WineSpectator.

com

DOGS OF
Kim Stare Wallace of
Dry Creek Vineyard
With Holly

CALIFORNIA
WINE
COUNTRY
2018 BORDEAUX
CLASSIC ON THE
LEFT BANK
OREGON REDS
TO SAVOR AND CELLAR
LIQUEURS
FOR MORE
FLAVORFUL COCKTAILS
 CONTENTS March 31, 2021 Vol. 45, No. 15

If you have a pet, you will especially enjoy this issue. If you don’t, we hope this story
will inspire you to adopt one. Adding a pet to the family means extra responsibility.
But they repay it many times over with the happiness they bring.

34California winery dogs

COVER STORY Features

34 A (Wine) Dog’s Life Big or small, sleek or fluffy, vineyard
hound or couch puppy—the dogs of California wine country are
special members of winegrowing families. In this story, we
introduce you to the leaders of the pack—the meeters, greeters,
protectors and canine cuddlers who bring smiles at estates across
Napa and Sonoma. Bring them a treat when you next go to visit
• Tim Fish, with Kim Marcus
57 Pet-Friendly Tasting Rooms California wine
country is generally dog-friendly, but at these estates
especially, your dog is a VIP guest • MaryAnn Worobiec
TA S T I N G R E P O R T S
58 Make a Left in Bordeaux The 2018 vintage had weather
challenges that ultimately favored the Cabernet-based reds of the
Left Bank. But the Right Bank’s Merlots are also outstanding, and
the region’s whites are ripe and ready • James Molesworth
68 Time in the Bottle Oregon’s best 2018 Pinot Noirs have
the structure and richness to reward cellaring, while a handful
of Chardonnays keep the flame for whites • Tim Fish
PEOPLE
72 Sommeliers, Frankly Speaking Women in wine talk
about their paths in the industry, their mentors along the way,
and what they expect to see in post-pandemic wine service
• Julie Harans
BRIANA-MARIE
 72Women talk wine 582018 Bordeaux

68Oregon Pinot Noir: What to buy and cellar 21Cocktails with flair

Grapevine Departments
16 Tariffs Staredown The U.S. Trade Representative and 9 This Issue Marvin R. Shanken
E.U. officials continue a tit-for-tat approach to imposing taxes
10 Photo Gallery: Dogs of M. Shanken Communications
on wine and other goods • Mitch Frank
31 Jeffery Lindenmuth My (slightly) winding road to wine
17 News Heitz Cellar principals acquire Napa’s Stony Hill
Vineyard; Gallo and Constellation finalize long-stalled deal 32 Cassia Schifter City Pug steps up

18 Health New study suggests a diet that includes wine and 104 Unfiltered Rare Port fit for a Kingsman; the wine, the
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: DEEPIX STUDIO; SHANNON STURGIS; ANDRÉA JOHNSON

cheese could bolster cognitive health as we age • Taylor McBride witch and the Roadshow • Mitch Frank, with Shawn Zylberberg
and Collin Dreizen
21 Spirits Liqueurs and cordials: mixologists’ secret
ingredients for more flavorful cocktails • Jack Bettridge
25 Wine Auctions Commercial auctions find success with
online formats; Auction Napa Valley will skip 2021 event
28 Savvy Shopper Food-friendly Italian reds, textbook
terroirs from the Southern Hemisphere, Spanish specialties
• Bruce Sanderson

Cover photograph by Dylan James Films

 The Buying Guide
77 Buying Guide Contents
79 Spectator Selections
80 About the Buying Guide
82 New Wines From Around the World

O U R TO P - S C O R I N G
WINE THIS ISSUE
Château Latour Pauillac
2018
99 POINTS, $NA

82Reviews of wines from Australia

Visit WineSpectator.com/033121 to find links to all of the

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 T H I S I S S UE

Man’s Best Friend

Y
ou don’t really understand the true
meaning of “unconditional love”
until you have a pet. For me, that
means a dog.
Dog owners tend to be passionate
and even possessive. Twenty five years ago my love
and devotion went to a Soft-Coated Wheaten Ter-
rier named Cristina. Sadly, she had a rare kidney
disease and died at age eight. In my grief, I swore I
was a one-dog man and never wanted another.
But then along came Lionel, a Miniature Golden-
doodle, who, since the day I met him, has been the
love of my life.
Lionel, now age 6, actually belongs to my daugh-
ter Jessica and her husband, Jay. But my wife, Hazel,
and I sort of adopted the pooch when Jessica and Jay
became parents to our Lionel and Marvin, 2016

grandson, Asher, almost

two years ago. months ago, I had a Zoom meeting with all my editors and let
Hazel is Lionel’s primary them know how important this issue was. I told them, “this
caretaker. But when Hazel could be the best-read issue in the history of Wine Spectator if
isn’t around, I get Lionel’s we give it the attention it deserves.” I know some of them may
full attention! My blood have thought I was crazy, but for those of us who are dog lovers,
pressure is lower when he is we knew it was true!
near. When he sits on my If you have a pet, you will especially enjoy the issue in your
lap, or next to me, I feel hands. If you don’t have a pet, we hope this issue will inspire
that I have died and gone you to consider adopting one.
to heaven. Adding a pet to the family means extra work and responsibil-
Today, as I write this let- ity. But they repay it many times over with the happiness they
ter, is a perfect example. bring. In this cover story you will meet more than a dozen wine
This morning I went to my Cristina and Marvin, 2001 country dogs, and their owners, vintners in Napa and Sonoma
eye doctor. When I got who appreciate the joys of canine companionship and whose
home, slightly depressed from nine months of isolation due to work and play have been enriched by the love of a dog.
COVID restrictions, I also couldn’t see well, due to my pupils
having been dilated for the exam. What to do now?
It was 72° F and partly sunny here in Florida. So I went out- Warm regards,
side with Lionel. I lit one of my favorite cigars, put my legs up,
and Lionel jumped up next to me onto my lounge chair. I en-
joyed the smoke while petting him. My depression melted
away. I closed my eyes, and Lionel and I took a one-hour nap.
About three years ago I suggested “Winery Dogs” as a cover
story for Wine Spectator. The editors did not seem to take it se- Marvin R. Shanken
riously. Last year, I put it on the calendar for 2021. A few Editor and Publisher

MARCH 31, 2021 • WINE SPECTATOR 9

The Extended Family of Wine Spectator
Employees of M. Shanken Communications share photos of their best friends
Key to portraits: Dog’s name (bold); owner’s last name (italic); concluding with breed and dog’s age

Puggsy Bogues Schifter,

Pug, 8

Phil Razzo, Lhasa Apso, 10

Alice Fish, Basset-Beagle mix, 14

Dumpling and Sushi Kotch, Tequila Mott, Belgian Sheep-

Shih-tzu brothers, 5 dog, 3

Nena Halpern,
Ollie McGilvray, Labradoodle, 1 Chihuahua-Dachshund mix, 10 Lucky Rafailov, Bichon Frise, 16

Abby McGinley, Springer Scotty Holly, Terrier mix, 8 Finnegan Kotraba, Golden- Jojo Banaag, Pit Bull mix, 9
Spaniel, 11 doodle, 6
 Spino Dellanzo, Golden
Retriever-Bergamasco mix, 10
Jazzy Anderson, Poo-Shi, 16

Jasper Palacek Driscoll , Georgia Savona, Terrier mix, 3 Bleu Jaikaran, French Bulldog,
Coonhound, 5 6 months

Rosie McGoldrick, English Sydney Arcella, Springer Sherman Romano, Kenny Pappalardo,
Bulldog, 9 Spaniel-Lab mix, 12 Terrier mix, 9 Bichon-Poodle mix, 5

Nemo Udyaver, Montalcino Frank, Pug, Jess Lindenmuth, English Pointer, 14

Miniature Labradoodle, 2 3 months

MARCH 31, 2021 • WINE SPECTATOR 11

Lexie Arshanskaya,
Staffordshire Bull Terrier, 1

Gus Fleming, Wheaten Terrier, 7

Smarty Taylor, Maltese

Yorkie, 16

Clio Van Hook, Lulu Zandi, Goldendoodle, 2 ELIL Morgan, German Short-
Golden Retriever, 6 Haired Pointer, 5

D’Artagnan Marsteller, Cho Miller, Chihuahua, 5 Lucy and Aspen DiChiara, Gold- Teddy Chalson, Maltipoo, 3
Miniature Schnauzer, 13 en Retrievers, 4 mo. / 3 yrs.

Dove and Lily Dore-Sanderson , Chihuahua, 3 / Chihuaha mix, 3.5 Keyo Abrams, Doberman, 6 Bailey (front) and Abby
Senatore, Mutt, 5 / Boxer, 11

MARCH 31, 2021 • WINE SPECTATOR 13

 A Publication of M. Shanken Communications, Inc.

M ARVIN R. S HANKEN • Editor and Publisher

EDITORIAL
Jeffery Lindenmuth Executive Editor
Senior Editors: JAMES MOLESWORTH (Special Projects Director), KIM MARCUS, BRUCE SANDERSON, DANA NIGRO, ALISON NAPJUS (Tasting Director), MARYANN WOROBIEC, TIM FISH
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Associate Tasting Coordinators: CASSIA SCHIFTER, ESZTER BALOGH Assistant Tasting Coordinator: MONIKA MRAKAVOVÁ
Napa Office Manager: ELIZABETH REDMAYNE-TITLEY
Contributing Editors: ROBERT CAMUTO, JACK BETTRIDGE (Spirits), PETER D. MELTZER, SUZANNE MUSTACICH
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 GRAPEVINE N EWS F O OD & TR AVE L PE OP L E COL LE CTI N G

No Tariff Relief in Sight

A
new president has taken
office, but painful tariffs
are not going away any
time soon for many Euro-
pean winemakers and the
American businesses that sell those
wines. On New Year’s Eve, U.S. Trade
Representative Robert Lighthizer
announced additional tariffs, part
of the ongoing fight with the Euro-
pean Union over subsidies to airplane
manufacturers.
When in October 2019 Lighthizer
imposed 25% tariffs on wines from
France, Spain and Germany, he only
applied them to wines below 14% al-
cohol. No longer. As of Jan. 12, French
and German wines at 14% and higher
face 25% duties. (Airplane parts will
continue to face 15% tariffs.)
In November 2020, the E.U. im-
posed $4 billion of its own tariffs on a
wide range of American products, in-
cluding orange juice, ketchup and
tractors, after the World Trade Orga-
BREAKDOWN
de St.-Cosme in Gigondas. “For us,
the financial pain will be hard—45%
of my sales are in the U.S.”
Will a new perspective in the White
House change things? Tariff oppo-
nents are hopeful, but wary.
“Most people believe President
Biden will want to restore relations
with global allies, and a key part of
that is resolving these trade issues,”
said Ben Aneff, president of the U.S.
Wine Trade Alliance (USWTA) and
managing partner at Tribeca Wine
Merchants.
But while the tariffs are scheduled
for review in mid-February, odds are
much of Biden’s trade staff will not be
full steam by then. After that, tariffs
won’t come up for regular review again
until August. In the meantime, busi-
nesses face hard choices: importers,
restaurants and stores can either raise
prices, swallow the additional costs
“The tariffs are bad. or simply stop carrying certain wines,
25% on ALL disappointing their customers.

But the worst thing

2021 TARIFF

French & German

nization ruled that state tax breaks for table wines about [them] is there The timing of the latest tariffs was
Boeing were an unfair subsidy. Light- was no ‘goods on the especially hard, coming over the
hizer did not appreciate the move. 25% on water’ exemption.
That only hurts U.S.
course of the first weeks of this new
“The alleged subsidy to Boeing was Spanish table wines year. Plenty of wine that importers
repealed seven months ago,” Light- below 14% ABV companies.” —Ben Aneff
had already paid wineries for was al-
hizer responded in a statement, sub- ready en route, only to become 25%
sequently escalating tariffs from his own desk. more expensive while in transit. For example, staff at Vintus, a New
Who suffers while this trade war continues? The pain is clear in France. York–based importer, said they expected to pay an additional $540,000
Bottled table wine shipments to the U.S. had recorded 10 consecutive in tariffs on wines they had ordered before the duties were announced.
years of volume growth prior to 2020, according to Impact Databank, “The tariffs are bad,” said Aneff. “But the worst thing is there was
a sister publication of Wine Spectator. But French wine imports fell no ‘goods on the water’ exemption. That only hurts U.S. companies.
37% in the first nine months of 2020, according to the U.S. Com- [The USTR] could have provided an exception for goods in transit. The
merce Department. E.U. provided just such an exception when it passed the Boeing tariffs
Some French winemakers were spared the pain of the first round of on goods.”
tariffs because their wines were 14% ABV or higher. But even they felt Lighthizer failed to provide an exemption when he passed the original
an impact. “A large majority of our wines escaped the first wave of 25% tariffs. It inflicted so much damage on importers that a bipartisan
tariffs. But we did suffer because the trade started to focus away from group of lawmakers proposed a bill to compensate them for the cost, but
EYEEM/GETTY IMAGES

French wines and we were less of a priority,” said Michel Gassier, whose that failed to receive a final vote. Now the USTR has done it again.
Domaine Gassier is in France’s Southern Rhône Valley. “They chose to punish U.S. companies during a pandemic and an
“We can’t compensate with other markets, because COVID-19 makes economic crisis,” said Aneff. “I think it’s borderline reprehensible.”
everything difficult worldwide,” said Louis Barruol, proprietor of Château —Mitch Frank

16 WINE SPECTATOR • MARCH 31, 2021

 N E W S

Heitz Cellar Owner and CEO Buy

Napa Valley’s Stony Hill Vineyard

Gaylon and Lisa Lawrence
WINE SPECTATOR
INSTAGRAM TRAFFIC
SOARS TO TOP 500,000
FOLLOWERS
Half a million people know they can find the
beauty and wonder of the world of wine on
Instagram by following @Wine_Spectator.
Wine Spectator’s Instagram account reached
new heights to close out 2020, hitting the mile-
stone of more than 500,000 followers. More than
100,000 people have signed on in just the past
year. And we’re looking forward to bringing even
Carlton McCoy Jr. more of social media’s most enthusiastic wine lov-
ers along for the ride in 2021.

H
eitz Cellar owner Gaylon Lawrence there as the McCrea family has done since Followers have access to the more than 2,000
Jr. and CEO Carlton McCoy Jr. are the 1950s.” photos and videos posted since our Instagram
not slowing in their quest to acquire
Fred and Eleanor McCrea purchased the inaugural in 2013, including breathtaking vineyard
and preserve some of Napa’s most property as a weekend getaway in 1943, then scenics and cellar shots, exceptional recipes, news
treasured wine estates. Three months after began planting vines in 1948, starting with reports, videos of star winemakers, and advice
purchasing Burgess Cellars, the duo an- Chardonnay, Riesling and Pinot Blanc. A from Wine Spectator editors. Most recently, we’ve
nounced on Dec. 23 the acquisition of Stonyfew years later, they would add Gewürztra- added Instagram Stories and our IGTV “Straight
Hill Vineyard, located in Napa’s Spring miner and Sémillon. Over the past few de- Talk” series of live chats with winemakers, chefs
Mountain District. The purchase price was cades, they introduced Cabernet Sauvignon and celebrity wine lovers such as Danny Meyer,
not disclosed. and Syrah. Though many of the vines have Joe Wagner, José Andrés, Laura Catena, Charles
The sale includes the Stony Hill brand gone through replants, the original Riesling Woodson, Thomas Rivers Brown and Mary J. Blige.
and inventory, winery and 30 acres of vine-vines remain, and some Chardonnay vines
yards. Lawrence and McCoy have appointed are more than 30 years old.
Jaimee Motley as winemaker. The Hall family of Long Meadow Ranch
“We’ve become almost hopelessly nostal- bought a majority stake from the McCreas Gallo Closes Mega-Deal
gic about some of these sites in Napa Val- in 2018, with Fred and Eleanor’s granddaugh- It’s been a long time coming, but E.&J. Gallo closed
ley,” McCoy told Wine Spectator, citing theter Sarah McCrea joining Long Meadow its acquisition of more than 30 wine brands and five
importance of the history and people behindRanch’s executive team, and her father, Pe- wineries from Constellation Brands on Jan. 4. The
final price was approximately $810 million, including
the recent acquisitions. ter, staying on as part of an advisory board.
approximately $560 million in cash paid at closing.
Stony Hill has always been a modest op-
The deal has been in the works for more than
“Wine estates are not brands. eration, producing roughly 5,000 cases per a year, held up as the companies worked with
They are expressions of terroir year, made in an old farm-style building. the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) to tweak the
McCoy said incoming winemaker Motley agreement in order to win approval. The delay had
and the people behind it.” has a deep reverence for the property. left some brands in limbo.
LEFT: BONAFIDE PRODUCTIONS; RIGHT: SARAHBETH MANEY

—Carlton McCoy Jr., Heitz CEO “Her eyes light up when she walks the
WHAT CONSTELLATION GOT:
vineyard; it has been like going to church
Stony Hill was one of the first Napa Val- for her,” he said, noting that one of their
ley wineries built after Prohibition. Co- core values is to find winemakers and care-
$810 million
PART OF WHAT GALLO GOT:
founder Fred McCrea was a mentor for many takers that are passionate about estates.
people, including Joe Heitz. Motley is an up-and-coming winemaker • Arbor Mist • Manischewitz • Taylor
“The McCreas stuck by their ideals of who worked as Pax Mahle’s assistant wine- • Black Box • Mark West • Vendange
• Clos du Bois • Ravenswood • Wild Horse
making structurally balanced wines, even maker beginning in 2015 before starting her
• Estancia
during the bigger is better mentality,” said namesake brand a few years later.
McCoy. “We plan to continue to make wine —Aaron Romano
• Franciscan
• Hogue +5 wineries located in California,
Washington and New York

MARCH 31, 2021 • WINE SPECTATOR 17

Wine & Cheese May Help Bolster Cognitive Health
BY TAYLOR M C BRIDE beer and cider, red wine, white
wine, sparkling wine and liquor.

N
ew research suggests that The data showed a correlation
wine and cheese are not between red wine and cheese con-
only a perfect pairing but sumption and higher performance
could also lower the risk of in FIT tests. “There was a strong,
developing cognitive diseases such clear relationship between eating
as Alzheimer’s. The most common more cheese or drinking more red
form of dementia, Alzheimer’s wine and having a higher fluid in-
leads to the deterioration of brain telligence score over a six- to 10-
functions that affect memory and year period,” principal investigator
the ability to perform daily tasks. Dr. Auriel Willette told Wine Spec-
According to the Alzheimer’s As- tator. This is great news for wine
sociation, over 5 million Ameri- and cheese lovers, as a decline in
cans are affected by the disease. FIT scores is linked to an increased
Diet has long been considered a risk of Alzheimer’s.
marker for our health later in life, “I believe the right food choices
and studies have shown a link be- can prevent the disease and cogni-
tween diet, Alzheimer’s and other tive decline altogether,” said lead
dementias. A recent study con- author Brandon Klinedinst in a
ducted at Iowa State University has statement. “Perhaps the silver bul-
found that consuming more wine What pleases the palate may also keep you sharp.
let we’re looking for is upgrading
and cheese over time could help how we eat. Knowing what that en-
bolster cognitive health as we age. tails contributes to a better understanding of Alzheimer’s and putting this
Analyzing data from the UK Biobank, a biomedical research database, disease in a reverse trajectory.”
the study followed more than 1,700 participants, ages 46 to 77, over the The study did not examine which components in cheese and wine
course of 10 years. Each participant completed an initial assessment were beneficial, and Willette noted that further clinical trials would be
that included questions about their diet and a Fluid Intelligence Test needed to determine if explicitly changing diet could impact brain
(FIT), which measures the ability to quickly use reason and logic to health, but he believes there is promise to their findings. “I was pleas-
solve problems. Two followup assessments were administered to the antly surprised that our results suggest that responsible eating of cheese
same participants between 2006 and 2012. The questionnaires asked and drinking red wine daily are not just good for helping us cope with
participants how often they consumed fruit, vegetables, fish, processed our current COVID-19 pandemic, but perhaps also dealing with an in-
meat, poultry, beef, lamb, pork, cheese, bread, cereal, tea and coffee, creasingly complex world that never seems to slow down.”

U.S. Government O n Dec. 29, 2020, the Departments of Agricul-

ture (USDA) and Health and Human Services
Decides Not to (HHS) released the 2020–2025 U.S. Dietary Guide-
GUIDELINE NOTES
• Americans should limit alco-
lines. While there were some changes, the guide-
Redefine Moderate lines left the federal recommendations on alcohol—
hol intake to 2 drinks or less
per day for men and 1 drink
Wine Drinking that women drink no more than one alcoholic or less per day for women.
beverage per day and men drink no more than
• The guidelines state that
two—unchanged. That ignores the suggestions of the Dietary Guidelines Advisory Committee, which is- even moderate drinking car-
sued a report last July arguing that men should limit themselves to just one drink a day at most. ries health risks but ignore
The Dietary Guidelines are updated every five years. The recommendations on alcohol send an im- possible benefits.
portant message on how Americans should view alcohol consumption. In 1995, the guidelines broke
TOP: LUCY SCHAEFFER; BOTTOM: CHRIS VAN DOLLEWEERD/GETTY IMAGES

new ground when they suggested that alcohol, in moderate amounts, could offer some health benefits.
They have also warned of the dangers of heavy consumption and binge drinking.
But the current advisory committee made no mention of any possible benefits to moderate or low
consumption. Some past members of the committee questioned that approach. Dr. Eric Rimm, who
headed the panel that created the 2010 guideline recommendations, told Wine Spectator that the
science on moderate drinking’s impact had not changed in recent years, so he was not sure why the
committee recommended changing the guidelines.
While the guidelines remain unchanged, the tone of this year’s report was different, focusing com-
pletely on alcohol’s risks, with no mention of possible benefits. That’s despite multiple studies linking
low to moderate consumption with better all-cause mortality rates than abstinence.
—Mitch Frank

18 WINE SPECTATOR • MARCH 31, 2021

 S P I R I T S

Cordials and Liqueurs

Mixing more flavorful cocktails
BY JACK BETTRIDGE

T
he fictional nanny Mary Poppins may have brought musical
fame to the adage “a spoonful of sugar helps the medicine go
down,” but Italian monks deserve much of the credit. In the
13th century, these early distillers and alchemists were creat-
ing plant-based remedies by extracting herbs in spirits. In order to
make them more palatable, they were generously sweetened, and that
balance of natural flavors and sweetener remains a hallmark of cor-
dials and liqueurs today.
While no longer prescribed as medicine, they are popular in both
classic and modern cocktails for bringing a range of flavors to the
mixing glass—not only from herbs, but also fruit, flowers, nuts, co-
coa, coffee and more.
Certain liqueurs are critical for making classic cocktails. Without
the tantalizing complexity of orange liqueur like Cointreau, a sidecar
would be nothing more than a pedestrian Brandy Sour of Cognac
and lemon juice.
Adding diverse liqueurs to your bar increases the types of drinks
you can serve. Since many of them are easily interchanged to create
new recipes, they may invite experimentation in the amateur barman
in you. By switching orange for grapefruit, or banana, or coffee, you
might discover your new favorite cocktails. Of course, they can also
be sipped on their own quite enjoyably.
Such inventive new cocktails are driving renewed interest in li-
queurs. Impact Databank (a sister publication of Wine Spectator) re- Vieux Carre
cently reported a surge in sales, especially among European imports.
Find out why by sampling liqueur cocktails that highlight various VIEUX CARRE Fruity and Floral
flavors, or mixing and matching a few of your favorites. Benedictine The expansion of trade broadened the fla-
1 oz. Cognac
vor palette of distillates, with fruits from
1 oz. rye whiskey
Herbal ½ oz. sweet vermouth the West and East Indies dominating, es-
Medicinal herbal elixirs were among the earliest liqueurs. Carthu- 2 dashes Peychaud’s bitters pecially in the Netherlands.
sian monks first made green Chartreuse in France in 1764. The rec- 2 dashes Angostura bitters Exotics that have ended up in liqueur in-
ipe of 130 botanicals remains unchanged today, despite production Lemon twist for garnish clude lychee, kiwi, banana, passion fruit
interruptions that included the French Revolution. Coat the inside of an Old- and pineapple. But some fruits took little
While myriad plants have made their way into herbal liqueurs, Fashioned glass with roaming to secure. The Brits invented sloe
Benedictine. Add ice with
some have been more prolific than others. Varieties of anise, fennel gin by gathering local sloe berries, or black-
other liquids and stir.
and licorice are the signature Garnish with lemon twist. thorn plums and steeping them in gin and
flavor of Pernod, Ricard, sugar. Similarly, local cherries provided
Marie Brizard Anisette, Cherry Heering and maraschino liqueurs.
Sambuca and ouzo. Mint, ELDERFLOWER Crème de cassis comes from black currants.
ginger and vanilla are other GIN FIZZ Peaches and apricots are at the base of still
2 oz. London dry gin
TOP: SHANNON STURGIS; BOTTOM: MAXIMILIAN CARLO SCHMIDT/STOCKFOOD

mainstays. other liqueurs. More complex is Chambord,

1 oz. fresh lemon juice
One familiar liqueur— which utilizes black and red raspberries as
1 ½ oz. elderflower liqueur
Benedictine—has its own Soda water well as currants and blackberries.
bottled cocktail, blending Lemon twist for garnish Not as sweet are the perfumy, floral li-
the liqueur with brandy to Shake gin, lemon juice and queurs. Giffard of France delivers bouquets
make B&B. Mixologists have elderflower liqueur with ice. of roses and violets among its flower-fla-
often riffed on the same con- Strain over ice into a highball or vored offerings. Galliano includes lavender
cept, for instance with the Collins glass. Top with soda petals for their heady spice. Particularly
water; garnish with lemon.
Bobby Burns, a Scotch drink trendy now is elderflower. Its musky but
with Benedictine. A particu- sweet flavor informed Meghan Markle’s
larly complex in components wedding cake, but it got its biggest boost with bartenders a decade and
example is the Vieux Carre a half ago with the introduction of the instantly popular St. Germain,
Elderflower Gin Fizz
from New Orleans. which at the time earned the sobriquet “bartender’s ketchup.”

MARCH 31, 2021 • WINE SPECTATOR 21

 S P I R I T S

Orange SIDECAR
Another fruit—orange—deserves a 2 oz. Cognac
subcategory of its own for its ubiq- 1 oz. lemon juice
½ oz. triple sec or Curaçao
uity and versatility in creating cock-
Shake all ingredients with ice.
tails. The flavor group can be further
Strain into a sugar-rimmed
divided into two different styles: Cu- cocktail glass.
raçao and triple sec. The former is
sweeter and made with the peels of
Laraha oranges from the Caribbean island of Curaçao.
Triple sec has a French origin. The name signifies relative dryness,
although it is still sweet. It may also be markedly stronger, with leading
brand Cointreau at 80 proof. While Grand Marnier is made in France,
it self-classifies as a Curaçao. The brand is distinguished by its Cognac
base spirit, while others usually use neutral spirits.
Triple sec and Cura-
çao are vital for several
popular cocktails, in-
cluding the Margarita,
Cosmopolitan and
Corpse Reviver. The
Sidecar, with its fine
balance of acidity,
sweetness and Cognac,
as well as a romantic
connection to Paris
and motorcycles, is the
classic.

Honey
Honey was a useful ad-
ditive to sweeten bitter
liqueurs before the
availability of cane
sugar. However, some
liqueurs use it not just Honey Bourbon Lemonade
for its saccharine qual-
ity, but as a key flavor. HONEY BOURBON Sidecar
Drambuie is made LEMONADE
2 oz. honey Bourbon
with Scotch whisky, 4–6 oz. lemonade The most familiar coffee liqueur brands, like the vanilla-flavored Tia
herbs and spices, the 1 sprig fresh mint for garnish Maria and chocolaty Kahlua come ready to drink, and they have been
legend being that Bon- Shake honey Bourbon and lemonade with ice. joined by such products as Patrón XO Café (a tequila drink) and the
nie Prince Charlie, the Strain into a low-ball glass. very herbal Jägermeister. But more essential products like the coffee li-

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: SHAUNA OBERG/SATORI DESIGN FOR LIVING; ISTOCKPHOTO/GETTY IMAGES; EMMA JANZEN
18th century hero of Garnish with mint sprig. queurs from Bols and Giffard can used by mixologists with a more pur-
the Jacobite cause, ist bent. Similarly, some chocolate drinks, like Godiva, come velvety
once owned the recipe. and sweet with candy bar ele-
Similarly, Irish Mist is made with that country’s whiskey as well as such ments like toffee and caramel;
aromatics as heather and clover. It claims a thousand-year legacy. More perfect for a Brandy Alexander
recently American whiskeys have found honey flavor a happy match. or a Mud Slide. But those
Evan Williams, Jack Daniel’s, Jim Beam and Wild Turkey now produce termed crème de cacao are of-
honey variants. While none are botanically multifaceted, they do dis- ten simply spirits infused with
play the natural affinity between honey and oak aged whiskey and have chocolate flavor. They are less
excellent mixing possibilities. sweet and syrupy, and despite
the name contain no cream.
Chocolate and Coffee SelvaRey Chocolate relies on
Until you include chocolate and coffee rum blended and aged in Bour-
tinctures in your liqueur collection, you PINK SQUIRREL bon barrels for five years. Try it
¾ oz. crème de cacao
don’t know beans. These two flavors are with another liqueur, crème de
¾ oz. crème de noyaux
represented to great effect in a range of 1 ½ oz. heavy cream noyaux, which gets it almond
preparations made to be enjoyed on their Shake ingredients with ice. flavor from fruit pits, to make a
own and also help in a number of bar Strain into a cocktail glass. Pink Squirrel, something of an
Pink Squirrel
drinks. Garnish with bitters. adult milkshake.

22 WINE SPECTATOR • JAN. 31 – FEB. 29, 2012

 W I N E A U C T I O N S

Commercial Houses Innovate and Thrive

BY SHAWN Although auctions have
ZYLBERBERG changed in nature, wine prefer-
ences have not. According to the

L
ike most sectors of the wine
industry, auction houses
have been dramatically im-
pacted by the pandemic.
Beginning in March 2020, auction-
eers took most sales online, a move
that largely accelerated a trend of
recent years. And even as live
events quietly resume in cities like
Hong Kong and London, virtual
strategies have become a perma-
nent asset.
“We have a vibrant market with
strong prices—and some records—
during COVID,” said Jamie Ritchie,
worldwide head of Sotheby’s Wine.
“We have younger buyers coming
into the market and our traditional
buyers embrace the digital tools.”
Ritchie says that this remote tran-
sition achieved in just a matter of
months what might otherwise have
taken two to three years.
Christie’s also saw an increase in
international participation as wine
buyers became aware of the ease of
taking part in an online sale run
out of New York. Wine lovers from
over 27 countries, 34% of whom
were first-time buyers, attended the
online sale of the Benjamin Ichi-
nose Collection in July.
Zachys’ Charles Antin taking bids online.
Despite the pandemic, Acker
Wines is on track to have its best
year ever. In 2019, Acker tallied
$91 million in auction sales and,
according to chairman John Ka-
pon, they are projected to see $120
million by the end of 2020, thanks
in part to Burgundian gems.
Acker’s most recent auction, the
“Holy Grail of Burgundy,” which
took place Nov. 19 and 20, real-
ized $13.95 million in sales. High-
lights included six bottles of Do-
maine Leroy Musigny 2002, which
sold for $136,400, and a case of
Armand Rousseau Chambertin-
Clos de Bèze 1991 that fetched
$124,000.
Zachys’ management attributes
some of the new buyers to the pan-
demic, but cautions not to give
that situation all the credit. “Some
of this increase would have hap-
pened anyway,” said Charles An-
tin, head of auction sales and auc-
tioneer at Zachys.
Antin projects that Zachys’ sales
will reach $90 million by year’s
end. That’s down from 2019’s
$121.5 million, but it surpasses the
auction house’s January predic-
tions based on scheduled sales.
auctioneers, Burgundy and Bor-
deaux remain in high demand. Ka-
pon mentions the Rhône’s Jean-
Louis Chave, Piedmont’s Giacomo
Conterno and Napa’s Screaming
Eagle as also highly sought after.
The optimism among auction
houses is also fueled by a confi-
dence in new strategies. According
to Chris Munro, head of Christie’s
wine auctions, they used Zoom for
events and webinars to promote
their Hospices de Beaune sale on
Dec. 13, and are considering using
such webinars for other educa-
tional events.
Kapon says Acker will resume
traditional auctions, but he expects
to conduct more live-streamed
events going forward. And Ritchie
says Sotheby’s will continue to em-
ploy different models of auctions
and has also discussed helping
struggling restaurants by selling
wines from their cellars.
Still, Antin believes in-person
events won’t go away. “[Online]
will never completely replace live
auctions,” he said. “There’s noth-
ing like everyone getting together
in person. But it’s an arrow in our
quiver now.”

Auction Napa Valley Canceled for 2021

F or nearly 40 years Auction Napa Valley featured auctioneers paddling
down lots under a big white tent at Meadowood Resort. But the event will
not be returning in its traditional form when it resumes following the pan-
this,” said Teresa Wall, press spokesperson for the NVV. “We’ll begin brain-
storming with our vintner community in December.”
NVV chairman Robin Baggett told Wine Spectator that a shift has been in
demic. The board of directors of the Napa the works for some time. “As we [real-
Valley Vintners (NVV) trade association, ized] COVID wasn’t going anywhere any-
which oversees the auction, announced time soon, we had to make a call,” he said.
that the 2021 event has been canceled “We’ve been thinking of doing something
amid the COVID-19 pandemic (the 2020 new, and this will give us time to do it.”
TOP: COURTESY ZACHYS; BOTTOM: NAPA VALLEY VINTNERS

auction was canceled for the same rea-
son). Instead, they will spend the year
thinking up a new format for what was
long recognized as the nation’s premier
charity wine auction.
“We have talked about changing the
format of Auction Napa Valley for several
years now. The cancellation due to CO-
VID provided the opportunity to act on
Since the first auction was held in 1981,
Auction Napa Valley has raised more
than $200 million for a variety of Napa
Valley charities, most notably to support
community health services. Funding will
continue in 2021 without an auction, with
money drawn from reserves, according
to Wall.
Napa Valley Wine Auction 1981 —Kim Marcus

MARCH 31, 2021 • WINE SPECTATOR 25

 S A V V Y
Bordeaux Bounty
Although a few excellent values can still be
found from the major appellations of Bor-
deaux, it’s areas such as Fronsac and Haut-
Médoc that are the region’s go-to addresses
for bargains. For Merlot-based blends, look
especially to Fronsac.
CLOS MARSALETTE Pessac-Léognan 2018
(93, $25) Distinctive, fresh; plum, blackberry,
savory bay leaf, apple wood, iron
CHÂTEAU CÔTE DE BALEAU St.-Emilion 2018
(92, $24) Creamed plum, cherry, anise, black
tea, incense, mineral; velvety, detailed
CHÂTEAU DALEM Fronsac 2018 (92, $27)  the lively structure shows fine integration.
Graceful, charming, understated; cassis, bitter
plum, floral, bergamot, mineral
CHÂTEAU FONTENIL Fronsac 2018 (92, $24)  lemon zest, matchstick, lanolin
Black cherry, cassis, mineral, anise; fresh, silky
CHÂTEAU LA VIEILLE CURE Fronsac 2018 (92,
$22) Succulent, focused; plum, cherry, raspberry
coulis, bergamot, red tea, chalky
CLOS FLORIDÈNE Graves 2018 (91, $23) Cherry,
currant, plum, toast, red tea, tobacco, iron; stylish
CHÂTEAU LARRIVAUX Haut-Médoc 2018 (91,
$21) Raspberry, cassis, plum, tobacco; fresh, juicy
CHÂTEAU MOULIN Haut-Laroque Fronsac 2018
(91, $22) Energetic, compact; red currant, black
cherry, singed cedar, floral, chalk
CHÂTEAU CAMBON LA PELOUSE Haut-Médoc
2018 (90, $22) Cassis, black cherry puree,
tobacco, dark tea, cedar; caressing
Made in Italy
From Tuscany and Piedmont
to Veneto and Alto Adige,
this group of Italian reds and
whites is sure to please a range
of palates. Chianti Classico
excelled in 2016, amply
shown by the examples here.
The Tenuta Le Colonne is a
blend of Cabernet Franc, Mer-
lot and Cabernet Sauvignon.
TENUTA BIBBIANO Chianti
Classico Riserva 2016 (95, $30)  Calatayud Las Rocas Viñas Viejas
Intense, energetic; cherry, iron,
earth, tobacco
TENUTA LE COLONNE Bolgheri
2018 (93, $28) Black currant,
plum, olive, cedar; velvety, fresh
CAPRAIA Chianti Classico
Riserva 2016 (92, $26) Struc-
tured, focused; cherry, currant,
floral, mineral, tobacco
CARLO GIACOSA Barbera d’Alba
Superiore Lina 2017 (91, $23)  outstanding wines from among reviews
Black cherry, currant, blueberry,
SAN ALEJANDRO
earth; succulent, light-footed
Garnacha Calatayud
CANTINA ANDRIANO Chardon-
Las Rocas 2017 (90, $14)  Baixas Pazo de Seoane Rosal
nay Alto Adige Somereto 2019
BEST VALUE  Black cherry,
(90, $21) Refined; Asian pear,
currant, savory earth,
pickled ginger, star fruit, spice
mineral; plush, focused
28 WINE SPECTATOR • MARCH 31, 2021
S H O P P E R
GINI Soave Classico 2019 (90, $20) Honeycrisp
apple, pink grapefruit sorbet, lemon thyme, SPECTATOR
ginger, mineral; racy, mouthwatering SELECTIONS
Southern Stars H I GH LY RECOM M EN D E D
This group of wines from the Southern
Hemisphere are not only terrific buys, they 96 AZELIA
Barolo Bricco Fiasco
are all representative of their regions. The
2016 $120 ITALY
three countries showcased here—Chile, Aus-
Scented aromas of rose,
tralia and New Zealand—have proven track cherry, strawberry and
records for fine quality at reasonable prices. currant are the hallmarks
of this elegant red, which
CONCHA Y TORO Carmenère Peumo Marques
is grounded by underlying
de Casa Concha 2018 (91, $22) Ripe, rich; dark
hints of tar and iron, while
plum, currant, blackberry, anise, dried green herbs
TORBRECK Sémillon Barossa Valley Wood-
cutter’s 2019 (91, $20) Succulent, savory;
poached pear, roasted fennel, white pepper,
COL L ECT I BL E
96 CHÂTEAU
VIÑEDOS ERRÁZURIZ OVALLE Cabernet Sauvi-
D’YQUEM
gnon Colchagua Valley Viñedos Marchigüe Santa
Sauternes
Marta Gran Reserva 2019 (90, $20) Plum, dried
2018 $364 FRANCE
blackberry, chocolate, mint; big, concentrated
A beauty from start
ALLAN SCOTT Pinot Noir Marlborough 2019 (89, to finish, with fresh,
$19) Robust, generous; black cherry, cream soda, racy notes of hon-
toasted herb, white pepper, fennel seed, black tea eysuckle, quinine and mirabelle plum, followed
VIÑA MONTES Merlot Colchagua Valley Classic by richer flavors of quince, creamed pear and
Series 2018 (89, $13) Dark plum, black currant, white nectarine. Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc.
loam, dried spice, espresso; ripe, savory
Spanish Revival SMART BUY
This roundup of wines from Spain leads off
93 LINGUA
with a brilliant Rioja. The Ribera, which is FRANCA
100% Tempranillo, is part of Pinot Noir Eola-
the Xavier Flouret Collection, Amity Hills Avni
wines selected by Flouret from 2018 $30 OREGON
various sources around the A lithe red, showing
globe. The Lagar de Fornelos laser focus, this has
relies on a blend of traditional layers of snappy cherry, river stone and savory
grapes: Albariño, Caiño, Lou- dark spice flavors that build tension toward
reiro and Treixadura. fine-grained tannins.
BODEGAS IZADI Rioja Selección
2016 (94, $25) Ripe plum, black-
B E ST VA LUE
berry, toast, loamy earth, mineral;
Powerful, graceful 88 TORMARESCA
Cabernet Sauvignon
SAN ALEJANDRO Garnacha Puglia Nèprica
2018 $12 ITALY
2017 (94, $22) Silky, restrained, Loaded with fragrant
focused; black cherry, licorice, fresh herb notes and
forest floor, spice lively black currant and
BODEGAS SANTA EULALIA  boysenberry fruit, this medium-bodied red is
Ribera del Duero Xavier Flouret fresh and approachable, ending with a zesty
Poinciana Crianza 2016 (92, $22)  finish of black pepper.
Firm, balanced, graceful; currant,
blackberry, espresso, loamy
earth, anise
IN THIS ISSUE’S BUYING GUIDE
MERUM PRIORATI Priorat Inici
You’ll find 69 classic wines and 350
2017 (92, $25) Berry, cherry,
spice, anise, mineral; focused,
of more than 550 new releases. Tasting
lively, energetic
notes and scores for those wines, along
LAGAR DE FORNELOS Rias with hundreds of additional wines
reviewed since our last issue, can be found
2019 (90, $19) Sleek, crisp; lime at WineSpectator.com using the Wine
blossom, mineral, tangerine, spice Ratings search, a members-only service.
—Bruce Sanderson
 J EFFE RY LI ND ENM UTH
How I Found My Joy in Wine
S
ometimes you buy a bottle
of wine without knowing
exactly why. Maybe you
trust the importer, or spot
a good sale. Maybe the la-
bel catches your eye. But more than
20 years ago, I reached for my wallet
because of this very magazine.
It was 1997, and Wine Spectator had
just declared not one but two Wines
of the Year to crown its annual Top
100. As a fairly new subscriber, I did
a double take upon seeing a pair of
1994 Vintage Ports—Fonseca and
Taylor Fladgate—sharing the title,
each rated 100 points on the Wine
Spectator 100-point scale. How could
these wines be so compelling that the
editors felt inspired to name both to
the top honor? I needed to know.
I was 27 years old, and the $400
I spent to secure a mixed case, three As I jettisoned possessions to
bottles of each wine, was nearly a move into a tiny New York
month’s rent. And discovery was
years away, because while Wine
apartment, I stashed my ’94
Spectator promised that they were Ports in a friend’s cellar.
amazing wines, they also encouraged
that they be cellared until at least
2012. I trusted the editors. And I trusted that, eventually, I’d
find occasion to open them.
My interest in wine continued to grow. I soon abandoned my
secure position at a private college in Pennsylvania to take a job
as an editor at a scrappy Internet wine and spirits startup in New
York City. As I jettisoned possessions to move into a tiny one-
bedroom apartment, the Ports were stashed unceremoniously
in a friend’s cellar.
My dreams of dotcom riches were crushed in the 2000 crash.
I found myself 30 years old with a bunch of worthless stock
options, making ends meet as a bartender. Fortunately, I was
more adept at tasting drinks than at mixing them, and I soon
landed a position as a contributing editor on wine and spirits
for the M. Shanken Communications magazine Food Arts, a
prestigious trade publication, which exposed me to a world of
chefs, mixologists and wine.
I continued to visit wine regions and write about wine and
spirits across the M. Shanken magazine family. In 2012, I vis-
PETER GARRITANO
ited Portugal’s Douro Valley, and as my host poured through a
vertical of Taylor Fladgate over dinner, the 1994 appeared in
my glass. I’d forgotten my own bottles. In fact, I had resolved
that their wine-loving caretaker
had likely “misplaced” them during
a celebration in the 15 years that had
passed since I’d deposited them in his
care. But that delicious sip sparked
an interest in my errant wines. By this
time, I was living back in Pennsylva-
nia with my wife and our young fam-
ily, so I paid him a visit. To my friend’s
credit, the bottles were right where I’d
left them.
In 2016, I joined Whisky Advocate
as executive editor, hired by Marvin
R. Shanken, who you already know as
editor and publisher of Wine Spectator.
Whisky was a huge opportunity, and
I relished my years at the magazine.
The spirit has a place in my heart; but
wine always kept its place at my table.
In October of last year, Marvin
phoned me with the surprise of a life-
time. Thomas Matthews, executive
editor of Wine Spectator had decided
to step down from the role after 33
years with the publication. Marvin
offered me the position. Tom will lead
our New York Wine Experience pro-
gram and continue in an advisory role.
For this, I am grateful. We have been working together for the
past three months, and Tom’s experience, knowledge and insight
are unmatched and invaluable.
Like many of you, my 2020 was fraught with personal chal-
lenges and silver linings. My wife was furloughed—but thanks to
that interlude, on Dec. 31, 2020, we spent our first New Year’s
Eve together in 18 years. Midnight also marked the official start
of my next adventure, here at Wine Spectator, where I am hon-
ored to work with Marvin and the other editors who ignited my
own interest in wine. That evening, I prepared the table with
a plate of Stilton, creamy gorgonzola and Mimolette, decanted
a 1994 Fonseca, and my wife and I sipped our way into the New
Year. The pairings were perfect and the wine delivered all that
Wine Spectator had promised.
Buying wine for consumption years or decades from now is
a gamble. Things don’t always go as planned and a few old
wines I’ve opened were disappointments. But I’d encourage
you to consider the advice found in this magazine and bet on a
great wine for the cellar—while also betting on yourself.
Executive editor Jeffery Lindenmuth officially joined Wine Spectator
on Jan. 1 of this year.
MARCH 31, 2021 • WINE SPECTATOR 31
 PUGGSY
Wine and the City Dog
T
he pandemic-driven
shift to pet owners
“working from home”
hasn’t been as easy
on dogs as you might
think. My job as canine companion
has evolved quickly. It started with
simple tasks like snoring loudly while
my owner, Wine Spectator associate
tasting coordinator Cassia Schifter,
worked, and taking her on walks every
two to three hours, but then I came
up with the idea of starring in a video
series called Staying Home with Wine
Spectator. In the videos, mom makes
some sort of fancy drinks called “cock-
tails” that I am not allowed to have,
but I’m pretty sure people watch the
clips just to see me.
Working at home has taught me a
lot, and I quickly realized it was giving
me, and hopefully other dogs like me, Yes, I star in a Spectator
an opportunity to make lemonade out video series, but my main
of lemons, or wine out of grapes if you
will. Human clichés are lost on me.
focus at the New York head-
In this issue you will read about quarters is to secure the wine!
many vineyard dogs and the hard
work they do, but you should also con-
sider the importance and tireless devotion of office dogs like me.
I should admit that I’ve never set paw in a vineyard. It’s true.
The closest I have come is a cornfield, which I wasn’t actually
allowed to enter because I would probably have gotten lost. So,
obviously, I have bushels of respect for the work that all the
vineyard dogs do. Day in and day out, protecting their humans
and their vines—it’s an honorable job.
My admiration of vineyard dogs (not to mention envy of all
the attention they get) is what inspired me to become an offi-
cial office dog. Since most of our homes have become offices
anyway, we might as well make the best of it. While I have so-
lidified my role as manager of our home office, my work doesn’t
end there. I have been very lucky to be able to experience a real
office and, man, is that exhilarating, but also exhausting.
For the health and safety of everyone that works for Wine
Spectator, it has been a bare-bones crew at the New York head-
quarters, so I knew I had to make myself useful. My main focus:
STAYING HOME WITH WINE SPECTATOR
Catch Puggsy and her colleagues in action!
WineSpectator.com/Video
32 WINE SPECTATOR • MARCH 31, 2021
BOGUES
Secure the wine. It was all on me, I
was the only line of defense between
intruders and the wine cellar. Remain-
ing alert, I barked at anyone who made
a peep. When my mom had to go
somewhere carrying bottles, I dutifully
followed to protect the wine, and her
too, I guess.
At first, there was a bit of a learning
curve. I mean, who knew that some-
times if you knock over a wine bottle
it breaks? I certainly didn’t, but I know
I’ll never make that mistake again.
Another lesson I learned the hard
way: Unlike our home office chairs,
the chairs at the big office move. They
move forward, backward and in cir-
cles, making it nearly impossible to
get into a proper sit on them. Luckily,
with my catlike reflexes, I was able to
adapt to their trickery.
The humans at the real office talk
about food all day—from açaí to yuzu,
pretty much all types of fruit, and I’ve
definitely heard them say chocolate.
(I know that word because one time
I ate some and it made my tummy
hurt.) Even though I still haven’t fig-
ured out what shiso leaf is, the biggest mystery is where do they
keep all this food? It has to be somewhere in the office. I sniff
and I sniff, but I’ve never found a trace of any tidbits in the
cellar or tasting room.
And, now that I’m a video star on WineSpectator.com, I’ve
realized a few things that I would be happy to pass on to other
aspiring canine actors. First, if you do a good job, you get a
treat, but if you do a good job and the human messes up, you
have to reshoot, which means more treats. (It’s not even that
hard—all you have to do is distract the human with your cute-
ness!) Lastly, once you’re a star, get an agent that’s not your
owner, unless you want to know how the Kardashians feel.
We don’t know how long this work arrangement will last, or
if things will ever fully go back to the way they were before, but
what I do know is that this is a time for office dogs to shine! I
hope this column inspires other dogs to get to work. Oh, and if
you are a dog reading this and want to become an official office
dog, please let me know: I have some ideas of how we can raise
the minimum treat wage.
The Tasting Department’s Puggsy Bogues and Cassia Schifter have been
with Wine Spectator since 2015.
34 WINE SPECTATOR • MARCH 31, 2021
 W tin e’s
B e s
r i e n ds
F
THE CANINE
COMPANIONS OF
CALIFORNIA WINE
COUNTRY MEET,
GREET AND BRING
CHEER AT WINERIES
LARGE AND
SMALL

