DK Eyewitness Travel Guide Morocco 2019 Edition

EYEWITNESS
MOROCCO
CONTENTS
DISCOVER MOROCCO 6
Welcome to Morocco ................................. 8 Morocco Itineraries ....................................24
Reasons to Love Morocco..................... 10 Morocco Your Way .....................................34
Explore Morocco...........................................14 A Year in Morocco.......................................62
Getting to Know Morocco ......................16 A Brief History .............................................. 64
EXPERIENCE MOROCCO 70
Rabat............................................................72 Meknès and Volubilis ......................192
Northern Atlantic Coast.................90 Middle Atlas .......................................... 212
Casablanca ........................................... 106 Marrakech ............................................ 230
Southern Atlantic Coast................ 122 High Atlas ............................................. 260
Ouarzazate and
Tangier..................................................... 140 the Southern Oases ....................... 276
Mediterranean Southern Morocco

Coast and The Rif..............................154 and Western Sahara .......................298
Fès............................................................... 172
NEED TO KNOW 312

Before You Go .............................................314 Index ................................................................. 322
Getting Around ...........................................316 Glossary and Phrasebook .................. 330
Practical Information ..............................320 Acknowledgments...................................334
Left: colourful baskets for sale in a souk

Previous page: sand dunes in the Erg Chebbi desert
Night market, Jemaa el-Fna, Marrakech
DISCOVER
Welcome to Morocco ...................................8
Reasons to Love Morocco.......................10
Explore Morocco............................................ 14
Getting to Know Morocco ....................... 16
Morocco Itineraries ..................................... 24
Morocco Your Way ......................................34
A Year in Morocco........................................ 62
A Brief History ................................................64

WELCOME TO
MOROCCO
DISCOVER Morocco
Bustling souks full of glittering goods, heady

with the smell of spices. Shady palm oases and
rolling seas of scorching sand dunes. Snow-
capped mountain passes, ancient walled cities
and an endless supply of syrupy-sweet mint tea;
Morocco is a veritable feast for the senses just
waiting to be explored.
1 The magnificent red

mud-brick ksar of Aït
Benhaddou, a striking
example of southern
Moroccan architecture.
2 Dried roses from
the Dadès Valley, sold
throughout Morocco.
3 The busy square at
Jemaa el-Fna, Marrakech. 3
8
Rooted in tradition yet strongly drawn to the The north, too, is where you will find Morocco’s
modern world, Morocco is a country of stark most fabulous cities, including the imperial
contradiction and dazzling diversity. Over the quartet of Fes, Marrakech, Meknès and Rabat.
centuries, its African, European and Middle All four have historic walled medinas and
Eastern roots have become deeply intertwined, magnificent mosques and palaces. Equally
resulting in a unique cultural richness particular atmospheric are Morocco’s coastal cities,
to this vibrant corner of the world. including the bohemian crossroads of Tangier,
The most breathtaking natural scenery, laidback Essaouira and art deco Casablanca.
including the rugged landscapes of the High This guide breaks Morocco down into easily
Atlas and Middle Atlas mountain ranges, the navigable chapters, with detailed itineraries,
enclosed green valleys of the Rif, and the palm expert local knowledge and comprehensive
groves and Kasbah-guarded gorges of the maps to help you plan your perfect trip.
southern oases, is concentrated in the upper Whether you are here for a relaxing weekend
half of the country. With a car, or by making getaway or an ambitious country-wide tour,
use of the country’s bus and rail network, it is this Eyewitness guide will ensure that you
possible to see the very best of Morocco in a see the very best the country has to offer.
couple of adventure-packed weeks. Enjoy the book, and welcome to Morocco.
9
REASONS TO LOVE
MOROCCO
DISCOVER Reasons to Love Morocco
Winding streets in ancient cities, colourful souks, precipitous mountain

peaks and vast desert dunescapes. There are so many reasons to visit
this vibrant and intoxicating country. Here are some of our favourites.
1 MEDIEVAL MEDINAS
A medina is an historic old city,
of which Morocco has many.
Laced with twisting alleys and
full of hidden treasures, they
are fabulous places to explore
and lose yourself in time.
ESSAOUIRA 2
This small blue-and-white city
on the Atlantic coast has long
been associated with music
and the arts, and is famed for
its laidback, sea-salted,
bohemian charm (p126).
3 MOROCCAN CUISINE
From slowcooked meat tagines
to freshly picked figs with
homemade yogurt, Moroccan
food is often simple but packed
with flavour from local herbs,
spices and regional ingredients.
10
MOROCCAN CHIC 4
Fashion designers the world
over have found inspiration in
the vibrant colours and
sumptuous textures of
Morocco, from Yves Saint
Laurent to Tom Ford.
THE MAGIC OF
JEMAA EL-FNA 5
Every night storytellers
entrance audiences, charmers
cast spells and Gnaoua
musicians play on Marrakech’s
main square. It is the most
otherworldly of places (p236).
HIKING IN
THE HIGH ATLAS 6
The High Atlas mountains offer
numerous trails suitable for
both beginners and experts,
taking in isolated mountain
villages and spectacular
scenery (p224).
RIADS 7
A riad is a traditional
townhouse with a courtyard
garden. In recent years, many
have been turned into intimate
boutique hotels brimming with
Moroccan charm.
DISCOVER Reasons to Love Morocco
CINEMATIC
LANDSCAPES 8
You may experience déjà vu in
Morocco – the country’s
stunning scenery has starred
in countless TV shows and
blockbusters, from Gladiator to
Game of Thrones (p52).
9 MINT TEA
Made with fresh mint,
Moroccan tea is refreshing
even in the hottest weather.
Moroccan hospitality is such
that visitors may be offered it
dozen times a day or more.
12
10 AMAZING
ARCHITECTURE
Most mosques may be out of
bounds, but there are plenty
of other historic buildings,
from tombs to royal palaces,
lavishly adorned with colourful
tiling and intricate plasterwork.
SURFING THE
ATLANTIC COAST 11
The Atlantic swell on Morocco’s
windswept southern shores is
legendary. For something
really special head down to the
picturesque surfers’ enclave of
Sidi Ifni (p304).
THE SOUKS OF
MARRAKECH 12
Every town and city has souks
selling all manner of goods; the
best are in the dusky-pink city
of Marrakech (p238). Here you
will find the most appealing
mix of trinkets and treasures.
13
EXPLORE
MOROCCO A t l aA nt tl ai cn t i c
This guide divides Morocco into 13 O c e Oa cn e a n
colour-coded sightseeing areas, as
shown on the map below. Find out
more about each area on the N
following pages.
Salé Sa
RABAT RABAT
p72 p72
Rommani Romm
CASABLANCA
CASABLANCA
p106 p106
El-Jadida El-Jadida BerrechidBerrechid
Settat Settat
KhouribgaKhouribga
Sidi Sidi
Oualidia Oualidia Smaïl Smaïl B
Cap Beddouza
Cap Beddouza
SOUTHERN
SOUTHERN
Safi ATLANTIC
Safi COAST COAST
ATLANTIC B
Ben Guerir
Ben Guerir
p122 p122
Talmest Talmest
MARRAKECH
MARRAKECH
p230 p230 ATLAS
HIGH HIGH ATLAS
ït ez t
p260 A em
p260 Aï e
Chichaoua Chichaoua u u
EssaouiraEssaouira ug lley oug ll
o
B Va B Va
Ou
Ou
rik
rik
Asni Asni
aV
aV
Skou
all
all
OukaïmedenOukaïmeden Telouet Telouet

ey
ey
Tamanar Tamanar Imi-n- Imi-n-

Imlil Tisselday
Ouirgane Ouirgane Imlil Tisselday
Tanoute Tanoute
Ouarzazate
Ouarzazate
Tamri Tamri
Taroudannt
Taroudannt
Agadir Agadir
Ait Melloul Ait Melloul
Igherm Igherm Foum ZguidFoum Zguid
Had-Belfa Had-Belfa Tioulit Tioulit

Tata Tata
Tiznit Tiznit TafraouteTafraoute
Akka Akka
Sidi Ifni Sidi Ifni
SOUTHERN MOROCCO
SOUTHERN MOROCCO
AND WESTERN SAHARASAHARA
AND WESTERN
p298 p298
Guelmim Guelmim
iz iz
rkz rkz
Oua Oua
l l
Tan Tan Tan Tan Djebe Dje b e
0 kilometres 100
0 kilometres 100 N N
0 miles 0 miles 100 100
S P A I NS P A I N
MeditM
e rerdaint e ar rna n e Sa en a Sea
TANGIER
TANGIER
p140 p140 Ceuta (SPAIN)
Ceuta (SPAIN)
Cap des Cap des
Trois Fourches
Trois Fourches
Asilah Asilah
Tétouan Tétouan
Al-Hoceima
Al-Hoceima Melilla (SPAIN)
Melilla (SPAIN)
Saïdia Saïdia
Chefchaouen
Chefchaouen Nador Nador
Larache Larache T h e T hi fe Berkane Berkane Maghnia Maghnia
R R i f
Ketama Ketama Oujda Oujda Tlemcen Tlemcen
MEDITERRANEAN
OuezzaneOuezzane COAST COAST
MEDITERRANEAN
AND THE RIFTHE RIF
AND El Aioun El Aioun
NORTHERN
NORTHERN p154 p154 Taourirt Taourirt
ATLANTIC
ATLANTIC
FÈS FÈS
aléCOAST COAST p172 p172 Taza Guercif Guercif
Taza
El Aricha El Aricha
p90 p90
Ain Bni Mathar
Ain Bni Mathar
T KhemissetKhemisset
Sefrou Sefrou
MEKENÈS AND AND
MEKENÈS
VOLUBILIS
VOLUBILIS
mani p192 p192
Aïn Ben Aïn Ben
Khelil Khelil
Missour Missour
MIDDLEMIDDLE
ATLAS ATLAS
Khenifra Khenifra p212 p212
Midelt Midelt Bouarfa Bouarfa
Boujad Boujad
Rich Rich
Beni Mellal
Beni Mellal Figuig Figuig
Imilchil Imilchil Boudnib Boudnib
Beni Beni
Ounif Ounif
Tamtattouchte
Tamtattouchte
Er-Rachidia
Er-Rachidia
Béchar Béchar
Goulmima Goulmima
ez
m BoumalneBoumalne
Tinerhir Tinerhir
y du Dadèsdu Dadès Erfoud Erfoud
e
Rissani Rissani
ura Skoura Alnif Alnif
hro hro
Sar Sar Merzouga Merzouga
l l
Jbe Jbe
OUARZAZATE AND AND
OUARZAZATE
Dr
aa THE
D r SOUTHERN
aa OASES OASES
THE SOUTHERN Ramlia Ramlia
p276 p276
Va
Va
lle
lle
y
TamegrouteTamegroute
Zagora Zagora
AFRICA
Mhamid Mhamid
Rabat TUNISIA IRAQ

ISRAEL
MOROCCO
ALGERIA LIBYA EGYPT
SAUDI
ARABIA
MAURITANIA
MALI NIGER SUDAN
SENEGAL ERITREA
CHAD
BURKINA
GUINEA FASO
NIGERIA
SIERRA SOUTH
ETHIOPIA
LEONE C. AFRICAN SUDAN
LIBERIA REP.
CAMEROON SOMALIA
GHANA UGANDA
A L G AE LR GI A
ER I A IVORY
COAST
TOGO
BENIN
GABON
CONGO
DEMOCRATIC
KENYA
REPUBLIC
OF CONGO TANZANIA Indian
Ocean
At lant ic ANGOLA
MALAWI
Ocean ZAMBIA
ZIMBABWE MADAGASCAR
NAMIBIA
BOTSWANA
MOZAMBIQUE
SOUTH
AFRICA
GETTING TO KNOW
MOROCCO
DISCOVER Morocco
Where you go in Morocco depends on what kind of trip you are planning.
Rest and relaxation are best found in Marrakech, Essaouira and Agadir; Fès
and Meknès are great for history and culture enthusiasts, while the High
Atlas and Southern Oases are hubs for activities and adventures of all sorts.
RABAT Best for

Historical treasures and
PAGE 72
The ever-evolving Atlantic port of Rabat is both an imperial architecture

ancient imperial city and Morocco’s modern capital and Home to
administrative centre. It combines an ancient walled The Mausoleum of Mohammed V,
medina by the sea with an inland city of domes and Chellah Necropolis and
minarets, sweeping terraces, modern structures and Mohammed VI Museum of
grand public buildings. In the Musée de l’Histoire et des Modern and Contemporary Art
Civilisations and Mohammed VI Museum of Modern Experience
and Contemporary Art, Rabat has two of the country’s Bartering for bargain carpets in
best museums, while ancient history is represented the bustling souks of the medina
by a sedate medina and the atmospheric Chellah
Necropolis filled with hidden treasures.
16
NORTHERN Best for
Archaeological sites and
ATLANTIC COAST
PAGE 90
low-lying coastal wetlands
Stretching north of Rabat to the outskirts of Tangier’s Home to

sprawling metropolis, this little visited region is the The characterful coastal
best place to discover Morocco’s rich Phoenician, cities of Asilah and Salé
Roman, Portuguese and Spanish heritage. It combines Experience
soft-sand beaches, coastal lagoons, epic forests and The bountiful produce of
peaceful fishing towns with some of the oldest the local countryside at Ksar
archaeological sites in the country. Highlights include el-Kebir’s Sunday market
the old pirate stronghold of Salé and the small, artsy
Andalusian-style town of Asilah.
CASABLANCA
PAGE 106
The commercial and financial capital

of Morocco, this modern and somewhat
brash city is brimming with energy
and verve. Largely developed by the
French in the early 20th century, it
retains a wonderful legacy of Art-Deco
architecture; crumbling Mauresque
masterpieces line wide, tree-lined
avenues. Casablanca is home to more
skyscrapers than minarets, although its
famed Hassan II Mosque is the country’s
largest and most impressive – not to
mention the only mosque in Morocco
that can be visited by non-Muslims.
Best for
Boutique shopping, fine
dining and a vibrant nightlife
Home to
Hassan II Mosque and
Art-Deco architecture
Experience
Sipping cocktails and listening to live music
at one of the many stylish bars in Ain Diab
17
SOUTHERN
ATLANTIC
PAGE 122
COAST
The coastline south of Casablanca is
dotted with many small towns, some
of which were built by the Portuguese.
DISCOVER Morocco
Many of these places, such as El-Jadida

and Oualidia, are popular local resorts.
Most visitors content themselves with
a short trip to Essaouira, a compact
walled city on the sea. With its lovely
old medina and a slightly bohemian air,
it’s a great place to enjoy fresh seafood
and cold beer while watching the sun
sink beyond the ramparts.
Best for
Fresh seafood and coastal retreats
Home to
Serene seaside towns Essaouira and El-Jadida
Experience
An extravaganza of North African arts,
music and culture at the annual Gnaoua
Festival in Essaouira
TANGIER Best for

Ocean views, literary hotspots
PAGE 140
The meeting place between North Africa and Europe, and cultural crossroads
Tangier is unlike anywhere else in Morocco. It is Home to
boisterous, brash and even slightly seedy, but The American Legation Museum
nonetheless absolutely fascinating. It has a rich and the legendary Café Hafa
tradition of providing refuge to maverick Western
Experience
writers, artists and musicians, from the likes of Henri Sipping mint tea and watching
Matisse to Mick Jagger, and even today the alleys of the the world go by from the Petit
old medina seem to hold their secrets tight. Recent Socco, where the Beat writers
investment has furnished the city with a new port, hung out
marina and swish hotels in a bid to bolster tourism,
but the city’s raffish charm remains very much intact.
18
MEDITERRANEAN Best for
Idyllic beaches, atmospheric
COAST & THE RIF
PAGE 154
medinas and lush mountains
East of Tangier and beyond the Spanish enclave of Home to

Ceuta, the coast is punctuated by sweeping beaches The picturesque medinas of
of golden sand and, from Wadi Laou to Al-Hoceima and Tetouan and Chefchaouen
Saïdia, by secluded bays beneath rocky cliffs. Inland, Experience
the Rif presents a great variety of landscapes, including Scenic hiking routes through
high, steep valleys where almond trees blossom and the Zegzel Gorge and the
oleanders flower, mountain roads that command wild mountains of the Rif
and magnificent vistas, forests of cedar, fir and oak,
and isolated villages with pitched tin roofs.
FÈS
PAGE 172
Fès is home to the most stunning, not

to mention expansive, of all Morocco’s
historic medinas. In fact, it is the world’s
largest living medieval city. Enclosed
within defensive walls, old Fès, or Fès
el-Bali, is an impossible compress of
buildings intersected by a vein-like
network of the tightest of alleys. In
this labyrinth it feels like the city is
sheltered from time, as visitors lose
themselves in fascinated exploration.
To the south, the open spaces and vast
squares of Fès el-Jedid, the city’s new
town, include the royal palace and
Jewish Quarter.
Best for
Imperial architecture and a medieval medina
Home to
The Bou Inania Medersa, Musée Dar el-Blatha
and Fès el-Jedid
Experience
Trying to navigate the winding alleys and
narrow passageways of Fès el-Bali
19
DISCOVER Morocco
MEKNÈS & VOLUBILIS Best for

Holy sites and Roman ruins
PAGE 192
The smallest of Morocco’s four imperial cities, Meknès is Home to

less impressive than Fès but still boasts an attractive The Mausoleum of Moulay Ismaïl,
medina, as well as the enormous Bab Mansour gate Moulay Idriss and Volubilis
that leads into the heart of the old city and, in the
Experience
Mausoleum of Moulay Ismaïl, one of the few holy
Journey back in time to ancient
shrines that is open to non-Muslims. Meknès is also the Rome as you explore the
jumping off point for the hilltop pilgrimage town of magnificent ruins at Volubilis
Moulay Idriss and for Morocco’s most impressive
Roman ruins, at Volubilis.
MIDDLE ATLAS
PAGE 212
A wild region of rare beauty, the Middle

Atlas is surprisingly little visited. The
great cedar forests that cover the
mountainsides between deep valleys
stretch as far as the eye can see.
Bordered by the fertile plain of the Saïs
and the cities of Fès and Meknès, the
mountainous heights of the Middle
Atlas are the territory of Berber tribes,
whose population is thinly scattered
over the area. While there are few
must-see sites, it is a wonderful region
for some leisurely driving tours and
scenic trekking routes.
Best for
National parks and long, meandering
scenic drives
Home to
Cascades d’Ouzoud and Jbel Tazzeka
National Park
Experience
Monkeying around with Barbary macaques
20
MARRAKECH Best for
Bargain hunting, boutique
PAGE 230
Morocco’s most colourful and magical city, pink-walled shopping and opulent riad living
Marrakech is the archetypal melting pot. It mixes North Home to
African tribal culture with high fashion, medieval souks The bustling square of Jemaa
with stylish boutique riads, and age-old traditions of el-Fna, souks of all shapes and
saints and spiritualism with a pulsating nightlife. sizes, and tranquil escapes such
Enjoy languid, sun-drenched days beside the pool as the Majorelle Gardens
and pampering sessions at a traditional hammam or Experience
destination spa. Adventure into the bustling souks Al fresco dining at Jemaa el-Fna
and exprience the magic of Jemaa el-Fna by night. night market
From here, waterfall treks, desert adventures and
breathtaking mountain passes are just a day trip away.
21
DISCOVER Morocco
HIGH ATLAS Best for

Stunning mountain views
PAGE 260
Extending from the plains of the Atlantic seaboard to and high-altitude trekking
the Algerian border, the High Atlas forms an almost Home to
impregnable barrier some 800 km (500 miles) long and Morocco’s highest peak,
100 km (60 miles) wide. The largest massif in the Atlas Jbel Toubkal, and the Aït
chain, this is the highest mountain range in North Bouguemez Valley
Africa. It is also surprisingly accessible, with two roads Experience
out of Marrakech snaking over breathtaking mountain Descending from dizzying
passes and winding their way between the peaks in a heights at Oukaïmeden,
series of sharp switchbacks. Veer away from the main Africa’s highest skii resort
drag and you will find quiet villages and towering
kasbahs, still inhabited by Berber tribes.
22
OUARZAZATE
PAGE 276
AND THE
SOUTHERN
OASES
Arguably the most rewarding region of
Morocco to explore, this is where the
southern edge of the High Atlas
mountains meets the desert. A
landscape cut by steep canyons and
studded with arid hills, it is criss-
crossed by wadis where shade-giving
date palms grow in profusion. Eventually
everything gives way to the sand. A
succession of isolated fortified kasbahs
tells the story of ancient trading routes.
Here, the light is intensely bright and the
colours sumptuously rich.
Best for
Desert trekking, lush oases and ancient kasbahs
Home to
The majestic hill-top Ksar of Aït Benhaddou
Experience
Sleeping out under the stars in the dunes of
Erg Chebbi desert
SOUTHERN MOROCCO Best for

Desert landscapes and the wild,
PAGE 298
AND WESTERN SAHARA windswept beaches of the far

south
The vast southwestern region of Morocco is rarely
explored by visitors, with the exception of the popular Home to
Agadir, Souss-Massa National
coastal resort city, Agadir. Those who venture further
Park and Sidi Ifni
will find a variety of spectacular landscapes. The fertile
Souss plain, dominated by stony desert and dotted Experience
with shady palm oases, is bordered by the rugged Lazy days at Agadir city beach, or
Anti-Atlas. At the coast, sheer cliffs give way to large surfing Atlantic rollers on vast
stretches of wild coastline
areas of dunes linking Morocco to the Sahara and the
Republic of Mauritania.
23
DISCOVER Morocco Itineraries
1 Mausoleum of Moulay
Ismaïl, Meknès.
2 Hassan II Mosque by night.
3 Herbs and ingredients for sale
on Rahba Kedima, Marrakech.
4 Tranquil Majorelle
2 Garden, Marrakech.
24
From grand imperial cities to mountain escapes, Morocco has
more than enough to keep visitors occupied. Whether you’re
planning a short city break or several weeks spent in serious
exploration, you will be rewarded handsomely for your efforts.
2 WEEKS
A Grand Tour of Morocco
Day 1 This lively area is full of hip eateries,
For your first unforgettable hit of such as the chic Kechmara (3 Rue de la
Morocco, head straight to Marrakech’s Liberté). After sundown, take in the
main square, Jemaa el-Fna (p236). From view from the rooftop Skybar at Hotel
here endless souks weave away from the La Renaissance.
main thoroughfare. Once you’ve had your
fill of bargaining, escape to the Jardin
Secret (p246) for lunch with a view on Day 4
the terrace café, before heading back Depart Marrakech in the morning. You
to the action. At night, the square is could hire a car, but it is also easy to get
transformed into a vibrant food market around Morocco by train or bus. Arrive in
with an infectious party atmosphere. Casablanca by early afternoon to join a
tour of the super-sized Hassan II Mosque
(p110). Take a walk around downtown to
Day 2 admire Casablanca’s rich legacy of Art-
Revisit Jemaa el-Fna in the morning, Deco architecture, and dine on fine
when food stalls have been replaced by Moroccan cuisine at La Squala (p116).
sellers of orange juice squeezed to order. Afterwards, drop by Rick’s Café, the club
Pass by the Koutoubia Mosque (p234), inspired by the 1942 classic, Casablanca.
and weave your way to the Ben Youssef
Medersa (p240), the largest Islamic
college in Morocco. Refuel at one of the Day 5
many cafés in the fashionable Mouassine Push on up the coast to the modern
quarter (p248) and dine in the medina. capital of Rabat. Aim to arrive mid
morning and grab a bite to eat in the
medina while exploring the whitewashed
Day 3 alleyways of the Ouidaïa Kasbah (p88).
Visit the breathtaking ensemble of Entered through the imposing Almohad
buildings and gardens at the ruined gate, Bab Ouidaïa, this historic citadel is
Palais el-Badi (p252). Eerier still, are the the oldest part of the city. From the old
nearby Saadian Tombs (p256). Stop for to the new, head to the Mohammed VI
lunch at one of the friendly cafés around Museum of Modern and Contemporary
the Rahba Kedima (p238) before heading Art to take in the works of Morocco’s
to the charming Majorelle Garden (p242). modern artists (p80). Later, enjoy some
Afterwards, make the short walk into excellent Moroccan cuisine at the reliable
central Guéliz (p257) and explore the and welcoming La Koutoubia (p83).
quirky shops, cafés and galleries on the
side streets off Avenue Mohammed V.
25
2 3
Day 6 surroundings. Meander through the

After breakfast, head inland to Meknès. ravine-like alleys of the medina and take
Swing by the Mausoleum of Moulay IsmaÏl in the sights, sounds and smells of this
(p196), the most important place of ancient city. Start with Fès el-Jedid (p180)
worship in the city, and admire the view before tackling the map-defeating maze
of Meknès from the top of the spectacular of Fès el-Bali. Stop for mint tea and graze
Bou Inania Medersa (p205), a fine on street food along the way. For an
example of Merinid architecture. After unforgettable evening, enjoy cocktails
lunch, while away the hours at the Musée and dinner at l’Amadier Palais Faraj
Dar Jamai. For spectacular panoramic overloooking the medina.
views, dine at Le Collier de la Colombe.
Day 9
Day 7 After breakfast, explore the intricate
A short trip from Meknès is Volubilis El-Attarine and El-Cherratine medersas
(p198), Morocco’s most impressive (p189), then on to the famous Café Clock
Roman-era site. Stop by Moulay Idriss (7 Derb el-Magana) for a pick-me-up – it
(p203) for a late lunch and spend the often hosts live music, Moroccan culture
afternoon exploring this holy hilltop classes, calligraphy workshops, and even
town. Next stop Fès. On arrival, settle into cooking courses. Once sufficiently
your hotel and treat yourself to dinner at refuelled, explore the Musée Dar el Blatha
one of the finest riads in the ancient (p176) before heading to la Maison Bleue
medina – Dar Tajine. (2 Place Batha) for dinner.
Day 8 Day 10
Fès is not a city to be rushed. After a Time to reverse your route and head back
heady pace of almost a city a day, take towards Marrakech. This is about an
the foot off the gas and revel in your eight-hour journey through the rolling
26
4
1 Leather Tanneries in Fès.

2 Bou Inania Medersa, Meknès.
3 Roman Ruins at Volubilis.
4 Jemaa el-Fna, Marrakech.
5 Moroccan sweet mint tea.
5 6 Rafting at Cascades d’Ouzoud.
hills of the Middle Atlas. Break the the sea wall and admiring the view from
journey in the quaint mountain town the ramparts. Watch the sunset from the
of Beni Mellal (p226) at the foot of Jbel rooftop bar at the Taros café, then dine at
Tassemi. On arrival back in Marrakech, one of the many restaurants on Rue Skala.
enjoy a leisurely evening stroll through
the city centre.
Day 13
After a hearty breakfast, head to the surf
Day 11 beach at Sidi Kaouki (p132), one of
Just a short day trip from Marrakech are Morocco’s top surfing locations. Take
the Cascades d’Ouzoud (p216). Many tour lessons from a qualified instructor (often
operators offer full day and half-day trips a generous picnic lunch is provided), or if
to suit your needs, usually with a lunch you’re already a seasoned surfer, hit the
stop at a local riad or restaurant included. waves for the rest of the day. You’ll soon
After a day’s exploration, indulge in work up an appetite, so dine at Le Chalet
a trademark Moroccan hammam de la Plage, a beachside seafood
experience on your return to the city. restaurant in town with fine views.
Day 12 Day 14
Rise early and travel to the seaside town Return to Marrakech in time for a lunch.
of Essaouira (p126). Wander through the Before departing the city, take a petit
winding streets and bastions of the taxi to the Agdal Gardens (p258), an
medina, and be sure to stop by shop- expansive 12th-century botanical garden
lined Rue Attarine to search for some south of the medina. The Saadian pavilion
bargains. When hunger strikes, treat commands breathtaking views across the
yourself to a straight-from-the-sea lunch city to the north, and the snow-capped
of freshly caught sardines grilled at the peaks of the High Atlas to the south – a
port. Spend the afternoon walking along perfect scene on which to end your trip.
27
1 Sunset over Aït Benhaddou.

2 Winding streets within the
fortified walls of Aït Benhaddou.
3 The set of Cleopatra (1999) at
the Atlas Studios, Ouarzazate.
4 Colorful tiles on a fountain in
Taourirt Kasbah, Ouarzazate. 4
28
Few things say “North Africa” quite like the Sahara. This
itinerary combines the colour and intensity of Morocco’s
vibrant cities with mountain passes and sand. Lots of sand.
The route is possible by public transport or car.
10 DAYS
in the Valleys and Kasbahs
of Southern Morocco
Day 1 Day 3
After spending a few days taking in the After breakfast at your hotel, head east
sights of Marrakech (p231), set off early on the N10 to the town of Taroudannt
for Agadir (p302). The mild climate and (p306) where, behind the mighty red-
coastal air here are a pleasant treat after ochre ramparts are scenes of traditional
the sweltering heat of Marrakech. After Berber life. In the souks, situated between
lunch at one of the many restaurants the two main squares, you can pick up all
overlooking the marina, head for the manner of exquisitely crafted souvenirs.
Polizzi Medina, which teems with About 37 km (23 miles) southeast of the
restaurants and craft workshops. town is the spectacular Tioute Kasbah
Admire the Berber exhibits in the Musée which dominates the palm groves – a
Municipal du Patrimoine Amazigh, and perfect location for picnic with a view.
stroll through the Vallée des Oiseaux on Head back to Taroudannt and dine in
your way to the beach for the rest of the the the spectacular gardens of the
afternoon. For dinner, book a table at El Dar el-Hossoun.
Toro (no. 7 Front de Mer), which serves
Spanish-Moroccan fushion dishes right
on the beach promenade. Day 4
After breakfast push on to Ouarzazate
(p282), where the mountains meet the
Day 2 desert. The town also happens to be the
To make the most of the day, rise early unlikely hub of Morocco’s film industry.
for the hour drive down the coast to Visit the CLA and Atlas film studios, where
the Souss Massa National Park (p308). hundreds of Hollywood movies have been
In contrast to the busy beachfront bars shot, and enjoy exploring this delightful
and restaurants of Agadir, this tranquil sleepy town, home to the Taourirt
nature reserve offers a taste of unspoiled Kasbah. In the late afternoon, drive 30 km
Morocco, playing host to hundreds of (19 miles) north on the N9 to the fortified
migratory birds from southern Spain and village of Aït Benhaddou (p280). The added
France. Pack a picnic and spend the day bonus of an overnight stay here means
exploring some of the scenic trails. With you get to see the amazing mud-walled
the exception of the tiny fishing villages fortress at sunset when it glows bright
that line the coast, you are likely to have red and – if you are an early riser – at
a free run of the place. Most of the nearby sunrise, when it is at its most glorious.
hotels offer hammam and spa facilities, a
perfect antidote to a hard day of hiking.
29
1 3
Day 5 worth a brief stop for lunch. Aim to halt

Depart Aït Benhaddou and head east into for the night at Merzouga (p296), a small
the Dadès Valley, also known as the Valley village that is the access point for the
of the Kasbahs, because so many of the majestic Erg Chebbi dune fields. Take
mud-walled fortresses line the way. This your pick of the hotels and guesthouses
is a wonderful road to navigate, full of that line the western fringe of the dunes.
switchbacks and bizarre rock formations.
There are plenty of stunning spots to
pause at en route, and it is worth exploring Day 7
the side roads for more fabulous scenery. Desert trips, from excursions of a few
Stay the night in Boulmalne du Dadès at hours to expeditions lasting several days,
the idyllic Xaluca Dadès Hotel (p289), can be arranged in Merzouga. These can
where a warm welcome and mountains involve anything from trekking on foot to
of delicious continental and Moroccan travelling on camelback, dune buggy or
cuisine make for a memorable – and four-wheel drive, among other adventurous
filling – dining experience. modes of transport. To experience the
undulating dunescapes and infinite
stillness of the Erg Chebbi at its best,
Day 6 opt for an overnight stay. Accommodation
Another early start, this time following options range from basic camps, to plush,
the road north out of town, to Todra fully furnished luxury tents with ensuite
Gorge (p290). Park up and take the facilities. Whichever you choose, you
opportunity to wander through some will no doubt be humbled by the vast,
spectacular, canyon-like scenery. Return shifting expanse of apricot-coloured
the way you came and carry on east and sand, illuminated in the glow of the
then south at Er-Rachida, through Erfoud setting sun. By night, millions of twinkling
to Rissani (p297). This is a small village stars and planets are visible as they
with a few kasbahs and a lively souk, dance across the dark desert sky.
30
4
1 Steep canyons in Todra Gorge.

