAP Plant nuid contained in the cells
and vascular bundle.
SELF-FERTILE Refers lO a p lant that
produces viable seeds when fertilized
with its own pollen.
SELF-STERILE Refers lO a plant that
needs pollen rrom another individual of
the species, but not a done, to produce
viable seeds.
SPORT (mutation) Natural or induced
genetic change, often evident as a nower
or shoot of a differenL color from the
pa ren r plcm t.
S TIPULE Leanike or bractlike structure
borne, usually in pairs, at the point
where a petiole arises from a stem.
STOCK PLANT A plant used to produce
propagation material, whether seeds or
vegetative material.
SvMPODIAL Form of growth in wh ich
the terminal bud dies or ends in an
inflorescence, and growth continues
from the lateral buds.
TAXON (pl. TAXA) A group of living
organisms, applied to groups or plants
that share distinct, defined characters,
TRANSPIRATION Evaporation of water
from the leaves and s tems of plants.
TURGID Refers to a p lant when its cells
are full)' charged with water.
XYLEM vVoody tissue in plants that
transports water and supports the stem.
VASCULAR BUNDLE Conductive tissue,
including the cambium, phloem, and
xylem, that enables sap 10 pass around
the p lant.
 INDEX

INDEX
Page numl)("rs in ,w/1cs rcrcr A.~lm)iu·mtl 187 X Am<1rygi<11,t11k1•M 261 A1,011c>gcw11 168, l 70 A.mo11hytum 24 3
10illusuations Agoms 75 :un:.1ryllis -;cc llippra-.01011 270 AJIOIOHl(HIS 24 3 CISUIICIS 243, 2-U
1\gropy,011 ,epms 11 Amcuyllh 18. 26 1 appks 18. 84 m.vriosrigma 2·B, 2·l3
A Agmsrcmma 220
Agwsris 177, 220
bdla<lomur ·H~nhor· 261
Ambc,-bQ<1 220
sec <1lsc> ,\fcdus
muhiplc trees 12, 57
/\rlt,mcl\is 77
J\th_v,mm 159, 162
Abrli<I 118 A,du vsm, 2-t > J\mchmdtift 75. 11 8 roolstocks 56. 57. 84 J\rnpft'., 220, 295
cuuings 94 sCdljr,lmm 2-12 (Ultlt l (tl 75 :.1pJ>ro:.1<.h Rr.:ir1mg 12. 27. JOJ Aubdrw (aubrc1la) 189
Abeliopltyllum 119 A1/mul111.s 18, 75 .tmClhY-,1 \'IOICI 221 apricol 'it'f Pn11111s 87 cumngs 189. 189
Abelmosclrns 187 root cunlngs 75, 75 1\mhn,;1ia noln/1\ 75 :_1qu:11ic-. sec water garden joy' 189
rsrnlcnw 292 ~,ir l:.lyeriog 12, 25, 25. 64, 6-1. Amon 120 pl:.llllS A11rnl><1 1 l8
Abirs 72. 73. 74 105. 105 1\mm pJl()11lwlh,s 261 /\<111ilegw 164. 189 berries I JS
l:orc·a,1ti 74 Alw 220 Amptlo11.:;i-. I 19 .'\rnb,, 18<> cuumg'> 95
scion nuncri:.ll 74 a1rpl~rn, scr rill,mclsw J\mpl,icome sn· J11rnn 1llrn ArctdtiS 2()4. 29'1 auricles 163. 163
Abromt·iridld 174 Ajuga 148. 187 t\mygtlt1lm sci- Pruuw, 1-\rc,dmis 181 Aurinw 18<)
1\ln11 ilcm l 02. l 04. l 18 Altt•bio 119 1\11acmd1um 75 Arnlw j"l'm11ct1 Sf< l·,usia J-\1,strocedrns 77
Ac"dn 5-l, 74, I IQ <111ill(IICI; layering 106 J\muydm. 187 jnpo11i((1 au1umn crocus 264. 264
b"ilt·y,mo 74 Albi::m 75 J\mrg,dhs 187 Arm1nrrir1 70, 76 ;tt11unm d:.lITodil sre
J\C(l('tl(I 187 A/burn 26 1 J\11,mcrs 18. 17-l. f74 Arbutu, 10. 55. 76 )1ernbc1gicl
,\c11ly11lw 11 () Alcca 187. 220 J\111111he1r1s 187 m1rdo 76 ao1umn oh\lC sre H<1ee1gn11s
Arcmlholmum 16-l. 187 gi.llhcring "-Ceds 2 J A11d1uso lb7. 187, 220 Aritmm 18 126
1\cw11hopmuix ~ff Aldumil/<1 187 J\,ulrosau l64. 167. 188 A,c toi.fc1ph_vfos I IQ avoc:1do srr Ptrsr,1
Elcu1l1rH>f()(CUS all'uw f 87 hinrll,1 J6-1 /\,c lc>fli. I SQ ;1z.1lca srr Rl10doclrn<l1(m
A<anrJms 18. 186 molh;; 187 J\11r111om· 26. 164. 25-1 A~"rdl<, 18()
""'''"' 77, 119
r(>(>I cuumgo, rSS alder 53. 75. 75 g..l1hering seed, 188 At1',!(rlw su Ni·mrgcfia Aztec: lilv 277
S#'llll>)Ull J86 J\lhma 168. 170 fibrous.rooted and An;11cui<1 167, 189 i\zmnN n1·u-. 24 \
Acc,1 I l9 1\ll,muuufo 1 18 rhizom<HOU"- 188 A1grmo11._- 220
1\ c<r 11 . 52. 56. 58-9. 74
seeds 18. 53. 53
rnOwrli<a I 18
1\llmm 2b0. 291-3
wherou., 261
A11e11w11rllc11J1<1/i£l1<>it/r, 261
A,gv,c1111J1rmum 119
A,gy,on,fisus 00Hm1<lil'ti 125 B
Ad11llt,1 22, 167, 186 .1eri:1I lrnlb1l, 260 A11rmonop,;1;; m,1crol'l1,•llll ISt) At,!{W()(/t·nt1d 24 3 8e1buma 261
'Tayge1ca· 186 aper (bulb orm)n<,) 292-} 1\nr1hum g,mt·ofrns (dill) AriO<tffJ>US 243 bab)•1 brea1h !ltr Gy1hOf1l1ifo
Acl1ime11rs 186 Aggregatum Group 290. 291 Au-.crr11111 250. 26 l 19'>. 224
e,.r,w 186 (shallots) 293 .111gd wmg!. SC'C' Ct1lmlmm cmul1<l1s.sin11un 26J backbulbs 178. 179-80. 179
wbe,tlcs 27. 27. 186. 186 1>laniing SCIS 292,292 Angd,rn 189, 220, 290 Arhmum 189 Lt,1d,housicr 77
J\d111ml1cnon ,;c•r Stipa sowing 292-3. 292 angel's fishrng rod -.er Arhli'CI 189 ll<liky11 220
J\r1pl1yll<1 187 <ris1opl1ii 253 Dk1mntt Aristofod1w 11 () balsam st·t· Jtn1,.11icns
/ \(tll('tl(l75 gathering seeds 260 J\11gio1neris 159, 163, J63 Anne, ut 188 ll<llsc1111i111 21 1
J\co11ir1un 187 fls1ulos11111 309 angiospenns l6. 17. 17, 310 A,mmcufa ,ust1rmw !xunboo-. I 75
Aconis 168. 171 h0Hm1d1rnm 260. 260 A11gopl1orn 75 (horscratli.c:h) 289. 291 chv1'-lon 17'>-6. I 75
J\tm<lmmtu sr1· Rl10tfo11tl1r ·Purple !>cns.1lion· 260 Angrarcum 181 cuttings 288, 288 8cunb115<1 177
J\(l{t((I 187 moly 260 A11guf()(1 181 Anuw 189 b:rnana lOi. 204
J\t1i111din 118 offS<IS 254 x A11g11lornstt 181 A1cmi<1 22, 119 B,mJ:.:;i" 119
cxtmc11ng :-ced~ I 18 po,.n,m (leeks) 281. 286. 1h1igoz<1111hos 189 mdm1ocw p<i: seed lle1rbm~c1 210, }09
J\clo 181 293 animals: seed dispcr-:.al by 18 s1r,11ffic:.l1ion IOJ b;ltherl)' s1•r fk,bc,1i;
J\clmnsouw 75 1rnn.-.plan11ng .,ni:,c hy,;sop 290 ,urow :1rum 168 &tl:ni<l 181
J\clcma 241, 2-13 -.cecllings 29J AIIIWll(I 75 :.1rrowhead 168 8toldw1 77
A<leni11111 241, 2-n l()lii'.IUJI 260 annttals and biennials 2 14- ) () Ari1·1111sw l 19. 188 b~1rrci1worl srt· f1>1mcdium
ObfS Ultl subsp. SOCOHC111um sc11n 11111 (garlic) 292, 293 .\-2. 220-9 dracunculus (1:.1rragon) basal culling-. 166-7. 166
10 plan1mg 293 c;harac1cri<;.11cs 215 29 1 basal heat St"f bouom heat
A,liaruum 159 -whon10111Mum (ch1\·t-s) -.ccdlmg!, 21 S subsp. ,lrntunculoitl.-s b~&'ll stem 1.:utting, 156-7.
,·additmwn ·Fritz Luthi' JC,O 282.291 h,mJcnmg orr 218 291 156. 157. 263. 263. 266.
Adlumio /1rngo~, 220 s1,harmcrplwlo11 260 1hin111ng 2 IQ, 219 Artlunpodi111n 18Q 266. 277.277
Adonis 164, 187. 220 \itmdt 260 1rnn~pl:uuing 217-18 At1oc<11 pus 77 IJasdla albu 309
Atlromisclllfs 234. 24 3 A/10<asumit1,1 75 seed!'>: :m1,gul.1 309 b:l.Sil see Ckim um lx1sil,cum
.1dven1itious: .1lmoncl set Pnmus 87 hu)•ing 210. 216 !-\nun 256. 20 I &rssur 220
buds 22. 218. 310 A/,111s 53. 75. 75 g.11hering 216, 216 hcrri('5 261 &mera 119
growths 181. 181 Alocasia 220 1>ro1ccting 2 I9 An,nn,s 189 &rn11111i,, 77
TOOIS 24 Aloe 234, 243 s.1or111g 216,216 ,\nm,hnoria I i7 b.1)' 2S9. 290. 291
Aulm1ca 173. l7J. 174 seeds 232 viabilily 216 Anmcfo 177 bean sprouts 308-9
Aronium 2·12 J\lo11soa 187 ~owing 215, 216-19 (1011((.\' J 76 beans 282. 304
nrboreum 2•12. 2-f2 Alopecurus 177 in ccnnai11C'r!> 217. 217 Asm 111(1 /II O(Wt1l~11s 189 be.irS breeches srr 1\<m11l1us
Ac,i,lr's 181 Aloysit1 119. 29 1 mudoors 218-19. 218, thd1·11i<I$ 18. 189 beaulybcny 120
Acsd1y11m1thus 220 alJ>incs 164-7 219 i-\)(0<~·111111111 181 bcauly bush 132
J\r$culus 22. 74. I IQ conditions for 164 1ime for 216-17 :lSh srt fuL\'IIIU\ bee b-1lm 290
ga1henng !>Ced~ 74 cumng-. lob-7, 166. J6i A110tla 220 A)llltultl I 19 beech sec Fngu~
frui1 53 lypes 166 A111emwria 189 Aspwagu~ 26, 189 hccch . sou1hcrn 8-1
/11,,pot<1$l<lll1UII -18 from 5':eds 164-5. 16-1. 16.5 J\11thtmis 35. 189 ,iffl<111t1/1\ 194-5, 281 hce1> 28~. 286. 295
Attl11<memcr 186 ::.eccl~: A,uhrrirnm 189 clividmg 29-1-.5. 295 "-Ceds 295
Arncan blue hly $1!t'. g;ulu.~ring 164. 164 J\11tl10h•.w set C,tKosmw a:.1>amgu, pea "309 beet-., leaf 295
1\g<IIHlllll111~ germination 165 A11cl1riscus 189. 220 ;b1>en s,·1· Pc>1>uill) HrK"mrt 16, IQO. 262-3
African spinach 309 w:,king 104 ccrefolium 290- 1 Aspewl,1 220 has.ii s1cm cuuings 263.
African violcl sci· St1i1111,crnliC1 ,1r:111fk:u1011 164. 165 A11tlrnrium 188 ,hpl1odcJi1u~ 189 263
J\gapmuhus 187 t\lpinw l87 cmdr,,ca,1um 188 r\spl10tltlus 189 h.·af cu11mg, IQO. 190
'Blue Gl:.llll' 187 Als.c,bw sn- Ep1sci<1 A11t1nhi,um1 189 As1,ul1mt1 189 'Organdy· J 90
gathering seed 187 J\lM,pl11lt1 ~u CyarJu-a nsarina 18Q As1>lr111mn 159 :.ccl1C>mng 202. 262
di\liding 150, 187 Als1,ocmtrnr 260 h)'bridizmg 2 I b1,lbifrrnm 159. 161 seed cap~uk 262
Agosiacl1t 220 ga1henog ~cedl> 256. J\phrlm1tfra 11 () bulbils 161. 161 square lc:.lr CUiiing~ l 90
foeniculwu (A. tmisma) 260.260 3plml,; 46 scolopt·ndrium 159. 161 Bdom«uula 19 l
290 J\lttrnw11l1r,.,1 187 .1pical•wcdgc gr.:1r11ng 27. 58. 1-h tt'lirr 22 bell jars 13
Agailwea ser l·dici<1 Alyogynt 119 82. 108-9. 108. HI . 241 A,tt·r 22. H6. 148. 15 1. srr also cloches 39
Aga(liis 75 Alyssum 187 J\JJIIIIII 294 155. 189 Bdlrv,llio 263
1\ga>e 234-5. 242 Amt1n11uJ1us 220 gl'avco/m.~ 29-1 umbdlatus 22 bcllnowcr stt Cam11w111re1
(1111erica1w ·v.:iricga1a· 2-12 ga1hering seeds 220 var. 1llfNlffWH 294 "'""" 22. 149. 189 8rllis 191
AgfrtUUIII 220 OlltlllUS 309 3pombas 78. 90, 310 ,htnmtw 189 bells or Ireland 215