D
ogs are always there for us—lifting our spirits, bringing us smiles and
encouraging us to stay active and engaged. Recent studies suggest
that having a dog around can help decrease a person’s stress levels
and even lower the risk of health issues such as high blood pressure.
That’s all no surprise to the California vintners who share their canine
family members and favorite dog tales in this cover story.
“I appreciate the calming influence of a dog,” says Barbara Banke, chair-
man of Jackson Family Wines and owner of three happy-go-lucky ranch
dogs.
Vintner Kathryn Hall says of Rocky, her globe-traveling spaniel: “We
do long for companionship, and when your dog is with you, there’s some-
body there who loves you.”
Likewise for Caymus founder Chuck Wagner and his son Joe Wagner,
owner and winemaker of Copper Cane, dogs are all about companionship,
whether they’re carousing in the vineyards or riding along in the truck,
head out the window. “They seem to pick up on feelings,” Joe says.
In the following pages, you’ll meet more than a dozen dogs that work
and play alongside their winemaker owners and also serve as ambassadors
at top estates in wine country. It’s just a sampling—there are many more
wagging tails waiting to welcome you at tasting room doors—but we hope
this story introduces you to a few that you’ll know by name when they trot
up to greet you on a future visit.
FRANK GUTIERREZ

Joe Wagner of Copper Cane with the

company’s top-dog team of Theo,
Grizzly and Carlos (from left).
BY TIM FISH
 Riley,
Imogene and
Penny
OWNER BARBARA BANKE
Jackson Family Wines

RILEY
BREED Yellow English Labrador
AGE 9
FAVORITE REWARD Loves steak
STAR QUALITY Tolerates the
grandkids
IMOGENE
BREED Labrador Retriever mix
AGE 3
OBSESSION Whatever Riley has
JOB DESCRIPTION Trained
assistance dog for the disabled
PENNY
BREED Mixed, a true mutt
AGE 3
NICKNAME Penny the Pound
Puppy
OBSESSION Whatever Imogene
has
PERSONALITY QUIRK “She
bosses around the bigger dogs
but she gets bossed around by
the cat.”

R iley, Imogene and Penny make quite the entourage for Barbara Banke on
her Alexander Valley wine estate. “I’ve had Labs for maybe 20 years or
so,” Banke says. “They’re always happy to see you and they’re great ranch dogs.”
Dogs were a part of Banke’s life growing up on San Pedro peninsula, near
Los Angeles, where her family counted Beagles and English Bulldogs among
JEFFREY BRAVERMAN

other breeds. “I appreciate the calming influence of dogs,” she says.

Riley, a yellow English Labrador, is the top dog. Banke has a small acreage
of land fenced in around the house to offer some protection from the coyotes
and bobcats that populate the mountains. “I don’t want [my
dogs] roaming too freely,” she explains. But Riley is always
out discovering things, getting dirty and “eating anything
that’s even remotely food.” He also accepts the tugs and
hugs of Banke’s young grandchildren with good nature.
Imogene, a Lab mix, made a run at becoming a guide
dog before Banke adopted her from the Sonoma County
organization. “She was a little too timid to be an official
companion dog, and she’s in the process of forgetting all
her training,” Banke says, laughing.
Then there’s Penny “the pound puppy,” whose person-
ality exceeds her size. “She bosses around the bigger dogs
but she gets bossed around by the cat,” Banke says.
Riley’s favorite food is a good piece of beef, and Imo-
gene and Penny follow his lead. But Riley is also an ad-
venturous omnivore who enjoys chomping on the persim-
mons that fall from Banke’s tree. And although dogs are
not supposed to eat grapes, Riley sneaks a few berries from
the Upper Barn Vineyard when he can. Says Banke, “He
has good taste.”

36 WINE SPECTATOR • MARCH 31, 2021

LAB PARTNERS
Barbara Banke’s dogs
live an active life on the
vintner’s Alexander
Valley ranch.
Cody OWNER DOUG SHAFER
Shafer Vineyards
BREED Golden Retriever
AGE 9
FAVORITE REWARDS Bacon and
ice cubes
ANNOYING HABIT Eats anything;
once ate a large chocolate cake
JOB TITLE Winery greeter
STAR QUALITY Charming and
friendly
FAVORITE ACTIVITY Walking in
the vineyard with Shafer

W hen Doug Shafer’s Golden Re-

triever Cody was 2 years old, he be-
came very sick. Shafer rushed him from
Napa to an emergency veterinarian in
Santa Rosa. As he drove, he kept thinking
about his five children. “I can’t lose an-
other dog,” he told himself. A few years
earlier, the family had lost a cherished
4-year-old Retriever to a heart attack.
For Cody, it was a close call with en-
cephalitis but these days he’s doing fine.
“He’s just been wonderful,” Shafer says.
Cody comes to the winery with Shafer
every day. He’s practically one of the staff
and even has his own business card. “He’s
our greeter,” Shafer says, laughing.
They take a long walk in the vineyard
together every day. Previous pets had free
rein to roam the vineyard, but Shafer wor-
ries what Cody might eat: “He eats every-
thing.” Once he consumed an entire choc-
olate cake while no one was looking. “The
cake was gone so fast and the plate was
licked clean.” The little scoundrel had to
get his stomach pumped because chocolate
is detrimental to dogs.
Doug’s father, John, liked Black Labs and
one, named Dingo, accompanied the fam-
ily back in 1973 as they drove a wood-pan-
eled station wagon across the country to
start a new life in Napa Valley when Doug
was 17.
Dogs, for Shafer, offer companionship
LEFT: ANDY DEMSKY. RIGHT: BRYAN GRAY

and affection. “Cody knows when I’m in

a crappy mood and he’ll leave the room. LET ’EM EAT CAKE?
He doesn’t want to be around me,” Shafer Cody is Shafer’s daily com-
says. “Besides, talking to your dog is a lot panion, but if no one is
looking he’ll indulge in un-
better than talking to yourself.”
attended desserts and more.

38 WINE SPECTATOR • MARCH 31, 2021

 Bailey
OWNER SAMANTHA RUDD
Rudd Estate
BREED Bernese Mountain Dog
AGE 5
OBSESSION Steak night
STAR QUALITY Nonjudgmental
BEGS FORGIVENESS After knocking
over wineglasses with her tail
FAVORITE GETAWAY Family cabin at
Woody Creek, Colo.
BEST BUDS: The family’s two sons
ANNOYING HABIT: Barks like crazy
when she’s excited
IN A WORD: Happy
EMILY DULLA
S amantha Rudd cannot remember a time when she hasn’t had dogs in her life—
specifically Bernese Mountain Dogs. “I’ve always had Bernese. Their disposi-
tion is amazing and they love people. They are goofy and happy, happy dogs.”
The same will be true for Rudd’s young family. Within weeks of getting married
in 2016, she and her husband, Mason Garrity, adopted a Bernese puppy they named
Bailey. Samantha calls Bailey their first baby, who now looks out for the couple’s
two human ones, Rudd and Bear. “They are [Bailey’s] first priority,” she says. “She
barks if they leave the house. She loves them so much.”
In this year of coronavirus and wildfires, Bailey has been important in helping
ground the family. “She’s always having a good day. And especially in a year like
this, it’s great to see her happy and happy to see you, and that you can do no wrong
in her eyes.”
Bailey is not so much a vineyard dog; she prefers to get treats from the staff at
Rudd Estate in Oakville, and also takes refuge in the winery’s aging caves when
the weather is warm. But when the fires struck, Bailey stood guard at the family
home, which is surrounded by vineyards in St. Helena. “The night of the fires, she
wouldn’t come inside. It was interesting to see the animal instinct take over. She
was like, ‘What are you guys still doing here?’ ”
—Kim Marcus
BIG SISTER Baily ar-
rived in the family shortly
before her two human little
brothers, to whom she is
devoted.
 PEANUT BUTTER PUP
Though his owners run a
tasty roadside resto, Levi’s

BRIANA-MARIE
palate runs to simpler joys.

Levi W henever Joel Gott needs Levi’s attention, all he has to do is open a jar of pea-
nut butter. “Labs are big, soft and goofy,” Gott says. “They’re just such nice
creatures.”
Gott and his winemaker wife, Sarah, are known not only for good-value wines
but also the small Northern California chain Gott’s Roadside, a modern, slightly
upscale version of the American roadhouse restaurants of days gone by. With such
OWNER JOEL GOTT a full plate, Gott relishes his downtime with Levi. Trail running is one of their pre-
Joel Gott Wines and Gott’s ferred activities together, a recreation that has helped Levi remain spry even at 11
Roadside years old. “I just like dragging him around with me,” Gott says. “He’s pain-
BREED White Labrador less to take care of and just a lot of fun.”
AGE 11 Dogs have been a constant in Gott’s life, mostly Labradors. “My
parents were hippies, and there were always dogs and lots of pup- According
FAVORITE ACTIVITY Trail to statistics from
running pies around,” he says. Dogs are also a natural for the wine busi- the American Kennel
FAVORITE REWARD Peanut ness, Gott says. It’s rare not to find a dog residing at most win- Club, the Labrador
butter eries in California. Retreiver has been the
most popular breed in
IN A WORD Goofy “Dogs are innocent,” Gott says. “It’s like having a friend that
America for 29 years
doesn’t talk back. They kind of put you in your happy place.” in a row.

40 WINE SPECTATOR • MARCH 31, 2021

Nala N ala is not just any Golden Retriever. She belonged to Bill Foley’s son,
Patrick, who died in 2018. “I brought her home after that happened and
she’s really become part of our family now,” Foley says.
Bred and trained as a bird dog, Nala often hunted ducks and pheasants with
Patrick, but the Foleys found other outlets for her high energy and retrieving
instincts. “She lost her enthusiasm for bird hunting,” Foley says. “But she still
OWNER BILL FOLEY loves the water and just runs into the ocean. We trained her to retrieve balls
Foley Family Wines and Frisbees. She will kind of go crazy looking for the ball.”
Foley, whose company owns wineries including Ferrari-Carano, Chalone
BREED Golden Retriever and Sebastiani, often brings Nala to his office at Chalk Hill Winery near
AGE: 6 Healdsburg. “She’s really fantastic with people,” he says.
FAVORITE TREAT Pup-Peroni Foley has owned many dogs over the years, a few Black Labs but mainly
OBSESSIONS Chasing balls and Frisbees German Shepherds. Quartz was a Shepherd that was especially close to Foley’s
FAVORITE ACTIVITY Swimming in the pool heart, but so is Nala. While not as food crazy as his previous Labs, “Nala is a
or ocean chowhound.”
BAD HABIT No patience for small dogs “Dogs are such great animals,“ Foley concludes. “They’re so loyal and lov-
ing. They’re always sorry to see you go and so happy when you come back.”

NALA’S NEW HOME

The Golden Retriever has
adapted to life with her
“grandparents,” who took
her in after tragedy.

MARCH 31, 2021 • WINE SPECTATOR 41

Siri and OWNER ROBIN LAIL
Lail Vineyards

Foo BREED Bernese Mountain Dog

AGE Both 6 years old
FAVORITE TREAT Almonds
STAR QUALITY Very
FAVORITE HIDEAWAY Under
Lail’s home desk
ANNOYING HABITS Siri is a
licker; Foo steals pillows
affectionate IN A WORD “Brilliant”
BEG FORGIVENESS When they
get on the couch

Siri (above) and Foo (right)

D ogs have been a part of Robin Lail’s life since

her childhood at Napa’s famed Inglenook
winery, where she grew up with her parents’ Great
Danes and a Springer Spaniel named Trooper.
Since 1997, she and her husband, Jon, have had
Bernese Mountain dogs, beginning when fellow
vintner Leslie Rudd gifted her with a puppy.
Today the Lails have two females, Siri and Foo,
whose endearing qualities, says Robin, are their
gentleness and that they are good watchdogs—a
plus in the rural environment where the Lails
live on Howell Mountain east of St. Helena.
“They’re family, and how lucky we are to have
them. There’s something wonderful to pet a
warm, cuddly animal that loves you. I really want
to be like that when I grow up,” Robin smiles.
Siri and Foo have a lot to be thankful for too.
They were in bad shape when the Lails purchased
them from what turned out to be unscrupulous
breeders. “I felt anger toward the previous own-
ers,” Lail explains. “It was shocking. These dogs
looked like they had come from a puppy mill.”
Their calm demeanor was a plus in the recent
fires that hit Napa Valley. The couple’s home is
across the canyon from where the Glass Fire ig-
nited in September of 2020, eventually scorch-
ing 67,000 acres. They got a call from a neighbor
warning them, and they were out the door within
an hour, with Siri and Foo in tow.
“It must have been very confusing for them,
but they were perfect. They made it through in
good shape. I felt so lucky. It was a lot to go CALM & COLLECTED
Robin (above) and Jon
through. You can imagine the amount of fright
Lail’s Bernese Mountain
in my body, and animals pick up on that, but dogs were at their side dur-
ALANNA HALE

they stayed well-behaved and at our side through- ing the Glass Fire of 2020.
out,” Robin recalls. —K.M.

42 WINE SPECTATOR • MARCH 31, 2021

THE EYES HAVE IT
Bruno may someday be
a certified truffle hound,
but for now he’s happy as
Chuck Wagner’s best pal.

Bruno B runo is a Lagotto Romagnolo, an Italian sporting breed originally used

to hunt waterfowl, but in modern times bred to be expert truffle
hunters. The breed has tight curly hair that doesn’t shed and is Saved
practically waterproof. “He loves the water,” says owner Chuck from near
extinction in the
Wagner. “He’s like an Italian man, with almost human eyes.”
1970s, the Lagotto
Bruno hasn’t been trained to find truffles—yet. But that’s a Romagnolo breed is
goal of Wagner’s.“I’d like to get him certified and see what he recognized for its truffle
OWNER can home in on,” says the Napa vintner. hunting skills.
CHUCK WAGNER While Wagner appreciates the prospect of a working dog, he
Caymus Vineyards values Bruno mostly as a companion. It echoes back to his days toil-
BREED Lagotto Romagnolo ing in the vineyards with his late father, Charlie. The two of them con-
AGE 1 structed the original Caymus winery with their own hands and ultimately built Caymus
STAR QUALITY Eyes seem Vineyards into one of Napa Valley’s most prestigious Cabernet Sauvignon producers.
almost human Both father and son liked taking a moment’s break from the hard work to talk to and
DISTINCTIVE TRAIT play with a canine friend.
Curly, waterproof coat Like all dogs, Bruno asks for little in return for his devotion. He does enjoy a good,
FAVORITE POSSESSION sturdy chew toy and has his own toy box. “But currently,” Wagner says, chuckling, “he’s
Chew toys chewing on the doorstop of my office.”

MARCH 31, 2021 • WINE SPECTATOR 43

 Boris
OWNER
CANDACE CAMERON BURE AND VAL BURE
B oris is a 130-pound Rottweiler that
Candace Cameron Bure calls “her
beast,” and who her husband, Val Bure,
Bure Family Wines
BREED Rottweiler ANNOYING HABIT Thinks he’s a
describes as “intimidating on the outside AGE 5 lap dog
but a big teddy bear on the inside.” FAVORITE TREAT Beef marrow FAVORITE ACTIVITY Exploring the
Millennials know actress Candace as bones vineyard
“D.J. Tanner” in the TV comedies Full JOB TITLE Guardian of the house
House and Fuller House; Val is a now-re- WEIGHT 130 lbs.
tired professional hockey player who
starred at teams across the
NHL. Together they own a
small vineyard in Napa and pro-
duce Bure Family wines.
The Bures love Rottweilers,
and Boris is the family’s fifth.
Candace acquired her first at
age 17 as she was preparing to
move out of the family home
and wanted a guard dog. Five
years ago, the couple found Bo-
ris as a puppy through a breeder
in Germany.
“He’s the biggest Rottweiler
we’ve ever had, and he’s all mus-
cle,” Candace says. “He makes
us feel safe and he’s a great
protector.”
Val generally takes Boris on
walks or runs because the dog is
strong enough to pull Candace
down on a leash. “Val is [Boris’]
alpha dog. They go on 20-min-
ute runs and Boris is a lot calmer
the rest of the day,” Candace
says, laughing.
Candace had plenty of pets
growing up—but no dogs, be-
cause her mother and brother
are allergic to them. “I grew up
with boa constrictors and Bur-
mese pythons,” she says.
“Whenever I got to have a
dog in a movie, I was
always so excited.” Rottweilers
have proven
As a child, Val
skillful in many jobs,
had a mutt as a pal. from cattle herding to
“Dogs always give becoming some of the BIG BAD TEDDY BEAR
you that warmth first guide dogs for Boris is a perfect
the blind. combination for the Bures:
MELISSA COULIER

and love,” he says.

A guardian that also likes to
“They just make your cozy up.
day better.”

MARCH 31, 2021 • WINE SPECTATOR 45

Coco
OWNER DAVE PHINNEY
Orin Swift and L’Usine
BREED Boxer
AGE 9
FAVORITE REWARD Milk Bones
PERSONALITY QUIRK Won’t eat
until the cat is finished eating
STAR QUALITY Great with children
ANNOYING HABIT: “She thinks she’s
human.”
FAVORITE ACTIVITY Going for a
walk
46 WINE SPECTATOR • MARCH 31, 2021
D ave Phinney is versatile with wine but when it comes to dogs, he’s all about Box-
ers. “I would not have any other breed,” Phinney says. “They’re great with kids.”
Phinney’s family traveled a lot when he was a child, so he never had a dog, but he
always wanted one. His wife, Kim, owned a Yellow Lab named Timber when they first
met. When he died, it was difficult; as they considered a new dog, they came across
Coco, who was born on the same day Timber died. That sealed the deal.
“I had a buddy growing up who had a Boxer and it was an amazing dog, and Coco
was cute as a button,” Phinney says.
As most Boxer owners will tell you, these big, gangly beasts are convinced they’re
still puppies. “She thinks she’s a lap dog, and she thinks she’s human,” Phinney adds,
echoing a familiar refrain for Boxer lovers. “She’s needy but in a cute way.”
Quirkiness is one of a Boxer’s charms, the way they tilt their heads quizzically as you
talk to them, for example. Running is not Coco’s specialty, Phinney chuckles, and she
also seems to be intimidated by the family cat. “She waits for the cat to finish eating
before she starts.”
BOXERED IN
A puppyish personality is
among the breed’s charms
BRENT MILLER
as a family dog.
 Khan
OWNERS BILL AND
DEBORAH HARLAN
Harlan Estate
BREED Rhodesian Ridgeback
AGE 4
WEIGHT 120 lbs.
STAR QUALITIES Athleticism
and agility
FAVORITE TREAT Any tidbit left
behind by the vineyard crew
BEST BUD Berkeley, his Jack
Russell best friend
ANNOYING HABIT Leaping up
to give an affectionate nose
bump
PERFECT MATCH
The Harlans’ Rhodesian
Ridgeback fits well in wine
AMANDA HARLAN
country: kid-friendly and
coyote-unfriendly.
K han is the fourth Rhodesian Ridgeback the Harlan family has owned. When chil-
dren Will and Amanda were young, they became enamored with the breed when
the family went to an American Kennel Club show in San Francisco. “They had every
breed you could think of,” Deborah Harlan recalls. “The idea was to take a slow walk
around and see what type [the kids] were drawn to.”
But before the family even got inside, they met a Rhodesian Ridgeback breeder with
a few dogs in the parking lot. “The children were captivated. It was difficult to pry them
away. We spent the day reviewing all options, but that first encounter made an indelible
impression. They’re so elegant and graceful, they are a pleasure to watch,” she adds.
A tall, handsome dog, Kahn is typical of the breed, with some eccentricities and an
independent streak. He barks at anyone approaching the house, even family members,
but it’s all show: “Think of a very big dog running at you as fast as he can, only to wel-
come you with lots of licks and jumps of excitement.”
There are practical aspects for the Harlans in owning a Rhodesian. The dogs have
short hair, which cuts down on the stickers and brambles they pick up cavorting on the
hilly property. “They smell sweet and are great with children,” Deborah says. “And they
are big enough to protect themselves from coyotes.”
Kahn’s best pal, Berkeley, is a small Jack Russell Terrier that Kahn almost
comically towers over. When he’s not roaming the vineyards, Kahn en-
joys a ride in the car to the Model Bakery in nearby St. Helena. No
“A dog’s unconditional love and exuberance,” Deborah says, “add strangers to
immeasurable joy to life.” wine country,
Rhodesian Ridgebacks
originated in South
Africa as lion
hunters.
MARCH 31, 2021 • WINE SPECTATOR 47
Theo, Carlos and Grizzly
OWNER JOE WAGNER
Copper Cane
W hen you have six children and three dogs, life is rambunctious, but Joe
Wagner likes it that way. “We’re an active family,” says Wagner. Coming
from one of Napa Valley’s most successful wine families, that must be in the DNA.
Wagner’s three dogs are quite a collection: Theo is a 100-pound Husky mix;
THEO
BREED Husky mix Carlos is an Australian Labradoodle; and little Grizzly is a Bolognese. “Grizzly
AGE: 4 has a major eating problem. He looks like a giant burrito with a head,” Wagner
FAVORITE REWARD Pig ears. “It would says, laughing. While Theo and Carlos often come to the vineyards with Wag-
probably be a rabbit if he could ever ner, Grizzly is a homebody.
catch one.” The trio has the usual doggy quirks. “Grizzly is extremely resourceful in devi-
TOP TRICK Can open doors ous ways. He knows how to break into the pantry,” Wagner says. “And whenever
CARLOS Theo is inside, he takes up the entire couch. Rabbits would probably be Theo’s
BREED Australian Labradoodle favorite treat, if he could ever catch one. And Carlos, he just loves to ride in the
AGE 4 truck.”
FAVORITE ACTIVITY Riding in the truck Growing up on the Caymus Ranch in Rutherford, Wagner was always around
dogs, his dad, Chuck, had five at one point, and Charlie, his grandfather, three.
GRIZZLY
BREED Bolognese Charlie kept dog treats in his pocket as he got older and the pups followed him
AGE 7 around the vineyards and winery.
FORGIVABLE FLAW A “major eating Wagner, whose family labels include Belle Glos, Elouan and Beran, believes
problem” that dogs make life better. “Kids learn responsibility by taking care of them,” he
says. “And you learn to appreciate life more with a dog around.”

LEADERS OF THE PACK

Winemaker Joe Wagner heads
an active family of six children
FRANK GUTIERREZ

and three canines: Carlos,

Grizzly and Theo (from left).

Holly
OWNER
KIM STARE WALLACE
Dry Creek Vineyard
BREED Yellow Labrador
AGE 12
FAVORITE TREAT Dog biscuits
FAVORITE ACTIVITY Getting wet
in Dry Creek
STAR QUALITY Always happy
FAVORITE GETAWAY Escaping
the yard to hang out at Dry Creek
General Store down the road
DYLAN JAMES FILMS
HOME AND AWAY
Holly likes relaxing around
the house, but is also known
for escaping to the nearby
creek or general store.
K im Stare Wallace never considered herself a dog person until Holly came along,
12 years ago. Her dad, Dry Creek founder David Stare, had ranch dogs when
she was growing in Healdsburg, Calif., but they were never allowed in the house.
“Holly is the first dog I ever bonded with,” Wallace says. “When I come home
from work, she’s there smiling. She really smiles. She’s always happy, that’s what I
like about her.”
Holly was originally Kim’s son’s dog, but Wallace gradually inherited her, a familiar
pattern for families with children. Being a Labrador, Holly will eat just about any-
thing, Wallace says, but dog biscuits are her standby snack. She rarely barks, some-
thing Wallace appreciates about her Lab. Holly can be a bit of a sweet scoundrel; one
of her favorite pastimes is escaping the family’s fenced-in yard near the winery.
“We’d joke, ‘Holly’s gone on a walk,’ ” Wallace says. “She’d go AWOL and head
down to Dry Creek to get in the water. Labs are water dogs. She also liked to go to
Dry Creek General Store, and we’d get a call. ‘Holly’s here.’ ”
Her great escapes are rarer now that she’s older and has had health issues. When
in February of 2020, Holly underwent emergency throat surgery, Wallace was
alarmed. She slept with Holly on the couch for three nights to be sure she was
breathing. “I thought I was going to lose her,” Wallace says. “But she’s like a puppy
again. I think she’s on her ninth life.”
MARCH 31, 2021 • WINE SPECTATOR 49
 Share Your Dog
Photos With Us!
We can’t get enough of
these lovable winery dogs. Now
we want our readers to share
photos of their own best friends!
WineSpectator.com/
DogPhotos

THE ODD COUPLE

Jade (left) and Ollie may
seem an unlikely duo, but like
many dogs of different col-
ors, they’ve forged a bond.
 Jade and
Ollie
OWNER MICHAEL AND
SARAH BROWNE
Cirq and Chev

JADE OLLIE
BREED German BREED Corgi
Shepherd AGE 3
AGE 9 FAVORITE REWARD
FAVORITE REWARD Chew toys
Chew toys BEST BUD Jade
BEST BUD Ollie NICKNAME Socks,
JOB TITLE Protector because his paws
of the house look like he’s wearing
STAR QUALITY socks
Outgoing, friendly, STAR QUALITY Says
though a bull in a hello to everyone
china shop

D uffer was Michael Browne’s first dog when he was

growing up. “He was a little white mutt. [He]
would sleep with me every night and he would bite
my legs whenever I moved,” Browne recalls with a
laugh. Nighttime nips aside, Browne has been a dog
person all his life.
Browne, co-founder of Sonoma cult producer Kosta
Browne, and now Cirq and Chev, and also released a
book in November 2020: Pinot Rocks. When he’s home
with his wife, Sarah, and three children, the dogs
never leave his side. “It’s a pack,” Browne says.
Jade, a German Shepherd, doesn’t realize how big
she is. “She’s a sweetheart but she’s a bull in a china
shop. When she’s happy she wags that big tail of hers.”
Ollie could hardly be more different, a low-to-the-
ground Corgi that weighs 30 pounds and also goes by
“Socks” because his paws look like white socks.
The two dogs are quite the odd couple. “They love
to hang out together. Little Ollie will pester and pes-
ter Jade until finally Jade has enough and jumps on
her, and Ollie goes belly up to surrender,” Browne ex-
plains. “Then they’ll sort of kiss each other.”
Both dogs are friendly and enjoy meeting people.
“These days with all the craziness going on, dogs give
WILL BUCQUOY

us unconditional love,” Browne says. “They’re just

there for you.”

MARCH 31, 2021 • WINE SPECTATOR 51

 Tucker
P eter and Maggie Michael have never been
without a dog. “We agreed we couldn’t
marry anyone who disliked dogs,” says Michael,
OWNER PETER MICHAEL
Peter Michael Winery

an Englishman and Sonoma vintner more for-

BREED Black Labrador PERSONALITY QUIRK Always has
mally known as Sir Peter. “Maggie’s idea of Eng- a toy in his mouth
AGE 11
lish heaven is a winter’s day, a book, and a few
FAVORITE TREAT Carrots FAVORITE ACTIVITY Exploring
dogs at her feet curled up in front of a warm fire.” the trails of Knights Valley ranch
The couple, married 58 years, divide their
time between Newberry, England,
and Knights Valley, where Peter
Michael Winery is located. They
keep dogs in both locations. Tucker,
a Black Labrador, rules the ranch in
Sonoma, usually with a toy in his
mouth, sort of his security blanket.
In England, Maggie’s two Black
Labs—Lottie, age 7, and Ziggy,
10—have the run of the manor.
Over the years, the Michaels
tried various breeds before settling
on Black Labs. “There was the
sheep-fearing Border Collie, the
one-man-only German Shepherd,
the barking-mad Irish Setter, and
the miniature Wire-Haired Dachs-
hunds paired with enormous Great
Danes,” Michael recalls. “Over
time, the Black Labrador won the
day as the perfect pet for us in the
English countryside.”
Maggie “always hankered for a
pet” in California, and in
2012 Tucker was
English found at a Labra-
Labs are dor rescue cen-
distinguished from
ter. Much to
their American
cousins by a shorter, Maggie’s cha-
more powerful grin, though,
stature and very
the lumbering,
thick tail.
90-pound Tucker
took a liking to Peter
over her.
“When we are not attending
board meetings, Tucker and I ex-
plore the many trails on the ranch,”
Michael says. “He’s totally promis-
cuous, he will happily sleep with
either me or Herb Westfall, who TUCKED AWAY Peter
runs the ranch, or his son, Jagger.” Michael’s Lab Tucker resides
on his Sonoma property;
Tucker’s counterparts guard
the manor in England.
ADIYL

MARCH 31, 2021 • WINE SPECTATOR 53


Molly
OWNER
CHRIS CARPENTER
Lokoya and Cardinale
BREED Nova Scotia Duck Toller
AGE 7
FAVORITE TREAT Carrots
DISTINCTIVE TRAIT Bark
sounds like a coyote yelping
FAVORITE ACTIVITY Playing in
the water
54 WINE SPECTATOR • MARCH 31, 2021
IF A DUCK STOOD STILL
... But they don’t. This breed
was designed to help flush
out waterfowl, but is also
vigilant in the vineyards.
W hen Molly gets near a vineyard,
she makes a beeline for the reser-
voir. As name of her breed implies, Molly
prefers being wet. “I love to be around
water so that was important to me,” says
Chris Carpenter. “Her happy place is the
vineyard. She gets uber-excited.”
As the winemaker for multiple Jackson
Family wineries—including Lokoya, Car-
dinale, La Jota, Mt. Brave in California
and Hickinbotham in Australia—Car-
penter leads an active life and has no time
for lazy dogs. “They’re very active,” Car-
penter says of the Duck Toller breed. “She
loves to fetch a ball and needs to be exercised constantly or will get into trouble.”
Like many dogs, Molly owes her happy family to some very persistent children. Al-
though Carpenter’s parents never allowed him to have a dog, his own children ulti-
mately won him over. “They were bugging me, and Molly is our first dog as a family,”
he says. The fact that Duck Tollers seldom bark was also a plus. But when Molly does
bark, it sounds like a coyote yelp.
Molly loves carrots but never pays attention to grapes on the vine. Her most distinc-
tive characteristic is called the tolling dance, a technique the breed employs to lure
MATT MORRIS
ducks. Carpenter describes it this way: “They bounce off their back legs, pivoting from
leg to leg.”
 Rocky OWNERS KATHRYN AND CRAIG HALL
Hall Wines
BREED Cavalier King Charles FAVORITE ACTIVITY Playing
Spaniel fetch
AGE 11 NEMESIS Birds. “She’s all
FAVORITE REWARD “Anything about chasing the birds in the
resembling food” vineyard.”
STAR QUALITY Great cuddler
JOB TITLE Frequent flyer,
accompanying Kathryn
wherever she goes

“R ocky is a frequent flyer,” says Kathryn

Hall. “He flies with me all the time. If
you have to travel a lot, [this breed] is the per-
fect dog. They love to be around people and they
love to cuddle.”
Craig Hall was not a dog person, and didn’t
even like wine, when he met Kathryn 30 years
ago. Her family owned a vineyard in California
and made wine, so that conversion went quickly,
but the dog part took a while.
“We had German Shepherds when I was grow-
ing up, and I wanted a dog so badly,” remembers
Kathryn, who craved the sweet companionship
a dog brings.
In addition to being proprietors of Hall and
Walt wineries in Napa Valley, Craig is a Dallas-
based entrepreneur and real estate de-
veloper and Kathryn is a former
attorney and business executive
This
Spaniel breed who served as the United
has four distinct States Ambassador to Aus-
color patterns, each tria from 1997 until 2001.
purportedly aligned
When Craig saw a Cava-
with a specific
noble family. lier King Charles Spaniel at
a friend’s party and remarked
how cute it was, Kathryn saw her
opportunity and spent the next day on the
phone tracking down a puppy. Rocky joined the
family soon after.
The breed are classic lap dogs, but Rocky en-
joys a game of fetch and also does his part around
the vineyard by chasing away hungry birds. “He’s LIFE OF A KING In the
DAVID ORTEGA/HALL WINES

out in the vineyard all the time. He’s all about arms of Kathryn Hall, Rocky
those birds.” But his absolute favorite thing is the Cavalier King Charles
eating. “He’ll go with anyone who has food,” Spaniel is both well-loved
and well-traveled.
Kathryn says, laughing.

MARCH 31, 2021 • WINE SPECTATOR 55


Solomon and Luna
OWNER
LEE HUDSON
Hudson Ranch & Vineyards
BREED Lurcher
AGE Both 11 years old
FAVORITE TREATS Bones;
rabbits if they can catch them
STAR QUALITIES Obedient and
affectionate
JOB TITLE Food thieves
IN A WORD Solomon,
affectionate; Luna, bossy
56 WINE SPECTATOR • MARCH 31, 2021
HUNTERS, NOT
GATHERERS In medi-
eval England, Lurchers were
used to track game. Luna
and Solomon keep the faith.
W hen grapegrower and vintner Lee Hudson needs to patrol his 200 acres of Carne-
ros vineyards, the limited space of his Toyota Yaris doesn’t deter Luna and Sol-
omon. The large beasty-looking dogs eagerly pile into the back seat to accompany the
Texas-born rancher.
“They don’t like water, so I don’t bathe them, and they smell of dog. And I don’t
give them breath [cookies], so they have dog breath. Some people call it bad breath.
I’m unaffected by it,” Hudson says in his no-nonsense way.
Solomon and Luna, brother-and-sister litter mates who Hudson has had since they
were six weeks old, are always by his side as he makes the rounds of his 2,000-acre ranch.
They are Lurchers, a cross between Greyhounds and Irish Wolf Hounds bred by poach-
ers in medieval England to sneak into the royal hunting grounds.
“They are very quiet, very obedient and very affectionate. They are active hunters,
and they are very avid for small game. You would think they would be aggressive, but
only on the hunt. When they’re with me, they’re as docile as could be,” Hudson says.
“I’ve had dogs all my life. My mother and father were dog-friendly people, and it’s
rare that I have so few dogs,” Hudson explains. Of course, if he added any he’d need a
much larger vehicle. He also likes that Lurchers are not a registered breed: “Having a
breed is not as important as having an affectionate dog.”
Besides roaming the vineyards and surrounding landscape with him, Solomon and
Luna are a presence at the Hudson winery. They love having visitors and enjoy the com-
pany of other dogs, Hudson says. But above all, they love to roam. “They have no special
GENTL & HYERS
needs except for running, and like all dogs, they need to sleep a lot. They run hard and
sleep hard.” They may be the perfect dogs for a hard-working farmer. —K.M.
 insect that feeds on grapevines. Honey has since

Pet-Friendly Wineries retired, and now her daughter Dulce is on call.

Honig estate remains faithfully dog-friendly,
with water and treats on hand for canine
Touring Napa and Sonoma With Your Dog visitors.

Mutt Lynch

W
ine regions in California are generally dog-friendly, but it pays to do some Chris Lynch says that dogs are “very much a
homework before heading out with pup in tow. Call ahead to confirm a win- part of the visit” here, with complimentary dog
ery’s pet policies, including weather and seasonal availability (be aware that treats and beds available. When Lynch and his
some local laws may limit dogs to outdoor settings only), and when making a reservation, winemaking wife, Brenda, founded the winery in
be clear that you’d like to bring your dog so the host can ensure proper arrangements. 1995, they decided to lean into their love of
As far as pet etiquette on-site, vintners ask that you respect their approved doggy “re- dogs with the brand name and bottlings, includ-
lief” areas and that you always bring a leash. Keep in mind that dog-friendly wineries will ing “Merlot Over and Play Dead” and “Domaine
often have resident dogs, so consider whether your pooch is happy mingling with others. du Bone.” “We wanted to make a good wine at
Below are eight Napa and Sonoma wineries that are particularly canine compatible. a fair price and create a name, a brand and an
attitude that reflected us.” Over the years, Mutt
Lynch has worked to raise money for local and
national animal rescue organizations.

St. Supéry
This Napa winery has a long history of dog-
friendliness. CEO Emma Swain’s rescue Labra-
dor, “L,” has the title of Chief Cuddle Officer,
while winemaker Michael Scholz’s Boxer, Angus,
or “Gus” for short, can often be spotted in the
vineyards. The winery has hosted winery dog
book signings and Dog Days of Summer events.
They offer canine visitors “an excellent vintage
of water” and a selection of treats.