2 The verdant Dadès Valley.
3 City Walls of Taroudannt.
4 Colourful spices for sale in a souk.
5 Walking on the Erg Chebbi dunes.
5 6 Jemaa el-Fna, Marrakech.
Day 8 hills to reach Bin el-Ouidine, a village that

On departing the desert, leave Merzouga sits on the banks of the largest lake in
and retrace your route to Er-Rachida. Morocco. You will find comfortable rooms
Continue north through the striking and a warm welcome at the lakefront
scenery of the Ziz Gorge (p294) and on up hotel and restaurant, Tigmi Dar Samy.
to Azrou (p222) for a lunch stop and short Dine on the terrace and enjoy an evening
stroll around the town and its beautifully dip in the pool.
painted streets and doorways. This is
about a five-hour drive in total, over
the course of which, the landscape Day 10
transitions from parched desert to rocky After breakfast, drive to the nearby
mountain terrain, until finally you emerge Cascades d’Ouzoud (p216), a thundering
in the lush green valleys of the Middle waterfall in the heart of the Middle Atlas.
Atlas. At Azrou, strike northeast on the N8 Spend a few hours exploring the scenery
highway for the nearby town of Ifrane around these famous waterfalls. A quick
(p222). Surrounded by dense forest, it is dip in the plunge pool is a great way to
far cry from the scenery you woke up to cool off in the afternoon heat; be warned,
this same morning. the water is surprisingly cold. Riverside
cafés and fruit stands serve basic snacks,
but keep an eye out for the roaming local
Day 9 apes – they will snatch at anything edible.
From your base in Ifrane, spend a few From here it is a drive of a couple of
hours touring the three attractive lakes hours back to Marrakech. Have one last
of Dayet Aouam, Dayet Ifrah and Dayet dash around the souks to dispose of
Hachlaf (p228). Depart Ifrane in the early those remaining dirhams, and indulge
afternoon and head southwest on the N8, in a farewell meal of couscous and tagine
via Beni Mellal (p226) and then turn off overlooking the nightly dramatics at
the highway to climb through wooded Jemaa el-Fna.
31
7 DAYS
In Tangier and the
Mediterranean Coast 3
Day 1 Spanish enclave of Ceuta (p166) the

Start your first day in Tangier (p140) by coastal road passes through a string of
wandering the winding streets of the glitzy new resorts before reaching M’diq.
city’s ancient medina. Pause for coffee on Once a fishing village, this is now fast
the legendary Petit Socco (p146) before becoming the place to go on Morocco’s
visiting the American Legation (p147) for Mediterranean coast and has a host of
a crash course in the city’s louche history. beachfront cafés that are perfect for a
When you’ve had your fill of antiquity, spot of lunch. Afterwards, swing inland
head up the hill to the peaceful kasbah and climb up to Tetouan, where you can
(p144), where you’ll find a handful of stop for the night.
home-grown boutiques – perfect for
souvenir shopping. Experience the modern
side of Tangier with a walk along Rue de Day 3
la Liberté (p150) as the sun sets. Try to Take most of the day to explore the
reserve a table at Populaire Saveur du whitewashed charms of Tetouan (p158),
Poisson (p151), known locally as Popeye’s, which feels more Andalucían than Arabic.
and relish a terrific six-course set menu. Meander in the mellah, the old Jewish
quarter, and take a look at the former
grand railway station, which is now a
Day 2 museum of art. Break for a seafood lunch
Head out of Tangier and along the coast. at the Esquina de Pescado (43 Avenue
You can do this by public transport but Chakib Arsalan) before continuing your
this part of Morocco is best enjoyed with exploration. In late afternoon say your
your own transport, so renting a car is a goodbyes and head south on route
good idea. After looping around the N2 for Chefchaouen.
32
5
1 Blue painted walls of the

old Medina in Chefchaouen.
2 Musicians playing at Tangier’s
stunning Kasbah.
3 Modern Art Center of Tetouan.
4 Tangier’s winding medina.
5 Refreshing mint tea,
4 a Moroccan staple.
Day 4 Day 6
Beautiful hill town Chefchaouen (p160) Enjoy a leisurely morning after a day
is perfect Instagram material, with its on the road. Al-Hoceima is a quiet sea-
tangle of blue-painted streets tumbling side town with a strong Berber character,
between two peaks. It is a glorious place home to a small but lively fishing harbour
to spend the day – wander the medina and lovely sandy beaches. Better still,
and the Quartier al-Andalus, sit on central it’s a good base for exploring neigh-
Place Uta el-Hammam, sip mint tea and bouring Al-Hoceima National Park. Full
watch the world go by. There are plenty of rocky canyons covered by forests, the
of decent places to eat and lots of national park is a haven for bird- and
characterful accommodation. wildlife and makes for great exploration
in the afternoon.
Day 5
After an early, hearty breakfast leave Day 7
Chefchaouen and drive east on route Set off for Tangier by following Route
N2. Head for Al-Hoceima (p167), some N16. This hugs the southern fringes of
210 km (126 miles) away, which should Al-Hoceima National Park before closely
take you just under five hours. This is following the coast all the way back to
one of Morocco’s most spectacular roads, Tetouan and providing yet more fabulous
passing through the heart of the Rif scenery. You can pick up the main highway
Mountains, with stunning views of the back to Tangier before enjoying a reviving
deep slopes below and distant high mint tea at Café Hafa (p145).
peaks. You’ll have plenty of opportunities
to stop and take photos.
33
Roaming the Rif
The Rif is the most northerly
of Morocco’s mountain
chains. Its peaks aren’t as
high as the Atlas but the
landscape is a patchwork of
verdant greens,with views
of the azure Mediterranean.
Hillside towns, such as the
DISCOVER Morocco Your Way
pastel-blue Chefchaouen
(p160), make a good base
from which to explore
neighbouring valleys.
Lush vegetation on the

rolling hills of The Rif
MOROCCO FOR
CHALLENGING
LANDSCAPES
With mountain ranges towering to heights of over 4,000 m (13,130 ft),
extensive Atlantic and Mediterranean coastlines and vast areas of desert,
the landscape of Morocco is nothing if not varied. It is possible to pass
between snow-capped peaks and steep-sided sand dunes in the same day.
Palm Oases
The roads south of the
High Atlas link numerous
and often extensive palm
oases. These are fed either
by rivers flowing down
from the mountains or by
the underground water
table. Set in hostile sur-
roundings, the oases
are a fragile ecological
environment that only
survives thanks to careful
human maintenance. They
mostly support date palms,
whose fruit is harvested
each autumn. Some of the
largest palm oases can be
found near the city of
Tinerhir (p291) and
around Tafilalt (p296).
A palm tree forest

growing around a
village in Morocco
34
Snow-capped peaks
and wild terrain in
the Atlas Moutains
Experience the Mountain Air

The Atlas Mountains range in a diagonal right across Morocco. INSIDER TIP
To the north are the low-rise Middle Atlas, blanketed with Desert Dust
Aleppo pine and Atlas cedar. Towns like Ifrane (p222) offer easy Be mindful of your
trekking between remote Berber mountain villages. Further impact on the desert
south are the soaring peaks of the High Atlas. Several dizzying environment and
roads pass through the peaks, wildlife when choosing
notably the Tizi-n-Tichka your tour operator.
(p272). Serious hikers Opting for a traditional
should head to Imlil camel-ride over a 4WD
(p271) for the lessens disruption to
highest peak, the fragile ecosystem.
Mount Toubkal.
Enter the Sahara

Almost half of the territory
of Morocco is desert. Only
the truly intrepid venture
into the remote southern
Sahara provinces. South of
the High Atlas, however,
well-worn trails wind down
to spectacular dune fields at
Mhamid (p288) and Merzouga
(p296). Here, vast shifting
seas of sands roll away to the
Algerian border and beyond.
There is even the opportunity
to join a desert camp and Camping in the desert
sleep under the clear skies (inset), and sunset over
and the stars. the Erg Chebbi dunes
35
Sandboarding Sandboarding down
For those who make it all the steep slopes of
the way down to where the Sahara Desert
the grand Sahara begins
at Merzouga (p296) in the
Southern Oases, several
companies offer the oppor
tunity to go sandboarding.
If you have never done it
before, it involves hiking

through the warm sand to
reach the top of the steep
dunes, then mounting a board
and whizzing down at high
speed. These excursions can
often be paired with camel
trekking, star gazing and
camping in the desert dunes.
MOROCCO FOR
OUTDOOR
ADVENTURES
Morocco’s dramatic natural environments and great topographical diversity
make it a great destination for all manner of adventure sports and activities
from sandboarding to skiing. Day trips to these outdoor playgrounds can be
easily arranged from the major tourist hubs of Marrakech and Fès.
Skiing and Snowboarding

Few would associate Morocco with
winter sports, but the country has several
highaltitude resorts, including Ifrane
(p222), near Fès, and Oukaïmeden (p268),
near Marrakech. Close enough for a day
trip to the city, Oukaïmeden also has
accommodation for anyone who wants
to make an early start on the pistes.
Descending the rocky

slopes of the High Atlas
Hiking and Trekking
Morocco offers all grades of
trekking, from gentle trails
through forests and valleys
in the undulating terrain of
the Rif and Middle Atlas,
through to high-altitude
expeditions in the High Atlas
that require porters and
camel, mule or vehicle
support. Some of the most
popular routes are around
Jbel Toubkal (p274), Morocco’s
highest mountain, and the
Aït Bouguemez Valley.
CAMEL WELFARE
As tourism continues
to increase in Morocco,
camels are more at risk
of suffering from
neglect and abuse.
If you see an animal
being treated badly by
their handler, refuse
the ride. You can also
file a report to the
Hikers trekking
Ministry of Tourism.
through the arid
High Atlas terrain
Up, Up and Away!

Enjoy a bird’s-eye view of the sprawling city of
Marrakech and surrounding desert and the
foothills of the Atlas Mountains from the
lofty heights of your very own hot air
balloon. Several companies based in
Marrakech offer dawn departures
that allow you to take in the sunrise
as you float above the city. A traditional
Moroccan breakfast is usually included
in the deal.
Balloons above
Marrakech (inset)
and the Sahara
37
Marine Mammals
Bordering both the Atlantic
Ocean and the Mediterranean
Sea, Morocco’s coastline is
home to an abundance of
marine wildlife. Dolphins
and porpoises can be spotted
all along the coast, while the
Strait of Gibraltar is a great
place to see sperm whales

and orcas. Hop on a boat tour
from Tangier between April
and July for the best chance
of seeing them in the wild.
Wild orcas swimming in the

Strait of Gibraltar, home to
a wide variety of marine life
MOROCCO FOR
WILDLIFE
ENCOUNTERS
From vast expanses of forests and arid desert to towering mountain
plateaus and miles of coastline, Morocco’s tremendous diversity of habitats
supports a wide range of fascinating species of mammals and birdlife. Skip
the zoos and venture into the wild to see these magnificent creatures.
Monkeying Around
The macaque, or Barbary ape,
is North Africa’s only monkey.
Three-quarters of the
population lives in the cedar
forests of the Middle Atlas.
Macaques are also found in
the Rif and the High Atlas
(and on the Rock of Gibraltar).
The animals live in colonies
of 10 to 30 individuals, con-
sisting of adults and young
monkeys of both sexes;
troops are matriarchal,
with the male monkeys
helping rear the young. The
easiest way to see them is on
a daytrip from Marrakech to
the Cascades d’Ouzoud (p216).
A lone macaque relaxes in

the treetops, Morocco’s
only species of monkey
38
Dinky Desert Foxes
The fennec fox, the smallest of
its species in the world, abides
in some of Morocco’s harshest
desert environments. Measuring
around 20 cm (8 inches) long
when fully grown, and with
super-size ears, the nocturnal
fennec fox is as elusive as it is
adorable. Only a lucky few will
stumble across them in the wilds
of the Western Sahara. However,
they can be more easily glimpsed
on an over-night desert stay,
when they venture out of their
dens dug in the sand and come
surprisingly close to the camps.
Beware of roadside petting zoos
that allow tourists to pet captive
fennecs; species numbers have
declined dramatically because
of this behaviour.
A tiny fennec fox,

famous for its minature
size and large ears
Birds of a Feather
With over 460 recorded species,
Morocco is a bird-watcher’s
paradise. Souss Massa National
Park (p308), Oualidia (p136),
and Moulay Bousselham (p101),
host migrant species such as
flamingoes, egrets, and the
near extinct bald ibis in October
and March–April.
Inquisitive male Seebohm’s

Wheatear perches on a rock
NATIONAL PARKS
AND NATURE RESERVES
There are 11 national parks in Morocco,
all of which support indigenous wildlife.
Souss Massa (p308) holds captive-
breeding programmes for four threat-
ened North African species including
the scimitar oryx and the dorcas gazelle,
and is in the process of reintroducing the
North African ostrich. Ifrane National
Park (p228) is home to a population of
Barbary apes, while Merja Zerga is a
Permanent Biological Reserve that
welcomes masses of migrating birds.
39
INGENIOUS DESIGN
Before the days
of air-conditioning,
Moroccan buildings
were constructed to
withstand intense
heat. Townhouses,
known as riads, still

consist of an open
central courtyard to
aid ventilation, while
thick, windowless
exterior walls keep the
heat out. Mosques and
public buildings often
contain a system of
fountains and open
channels that, in com-
bination with natural
ventilation, creates a
cooling effect. The splendid courtyard
and ablution pool in Ben
Youssef Medersa
MOROCCO FOR
AMAZING
ARCHITECTURE
Traditional Moroccan architecture is like a jewellery box, where an often
plain exterior hides fabulous riches within. Mosques and medersas typically
present blank faces to the street but once inside a riot of ornamentation
awaits. In Morocco, it pays to be nosey and stick your head through the door.
Fabulous Fondouks
The fondouk is the ancestor
of the hotel, a medieval
merchants’ hostel with a
courtyard surrounded by
stables on the ground floor
and rooms above. Travellers
to Chefchaouen (p160)
can still stay in an original
fondouk. Many have now
been coverted into shops,
yet the Fondouk el-Nejjarine
(p185) in Fès has become
a museum of wooden arts.
The splendid galleried interior

of the Fondouk el-Nejjarine,
now a museum
Magnificent Mosques
and Medersas
Non-Muslims are not allowed
inside mosques in Morocco
and have to be content with
admiring their distinctive,
square-shaped minarets
from the sidelines. The
exception is the modern
Hassan II Mosque (p110)
in Casablanca, which non-
Muslims can visit as part of
a guided tour. Non-Muslims
can also visit any of the many
medersas (Koranic schools)
found in most cities. These
are often filled with exquisite
architectural ornamentation.
Don’t miss the Bou Inania
Medersa (p205) in Fès, which
also has a minaret, and the
Ben Youssef Medersa (p240)
in Marrakech – the largest
medersa in Morocco.
Rock the Kasbah

The kasbah (also sometimes
called a ksar; plural ksour) is
a fortified dwelling typically
found in the tribal south.
They are made of mud-brick,
and the upper parts of the
walls are often decorated
with geometric patterns and
incised motifs. They can be
quite small, meant for a single
family, or, as in the case of the
Aït Benhaddou (p280), they
can sprawl up hillsides and
accommodate whole villages.
One of the tower structures

that form part of the
magnificent Aït Benhaddou
Art Deco à la Mode

French rule in the early 20th century left
Morocco’s cities with a legacy of elegant
modernist architecture. Casablanca is
packed full of stunning Art-Deco buildings
such as the beautiful tiled faÇade of HÔtel
Guynemer on Rue Mohamed Belloul or the
iconic Cinema Rialto on the corner of Rue
Mohammed el Qorri (p114).
Art Deco façade of the

imposing Casablanca Cathedral
41
The Souks of Marrakech
Every medina has areas dedicated
to buying and selling known as souks
(bazaars). Some of the most extensive
souks are in Marrakech where, as is
typical, they are organised by trade.
The colour, smells and sounds are
mesmerizing, and a day spent in the
souks is one of the most rewarding
things you can do in Morocco,

whether you are buying or not.
Exploring one the

many bustling souks
in Marrakech
MOROCCO FOR
MEDIEVAL
MEDINAS
Medina in Arabic simply means city, although in Morocco today it is usually
taken to mean the “old city”. These atmospheric tangles of narrow winding
streets and alleys, enclosed within high defensive walls, are a perfect place
to take in the sights, sounds and smells of Morocco.
Get Lost in Fès el-Bali

The best-preserved and most sprawling Medina
in Morocco belongs to Fès el-Bali, or old Fès. It may
seem choatic on arrival, but there is still a sense of
order. The grand mosque is at the centre, different
religious and ethnic groups have their own areas,
and activities are located according to a social and
commercial hierarchy. Despite this, any first-time
visitor will inevitably get lost, which is all part of
the experience.
Locals at work in
the historic tanneries
of Fès el-Bali
42
Chefchaouen Blues
With its blue- and white-washed PRETTY IN PINK
buildings and mediterranean-style The more perceptive
terracotta roofs, the Rif city of visitor may have
Chefchaouen (p160) looks more like a noticed that every
Greek island village than a Moroccan city. building in Marrakech
Fortunately the medina is much smaller medina is painted pink.
than the maze-like Fès el-Bali, and the Why? It’s the law, intro-
pace of life notably calmer. The cobbled duced during the era of
lanes are lined with quirky cafés, French rule. The colour
and shops are filled with is actually ochre, the
local handicrafts. Relax colour of the earth
in the blue hues or from which bricks
venture into were made in the past.
the tranquil Modern buildings still
greenery of uphold this pink paint
the hills that tradition, making the
surround this city a photographer’s
beautiful city. dream, particularly
in the morning and
evening light. Once
you’ve captured the so-
The famously
called Rose City, head
blue walls and
to the Blue Pearl of
steps of the city
Morocco, Chefchaouen.
of Chefchaouen,
peppered with plants
INSIDER TIP
Guide or
No Guide?
You may be approached
in the medina by a local
offering their services
as a guide. This usually
means they want to
take you shopping and
earn a commission on
any sale. Unless you
really are looking for
something in particular,
just say no.
The Ancient Walls

of Taroudannt
Taroudannt’s well-preserved
walls are a reminder of the
time when the mountain city
was a stop-off on the trans-
Saharan trading route. Unlike
in other Moroccan cities, it is
possible to walk along the
top of a stretch of these walls.
The view from up there is
particularly lovely at sunset.
Passing through a
gateway in the city
walls of Taroudannt
43
NAVIGATING THE MEDINA
Almost all of Morocco’s Medina’s have the same layout. The typical medina
(meaning “town” in Arabic) consists of a densely packed urban conglomeration
enclosed within defensive walls set with lookout towers. The tangle of narrow
winding streets and countless alleyways turns the layout of a medina into a
labyrinth. The centre of the medina is cut through by wide avenues running
between the main gateways and other main streets, which, as a defensive
measure, are either angled or closed off by houses or projecting walls.
THE LAYOUT OF A MEDINA

Despite their apparent chaos, medinas
are laid out according to a certain set of
Did You Know?
considerations. The mosque is always The medina of
located at its heart. Other features include Fès el-Bali is said to be
the separation of different religious and the best-preserved
ethnic groups, the distinction between medieval town in the
home and the workplace, and the location Arab world.
of activities according to a social and
commercial hierarchy. Every medina is
laid out according to these factors.
Townhouses, or riads,
THE QUARTERS are arrange around
The quarters of a medina are no more a central courtyard
than loosely defined areas. A quarter, or
hawma, is really just a communal space
consisting of several small streets and Roof terrace
alleyways, and it is the focus of the
inhabitants’ material and spiritual life.
Each quarter has a communal oven, a
hammam (steam bath), a Koranic school,
and a grocer’s shop selling basic goods,
which is always located in one of the
smaller streets.
Street partly
blocked by
a house
Jemaa el-Fna, at the heart of

Marrakech Medina, and the
souks branching off it (inset)
44
INSIDER TIP
Follow
Your Nose
In any souk, the location
of a particular craft,
from the centre to the
periphery, depends on
its rarity and pollution
level. The souk for
valuable items is
located next to the
mosque, while butchers
and tanneries are
Man with donkey banished to the
in the covered souks outskirts due to their
of Marrakech pungent odours – a
handy navigational tool
for those who find
themselves a little lost.
The grand mosque is the
central point of the city.
Sturdy defensive
walls protect
the medina.
Hundreds of narrow
streets wind through the
medina. Some are no more
than 50 cm (20 in) wide.
The medina is usually

accessed through a
monumental main gate.
Illustration depicting A man working animal skins

the typical layout of into leather in the 11th-century
a Moroccan medina Chouara Tannery, Fès
45
Seafood Galore
Morocco’s coastal position
means sardines, anchovies,
prawns and mackerel are just
some of the fresh offerings
you will find on menus. Fish
such as bream and bass are
typically marinated in a spicy
mixture called chermoula and
are usually cooked and

served whole. In Essaouira,
the freshest fish is served
straight off the boats in
the port (p126).
A delicious plate of oysters

and lime, straight from the sea
MOROCCO FOR
FOODIES
Eating in Morocco is an absolute joy, so make sure you pack an
appetite. Restaurant meals can be elaborate affairs of multiple
courses, but there is even more fun to be had grazing on street food
from small medina stalls, harbourfront grills and market squares.
TOP
MUST TRY
4 DISHES
Merguez
Spicy mutton or beef
sausage, often used in a
tagine or couscous dish.
Pastilla
Pastry pie filled with
chicken or pigeon,
almonds and eggs, and
dusted with icing sugar.
Tajines and Couscous
Harira The twin staples of Moroccan
A spicy lamb broth cuisine are tajines and couscous.
made with tomatoes, A tajine is a slow-cooked stew,
red lentils, chickpeas typically involving a meat and
and other pulses. fruit combination, such as lamb
with prunes or apricots, or chicken
Mechoui with lemon or olives. Couscous,
A whole sheep or lamb the Moroccan national dish, is a
slowly spit-roasted on semolina-based grain, which is
a barbecue until the typically served with stew.
meat becomes
incredibly tender.
A sumptuous array of tagines and
couscous traditional dishes
46
Dining on the Square
The variety of foods sold
from small stalls or handcarts
around Morocco is endless.
The best place to sample
the greatest range is at
Marrakech’s Night Market,
which takes over half of
the city’s main square each
evening. Over 40 stalls fire up
their gas burners to prepare
grilled meats, fried fish,
griddled veg and many more
wild and wonderful dishes
unique to Morocco. It’s easy to
be overwhelmed with choice,
so to sample local favourites,
look for the stalls that attract
the greatest numbers.
Street food at the Night

Market in Marrakech
Fine Dining
Morocco’s imperial cities are now home to a
number of restaurants serving up innovative,
contemporary dishes with locally sourced
ingredients, whilst honouring the country’s
vibrant culinary traditions. Headed up by
Yannick Alléno and his team of talented chefs,
La Grande Table Marocaine
at the Royal Mansour in
Traditional sweet Marrakech is often hailed
Moroccan pastries as the best in the country.
Mint Tea
To help with digestion,
herb-infused teas are
sipped at the end of the
meal. Those herbs might
be lemon-scented verbena
or wormwood, but most
usually it’s mint. Authentic
Maghrebi mint tea is made
with spearmint leaves and
sugar. The tea is served hot
and very sweet, and you
glass is never allowed to
be empty. Tea is consumed
socially throughout the
day in Morocco.
Two glasses of
refreshingly sweet
Moroccan mint tea
47
Moroccan Must-buys
Shoppers should consider
Moroccan leather, and bags
make great souvenirs. Soft
leather is also used for
babouches; striking slippers
with pointed toes. Local
ceramics vary from city to
city; Marrakech favours single
colours, Fès prefers blue

patterns. Moroccan argan oil
is a popular beauty product –
pick it up cheap in Essaouira
(p126) and Taroudannt (p306).
Gorgeous coin-studded
leather bags for sale
in Marrakech
MOROCCO FOR
SHOPPERS
Morocco’s souks represent commerce at its most intoxicating, with
thousands of small shops crammed together and bursting with evocative
colour and pattern. In Morocco’s cities, smart and sophisticated boutiques
selling unique designer items are equally tempting. Where will you begin?
Shopping the Souks

HONE THOSE Chunky jewellery, silk kaftans, brass
HAGGLING SKILLS lightshades – it is impossible to explore a
Haggling is expected – souk and not buy something you never
and encouraged – knew you wanted. The most extensive
across all items in and enticing souks are in Fès, Marrakech
the souk, except for and Rabat. Safi (p136) is great for pottery,
food. Sellers enjoy while Azrou (p222) is the place for rugs.
the friendly bartering,
often performing a
series of dramatics
before settling on a
price. Be polite and
playful, yet firm; offer
as little as a third of the
stated price (don’t be
put off by the laughter
that will inevitably
ensue) and expect to
eventually pay around
half. Anything higher
and you are likely
being ripped off.
Avoid entering
negotiations if you’re
unsure that you will
make a purchase. Tempting stalls flanking
the winding medina
streets of Fès
48
Modern TOP
Moroccan Styles
It’s not just about labyrinthine
5 SHOPPING
EXPERIENCES
souks packed with trinkets
and treasures. Away from 33 Rue Majorelle
the souks, the modern city ⌂ 33 Rue Yves Saint Laurent,
centres in Marrakech (p230), Marrakech
Rabat (p72), Casablanca Chic goods made by
(p106) and Tangier (p140) local artists and up-
are full of bijou boutiques and and-coming designers.
curated concept shops selling
contemporary Moroccan Elizir Gallery
fashion, accessories and ⌂ 22 Avenue d’Istiqlal,
homeware. Look for clothing, Medina, Essaouira
candles, soaps, scents and Retro store piled high
gorgeous jewellery by young with vintage furniture
local talent. If you’re in and knick-knacks.
Marrakech, head to
Las Chicas
the boutique at the
⌂ 52 Kacem Guenoun, Bab
fabulous El Fenn
Kasbah, Tangier
hotel (www.
An eclectic emporium
el-fenn.com).
stocked with every-
thing imaginable.
Perusing the Les Mystères de Fès

wares in ⌂ 53 Derb Bin Lemsarri,
a modern Medina, Fès
ceramics shop A 13th-century riad
in Marrakech stuffed with antiques
and vintage pieces.
Souq Cherifia
⌂ Rue Mouassine, Marrakech
Pieces by young, edgy
Moroccan designers.
Carpets Galore
Berber carpets are unique, coming
in all shapes, sizes and patterns,
depending on their region. Good
places to find them are Marrakech
and the souks of the Middle and High
Atlas. City carpets are typically
woven in Rabat, Salé and Casablanca
Vibrantly patterned and feature perfectly symmetrical
carpets displayed in patterns. Pick one up at the Tuesday
Marrakech’s souks carpet market in Khemisset (p210).
49
Masterpieces in Marrakech
Marrakech is the art hub of
Morocco and, more broadly, North
Africa. The scene here centres
around the new city neighbour-
hood of Guéliz (p257), which
has a dynamic and diverse
feel that befits an artistic
heart. The side streets
surrounding Place Abdel

Moumen in particular are
jam-packed with cutting-
edge independent galleries.
Any art tour should include the
refined, New York-loft-like David
Bloch Gallery (Rue des Vieux
Marrakchis), Galerie 127 (127
Avenue Mohammed V), a centre for
African photography, and Matisse Exhibition by Carlos
Gallery (Passage Ghandouri, off Mare and Vincent
Rue Yougoslavie), which exhibits Abadie Hafez at the
the big-hitters of Moroccan art. David Bloch Gallery
MOROCCO FOR
ART LOVERS
Countless artists from Europe and America have found inspiration in
Morocco, creating great masterpieces based on their travels. Today, the
country inspires local artists and their works are rightly showcased in an
increasing number of chic private galleries across the country.
Art by the Sea

The stunning light in the
coastal city of Essaouira
(p126) has long attracted
artists, whose works have
gained international plaudits.
The artists share a vibrant
“tribal”, almost Aboriginal,
style that draws on Arab-
Berber history. It’s hard to
resist their cheerful, bright
colours, swirling shapes and
evident affection for the city.
The best place to see their
work is at Essaouira’s Galerie
Damgaard (p129), which has
been at the forefront of
promoting the group’s work
since the 1980s.
This bright painting, by

Mohammed Tabal, is typical
of Essaouira’s style
TOP
UNIQUE ART
5 SPACES
Atelier 21
⌂ 21 Rue Abou Al Mahassine
Royani, Casablanca
One of Casablanca’s
leading contemporary
galleries, exhibiting
Moroccan artworks.
Green Olive Arts

⌂ 18 Avenue Mohammed ben
Abderrahman, Tetouan
Artist residency and
collaborative space
celebrating local art.
Al Maqam
⌂ Douar Lamgassem,
Tahannaout
The studio of famed
artists Mohammed
Mourabiti and
Inside the beautiful Mahi Binebine.
Villa des Arts in the modern
capital of Rabat Riad Yima
⌂ 52 Derb Aarjane, off Rahba
Contemporary Capital Lakdima, Medina, Marrakech
As well as being home to the impressive Villa des Arts (p116), Anglo-Moroccan artist
Morocco’s inaugural Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art Hassan Hajjaj displays
(p80) opened in Rabat in 2014. While hosting a blockbuster his Warhol-esque pop
programme of temporary exhibitions, it’s permanent collection art in this quirky riad.
offers a useful crash-course in Morocco’s history of fine art.
Voice Gallery
⌂ 366 Sidi Ghanem, Marrakech
Land of Inspiration Cool gallery focusing on
From Eugène Delacroix to Henri African art.
Matisse, artists have been drawn to
Morocco by its stunning light and
dramatic scenery. Perhaps you’ll be
inspired to paint your own master-
piece – observe life in the city of Tangier
(p140), or head to the utterly enchanting
Majorelle Garden (p242) established by
French artist Jacques Majorelle.
Fanatics of Tangier (1832) by

Eugène Delacroix
51
Marrakech
in the Movies
Alfred Hitchcock’s famed
thriller The Man Who Knew
Too Much (1955), starring
James Stewart and Doris
Day, features scenes in
Jemma el- Fna (p236) and at
the opulent Mamounia Hotel
(p251). City sights including

the Ben Youssef Medersa
(p240) also appear in Hideous
Kinky (1998), starring actress
Kate Winslet.
Brenda De Banzie and

James Stewart in The Man
Who Knew Too Much
MOROCCO ON
SCREEN
Fan of the silver screen? Morocco won’t disappoint. The drama and
diversity of its natural landscapes has landed the country several
starring roles in blockbuster films and series. It’s stood in for all manner
of locations, including Egypt, Mombasa, Tibet, Troy and even Mars.
Hollywood in the Desert

MARRAKECH The desert city of Ouarzazate (p282) is known as “Morocco’s
INTERNATIONAL Hollywood” and its film studios have hosted film crews for The
FILM FESTIVAL Mummy (1999), Star Wars (1977) and Gladiator (2000) to name a
Movie buffs and the few. When they’re not in use, you can explore the sets, including
rich and famous a replica Roman Colosseum and an ancient Egyptian temple.
descend upon the
imperial city (p230)
for the Marrakech
International Film
Festival in December.
Film fans can enjoy
open-air screenings
of classic Hollywood
films, gritty arthouse
productions, star-
studded world premiers
and special events
throughout the city.
It’s also great for
celeb-spotting.
John Hannah, Rachel

Weisz and Brendan Fraser
in The Mummy
52
Inside Rick’s Café,
inspired by Hollywood
classic Casablanca
A Common Misconception
Ironically, the one famous film with a Moroccan connection,
Casablanca (1942), was not shot here. Like countless others,
the movie was shot almost entirely at Warner Bros. Studios in
Burbank, California. In spite of this, you can still get a flavour Did You Know?
of the romantic drama in the Moroccan city. Step back in time
Orson Welles stayed at
at Rick’s Café (p118), designed
Essaouira’s Hôtel des Îles
to recreate the bar made
when filming Othello
famous by Humphrey
(1951). He met Winston
Bogart and Ingrid
Churchill here.
Bergman. Here’s
looking at you,
Casablanca.
Game of Thrones
Blockbuster swords and
dragons series Game of
Thrones (2011–19) had a
number of scenes filmed here
in Morocco. Coastal Essaouira
(p126) stood in for the fictional
city of Astapor, also known
as the Red City, with several
scenes shot on the old fortified
sea walls. The mud-walled
kasbah of Aït Benhaddou
(p280) was used to represent
the slavers’ city of Yunkai.
Further scenes were shot in Fortress-turned-film set
the arid deserts surrounding Aït Benhaddou, used in
Ouarzazate (p282). Game of Thrones (inset)
53
Hendrix and Essaouira
Jimi Hendrix spent a week in
Essaouira in July 1969. His
visit has inspired a thriving
local “Hendrix-stayed-here”
cottage industry. In fact, the
only place he stayed was the
Hôtel des Îles, near the port.
This has not stopped the
village of Diabat making the

most of his visit. Here you will
find the Café Hendrix, which
is adorned with a large mural
of the famous musician.
Brightly coloured
mural of Jimi Hendrix,
located in Diabat
MOROCCO ON THE
HIPPY TRAIL
From the mid 1960s to the early 1970s, Morocco became part of the hippy
movement. The free-spirited hung around the medinas in search of
enlightenment and inspiration, as well as a good time. Today, Morocco still
appeals to travellers looking to lose (or find) themselves in local culture.
Hanging out at the Café Baba

MUSIC FESTIVALS As the closest point to Europe, everyone
Morocco’s homegrown passed through the once lawless city
musicians are joined by of Tangier. The cafés on the Petit Socco
international artists (p146) were, and still are, the places
for a whole host of to meet. The same goes for Café Baba,
annual music festivals. also in Tangier, which was once a
Chief among them is popular haunt of writers and musicians.
the Gnaoua World
Music Festival (p129),
which has been taking
place in Essaouira since
1998. Also regularly
attracting big inter-
national names are
the Fès Festival of
World Sacred Music,
which has expanded
its remit beyond the
spiritual to embrace
rock and pop, and
Rabat’s contemporary
Mawazine Festival,
which is one of the
largest music festivals
in the world. The pastel blue walls of
Café Baba, adorned with
photographs of musicians
54
Coastal Vibes
TOP
MOROCCAN
4
About 19 km (12 miles) north
of Agadir is the small fishing INSPIRED
village of Taghazout, where TRACKS
surf culture dominates. A
popular spot for visitors “Marrakesh Express”
seeking to escape the cities, it by Crosby, Stills
was colonized by the hippy and Nash
movement in the 1970s, and Inspired by a trip
still retains much of its songwriter Graham
bohemian charm. Nearby Nash made by train
Banana Village and Paradise from Casablanca to
Valley (a worthwhile day trip Marrakech in 1966.
for rock pools and waterfalls)
attract many backpackers “Jealous Guy”
seeking adventures on the by John Lennon
road less travelled – not The Beatles spent time
so easy these days in Morocco and an early
with tourism on version of this Lennon
the rise. song was called “On the
Road to Marrakesh”.
“Continental Drift”
by The Rolling Stones
The Stones recorded
Relaxing by
with Morocco’s Master
the sea near
Musicians of Jajouka
near tranquil
on their 1989 Steel
Taghazout, a
Wheels album.
surfing paradise
“No Quarter”
by Robert Plant
and Jimmy Page
The video to accompany
this 1994 recording was
filmed on Jemaa el-Fna.
The Rolling Stones at Jemaa el-Fna

In March 1967 the Rolling Stones took up
temporary residence at the Es Saadi hotel in
Marrakech. They made field recordings of
local Gnaoua musicians in Jemaa el-Fna, the
descendents of whom still play on the square
most evenings (p236). There are also concerts A performance
of local musicians four nights a week at Café by Gnaoua
Clock in the Kasbah, a funky venue that keeps musicians in
the creative spirit of Marrakech burning. Jemaa el-Fna
55
Did You Know?