311
INDEX

lkl'bc'riS 11 q B"1 ..,1w 121. 282. 283. 285. 8utbmellci 191 Ct1laiul, 1111<1 19 I (cu thmni,s 223
CUiling,;; 96, J JC) 2()(r-7 bulble1< 25. 16. 254. 255. C<lla111l1t 185 <.mwn rnni kar.:1wa)·) 290.
OCrg.111101 290 " " 111,1ttr 109 272- 3. 2i2 Calmlita 191 lQI
IJe•gcnm I(}()-1 ,uiro 297 1Jutl10c°'-l11m1 26 3 Ccdao/w io 12 l , 190 Cmy" 7i
coiclifolicr 191 JIUU ('ti 109 1Julbopl1r/lum 181 Calcncfoltl 221 Cmyoptnh 121
di\•iding 190 \'<lr. japmurn 109 bulbous pfoms 12. 25- 27. offio,u1lii. ' Art ';h.1dc-.· 22 I (arymt1 ()5. 66
rfuzomc CULllllj!_S, IQl. 191 ne1pu~ 297 151-Q seed ,;u ucturt 22 l (<l\J.1(1 77
Jk,ilroll1·1ia t"\'n·ls.n 77. i l l\~tpobra~K•l Group ,\-/, lo0-79 C.1lifomia lilac.' ser Cecmc>drns Ct1~~111ur 12 1
Ur,wfomu 191 297 char.1c1cn ..tic~ 2'H (...11ifornia pop1>> 224, 22-' Cds..,id/'t 12 I
Brtu \ 111,l{m ,,. 29'> o/rrocrt1 22 1 cluppmg 2'B . 258, 25<>. C.1lifornia fo(hsia 213 Costcmm 53, 77
subsp. ,,uf.i;:cu u (heel) .\ccphala C,roup 297 259 Calla 168 Cos.ranop<ts 121
284, 286, 295 Hou) tis (,roup conncls 155. 255 c:,1ll:1 hi) ,t·,· :~m1t'dc,due1 Las1writ1<1 77
6t10111rn stt Sw, In, (<:.1uhOowcr) 282. dorm:int pet1od.., 2'H C,dilm1cfm 121 Cottlf1)(1 77
Btml,1 20, 52, U.> 196 h)'bl ;dJ:lng 257 Ct1lhet11·110 120 sce<l1>0ds 77
ca1S..in 5.l C.ip1t.i1.1 Grou1> off,cis 22, 25, 25,, 254-5, C11/11opsis iin,wria 223 Cowuc111(/1,· 191
iatherrng ...ced... 76 (cabbage) 282. 284. 254 Ccrll1"i" IQI c.nchn, -.er Lwlous
grafted: af1c1t:are 76 2.~5 sc~,ling 253, 25~9. 258 Ce1ll1s,rnwu 121 cm,wr,oulu,,; 193
pc'11iula 76 Gcmmifcm (,roup 2<>5 S<OOp,ng 25>, 271,271 (e1/11~lfpl111\ 111 Cawps1s 17-1
sowrng -.ecd.-. 5-l <,ongrlodcs C,roup scol'iog 233,268. 268 d 1rnt•mi,; Pompon ~erics c~111 ..,i1 srr fvplw 168
ut1/1s v.-r. 1«u1,,,.mo11t11: 297 S(:CIIOniog 2..,) 221 Ccmlevc1 180. 180. 181
~Ultlllg:t. 52 h,1l1ca <,roup from seeds 253. 2Sb-7, Caf/11n, 77 m11m11iorn J i8
ffalt'II'- 191 (broccoli) 285. 256, 257 Ccrllww l lO. 11 1 C,Hllcy.a, 178. 180-1
bicnn1;1ls su annu,11s and 2QC,, 197 seedlings 257 ( Uttlllg.-. J 10, J 10 <.:,1ulinowcr 282. 296
bicnni,11, fronc:hud,1 (,rou1> 30Q seeds: ,•ul_~w I\ ·Rohen (_ h,1pman· Ccm1mlw~ 121
bHbcrrics J6, 142 UIJHI; gathcrmg 256. 256 110 CUiiing, 94. 96
611/bc,g"' 172. 173. I 74 \'.lr. 11llm.~lcdm1 3()Q gcrmin~mon 257 c:,ll)u.., 11 .....,uc 23. 3-8, 10Q. ,09 ·Pm Cushion' 121
bind\\'ccd ~ee Com,c)h ulus \', I f. Cl11tH"ll'>i\ 297 twin-,caling 253. 259. Ce1tme,tru~ 76 cedar il. 77
birch ser Bftultr ,·.tr. pd:inrn<,i\ 19b 259 Ced()( ,,one· 121 inccn,c 70
bird's nc,;,t hromcliad 174 R.tp1fl·m C,roup bulbs 15, l5 Cc1lod10,1us 2b3 J:tp:mc...c 78
hillCrtTCSS 18. IQI ( IUllll(h) 18(>, 197, B11plttlwlm11111 191 wlm1t1 257 Cnhu!> 77
biucrroo1 srt I cwisici 297 Huplt'urum 121. 191 \'C'IIIISlm 16.3 flowe r, if
biuerswec1 122. 122 trnn ...pl:rnlmj!_ ...ccdling, b u rdock 18 C<1lc"'kml111m 77 (film 77
8i.wr <urllmu, 77 297 bt1rning bush ser Fmmw11us C11l0111tn11 220 Cdll~tm\ 11.l
bl:1ckbcrries 11. HO X B1t1"Ml<Cllll.-_w1 181 127 c,1forl10m1111, 121 mbirnfrlfui 122
bl.1ck gum srr ,'!) S'ic, 84
1
X Utt1.S~llc,diotcrlllne1 181 H111taga11<r 180 Cofpu, uw 77 TOOi c:ullrng~ 122
bl,1dder rem I 5<> brc,,d whc~ll. C\'Olul1on 11 . 11 hti...h violcl 21 1 Calttw 168 eclcr-i,1c 29-t
Blmul{orditt IQ I 8rC\t)Otlid 267 lni...r Uz:.1c; ~ff hllJl(llifns Cl1ly<w11lws 121 cdcry 29 ..
blanket Oower IQ7. J9i. 124 8nmrurn 203 811tw b) C,1h n111111111hum 24 3 Ccfousw 10-f, 167, 192
bl:111kct weed 168 8rimmthl' um St't" :\gCl\1t1du~ 8utomu\ 168 (.(1/wri\ I 2l Cdosie1 222
Bit"( 11111011 159. 1(,1 Bri~,1 221 uml,rlt!IIUS , i I Cm11,1s,;i<1 fricl111ini1 203 Cdsio sec \h'b<1sc11m
81c11/to 18S g.itlu.·ring seeds ,!2 I buner bc.111,; 304 Cmm·lli,193, 120- 1 Cdlis 77
b lood my 270, 270 bro.id bc,ms 308. JOS buttertup s1:c Rcmmu uhn dd1grnftin~ 121 Cemm1rt,1 193, 222
blue l>OJ>P> srr .\lrwnops1, broccoh lQO. 297. 30<> butterfly bu~h sa Uml,ll1:,t1 c;:uumg;, Q7. 97. 101 Cc11u11mwt1 223
b luebell 270 intcn..ropping 285 butterfly nower 229. 229 hrbndizmg 120 Cctttrmul1us 193
blucbc,·nei. 142 Jfr~litft'd 263 BtL(US (bc>xwt)Oc.l) 96. l 20 Cw111'w111i,112. 167. IQI. 22 1 C.r11lwtcmth11,; 123
bluemist shrub 121 Hromdit1 174 scmpC', ,·11f11S 120 rocl1/m1iiJ<>lic1 J 9J Ce1>11ediJHcru111 223
Bo<ccmia 203 bromch.uJ-; 3Q, I 72-4 nmlimn: ...c,:dhn~!', 221 tl~111udourcu,; 243
bog :1rum 168
bog p lams 168
cuttmg ... 174. 17-l
d1v1dmg off:,('t... 172-1, C Hllllftl J9J
ttlf)IUIC11foS 309
Sl'11iti~ 2·13. 2-IJ
Cq,lwtophyllum 24 3
bogbcan 168 I 72 cabbage palm 65 ~owmg 152 Crwri,1 241. 2-13
bok choi 2Q7 tp1phy1ic: 172. , 72, 17 3. cabb:.tp,es 282. 284 camJ)ion -.u Jsdm,,. Ct·ws-rum1 I<H
8oftL'CJQI I 7J oruamcnt.11srr Hrnssirn Cmt1ps1s 120 O·rntonw 77
8Qllo11i" I() I dividing 172 olrmua candle plant 251 Cna1ost1gmt1 24. 123
I1"1u:.,ml1ms sprcio,;u,; 77 ...owing 173-4, 17J Portugal 309 cand}'lllfl 'iff Jbr11s C1•rncl111hyllum j,1pm1icum 77
8ombnx 77 sa.xicolous 17 2 1mn">pbnting 28.'> Canismon 174 Cl',nS '>), 77
Bongmilw rlu) "'<>Kmuun 2.03 rrom seeds I 7l-4, J iJ Catalw 225 c,oma )Ql seedpod~ 77
boragc 2QO, 2Q I. 291 terrcs,rial 172, 173 cacti 230-41 c.-.n1erbury bells (Cwn1Km11f,1 Ccn.-us 2-1-0, 2+4
&wgo 19 l , 220 dhiding J i2 A-Z 242-5 1 me,lmm) l<) l. 221. 221 h1/dmam1rc111us nu)n..:;iro~
offi<inal,s (bor.,gc) 290. scroph) tic 172 charac1crist1cs 2 >I (m1tutf 12 1 form 24-l
2'11. 291 Umm1" 220 cns1;11c formio 21 1, 2 36. Cape cow-.hp 272. 272 s1em cuuings 24-l
Bmassus 65, 66 hroom ~u t)'lisu~; Gr111st<r 23Q C.1p<: goo...,bcrry 3(JQ Crwpegi£r 24 1. 2·H
borders: m~uking ou1 218 Hm,,....,011ct111 77 cuuings 236,236, 237-H, C1~ pnmro...c St'f did1owmcl 244
borccolc 297 Broh,dht1 221 238 St1(ptcmu1m~ division or tubers 235,
Ooro11ic1 l 19 Hmhmngw 2;} dividing 234, 235 Cnp~1r1m1 222 235
IJor::i<acius 248 B,ud:rnllwlid 119 cpiphy1ic 235, 238 CllllllllUU: l111rn,.is subsp. woodii 2J5.
0()(;1011 i\')' 136. 136 Htugmm,._w I IQ grof11ng 231. 23Cl-4 I, 2.39. Gro:,,M1m Group 298 241. 244
bo1rr11, "ft' grar mold Bnuifthw 11() 240.241 'I lot Mexican' 280 -;1em cuuings 2-14. 244
boulctrec 76 Hituutrttr 191 monsu·osc forms 231, Longum Group 298 succute11U1 244
bouom he.it 41. 4 l X 811111:.dmum pm l:ni 161 236.239 ga1hering !,CCd~ 298 Ct'IU'IUII 123
Rougmm 11/r" J I(} 8r101s,·1gi<1 261 neon-colored forms 231, fn1trsa,1s 309 Cru·racl1 set' 1\spl<mum
gfobm 'Varicg,ua· 119 Brus:,,,eJ~ !>()touh 29b 2\Q. 247 Cme1gt111t1 121 CC)·lon <;l)lll!lCh 309
'Sc~1rlc1 I .1dy' J6 Uryophy/111111 l-U 1<,dt1tu l1or off,cts 22. 235 scarifying sccch 102 Clwt11m11rk<i 122
Rourdmw 177 buckt)'t lier Atscu/11., pollination 16 C:.lf:.lW;\)' 290, 29 1 g;11hering seeds J22
HOWl'lli(I (l(} buckler fern J 5Q by h,nd 233. 2JJ C<mlmmnr 18, l9 1 dmin fern Sfl' WotXhtcll"Clic,
l,oxwood 96. 120. 120 budd;,,g lo, 27, 4Q, oO-}, 60, roo1c;1ock:, 239. 240 Ctirdioo111um 254, 263 C,1m111u·cy1,a1 i\ 70. 78
Hoykmw IQI 61. 62 from ~ccd, 23 1, 232- 3. eardoon 28 1, 30 I 'Ch1lwot1h Silver' 70
Hrncl1yrl11lm11 I<)() chip-budding 60-1, 60, 2J2.2J3 CXll'aCting :t.CCds JOJ ,wotlu11(·ns1s ·Pcndul.1' 78
B1tiel1yd11tcm 76 61 . JJO M!Cdhng~ 2J2, 23) Cllr(X 191 obtustt 'Cripp:,h' 78
Brnd1ys,omc <srn. T•budchng 62-3. 62, .;1and:1rd, N 1, 250 Cmirn J'l<l/ta)'CI 77 Clwn1t11·,fon:rr 65. 67
Brnrhyromc) l 9 I. 220 I H - 15, 1 H , 115 varieg:ucd fo rms 236 Ct11iSS(l 121 Orcu11m•mdm11 H7, 193
Hrnr11•,01Jlw 121 buddlcia stc 8udcllr1a 120 Cm·s,dpi11111 77. l 2 l Cwlmc1 191 Chmmu·nc·rion Sff l;pilvbwm
l,,c1tlrma cuhivar 221 B1eddlcjt1 120 Ccdculmm 202-3 Cllrmidwdin l 2 1 c,1wnatSJN1r11um 11()
bmkc ViQ cunings 9'1 b,wloi 161 carnation sa l)imu,1us ..::hard 295
brnmblc.<. 1-1-0 ,fm,idii: 'Empire Blue· 120 orf>,Ct~ 26J C(mlegie<I gigt1tH('C1 230, 2-13 'Rhub,orb Ch,rd ' 295
Bnrssaur 89 bulbils 26. 26,161.161, 171. .;cctmnmg 262. 262-J Cw1->r11reria 12 l Clwsnumrlu• 26>
H1t1(;1ief\'oftt 181 171 . 254. 255, 27,, 273 C,1lmnt1~ro..,lis 177 lwphrns brwlus 19, 84 Chr1u111!1111~ su E,ysumun
Brn'.'lsia 181 Bu/bin.- ICJ I Calm11mtlw 191 C.'. MrOlS 282. 284. )0). JCJ Clu:111e/c,1'$H• 2-H