V. Sattui
”Hold My Wine, I Gotta Pet This Dog” read the
Hall Winery earns a dog lover’s seal of approval. tumblers and T-shirts for sale at the V. Sattui gift
shop. The picnic area at this Napa winery is also

Bouchaine Hall popular with dogs. “Dogs are a part of the fam-

Owners Tatiana and Gerret Copeland support Guests to all of Kathryn and Craig Hall’s tast- ily,” says president Tom Davies. “We’ve always

rescue animals in their home state of Delaware, ing rooms (including sister brands Baca and felt it’s important to include them here.” Over

where there is an animal care center named af- Walt) are encouraged to bring their dogs. A visit the years they’ve held events such as Pamper

ter them (President Joe Biden’s rescued his dog, may include custom dog cookies and water Your Pooch and Dog Days of V. Sattui. These

Major, there.). They also created Reggie’s Fund, bowls as souvenirs. Their annual Harvest days, canines can join their owners in the Under

named after their own beloved rescue dog, to Hounds event has raised tens of thousands of the Oaks Tasting Experience.

help offset the cost of vet medical services for dollars for the Napa Humane society. —MaryAnn Worobiec

pet owners in need. When weather permits, the

couple’s Carneros winery hosts “Happy Tails and
Kunde
Your pup can trot along on one of
Trails Vineyard Dog Walks,” where four-legged
Kunde’s “Dog Hike” experiences through
family members are welcome to take a morning
the Sonoma estate. The demanding four-
hike around the vineyard.
hour trek into the Mayacamas range,

Frenchie Winery at which offers beautiful views and wine ed-

Raymond
Dogs are welcome at all of Jean-Charles Bois-
set’s California properties, but Frenchie Winery is
a dog-themed tasting room within a tasting
room, named after the pup that Boisset gifted his
wife, Gina Gallo. Located among Raymond’s
2-acre Theater of Nature, Frenchie’s pet-friendly
TOP: ERIC RISBERG/AP PHOTO
ucation, concludes with a wine tasting
and lunch. A portion of the fee is donated
to the Dogwood Animal Rescue Project
and Sonoma County Humane Society.
Honig
Dogs are a big part of the Honig story.
In 2017, Yellow lab Honey was added to

furniture and an outdoor kennel area offers a laid- the family as a diabetic alert dog to help
back vibe. “A winery needs to be a destination to monitor daughter Sophia’s Type 1 Diabe-
relax and for people to find their own rhythm,” tes. Honey had a second job as a “sniffer”
says Boisset. “We believe dogs are a part of that.” to detect pheromones of a destructive “L” is the “Chief Cuddle Officer” of St. Supéry.

MARCH 31, 2021 • WINE SPECTATOR 57

A rare snowfall blankets
the wintertime vineyards
of Château Latour, whose
2018 grand vin is the
year's top-rated wine.

Photographs by
Deepix Studio
 Great
Bordeaux surmounts

THE

Escape
an erratic growing
season in 2018 to
deliver an excellent
crop of wines
By James
Molesworth

MARCH
MARCH 31,
31, 2021
2021 • WINE SPECTATOR 59
 A
fter a mildew-plagued spring, the 2018 vintage in Bor-
deaux was rescued by a warm and dry summer. Despite
the challenging season, France’s largest and most
prominent winegrowing region turned out some very
serious wines, particularly on the Left Bank. This is a
vintage worth stocking up on, both for serious collec-
tors and more casual drinkers.
Since my previous report on the region’s finished wines (“The Big
Chill,” March 31, 2020), covering the 2017s in bottle, I have reviewed
nearly 550 wines from Bordeaux’s 2018 vintage via blind tastings. (Due
to the disruptions caused by the pandemic, my tastings were conducted
over several weeks at Wine Spectator’s New York office instead of in Bor-
deaux as usual.) Nearly 10% of the wines I reviewed—53 in total—earned
classic ratings of 95 points or higher, while an additional 240 earned
outstanding ratings of 90-plus.
The best reds in 2018 are marked by ripe, pure and expressive fruit,
along with strident and powerful but integrated tannins. Cabernet Sau-
vignon, the lead grape on the Left Bank, relished the warm and dry con-
ditions that persisted in the second half of the season, while Merlot, the
lead player on the Right Bank, was less successful.
In addition, the dry whites offer rich textures and opulent personali-
ties. They are not the mouthwatering rapiers of vintages such as 2013,
Château Palmer's Thomas Duroux overcame the weather challenges in 2018,
2011 and 2007, but they should make for good early drinking. The sweet which saw his yields shrink to less than 1 ton per acre, to produce one of the
wines of Sauternes and Barsac are plump, forward and direct, but not in finest wines of the vintage, exuding depth and concentration.

the league of the top vintages.

THE WINE DISTRICTS OF Overall, I rate the 2018 vintage for

BORDEAUX reds at 96 points on the Left Bank and

G

FRANCE 94 points on the Right Bank. These are

iro
nd

AREA OF impressive scores, though not quite in

e

DETAIL

the same boat as 2016 (for the Left

Bank), 2015 (for the Right Bank), or
MÉDOC other recent benchmarks such as 2010,
ST.-ESTÈPHE BLAYE LUSSAC 2009 and 2005. Notably, though, the
PAUILLAC CÔTES DE ST.-EMILION
Left Bank is a step ahead of another
ne

BORDEAUX MONTAGNE
ron

ST.-JULIEN ST.-EMILION classic year marked by extreme weather,

La D

CÔTES DE PUISSEGUIN 2003, a sign of the strength in the re-

HAUT- BOURG ST.-EMILION
MÉDOC ST.-GEORGES gion’s top appellations.
LALANDE-DE-
LISTRAC POMEROL POMEROL
ST.-EMILION
The Left Bank certainly struts its stuff
FRONSAC
MOULIS Isle FRANCS in 2018, with the Château Latour Pauil-
CANON- CÔTES DE
G

FRONSAC lac 2018 (99 points, $NA) topping the

ar

BORDEAUX
on
ne

charts across the board. This is a head-

MARGAUX CASTILLON CÔTES
Libourne DE BORDEAUX turner of a wine, with a beautifully ex-
HAUT-
MÉDOC pressive range of violet, warm cassis and
GRAVES St.-Emilion
ST.-EMILION
Bordeaux DE VAYRES Do
rd
black tea aromas that give it a beguiling
og
ne
CADILLAC CÔTES aspect, while the palate courses with
STE.-FOY-
DE BORDEAUX BORDEAUX unyielding precision thanks to graphite
ENTRE-DEUX-MERS girders that stretch from start to finish.
PESSAC- In the end, there’s a tug of earth, a flo-
Bassin LÉOGNAN HAUT-BENAUGE
d’Arcachon
LOUPIAC ral flash and an impressive encore of
GRAVES
ST.-MACAIRE pure fruit. The wine of the vintage, this
Le
Ci
STE.-CROIX-DU-MONT should age easily for three decades.
CÉRONS ro
n
It’s hardly alone, though, among clas-
BARSAC
SAUTERNES sic-scorers. There’s spirited competition
from Latour’s Left Bank colleagues and
fellow first-growths Château Haut-
0 miles 10
Brion Pessac-Léognan 2018 (98, $612),

60 WINE SPECTATOR • MARCH 31, 2021


“MY VINEYARD MANAGER, WHO HAS 40 VINTAGES ON HIS RÉSUMÉ, SAID
HE’D NEVER SEEN MILDEW PRESSURE LIKE HE DID IN ’18.” —Thomas Duroux
Château Margaux Margaux 2018 (98, $570) and Château Mouton-
Rothschild Pauillac 2018 (98, $628). The Château Palmer Mar-
gaux 2018 (98, $388) and Château Pichon Longueville Lalande
Pauillac 2018 (98, $198) are also among the elite Left Bank wines
of the vintage. The lone Right Bank wine to match them is the
Château Pavie St.-Emilion 2018 (98, $365). An additional eight
red wines earned 97 points, all but one of them from the Left Bank.
The Château Palmer may very well be the poster child for the
travails of the 2018 season. Yields were down to a miniscule 0.8
tons per acre at the estate, essentially one cluster per vine.
“My vineyard manager, who has 40 vintages on his résumé, said
he’d never seen mildew pressure like he did in ’18,” says estate
director Thomas Duroux. “The mildew had multiple contamina-
tions over the wet spring, and it was also very late, with the last
one hitting mid-July.”
The resulting wine is remarkably concentrated, practically oozing
fruit, with waves of cassis, plum reduction and warmed cherry pre-
serves, all carried by dense yet polished and seamlessly embedded
With properties on both the Left and Right Banks, Domaines Delon managing director
Pierre Graffeuille sees precise decision-making as the key to success in 2018.
TASTING REPORT | 2018 BORDEAUX
structure. A backdrop of violet, lilac and pastis accents add to the
nearly enveloping feel of this exceptional wine.
T
he 2018 growing season was as extreme as in 2003, but for
different reasons. The 2003 season was marked by a wild
heat wave that stretched through summer, producing wines
with exotic displays of super-ripe fruit. Yet most 2003s now show
an awkward, top-heavy profile, and the vintage is not considered
very strong.
In contrast, 2018 saw an extremely rainy spring that resulted in
unbridled vegetative growth as well as severe mildew pressure, with
the wet weather pattern persisting into July. Mildew spreads rap-
idly, which made this early part of the season particularly harrow-
ing. Managing the vegetative growth of the vines, spraying mildew
treatments and dealing with mildew-infected clusters required ad-
ditional workers and constant vigilance in the vineyards, especially
at larger estates. Producers such as Palmer that work organically or
biodynamically were especially hard-pressed to fight back the waves
of mildew spurred by the near-constant cool and wet conditions.
“The weather got trickier and the mildew pressure was indeed
strong in springtime,” says Pierre Graffeuille, managing director of
Domaines Delon, which includes châteaus Léoville Las Cases, Clos
du Marquis and Potensac on the Left Bank as well as Nénin in
Pomerol. “It was difficult, but we overcame these difficulties, even
though we work using [organic methods]. Our yields at Léoville
Las Cases were within the 10-year average. However, yields are not
necessarily a clue to quality. In 2018, more than many other vin-
tages, they reflect viticultural and vinification choices. This leads
to more heterogeneity across the region. This vintage was defini-
tively one of technical choices.”
Among those technical choices was the need for conscientious
sorting following the onset of mildew.
“With the severe attack of mildew in the spring, when a cluster
gets entirely damaged, it is eliminated and does not affect the qual-
ity,” explains Christian Moueix, whose châteaus Trotanoy, La Fleur-
Pétrus and Bélair-Monange are consistently among the Right Bank’s
top-performing properties. “On the reverse, when a cluster is only
30% to 50% damaged, the berries dry but still stick to the stem and
won’t be entirely eliminated even by optical sorting.”
With the persistent wet weather lasting into summer, some pro-
ducers were concerned that the vintage might be lost entirely. But
then things turned for the better. The rain stopped in the nick of
time, and dry, warm conditions took hold as the skies cleared, with
just a late touch of rain in September that had modest effects. Har-
vest occurred under benign conditions, and after that it was up to
producers to avoid including any berries damaged by mildew. The
result was that yields were up and down from producer to producer,
though the region as a whole brought in a normal-sized crop, a
relief after the frost-ravaged 2017 vintage.
Though the late-season conditions saved the vintage, it’s hard
to argue for a year like 2018 as a true benchmark, considering many
producers at one point thought they might not even make a wine.
MARCH 31, 2021 • WINE SPECTATOR 61
TASTING REPORT | 2018 BORDEAUX

Inconsistent yields put an emphasis on

quality terroir, while the need to bring
in extra hands for the vineyard work
tilted the playing field to the well-
financed players. The result is a year
of great successes juxtaposed with
wines that show slightly austere tan-
nins or herbaceous hints.
“The quality of this vintage is not
really consistent, because of disparities
in the sometimes dramatically little
quantities of fruit to ripen, the end-of-
cycle drought and possible [maturity]
blockages on the most [easily drained]
soils,” says Stéphane Derenoncourt,
the prominent consulting winemaker
who works with dozens of clients in
Bordeaux. “Despite everything, it
remains a good vintage of general
quality, since the maturities have been
acquired. The differences in quality
are stylistic and linked to the quality
of the terroirs that produced either
good or very good wines.”
Derenoncourt’s own Domaine de
l’A Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux 2018
(91, $NA) is a good representative of
the year’s strengths, featuring a very
solid core of plum and black currant
fruit in a sleek and restrained style.

T
he inconsistency noted by
Derenoncourt plays out most
dramatically across the region
when comparing Bordeaux’s two most
important grapes, Cabernet Sauvi-
gnon and Merlot.
“The vegetative cycle is longer for
the Cabernets than for Merlot,” notes
José Sanfins, general director of Châ-
teau Cantenac-Brown in Margaux.
“The Cabernet took the benefit from
better weather conditions in late Sep-
tember more than the Merlot. That is The third-generation of the Perrin family to run Pessac-Léognan estate Château Carbonnieux—Philibert (left), Christine and
why 2018 is a year of Cabernets.” Eric—are producing outstanding reds and whites that are among some of Bordeaux's best values.
One key factor for the Château
Cantenac-Brown Margaux 2018 (94, $66), which matches the es- ideal. I would say [Merlot was] good, but not as good as Cabernet
tate’s beautiful 2015 in quality, was the addition of Cabernet Franc of course.” The Château Lynch Bages Pauillac 2018 (97, $134) is
to the blend. The typical mix is 65% Cabernet Sauvignon with one of the Left Bank’s brightest stars this year.
the rest Merlot, yet in 2018, 3% Cabernet Franc was included, While the thicker-skinned and later-ripening Cabernet Sauvi-
along with 69% Cabernet Sauvignon. The Merlot in the blend, gnon and Cabernet Franc were able to soak up all the warmth and
down to 28%, came only from the estate’s oldest vines. drought to their benefit, terroir played its critical role as well.
“Our Merlot suffered a bit more because of the mildew, reducing Water-retaining soils—typically heavy gravels on the Left Bank
the yields. And some rain fell around the weekend of the Médoc and clay and limestone on the Right Bank—were the favored spots
marathon, just before picking,” says Jean-Charles Cazes, who man- as they maintained enough moisture to nurse the vines through
ages his family-owned estates of Lynch Bages, Haut-Batailley, Ormes the dry period. Vines situated on lighter gravels and sandier soils
de Pez, Cordeillan-Bages and Villa Bel-Air. “Overall, not totally that didn’t retain enough water were at a disadvantage.

62 WINE SPECTATOR • MARCH 31, 2021

 “This wonderful weather we had during summer gave small berries
of Cabernet, concentrated and of excellent ripeness,” says Christine
Perrin, whose family owns Château Carbonnieux in Pessac. “Caber-
net was powerful, fruity and with length.” The Château Carbonnieux
Pessac-Léognan 2018 (94, $45) and Pessac-Léognan White 2018 (94,
$44) are two superb wines that are textbook examples of the vintage.
The red features a cloak of alder and juniper over flavors of steeped
plum, black currant, tar, bramble, loam and sweet bay leaf, while the
white offers a lemon pith note flanking a plump core of lemon curd,
honeysuckle, tarragon, oyster shell and salted butter.
Though the Left Bank is clearly the dominant force in 2018,
driven by the strength of Cabernet Sauvignon, the Right Bank is
no slouch itself. In Pomerol, Merlot situated on clay soils, often but-
tressed with Cabernet Franc, was a recipe for success. The Pétrus
Pomerol 2018 (96, $3,750) is a prime example. This small and highly
collectible estate included a 1% dollop of Cabernet Franc in the
final blend—an unusual addition, but one that’s been done before
when the conditions were right (as in 2010, when 4% was added).
With half of its vines situated on clay soils, the Château Tro-
tanoy Pomerol 2018 (95, $396) winds up sporting a rich and vel-
vety feel to its mix of crushed plum and steeped fig and boysenberry
fruit, while dried anise, tobacco, charcoal and black tea notes curl
around the finish. With notable amounts of Cabernet Franc, the
wines from L’Évangile and La Fleur-Pétrus are also among the top
Pomerols in the vintage.
In neighboring St.-Emilion, a definite style shift is now fully
underway. In recent years, a cluster of top producers, including
Beau-Sejour-Bécot, Canon, Troplong Mondot and others, have
been moving to a style that emphasizes freshness and purity over
extraction, eschewing high levels of new or highly toasty oak. While
I generally applaud the shift, 2018 may not be the vintage best
suited for it. With Merlot not reaching the heights of quality or
consistency it’s capable of, many wines from the appellation
show light herbaceous threads amid their cores of fruit, along with
slightly austere tannins, the likely result of picking early despite
the abbreviated ripening period. Consumers should stick to tried-
and-true producers that benefit from the best terroirs, namely the
limestone plateau around the town and the small swath of heavy
gravel that borders nearby Pomerol.
Along with the high-flying Pavie, the Château Cheval-Blanc
St.-Emilion 2018 (97, $750) helps to set the quality bar, along with
a cluster of wines at 96 points, including Bellevue-Mondotte,
Canon-La Gaffelière, Figeac, La Mondotte, Pavie Macquin and
Pavie-Decesse. Other classic-scoring wines include Beauséjour

R AT I N G B O R D E AU X V I N TAG E S
Left Bank (Médoc, Pessac-Léognan)
2018 96 Extreme conditions early led to severe mildew pressure that reduced yields at some estates, yet dry and warm Hold
weather starting in mid-July saved the vintage. The best reds are dense and tannic, with slightly higher alcohol
and lower acidity, but terrific drive and definition
2017 91 Warm and dry year ran early all season; southern areas most affected by spring frost, while Médoc generally spared. Drink or hold
Well-timed rains prevented maturity blockage, but September diluted earlier-ripening Merlot. Wines are fresh and
pure; best in Pauillac and St.-Julien, other AOCs more heterogeneous
2016 97 A year of extremes, with a very rainy spring backed by a very dry summer. Cabernet relished the drought, yielding Hold
reds that are ripe and tannic, but also racy, fresh and full of aromas; yields normal to above normal. Upper Médoc
superb, with St.-Estèphe, Pauillac and St.-Julien the epicenter of quality
2015 94 Extremely dry growing season saved by rain at veraison led to an even crop of ripe and lush reds. Later rains Hold
hampered some parts of the upper Médoc. Margaux is truly special, St. Julien and Pessac superb

Right Bank (Pomerol, St.-Emilion and Satellites)

2018 94 Rainy first half of season tapered off sooner than the Left Bank, with dry conditions in the second half favoring clay Hold
and limestone soils, yet the wines are more inconsistent overall, with some beautiful examples, but others showing
slightly austere, herbaceous profiles; late-ripening Cabernet Franc a key player
2017 93 Warm, dry growing season, with spring frost hitting low-lying areas of St.-Emilion and satellites particularly hard. Drink or hold
Cloudy July kept wines on the fresh, pure side, with good acidity and modest tannins. St.-Emilion atop the limestone
plateau is excellent, Pomerols are fleshy and forward
2016 94 Same pattern as the Left Bank, with rainy start, dry finish. Clay-based soils weathered the dry period best, limestone Drink or hold
also strong; young vines and Pomerol’s sandy soils the only weak spot, but otherwise a very homogenous vintage
2015 97 Extremely warm and dry growing season favored the Right Bank’s clay and limestone soils. St.-Emilion the Hold
sweet spot, Pomerols are rich and layered. Values abound in Castillon and Fronsac

Barsac & Sauternes

2018 89 Mildew pressure early in the season and a hailstorm midway through curtailed yields severely, and as in 2016 a very Drink or hold
dry second half of the season denuded the potential for waves of botrytis infection during harvest. Wines are ripe,
round and forward, but lack the complexity of top years
2017 91 Spring frost hit Barsac hard, Sauternes less so, reducing yields; dry and warm season led to healthy grapes, with Drink or hold
late-season rains kicking off a very fast botrytis infection as grapes were ripe. Growers had to move fast, most
picking just two or three tries; wines are juicy and forward, with tropical fruit profiles
2016 90 Second half of growing season was extremely dry, affecting botrytis. Grapes were ripe and healthy, but botrytis Drink or hold
arrived late, in only one or two waves, rather than in multiple waves. Wines are fresh and friendly, but without the
complexity of great years; Barsac has a bit more energy than Sauternes
2015 94 Growing season was warm and dry early, cool and wet late. Rains were light, though, and separated by periods of Hold
dry weather, allowing for waves of botrytis growth and leisurely picking. Wines are fresh and pure in style
Notable older vintages: 2010, 2009, 2005, 2003, 2000, 1995, 1990, 1989, 1988, 1986, 1985, 1982, 1970, 1961, 1959, 1953, 1949, 1947, 1929, 1900
A score range indicates preliminary analysis based on barrel samples.
Vintage ratings: 95–100, classic; 90–94, outstanding; 85–89, very good; 80–84, good; 75–79, mediocre; 50–74, not recommended
Drinkability: “NYR” means most of the wines of the vintage are yet to be released; “drink” means most of the wines of the vintage are ready to drink; “hold” means most of the ageworthy wines
have yet to fully mature.

64 WINE SPECTATOR • MARCH 31, 2021


Château Pavie occupies a prime spot on St.-Emilion’s limestone plateau, with over 100 acres of south-facing vineyards that yielded the Right Bank’s highest-scoring wine in 2018.
Duffau-Lagarosse, Bélair-Monange, Canon, Monbousquet, Rochey-
ron, Valandraud and Clos Fourtet.
While triple-digit price tags for the top Bordeaux estates are typi-
cal, there are still plenty of cellar-worthy wines at more manage-
able price points from both the Left and Right Banks. In addition
to the bottlings from Carbonnieux noted above, look for the Châ-
teau Barde-Haut St.-Emilion 2018 (94, $42), Château Fonroque
St.-Emilion 2018 (93, $41), Château Côte de Baleau St.-Emilion
2018 (92, $24), Château de Pez St.-Estèphe 2018 (92, $60) and
Château Fontenil Fronsac 2018 (92, $24), among others.
T
hose who appreciate good Sauvignon Blanc– and Sémil-
lon-based wines should not overlook the region’s dry
whites. The 2018s don’t quite have the zip of fresher years,
but there are some delicious options, including the Clos Marsalette
Pessac-Léognan White 2018 (94, $26), from owner Stephan von
Neipperg of Canon-La Gaffelière fame, and the Château Guiraud
Bordeaux White Le G 2018 (91, $23), which both include some
Sémillon in their blends. Overall, there are 114 dry whites reviewed
in this report, with 51 rated 90-plus.
Bordeaux’s famed sweet wines are solid in 2018, but not dynamic.
The key factor in spurring botrytis is short bursts of late-season rain
FREE ALPHABETICAL LIST
Get scores and prices for nearly 550 wines reviewed
for this report WineSpectator.com/BordeauxAlpha033121
TASTING REPORT | 2018 BORDEAUX
interrupted by several days of sunny and windy weather. These
conditions spur subsequent waves of the noble rot that affects the
skins of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon grapes, resulting in residual
sugar in the wines. This process did not occur in 2018. There was
some botrytis, but as the weather through harvest was dry, it came
mostly in just one or two waves. The wines show plump tropical
fruit profiles, but they lack the complexity and sparkle of vintages
that are built on multiple waves of botrytis-affected fruit. Of the
19 sweet wines in this report, the Château d’Yquem Sauternes (96,
$364) is the top-scoring 2018.
In terms of pricing, there has been a shift in attitude about the
2018s. When they were released en primeur in 2019, prices were on
par with the 2016s, which seemed high at the time. Nonetheless,
négociants said they were able to move considerable inventories, in
part because the 2018s filled a hole in the supply line following the
frost-reduced quantities of 2017. In today’s market, the 2018s have
held their pricing even while the global economy has reeled from
the pandemic. Many of the wines are over 14% alcohol, so they were
exempt from the current U.S. tariffs. Combine that with increased
wine consumption in the U.S. over the past year, and it would seem
the remaining stocks of ’18s will be quickly absorbed.
If you missed the en primeur offering, now may be the last time
to secure the best 2018s while their prices hold steady. It’s an ex-
cellent vintage that should satisfy a range of tastes.
Senior editor James Molesworth is Wine Spectator’s lead taster on the
wines of Bordeaux.
MARCH 31, 2021 • WINE SPECTATOR 65
 James Molesworth’s Recommended
2018 Bordeaux
Nearly 550 wines were reviewed for this report. A free alphabetical list is available at WineSpectator.com/BordeauxAlpha033121.
WineSpectator.com members can access complete reviews for all wines tasted using the online Wine Ratings search.

TOP - SCORING LEFT BANK REDS

WINE SCORE PRICE WINE SCORE PRICE

Château Latour Pauillac 2018 99 $NA Château Cos-d’Estournel St.-Estèphe 2018 96 $207

Château Haut-Brion Pessac-Léognan 2018 98 $612 Château La Mission Haut-Brion Pessac-Léognan 2018 96 $359

Château Margaux Margaux 2018 98 $570 Château Pape Clément Pessac-Léognan 2018 96 $98

Château Mouton-Rothschild Pauillac 2018 98 $628 Château Rauzan-Ségla Margaux 2018 96 $150

Château Palmer Margaux 2018 98 $388 Château Marquis d’Alesme Becker Margaux 2018 95 $51

Château Pichon Longueville Lalande Pauillac 2018 98 $198 Château Beychevelle St.-Julien 2018 95 $93

Château Lafite Rothschild Pauillac 2018 97 $846 Château Calon-Ségur St.-Estèphe 2018 95 $155

Château Léoville Barton St.-Julien 2018 97 $93 Château Giscours Margaux 2018 95 $69

Château Léoville Las Cases St.-Julien 2018 97 $271 Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste Pauillac 2018 95 $87

Château Léoville Poyferré St.-Julien 2018 97 $104 Château Haut-Bailly Pessac-Léognan 2018 95 $127

Château Lynch Bages Pauillac 2018 97 $134 Château Malescot-St.-Exupéry Margaux 2018 95 $63

Château Pichon Baron Pauillac 2018 97 $176 Château Montrose St.-Estèphe 2018 95 $193

Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte Pessac-Léognan 2018 97 $114 Château St.-Pierre St.-Julien 2018 95 $65

Domaine de Chevalier Pessac-Léognan 2018 96 $84 Château Talbot St.-Julien 2018 95 $67

TOP - SCORING RIGHT BANK REDS

WINE SCORE PRICE WINE SCORE PRICE

Château Pavie St.-Emilion 2018 98 $365 Clos Fourtet St.-Emilion 2018 95 $125

Château Cheval-Blanc St.-Emilion 2018 97 $750 Château Monbousquet St.-Emilion 2018 95 $60

Château Bellevue-Mondotte St.-Emilion 2018 96 $145 Château Rocheyron St.-Emilion 2018 95 $108

Château Canon-La Gaffelière St.-Emilion 2018 96 $96 Château Trotanoy Pomerol 2018 95 $396

Château Figeac St.-Emilion 2018 96 $259 Château Valandraud St.-Emilion 2018 95 $170

La Mondotte St.-Emilion 2018 96 $247 Château Barde-Haut St.-Emilion 2018 94 $42

Château Pavie Macquin St.-Emilion 2018 96 $79 Château Beau-Séjour Bécot St.-Emilion 2018 94 $65

Château Pavie-Decesse St.-Emilion 2018 96 $130 Château L’Évangile Pomerol 2018 94 $250

Pétrus Pomerol 2018 96 $3,750 Château de Ferrand St.-Emilion 2018 94 $45

Château Beauséjour Duffau-Lagarosse  95 $142 Château La Fleur-Pétrus Pomerol 2018 94 $252

St.-Emilion 2018
Château La Gaffelière St.-Emilion 2018 94 $76
Château Bélair-Monange St.-Emilion 2018 95 $207
L’If St.-Emilion 2018 94 $190
Château Canon St.-Emilion 2018 95 $160
Château Troplong Mondot St.-Emilion 2018 94 $140

66 WINE SPECTATOR • MARCH 31, 2021

 TASTING REPORT | 2018 BORDEAUX

TOP - SCORING DRY WHITES

WINE SCORE PRICE WINE SCORE PRICE

Château Haut-Brion Pessac-Léognan White 2018 98 $857 Domaine de Chevalier Bordeaux White 93 $66

Clos des Lunes Lune d’Or 2018
Château Margaux Bordeaux Pavillon Blanc 2018 97 $250
Château Climens Bordeaux White Asphodèle 2018 93 $42
Château La Mission Haut-Brion Pessac-Léognan 97 $720
White 2018 Château Cos-d’Estournel Bordeaux White 2018 93 $158

Domaine de Chevalier Pessac-Léognan White 2018 96 $110 Château Coutet Bordeaux White Opalie 2018 93 $41

Château Pape Clément Pessac-Léognan White 2018 96 $168 Château Doisy Daëne Bordeaux White 2018 93 $33

Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte Pessac-Léognan 96 $118 Château Guiraud Bordeaux White Le G 2018 93 $21

White 2018 Château Larrivet Haut-Brion Pessac-Léognan 93 $41
Château d’Yquem Bordeaux White Y 2018 95 $157 White 2018

Château Brown Pessac-Léognan White 2018 94 $NA Château Latour-Martillac Pessac-Léognan White 2018 93 $47

Château Carbonnieux Pessac-Léognan White 2018 94 $44 Château La Louvière Pessac-Léognan White 2018 93 $29

Clos Marsalette Pessac-Léognan White 2018 94 $26 Château Olivier Pessac-Léognan White 2018 93 $33

Château Valandraud Bordeaux White 2018 94 $77 Domaine de la Solitude Pessac-Léognan White 2018 93 $31

Château Cantelys Pessac-Léognan White 2018 93 $NA Château Suduiraut Bordeaux White S de Suduiraut 93 $NA
Vieilles Vignes 2018
Domaine de Chevalier Bordeaux White 93 $22
Clos des Lunes Lune d’Argent 2018

TOP - SCORING BARSAC & SAUTERNES

WINE SCORE PRICE WINE SCORE PRICE

Château d’Yquem Sauternes 2018 96 $364 Château Suduiraut Sauternes 2018 92 $70

Château Doisy Daëne Barsac L’Extravagant 2018 (375ml) 93 $235 Château Coutet Barsac 2018 91 $49

Château Bastor-Lamontagne Sauternes 2018 92 $NA Château Doisy-Védrines Barsac 2018 91 $38

Clos Haut-Peyraguey Sauternes 2018 92 $49 Château de Myrat Barsac 2018 91 $40
Château Doisy Daëne Barsac 2018 92 $49 Château Rieussec Sauternes 2018 91 $58
Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey Sauternes 2018 92 $68 Château Sigalas Rabaud Sauternes 2018 91 $43
Château Raymond-Lafon Sauternes 2018 92 $42

SMART BUYS
WINE SCORE PRICE WINE SCORE PRICE

Clos du Marquis St.-Julien 2018 94 $60 Château Latour-Martillac Pessac-Léognan 2018 93 $44

Château Langoa Barton St.-Julien 2018 94 $57 Château Brown Pessac-Léognan 2018 93 $41

Château Kirwan Margaux 2018 94 $55 Château Fleur Cardinale St.-Emilion 2018 93 $41

Château du Tertre Margaux 2018 94 $50 Château Fonroque St.-Emilion 2018 93 $41
Château Carbonnieux Pessac-Léognan 2018 94 $45 Château Siran Margaux 2018 93 $35
Château Barde-Haut St.-Emilion 2018 94 $42 Clos Marsalette Pessac-Léognan 2018 93 $25

Château Les Grandes Murailles St.-Emilion 2018 93 $60 Château de Pez St.-Estèphe 2018 92 $60
Château d’Armailhac Pauillac 2018 93 $58 Château Larrivet Haut-Brion Pessac-Léognan 2018 92 $45

Château Lagrange St.-Julien 2018 93 $54 Château Laroque St.-Emilion 2018 92 $28

Château Dauzac Margaux 2018 93 $53 Château Côte de Baleau St.-Emilion 2018 92 $24

Château Phélan Ségur St.-Estèphe 2018 93 $53 Château Fontenil Fronsac 2018 92 $24

Château Marquis de Terme Margaux 2018 93 $53 Château St.-Georges-Côte-Pavie St.-Emilion 2018 91 $38

Château Gloria St.-Julien 2018 93 $46 Château Ormes de Pez St.-Estèphe 2018 91 $36

Clos de l’Oratoire St.-Emilion 2018 93 $44

MARCH 31, 2021 • WINE SPECTATOR 67

 OREGON’S

LONG-LIVED
The 2018s are built
for the cellar
BY TIM FISH

P I NOT NOI RS

Nicolas-Jay’s newly built

winery lies on 53 acres in
the Willamette Valley’s
Dundee Hills.

O
regon winemakers are knocking on wood over their good
fortune the past few vintages. There have been close
calls with heat and rain at crucial times during the grow-
ing seasons, but for the most part vintners maneuvered successfully
through the rough patches. The current 2018 vintage is a prime
example. “Summer was crazy dry and crazy hot,” veteran winemaker
Ken Wright told me just after the harvest was finished. And yet,
great wines are now in abundance.
Oregon’s wine industry. Though Pinot Noir dominates the year’s
offerings, there are a number of impressive Chardonnays as well.
The quality of the 2018 Pinots is high across the board—I rate the
vintage 93 points overall on Wine Spectator’s 100-point scale.
I wouldn’t be surprised, however, if the 2018s bloom with time in
the bottle, and I may revisit the rating next year. That’s what hap-
pened with 2017, whose rating I raised from 94 to 95 points, based
on the many high-scorers in this report. It’s a small but significant
ANDRÉA JOHNSON

That’s my conclusion after reviewing more than 425 wines in change, moving the vintage from outstanding to classic status.
blind tastings since my last report (“Reaping the Rewards,” March Intensity is the hallmark of the 2018 Pinot Noirs. These are dark
31, 2020), most of them from Willamette Valley, the heartland of wines with richness and torque, showing an acid-tannin structure

68 WINE SPECTATOR • MARCH 31, 2021

 that can be formidable. Some of the less successful examples are
downright angular. “Yield and pick date were important,” says wine-
maker Josh Bergström. “Oregonians have to dial in the yields. It
really is a fine-tuning process.”
To understand Oregon’s significance in the wine world, consider
our Top 100 Wines of 2020. There were an unprecedented seven
Willamette Valley Pinot Noirs on the list, surpassing even Napa
Cabernet Sauvignon. Leading that pack is the Beaux Frères Pinot
Noir Ribbon Ridge The Beaux Frères Vineyard 2018 (95 points,
$95), a wine of presence and impeccable structure.
Right on the tail of Beaux Frères is Zena Crown Vineyard, whose
Pinot Noir Eola-Amity Hills Conifer 2017 (95, $75) and Pinot
Noir Eola-Amity Hills Slope 2017 (95, $75), crafted by Jackson
Family winemaker Shane Moore, are sleek, well-structured reds
with grace and tension—and it’s only the winery’s fifth vintage.
Many of the usual suspects populate the next tier of wines, which
are a mix of 2017s and 2018s. Bergström had a good year with
two 94-point 2018s, the Pinot Noir Ribbon Ridge Le Pré Du Col
Vineyard 2018 (94, $80), which is nicely structured yet plump and Stoller winemaker Melissa Burr achieved both richness and refinement in her 2018
polished, and the refined and expressive Pinot Noir Chehalem Pinots, an outstanding crop of wines that includes one of the year’s top-scorers.
Mountains Winery Block 2018 (94, $85). Willamette veteran Doug
Tunnell achieved an almost ethereal elegance with his Brick House
Pinot Noir Ribbon Ridge Les Dijonnais 2018 (94, $54). Oregon’s WASHINGTON
Stephen Goff, winemaker at Colene Clemens, brings out the
best from the winery’s 62 acres of distinctive, steeply sloped vine-
Pinot Noir

Columbia River
yards. The Pinot Noir Chehalem Mountains Margo 2017 (94, $38)
is sleek and generous, yet has subtle power simmering underneath.
Heartland
Other impressive 94-pointers include Ken Wright’s vibrant Pinot Tualatin Hills
Noir Yamhill-Carlton Bonnie Jean Vineyard 2017 (94, $63),
Penner-Ash’s supple Pinot Noir Yamhill-Carlton Shea Vineyard Ribbon Ridge Chehalem •PORTLAND
Mountains
2018 (94, $75) and Lingua Franca’s graceful, mineral-laced Pinot
Noir Eola-Amity Hills The Plow 2018 (94, $60). Yamhill-
Melissa Burr and her winemaking team at Stoller crafted the Carlton
NEWBERG
polished Pinot Noir Dundee Hills Nancy’s 2017 (94, $75), while •
at Domaine Drouhin, winemaker Véronique Drouhin-Boss is mak-
McMinnville
MCMINNVILLE
• • Dundee Hills
ing some of her best wines ever, including the Pinot Noir Dundee DAYTON
Hills Laurène 2017 (94, $70) which is beautifully layered, rich and
complex without being showy.
Willamette Valley
Van Duzer
Jay Boberg and Jean-Nicolas Méo of Nicolas-Jay are an offbeat Corridor Eola-Amity
partnership. Boberg is a former music executive who helped dis- Hills
• N
cover R.E.M. and winemaker Méo leads Domaine Méo-Camuzet, SALEM
0 miles 20

one of the top producers in Burgundy’s Vosne-Romanée. After leas-

Willamette River

ing space at Adelsheim and Sokol-Blosser, the partners had their
first crush at their newly finished winery in 2020. If the refined and
complex Nicolas-Jay Pinot Noir Dundee Hills Nysa 2017 (94, $90)
is any indication, the winery’s future looks bright.
Chardonnay continues to take on a greater presence in Oregon
as vintners explore new regions and adjust clonal and rootstock
selections. Bethel Heights winemaker Ben Casteel selects from his
favorite barrel lots to make the plush and vibrant Chardonnay
Eola-Amity Hills Casteel 2017 (92, $75). Rollin Soles, who knows
Oregon Chardonnay better than just about anyone, delivers the
Roco Chardonnay Willamette Valley Gravel Road 2017 (91, $35),
CAROLYN WELLS-KRAMER
Mount Pisgah AREA OF DETAIL
Proposed AVA
Current AVA
OREGON
a delicate white that’s also a good value. Likewise, Brian Marcy of
Big Table Farm offers a well-priced example with the elegant Char-
donnay Willamette Valley The Wild Bee 2018 (91, $28).
There’s plenty of value to be found in Oregon if you’re a smart
shopper. Portlandia’s Pinot Gris Willamette Valley 2019 (89, $18)
is a festive white, while Left Coast’s Pinot Noir Willamette Valley

Cali’s Cuvee 2017 (88, $24) is fun and fruit-forward. The A to Z

FREE ALPHABETICAL LIST Wineworks Pinot Noir Oregon 2017 (87, $22) is tart and perky,
Get scores and prices for more than 425 wines reviewed while the Wine By Joe Chardonnay Willamette Valley 2018 (86,
for this report WineSpectator.com/OregonAlpha033121
$14) is succulent and easygoing.

MARCH 31, 2021 • WINE SPECTATOR 69

Josh Bergström makes a range of site-specific Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays at his Willamette Valley winery, sourced from multiple estate vineyards across the region.

T
he 2018 growing season was uneventful in the early
months. It was a mild, dry winter and a cool early spring.
Budbreak was about a week later than usual, and bloom
progressed smoothly. Willamette Valley is accustomed to the oc-
casional rain shower in the summer and plenty of clouds, but May
through August saw little to no rain and nothing but blue skies.
Temperatures were hot, although cooler than 2016 and 2017.
Going into September the vines were weary from too much sun
and not enough water. As a result, they began shutting down as
ripening stalled. “The vines were thirsty,” Drouhin-Boss recalls.
Just as growers and winemakers began to worry, a half-inch of
rain revived stressed vines. What followed was about two weeks of
cool nights and warm but not blistering days. “We had a glorious
October and Indian summer,” Bergström says. It made for a leisurely
harvest, allowing winemakers to pick on their own schedule. “That
cooling kind of saved us,” says Argyle winemaker Nate Klos-
termann. “If we hadn’t had cooler weather, it might have been off
the charts, ripeness-wise.”
Drouhin-Boss says that the change in weather “helped polish
the tannins.” After the warm, arid summer, the skins were thick
and the tannins “were generous,” as Burr puts it. “The wines are
pretty structured and more intense,” says Moore. “There’s an in-
credible amount of acidity in the 2018s. They’re going to last a
long time.” While generally drinkable now, many of the ’18s would
benefit from additional time in the cellar.
The 2019 growing season was following a similar pattern to 2018,
but that changed as harvest approached and the rain arrived. The
Pacific Northwest received 300% of its normal precipitation in
September alone, and the storms continued into October. Veteran
winemakers are used to rain at harvest, which was the typical
weather pattern in the early 2000s and prior, but this was a lot of
wet, just when the vines needed sunshine. It was pretty much the
opposite of the 2018 crush.
“The 2019s will be more classic Oregon wines,” Moore says. The
consensus among winemakers is that the wines are distinctly floral,
with juicy, fresh acidity and low alcohol levels. “They’re not as
showy as the 2018s,” Burr says. Bergström agrees with that assess-
ment: “They’re definitely not as plush and intense as the 2018s.”
Typically, I would have reviewed a handful

RATING OREGON PINOT NOIR VINTAGES IN WILLAMETTE VALLEY of Pinots from the upcoming vintage by now
and also tasted barrel samples on the ground
2018 93 Mid-September showers revived vines stressed by a warm, Drink or hold in Willamette Valley, but the pandemic has
arid summer, laying the groundwork for excellent wines made both of those challenging. Not only have
2017 95 A cold, rainy spring and hot, dry summer led to potentially Drink or hold vintners been slow to release their 2019s, but
angular wines, but quality is generally high
2016 97 Early and warm vintage with pockets of cool weather in Drink or hold
I had to postpone my annual trek to Oregon.
summer, lending balance and elegance In the coming months, readers should look
2015 95 Large clusters helped to balance a hot vintage toward elegance Drink or hold for updates on the newly arriving 2019 Pinots
2014 96 A very large crop was able to attain balance in a hot vintage Drink or hold at WineSpectator.com. In the meantime,
2013 90 Rain turned a very ripe year into a light, uneven vintage Drink or hold there are many outstanding 2017 and 2018
CAROLYN WELLS-KRAMER

2012 97 Ideal conditions produced generous wines; not over the top Drink Pinot Noirs now on the market, along with
Vintage ratings: 95–100, classic; 90–94, outstanding; 85–89, very good; 80–84, good; 75–79, mediocre; 50–74, not some lovely 2018 and 2019 Chardonnays.
recommended.Drinkability: NYR” means most of the wines of the vintage are yet to be released; “drink” means most of the
wines of the vintage are ready to drink; “hold” means most of the ageworthy wines have yet to fully mature; “past peak” Senior editor Tim Fish is Wine Spectator’s lead
means most of the wines are declining rather than improving.
taster on the wines of Oregon.

70 WINE SPECTATOR • MARCH 31, 2021

 TASTING REPORT | OREGON

Tim Fish’s Recommended Wines From Oregon

More than 425 wines were reviewed for this report. A free alphabetical list is available at WineSpectator.com/OregonAlpha033121.
WineSpectator.com members can access complete reviews for all wines tasted using the online Wine Ratings search.

TOP WINES TOP WINES (continued)

WINE SCORE PRICE WINE SCORE PRICE

BEAUX FRÈRES Pinot Noir Ribbon Ridge 95 $95 STOLLER Pinot Noir Dundee Hills Nancy’s 2017 94 $75
The Beaux Frères Vineyard 2018 Plush and polished, with vibrant raspberry and orange blossom notes
A wine of presence and expression, impeccably structured yet elegant, that lead to elegantly complex blueberry and black tea flavors.
with evocative notes of raspberry, rose petal and brown baking spices.
KEN WRIGHT Pinot Noir Yamhill-Carlton 94 $63
ZENA CROWN VINEYARD Pinot Noir Eola-Amity Hills 95 $75 Bonnie Jean Vineyard 2017
Conifer 2017 Vibrant and detailed, with expressive raspberry and blueberry flavors,
Impressive for its detailed structure and rich polish, this version shows showing hints of sandalwood and tea that build richness.
flavors of raspberry, black tea, sweet anise and forest floor.