On Legriza Beach there
stands a monumental
sandstone arch,
formed from years
of erosion.
MOROCCO FOR
BEACHGOERS
With over 1,930 km (1,200 miles) of combined Mediterranean and Atlantic
coastline, Morocco has no shortage of beaches. Other than a few resorts,
much of this coastline is relatively undeveloped, particularly in the south.
For those seeking watersports, Morocco is also a major centre for surfing.
Bustling Beach Resorts

The premier Moroccan beach resort is Agadir
(p302) thanks to its long, wide, white-sand
beach and year-round sunshine. It has plenty
of good hotels and lots going on when it comes
to eating, drinking and nightlife. Further
north on the Atlantic coast, locals flock to the
pretty town of Asilah (p94) in the summer
months, turning the quiet town into a thriving
resort. On the Mediterranean, Tamuda Bay has
a lovely beach that slopes gently into the sea.
Palms trees, modern hotels and

a glorious sandy bay at Agadir
56
Watersports on the Atlantic Coast
A number of spots along Morocco’s Atlantic
coast rate highly among the global surf
community. These include Mehdya (p98)
near Rabat, Sidi Kaouki (p132) near Essaouira,
and further to south, the small, sleepy town
of Sidi Ifni (p304). Further south still, Dakhla
has a lagoon renowned for watersports,
including kite surfing. Strong winds and
currents mean that these places are best
suited to experienced surfers. Less
demanding watersports and other activities
are offered at resorts such as Agadir (p302).
Gliding along the waters of Dakhla’s lagoon,

an area famous for its powerful winds
INSIDER TIP
Beach Dress
Code
Bikinis are fine at
resorts but on more
remote beaches it’s
customary for women
to wear a sarong when
not in the water. Pack
a wetsuit for water
sports: the Atlantic’s
chill may suprise you.
A surfer exits the

water after a hard
day’s surfing
Off the Beaten Track

If you really want to lose the
crowds, head south. There
are countless excellent
beaches beyond Agadir,
including the secluded
Plage Sauvage and Legriza,
both near Sidi Ifni (p304).
The area is not the most
accessible, which is why it
has remained a haven for
those desiring peace. One
of the country’s longest
and loveliest stretches
of sand is at Saïdia (p170), Crystal-clear water in
on the north coast not far a secluded cove near
from the Algerian border. the town of Saïdia
57
Go Public with the Locals
Bathing is a huge part of Moroccan culture, so
it’s not surprising that every town and city
has its bathhouse. The advent of domestic
plumbing means public bathhouses are more
about socialising than getting clean. Join the
locals at the famous Hammam El Bacha (20
Rue Fatima Zohra, Medina) in Marrakech
(p230); it was built for the servants of the ruler
of Marrakech, who resided in the nearby Dar El

Bacha. In Fès (p172), the Hammam Aïn Azleten
(Talâa Kebira) and Hammam Sidi Azouz (Talâa
Seghira, opposite Hôtel Lamrani) both offer an
authentic experience in the Medina.
Intricate tilework at a
public bathhouse
MOROCCO FOR
HAMMAMS
AND SPAS
The Moroccan hammam experience is certainly one that ought not to be
missed. Ranging from simple one-room saunas to elaborate hammam
complexes, and offering massages, facials and – if you’re feeling brave –
an invigorating full body scrub down, this is the perfect way to unwind.
Plush Private Hammams
A wave of boutique hammams catering for travel-
worn tourists has swept across the country. Those
seeing a high-end hammam experience should
consider staying in a larger riad or hotel with a
hammam on site, such as La Sultana Marakkech
(www.lasultanahotels.com). These private
hammans are dedicated to pampering, with steam
rooms, plunge pools and treatment rooms galore.
Alternatively ask staff for local recommendations.
Relaxing at the
luxury La Sultana
Marrakech hotel
A massage MOROCCAN
table sprinkled MASSAGE
with rose An essential part
petals and lit by of the hammam
candlelight at a experience is a
luxury riad spa in massage. Not for the
Fès, northern Morocco faint-hearted, this
involves being rubbed
down with fragrant
Indulge at a Destination Spa essential oils, followed
Morocco offers an exceptional selection by a vigorous all-over
of spa treatments, often incorporating kneading. The full
locally sourced natural oils, such as treatment takes about
Rose Absolute from around the Dadès an hour and leaves you
Gorge (p290) and native argan (p138). with limbs like jelly.
Head to Agadir (p302) for seawater spas, There is usually a strict
while yogis will enjoy the specialist Om separation of the sexes
Yoga camp in Casablanca (2 Rue Golfe when it comes to
des Comores). There’s also the thermal massage: masseurs for
centre at Moulay Yacoub (Vichy men, masseuses for
Thermalia Moulay Yacoub, Fès women. Men typically
Principale). In and around Marrakech wear shorts (or wrap
has the greatest number of retreats, a towel around them-
selves) while women
typically attached to luxury hotels.
tend to go naked.
Swimwear or under-
wear is permitted if you
A tranquil, illuminated
don’t want to bare all.
hammam pool beneath the
Hassan II Mosque, Casablanca
59
Did You Know?

Storks are thought
to be reincarnations of
marabouts (holy men)
and so are viewed
as sacred.
MOROCCO FOR
SPIRITUALITY
Although Morocco is a Muslim country, many people retain beliefs that are
outside the mainstream religion. The cult of saints and holy men is strong,
and the practising of spiritualist rites (zikrs) is a spectacle for any visitor
looking to experience Morocco’s colourful spiritual life.
Tombs of Holy Men

Followers of holy men (marabouts) gather
eagerly to make pilgrimages to their tombs
and receive blessings (baraka). These small
mausoleums, which are often covered with a
white dome, can be seen throughout Morocco.
A charming example in Marrakech are the
Saadian Tombs (p256), tucked away in a
peaceful garden. Some important shrines – or
zaouias – are the subject of mass pilgrimages
known as moussems. These gatherings are
both spiritual and commercial occasions and
are well worth attending. If you’re in Fès in Worshipping at
late summer, make time to join the moussem the tomb of Moulay
at the Zaouia of Moulay Idriss II (p188). Idriss I in Meknès
60
Moroccan Blues
Gnaoua is both a type of music and the name
of those who play it. The Gnaoua people trace
their ancestry back to sub-Saharan Africa,
though they were taken north by slave
traders. The favoured instrument of the
Gnaoua musicians is the gimbri, a long-necked
lute that produces hypnotic sounds. They are
best experienced at Essaouira’s Gnaoua World
Music Festival (p129). You can also hear them
year-round at Jemaa el-Fna in Marrakech (p236).
Gnaoua THE MOUSSEM

musicians Moussems are festivals
performing held in honour of saints
in the streets and holy men and are
of Essaouira typically rural affairs,
although some have
acquired national
significance. The
largest include the
Moussem of Moulay
Idriss held in Moulay
Idriss (p202) and the
Moussem of Moulay
Idriss II in Fès (p188).
Some are attached to
the lunar calendar so
they change date.
Playing a gimbri, an
instrument favoured
by the Gnaoua people
Medicine and Magic

Moroccans have a strong
belief in the power of ritual
and charms. Exorcists in the
south do a good business
battling jinns – the spirits that
bring bad luck. Look out for
traditional herbalist stalls in
the souks of Fès el-Bali (p185)
and Marrakech (p238), where Assorted spices
vendors demonstrate the and herbs for sale in
powers of their wares. Marrakech’s medina
61
A YEAR IN
MOROCCO
DISCOVER A Year in Morocco
JANUARY FEBRUARY
Yennayer, the Amazigh New Year (12–13 Jan). △ Almond Blossom Festival (2nd week
Traditional Berber celebration of the new crop in Feb). Held in hilltop Tafraoute, Morocco’s
year in Agadir, Tiznit and the Middle Atlas. largest producer of almonds.
△ Marrakech Marathon (late Jan). See Moussem of Sidi ben Aïssa (late Feb–early
Marrakech at a blur as you race around the city. Mar). One of Morocco’s most spectacular
saint’s festivals, held in Meknès.
MAY JUNE
△ Rose Festival (varies). Celebrating the rose Fès Festival of World Sacred Music
harvest at El-Kelaa M’Gouna. (late Jun). An excellent world-music festival.
Trans-Atlas Marathon (late May). 273 km Previous participants have included BjÖrk
(170-mile) race through the High Atlas. and Patti Smith.
Mawazine Festival (May/June). Rabat pop and △ Gnaoua World Music Festival (late Jun).
rock festival, with past headliners such as Rihanna. Four-day festival of pop, jazz and world
music held in Essaouira.
SEPTEMBER OCTOBER
Oasis Festival (mid-Sep). A techno △ Salon du Cheval (mid-Oct). A top
dance-fest held just outside Marrakech. international horse show held at El-Jadida
△ Imilchil Marriage Festival (mid-Sep). on the Atlantic Coast.
Celebrated by Middle Atlas Berber tribes. Erfoud Date Festival (varies). This three-day
Jazz au Chellah (late Sep). Five-day carnival is held in the Southern Oases, and
East-meets-West jazz festival held in Rabat. takes place just after the date harvest.
62
APRIL
MARCH △ Marathon des Sables (early Apr).
Beyond Sahara (early Mar). This music, Extreme endurance seven-day foot race
culture, travel and wellbeing festival is held over 241 km (150 miles) of desert.
in locations across Morocco. Festival International De Merzouga
△ Maroc Classic (mid-Mar). An epic (early Apr). A festival of music and culture.
cross-country classic car rally. Jazzablanca (mid-Apr). Long-running jazz
festival that takes place in Casablanca.
JULY
Timitar Music Festival (early Jul). A vibrant
African music festival hosted in Agadir.
△ Asilah Festival (varies). Coastal arts festival
involving mural painting in Asilah medina. AUGUST
Festival of Popular Arts (varies). Berber Alegria Festival (mid-Aug). An arts and music
musicians and dance troupes from across festival held in Chefchaouen in the Rif.
Morocco perform in Marrakech. △ Moussem of Moulay Idriss (late Aug). This annual
Moussem is held in Morocco’s most important
pilgrimage site, the town of Moulay Idriss.
NOVEMBER DECEMBER
Independence Day (18 Nov). Colourful △ Tan Tan Moussem (early Dec). An amazing
parades and street parties mark Morocco’s gathering of thousands of Berber tribes in
1944 declaration of independence from Southern Morocco to celebrate nomadic
French and Spanish colonial powers. tradition and culture.
△ Marrakech International Film Festival Olive Tree Festival (mid-Dec). This agricultural
(last week Nov, first week Dec). A glam affair festival celebrating the noble olive is held in the
heaving with celebs, parties and film events. Rif town of Rafsaï, north of Fès.
63
DISCOVER A Brief History
A BRIEF 1
HISTORY
Morocco is an ancient and diverse kingdom. Its origins are distinctly Berber,
Arab and African, and since the 7th-century arrival of Islam, the country has
been an important power on the global stage. Many cultures have combined
to form Morocco today, and the influence of each is still tangible today.
Pre-Islamic Morocco
1 The port city of Safi in
For over 40,000 years Morocco has been a bridge between the
7th-century Morocco.
African and European continents. Archaeological finds prove
that it was settled by the Berbers in the remote past but little 2 The arrival of fearless
is known of the first pre-Arab inhabitants of North Africa, who Phoenician navigators.
may have come from Eurasia and the Middle East. 3 A mosaic depicting the
The Phoenicians established trading posts along the labours of Hercules,
Moroccan coast, which were later taken over by forces from found in of Volubilis.
Carthage (in modern Tunisia). In 146 BC, the Romans extended 4 A Berber general
their control westwards over the northern half of Morocco. during Morocco’s
It became part of a region they called Mauretania and its conquest of Spain.
Timeline of events
8000–7000 BC c 400 BC
Youssef ben Tachfin founds Berber tribes
Marrakech and starts to unite to establish
expand his Almoravid empire a kingdom, which
would ultimately
become known
c 1000 BC as Mauretania
Arrival of
the Phoenicians,
who established trading 46 BC
posts along the coast Roman Emperor
Claudius annexes the
Berber kingdom
64
2
3 4
southern frontier lay at the level of Rabat. In the 3rd century,

however, Christianity began to spread and Roman domination WHERE TO SEE
was severely diminished. Religious unrest and local uprisings PRE-ISLAMIC
gradually extinguished the hold of all the ancient civilizations. MOROCCO
Lixus (p100), on the
The Arrival of Islam North Atlantic coast,
From the end of the 7th century, a new set of invaders, and was a Phoenician
a new religion, began to make its mark on Morocco. In 705, settlement, although
Moussa ibn Nosaïr brought the territory from Tangier to the the ruins that can be
Draa valley under the control of the Arab Islamic Umayyad visited there date from
caliph in Damascus. He then turned his attention to Europe, the Roman era. There
initiating the conquest of Spain in 711. are more Roman
Back in Arabia, opposing sides battled for the right to rule remains at nearby
the Islamic empire. One of those on the losing side, Idriss ibn Banasa (p104), but
Abdallah, fled as far west as he could, ending up in Morocco. In the finest site by far
789, the Aouraba (a Berber tribe) made him their leader. Idriss is Volubilis (p198),
carved out a small kingdom, and set about building a new city, which includes the
Fès. He died soon afterwards, and was succeeded by his son, extensive remains of
Idriss II (793–828), who made Fès the Idrissid capital. The Idrissids a major town.
are considered to be the first of Morocco’s ruling dynasties.
705 859
Moussa ibn Nosaïr Work on the
conquers Morocco, Karaouiyine Mosque
spreading Islam in Fès begins
among the Berbers 793–828
Reign of Idriss II after
his father died, likely
poisoned by an envoy of
the Umayyad caliphs
789
Moulay Idriss I founds Fès
and establishes the first
Moroccan dynasty
65
1 2
Morocco and Andalusia 1 Ancient script,

At the death of Idriss II, the kingdom was divided between his thought to date from
10th–11th century.
two sons, and then between their descendants. There were
challenges from dynasties in Tunisia and Egypt, and from 2 Painting of the Chellah
Andalusia in Spain. Unexpectedly, the next empire rose from Necropolis, Rabat.
the south. A tribe of nomadic Berbers came out of the Sahara 3 Tapestry depicting
to launch a crusade for a pure Islamic state. Their leader was Portuguese King
Youssef ben Tachfin and he founded Marrakech, which became Alfonso’s taking of Asilah.
Morocco’s second capital and the powerbase for a new dynasty,
the Almoravids (1062–1147). The Almoravids extended their
empire across the Mediterranean, and it was during their reign
that the arts and crafts of Andalusia were imported into Morocco.
Did You Know?
One Dynasty After Another The imperial cities of Fès,
In opposition to the increasingly decadent Almoravids, the Marrakesh, Meknes and
Almohads (1121–1269) emerged from Tin Mal, a narrow valley in Rabat have all served
the High Atlas, and took control of the main cities of Morocco time as the capital
and Andalusia. Far from being zealots, they proved enlightened of Morocco.
rulers, reorganizing the empire’s administration and economy,
founding universities and encouraging a flourishing intellectual
Timeline of events
1062 1130–63 1212–69

Youssef ben Tachfin Abd el-Moumen, Decline of the
founds Marrakech the first Almohad Almohad dynasty
and starts to caliph, conquers as and loss of territories
expand his far as Tripoli in Andalusia
Almoravid empire
1107–42
Andalusian culture
takes root in Morocco
during the reign of
Ali ben Youssef
66
3
life. Theirs was an age of unequalled splendour. Ultimately, they

were driven out of Andalusia by the Spanish Christian princes,
and so began a cycle of Moroccan history in which revolutionary
nomads wrenched power from corrupt city-dwellers, only to
become bloated and complacent themselves, and ripe for the
next army to march down from the mountain passes.
A Shrinking Empire
Next in line were the Merinids (1248–1465), who gained control
of the major cities and fertile plains from 1248, although it was
not until 1269 that they conquered Marrakech. They were
unsuccessful in their attempts to regain territory on the Iberian An inscribed gold coin
peninsula and even lost the Moroccan region of Ceuta to the from the era of the
Portuguese. They were, however, competent domestic rulers Almohad dynasty
and great builders. Many of the finest of Morocco’s exquisite
medersas, such as the Bou Inania in Fès, were built in the
Merinid era. Inevitably, crises of succession and another
emerging Berber dynasty gradually undermined their
authority. On this occasion, with the waning of dynastic
power within Morocco, Europe took its chance to intervene.
1248 1415 1465

Abou Yahia, Henry the The Merinids are
followed by Abou Navigator takes ousted by the
Youssef Yacoub, Ceuta for Portugal Wattasids
establishes the
Merinid dynasty
1331–49
The Merinid period
reaches its peak under
Abou el-Hassan
67
DISCOVER A Brief History
1 2
European Domination
With the expulsion of the last Muslim forces from Andalusia
in 1492, the Spanish moved into northern Morocco and the
Portuguese seized towns on the Atlantic coast. The response
was led by the Beni Saad tribe from the Draa valley, which
established the Saadian dynasty (1525–1659).
Like those before them, the Saadians ultimately declined and
were replaced by the Alaouites, the seventh and present ruling
group. It took ten years for the dynasty’s founder, Moulay Rachid
(1664–72), to bring the country under his control.
When Moulay Abdel Aziz ascended the throne in 1894, France
already had an imperial presence in Algeria and Tunisia, and
aimed to secure a free hand in Morocco. In 1907 French forces
occupied Casablanca. Subsequent uprisings led the French to
impose a protectorate through the Treaty of Fès in 1912.
The Fight for Independence

Morocco was divided into two zones: a French zone, covering A depiction of French
the largest part of the country, and a Spanish zone, in the north colonial rule, established
and south. Tangier was an international free city. A new ruler, in Morocco in 1912
Timeline of events
1525 1912
The Saadians take The signing of the
Marrakech and make Treaty of Fès, through
it their capital which the French
impose a protectorate
1757–90
Rule of Sidi Mohammed
Ben Abdallah who
establishes his capital 1927
in Rabat Reign of the sultan
Mohammed ben Youssef,
(later Mohammed V) begins
68
3
Mohammed V, drew a following of young nationalists, who set 1 Painting depicting

up the Istiqlal (Independence) Party. The French responded by negotiations in the 1600s.
forcing Mohammed V into exile. But international opinion no 2 Moroccan and French
longer supported the colonial powers, and the United Nations leaders at the end of WW2.
stepped in. After negotiations with France, the deposed sultan
3 Kofi Annan of the UN
made his triumphant return from exile as King Mohammed V.
meets King Hassan II.
Morocco Today 4 King Mohammed VI

Today, Morocco is a constitutional monarchy. The head of state and Emmanuel Macron.
since 1999, King Mohammed VI (grandson of Mohammed V),
rules through an elected parliament. It is a Muslim state based
on Islamic law, although – certainly in the cities – few people
appear to be overtly religious. The country has strong economic Did You Know?
and political ties to the West, and old adversaries France and In 1777, Morocco became
Spain are Morocco’s primary trade partners, as well as their the first country to
primary foreign investors. Blessedly free of the political turmoil recognize the USA
that has raged elsewhere in North Africa, present-day Morocco as an independent
marries modern Mediterranean culture with a rich Islamic nation.
heritage, underlaid with ancient tribal Berber customs and
practices. It makes for a complex and intoxicating mix.
1956 2011
The French Protectorate Moroccans protest in
officially ends, and Rabat for months to
Morocco celebrates demand constitutional
its independence reform
2004
1999 The Al-Hoceima
Death of King Hassan II. earthquake kills more
His son, the current than 500 people in
reigning monarch, is Northern Morocco
crowned Mohammed VI
69
Striking blue medina of Chefchaouen
EXPERIENCE
Rabat.............................................................. 72
Northern Atlantic Coast ................... 90
Casablanca ............................................. 106
Southern Atlantic Coast .................. 122
Tangier....................................................... 140
Mediterranean
Coast and The Rif ................................154
Fès..................................................................172
Meknès and Volubilis ........................ 192
Middle Atlas..............................................212
Marrakech............................................... 230
High Atlas ............................................... 260
Ouarzazate and
the Southern Oases...........................276
Southern Morocco
and Western Sahara .........................298
Roman ruins at Chellah, Rabat
RABAT
Following the defeat of Alfonso VIII of Castel at
the Battle of Alarcos in 1195, the caliph Yacoub
el-Mansour embarked on the construction of a
great and splendid city that was to be known as
Ribat el-Fath (Camp of Victory). The Almohads’
defeat at the Battle of Las Navas de Tolosa in 1212
weakened their power and led to the city’s decline.
In 1610, Philip III of Spain expelled from his
kingdom the remaining Moors, who fled to the
cities of the Maghreb, with many settling in Rabat.
The city then became the capital of a minor and
relatively autonomous coastal republic. Funds
brought by the Andalucian refugees were put
towards a flotilla of privateers that preyed on
European shipping. The “Republic of Bou Regreg”,
as it was known, was then annexed to the sherif’s
kingdom in 1666, although piracy was not brought
to an end until the mid-19th century. In 1912
Marshal Lyautey made Rabat the political,
administrative capital of Morocco.
73
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Mechouar
Mechouar U
R
U
R
O O
M M Chellah Chellah
OUARZA ZA Necropolis
Necropolis
E
OTUEA R Z A Z A T E VD VD
NU UE BL BL
EN 0 metres 0 metres 500 N500 N
AV Bab ZaerBab Zaer
0 yards 0 yards 500 500
1"'
MAUSOLEUM OF
MOHAMMED V
EXPERIENCE Rabat
 E3 ⌂ Boulevard El-Alaouiyine # 9am–6pm daily
This complex on the edge of the Nouvelle Ville stands as a monument

to the reign of Morocco’s Alouite dynasty, which has held power since
1664. It comprises a mosque, museum and the mausoleum of the
father (the late Hassan II) and grandfather of the current king.
Raised in memory of Mohammed V, the father The stained-glass

of Moroccan independence, this majestic windows in the dome
building was commissioned by his son, Hassan were made in France, in
the workshops of the
II. It was designed by the Vietnamese architect
factory at St-Gobain.
Vo Toan and built with the help of 400
Moroccan craftsmen. The group of buildings
that make up the mausoleum include a
mosque and a museum devoted to the history
of the Alaouite dynasty. Visitors enter onto a
mezzanine gallery from which they can view
the sarcophagus and admire the exquisite
decoration of the chamber.
This twelve-sided dome,

with painted mahogany
muqarnas (stalactites),
crowns the burial chamber.
Carved from a single

block of marble, the
sarcophagus rests on
a slab of granite, Doorways lead to the
facing a qibla, balcony from which
symbolizing Mecca. Burial vault the sarcophagus can This intricate marble
containing the be viewed below. frieze features a song
body of of holy praise carved
Mohammed V in Maghrebi script.
76
Must See
The Mausoleum’s intricately

decorated chamber and Moorish-
style fountain (inset)
The doorways on the four

sides of the mausoleum
are fronted by slender
columns of Carrara marble.
This fountain is
embellished with
polychrome zellij
tilework and framed A guard on horseback watches over the
by a horseshoe arch. entrance to this sacred building.
MOHAMMED V
In the rest of the Arab world monarchies
were replaced by authoritarian
republican regimes (as in Iraq, Egypt,
Yemen and Tunisia). In Morocco,
These large however, Mohammed V’s patriotic
candelabra, with sentiment united the country behind a
slender vertical monarchy. A pious and outward-looking
shafts, are made Muslim, the king encouraged the
of pierced and emancipation of women, the education
engraved copper. of his people, and agrarian reform.
Main entrance
77
Did You Know?
Women feed eggs
to the sacred eels in
the Chellah basin in the
EXPERIENCE Rabat
hope of becoming
pregnant.
Ancient Roman ruins of

Sala Colonia sit within the
Islamic Chellah complex
78
Must See
2"
CHELLAH
NECROPOLIS
 E5 ⌂ Southeast of the city. Access via Bab Zaer,
best reached by taxi # 9am–6pm daily
One of Morocco’s most intriguing historical ruins, the Chellah is a sacred

walled burial ground, dotted with ruined tombs, crumbling temples and
imposing minarets topped with storks nests.
Just a short walk from Rabat’s bustling

medina, the once magnificent – now
distinctly eerie – Chellah Necropolis
houses Roman ruins and a medieval
Muslim burial ground. It was Abou
Yacoub Youssef, the first Merinid caliph,
who first chose this as the site of a
mosque in 1284. Abandoned in 1154
and damaged further by the Lisbon
earthquake in 1755, it was listed as a
World heritage Site in 2012. Today this
overgrown labyrinth of rock and rubble
is a fascinating place to explore.
Sala Colonia
Archaeological excavations revealed the
remains of a once prosperous Roman
city, known as Sala Colonia. Still visible
today is the decumanus maximus, the
main thoroughfare that crossed from
east to west, leading to the port. From Ancient archway
the forum, a road to the right leads at the abandoned
towards the Merinid necropolis. Chellah Necropolis
JAZZ AU CHELLAH
For five days in September
crowds descend on this
ancient site for a series of ten
concerts held here during the
annual Chellah jazz festival.
Founded in 1996 and moving
to this site in 2005, it brings
artists from the European
Union to meet and play with
local Moroccan musicians.
Find out more at www.
jazzauchellah.eu.
The imposing 13th-century Almohad

gate flanked by two towers marks
the entrance to the necropolis
79
3"-=
MOHAMMED VI
MUSEUM OF
MODERN AND
EXPERIENCE Rabat
CONTEMPORARY
ART
 C4 ⌂ Corner of Avenue Moulay Hassan & Avenue Allal Ben Abdellah
# 10am–6pm Wed–Mon ∑ museemohammed6.ma
Opened in October 2014, this is the first museum in Morocco devoted to

modern art. Known as the MMVI, its many exhibits are testament to the
country’s ongoing contribution to the contemporary art world.
Inaugurated by King Mohammed VI, this Giacometti, Picasso and contemporary
museum that bears his name is housed in an African art. In 2020 the museum will have an
elegant modern building that offers a fresh exhibition devoted to the French romantic
take on traditional Moroccan architecture. It painter Eugène Delacroix, who famously
was designed by local architect Karim Chakor painted in Morocco in the 19th century. The
and took a decade to build at a cost of permanent collection, which is displayed in a
approximately $23 million. The ground floor is series of galleries on the second floor, consists
used for temporary exhibitions, which to date of works by some of the most important
have included major shows of Goya, Moroccan artists of the last hundred years.
Must See
Lalla Essaydi
Contemporary Moroccan Artists

▼
Born in Marrakech in 1956, Essaydi champions
women, most famously in her series of large-scale
photographic works of female subjects in which
their clothing and bodies, along with the walls and
other surfaces around them are covered in densely
written calligraphic henna.
Sculptures by Moroccan artist

Abdeljalil Saouli and exterior
murals by Chaïbia Talal Farid Belkahia
Considered one of the most important of modern
Moroccoan artists, Belkhahia, was born in Marrakech
in 1934 and died in 2014. His early works were
Did You Know? completed mostly in oils, but he later became known
for painting on leather and incorporating symbols
Islam discourages the and imagery from Berber traditions.
depiction of people in
art, favouring instead Mohammed Ben
calligraphy and
abstract pattern.
Ali Rbati
▶ Regarded as the father of
Moroccan painting, Rbati

had no formal arts
training. His talent
emerged while working
as a cook for the Irish
painter Sir John Lavery.
Rbati used watercolours
to depict stylised street
scenes set in his native city
of Tangier.
Mohammed Melehi
Born 1936 in Asilah, Melehi trained as a painter in
Tétouan before continuing his studies overseas. He
became an influential teacher back in Morocco and a
pioneering modernist working in bright colours with
a recurring motif of a hard-edged wave.
Hassan Hajjaj
Born in Larache, Hajjaj lived in the UK as a child
and his life since has been split between the two
countries. Labelled a Moroccan Andy Warhol, his work
includes photographic portraits, video and hand-
crafted objects fashioned out of recycled materials.
Works by Abdelkbir Rabl (left) and

Mohamed Romain Atallah on display
before the museum’s official opening
81
EXPERIENCE MORE
towers with embrasures to
4 hold cannons and dug a INSIDER TIP
City Walls system of underground pass- Moroccan Rugs
ages leading from within the These are typically
 B3 ⌂ In the north of the
kasbah to the exterior. handmade on a loom
EXPERIENCE Rabat
city, accessible via Place du

