How to Do Concrete – Guide to Controlling

Cracks – Slab on Grade Concrete – Do it

Yourself Guide to Controlling Cracks (DIY)
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DIY Concrete Guide: There are two

guarantees when it comes to a concrete driveway or slab. It will get hard and it will crack.
Concrete shrinks as it dries out and when it cools during temperature changes. When control
joints are not provided or cut into the slab, uncontrolled shrinkage cracks occur at fairly
predictable intervals. Because these cracks are predictable, they can be controlled with pre-
planned joints. Preventing cracks with proper jointing and good construction practices, and
adequate reinforcing is far less expensive than making repairs later. There are three different
types of joints used in slab on grade construction: Contraction or “Control Joints”, Isolation or
“expansion Joints”, and “Construction Joints”.
Control Joints (Contraction Joints)

Control Joints (Contraction Joints) are

formed, sawed, or tooled grooves which weaken the concrete so it cracks at the joint. These
joints accommodate the movement caused by temperature changes and drying shrinkage.

Joint Spacing is Critical – As shown in the drawing above an un-jointed slab will usually
develop a similar pattern of uncontrolled cracking cause by shrinkage. The patterns will change
depending on the dimensions of the slab, (including depth), the psi of the concrete, curing, and
the temperature extremes the slab is exposed to especially during the first few hours and days
after the pour. If joints are spaced to far apart uncontrolled cracks can occur between the Control
Joints.

Two rules that will help when pre-planning control joints.

 Rule #1 – Keep joints as square as possible.

 Rule #2 – In order to prevent intermediate cracking, space joints (in feet) no more than 2
– 3 times the slab thickness (in inches). Refer to the table below for the recommended
joint spacing. The thicker the slab the farther apart these joints can be place without
violating Rule #1.

Example:
A sidewalk that is 4” thick but only 3’ wide using only the chart below you would cut joints 8’ –
12’ apart, however if you did this it would develop uncontrolled cracks approximately every 3’ –
4’. So Rule #1 (Keep Joints as square as possible) first then if it applies rule number 2.
Joint Depth is Critical – It is extremely important for the joints to be cut at least ¼ of the slab
depth. This will weaken the slab along this joint line and let the slab crack at this controlled
point. If the depth is not deep enough the crack may not follow the desired path along the joint.
Refer to the table below for the recommended joint depth.

DIY Concrete Guide: Cut Joints A.S.A.P.

Waiting to long to cut joints is a rookie

mistake. Waiting until the next day is normally to long in the Florida Climate. In hot weather,
concrete may crack if joints are not cut within 6 – 8 hours after finishing. The ruler of thumb is,
cut joints as soon as the concrete is hard enough that the edges don’t ravel (dislodging the
aggregates) by the saw blade. With conventional wet saws, you can usually start to cut joints 4 –
8 hours after finishing. Using a long-handle lightweight dry-cut saw will allow joints to be cut
almost immediately after finishing. The saw is designed to let the operator cut up to 30’ without
walking on the slab.

Re-entrant Corners Should be Avoided

Re-entrant corners will usually cause cracking. Proper planning of the joint pattern to eliminate
re-entrant corners will correct this problem. Even though you isolate the column box as shown
here the slab will still develop uncontrolled cracks. In most cases, as shown here, the simplest
way to avoid the re-entrant corner may be to rearrange the joint pattern.

DIY Concrete Guide: Isolation Joints

Install Isolation joint material anywhere concrete will come into contact with existing slabs, steps
or buildings. The Isolation joint should reach the bottom of the slab, this ensures the new slab
will be separated from existing structures. If there is no isolation joint as the new slab cures it
will shrink slightly, if the existing slab which is not moving is not isolated the new slab will
crack as it pulls away from the existing slab. When installing use a chalk line to mark the top of
the isolation joint. Secure the isolation joint to the existing slab prior to the pour, or use a chalk
line to mark the wall, then as you start the pour, shovel some concrete up against the isolation
joint to hold it in place.
DIY Concrete Guide: Construction Joints
Keyed Construction Joints provides for the transition from one days pour to the next. When
concrete placement is stop at the end of the day, a construction joint must be formed. Keyed
Construction joints are also used when pouring adjacent paving lanes and load transfer is
important, such as with heavy forklifts. If the ends of the slab are not supported by the keyed
construction joint, cracking may occur 1’ – 2’ from the joint. It is critical that the key measure ¼
of the slab thickness. A beveled wood strip which attaches to the side of the form can be used for
the key (See example Below). Butt joints (Smooth Face) are satisfactory if no load transfer is
required.

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