312
 INDEX

Cl1efo11r l<>3 Cli,uul1us L2-f corn 16, 283, 285. )08-<l, Curr1mw 19.3 Cytlomcn 265
Cl1r11011odUun 2()8 /onnosus 124 308. 309 corl>' ka.lc 2()7 cilicium 265
c.l1eri111oya 75 seedling grail l24 corn salad 309 cu rrants l39 seeds 164. 265, 265
chcrr)': sa Pn111us clim:.uc 36-7 cornnower 222 C11not111.s sa Crocosmi(t Cyclobo1hra l111ea 263
chervil 2<)()-1 t)'J)CS )6 Cornus 78. J09. l 2-f Clltlingc; 22-4, 2J Cy,lonia 57. 79
chcsmul srr Caswnca z.oncs of world J7 ,,Iba 'Elcgantissima· 124 of alpines 166-7, 166, oblonga 79, 88
Cl1iasiopl1yllum 193 climbers 92- l I 7 CUlUngs 98. 99, J24 16i Cymbiclium 26. 180. 181
chick pea )OQ buddini 9) fruits 78 b:isal lot>-7. l66 dividing pSC\tdobulbs
chicory 298 ch;lr:IClCriSIICS 93 ·Porlock' 78 ba-.:ll ,.,tcm 150-7, 156. 179
{.h1lc:m bamboo 175 nmings <>3. 94-10 1 Corokia 12-1 l5i, 26), 263. 266, Cym1>0po,~(m l 77
(.hilf.':m bdtnowcr 132 graf1ing 93, 108-9 Coronilltr l 24 266. 277, 277 Cy11am:
Ch1l(':tll blue CTOCII'- Sf(' l:lycnng ()3, 105-7 Conyott1ct11s 2-1-1 of ca.tu :ind :-.ucculcnl.!-> ra,dunrufus (cardoon)
TL'roJJhila('ll 278 npcnc•<;.., or wood 9"f Cortculau, 22. 177 236-8. 2.36, 237, 238 281 , 301
<.:lnlc:m wine palm b5 from -,,eed~ 102-4 Corycl11l1s 16-1, 192, 254. 257, callu:,ing 2.3 extracting seeds JOJ
d111i pCpJ)('N 280. 298 ~ccdhtad <i l 02 264 of conirtr:, 70-1. 70 ~colymus (globe
Cl1im(nllm1hus 123 sc:lf·brcring 10i. 107 seedpod, 26-1 crownshoo1~ 17-J, 17-1 art1thoke) 30) , JOI
Cl11mo1wbm11bu;:;n 177 <;uckcr.!-> 91 ~ccdlings 192 greenwood 23. 52, 52. off...et~ 301
Chm:, a... 1cr 22 I . 22 J climbmg rem 161 CorylopSi5 124 100, IOI, 155, 166, 166 Cy,wdou 177
dnru;hcrmchc,~ 27~ Cliw, 111 1<n C:orylu, 16, 53, 78, 105, l09, hardwood l 2, 23, 23, Cy,wglossum L93. 223
ChmC'.::(' :utichokc 308 Clnic, 193 125 50- 1, 50, .51 , 86, 98-9, C>t><lla 264
Ch11tc-.c brocc:oh 309 cloche, 13. 39-10, .l9 Cory110<<11 p us 79 98, 99,1 12, 112 C)l>'FUS 168, 169
Chmcsc cabbage 296 don:,l propaga11on l l Cory1,ht1 um,naculifrm 16 sp.att·S.1.vmg 99, 99 u1volu,rm11s 17 J
ChtnC$C goOSt'hcrry 118, 118 doi.ed ca~:-. .38, 19, ·H. ·H Corn,lu111ilu1 245 heel 23, 5 1. 96, 96, 287, Cyf'IU)/JICHl(lrc, 79
Ch111C:,C Sp1n:it:h 220 Cobaen 124 Cosru.i, 193 287 CyJJIWsrrmmc1 2.f-l
CJ1u>11at11hus 12) C0tc ololm 79 Co1urns l05. 125 history 12 C:) 1>rcss see Clwmauypdris:
Cl11c>r10<hlo<, 177 Co<hltw ICI cu mOHltlCI Sl"t: ex1rac1ing seeds 125 in1ernod~ll 22, 94. 94. 97. cu,,,cssus
Cl1io,i()(loxa 263 A, tllOI (l(ICI IIL~tiamc, Coionrasrr, 107. 125 97 Cyt,dJ>rdium LS-I. 185
jo,btsu 26.l cockscomb 222 cuuings 94. 96 leaf 23. 157, 15i. 167, Cyrilfo 124
X CliicmoscilJa cdlcni 263 coco.de.mer see Lo(/()iaa scilicifolius 'Gnom· 125 190, l90, 208,208. C~-nmuhus 254. 264
chip-budding 00- I. 60. 6l. cocomu LS. 19. 65 cottonwood srr Populus 210, 2JO. 2i3. 27J. c)'nomium J 59
130 double 65. 66 Cowla 223 277,279 Cys1op1e,·is I 59
chipping 25. 25. 253, 258. Cocos: Cotyi<clon I<>3. 245 scct1oned 157. 157 Cytistts 125
259.259,268.268. 270, rnpiraw 65 cowbcrry l 42 succulent 230-7. 237, X prnrco'( 'Allgokl' 12.5
270 1111cijrra (coconu1) 18. 19. crabapple scr i\l(lfus 248
Cl,iril(I 223
chivc-s 282. 29 1
65
cocoram 29<)
crndlc on;hid 18 l
Crnmbc 193
lc:ir-bud 23, 2J, 79, 80,
97,97 D
{.11/idm11#111( Jmgrm1s 26 l C0<licmo11 L2-1 1tU1rilit11<1 299 mallet 96, J 19 Dt1bc>tCW 110
C,1Jomphyuuu romoswn 192 Coclo1101hiS 16-J. 193 Culling$ 299,299 nodal 22-3, 23, 94, 94. cu11ings I LO. I 10
di\'iding 150. I SO Corlogy,u· 18 1 crauber-ric~ 142 97,97 Dtmvlis 177
Clw1:,;ya 123 Col< 223 cranesbill set Gomaium llOd al Iii> 120 o,mylo,11iw 185. 185
chop :,ucy grt::cm. 309 Cold1icutt1 26-f Crt1Spe,laa 193 orchid cane l8l. 181 daffodil see N,m:issus
CJ111:UtllSl"lliC1 163 dividing 264 Crnssula 23-f. 236-7. 245 or perennials 154-8 Dalilia 21, 266
Christmas cac1us 238, 24 l. cold d:.lmagc 46 11e,1'e,111a 245 rhizome J91. 192. J92. cuuings 266. 266
24l, 250 cold frames 13, 40. 40. 104 crassula fomil)' 232. 234. 288.288 daisy bush st·e Olcari<t
Cluysa,ulu:11111111 JJ. 148. 153, Coleus Sri' Sole,iosttmon 236-7 ri1,cwood 166. l66, 189. Dmnmar(r 75
192,222 Colktia 124 + Crnwegomespilus 79 J89 damping off -16
au.ma, ium 309 Col/i11sia 223 Crmcrrgus 54. 56. 6 L 78 root 23-4. 23. 75. 75. dandelion 18. )09
cunings I 56. 157 Collomic, 223 Cn·pis 223 l22. 158, 158, 167, Dm1rlu;mic, 177
'Yvonne Arnaud' J92 Colorn.si<l 264. 2()9 cress 20, 303. 303 l6i, 288,288 Daphne 102, 103, 126
Chrysogo1111m "i,ginim111m 193 cuuings 299 Crinifaria $~(' Asur roo1-bud 17 1. 171 grah111g me1hods 126
Chryso1,hyfl11m 79 Cohmmrn 1 I Crinoclcnclnun 79 ro,cuc l66, 167. l67, l7l , Dwnu•rn 193
Clwsqura 175. 177 Coht1e,1 12-f Cri11111n 261 . 26.J 237, 237 date 1>:1lm 16
Ciar (Hit•finum 30Q arbo,.escrns I 24 d ividing, offsc1.s 25-1. 2.5'1 <df-roo,cd l66, 167 Dm1lm11m1ra 9 1
Cichorium 298 Coh illw ,·,1umosc, 79 Crocosmia 25-1, 264-5 scmi·n pe 23. 23, SI, 51, Dcmcus (curots) 282. 28-4,
cilamro ser Co,-imulnnn 291 Comarnm sec J>otrurilla dividing 264-S. 26f-S 9'>-6, 95, 96, 110, l JO, 30 1, 30l
Cimicifuga 193 Commdilw 26-1 mt1so11ionm1 264 lll, l20, 155,288 Dawlllia 159
Ci1111m1101mun 7Q concnowcr SU Ruclbcckit1 c,·,,tus 25-J. 255. 257. 265 type- l20 di\'iding rhizomes 162,
cmqt1cfo1I SC'C' Polt'11tiHn cones 17, 7 l-72 gathering :,.ecds 256, or ~hrubs and climbers l62
Ci,.sitmt 191 cx1rnc11ngsccds 7 1-2, 71, 265 94- 101 solida cuhi\'ar 162
Cissus 122 72 crop ro1a11on 282-3 ,lips 174, IH D<1vulia 10-1 l , 5-l-, 79
(l,;111~ 122 conifor~ 70-3 croton l 2-t sof1wood 23, 23, 52, 52, dawn redwood set
cumngs J22 cuttings 70-1, 70 crowfoot set Ra111mt ulus 83,83, l()().. I, JOO, MctMtquoit1
Citluucxylum 79 cxtr:ictmg seeds 72, 72 trown s hoots 174. JN 112-13, 112, 156, 166, d:t)•lil)' sec Hcmcroall1is
X C11u,jort1mdill 123 grafting 59, 73 crown or thorns 246 166, 266,266, 287, Dcce1ist1to L27
Citnliluli 298 from seed:-. 71-2 crowns l I 287 dee1> h<:ds see raised beds
C.tms 63. 78 Ctmopl1ytu111 245 Cryptm11l111s 174 square leaf 190 Dclo11ix 79
l,nio11 78. 78 bilobmn 2-15 pram:xws l 72 s1em 22-3. 79. 154- 6. Ddos1>rnna 244
Cladmulius 223 Consolicfo (larkspur) 223 x C1)•1>1bc,gia 174 185. l85. 211. 2l J. ot1,,h111imn 18, 149. 151. 153.
Claclms1is 79 thinning 219 Crypromeria 78 302.302 192
Clal'l<ia 219,222 con1~1iners 30-L, .30. 31 Crcna,u11e 193 of cacti 236. 236. 238. CUHings 156. 156
·Brillian( 222 ConwdJaria 148. 151. 192 cucumbers 282. 300 238,249,249 ·fanfare' 192
Clayro,iia 193 majolis 192 Cucumis: columnar 238. 238 Ornclnmrlu,ma see
dta\'trS LS rhizome Cllltings 192. 192 mdo 300 nat 238. 2J8 Chrysa111l1e11111111
Clcisrorncrus 240. 245 Conrnt\'ulus 124. L93. 222 extracting seeds JOO globular 238,238 Ornd1vb1um 179, LSI
nat grafting 2-15 sowing in rockwool 222 safivus (cucumber) 282. stcnHip 101. 154. J5-I . adventitious growths 181.
wi111eri 245 co,,i<1po11 244 300 155-6. 166 181
Clematis 23. 24. L07. 123 Coprosnu, 124 sowing JOO in roll I 55. 155 Cllttings ISL l81
,inncmdii 123 conllbells see flfud ,rr,, Cucurbita 300 i n waler 155-6 1Je,ulroct1lamus I 77
'Bill MacKenziC'' 92 Cor<li" 79 Cudmnic1 82 of trees 50-2 Dc-ncltod1ilum 181
g:uhcr-ing seeds 123 ConlyJi11e 79 C11pJ11w 12-1 types 2 l-1, 23. 9-1 Dm<l1omeco11 127
cuttings 9"· 97, 123 Con·o,,,,, 19), 223 Cupid's bower 186 woundmg 23. 95 Oen rm ur set Ccucfmn111t
dividing 12J coriander 290, 291 X C11pl'CSSOl)'l)lll IS 79 Cycuhe<1 JS9, 163 Dcsclwmpsi<i 177
from seeds 123 CorimuJnun ~t1fivmn (c1l:mtro) ltylmulii 79 cycad.< 17, 49, 68-9 de.sen candle L95. 195
CJr()m(' 216. 222 290,291 Cupl'dsus 70, 72, 79 div1diog offsets 69. 69 desert rose JO
Ckrodcndnun 123 cormcls 26, 26, 255, 2SS, lt:ylmulii i,;U from ~eeds 68-9, 68 Dcsfot1uiit1io 127
bungt'i 123 269,269 x Cup,nsocypa, 11 Cytas 69 Ocutzio 127
Ckd11·t1 79. l 23 corm~ 11. 26, 26, 2S3 kyl,uulu ti\·olura 69, 69 cuuings 9-1

313
INDEX
devil.in-a-bush sec NJgrllll
Di<ury,lium 79
Di<ot(Ua 193
Dimulms 1S5. 158. 167. 193.
223
layering 193
l'.>ic,scia 194
CUlllll(!,S 156. 194
D,u,ura HQ, 195
D1d1elostrmmn 267
D1ekso11ia 159, 163
d tCOl)•lcd0 1b 17.17, 310
Dicwmnus 195
I>id,scus 229
D1tfft·11bacl11a 19-+
cuniog!, 194. 194
srguinr J94
Ditrama 25-4, 267
Die,.,, 1Hcr L27
Ditus 195
d igging 32 . .l2
Digital is 195. 223
S('lf--sown seedlings 223
IJigita ria did.,c1ylcr 177
d ill 2<l0. 29 1
Oilknnill 79
Dimo11>l101l1ern 223
dioccious pl:11us 16-17. 16,
JIQ
Oionoea 195
Dionysw 16-l. 167. 194
w.-,ioidrs 167
Dioon 69
J)ioscorra 244
Diospharrn 21 1
Diospyros 7Q
Dip<l ta 127
Dipl<m,s St< 1\ finu,fus
Dip ltmht,ur 195
01pla::um 159
l"olifr, um: planllc1s J 61
D1.k1111lrns t 27
DiscMacrus 24-1
disease.,; 46-7
or rootstoc~ 57
susceptibility 10 11
DISO<.a(CUS 244
di\'ision 11. 22, 22
srt nlso plantlets
alpines 167
.iqrnuics 168-9. 168. 169
bromcli::tds 172- 3 . J 72
bulbous p lan ts 25-1-5.
2,5-1. 255
c.icLi :.md succt11ents 23 1.
234-5,2J4. 2J5
d ump-forming p lams 22.
169. 234. 2J4. 276
containcr-grov,rn plants
150, 150
crowns H S, 149, .306
cycads 69. 69
ferns 162- 3
fibrous~roo1ed plants 148.
149
grasses 175-o, 175, 176
herbs 289. 289
offsets 234, 2J4. 235. 247,
247.254- 5,254, 274.
275. 30 1. 302
o rchids 179--8 1. 179. 180,
18 4
))illlll'- 07, 67
perennials 148-50. I 48.
149. 150
1,seudohulbs 179. I 79.
18 4
rh1zom:uous plants 149.
149. 162. 162. 169.
175-6. 175. 18 1. 184
rootmg runners 150. 150
roses 113. I IJ
shrubs and climbers JOl.
101
single b ud 150, 150. 176
stock 1>l:m1corms 255.
255
314
,10l(m'- 234-5 Enibo,Jarium 79 E11pl,orb111 127. 155. 196. 225, fog 1>ro1>ag:.11ion 14. 44. 4-J
1ubcr, 169. 185. 185. 235. Emilia 225 24 1.246 fol)'.!.Cl·llle•not Sf(' Myosolis
235. 249, 299 cmmcr 11 sd11Ui11gll , 96 i'orsyll1it1 128
vcgcmblcs 294, 299. JO I. Enctplwlartos 69 seed , 151 . 164. 232 cuuings QS, 98
306 Encydit1 LSI J:iuyops 127 ·Northern Gold' I 28
Doduathr.on 195 cndemism 10 f u Stotll(I 225 hmuncll,~ I 2<)
dog':-.-IO()th \'iolet S('f cnd h ·c 298 evergreens: c uttmg,; 5 1. SJ . h,ilie,f,ilftt L29
E,yil110111mn Englis h marigold su 70. 70. 98. 99. 99. 1 10. 110 fou111ain grass I 77
dogwood srt Cm nu~ C,drndultr f:\•o h ulus 197 foxglove src Drgrwlis
doll,.u plam 245 fa1 ki,mlJ111s 126 fxacunt 225 fox1:ul gr:N~ 177
IJombeya 79 E,1$ttt· 195 J Yocl10,da
0
127 foxia il lily 19S. 195
Oo11dic1epipacris 199 en,·1ronmenl 38-45 frngm ur l48, 197
dormancy 10- LI, 19
b reaking 19. 53- 5, 72.
aerial 38-9
elcmc1tb lO tontrol 38 F alpmc: collecting seed "
197
103. 119. 152. 152. 257 growing mcd m 4 1 I I hybrid s 2 l. 310 x mamw .;w 197
chemical 19- 20 Eomao11 <.h1oiu1111Jur 19j 20. 53. 56. 80
/ ·(1~11< runners: roo1ing 197. 197
cmbryo 19 E1xuris 1 10, 1 l I fairy 1,m tcm see Caloclw,ws Frnnl:linfrl ,dcmun<1Jw 8 1
seed eo:11 19 £1,idr,u/,um 181 J-<dlnpw src Polyg<mum f,a.\'inus 18. 19, 53, 54. 80
Doro11icum 195 E111gata 127 fon palm 05 f,usi<1 268
Dorothrmul111s 224 epigcal gcrminat,on 20. 20 Fml{f'-i<• 177 Frrmont()(le11,lm11 19 , 128
Do1yrni11111 see Lotus Et>ilo1>mm 18. 195 formmg 12 pregcrmina1ing 304
double-working 27. 88. 88 m1gusrifol1wn: stcdhead~ Fmtrculmi<l 174 French byering 25. 107, 107
Doug!:,~ fi r srt· Pw:udOISUJZ,lf 19 x F<111hrtk rcr 127 h ·itillt1rfr, (fri 1illary) 258. 268
Douglw.111"''t' Andro-.ace FJJmtedium 148, 195 lier, 130. IJO chipping 268. 268
Dow11il1xia 225 gn111d1Jlorum 'Lila foe' J 95 fm.;w 128 1mperwlis 256
Dwm, 167. 195 E11ir~uris 185 128
CUllmg!> mdet,~tis 257. 268
D1atm:11t1 79 fpi1>l1yfhun 240. 2-16 93. 128, J28
J<ll'Olllf ll S<'Ofit~g 268. 268
cutung:, 79 c,,11a11m1 246 fo\'a bean~ 308. 308 frogbi t st·r ll\'drochmis
D,aa,aplwlum 225 eut1ings 238, 2J8 reathcr gra~~ !>rt St1pt1 frui1·
Diarula 18 1 pollinating by hand 233, Fdic.it1 197. 225 multip le trees 12. 57. 57
D1 11t1} S 127
1
2JJ fennel 289, 290. 29 1 1ypc, 18. SJ
dropj,mg ll l . J J J epiphytes: Florence 302 h 1d 1~i(I 16. 128-CJ
D,osm1tlum1um 2·H bromcli:.lds 172-4 rem J):tlm 69 cuwngc:. 1ol . r 29
O,os,·w l 95 orchids 178. 18 1. 183 rems 159-63 ·G,mlen New._· t28
o,ymulrcr l 27 su cculen1s 231. 238. 2.4 I auricles 163. 163
D1yt1s l95
Dryoptc,,s 159
tp1prem111m1 l 26
Fpis<it1 195
bulbils 161 . 161
division 162 G
d u mb caoc 194. 194 equipment 28-3 I la)'ering 163 Gagrll 268
Dutch elm d isease 11 Eragmst1~ 177. 225 life cycle 159. 159 Gaillmclia 197. 224
Dyckia 172. I H Er-tmth,s 25-l. 267 offsc,s 163 'Kobold ' 197
Oypsis 65. 67 hvtmalis 267 plantle1s 161. 161 G<llmuJrns 269
Ettlisia 2·H spores 159 di"iding 269, 269
E Er<mur-us 195
rcplan1ing 19.5
ga1hcring l 59-60
sowing 160. 160
twin-scaling 269
Gal<<< 197
c:.rth s t:.i r see Crypumtf1us iobustu~ J95 ,10l011s 162-3 Galcga 197
l;cbnllmm dmrriwn 18 EdamJius 177 vcgct~tive propa.g.ttion Calrob<lolon su Le1millm
Ear(morn1·1111s 127 Erirn ll0. 111 1~0-3 G<1lium 18. 197
Ec-hrvc,.i<1 234. 236-7. 246 cuuings 110. l 10 frrrn ric1 269 galls 71
'Frosty' 2Ji Erirncru.s 249 rcr111iza11on 17. Ii C.allot1ia 269
rost:u c cullinis 2J7 Etigef<m 195 rcrt11izer.!> 33 g~rdener's garters J 75
Echlri"u" 195 l:rinus 195 Fcstuccr (festuc) 175, 177 Cmtkuur 129
Echft10(atws: seeds 232 ErioboO)•a 79 firns 80. 105. 129 augus111 'Vcnchii' J29
Echhu:>arcus 246 l;rodi111n 195 omeriama: cuttings 50 garhc 292. 293
rc1che11bad1i1 246 m m lt'SCQ\-li 18 rlas1ica: plammg 293
srrnmintus 246 Ern«r s(lth'l l (arugula) 309. air layering 6-J, 105 Gmn ·,1 16 . 129
Echi,10Jossul0<.actu.s 250 J09 'Doescheri' 80 Gmlcmr 247
Echit1ops l 94 Er_p1giu1t1 196 lear-bud cutting 80 (tll IIIClttl \ ':lr. \'(',.nl(()S(I 24 j
g:u hering seeds 19-4 ngm ifolium 196 fj~ see Ficus c 1<mtl1e1i 23.l
l;cl1111opsis 235. 239. 24 6. 247 g1ga111cum 147, 196 . J96 fil bert scr Co,ytus divid ing off.-,e1s 234. 247.
ccdocltlom 246 root cu uings 196. 196 Filipcmluta 197 24 7
cl1amnecereus 240. 246 Eiysimwn 196. 224 fir sec Abirs X Gcmlt1ruy,1s1·~· Gauhhnla
cum ngs 238. 2J8 'Bredon' J96 fircthorn su Pyracmulw Gauh11rrfcr 129
l111('a 240 cuniogs J96 Fmmana 8 1 dividing IO I, JOI
P"t hm1oi 238 li11ifolium 196 fi,html p~lm scr Coryow S,wllori IOI
a.,1, roo1s1oc;k 239. 239. Ery1brat(1 223 .. Fi1tomt1 196 G(lll l'(I 197
240. 24$ Erylliro11im11 257. 267 name nc11lc ~ce Solerioslemon Gtitanio 197
Sl'opulicolus 239. 245 d ividing 267,267 rlamc \'IOicl 195 cu uings 155
se«ls 232 transplaniing 267 fi:rnncl b ush Sff rigrns \far. uniflora 197
Echh1os1x1r1hun 129 csa,Uo,1ia 127 f u·m<mtodn ulmn Geijct(r ~)l
Edtium 22S cunings 99. 127 fta1 g rafting 219---10. 2J9. genetic e ngineering 15. 15
w1ldprtt11 JO ·Peach Blossom· 127 240, 245 Geni~f(I 129
Edgtwortl1ia 127 Es<hscJ1ol,z,a 224 Florence fconcl 301 Gi·ntimw I5 I.· u,7, l 98
Eclwarclsia micmpliyllcJ 90 g.11heri11g seeds 224 Oorisi's foa m 3S. 35 (IWUlis 198
egg1>lan1 306, .306 ctiofotion la)'ering 57. 57 noss nowcr 220 d i\'id ing 148, 198. 198
Eg)'l>tians 12 , 12 fif((dyptus 55. 80 nowcring currant src R1I.N·S .;ino--ornota 198
Eic"110111iti 168 cxlrnc1ing seeds 80 Oowering maple Sri: Abutr/011 Grnmium 16-1, I QS
EICleag,ius 126 JHmciflom 80 nowcring quince 122 d1vid mg 149
cuuings 98, 126 sowing rn roo1-1r.iincrs 80 nowering rush srt Buumms ripening .;eedhead'- J 98
X tbbhigci 126 Eudwn 'I 267 nowcring tobacco 228 geranium sec Pclmio11ium
Efotocarp1is 79 Euco1111s 268 nowcrs: Gabrra 198
elder 51. H O bicolor 268 rertilization 17. 17 germnmuon 20, 20
elephant's ears 190-1 f ucommw 81 pollination 16- 17, 16. 233 Gcsncri:1ceac (gesncriads) 1 1.
ElewJ1crocoaus 79. 127 Eucrypllic, 81 structure 16 . 16 165
elm 11 , 52.9 1 famOtmn 186 Foer1iculum: Grnm 198
tlodea sre Urgarosipho,1 Euonymus 127 , ulg,1rt (rcnncl) 289. 290. Gr,·uuu, 129
tlsholtzio 127 g.a1hcring seeds 127 29 1 gherkin,; 300
Elymus 26. 177 £111x 1to,.i11m 127. 197 var. ,lulu 302. J02 giant fe rn ~ff' 1\ 11gioptrris