ZENA CROWN VINEYARD Pinot Noir Eola-Amity Hills 95 $75 TOP VALUES

Slope 2017 WINE SCORE PRICE
Sleek and agile, yet well-structured, with graceful raspberry, mineral
ROCO Pinot Noir Willamette Valley Gravel Road 2018 91 $25
and spiced tea flavors that build richness and tension.
Tightly focused, this offers polish and structure, with layered raspberry
ALEXANA Pinot Noir Dundee Hills Revana Vineyard 2018 94 $55 and cherry flavors, laced with stony mineral and green tea notes.
This vibrant red is coiled with tension, offering dynamic raspberry and
KEN WRIGHT Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2017 91 $22
blueberry flavors that gather notes of spiced cinnamon and orange oil.
Sleek and elegantly rich, with a vibrant backbone of polished tannins
BEAUX FRÈRES Pinot Noir Ribbon Ridge and bright acidity wrapped in raspberry and orange zest flavors.
The Upper Terrace 2018 94 $110
LANGE Pinot Noir Willamette Valley Classiqué 2018 90 $25
Poised and polished, this opens on a delicate note then builds structure
Sleek and snappy, with vibrant cherry, raspberry and violet flavors
and richness, with vibrant raspberry, cherry and floral tea flavors.
that glide along to the tart, refreshing finish.
BERGSTRÖM Pinot Noir Chehalem Mountains
MONTINORE Pinot Noir Willamette Valley Red Cap 2018 90 $24
Winery Block 2018 94 $85
Plump, with easygoing raspberry and black cherry flavors, accented
A refined red, with pinpoint focus and expressive flavors of blueberry
by brooding cinnamon and orange-tinged tea notes.
and raspberry, accented by black tea, mineral and savory spice.
STOLLER Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2018 90 $20
BRICK HOUSE Pinot Noir Ribbon Ridge Les Dijonnais 2018 94 $54
Supple and elegantly layered, with pretty raspberry, spiced cinnamon
Ethereal and expressively floral, offering multilayered raspberry, rose
and black tea flavors that flesh out on the long finish.
petal and cherry blossom flavors, plus orange peel accents.
BROWNE Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2017 88 $20
COLENE CLEMENS Pinot Noir Chehalem Mountains 94 $30
Brisk and lively, offering notes of tart cherry and rose petal.
Dopp Creek 2018
Defined by a brisk and refreshing minerality that brings focus to the CHEHALEM Chardonnay Willamette Valley 88 $20
refined and expressive raspberry, rose petal and toasty spice flavors. INOX Unoaked 2018
Vivid and snappy, with expressive lime and kiwifruit flavors.
DOMAINE SERENE Pinot Noir Eola-Amity Hills 94 $95
Jerusalem Hill Vineyard 2017 GROUNDED WINE CO. Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 88 $25
Shows polish and structure, with expressive raspberry, toasty spice Landform 2018
and rose petal accents that build tension and richness. Well-knit and compelling, with cherry and orange-tinged tea flavors.
DROUHIN OREGON ROSEROCK Pinot Noir Eola-Amity Hills 94 $65 LEFT COAST Pinot Noir Willamette Valley Cali’s Cuvee 2017 88 $24
Zéphirine 2017 A perky red, featuring fruit-forward raspberry and sassafras flavors.
A dynamic wine, showing grace and structure, this opens like a flower,
revealing notes of raspberry, crushed stone, violet and savory tea. MAISON L’ENVOYÉ Chardonnay Willamette Valley 88 $17
Straight Shooter 2018
LINGUA FRANCA Pinot Noir Eola-Amity Hills The Plow 2018 94 $60 Fresh and easygoing, with apple and lemon flavors.
Graceful in its complexity and elegantly expressive, this offers lithe
raspberry and cherry flavors laced with crushed stone and black tea. PIKE ROAD Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2018 88 $20
This fruit-forward version offers notes of cherry and toasty spice.
MAGGY HAWK Pinot Noir Dundee Hills 94 $65
Jory Hills Vineyard 2018 REAL NICE WINEMAKERS Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 88 $22
Opening with a silky texture, this offers an intense beam of loamy Black Magnolia 2018
acidity and savory tannins, with cherry and basil blossom accents. User-friendly and juicy, with plump raspberry and orange peel flavors.

NICOLAS-JAY Pinot Noir Dundee Hills Nysa 2017 94 $90 SOKOL BLOSSER Pinot Noir Willamette Valley Evolution 2018 88 $20
Nicely structured and refined, with complex black raspberry, orange- Generous and easygoing, with bright, juicy cherry and spice flavors.
tinged tea and cardamom flavors that build richness and intensity. CHEMISTRY Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2018 87 $19
PENNER-ASH Pinot Noir Yamhill-Carlton Shea Vineyard 2018 94 $75 Up-front and snappy, offering notes of boysenberry and tarragon.
Refined and structured, this is enveloped in supple, layered cherry and PLANET OREGON Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2018 87 $22
raspberry flavors that pull in orange blossom and spiced tea accents. Juicy and easygoing, with cherry and toasty spice flavors.

MARCH 31, 2021 • WINE SPECTATOR 71

 BY JULIE HARANS

WOMEN G
ender inequality is an issue in many in-
dustries, and the world of wine service
has been no exception. Even as estab-
lished professionals, today’s female som-

SOMMELIERS
meliers often navigate career obstacles
related to their gender. In a field populated pre-
dominantly by men, the imbalance can feel magni-
fied—advancement is often relationship-based and
mentorships can be key to gaining knowledge and

POWER
accessing opportunities to taste the world-class
wines essential to a sommelier’s education.
There is movement, however: Growing com-
munities of women in wine are supporting one an-
other, more women are entering the industry, and
standout individuals who’ve proved the power of

THE PROFESSION’S
perseverance are leading the way for the next
generation.
The wine pros in this story, many of them guid-

FUTURE
ing Wine Spectator award-winning wine programs,
offer an inside look at what it’s like to be a woman
carving a place in the hospitality industry; plus,
their thoughts on what’s next for post-pandemic
wine service as a whole.

SHANNON O’HARA

Julie Dalton (left)

72 WINE SPECTATOR • MARCH 31, 2021

 What first drew you to the world of wine
and how did you get started in the industry?
Katie Tiffany | General manager and wine director, the
Hearthstone Restaurant, Breckenridge, Colo. | > || I must
have spent the first 10 years of my career utterly intimidated by
wine. It was not until I embraced the old adage, “The more you
know, the less you know,” that I started my quest for wine
knowledge. I often equate studying wine to golf, or skiing in
the bumps; there is something about it that is so challenging
and humbling, interwoven with tiny moments of success, that it
really sparked my interest.

Mariarosa Tartaglione | Wine director, Ai Fiori, New

York | >>> || I grew up in the countryside of a tiny medieval
village in Molise, between Rome and Naples. All my relatives
were farmers. Preserving the strong heritage from centuries of
history, they knew how to take advantage of the flourishing
land, growing all sorts of vegetables and fruit. And of course,
June Rodil
wine. I loved drinking wine, tasting wine while mentally travel-
ing through the vineyards and learning the history behind it. So
when I found myself working in restaurants for survival, I de-
cided to take my infatuation seriously.
Amanda Haugen | Wine director and co-owner, Southside Bistro,
Anchorage, Alaska | > || I had just moved back to Alaska and needed a job.
I was lucky enough to work at a restaurant that had already won several Wine
Spectator awards, so I was surrounded by wine and became fascinated in all
the different types, never mind just red and white. I really wanted to know
why a Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand tastes so different than one from
Napa or Sancerre, and once you start looking into that, it just snowballs.
June Rodil | Partner, Goodnight Hospitality, Texas | > || I was a server
in the fine-dining room at a historic hotel in Austin while getting my under-
grad [degree] at University of Texas. I loved the guests who were adventur-
ous and ordered the tasting menu and wine pairings and thought that it
was so cool that they trusted me to guide their experience. I remember sav-
ing my pennies and coming in to get the tasting menu with pairings for my
birthday, and I was hooked.
How did being a woman affect your entry into and
progress through the wine world?
Kelsey Wonsavage | Former wine director
for Sava’s and Aventura, Ann Arbor, Mich. | > ||
Finding non-creepy mentorship is so difficult. Even
for the [Court of Master Sommeliers process], it
was very demeaning. I remember riding up in the
elevator during the Advanced course and there
were guys talking in the elevator, and they were
like, “I heard there’s a 23-year-old here, how the
hell did they get in here?” I turned to them and
[said], “Hey, I’m that 23-year-old and I got in here
TOP: TAYLOR HIGGINS; BOTTOM: MATT HARRINGTON
and interrupted. There was an added stress of giving mental energy won-
dering if these slights were gender related or just because I was a newbie
to the wine industry. Even if people weren’t second-guessing me, I was
second-guessing myself. It took a long time to feel confident and grow
into the role; [colleague] Patrick Cournot and industry peers really helped
with that.
Katie Tiffany | The Hearthstone Restaurant || I think I shared the
same hurdles that women in leadership positions in all types of industries
share: The look of shock and disappointment when a displeased guest asks
to speak to your boss or managers, and you stand up a little taller and say,
“I am the boss … buddy.” However, I know the determination that I have be-
cause I am a woman has helped me tremendously.
Amanda Fraga | Beverage director, Genuine Hospitality Group,
Miami | > || Immediately, I noticed that the wine profession was male-dom-
inated. It created an atmosphere for me in which I had to work twice as
hard. This was incredibly difficult starting out, but as I’ve progressed
through my career, I’ve made it a point to showcase female talent.
June Rodil | Goodnight Hospitality || I’m a
partner in five establishments, and some guests
still think I’m the host(ess) when I’m the first per-
son they see when they walk in. Though I have a fi-
ery side that makes me want to shake my fists at
them, being in the hospitality industry taught me
to be patient, intuitive, and not jump to
conclusions.
Have you faced obstacles in your
career that you would attribute

the same way you did.” I think it was definitely age
and gender; people just thought I was cute and
that I wasn’t taking it seriously, but I was.
Alexis Percival | Partner and co–beverage
director, Ruffian and Kindred, New York ||  cern that I could not physically handle the de-
I experienced the usual dismissals of wine reps
assuming I was not the buyer, being spoken over
specifically to gender?
Shelley Lindgren | Co-owner and wine
director, A16 and A16 Rockridge, San Francisco
and Oakland, Calif. | >> || When I applied for my
first sommelier position, I was told there was con-
mands of the position with the cases of wine that
Kelsey Wonsavage needed to be put away. About a week later, I was

WINE SPECTATOR RESTAURANT AWARD LEVELS

MARCH 31, 2021 • WINE SPECTATOR 73
>>> Grand Award>> Best of Award of Excellence> Award of Excellence
offered the sommelier position at Bacar—
which had 50 wines by the glass and three
floors of stairs. Some days, I would arrive
to 100 cases of wine deliveries and have it
all put away before service began. Back
then, I think I even did it wearing heels.
Alexis Percival | Ruffian and
Kindred || Guests don’t seem to respect
women’s personal boundaries in the same
way as they would a man’s. One night I
had a male guest opening his arms for a
hug in a narrow bar space. To refuse would
cause a scene; to do it felt really uncom-
fortable. In truth, he should have been
made to feel uncomfortable as it was inap-
propriate, but as females in hospitality we
are expected to spare people’s feelings
above our own. These stressors add up.
Your job is to be hospitable, and some-
times it’s at the expense of your privacy
and comfort. I’m older now and don’t tol-
erate those intrusions. It’s certainly easier
being an owner.
Kelsey Wonsavage || There defi- Cassie Sakai
nitely were other obstacles with not being
taken seriously. This was less than a year
ago: There was a table of businessmen, and they asked for the somm. So I
go to the table, and this gentleman literally looked at me and said, “Wait,
you’re the somm? No you’re not, you’re a young girl.” So I just looked at him
with a smile and [said], “Well, this young girl is your somm, and being a
woman has nothing to do with my education or palate.”
Mariarosa Tartaglione | Ai Fiori || I notice very frequently that
guests are more focused on my appearance versus my refined recommen-
dation, or asking me if I’m married while I’m pouring their wine. That makes
me furious, and the more experience I had, the more I learned how to deal
with it. I learned how to react, how to gain respect and subtly teach them
how I wanted to be treated. I feel like I’m winning when I can turn that
wrong approach into a growing moment for me and the other person.
Victoria O’Bryan | Wine director, Addison, San Diego | >>> ||
The few times I came across a situation in which my gender was somehow a
hindrance, I walked away and found another path forward.
Are there any advantages to being a woman in the
wine world?
Mandy Sparacino | Wine director, Del Frisco’s Double Eagle Steak
House, Los Angeles | >> || I don’t think there are advantages to
being a woman in the wine world, but I do think there are advantages to
being empathetic and intuitive, especially on the floor. One needs to not
only hear what a guest is saying, but truly understand what it is they are
asking for in-between the lines. I also believe that nurturing that guest rela-
tionship builds trust, and I think a lot of women have a natural ability to do
that, at least it seems so.
Katie Tiffany | The Hearthstone Restaurant || Yes, working relation-
ships! I was able to build many strong working relationships with female
wine purveyors in which we would do anything to help the other succeed.
74 WINE SPECTATOR • MARCH 31, 2021
Jessica Garcia | Wine director,
El Meson, Houston | >> || Women are a
force. When they come together, things
get done effectively and with style. Soci-
ety has shaped us to be sensitive to oth-
ers’ desires and interests, and has de-
manded that we be very good listeners.
While once upon a time, this would have
had us quiet and subservient, now it
seems these traits work to our benefit,
making us smarter and excellent
salespeople.
Amanda Haugen | Southside Bistro ||
I think the biggest advantage is that as a
woman, you stand out. Which can be both
a blessing and a curse, but in an industry
where who you know and what you’ve ex-
perienced can really help, being more
memorable can be an advantage.
Julie Dalton | Sommelier, Mastro’s
Steakhouse at the Post Oak Hotel,
Houston | >>> || I really have never
looked at my journey in wine specifically
as it pertains to my gender. They say we
have more sensitive palates and maybe
we do, but I honestly just think of myself
as a wine professional.
Amanda Fraga | the Genuine Hospitality Group || Now that I’ve built
a career within the industry as a woman, I can use my experience to help
promote other women who may have the talent but lack the opportunity.
Did you have female mentors? How did they help?
Kim Akhtar | Wine director, Le Coucou and Veronika, New York | >>
María José Huertas, the head sommelier at La Terraza [in Madrid], was un-
compromising when it came to service and behavior on the floor. She
taught me how to read a table and how to approach it elegantly, discreetly,
but with warmth and kindness that puts people at ease. After all, it’s easy to
be intimidated by a 100-page wine list! And Anne-Claude Leflaive of Do-
maine Leflaive, who taught me that wine is meant to be enjoyed.
Cassie Sakai | Wine director, Girl & the Goat, Chicago | > || I was re-
ally lucky in the fact that I first got into wine under a female Master Sommelier,
Alpana Singh. Once I eventually branched out to a different group, I worked
(and currently work) for Stephanie Izard, an incredible trailblazer herself. I was
definitely encouraged and my love of wine was fostered. I was the first female
wine director in almost a decade within our group, and I was certainly also the
youngest. My chef and the other female mentors in my life gave me the confi-
dence and advice needed to navigate the Chicago wine scene.
Alexis Percival | Ruffian and Kindred || I have worked primarily for
men up until this point. However, my aunt, Leah Reynolds, owned and oper-
ated several bars in Providence, Rhode Island. I was, briefly, a server at one
of them back in the day. She had a huge impact on me. I loved going into
the bar during the day and helping with inventory. Doing all the day-to-day
operations that grease the wheels for service [is] like putting on a play ev-
ery night. Seeing that meant that a woman could own and operate a hospi-
tality business, so it was never strange to me.
 Mandy Sparacino | Del Frisco’s Double Eagle Steak
House || Most of my mentors have all been women. Jill Zi-
morski, Elizabeth Mendez, Rachel Driver Speckan, Christy
Fuhrman, Jhea Fulgaro, Amy Lutchen … every single one of
these women helped me become the professional I am today.
They never coddled me when I was struggling, but instead
offered support and showed me what being humble but hav-
ing strength looked like in our field.

Mariarosa Tartaglione | Ai Fiori || My only female

mentor is my mother. She became a lawyer and built a strong
career in an environment totally backward in terms of gender
equality. She taught me how to respect and be respected,
how difficult it is to live in this male-dominated society and
how strong and skeptical I had to be.

What advice would you give young women

who are interested in careers in the wine Shelley Lindgren
world?
Kelsey Wonsavage || To not be intimidated by it. Get into it, keep
notes. Be grateful and respectful to others in the industry. Everyone’s time
your head down, lick the rocks, eat the moss, do everything to grow your
is important. Don’t drink too much. Listen more. Talk less.
palate the way you need to, but don’t get swept up into the wormhole
and conform. Be yourself, don’t let anyone try to change you, and just
keep going and keep pushing through it. Because it is a really lovely
Amanda Fraga | Genuine Hospitality Group || Find a mentor. I can-
not stress this enough. It is a difficult world to navigate and it can be ex-
community as well.
tremely overwhelming on your own. Having someone to bounce ideas off
of, look to for advice or just be there in a time of need has been tremendous
Shelley Lindgren | A16 and A16 Rockridge || Don’t second guess
for me. There are a lot of people out there who have started from nothing
your capabilities and what is possible for your goals and aspirations in wine.
and are willing to share their experiences.
There are more doors open today at all levels of experience in the wine
world. Don’t be afraid to work hard and be proud of all the efforts you do,
even if you don’t have all the answers for your future career. Just like wine
What impact will the pandemic have on restaurant
changes vintage to vintage and is ever-evolving, so is the wine industry. wine lists and wine service in the future?
Angela Lopez | Cascina Spinasse || I hope that people will come back
Angela Lopez | General manager and wine director, Cascina to our dining rooms with a newfound appreciation for what we do. We are
Spinasse, Seattle | > || Never let the group settings (tastings, lectures and not just selling wine. We have put our heart and soul into learning every-
competitions) derail your goals. They tend to be male-centric, cliquey and thing we can about what we have to offer. I think wine lists will have to be
over-the-top, because people are trying to show off. At the end of the day, more approachable. Restaurants themselves will have a lot of ground to
it is all about learning and growing. Stay humble. make up, so we will have to think outside the box when we curate our lists.

Alexis Percival | Ruffian and Kindred ||  Jessica Garcia | El Meson || I could see
“I don’t know” is an acceptable answer. Follow wine lists becoming smaller, more concise and
that up with curiosity. Wine information, regions, having less variety or experimental wines, but
styles and laws are not static, so be flexible with rather featuring more traditional brands.
your opinions and keep an open mind. Know that
there are more paths in the wine business than Kim Akhtar | Le Coucou and Veronika || 
are immediately obvious. You can blaze your own It will likely depend on the restaurant, but I think
trail, play to your strengths and interests and not wine and its’ service will become more approach-
follow someone else’s path. able, less stuffy and formal.

Julie Dalton | Mastro’s Steakhouse at the Victoria O’Bryan | Addison || 

Post Oak Hotel || Study relentlessly. Study multi- Once restaurants are able to move past the “sur-
ple sources of a subject by multiple authors. vival mode” portion of the pandemic, I foresee a
Studying gives you confidence. But don’t let that return to tableside services with even more en-
TOP: KELLY PULEIO; BOTTOM: STARCHEFS

confidence go to your head. Be grateful to more gagement from guests than ever. Wine lists may
seasoned sommeliers on your team who offer you shift to reflect the economic realities, but the pre-
criticism. Ask questions. Be professional. Dress mium now placed on social interaction will inspire
professionally. Be on time to tastings and stay late more indulgences for those looking to make up for
and talk to the winemakers and importers in more lost time. I’m expecting to open a lot of Cham-
detail and listen to what they have to say. Take pagne over the next few years.
Mariarosa Tartaglione

MARCH 31, 2021 • WINE SPECTATOR 75

 Buying Guide

The vineyards of Los Vascos lie 25 miles from the Pacific Ocean at the foot of Mount Cañeten, in the heart of Chile’s Colchagua Valley.

Spectator Selections New Wines From BY THE NUMBERS

79 Highly Recommended Around The World The March 31 Buying Guide features 69 classic
wines and 350 outstanding wines from among
79 Collectibles 82 Australia, Chile reviews of more than 550 new releases. Members
80 Smart Buys 83 France can access tasting notes and scores for those
wines, along with hundreds of additional wines
82 Best Values 94 Italy reviewed since our last issue, using the Wine
80 About the Buying Guide 98 Spain, Other Ratings search at WineSpectator.com.

International
100 California, Oregon
DBR (LAFITE)

MARCH 31, 2021 • WINE SPECTATOR 77

 S P E C TATO R S E L E C T I O N S
Highly Recommended
The issue’s most impressive wines. Includes
top-scorers and wines that represent optimal
purchases based on their combination of score,
price and availability.
98 Château Palmer Margaux 2018 $388 
FRANCE Remarkably concentrated, this nearly
oozes fruit, with waves of cassis, plum reduction and
warmed cherry preserves all carried by a dense yet polished
and seamlessly embedded structure. A backdrop of violet,
lilac and pastis adds to the enveloping feel, and yet with
all that depth and concentration, this is a vibrant, pure
expression, thanks in part to a riveting iron spine through
the finish. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot.
Best from 2028 through 2040. 5,830 cases made.—J.M.
98 Château Pavie St.-Emilion 2018 $365 
FRANCE This is packed with raspberry, plum and
boysenberry compote flavors that sail through thanks to
the unencumbered feel provided by the polished structure.
Fine chalky threads curl throughout as this opens in the
glass, with flamboyant flashes of apple wood, anise and
violet emerging through the finish. Youthfully dense, but
everything is in proportion. Merlot, Cabernet Franc and
Cabernet Sauvignon. Best from 2025 through 2040.—J.M.
98 Château Pichon Longueville Lalande 
Pauillac 2018 $198 FRANCE Offers a deep well
of dark currant, blackberry paste and plum preserves fruit
that needs time to unwind fully, as it’s shrouded in warm
earth, tobacco, singed cedar, sweet bay leaf and savory
notes. A ramrod of graphite adds to the strident, struc-
tured feel. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc
and Petit Verdot. Best from 2030 through 2050.—J.M.
97 Château Léoville Barton St.-Julien 2018
$93 FRANCE Cassis, crushed plum and steeped
blackberry fruit is all packed into this wine, along with
tar, violet and roasted apple wood notes, plus a terrific tug
of warm earth. Shows lots of energy in reserve, with a
tightly knit finish pulling everything together. Cellaring
required. Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Best from 2026
through 2040. 11,600 cases made.—J.M.
96 Azelia Barolo Bricco Fiasco 2016 $120 
ITALY Scented aromas of rose, cherry, strawberry
and currant are the hallmarks of this elegant Barolo, which
is grounded by underlying hints of tar and iron, while the
lively structure shows fine integration. Long and resonant
on the finish. Best from 2022 through 2042. 480 cases
made, 150 cases imported.—B.S.
96 La Sala Chianti Classico Il Torriano Gran
Selezione 2016 $50 ITALY A beauty, this red
is packed with black cherry, black currant and violet aro-
mas and flavors, augmented by tar, licorice and mineral
notes. Broad and muscular, yet vibrant and long, with ter-
rific complexity and intensity. Best from 2022 through
2042. 420 cases made, 150 cases imported.—B.S.
Collectibles
Wines that will improve most from additional
bottle age and that show the greatest potential to
gain in value.
98 Château Haut-Brion Pessac-Léognan 2018
$612 FRANCE Waves of cassis, cherry puree and
blackberry paste roll through in this showstopper, with tea,
sandalwood, iron and anise notes providing an entourage
for the fruit. A subtle warm earth accent underscores the
finish without intruding on the texture. A large-scaled yet
eminently refined wine. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and
Cabernet Franc. Best from 2025 through 2045.—J.M.
98 Château Margaux Margaux 2018 $570 
FRANCE This struts along with supreme confi-
dence, as a cashmere-textured structure effortlessly carries
a prodigious set of warmed cassis, plum reduction and
blackberry compote flavors, pulling in alder, bergamot,
black and red tea and iron notes. Still manages to come
across as restrained in the end. A beautiful wine. Caber-
net Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot.
Best from 2028 through 2040. 10,833 cases made.—J.M.
98 Château Mouton-Rothschild Pauillac 2018
$628 FRANCE This large-scaled wine is brimming
with cassis and distilled plum fruit that’s remarkably pure,
focused and driven in feel, supported by a seamless, iron-
clad and remarkably polished structure, doing its job with-
out detracting from the fruit. Add in sparkles of savory,
racy floral and sanguine accents, as well as some pretty
ridiculous length, and you have another battleship of a
wine in the making. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and
Petit Verdot. Best from 2030 through 2050.—J.M.
MARCH 31, 2021 • WINE SPECTATOR 79
 SPECTATOR SELECTIONS:
Collectibles / Smart Buys

About the Buying Guide

T his Buying Guide contains ratings of new releases from around the world. Complete tasting notes are
provided for new releases scoring 85 or more points (on the Wine Spectator 100-point scale, explained
below); notes for wines scoring 84 points or less are included at the discretion of the taster. Hundreds of addi-
tional reviews appear each month on our website, www.winespectator.com.
Each review carries the initials of the Wine Spectator editor who blind-tasted and scored the wine and wrote
the review, based on the regional specializations indicated below.
Kim Marcus
Bruce Sanderson
California Chardonnay, Merlot and Pinot Noir, Argentina, Chile
Burgundy, Piedmont, Tuscany, Germany, Austria 97 Vietti Barolo Rocche di Castiglione 2016
$175 ITALY The purity of the fruit is the highlight
of this complex and compelling red, with cherry, raspberry
James Molesworth California Cabernet Sauvignon, Bordeaux, Rhône Valley, Port
and floral aromas and flavors permeating from start to fin-
MaryAnn Worobiec California Sauvignon Blanc and other whites, Australia, New Zealand ish, plus notes of iron, tobacco and eucalyptus. The firm
Alison Napjus Italy, Champagne, Alsace, South Africa structure melds nicely as the finish lingers. Best from 2023
Tim Fish California Zinfandel and other reds, Oregon, Washington, U.S. sparkling wines through 2045. 307 cases made, 75 cases imported.—B.S.
Gillian Sciaretta France, Spain, Portugal, Israel
Thomas Matthews Spain

How We Do the Tastings

Wine Spectator editors taste more than 16,000 wines each year. Wines are tasted in our offices in New York and
Napa, Calif. Tastings are also conducted on location in various European winegrowing regions.
All tastings are conducted in private, under controlled conditions. Wines are always tasted blind, in flights
organized by varietal, appellation or region. Bottles are bagged and coded. Tasters are told only the general type
of wine (varietal or region) and the vintage. Price is not taken into account. Each tasting begins with a wine
previously rated, which is tasted non-blind as a reference point. Other already-rated wines are inserted into the
blind tasting to ensure consistency. A typical tasting-session consists of 20 to 30 wines, with a maximum of two
sessions per day. We retaste many wines to confirm impressions, always in subsequent blind tastings.
Notes and ratings are entered directly into our database prior to the removal of the bags. Additional comments 96 Château d’Yquem Sauternes 2018 $364 
FRANCE A beauty from start to finish, with fresh,
racy notes of honeysuckle, quinine and mirabelle plum
may be added to a note after the identity of the wine is revealed, but the score is never changed.
leading off, followed by richer quince, creamed pear and
white nectarine flavors. Everything melds through the
Featured Wines: Spectator Selections, Labels and Photographs finish, picking up macadamia nut and brioche accents to
Each issue, our editors choose wines with special qualities; called Spectator Selections, they are highlighted in the complete the seduction. Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc.
first pages of this Buying Guide, along with their labels. The categories are described below. In addition, selected Best from 2025 through 2045. 4,166 cases made.—J.M.
reviews throughout the Buying Guide include a photograph of a winery principal, presenting these producers in
a more personal way. All labels and images are chosen by Wine Spectator for editorial purposes only and do not
represesent any commercial transaction between Wine Spectator and the producers whose wines are featured.
Smart Buys
Wines that deliver fine character at affordable
Highly Recommended: The issue’s most impressive wines. Includes top-scorers and wines that
prices and that are broadly available.
represent optimal purchases based on their combination of score, price and availability.
Collectibles: Wines that will improve most from additional bottle age and that show the greatest
potential to gain in value.
Smart Buys: Wines that deliver fine character at affordable prices and that are broadly available.
Best Values: Wines with solid scores, modest prices and wide distribution.

About Prices and Wines Tasted

Prices shown reflect the suggested retail price. When the suggested retail price is not available, we publish the
prevailing wholesale price with a standard markup added. Actual retail prices may vary.
Wines are chosen for tasting from among those sent to our offices for review and those purchased at retail.
Because we for the most part serve a U.S. audience, we prefer to review wines that are widely available there.

About the 100-Point Scale

Ratings reflect how highly our editors regard each wine relative to other wines in its category and are based on
potential quality—how good the wine will be when at its peak. The score summarizes a wine’s overall quality;
95 Merum Priorati Priorat Destí 2017 $29 
SPAIN This red is expressive and harmonious, with
black cherry, mineral, floral, mountain herb and spice
the tasting note describes the wine’s style and character. notes supported by well-integrated tannins and lively acid-
ity. Focused, fresh and long. Grenache, Carignan and
95–100 Classic: a great wine Syrah. Drink now through 2027. 10,500 cases made, 1,600
90–94 Outstanding: a wine of superior character and style cases imported.—T.M.
85–89 Very good: a wine with special qualities
80–84 Good: a solid, well-made wine
75–79 Mediocre: a drinkable wine that may have minor flaws
50–74 Not recommended

80 WINE SPECTATOR • MARCH 31, 2021

 SPECTATOR SELECTIONS: Smart Buys

93 Domaine de Chevalier Bordeaux White

Clos des Lunes Lune d’Argent 2018 $22 
FRANCE This is tightly coiled now, but the range of juicy
tangerine, white peach and white ginger notes should un-
91 Dashe Zinfandel California Vineyard Select
2018 $24 CALIFORNIA Opens with a burst of
jammy blackberry fruit and takes on tension and structure,
furl soon enough, carried by a mouthwatering quinine along with toasty sage and pepper, toward refined tannins.
note and ending with a light orange blossom hint on the Drink now through 2027. 3,100 cases made.—T.F.
finish. Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc. Drink now through
2026. 12,500 cases made.—J.M.

93 Lingua Franca Pinot Noir Eola-Amity

Hills Avni 2018 $30 OREGON A lithe wine,
with laser focus, offering layers of snappy cherry, river
stone and savory dark spice flavors that build tension
toward fine-grained tannins. Drink now through 2027.
2,600 cases made.—T.F.
91 Leonildo Pieropan Soave Classico 2018
$23 ITALY A zesty, enticing white, with tropical
pineapple and guava notes layered with a subtle skein of
ground cardamom and ginger spice. Light-bodied and
lithe, with mouthwatering acidity and a minerally under-
pinning throughout. Garganega and Trebbiano. Drink
now through 2025. 4,088 cases imported.—A.N.

90 Feudo Montoni Nero d’Avola Sicilia

Lagnusa 2017 $22 ITALY This elegant red is
92 Bodegas Ondarre Rioja Rivallana Reserva
2016 $28 SPAIN This red has good density yet
remains graceful. The velvety texture carries ripe plum
medium-bodied and well-knit, with a hint of dried oreg-
ano layered with dried raspberry, rosehip and minerally
iron flavors that show loamy earth accents. Light, taut
and boysenberry flavors, with accents of toast, cedar and tannins trim the well-spiced finish. Drink now through
anise. Well-integrated tannins and fresh acidity keep it 2026. 10,000 cases made, 4,450 cases imported.—A.N.
balanced. Tempranillo, Garnacha, Mazuelo and Graciano.
Drink now through 2028. 7,500 cases made, 4,400 cases
imported.—T.M.

400,000+ WINE RATINGS

Search our database by winery, region,
variety, vintage, price, score and more
WineSpectator.com/Wine

MARCH 31, 2021 • WINE SPECTATOR 81

 SPECTATOR SELECTIONS: Smart Buys / Best Values / New Releases: Australia / Chile
90 Bodegas Olarra Rioja Añares Reserva
2016 $22 SPAIN Smooth tannins encase the
dark cherry, loamy earth and tobacco leaf flavors in this
concentrated red, with cola, licorice, violet and mineral
notes detailing the finish. Tempranillo, Graciano, Gar-
nacha and Mazuelo. Drink now through 2026. 22,000
cases made, 14,000 cases imported.—G.S.
90 Viñedos Terranoble Carmenère Maule
Valley Gran Reserva 2018 $17  CHILE
Contoured and rich-tasting, with lithe dried green herbal
accents to the dark plum and berry flavors. Peppery mid-
palate, with a long finish filled with wild spice and un-
derbrush accents. Drink now through 2024. 10,000 cases
made, 3,000 cases imported.—K.M.
Best Values
Wines with solid scores, modest prices and wide
distribution.
90 San Alejandro Garnacha Calatayud Las
Rocas 2017 $14 SPAIN This red is plush yet
focused, with well-integrated tannins and firm acidity
providing a balanced structure. Savory earth and mineral
notes add depth to the black cherry and currant fruit.
Garnacha and Syrah. Drink now through 2024. 27,400
cases made, 27,400 cases imported.—T.M.
82 WINE SPECTATOR • MARCH 31, 2021
89 Château Citran Bordeaux Supérieur 2018
$15 FRANCE Juicy, with a mix of red and black
cherry compote flavors that pick up anise and savory
details through the finish. Drink now through 2022.
20,000 cases made, 5,000 cases imported.—J.M.
88 Château de Lagarde Bordeaux Les Hauts
de Lagarde 2018 $13 FRANCE A core of black-
berry and black cherry preserves shows good energy as the
flavors move through an anise- and sweet tobacco–tinged
finish. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc.
Drink now through 2022. 12,000 cases made, 9,291 cases
imported.—J.M.
88 Tormaresca Cabernet Sauvignon Puglia
Nèprica 2018 $12 ITALY Loaded with fragrant
fresh herb and lively black currant and boysenberry fruit,
this medium-bodied red is fresh and approachable, with
a zesty finish of black pepper. Drink now. 10,000 cases
imported.—A.N.
New Wines From Around the World
AUSTRALIA
95 Torbreck Descendant Barossa Valley 2017
$120 Lush and juicy, this red balances elegance and
power, showing aromatic wild blackberry, blueberry, white
pepper and Earl Grey tea notes. Cocoa, dried lavender
and black licorice hints linger on the finish, wrapped up
in polished, velvety tannins. Shiraz and Viognier. Drink
now through 2035. 100 cases imported.—M.W.
95 Torbreck RunRig Barossa Valley 2017
$225 Focuses on a beam of pure fruit flavors, with notes
of raspberry, maraschino cherry, framboise and blueberry,
highlighted by cream soda, nutmeg and cigar box details.
Impressive for its boldness, but also shows restraint, with
a stunning finish that goes on and on. Shiraz and Viog-
nier. Drink now through 2035. 100 cases imported.—M.W.
92 Torbreck The Struie Barossa 2018 $55
Rich and concentrated up front, with complex and seam-
less notes of blueberry, huckleberry and wild blackberry,
with details of cedar, violets, and white pepper. Finds
plenty of harmony on the finish, with hints of mocha and
supple, velvety tannins. Drink now through 2030. 300
cases imported.—M.W.
91 Torbreck Sémillon Barossa Valley Wood-
cutter’s 2019 $20 Succulent and savory, with touches
of matchstick, lanolin and poached pear, roasted fennel,
white pepper and lemon zest notes and fresh acidity. Drink
now. 300 cases imported.—M.W.
90 Henschke Henry’s Seven Barossa 2018
$48 Detailed, with fresh black currant and blackberry
flavors that are accented with sage, matcha, orange zest
and a touch of apricot, all on a supple frame showing
plenty of elegance and freshness. Shiraz, Grenache,
Mataro and Viognier. Drink now through 2030. 1,230
cases imported.—M.W.
90 Torbreck Cuvée Juveniles Barossa Valley
2018 $28 Supple and velvety, with wave after wave
of pomegranate, kirsch and maraschino cherry flavors
that show accents of red licorice, green tea and black
walnut, with lingering milk chocolate notes. Grenache,
Mataro and Shiraz. Drink now through 2030. 550 cases
imported.—M.W.
88 Bremerton Sauvignon Blanc-Verdelho
South Australia Matilda Plains 2019 $15 An
appealing savory note of lanolin and beeswax lingers with
lemon meringue, apple and pear flavors on a sleek frame.
Sauvignon Blanc and Verdelho. Drink now. 8,000 cases
made, 504 cases imported.—M.W.
88 St. Hallett Shiraz Barossa Black Clay 2018
$16 There’s a dark, earthy undertone adding complex
bass notes of English breakfast tea, forest floor and dried
herb that mingle with plump black cherry and plum fla-
vors on a supple frame with chewy tannins. Drink now.
5,000 cases made, 500 cases imported.—M.W.
CHILE
92 Matetic Syrah San Antonio Valley-Chile
Corralillo 2015 $28 Full-bore and deeply flavored,
with intense spiciness to the blackberry and dark plum
tart elements. Shows pastry accents midpalate, with a
long, plush finish that offers chocolate mousse notes.
Drink now through 2025. 8,000 cases made, 150 cases
imported.—K.M.
92 Viña San Pedro Cabernet Sauvignon
Cachapoal Valley Cabo de Hornos 2018 $50 Big,
rich and filled with a deep well of dark plum, blackberry
and cherry tart flavors that are filled with chocolate
mousse and mocha accents. Long, caressing finish offers
Asian spice notes. Drink now through 2025. 3,000 cases
made, 220 cases imported.—K.M.
92 Los Vascos Le Dix Colchagua Valley 2017
$70 Refined and minerally style, with ripe dark fruit
and plum tart flavors that are supported by medium-
grained tannins. Rich and contoured in the midpalate,
with cappuccino notes on the finish with green herbal
hints. Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenère, Syrah and Cab-
ernet Franc. Drink now through 2024. 8,000 cases made,
400 cases imported.—K.M.
91 Concha y Toro Carmenère Peumo Marques
de Casa Concha 2018 $22 Ripe and rich-tasting,
with concentrated dark plum, currant and blackberry fla-
vors that feature notes of anise and plenty of dried green
herbal accents. Dark chocolate on the creamy finish.
Drink now through 2025. 20,000 cases made, 714 cases
imported.—K.M.
 New Releases: Chile / France
90 Viñedos Errázuriz Ovalle Cabernet Sauvi-
gnon Colchagua Valley Viñedos Marchigüe Santa
Marta Gran Reserva 2019 $20 This big red is full of
concentrated dark plum and dried blackberry flavors,
backed by firm tannins and acidity. Shows dark chocolate
notes and hints of mint on the finish. Drink now through
2024. 75,000 cases made, 1,260 cases imported.—K.M.
90 Viña Montes Syrah Colchagua Valley
Alpha 2018 $22 There’s plenty of creaminess to the
ripe dark cherry and plum flavors in this red, with bacony
accents. The refined finish is fine-grained and open-
textured, with a lingering toastiness. Drink now through
2024. 22,000 cases made, 1,500 cases imported.—K.M.
90 Viñedos Terranoble Carmenère Maule Valley
Gran Reserva 2018 $17 See Smart Buys, page 82.
89 Viña Montes Merlot Colchagua Valley
Classic Series 2018 $13 Ripe dark plum and dried
black currant flavors show plenty of loamy notes, with
dried savory spice accents midpalate, followed by a finish
filled with espresso notes. Drink now through 2023. 57,000
cases made, 1,500 cases imported.—K.M.
88 Matetic Sauvignon Blanc San Antonio
Valley-Chile Corralillo 2019 $15 This white offers
vibrant minerality, with juicy citrus and pear flavors that
are flanked by hints of white pepper and green spices,
showing anise details on the finish. Drink now through
2023. 10,600 cases made, 150 cases imported.—K.M.
88 Viñedos Terranoble Cabernet Sauvignon
Colchagua Valley Gran Reserva 2018 $17 Dark
fruit and Asian spice flavors show notes of brooding ripe-
ness, with dried savory accents midpalate and chocolate
nibs on the finish. Drink now through 2023. 15,000 cases
made, 5,000 cases imported.—K.M.
88 Terrapura Cabernet Sauvignon Colchagua
Valley Reserva 2019 $12 Vibrant and well-structured,
with refined dried berry and savory spice flavors supported
by fresh acidity. Taut tannins with dried green herbs on
the finish. Drink now through 2023. 30,000 cases made,
650 cases imported.—K.M.
87 Viña San Pedro Cabernet Sauvignon Chile
9 Lives Reserve 2019 $10 Juicy, with notes of pome-
granate to the spiced cherry and plum tart flavors. Hints
of dried mint linger on the finish. Drink now. 55,555 cases
made, 9,000 cases imported.—K.M.
87 Viña Siegel Sauvignon Blanc Curicó Valley
Crucero Collection 2019 $14 Fruity and crisp, with
dried peach and citrus flavors that feature hints of ginger
spice. Fresh finish. Drink now. 8,500 cases made, 1,000
cases imported.—K.M.
86 Viña San Pedro Sauvignon Blanc Chile 9
Lives Reserve 2019 $10 Grapefruit and ripe citrus
flavors feature stony hints in this white, with green pep-
per notes on the finish. Drink now. 100,000 cases made,
5,000 cases imported.—K.M.
85 Viña San Pedro Cabernet Sauvignon Chile
Gato Negro 2019 $5 Dried berry and plum flavors
are medium-bodied and offer savory accents, ending with
a fresh finish. Drink now. 100,000 cases made, 95,000
cases imported.—K.M.
85 Terrapura Pinot Noir Itata Valley Reserva
2019 $12 Medium-bodied, with dried berry flavors that
show pomegranate notes, with white pepper on the finish.
Drink now. 30,000 cases made, 500 cases imported.—K.M.
FRANCE
Bordeaux / Bordeaux AOC
& Bordeaux Supérieur
89 Château du Grand Bern Bordeaux Supérieur
2018 $18 Ripe, with a core of dark plum and black
cherry compote flavors lined with charcoal and dark to-
bacco, yet stays fresh, with an easygoing feel through the
finish. Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now through
2022. 18,000 cases made, 1,000 cases imported.—J.M.
89 Château Citran Bordeaux Supérieur 2018
$15 See Best Values, page 82.
89 Château Croix-Mouton Bordeaux Supérieur
2018 $16 Lightly steeped damson plum and black
cherry notes are expressive, while fine-grained structure
pulls in light humus and cedar details through the finish.
Drink now through 2022. 27,280 cases made, 6,000 cases
imported.—J.M.
89 Château Jean Faux Bordeaux Supérieur 2018
$NA Expressive notes of red and black cherry preserves
are lined with black tea and apple wood accents. Merlot
and Cabernet Franc. Drink now through 2023. Tasted
twice, with consistent notes. 1,250 cases made.—J.M.
88 Château de la Cour d’Argent Bordeaux
Supérieur 2018 $14 Soft and generous in feel, with
cassis and warmed plum sauce notes laced with a cocoa
note. Hint of bay keeps it honest on the finish. Merlot,
Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Drink now.
1,300 cases made, 1,000 cases imported.—J.M.
88 Château Grand Jean Bordeaux Supérieur
2018 $30 Friendly, with a light brambly thread push-
ing the core of cherry and red currant fruit along. Dashes
of cedar and savory on the finish. Drink now through
2022. 30,000 cases made, 12,000 cases imported.—J.M.
88 Château de Lagarde Bordeaux Les Hauts
de Lagarde 2018 $13 See Best Values, page 82.
88 Château Lamothe Vincent Bordeaux Reserve
2018 $12 Friendly and engaging, with juicy raspberry
and blackberry fruit flavors carried by a hint of bramble.
Licorice-tinted finish. Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cab-
ernet Sauvignon. Drink now. 20,000 cases made, 1,000
cases imported.—J.M.
88 Château de Parenchère Bordeaux Supérieur
2018 $15 Black cherry and black currant fruit is lined
with light cedar and iron hints before a plum skin edge
emerges on the finish. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and
Cabernet Franc. Drink now through 2022. 14,600 cases
made, 4,000 cases imported.—J.M.
88 Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) Bordeaux
Légende 2018 $17 Plump, with anise, plum and black-
berry notes backed by a touch of sweet toast on the finish.
Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Drink now through
2022. 240,000 cases made, 8,000 cases imported.—J.M.
88 Château Roques Mauriac Bordeaux Supéri-
eur 2018 $18 Offers up dark cherry and plum notes
mixed with dark tobacco and a touch of warm earth on
the finish. Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvi-
gnon. Drink now through 2022. 7,000 cases made, 2,000
cases imported.—J.M.
88 Château Rousset-Caillau Bordeaux Supéri-
eur 2018 $17 This has a direct core of cherry and plum
fruit dressed up in some vanilla-accented toast. Stays fresh,
with a light savory echo on the finish. Merlot and Cab-
ernet Sauvignon. Drink now through 2023. 3,000 cases
made, 1,000 cases imported.—J.M.
87 Château Bellevue Bordeaux Supérieur 2018
$15 Damson plum and blood orange notes mingle in
this direct offering, with light cedar and charcoal threads
on the finish. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, Cab-
ernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Drink now. 10,000 cases
made, 2,000 cases imported.—J.M.
87 Château de Beauregard-Ducourt Bordeaux
2018 $14 Cherry and cassis notes take the lead, with
hints of singed cedar and a tug of warm earth on the fin-
ish. Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Drink now. 23,000
cases made, 1,500 cases imported.—J.M.
87 Château Briot Bordeaux 2018 $14 Direct,
with cherry puree and cassis flavors laced with singed
cedar and savory notes. Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.
Drink now. 25,000 cases made, 3,000 cases imported.—J.M.
MARCH 31, 2021 • WINE SPECTATOR 83