The city walls are built of by Berber village
Souk el-Ghezel and Place de
rough-hewn stone covered women. Prices vary,
l’Ancien Sémaphore
with a thick coating of ochre and bargaining is a
Separated from the medina plaster. They are set with must. Offer as little as a
by Place du Souk el-Ghezel, the imposing towers and bastions, third of the stated price
Oudaïa Kasbah is defended which are more numerous and expect to eventually
by thick ramparts. These were along the stretch of the walls pay around 50 per cent.
built mostly by the Almohads facing the sea and the river. Otherwise, walk away.
in the 12th century, and were The walls are surmounted by
restored and remodelled in a rampart walk bordered by a
the 17th and 18th centuries low parapet; part of the ram- examples of typical Almohad
by the Moriscos (Muslim part walk survives. architecture. But the particu-
refugees from Andalusia) This sturdy building and lar design and conception of
and the Alaouite kings. sophisticated military con- this 12th-century gateway
Most of the Almohad walls struction defended the pirates’ make it more of a decorative
that face on to the sea and nest and withstood almost all feature than a piece of military
run inland survive. The walls attacks from European forces. defence work. Flanked by two
surrounding the Andalusian towers, it is crowned by a
Garden date from the reign horseshoe arch. The inner and
of Moulay Rachid (founder outer façades are decorated
of the Alaouite dynasty). The 5 with rich ornamentation
Hornacheros (Andalusian Bab Oudaïa carved in relief into the stone
emigrants) who occupied the as the base of the parapet.
 C1 ⌂ Oudaïa Kasbah,
kasbah and rebuffed attacks Above the arch, two bands
leads to the kasbah from
from both sea and land re- with interlacing lozenges are
Place du Souk el-Ghezel
built the curtain wall in several outlined with floral decoration.
places and constructed the The main entrance into the Both sides of the gate are
Pirates’ Tower, whose inner kasbah, Bab Oudaïa towers crowned with calligraphy.
stairway leads down to the over the cliffs that line the The gatehouse of the
river. They also pierced Bou Regreg, dominating former Oudaïa Palace was
the walls of Rabat’s ancient medina. This also a defensive feature, as
the old monumental city gate, built in well as a tribunal. Today, the
Almohad dressed stone of red ochre, is gatehouse serves as
considered one of the finest an exhibition hall.
The sun beating down on
the ancient walls of the
Oudaïa Kasbah
EAT
Dar Zaki
Fine Moroccan cuisine
with a local twist.
 C2 ⌂ 23 Rue
Bab Oudaïa towers of doors. The smaller houses Moulay Brahim
are of simple design, most of § (0537) 70 27 33 ¢ Sun
over the cliffs that them built of stone rendered
line the Bou Regreg, with limewashed plaster. Most

dominating Rabat’s of the richer houses tucked

away in the different quarters La Koutoubia
ancient medina.
of Rabat are built around a A Rabat classic since
central courtyard, like those 1955, offering excellent
in other Moroccan medinas, Moroccan dishes.
6 and have a refined elegance.  D4 ⌂ 10 Rue Pierre
Place du Souk Walking west along Rue Parent § (0537) 70 10 75
el-Ghezel and Hadj Daoui leads to Dar el- ¢ 3–7pm daily
Rue Hadj Daoui Mrini, a fine private house 
built in 1920 and transformed
 C1
into an exhibition and
A convenient place to start conference centre. Cosmopolitan
exploring Rabat’s medina Serving seasonal
French cuisine cooked
is Place du Souk el-Ghezel
to perfection, this
(Wool Market Square), so
named because of the market 7 elegant restaurant is
Musée des Oudaïa one of the top places to
once held here. This was also
eat in Rabat. The menu
the place where Christian
 C1 ⌂ Oudaïa Kasbah, changes daily
prisoners were once sold as
accessible via a gateway in  B4 ⌂ Ave Ibn Toumert
slaves. Today, fine carpets
the southwestern walls & Rue Abou Abbas El
made in the city are auctioned
¢ For renovation Guerraoui
here every Thursday morning.
§ 0537 20 00 28
Rue Hadj Daoui, southwest In the 17th century, Moulay
of Place du Souk el-Ghezel, Ismaïl built a small palace 
leads into the residential area within the kasbah. This would
of the medina, where the become the residence of the
streets are quieter and the first Alaouite sultans while
houses built by the Moriscos they were based in Rabat, as
are still visible. an inscription on the wooden The palace as it is today
The unmistakable mark the lintels of the central patio consists of a main building
Moriscos made on Rabat can indicates: “Unfailing fortune arranged around an arcaded
be seen in the architecture: for and brilliant victory to our lord courtyard. The four sides of
example, semicircular arches Smaïl, leader of the faithful.” the courtyard lead off into
and ornamental motifs such The palace was completely large rectangular rooms with
as pilasters consisting of restored and slightly altered marble floors and geometric-
vertically arranged mouldings during the Protectorate, and ally coffered ceilings. The sur-
that decorate the upper parts has since undergone further rounding buildings include a
phases of restoration and prayer room for private wor-
renovation. Since 1915, the ship, a hammam (steam bath)
palace has housed the Musée and a tower. A beautiful garden
Bab Oudaïa, the kasbah’s des Oudaïa. Though the laid out in the Andalusian
monumental city gate, museum is currently closed, the style gives the palace the
built in the 12th century grounds may still be explored. status of a princely residence.
83
EXPERIENCE Rabat
lively street is packed with dressed stone, and pierced

8 leatherworkers, jewellers, with openings in the shape
Rue des Consuls fabric merchants and traders of lobed arches.
in all sorts of other goods. Opposite the mosque is a
 C2 ⌂ Eastern part of
14th-century fountain with
the medina
a pediment of intersecting
Running through the medina, arches. On the corner of Rue
Rue des Consuls begins at the 10 Sidi Fatah, is the Moulay
Wool Market in the north and Rue Souïka Sliman Mosque, or Jamaa el-
leads towards the Andalusian Souika, built on the site of an
 C2 ⌂ In the medina
Wall in the south. Up to the earlier place of worship.
¢ Great Mosque: closed to
time of the Protectorate, this
non-Muslims
street was where all foreign
consuls in Rabat lived. Covered Running southwest from Rue
with rushes and a glass roof, Souk es-Sebat, Rue Souïka 11
the street is lined with the (Little Souk Street) is the main Andalusian Wall
shops of craftsmen and artery through the medina.
 D2 ⌂ Between Bab
traders, making it the liveliest Lined with busy restaurants
el-Had and Place Sidi
quarter in the medina. and small shops selling all
Makhlouf
South of Rue Souk es-Sebat manner of goods, the street
the street changes name to throngs with people most of In the 17th century, the
Rue Ouqqasa, which borders the day, the air fragranced Moriscos – Muslim refugees
the mellah (Jewish quarter). with the heady perfume of from Andalusia – found the
In Rue Tariq el-Marsa is the the spice merchants’ wares.
Ensemble Artisanal, selling At the intersection with Rue
Moroccan crafts, and, a little de Bab Chellah stands the
further on, is a restored 18th- Great Mosque, built between
century naval depot. the 13th and 16th centuries
and restored during the
Alaouite period. The mosque’s
most prominent feature is the
9 minaret, completed in 1939.
Rue Souk es-Sebat It is built of ashlars (blocks of
hewn stone), decorated with
 C2 ⌂ In the medina
This thoroughfare begins at

the Great Mosque and ends at
Bab el-Bhar (Gate of the Sea), The prestigious Hassan
crossing Rue des Consuls. Tower overlooking the
Covered by a rush trellis, this remains of Hassan Mosque
84
small chambers intended to
accommodate the soldiers who
The glass roof over
the bustling Wool Market
were in charge of the guard,
the armouries and the billeting Did You Know?
on Rue des Consuls
of the troops. The unfinished Hassan
Tower stands at 44 m
medina undefended and so (145 ft), about half its
encircled it with a defensive
wall. Named for its builders, 12 intended height of
80 m (260 ft).
the Andalusian Wall stands Hassan Tower
about 5 m (16 ft) high and
 E2 ⌂ Rue de la Tour
runs in a straight line for
Hassan ¢ To the public
more than 1,400 m (4,595 ft) Great Mosque of Córdoba by
from Bab el-Had (Sunday For more than eight centuries, several metres. It was the
Gate) in the west to the borj the Hassan Tower, built by largest religious building in
(small fort) of Sidi Makhlouf Yacoub el-Mansour in about the Muslim West, inferior only
in the east. The wall is set 1196, has stood on the hill to the Great Mosque of
with towers placed at regular overlooking Wadi Bou Regreg. Samarra in Iraq.
intervals and is topped by a Best seen as you approach A great courtyard lay at the
rampart walk. This is protected Rabat by the bridge from foot of the tower, while the
by a defensive parapet that Salé, it is one of the city’s huge prayer hall was divided
the Andalusians pierced with most prestigious monuments into 21 avenues separated by
numerous narrow slits known and a great emblem of Rabat. lines of gigantic columns
as loopholes. The construction of this crowned with capitals. Remains
To the east of the wall, they gigantic mosque, of dimen- of these imposing stone
built the Bastion Sidi Makhlouf, sions quite out of proportion columns survive and still
a small, irregular fort that with the population of Rabat convey an impression of
consists of a platform resting at the time, suggests that the infinite grandeur.
on solid foundations, with a Almohad ruler had grand The minaret, a square-sided
tower close by. They also built intentions to make the city tower, was to have surpassed
embrasures over two of the his new imperial capital. the height of the Koutoubia
Almohad gates, Bab el-Alou An alternative interpretation Mosque (p234) and the Giralda
and Bab el-Had. is that the Almohads were in Seville, but it was never
Bab el-Had was once the attempting to rival the magnif- completed. Even unfinished,
main gateway into the medina. icent Great Mosque of Córdoba, its size is still impressive. Each
Dating from the Almohad the former capital of the of its four sides is decorated
period (1147–1248), it was Islamic kingdom in the West. with blind lobed arches.
rebuilt by Moulay Sliman in Either way, after the death of On the topmost level of the
1814. On the side facing Yacoub el-Mansour in 1199, minaret, extended interlacing
Boulevard Misr, one of the the unfinished mosque fell into arches form a sebkha motif
gate’s two pentagonal towers disrepair. All but the mosque’s (lozenge-shaped blind fret-
stands close to the Almohad minaret was destroyed by an work). The interior is divided
walls, which earthquake in 1755. into six levels, each of which
probably date from The Hassan Mosque was consists of a domed room,
1197. Bab el-Had built to a huge rectangular and is linked and accessed
contains several plan, larger than that of the by a continuous ramp.
It was from the Hassan
Tower that Mohammed V
conducted the first Friday
prayers after independence.
Mohammed V, the main
13 avenue, runs from the medina 14 "
Ville Nouvelle to the El-Souna Mosque, or Musée de l’Histoire
Great Mosque, which was built et des Civilisations
 C3
by Sidi Mohammed in the
 D4 ⌂ 23 Rue el-Brihi
During the 44 years of the 18th century. The avenue is
(behind the Grand Mosque,
Protectorate, Marshal Lyautey lined with residential blocks in
opposite the Chellah Hotel)
and the architects Prost and the Hispano-Maghrebi style.
§ (0537) 70 19 19 # 10am–
Ecochard built a new town They were built by the admin-
EXPERIENCE Rabat
6pm Wed–Mon (last

in the empty part of the istration of the Protectorate,
admission 45 mins before
extensive area enclosed by as were the Bank of Morocco,
closing) ¢ Public hols
the Almohad walls. Laying out the post office, the parliament
wide boulevards and green building and the railway Formerly known as the Musée
spaces, they created a station. The Bank of Morocco Archéologique, this institution
relatively pleasant town with also houses the Musée Bank reopened in 2017 with a new
a spacious feel. Avenue Al Maghrib, which displays a name following a period of
coin collection, plus Moroccan modernization. It holds the
and Orientalist paintings. most extensive collection of
A NEW CULTURAL Rue Abou Inan leads to the archaeological artifacts in the
CAPITAL Cathédrale Saint-Pierre, a country, displayed in a building
Rabat is currently in the pure white building dating constructed in the 1920s under
process of transforming from the 1930s. French rule.
itself. The banks of the The museum presents a
Bouregreg River are the Musée Bank Al Maghrib chronological tour through
site for a large develop- ⌂ Bank of Morocco, Rue du the history of Morocco, from
ment that will include a Caire # Times vary, check prehistory to the Islamic era.
revamped archaeologi- website ∑ bkam.ma/musee An alternative thematic route
cal museum, an arts allows visitors to explore the
centre and a national Cathédrale Saint-Pierre collection through a specific
archive building, along ⌂ Place du Golan § (0537) focus on marble and bronze
with malls, a hotel and 72 23 01 # 9am–noon &
a residential district. 3–6pm daily
The crowning glory will
be a new Grand Theatre.
Its fluid lines, inspired Palms lining Avenue
by the river, are already Mohammed V and the
taking shape. towers of Cathédrale
Saint-Pierre (inset)
86
The intricate façade
of Dar el-Makhzen
intrigues visitors
with its arched brass
gate detailed with
mosaic tilework and
carved cedar wood.
statuary, which comes mainly

from Volubilis (p198) and
which demonstrates the
wealth enjoyed by Morocco’s
Roman towns (p105). Notable
objects include an ephebe
(young soldier)wearing a
crown of delicately carved ivy,
the so-called Dog of Volubilis, Guards flanking the entrance to
which dates from the reign the Dar el-Makhzen (royal palace)
of Hadrian (early 2nd century)
and was designed to be
accompanied by a human entering the palace itself,
figure, and a bust of Juba II, the exterior is of interest in
which dates from 25 BC and its own right. Built on the
STAY
is probably from Egypt. site of an 18th-century royal
residence, the palace was
completed in 1864 but was
constantly enlarged thereafter; L’Alcazar
15 today, it even includes a race- This chic riad is situated
Bab el-Rouah course. The intricate façade right in the heart of
of Dar el-Makhzen intrigues Rabat's bustling
 C4 ⌂ Place an-Nasr
visitors with its arched brass medina. Beautiful
# Gallery: daily during
gate detailed with mosaic tile- rooms and plush suites
exhibitions
work and carved cedar wood. surround a central
A sturdy and imposing The palace now houses courtyard, while an
Almohad gateway, Bab el- the offices of the Moroccan exquisite hammam and
Rouah, the Gate of the Winds, government, the Supreme rooftop terraces are
dates from the same period Court, the prime minister’s sure to delight.
as Bab Oudaïa (p82). offices, the Ministry of Habous  B2 ⌂ 4 Impasse Bab
The entrance is decorated and Islamic Affairs (the branch Abdellah, Bab Laalou,
with the outline of two horse- of government responsible for Medina ∑ lalcazar.com
shoe arches carved into the religious organizations), and 
stone and surrounded by a the El-Fas Mosque. The
band of Kufic calligraphy. méchouar, a place of public
The interior contains four assembly, is the venue for Le Pietri Urban Hotel
A smart, modern hotel
rooms with elegant domes, major gatherings, including
with spacious rooms
now used for exhibitions. the bayaa, a prestigious
and full amenities. Live
ceremony at which senior
music and jazz evenings
government ministers swear
take place in the hotel’s
their allegiance to the king.
16 Traditionally, the king would
restaurant, Le Bistrot
du Pietri, which serves
Dar el-Makhzen reside in the former harem, homemade dishes from
though the current king, around the world.
 B5 ⌂ In the northwest
Mohammed VI, stays in his
of the city ¢ To the public  C4 ⌂ 4 Rue Tobrouk,
own private residence.
Ville Nouvelle
An extensive complex enclosed Besides private buildings,
∑ lepietri.com
within its own walls, the Dar the palace also includes an
el-Makhzen (royal palace) is extensive and immaculately 
inhabited by about 2,000 kept garden, planted with
people. Although members of various species of trees and
the public are forbidden from with flowers in formal beds.
87
A SHORT WALK
THE OUDAÏA
KASBAH
EXPERIENCE Rabat
Distance 0.7 km (0.4 miles) Time 7 minutes

Fountain
The kasbah takes its name from the Oudaïas, an Arab The 12th-century
tribe with a warrior past that was settled here by Moulay Bab Oudaïa (p82), an
Ismaïl (1672–1727) to protect the city from the threat archetypal example of
Almohad military
of rebels. As you wander, look up to see part of the
architecture.
city walls that surround this hilltop “fortress”, and Bab
Oudaïa, the gate that pierces it, which dates from the
Almohad period (1147–1248). On Rue Jamaa, the main
thoroughfare of this picturesque district, stands the El-Alou
cemetery
El-Atika Mosque. This imposing sanctuary was built in
the 12th century, and is the oldest mosque in Rabat.
The western ramparts of

the city walls (p82) which
were built by Yacoub
el-Mansour in 1195. R
U
E
JA
M
AA
Musée des Oudaïa (p83)
has been house in the
historic palace of Moulay
Ismaïl since 1915.
O
ZZ
BA
E
RU
ZO
BAZ
RUE
RU
E B
A ZZO
START
The Andalusian Gardens are

a pleasant green space laid
out in the Moorish style at the
beginning of the 20th century.
Café Maure, a local haunt with
excellent views , is where Rabatis
Illustration of the come to relax and pass the time.
route around the
Oudaïa kasbah
88
The Oudaïa
Kasbah
RABAT
Locator Map
For more detail see p72
The walled Rabat medina, which is

filled with dozens of traditional shops
Blue or white lime-washed Did You Know?

houses,that were built in the
late 17th to early 18th centuries, Most of the 2001 film
line the narrow kasbah streets. Black Hawk Down,
starring Josh Hartnett,
was filmed in and
Almohad walls around Rabat.
The prayer hall of the El-Atika

Mosque, which was founded in about
1150 by Abd el-Moumen and is Rabat’s
oldest monument.
R
U
E
JA
M
AA
FINISH
The platform of the former

Oudaïa signal station, which
Pirates’ Tower was built in the 18th century
Carpet workshop by Sultan Sidi Mohammed
ben Abdallah.
0 metres 50
N
0 yards 50
89
Murals adorn the walls in the town of Asilah
NORTHERN
ATLANTIC COAST
To explore Morocco’s North Atlantic Coast is to
travel back in time, since the heritage of the
Phoenicians and the Romans, the corsairs, the
Portuguese and the Spanish, as well as that of
the French colonial period is ever-present
alongside the modern prosperity brought by
agriculture, port activity, trade and tourism.
For 250 km (155 miles), scenic roads skirt the
coastline and sandy bays, following the course
of the old Roman road linking the ancient city
of Sala Colonia, known today as Chellah (p78),
to the settlments of Banasa, Lixus and Tangier.
Over the centuries, the Atlantic Ocean has shaped
the history of these coastal towns: occupied from
Phoenician times and into the Roman period, they
have attracted pirates, invaders and Andalusian,
Spanish and French occupiers, each of whom left
their mark. It is also the ocean that gives the region
its gentle, moist climate (strawberries, bananas and
tomatoes are grown here in abundance) and drives
industry from Kenitra to Tangier, where the busy
port handles cargo bound for Europe and beyond.
91
NORTHERN
ATLANTIC COAST
Must Sees
1 Asilah
2 Salé
Experience More
3 Sidi Bouknadel
4 Mehdya
5 Forest of Maâmora
6 Kenitra
7 Thamusida
8 Lixus
9 M’Soura Stone Circle
10 Moulay Bousselham
11 Larache
12 Ksar el-Kebir
13 Souk el-Arba du Rharb
14 Banasa
A t l aA nt lt ai cn t i c
O c eOa cne a n
Sidi-el-Hachemi
Sidi-el-Hachemi
u S
u
bo
bo
Se
Se
di
di
Wa
Wa
MorhraneMorhrane
THAMUSIDA
THAMUSIDA
KENITRA
KENITRA
MEHDYA
MEHDYA
SIDI BOUKNADEL
SIDI BOUKNADEL O
E ST ES
F OR FO
R
Âïn-JohraÂïn-Johra
Rabat-SaléRabat-Salé
Airport Airport
SALÉ SALÉ Sidi-Allal-el-

Sidi-Allal-el-
BahraouiBahraoui
Rabat Rabat
RABATRABAT
p72 p72
Tifl
Ain el AoudaMIDDLE
Ain el Aouda MIDDLE
ATLASATLAS
0 kilometres
0 kilometres 20 20 N N p212 p212
Dar Chaoui
Dar Chaoui
ASILAHASILAH
M’SOURA
M’SOURA
STONE CIRCLE
STONE CIRCLE NORTHERNNORTHERN
ATLANTIC
ATLANTIC
COAST COAST
Sidi el- Yamani
Sidi el- Yamani Lakhthouthe
Lakhthouthe
MEDITERRANEAN
MEDITERRANEAN
LIXUS LIXUS
COASTCOAST
AND AND
LARACHE
LARACHE THE RIF
THE RIF
p154 p154
Derdara Derdara
Wa
Wa
di
di
Lo
Lo
os os
uk
uk
Laghdir Laghdir
KSAR EL-KEBIR
KSAR EL-KEBIR
Brikcha Brikcha
KehdadraKehdadra
MOULAY
MOULAY
BOUSSELHAM
BOUSSELHAM Arbaoua Arbaoua
Merja Merja Lalla- Lalla-

Zerga Zerga Zoumi Zoumi
MimounaMimouna
Ouezzane
Ouezzane
Masmouda
Masmouda
Tabouda Tabouda
SOUK EL-ARBA
SOUK EL-ARBA
DU RHARB
DU RHARB
Souk-Tleta-
Souk-Tleta-
du-Rharbdu-Rharb Âïn-Dorij Âïn-Dorij
Wa d i S e b Wa d i S e b
ou ou Had Kourt
Had Kourt
BANASA
BANASA
Mechra- Mechra-
Bel-Ksiri Bel-Ksiri
Jorf el Melha
Jorf el Melha
Sidi-Allal-Tazi
Sidi-Allal-Tazi
KhnichetKhnichet
Dar-Gueddari
Dar-Gueddari
Tihili Tihili
Karia Be Karia Be
Tekna Tekna MohammedMohammed
Msâada Msâada
MIDDLE
MIDDLE
ATLASATLAS
Sidi Yahya-
Sidi Yahya- p212 p212
du-Rharbdu-Rharb Sidi-Slimane
Sidi-Slimane
Sidi-Kacem
Sidi-Kacem
Dar-Bel- Dar-Bel-
F MOAF Â MMOARÂ M O R Amri Amri
A A
T
Ou e
Ou e
d Beht
d Beht
Moulay Idriss
Moulay Idriss Moulay Yacoub
Moulay Yacoub
El-Kansera
El-Kansera Zerhoun Zerhoun Prefecture
Prefecture
Khemis-Âït-
Khemis-Âït- El-Kansera El-Kansera
Yadine Yadine Reservoir Reservoir Ain Ain
TaoujdateTaoujdate
flèt Tiflèt
Meknes Meknes
Khemisset
Khemisset
Boufakrane
Boufakrane
EXPERIENCE Northern Atlantic Coast
Gentle waves lapping

against the city ramparts
that surround Asilah
ransom for vast sums of

1 money. One of his most
ASILAH
famous captives was Walter
Harris, a London Times writer,
who he held for three weeks
! D1 £ @ From Tangier or Rabat
before releasing him. It was
said that Er-Raisouli was well-
Established by the Phoenicians, Asilah was a prominant educated and could be quite
town in the pre-Roman and Roman periods. In 1471 charming, but he was also
it was captured by the Portuguese and became an capable of great cruelty. On
important centre of trade. Asilah came under Moroccan one occasion, he returned the
head of an envoy in a basket
control in 1691, during the reign of Moulay Ismaïl. of melons. His grand palace
Today, this small Andalusian-style town has a relaxed has been beautifully restored,
atmosphere and a well-maintained medina. The narrow complete with a glass-fronted
streets are paved or limed, and lined with houses terrace overlooking the ocean.
fronted by balconies. The town is frequented by The palace is open to visitors
painters, who mark the walls with signs of their during the Asilah Festival,
passing, particularly during the Asilah Festival. when this otherwise sleepy
seaside town bursts into life.
with blue decorative touches.

1 At the southern end of the
Medina ramparts is the koubba (shrine)
Asilah’s medina may be on the of Sidi Mamsour, which is off
small side, but it has rightfully limits to non-Muslims, but it is
gained a reputation for its also a good spot for views out
tranquility and cleanliness, a to sea, particularly at sunset.
suitable balm to the bustle of
nearby Tangier. Enclosed within
walls built by the Portuguese
in the 15th century, the medina 2
is entered by two main gates, Palais de Raissouli
the Bab el-Kasaba and the
⌂ Medina
bastion-like Bab el-Homar
(Land Gate), the latter deco- Moulay Ahmad Er-Raissouli
rated with a Portuguese royal was the last of the Barbary
coat of arms. The streets within pirates. He made a career out Colourful Moroccan
are narrow and winding, and of kidnapping prominent ceramics on display
the houses are painted white officials and holding them to in Asilah’s medina
94
Must See
ASILAH FESTIVAL
Asilah has long been
synonymous with art,
and many artists choose
to live here. Their
numbers are swollen
every July during the
Asilah Festival of art.
Every year the locals
freshly whitewash the
medina and visiting
artists are invited to
create street art using
the walls as a canvas.
visiting the town of Asilah.

Located in an attractive, 4
modern low-rise building just Church of San
inside the unassuming Bab el- Bartolome
Kasaba at the entrance to
⌂ Ave. du Prince Héretier
Asilah’s medina, the Centre de
Hassan II Rencontres This twin-towered church,
3 Internationales regularly built in the Hipano-Moorish
Centre de Hassan II hosts temporary and style, would not look out of
Rencontres returning art and sculpture place on an Andalusian plaza.
Internationales exhibitions in its many gallery It is a functioning Catholic
spaces. The venue comes into church, and is looked after by
⌂ Medina # 8:30am–5pm
its own each summer when it resident nuns who are happy
daily (to 8pm summer)
becomes the hub for the for visitors to look around the
The “Centre for International annual Asilah Festival. enchanting interior.
Encounters” functions as a
community hub, exhibition
I
space and meeting place for D
EH
local and international artists M
N
IB
AN
V
Por t S
ED
AS
M
d’Asilah H
AM
Y
AV
OH
LA
EN
U
UE
O
AV
SHOP
UE
M
EN
EN
DU
UE
AV
Centre de Hassan II
IB
Rencontres
PR
N
Internationales
IN
RO
CE
CH
H D HÉ
BA
Central Market AS R
AV E
-K IT
AL
Church of IE
Tucked beside the RU
E
NU
A San Bartolome R
Palais de UT
E
medina walls, Asilah’s TO

I TA E
EI
NI
Raissouli
UR NU
BA
MA
small central market

M A AV E
N
IB BIT
NA
RT
Medina E TA
mixes fruit and AV
A
N
O UM
L- A
IB
vegetables with NI
AN
SS
EN T
A I
HASS
SS AN
ILI
souvenirs. Visit on a RU
E AL HA
LH
AM
AD
DI B
GE EL E RU
Thursday for weekly RI
E ED FER
R AS EA
UK
L
ME H
KO
AM AVE ABOU DS
market day, when the
MO
MO H
AV
E
AV AR RE
E
number of stalls swells AL Y B

AV
EN
ENUE EM UE
O U AL I D
V
AV
AV
NO
in size. A row of 16 IM
EN
RD AN
E VA
BOU L
AV E
UE
restaurants at the AL
K
-A
N
OU
UE
HASSAN II
market serve fish and IB SS

RM
IBN
N IL
ZA I
seafood dishes.
YA
YD
OU
AL
H A LI D
N
⌂ Avenue Mohamed VI,
UE
Medina # 8am–8pm
AV Central Market
EN
EN
UE 0 metres 300 N
AV E K
AV
IM
AM

0 yards 300
95
Boats moored in
Salé’s peaceful
Bou Regreg Marina
2 2
SALÉ
The Souks
Salé’s kissaria and souks are
brimming with artisans and
! C2 ⌂ West of Rabat, on the right bank of Wadi Bou
traders. Entering the medina
Regreg k Rabat-Salé, 10 km (6 miles) on the Meknès
via Bab Bou Haja, to the right
road £ @ Route de Casablanca n Rabat (0537) 66 06 63
is the mellah, while the souks
are at the end of Rue Bab el-
Founded in the 11th century, Salé was fortified and Khebbaz, which emerges onto
embellished by the Merinids with a medersa, a mosque a square beside a kissaria for
and a magnificent aqueduct. During the Middle Ages it textiles. To the north is the
was a busy port and shared the lucrative business of Souk el-Kebir (Grand Souk), for
leather, carpets and household
privateering with its neighbour and rival Rabat (p72). items, and the Souk Haddadin,
When piracy ended in the 18th century, the town went for metalwork. To the west,
into decline, but it has found prosperity once again, as Rue Kechachin is home to
a major centre of the crafts industry. carpenters and stonemasons.
which are remarkably well

1 preserved for their age. The
City Walls walls are pierced by nine gates,
Unlike largely modern, secular
Rabat across the river, Salé
retains its medieval, spiritual
the largest of which is Bab Bou
Haja, the main entrance to the
medina, near the Bab Lamrissa
STAY
character. It has a well-defined tram stop. Close by, on the The Repose
medina, wrapped all the way southeastern side, is the rather This four-room retreat
around by its fortified walls, impressive 13th-century Bab in the heart of the
el-Mrisa (Gate of the Sea), which medina offers a
takes the form of a horseshoe stunning roof-top sun
arch flanked by two square terrace, cooking classes
and vegetarian and
Did You Know? towers. This was the entrance
to the maritime arsenal built vegan cuisine.
Salé was the more by Yacoub el-Mansour, and a ⌂ 17 Zankat Talaa,

canal linking Wadi Bou Regreg Ras Cherja, Medina
important city until
to the harbour passed through ∑ therepose.com
the French made Rabat
their capital in the it, allowing ships to sail right 
20th century. into the city, probably fresh
from plundering the high seas.
It has long since silted up.
96
Must See
3"
AV
Medersa Abou E
SI
El Hassan D
I
R
M
HI
O
US
AC
⌂ Rue de la Grande Mosquée SA
N
# 8:30am–5pm daily MEDINA
BE
DI
RU
E
SI
At the heart of the medina is AZ
ZI
UE
NE
the Grand Mosque, which dates Bastion des
EN
II
Larmes
A
AV
Z A N ATA
RU
TI
from the early 11th century,
AN
EB
AT
AV S O
AS
N
E UT
making it one of the oldest
BE
AB WI
LE
H
DE
E
RU
in Morocco. It is also one of L
R UE
UE
KA
DE
the largest in the country.
EN
R
AL
AV
HA
This is closed to non-Muslims. RR
Seamen’s AT
Next to the mosque is a Cemetery I
Grande
AK
BA
TL
medersa, founded in 1341 .S Mosquée A FK
IH
R
IDI Medersa BE
by the Merenid ruler Abou AB
DE
LL Abou
NK
H
AH El Hassan
el-Hassan and open to both
TA U E
AD
A
City Walls
LÂ
BE
RA
R
Zawiya of NH
AV
Muslims and non-Muslims. Sidi Abdallah AS

SO
EN
UN The Repose
Much like the Bou Inania Ben Hassoun
H
UE
H LI
SI
NC
Medersa in Fès (p178) and Ben AV
DI
MA
EN
AL
Youssef Medersa in Marrakech
BE
AM
MELLAH
TI
Cimetière U
EH
N
B
(p240), it features sumptuous musulman de
TE
AC
RU
M
AK
Sidi Benachir O
HI
Merenid architecture and U
M
R
UE
LA
decoration. Unlike the other R The Souks

Y
two, visitors can usually ascend

AL
Plage de
I C
UE 11 JANVIER
to the upper level to visit the Salé Ville
HE
old student cells. From the