gi:tnl redwood Sl'l'
Se,11,oi<1drttdro11
ginnl watcrlil)' 168
Gil1<1 225
G1/lc'nicr 198
g1llyOowcr 128, 228
Gmk~o 17, 53. 80
Clml1ulu~ 15-1. 2<>9
cormcl., 269, 269
division of conn !> 255.
255
gla.">!)hou~~: V1clon.111 I 'l. lJ
Glnurmm 198. 22S
Gled,onw I 98-9
Glrd,t-:ia 19. 80
preparing ~eds 80
Globlx, 199
globe a1 tichokes 301. JOJ
offscis JOI
globe 1his,le 194, 19-1
Globulmill 199
Clorio~1 suprdM 269
'Rothschildiana' 269
glory bower su Clrrockmlnun
123
glory of ,he snow 263, 26J
glory 1xa ~r Cli,u11l111s L24
Gfo.\init1: cuuings 277,277
Gfyarit1 177
Glvci11e 111,v. 30Q
<,fycynfo~d 199
goal grass 11
golden cham sc.·r I a/mnnun
golden ch:un orchid 181
golden duh ~a Onmtmm
G(}m11l11.-m1 225
good kmg I lcnl)' 298
Goody-,,a 185
gooseberries 139
cunings JJ9
G0tdo,1m 81
grnhing 26-7, 27. 49. S<>-o3.
73, 7J. 108-9. I l }-15,
199, 199, 239-24 1
see <1fso budding
aficrcare 44. 59. 109
apic~l·wedjtc (sJ>lit) 27.
58.82, 108-9. 108,
241. 2-11
approach 12, 27. JOJ
bindmg with r:tffi:1 24J
ca'mbmm 27. 58. 108,
239, 310
clef, 12/
creating a siandard 89,
IJO. 250
dc1achcd scion 12. 27
double. working 27. 88,
88
eqmpmcnt for 29. 29
na, 239-40,2J9,240,245
hiSIOf) L2
h ot•pipc callus ing 76.
109, 109
micrografling 15
multiple scion 57. 57
n:uural J J
pro1cc11ng tmion ·H--5
rind 62. 63, 63
roo1 (\Vi'iUnn) 1-15
roo1>1ocks 56. 57. 239
!-tooling 50--7. S6
1rcnch laycnng 57,
,addle 85. 8$
57
seedling 124,243,243
,idc 27, 240-1, 2-10, 250.
250
side.wedge 85
s1>liccd side 58, 58
s1>liced s1clc•vtnccr 27.
5S-9. 73. 73. 109
s1oring scions 108
whip 58. I09
whip-:.r nd •wngue 59. 59
granadilla 136. 136
grape Sl"t Vi1is
grape hyacimh 274,274
gm1x-s: layering 12
Grn1nophylfum 129
gmsscs. ornamental 175-7
,1-Z 177
gathe ring seeds 176. J 76
dividing 175-6, J 75. 176
from seeds 176-7, 177
from sing le buds 176
,owmg lawns 170-7. 177
gray mold 47, 95
gmy·foh,1ged pl:m1s: cumngs
96
Gred,., 12
green be,rn~ 304
grtenhou,;es 42--4
heating 42
hum1d1t)' 42
1osula11on 43
la)'OUI 4J
regulating atinosphc.rc
-12-3
shading 42
staging ·f3-4. 43
l)'pcS 42. 42
,,~uering S)'Stems 44
greenwood cunings 23. 52.
52. 100. IOI . 155. 166. 166
Cre,,illca 80. 129
Grisdmia 129
ground cherry 309
grow fam J)S -12
growmg media 33-35. -1 1
gom sre h1wlyp111s
Gum1e,·a I Q8
mmurnw J 98
Guznumw 173. 17-i
Gynuwrc,lydmn 235. 2·f7
rmhcmo,•1d111 'Rtd Cap'
247
Gyrm10<mpium 162
G)•rt1n0<lmlu.s 81
gymnosperms 16. 17. 3 10
Gyrmrn l 29
Gypsopf1ift1 167. 199. 2 19.
224
gr.ifiing 199. 199
rcprn,; 166
H he rbs (culirmry) 28 1, 287-91
f-ltmsrw 199
Habouu ui 178
Ht1bt,lra 165, 199
habitats 10
HaJ,ra,uhus 269
Hacquclia I 99
Hatnw111Jws 270
coccmtus 270
hair grass 177
Hakeo 81
J Jakoned1loo nwcra 177
Halcsw 81
I lalitn111111 129
I lalimode11dro11 l 29
11,muondis 18. 85, 130
chip budding IJO
I l;nnburg p.usley 309
handkerchief 1rcc sec D(fvid1a
hard fern srr 81ech11um
J fn rdfnbogm 13 1
hardening off 45. -IS. 218,
229,286
hardwood c uuings J2. 50-1.
50, $I, 86. 98-9, 98. 99.
112, JJ2
'J):ICC·:;..Wtng 99, 99
h,1re·s 1:111 225
h.irieot bean.s 304
harlequin Oower 277
Hcan1src, 2-+0
harl's tongue fern set
Ai:1,knlum sa,lopcrulnum
Hawo rrhic1 237. 247
cymbiformis 234
dividing 234. 2J4
haw1hom 54. 56, 6l. 78
ha:clnm St"t- Corylus
INDEX
hc;m vine see Ceroprgia hormone roo1ing compound incense cedar 76
liriea,.is subs1>, woodii 30, 155 Indian bean tree 77
heaths and heathers 110-1 L hornbeam see Carpi,ms Indian mallow set Abutilon
heating· bewlus Indian rubber plant su Ficu,;
bouom heat 41. 41 horse ches1mn set Aesrnlus elastica
in greenhouse -f? horseradish 289. 29 1 Indian spinach 309
llebr 13-0 cunings 288. 288 inen growing media 35
cuuings 24. 130 Hosra HS, 153. 20 1 iniercropping 285, 285
HedUi(f 172. 174 dividing 22. 22. ISO. ISO, intcmodal cuttings 22. 94.
llfdtrn 130 20 1.201 94.97.97
cuuings 22. 97 ·1lalcyon· 201 intersowing 285. 285
sclf-larcrmg 107, 107 IOppm~ 20 I , 20 J Jnuln 201
s1and-ard: crcatmg JJO ho, bed I). IJ, -I I Jo1101'siditm1 225
top-workmg JJO ho l·l)ipe c:illusmg 76. 109. ,,,rmon 271
hedgehog cac:1u<; 246. 246 J09 umflonun '\\/1,lcy Rlue'
Hrdyd1ium 199 f-lotronici 171 271
Hrdysa,um 199 hOl·wa1c r planl srr Ad11mrnt~ J1)(JmOtCI 201
heel cu11rngs 2.1. 5 1, 96, 96. ho useleck su Srm,,e,.,·,"um bau1ta,; 302, 302
287.287 Houttu)'nfrl 168. 201 Ir,omol'si;; 22~
J lrlcnmm 200 Ho,tt1 131 Iui,;111t 201
'Sonncnwunder" 200 HO\rma 81 /11< 21,151,257
J frl1w1rh1:mwn 131 HOWl'.tl 65 bulbous 271
Htlw11rhus 200. 224 Hoya 23. 13 1, H7 bullf)'tmtt 202
CIIIJIIIUS 22-l r.mnosn 2-17 flbrous.roo1ed 202
'Capenoch Star' 200 Humec1 220 l1isuio. bulbs 27'
dividing 148 humidity: Juno grou1> 27 1
cx1rac1ing seeds 224 in greenhouse 42 latv1gcm1 168
1uberosus (Jcrus~,lcm main1aining 38• .38 nwgnifirn 27 J
anichokc) 28 1,302 Humuh,s (hops) l07. 131 offsets 255
clwiclmg J02 hy,1cimh beans 302. J02 reticu/(fUI 271
Jlrlidu-ysum l 3 1. 200 I lyt1ci11rhdla 27 1 Rcticuforn group 27 1
Hrhconw 201 ll_wm1uhoiclrs 270 rhizomalou s 26. J49. 152.
1ffli<too-id1on I i7 11y,1c111th11s ( h)'acinth) 270-l 202
I lrltopl11la 225 chipJ>mg 270. 270 Siberian 202
Hdiopsis 201 sc,tling 258 tall bearded 148
Hdiorropium IO l. 131 !'>COOping 25,271 wh1qgnufowi1 271
hellebore s~:c· I ldldw, us ~coring 25. 2S. 271 Xiphiurn group 271
hellcborinc su f l'ipacris hybrithz:u1on 2 1, 2 J. 153, ISt111S 225
ttdfcborus 22, 148, 149, 200 233. 257 ISmt"ne 271
cffgutifolius 200 camellia 120 ltM 133
gathering steels 200 roses 11 6-17.1/6, JJ7 ivy sec Htclera
o,ienralis 200. 200 sweet peas 226. 226 lxia 27 I
sc1f-sown 200 w.1tcr g:i.rdcn p lan1s 171 tnolirion 272
Heb:h1e 209 hybrids: natur.11 10 f\'Ora 133
fltmfrocallis 200 J lydmngtt.1 131
dividing 148. 150
hcnb.-inc 225
cmomnla '-Ubsp. J>rtiolc,ris
JJ I ] _ __
flqxllicu 151 , 164. 200 mac1opl1yllC1: c u11ings JOO Jc,carcmcfo 81
f-ltr btl'lic, 2 71
scrpcnlinc layering 1JI
Hydroclwris 168
j.1c k·m-1hc-pulp11 SN'
Arisacmcr 261
1\-Z 190-1 J 7J
t11 0r':(US·J'CU1Cl t J.icobc.an hly 277
cutting.,; 287-8. 287. 288 winter budi. (lurioni.) 26. Jan<.ata Um1k,m1) 165. 203
dividing 289. 289 171. 171 Ja1>anesc cecfar 78
hybridizing 290 hydrocuhure 35 Japanese quince l 22
layering 289-90, 290 hygiene 30, JO Japanese laurel set J\tfcuJ,a l 18
from seeds 290--1 Hylo(trrus 239, 240 Ja1xrnesc sago palm Sf'f Cy<a.<
suckers 289 Hylotrlrpl1iwn stt Se,lum ,c...,,olura
Hermodac1ylus Htl1trnsus 27 l Hymr.nmu,,r,a 85 j~lponica 122
heron's bill su Emdhon Hymt,1owllis 27 l jasmine l 32, 132
Hes1,eris 225 Hymtnospornm /lci\·tun 81 rock su Andmsacc
Heud1era J49. 151,201 J-lyoscyamus 225 )<1smi11wn 132
dividing 149. 201 J-lype.-icum 132 cmgulart JJ2
x lleud1erellc1 20 I c unings 97 Jairo11ha: seeds 232
llibb,rtia 131 llyl'oa,ly1mm1 133 )ejfcrsoriia 203
Hibiscus IOI, 131. 225 ll)'J'O<SlfS 20 I jelly palm 65
syrillcus 'Dian a' JJJ h)'pogc~,1 germination 20. 20 Jerusalem anichokes 281.
I lhnalayarnlamus 177 ll)'J'OXiS 27 1 302
llimalayan popJ>)' set· m1gust1/olic, 27 J chvichng l\lbcrs J02
1\leconopsi~ hyssop sec Hyssopus Jewel orchid 185
I fippeastrnm 258. 270 ffyssopu:- 133 JIC'a ln:) 3()9
chippmg2S9 o//irmr,fis 288. 291 Jubara 65
sccdhcad 270 Jugfrms 53. 57, 8 1
I lippoph(lt 131
histo ry or propagation 12-- 13 I
,,,,,;, 201,225
11\IIS 81
Jttnebtrry Sft" Amrlcuulue,.
Noherit1 8 1. 131 J11111pr1·us (juniper) 70. 72.
lloll.N'Jt'ilia: tutting~ 97 (IIIUll'a 22$ 82,29 1
llokus 177 ice pl:int 224 tonfcrw 70
holly su Hex 1ccplan1 (yege1able) 30.f. 304 returw1 82
hollr Ctrn set Polyst1d111m ffc< 16, 19, 5 1. 81
hollyhocks su Akta
Holod1SCUS 131
x ahcrdru,u,s 'Balea.rica.'
81 K
honest)' sec Lu11aria cunings SJ Kalc111d1oe 26. 248
hone)•locust see Gle,li1si" 1/l(lttltl(I 209 ad\'emitio us buds 22. 248
honeysuckle su J..oriiara lmp,uiens 154. 201. 225 bt-ltarensis 248
hook sedge 212 scedheads 225 blossfdrliaua 248
hop hornbeam 84. 84 lmpenua l 77 cu11ings 236-7. 248
J lonleum 225 lnca,-..•illea 164,201 ,l,1igrtmonlia11a 23 I, 248
315
INDEX

kales 297 ser1>e1nine 107. 107, JJl Urhodo, ci 133 1\fanglif1fo 85 M1uhdla 135
ornamental sec Brassica simple 64, 64. 106, J06. Lirhops 248 manzanim set Arbucu,;; mi:una green,;; 309
olrracrll 289-90.290 living stones 248 maple sre Ace, mock omngc su Pl1ilmMplms
Kalmitl 132 1i1> 11.24.140 U\'ingstonc daisy 224 Mma11w 202 i\lolmill 177
Kalop,.rn,t\ 83 trench (ctiola1ion) 57. 57 Lh•isto11a 65 1\forat1fo I 59. 163 Molucatla 229
kcikis l8Z. 183 wounding s1cm 25. 106. lloydia 254. 272 marigold 22Q toe,•is 215
Kem1rdu, 133 106 LJbdi<l 155. 202, 227 English St't' C<d1mdula ,\fo,uult'nium 248
Kcrric1 101. 133 larcrs l l patching seedlings 202 pot see Cctkiulufo i\lmwttla 203, 290
k1dne)' be-an-. .30-1 U1yit1 227 J ob1via scr Fclii11011sis mariposa ser Cc1lorl1orius money pl.mt <;ff I unwlo 227
kmg rcrn ,;;a 1\11gwp1rri<; lc.,r cuumg::.- 23. 2J. t57. 1s1. J olmforw 227 m:1qor.un 290. 2QI monkey Oowcr '-fC Mimulm
K111·ngr$'10ma 203 167. IQO, 190. 208,208. loct.1'l \t'f Rolnnid 8() M<1mil,i11111 203 monkey pu::::lc tree 70. 76
kl\\'I fruit )'t'r Aclmi<lw 118 210. 210. 273,273, 2i7, l.otlo1cc<1 65. 66 m.1rsh mangold 1(,8 11101lOC01) lcdon, 17. 17,310
1