87 Château Jalousie-Beaulieu Bordeaux
Supérieur 2018 $13 Direct, with bitter plum and
cherry notes mixed with light cedar and savory hints.
Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Drink now. 8,400 cases made,
4,200 cases imported.—J.M.
87 Château Larroque Bordeaux Supérieur 2018
$15 A light menthol hint gives way to gently mulled
cherry and plum notes, ending with a touch of charcoal
on the finish. Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Drink
now. 16,000 cases made, 3,000 cases imported.—J.M.
87 Château de Macard Bordeaux Supérieur
2018 $20 A subtle tea note leads the way for gentle-
edged red cherry and red currant notes. Perfumed cedar
note on the finish. Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Cabernet
Sauvignon. Drink now through 2022. 20,000 cases made,
4,000 cases imported.—J.M.
87 Château La Mothe du Barry Bordeaux
Supérieur 2018 $14 Bright and open-knit, with a mix
of plum and licorice notes allied to a toasty vanilla spine.
Drink now. 6,670 cases made, 1,890 cases imported.—J.M.
87 Château La Rose du Pin Bordeaux Supérieur
2018 $15 Cherry and damson plum notes are lined
with a tobacco note. Cedary edge takes hold on the fin-
ish. Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now. 22,700
cases made, 1,000 cases imported.—J.M.
87 Château de Seguin Bordeaux Supérieur
Cuvée Prestige 2018 $10 Friendly cherry paste and
red licorice notes are mixed with tobacco and sanguine
hints. Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now through
2022. 20,000 cases made, 16,500 cases imported.—J.M.
87 Château St.-Antoine Bordeaux Supérieur
Réserve du Château 2018 $12 Fresh, with damson
plum and red cherry notes that are silky in feel, ending
with a savory streak. Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Drink
now. 5,000 cases made, 1,400 cases imported.—J.M.
87 Château Subilaux Bordeaux 2018 $12
Light savory and bay streaks pierce a soft, easygoing core
of plum and cherry fruit. Fresh finish has a mineral twinge.
Drink now. 2,500 cases made, 1,000 cases imported.—J.M.
87 Virginie Thunevin Bordeaux 2018 $16
Fresh, with plum and black cherry notes, a hint of savory
and a late touch of anise on the finish. Drink now. 5,415
cases made, 2,000 cases imported.—J.M.
86 Château La Rose du Pin Bordeaux 2018 $14
Damson plum, cedar and herb notes mingle in this light-
bodied, direct offering. Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.
Drink now. 17,000 cases made, 1,000 cases imported.—J.M.
FRANCE
Bordeaux / Haut-Médoc
91 Château Larrivaux Haut-
Médoc 2018 $21 Fresh and juicy,
with a mix of raspberry, cassis and
plum fruit notes that are framed
nicely by a dark tobacco edge. A
tarry hint adds some bass to the fin-
ish. Really solid. Merlot, Cabernet
Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and
Petit Verdot. Drink now through BÉRANGÈRE TESSERON
2029. 4,583 cases made.—J.M. Owner
90 Château Cambon La Pelouse Haut-Médoc
2018 $22 Alluring tobacco and dark tea notes lead the
way, while a caressing set of cassis and black cherry puree
flavors follow closely, with a cedar echo on the finish.
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Drink now
through 2025. 19,165 cases made.—J.M.
90 Château du Cartillon Haut-Médoc 2018
$24 Black currant and black cherry fruit take center
stage, with hints of graphite and dark tobacco along the
edges.The finish is fresh and focused. Merlot, Cabernet
84 WINE SPECTATOR • MARCH 31, 2021
New Releases: France
Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Drink now through 2028.
6,200 cases made, 1,000 cases imported.—J.M.
90 Château La Tour Carnet Haut-Médoc 2018
$39 Cassis and cherry notes stream through, laced with
light anise, black tea and sweet tobacco accents, while a
late tug of earth on the finish adds nice contrast. Merlot,
Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot.
Drink now through 2028. 48,300 cases made.—J.M.
88 Château d’Arcins Haut-Médoc 2018 $25
Effusive cherry and red licorice notes are the dominant
characteristics here, while light cedar and red tea hints
filter through on the finish. Drink now through 2023.
40,000 cases made, 5,000 cases imported.—J.M.
88 Château Belle-Vue Haut-Médoc 2018 $22
Dark cherry and plum fruit is lined with a licorice note,
showing a tug of earth on the open-knit finish. Cabernet
Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc and Car-
menère. Drink now through 2022. Tasted twice, with con-
sistent notes. 8,700 cases made, 6,100 cases imported.—J.M.
88 Château Larose-Trintaudon Haut-Médoc
2018 $25 Succulent cherry and black currant preserves
flavors have good energy, picking up sweet tobacco, cedar
and iron hints along the way. Cabernet Sauvignon, Mer-
lot and Petit Verdot. Drink now through 2023. 70,000
cases made, 7,500 cases imported.—J.M.
FRANCE
Bordeaux / Margaux
98 Château Margaux Margaux 2018 $570 See
Collectibles, page 79.
98 Château Palmer Margaux 2018 $388 See
Highly Recommended, page 79.
96 Château Rauzan-Ségla Margaux 2018 $150
Concentrated, with a deep well of cassis and dark cherry
preserve, but maintains the grace and perfume typical of
Margaux, flowing with silky charm as lilac, red tea, min-
eral and sanguine details fill in gently behind the fruit.
The long and very suave finish sparkles with a savory note.
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Best from
2025 through 2040.—J.M.
95 Château Marquis d’Alesme Becker Margaux
2018 $51 Gorgeous mouthfeel right from the first sip,
with a velvety, fine-grained texture that lets the range of
dark plum, black currant and blackberry fruit flavors splay
out without losing focus, while mouthwatering black tea,
alder and mineral notes wait gracefully in reserve, showing
just a hint, for now, of what they can do on the finish. Cab-
ernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc.
Best from 2025 through 2038. 6,000 cases made.—J.M.
95 Château Giscours Margaux 2018 $69 Very
expressive, with violet and lilac notes followed by creamed
plum and mulled blackberry and black currant fruit fla-
vors. Subtle anise, juniper and sanguine notes thread the
very long finish. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit
Verdot. Best from 2024 through 2036.—J.M.
95 Château Malescot-St.-Exupéry Margaux
2018 $63 Lovely, with gently mulled plum, blackberry
and black currant fruit sailing through atop a velvety
structure while mouthwatering bay, black tea and iron
notes flow underneath. Seductive, detailed finish lets a
sanguine note echo longest. Gorgeous wine. Cabernet
Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2023
through 2036. 9,183 cases made.—J.M.
94 Château Cantenac-Brown Margaux 2018
$66 Shows a touch of dark earth out front, with a mix
of smoldering tobacco, espresso crema and singed alder
notes before the core of warmed plum and blackberry re-
duction flavors finally starts to unwind. Just a bit burly for
a Margaux, but certainly lots to like here, with ample range
and length. Time will likely add that last bit of refinement.
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Best
from 2023 through 2036. 10,000 cases made.—J.M.
94 Château Kirwan Margaux 2018 $55 This
drapes wonderfully, with its range of warmed cassis, plum
reduction and blackberry preserves flavors displaying a
cashmere feel, while warmed anise, alder, juniper and bay
leaf details peek in throughout, with a rich yet defined
finish. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and
Petit Verdot. Best from 2023 through 2036. 7,500 cases
made.—J.M.
94 Château du Tertre Margaux 2018 $50 Very
seductive, with warmed plum sauce, cassis and raspberry
confiture flavors stitched together with singed sandalwood
and light mineral notes. Ends with a velvety edge while
a flash of alder darts in the background. Cabernet Sauvi-
gnon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Best from
2023 through 2036.—J.M.
93 Château Dauzac Margaux 2018 $53 Very
fresh and silky in feel, with a bright display of raspberry
coulis and cassis notes that glides through, infused gently
with rooibos tea, incense and savory details through the
caressing finish. Understated style, but there’s a lot to like.
Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Drink now through
2034. 10,000 cases made.—J.M.
93 Château Lascombes Margaux 2018 $89
A bright juniper note leads off, followed quickly by a mix
of warmed cassis, steeped plum and blackberry compote
flavors. Silky and fine-grained in feel from start to finish,
with a late flurry of singed wood, savory and dark tea
details on the finish. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and
Petit Verdot. Best from 2023 through 2036. 29,000 cases
made.—J.M.
93 Château Margaux Margaux Pavillon Rouge
2018 $226 A singed alder note frames a core of gently
steeped plum and black currant flavors while smoldering
tobacco, bay and warm earth hints fill in through the fin-
ish. Caressing in feel and seductive through the sneaky
long finish. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot
and Cabernet Franc. Drink now through 2034. 8,333 cases
made.—J.M.
93 Château Siran Margaux 2018 $35 Juicy
and forward, with expressive cassis, plum reduction and
blackberry paste flavors layered together and set against
a backdrop of black tea, bay and alder. A long, subtle min-
eral note leaves a mouthwatering feel at the very end.
Lovely. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot.
Drink now through 2035. 8,333 cases made.—J.M.
93 Château Marquis de Terme Margaux 2018
$53 Fresh and racy in feel, with a zip of acidity driving
through the middle, lending support to the mix of black-
berry, plum and cassis flavors. Dried anise, alder and lilac
accents add range on the finish. Cabernet Sauvignon,
Merlot and Petit Verdot. Best from 2022 through 2034.
12,165 cases made.—J.M.
92 Château Desmirail Margaux 2018 $48
Lilac, warmed black currant preserves and incense notes
work together to define this caressing wine, while subtle
mineral, bay and warm earth notes support the finish.
Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. Best from
2022 through 2033. 4,583 cases made.—J.M.
92 Château Labégorce Margaux 2018 $36
Silky and refined in feel, with perfumy black currant paste,
plum reduction and blackberry compote notes forming
the core while sandalwood, black tea and cedar accents
drape the finish. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Ver-
dot and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2022 through 2034.
9,000 cases made.—J.M.
92 Château Prieuré-Lichine Margaux 2018 $51
Very bright up front, with lots of floral lift leading the way
while the core of warmed cassis and steeped plum tags
along behind. Smoldering feel on the finish, with dark
tea and sandalwood accents filling in. Cabernet Sauvi-
gnon, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Best from 2022 through
2032. 13,000 cases made.—J.M.

91 Château Mongravey Margaux 2018 $40
Sleek and fresh, with engaging blackberry, plum and black
currant compote flavors pumping through nicely, while
flecks of lilac, incense and black tea are sprinkled through-
out. Good energy through the finish, with a bright iron
note too. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet
Franc. Best from 2022 through 2032. 7,900 cases made,
1,200 cases imported.—J.M.
91 Château Paveil de Luze Margaux 2018 $40
Fine-grained, with crushed plum and cassis notes carried
by a graphite note before extra black tea, tobacco and
warm earth accents fill in on the finish. There’s latent
length too. Best from 2022 through 2032. 34,000 cases
made, 1,500 cases imported.—J.M.
FRANCE
Bordeaux / Pauillac
99 Château Latour Pauillac 2018 $NA
A 97
headturner, with a beautifully expressive range of violet,
warm cassis and black tea aromas that gives it a beguiling
aspect, while the palate courses along with unyielding
precision thanks to compacted graphite girders that stretch
out from start to finish. In the end, there’s a tug of earth,
a floral flash and an impressive encore of pure fruit, and
the entire thing drapes like cashmere with the structure
perfectly embedded. Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.
Best from 2030 through 2050.—J.M.
98 Château Mouton-Rothschild Pauillac 2018
$628 See Collectibles, page 79.
98 Château Pichon Longueville Lalande  keeping pace. This has a slight throwback feel, so if you
Pauillac 2018 $198 See Highly Recommended,
page 79.
NO. 1308/13”
ACCORDING TO EC REGULATION
“CAMPAIGN FINANCED
New Releases: France
97 Château Lafite Rothschild Pauillac 2018
$846 Very pure, with a sleek and extremely focused
beam of cassis, black cherry puree and blackberry preserves
streaming through, lined along the edges with savory,
sweet bay leaf and black tea details. Those extra notes as-
sert themselves through the finish, but without intruding
too much on the fruit, letting it play out over a long iron
spine. Hums with precision. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot
and Petit Verdot. Best from 2030 through 2045.—J.M.
97 Château Lynch Bages Pauillac 2018 $134
Vibrant, with a violet and cassis lead-in that expands to
include steeped black cherry and plum fruit as well as ex-
tra savory, iron and licorice root notes. There’s nice latent
grip too, with a mouthwatering tug of earth at the very
end. The fruit is so vibrant, it’s a tease now, but there’s
structure here for the long haul, so be patient. Cabernet
Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Best
from 2025 through 2040.—J.M.
Château Pichon Baron Pauillac 2018 $176
A very polished and pure expression of Pauillac, but don’t
go to sleep on it. As charming and vibrant as the cassis,
cherry preserves and blackberry paste flavors are, they
have a latent saturated feel. There’s a serious network of
iron girders supporting it all, with sweet tobacco, floral
and worn cedar accents. Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.
Best from 2030 through 2050. 13,300 cases made.—J.M.
95 Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste Pauillac 2018
$87 Juicy and compact now, with dark currant, black-
berry and fig notes at the core, surrounded by lots of warm
earth, singed alder and tobacco leaf notes. Cast iron note
helps extend the finish, with the fruit and earth notes
like old-school, ageworthy Pauillac, this is your wine.
Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Best from 2024 through
2038. 10,000 cases made.—J.M.
94 Château Haut-Batailley Pauillac 2018 $69
Juicy, fresh and nicely compact, with sleek iron along the
edges of a core of steeped plum and cassis fruit flavors.
Subtle tugs of savory, tobacco and cedar through the fin-
ish, with a last, lingering perfumed whiff of dark tea. Cab-
ernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Best from 2024 through
2038.—J.M.
94 Château Lafite Rothschild Pauillac Car-
ruades de Lafite Rothschild 2018 $273 This is
seductive, with mulled plum and black cherry fruit infused
with dark tea, singed cedar and bay leaf. An iron note is
nicely embedded through the finish, which has a subtle
tug of earth. Very restrained in feel, but with some seri-
ously sneaky length. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and
Cabernet Franc. Best from 2025 through 2038.—J.M.
94 Château Latour Pauillac Les Forts de
Latour 2018 $NA This version offers a gorgeous
combination of cashmere and graphite, with racy-edged
cassis and blackberry fruit supported from underneath,
while light violet, anise and black tea details add range
through the finish. A sleek and refined Pauillac that is
hard to resist, but should easily handle cellaring. Caber-
net Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Best from 2022
through 2035.—J.M.
93 Château d’Armailhac Pauillac 2018 $58
The core of ripe cassis, plum sauce and raspberry puree
flavors have a succulent feel, while licorice snap, graphite
and singed alder notes play along the edges. Nice glycer-
ine feel through the focused and fine-grained finish.
Tempting now, but time will bring more nuance. Caber-
net Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot.
Best from 2022 through 2035.—J.M.
MARCH 31, 2021 • WINE SPECTATOR 85

93 Château Batailley Pauillac 2018 $69
Youthfully compact, with the core of black currant, black-
berry and black cherry paste flavors still coiled up. There’s
a sturdy backdrop of singed alder, warm earth and smol-
dering cast iron that give it an old school touch. Structure
is ripe and energetic too. Really well built. Cabernet Sau-
vignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Best from 2024 through
2036. 25,000 cases made.—J.M.
93 Château Clerc Milon Pauillac 2018 $100
This throws off a lovely stream of violet and cassis aromas
and flavors that are sleek and pure in feel, picking up dark
cherry, iron and sanguine details along the way. Refined
and cellarworthy. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet
Franc, Petit Verdot and Carmenère. Best from 2023
through 2035.—J.M.
93 Château Duhart-Milon Rothschild Pauillac
2018 $87 This is packed with succulent blackberry
and black currant fruit, along with mulling spice, sweet
tobacco, licorice root and alder notes. Youthfully jumbled,
but the pieces are there, the mouthfeel is alluring and the
length is there for sure. For the cellar. Cabernet Sauvi-
gnon and Merlot. Best from 2025 through 2036.—J.M.
93 Château Grand-Puy Ducasse Pauillac 2018
$48 Very alluring, with a dark and winey core of cassis,
steeped plum and blackberry preserves waiting to unfold
fully while fine-grained alder, black tea, warm cast iron
and licorice root notes form a prodigious frame. Long,
dark, smoldering finish. Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.
Best from 2025 through 2038. 10,000 cases made.—J.M.
92 Château Latour Pauillac Pauillac 2018 $NA
This has a lovely feel, with a mix of graphite and velvet
textures carrying dark plum, warmed cassis and cherry re-
duction notes along. Flashes of alder, licorice and warm
earth peek in throughout. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot
and Petit Verdot. Drink now through 2032.—J.M.
92 Château Mouton-Rothschild Pauillac Le
Petit Mouton de Mouton-Rothschild 2018 $260
Pure and focused, with a lovely caressing edge to its mix
of plum sauce and warmed cassis fruit flavors that are aug-
mented by smoldering earth, tobacco and alder notes that
tug gently on the finish. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and
Cabernet Franc. Drink now through 2032.—J.M.
91 Château Lynch-Moussas Pauillac 2018 $46
Juicy and focused, with a cassis, red cherry and plum pro-
file that keeps it leaning to the red side of the fruit ledger,
while hints of sweet tobacco, and graphite lend a pleas-
antly dark note through the finish. Cabernet Sauvignon
and Merlot. Drink now through 2030. 15,000 cases
made.—J.M.
91 Château Pédesclaux Pauillac 2018 $48
Ripe and juicy in feel, with expressive cassis and plum
paste notes lined liberally with red and black licorice and
backed by a floral note through the finish. Cabernet Sau-
vignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Drink
now through 2030. 12,500 cases made.—J.M.
91 Château Pibran Pauillac
2018 $40 An enticing version,
with violet and iron notes sharing
equal time with a mix of red and
black currant fruit. Cedar and hu-
mus notes dot the finish, adding
range. This is approachable already
too. Cabernet Sauvignon and Mer-
lot. Drink now through 2029. 2,083
cases made.—J.M.
JEAN-RENÉ MATIGNON
Winemaker
FRANCE
Bordeaux / Pessac-Léognan / Red
98 Château Haut-Brion Pessac-Léognan
2018 $612 See Collectibles, page 79.
86 WINE SPECTATOR • MARCH 31, 2021
New Releases: France
97 Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte Pessac- 93 Clos Marsalette Pessac-Léognan 2018 $25
Léognan 2018 $114 Ripe and seductive, offering a This has fresh savory and bay streaks running through the
caressing wave of cassis, plum puree and blackberry com- middle of its core of steeped plum and blackberry fruit
pote flavors that hold sway throughout, but not without flavors, while apple wood and iron notes streak the finish.
support from enticing savory, licorice, warm loam and Distinctive wine, with grippy character. Merlot and Cab-
mineral accents along the way. Cashmere finish lets ev- ernet Sauvignon. Best from 2024 through 2036. 6,000
erything sail on and on. Gorgeous. Cabernet Sauvignon, cases made.—J.M.
Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Best from 2024
through 2040. 10,000 cases made.—J.M.
93 Château Latour-Martillac Pessac-Léognan
2018 $44 Sleek, with mesquite-infused cassis laced
96 Domaine de Chevalier Pessac-Léognan with an additional iron and sanguine thread. Finish picks
2018 $84 Dreamy, with a velvety, caressing feel to the up light savory and tobacco details. Cabernet Sauvignon,
flavors of warmed cassis, plum reduction and cherry pre- Merlot and Petit Verdot. Drink now through 2032.—J.M.
serves that glide through slowly, but surely, letting anise,
sweet tobacco and mineral accents peek in throughout.
93 Château Lespault-Martillac Pessac-Léognan
2018 $36 This is packed with red currant, blackberry
Very long, very refined. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and
and red and black cherry paste notes, supported by mouth-
Petit Verdot. Best from 2024 through 2038. 10,000 cases
made.—J.M.
watering bramble and sweet bay accents and carried
through the finish by a broad swath of tar. Built for the
96 Château La Mission Haut-Brion Pessac- cellar. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. Best
Léognan 2018 $359 Tightly packed, with its core of from 2024 through 2036. 2,500 cases made.—J.M.
steeped blackberry, black currant preserves and plum paste
notes bristling to emerge fully but held in check for now
93 Château La Mission Haut-Brion Pessac-
Léognan La Chapelle de la Mission Haut-Brion 2018
by a swath of tar, warmed licorice and sweet tobacco.
$87 This has an enticing set of steeped red and black
There’s a great tug of earth through the finish but the fruit
keeps the upper hand, even while closed, thanks to its
currant and mulled plum aromas and flavors, along with
black tea, savory and tar notes that cruise in on the long,
finishing kick. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Caber-
suave, mesquite-accented finish. Cabernet Sauvignon,
net Franc. Best from 2025 through 2040.—J.M.
Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2022 through
96 Château Pape Clément Pessac-Léognan 2034.—J.M.
2018 $NA A warm mocha note drapes elegantly over
a prodigious core of steeped red and black currant and
92 Château Couhins-Lurton Pessac-Léognan
2018 $37 Sleek, ripe and focused, with a lovely beam
blackberry fruit in this version, while waves of black tea,
anise, fruitcake and apple wood fill in on the finish. The
of cassis and plum reduction laced with red licorice and
floral notes and framed with a subtle mesquite hint on the
structure is serious and well-embedded. Really well put
iron-tinged finish. Drink now through 2028. 2,500 cases
together. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet
made.—J.M.
Franc. Best from 2025 through 2038.—J.M.
95 Château Haut-Bailly Pessac-Léognan 2018
92 Château de Fieuzal Pessac-Léognan 2018
$48 Plum and raspberry compote notes are juicy and
$127 Packed with steeped plum, blackberry and cassis
flavors, this also sports licorice root, apple wood and tar
delicious, while dark licorice, fruitcake and mesquite note
fill in on the finish. Nice tarry edge at the very end. Cab-
notes. Dense and shows a chewy edge, but it’s seriously
ernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Ver-
long, energetic and vibrant, so just cellar to let it unfurl.
dot. Best from 2022 through 2030. 7,000 cases made.—J.M.
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit
Verdot. Best from 2023 through 2038. 5,000 cases 92 Château La Garde Pessac-Léognan 2018
made.—J.M. $26 This shows a juicy, open-knit mix of sweet bay, sa-
vory, red currant and cherry reduction aromas and flavors,
94 Château Carbonnieux Pessac-Léognan 2018
with a tarry streak holding down the back end. A little
$45 Tightly drawn, with a cloak of alder and juniper
cellaring will tame its gutsy side. Cabernet Sauvignon,
over the core of steeped plum and black currant flavors.
Merlot and Petit Verdot. Best from 2022 through 2030.
Lots of tar, bramble, loam and sweet bay leaf accents score
13,650 cases made.—J.M.
the finish, which sports heft and muscle. Superb. Caber-
net Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. 92 Château Larrivet Haut-Brion Pessac-
Best from 2025 through 2038. 12,500 cases made.—J.M. Léognan 2018 $45 Sleek and fresh, with a pretty
beam of red currant and damson plum fruit lined with sa-
94 Château Haut-Brion Pessac-Léognan Le
vory and mineral notes. A subtle tar hint on the finish
Clarence de Haut-Brion 2018 $159 Ripe and rich,
adds some sneaky length. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot
but suave and elegant in style, letting its range of steeped
and Cabernet Franc. Drink now through 2029. Tasted
plum, warmed cassis and mulled black cherry fruit play
twice, with consistent notes. 11,665 cases made.—J.M.
out slowly while sweet tobacco, incense and black tea
notes swirl about. Very finely beaded acidity stretches out 92 Château Olivier Pessac-Léognan 2018 $40
the finish. Hard to resist now, but this has some time to Singed apple wood and licorice root notes lead the way
develop. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc in this slightly toothy version, with a mix of plum skin,
and Petit Verdot. Drink now through 2034.—J.M. cherry reduction, tar and bramble notes rambling through
the finish. Burly now, but it’s all there; just cellar a bit.
93 Château Branon Pessac-Léognan 2018 $NA
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Best from
This has a tarry edge that takes hold right away, while
2023 through 2032. 10,000 cases made.—J.M.
steeped plum and red currant fruit steadily emerge. Singed
mesquite and savory details on the finish add a mouthwa- 92 Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte Pessac-
tering hint. Textbook Pessac, with good reserves for cel- Léognan Le Petit Haut Lafitte 2018 $40 Ripe
laring. Drink now through 2032. 150 cases made.—J.M. and inviting, with waves of crushed plum, blackberry and
black currant fruit coursing along, inlaid with a tarry spine
93 Château Brown Pessac-Léognan 2018 $41
and backed by anise, apple wood and alder through the
Sleek, pure and refined, with cassis, damson plum and
finish. Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Best from 2023
cherry reduction flavors laced with subtle tar, graphite
through 2033. 6,650 cases made.—J.M.
and mesquite notes. Flashes of anise and red tea on the
fine-grained finish. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Pe-
tit Verdot. Best from 2022 through 2032. 4,100 cases
made.—J.M.
 New Releases: France

92 Domaine de la Solitude  96 Château Pape Clément Pessac-Léognan 93 Château Larrivet Haut-Brion Pessac-

Pessac-Léognan 2018 $31 A
tight, sleek style, with red currant,
loganberry and bitter cherry notes
streaming through, flecked with
savory and red tea hints along the
way. Ends with a nice flash of iron
on the well-focused finish. Caber-
net Sauvignon and Merlot. Best
from 2022 through 2034. 10,000 FLORENT LANÇON
cases made.—J.M. Winemaker
91 Domaine de Chevalier Pessac-Léognan
L’Esprit de Chevalier 2018 $37 Packed with plum
paste, cherry reduction, bramble and melted licorice notes
that are enlivened by sanguine and iron hints through the
finish. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Best
from 2022 through 2032. 8,333 cases made.—J.M.
91 Château de Cruzeau Pessac-Léognan 2018
$NA A dried savory edge leads off, quickly followed by
a juicy core of warmed cassis and plum reduction notes.
Nice brambly grip is well-embedded, while cedar, tobacco
and iron notes etch grooves on the finish. Cabernet Sau-
vignon and Merlot. Best from 2022 through 2030. 12,500
cases made.—J.M.
91 Château Haut-Bergey Pessac-Léognan 2018
$27 Plump and juicy, with bramble-edged red currant
and cherry paste flavors, showing a nice snap of licorice
on the back end, with a touch of singed mesquite. Caber-
net Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and
Malbec. Drink now through 2030. 5,833 cases made.—J.M.
91 Château Malartic-Lagravière Pessac-
Léognan 2018 $57 A fresh, forward style with a burst
of cherry preserves as well as plum sauce, melted red lico-
rice and singed vanilla notes. The juicy, friendly finish
has a late tug of tar. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit
Verdot and Cabernet Franc. Drink now through 2030.
10,000 cases made.—J.M
91 Château Le Thil Pessac-Léognan Comte
Clary 2018 $28 Plum and cassis notes are melded with
a tarry edge, picking up black licorice and well-roasted
apple wood along the way. Late iron twinge adds cut on
the finish. Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2022
through 2032. 708 cases made.—J.M.
White 2018 $NA A beauty from the start, with short-
bread, acacia and honeysuckle details leading the way,
quickly followed by fennel, tarragon, salted butter and
lemon peel notes. The long, focused finish is carried by
superfine acidity that puts everything in perfect lockstep.
Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon and Muscadelle. Best from
2022 through 2030.—J.M.
96 Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte Pessac-
Léognan White 2018 $118 This has a broad mix of
lemon peel, gooseberry, tarragon and star fruit flavors that
are holding back a bit for now, while wet straw, macada-
mia nut and shortbread accents emerge through the fin-
ish. Quite rich in feel throughout, but has the underlying
zip and cut for balance. Seriously long too. Sauvignon
Blanc, Sémillon and Sauvignon Gris. Best from 2022
through 2030. 2,083 cases made.—J.M.
94 Château Carbonnieux Pessac-Léognan
White 2018 $44 A brisk lemon pith note flanks a core
of lemon curd, honeysuckle, tarragon, oyster shell and
salted butter notes, with a hint of warm, herbed focaccia
on the finish adding range and contrast. Delicious. Sau-
vignon Blanc and Sémillon. Drink now through 2026.
10,835 cases made.—J.M.
94 Clos Marsalette Pessac-Léognan White
2018 $26 Savory, thyme and tarragon notes glisten
throughout this white, while the core of lemon peel, white
peach and yellow apple flavors provides a solid founda-
tion. This shows flashes of honeysuckle and straw through
the superpure, mineral-tinged finish. A lovely wine. Sau-
vignon Blanc and Sémillon. Drink now through 2026.
800 cases made.—J.M.
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Léognan White 2018 $41 Delightful from the start,
with a blast of honeysuckle and white peach notes lead-
ing the way, followed by innervating lemon curd, tarra-
gon, salted butter and acacia notes. Ends with a long, pure
finish. Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon. Drink now through
2026. 2,083 cases made.—J.M.
93 Château Latour-Martillac Pessac-Léognan
White 2018 $47 This offers a mix of marjoram, thyme
and fennel aromas backed with bright and engaging lemon
peel, white peach and tangerine notes. The long finish
ripples nicely with energy. Sauvignon Blanc and Sémil-
lon. Drink now through 2024.—J.M.
93 Domaine de la Solitude Pessac-Léognan
White 2018 $31 Racy and sleek in feel, with lime and
lemon pith notes streaking along, pulling tarragon, hon-
eysuckle and white peach flavors with them. A subtle
chalky underpinning keeps this honest on the finish.
Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc. Drink now through 2026.
1,500 cases made.—J.M.
92 Château de Fieuzal Pessac-Léognan White
2018 $57 This is plump, with a mix of star fruit, white
peach and lemon gelée notes, backed by straw and hon-
eysuckle through the finish. Sémillon and Sauvignon
Blanc. Drink now through 2023. 1,200 cases made.—J.M.
92 Château Haut-Brion Pessac-Léognan White
La Clarté de Haut-Brion 2018 $90 Very racy, with
a mix of wet stone, tangerine, dried lemon peel, tarragon
and thyme notes that are very well-defined from start to
finish. Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc. Drink now through
2027.—J.M.

FRANCE
Bordeaux / Pessac-Léognan /
White
The
Tasting
98 Château Haut-Brion Pessac-Léognan
White 2018 $857 A stunner from first sip, as lemon
shortbread and verbena notes lead off, followed by a tor-
rent of white peach, yellow apple, lime pith, honeysuckle
and acacia. Racy, almost piercing minerality knifes

Room
through the middle, adding a mouthwatering element,
while the shortbread and verbena take a curtain on the
finish, creating a beautiful balance of contrasts. Sauvignon
Blanc and Sémillon. Best from 2022 through 2038.—J.M.
97 Château La Mission Haut-Brion Pessac- BY WINE SPECTATOR
Léognan White 2018 $720 Intense, with a very
vibrant mix of tangerine, white peach, acacia, Meyer
lemon, thyme and verbena notes all getting a turn as they
race through. A long, salted butter note underscores the The Tasting Room is a new, quarterly opportunity to promote your Tasting Room or
finish. A wine that marries brightness and purity with Virtual Tasting Event to Wine Spectator’s 3.1 million affluent adventurers who travel
richness and opulence. Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon. near and far to explore their passion for wine.
Best from 2022 through 2034.—J.M.
96 Domaine de Chevalier Pessac-Léognan Your promotion will appear in print, e-blast and web — all for one low price.
White 2018 $110 Gorgeous, with both rich and racy
elements as lemon curd, shortbread and honeysuckle notes
contrast with lemon pith, thyme and fleur de sel. The long RESERVE YOUR SPACE TODAY!
finish has wet straw and paraffin hints, adding length and Contact: Cheryl Lewis, Vice President - West Coast Ad Director,
range. Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon. Drink now through
2030. 2,000 cases made.—J.M. clewis@mshanken.com | 415-673-2040 ext. 1

MARCH 31, 2021 • WINE SPECTATOR 87


92 Château Lespault-Martillac Pessac-Léognan
White 2018 $37 Straw, lemon pith and white peach
notes mix in this taut, nervy white, with salted butter and
tangerine echoes adding range through the finish. Sauvi-
gnon Blanc and Sémillon. Drink now through 2024. 500
cases made.—J.M.
91 Domaine de Chevalier Pessac-Léognan
White L’Esprit de Chevalier 2018 $37 Zingy, with
lemon peel, fennel seed, tarragon and thyme notes streak-
ing through, carried by mouthwatering acidity through
an energetic finish. Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc. Drink
now through 2023. 1,500 cases made.—J.M.
91 Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte Pessac-
Léognan White Les Hauts de Smith 2018 $40
This racy and mouthwatering version offers lemon peel,
star fruit and jicama notes, flecked with thyme along the
way. Sauvignon Blanc. Drink now through 2023. 1,250
cases made.—J.M.
FRANCE
Bordeaux / Pomerol & Satellites
96 Pétrus Pomerol 2018
$3,750 Plush and inviting, with
steeped red and black currant and
fig flavors that meld nicely with
fruitcake, Christmas pudding and
anise notes through the finish. A
subtle dark earth hint at the end
keeps this grounded. The vintage’s
slightly austere edge is here, but it’s
minimized by the fruit, helping this
stand apart from the pack. Best from
OLIVIER BERROUET
2023 through 2034.—J.M. Winemaker
95 Château Trotanoy Pomerol 2018 $396
There’s a velvety feel to the mix of crushed plum and
steeped fig and boysenberry fruit in this rich version, with
lots of dried anise, tobacco, charcoal and black tea curl-
ing around the finish, where a graphite spine is deeply
embedded. Well-structured for the cellar too. Best from
2023 through 2038. 1,375 cases made.—J.M.
94 Château L’Évangile Pomerol 2018 $250
Dark and winey, with a burly tobacco edge framing a core
of steeped black currant, blackberry and fig paste flavors.
There’s a strong tug of warm earth through the finish, where
bay leaf, leather and chestnut notes chime in. Merlot and
Cabernet Franc. Best from 2026 through 2036.—J.M.
94 Château La Fleur-Pétrus Pomerol 2018 $252
This offers a dark-hued mix of plum, blackberry and black
currant fruit that rolls through, unwinding to show anise,
warm stone and tobacco notes as it does. The savory- and
dark earth–tinged finish echoes lengthily. Merlot, Caber-
net Franc and Petit Verdot. Best from 2023 through 2036.
3,165 cases made.—J.M.
93 Château Certan de May Pomerol 2018 $153
This has a deep well of cassis, plum and blackberry pre-
serves flavors to draw on, while licorice snap, black tea
and roasted apple wood notes emerge with some air. Sol-
idly grippy back end with a nice tarry streak, showing good
energy. Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon.
Best from 2023 through 2035. 1,500 cases made.—J.M.
93 Château La Conseillante Pomerol 2018 $242
Nicely packed, with flavors of dark plum and black cur-
rant preserves wrapped with licorice root and warm earth
notes. Tobacco and bay leaf fill in on the finish, adding
energy and cut. Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Drink now
through 2034. 3,299 cases made.—J.M.
93 Château Hosanna Pomerol 2018 $183
This shows bay and tobacco leaf notes along the edges of
a core of steeped plum and blackberry fruit, all melding
together through the finish, where this ends with an echo
of warm earth. Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Drink now
through 2035. 942 cases made.—J.M.
88 WINE SPECTATOR • MARCH 31, 2021
New Releases: France
93 Château Nénin Pomerol 2018 $77 Ripe
and even a bit showy (atypical for the vintage), with plum,
blackberry and blueberry notes bursting forth, backed by
licorice and fruitcake accents. Starts to show its spine
through the finish, with a tug of warm stone and tobacco
adding contrast and cut. Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Best
from 2022 through 2035. 2,500 cases made.—J.M.
92 Clos L’Église Pomerol 2018 $100 Enticing,
with macerated fig and plum notes forming the core, while
dark tea and savory notes course underneath. Hints of wet
stone and charcoal echo at the end. Merlot and Cabernet
Franc. Drink now through 2032. 1,665 cases made.—J.M.
92 Château du Domaine de L’Église Pomerol
2018 $63 This version offers cashmere-textured
flavors of crushed plum and black currant preserves that
are laced with a mouthwatering anise note and backed
by a spark of savory through the graphite-edged finish.
Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Drink now through 2034.
3,000 cases made.—J.M.
92 Château La Fleur de Gay Pomerol 2018 $128
Bright and fresh, with a mix of cherry, plum and raspberry
notes that are steeped with dark tea and laced with alder
and savory threads through the finish. Solid, textbook
example of the vintage. Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Best
from 2022 through 2034.—J.M.
92 Château Latour à Pomerol Pomerol 2018
$106 Very silky and alluring in feel, with lovely black-
berry and boysenberry puree flavors gliding through, laced
with subtle anise and black tea. Savory hints dot the fin-
ish while the fruit and spice play out languidly. Drink now
through 2032. 2,200 cases made.—J.M.
92 Château Petit-Village Pomerol 2018 $75
Dark plum and blackberry compote flavors fill this out
nicely, while licorice, sweet spice and black tea notes glide
in on the back end. Warm stone hint through the finish
gives it the slightly austere spine of the vintage. Solidly
built. Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon.
Best from 2022 through 2034. 2,500 cases made.—J.M.
91 Château La Croix du Casse Pomerol 2018
$36 Steeped black currant, fig paste and cherry reduc-
tion flavors have a rich and caressing feel, while black tea
and incense add range and intrigue on the finish. Merlot
and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2022 through 2030. 4,000
cases made.—J.M.
91 La Fleur de Boüard Lalande-de-Pomerol
2018 $32 Stylish, with a mocha hint out front followed
quickly by steeped cherry and plum fruit flavors. Nice
licorice coating on the velvety finish. A bit reliant on its
toast, but will certainly have fans. Merlot, Cabernet Franc
and Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now through 2025.
10,833 cases made.—J.M.
91 Château de Sales Pomerol 2018 $35 Silky
and refined in feel, with alluring dark tea, dried anise,
mulled plum and steeped black cherry notes gliding
through in unison. Bay leaf note twinkles on the finish.
Drink now through 2031. 6,800 cases made, 1,000 cases
imported.—J.M.
FRANCE
Bordeaux / St.-Emilion
98 Château Pavie St.-Emilion 2018 $365 See
Highly Recommended, page 79.
97 Château Cheval-Blanc St.-Emilion 2018
$750 This has the vintage’s profile, with a sleek and
slightly austere frame holding a core of cassis, bitter cherry
and raspberry coulis notes tightly together while flashes
of bay, dried anise and savory add range and detail. Has a
late tug of warm earth along with a very perfumy echo
through the finish. A beauty. Merlot, Cabernet Franc and
Cabernet Sauvignon. Best from 2024 through 2038.
10,208 cases made.—J.M.
96 Château Bellevue-Mondotte St.-Emilion
2018 $145 Suave and alluring toast and melted lico-
rice notes draped over a core of warmed plum, raspberry
and blackberry confiture flavors make this a real head-
turner. Very polished and focused in feel, thanks to a bur-
ied graphite hint that keeps it all honest. A beautiful wine.
Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. Best
from 2022 through 2038.—J.M.
96 Château Canon-La Gaffelière St.-Emilion
2018 $96 This features a lovely core of mulled cassis,
damson plum and raspberry reduction notes, framed with
an apple wood note that integrates nicely while red tea,
savory and chalky mineral notes develop through the fin-
ish. A restrained style, precise and very long. Merlot, Cab-
ernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. Best from 2024
through 2038. 5,833 cases made.—J.M.
96 Château Figeac St.-Emilion 2018 $NA Sleek
and tightly focused, this is a racy style marked by a pure
beam of cassis and cherry puree, infused with red tea, ber-
gamot and bay leaf hints. Very fresh and refined through
the finish, with a long chalky thread lingering at the end.
Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Best
from 2024 through 2038. 10,830 cases made.—J.M.
96 La Mondotte St.-Emilion 2018 $247
This packs in solid plum sauce, cassis and cherry reduc-
tion aromas and flavors that hold sway throughout while
hints of roasted alder, sweet tobacco and ganache fill in.
Lovely, buried minerality keeps it all well-supported. Built
for the cellar. Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2024
through 2038. 1,500 cases made.—J.M.
96 Château Pavie Macquin 
St.-Emilion 2018 $79 This
sleek, pure, aromatic and stream-
lined red offers lovely cassis, cherry
puree, violet and mesquite notes
tightly wound together, while anise
and savory hints peek in. The long
finish is carried by chalky mineral-
ity. A wine of poise. Merlot, Caber-
net Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon.
Best from 2024 through 2037. 5,500 NICOLAS THIENPONT
cases made.—J.M. General Manager
96 Château Pavie-Decesse St.-Emilion 2018
$130 A stunner, with waves of cassis, creamed raspberry
and plum reduction that are thoroughly seductive while
staying focused and driven thanks to a deeply embedded
graphite edge. There’s melted licorice, sweet toast and
warmed anise notes for extra sparkle throughout, while
the fruit just pumps on the through the finish. Merlot and
Cabernet Franc. Best from 2025 through 2040.—J.M.
95 Château Beauséjour Duffau-Lagarosse 
St.-Emilion 2018 $142 A head-turner, with velvety-
textured cassis, plum sauce and cherry reduction flavors
gliding through with a bit of panache thanks to bitter-
sweet cocoa, black tea and dried anise notes. Chalky min-
erality extends the finish and leaves a mouthwatering
echo. Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2024 through
2038. 1,165 cases made.—J.M.
95 Château Bélair-Monange St.-Emilion 2018
$207 A restrained style, with gently mulled currant and
black cherry notes forming the core while hints of anise,
apple wood and sweet tobacco peek through on the fin-
ish. Long, fine chalky minerality extends the finish as the
fruit plays out gracefully. Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Best
from 2023 through 2036. 2,665 cases made.—J.M.
95 Château Canon St.-Emilion 2018 $160
Ripe and focused, with a core of plum, black cherry and
raspberry compote notes that are still a bit coiled up,
though inlaid with a racy chalky spine and notes of black
tea and tobacco that should all meld as it stretches out in
the cellar. A restrained, refined and lengthy wine that
drips with class. Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Best from
2024 through 2038.—J.M.
 New Releases: France
95 Clos Fourtet St.-Emilion 2018 $125
Juicy, winey and very compact in feel, with racy acidity
and chalky minerality embedded deeply in the core of
sleek cassis, bitter cherry and damson plum flavors. Nice
flecks of savory and dried anise dot the finish, where
everything echoes nicely. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon
and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2024 through 2038. 2,900
cases made.—J.M.
95 Château Monbousquet St.-Emilion 2018
$60 Espresso crema and melted black licorice aromas
give way to a lush range of cassis, plum reduction and
blackberry confiture flavors that roll through with author-
ity. The long finish is carried by a buried graphite note
and hints of smoldering earth. An amped-in style, but if
you like muscle and panache, you’ll dig this. Merlot, Cab-
ernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. Best from 2022
through 2038.—J.M.
95 Château Rocheyron St.-Emilion 2018 $108
This is very suave right from the start, with a velvety-
textured wave of cassis, warmed plum sauce and steeped
cherries leading the way, while black tea, alder, bay leaf
and sweet tobacco notes fill in behind. Buried minerality
on the very fine-grained finish. Serious juice. Merlot and
Cabernet Franc. Best from 2023 through 2036. Tasted
twice, with consistent notes. 1,000 cases made.—J.M.
95 Château Valandraud St.-Emilion 2018 $170
This shows off a range of loganberry, black currant and fig
notes that are enticing in feel thanks to racy acidity, while
singed sandalwood, incense and bay leaf details line the
finish. Sneaky length too. Lovely. Merlot, Cabernet Franc,
Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec. Best from 2023 through
2036. 2,915 cases made.—J.M.
94 Château Barde-Haut St.-Emilion 2018 $42
Alluring, with a very focused set of cassis, plum reduction
and cherry preserves flavors coursing through atop a well-
embedded graphite spine, all while black tea, chalky min-
erality and subtle herb nuances play out through the long
finish. Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2022
through 2035. 6,650 cases made.—J.M.
94 Château Beau-Séjour Bécot St.-Emilion 2018
$65 Juicy, with a mix of fig, blackberry and black cur-
rant fruit laced with light bramble, anise, bay and tobacco
notes. There’s good energy through the finish, with a late
minerally tug. Relies on purity and elegance overall. Mer-
lot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. Best from
2023 through 2034. 8,750 cases made.—J.M.
94 Château de Ferrand St.-Emilion 2018 $45
Fresh and direct, with cassis and bitter plum fruit stitched
together with chalky minerality, while subtle dried laven-
der, tobacco and alder notes emerge through the finish.
There’s some depth in reserve here too, so cellar for maxi-
mum effect. Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2023
through 2036. 10,000 cases made, 500 cases imported.—J.M.
94 Château La Gaffelière St.-Emilion 2018 $76
Expressive and pure, with a long, refined set of cassis, bit-
ter cherry and damson plum flavors entwined with bright
savory and taut chalky mineral notes. The fruit darkens a
bit through the finish, which adds some flesh and drive as
this airs in the glass. Very solid. Merlot and Cabernet Franc.
Best from 2023 through 2036. 6,250 cases made.—J.M.
94 L’If St.-Emilion 2018 $190 This is a tightly
focused wine, with racy damson plum and cassis notes
leading off, while floral, incense and black tea notes swirl
around. The finish is driven and pure, with a seamlessly
inlaid chalky minerality leaving a mouthwatering impres-
sion. Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2023 through
2036. 625 cases made.—J.M.
94 Château Troplong Mondot St.-Emilion 2018
$140 This shows the profile of the vintage, with a touch
of plum pit and savory austerity along the edges of a core
of red and black currant and cherry paste flavors. Shows
late tugs of warm earth and tobacco on the finish. Merlot,
Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2023
through 2035. 8,333 cases made.—J.M.
Open up your
93 Clos de l’Oratoire St.-Emilion 2018 $44
Dried herb, floral and steeped cherry and damson plum
notes are layered tightly together, while mouthwatering
sanguine and iron hints run alongside. A long, very pre-
cise and mineral-driven style, with a sandalwood edge to
the finish. Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2022 — Newsletters.WineSpectator.com —
through 2032. 4,000 cases made.—J.M.
93 Clos St.-Martin St.-Emilion 2018 $88 Very
stylish, with flecks of dried herb scattered amid a very pure
Get the scoop on how wine
intersects with film, TV, music,
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coulis flavors. The racy, focused finish has a latent min-
eral twinge too. Lovely. Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cab-
ernet Sauvignon. Best from 2022 through 2032. 440 cases
made.—J.M.
93 Château Fleur Cardinale St.-Emilion 2018
$41 Ripe and focused, with red and black currant fruit
flavors that have a racy edge, mixed with hints of anise, Love the restaurant world? This
bramble and steeped dark tea developing through the fin- newsletter puts the spotlight on Wine
Spectator’s award-winning wine lists.
ish. Very solid. Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Plus, chef comings and goings, and
Sauvignon. Best from 2022 through 2034. 10,000 cases Sommelier Talk.
made, 2,500 cases imported.—J.M.
93 Château Fonplégade St.-Emilion 2018 $76
This is nicely packed with plum, black cherry and boy-
This email alerts you when we’ve
senberry compote flavors that have good energy, backed added new wines from your
by a mix of savory, violet, anise and apple wood notes favorite regions to our database.
through the finish. A buried chalky spine should help this Just set up your preferences and
we do the rest!
age nicely in the cellar too. Drink now through 2030.
3,000 cases made, 300 cases imported.—J.M.
93 Château Fonroque St.-Emilion 2018 $41
Dark plum and blackberry compote notes form the core,
while hints of licorice snap and fruitcake form the back- Get a great new value wine
recommendation in each weekly
drop. Nice grippy, tarry streak on the finish adds length edition, plus recipes and tips on
and drive. Should cellar well. Merlot and Cabernet Franc. wine, food and travel.
Best from 2022 through 2034. 2,916 cases made.—J.M.
93 Château Les Grandes Murailles St.-Emilion
2018 $60 Pure and ripe, with a delightful set of cassis,
plum and anise notes that stretch out in unison while a
subtle graphite note adds spine on the finish. Very stylish. Learn how wine can contribute to a
healthy lifestyle, with our biweekly
Best from 2022 through 2030. 500 cases made.—J.M.
93 Château Larcis Ducasse St.-Emilion 2018
reports on new research, plus
wellness tips.
$80 Flavors of warm cherry, raspberry and plum pre-
serves form the core of this red, with nicely polished
structure supporting it through the finish where anise,
black tea, singed alder and savory details steadily emerge.
A touch austere in feel, but the breed and length is there.
A new collectible wine pick in
Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2023 through 2035. each biweekly edition, plus
2,416 cases made.—J.M. expert tips on collecting, auction
news and analysis.
93 Château Peby Faugères St.-Emilion 2018
$184 Juicy and direct, with a tasty mix of plum and
blackberry cobbler notes infused with tea, sandalwood
and dried anise notes that add freshness to the mix. Nice
Don’t miss a single video. Our free,
fine-grained finish is sneaky long. Lots to like here. Best
biweekly e-mail newsletter alerts you
from 2022 through 2032. 650 cases made.—J.M. to every new video, plus favorites from
93 Château Sansonnet St.-Emilion 2018 $45
our vault.
Dark currant, fig and blackberry paste flavors are entwined
FOR THE TRADE
with singed alder, dried tobacco and iron-tinged mineral-
ity. There’s nice drive through the finish too. Merlot,
Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. Best from 2022
through 2034. 2,800 cases made, 500 cases imported.—J.M.
News, features and new product
92 Château Berliquet St.-Emilion 2018 $65 announcements for wine and
spirits retailers
This is delightful, with a fine chalky thread running
through the middle of gently crushed plum and black
cherry fruit flavors, while sweet tobacco and bay leaf ac-
cents hang in the background. Sneaky long. Merlot and
Fun.
Cabernet Franc. Drink now through 2032.—J.M.
92 Château Côte de Baleau St.-Emilion 2018
$24 Stylish, with creamed plum and cherry reduction
notes carried by a velvety structure, picking up anise, black Informative.
tea and incense accents along the way. The finish is
detailed and finely grained, with a subtle minerality lin- Free.
gering at the very end. Drink now through 2032. 6,317
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cases made.—J.M.
Newsletters.WineSpectator.com
MARCH 31, 2021 • WINE SPECTATOR 89