RI
roof there are splendid views HA SBIH I

F
AV EN
RUE BA
across the river to Rabat.
BAB AL-BAHR
0 metres 250 N
4 0 yards 250
Seamen’s Cemetery
⌂ Avenue Hassan II
¢ Non-Muslims
which is marked by a candlelit
Immediately west of the Grand procession through the town. SALÉ ROVERS
Mosque (which only muslims Just beyond the shrine is the
Feared throughout
are permitted to enter) is the Seamen’s Cemetery, which is
17th-century Europe,
Zaouia of Sidi Abdallah ben dotted with more shrines of Salé was founded as an
Hassoun, patron saint of Salé, such holy men as Sidi ben independent pirate
boatmen and travellers. He is Achir. In the 16th century, he republic by a Dutchman
the focus of a moussem was credited with the power named Jan Janszoon
(festival) held each year to calm the waves, allowing van Haarlem, more
on the eve of his birthday, vessels to dock safely. commonly known as
Murat Reis the Younger.
He presided 18 ships,
which plundered the
Atlantic trading routes,
captured the island of
Lundy off the English
coast, and raided places
as far away as Ireland,
Corsica, and Sardinia.
The setting sun casts

shadows over the
Seamen's Cemetery
97
EXPERIENCE MORE
3 4
Sidi Bouknadel Mehdya
EAT ! C2 ⌂ 10 km (6 miles)
north of Salé on the N1 to
! C2 ⌂ 39 km (24 miles)
from Salé on the N1 to
Kenitra @ Rabat Kenitra, at km 29 turning
Restaurant
onto the Mehdya-Plage
Merzouga The serene Jardins Exotiques
road @ Kenitra, then
This restaurant is (tropical gardens) just outside
by taxi
favoured by locals. Sidi Bouknadel were laid out
Among the varied in 1951 by the horticulturist This small coastal resort is
menu, highights include Marcel François and are today much frequented by the
excellent fried-fish owned by the state. Some inhabitants of Rabat and
dishes, always prepared 1,500 species native to the Kenitra. On the estuary of
with the day’s catch Antilles, South America and Wadi Sebou, it stands on the
fresh off the boat. Asia grow in the garden. site of what may have been a
! C2 ⌂ 1 ère Rue Front Two kilometres (1.25 miles) Carthagenian trading post in
de Mer, No 84 Mehdya to the north is the Musée Dar the 5th century BC, and then
Plage § (0537) 38 98 71 Belghazi, with a collection an Almohad naval base. Later,
 of fine objects including the town was occupied by the
jewellery, kaftans, marriage Portuguese, the Spanish and
belts, carved wooden doors, the Dutch, and finally cap
Relais Maâmora pottery and musical tured by Moulay Ismaïl (p196)
A family-friendly retreat
instruments. The museum at the end of the 17th century.
offering activities such
was established by a master The kasbah, which stands
as archery and paintball,
woodcarver, with bequests on the plateau, still has its
plus a working farm.
from artists and collectors. original walls and its moated
The on-site restaurant
bastions. The monumental
serves Moroccan and
Jardins Exotiques gate, built by Moulay Ismaïl,
international cuisine.
" # Autumn & winter: leads to the governor’s palace.
! C2 ⌂ Sidi Allal El 9am–5:30pm; spring & The Sidi Boughaba Lake,
Bahraoui ∑ relais
summer: 9am–7:30pm along the Mehdya Plage road,
maamora.com
is a large bird sanctuary:
 Musée Dar Belghazi thousands of birds rest here
" ⌂ Km 47, Route de during their migration
Kenitra § (0537) 82 21 78 between Europe and sub
# 9am–5pm daily Saharan Africa.
98
A wooden hut overlooking
one of the many quiet spaces Did You Know?
in the Jardins Exotiques
The Moroccan fishing
industry employs
Although the forest is now some 200,000 people
planted mostly with eucalyptus, and brings in US $600
which grows much faster than million per year.
other species, large tracts of
it are still covered with cork
oak, which is grown for its
bark. At a factory in nearby with villas, a European-style
Sidi Yahia, eucalyptus wood town centre and less affluent
is turned into a pulp that is suburban areas.
used in the production of In the harbour, on the right
paper and the manufacture bank of Wadi Sebou, regional
of artificial silk. produce from the Rharb (such
Being intensively exploited as rice, sugar beet, citrus fruit,
and degraded by the grazing cork, cotton, cereals and pulp
of cattle, sheep and goats, the for papermaking) is unloaded
forest is becoming increasingly for use in local industries.
Sidi Boughaba Lake bare. However, enough cover Once a marshy area that was
n National Education Centre remains to allow a refreshingly rife with malaria (but still used
for Environmental Education cool walk in summer, when for extensive stock-farming),
of Sidi Boughaba; (0537) 74 wood pigeons, kites, rollers the alluvial plain of the Rharb
72 09; open 9am–3:30pm and spotted flycatchers can has been completely trans-
Mon–Fri be seen among the trees. formed by irrigation. It is
now one of Morocco’s most
important agricultural areas.
5 6
Forest of Maâmora Kenitra
7
! D2 ⌂ East of Rabat on ! C2 £ @ Rabat
Thamusida
the N1 to Kenitra or the
Established in 1913 in the
N6 to Meknès ! C2 ⌂ 55 km (34 miles)
early days of the French
northeast of Rabat, 17 km
The Forest of Mamora, Protectorate, from 1933 to
(10.5 miles) northeast of
between Wadi Sebou and 1955 this town was known
Kenitra on the N1 (Kenitra
Wadi Bou Regreg, covers an as Port Lyautey. Nowadays,
North exit)
area 60 km (37 miles) long Kenitra consists of distinct
and 30 km (19 miles) wide. districts: residential areas On the N1, at the milestone
reading “Kenitra 14 km, Sidi
Allal Tazi 28 km”, a track
SEA FISHING heading westwards leads to
The Moroccan coastline this ancient site on Wadi Sebou,
faces both the Atlantic inhabited by the Romans from
and the Mediterranean, the 2nd century BC to the
with access to some of the 3rd century AD.
world’s richest fishing Part of the ancient city walls
grounds. Bringing in the can still be seen, along with
largest catches in the the outline of the Roman
whole of Africa, Morocco’s army camp (with streets
fishing industry employs intersecting at right angles)
some 200,000 people, and the site’s major feature,
with exports worth over the praetorium (headquarters),
$600 million per year. But with columns and pilasters.
modern methods have To the northeast, the remains
not replaced traditional of Roman baths and a temple
ways completely, as with three chambers, or cellae,
small-scale fishing is still can be made out. North of
a way of life for many. Wadi Sebou are the vestiges
of the old harbour docks.
99
The vats in which meat and
8 fish were salted and garum
Lixus was made can be seen dotted
STAY ! D1 ⌂ 5 km (3 miles)
northeast of Larache on
around the edges of the site.
In the amphitheatre, with its
circular arena, public games
Hay Essalam the N1 @ From Larache
took place.
A variety of rooms are This ancient site, which The Acropolis above the
available at this well- commands a view of the town has its own walls; only
located budget hotel, ocean, of Wadi Loukkos and of on the western side, where
some with en suite Larache, is a UNESCO World there is a sheer drop, do they
bathrooms, balconies, Heritage Site. According to coincide with the town walls.
and air-con. Guests can legend, Lixus was the site of An apsidal building, preceded
choose from the many the Garden of the Hesperides, by an atrium with a cistern,
surrounding cafés or
from which Hercules was has been excavated. The
perch on the roof terrace.
tasked with stealing golden Great Temple (1st century BC–
! D1 ⌂ 9 Avenue apples as one of his Twelve 1st century AD), to the south,
Hassan II, Larache Labours. In the 1st century AD, features an arcaded area
§ (0539) 91 68 22 the Roman writer Pliny (courtyard). The cella, where
 described Lixus as the most the god dwelt, on the axis of
ancient Phoenician colony in the peristyle, backs onto an
the western Mediterranean. apsidal wall; opposite is a
La Maison Haute In the 7th century BC the large semicircular apse with a
More a guesthouse than
Phoenicians established a mosaic floor.
a hotel, this quaint little
trading post here, serving as
lodging on the hilltop
a stage on the Gold Route.
affords a glimpse into
After it had been taken by the
the real Morocco, as well
Romans between AD 40 and 9
as panoramic views of
45, Lixus became a centre of M’Soura Stone Circle
Larache. As the name
implies, there are
the manufacture of garum –
! D1 ⌂ El-Utad to Chouahed
plenty of stairs. sauce made with scraps of fish
27 km (17 miles) southeast
marinaded in brine from
! D1 ⌂ Derb Ibn Thami, of Asilah on the N1, then
salting vats and Morocco’s
Larache ∑ lamaison R417 towards Tetouan
major industry in Roman times.
haute.free.fr The Romans abandoned Lixus This Neolithic site is reached
 at the end of the 3rd century via a 7-km (4-mile) track
AD. The wall built around the running from Sidi el-Yamani
city at that time reduced its towards Souk et-Tnine. Perhaps
inhabited area by half. the burial place of an important
local ruler, it consists of around
200 monolithic standing
stones ranging in height from
50 cm (20 inches) to 5 m (16 ft)
and surrounding a large
tumulus (a mound of earth
raised over a burial area).
Unique in the Maghreb and
the Sahara, particularly in
terms of its sheer size, this
monument is reminiscent of
those seen in Spain. The types
of pottery – decorated with
impressions of cardium shells
– and bronze weapons brought
to light by excavations on the
site are also identical to
Spanish examples.
0
Moulay Bousselham
! D1 ⌂ 48 km (30 miles)
south of Larache @ 4 From
Café Milano
Waves crashing against Bab el-Khemis, a brick-built
The small, single-street town the walls of Laqbibat gate roofed with glazed tiles.
of Moulay Bousselham is a Castle in Larache In the fabrics souk – the kissaria
very popular coastal resort (Socco de la Alcaicería) – a
with Moroccans. It has an market offers a wide range of
attractive crescent of beach goods. Narrow streets lined
sheltered by cliffs, although 11 with houses with floral decor-
the currents there can be Larache ation lead down towards the
dangerous. The mosque and harbour. Bab el-Kasba separ-
! D1 @ From Tangier, Rabat
the tomb of the 10th-century ates the southern edge of the
holy man who gives the town Set a little way back from fabrics souk from Rue Moulay
its name tower above the major roads, Larache is both el-Mehdi, a street covered
ocean and the adjacent Merja an Andalusian and an Arab with overhead arches and
Zerga (Blue Lagoon). They are town. The modern part of leading to an octagonal
the focus of one of the largest the town bears obvious signs minaret and a terrace over-
of the region’s religious of the Spanish Protectorate looking the meandering Wadi
festivals, which takes place (1911–56), during which time Loukkos, the salt-marshes and
each July, making Moulay Larache was held by Spain. the Lixus promontory.
Bousselham a major place Established in the 7th On the route to Lixus is the
of pilgrimage and attracting century by Arab conquerors, Château de la Cigogne (Stork’s
many followers. by the 11th century Larache Castle), a fortress that was
Adjoining the lagoon is the was an important centre of built in 1578 by the Saadian
Merja Zerga National Park, a trade on the left bank of Wadi rulers and then remodelled by
large wetland area that draws Loukkos. In the 16th century it the Spanish in the 17th century.
birdwatchers from all over the was used as a base by corsairs It is closed to the public.
world. Boat trips can be organ- from Algiers and Turkey, and It is a pleasant stroll along
ized to see the thousands of was subject to reprisals by the seafront, which has come
birds – rare species of gulls Portuguese forces from Asilah. to be known as the “balcony
and terns, marsh owls, herons, The town passed to Spain in of the Atlantic”. Nearby is the
pink flamingoes, gannets, 1610 and was then taken by Moorish market. The Catholic
sheldrake, marsh harriers and Moulay Ismaïl at the end of Cemetery is where you will
peregrine falcons – that come the 17th century. find the final resting place of
to the lagoon on their migra- The medina is reached from celebrated French writer Jean
tions in December and January. Place de la Libération, a very Genet (1910–86), his grave
The trips depart from the Spanish plaza, and through placed to face the ocean.
small fishing harbour.
According to legend, Lixus was the site of

Ruins of the ancient colony
the Garden of the Hesperides, from which
of Lixus, abandoned by the Hercules was tasked with stealing golden
Romans in the 3rd century AD apples as one of his Twelve Labours.
101
Sun setting over the hilltop town of Larache
South of the forum rises the
capitol, where several altars
stand before the temple’s five
cellae (chambers). In the public
baths, the various rooms for
the Roman ritual of bathing –
robing rooms, a caldarium and
a tepidarium (hot and warm
rooms) with underfloor
heating, and a frigidarium

(cold room) – can easily be
distinguished, along with wall
paintings and a herringbone
brick floor.
A famous document
engraved on bronze was
discovered at Banasa. Known
Intricate ceramic handicrafts on display as the Banasa Table, it was
at the Sunday souk in Ksar el-Kebir an edict by which Caracalla
granted the province relief
from taxes in return for lions,
elephants and other animals
w e that the emperor desired for
Ksar el-Kebir Souk el-Arba du Rharb public spectacles in Rome.
From the N1 or freeway,
! D1 £ Moulay el-Mehdi, 3 ! D2 £ @ Rabat or Tangier
Banasa is reached by taking
km (2 miles) @ From Tangier
A major agricultural centre on the R413, then, 3 km (2 miles)
This sizable country town, the northwest border of the before Souk Tleta du Rharb,
surrounded by extensive olive Rharb region, Souk el-Arba by turning off onto the P4234.
plantations and citrus groves, du Rharb is especially busy on As it approaches the site, the
takes its name from a great Wednesdays, when the weekly road is reduced to a track.
fortress, which, during the market is held. The town’s
Almoravid and Almohad position on the intersection
periods, controlled the road of roads leading to Tangier,
leading to the ports along Rabat, Meknès and the coastal
SHOP
the Straits of Gibraltar. town of Moulay Bousselham
It was at Wadi el-Makhazin has made it a key staging post
nearby that the Battle of the throughout history.
Three Kings took place in Ksar el-Kebir
1578. The conflict has been Sunday Souk
described as the “last crusade Ksar el-Kebir’s bustling
undertaken by the Christians r
sunday souk is well
of the Mediterranean”. It was Banasa worth a visit if you are
instigated by the Saadian passing through. Goods
! D2 ⌂ 103 km (64 miles)
sultan El-Mutawakkil, who, on offer include the
northeast of Rabat on the
having been driven from produce of local market
N1 or Rabat-Tangier free-
Morocco, was zealous for a gardens, as well as that
way (Kenitra North exit)
crusade. In alliance with of the area’s olive plant-
Sebastião I, the king of This ancient town, an inland ations and citrus
Portugal at the time, he made port on Wadi Sebou and the groves, and intricate
a bid to win back his kingdom. most developed in Mauretania ceramic handicrafts. If
Sebastião, Al-Mutawakkil and Tingitana, was a centre of you happen to miss the
their opponent, the Saadian ceramic production from the Sunday souk, there are
sultan Abd el-Malik (who was 3rd century to the 1st century also lively stalls around
victorious over the invaders), BC. A Roman colony from 33 the main kissaria
all died in the battle. Moulay to 25 BC, Banasa was a (covered market) in Bab
Ahmed, brother of Abd el- prosperous and bustling el Oued in the old town.
Malik, succeeded him, becom- commercial town until the ! D1 ⌂ Next to the
ing known not only as Ahmed end of the 3rd century AD. Gare Routière and
el-Mansour (the Victorious) The entrance to the town, Moulay el Mehdi station
but also as Ahmed el-Dhebi through a vaulted gateway,
(the Golden), because of the leads to the basilica and the
ransom that he exacted. paved and arcaded forum.
104
ROMAN MOROCCO
The Roman Empire stretched across North Africa to the Atlantic coast. The region
that encompassed present-day Algeria and northern Morocco was known as the
province of Mauretania Tingitana. By the 4th century, imperial rule disintegrated
due to attacks by East Germanic tribes known as the Vandals. The legacy of
Roman rule in Morocco lives on in sites dotted around northern Morocco.
VOLUBILIS
Originally founded by Berbers, Volubilis ROMAN CITIES
(p198) later became the Roman capital of Mauritania’s cities
Mauretania. It grew rapidly from the 1st were bustling
century with a number of major public centres of trade and
buildings, including a forum, a basilica and a administration, as well
capitol, which served as the city’s religious as garrison towns. As
centre. It is Morocco’s most extensive was the case in Rome,
archaeological site. the focal point of the city was
the forum (a market place and
LIXUS
public area) and the basilica,
Its location at the far reaches of the Roman simultaneously a monetary
Empire led Mauritania to be associated with exchange, law court and
legendary journeys. The colony of Lixus meeting place. The capitol
(p100) was connected to the mythical was the city’s religious centre.
labours of Hercules. Here was said to be the
Garden of the Hesperides, to which Hercules
was dispatched, as his penultimate labour,
to pick golden apples.
THAMUSIDA
North of modern-day Rabat, Thamusida
(p99) was originally a Berber settlement,
later occupied by the Romans during the
reign of Augustus (63 BC–14 AD). Excavations
in the 20th century unearthed the walls of
the docks, as well as baths and a temple.
SALA COLONIA
Visitors to the Islamic-era Chellah Necropolis Ancient ruins of Volubilis,
(p78) can also visit the same site’s Roman-era the Roman capital of
ruins. Excavations here reveal distinctive Mauretania Tingitana
Roman architectural elements, including
a triumphal arch, public square and a
decumanus maximus (main thoroughfare).
Mosaics adorn the floor

of a ruined building at
the site of Volubilis
105
A family sitting in the portico of the Hassan II Mosque
CASABLANCA
In the 7th century, Casablanca was no more than
a small Berber settlement clinging to the slopes
of the Anfa hills. However, for strategic and
commercial reasons, it was already attracting the
attention of foreign powers. In 1468, the town was
sacked by the Portuguese, who wrought wholesale
destruction on the city’s privateer ships. Then,
in the 18th century, with the sultanate of Sidi
Mohammed ben Abdallah, Dar el-Beïda (meaning
“White House” – “Casa Blanca” in Spanish) it
acquired a new significance. This was thanks to its
harbour, which played a pivotal role in the sugar,
tea, wool and corn markets of the Western world.
It was in the 20th century, under the French
Protectorate (p68), that Casablanca underwent
the most profound change. Against expert advice,
Marshal Lyautey, the first resident-governor,
proceeded with plans to make Casablanca the
country’s economic hub. To realize this vision,
he hired the services of town planners and
modernized the port. For almost 40 years, the
most innovative architects worked on this huge
building project. Casablanca continued to expand
even after independence (1956). Futuristic high-
rise buildings and a colossal mosque sending its
laser beams towards Mecca once again expressed
the city’s forward-looking spirit.
107
Hassan IIHassan II
Mosque Mosque
SIDI D SIDI
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HASSAN II MOSQUE
 B1 ⌂ Blvd Sidi Mohammed Ben Abdallah # Daily § (0522) 48 28 89/86
Jutting over the Atlantic ocean on a man-made platform, the awesome

scale and dramatic location of the magnificent Hassan II Mosque are
EXPERIENCE Casablanca
sure to impress anyone who visits, but get a little closer and you’ll soon
find that, as is typical of the Moorish style, the magic is in the detail.
With a minaret that soars 200 m (656 ft) into the sky, the Hassan II Mosque
is said to be the tallest religious building in the world. It beautifully blends
traditional Moorish architecture with 20th-century innovation, from the lasers
that shine east towards Mecca to the sliding roof and the glass floor through
which the Atlantic Ocean is visible below. It is possible to visit the mosque as
part of a guided tour, of which there are several a day delivered in a number
of languages. The highlight is the vast prayer hall, with its columns the size of
giant redwood trees. Every surface is covered with exquisite decoration, from
patterned marble floors and intricate tiling to carved wooden ceilings.
Rising dramatically above

the Atlantic Ocean, the
minaret is 25 m (82 ft) wide
and 200 m (656 ft) high.
Decorative marble interior,

featuring carved stucco
and zellij tilework (inset)
Covering the columns of the

prayer hall and doorways,
marble is ubiquitous.
The minbar, or pulpit, located at the western

end of the prayer hall, is particularly ornate.
It is decorated with verses from the Qur’an.
110
Must See
The imposing minaret, as viewed from the

Above two mezzanines and hidden surrounding porticos, towers over the square
from view, the Women’s Gallery
extends over 5,300 sq m (57,000 sq ft)
and can hold up to 5,000 worshippers.
The cedar-panelled interior of the dome
over the prayer hall glistens with carved
and painted decoration.
The Royal Door is

decorated with traditional
motifs engraved on brass
and titanium.
Columns
Seen from the exterior, these

are double doors in the shape
of pointed arches framed by
columns. Many are clad in
incised bronze.
Mashrabiyy screenwork at the

windows protects those within
from prying eyes.
The stairway to the Women’s

Gallery features decorative
Hammam woodcarving, multiple arches and
marble, granite and onyx columns.
35,000
Able to hold 25,000
The number of
faithful, the prayer hall
craftsmen that worked
measures 200 m (656 ft) Cutaway illustration
by 100 m (328 ft). The tirelessly to complete
detailing the interior of this ambitious
central part of the roof
the Hassan II Mosque building project.
can be opened to the sky.
111
EXPERIENCE MORE
renamed. Beneath the arcades
2 of 1930s’ apartment blocks are INSIDER TIP
Avenue des Forces rows of brasserie terraces and Eating Straight
Armées Royales souvenir shops. In the north- from the Sea
east corner of the square, the At lunchtime a cluster
 D3 ⌂ South of the old

original clocktower was built of cafés at the Marché
medina, running between
in 1910, demolished in 1940 Central serve grilled
Place Oued el-Makhazine
and then rebuilt in 1992 to an fish fresh from the port,
and Place Zellaga
identical design. At the time a stone’s throw away.
Lined with high-rise buildings, that it was erected, the clock Alternatively, buy your
major hotels such as the symbolized colonial rule, fish in the market and
Sheraton, airline offices and indicating to the population take it to one of the
travel agents, and towering, that it should now keep in stalls to have it cooked.
futuristic glass structures, this time with an industrial society.
avenue marks the boundary At the Hyatt Regency Hotel,
of the commercial district. pictures of Humphrey Bogart
Further development is and Ingrid Bergman, stars of 4
planned for its continuation the famous film Casablanca Boulevard
towards the Hassan II Mosque. (1942), hang on the walls. In Mohammed V
the southeast corner of the
 E3 ⌂ Running from Place
square is the Excelsior Hotel,
des Nations Unies to
embellished with Moorish
3 friezes and balconies, which
Boulevard Hassan Seghir
Place des was the first of Morocco’s Art Running through the city like
Nations Unies Deco hotels and is one of the a spine, this boulevard links
square’s finest buildings. In Place des Nations Unies with
 D3 ⌂ South of the old
1934, the 11-storey Moretti the railway station in the east
medina
Milone apartment block, at of the city. When it was built
At the beginning of the 20th the corner of Boulevard in 1915, it was intended to
century, this was still no more Houphouët Boigny, became be the major artery through
than a market square, a place the first high-rise building in the commercial heart of
that, by evening, would central Casablanca. The Casablanca. On both sides,
become the haunt of story- boulevard, lined with shops covered arcades house shops
tellers and snake charmers. and restaurants, runs from and restaurants.
Today, it is the heart of the the square to the port. At the A raised strip sections off
new town, a hub where major end, on the right, the marabout traffic and widens into a square
thoroughfares converge. of Sidi Belyout, patron saint level with the Central Market.
When the square was laid and protector of Casablanca, The high-rise buildings here are
out in 1920, it was known as stands in stark contrast to the notable for their façades, which
Place de France, but was later neighbouring buildings. feature loggias, columns, zellij
tilework and geometric
carvings. Particular to the
buildings of this period is the
mixture of styles: Art Deco,
seen in the white façades of
simple design (p114), and the
typically Moroccan decorative
style. Among the finest of
these buildings are three
residential blocks: the Glaoui,
on the corner of Rue el-
Amraoui Brahim; the
Bessonneau, opposite the
The Zevaco Dome and

clocktower of the old medina
in Place des Nations Unies
112
Visitors relaxing in the
tropical gardens of Place
Mohammed V
busy market; and the Asayag green tiles, contrasts with the
building, on the corner of 5 horizontal lines of the arcaded
Boulevard Hassan Seghir. Place Mohammed V gallery, which are emphasized
Another particular feature by a carved frieze running the
 D3 ⌂ North of the Parc
of Boulevard Mohammed V is length of the building.
de la Ligue Arabe
its covered arcades, which are Two buildings set slightly
similar to the shopping arcades The administrative heart of back abut the façade of the
built during the same period the city, Place Mohammed V law courts on either side. On
(the 1920s) along the Champs- exemplifies the architecture the right is the Consulat de
Élysées in Paris. Among the of the Protectorate, combining France, whose immaculate
most interesting of these French monumentality with gardens contain an equestrian
arcades is the Passage du Moorish sobriety. statue of Marshal Lyautey,
Glaoui, which links Boulevard The Préfecture, overlooked which stood in the centre of
Mohammed V to Rue Allal by a Tuscan-style campanile the square until Moroccan
ben-Abdallah. Lit by prismatic (bell tower), stands on the independence. On the left, in
lamps, the arcade is punctu- southeastern side of the the northeastern corner, is the
ated by glass rotundas. square. Its buildings are set Cercle Militaire. To the north is
Passage Sumica, opposite around three courtyards, each the post office, fronted by an
Passage du Glaoui, is closer to with a tropical garden. The open arcade decorated with
the Art Deco style. This runs central stairway is framed by zellij tilework and semicircular
through to Rue du Prince two huge paintings by Jacques arches; this leads through to
Moulay Abdallah, which also Majorelle (p243) depicting the an Art Deco central hall within.
contains some notable 1930s’ festivities of a moussem and Opposite, along Rue de Paris,
apartment blocks. This pedes- a performance of the ahwach, an area of greenery gives a
trianized street, lined with a Berber dance. more picturesque feel to the
boutiques and eateries, is Behind the Préfecture square and provides a popular
very popular with shoppers. stands the Palais de Justice spot for a stroll. At certain
In Rue Mohammed el-Quori, (law courts). The strong times of day, the monumental
off Boulevard Mohammed V, verticality of the Moorish fountain at the centre plays
stands the Rialto, a renovated doorway, with its awning of music and has light displays.
cinema renowned for its fine
ornamentation, stained-glass
windows and Art Deco lighting. Place Mohammed V exemplifies the
Central Market
architecture of the Protectorate,
⌂ Boulevard Mohammed V combining French monumentality
# 7am–2pm daily with Moorish sobriety.
113
CASABLANCA’S MAURESQUE ARCHITECTURE
In 1907, innovative architects set to work to create buildings in a range
of contemporary styles, and Casablanca began to look like a huge
building site. By the early 1920s, numerous teams of architects were
working in the city. Whatever the style, avant-garde tendencies were
often counterbalanced by a traditional Moroccan style.
As the architects drew on the repertoire of Art

Nouveau, Art Deco and Neo-Classicism, which were Domed bell chambers
straddle the Sacré-
fashionable at the time, they also took inspiration from
Coeur’s arched entrance
the Moorish style that Europeans found so fascinating.
Towards the end of the 1920s and into the early 1930s,
a new taste for simplicity became apparent.
Emphasizing shape and outline at the expense of
decoration, this gave prominence to the interplay
of convex and concave shapes, and to balconies and
bow windows. Another significant driving force was
the expectations of the colonial population and
European speculators, resulting in lifts, bathrooms,
kitchens and parking areas becoming commonplace.
Street art adorns the

façade of this former
slaughterhouse
Architectural Highlights
Fabrique Culturelle Église du Sacré-Coeur

des Anciens Abattoirs ▲ Casablanca’s most well known landmark
▲ One of the largest employers in the after the Hassan II Mosque, its city centre
working-class neighbourhood of Hay cathedral is a striking fusion of Neo-Gothic
Mohammadi was the slaughterhouse. and Art Deco, with local Moroccan elements.
It closed in 2000 and since then this It was designed by Marseille architect Paul
surprisingly grand building on Avenue Jaafar Tournon and took a quarter of a century to
Barmaki, with a wonderfully ornate Art Deco build. After independence in 1956, it was no
gateway-like entrance has been renovated. longer used as a church and is now an arts
It now operates as a fabrique culturelle, or centre (p116).
culture factory, offering work and exhibition
spaces for local artists.
114
The lavish
interior of
the Art-Deco
Lynx Cinema,
Casablanca
Did You Know?

A campaign to protect
the city’s architecture
and name it a UNESCO
World Heritage Site is
underway.
Semicircular arches
and traditional Moorish
stucco on the exterior of
the Grande Poste
Grande Poste Cinema Rialto

▲ This is no ordinary post office. The Grande ▲ Looking like it belongs on Miami’s South
Poste on Place Mohammed V was built in the Beach, the Rialto Cinema on Rue Mohammed
early 1900s during the French protectorate. El Quorri is perhaps Casablanca’s most
This highly decorative building, which strikingly Art-Deco edifice. It was built in
features mosaics, a loggia of semicircular 1930 and as well as screening movies it has
arches and intricate zellij tilework, could hosted musical stars including Edith Piaf and
easily be mistaken for an important cultural Josephine Baker, who showed up to entertain
monument. While the outside is impressive, American troops in 1943. It has been
the original Art-Deco interiors are also worth renovated numerous times over the years
a look. The building still functions as the main and is still showing films.
post office in Casablanca.
115
There is a small permanent
exhibition of Moroccan art
from the second half of the
20th century, supplemented
by regularly changing temp
orary exhibitions of both
Moroccan and international
artists. The institution is
operated by the nonprofit
Fondation ONA, one of the

country's primary cultural
foundations, whose major
shareholders are the Moroccan
royal family. It is easy to find:
look for the dual towers of the
Casablanca Twin Centre, and
the villa is just to the east,
across the road.
EAT
The nave of the Église du Sacré-Cœur, formerly La Sqala
a Catholic church and now a cultural centre Terrace dining within a
stunning saffron-
stuccoed 18th-century
Moroccan carpets. They are fortress overlooking
6 the work of G. Loire, a master the marina. No alcohol
Parc de la Ligue Arabe craftsman from Chartres. To is served.
the southwest is the Villa des  D2 ⌂ Boulevard des
 D4 ⌂ South of Place
Arts, displaying contemporary Almohades ∑ sqala.ma
Mohammed V (between
Moroccan paintings.
Boulevard Rachidi and 
Boulevard Mohammed
Église du Sacré-Cœur
Zerktouni)
⌂ Rond-point de l’Europe Taverne du Dauphin
This huge garden incorporates # Only for concerts and other A Casablanca
café terraces and is a good cultural events institution that has
spot to get some air. Avenues been serving excellent
lined with impressively tall seafood since the 1950s.
palm trees, ficus, arcades and  E2 ⌂ 15 Boulevard
pergolas frame some stunning 7 Houphouët Boigny
formal flowerbeds. The streets Villa des Arts ∑ taverne-du-dauphin.
surrounding the park, includ com
 C4 ⌂ 30 Boulevard
ing Boulevard MoulayYoussef, 
Brahim Roudani, near Parc
Rue d’Alger and Rue du Parc
de la Ligue Arabe # 9am–
contain Art Nouveau and
7pm Tue–Sun ∑ fondation Le Cabestan
Art Deco houses.
ona.com The food and view at
Northwest of the park
this chic Mediterranean
stands the Église du Sacré- Another of Casablanca’s
restaurant have been
Cœur. A white concrete twin elegant Art Deco buildings
wowing visitors for
towered building with an Art that has been put to good decades. Cocktail
Deco flavour to its façade, it is use, this 1934 villa is now a lounge and bar on site.
now deconsecrated and used serene centre for the arts.
 E1 ⌂ 90 Boulevard de
for cultural events. It is approached through a
la Corniche, El-Hank
To the southeast stands sculpture garden with lush
∑ le-cabestan.com
the Église NotreDamede green lawns, giant palm trees
Lourdes. Its stainedglass and a central fountain feature. 
windows depict scenes from Inside, it has two floors of
the life of the Virgin Mary coolly minimal galleries
against motifs taken from showcasing modern art.
116
itself had no more than a few
8 thousand inhabitants. The
Abderrahman Slaoui walls around the old town
Foundation Museum were originally pierced by four
gates, though only two of
 D3 ⌂ 12 Rue du Parc,
them survive today. Bab
close to the Cathédrale
Marrakech and Bab elJedid,
Sacré-Coeur # 10am–6pm
on the western side, face onto
Tue–Sat ∑ musee-as.ma
Boulevard Tahar elAlaoui. A
Abderrahman Slaoui (1919– daily market, with jewellers,
2001) was a businessman, barbers, public letterwriters
traveller and patron of the and so on, stretches out along
arts. The museum that bears the length of the walls.
his name occupies a charming Jewellery and Koran box Opposite the fishing harbour
1940s' Art Deco house, located at the Abderrahman is the sqala, a fortified bastion
at the heart of downtown. Over Slaoui Museum built in the 18th century and
multiple floors, it displays his one of the few remaining
collection of Orientalist posters, tokens of the reign of Sidi
jewellery and assorted deco Temporary exhibitions Mohammed ben Abdallah, who
rative items. This unique and complement the musuem's built much of the old medina.
personal amassing of dazzling permanent Behind the bastion, a marabout
frequently dazzling and often collection. There is also a (shrine) with a double crown
curious items includes many stylish topfloor tearoom. of merlons contains the Tomb
beautiful vintage advertising of Sidi Allal elKairouani, who
and travel posters, a number of became Casablanca’s first
which were designed by French patron saint in 1350. Bab el
artist Jacques Majorelle, whose 9 Marsa (Gate of the Sea), which
former home and garden can Old Medina opens onto Boulevard des
be visited in Marrakech (p242). Almohades, also dates from
 D2 ⌂ Between
Other displays present illumi the 18th century. It was at this
Boulevard des Almohades
nated Korans and manuscripts, spot that the French disem
and Place des Nations Unies
ceramics from Fès, lustrous barked in July 1907 to restore
coloured glassware, exquisite At the beginning of the 20th order to a rioting city, catalys
Berber jewellery and even fish century, Casablanca consisted ing the process of French
made of segmented copper. only of the old medina, which colonial rule in the region.
A trader selling teapots and

other accessories at the daily
market in the old medina
117
town planners laid out a new planning and public health
10 medina (Nouvelle Medina). regulations. It contains public
Quartier Habous Land to the south of the exist areas, such as a market, shops,
(New Medina) ing city centre earmarked for mosques, a kissaria and baths,
this development was given as well as private dwellings
 F5 ⌂ Southeast of
over to the Habous, the (arranged around a courtyard
the city centre, near
administration of religious separated from the street by
Boulevard Victor Hugo
foundations, hence the new a solid wall).
In the 1930s, in order to town’s name. The new medina is another
address the problem of an This new town – which did facet of colonial town planning
expanding urban population not, however, forestall the during the Protectorate, and
and to prevent Casablanca’s later development of shanty its flowerfilled, arcaded streets
underprivileged citizens from towns – was built in the trad offer the opportunity for an
being forced to settle in itional Arab style at the same amble through an especially
insalubrious quarters, French time as obeying modern town scenic quarter of the city.
While the most modest
houses are located around
MYTHS AND MOVIES the market, the finest are set
The much-loved film
around the mosque.
Casablanca (1942), which
Northeast of the medina
was entirely shot on a are the copper and brass Souk
studio lot in Hollywood, and Chez Bennis, Casablanca’s
has little to do with its most famous patisserie, which
namesake. Not even the sells pastries known as cornes
American writers of the de gazelle (gazelle’s horns),
play on which it was fritters and pastilla. There are
based, Everybody Comes also shops specializing in
to Rick’s, visited Morocco. curios and collectors’ items,
The city now has a bar and they can be good places
named after the epony- to find Art Deco objects. A
mous club: Rick’s Café wide range of Moroccan rugs
(right), on Boulevard Sour and carpets is also on sale at
Jedid. As in the film, it is the weekly auction in the
American owned, it does carpet souk.
have a resident pianist, Northwest of the Quartier
and yes, he does play the Habous is the Mahakma du
iconic “As Time Goes By.” Pacha, a formal tribunal and
today one of the city’s eight
118
A visitor capturing the richly
decorated walls and arches
STAY
of the Mahkama du Pacha
Royal Palace Riad Jnane