Kl1•11ut1 235, 2i 8 279 l.()nU1t111 83 m:u..,h orchid 185, 185 monOC(u)u, pl.mt-. 16, J6.
mli(ulow 25 1 ,qua re tear J 90 J.,111w~ 227 i\ ltul) 11frr 229 l 10
knapwccd su C,•numira ..,uc<:ulcni-. 236--7, 2.37, London plane 86 Mchdrwdh,1 183 Mo11,tcrn I H-'>
K,umtw 203 248.251 IA11i(fft1 134 ,\ lourutcw I 59, 162 cuumg, JJ-J. 135
K11igJu1a 83 leaf-bud cu11mg, 21, 2.3. 79, cu11111g., 9-1, 95, 97. 9i Marthu>la 228 drhnoS.tl '\'nnega1a· 1.35
K11111hofit1 21. 203 80. 97. 97 loofoh 16 'Ci1:rn1 Exccb1or' 228 .\l<mrw pt,j,Jlww 309
'Ak:1zar' 20.3 le<·k, 281. 286. 293 J..opliOfi·reu, 248 M<tlu(m1a 248 MowM 27i
Koduuu, w 81 1r:insplan11ng ,cedl111gs IAplwmyrtu'i 83 M«.\1Umw 18) .\fo11~1<1 l67, 201
kohlrabi 297 293 J..011l1thtrmon 83 Ma::u~ 201 ,\.fo111', 84
KolJu,,ir::la ,mwbilis 132 l..cgm1sw 227 lords aod tl<hts Sl'c' A111111 mc;.1dow gras~ 177 ,1ig1t1 84
kurrajong 76 Lc-mbogfossum 181 J.,1)UIS 203 me:ido,\' rue 2 10,210 moss: sowing seed on 165.
lemon 78. 78 m1<1go11ofobus 309 meadow s.1,Hron su 165.208.208
L lemon balm 287. 289. 29l
cunings 287
101Us (wa1er plam) set
Ndumbo
Cold11c1m1 264
Muonopsis 151. 164. 203
mOlh ol\"hid see Plwlaeno11sis
mound la)Cring 24. 24. 2JJ.
Lt.1b1"b purpureus 302. J02 lemon "crbena 2Q I lo,,.gc 289. 291 bt·loni(ijolia 20J 290. l'IO
Laburnum 50-l. 61, 82 Lemen rose 200. 200 love grass su Erngrosus ga1hering S4.'eds .ZOJ mounding srr mound
nlpinum 82 lf'0/110,.IOdhmt 203 love-in-~1-mist stte Nigella "1edi11Hla 135 lc1ycring
ap1~l-wcdge grnhing 82 U-t,idium 20. 303. 303 love,Jies-blceding 220 Mcfolrurn 85 mountain ash srr 5mbi,s
seedpods 53. 53 Lr1mlozomia 69 l 11tl1sitl l85. 185 .\rehtmiJ111s 135 mountain laurel srt· K,1f111w
I.Icecaps St"t" H)'dnrngra ltpasmium Sl"l" RJ1ipS<1fis d1s<c>lo1 185 Mdiw (mclick) 177 132
l...,t1(hft1(1fi(I 272 tt"1>1osprrmum l 33 Luff(I t1cuumgula 16 ,\ felicyws 85 mount;.1in spinach 295
crloulcs .l72 Lts11edrza 133 L1111mfo 203. 227 .\tel10snw 85 mugwon ,;;ff Aitt·m1;;io
bulb,I< 272. 272 lcuuecs 20. 283. 284. 303 g.11hcring seeds 227 .\frJ1SSll 203 mulbcrr)' 84. 8-4
Lt.,ctuca (lettuce) 20. 282. di54.'asc resis tance 282 lupine st·c l1111inus o//kimrhs Clemon b~1lm) mullein ;;t·c \'t:',-b(l~(lun
28J. 284.303 imcrcropping 285 1-111,mus 135. l5 l. l53. 202. 287. 28<1.291 multiple tree-. 11. 57, 57
m1ercropping 285 LeuCtukndt~:m 83 227 Cllltings 287 Mung be.in-. 308
lady fern ~ec Athyrium r eucmuhrnnun 203, 227 I u~uln 203 Mf/ocnctus :HS Mustt 20-1
l:idy palm 65. 67. 6i f .fllCOCOlyiu· 27 2 fJ'Cl1Stt' 18} melon!'> 300 bt1')<10 20-1
l:ulyS 111:111tlc 187. 187 Leucognu·s 203 l.~·duus 202, 227 Mrnllur ( 111ml) 201,287, 289. s ut ke~ 20-1
l:1dy\ ~lipper <>rcl1ul .\Ct Lrn((>JIUII 272 Lyropn$1t'On (tom:110) 20. 290,29 1 Mu,rm, 27i
Cyf'nptclium Vj'nuun \'.Ir. m,"11tn 272 282.303,JOJ lll{IUlrt(Cl 168. I 7 I 11cgl1·,Jum 27-l
u ,dia 151 Lcucoll1oe l 3} gmf11ng 301. JOJ cu11iog-,, 288. 288 Mu~,,11,mw 274
x Lad10<mrlcw, 180. 181 l.rv1,11r11m ,,jfir,,wlc (lovage) Ill grO\\ b,'lg!t 286 Menthatcac 11 musiard 297
Ltrgams.,,,,1011 168, 171 289. 29 1 l\'(OtlS 274 Mou::dia 229 mus1~1rd greens 309
Laguncs <)\'tlt U.S 225 l.ewisia 164, 202 wcllma27-I ,\frnvmu,1c-s 11ifolww 168 mycorrhi:ae 33. 55
L(lgtnwfo 225 lcycrsuna l33 ½)'godiutt1 163 Mrntirsii 135 Myosmidium 205
L"gt,sr1,,emia 83 Leyland cn>rcss 79 lJOtlUI 135 Mc,cndall 274 Myorous 167, 171.205. 228
Lag1wcirw 83 lrymus src El_w11us Lysid1iio11 l-l9. 168 meris1cm cuhurc 14. l 78, Myria1 135
lamb's lcuuce 309 U<Uns 203 Lysinwd1i(I 155. 203 I 78 1\Jyrio1,J1yllum 168
Lami,mnmt ste Lm11ium Libenit1 203 Lyt11rum 203 ,\frsl"111b,ym11J1rnuon 234 Mvni111s odorC1t<1 2Q1
lamium I I, 203 Libocr,Jms 83 c,ysudfinum 304, JO'f Myrtilloawus 2-lO
I ampn mtJrns 2-18
land cress 309
l.igulmi" 203
I ;gustnm1 133 M seeds 232, 232
Mrsp,lus 85
mynlc 291
i\ lynus 135
Lcmw,w 133 cuttings UJ Maac.kia 83 Mt'Wstquow 8-1 co1mmmi,;; (myrtle) 291
J apagt.'ria 1-oset1 132 owdifa,Jium IJJ 1\i<lcadt1mi(I 83 <.·uuings 50- 1. SJ. 8·1
J <1ri\° (larch) 82
gmfting 73
lilac sec Sym1g,,
I ihum 25-f. 256. 257. 258.
Mt1cleay(I 203
M,1du1·,1 82
Mc11osidt·ros 8-f. l35
Mcxic,m h:11 1>lan1 ,,.,. N
larkspur stc Co11soliclc, 272-3 Mano:;:m11i<1 69 Kcrlcmdu,.- dt1igrcmomimU1 Nm1'Ji11c, 135
katnn palm 65 bulb 2S moorc, 68 mice.: d~nnage by -16 Nmo,sui. 257. 258. 27i
l.t11t1111a 65 bulbib 273. 273 Me1~11olw 53, 83, 93. 134 M1chtlw 85 bulb, 25. 25
Lntl1v, us 203, 226-7 d<1Uw.nso111i 272 chip-budding 60, 6 1 M,aoglos:.a ~u A,.,e, dividing 0Hsc1:, 2'H, 254
Chipping seeds 226 division or bulble1s 26, cuuings 51. 51. 83. 83, 94 mitrogr:ifting 15 lllf'ICOfo 27-1
hybridizing 227 272-3.272 ex1rac1ing seeds 83 micropro1>agauon H -15, 15 twin.scaling 259,274
O(lornrus 226 lm1giflonu11 272,273.273 ' Ricki' IJ4 nugnoncnc 228 nas1unium s1·c Tmpaeolu111
sowing 226 scaling 258. 258 ·spcc1n11n' 83 mile.a-minute plant S4'C 229
Ltmrdia83 lily see Lilium 1\fr1l101tUI 23. l 34 Polygm111m na1urc: rcproduc1ion in
J..min,s 83 lily-of-1hc-valley sec gathering seeds J02 Mllium 177 10- 11
11obilis (bay) 289. 290. Co11\l(iflciricr cuuings 96. I 34 M1Jfo 275 Nm11ilocaly.\ 205
29 1 Lim;.1 beans 304 joponirn 134 Millonitr 183 Nrcuuvsco1d111n 275
Lm·<111dula Q6, 132-3. 2<10 J ll>Ul<UUht"S 227 maidenhair rcrn set Adimuum M1liot1iOf'SiS l83 needle grass Sft" ~tip<1
ct1t1ing back I J2-J Li111011i11m 203 maidenhair tree sec Ginkgo Mimosa 135 Nrillitr 135
1..nvmrra 133, 227 Lmanthus 227 Malcolmia 227 mimosa src Albi::i" 75 Ndumbo I 68. 170
seeds 22i 1maria 203. 227 Mt1lepl1om 248 Mmiulus 135. 203 Nrmcsia 205. 229
la\'Cndcr SCf J.cn(lndu/(1 linden ,;;ff Tilid mallcl cutting-. 119 mmmtwcus 135 1\1t·mopl1il<1 229
lawns: :;Owing 176-7, 177 l uukrn 83 111:illo w sec Un•(Urm i\Jm(I sec tpomofll Nrodypsi~ sec Dypsis
l:1ycnng 12• .H-5, 25, 04. u,uU1eimfrn 227 1\fofopr 227 mint 287. 289. 290. 29 1 neon cactu~ St'C'
10>-7, 111 .111. 158.16}. 1i1111111 20:3. 227 Mo/us 18. 53. Ol. 84 cuuings 288. 288 Gy11111o«dyc111111
193. 28<1-Q0.290 Uquidmnlx,r 82 1ohn nownic' 84 Misrnn!Jms 175. 177 Ncoponeria 2-f8
air 12. 25. 25. 64. 64, greenwood cuuings .52 rootsiocks 56. 57. 84 Mis!.> \\'illmo11's Ghost src Nrorrgdi(I 172. 173. 174
105. 105. 19~ r.1riode11dn1111 82 Mcrfw, 203. 227 f·ry11g111111 gigcmtfmn rnroluurc 172
dropping 11 1. J f I tulipifrm 82 MnmmillC1ric1 235. 248 mb1 pro1xiga1ing um1 05. 65 Ncpr,ul1n 205
French 25, 107. 107 U1iopt 203 cu1t111gs 238 m1s1 propag:n1on 1-1. f .f. 4-1. Nrpcw 205
mound 2i, 213. 290. 290 Usicmthu.s 225 ,\fmultvill(I 135 H Nqduolqm 159, 162-3
rooimg runners 197. 197 Uul1i 83 Mtmctli/1 1.35 1111slic1oc 1-13, I 'fJ Nr1inr 25-1. 258. 261. 274-5
self- 24. 24. 107. 107 litl1o<<1rpus 83 ,\fm1g1/rm 85 misllclOc c:acLUs see Rl1ip5'rlis d1vid111g 27i. 275