92 Château Dassault St.-Emilion 2018 $69
A very fresh, focused style, with damson plum and cherry
coulis notes leading the way, while red tea, dark earth and
iron notes develop steadily through the back half. Offers
good latent grip. Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet
Sauvignon. Best from 2022 through 2034. 2,900 cases
made.—J.M.
92 Château La Dominique St.-Emilion 2018 $63
Ripe and succulent in feel, with a mix of blackberry, rasp-
berry and plum fruit tossed with anise and apple wood
notes and backed by a subtle savory edge on the lively
finish. Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon.
Best from 2022 through 2032. 6,250 cases made.—J.M.
92 Château Faugères St.-Emilion 2018 $48
Flavors of black cherry and plum preserves are fresh and
well-defined, with anise, violet and black tea notes gild-
ing the finish. A nicely inlaid graphite edge gives this
structure, but that stays in the background, letting the
fruit play out. Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet
Sauvignon. Best from 2022 through 2032. 5,000 cases
made.—J.M.
92 Château Fleur Cardinale St.-Emilion La Croix
Cardinale 2018 $28 This glides in seductively, with
crushed plum, warmed raspberry compote and black cur-
rant paste flavors that have subtle energy, while hints of
black tar, singed alder and savory underscore the finish.
For more near-term consumption, thanks to its copious
fruit. Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Drink now through
2030. 1,916 cases made, 480 cases imported.—J.M.
92 Château Laroque St.-Emilion 2018 $28
This has some frank ripeness, with a mix of dark plum,
loganberry and cherry paste flavors. They’re integrated
nicely though, with a sandalwood and dried anise spine
for form through the refined finish. Best from 2022
through 2032. 11,250 cases made.—J.M.
92 Château Pavie St.-Emilion Arômes de
Pavie 2018 $102 Quite ripe and inviting, offering
warmed raspberry and boysenberry compote flavors that
are focused, with anise, graphite and sweet toast accents
lending a hand. A bit dressed up, but will certainly have
fans. Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon.
Drink now through 2029.—J.M.
92 Château Quintus St.-Emilion 2018 $135
Plum, black cherry and cassis notes are seamlessly layered,
while a bright mineral streak races underneath them. The
finish pulls in subtle floral details while the fruit and min-
erality meld together. Nice length. Merlot and Cabernet
Franc. Best from 2022 through 2032.—J.M.
92 Château La Serre St.-Emilion 2018 $76
Fresh, ripe and engaging, with a mix of plum, raspberry
and cherry compote notes taking the lead, while light red
licorice, apple wood and savory details dot the finish. Ap-
proachable now, but no rush. Merlot and Cabernet Franc.
Best from 2022 through 2032. 2,000 cases made.—J.M.
92 Château Trotte Vieille St.-Emilion 2018 $98
Tilts to old school in style, with a mix of savory, warm
raspberry coulis, sandalwood, red tea and bitter cherry
paste notes mixed together. Finish has good cut and per-
sistence, with a fine-grained cedar note framing it all.
Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Best
from 2022 through 2034. 3,000 cases made.—J.M.
91 Château La Couspaude St.-Emilion 2018 $48
This has a solidly built core of red and black currant fruit
spliced with an alder streak and backed by subtle black
tea and mineral accents through the finish. Merlot, Cab-
ernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. Best from 2022
through 2032. 3,000 cases made, 750 cases imported.—J.M.
91 Château Jean Faure St.-Emilion 2018 $34
Stylish and pure, with damson plum, cassis and bergamot
notes racing along, lined with red tea, mineral and iron
hints on the finish. Shows nice precision. Cabernet Franc,
Merlot and Malbec. Drink now through 2028. 4,000 cases
made.—J.M.
90 WINE SPECTATOR • MARCH 31, 2021
New Releases: France
91 Château Pierre St.-Emilion 1er 2018 $30
Ripe and solid in feel, with a toast and licorice frame
wrapped around a core of steeped plum and black currant
preserves. Tobacco accent on the finish adds some cut.
Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Drink now through 2030.
1,500 cases imported.—J.M.
91 Château Poesia St.-Emilion 2018 $35 Ripe
and forward, with flavors of plum and cherry preserves
laced with a licorice streak and backed by light tobacco
and chalky mineral hints on the finish. Merlot and Cab-
ernet Franc. Drink now through 2030. Tasted twice, with
consistent notes. 2,916 cases made.—J.M.
91 Château St.-Georges-Côte-Pavie St.-Emilion
2018 $38 Ripe, focused dark plum and cassis flavors
drive this wine, along with licorice, singed alder and a
late tug of warm earth. Solidly built from start to finish.
Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Drink now through 2030.
1,665 cases made.—J.M.
90 Château Béard La Chapelle St.-Emilion
2018 $26 Charming, with a seductive feel to its mix
of steeped plum and boysenberry fruit lined with dried
anise and mesquite and ending with a whiff of black tea.
Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Drink now through 2026.
Tasted twice, with consistent notes. 2,500 cases made,
750 cases imported.—J.M.
90 Château Fombrauge St.-Emilion 2018 $30
Dark plum and blackberry fruit glides through nicely, laced
with sweet spice, black tea and alder hints through the
suave finish. Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Cab-
ernet Sauvignon. Drink now through 2026. 24,000 cases
made, 5,000 cases imported.—J.M.
90 Château La Grâce Dieu St.-Emilion 2018 $39
A light savory hint leads off, followed quickly by flavors
of plum and cherry preserves that are carried by a sleek
structure. Light licorice and floral notes score the finish.
Shows charm and purity. Merlot and Cabernet Franc.
Drink now through 2028. 1,000 cases imported.—J.M.
90 Château Grand Corbin Manuel St.-Emilion
2018 $35 A sweet toast note leads off, followed by
succulent flavors of plum and boysenberry preserves. The
finish has a bright licorice streak and hint of singed wood.
Stays fresh throughout. Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cab-
ernet Sauvignon. Drink now through 2028. 6,000 cases
made, 2,000 cases imported.—J.M.
FRANCE
Bordeaux / St.-Estèphe
96 Château Cos-d’Estournel St.-Estèphe 2018
$207 This is a bird of a different feather, offering a
ripe, sleek and very polished feel as creamed loganberry,
plum and boysenberry flavors spill forth, flanked for sup-
port by singed alder and incense notes, while black tea
and savory threads curl around the finish. Long, showy
and lovely. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc
and Petit Verdot. Best from 2024 through 2038. 16,600
cases made.—J.M.
95 Château Calon-Ségur St.-Estèphe 2018 $155
Ripe, fresh and well-defined from start to finish, this lets
cassis and dark plum notes race through, carried by a
graphite edge and backed with dark tobacco, warm earth
and chestnut accents on the finish. Has serious grip and
drive. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and
Petit Verdot. Best from 2024 through 2038.—J.M.
95 Château Montrose St.-Estèphe 2018 $193
Dark and winey, with a well-built core laden with cassis
and dark plum puree while flashes of anise, lilac and char-
coal fill in throughout. Finish has hints of chestnut and
warm earth for a burly edge, but there’s ample fruit for
balance. Plenty grippy in the end too; cellaring required.
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit
Verdot. Best from 2023 through 2036. Tasted twice, with
consistent notes.—J.M.
93 Château Phélan Ségur St.-Estèphe 2018 $53
This is really well-built, with a core of dark currant and
blackberry paste flavors supported by racy charcoal and
bay notes while flashes of savory and singed sandalwood
dot the finish. Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Best from
2024 through 2035.—J.M.
92 Château Cos-d’Estournel St.-Estèphe Les
Pagodes de Cos 2018 $61 This has some alluring
fruit, with a mix of creamed plum and loganberry infused
with singed woodspice and alder notes. Stylish, with a
flash of dark earth on the otherwise polished finish. Cab-
ernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Ver-
dot. Drink now through 2032. 8,330 cases made.—J.M.
92 Château Le Crock St.-Estèphe 2018 $35
This has a frankly ripe edge, with plum and black cherry
notes showing a caressing feel, while racy bay, charcoal
and tobacco notes flow underneath. Hints of leather and
humus emerge through the finish, while the fruit has the
staying power to match them. Solid range and character.
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet
Franc. Best from 2022 through 2033. 7,640 cases made,
56 cases imported.—J.M.
92 Château Lafon-Rochet St.-Estèphe 2018
$55 Seductive, with a gush of dark plum and blackberry
preserves leading off, while light bay leaf, dark tobacco
and charcoal notes peek through. This has a racy edge
through the finish, even with the warm fruit keeping the
upper hand. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot
and Cabernet Franc. Drink now through 2032.—J.M.
92 Château de Pez St.-Estèphe 2018 $60
Fresh red currant and bitter cherry notes are laced with
floral and chalk notes in this red, which is piercing in feel
through the finish, with the fruit and minerality in lock-
step as a touch of cedar appears, leaving a mouthwatering
edge. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and
Petit Verdot. Drink now through 2032.—J.M.
91 Château Ormes de Pez St.-Estèphe 2018
$36 Ripe and lively, with an iron twinge right from the
start that pierces the core of red currant and bitter cherry
fruit flavors. Lilac, charcoal and savory details dot the
racy, mouthwatering finish. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon,
Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Drink now through
2031.—J.M.
90 Château Calon-Ségur St.-Estèphe Château
Capbern 2018 $27 Offers a mix of olive, bay leaf and
pepper notes that are wrangling with a core of dark currant
and plum fruit right now. The structure is fine-grained and
everything knits nicely through the finish, but this is for
fans of the slightly gamy side. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot
and Petit Verdot. Best from 2022 through 2029.—J.M.
90 Château Lilian Ladouys St.-Estèphe 2018
$30 This has a nice winey core of steeped red and black
currant fruit laced with bay, charcoal, savory and olive
notes. The fruit keeps pace through the mineral-edged
finish, with a late tug of dark earth. Solid, if just slightly
on the rustic side of the stylistic ledger. Cabernet Sauvi-
gnon, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Best from 2022 through
2031. 28,300 cases made.—J.M.
FRANCE
Bordeaux / St.-Julien
97 Château Léoville Barton St.-Julien 2018
$93 See Highly Recommended, page 79.
97 Château Léoville Las Cases St.-Julien 2018
$271 Reserved, even reticent, at first, but like a cold
fireplace brought back to life it slowly reveals beautifully
handcrafted notes of cassis, plum reduction and blackberry
puree along with hints of charcoal, warm cast iron and
sweet bay leaf. A violet note chimes on the seriously long
finish, adding a tantalizing treble note. A precise, regal,
terroir-driven wine. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cab-
ernet Franc. Best from 2028 through 2042. 10,000 cases
made.—J.M.

97 Château Léoville Poyferré St.-Julien 2018
$104 Waves of warmed cassis, mocha and warm tar aro-
mas lead the way, while the core of macerated plum, black-
berry and blueberry fruit waits its turn, showing admirable
breadth and depth when it arrives, with roasted apple
wood, bramble and cast iron buried deeply through the
finish. This is a powerfully rendered wine with a cashmere
scarf as accent. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet
Franc and Petit Verdot. Best from 2024 through 2040.
15,000 cases made.—J.M.
95 Château Beychevelle St.-Julien 2018 $93
Violet and warm cassis aromas and flavors lead off in this
version, melding with apple wood, ganache, açaí berry
and blueberry reduction notes along the way. Almost lush
in the end, but there’s a buried tarry streak giving it just
a bit of grippy texture for contrast. Serious juice. Merlot,
Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc.
Best from 2023 through 2038.—J.M.
95 Château St.-Pierre St.-Julien 2018 $65
Sports a beam of cassis, plum puree and blackberry sauce
running through the middle, while roasted apple wood,
violet and sweet tobacco notes run along the edges. Ev-
erything meets and then extends through the finish, with
an echo of warm cast iron at the very end. Cabernet Sau-
vignon and Merlot. Best from 2024 through 2038.—J.M.
95 Château Talbot St.-Julien 2018 $67 This
is densely packed with ripe macerated fig, blackberry and
plum fruit flavors supported by tar and bramble notes that
meld steadily through the finish. Notes of apple wood and
anise flash throughout. For the cellar. Cabernet Sauvi-
gnon, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Best from 2023 through
2036. 21,665 cases made.—J.M.
94 Château Branaire-Ducru St.-Julien 2018 $61
Pure and driven, with expressive cassis and plum puree
aromas and flavors carried by a graphite edge and backed
with apple wood, licorice root and tobacco notes. Lovely
energy throughout. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit
Verdot and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2022 through 2037.
18,000 cases made.—J.M.
94 Clos du Marquis St.-Julien 2018 $60
Pure and expressive, with beautiful aromas of violet, warm
cassis and fresh cherry leading into flavors of plum sauce
and blackberry preserves carried by a well-embedded graph-
ite spine. Lovely, with a subtle kiss of sweet bay leaf at the
very end. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc.
Best from 2023 through 2038. 3,750 cases made.—J.M.
94 Château Gruaud-Larose  erality and a hint of anise through the finish. Drink now
St.-Julien 2018 $81 This has a
bit of polish to its mix of cassis,
crushed plum and blackberry fruit
flavors before a wave of bittersweet
cocoa, tobacco, and iron score the
finish. But while muscular and
grippy in the end, there’s ample
freshness here throughout. Caber-
net Sauvignon, Merlot and Caber-
net Franc. Best from 2023 through JEAN MERLAUT
2036. 12,133 cases made.—J.M. Owner
94 Château Langoa Barton St.-Julien 2018 $57
Ripe and focused, with a lovely core of steeped plum, fig
and cassis notes laced liberally with graphite and apple
wood. A violet note chimes bright on the finish. Abso-
lutely rock solid. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cab-
ernet Franc. Best from 2023 through 2036. 7,800 cases
made.—J.M.
93 Château Gloria St.-Julien 2018 $46 Fresh
and energetic, with violet, licorice and cassis aromas and
flavors spilling forth while bramble and graphite run un-
derneath. Apple wood streak gives the finish some spine.
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet
Franc. Best from 2022 through 2035.—J.M.
92 WINE SPECTATOR • MARCH 31, 2021
New Releases: France
93 Château Lagrange St.-Julien 2018 $54
This is rock-solid Cabernet, with mouthwatering black
currant and blackberry fruit flavors laced with a graphite
edge and innervated with bramble, tobacco, bay leaf and
violet notes through the finish. Cabernet Sauvignon,
Merlot and Petit Verdot. Best from 2023 through 2035.
20,800 cases made.—J.M.
90 Château Gruaud-Larose St.-Julien Sarget
de Gruaud-Larose 2018 $35 Juicy and energetic,
with cassis and dark plum fruit flavors laced with sweet
tobacco and violet notes. A nice apple wood note frames
the racy finish. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot
and Cabernet Franc. Drink now through 2028. 19,276
cases made.—J.M.
90 Château Lagrange St.-Julien Les Fiefs de
Lagrange 2018 $33 Well-focused, with a racy beam
of cassis and dark plum fruit laced with violet and anise
hints. The sleek finish has a tinge of singed wood at the
very end. Approachable now. Cabernet Sauvignon, Mer-
lot and Petit Verdot. Drink now through 2028. 17,500
cases made.—J.M.
90 Château Talbot St.-Julien Connétable
Talbot 2018 $33 Bright, ripe and defined, with bay
leaf, violet, cassis and dark plum fruit all racing along in
unison. Shows excellent energy and tension through the
finish. Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now
through 2028. 18,335 cases made.—J.M.
FRANCE
Bordeaux / Other Red
92 Clos Lunelles Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux
2018 $27 A lush, showy style, with waves of warmed
cassis and plum reduction cascading over alluring mocha
and sweet tobacco notes. Polished and suave through the
lengthy finish. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Caber-
net Franc. Drink now through 2027.—J.M.
92 Château Dalem Fronsac 2018 $27 Graceful
in feel, this delivers cassis and bitter plum notes infused
with bergamot and floral hints that all carry through a
refined, mineral-tinged finish. A charming, understated
wine. Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now
through 2030. 6,600 cases made.—J.M.
92 Château Fontenil Fronsac 2018 $24 Black
cherry and cassis notes are fresh and unencumbered in
feel, carried by silky structure and infused with subtle min-
through 2030. 4,450 cases made.—J.M.
92 Château La Vieille Cure Fronsac 2018 $22
This has a succulent feel, pulling you into its fresh plum,
cherry and raspberry coulis flavors while bergamot and red
tea accents stay in the background. The finish is juicy but
tightly focused, with an underlying chalky thread lending
precision. Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvi-
gnon. Drink now through 2030. 7,633 cases made.—J.M.
92 Château Vrai Canon Bouché Canon-Fronsac
2018 $33 Pure and racy, with damson plum and cassis
notes streaming along, flanked with savory, lilac and ber-
gamot notes and carried by a refined minerality through
the finish. Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec. Drink
now through 2030. 4,333 cases made.—J.M.
91 Clos Floridène Graves 2018 $23 Stylish,
with cherry, currant and plum notes that glide through,
supported by a kiss of toast and notes of red tea and tobacco
leaf. Ends with a subtle iron twinge through the finish.
Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Drink now through 2028.
4,900 cases made, 1,100 cases imported.—J.M.
91 Château de la Huste Fronsac 2018 $25
Focused and fresh in feel, with some bouncy energy to
the mix of damson plum, red currant and cherry compote
flavors. A late floral flurry on the finish adds charm. Mer-
lot and Cabernet Franc. Drink now through 2030. 7,500
cases made.—J.M.
91 Château Moulin Haut-Laroque Fronsac 2018
$22 Juicy and compact, with red currant and black
cherry fruit trying to burst out while light savory, singed
cedar and floral notes dart through. There’s a light chalky
thread on the finish, which isn’t dense, but does have
ample energy. Very engaging. Merlot, Cabernet Franc,
Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec. Drink now through
2028. 3,750 cases made.—J.M.
90 Château Crabitey Graves 2018 $23 Dark
cherry and red currant fruit melds with notes of red tea
and warm earth. A light alder thread stitches up the juicy
finish. Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Best from 2022
through 2027. 7,500 cases made, 800 cases imported.—J.M.
90 Château Haura Graves 2018 $16 This
delivers a nice burst of damson plum and red currant cou-
lis flavors, laced liberally with floral and red tea notes
through the finish. Fresh and pure. Cabernet Sauvignon
and Merlot. Drink now through 2026. 4,800 cases made,
1,400 cases imported.—J.M.
90 Château Les Trois Croix Fronsac 2018 $20
High-pitched, with chalk and lilac notes out front, fol-
lowed by flavors of damson plum, cherry and red currant
fruit. A light singed cedar accent peeks through on the
finish. Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Drink now through
2027. 5,166 cases made.—J.M.
89 Château de Chantegrive Graves 2018 $22
Bright and fresh, with damson plum and red currant
coulis notes laced with sanguine and herb hints. Not big,
but the finish is sneakily long. Drink now through 2026.
12,500 cases made, 2,500 cases imported.—J.M.
88 Château de Pitray Castillon Côtes de
Bordeaux 2018 $12 Nicely rendered, with a mineral
edge running amid the damson plum and red currant fruit,
while light-handed toast allows the finish to have a pure,
unadorned feel. Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec.
Drink now through 2024. 12,000 cases made, 4,000 cases
imported.—J.M.
87 Château Baracan Cadillac Côtes de
Bordeaux 2018 $17 Lightly mulled plum fruit is
laced with light mesquite and sanguine hints, followed by
a moderate, rounded-off finish. Cabernet Sauvignon, Mer-
lot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Drink now. 15,000
cases made, 4,000 cases imported.—J.M.
87 Château Hyot Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux
2018 $25 A toasty style, with a vanilla note draped
over flavors of warmed plum and cherry preserves. A sa-
vory streak adds to the finish. Merlot, Cabernet Franc and
Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now through 2022. 16,600
cases made, 8,000 cases imported.—J.M.
86 Château Carignan Cadillac Côtes de
Bordeaux L’Orangerie 2018 $20 High-toned,
with pomegranate and bitter cherry notes backed by a
light dusting of cedar on the open-knit finish. Merlot,
Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Drink now.
50,000 cases made, 10,000 cases imported.—J.M.
FRANCE
Bordeaux / Other White
97 Château Margaux Bordeaux Pavillon Blanc
2018 $250 This ripples with tension as the core of
gooseberry, chalk, white asparagus and fleur de sel is chis-
eled and taut while the sides of the wine glisten with flo-
ral notes. There’s a late flurry of thyme and tarragon for
additional range and length, as if it needed any. About as
pure and unencumbered an expression of a grape as you
can get. Drink now through 2028. 833 cases made.—J.M.
94 Château Valandraud Bordeaux White 2018
$77 Distinctive, with a juicy mix of fennel, tangerine,
white peach and acacia notes carried by a mouthwatering
chalky spine. Lovely cut through the finish too. Sauvi-
gnon Gris, Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon. Drink now
through 2026. 335 cases made.—J.M.
 New Releases: France

93 Domaine de Chevalier Bordeaux White
Clos des Lunes Lune d’Argent 2018 $22 See Smart
Buys, page 81.
93 Domaine de Chevalier Bordeaux White
Clos des Lunes Lune d’Or 2018 $66 This takes a
lush and creamy approach, with a mix of apricot, nectar-
ine, ginger and brioche notes that glide through. There’s
a nicely buried spine here to keep it balanced, leaving a
tingle of quinine at the very end. Sémillon and Sauvignon
Blanc. Drink now through 2025. 500 cases made.—J.M.
93 Château Climens Bordeaux White Aspho-
dèle 2018 $42 Delicious from the start, with a mix of
McIntosh apple, mandarin orange, pear and anise notes
all carried by a filigreed spine of ginger and cardamom.
Drink now through 2024. 600 cases imported.—J.M.
93 Château Cos-d’Estournel Bordeaux White
2018 $158 A racy quinine note cuts through a mix of
peach, white ginger, green almond and pink grapefruit
notes. The tangy, vivacious finish has an echo of sel gris.
Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon. Drink now through 2025.
1,083 cases made.—J.M.
93 Château Coutet Bordeaux White Opalie
2018 $41 This has an exotic display of fresh pineapple,
mandarin orange, yellow apple, lemon peel and star fruit
flavors that are rich in feel yet precise and racy as they
move through a finish gilded with honeysuckle and or-
ange blossom notes. Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon. Drink
now through 2024. 155 cases made.—J.M.
93 Château Doisy Daëne Bordeaux White 2018
$33 A pure rapier of a white, bristling with racy tension
as the white peach, fleur de sel, honeysuckle and star fruit
flavors whistle through, with a long, tightly focused finish.
Serve with oysters now or age a bit and pair with Asian
food. Drink now through 2025. 1,833 cases made.—J.M.
peach notes stream in behind, ending with a fresh, floral-
lined finish. Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc. Drink now
through 2034. 1,916 cases made.—J.M.
92 Château Raymond-Lafon Sauternes 2018
$42 This has a ripe and well-detailed mix of apricot,
candied ginger, peach and quince aromas and flavors, laced
with a subtle hint of green tea through the juicy finish.
Shows a touch more energy and range than most in this
vintage. Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc. Drink now
through 2034.—J.M.
92 Château Suduiraut Sauternes 2018 $70
An unctuous, full-throttle style, with lots of apricot,
glazed peach and marzipan notes rolled together, backed
by brioche and toasted almond on the rich finish. This
has the energy to pull it off in this vintage. Best from 2022
through 2032. 1,550 cases made.—J.M.
91 Château Doisy-Védrines Barsac 2018 $38
Ginger, graham cracker and brioche notes lead the way
in this unctuous and flattering version, with creamed
peach and peach notes filling through the finish. Sémil-
lon and Sauvignon Blanc. Drink now through 2030. 4,000
cases made.—J.M.
91 Château de Myrat Barsac 2018 $40
Quite ripe, with a mix of tangerine, peach, pineapple and
papaya flavors that glide through, laced with acacia honey
on the flattering finish. Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc and
Muscadelle. Drink now through 2030. 1,665 cases
made.—J.M.
91 Château Sigalas Rabaud Sauternes 2018
$43 A juicy and compact version, with honeycomb,
ginger, quince and glazed pear notes layered together seam-
lessly, followed by a marzipan hint on the unctuous finish.
Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc. Drink now through 2032.
1,500 cases made.—J.M.
90 Château Suau Barsac 2018 $21/500ml
Honeyed in feel, offering a mix of creamed peach, mango
and papaya flavors that have a broad feel, with notes of
acacia and honeysuckle draped on the finish. Drink now
through 2028. 750 cases made.—J.M.
FRANCE
Loire
93 Domaine de la Butte Bourgueil Mi-Pente
2018 $40 This has great grip, with notes of juniper
and tapenade adding to the core of black currant and
damson plum. Still smooth and velvety, with a seductive
mouthfeel, but it’s the spice and floral notes that add to
the complexity and up the allure. Drink now through
2030. 500 cases made, 100 cases imported.—A.Z.
93 Domaine de la Butte Bourgueil Perrieres
2018 $37 Loaded with gamy flavors, this red sports
notes of loamy earth, leather and capers, but then the ripe
blackberry, mulberry and fresh fig come out, creating a
charming core. The tannins are firm, but nicely integrated.
Cedar and bay leaf notes push through, emerging on the
long finish. Best from 2022 through 2032. 300 cases made,
50 cases imported.—A.Z.
93 Arnaud Lambert Saumur Clos Tue-Loup
2016 $34 Bold, with iron and maple aromas, followed
by flavors of blackberry, violet and sage, this red is smooth,
with a juicy core that gives it allure. Very friendly without
sacrificing complexity, this is equally made for wine geeks
and casual drinkers. Ends with a long, multilayered finish.
Drink now through 2029. 542 cases made, 110 cases
imported.—A.Z.

92 Château Cheval-Blanc Bordeaux White Le

Petit Cheval 2018 $128 This shows a juicy edge, with
a very focused mix of white peach, ginger, fennel and
mandarin notes racing through., followed by a chiseled
finish. Drink now through 2026.—J.M.

FRANCE
Bordeaux / Dessert
96 Château de Fargues Sauternes 2017 $NA
Juicy and bright, offering a range of quince, white peach,
mirabelle plum, honeysuckle, acacia blossom and honey-
comb notes seamlessly layered together. Shows gorgeous
purity, mouthfeel and length. A standout in a less-than-
stellar Sauternes vintage. Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc.
Drink now through 2045. 1,333 cases made.—J.M.
96 Château d’Yquem Sauternes 2018 $364
See Collectibles, page 80.
93 Château Doisy Daëne Barsac L’Extravagant
2018 $235/375ml Plump, with pineapple chutney,
mango and creamed peach notes, backed by acacia honey
on the broad finish. Offers lovely fruit, but missing the
zip of the great years. Drink now through 2035. 75 cases
made.—J.M.
92 Clos Haut-Peyraguey Sauternes 2018 $49
Bright and floral up front, with honeysuckle and orange
blossom notes darting to the fore while peach, pineapple
and white ginger notes form the core. Stays fresh through
the finish. Nicely done for the vintage. Sémillon and Sau-
vignon Blanc. Drink now through 2035.—J.M.
92 Château Doisy Daëne Barsac 2018 $49
Shows nice viscosity, with pineapple, peach and mango
notes layered together, infused with a warm brioche ac-
cent through the lush finish. Good energy for the vintage.
Drink now through 2032. 2,500 cases made.—J.M.
92 Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey Sauternes 2018
$68 Very fresh, with lots of acacia and honeysuckle
notes out front, while mirabelle plum, quince and white