⌂ Between Boulevard Victor Sherazade
Hugo and Rue Ahmed el- This tranquil villa, set in
Figuigui ¢ To the public lovely gardens, offers
modern comforts and a
traditional hammam
11
 E5 ⌂ 8 Rue de
Belgrade, Habous
Port § (0522) 82 44 44
 D2 ⌂ East of the 

old medina
Casablanca is Morocco’s Hyatt Regency

main port. Built during the The city’s landmark
Protectorate, it is one of the hotel with the most
largest artificial ports in the central location and
world. A groyne protects it superb five-star
from the pounding of the facilities, including
three restaurants.
ocean that destroyed several
earlier constructions. The  D3 ⌂ Place des
Nations Unies
1755
port is equipped with ultra
modern commercial, fishing ∑ hyatt.com
and leisure facilities. 
Access to the port complex
The year Casablanca
is via the fishing harbour. On
was hit by the Lisbon Le Doge Hotel & Spa
the seafront in the port itself,
earthquake, followed Stylish boutique hotel
as well as along the avenue in a 1930s townhouse.
by a powerful
leading down to it, some Guests have free access
tsunami.
excellent seafood restaurants to the hammam, sauna
are to be found. and hot tub.
A multimilliondirham
 D3 ⌂ 9 Rue du
préfectures (administrative development of towering
Doctor Veyre
headquarters). The building, hotels, restaurants, shops, ∑ hotelledoge.com
which centres around a tall offices and apartments,
tower and two courtyards, is a together with a marina, 
fine example of the adaptation is changing the shoreline
of traditional Arab architec between the port and the
ture to modern needs. The Hassan II Mosque.
traditional Arabic decoration
of its 64 rooms is the work of
Moroccan craftsmen: it consists
of carved stucco and zellij
tilework on the walls, carved
cedarwood panels on the
ceiling and wrought iron on
the doors.
The elegant Royal Palace,
on the fringes of the Quartier
Habous and set in extensive
gardens, was built in the
1920s by the Pertuzio
brothers, whose aim was to
create a luxuriously appointed
yet modern dwelling.
Mahakma du Pacha The Royal Palace in Casablanca, surrounded

⌂ Boulevard Victor Hugo by beautiful Mediterranean-style gardens
119
At the foot of the hill of Anfa,

12 near the Palais Ibn Séoud, the
Corniche d’Aïn Diab foundation of the same name
DRINK
houses a mosque and one of
 X9 ⌂ West of the Mosque
the most comprehensive
of Hassan II
libraries on the continent.
Petit Pouchet The Corniche d’Aïn Diab has At the western end of the
Faded French-style bar- been an upmarket part of Corniche, 3 km (2 miles)
café once frequented by Casablanca since the 1920s. further on, the Marabout of
Edith Piaf and Antoine Running from ElHank Sidi Abderrahman, perched
de Saint- Exupéry. Lighthouse in the east, to the on a rock, is accessible only
 E3 ⌂ Cnr Boulevard Marabout of Sidi Abderrahman at low tide. It attracts many
Mohamed V & Rue in the west, this coastal avenue Muslim pilgrims in search of
Mohamed el-Qory is lined with a succession of a cure for nervous disorders.
 tidal swimming pools, hotels,
restaurants, fashionable
nightclubs and an institute
Sky 28 of thalassotherapy (a type of 13
This opulent rooftop bar treatment involving seawater, Anfa
with fabulous views mud, algae and seaweed).
over the city serves  C5 ⌂ Northwest of
The earliest establishments
great cocktails and the city
to be built here – with the
hosts live music and DJs.
needs of a wealthy clientèle Occupying a hill that over
 B4 ⌂ Kenzi Tower in mind – opened in the looks Casablanca from the
Hotel, Boulevard 1930s. A string of public beach northwest, Anfa is a residen
Mohamed Zerktouni clubs, each one rivalling its tial quarter with wide avenues
§ (0522) 97 80 00
neighbour, lines the Corniche, lined with floral decorations,
 offering a variety of pools and where luxurious homes with
restaurants. The most modern terraces, swimming pools and
and fashionable of them all is lush gardens bring to mind
the Tahiti Beach Club. Beverly Hills in California.
120
A visit to the kasbah and the
The Marabout of Sidi fish market can be followed
Abderrahman, at the of by a stroll along the seafront.
the Corniche d’Aïn Diab From the port, the clifftop
walk offers fine views of the
sea and Mohammedia.
14
Casablanca
Twin Center 16
Musée du Judaïsme
 B4 ⌂ At the intersection
Marocain
of Boulevard Zerktouni and
Boulevard el-Massira  E2 ⌂ 81 Rue Chasseur
Jules Gros, Quartier de
Dominated by its two soaring
l’Oasis # 10am–5pm Mon–
skyscrapers, the East Tower
Fri (summer: to 6pm), 11am–
and West Tower, this extensive
3pm Sun ∑ jewishmuseum
complex is both proof and a
casa.com
symbol of the city’s economic
importance. Located at an The modernized Museum of
intersection leading to the Moroccan Judaism, the only
main residential districts, one of its kind in the Arab
these twin structures are the world, contains displays of
tallest buildings in Morocco scarves, kaftans, prayer
and comprise numerous shawls and other religious
offices and shopping malls as objects, and a reconstructed
well as a hotel. By its outward Moroccan synagogue.
appearance no less than in From Roman times up to
its infrastructure, and by its independence in 1956, Morocco
proximity to some of the had a sizeable Jewish commu
city’s greatest landmarks, nity. Today numbering some
the complex is a statement 5,000, Morocco’s Jews occupy
Since the 1930s, villas have on the role that Casablanca prominent positions in the
been built here, and they plays on both the national spheres of politics, economics
constitute a catalogue of and international stages. and culture.
successive architectural
styles and evolving fashions.
It was at the Hôtel d’Anfa,
now demolished, that the 15
historic meeting between US Mohammedia
president Franklin D. Roosevelt
 F1 ⌂ 28 km (17 miles)
and British prime minister
northeast of Casablanca
Winston Churchill took place
£@
in January 1943, during World
War II, at which the date of the At the beginning of the 20th
Allied landings in Normandy century, Mohammedia (former
was decided. Although they ly Fedala) was no more than
got wind of the meeting, the a kasbah. This changed in the
Germans were misled by the 1930s, when its port began
literal translation of the word to receive oil tankers. Today,
“Casablanca”. Under the petroleum accounts for 16 per
impression that the location cent of all Moroccan port
was to be the White House in traffic. Although the flaming
Washington, they failed to chimneys of the refineries
prevent it from going ahead. blight the landscape, this large
During the meeting, town, now part of greater
President Roosevelt also Casablanca, is still residential.
formally pledged his support It has a golf course and a
to Sultan Mohammed V in his yacht club. Its fine beaches
aim to obtain independence and friendly atmosphere have
from France, thus opening helped to turn Mohammedia The Casablanca Twin
new avenues for Morocco in into an upmarket coastal Center towers facing a
the postwar period. resort for wealthy Moroccans. busy intersection
121
Blue fishing boats moored in the port of Essaouira
SOUTHERN
ATLANTIC COAST
Morocco’s Southern Atlantic coastal area
contains many smaller towns and resorts, which
are especially attractive to those who wish to
escape the frenetic activity of the imperial cities.
This region, more than almost any other part
of Morocco, has always had contact with the
outside world. The Phoenicians, then the Romans,
established trading posts here. The Portuguese and
the Spanish built military strongholds and centres
of trade along the coast, whose topography also
made it a haven for pirates. Fortified towns such as
El-Jadida, Safi and, most especially, Essaouira bear
witness to the Spanish and Portuguese contribution
to Morocco’s history. Under the French Protectorate
(p68), the region became the country’s economic
and administrative centre. Today, this stretch of
coastline is very industrial and visibly oriented
towards the modern world.
The coastal road to Essaouira passes stunningly
beautiful deserted beaches that are ideal for
surfing. It winds on to Agadir, Morocco’s most
popular coastal destination.
123
EL-JADIDA
EL-JADIDA
MOULAY
MOULAY ABDALLAH
ABDALLAH
Sidi SmaïlSidi Smaïl

OUALIDIA
OUALIDIA
A t l Aa tn l tai nc t i c
h
la
la
Sidi Si
ä
O c eOac ne a n Bennour Benno
k
k
k
Tlete bouTlete
Arizzbou Arizz
u
D
D
Cap Beddouza
Cap Beddouza
Sidi Sidi Arba- Arba-

Aïssa Aïssa Amrane Amrane
SAFI SAFI
Youssoufia
Youssoufia
Tleta-de-Sidi-
Tleta-de-Sidi-
BouguedraBouguedra
Sebt-des-Sebt-des-
Gzoula Gzoula
Chemaïa Chemaï
Tnine Rhiate
Tnine Rhiate
KASBAH
KASBAH
HAMIDOUCH
HAMIDOUCH
Tleta-lrhoud
Tleta-lrhoud El-Arba El-Arba
Talmest Talmest
N
IO IO
G G
RE RE
Moulay Moulay A A s iuf te d T e n s
O u e d Te n O
D M A D M Sidi-
Bouzerktoun
Bouzerktoun
H IA H I Sidi-
C
Ha Dra Ha Dra C Mokhtar Mokhtar
Taflecht Taflecht Chichaoua Chichaoua
ESSAOUIRA
ESSAOUIRA Ounara Ounara
Essaouira Mogador
Essaouira Mogador
Airport Airport
Cap Sim Cap Sim z z
a ou a ou
SIDI KAOUKI
SIDI KAOUKI Dar-Caïd-Dar-Caïd- -H -H
Zemzem Zemzem Al Al
Bouaboute
Bouaboute
Smimou Smimou
Imintanoute
Imintanoute
a a
Cap Tafelney
Cap Tafelney H a h H a h
TAMANAR
TAMANAR Sebt-des-Sebt-des-
Ait-DaoudAit-Daoud
Khemis- Khemis-
Igui-Nilieud
Igui-Nilieud
ArhbalouArhbalou
Djebel Touchka
Djebel Touchka
TAMRI TAMRI 1,690 m 1,690 m
(5,544 ft) (5,544 ft)
SOUTHERN
SOUTHERN
MOROCCO
MOROCCO
Taghazoute Imouzzer Ida
Taghazoute Imouzzer Ida
Ou TananeOu Tanane
AND WESTERN
AND WESTERN
SAHARA
SAHARA
p298 p298
Agadir Agadir Taroudant

Taroudant
Agadir International
Agadir International
Ait Melloul
Ait Melloul
Airport Airport
0 kilometres
0 kilometres
35 35 N N
CasablancaCasablanca
Dar Bouazza
Dar Bouazza Tit Mellil Airport
Tit Mellil Airport
Casablanca
Casablanca
Sidi Boubeker
Sidi Boubeker
Bir-Jdid Bir-Jdid
LighthouseLighthouse
ia
ia
ou
ou
A SOUTHERN
SOUTHERN
AZEMMOUR
AZEMMOUR BerrechidBerrechid
a
ATLANTIC
ATLANTIC
a
h
h
COAST COAST
C
Wa
Wa
Souk-Khemls-
Souk-Khemls-
di
di
des-Gdana
des-Gdana
Ou
Ou
me
me
SETTATSETTAT
r-Rb
r-R
bia
Oulad-Saïd
Oulad-Saïd
ia
Boulaouane
Boulaouane MIDDLE
MIDDLE
KASBAH
KASBAH
BOULAOUANE
BOULAOUANE ATLASATLAS
p212 p212
Arba-Aounate
Arba-Aounate
idi
our Mechra- Mechra-
BenâbbouBenâbbou
El BoroujEl Borouj
Skhour-des-
Skhour-des-
RehamnaRehamna
Ben Guerir
Ben Guerir
B a h i Br aa h i r a HIGH HIGH
ATLASATLAS
p260 p260
ïaEj-Jemâa Ej-Jemâa
Sidi-Bou-Sidi-Bou-
J b i l J e bt i l e Othmane
t Othmane
a
sift
MARRAKECH
MARRAKECH
p230 p230
Marrakech
MarrakechMarrakech Marrakech
Menara Menara
Airport Airport
SOUTHERN
Ou
Ou
ATLANTIC COAST
rik
rik
aV
aV
alley
alley
Must Sees
1 Essaouira
Moulay Moulay 2 El-Jadida
Brahim Brahim
Experience More
3 Sidi Kaouki
4 Settat
5 Kasbah Boulaouane
6 Azemmour
7 Moulay Abdallah
Aoulouz Aoulouz 8 Oualidia
9 Safi
TaliouineTaliouine
10 Kasbah Hamidouch
11 Chiadma Region
12 Tamanar
13 Tamri
EXPERIENCE Southern Atlantic Coast
A cluster of fishing boats

floating beneath one of
Essaouira’s sea bastions
here contains the tomb of a

1 marabout (holy man) who,
ESSAOUIRA
according to legend, had the
power to cure infertile women.
An annual pilgrimage, with
! B4 k Essaouira-Mogador @ 1 km (0.5 miles) northeast
many devotees, takes place
of the medina; link to Marrakech coach station (departure
here in midAugust.
opposite the Hôtel des Îles) n Rue du Caire, (0524) 78 35 32
Essaouira, formerly Mogador, is a quintessentially

Moroccan town and one of the most enchanting places
in the country. It enjoys a pleasant climate and, although
it is a mecca for artists and surfers, it has managed to EAT
escape the overspill of mass tourism from Marrakech. Chalet de la Plage
A shack-like restaurant
In the 7th century BC, the as the Îles Purpuraires, visible and local institution
Phoenicians founded a base from the coast, there is a bird with an open terrace
where Essaouira now stands, sanctuary for gulls and threat overlooking the beach.
and in the 1st century BC, ened species. Phoenician, The menu is, of course,
Juba II, founder of the Roman Attic and Ionian amphorae dominated by fish.
city of Volubilis (p198), made found on the Île de Mogador, ⌂ 1 Av Mohammed V
it a centre of the manufacture and now displayed in the ∑ lechaletdelaplage.com
of purple dye. The Portuguese Musée de l’Histoire et des 
established a trading and Civilisations in Rabat (p86),
military bridgehead here in prove that were traders here
the 15th century and named from the 7th century BC. In the Taros
it Mogador. The town itself, 1st century BC, Juba II set up a A much-loved café, bar
however, was not built until centre for the production of and cultural venue.
Choose between the
around 1760, when Sultan purple dye, from which the
book-lined first-floor
Mohammed III set up a naval islands take their name. Highly
salon or a roof terrace
base here. The town, the prized by the Romans, the dye
with ocean views.
harbour and the fortifications was obtained from the murex,
were designed and built in the a type of mollusc. The ruins of ⌂ Pl M. Hassan, Medina
style of European fortresses a 19thcentury prison are also § (0524) 47 64 07
by renowned French architect visible. Some 12 km (7.5 miles) 
Théodore Cornut, who had south of Essaouira, the beach
worked for Louis XV. On the at Sidi Kaouki (p132) is popular
small group of lslands known with surfers. A mausoleum,
126
Must See
1 2
Ramparts Sqalas
The outer walls on the seafront, Essaouira boasts two sqalas 3
which have bevelled crenella (sea bastions): Sqala du Port in Port
tions, were designed to protect the south and Sqala de la Ville The Porte de la Marine, leading
the town from naval attacks in the northwest. The latter is to the docks, is crowned by a
and thus betray influences lined with Spanish cannons classical triangular pediment
from European fortifications. and was built by Théodore and is dominated by two
By contrast, the inner walls, Cornut on the site of Castello imposing towers flanked by
which have square crenella Real, a castle constructed by four turrets. From the 18th
tions like those found around the Portuguese in about 1505. century, 40 per cent of Atlantic
Marrakech, are more Islamic in The esplanade, where scenes sea traffic passed through
style. These are built in stone from Orson Welles’ film Othello Essaouira. It became known
and roughcast with a facing of were shot in 1949, commands as the Port of Timbuctu, being
earth. The walls surrounding dramatic views of the ocean the destination of caravans
the medina are pierced by and the Îles Purpuraires across from subSaharan Africa bring
Bab Doukkala on the north the bay. A passage leads from ing goods for export to Europe.
eastern side, Bab Marrakech the bastion to the former Once one of Morocco’s largest
on the eastern side and Bab munitions stores, which now sardine ports, it now provides
Sebaa on the southern side. house marquetry workshops. a living for only 500 or so
families. But it still has its
traditional shipyard, where
The esplanade, where scenes from Orson seagoing vessels are made by
hand out of wood. Visitors can
Welles’ film Othello were shot in 1949, also watch the fish auction
commands dramatic views of the ocean and sample grilled sardines
and the Îles Purpuraires across the bay. fresh from the day’s catch.
Bus Station
300 m
LAH
MEL (330 yds)
EL
Ramparts RUE
Bab
UW A IT Doukkala
DE K I
North RUE Former N
AV
Bastion Mellah OU
EN
RU
E AH KT
E ER
UE
EN
OU LL RU D Z
UN
AH
B LV D
JD A
LA
A
BD E
U
LL
TO
A M
DO
E M
A
RU N A
BE OH
AI
KASBAH
AL
MOUL
S K A LA
CH
M
ED
KH
Sqala de la Ville Souk

RU E CH
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AM Jdid
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D E LA
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PLACE
IB
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BA N
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TI
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Musée Sidi
OU
AT
DI H
DE
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Mohammed
OH
ben Abdallah UE
EF
AM
E N Grand Medina
AV
M
Taros
ED
PLACE Mosque
MOULAY PLACE
EL
HASSAN RU
CHEFCHAOUNI E L’Heure
QU
D’
A AG Blue
Villa Maroc FI A
OR
PLACE
NA
AD
IR CH
BAB MARRAKECH AI
I
PLACE I BN L A
MOULAY BA Bab L AL
HASSAN OK Bab Sebaa Marrakech UE
E Galerie EN
AV Damgaard AV AV
AV
South E
DE
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Bastion
DU
PLACE I ’H
Seafood ORSON WELLES OS
CA
Sqala du Port Grill Stalls P

IR
BOULE HA ITA
AIC
E
VA L
LLA
RU
Marine R LA
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Gate Chalet de la Plage N
E L
AV E Notre-Dame
AV
EN
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Port
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0 metres 250 N Essaouira

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Beach
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0 yards 250
127
hold an important economic
4 position in the town, and Jewish
Medina
The layout of Essaouira is
jewellers were renowned. The
town’s former mellah is no
Did You Know?
unusual. As with elsewhere in longer inhabited by Jews, but Essaouira has an
Morocco, the medina is a laby the former houses of Jewish “Orson Welles Square”
rinth of narrow passages; the businessmen can still be seen honouring the time the
town itself, by contrast, has on Rue Darb Laalouj; they are director spent here
straight, wide streets laid out now converted into shops. In filming Othello.
at right angles and cut by gate contrast to Muslim houses,

ways. The Grand Mosque is they are fronted by balconies
situated in the heart of the opening onto the street and
medina. Further north, Souk some have lintels inscribed By tracing the wadi upstream,
Jdid is divided into four by the in Hebrew. Rue Mohammed after a tumbledown bridge,
intersection of two thorough Zerktouni, the main street in you reach the village of Diabet.
fares: there is a daily souk for the quarter, has a lively market. It is also accessible via the
fish, spices and grains, and a Leaving by Bab Doukkala, you road to Agadir, turning off to
souk for secondhand items and will pass the austere Jewish the right after 7 km (4 miles).
collectables, known as joutia. cemetery, which is worth a Of interest here are the ruins
visit. (Keys are available on of Dar Soltane Mahdounia, a
request from the caretaker.) palace built by Sidi Mohammed
ben Abdallah in the late 18th
5 century, now almost entirely
Former Mellah engulfed in sand. A common
6 belief (happily perpetutated
⌂ From Bab Doukkala, via
Essaouira Beach by locals) is that It inspired
Rue Mohammed Zerktouni
Essaouira’s beach, south of Jimi Hendrix (who visited
Having risen to prominence the town centre, is known as Diabet in 1969) to write the
and prosperity in the 18th and one of the finest in Morocco. song “Castles in the Sand”, but
19th centuries, the Jewish com All through the summer, the more keeneyed historians
munity in Essaouira came to trade winds keep this part of will note that Hendrix released
the coast surprisingly cool. At the song two years before he
times, however, the blustery even arrived in Morocco.
winds are so strong that they Surfers will particularly
drive people to seek shelter in enjoy the many beaches each
STAY
the medina. At the estuary of side of Essaouira. Thanks to
Wadi Qsob, on the far side of the enterprise of dynamic
the beach, vestiges of the thick local associations, Morocco is
Villa Maroc system of defences built on a
Essaouira’s original rocky promontory by Sultan
boutique hotel is a Sidi Mohammed are visible.
warren of rooms, court Although they have crumbled,
yards and terraces with the walls can still be made out.
views over the port.
⌂ 10 Rue Abdellah Ben
Yassine, Medina
∑ villa-maroc.com

L’Heure Bleue
The top hotel in town is
a former mansion, done
out in colonial style,
with all the facilities
you could ever desire.
⌂ 2 Rue Ibn Batouta,
Medina ∑ heure-
bleue.com

128
Must See
becoming increasingly popular
with surfers and windsurfers.
(The Océan Vagabond café is
a good place to hire surfing
equipment.) The windiest
time of year, and therefore the
best time for surfing and wind
surfing, is April to September.
However, while the air is always
pleasantly warm, the water is
rather cool. South of Essaouira,
at Cap Sim (beyond Diabet)
and at Sidi Kaouki, and to the
north, at Moulay Bouzerktoun,
the waves are powerful, and
safe only for the experienced.
Also to the south, at Tafelney
(beyond Smimou), there is a THE GNAOUA WORLD MUSIC FESTIVAL
magnificent bay where the Every June, Essaouira’s population is swollen by about
water is warmer. In spite of the 200,000 people as music fans and revellers roll into town
constant gusty wind, it is easier for four days and nights of concerts. It began back in 1998
to get into the water on the as a celebration of the music of the gnaoua (or gnawa), the
beach at Essaouira, as the descendants of African slaves, who are renowned for their
waves are much gentler. spiritual music. Over the years the scope has grown and
now all kinds of musicians from all over the world take
part, and the whole town turns into one big party. Find
out more at www.festival-gnaoua.net.
7
Galerie Damgaard
now packed with boutiques and throughout the world,
⌂ Avenue Oqba Ibn Nafia
and galleries. Many talented many exhibitions and other
§ (0524) 7844 46 # 9am–
artists – some of them former projects have been devoted
1pm & 3–7pm daily
fishermen and farmers – to the painters of Essaouira.
A generation of selftaught were brought to the public’s
painters and sculptors has attention by the Dane Frederic
transformed Essaouira into Damgaard. Once an antique
an important centre of artistic dealer in Nice, from 1988 he 8"
activity. Essaouira’s medina is devoted his energies to the Musée Sidi
art produced in Essaouira, Mohammed
running his own gallery in the ben Abdallah
medina until he retired in 2006.
⌂ Rue Darb Laalouj
On display is the work of artists
# 9am–6pm daily
from the humblest walks of life.
Among the best known are This small but wellcurated
Zouzaf, Ali Maïmoune, Rachid ethnographic museum is laid
Amarlouch, Fatima Ettalbi and out in a 19thcentury house,
Mohammed Tabal, a Gnaouan which was the pasha’s resi
known as “the trance painter”. dence and the town hall
Others to be discovered include during the Protectorate, and
the expressionist known simply is almost worth the trip alone.
as Ali, whose style is midway With a strong focus on Berber
between naive and Brutalist, culture, it contains many fine
and his son Ben Ali. All of these displays of ancient crafts,
artists draw inspiration from weapons and jewellery.
Essaouira’s cultural variety, There are artifacts from reli
and reflect the traditions of gious brotherhoods, Moorish
different schools. In Morocco musical instruments and
some stunning examples of
Berber and Jewish costumes
in silk, velvet and flannel.
Sunset over Essaouira’s Carpets illustrating the tradi
beach, one of the finest tional weaving of local tribes
in Morocco are also on show.
129
Did You Know?
Orson Welles used
the city’s Citerne
Portugaise as a
location for his film
Othello (1952).
Perfect reflections
in the Citerne
Portugaise
130
Must See
2
EL-JADIDA
! B2 £ @ n 20 bis, Ave Maukawama & Place Mohammed V; (0523) 34 47 88
Lying between Casablanca and Essaouira, the small coastal city of

El-Jadida is an appealing mix of a historic medina with fortified sea-
walls, fine beaches and plenty of excellent seafood. With far fewer
tourists than its neighbouring cities and some wonderful historic
sights, El-Jadida is a great place to kick back for a couple of days.
The Story of El-Jadida

The Portuguese settled here in 1502 and built a fort
named Mazagan. In time, the town became a major
centre of trade, and ships from Europe and the East
anchored here to take on provisions. In 1769, the
sultan Sidi Mohammed expelled the Portuguese, who
destroyed it with explosives as they fled. It was resettled
by local Arab tribes and a large Jewish community from
Azemmour at the beginning of the 19th century.
Old Town Highlights

Entry into the UNESCO World Heritage listed old town is
through a gateway that leads to Place Mohammed ben-
Abdallah. The seawalls are fortified with four bastions
that were rebuilt after the Portuguese destroyed the
town in 1769, and a walk along the ramparts offers lovely
panoramic views.
At the centre of the old town is the Citerne Portugaise
(Portuguese cistern). Designed in the Manueline Gothic
style, the cistern was constantly fed by fresh water so as
to guarantee the town’s water supply in the event of a
prolonged siege. It was rediscovered by chance in 1916
when a shopkeeper was knocking down a wall to enlarge
his premises. The mirror-like reflections of the archi- Fortifications of the old
tecture in the still water are a truly captivating sight. Portuguese city of Mazagan
INSIDE THE CITERNE PORTUGAISE