316
 INDEX

Nc,ium 135. 24 l b•ckbulbs 178. 179-80. pap~lra 77 PerU\'1an lily set· AlstrQrmt, ut 86
P((l(CIIIII$
llCfV(' 1>t1111 see FiUOIIUI 196 179 Papl1iope,Wum 178, 181 . ,,.,.,. 46-7, 57 secdhe~ul 86
New zc~lland dais) su bulbils 184. 185 183 protec1ion against +5, -15 P((lrycmya Strolnlt1cet1 86
Ccl111isi,1 commercial propagation Pawhebc 137 PcHrcr 137 Pr(l1yccnum 159
Ne\\' Zealand spinach 308 178. 178 Parnq11ilegitl 205 Pr1roseli11um cnspum Plmyd"dus 9 l
N1rmulra ph)'StlfCHlrs 229 epiphy1ic 178 Pornseria,uhrs sre Ailcmclrns (1>arslc) l 282, 290. 29 l Plaiycodo,1 g,,wclifloru.s 207
Nir<Ui<OIR 228 A-Z 181 . 183 parlor maple srr Abu1ilo11 \far. wbe1osw11 309 Plarys,emon c,difornicus 229
Nidufonum 174 keikis 182. 183 Panwssia 205 Pl'Hmia 206 Plecrrm1rJ1us 207
Nir,.embt-rgia 205 lilhoph)1tic l 78 Par0t.lfa 249 ·Red Carp,t' 206 Plefobfastu.s 177
.'iigtllcr 228 mcristem culture 178. HS 111ag11ifica 249 Plwalia 229 Plri<mc 185
g.ithcring seeds 228 monopodial 182-3 ParTolitt pasirn 85 PJ1,dmmopsis 182, 183 b ulbils 184, 185
,Jam<1S<t'lld 9. 2H. 228 pollination 17 Parroiiopsis l37 kcikis 182. 183 dividing 184-5. 184
nobk nr 72 pscudobulbs 22. 26. parsley 282. 290. 29 L pfantk1s 182-3. J82 formosa11,1 J8-#
nodal cuttmgs 2J. <H, 9-1. Q7. 178-81 . 184-5. 184 Hamburg 309 Pl1tdoris 175. 177 Pkios111los 250
97 rhizomatous: di\'iding 18-1 parsnips see P,mi,wrn sauva l'lwrbiris su J110m04't1 plum see Pnmits 87
nod.ii 11p cuuingc; 110 from seed::. 178 J'arthfnocissus l36 l'lwseolus (beans) 282. 304 Plumbago 137
.\1olcmcr 219 .,,cm nmings 185. 185 11·icus11idm,1'Lowii' IJ6 PlifgOJ)lfriS 162 J'f1rn1er'ill 86
Noluw 248 ,1c-m :,.CCII Oll<i 182, l8J pa.;quc flowe r sec Pufsmilfo PJ1dlode1ufron 85 plunge beds 257. 257
Nm11,>tlim 1.\ 2'>b, 275 "}'lllJ)()(k1I 26, 178-8 l P(lssiflm" l )(> P"1lmlrl11h11s 136 J>oa 177
Notlwft1~u:; 8-+ tcr-rc-.lrml 178. 184-1> 'Amethyst' l J6 coro11<irms ·Aurcus· IJ6 J>odorn11ms 86
.\'t>tholu rota 27'> A-Z 185 pas-;mnOowcr 1 \6. I36 cuttings 9'1. 100. 10 1. IOI J>odophyllum 1-18. 207
.\1otlio~u,rdum 275 wht:rou, 185. J85 f'tl:illllll((I Stlfl\'CI (JXlrslllJ)S) X Pl1ifog_fri<1 137 Polrmo11imn 207
Noto(CICIU.) 2-t9 01d1i~ 185 282. 284. 304 P1iilo,le~1dro11 130-7 Jloli,wrhc-s ,ulx·ms,1 276
Notoni<l ,1·,· Sr11nw oreg,mn 287. 289. 29 1 chsc~.;c rcs1st:tnc;c 282 :ur layermg l05. JJi pollinalion 16-17
NH/dlllr l<">S. 171 Oregon gr:ipc holly sec nucr~owmg 28.5 types of cuu ing 136 agcn1s f6, 17
nurwr-y bcch n. 9(), 99. 99. Malwmtt I H Paulownw 85 Pl1fo1111s 137. 207 by h'111CI 233. 2JJ
219.219 Ouoca~u;; 148 w nu-ntosa 'I 1!::u:111:1' -19 Pl,lox ll. 46. 158. 206. 228 l'olygale1 137
covered 99 o,1gm111111: pawpaw sec Asimitw 119 cuuings 155 Polygo11m11m 15 l. 207
outdoor -10, 40 29 1
t!Ulj(}f(IIUI pc.1d1 ~re Pnm11.. 87 pm11cult1t<1 'Gmf Lepp,clin' 1>olygomo11 98. 138
pro1cc1mg 4'> ,•11/ga,t (oregano) 287. peacock flower !>l!C' Mcwen; 206 b<llclsd1urmkum JJ8
ou1tien1s 33 289. 29 1 Tig, 1d1a PltOi"IIIX 16. 05. 07 Polypot/111111 159
1Htts (and nullikc fruih) 18. o, ni1J1oga/11111 275 peaout 29 .. , 294 Plwn11ium 22, 207 Poly1,ogo11 229
18. 53. 53. 102 Oumtmm 168, 170 peanut cactu~ !>ff EtJww11s1s Pl101i11w l 37 Polysr1d mm 159. 162
Nymplwect LoS. J69, I 70 o,oyt1 248 tlumwtc.rrl"U> phOIO~)'rllheM:-. }8. }10 Po11drus 57. 78. 139
from seed:> 170. J70 o,t110pJ1yu1111 174 pear Sl'c Py,us Pl11,1gn111u·cl11un 181 . 183 Pcm1t,frrw l 68
dividing 1(,8, 169 osagc 01-ange 82 peas see Pisum Pl11e1gmi1es 177 1>0or man'~ ordt1d 229. 229
plantlc1.s 169. 169 Osm,1111 lrns 135 p,a1 34 PJ1ygdms 137 1>0plar su P<>puh,s
tropic,I 169 0Slll(lf011i(I 135 compressed b locks 3-+-5. PJ1yJl1r1s see 1\spkt11um 1>0plar. yellow 82, 82
NyssC184 Osm1111dt1 rfgolis 8 35 Pl,yllodocc 13 7 1>0p1>Y set Papavc-r
0S(fOSJN:ntmm 135, 205 s ubs1ittnes 3 .. PJ1ylloswcl1ys l 77 blue sec Meco11opsis

0 Ost,ya 84
\ 1 irgi11ia11tr 84
Pcdiorncrus 232
Pd,irgoniwn 16 . J 54. 205.
Pl1yodi,w set' Caltisia
l'l1ysolis 207. 309
California 224. 224
I limala)'an srt 1\leconopsis
oak srr Qun(US Otll()llll(f S('f )Cll('(i() 235.249 Pl1ysoct1rp11s I 37 Welsh see Meconopsis
oak. silky StT Grn·illm Ourisic, 2.05 ·,-\ 11:tJ)p)' I hought' 205 ph)'lophthora root d1sc:,sc 57 Populus 10. 53. 86
0(0 304 O,wzl1s 105. 275 di\'i~io n or rool whe~ Picco 70. 73. 85 cuu ings 22. 50. 86
0011111111 lx1silicum (ba..,,1) 290. obtust1 27$ 235.249 galls i I x i111ermncricmw 86
29 1 rubno!ltt 304 tolwtu111 2-19 mor'ri)o111c"fo 85 Poriug:il cabbogc 309
x (><lo11t1oclt1 183 OX)'gcn:itor.. 171 Pdlcmr l 59 pickerel weed 168 Porrulaw 229. 309
x Odo1110<ul111m 180, 18"3 O,:orJumum~ l 3S Pt·hcmd1<1 168 Pkri!> 137 Portulttcm iCI cifrn 24 1
Otlo11roglossum 180, 183 Pclri11liyllum 193 JCIIJOlli(ll I 3 7 pOI mangold s-u Calcmlula
odonwglo~:-.unu, 179, 180
x (Mo,uo11w 183
p Pclroplw,mn 85
Pc11111Sflllrll 177
piggyback pla1u 210. 2JO
PHeosr.·gfo 137
Porm11ogtw11 168. 171
pOlllOC> 26. 281. 285. 301,-7
Ocmlfri<I 135 Pm hyct1t11s 248 Pru.stenu>n 137, 153. 155, PifOS()(('ft'US 250 gc:nc:11t tnginectrng l5
Ocnothr,a 205. 229. 309 rt1d1y,,hyurn1 248 164. 205 pincushion c~lCIUS ~er Po1em,lla IO I . 138, 207
offscls: di"iding o,•i/enun 237 lumwfgii 205 ,\rammiU,ufo pouing mixes 33-4
.iquatic 169. 169 P,1d1y170,ti11m 241 Pl"tll<IS 137 pine st'e Pi111,s pouch n owcr sa C,daolorw
bromcliads 172-3, J 72 Pad1yd1izus tubemsi,s 309 1:>eony set Paeo11ia pine,pplc 18. 174. 174 p r.t)•er p lan1 202
bulbous 254-5. 254 Pad1Jsmulrn 205 Peperomia 205 pineapple nower 268, 268 p rickly 1>e:it set o,,11111i"
cycad 69. 69 Pnd1yswd1)•S 135 J>eppers 222 pineapple g~llls 7 r primrn~c see Pnmula
1cm 163 Ptu~o11i,r 19. 136. 151. 152. 204 chili 280. 298 pine.pplc lily 268. 268 Primu/a 17. 19. 149. 151.
palm 67. 67 rnmbessrtlrsii 20-# collec1ing seeds 298 pink see Dicmrhus 157. 164. 167. 206-7
succulcms 234. l.J4. 235. dela""Ji: scanrying seeds ho, 309 Pitrns 86 scooping 20&-7. 207
247.247 J02 sweet (bell) 298 cones 53. 71. 71 vcris 206
okra 292 dividing 148. 149. 204 1>erennials 146-85 syh,fS(ris: grar1ing 7J privet 133. 133
old man c-acl\ls 243, 2-IJ scedhcads 204 .-1-Z 186-213 Pi1><r 137 p roblems 46-7
old ma1t°s beard sec Ckmmis suffniticostr ·Reine charactcrislics 14 7 Pi1>1a11thus 137 Proboscillf<1 229
o lc:;mdcr l35, HI Flis,bc1h· IJ6 cuuings 14 7. 154-8 />1so11ia 137 Prosw111hrra 139
Olrm-iii 18. 9<>. 135 p;1god:1 tree St't' SOJ'hOl'll dividing 14 7. 1-18-50 PisW<itr 86 l 1J'CHfd 139
olcasttr see f·foe"gnus 126 l)aintc-d ru:ulc see h}'bridizing 153 Vis1i" 168 Pnmrllt1 207
Omplt,dodes 205. 229 Soletiostrmon roo1ing media 154 Pis,1111 (peas) 18. 20. 282. Pnwus 51. 52. 61. 87. 98. 99.
0 11ciditu11 183 palmetto 65 from seeds 147, 151-3 285.305 138
onions 25,284 , 286. 292-3 palms 49, 65-7 seeds: sowing in guucring J05 avium: roolSlOCks 56
o rn:11n cn1al set· Allium gathering seeds 05. 65 cle:rning l 5 1 Pltettiniio 174 urnsife,·<1 ·Coif 22. 87. 87
\\'cl~h 309 d ividing ofT.::c1s 67, 67 g:uhering 151 pitcher p lan1 208, 208 dulns: gathering seeds 87
0 11odr" 159 pregermm:uing seed ., 66. ,germination 15 1 P1uospon1111 137 rrnil 5J
0 1101JOulum (Onopordon) 229 66 P(1-c:,liill 250 ·G:irnc:uff IJ7 roo1S1ocks 56. 57. 87
o,,1uopogon 205 27(>
l)n111im1t11; 1'fnl\1i<,11(1 Pc,·csl:1ops1s 240 g r:ifling 109 raising 87
OpJuys 185 pampa~ gm:-....; 22. l 77 $JNlll111lc,tc, 2'fJ Plogiorlu:gmn scr Jeffcrso11it1 ·Y:ie·mur:lsaki' 87
o,,usmt!llllli 177 P,mcrnfium 275 Pcnrnll1~ 205 p l:mc 86, 86 r~cudobulbs 11 , 26
Op1111r1t1 .37. 232. 249 Pc111dm1w, 85 Pe, ,lfo 229 p lant collec1or~ 13 lx,ckbull,s 178. 179-80,
~,cm Culling~ 249, 2-19 Pcmitwn 229 pcrlitc 31. 33. 3 4 p lan1 problem~ 46-7 I 79
orach 29S pan:-)' Sl"f Viofo cu11mg!> 111 156 p l:rn1:11n 204 , 20-l canchkc 18 1, J8J
orange 'H. 78 pao!>y orchid 183 Pt', ,1t11y,~srr Gm1lll1e1 w pla1uain Iii>• scr Hosw d i"iding 179, J 79. )80-1.
on::h1d cac:tu~ St!t Ep11,hyllum Pa1X1v1·, (poppy) IS i . 204,228 Puovslm, 137 plamlci,23, 24, 25. 150.16 1. 180. 184-~. 184
orch id , LS. 19. 39. 178-85 0 11e11tt1ft 151. J5J. 158, Pe.,·sett 8.5 161. 169. 169. 182-3, 182. dormant eyes 180. 180
advco1i1iousgrow1h~ ISi. 204 grafting 85. 85 210. 2JO. 235 Psr:mlofumc1rie1 Sc:t Co1ydal1:i.
181 rl1Mas Shirley Series 228 from seeds 85 plastic fltin 14. +t. -l-l Psruclol<1rh 86

317
INDEX

PsemlosaSti 177 grnfimg 109 rosary vine see Ce,011tgia S<uifrnga 26. 164. l67. 209 from 11u1c. and nut 4

1>st"udot~uga 73. 88 ht)'Crtng: )hOOh for 1J9 Unca, is subsp. woodii 11(micullrw 22. 22. 20Q hkc fr1111~ 5), l02
Psylliosracl1ys 229 Rh0<lotJumurns 139 ROS(M(I 276 runners 150. J.SO from orn:imental
RhodolJl><>S 139 ga1hcr111g S(':ed.s 276 S(Hl(W 209 grn~~c~ 176. J 76
"""" 89. 139 from pod, 53, 102.
Pu,.is 159 rhubarb 306 dividing 276 swlonifern 150
1>u,wactu) 250 d1vuhng J06 rose ba)' stt Nerium 5rnbiO.S(I 209, 229 151. 216. 232.232
l'ten.KCl,Y(I 89 IH111, 139 rosema1)' set Rosm,u-imi> scolmg 25. 25. 253. 25$-9. winged ~eds 53
1>,c,.Q<dti!> 89 Rrb4!.-. 139 roseuc cumngs 166. 167. 258 development 17, J 7
1>u,-os1ymx 139 cuuings 94, 99. l.39 167. 171. 237. 2J7 1win ~caling 25. 2S. 2•n.
4 di.spcrsal me1hod.s 18.
Pulm,ma, ia I 48, 207 rmd grahing 62. 63, 63 Rosnwrim,s (roscnmr)') 1 1. 259.259,269 18. 19
Puf.;cmllc1 151. 158. 164. 206 npe-wood cunings 70. 70. 22. 139. 287. 288,29 1 -..callum .\t't r\llmm 292 dormancy lO-L l, 19
pumice 167 166, 166. 189. 189 layering 290. 29() -.c.:1nf1cat1on I), 19. 53--L 5.3, b,·eaking 19. 20. 53-5.
cuuings in 167, 167 Robini11 53. 54. 56. 62. 89 Rossiogfo.ssum 183 102. 10). 152. 152 72. 103. 119. 152,
1)uinpk11b281. 300-1 'ld.i.ho' 89 RothltlWHIIII 8t) Srlujflrrn 89 152
ga1hering seeds 300 rock jasmine- su And,osare roral rcrn 8 Stl111111!. 89 chemical 19- 20
Pi,yt1 172, 174 rock rose 122. 122 ro)·ttl 1x1lm 05 Sd11:c1111lms 229 embryo lQ
Pywcamha 96, 138 rockwool 35. JS. 95. 154. Roysronec, 65 pi111uu11s 229 seed coat 19
gathering seeds J.38 222 Rulms 11. 18, HO 5thiz<><0<lon 209 dusted 282. 282
Pytcrl1rum s.cc Ttmctcrt111t1 R0tlgersia 207 lip larcnng 2-f. HO Stl11:opl11<1gnw 141 germination 20, 20
Py111s53. 57.61 , 88 Romans 12 Rudbcckic, 107. 228 Sd11 ZtJ.\01 l1s 209 large: sowmg 55. 55. 06,
cc1llc1ytuw 88 Romneya IJQ R11111ex 29 l. 309 Sd1hm1bt,:gc,cr (Christmas 66. 85. 232. 232
double-working 88. 88 Romuletr 276 numcr bean-. 304 cactus) J 6, 238. 241. 2" J. pellct<d 14. 282. 282
fmlOOc0tJ111111 276 runnc~ I I. 22. 148 250 pregcrmin:ucd src chlllcd

Q
quack grass 1 I
TOOi (lllllllj!,S 2)--1 , 2J. 75.
75. 122. 158. 158. 167.
167. 288. 288. 299
of co111aincT·grown 1>!:inb,
150. 150
d1v1~ion 15-0, J50
Sd,mia 89
Srntdopir)';:; \<ttucillaw 89
S<tlla 276
~ccd~
primed <~1,ru11cT) 1-1. 1:82,
282
<1u.iking grass 221. 22 J rooHT.1iners JO. 80 rooting 197, 197 CIUflfltuWk 276 rcpTod\1<:11011 fro m 10-11
quamash 263 TOOi 1,,bcTs 20. 27 Rusducr 250 />ftl(\ 1(111(1 276 ~;,1nfyin~ l3. 19. ·n--t.
Queen of the Night ;:;er dnhhn 266 Rustu~ IO I, J-1.1 scooping 25. 206-7. 207, 253. SJ. 102. 103. 152. 152
~elcniurcus divuJing 235. 235. 2-19 ru"'hes 175 27 l. 271 ~mokc.- 1rca1mc111 20, 10)
Q,.,,rns 18. 20. 53. 55. 88 roo1·bud cuumg~ 171 . 171 Ru~MJn vme Ste Polygonum sconng 25- 6. 25. 253. 268. ~o:1km1t 19. 5)--1. 65.
macrn111J1a,1 88 rootstocks 45. 56. 57. 84. Ruto 141 268 152. 152. 16·1
self-sown 88 108.114.239 rutabaga 297 scorpion orchid 18 1 -..owing:
Q11rs11tlit1 174 don:11 l 5. 50 scoT:onera 306 alpin('-.. 164-"5, 16-f,
quince sec CJ•<lo11ia oblonga pc~b :md d1...,_.a!>.C.., 57 ,S(tc>pl111forie1 20Q 165