MARCH 31, 2021 • WINE SPECTATOR 93


92 Domaine de la Butte Bourgueil Les Coteaux
du Levant 2018 $29 Shows a good amount of rich-
ness, with good balance between the ripeness and acidity,
which gives this an elegant feel. Features notes of black-
berry and plum sauce, while bay leaf accents add to the
loamy, lengthy finish. Drink now through 2028. 500 cases
made, 100 cases imported.—A.Z.
92 Arnaud Lambert Saumur Clos Mazurique
2018 $25 This red flows like velvet, loaded with cran-
berry sauce, blackberry and juniper, while hints of char-
coal and cedar add to the complexity. Very harmonious
from start to finish, with a long aftertaste infused with
mineral and thyme. Drink now through 2030. 1,666 cases
made, 786 cases imported.—A.Z.
91 Domaine Delaporte Sancerre Chavignol
2019 $37 This starts off savory, with sea salt and white
asparagus accents, but then ripe notes of persimmon and
Mandarin orange take over. A flinty spine is the backbone
here, while the acidity gives this structure and precision.
Drink now through 2028. 14,000 cases made, 7,000 cases
imported.—A.Z.
91 Domaine de Pallus Chinon Les Pensées de
Pallus 2016 $26 This shows lovely harmony between
the blood orange acidity, chalky tannins and flavors of
hibiscus tea, cherry and singed tobacco. Bay leaf notes
chime in on the well-defined finish. Drink now through
2026. 2,400 cases made.—A.Z.
90 Alex Chaumeau Sancerre 2019 $29 This
combines richness with elegance, with a chiseled feel over-
all. Beautiful notes of white peach, white raspberry and
lemongrass mingle at the core, giving this allure, with a
minerally finish that invites you for another sip. Drink now
through 2026. 2,200 cases made, 1,876 cases imported.—A.Z.
89 Domaine de la Petite Roche Cabernet Franc
Anjou 2019 $20 An aromatic style, featuring a mix
of cedar, lavender and wild orange flavors, while the core
consists of dark cherry and cassis. Smooth and easy to
drink, with decent length. Drink now. 6,000 cases made,
1,500 cases imported.—A.Z.
89 Domaine Les Pins Bourgueil Rosé Les
Rochettes 2019 $18 A lovely version, with notes of
bay leaf and pepper framing the core of crushed strawberry
and cranberry. Silky in texture, with wet stone details
marking the finish. Drink now. 5,000 cases made, 800
cases imported.—A.Z.
89 Alban Roblin Sancerre 2019 $30 This
refreshing white sports tangy acidity that keeps lemon-
grass, lime and chalky notes intact, as well as keeping the
profile precise and focused. Sea salt accents mark the fin-
ish. Drink now through 2024. 5,760 cases made, 4,500
cases imported.—A.Z.
89 Jean-Pierre Vacher & Fils Sancerre 2019
$22 Bright, with tangy lemon and shaved ginger notes
backed by geranium and thyme. Mineral notes linger on
the finish. Drink now. 1,500 cases imported.—A.Z.
87 Auguste Bonhomme Muscadet La Forcine
2019 $12 Light and crisp, with hints of orchard fruit
and blossom. A nice stony undertow marks the moder-
ately long finish. Drink now. 22,500 cases made, 6,540
cases imported.—A.Z.
FRANCE
Other
93 M. Chapoutier Côtes du Roussillon White
Bila-Haut Occultum Lapidem 2017 $44 A refined,
powerful white, with enveloping flavors of almond, white
peach and spiced apple infused with wool, baking spice
and vivid mineral elements. Dried flowers, heather,
matchstick and honey notes mesh together on the long,
lingering finish. Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris and Ver-
mentino. Drink now through 2024. 400 cases made, 60
cases imported.—G.S.
94 WINE SPECTATOR • MARCH 31, 2021
New Releases: France / Italy
93 Château du Moulin-à-Vent Moulin-à-Vent
Champ de Cour 2017 $63 Elegantly textured, with
glossy tannins encasing raspberry coulis and ripe cherry
notes infused with black tea, orange zest, licorice and sleek
mineral details. A serious wine that should age well. Drink
now through 2030. 125 cases made, 50 cases imported.—G.S.
92 Domaine du Cellier Aux Moines Givry Clos
du Cellier Aux Moines 2017 $65 A rich, supple red,
permeated by pure cherry, floral, earth and iron flavors
that are underscored by baking spices. Classy and com-
plex, with fine balance and a long, mouthwatering after-
taste. Drink now through 2030. 1,217 cases made, 100
cases imported.—B.S.
92 Domaine de Suremain Mercurey Clos
L’Évêque 2018 $55 Cherry, blackberry and sweet
spice flavors mark this opulent yet solidly built red, which
is concentrated and generously proportioned, with a firm,
mouthwatering finish. Drink now through 2032. 530 cases
made, 70 cases imported.—B.S.
90 Fracture Côtes Catalanes Shatter 2018 $25
A lively, tangy acidity cuts through the plush profile of
cherry tart, raspberry reduction and white pepper notes.
Vivid mineral, dried flower petal and fragrant herb notes
cascade onto the finish. Drink now through 2026. 6,000
cases made, 6,000 cases imported.—G.S.
88 Gérard Bertrand Corbières An 806 2018 $19
A concentrated red with a polished profile offering black-
berry, olive and mocha notes infused with savory spice,
anise and fragrant herb. Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre.
Drink now through 2024. 18,000 cases made, 6,000 cases
imported.—G.S.
87 M. Chapoutier Côtes du Roussillon-Villages
Les Vignes de Bila-Haut 2018 $12 Plush, moderate
tannins encase wild currant, blackberry and roasted red
plum notes in this medium-bodied red, with plenty of
details of savory spice, tea and dried herb notes filling in
through the finish. Carignan, Grenache and Syrah. Drink
now through 2022. 60,000 cases made, 15,000 cases
imported.—G.S.
ITALY
Campania
95 Salvatore Molettieri Taurasi Vigna Cinque
Querce Riserva 2012 $65 Creamy tannins are well-
knit with flavors of crushed cherry and wild strawberry
fruit, melted licorice and fragrant thyme in this enticing,
full-bodied red. Zesty notes of iron and ground black pep-
per underscore the fruit profile, leading to the chewy fin-
ish. Long and harmonious. Best from 2023 through 2035.
250 cases made, 30 cases imported.—A.N.
94 Salvatore Molettieri Taurasi Vigna Cinque
Querce 2013 $51 A sleek and racy red, with sculpted
tannins providing fine definition for the tightly knit fla-
vors of cherry and black raspberry, Mediterranean scrub,
star anise and graphite. It’s full-bodied and dense, with
the flavor range slowly unfurling in the glass and on the
palate. Best from 2023 through 2035. 1,000 cases made,
100 cases imported.—A.N.
94 Montevetrano Colli di Salerno 2018 $60
A suave, full-bodied red, with plush tannins firming the
rich blackberry coulis and blueberry fruit. It’s layered and
harmonious, with hints of bay leaf, graphite and mineral
unfurling on the palate and through to the racy finish.
Cabernet Sauvignon, Aglianico and Merlot. Drink now
through 2033. 1,300 cases made, 397 cases imported.—A.N.
93 Benito Ferrara Taurasi Vigna Quattro Confini
2015 $51 Enticing notes of spice box, bay leaf and tea
rose accent flavors of ripe black cherry and baked fig on
the palate of this elegant, finely knit red. It’s medium- to
full-bodied, with supple tannins emerging on the fresh,
minerally finish. Best from 2023 through 2030. 100 cases
made, 50 cases imported.—A.N.
92 Colli di Lapio Taurasi Andrea 2015 $44
Taut tannins and racy acidity define ripe flavors of black-
berry and blueberry fruit and accents of Mandarin orange
peel and iron in this fresh, firm red. It’s medium- to full-
bodied, with a fragrant overtone of dried herb and warm
spice lingering on the balanced finish. Best from 2023
through 2023. 300 cases made, 50 cases imported.—A.N.
92 Salvatore Molettieri Taurasi Renonno
2014 $41 Loamy earth and mineral notes lead the way
on the nose of this rich red, transitioning to finely knit
flavors of black cherry, melted licorice and espresso crema
on the palate. Firm tannins hold sway on the spiced fin-
ish. Best from 2024 through 2032. 150 cases made, 20
cases imported.—A.N.
91 Colli di Lapio Fiano di Avellino 2019 $28
Juicy white cherry and pomegranate fruit is accented by
tangerine zest and a range of fragrant ground spice—lots
of ginger, cardamom and white pepper. It’s a bright and
mouthwatering, light- to medium-bodied white, with a
streak of underlying salinity driving the lingering finish.
Drink now through 2026. 4,500 cases made, 800 cases
imported.—A.N.
90 Colli di Lapio Irpinia Campi Taurasini Donna
Chiara 2018 $26 There’s a rich streak of hot stone
and iron underscoring the ripe and juicy blackberry and
damson plum fruit on display in this racy medium- to full-
bodied red. Hints of herb and spice play on the chewy
finish. Drink now through 2026. 300 cases made, 50 cases
imported.—A.N.
90 Mastroberardino Fiano
di Avellino Radici 2019 $29
Lightly creamy and minerally, this
light-bodied white features an over-
tone of smoke and stone layered
with the well-cut acidity and flavors
of Asian pear, pickled ginger and
lemon thyme. Drink now through
2024. 5,800 cases made, 500 cases PIERO
MASTROBERARDINO
imported.—A.N. President
90 Salvatore Molettieri Aglianico Irpinia Cinque
Querce 2016 $23 A finely knit red, with a bright
backbone of acidity and chalky tannins enmeshed with
flavors of wild strawberry and dried fig, star anise and bay
leaf, minerally smoke and stone. Medium- to full-bodied
and harmonious, yet there’s good tension here, and this
opens beautifully in the glass. Drink now through 2028.
2,000 cases made, 200 cases imported.—A.N.
90 Salvatore Molettieri Fiano di Avellino
Apianum 2018 $22 A well-knit white backed by crisp
acidity, with a minerally undertow and snappy flavors of
crunchy white peach, Marcona almond, fleur de sel and
dried thyme. Fresh and harmonious. Try this with grilled
branzino. Drink now through 2026. 400 cases made, 50
cases imported.—A.N.
90 Salvatore Molettieri Greco di Tufo 2018
$23 Grated ginger and Mandarin orange accents lace
the pineapple and lemon thyme flavors in this vibrant,
light-bodied white. Bright and snappy, with minerally
chalk and stone notes on the finish. Drink now through
2023. 300 cases made, 50 cases imported.—A.N.
89 Mastroberardino Aglianico Irpinia 2018
$20 A round, harmonious and medium-bodied red,
offering an appealing mix of ripe black cherry, dried thyme
and salty mineral, with light tannins on the finish. Drink
now through 2024. 8,300 cases made, 1,250 cases
imported.—A.N.
89 Mastroberardino Fiano di Avellino 2019
$22 A streak of smoky minerality underscores flavors
of ripe plum and star fruit, chopped almond and candied
orange peel in this creamy, light-bodied white, with a
fresh, lightly spiced finish. Drink now through 2024.
15,000 cases made, 8,333 cases imported.—A.N.
 New Releases: Italy
88 Mastroberardino Falanghina Sannio 2019
$20 Crisp and minerally, this light-bodied white shows
flavors of Asian pear and orchard blossom underscored
by wet stone and saline. Lightly mouthwatering and bal-
anced, with a clean-cut finish. Drink now. 31,667 cases
made, 2,000 cases imported.—A.N.
88 Vigne Sannite Falanghina Sannio 2019 $17
Fragrant with floral and spice notes, this is lithe and lively
on the palate, with zesty acidity and a pleasing mix of ripe
star fruit and pear fruit, pink grapefruit granita and hints
of ground cardamom and ginger. Drink now. 25,000 cases
made, 200 cases imported.—A.N.
88 Villa Matilde Aglianico Campania Rocca
dei Leoni 2017 $20 A fresh, medium-bodied, easy-
drinking red, offering creamy notes of baked fig, dried
thyme and anise. Drink now. 14,000 cases made, 1,300
cases imported.—A.N.
87 Vigne Sannite Aglianico Sannio 2016 $17
A balanced, medium-bodied red layering light, taut tan-
nins with flavors of cherry, herb and smoke. Drink now.
4,150 cases made, 100 cases imported.—A.N.
ITALY
Piedmont / Barolo
97 Vietti Barolo Rocche di Castiglione 2016
$175 See Collectibles, page 80.
96 Azelia Barolo Bricco Fiasco 2016 $120
See Highly Recommended, page 79.
96 Oddero Barolo Villero 2016 $85 Intense
flavors of black currant and black cherry are shaded by
iron, tar and tobacco in this toned yet powerful red. This
is balanced, though needs time to absorb the dense, chalky
tannins. The aftertaste extends the fruit element, along
with mineral and tobacco accents. Best from 2023 through
2045. 660 cases made.—B.S.
95 Cavallotto Barolo Bricco Boschis 2016 $90
The core of cherry and currant is framed by hay, eucalyp-
tus and wild thyme notes, with a solid structure that leaves
a dusty feel, offset by the sweet, ripe fruit. Balanced over-
all, this is built for the long haul. Best from 2023 through
2045. 3,100 cases made, 1,000 cases imported.—B.S.
95 Quinto Chionetti & Figlio Barolo Bussia
Vigna Pianpolvere 2016 $100 A powerful style, this
Barolo evokes cherry, incense, licorice, tar and tree bark
aromas and flavors, with a solid structure behind it. The
firm tannins dominate the finish for now, yet this shows
fine potential and length. Best from 2023 through 2045.
150 cases made, 100 cases imported.—B.S.
95 Mirafiore Barolo Lazzarito 2015 $125 Ripe
cherry and currant fruit lends a natural sweetness to this
red, while floral, cut hay, licorice and tobacco notes add
depth and complexity. Balanced and long, with vibrant
acidity driving the mouthwatering finish. Best from 2023
through 2045. 1,000 cases made, 50 cases imported.—B.S.
94 Ceretto Barolo Bricco Rocche 2016 $300
A kiss of vanilla adds sweetness to the cherry, strawberry
and mineral flavors in this racy red, which is supple and
fluid, with polished tannins providing support. Graceful,
this is all about finesse without sacrificing the structure.
Best from 2023 through 2043. 50 cases imported.—B.S.
94 Ceretto Barolo Brunate 2016 $169 Ripe and
charming, with cherry, plum, earth and mineral aromas
and flavors harmonizing with the tight grid of tannins.
This is vivid and picks up salty licorice accents on the
lingering finish. Best from 2023 through 2040. 75 cases
imported.—B.S.
94 Oddero Barolo Rocche di Castiglione 2016
$90 A mix of cherry, plum and toasty oak marks this
fluid style, with notes of tobacco, iron and stone adding
depth. Firms up quickly, leaving a chalky feel on the fin-
ish. Best from 2023 through 2045. 200 cases made.—B.S.
93 Damilano Barolo Cannubi 2016 $90 Cherry,
leather, iron, wild herbs and spice mark this lithe red, which
is firm and dry, yet balanced, with the sweet fruit and lively
acidity capping the lingering finish. Best from 2023 through
2042. 3,000 cases made, 750 cases imported.—B.S.
93 Giacomo Fenocchio Barolo Villero 2016 $69
The rich texture envelops sappy flavors of cherry, licorice,
tar and milk chocolate, giving way to dense, pointed
tannins as this plays out on the finish. The balance tips
toward the tannins, but isn’t overly astringent, with lots
of saturated fruit in the end. Best from 2023 through 2045.
500 cases made, 165 cases imported.—B.S.
93 Icardi Barolo Parej 2016 $75 Bright cherry
and strawberry fruit is framed by iron, tar and tobacco in
this elegant Barolo, with a subtle hint of oak. Firm, with
dusty tannins on the long, dry finish, showing minerally
Find it at one of these
and woodsy accents. Best from 2023 through 2040. 900 outstanding wine shops where
cases made, 350 cases imported.—B.S. Wine Spectator is sold:
93 Gianmatteo Raineri Barolo Castelletto 2016
$60 Pretty strawberry and cherry fruit is offset by earth,
tar and licorice notes, all matched to dense, chewy tan- SCROOGE’S SPIRITS
nins. These elements find a nice equilibrium and should Anderson, SC 29621 • 864-226-1643
integrate even more over the next decade. Stays fresh and SEATTLE WINE COMPANY
focused on the lingering finish. Best from 2023 through Bellevue, WA 98005 • 425-869-0609
2042. 125 cases made, 70 cases imported.—B.S.
93 Vietti Barolo Castiglione 2016 $52 This SERVICE LIQUOR AND WINE
harmonious red is beautifully balanced, with appealing Hot Springs, AR 71913 • 501-624-6020
aromas and flavors of rose, black currant, cherry, earth SHERLOCK’S WINE MERCHANT
and tobacco, lingering with accents of fruit, earth and Atlanta, GA 30327 • 404-233-1514
tobacco. Best from 2022 through 2040. 8,346 cases made,
1,800 cases imported.—B.S. SHERRY - LEHMANN
92 Quinto Chionetti & Figlio Barolo Parussi New York, NY 10022 • 212-838-7500
2016 $84 Sleek, juicy and vibrant, with cherry, currant, SHOPPER’S CORNER
juniper and floral flavors, while dusty tannins bring up the Santa Cruz, CA 95062 • 831-429-1494
finish. Shows balance in a wiry frame. Best from 2023
through 2038. 250 cases made, 100 cases imported.—B.S. SHOPRITE BEER WINE & SPIRITS
92 Gianmatteo Raineri Barolo 2016 $35 Clifton, NJ 07011 • 973-883-1017
Though taut and racy, this red is also well-structured, pro- SHOPRITE WINES & SPIRITS OF CALDWELL
viding the setting for its berry, anise, tar, tobacco and Caldwell, NJ 07006 • 973-226-8400
woodsy flavors. Remains compact and tightly wound on
the finish. Best from 2023 through 2038. 1,100 cases made, SIGELS LIQUOR
800 cases imported.—B.S. Dallas, TX 75220 • 214-350-1271
SMOKE HOUSE MARKET
ITALY Chesterfield, MO 63005 • 636-532-3314
Piedmont / Other SOMERVILLE SUPER SAVER
92 Carlo Giacosa Barbaresco Narin 2016 $50 Somerville, NJ 08876 • 908-722-6700
A solid red, offering cherry, strawberry, floral and earth SOUND SHORE LIQUOR PANTRY
notes. Balanced, with refined tannins and a lingering
Mamaroneck, NY 10543 • 914-835-4885
finish. Best from 2022 through 2038. 500 cases made, 165
cases imported.—B.S. SPENDLESS DISCOUNT LIQUORS
91 Carlo Giacosa Barbera d’Alba Superiore Manchester, CT 06040 • 860-643-9461
Lina 2017 $23 This succulent red is light on its feet, SPIRITS
exhibiting bright black cherry, black currant and blueberry
Northport, AL 35476 • 205-752-7787
flavors. A hint of earth chimes in as this winds down on
the long finish. Drink now through 2024. 400 cases made, STAR LIQUORS
150 cases imported.—B.S. Durango, CO 81301 • 970-247-2258
91 Castello di Neive Barbera d’Alba Vigna Santo STATE STREET WINES & SPIRITS
Stefano 2018 $26 Enticing cherry and raspberry
Northampton, MA 01060 • 413-584-2301
flavors mark this juicy red, which is lively and harmoni-
ous, ending with a pleasant astringency. Drink now STATION PLAZA WINE & SPIRITS
through 2024. 1,000 cases made, 600 cases imported.—B.S. Bronxville, NY 10708 • 914-337-0631
90 Quinto Chionetti & Figlio Dogliani Briccolero
SUBURBAN WINE & SPIRITS
2018 $28 Blackberry, pomegranate and almond flavors
Yorktown Hts, NY 10598 • 914-962-3100
prevail in this racy red, showing intensity and focus, with
a solid backbone of tannins and fine length. Drink now
through 2025. 3,000 cases made, 1,200 cases imported.—B.S.
90 Giuseppe Cortese Nebbiolo Langhe 2018 For a complete list of outstanding
$27 This is elegant, with fine intensity to the cherry, wineshops in your neighborhood visit:
strawberry, rose and earth flavors. Accents of licorice
and tobacco chime in as this red builds to a firm, gripping winespectator.com/wineshops
finish. Fine balance. Drink now through 2024. 840 cases
made, 600 cases imported.—B.S.
MARCH 31, 2021 • WINE SPECTATOR 95

90 Oddero Nebbiolo Langhe 2018 $25
mix of cherry, plum, licorice and earth flavors mark this
A
rich, slightly sinewy red. It has grip and personality, also
fine overall balance and length. Drink now through 2025.
3,156 cases made.—B.S.
90 Fratelli Revello Barbera d’Alba 2019 $20
A violet aroma gives way to blackberry and boysenberry
fruit in this concentrated red. Smooth and balanced, with
saturated fruit echoing on the long finish. Drink now
through 2026. 1,100 cases made, 400 cases imported.—B.S.
90 G.D. Vajra Barbera d’Alba
2018 $22 Packed with black
cherry, blackberry and toasty spice
flavors, this red is rich and dense,
with lively acidity that keeps it all
focused, driving the lingering fin-
ish. Drink now through 2024. 3,000
GUISSEPPE VAJRA
cases made.—B.S. Owner & Winemaker
89 Produttori del Barbaresco Nebbiolo Langhe
2018 $28 Macerated cherry, eucalyptus, tobacco, white
pepper and tar flavors combine in this wiry red, with fine
purity to the fruit. The balance tips toward the tannins
now, so decant or age a little longer. Drink now through
2024. 14,000 cases made, 6,500 cases imported.—B.S.
89 Brandini Barbera d’Alba 2019 $18 Intense
and pure flavors of black cherry and blackberry mark this
vibrant red. There’s a light grassy accent too, as this fin-
ishes with vivid acidity. Drink now through 2024. 1,000
cases made, 400 cases imported.—B.S.
89 Sottimano Dolcetto d’Alba Bric del Salto
2019 $17 Blackberry, black currant and violet flavors
are defined by vivid acidity in this red, with earth and
mineral accents adding depth. Balanced and long. Drink
now. 1,833 cases made, 600 cases imported.—B.S.
88 Paolo Conterno Dolcetto d’Alba L’Alto 2018
$18 Bright floral and blackberry flavors highlight this
solidly built red, with a hint of tobacco. Long, with dusty
tannins lining the finish. Drink now through 2024. 1,333
cases made, 250 cases imported.—B.S.
88 Luigi Einaudi Dogliani 2018 $21 There’s a
dried fruit character like fruitcake in this slim red, along
with earth and tobacco notes, showing very good inten-
sity and length. Drink now through 2024. 3,000 cases
imported.—B.S.
88 G.D. Vajra Dolcetto d’Alba 2019 $18 A Sicily / Red
fresh, cherry-flavored version, with a hint of black pepper
and earth accents. Balanced and juicy, with a tactile feel
on the finish. Drink now. 2,500 cases made.—B.S.
ITALY
Puglia
91 Feudi di San Marzano Primitivo di Manduria
Sessantanni Old Vines 2016 $35 Ripe flavors of
black cherry coulis and baked raspberry are fruit-forward
and pleasing in this balanced, medium- to full-bodied red,
layered with savory hints of graphite, cigar box and iron.
Fine, chalky tannins and fresh acidity provide sleek defi-
nition for this expressive wine. Drink now through 2026.
50,000 cases made, 600 cases imported.—A.N.
90 Produttori Vini Manduria Primitivo di
Manduria Lirica 2017 $18 Light, snappy tannins
define the crushed raspberry and fragrant leather flavors in
this fresh, medium-bodied red, with a touch of cured to-
bacco. Balanced, with a chewy, spiced finish. Drink now
through 2024. 20,000 cases made, 500 cases imported.—A.N.
90 Tormaresca Castel del Monte Trentangeli
2017 $25 An elegant red, lightly mouthwatering and
well-knit, with supple tannins and flavors of black cherry
coulis, star anise, graphite and hot stone rippling across
the palate through to the lightly chewy finish. Aglianico,
96 WINE SPECTATOR • MARCH 31, 2021
New Releases: Italy
Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. Drink now through 2026.
250 cases imported.—A.N.
88 Feudi di San Marzano Primitivo di Manduria
Talò 2018 $17 A fragrant red, with rich notes of mes-
quite smoke and bacon fat and flavors of black cherry
coulis and herbed black olive. Medium- to full-bodied and
creamy, with a lightly spiced finish. Drink now. 41,600
cases made, 1,000 cases imported.—A.N.
88 Feudi di San Marzano Salice Salentino Talò
2017 $14 Hints of black licorice and spice accent baked
black currant and black cherry flavors in this balanced,
medium-bodied red, with light, taut tannins. Negroamaro
and Malvasia Nera. Drink now. 30,000 cases made, 300
cases imported.—A.N.
88 Castello Monaci Primitivo Salento Pilùna
2019 $15 Wild strawberry and dried marjoram notes
are bright and fragrant in this round, light- to medium-
bodied red. A zesty underpinning of aromatic ground spice
lingers on the finish. Drink now. 33,300 cases made, 1,850
cases imported.—A.N.
88 Tormaresca Cabernet Sauvignon Puglia
Nèprica 2018 $12 See Best Values, page 82.
88 Tormaresca Primitivo Puglia Nèprica 2018
$12 Zesty ground pink peppercorn and anise notes un-
derscore the lively black raspberry, orange peel and herb
notes in this bright, medium-bodied red. Drink now. 5,000
cases imported.—A.N.
87 Feudi di San Marzano Negroamaro Salento
Il Pumo 2019 $11 Juicy, sun-dried black cherry fruit
is accented by herbed olive and spice notes in this easy-
drinking, medium-bodied red. Light tannins show on
the finish. Drink now. 130,000 cases made, 300 cases
imported.—A.N.
87 Feudi di San Marzano Primitivo Salento Il
Pumo 2019 $11 A light- to medium-bodied, easy-
drinking red, offering notes of ripe raspberry and boysen-
berry fruit balanced by citrus peel acidity. Hints of herb
and spice accent the fruit and carry on the finish. Drink
now. 415,000 cases made, 1,000 cases imported.—A.N.
87 Tormaresca Chardonnay Puglia 2019 $12
A tangy white, with crunchy white peach, lime zest, gin-
ger and stone notes. Light-bodied and lively, this is a great
summer sipper. Drink now. 7,500 cases imported.—A.N.
ITALY
93 Tenuta delle Terre Nere Etna Moganazzi 2017
$47 A minerally, medium- to full-bodied red, offering
a gorgeous range of ripe black cherry, wild sage and san-
dalwood layered with fine, chalky tannins. There’s real
drive to this fresh, harmonious red, and though it’s hard
to wait, patience will be rewarded. Best from 2023 through
2033. 325 cases made, 100 cases imported.—A.N.
92 Donnafugata Sicilia Mille e Una Notte 2016
$85 An elegant red, aromatic and enticing on the nose,
with bay leaf and cured tobacco notes accenting the rich
range of baked plum and black cherry fruit on the palate.
It’s medium- to full-bodied and well-knit, with creamy
tannins on the supple, mineral-laced finish. Lovely. Nero
d’Avola, Petit Verdot and Syrah. Drink now through 2030.
350 cases imported.—A.N.
92 Graci Etna Arcurìa 2017 $55 Rich hints of
fig cake and medicinal herbs underscore the dried cherry
and raspberry fruit in this tightly meshed, medium-bodied
red, with spiced citrus and iron notes and fine, chalky tan-
nins. An elegant version, ending with a mouthwatering
finish. Drink now through 2030. 460 cases made, 200 cases
imported.—A.N.
92 Planeta Cerasuolo di
Vittoria Classico Dorilli 2017
$38 A pure and juicy note of rasp-
berry ganache is underscored by
hints of toast and candied kumquat
in this elegant, medium-bodied red.
Lightly chalky tannins provide defi-
nition for the creamy flavor range,
with spice and smoke notes accent-
ing the raspberry fruit as this echoes
on the finish. Drink now through
2027. 6,650 cases made, 1,419 cases PATRICIA TOTH
imported.—A.N. Winemaker
92 Planeta Noto Santa Cecilia 2016 $45
Finely detailed, with pretty hints of violet and spice ac-
centing dried strawberry and wild cherry fruit flavors. Fresh
on the palate, this is medium-bodied and harmonious,
with supple tannins and rich notes of licorice, bay leaf
and tarry smoke on the finish. Nero d’Avola. Drink now
through 2028. 3,150 cases made, 190 cases imported.—A.N.
91 Feudo Maccari Sicilia Saia 2017 $45 Ripe
strawberry and mulberry flavors are an enticing entry point
for this elegant, medium-bodied red. Mouthwatering acid-
ity and light, creamy tannins frame the fruit profile as this
transitions to notes of red licorice, graphite, dried thyme
and spicy mineral. Nero d’Avola. Drink now through
2027. 5,000 cases made, 1,600 cases imported.—A.N.
91 Morgante Nero d’Avola Sicilia Don Antonio
Riserva 2017 $45 Rich and creamy, this expressive
medium- to full-bodied red displays lush flavors of rasp-
berry ripple, spiced orange peel and wild herb. Elegant
and finely balanced, with supple tannins firming the lin-
gering, spiced finish. Drink now through 2027. 2,500 cases
made, 200 cases imported.—A.N.
91 Girolamo Russo Etna ‘a Rina 2017 $34 Sleek
tannins firm this medium-bodied red, well-knit with the
lightly mouthwatering range of crushed black cherry, can-
died violet, graphite and Earl Grey tea leaf. Drink now
through 2027. 4,000 cases made, 300 cases imported.—A.N.
90 Feudi del Pisciotto Cerasuolo di Vittoria
Giambattista Valli 2018 $24 An elegant, medium-
bodied red, lightly mouthwatering and balanced, with
supple tannins and flavors of plumped cherry, strawberry
preserves, dried marjoram and spiced citrus peel, followed
by a minerally finish. Drink now through 2026. 2,500
cases made, 700 cases imported.—A.N.
90 Feudi del Pisciotto Merlot Terre Siciliane
2018 $26 Medium-bodied, round and balanced, with
vanilla and candied violet accents to ripe black plum and
black cherry fruit. A fresh tang of acidity keeps this bright
and focused to the herb-laced finish. Drink now through
2024. 12,000 cases made, 3,500 cases imported.—A.N.
90 Feudo Montoni Nero d’Avola Sicilia Lagnusa
2017 $22 See Smart Buys, page 81.
90 Planeta Cerasuolo di Vittoria 2018 $26
A bright, light- to medium-bodied red that’s toasty on the
nose, but then a pure chime of ripe raspberry and wild straw-
berry fruit rings out on the palate, accented by Earl Grey
tea leaf and smoky mineral notes and layered with light
tannins. Well-balanced and vibrant. Drink now through
2026. 6,650 cases made, 1,419 cases imported.—A.N.
89 Morgante Nero d’Avola Sicilia 2018 $20
Ripe black raspberry and boysenberry fruit is layered with
hints of fragrant spice and herb in this fresh, well-balanced
and medium-bodied red, with a touch of smoky bacon fat.
Drink now through 2023. 20,000 cases made, 2,500 cases
imported.—A.N.
88 Feudi del Pisciotto Nero d’Avola Sicilia
Baglio del Sole 2018 $12 Fresh and balanced, this
medium-bodied red offers dried marjoram and lavender
notes winding a fragrant thread through flavors of roasted
plum, fig, toast and iron. Drink now. 5,500 cases made,
1,000 cases imported.—A.N.

88 Firriato Nero d’Avola Sicilia Feudi Branciforti
dei Bordonaro 2018 $12 Pretty floral and oak spice
notes are a delicate thread winding through the ripe black
cherry, dried fig and iron flavors on display in this bal-
anced, medium-bodied crowd-pleaser. Light tannins firm
the finish. Drink now. 50,000 cases made, 2,000 cases
imported.—A.N.
87 Feudo Maccari Sicilia Neré 2018 $18 This
trim red is lightly mouthwatering and balanced, a lithe
version that offers a lively mix of crushed black raspberry,
bay leaf and Mandarin orange peel flavors, with a touch
of fresh, loamy earth and a subtle finish. Drink now. 10,000
cases made, 1,200 cases imported.—A.N.
87 Feudo Principi di Butera Nero d’Avola Sicilia
Amìra 2016 $17 A creamy, medium-bodied red, with
graphite and spice accents to the dried black cherry,
roasted fig, herb and loamy earth flavors. Drink now.
10,000 cases made, 6,000 cases imported.—A.N.
ITALY
Sicily / White & Dessert
94 Donnafugata Passito di Pantelleria Ben
Ryé 2017 $44/375ml Flavors of ripe nectarine and
wild strawberry, candied almond and orange marmalade
burst on the palate in this gorgeous sweetie, which is
mouthcoating with its plush creaminess, but shows a lovely
backbone of mouthwatering acidity for balance, carrying
the long finish of ripe fruit, cardamom and ginger spice.
Drink now through 2030. 610 cases imported.—A.N.
92 Graci Etna White Arcurìa 2018 $60 There’s
a lovely, viscous creaminess to the mouthfeel of this
refined, light- to medium-bodied white, carrying a detailed
range of Asian pear, chopped hazelnut, lime blossom and
grapefruit sorbet flavors. Vibrant and mouthwatering, with
a lasting, mineral-driven finish. Drink now through 2028.
250 cases made, 100 cases imported.—A.N.
91 Planeta Carricante Sicilia Eruzione 1614 2017
$36 A svelte white backed by racy acidity, with a tangy
overtone of ruby red grapefruit and tangerine fruit layered
with blanched almond, salty mineral and dried white cherry
notes. Ends with a lingering, creamy finish. Drink now
through 2026. 4,160 cases made, 210 cases imported.—A.N.
91 Tenuta delle Terre Nere Etna White 2019 $25
This lively, light-bodied white does a delicate dance on
the palate, with hints of thyme and Meyer lemon pith
accenting the dried apricot and salty mineral flavors.
Bright and balanced. Drink now through 2024. 4,166 cases
made, 1,375 cases imported.—A.N.
90 Graci Etna White 2019 $30 A round and
light-bodied white, with zippy acidity buoying flavors of
kiwifruit, pink grapefruit zest and stone. Fresh and floral.
Drink now through 2023. 1,600 cases made, 800 cases
imported.—A.N.
90 Planeta Chardonnay Sicilia 2018 $45 A
fresh, lovely white, medium-bodied and well-knit, with a
backbone of fine china-like acidity enlivening the plush
notes of Jonagold apple, crushed hazelnut, lemon curd
and poached apricot. Finely detailed on the lingering,
spiced finish. Drink now through 2026. 15,000 cases made,
2,500 cases imported.—A.N.
89 Feudo Montoni Catarratto Sicilia Masso 2018
$22 Expressive notes of pineapple, candied kumquat
and lemon thyme are set on a lithe, light- to medium-
bodied frame in this fresh and zesty white. Minerally
smoke and stone notes linger on the finish. Drink now
through 2023. 2,800 cases made, 900 cases imported.—A.N.
89 Feudo Montoni Grillo Sicilia Timpa 2019 $21
A zippy white, abundantly fragrant and bright, offering
aromas and flavors of orange blossom, pink grapefruit
granita and lemon thyme notes set on a lithe, linear frame.
Drink now through 2023. 3,300 cases made, 1,450 cases
imported.—A.N.
New Releases: Italy
87 Donnafugata Sicilia White Anthìlia 2019 $17
This fresh, zippy, light-bodied white offers a lively mix of
kiwifruit, star fruit, apple blossom and grated ginger notes.
Catarratto. Drink now. 3,380 cases imported.—A.N.
85 Castellani Pinot Grigio Terre Siciliane Zio
Baffa 2019 $14 This snappy, light-bodied and easy-
drinking white offers a creamy mix of ripe pear, Meyer
lemon zest and stone notes. Drink now. 10,000 cases made,
4,000 cases imported.—A.N.
ITALY
Trentino–Alto Adige
91 Elena Walch Lagrein Alto Adige Vigna
Castel Ringberg Riserva 2017 $53 This medium-
bodied red offers Lagrein’s expressive ripe black raspberry
and black cherry fruit and fragrant herb and spice notes,
but sets them in a restrained and well-knit frame. There’s
a subtle sense of tension, leading to the lingering smoke-
and olive-laced finish. Drink now through 2027. 800 cases
made, 200 cases imported.—A.N.
90 Cantina Andriano Chardonnay Alto Adige
Somereto 2019 $21 There’s a zesty mineral drive to
this well-cut white, underscoring the pretty range of ripe
Asian pear, pickled ginger and star fruit flavors. Finely knit
and fresh, with a lightly spiced, lingering finish. Drink now
through 2024. 4,167 cases made, 396 cases imported.—A.N.
89 Abbazia di Novacella Kerner Alto Adige
Valle Isarco 2019 $22 Crisp acidity frames expressive
flavors of tangerine and apricot fruit in this lithe, light-
bodied white, accented by subtle ground ginger and lemon
thyme notes, with a stony finish. Drink now through 2023.
12,000 cases made, 4,000 cases imported.—A.N.
88 Elena Walch Pinot Bianco Alto Adige 2019
$18 A crisp, light-bodied white, with a stony undertow
to the lively, well-knit mix of Asian pear and pickled gin-
ger notes, showing a touch of citrus zest. Drink now. 2,100
cases made, 750 cases imported.—A.N.
88 Peter Zemmer Chardonnay Alto Adige 2019
$17 Pretty apple blossom and Asian pear aromas and
flavors are set in this creamy, light-bodied white, layered
with fresh acidity and accents of ground ginger, slivered
almond and stony mineral. Drink now. 3,300 cases made,
1,000 cases imported.—A.N.
88 Cantina Valle Isarco Grüner Veltliner Alto
Adige Valle Isarco 2019 $18 A light-bodied white,
with pink grapefruit sorbet, star fruit and spicy mineral
on the tangy palate, with a touch of fresh tarragon. Drink
now. 6,500 cases made, 1,500 cases imported.—A.N.
88 Cantina Valle Isarco Kerner Alto Adige Valle
Isarco 2019 $18 Bright and mouthwatering, this tangy,
light-bodied white offers a creamy mix of ripe pear,
blanched almond and orange granita flavors. Drink now.
15,000 cases made, 1,500 cases imported.—A.N.
87 San Pietro Pinot Bianco Alto Adige 2019 $16
Fragrant with Honeycrisp apple, honeysuckle and stony
mineral notes, this is a balanced, quaffable white, with a
fresh and zesty finish. Drink now. 5,800 cases made, 300
cases imported.—A.N.
ITALY
Tuscany / Chianti Classico
96 La Sala Chianti Classico Il Torriano Gran
Selezione 2016 $50 See Highly Recommended, page
79.
95 Tenuta Bibbiano Chianti Classico Riserva
2016 $30 A beam of intense cherry shines through this
densely structured red, keeping it defined and energetic.
Iron, earth and tobacco flavors add depth as this stays long,
ending with mouthcoating tannins. Best from 2023 through
2045. 2,500 cases made, 500 cases imported.—B.S.
95 Tenuta Bibbiano Chianti Classico Vigna del
Capannino Gran Selezione 2016 $42 This red starts
out smooth, displaying ripe black cherry and plum flavors,
along with earth, iron and woodsy elements. Gains power
as this builds on the palate, ending in an extended after-
taste of loam, iron and wild herb accents. Best from 2023
through 2045. 3,300 cases made, 250 cases imported.—B.S.
95 Tenuta Bibbiano Chianti Classico Vigne di
Montornello Gran Selezione 2016 $42 Notes of
eucalyptus and juniper mesh with black cherry, plum,
black pepper and tar flavors in this powerful red, which
is firm, fresh and balanced, picking up a mineral element
on the long finish. Best from 2023 through 2045. 3,300
cases made, 250 cases imported.—B.S.
95 Casa Emma Chianti Classico Gran Selezione
2016 $52 Pure flavors of cherry and blackberry
highlight this bright, polished red, which combines charm
and muscle. There’s a solid spine of tannins, yet this is
harmonious overall, with a terrific finish that evokes fruit,
iron and tobacco notes. Best from 2023 through 2045.
700 cases made, 450 cases imported.—B.S.
93 Capraia Chianti Classico Effe 55 Gran Selezi-
one 2016 $33 Notable for its supple texture and linear
profile, this vibrant red features cherry, black currant,
earth and tobacco flavors, with dense, resonant tannins
underlying it all. A stony, minerally accent joins the lin-
gering finish. Best from 2022 through 2040. 1,000 cases
made, 500 cases imported.—B.S.
92 Barone Ricasoli Chianti Classico Castello
di Brolio Gran Selezione 2016 $70 Aromas and
flavors of iron, leather and earth swirl around the core of
plum and black cherry in this broad-shouldered red. Dusty
tannins congregate on the finish, where the flavors echo.
Best from 2023 through 2037. 3,570 cases made, 200 cases
imported.—B.S.
92 Capraia Chianti Classico Riserva 2016 $26
A harmonious texture and profile sets the stage for this
red’s focused cherry, currant and floral notes. Mineral and
tobacco accents sneak in as this plays out on the long fin-
ish. Shows excellent structure too. Drink now through
2040. 1,000 cases made, 500 cases imported.—B.S.
92 La Sala Chianti Classico Riserva 2017 $35
This evokes bright cherry, raspberry, floral and tobacco
aromas and flavors. Firm, dusty tannins take hold as this
unwinds on the lingering finish. Needs food and time, but
should find its equilibrium. Sangiovese and Cabernet Sau-
vignon. Best from 2022 through 2035. 950 cases made,
300 cases imported.—B.S.
ITALY
Tuscany / Toscana
93 Tenuta di Arceno Toscana Valadorna 2015
$75 This rich, powerful red, packed with blackberry and
blueberry fruit, is beginning to mellow, offering a woodsy
panoply of mushroom, humus and autumn leaves in
the background. There are still some tannins to resolve.
Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit
Verdot. Drink now through 2032. 1,500 cases made, 1,000
cases imported.—B.S.
93 Tua Rita Toscana Redigaffi 2017 $300
This is powerful, from the vanilla- and coconut-scented
oak to the concentrated blackberry, black currant and
fruitcake flavors to the muscular tannins that support it
all. Notes of Mediterranean scrub and tobacco peek
through on the long finish. Best from 2023 through 2035.
900 cases made, 100 cases imported.—B.S.
92 Petra Toscana 2016 $70 This is sleek, with
a lot of flavors packed into its slim frame. Black currant,
plum, earth and wild rosemary flavors are buoyed by dense,
dusty tannins. Finishes long, with a pleasant dryness. Cab-
ernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Drink now through 2028.
3,300 cases made, 500 cases imported.—B.S.
MARCH 31, 2021 • WINE SPECTATOR 97

90 Tenuta di Arceno Toscana Il Fauno di
Arcanum 2017 $35 Smoky, with black cherry, earth,
wild thyme and cedar notes tightly bound with the dense
matrix of tannins. An accent of licorice seeps in as this
winds down on the finish. Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cab-
ernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. Drink now through
2025. 11,000 cases made, 9,000 cases imported.—B.S.
88 Brancaia Toscana Tre 2017 $40 A beam
of cherry is shaded by earth, blood and iron flavors in
this crisp, direct red. It’s moderately long on the finish.
Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now.
15,000 cases made, 15,000 cases imported.—B.S.
88 Ornellaia Toscana Le Volte 2018 $34
This fresh red offers a mix of black cherry, blackberry,
tobacco, earth and thyme convening through the mod-
erately long finish. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and San-
giovese. Drink now. 10,000 cases imported.—B.S.
88 Petra Toscana Zingari 2018 $20 An
open, light-bodied red, this emphasizes black cherry,
blackberry and thyme flavors. Soft tannins and the right
level of acidity makes it very drinkable now. Merlot, San-
giovese, Petit Verdot and Syrah. Drink now. 13,333 cases
made, 3,000 cases imported.—B.S.
88 Villa Pillo Toscana Cingalino 2018 $11
Plum, black cherry and loam notes mingle in this chunky
red, which is bright and balanced, with chalky tannins.
Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Drink now. 3,000 cases made,
500 cases imported.—B.S.
ITALY
Tuscany / Other
95 Grattamacco Bolgheri Superiore 2017 $100
This lush red is saturated with black currant, plum, cedar,
iron, tobacco and toasty oak aromas and flavors, bursting
with energy and complexity. Nicely balanced, with a reso-
nant finish that echoes the flavors and goes on and on.
Very youthful and fresh. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and
Sangiovese. Best from 2022 through 2037. 8,300 cases
made, 400 cases imported.—B.S.
93 Tenuta Le Colonne Bolgheri 2018 $28
Very Bordeaux-like, offering black currant, plum, olive
and cedar aromas and flavors on a velvety texture. Stands
out for its beautiful harmony, freshness and long, fruit-,
savory- and spice-tinged aftertaste. Cabernet Franc, Mer-
lot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now through 2028.
8,000 cases made, 1,000 cases imported.—B.S.
93 Petrolo Val d’Arno di Sopra Galatrona 2018
$130 Rich, exuding blackberry and black cherry flavors,
with accents of fresh herbs, green olive and smoky oak.
Fleshy and firm at once, this resonates on the lingering
finish. Charming, classy and confident. Drink now
through 2024. 1,600 cases made, 150 cases imported.—B.S.
93 Simone Santini Chianti Colli Senesi Tenuta
Le Calcinaie Santa Maria Riserva 2015 $47 This
is beginning to mature, offering woodsy, mushroom and
leather flavors to accompany its fading cherry and plum
fruit. Balanced and long, with notes of bitter almond, iron
and tobacco adding depth. Drink now through 2036. 200
cases made, 30 cases imported.—B.S.
93 Selvapiana Chianti Rufina Bucerchiale
Riserva 2016 $35 Dark and brooding, this red features
ripe black cherry, blackberry, wild herb, earth and iron
flavors. Gains in richness, density and ripeness what it
loses in freshness, though shows fine balance and length.
Drink now through 2028. 3,500 cases made, 1,900 cases
imported.—B.S.
92 Casa Emma Colli della Toscana Centrale
Soloìo 2016 $55 Saturated with flavors of truffle,
blackberry, blueberry, tar and iron, this red is concentrated
and beefy, with well-integrated, dense tannins. Firms up
on the finish, with dusty tannins. Drink now through
2028. 500 cases made, 200 cases imported.—B.S.
98 WINE SPECTATOR • MARCH 31, 2021
New Releases: Italy / Spain
92 Tenuta Le Colonne Bolgheri Superiore 2017
$69 This firm red reveals plum, black currant, thyme,
sage and iron notes. On the racy side, with vibrant acid-
ity and a lingering finish of concentrated fruit and spice.
Still a bit raw. Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and
Petit Verdot. Best from 2022 through 2033. 1,000 cases
made, 200 cases imported.—B.S.
92 Le Mortelle Maremma
Toscana Poggio alle Nane 2016
$75 Black cherry and plum fruit
combines with loamy earth, iron
and tobacco flavors in this broad,
opulent red. Dusty tannins seep in
as this winds down on the finish,
staying fresh and focused. Cabernet
Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon.
ALBIERA & PIERO
Best from 2022 through 2029. 80 ANTINORI
cases imported.—B.S. Owners
92 Michele Satta Bolgheri Superiore Piastraia
2017 $40 This smooth red evokes black cherry and
blackberry flavors gently singed by earth and spice. Light
tannins gird the finish, with a bittersweet chocolate feel.
Merlot, Sangiovese, Cabernet and Syrah. Drink now
through 2027. 3,000 cases made, 1,250 cases imported.—B.S.
92 Tenuta Sette Cieli Bolgheri noi4 2017 $47
Taut and linear in profile, with black currant, plum, cedar,
loam and tobacco flavors fused to the spine of tannins.
Ends with a pleasant astringency. Cabernet Sauvignon,
Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2022
through 2033. 1,830 cases made, 500 cases imported.—B.S.
90 Ornellaia Bolgheri Le Serre Nuove 2018
$80 This rich red is packed with black cherry, black-
berry and plum flavors shaded by wild Mediterranean
herbs and baking spices. Polished yet dense, with the tan-
nins lining the lingering finish like cocoa powder. Merlot,
Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot.
Drink now. 2,500 cases imported.—B.S.
88 Donna Laura Chianti Alteo Riserva 2017 $15
This tastes smoky and woodsy, in a good way, with cherry,
plum and almond at its core. Balanced and enjoyable now.
Drink now. 8,000 cases made, 1,500 cases imported.—B.S.
86 Renzo Masi Chianti Riserva 2017 $16 A
hint of vanilla and milk chocolate coats the cherry and
earth flavors in this straightforward red, which is a tad dry
on the finish. Sangiovese and Colorino. Drink now.
15,000 cases made, 7,000 cases imported.—B.S.
ITALY
Veneto
93 Leonildo Pieropan Soave Classico La Rocca
2017 $45 A finely knit, light- to medium-bodied white,
with rich flavors of glazed apple, baked pineapple and
chopped hazelnut enlivened by bright, lemony acidity and
a racy streak of salinity. Hints of lime blossom and smoke
play on the lasting finish. Drink now through 2031. 500
cases imported.—A.N.
91 Leonildo Pieropan Soave Classico 2018 $23
See Smart Buys, page 81.
91 Leonildo Pieropan Soave Classico Calvarino
2017 $40 A harmonious white, with mineral, chalk
and saline notes underscoring the finely woven mix of
Asian pear, slivered almond and pink grapefruit pith fla-
vors. Long, creamy finish. Garganega and Trebbiano.
Drink now through 2027. 500 cases imported.—A.N.
90 Gini Soave Classico 2019 $20 Light-bodied,
crisp and minerally, offering a zesty thread of ground spice
and grated ginger that winds through mouthwatering Hon-
eycrisp apple and pink grapefruit sorbet flavors, with a hint
of lemon thyme and a racy finish. Drink now through 2026.
9,000 cases made, 2,500 cases imported.—A.N.
89 Fattori Soave Danieli 2019 $17 Juicy fig and
kiwifruit flavors are backed by crisp acidity in this bright,
light-bodied white. Hints of honeysuckle, grated ginger
and chalky mineral show on the finish. Drink now through
2023. 5,800 cases made, 1,200 cases imported.—A.N.
88 Dal Cero Soave Tenuta Corte Giacobbe 2018
$17 A lithe, lip-smacking white, this shows a vibrant mix
of green apple, star fruit and grated ginger underscored by
a minerally streak of petrol and saline. Drink now through
2023. 13,000 cases made, 3,000 cases imported.—A.N.
88 Fattori Soave Classico Runcaris 2019 $15
Lightly mouthwatering and fragrant, this light-bodied
white displays a pretty overtone of honeysuckle and jas-
mine and creamy flavors of Asian pear and star fruit. A
touch of wet stone shows on the finish. Drink now through
2023. 5,400 cases made, 300 cases imported.—A.N.
87 Brigaldara Soave 2019 $15 A minerally
version, light-bodied and tangy, with wet stone and smoke
notes layered with Gala apple and tangerine peel flavors.
Drink now. 1,600 cases made, 800 cases imported.—A.N.
ITALY
Other
90 La Battagliola Lambrusco Grasparossa di
Castelvetro Dosage 15 2019 $19 An aromatic
thread of warm spice and dried rose winds through the
creamy mix of plumped cherry and fig cake flavors in this
finely meshed, ruby-colored sparkler, with a lacy mousse.
Drink now through 2023. 1,300 cases made, 500 cases
imported.—A.N.
90 Agricola Punica Isola dei Nuraghi White
Samas 2019 $20 A zesty white, with a lovely floral
overtone of jasmine and honeysuckle. This is light-bodied
and juicy, offering flavors of pineapple and pink grapefruit
sorbet. Vermentino and Chardonnay. Drink now through
2023. 8,333 cases made, 600 cases imported.—A.N.
88 Surrau Vermentino di Gallura Branu 2019
$18 This tangy, light-bodied white offers a fragrant over-
tone of grapefruit peel and lime blossom, with a snappy mix
of pear, grated ginger and saline flavors on the palate. Drink
now. 11,000 cases made, 3,000 cases imported.—A.N.
88 Valdo Extra Dry Valdobbiadene Prosecco
Superiore Cuvée 1926 NV $15 A lithe version,
backed by crisp acidity, with a pretty mix of nectarine,
apple blossom and grated ginger, underscored by a hint of
stony mineral. Drink now. 30,000 cases made, 2,000 cases
imported.—A.N.
87 Luca Grucci Extra Dry Valdobbiadene
Prosecco Superiore NV $15 Aromatic with floral,
ground cardamom and ginger accents, this zippy Prosecco
offers a lively mousse and well-knit flavors of ripe pear
and star fruit. Drink now. 5,000 cases made, 5,000 cases
imported.—A.N.
SPAIN
Rioja
94 Bodegas Izadi Rioja Selección 2016 $25
This rich red marries power and grace, with ripe plum and
blackberry fruit, while toast, loamy earth and mineral
notes add depth. Well-integrated tannins support the
thick texture, while firm acidity keeps this fresh. Harmo-
nious and deep. Drink now through 2030. 10,240 cases
made, 1,000 cases imported.—T.M.
92 Bodegas Ondarre Rioja Rivallana Reserva
2016 $28 See Smart Buys, page 81.
90 Bodegas Olarra Rioja Añares Reserva 2016
$22 See Smart Buys, page 82.