A well, 3.5 m (11.5 ft)
The Portuguese built the foundations of this across, was sunk
underground cistern in 1514. First an through the central
arsenal, then an armoury, it was span, allowing daylight
converted into a cistern after to enter.
the citadel was enlarged
in 1541. The
cistern is
open daily
(admission
fee required).
Five lines of columns

support the vaults.
The cistern takes the

The 25 pillars are
form of a square 34 m by
reflected in the
33 m (111 ft by 108 ft).
stagnant water.
131
The mausoleum of
Marabout Sidi Kaouki
situated on the beach
EXPERIENCE MORE
economic hub of the province, this distinction can be seen
3 a coastal plain known as from Place Hassan II, in the
Sidi Kaouki Morocco’s grainstore. While town centre, in the arrange-
the north of the region is ment of open spaces and
! B4 ⌂ 12 km (7.5 miles)
famous for its fertile agricul- pedestrianized shopping
south of Essaouira
tural land, the southern part is areas, and in buildings
Sidi Kaouki is a small, sleepy given over to livestock (chaoui combining Art Deco and
seafront village with a fine, if means “breeder of sheep”). Moorish styles.
windswept, beach. Appearing When Moulay Ismaïl built Of greater interest is the
to rise up out of the water is the Kasbah Ismaïla at the end tiny village of Boulaouane,
the tomb of the marabout of the 17th century, the secu- which can be reached by road
(holy man), who, according to rity and stability of the region from Settat. The journey to
legend, cured infertile women. – which was traversed by Boulaouane is a foretaste of
An annual pilgrimage takes major caravan routes – were the semi-arid southern land-
place here in mid-August. This strengthened. The sultan scapes. Barbary fig trees line
is also a popular surf centre, would stay in the kasbah on the roads, and donkeys carry
with a number of rental kiosks his travels between Fès and barrels of local wine.
in the village. Locals offer horse Marrakech. Vestiges of the
and camel rides along the building can still be seen in
beach. In the winter months, the modern town.
the local river, just a short walk Today, Settat offers little of 5
from the village, becomes interest to tourists. However, Kasbah Boulaouane
home to wild flamingos. under the aegis of Driss Basri,
! C3
a native of the region and
Minister of the Interior for Located in a meander of Wadi
almost 20 years, it stood as a Oum er-Rbia, this stunning
4 model of urban development kasbah stands on a promon-
Settat in the 1990s. The merits of tory in the heart of a wide
! C3 @ £ n Avenue
Hassan II, El-Haram
building; (0523) 40 58 05 The journey to Boulaouane is a foretaste
of the semi-arid southern landscapes.
Set on a crossroads between
north and south, Settat is the Barbary fig trees line the roads, and
capital of Chaouia and the donkeys carry barrels of local wine.
132
forested area. It was apparently
built by the Almohads, who BOULAOUANE WINE
made it an imperial stopping Connoisseurs consider Gris de Boulaouane, a rosé
place on the road running with an orange tint, one of the best Moroccan
along the coast and inland to wines. Although the Romans successfully grew
Fès. At the beginning of the vines here, the establishment of Islam hindered
16th century, it was the scene the upkeep of the vineyards. Under the French
of a battle that halted the Protectorate, the vineyards were revived, but
Portuguese advancement their quality soon deteriorated. In the 1990s, old
towards the interior. Moulay vines were dug up and new stock planted. Today,
Ismaïl revitalized the village Moroccan vineyards are found in the district of
by choosing to build a kasbah Boulaouane, the Doukkala region, the foothills of
here in 1710 – an attempt to the Atlas and along the Atlantic coast. The grapes
pacify and control the region. are hand-harvested at the end of August, and
The stone-built fortress is the wine is exported mostly to Europe.
encircled by a crenellated wall
set with bastions and pierced
by an angled gate with three Ceaselessly battered by the the name of Moulay Bouchaïb
pointed arches. Above the elements, the kasbah has – the town’s patron saint,
gate is an inscription of suffered a great deal of deteri- who, in the 12th century, was
Ismaïl’s name and the date oration over the centuries. It also patron saint of the trade
of the kasbah’s foundation. was declared a historic monu- that flourished between the
This gate, which accommo- ment in 1922. The mosque town and Málaga in Spain.
dated sentries, is the only and city walls are undergoing In 1513, the Portuguese
point of entry into the fortress. restoration work. took control of the town. The
It leads through to the sultan’s The region is also famous fort that they built became
palace, built around a central for its tradition of falconry, a the kasbah that can be seen
courtyard with rather elaborate sport still practised today by today. They abandoned the
mosaic decoration. Beside the falconers from several impor- town when Agadir fell in 1541.
palace, a square tower, now tant local families. Despite its year-round
disfigured by cracks, afforded gentle climate and coastal
a vantage point over the sur- location, Azemmour has few
rounding territory. Disused hotels, and not many tourists
vaulted armouries were used 6 come here. The narrow white
for storing food supplies. The Azemmour streets of the medina are
mosque is now in a very bad peppered with architectural
! B2 @ n Avenue
state of preservation. Next to features recalling the former
Mohammed V
it is the tomb of Sidi Mancar, Portuguese presence – the
whom the region’s inhabitants An ancient Almohad town style of the doors being par-
still revere, since he is believed located on the left bank of the ticularly prominent in this
to have had the power to cure Wadi Oum er-Rbia estuary, respect. The town also has a
paralysis and sterility. Azemmour is also known by tradition of Portuguese-style
embroidery, which features
dragons and lions depicted
face to face, an exclusively
Moroccan motif. The mellah
(Jewish quarter), once within
walls, is now derelict. The
synagogue, however, has a
notable pediment with an
inscription in Hebrew.
Eight kilometres (5 miles)
north on the coastal road, the
Sidi Boubeker lighthouse
offers a view of the town’s
defences. Haouzia beach,
starting 2 km (1.5 miles)
southeast of Azemmour,
stretches from the Oum
er-Rbia estuary to El-Jadida.
Along the way it passes a
Whitewashed walls of Azemmour mosque forest of eucalyptus, pine and
give the town a Mediterranean feel mimosa with flowering cacti.
133
Man strolling past portugese-style doorways, Azemmour
tribes) held here every here is the residence built
7 year in August is famed for its for Sultan Mohammed V.
Moulay Abdallah fantasias and for its orchestral The town is an important
and folkloric spectacles that centre of the oyster industry.
! B3 ⌂ 11 km (7 miles)
last throughout the night. A visit to the oyster farms
south of El-Jadida and
From the coast road leading (parcs à huitres), particularly
82 km (51 miles) north
south from Moulay Abdallah Oyster Farm No 7, is a plea-
of Oualidia
you can see the huge industrial sant way to pass some time
The origins of this fishing installations of the mineral and a good opportunity to
village lie in a 12th-century port of Jorf Lasfar, the largest sample some local treats.
Almohad settlement, then of its kind in Africa. The Ostrea restaurant and
known as Tit. The old site’s hotel is also located here.
impressive ruins can still be The coastal road running
seen today, together with a south along the clifftop leads
minaret dating from the same 8 to Cap Beddouza and Safi.
period as that of the Koutoubia Oualidia
Mosque in Marrakech (p234). Oyster Farm No 7
! B3 @
The settlement was a ribat, and Ostrea
or fortified monastery, built This small coastal resort ⌂ On the El-Jadida Road
around the cult of the saint takes its name from the sultan § (0523) 36 64 51; Ostrea:
Moulay Abdallah, and its El-Oualid, who built an (0664) 49 12 76
purpose was to guard the impressive kasbah here in
coast. It became a busy port, 1634. The rather unattractive
but it was destroyed in the town centre leads through to
early 16th century to prevent a stunningly beautiful beach 9
the Portuguese, who were at on the edge of a lagoon. Safi
Azemmour, from taking it. Swimming is safe here, but
! B3 £ @ n Tourist office,
The burgeoning fishing on either side the sea is rough
Rue Imam-Malek & main
industry revived the village, and foaming. This is one of
market, Avenue de la
which then assumed the name the best beaches on the
Liberté; (0524) 62 24 96
of the saint in whose honour it Atlantic coast for surfing,
was established. The moussem particularly for beginners. An important Moroccan port
(a meeting of the Doukkala Among the summer villas since the 16th century, the
Waves hitting the

cliffs of the Atlantic
coast near Safi
136
town of Safi is today an
industrial centre and a OUALIDIA OYSTERS
major sardine-processing
port. It owes its importance
Did You Know? Lovers of seafood the
world over hold Oualidia
to the growth of the fishing During WWII, oysters in especially high
industry and to the proces- American forces esteem. The species of
sing and exporting of phos- occupied the town of edible oyster that has
phates, but it is probably best Safi in Operation earned Oualidia its
known for its exceptional Blackstone. reputation is related
pottery, found the world over. to those from the
A rapidly expanding town, Safi Marennes-Oléron
has an alluring medina, and region of France and
the traces of its Portuguese which served as a residence were imported in the
history are prevalent. for the Saadi sultans in the 1950s. Oyster Farm No 7,
The area covered by the 17th and 18th centuries before which was set up in 1992
medina takes the form of a the French took control of the in the lagoon on the
triangle, whose widest side region. On the esplanade are El-Jadida road, is one
faces onto the coast. Rue du rows of cannons cast in Spain, of the most modern in
Souk, which is lined with Portugal and Holland. Morocco. The oysters
shops and workshops, leads On the hill just behind the and other shellfish
to Bab Chaaba (Gate of the medina, the citadel, known as farmed here are raised
Valley). Near the Grand the Kechla, encloses a mosque according to stringent
Mosque, south of the medina, and garden dating from the European health and
is the Portuguese Chapel, 18th and 19th centuries. Since hygiene regulations.
originally the choir of Safi’s 1990, the Kechla has housed
cathedral, which was built the Musée National de la
in the 16th century and Céramique, which contains
was the first of its kind displays of traditional and
outside Portugal. modern ceramics, including
Overlooking the sea is the blue-and-white wares made
small fortress of Ksar el-Bahr, in Safi, pottery from Fès and
also known as the Château Meknès, and pieces by the
de la Mer (Castle of the Sea), Algerian pottery master
Boujmaa Lamali, who lived
and worked in Safi for almost
50 years and introduced the
revolutionary techniques
now considered typical of
Moroccan pottery.
In the Colline des Potiers
(Potter’s Hill), on the edge of
the medina in the Bab Chaaba
district, you will find craftsmen
making the traditional ceramic
wares that have made Safi 10
famous. Finished pieces are Kasbah Hamidouch
displayed and offered for sale
! B3 ⌂ 29 km (18 miles)
in the commercial showrooms,
south of Safi on the
and visitors can follow the
coast road
various stages of pottery
production at the training This kasbah is part of a
school, from a simple mound system of fortified outposts
of clay to a hand-painted that Moulay Ismaïl established
masterpiece, or commission to control the region and
an original. accommodate travellers. It is
encircled by an outer wall,
Ksar el-Bahr within which stand a mosque
# 9am–noon & 2–6pm daily and other buildings, now in
ruins. An inner wall, set with
Musée National de square towers and reinforced
la Céramique by a dry moat, surrounds a
⌂ Kechla # 10am–6pm courtyard lined with shops,
Wed–Mon various houses and a chapel.
137
11
Chiadma Region
! X9
The territory of the Chiadma,

in the provinces of Safi and
Essaouira, is inhabited by
Regraga Berbers. They are
reportedly descended from

the Seven Saints, a group of
scholars, who, during a
journey to Mecca in the 7th
century, were directed by the
Prophet Mohammed to convert
the Maghreb region to Islam.
In spring, the Regrada make Blue fishing boats lining
a 40-day commemorative 12 the beach in the town of
pilgrimage, ending at the Tamanar Taghazoute, near Tamri
small village of Ha Dra.
! B4
A souk, one of the most
authentic markets in the The small town of Tamanar,
area, takes place in Ha Dra which extends along its one 13
on Sunday mornings. Grain, main street, is a regional Tamri
spices, animals and a wide administrative centre and the
! B4
range of goods, mostly food, effective capital of the argan
are offered for sale. industry. The production of the This village is located on the
oil originated here, and the estuary of a river that in the
region has been classified as a winter months is fed partly by
ARGAN OIL UNESCO Biosphere Reserve the waterfall at Imouzzer des
The argan, a tenacious, due to the forests of argan Ida Outanane. There is an
twisted North African found throughout. It is at the extensive banana plantation.
tree, has a multitude of heart of Haha territory, home On the left, as you approach
uses. Being a hard wood, to a settled yet dynamic Berber Tamri from the north, an
it is ideal for charcoal; population that was self- inland road leads to a major
camels and goats find governing in the 15th century. birdwatching area, where
the leaves and fruit On the way out of the Audouin’s gulls, Barbary
delectable; and the village, near Café Argana, is a falcons, Lamier’s falcons,
vitamin-rich oil extracted store selling locally produced sparrows and various other
from the kernel can be argan oil. The highly organi- species can be seen.
used in cosmetics for its zed women who run it show About 19 km (12 miles)
anti-ageing properties. the fruits of their labour in a north of Agadir is Taghazoute,
In medicine it is used to friendly atmosphere and sell a fishing village that is popular
combat arteriosclerosis, their products in a cooperative. with surfers. It was also colo-
chicken pox and Between Smimou (where nized by the hippy movement,
rheumatism. A few drops there is a picturesque souk and, on the way out of the
are enough to bring out on Sundays) and Tamanar, a village, you can see curious
the flavour of salads and small sign saying “Tafadna” signs saying “Banana Village”
tajines, and it is used as indicates the route to Tafelney. and “Paradise Valley” – names
fuel for lamps. Two-thirds of the way along given by those who followed
this road, the landscape takes in the footsteps of Jimi Hendrix.
on a majestic beauty. The road
comes to a sudden stop at a
magnificent bay, where fisher-
men can often be seen mend-
ing their nets on the beach.
Did You Know?
To the left, a huddle of In times of drought,
identical shanty houses are puppets decorated with
home to thousands of birds. white flowers are
To those with a taste for placed in the Chiadma’s
remote spots, the strange fields to bring rain.
beauty of this place will have
a strong appeal.
138
A DRIVING TOUR
IMOUZZER DES SOUTHERN
IDA OUTANANE
ATLANTIC
COAST
Imouzzer des
Ida Outanane
Length 40 km (25 miles) Stopping-off point Hôtel

des Cascades at Imouzzer has relaxing gardens and Locator Map
a restaurant For more detail see p124
This tour follows a very scenic river valley with many natural
swimming pools surrounded by palm trees. From Agadir, a
winding road leads to Imouzzer village, set on a hilltop in the
foothills of the High Atlas, with waterfalls said to be the
highest in northern Africa. It is the heart of the territory of
the Ida Outanane, a confederation of Berbers whose
traditional speciality is gathering honey.
The road to Bigoudine
offers a succession
In February, the red- of panoramic views.
The natural bridge at This is where the argan
ochre houses of the
Assif el-Had was forests begin.
villages at Imi Irhzer
created by water
almost disappear in a
flowing down from the
sea of almond blossom.
mountains and eroding
the rock beneath.
Tadrart
Imi Irhzer
Assif el-Had Tiqqi Sinite
Tazarine
Bigoudine
Isk Win Timedouine

Tamaroute Caves Réservoir du
Barrage
Imouzzer Abdelmounmen
Tizgui n Chorfa
Tazaantoute
0 km 5 N
0 miles 5
Tizgui Idmine
Located 35 km (22 miles) from
Imouzzer, the Win Timedouine
Imouzzer village is famous for Caves are the most extensive in
its waterfalls. It is the starting point North Africa. From here begin your
for many excursions organized by driving tour to Imouzzer.
the Hôtel des Cascades.
The waterfalls in the attractive village

of Tamaroute are known as “The Bridal
Veil”. Flowing from several levels, the
waters are abundant when the snow
begins to melt in spring.
139
Interior details of the HÔtel Continental, Tangier
TANGIER
The history of Tangier is inextricably linked to
its strategic location on the Strait of Gibraltar.
The Phoenicians established a port here in the
8th century, and it was later settled by the
Carthaginians. In 146 BC, Tangier, known as
Tingis, became a Roman town and the capital of
Mauretania, to which it gave the name Tingitana.
In 711, Arab and Berber forces gathered here to
conquer Spain. By the 14th century, the town was
trading with Marseille, Genoa, Venice and Barcelona.
In the 19th century, Morocco was the object
of dispute between European nations. When Kaiser
Wilhelm II denounced the entente cordiale between
France and Britain in 1905, the stage was set for
Tangier’s transformation into an international city.
This was sealed by the Treaty of Algeciras (1906),
after which the diplomatic corps in Tangier took
over Morocco’s political, financial and fiscal affairs.
When colonial rule was established in 1912, Spain
took control of the northern part of the country.
Tangier, however, remained under international
administration until 1956, when it was returned
to the now-independent Kingdom of Morocco.
Its time as an international zone was very much
the city’s heyday; during this time its image as
a romantic and sensuously exotic place was
reflected in literature and on the big screen.
141
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EXPERIENCE Tangier
EXPERIENCE
the square is the Dar ech- those found in Marrakech and
1 Chera, the former tribunal, Essaouira, regularly perform
Kasbah fronted by an arcade of three music and dance here. In the
white marble columns. The evening, audiences can talk
 C1 ⌂ From the Marshan,
large fig tree growing against with them about their musical
accessible via Bab el-
the wall of an elegant house traditions and their repertoire.
Kasbah; from the medina,
is supposed to be the place From the lobby, a narrow
via Rue Ben Raissouli and
where Samuel Pepys wrote passage reveals a small derb
Bab el-Assa; from the Grand
about Tangier in his diary in (alleyway) lined with very fine
Socco, via Rue d’Italie and
the 17th century. houses, while beyond the gate
Rue de la Kasbah
Bab el-Assa (Gate of is a view over the city.
The kasbah was built on the Bastinado) leads from the
site of a Roman settlement. square to the medina. It was
Its present appearance dates set at an angle so as to make
from the Portuguese period it more difficult to attack. The 2"
and that of Moulay Ismaïl gate gets its name from the Kasbah Museum
(p202). With its quiet streets bastinado (caning the soles of of Mediterranean
and friendly inhabitants, it has the feet) that was once the Cultures
a special character, and its walls punishment of criminals. In
 C1 ⌂ Place de la Kasbah
and gates command stunning the lobby, between the two
§ (0539) 93 20 97 # 9am–
views over the strait, the bay porches, stands a fountain
6pm Wed–Mon
and the city. decorated with mosaics,
Place de la Kasbah was stuccowork and woodcarving. The Kasbah Museum is laid
once the méchouar, where the Gnaouas, distantly related to out in the Dar el Makhzen, a
sultan or his pashas held public former sultans’ palace built in
audiences. It is also the location the 17th century by Ahmed
of the Dar El-Makhzen, the ben Ali, whose father Ali ben
former palace that is now a
museum, and of the Kasbah €8 Billion Abdellah al Hamani Errifi
liberated Tangier from the
Mosque, whose octagonal British settlers in 1664. The
The cost of the proposed
minaret is clad in coloured palace was remodelled and
tunnel linking Spain
tiles. Its present form dates enlarged several times in the
and Morocco via the
from the 19th century; the 17th and 19th centuries. Bit el-
Strait of Gibraltar from
mendoub (the Sultan’s Mal, the treasury – a separate
Tarifa to Tangier.
representative in Tangier) led room with a glorious painted
Friday prayers here. Also on cedar ceiling – contains large
144
environs, from the Neolithic TOP
A local man walking through
Bab el-Assa, which leads to a
period to its occupation by
foreign powers, are presented 5 TANGIER
TEAHOUSES
stunning view of the city through displays of grave
goods, pottery and coins. Café Baba
Adjacent to the palace is a  D1 ⌂ Rue Zaitouni
18th-century coffers with a delightful Andalusian Garden, The locals’ and celebs’
complex system of locks. perfect for a peaceful stroll. choice for mint tea for
A gallery leads to the palace over 75 years.
itself. It is built around a
central courtyard paved with Café Central
zellij tilework and surrounded 3  D2 ⌂ Petit Socco
by a gallery supported by Ramparts Revisit Burroughs and
white marble columns with Kerouac in the literary
 D1 ⌂ Place de la Kasbah, Tangier of old.
Corinthian capitals. The seven
accessible via Bab el-Bahar
exhibition rooms opening
onto the patio display artifacts On the side of the square Cinémathèque
de Tanger
evoking the material history of facing the sea, opposite Bab
 C3 ⌂ Place du 9 Avril
Tangier from prehistoric times el-Assa, stands Bab el-Bahar
(Grand Socco)
to the 19th century. These (Gate of the Sea), built into the
Arthouse café with
include bone and stone tools, walls in 1920. From the terrace
fresh juices, pastries
ceramics, terracotta figurines there is a breathtaking view of
and Wi-Fi.
and Phoenician silver jewellery. the port, the Mediterranean
The Voyage of Venus, a Sea and, on a particularly clear
Gran Café de Paris
Roman mosaic recovered from day, even the Spanish coast
 C4 ⌂ Place de France
the ruins of the ancient city on the other side of the Strait
Once a meeting place for
of Volubilis (p198), is displayed of Gibraltar. literati, now known for
in the museum’s courtyard. The walkway, starting on The Bourne Ultimatum.
Reproductions of several the left, follows the outside of
famous bronzes from the the ramparts and leads to the Café Hafa
Musée de l’Histoire et des impressive Borj en Naam fort, Iconic café featuring
Civilisations (formerly named which, although closed to the a sprawling terrace
the Musée Archéologique) in public, is impressive when with views across
Rabat (p86) are also on display. viewed from afar. Continuing the Mediterranean
One room is devoted entirely to along the seafront through straight (p152).
Morocco’s major archaeological residential districts, the route
sites, while another is filled with leads to Hafa.
fascinating replica maps of
enormous proportions tracing
ancient trade routes, dating as
far back as 1154. On the upper
floor, the prehistory and
history of Tangier and its
Moroccan women taking in

the views from the ramparts
at Bab el-Bahar
145
centre housed in a disused
4 synagogue. On display here INSIDER TIP
Rue Es-Siaghine are newspapers, photographs, Exploring
posters and plans relating to the Medina
 D2 ⌂ Running from
the political, sporting, musical There are a number of
the Petit Socco to the
and social history of Tangier walks through Tangier’s
Grand Socco
since the 1930s. Temporary medina, marked by
This street was once the exhibitions of paintings also colour-coded signs. The
decumanus maximus, the main take place here. yellow route will take
EXPERIENCE Tangier
axis and busiest thoroughfare you from the south of

of the Roman town. It led from Fondation Lorin the medina at Petit
the harbour out through the ⌂ 44 Rue Touahine § (0539) Socco all the way to
southern gate, marked today 93 03 06 # 10:30am–1:30pm the American Legation.
by Bab Fahs. Lined with cafés & 3:30–7:30pm Sun–Fri
and bazaars, the street is as
lively now as it would have and cabarets of Petit Socco.
been in antiquity. The Fuentes, a caférestaurant
The small administrative 5 and hotel, now gives but a
building at No 47, with a court Petit Socco faint impression of these
yard planted with orange trees, halcyon days. From the 1950s,
 D2 ⌂ Accessible via
was from 1860 to 1923 the the hub of city life shifted to
Rue Es-Siaghine or Rue
residence of the naib, the Ville Nouvelle, leaving the
Jma el-Kbir
Moroccan high official who square to a few writers, and
served as an intermediary Known today as Souk Dakhli, to idlers, smokers of kif and
between the sultan and foreign Petit Socco probably corre shady traffickers. Nowadays
ambassadors. The Spanish sponds to the area on which Petit Socco is a lovely place
Church of the Immaculate the forum of Roman Tingis to wander, admire colourful
Conception (La Purísima), at once stood. It was a country architecture and take in the
No 51, was built by the Spanish souk, where people would city’s bohemian vibe over a
government, work beginning come to buy food, and with cup of Morocco’s signature
in 1880. It was used by the the arrival of the Europeans sweet mint tea.
whole city’s Christian commu at the end of the 19th century
nity, as well as by foreign it became the pulsing heart
diplomats. It is now used for of the medina. This was where
social activities. business was done; diplomats, 6
Further up the street, on businessmen and bankers, Tomb of Ibn Batuta
the left, is Rue Touahine, whose offices were located
 C2
which is lined with jewellers’ around the square or in the
shops and which leads to the close vicinity, could be seen The Marco Polo of the Islamic
Fondation Lorin, an arts in the cafés, hotels, casinos world, Ibn Batuta was born in
Tangier in 1304. As an adult,
the Berber Muslim made an
arduous hajj (pilgrimage) to
Mecca and just kept on going,
dedicating his life to exploring
the world. In the end, he spent
over 30 years travelling across
North and West Africa, Central
and Southeast Asia, reaching
as far as China. Towards the
end of his life he recorded his
experiences in a book usually
referred to as The Travels, an
invaluable historical resource,
even today. A modest tomb
in the medina, a 20minute
walk from Petit Socco, is
supposed to be his final
resting place. It is a simple,
singleroom structure, and
the greatest satisfaction
Visitors and locals wandering through comes from simply having
the busy, winding streets of Petit Socco found it.
146
Guests enjoying a
7 8 quiet meal in the
Grand Mosque Hôtel Continental balcony restaurant
at Hôtel Continental
 E2 ⌂ Rue Jma el-Kbir  E1 ⌂ 36 Rue Dar el-Baroud
¢ To non-Muslims § (0539) 93 10 24 # Daily
The Grand Mosque, built on The Hôtel Continental, Moulay Sliman presented to
the site of a Portuguese cathe located opposite the port, is the United States in 1821,
dral, probably also overlies a one of Tangier’s oldest hotels. and which served as the US
former Roman temple dedica The building’s architectural Consulate for the next 140
ted to Hercules. Dating from style, its open terraces and its years. Another suite, on
the reign of Moulay Ismaïl, it Andalusianstyle lounges give several floors looking out
was enlarged in 1815 by Moulay this establishment great onto a garden, was presented
Sliman. Sultan Mohammed V appeal. Its patrons have by a Jewish family: the site was
led Friday prayers here during included writers, film pivotal in rescuing thousands
a visit to Tangier in the 1940s, producers and painters – of Jewish refugees from Europe
when he also made a historic among them Edgar Degas. during World War II. The doors,
speech in the Mendoubia windows and ceilings have
grounds. Opposite, the state been skilfully decorated by
primary school (established craftsmen from Fès.
during the French Protectorate) 9 The rooms contain engra
is a former Merinid medersa American Legation vings of Gibraltar and Tangier,
that was remodelled in the Museum old maps, and paintings by
18th century. Yves Brayer, Claudio Bravo and
 D3 ⌂ 8 Rue d’Amérique
Nearby, the Borj elHadjoui others, were given to the lega
§ (0539) 93 53 17 # 10am–
commands a view of the port tion by Marguerite McBey, wife
5pm Mon–Fri, 10am–3pm Sat
and a pair of Armstrong can of James. One wing is devoted
nons, each weighing around The American Legation to Paul Bowles, author of The
20 tonnes. They were bought Museum consists of a suite of Sheltering Sky, who lived in
from the British in Gibraltar, rooms that originally formed Tangier for over 50 years.
but were never used. part of the residence that Through photographs, early
editions and recordings, the
rooms give an overview of his
Nowadays Petit Socco is a lovely place to life. A reference library is also
available for scholars on North
wander, admire colourful architecture and Africa, and there is an ongoing
take in the city’s bohemian vibe over a cup literacy programme for the
of Morocco’s signature sweet mint tea. women of Tangier.
147
10
The buzzing atmosphere in Fondouk
Grand Socco (Place Chejra, colloquially known as the Poor
du 9 Avril 1947) People’s Souk or the Weavers’ Souk,
 C3
is that of an Oriental bazaar.
Officially known as Place du
9 Avril 1947 in memory of cafés, restaurants and square is the iconic Cinema
the historic speech that King teahouses surround the Rif, originally built in 1938
EXPERIENCE Tangier
Mohammed V made in that cobbled square. It also acts as and restored in 2005. An
year in support of Moroccan a transportation hub, and is Art Deco gem, the cinema
independence, Grand Socco always full of petit taxi drivers now operates as the
(meaning “big souk” – socco competing for business. Cinémathèque de Tanger.
being a Spanish corruption The square comes to life It is a cultural hotspot for the
of the Arabic word, souk) is in the evenings, when, every city’s film-buffs, screening
the link between the medina night, street vendors spread a mix of mainstream and
and the Ville Nouvelle. With out their wares on the ground arthouse films, and hosting
an elegant fountain at its – extensive displays of a huge numerous creative workshops
central point, and lined with variety of second-hand goods and film-themed events
towering palm trees, Grand and all manner of trinkets. throughout the year such
Socco is a busy market A colourful market, where as the Tangier National Film
square that acts as a convivial peasant women in striped Festival and the African
meeting place for the city’s foutas (scarves) and wide- Film Festival of Tarifa-Tangier.
inhabitants. Numerous lively brimmed straw hats come The cinema café is a popular
to sell fresh fruit and fowl, hangout for the city’s youth
takes place above the square, and local creatives.
INSIDER TIP near the Anglican Church of Northwest of the square,
Book Ahead St Andrew, at the end near Bab Fahs, the grand
On arrival in Tangier, of Rue d’Angleterre. double gateway that gives
you will be inundated The minaret of the entrance to the medina, are
by those offering to Mosque of Sidi the delightful Mendoubia
“guide” you to your Bou Abib, Gardens. They contain the
hotel. This is rarely decorated with former residence of the
genuine, or free. Be polychrome tiles, mendoub, who was the
confident, and say “no dominates the sultan’s representative in
thanks”. Hotels and skyline in Tangier when the city was
riads will almost always the south- under international
organise a transfer. west. Just administration from 1923–56.
off the main The building now houses a
local chamber of commerce,
while the gardens are a large
public park, a welcome relief
from the chaotic buzz of city
life. The park is surrounded by
attractive colonial buildings.
At the top of the tallest hill,
there is a monument
commemorating the speech
made by Mohammed V in
1947, in which he formally
requests independence
for Morocco.
Cinema Rif
⌂ 3 Rue de La Liberté
∑ cinemathequede
tanger.com
The multicoloured minaret of

the Mosque of Sidi Bou Abib
overlooking the square
(a roadside inn providing
ARTISTS AND WRITERS IN TANGIER accommodation for travellers
Many artists and writers from Europe and the United and their caravans) is difficult
States have come to Tangier in search of stimulation. to make out, the central court
Most notably, painters Eugène Delacroix and Henri yard having been much altered.
Matisse, and authors William Burroughs and Mohammed
Choukri were drawn by the atmosphere, freedom and
sense of adventure that this international port city
13
projects. The Expressionist and companion of Matisse,
Charles Camoin, reputedly rediscovered his joy of Anglican Church
painting in Morocco, Minaret à Tanger (1913) being one of St Andrew
of several works completed here.
 C3 ⌂ Rue d’Angleterre
# 9:30am–12:30pm & 2:30–
6pm daily; keys obtainable
from the caretaker
Built on land that Moulay

Hassan donated to fulfil the
needs of a large British popu
lation in Tangier, the Anglican
Church of St Andrew was
completed in 1894. The interior
is a curious mix of styles, but
the Moorish one dominates.
The lobed arch at the
entrance to the choir, and the
ceiling above the altar, which
is decorated with a quotation
from the Gospels in Arabic,
are of particular interest. The
bell tower, strikingly similar
in shape to that of a minaret,
overlooks the cemetery.
Among those buried here
with a mission to preserve are Walter Harris, a journalist
11 " and disseminate contemporary and correspondent for The
Galerie d’Art Moroccan art. Times, and Sir Harry Mclean, a
Contemporain military adviser to the sultans.
Mohamed Drissi A plaque at the west end of
the church commemorates
 B4 ⌂ Rue d’Angleterre 12 Emily Kean, who came to
§ (0539) 93 60 73 # 9am–
Fondouk Chejra Tangier from Britain in the 19th
4pm Tue–Sun
century, married the shorfa
 D3 ⌂ Rue de la Liberté,
Formerly the Museum of (sherif) of Ouezzane, a revered
accessible via the steps
Contemporary Art, the gallery holy town, and devoted her
below the level of the
reopened in 2006 and was life to the welfare of the
Hôtel el-Minzah
renamed in homage to the people of northern Morocco.
influential Moroccan artist. The buzzing atmosphere in
It hosts regular exhibitions Fondouk Chejra, colloquially
by Moroccan and inter known as the Poor People’s
national artists. The museum, Souk or the Weavers’ Souk,
whose five galleries occupy is that of an Oriental bazaar.
a grand villa, was originally Above the shops on the ground
constructed to house the floor, the rooms that were
British Consulate at the end once used by travellers and
of the 19th century. A small passing tradesmen have been
pagoda in the garden in front converted into weavers’ work
of the building sits over a shops, where the whiteand
fountain dedicated to Sir red fabric that is typical of the
Reginald Lister, former British Rif is produced by hand (and
Delegate to Morocco. It is now foot) on giant wooden looms. The English flag waving
one of the most prestigious The original layout of the above the Anglican
state galleries in Morocco, former fondouk, or caravanserai Church of St Andrew
149
EXPERIENCE Tangier
Treasures glinting in one

of the many antique shops
that line Rue de la Liberté
illustrious hotels in Morocco, diplomats. The café has

14 with an Andalusian-style remained a bustling hub of
Rue de la Liberté courtyard and gardens, and city life. Very near Place de
comfortable lounges and France, on Avenue Pasteur, is
 C3
bars. Winston Churchill, Paul Place de Faro (named after
This street runs from Place and Jane Bowles, Jean Genet the Portuguese town twinned
du 9 Avril 1947 (or Grand and Hollywood stars from Rita with Tangier in 1984), complete
Socco) to Place de France and Hayworth to Errol Flynn all with cannons pointing across
Ville Nouvelle. While it was stayed in this magical place the sea towards Spain. It is
formerly known as Rue de at one time or another. one of the few places to have
Fès, then as Rue du Statut, its Just off the main street, escaped the attentions of
current moniker dates from opposite the El Minzah Hotel, developers and offers a view
the beginning of Moroccan is the Bazaar Tindouf, where of the medina and ferry traffic
independence in 1956 (p64). you can while away the hours in the harbour and the strait.
At the southern end of the marvelling at floor-to-ceiling
street, the French Consulate is trinkets and antiquities – a
set in the centre of a pleasant haggler’s paradise.
and attractive park, and the 16
classical arcade of the façade Galerie Delacroix Boulevard Pasteur
is offset by decoration in the ⌂ 86 Rue de la Liberté
 D4
traditional Moorish style. § (0539) 93 21 34 # 11am–
In the Galerie Delacroix, 1pm, 4–8pm Tue–Sun Boulevard Pasteur is Ville
housed in the French Cultural Nouvelle’s main artery and
Institute next door, temporary its economic centre. Later in
exhibitions are organized by the day, the avenue is given
the Institut Français. The Hôtel 15 over to the Spanish custom
el-Minzah is one of the most Place de France of paseo, a leisurely evening
and Place de Faro stroll. The Moroccan tourist
office at No 29 occupies the
 C4–D4
first building to be construc-
Did You Know? Place de France is a major
meeting place for the inhabi-
ted on the avenue, while the
villa at No 27 houses the Great
Tangier was gifted tants of Tangier. The Café de Synagogue. The famous
to King Charles II of Paris was the first establish-
England on his marriage ment to open outside the
to Princess Catherine of medina. Among its regular
Braganza, Portugal. customers were Paul Bowles, The lavish colonial villa of
Tennessee Williams and Jean Ancien Palais du Mendoub,
Genet, as well as foreign once home to Malcolm Forbes
150
Librairie des Colonnes, the
bookshop at No 54, has lost 17
some of its former prestige Ancien Palais
du Mendoub
EAT
and importance. Once a
regular haunt of Tangier’s
 E4 ⌂ Avenue
intellectuals and writers such
Mohammed Tazi (in the
as Paul Bowles, Jean Genet, Anna & Paolo
northwest of Ville
Samuel Beckett and William Intimate and friendly
Nouvelle) ¢ To the public
Burroughs, the chic and family-run trattoria
stylish bookshop is still a The Mendoub was the sultan’s serving authentic
much-loved city landmark, representative during the Italian dishes, including
where lectures, signings international administration fresh fish.
and other special events of Tangier. While his main  D3 ⌂ 77 Ave Prince
are held regularly. residence was the Mendoubia, Héritier, Ville Nouvelle
The Gran Teatro Cervantes near Grand Socco, this palace, § (0539) 94 46 17
(accessible from Avenue built in 1929, was used mostly