R
-..1ooling 5b-7, 56
u-ench (c11ol:uion)
la)'Crmg 57, 57
s
Se1bcd 65
.St 111elforit1 209
sea hollv , see f· ry11gi11111
sea pink 188
'
:.11mu.1l-.. :rnd biconi:1ls
216-19.217,218.219
:.1qua11cs 170. l 70
Rlldcn11ad1trn 89 Rcmppcr 30b .Sc1bi1w sctju11i1>erns seakillc 299 broadc,Li,t 2l9. 219.
radicchio srr Odwnum 298 cu11111g, 306 Sc1uh,m,m 177 seakalc beet 295 284.284.285
r;,1chsh see Ro11hmm$ -..owing306 saddle grnft 85. 85 scc1ionmg 253. 262. 262-J bromcliads 173. J 7J
R,ifflrsia 16 Ro"' (rose) 2 1. 112-17 sage (eulinar)') 287. 290. 29 1 sedge<. 175 bulbou:i. plants 256.
r:w,ed bc<I> 33. 283. 283 bm1l:swe 112, 112. 113 cuuings 287 St',lum 229. 234. 251 256
Rmnoncla 11, 157. It,$, 207 budding 93 omament;.11ser Sah i<r leaf cuumg-.. 25 J cac1i and 01hcr
rmnp1on 309 ccmhw 114 sagebrush see A,remisio 188 nd,rolmc Imo 25 J succulents 232- 3.
Rmumculus 164, 168, 207 chintnsis 'Major' 1 L4 Sogirwria I 68 ,prcwlnli· 2H, 234 232
Ra1.>ulu1 22, 167. 207 climbrng 113 s.,go palm 69 wed drills 2 1S-19. 218. 283 C)'COdS 68. 68
Raph"''"' (radish) 284. 305 cunings l L2-13, J J2 St. John'~ wori 'il't' lfyptntum ~cd :i.oil mixes 33, 3-1 in drills 55.55. 2 18.
in1crsowing 285 'Dr. Hue)•' l 14 Sm11111<mlicr 1 1, 207 s.cdbcd, 32. 55. 55. 104 218. 283. 283
Rc1pltiokpis 139 ·orcaming Spirc5" J J2 'Rnght E)'c•: 207 ptotec1mg 45 cquipmcn1 for 28. 28
raspberrlts 14, 18. HO X fo 1IUtlf(lllO l l 4 leaf cullings l '57. 157 St~llc 32 Ouid-,owing 284. 28"
r-.us 1ail cac,us su R'1ipsalis floribtmda {cluster· ;;owmg 296 s,cdling grart 124. 243. 24J herbs 290
RClve,uda 89 nowcrccl bu~h) 113. .,.:,lad rocktl 309. 309 seedlings: l.1w11-, 177-8. 178
Rcb1111a 235. 250 115 Se1l1., (willow) 16, 53, 89, 140 core 47. 165. 233. 257 Oil Ill()% l65, f6.5.
ca,1iguernlii r. rauscherii grnr1111g 93. 11 l-15. I 13. 'llowks' li)'bnd· 89 S('tf-sown J.53. 25i 208.208
239 I H , 115 <«1nra: 'Kilm:1rnock' 57, 1hinning 2 19 , 219, 28-1. orn.1111cn1:1l grn.s~6
grafting 239 groundcovcr l 12, l l 3 89 285 17~
WfSSllfri(U1(l 2$0 how seed, <lcvdo1) l 7. I 7 creating a srnnd.i.rd 57. 89 1ranspla1111ng 54. 55, 153. IMlm~ 05-0, 66
redbud Sl'f Cocis 77 hybrid IC~l (large.nowel'ed cuuings 50. 94. QS. 99. 153. 217-18. 232. Bl. pNtnmal-.. 151-.51.
re<-d 177 bu,h) 113. 11 5 166 286 1.52, 153
reed grns, 177 h)'brldlz,ng 116-17. 116. grafting 89 seeds: ro,<, 116- 17. 116
Rch,krocJrnd,011 89 117 x sri1>111dris 57 :mil1ci:1l 15 :,hruh:-. anti climbers
reproduclion of plan,~ 10-1 L 114
fll\(l \ imi11cd1s 1-10 h uymg 216,216.282, 282 102-1. IOJ, 104
Resc,la 228 ·t,.'1crmaid' l 12. l 13 )c,lp,glossis 229 chemical mhibuor:-. in at !iola1ions 284, 284
resin: removing from skin 72 minia1urc 1 l3 solsif)' 308 19-20. 54. 103. 152 irecs 54, 55, 55
RJumrnus 139 modern shrnb J 13 S,1l,i/1 11 . 22. HI. 208. 228 chiucd I 4. 60. 66. 68, 68, vegetables 282- o. 28J.
Rlwp.s 65, 67. 67 muluj101cr 114 iodant11<1: cu11rng:, 155 282.282, 284 284. 285.286
RJ1tum 149,207.306 old garden I 13 oificinalis (sage) 287. 290. cle:ming 5), 102. 15l, storing 53. 53, 65. 65. 72.
dividing 306 pa1io (dwarf clusLer· 291 173,173.232. 256 102. 151. 216. 216.
Rhi1,S<d1s 250 nowerecl) 112, 113 CUIIIOf,!.:, 2$7 coated 282. 282 256.282
pilocar1x, 250 1>1mpinrlli/oh(t 11.3 splrnclrns Cleop:u m S<·nc.. gatherrng 21. 21 stratification 19. 54. 72.
side grafting HI . 250. 250 /)(}/mrrimw 114 208 fro m aquatic plants 90. 103. IOJ. 116. 151.
rhizomes 12. 26. 26 rnmblcr 113 )nmburn~ 51. I ·JO 170.170 153. 164. 165. 232. 256
euuings 191 . 191. 192. roo1.stock-. I H s.:md dollar c;1ctm, 243, 2·13 from berries 65. 65. strucrnre 17. 17
192.288.288 rngosc, 11-1 Scmgm~o, '1<1 209 102. 103. 151. 152. lrc:ued 14,2 16
division or 149. J.19, 109, fro m <;Ced~ 1 16--17, J 16. ,t,
ScmSt.., m 208 173. 17J. 256 types 102. 282. 282
175-o. 175. 181 117 cu11ings I 57, 208. 208 from ca1>sules 102, viabilitr 19, 151-2
ferns I 62. I 62 ~hrub 11 '5 Smuoli,ur 141 151. 216. 256. 256 1c,1mg for 72. 151.
sconng 2J J ~J>tCIC!io 112, ) 13, ll6 Sml\ iralicr 229 from catkins 53. i6 256.282
tcTrcs1rial orchids 184 :,l:mdards: Sc1prndus 89 from cones 7 L- 2. 72 Selagmellt1 209
Rlu"'fo11tl1e 229 fOOl',IOCk!io 114 Sc,piton 89 from exploding Sclenian;u.s 2-tO. 2-1 I, 2-1 J.
111,odiol<, 250 T-buddmg 115. II .5 Sapo1wrie1 209 sccdhcads 151 250.250. 251
Rl1odo,t.:n,lro11 18. 24. 93. 9-1 , ~lormg pollen J 16 Sarcocoaa IOI. 14 1 from ncshy fruits 53. grmuliflornfi 2.5 f
95, 104. 13$-9 sucker,, IOI. 113, IIJ S<1n<1ccriic, 208 53. 103. 232 sclf-roo1cd cu11111g.,. J66. 167
air laycrmg 105 wrd1111cmt1 h)'n. sowing on moss 208. 208 from nuITy scedhcads scnn·npc cutting~ 23. 2J, 51.
·C\lnningham's \Vh11c' R. w1d 11umco1<1) 112, SaS-<1 177 173. 173. 232. 232 51 . 70. 70. 9'Hi. 9.5. 96.
139. 139 113. 115 5dssafrcis 89 from herbs 290 110,110.111. 120. 154

318
 INDEX

)rmi<u/uilegid 209 planting 307 Sttrnbr,gi,1 25-t. 277 ,word rem 'iff Nrplu-olrpis 10111aullo 309
.)r,m,mmdinana 177 11,bew~u,n (potato) IS, 26. Sttwllttia 90 ,ycamorc srr l)fouwus 8b 1oma10<S 20. 303, JOJ
.Sem1H'n I\ 1m1 237. 25 l 281,285,JOo-7 mon(lddplur 90 S_ymphonrmpos IOI. 105. disease resis1ance 282
mbmtum 242. 2-12 c:hiumg 306 S11pa i 75. 177 142 grafling 303. JO.J
com1>l<mat1u11 242 Soldcmellt1 209 ,1ock 228. 228 albus J-12 in grow bags 286
,1(1\\0fdlil 242 Soleuolw 209 stock pla,us 24, 24. JS-t, cullmg, J-12 1ools 28-9
nwsfem~ri 242 Sole,1os1emo11 l l. 209 310 Sy111,,hym1dw 211 locmc, 9 l
5f'lll"CIO l-11. 209. 235. 251 cunings 15-1 M<lg,wlia 83, 83 Symphytum I 58. 211 1op-work111g 63, f 30
dl\'idmg 235. 251 Solidago I 55. 209 Pr1ums ·coll' 87. 87 Symplot()$ 143 lopping (hosrns) 201. 201
seeds 2J2 )( Sc>liclcistcr 209 S<ohx 89 Synculrmum 250 fownsrwlia 11 1
sen'-•tivc rem 159 soma1ic embl')'OS 15 Stoltrsw 22. 209 Syngo111um 143 fo\"1rowirndr(m s.ee Rims
sent') p.1lm s<c Dv1,sis Sovhom 90. 1-t l soolons 162-3, 234-5 Svnnga (lilac) 101, 142 Trad1dm111 211
5r,111oill QI scarirying seeds 102 Stomcmum 2.50 , ulg,1ns: ' Prcs1dcn1 C,rtvy· rrad1efo.,pt·inaum H}
5r,111oi<ukmlro,1 90 x )011lirolaeliocat1lc)•a 183 stone cress 186 142 ·r,(l(;hyrm 1ms 65
<:Oil(' 90 X>11l1ro11i1is 183 stonecrop su .Sedum Sy:ygum1 91 Ttarhymene 229
S<tapi<1s 185 Sorbana 101. 141 sioolong 24, 24. 5b-7. 56 ·r,(llltSUUIIUI 155. 2 1()
,cl'pi.'111ll1C bycnng 107, IOi.
131
~orbus 54, 61. 90. HI
bcrnes 5J
stornge organs 25-6, 25. 26
stra11rica1ion 19. 54. 72. 90. T ztbrnur 210
nc,go,,ogon 308
Srsl><mm 91 <ommi.,w 90 103, !OJ. 116. 151. f5J. r-budding 62-3. 62, 114, Tra1m 229
S1·,1,lt·m1 177 cxtrncung seeds .5J 164, 165, 232 114.115 ttaveler!t JO\ sre Ckmm1s
~cxu.1I rcproduc11cm 1~11 . .,1m11fying :,.ecds 90 51raumrs 168. 169 fcdKbuia 91 tree or hca,·cn -.u J\1lm11lm.,
lo-11 S(.11gl1astnu11 177 str~,,, berr)' St'f FragfH'ia lcrca1 2 I I 75
~hadbu-.h ${'{' J\mdcmchu.·, l 1a wncl srr O\"alis str:t\\berl')' cac1us 248 'lcrgcus 229 ll'CCS .. 9-73
,h:uJmg .. , . 4'$ <-0rrcl (herb) 1Q I stmwbcrrr 1oma10 309 hardening off 229 A-Z 74-91
~hallo1~ 191 '-QncJ (\'CjtCt.,blc) 309 strawbcrf\' tree su Arfm1us lalipot palm lb ~,ir layering 64, 6-1
,hamrork St"(" O"rh), soUlhcrn beech 8-i <.tra" flower 22 I. 22 J lcrmcm11<lus 9 1 budd111g 49, 60-3. 60, 61.
Sl11l)(1tt1M 177 !--Oybc.tn \09 ~rrdu:;:i<1 209 ·rcrm(lrl). ( rnmarisk) 98. 142 62
,h1cld fern '>ft Poly•ttithwu s,J(ff(l,,\'I~ 277 51tt'plO<arpus l l. 2 IO 'fclll(ICt'IUIU 2 1l cu11iogs 49
Sluntw 109 Sp"rt11m1 141 caulrscrt1s 2JO ftU'(l\ll(Ultl 18 ex1rnc1ing seeds 53. 53
,hn,bs 93-117 S11<1tluk'lc" QI h::.1r cu111ng::, 157, 157. officmolr 309 fruits and seedpods 53
A-Z I 18-45 Sp<1tl11ph)'ll11m 209 110. 210 taro srr Colow.sia grafting 49, 5b-63
chnr:.ictcnsiu;!, 93 -,pear grn.,~ SC'< Poc,; St1pc, S1tt·ptosole11 141 torrngon 289. 291 layering 49. 64, 64
Clllltllg!, 9"\, 9-1---10) -.pccdwcll .\ff \thonia, Sttob1lm11/1rs 211 faxoditun 18. 72. 91 pruning arter budding 61
d1vh1on 101. IOI ~,,hC1rral<fa 209 Slronumthe 21 l ftt.\1'5 72. 90 roo1s1ocks 56-7. 56. 57
gr:,ftong 93. I 08-9 -,puJcr flower srr Clt-omc Stromborncws 250 frcomc, 9 l from seeds 49, 53-5
b)'Crtllg IQ'.,-7 -,p1der plan1 scr C11lo,opl1) 111111 S1umr111 90. 90 faommu/1r 143 seed dormancy 53-5
1iJ>CflCSSof wood 9-1 -,pm:ich 308 S1yfopl1m um 211 fuopfulcmr 278 simple layering 64. 64
from !<!CCd!'! I 02-4 spulach bcc1 29'> -,ucculcnb 230-41 ·r,-Hmu1 211 frt>mtHos1,rn1w 250
-.ccdheo1ds 102 s,,mm,a 308 A-Z 242-51 Tclopm 1-13 1rcnch layering 57. 57
suckers 93, IOI -,pmdk1rec 127.127 ch,1rne1cn-.11t.., 23 t temple ]xii .. 209 fnd1vurrns ~rr f.d1111011'S1~
S1,lcdue1 209 :,1>irea su S1mm'.e1 141 cu ttmg.!> 231, 236-8, 236, tenting .38. 4-1 ·fr1c#1(}(li(l(lrma 250
!,Ide graf1ing 2-10-1. 240, 250, S1,1rnct1 1-1 I 237, 2.l8 rt·, 'llll1C1l1t1 9 l r,,,y,th 21 1
250 splecnwon sre J\spkn111m dov,ding 23 1. 234-5, 2.H. Tt, II SllOC'/111(1 I +3 lmw 21 I
side·" edge graf1 85 spliced side gr.thing 58, 58 235 Tnrml1m11u1 su D10)(0rf(I l>lcm cu11111g~ 21 1. 2J J
5iltrie 209. 229 spliced side.veneer grarting cpoph) IIC 23 I Tttrllgonw 308 ·r, 1Johum 111
silk)' oak set Grr,•illca 58-9, 73, 7J. 189 grafiing 23 I . 239--11. 239. Trt1ag0t1olobu.s 1mr1m1tm T,11l111m 211
silver bee1 295 Si>or<S 18, 159-CiO, 159, 160 240, 241 309 s.corrng rlrn:omcs 2 J J
s1h•er jade plan, 245 spoucd orchid 185, 185 pollinaung b) h:rnd 233, lfoancma 21 l r, 1rdtra 278
~liver torch 2-f5 ~,,rekdia 2 77 23J 1Cuo11m1 H3 la.>a 278
silver vmc st·r 1\ctmidi<1 118 sproutrng broccoli 297 rrom seeds 231. 232-3. texcl greens 309 '111t1curn 1 1
5ilyfmm 229 s 1>roub 297 232.2JJ 1lwlicuw11 210 li'itonia 278
Smmuncl11wrn1 177 spn1cc see P1ee11 seedlings: aquilegi1Joli1,m 210 r,ollms 149.21 1
S11111mg1a 277 -,purge ser Euplio,bill care 233 1'11rlornr1us 250 n·o1>cu•olw11 212. 229. 278
CUlhll&.!> 277. 277 ><111oshcs 281. 185. 300-1 1rn11spl.1111m~ 232. fl1rlyp1eris I 5Q majus: 'llcrmine Grashofr
S1!-yrmd1111m 209 gnthcnng seed~ JOO 233. 2.JJ r l1ennops1s 2 11 229
Sum, ~1S(inun 309 sc.1 uimng cucumber 18 "'<'Cd"-· 111e\•ftW 9) 1>of1·1>h)fl11m 278. 278
Slwmma 16. 1-f l S1ad1\'s 209. 308 g.uhc rmg 232 1 l1lrup1 2 l 1 seeds 19. 164
.!tkarrc1 309
-.lip1>er Oower !it~· Ct1luolmia
Swd1yurus 141
:-1:.lle stcdbcd tcchmquc J2
'>P''"
232
sowmg 2J2, 233
ohong; 198. 29<l,299
thrirt 188
s1x-cios11m 212. 2JZ
trout Iii) ~ft J:ryrhrommn
~lipf>Cr orchid Sff' ,1and:mb: gr.1rt111g 27. 57. 57. ,·:meg;ncd forms 2.36 rl1ujo9J trumpet vine 120
Pt1pl1wpt"(i1lum 89. I I 5. II$. no.
1..10 ~uckcr:, 12. 101. 101 . 17-t. Tl1unl>t'Fgill H 3. 2 l 1 lsuga 9 I
.!>lip.!> 174. 174 Sranhof'ta 183 174, 20-1, 289 1f111nia 181 cl1inrnsis: cones 7J
-.lit 1rcn<:h 50. 50, 98. 98 Swprlw 2-t 1. 250 ,ug;1r pea~ 305 lh)'lne St'f n 1ymus tubercles l7. 186. 186
5milctdna 209 ~ra,,l,ylta 1-t t S11/tordmllll Sfi' R1·butur Tl1ymophylfri 229 tuberose su Po/imu/1es 270
Smi1huuulw 209 s1ar.o(.Bethlchcm 275 .!>UlllaC 139 Tlaynw~ (lh )mC) 287,289. ttibcr, 12. 25.3
,moke bush sec Com111s st~trfish plan1 su c, v,,umdiu.) summer purshme 309 290,291 SC't 11/so bulbou~ plants
~m,·rnUm1 229 s1~1rflo,,er 27 1,271 sun ro:,e 122, 122 la) crmg 290. 290 d1v1dmg 235. 235
sn:1ke plant sec St111sc\.1t"11cr stem cumngs 79. 9-t, 9-1, sun tunnels 45 Tit1rl"llt1 2 11 roo1 26, 27
208 154-(,, 185,185.2 11 , 211, sunflower src.- Hdur11tlms T1boucl1111u H1 dahha 266
sneeteweed sec I fdt'1tHHt1 200 302,302 Swa111$01W 14 1 ticksced see Cort·o11sis 1>r1t,rgomum 249. 249
snowbc") stc SJ mphorlrn,7)0s basal 156--7, 156, 157, Jom1osa 12-t, 12-1 tiger nowcr 278. 278 Slem 11, 25, 27
snowdro1> 269. 269 263.263.266,266, ~wamp cypre.~ srr Taxmlrnm T1~ridiu 278. 278 folbagh111 278
snowflake 272. 272 277. 277 Swan nvcr d:111,y ift TiliCI 'H. QI 1ulip orchid 181
snow pea 305 or cac1i 236, 236. 238. llwd1yrnmt olh-r11: fruits 9J tulip tree 82, 82
sor1wood tunings 23. 23, 52. 238,249,249 sweel box SU SmtOC{J(Ctf T1llmuljw 172.173. 17-l Ji>h/XI (tulip) 25,254,257,
52.83.BJ. 100-1 , 100. stem sections 182. 183 swce1 Cicely 291 t.ymm, 172 279
112- 13. II 2, 156, 166. stem tubers l l. 26. 27 swec1 gum su L1quldm11bm sec<lhta(b 17J l1U$ll(d1, FI
166.166,266. 287,287 s1cm•tip cunings l Ol. l 54. 82 ,u,0111111 J 73 ·~1clla R1Jnvcld' J J
soils 32-3. J2 154. 155-6, 166 swec1 marjornm 291 oip larering 11, 2-1. 140 t.s:el11mgar11tt1 279
~•erillZing 33. JJ m roll 155. 155 sweet pea su Lad,yn,s T11ho,1ia 229 1upelo 84
warming41 ,·H 51rnocarms 250 swee1 1>olatO 302 10.1d Iii) 211, 211 1urlo1b26, L71, 171
soil mixes 33-5 5rrnorcupus 91 cuttings 302 toadnax srr Unana turnips 286. 297, 297
5olm1clrn 141 5rrnorel'eus 250 swee1 suhan 220 toddy palm 66 1u.ssock grns,._.:: sre Co, weir, w
Solcmum l-fl Srtnow,,h,wn 177 sweel \Villiam 193 Tolmica men:u:su 210 1win·SC.:almg 25. 2.S. 153. 259.
crispum ·GJasne,·in' HJ Srrphmwrulra 14 1 Swiss chard 295 prop.1ga11ng pbntlcb 210. 259, 269. 274
mdongr11a (eggplan1) 306, Srrpha,1011s 141 ~wiss cheese 1>Lam 13,f-S, 2IO twin:,,pur s~:"i Dit1$Cm 194
306 Jforibumfc1 J41 134, us · ralf's Gold' 210 'fy1>l1t1 168. 170