90 Bodegas Tobía Rioja Óscar Tobía Reserva
2016 $35 A firm tannic backbone supports the ripe
flavors of boysenberry and currant in this bold red. Toast,
spice and espresso notes add interest, while orange peel
acidity keeps it all lively. Tempranillo and Maturana Tinta.
Drink now through 2028. 4,500 cases made, 2,000 cases
imported.—T.M.
89 Bodegas Izadi Rioja Reserva 2016 $19 A 92
sleek red, with nice focus to steeped black cherry and ripe
currant notes flanked by licorice, smoke and orange peel
accents that are structured with moderate tannins. Cola
and mineral details grace the finish. Drink now through
2026. 20,800 cases made, 6,000 cases imported.—G.S.
89 Bodegas de la Marquesa Rioja White
Valserrano 2019 $18 Fragrant with orange blossom
and vanilla, this bright white shows tangerine and peach
flavors with an herbal accent. Tangy acidity backs the
fruity and floral center. Viura and Malvasia. Drink now
through 2023. 2,000 cases made, 400 cases imported.—T.M.
88 Marqués de Cáceres Rioja White Antea
Limited Edition 2018 $16 Apple and melon notes
are lightly marked with toast and spice elements in this
supple, medium-bodied white, with the acidity coming
through on the tangerine-laced finish. Drink now through
2024. 1,206 cases made, 50 cases imported.—G.S.
87 Marqués del Atrio Rioja Reserva 2016 $22
Crushed raspberry and orange peel notes fill the core of
this glossy, plump red, with licorice, spice, mineral and
tea notes tracing into the leafy finish. Moderate tannins.
Tempranillo and Graciano. Drink now through 2024.
50,000 cases made, 25,000 cases imported.—G.S.
86 Bodegas Carlos Serres Rioja Crianza 2016
$13 Dried cherry and orange peel flavors are met with
elements of fresh earth, menthol and licorice in this plump
red, with spicy and leafy details rounding out the moder-
ately tannic finish. Drink now. 8,000 cases made, 6,000
cases imported.—G.S.
86 Bodegas Carlos Serres Tempranillo Rioja
Old Vines 2019 $11 This light, fresh red offers bright
cherry flavors, with notes of toast and licorice, light tan-
nins and citrusy acidity. Drink now. 2,000 cases made,
1,500 cases imported.—T.M.
SPAIN
Other
95 Merum Priorati Priorat Destí 2017 $29 See
Smart Buys, page 80.
94 San Alejandro Garnacha Calatayud Las
Rocas Viñas Viejas 2017 $22 This red is restrained
yet focused, with a balanced structure and good depth. A
silky texture carries black cherry, licorice, forest floor and
spice flavors, not exuberant but harmonious. Clean, fresh
and long. Garnacha and Syrah. Drink now through 2027.
2,800 cases made, 2,800 cases imported.—T.M.
93 Merum Priorati Priorat El Cel 2017 $64
Black cherry and currant flavors mingle with notes of
loamy earth, cocoa and licorice in this rich red. Firm tan-
nins are balanced by lively acidity. It has good depth, in
a savory style. Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignan
and Syrah. Drink now through 2027. 3,000 cases made,
750 cases imported.—T.M.
92 Bodegas Alejandro Fernandez Ribera del
Duero Pesquera Millenium Gran Reserva 2009
$145 Sinewy and concentrated, with notes of loamy
earth, cedar and sweet tobacco leaf melding over cherry
and red currant flavors that are infused with menthol,
licorice and spice elements. Aromas of graphite and leaf
are bound by full, supple tannins on the lingering finish.
Still shows lots of power and complexity. Drink now
through 2027. 40 cases imported.—G.S.
New Releases: Spain
92 Merum Priorati Priorat Inici 2017 $25
Bright and lively, this light, energetic red is tangy and
focused, wrapping berry and cherry flavors in spice, anise
and mineral notes. The structure is graceful and balanced.
Grenache, Carignan, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon.
Drink now through 2025. 55,000 cases made, 4,500 cases
imported.—T.M.
Bodegas Santa Eulalia Ribera del Duero
Xavier Flouret Poinciana Crianza 2016 $22 This
well-structured red shows a firm tannic spine and lively
balsamic acidity framing an appealing mix of currant,
blackberry, espresso, loamy earth and anise flavors. This
has power yet remains balanced and graceful. Drink now
through 2030. 200 cases made, 107 cases imported.—T.M.
90 Viñedos y Bodegas Áster Ribera del Duero
Crianza 2015 $22 Full, polished tannins encase the
blackberry and currant notes of this brooding red, with
floral, anise and mocha elements matched with savory
herb and loamy earth details through the finish. Muscular
but still showing finesse. Drink now through 2026. 1,100
cases imported.—G.S.
90 Lagar de Fornelos Rias Baixas Pazo de
Seoane Rosal 2019 $19 Sleek and focused, this light-
bodied white offers crisp lime blossom, mineral and tan-
gerine flavors backed by mouthwatering acidity. Spice
details linger on the long, balanced finish. Albariño,
Caiño, Loureiro and Treixadura. Drink now through 2022.
350 cases imported.—G.S.
90 Pagos de Familia Marqués de Griñon  pear, tarragon and beeswax flavors that give this a savory
Cabernet Sauvignon Dominio de Valdepusa
2016 $37 Cherry and plum flavors are framed by notes
of cedar, licorice and tobacco in this firm red. The tan-
nins are well-integrated, while balsamic acidity gives this
balance. Drink now through 2026. 2,400 cases made, 1,200
cases imported.—T.M.
90 San Alejandro Garnacha Calatayud Las
Rocas 2017 $14 See Best Values, page 82.
89 Lagar de Fornelos Albariño Rias Baixas
Lagar de Cervera 2019 $19 Electric acidity powers
this tangy white, supporting peach, floral and vanilla fla-
vors that have a pleasant weight on the palate. Generous,
yet energetic and balanced. Drink now through 2022.
4,400 cases imported.—T.M.
88 Codorníu Brut Rosado Cava Clasico NV $12
Ripe plum and plumped black cherry fruit flavors are rich
and expressive in this creamy Cava, backed by bright acid-
ity. A lively crowd-pleaser, with hints of toast point, can-
died lemon zest and fragrant spice on the finish. Drink
now. Tasted twice, with consistent notes. 500 cases
imported.—A.N.
88 Bodegas Fillaboa Albariño Rias Baixas 2019
$20 A bracing acidity binds the honeysuckle, sleek
mineral, white peach and tangerine flavors of this broad,
medium-bodied white, with accents of spice, white blos-
som and herb marking the finish. Drink now through
2022. 5,500 cases imported.—G.S.
88 Pagos de Familia Marqués de Griñon 
Dominio de Valdepusa Summa Varietalis 2015
$25 This red offers concentration and balance, with
flavors of black cherry, licorice, loamy earth and smoke.
Reserved but harmonious. Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon
and Petit Verdot. Drink now through 2025. 9,100 cases
made, 4,550 cases imported.—T.M.
88 Bodegas Vetus Toro Flor de Vetus 2018 $18
Cherry and plum flavors mingle with herbal, licorice and
loamy earth notes in this straightforward red. It has firm
tannins and fresh acidity. Drink now through 2026. 10,600
cases made, 1,500 cases imported.—T.M.
87 Dominio de Eguren Viño de la Tierra de
Castilla White Protocolo Made with Organic
Grapes 2019 $9 This round white has depth, with
character. There’s just enough acidity to keep it all lively.
Drink now. 10,000 cases made, 2,000 cases imported.—T.M.
87 Bodegas y Viñedos Fernández Rivera Viño
de la Tierra de Castilla y León Dehesa La Granja
2014 $19 Cherry and currant notes are supple in this
medium-bodied red, backed by accents of white pepper,
herb and smoke. Stony mineral and anise details round
out the moderately tannic finish. Drink now through
2023. 3,000 cases imported.—G.S.
86 Dominio de Eguren Viño de la Tierra de
Castilla White Protocolo 2019 $8 This round white
offers pear and apple flavors, with notes of herb and bees-
wax. The acidity is a bit soft, but a touch of tannins adds
structure. Macabeo and Airén. Drink now. 20,000 cases
made, 7,000 cases imported.—T.M.
MARCH 31, 2021 • WINE SPECTATOR 99
 New Releases: Other International / UNITED STATES / California / Oregon
OTHER
INTERNATIONAL
94 Oremus Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos 2013
$92/500ml A finely knit dessert wine, with a backbone
of lip-smacking acidity and a minerally underpinning of
oyster shell and saline supporting flavors of white peach
puree, tangerine, Marcona almond and candied ginger.
This is loaded with flavor, expanding beautifully on the
palate, but remains lithe and graceful throughout. From
Hungary. Drink now through 2035. 4,375 cases made, 196
cases imported.—A.N.
93 Dog Point Chardonnay Marlborough 2018
$42 Rich and toasty up-front, with hazelnut, nutmeg
and cardamom details that mingle with peach, poached
pear and green apple flavors on a supple and juicy frame,
showing a hint of gunpowder tea. From New Zealand.
Drink now through 2030. 1,000 cases made, 50 cases
imported.—M.W.
92 Oremus Tokaji Aszú 3 Puttonyos 2014
$50/500ml A lithe, lovely dessert wine, lightly mouth-
coating but overall bright and mouthwatering, offering
an expressive range of ripe nectarine, candied pink grape-
fruit zest, freshly chopped rosemary, candied almond and
crystallized honey flavors. Sleek and well-cut on the last-
ing finish. From Hungary. Drink now through 2031. 3,000
cases made, 100 cases imported.—A.N.
92 Pyramid Valley Chardonnay North Canter-
bury 2018 $50 Complex and elegant, with pear, peach
and yellow apple flavors that are sleek and satiny. Hints
of hazelnut, spice and a touch of sea salt linger on the fin-
ish. From New Zealand. Drink now through 2030. 480
cases made, 75 cases imported.—M.W.
90 Symington Family Alentejo White Quinta da
Fonte Souto 2018 $25 A refreshing, mineral-laced
white, with aromas of toast weaving through the pine-
apple and crisp peach flavors marked with white pepper,
clove and wild herb. Shows solid focus and energy through-
out. Arinto and Verdelho. From Portugal. Drink now
through 2024. 650 cases made, 200 cases imported.—G.S.
89 Allan Scott Pinot Noir Marlborough 2019
$19 Black cherry and cream soda notes are robust and
generous, with notes of toasted herb, white pepper, fen-
nel seed and black tea on the finish. From New Zealand.
Drink now. 5,000 cases made, 500 cases imported.—M.W.
88 Herdade do Esporão  cases made.—T.F.
Alentejo White Reserva 2018
$20 This lovely white is golden-
colored and medium-bodied, with a
honey accent marking the pineapple
and mango flavors, showing spice,
floral and vanilla details that yield
to mineral and savory elements on
the finish. From Portugal. Drink
now through 2024. 32,600 cases DAVID BAVERSTOCK
made, 3,000 cases imported.—G.S. Winemaker
88 Nortico Alvarinho Minho 2019 $16 Aromatic
white blossom notes hug the flavors of lime, white peach
and lemon zest in this zippy, light-bodied white, with a
saline acidity highlighting the mouthwatering finish. From
Portugal. Drink now. 15,000 cases made, 7,000 cases
imported.—G.S.
86 Herdade do Esporão Alentejano White
Monte Velho 2019 $12 Lively acidity provides nice
cut to the citrus flavors in this firm white, with white pep-
per, herb and flinty undertones. Antão Vaz, Roupeiro and
Perrum. From Portugal. Drink now. 105,000 cases made,
6,000 cases imported.—G.S.
100 WINE SPECTATOR • MARCH 31, 2021
United States
CALIFORNIA
Zinfandel & Blends
93 Limerick Lane Estate Cuvée Russian River
Valley 2018 $85 There’s lots of torque to this Zin,
which is plenty gutsy yet ultimately refined, with flavors
of blackberry, smoky meat, pepper and orange peel that
finish with broad-shouldered tannins. Zinfandel, Syrah
and Petite Sirah. Best from 2022 through 2030. 360 cases
made.—T.F.
93 Limerick Lane Rocky Knoll Russian River
Valley 2018 $62 Sleek yet gutsy, with vibrant black-
berry thicket, stony mineral and smoked pepper flavors
that build tension toward medium-grained tannins. Zin-
fandel, Syrah and Petite Sirah. Best from 2022 through
2030. 120 cases made.—T.F.
93 Limerick Lane Zinfandel Russian River
Valley 2018 $42 A spirited Zin that mixes old-school
briar with a more polished style, offering black raspberry,
smoked pepper and roasted anise flavors that finish with
zesty tannins. Drink now through 2029. 1,680 cases
made.—T.F.
92 Limerick Lane 1910 Block Russian River
Valley 2018 $62 This old-school Zin is loaded with
rustic, briary accents that highlight high-energy black
cherry, raspberry and toasty sage flavors, building toward
broad-shouldered tannins. Zinfandel and Petite Sirah.
Drink now through 2030. 288 cases made.—T.F.
91 Dashe Zinfandel California Vineyard Select
2018 $24 See Smart Buys, page 81.
91 Dashe Zinfandel Mendocino County Les
Enfants Terribles Mendocino Cuvée 2017 $32 A
distinctive red, with piquant spiciness that highlights
lively black cherry, dried sage and green peppercorn ac-
cents. Drink now through 2027. 982 cases made.—T.F.
88 The Federalist Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley
2018 $20 A zesty red, with up-front cherry and pep-
per flavors that finish with a slight nip of tannins. Drink
now through 2026. 4,500 cases made.—T.F.
87 Shooting Star Zinfandel Lake County 2018
$15 Soft and jammy, with user-friendly raspberry jam
and toasty pepper flavors. Drink now through 2024. 1,500
86 7 Deadly Zinfandel Lodi 7 Deadly Zins Old
Vine 2017 $16 A user-friendly red with dried cherry
and currant flavors accented by black licorice and pepper.
Drink now through 2024. 123,874 cases made.—T.F.
CALIFORNIA
White
92 Bodega de Edgar Albariño Paso Robles 2019
$28 Bright and generous, with juicy lemon meringue
flavors mingling with accents of spice, pineapple and tan-
gerine on a sleek frame, gaining momentum on the long,
expressive finish. Lingers with notes of white pepper and
lemon blossom. Drink now. 450 cases made.—M.W.
92 Hyde Chardonnay Napa Valley Carneros
Larry Hyde 2017 $60 Expressive and deeply flavored,
with ripe tangerine, cherry and white berry elements that
are filled with lithe spiciness. Shows lemon meringue notes
on the fresh, crunchy finish. Drink now through 2025.
555 cases made.—K.M.
91 Arbe Garbe Russian River Valley 2018 $35
Stylish, fragrant and juicy, with litsea, honeysuckle and
orange blossom aromatics that mingle with pineapple,
apricot and ruby grapefruit flavors. Effusive and fresh
through the long finish. Malvasia Bianca, Ribolla Gialla
and Tocai Friulano. Drink now. 600 cases made.—M.W.
91 Louis Pommery Chardonnay Carneros 2019
$30 Fleshy and rich, with intense minerality to the ripe
citrus and green peach flavors that are well-structured,
followed by notes of sage cream on the unctuous finish.
Drink now through 2024. 2,300 cases made.—K.M.
90 Bokisch Garnacha Blanca Borden Ranch
Vista Luna Vineyard 2019 $22 Sleek and citrusy,
with lemon blossom, lime zest, grapefruit and apple fla-
vors that are both elegant and powerful, with a refreshing
finish. Drink now. 300 cases made.—M.W.
89 Bokisch Albariño Clements Hills Terra Alta
Vineyard 2019 $22 Stylish and intense lemon-lime
flavors are mouthwatering, with grassy notes, herbal de-
tails and an accent of dried apricot on the sleek finish.
Drink now. 1,100 cases made.—M.W.
89 Jamieson Ranch Sauvignon Blanc Lake
County Silver Spur 2019 $18 Flavors of mango, peach
and citrus are generous and intense, with touches of lemon
verbena and fresh ginger, followed by a mouthwatering
finish. Drink now. 2,500 cases made.—M.W.
88 Neyers Chardonnay Carneros 2018 $35
Juicy, with ripe Fuji apple and melon flavors that feature
plenty of toasty notes. Light vanilla accents on the finish.
Drink now. 7,261 cases made.—K.M.
87 Cline Sauvignon Blanc North Coast 2019
$13 Lemongrass, lanolin and pear notes have a fresh
juicy thread of acidity, with details of lemon verbena and
candied ginger that linger on the finish. Drink now. 5,000
cases made.—M.W.
87 Toad Hollow Chardonnay Mendocino County
Unoaked Francine’s Selection 2019 $15 Crisp,
with snappy sugar pea notes to the well-spiced flavors of
Golden Delicious apple and quince, showing honeycomb
accents on the finish. Drink now. 45,000 cases made.—K.M.
87 Tortoise Creek Chardonnay Lodi 2018 $12
Juicy, with notes of dried mint and tarragon to the dried
apple and baked pear flavors. Buttered toast accents on
the finish. Drink now. 5,000 cases made.—K.M.
OREGON
Chardonnay
93 Bergström Chardonnay Willamette Valley
Sigrid 2018 $110 Vibrant and steely, with bright acid-
ity, this lovely white offers orange blossom, lemon zest and
crisp mineral flavors that speed toward the rich, snappy
finish. Drink now through 2022. 460 cases made.—T.F.
93 Lingua Franca Chardonnay Eola-Amity Hills
Lingua Franca Estate 2018 $50 A wine that unfurls
slowly with impressive results. Multilayered kiwi, green
apple and stony mineral accents build structure and rich-
ness on a lingering finish. Drink now through 2022. 1,000
cases made.—T.F.
93 Lingua Franca Chardonnay Willamette
Valley Sisters 2018 $90 Brisk and steely, with pin-
point focus, this version offers lemon blossom, quince and
crushed rock accents that linger on the vibrant finish.
Drink now. 290 cases made.—T.F.
92 Bergström Chardonnay Willamette Valley
Old Stones 2018 $40 Detailed, steely and precise,
offering tart apple, lemon and river stone flavors that speed
to the vibrant ending. Drink now. 1,499 cases made.—T.F.
92 Lingua Franca Chardonnay Willamette
Valley Avni 2018 $30 Polished and elegantly layered,
with expressive Asian pear, jasmine flower and steely min-
eral accents that finish on a rich, vibrant note. Drink now
through 2022. 2,000 cases made.—T.F.
91 Drouhin Oregon Roserock Chardonnay
Eola-Amity Hills 2018 $35 Steely and vibrant, with
pinpoint notes of green apple and grapefruit, showing a
trace of flint on the long, crisp finish. Drink now through
2022. 2,550 cases made.—T.F.
 New Releases: Oregon
OREGON
Pinot Noir
94 Alexana Pinot Noir Dundee Hills Revana
Vineyard 2018 $55 This vibrant red is coiled with
tension, offering dynamic raspberry and blueberry flavors
that gather notes of spiced cinnamon and orange oil,
building toward medium-grained tannins. Drink now
through 2030. 1,858 cases made.—T.F.
94 Colene Clemens Pinot Noir Chehalem
Mountains Dopp Creek 2018 $30 This version is
defined by a brisk and refreshing minerality that brings
focus to refined and expressive raspberry, rose petal and
toasty spice flavors, building intensity toward fine-grain
tannins. Drink now through 2029. 3,241 cases made.—T.F.
94 Lingua Franca Pinot Noir Eola-Amity Hills
The Plow 2018 $60 Graceful in its complexity and
elegantly expressive, offering lithe raspberry and cherry
flavors that are laced with a hint of crushed stone and
black tea that build tension toward medium-grained tan-
nins. Drink now through 2029. 650 cases made.—T.F.
94 Maggy Hawk Pinot Noir Dundee Hills Jory
Hills Vineyard 2018 $65 Opens with a silky texture
and then finds an intense beam of loamy acidity and
savory tannins that are framed by spirited cherry and basil
blossom accents and build richness and tension on the
finish. Drink now through 2029. 446 cases made.—T.F.
94 Penner-Ash Pinot Noir Yamhill-Carlton Shea
Vineyard 2018 $75 Refined and structured, this red
is enveloped in supple, multilayered cherry and raspberry
flavors that pull in orange blossom and spiced tea accents,
unfolding toward refined tannins. Drink now through
2028. 1,445 cases made.—T.F.
93 Alexana Pinot Noir Dundee Hills East Blocks
Volcanic Soils 2018 $65 This savory red is pinpoint
in definition, offering tight yet refined cherry, smoky un-
derbrush and black tea flavors, with medium-grained tan-
nins. Drink now through 2028. 327 cases made.—T.F.
93 Archery Summit Pinot Noir Dundee Hills
Archer’s Edge Vineyard 2018 $90 Lithe and agile,
with multilayered raspberry and cherry flavors that take
on toasty cinnamon, black tea and orange blossom accents,
building toward polished tannins. Drink now through
2027. 457 cases made.—T.F.
93 Archery Summit Pinot Noir Dundee Hills
Arcus Vineyard 2018 $125 Rich and polished yet
impeccably structured, with silky raspberry, toasty cinna-
mon and river stone accents that finish with refined tan-
nins. Drink now through 2028. 263 cases made.—T.F.
93 Archery Summit Pinot Noir Dundee Hills
Summit Vineyard 2018 $150 Elegantly complex and
expressive, with rich raspberry and cherry flavors that are
accented with savory tea and toasty spice notes, building
polish toward refined tannins. Drink now through 2028.
263 cases made.—T.F.
93 Archery Summit Pinot Noir Willamette
Valley 2018 $45 Polished and harmonious, offering
expressive flavors of floral blueberry and raspberry that
gather accents of orange blossom and spice cinnamon and
build richness on the long finish. Drink now through 2028.
2,061 cases made.—T.F.
93 Bethel Heights Pinot Noir Eola-Amity Hills
Flat Block 2018 $60 Shows definition and a tight
focus, with handsome black cherry, orange blossom and
stony mineral notes that build richness toward refined
tannins. Drink now through 2028. 201 cases made.—T.F.
93 Bethel Heights Pinot Noir Eola-Amity Hills
Justice Vineyard 2018 $56 Expressive raspberry and
rose petal aromas lead to multilayered cherry, pomegran-
ate and spiced tea flavors that finish with medium-grained
tannins. Drink now through 2028. 247 cases made.—T.F.
93 Bethel Heights Pinot Noir Eola-Amity Hills
Straight Talk
West Block 2018 $60 Well-buffed tannins pair with
richly structured cherry and raspberry flavors that draw Join a series of Instagram conservations between
in black tea and dusky spice flavors. Best from 2022
through 2030. 255 cases made.—T.F.
Wine Spectator editors and respected leaders in the
worlds of wine and hospitality, spanning current events,
93 Domaine Drouhin Pinot Noir Dundee Hills business news and personal thoughts.
Laurène 2017 $70 Sleek and elegantly complex, with
detailed cherry, raspberry and green tea flavors that fan
out and build richness on the long finish. Drink now
through 2028. 3,200 cases made.—T.F.
93 Elk Cove Pinot Noir Yamhill-Carlton Mount
Richmond 2018 $60 Harmonious and elegantly com-
plex, with pretty rose petal, raspberry and black tea flavors
that build richness and tension toward fine-grained tan-
nins. Drink now through 2028. 991 cases made.—T.F.
93 Gran Moraine Pinot Noir Yamhill-Carlton
2018 $45 Dynamic yet elegant and sleek, with refined
cherry, dusky spice and crushed stone accents that take
on richness and structure toward medium-grained tan-
nins. Drink now through 2028. 6,500 cases made.—T.F.
93 Harper Voit Pinot Noir Eola-Amity Hills Bieze
Vineyard 2018 $65 Refined and sleekly focused, with Regular episodes air
elegantly complex, cherry, savory anise and fresh violet
tones that pick up speed and tension toward fine-grained
Tuesdays and Thursdays
tannins. Drink now through 2028. 300 cases made.—T.F. at 7 p.m. Eastern on our
93 Lingua Franca Pinot Noir Eola-Amity Hills Instagram Live channel
Avni 2018 $30 See Smart Buys, page 81.
93 Nicolas-Jay Pinot Noir Yamhill-Carlton
Bishop Creek 2017 $100 Refined and keenly focused,
with distinctive cherry and guava flavors that are laced
with rose petal and savory spice accents, picking up ten-
sion and polish toward fine-grained tannins. Drink now
through 2027. 270 cases made.—T.F.
93 Purple Hands Pinot Noir Dundee Hills
Kropf Vineyard 2018 $55 Sleek and well-defined,
with vibrant raspberry, savory cinnamon and toasted spice
flavors that linger with fine-grained tannins. Drink now
through 2028. 300 cases made.—T.F. Now In Our IGTV Archives
93 Résonance Pinot Noir Yamhill-Carlton Choix
JAN. 14
du Couer Résonance Vineyard 2018 $90 A sleek Jean-Baptiste Rivail, CEO, Newton Vineyard
and lovely wine, with delicately expressive violet, cherry
JAN. 5
and river stone accents that glide toward medium-grained
tannins. Drink now through 2028. 150 cases made.—T.F. Véronique Drouhin-Boss, winemaker, Maison Joseph
Drouhin and Domaine Drouhin
93 Résonance Pinot Noir Yamhill-Carlton
DEC. 22
Résonance Vineyard 2018 $65 This vibrant red
is jammed with tension, offering well-defined cherry, Mary J. Blige, founder and owner, Sun Goddess Wines
raspberry and rose petal accents that are laced with hints DEC. 15
of mineral, building structure toward refined tannins. Louis-Fabrice Latour, president of Maison Louis Latour
Drink now through 2028. 1,825 cases made.—T.F.
93 Roco Pinot Noir Yamhill-Carlton Marsh
DEC. 10
Robin Lail, founder and owner of Lail Vineyards in
Estate Vineyard 2018 $50 Sleek and elegantly lay- Napa Valley
ered, with raspberry and cinnamon notes that show a touch
of orange tea, picking up speed and richness toward refined DEC. 8
tannins. Drink now through 2028. 142 cases made.—T.F. Michel Chapoutier, owner and winemaker of M.
Chapoutier in Hermitage
93 Soter Pinot Noir Yamhill-Carlton Mineral
Springs Ranch 2018 $75 Structured yet elegant, this DEC. 3
unfurls with raspberry and plum flavors that are layered Erwan Faiveley, CEO of Burgundy’s Domaine Faiveley
with dusky spice and savory tea notes, building tension DEC. 1
toward fine-grained tannins. Drink now through 2028.
Cristie Kerr, famed golfer and owner and founder of
2,020 cases made.—T.F.
California’s Kerr Cellars
93 Stoller Pinot Noir Dundee Hills Reserve NOV. 24
2018 $50 Refined and pinpoint in structure, this red
offers vibrant cherry and pomegranate flavors that are Eric Ripert, chef and owner of New York’s Le Bernardin
laced with spice tea and orange blossom notes, lingering NOV. 19
toward fine-grained tannins. Drink now through 2028. Ken Forrester, owner and winemaker of namesake
8,500 cases made.—T.F. South African Chenin Blanc specialist
92 Archery Summit Pinot Noir Dundee Hills
Renegade Ridge Vineyard 2018 $90 Shows den-
sity and complexity without being ponderous, with rich
WATCH ON INSTAGRAM
Scan the QR code to start watching
plum and tarragon flavors accented by sassafras and orange
peel. Drink now through 2028. 222 cases made.—T.F. on our IGTV channel, or visit
instagram.com/wine_spectator/channel
MARCH 31, 2021 • WINE SPECTATOR 101

92 Argyle Pinot Noir Willamette Valley Artisan
Series Reserve 2018 $40 Refined and sleekly struc-
tured, with multilayered raspberry and cherry flavors that
are laced with black tea and spice and glide on the long
finish. Drink now through 2027. 7,000 cases made.—T.F.
92 Bethel Heights Pinot Noir Eola-Amity Hills
Aeolian 2018 $50 A burst of fruit is at the core of
this structured red, with bright notes of cherry and tart
blueberry accented by steely mineral and black tea accents
that race toward bright tannins. Drink now through 2028.
387 cases made.—T.F.
92 Élevée Pinot Noir Willamette Valley
Departure 2017 $85 Sleek and delicately refined,
with cherry and blueberry flavors laced with black tea and
orange peel, building tension toward medium-grained tan-
nins. Drink now through 2025. 200 cases made.—T.F.
92 Geodesy Pinot Noir Eola-Amity Hills Eola
Springs Vineyard 2018 $80 A vibrant red, with
elegantly structured cherry and pomegranate flavors that
take on dusky spice and black tea flavors as this builds
toward fine-grained tannins. Drink now through 2028.
159 cases made.—T.F.
92 Stephen Goff Pinot Noir
Yamhill-Carlton Shea Vineyard
2017 $50 Structured and refined,
with polished pomegranate and
cherry flavors that draw in orange
peel and black tea accents and fin-
ish with medium-grained tannins.
Drink now through 2027. 193 cases
STEPHEN GOFF
made.—T.F. Owner & Winemaker
92 Hamilton Russell Pinot Noir Eola-Amity Hills
Zena Crown 2018 $86 This polished version is
gracefully structured, offering raspberry and bold cherry
flavors that take on hints of underbrush and black tea and
build toward refined tannins. Drink now through 2028.
172 cases made.—T.F.
92 Harper Voit Pinot Noir Dundee Hills
Terrarossa Vineyard 2018 $65 Plump and rather
flamboyant, with luscious raspberry and cherry flavors that
glide on the long, supple finish, accented by notes of
orange blossom and toffee. Drink now through 2026. 675
cases made.—T.F.
92 Harper Voit Pinot Noir Willamette Valley
Antiquum Vineyard 2018 $65 Structured yet
polished and refined, with deeply flavored notes of black
cherry and blueberry that blend with black tea and blood
orange accents and finish with fine-grained tannins. Drink
now through 2027. 300 cases made.—T.F.
92 Harper Voit Pinot Noir Willamette Valley
Strandline 2018 $40 Focused and expressive, with
layered cherry and spiced cinnamon flavors that build
tension toward fine-grained tannins. Drink now through
2028. 500 cases made.—T.F.
92 Lingua Franca Pinot Noir Eola-Amity Hills
Estate 2018 $50 Structured and refined, with sleek
and steely raspberry and blueberry flavors laced with stony
minerality and fresh violets. Builds tension toward me-
dium-grained tannins. Drink now through 2028. 750 cases
made.—T.F.
92 Lingua Franca Pinot Noir Eola-Amity Hills
Mimi’s Mind 2018 $90 Tense and vibrant, with a
steely core of acidity and tannins framed by bright cherry
and cranberry flavors that gather in tension and tight tan-
nins. Needs time. Best from 2022 through 2030. 430 cases
made.—T.F.
92 Lingua Franca Pinot Noir Eola-Amity Hills
Petit Géant 2018 $60 A gutsy yet polished Pinot,
with deep raspberry and blueberry flavors accented with
fresh violet and stony minerality, building tension toward
medium-grained tannins. Best from 2022 through 2030.
210 cases made.—T.F.
102 WINE SPECTATOR • MARCH 31, 2021
New Releases: Oregon
92 David Paige Pinot Noir Willamette Valley
2018 $42 Polished and refined, with nuanced rasp-
berry and pomegranate flavors that draw in black tea and
orange blossom accents and build toward medium-grain
tannins. Drink now through 2028. 400 cases made.—T.F.
92 Penner-Ash Pinot Noir Eola-Amity Hills
Zena Crown Vineyard 2018 $72 There’s a simmer-
ing intensity at the core of this red, with refined raspberry
flavors that show hints of blueberry, crushed stone, violet
and savory tea, finishing with medium-grained tannins.
Drink now through 2029. 503 cases made.—T.F.
92 Penner-Ash Pinot Noir Willamette Valley
2018 $45 Offers plush elegance and fine structure,
with geranium and other floral aromas accented by boy-
senberry, cherry, dusky spice and orange peel. Drink now
through 2028. 9,961 cases made.—T.F.
92 Résonance Pinot Noir Dundee Hills Choix
du Couer Découverte Vineyard 2018 $80 This
is impeccably structured, buoyed by a steely core of acid-
ity and minerality framed by bright cherry and raspberry
flavors and laced with savory cinnamon and floral spices.
Drink now through 2028. 180 cases made.—T.F.
92 Résonance Pinot Noir Dundee Hills Décou-
verte Vineyard 2018 $65 Filled with tension and
presence, but rather tight at the moment, with floral cherry
and pomegranate flavors that mix with green tea and steely
minerality, building toward firm tannins. Needs time. Best
from 2022 through 2028. 1,155 cases made.—T.F.
92 Résonance Pinot Noir Willamette Valley
2018 $35 Pinpoint in structure, with a dense core of
lively minerality, this handsome red has cherry and savory
tea flavors that build tension toward medium-grained tan-
nins. Drink now through 2028. 7,736 cases made.—T.F.
92 Soter Pinot Noir Willamette Valley North
Valley 2018 $35 Supple and expressive, with elegantly
structured raspberry and cherry flavors that gather appeal-
ing layers of clove and spice tea. Drink now through 2028.
7,647 cases made.—T.F.
92 Trisaetum Pinot Noir Dundee Hills Wich-
mann Dundee 2018 $55 Precise yet expressive, with
an elegant backbone of brisk acidity and tannins framed by
blueberry and cherry flavors that are laced with dark tea
and cardamom, building tension toward medium-grained
tannins. Drink now through 2028. 530 cases made.—T.F.
92 Trisaetum Pinot Noir Willamette Valley
Estates Reserve 2018 $75 Refined and focused, with
elegantly layered raspberry, orange blossom and spice tea
flavors that pick up speed toward fine-grained tannins.
Drink now through 2027. 400 cases made.—T.F.
92 Trisaetum Pinot Noir Yamhill-Carlton Coast
Range Estate 2018 $55 Harmonious and delicately
layered with pretty rose petal, raspberry and orange peel
tones that glide lithely on the long finish. Drink now
through 2027. 575 cases made.—T.F.
91 Argyle Pinot Noir Eola-Amity Hills Nuthouse
Master Series 2018 $55 Showing tension and verve,
this offers lively acidity framed by blueberry and cherry fla-
vors, laced with rose petal and spice. Ends with fine-grained
tannins. Drink now through 2028. 1,852 cases made.—T.F.
91 Battle Creek Pinot Noir Willamette Valley
Reserve 2018 $38 This has verve and structure, with
appealing guava, black tea and dusky spice flavors that
finish with medium-grain tannins. Drink now through
2028. 2,068 cases made.—T.F.
91 Elk Cove Pinot Noir
Willamette Valley 2018 $32
Such a pretty and approachable red,
with delicate cherry, rose petal and
spice flavors that linger toward pol-
ished tannins. Drink now through ADAM CAMPBELL
2026. 7,826 cases made.—T.F. Owner & Winemaker
91 Flâneur Pinot Noir Willamette Valley Cuvée
Constantin 2017 $40 Offers a lively beam of vibrant
cherry and raspberry flavors, laced with rose petal and
dusky spices that finish with refined tannins. Drink now
through 2026. 730 cases made.—T.F.
91 Iota Pinot Noir Eola-Amity Hills Pelos
Sandberg Vineyard 2017 $42 There’s a tight back-
bone of tannins and acidity at the core of this structured
red, offering raspberry, guava and savory anise flavors.
Drink now through 2027. 540 cases made.—T.F.
91 Lemelson Pinot Noir Yamhill-Carlton
Stermer Vineyard 2017 $48 Tightly focused, this
version offers stout raspberry and pomegranate flavors that
take on green tea and spice accents and build toward
medium-grained tannins. Drink now through 2026. 373
cases made.—T.F.
91 Purple Hands Pinot Noir Willamette Valley
Lone Oak Ranch 2018 $30 Features a lively beam
of fresh acidity and minerally tannins that are sealed in
vibrant raspberry and black tea flavors. Drink now through
2027. 2,700 cases made.—T.F.
90 Lange Pinot Noir Willamette Valley
Classiqué 2018 $25 Sleek and snappy, with vibrant
cherry, raspberry and fresh violet aromas that glide along
to the tart, refreshing finish. Drink now through 2026.
5,000 cases made.—T.F.
90 Maison L’Envoyé Pinot Noir Willamette
Valley Two Messengers 2018 $30 Vibrant and
elegantly complex, this offers snappy black raspberry and
blueberry flavors laced with fresh tarragon and spice notes,
finishing with medium-grained tannins. Drink now
through 2027. 3,000 cases made.—T.F.
90 Willamette Valley Vineyards Pinot Noir
Willamette Valley Estate 2018 $32 Crisp and lively
flavors of raspberry and pomegranate pair with orange
blossom and spiced cinnamon notes in this red, finishing
with refined tannins. Best from 2022 through 2028. 15,000
cases made.—T.F.
88 Browne Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2017
$20 A brisk and lively red, with tart cherry and rose
petal tones accented by spiced tea notes. Drink now
through 2027. 3,243 cases made.—T.F.
88 Pike Road Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2018
$20 Fruit-forward and juicy, with cherry and toasty spice
flavors. Drink now. 9,933 cases made.—T.F.
88 Wine By Joe Pinot Noir Oregon 2017 $19
A festive fruit bomb, with juicy cherry and toasty spice
flavors. Drink now through 2023. 25,000 cases made.—T.F.
87 Carabella Pinot Noir Willamette Valley
Plowbuster 2018 $20 Juicy and zesty, with raspberry
and orange peel flavors. Drink now through 2022. 2,800
cases made.—T.F.
87 Planet Oregon Pinot Noir Willamette Valley
2018 $22 Juicy and easygoing, with cherry and toasty
spice flavors. Drink now. 15,481 cases made.—T.F.
87 Portlandia Pinot Noir Willamette Valley
2018 $22 This fresh and juicy red tastes like Pinot
Nouveau, with easygoing cherry and spicy vanilla flavors.
Drink now through 2024. 10,000 cases made.—T.F.
87 Primarius Pinot Noir Oregon 2018 $19
An easygoing and juicy version, offering sleek and zesty
raspberry and spice flavors. Drink now through 2023.
6,272 cases made.—T.F.
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Vol. 45, No. 15

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MARCH 31, 2021 • WINE SPECTATOR 103

 UNFILTERED
A Gentleman’s Pour: Taylor Fladgate Saints Owner’s Labor of Love
and New Kingsman Film Launch What do you do if you already own an NFL team, an NBA
franchise and a brewery? Make some wine. Gayle Benson,

90-Year-Old Port owner of the New Orleans Saints and Pelicans, recently re-
leased Twelfth Labour Wine Company, a new wine brand fea-
turing a Napa Cabernet Sauvignon and a Sonoma Chardon-
nay. Benson launched the project with her now late husband,
Tom. “Tom had a great passion for wine and always talked
about how much fun it would be to have his own vineyard,”
said Gayle in a statement. In 2015, they partnered with Ruston
Family Vineyard in St. Helena to create the brand. Consulting
winemaker Robbie Meyer, who has worked at Peter Michael,
Aubert and Lewis Cellars, heads the winemaking. Tom Benson
died in 2018, but had the chance to taste the first vintage, the
2016, which has now been released.
—Mitch Frank

H
ow does the fictional Duke
of Oxford stay calm when
history’s worst tyrants and
criminal masterminds wreak havoc?
A glass of 90-year-old Port is said to
do the trick.
After multiple delays due to the
pandemic, director Matthew
Vaughn’s The King’s Man, the third
film in his spy-action-comedy
Kingsman series, is set for release
Gayle and Tom Benson celebrate Super Bowl XLIV win
in mid-March. But fans can get an early taste, so to speak, as Vaughn
and 20th Century Studios have partnered with Taylor Fladgate to cre-
ate a rare bottling of Port that came to market in December.
The idea for a limited-edition Taylor Fladgate Very Old Tawny Port The Legend of Witch’s Wine
started in 2018, when Fladgate managing director Adrian Bridge met
When Antiques Roadshow’s Andy McConnell was presented with an old wine
Vaughn right before production began on the film. The self-proclaimed

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: 20TH CENTURY STUDIOS; COURTESY OF THE FLADGATE PARTNERSHIP; SKIP BOLEN/WIREIMAGE; YVONNE WOODCRAFT
bottle, discovered underground, for a 2016 appraisal, he naturally thought it
history buffs discussed the era portrayed in the film, including World contained wine. He determined it was a 19th-century bottle and even gamely
War I and the historical figures encountered in the film by the Duke volunteered to sample it. Using a syringe, McConnell extracted a droplet, placed
of Oxford character (played by Ralph Fiennes), including King George it on his finger and tasted it. “I think it’s Port,” he declared. “It’s Port or red
V, Kaiser Wilhelm II and Tsar Nicholas II, all of whom are played by wine. It’s one or the other. Or it’s full of rusty old nails.”
But later, Loughborough University chemist Alan Massey took the initiative to
Tom Hollander (the three monarchs were first cousins).
run an analysis of the contents. And last year, McConnell and the mystery bottle
“By the time of [WWI], Port had become firmly established in Brit- met on Antiques Roadshow again, where show host Fiona Bruce revealed the
ish society as one of the finest of all wines, surrounded by a sense of contents: a handful of brass pins, a human hair, a small crustacean, a bit of alcohol
ritual and a degree of reverence,” Bridge told Wine Spectator. and … a hearty glug of human urine. As Bruce explained, it wasn’t a bottle of
Vaughn, who meticulously researches historical food, drink and fine wine, but rather a “witch’s bottle,” a folk-magic artifact intended to protect
against supernatural forces. McConnell did not offer a tasting note.
dining while creating his projects, says that what people drink can tell
—Collin Dreizen
you a lot about who they are. The director himself says he is a Port
man. “I’ve always loved Port and the after-dinner ceremony it brings
with it,” he said.
The Kingsman-edition Taylor Fladgate Very Old Tawny Port was
aged nearly nine decades in oak casks and is packaged in a crystal de-
canter with gold detailing and wood presentation box. The 100 bottles
made are available for purchase at select wine merchants throughout
the U.S., priced at a Kingsman-esque $3,800 each.
—Shawn Zylberberg

UNFILTERED
Read the full stories online, and
get all the latest scoops on wine and pop culture! Roadshow’s Andy McConnell (left) gets schooled on “the witch bottle.”
WineSpectator.com/Unfiltered

104 WINE SPECTATOR • MARCH 31, 2021