319
ACKNOWLEDGIVIENTS

UV nuid sowmg 28-t, 28-1

muhiblock 286, 286
viru:)CS -16-7 . .J6
Vi.\-w, '" set' l!.vduus
\\h1scmia 255, 279
wauk sec Arndo
\VO(M'ISill 15()
\Vo0<lwnrclit1 l 59
IJd1rlmt11111ut 250 muhipk 284-5, 28.5 Visc-11111 1·13 wa.~ Oower sr~ HdJtl worm<; -10
Ug11i 143 ;ll s1a1ioo:. 284. 284 Vi1ex 14) weaning nc,, plan1s -+5 ,,·ormwood 'lt't' Artr,uisi<1
lJI« H l vegc1a1ive 1>ropag~ni<n1 lO, 11 , Vi1is l8, 144 Wcbt ,ocrreus 250 \\ 'ulfe11w 2 13
Ulmus 11 . 52. 9 1 22- 7 c.:utting.~ 97. r-H \\'t'rgda lO l , l·H
U11c111w 212 origins 12-13 Wei11gmUC1 see Rcburia
Vvufm w 1-18 . 21 '\
\'t,uuuum l-12
Vdthdmio 279. 279
\'11ti/trn I -1.J
\11 it'Sllt 17-f \ Vclsh onioo 309 XYZ
b1·tmcc1w 252 x \'uyb1rkrnrn 183 \Vclsh po1>1>}' Sff i\ff(()U()J)SI) Xm1rhnd(fl t1s 1-15
my1111lus .36 Vrt11diomnor1s J89 Wdwirsd,i<J 111irnbilis JO X,111rho1h1~a 1-1'>
\hktfolld 2 13
\hlcri,mdlll f0cu.sw 109
\1111couwric1 2 13
\'(-tllfli1m1 J 89
vcntil:u io n .38. -12
\'a(ltnon ?12
w
\\id1knbe1gm 21 }
\Vrstri11gw 145
wheat:
evolution 11. I I
Xe,01,h)•ltum 2 1 3
yarrow su J\dullm
yellow pone.I lily su N11plwr
\'(111dc1 183 \'.-rbasrnm 158. 212 \Vcdclsurnur 2 13 seed t1scd m (Ulling.s 13 yellow poplar 82. 82
\'<lllda g roup 182 ·G:unsboroogh' 212 waJJnower SU fl)'MmlflH WIU J) gr..1rttng 58. J09 yew 72, 90
stem sections 182, JSJ \'nbr,w 212 walnut s.:c J ugfm1s whip-and-tongut g r,1fting 57. foCCtf 145
vegetables 280-91 cuurng:-. 9.f wandnower sec O,r,mm, 59, 59 b ud euurngl> HS
,1- Z 292-309 'Sissinghursl' 212 \\hsf1i,ig1011id 6S whittbe:un 90 d1vii.1on of ..,uckcr-- 145
climbmg 286 vcrnuculne JJ. J04. J5J water fern su 6fcd111um whcmlcberries 142 elt·phmu,pes li5. H.5
m containers 286, 286 \honirn I55. 212 water forgc t-1111: -not 171 \Vig(mdi,1 1-15 fi!c1mr,u"~' 22. H5
crop rot;:11ion 282-3 \-h omwstnon 2 U water ga1·del'I pla1H:io 168-71 W1g,~imi<1 2-f<) jlt1(tult1 1-15
disc,,se-resistan1 282 \'trv.un sn.· \bhr111t bulbils 17 1, 171 wild rv(·
, "ff J:l). 11t1Vi
1 stem cuttings 1-15
feeding 283 V1lm111u111 19 . l-13 ,uu ings 17 1. 171 willow ,)ff s,,1,, Hls'1w1iu 177
hardening off 286 l1t11'1ifol111111: ~owing I ·U dividing 16$-9. 168, 169 willowhnb 18 Zc1mi<1 69
m1ercropping 2.85. 285 View J,dm 17. 308, J08 hybridizing L71 X \V11$ot1<IW 183 :cmu,ksd1i<1 213
rntersowing 285. 285 v,cro, ur 168 from seeds l 70, J 70 w1ndnl)wer :.1·c· Allfltl()II(' t1e1l11opiai ·crowborough'
<iecdling$: Victorian~ 13 wmter buds (mrions) wiocbcrne:~ 1-10 21.l
lh11111111g 284' .l85 V1g11t1 ""lw1cr 308-9 171 . 17/ winter aeo1111c st·t· fl.u,1111 .. =cuu1wxylmn 145
transplanting 286 Villmlit1 250 w,,tcr gladiolus sec Butomus wiotcr bud:, ( tunon:.) 26. Zm,sd111rn<r 2 1 3
~eds 182 \'inc,r 143 w.iter h)•acimh 168. 168 171, 17/ Zc.·<1 m<1ys (corn) 16. 283. 285.
:.011 pre1>:ir:uion 28J vine spinach 309 water leuuct 168 winier cherr> 1-1 1 308-9, 308. J09
,ow111g 282-o, 28J. 284, l'iof11 155, 151>, 164, 213 w:i1crl1l1cs see Nym1,liae11 winier puri.laoe 309 Zdkow, QI
285,286 mounding 213 water p l:rnt:1in wt· Alisuw winlCI' Sa\'ory 290 ::t·nolmr 145
b ro:idc;:a:-.t 28.f. 28'1. ,ricofot 2 JJ water-retentive ,gel 35, J5 \VistaiCl 107. l ·H Zt·,,h.vrm1thn 279
285 \'iOlet St'f Viold wt1h~rtrc~l> }Ob, JC6 root gra£1ing H-1 guuulljlorn 279
in cell-. 285. 285 Virgil 12 watering ::.)'Siem;;; ·H w11ch grass 11 Z,gmlnms 279
in contamc~ 185 Virginia creeper 130. rJ6 wttt('mlelon 298 w11ch hazel see Htu11,m1d,s Z11111ic, 229
in drill~ 28J \'irgmS bower sre Ckmmis wa1ernum 168. 17 1 \Viurorki<1 174 z.uechioi 300-l

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
ADOOIONAl. EDITORIAL ASSISTANCE <...hve Nichols 214: Oxford Sciemirk Films:
Loui~ Abbou. Claire Calman, Alison Copland. Kathie Alkins.on 20t. C. Prescou~Allcn 2791c,
Nigel Rowlands. Alexa $1::ice; thanks also to Medin I). ·1u11le l6bc; t>ut Philli1>s 1731c: David
Polly l\ord. Canchda Frith-Macdonald. Linden Ridgway IOtr; RIIS Wisley: A J, Halstead 46hr,
t-law1horne, Anna I layman, Irene Lyford. Lesky 71 br: St1encr Photo Library: Cl!.ludc Nuricls.1ny
Malkin. Andn•w M1kofo.Jsld . GcoffStebbms. & tl-farie Ptrcnnou 178bl, J)hihp1>e Pl:ullr I ·hr:
S:irah \\11ldc Sinclair Stammers 1511, 15h r; Rosenfeld Images Ltd
15ter: Harry Smith Collc1.:11on: 19cl. -t6cl, 125c.
AoDITIONA.l. OESKiN ASSISTANCE l(> I(' r, 270c: 11. D, Tindall 299 tr; Two \Vcl:11-l> &
Ursufo Dawson !::Ilion: 4-lbc & b r: \\'oodfall \\'ild Image~: John
Robinson 191
PK;TURE RESEARCH
Angela Anderson PROPS ANO LOCATION PHOTOGRAPHY
Seeds from Chiltern 5-ecds: Colcgnwe Seeds:
J ACKET DEStGN Mr Fotlu:rg1II'$ Seeds: Unwins !>ecds. Pruners
Nathalie Godwin by Fcko; 0 1he r tools by k ind permission
o f Spc.u & Jack:,on. Olhcr items counesy
INDEX o f Ron An)cll; Ru1>erl Uowlby; Erin
Dorothy f rame Gardena; MallhC\\ Greenfie ld. Grow1h
ltehnology. Taunton ; John McL.1ughfon
PHOTOGRAPHY Hortic ulture; Ndll Toub Lid: ChnMopher 1>ietri:.1k:
Peter Anderson rwo \Vests & Ellio11: Wrndru) h Mill
Th!.lnks 10 Bnan ~u,d J:wc t Arm of Rcdkar
AOOITIONAL PHOTOGRAPHY Nursery, Manin Gibbons at 1he Palm Ccn m:.
Andy Crawford and 1'1111 Sand:111 Ttny ltewi11 or Holl)' Gale Caetu-. Nur~I)' :md
R. Harkness & Co. Ltd for prondrng plan1s and
Ro~mrn:th Brown. <..,reg l\h11lins. Greg Redwood a nd
Nigel Rothwell :11 1he Royal Uotanic Gardens, Kew
All the srnff or the RO) :,I I tonic,1hur.1I Socit1>
for their time m~d a~:.i:.rn.ncc. m pamn1l:1r:
Al Vincent Squ:1rc. Sui.annc M11chell. H:trb3ra
lhtrncs and Karen \\'ilsol'I
Al Wisley.Jim Gardiner, David I l1de a nd J1111
hngfand for making the 1>ho10graphy poi.i.1ble
and for their invaluable guidancc~J im Arbury.
M:trion Cox. Afon Robinson for expcn ad\1iee;
and lhc evcr·p!.ltiem s1arr in 1hc gardco. io Gla!.i..
Prop.-1g,111011 ;rnd the Pfom Cenirc, includingJoho
B:.it1y, lk:rn:ml Ho:lfclrnan. Andy Collins, Graham
Cuerdt"'n, Ch;1rlc:, Day. 5,:ill)' Ann Edge. Anne Eve.
<.hire Gosling, Andrew
I Ian. Rkh,nd Head. Lucinda
tachclin. Rupert L..1mben.
Jon-Paul Nicho lc;on. Ashley
R.1m)ho11om. Gill !>kihon.
An111c \:V:ird a nd ~1111 Ve:il

T he publishers would also hkc to 1h:1nk 1hc

follow ing for their k ind pernm,:,ion 10 reproduce
lhcir photographs: AKG 1>ho10 12t~ Peter Andcr'ion
locations for photography

230: Heather Angel: 260cl: A-Z 801:1111c.~a1 Collec11on
l 1d: M:mJohnston IObl. lino Pastorelli l ltl, P:1llava
Oagla l6bl: l'ht Bridgeman An library: Giraudon,
Valle)' or lhc Nobles. Thebes 12b: Bri1ish Museum
1 }11: Br\lce Colman Limited: Dr Ecka rt J)ou lObt:
John Ct1llum, \Vrittlc College: I S cl & c:
Environmcn1al Images: Pe1c Fryer 45cr. Mar)'
Evans J>ic1ure Libra ry 13b: Mike llarrid gc 17311:
T he Garden Picture Libr.iry: Vaughan Fleming 46<::,
M1ch:tcl llowes 46bl: David A. llastilow: I 3tr;
lloh Swdios International: Nigel C.·mlin l5 td,
15tr. -16cr. l\ob Gibbons .308cr: And rew L'lwson:
146. 204br: John Mattock I 15er & insc1: NHPA:
1.aunc Campbell 20cl. R. !>orcnsen & J. O lsen 361~
P HOTOGRAPHtC MOOE.LS
r,rincipal model: Cl.lre Shedd en
Thanks also 10: Peter Anderson, Jim r\rbur):
lk rnard l{oardman, Rosminah Brown, D;:wid Cooke,
Charles l):1y.J 11n England. C laire Gosling. David
I l1dc. Sieve Josfond. Rod Leeds. John Mattock,
Greg Mullins, Nigel Rothwell. Cedli.1 \Vhitdicld,
Rohen \Voodman
DK Publishing would also like 10 1hank:
In the United States. Miles Anderson or Miles· To
Go, TuC$0n ~ in Au<;trnlia. fr.mces Hucchison for
muc h invaJu3hJc advice: in the UK, Bill Heritage
for adv1ct: o n water garden p lanlS: Dr. Rogu
Turner of the Uritish Society o r Plant Breeders Ltd:

320
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