Pasteur, which is reached for receptions and special
along Rue du Prince Moulay functions. It was acquired in
Abdallah and via steps contin- 1970 by the American multi- Le Nabab
uing from it) is one of North millionaire Malcolm Forbes, This cosy eatery serves
Africa’s major theatres, and it founder of Fortune magazine. great local cuisine.
was here that the greatest It then became a luxury Hard to find, but worth
singers and dancers of the residence where Forbes threw the effort.
age performed. The building, lavish parties frequented by  D1 ⌂ 4 Rue
with an Art Deco façade, is in such international luminaries Al Kadiria, Medina
a bad state of repair. Restor- as Elizabeth Taylor, Calvin § (0661) 44 22 20
ation has been delayed by Klein and Henry Kissinger. 
disputes between the city and The house also contained a
the Spanish state, which had display of Forbes’ 120,000-
agreed to finance its upkeep. piece collection of toy soldiers. Populaire Saveur
The palace stood in for a du Poisson
Great Synagogue villainous arms dealer’s lair Small restaurant with
⌂ 27 Blvd Pasteur in The Living Daylights (1987), no menu; everyone is
starring Timothy Dalton as served four courses of
Librairie des Colonnes James Bond. It is now owned whatever seafood the
chef has in that day.
⌂ 54 Blvd Pasteur by the state and used as a
# 10am–8pm Mon–Sat residence for visiting VIPs  D5 ⌂ 2 Escalier Waller,
∑ librairie-des-colonnes.org from abroad. Ville Nouvelle
§ (0539) 33 63 26

151
decor seem to have changed
since then. Assorted tables
and rush matting are laid out
on terraces rising in tiers from
the edge of the cliff, offering a
breathtaking view of the
strait. Writers and musicians,
from Paul Bowles and William
Burroughs to The Beatles
EXPERIENCE Tangier
and The Rolling Stones, have

all visited this iconic café.
Trees framing the view

18 out on to the strait from 20
Quartier du Marshan the Café Hafa terrace Colline du Charf
 B2 ⌂ Rue Mohammed  F5 ⌂ In the southeast
Tazi, Rue Assad Ibn Farrat, of the city
the Marshan ends at the
Avenue Hassan II (in the
limits of Hafa, a less affluent A hill rising to a height of about
western part of the kasbah)
residential district with a 100 m (328 ft), the Colline du
Being removed from the great deal of local character, Charf (Charf Hill) commands
bustle of the medina and of up on the sea cliff. the most impressive and most
Ville Nouvelle, the Quartier complete view of Tangier.
du Marshan was an attractive The panorama stretches
residential area where high- from Cap Malabata in the east
flying officals and the shorfa 19 to La Montagne, which rises
(sherif) of Ouezzane built Café Hafa over the old town to the west.
their palaces and grand villas From here the beach appears
 E4 ⌂ Rue Mohammed
in the late 19th century. The as a strip lining the bay, and
Tazi (in a narrow street
Italian Consulate (Rue Assad the white, densely packed
opposite the football
Ibn Farrat), its walls covered medina seems to cling to
stadium, leading towards
in zellij tilework, reputedly the hillside as it slopes down
the sea)
housed Italian general and towards the port, while the
nationalist, Garibaldi, in 1849– Café Hafa opened in 1921, and high-rise blocks of Ville
50. On the edge of the strait, neither the furniture nor the Nouvelle stand tall along
152
its wide avenues. Poorer Avenue d’Espagne, which
residential districts stretch runs along the bay, is lined
out southwards: in among with hotels, from small Did You Know?
them, at the foot of the hill, guesthouses to large modern
you can see Plaza Toro, whose establishments. Dotted with The tangerine is
bullrings are now used for the blues, reds and whites of named after Tangier,
public functions. the boats and the ochre, green and people who lived in
Further north is the Syrian and orange of the fishing nets, Tangier were once
Mosque, with an unusual the town’s small fishing called tangerines.
style of minaret that is rarely harbour is a colourful sight to
seen in the Maghreb. The behold, and the freshly caught
mosque-like building on fish that is offered there daily
the hill was a busy café makes a delicious meal. It was Hôtel Cecil, while Samuel
during Tangier’s international on Avenue d’Espagne that Beckett preferred the Solazur.
period. A favourite form of Bernardo Bertolucci shot The proximity of the city
relaxation for the inhabitants scenes for his 1990 film The and the rivers that flow into it
of Tangier is to stroll to the Sheltering Sky. Many literary unfortunately make the beach
top of the hill and gaze out works, by William Burroughs here the most polluted in
over the strait. and others, took shape in the Morocco. For swimming and
small guesthouses here. The sunbathing, it is better to
French philosopher Michel make for Cap Spartel and the
Foucault would stay at the Grottes d’Hercule, where there
21 are many attractive little bays
Bay of Tangier separated by rocky outcrops.
INSIDER TIP Cap Malabata, where there are
 F5
Souvenirs coves sheltered by stands of
The Bay of Tangier, a splendid Handicrafts and tourist pine, is an easy day trip from
crescent-shaped bay likened trinkets are plentiful in the city, or, further east, the
to the Baie des Anges in Nice Tangier, but prices are beaches at Sidi Khankroucht
or to Copacabana beach in hiked up for the benefit and Ksar es-Seghir offer some
Rio de Janeiro, stretches from of daytrippers hopping of the best surf in Morocco.
the port to the residential over from Spain. You
districts and resorts just will likely find better
outside the city, to the first deals almost anywhere The sprawling city of
spurs of land that mark the else in Morocco. Tangier viewed from the
bay’s most eastern extremity. ancient kasbah
153
Chefchaouen, the blue city
MEDITERRANEAN
COAST AND THE RIF
The great mountainous crescent of the Rif
forms a natural barrier across northern Morocco,
separating much of the Mediterranean coast
from the interior. Inaccessible and intricately
partitioned, the Rif has always resisted conquest,
though not always successfully.
The Spanish, to whom the region fell when
Morocco was divided up under the French
Protectorate (p68), came face to face with this
intransigence during the uprisings of 1921–6, and
they were soundly defeated at Anoual in 1921. The
history of the Rif and its coastline is closely linked
to that of Spain. For Morocco, the Mediterranean
became a bridgehead for the conquest of Spain.
From the 15th century, Portuguese occupation,
followed by that of the Spanish, cut Morocco off
from the Mediterranean and accelerated its
decline. Spain still maintains a foothold in Ceuta
and Melilla, and on a few rocky islets, and Morocco
is working closely with Spain and Europe to tackle
problems of illegal trafficking and emigration
here. The increase of tourism in Tangier and Ceuta
has resulted in dramatic changes to the area,
including a modern port and airport.
155
MarbellaMarbella
EsteponaEstepona
Jimena deJimena de
Medina Medina la Frontera
la Frontera
Sidonia Sidonia
SPAS
I NP A I NGibraltar Gibraltar
Barbate Barbate International
International
Airport Airport
AlgecirasAlgecirasGibraltarGibraltar
M e d iMt ee rdriat ne reraann e a n
Tarifa Tarifa ltar raltar Sea Sea
ibra ib
o f G of G
CAP tCAP r a i t
t r a i CEUTA CEUTA
t
MALABATA S
MALABATA S
CAP SPARTEL
CAP SPARTEL Tangier Tangier
KSAR ES-
KSAR ES-
GROTTESGROTTES SEGHIRSEGHIR
D’HERCULE
D’HERCULE
Tangier Tangier
Ibn Battuta Airport
Ibn Battuta Airport
TETOUAN
TETOUAN
Asilah Asilah
Souk-el-Arba-
Souk-el-Arba-
u
ou
des-Beni-Hassan
des-Beni-Hassan
ao
Bou Ahmed
Bou Ahmed
a
i L
i L
ad
ad
Souk-Khémis-
Souk-Khémis- TORRESTORRES
W
des-Beni-Arouss
des-Beni-Arouss
Larache Larache EL-JEBHA
EL-JEBHA DE ALCALÁ
DE ALCALÁ
CHEFCHAOUEN
CHEFCHAOUEN Aït- Aït-
Beni-Boufrah Kamara Kamara
Beni-Boufrah
T H T H
Bab-TazaBab-Taza E E
Djebel Khesena
Djebel Khesena I F R I F R
Ksar el-Kebir
Ksar el-Kebir
Oued El Makhazine
Oued El Makhazine 1,695 m 1,695Bab-Berret
m Bab-Berret
Reservoir Reservoir (5,560 ) (5,560 ) Djebel Lebiar
Djebel Lebiar Targuist Targuist
1,381 m 1,381 m KETAMA KETAMA
(4,530 ) (4,530 )
Asjen Asjen Djebel Tidirhine
Djebel Tidirhine
2,448 m 2,448 m
(8,031 ) (8,031 )
OUEZZANE
OUEZZANE
Souk el-Arbaa
Souk el-Arbaa Tahar-Souk
Tahar-Souk
Âïn-Dorij Âïn-Dorij
ba ba
err err
El Wahda El Wahda TaounateTaounate i O u iO
u
Reservoir Reservoir ad a d Teirara
Djebel Djebel Teirara
Jorf el Melha
Jorf el Melha W W1,826 m 1,826 m
Fès-el-Bali
Fès-el-Bali (5,990 ) (5,990 )
Âïn-ÂïchaÂïn-Âïcha
Sidi Yahya-
Sidi Yahya-
du-Rharbdu-Rharb
Tissa Tissa
NORTHERN
NORTHERN
ATLANTIC
ATLANTIC
COASTCOAST Idriss 1er Idriss 1er
p90 p90 Reservoir Reservoir
Moulay Idriss
Moulay Idriss
Zerhoun Zerhoun
Khemis-Âït-
Khemis-Âït-
Yadine Yadine Fès Fès
Fes Sais Fes Sais
International Airport Airport
International Tmourghout
Tmourghou
El-MenzelEl-Menzel
Meknes Meknes Sefrou Sefrou
ImouzzerImouzzer
du Kandar
du Kandar s s
El-Hajeb El-Hajeb la la
MEDITERRANEAN
MEDITERRANEAN
COAST COAST t t Talzem
Talzemt
AND THEAND
RIF THE RIF A A
Skoura Skoura
Ifrane Ifrane
l e l e
Azrou Azrou ImouzzerImouzzer
Boulemaned
Boulemane d Marmoucha
Marmoucha
i d i d
M M
MEDITERRANEAN
COAST AND THE RIF
Must Sees 10 Ceuta
1 Tetouan 11 Torres de Alcalá
2 Chefchaouen 12 Al-Hoceima
3 The Rif 13 Ouezzane
14 Nador
Experience More
15 Cap des Trois Fourches
4 Ketama
16 Melilla
5 El-Jebha
17 Moulouya Estuary
6 Cap Spartel
18 Saïdia
7 Cap Malabata
19 Zegzel Gorge
8 Ksar es-Seghir
20 Oujda
9 Grottes d’Hercule
CAP DESCAP DES

TROIS FOURCHES
TROIS FOURCHES
Melilla AirportMELILLA
Melilla Airport MELILLA
AL-HOCEIMA
AL-HOCEIMA Aazanèn Aazanèn Beni Enzar
Beni Enzar
Al HoceimaAl Hoceima Ras Kebdana
Ras Kebdana
CherifAirport
Cherif Al Idrissi Al Idrissi Airport NADORNADOR SAÏDIA SAÏDIA
Qariat Qariat
Im Zouren
Im Zouren NedromaNedroma
ArkmaneArkmane MOULOUYA MOULOUYA
Ben-Tieb Ben-Tieb ESTUARY ESTUARY
Driouch Driouch
Zaïo Zaïo
Ahfir A
Ahfir LGA E LR GI AE R I A
Kech-Kech Kech-Kech
1,613 m 1,613 m Midar Midar y a y a Berkane Berkane
u u Maghnia Maghnia
(5,291 ) (5,291 ) lo lo
Et-Tleta- Et-Tleta- ou ou ZEGZELZEGZEL Oujda Oujda
Kassita KassitaBou-Beker M M
Bou-Beker GORGE GORGE Airport Airport
di
di
Wa
Wa
Mechrâ- Mechrâ- Sidi- Sidi- OUJDA OUJDA

Hamadi Hamadi Bouhria Bouhria Sidi- Sidi-
Aknoul Aknoul Saka Saka Yahia Yahia
Melga-el-Melga-el-
Ouidane Ouidane El-Âïoun El-Âïoun
Dar-Caïd-Medboh
Dar-Caïd-Medboh
Jerada Jerada
Taza Taza MIDDLE

MIDDLE
ATLASATLAS
Guercif Guercif p212 p212
Ain Bni Mathar

Ain Bni Mathar
Debdou Debdou
ut Mahirija Mahirija
Tindite Tindite
mt
0 kilometres
0 kilometres
30 30 N N
Outat el Haj
Outat el Haj
EXPERIENCE Mediterranean Coast and The Rif
Tetouan’s Ville Nouvelle

and Jbel Dersa providing
the backdrop to the medina
and the square come to life in

1 the evenings with the paseo
TETOUAN
(promenade), a Spanish
custom that is more deeply
ingrained in Tetouan than
! D1 k 5 km (3 miles) £ Tnine-Sidi-Lyamani
anywhere else in Morocco.
n 30 Boulevard Mohammed V; (0539) 96 19 15
In the words of Arab poets, Tetouan is “the daughter of

Granada”. Built partly on the slopes of Jbel Dersa, the 2"'
town was inhabited by Jewish refugees from Granada Musée Archéologique
in the 15th century, then by Andalusian Moors in the ⌂ Avenue Ben H'sain, near
17th century. Up to the 18th century, it was a centre Place Hassan II § (0539) 96
of thriving trade with Europe, becoming a city-state 73 03 # 9am–4pm Wed–Mon
comparable to Florence or Venice. Later, the Spanish The collections of Tetouan's
made it their capital during the Protectorate. Archaeological Museum
contain objects discovered
Place Hassan II links Ville at Volubilis, Lixus and Thamuda,
1 Nouvelle and the medina. a Roman site on the outskirts
Ville Nouvelle Modern tiling has replaced of Tetouan (on the road to
the old mosaic decoration of Chefchaouen). Several mosaics
⌂ Place Moulay el-Mehdi &
the royal palace on the side are on display, including a
Boulevard Mohammed V
of the square nearest the depiction of the Three Graces
It is on Place Moulay el-Mehdi, medina. Both the boulevard of classical mythology, as well
sometimes still referred to as
Place Primo (after the Spanish
politician José Primo de Rivera), TETOUAN’S JEWISH POPULATION
that the Spanish colonial archi- A large Jewish community, expelled from Spain at the end
tecture of Ville Nouvelle (New of the Christian Reconquest, settled in Tetouan, thrived
Town) is at its most eloquent. and reached its height in the 16th century. Exploiting their
With a main post office, bank contacts in Europe, Tetouan’s Jews played a central role in
and church (1926), the square the economic life of the town, and through them it became
looks like any other central an important trade link with the West. At the beginning
town square in Spain. Elegant of the 19th century, subjected to violence and heavy taxes,
homes with doors, windows the Jews repaired to a quarter of their own, the judería.
and balconies with Moorish- Marginalized in their professional and social lives, many
style ornamentation are seen left for Melilla, Gibraltar, Iran, and Latin America. By the
on Boulevard Mohammed V, 1990s, there were no more than 200 Jews left in Tetouan.
the town’s principal artery.
158
Must See
as pottery, coins, and bronzes. for its impressive white build-
The most interesting exhibits – ings and its paving. Sellers
ancient inscriptions, mosaic of fabrics and pottery fill
EAT
floors and Muslim funerary the small shady square where
stelae with the Star of David – the El-Houts Souk takes place.
are laid out in the garden. It leads to the former mellah,
where the balconied houses Blanco Riad Hotel
have large windows, wrought- Modern Moroccan
iron gates and arcaded façades. cuisine served in a
3= charming riad patio
Medina and garden in Tetouan’s
medina. The restaurant
⌂ Entry through Place 4"' is popular among locals
Hassan II, then via Rue
Musée d’Ethnographie and visitors, so be sure
Ahmed Torres to the to book ahead.
southeast ⌂ Zankat Sqala, near Bab
⌂ Rue Zawiya Kadiria
Oqla § (0539) 97 05 05
Tetouan’s medina, a UNESCO ∑ blancoriad.com
# 9am–4pm Wed–Mon
World Heritage Site, is the 
most clearly Andalusian in all Occupying a bastion built in
Morocco. Emigrants from Spain 1828, the museum is laid out
in the 15th and 17th centuries as an Andalusian palace with a Restaurant Cap
implanted their architectural garden, a fountain clad in zellij Marina
traditions here, including a tilework, and red-tiled awnings. Offering a fine ocean
view from the interior
taste for wrought-iron deco- The furniture, crafts, costumes
and the outdoor terrace,
ration and doors with elabor- and musical instruments typify
the Cap Marina serves
ate metal fittings. the town’s traditions. Tetouani
an array of Moroccan,
The aroma of spices, freshly rooms with marriage scenes
Mediterranean and
sawn wood and kesra (bread) have also been recreated.
international cuisine.
fills the narrow streets, squares The Craft School, opposite
and souks, which bustle with Bab Oqla, occupies a Moorish- ⌂ Marina Smir, Route
de Sebta ∑ marina
carpenters, tanners and sellers style residence. Specializing
smirhotel.com
of secondhand goods. Rue El- in local traditions, the school
Mokadem (between Place Souk teaches leatherwork, mosaic- 
el-Fouqui and Place Gharsa el- making, carpet-weaving and
Kebira) is densely packed with plasterwork. The work is exhi-
shops, but is also noteworthy bited in a domed hall.
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159
Children sitting in a
peaceful blue square in
Chefchaouen’s medina
2 3
CHEFCHAOUEN
Fondouk
⌂ Corner of Place Uta el-
Hammam & Rue Al-Andalus
! D1 @ From Tangier
The fondouk still serves its
Chefchaouen nestles in the hollow of two mountains – original purpose, taking in
ech-Chaoua (The Horns) – from which it takes its name. travellers and passing traders.
It was founded in 1471 by Idrissid shorfa (descendants It is a building of strikingly
of the Prophet Mohammed) as a stronghold against the simple design, with a gallery
of semicircular arches lining
Portuguese. Steep narrow streets with bright blue build- the pebblepaved courtyard.
ings, small squares, ornate fountains, decorative door- The only contrast to this
ways and red-tiled roofs make this a delightful town. simplicity is provided by the
main entrance, surmounted
crowned by a pavilion of by an awning and framed by
1-= green tiles. With a plethora a broken horseshoe arch and
Place Uta el-Hammam of shops and cafés, this is an interlacing arches.
All the streets of the medina ideal place for a relaxed stroll.
converge in this pleasant
square, making it one of the
focal points in the city. It is 4"
lined with trees and paved 2 Kasbah and Museum
with stones and pebbles, and Grand Mosque
⌂ West corner of Place Uta
in the centre stands a fountain
⌂ Place Uta el-Hammam el-Hammam # 10am–5pm
decorated with arches and
¢ To non-Muslims Wed–Mon (till 1pm Fri)
Chefchaouen’s Grand Mosque The kasbah, with its crenel

PICTURE PERFECT was founded around the 16th lated walls of red beaten earth
Spanish Mosque century and has been remodel and ten bastions, is the heart
Follow the trail out of led several times since. The later of the town. The fortress was
the medina’s east gate, minaret, which dates from the
across the river and up 17th century, has a distinctive
the hill to the Spanish octagonal shape and is deco The kasbah, with its
Mosque. Your reward rated with three tiers of plain crenellated walls of
for the 30-minute walk and lobed arches on a painted red beaten earth and
is the terrific views of ochre background. The upper
Chefchaouen below. most tier is decorated with ten bastions, is the
zellij tilework. heart of the town.
160
Must See
begun in the 15th century by
Moulay Ali ben Rachid and 5=
completed by Moulay Ismaïl Medina
in the 17th century, showing A small street running between WHY SO BLUE?
an Andalusian influence. A the kasbah and the Grand Although founded in
delightful garden is laid out Mosque leads to the Souïka 1471, Chefchaouen did
within, with good views of the district, the oldest in town not take on its distinc
walls and the rampart walk. with the finest houses. The tive colour until 1492,
The Musée Ethnographique name souïka, meaning “little when the town took in
occupies the residence in the market”, comes from the an influx of Jews fleeing
garden. This is a traditional district’s kissaria, where there the Spanish Inquisition.
Moroccan house with a court are many small shops along They brought with them
yard and gallery on the first its narrow streets. a tradition of painting
floor. The museum contains The medina contains more buildings blue because,
displays of pottery, armour, than 100 weavers’ workshops. it is said, the colour
embroidery, costumes, musical Indeed, Chefchaouen is famous mirrors the sky and
instruments and palanquins, for the woollen jellabas woven reminds them of God.
as well as a collection of here, as well as for the redand
painted wooden chests. whitestriped fabrics worn by
the women of the Jebala, a was the reason the town’s
tribe of the western Rif. One first inhabitants settled here.
such workshop is located in It also accounts for the town’s
Rue Ben Dibane and is conspic lush gardens and powers the
uous for its exterior stairway. mills. Steps leading towards
the metalled road run along
side the washhouses, then
the mills, whose origins go
6- back to the arrival of the
Ras el-Ma and the Mills town’s Andalusian refugees.
The steep streets of AlAndalus The route then leads to the
leading towards the mountain bridge across Wadi Laou, a
pass through Bab Onsar, the semicircular arch with bevelled
town’s northeast gateway. buttresses. With its cascades,
Sacks of colourful Beyond is the spring of Ras washhouses and cafés, this
paint powder, elMa, now enclosed by a build is one of the most pleasant
in Chefchaouen ing. This underground spring quarters of Chefchaouen.
Bab
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161
3
THE RIF
! D1–E1 n Casa Hassan, 22 Rue Targui, Chefchaouen; www.casahassan.com
The mountains of the Rif rise sharply from the Mediterranean to the east of Tangier
and roll in rugged fashion all the way to the border with Algeria. Not as high as the
Atlas, they nonetheless offer stunning scenery, great trekking opportunities and
picturesque hilltop towns and villages.
This region is well known for its atmospheric capes, gorges and curious rock formations.
and beautiful medinas, notably Chefchaouen Ramblers and those with four-wheel-drives
(p160). Covering an area of some 30,000 sq km can visit the protected fir forests of the
(11,580 sq miles), it offers much else besides. Talassemtane National Park, where popular
Among its natural wonders are high mountains, destinations include the small villages of El-
Kelaâ and Akchour, starting points for some
excellent walks. Further east, Route N2
commands breathtaking views of the
mountains and isolated villages as it climbs
toward Mount Tidirhine, the highest point in
the Rif at 2,448 m (8,034 ft).
The isolated mountains of the

Talassemtane National Park are a
tranquil home for Barbary macaques
162
Must See
EXPERIENCE MORE
4
Ketama
Did You Know?
! D2 ⌂ 107 km (66 miles)
Morocco reputedly
east of Chefchaouen on the
produces half of the
N2, the Route des Crêtes
world’s hashish;
(Ridge Road)
most of it is grown
Located in the heart of a in the Rif.
forest, Ketama was once a
popular summer and winter
resort known for its hunting
and fishing, but the presence 5
and perseverance of the illegal El-Jebha
kif and hashish salesmen that
! D1 ⌂ 137 km (85 miles)
have coopted the town, and
east of Tetouan along the
the law enforcement they
coastal road N16; 73 km
attract, will give most visitors
(45 miles) from Ketama on
cause to move on.
the N2 then the P4115
Leaving the town, the road
leading eastwards reveals the The small fishing town of El-
slopes of Jbel Tidirhin (or Jbel Jebha nestles at the end of
Tidiquin), the highest peak Fishermen’s Point. Its one-
in the Rif mountain range. In storey, cube-like houses,
In spring, the Rif is awash the valleys, the houses have covered in white roughcast,
with colour as wildflowers pitched roofs, with a covering give it something of a
burst into bloom of planks and corrugated Mediterranean air. To the
metal, the modern substitute right of the harbour, where
for thatch. In some villages, lamparo boats (which use
such as Taghzoute, the ancient lamps to attract fish) are
KIF craft of leather embroidery moored, is Crayfish Cove, an
Kif (cannabis) crops has been passed on through ideal fishing spot. On the left,
underpin the Riffian the generations and is still a soft sandy beach stretches
economy. Although very much alive. away towards the west.
growing and smoking
it are tolerated on a
localized basis, its
commercial exploit-
ation is illegal, resulting
in a major smuggling
trade, which the
Moroccan authorities
are fighting with
assistance from the
European Union.
A small boat moored in the cove near the small

town of El-Jebha, a perfect spot for fishing
163
Did You Know?
Cap Spartel is the
most northwesterly
point on the African
continent.
EXPERIENCE The Mediterranean Coast and The Rif
a casino before being

shut down. Its future is
now uncertain.
The road ascending the
The famous Cap Spartel lighthouse sits hills passes through pine
some 300 m (1,000 feet) above sea level forests and by many small
coves with cafés blessed with
an old-world charm. Just
dating from 1865. From before the cape, a strange
6 beneath the lighthouse, there medieval-style building
Cap Spartel is a breathtaking view of the appears, the work of a
stretch of ocean where the whimsical Italian, who left
! D1 ⌂ 14 km (9 miles)
Mediterranean and Atlantic it unfinished in the 1930s.
west of Tangier
meet, and on an especially The view from Cap Malabata
From Tangier, the road leading clear day you can see the is stunning, especially in the
to Cap Spartel runs through strait and coast of Spain all morning, looking westwards
La Montagne, the city’s the way from Cape Trafalgar over the city and suburbs of
western suburb, which is to the Rock of Gibraltar. Tangier and across to the
bathed in the perfume of Straits of Gibraltar, and
eucalyptus and mimosa. Long eastwards to Jbel Moussa.
walls surround the residences
of Moroccan, Kuwaiti and 7
Saudi kings and princes Cap Malabata
and the luxury villas dating
! D1 ⌂ 12 km (7.5 miles)
from the golden age of
east of Tangier
Tangier’s international period.
Beyond stretch forests of The route out of Tangier skirts
holm oak, cork oak, umbrella an area of large tourist hotels
pine, mastic tree, broom and and continues eastwards
heather, which all flourish round the curve of the bay.
here, watered by the highest Soon after a tiny estuary, at
rainfall in Morocco. the edge of the road, are the
At the cape is the prom- remains of a 16th-century
ontory known in antiquity as fortress, from which Moroccan
Cape Ampelusium, or Cape of soldiers could watch and attack
the Vines, and a lighthouse the Portuguese, Spanish and
English occupiers as they
approached of Tangier.
INSIDER TIP Nearby, white crenellated
Getting Around walls surround the lush and
If you don’t have a car, extensive grounds of the Villa
Cap Spartel and Cap Harris. It was once the resi-
Malabata are best dence of Walter Harris, a
reached by grand taxi journalist and diplomatic
from the nearest town. correspondent for The Times.
A round trip from Grand Harris chronicled life in Tangier
Socco in Tangier will set for many years at the turn of
you back around Dh 200. the 20th century. After his
Be sure to agree your death, the resplendent villa The conspicuous Jabala
fare before setting off. was given to the people of women at the Saturday
Tangier and it was briefly Souk in Ksar es-Seghir
164
8 9"
Ksar es-Seghir Grottes d’Hercule
! D1 ⌂ 33 km (20 miles) ! D1 ⌂ 5 km (3 miles)
east of Tangier southwest of Cap Spartel
A town with a small fishing At the place known as Achakar,

harbour and a fine beach, the sea has carved impressive
Ksar es-Seghir faces the caves out of the cliff. The
Spanish town of Tarifa across people who, from prehistoric
the Straits of Gibraltar. The times came to these caves,
souk that takes place here knapped stones here and
every Saturday is filled with quarried millstones for use in
women of the Rif, conspicuous oil presses. The opening to
in their red-and white- the caves, facing out onto the
striped foutas. sea, is a cleft shaped like a Ancient quarry marks
Forts have stood on this mirror image of Africa. lining the walls of the
well-sheltered spot on an According to the legend, Caves of Hercules
estuary since the 17th century, Hercules slept here before
and it was from here that performing one of his 12
Moroccan troops set sail for labours – stealing the golden after which the light of the
Spain, and the Almohads apples from the Garden of the setting sun can be enjoyed
made it an important centre Hesperides – and it was long from the cafés nearby. Further
for shipbuilding. In a small thought to be bottomless. south, beneath the level of
forest are the remains of a The location of the legendary the caves, are the Ruins of
town built by the Merinids garden belonging to these Cotta (1st century BC to 3rd
in the 14th century. The nymphs of darkness and century AD). With vats for
Portuguese held the town guarded by a dragon with salting fish, making garum
from 1458 to 1549, and 100 heads is said to be further and producing purple dye,
strengthened it with new south, near Lixus. this was one of the largest
fortifications that reached The best time to visit the industrial centres of the Punic
as far as the sea. caves is in the late afternoon, and Mauretanian periods.
165
A few dozen trawlers are usually
moored in Al-Hoceima’s small harbour;
in the evenings, the lamparos are lit up,
ready for a night’s fishing.
affords views over the town,

10 the mountains and coast of
Ceuta the Rif and Gibraltar, especially

from the lighthouse at Punto
! D1 ⌂ 63 km (39 miles)
Almina. The Castillo del
east of Tangier n Calle
Desnarigado, a fortress that
Edrissis, Edif Baluarte de
is now a military museum,
los Mallorquines; www.
encloses the Ermita de San
destinoceuta.com
Antonio. This chapel draws a
Standing on a narrow isthmus large pilgrimage on 13 June
between Monte Hacho and each year.
the mainland, Ceuta occupies The Plaza de Africa is, in
a favourable location opposite architectural terms, the centre
Gibraltar. The Rock of Gibraltar of the town, where the main
and Monte Hacho are the two public buildings are concen-
legendary Pillars of Hercules. trated. The cathedral, whose
From the 12th century present appearance dates
onwards, the town was visited from the 18th century, stands
by traders from Genoa, Pisa, on the site of a Grand Mosque.
Mareille and Catalonia among A range of religious paintings The Ayuntamiento (town hall)
others. In 1415, Ceuta became and liturgical objects are on will be of interest to visitors
a Portuguese enclave, then display in its museum. for its paintings by Mariano
passed to Spain in 1578. Nuestra Señora de Africa Bertuchi, known as “the great
Today it is an important (Church of Our Lady of Africa) painter of the Protectorate.”
garrison town. Its livelihood was built in the early 18th The Museo Municipal El
depends mainly on the tax- century, also on the site of RevellÍn (Archaeological
free trade that its status as a mosque, in an arresting Museum) is laid out above
a free port allows. Ceuta (like Baroque style. On the high underground passages dug in
Melilla) is a self-governing altar stands a statue of the the 16th and 17th centuries to
town within the Spanish state. Virgin, patroness of Ceuta, who supply the town with water.
Morocco views the Spanish is believed to have saved the The displays include Neolithic,
presence as anachronistic and town from the plague in the Carthaginian and Roman
claims sovereignty. 16th century. The treasury pottery, including amphorae,
The 12-km (7.5-mile) circuit contains some fine paintings, as well as coins and armour.
of Monte Hacho (part of it is banners and 17th-century Through maps, photographs
accessible by road) illuminated books. and visual displays, the Museo
de la Legión documents the
activities of the Spanish
Foreign Legion and its efforts
in 1921–6 to subdue the Rif
uprising and the rebel leader
Abdel Krim. The legion, formed
in 1920, suffered serious losses
during this war.
Museo Municipal
El RevellÍn
" ⌂ On the corner of Paseo
de Revellín and Calle
Ingenieros § (0956) 51 73 98
# 11am–2pm, 5–9pm Tue–Sat
(11am–2pm public hols)
Museo de la Legión
The Baroque frontispiece of Nuestra Señora de " ⌂ Paseo de Colón
Africa, facing on to its chequered forecourt # 9am–5pm Mon–Sat
166
Fishing boats moored in
the pretty harbour of
Al-Hoceima
The souk at Im Zouren,

17 km (10 miles) east on
the road to Nador, is unusual:
for the first few hours in the
day, only women may go
there. Both Im Zouren and
Beni Bou Ayach, large market
towns on the road out of Al-
Hoceima, have a slightly
unreal appearance, created
by largely empty residential
blocks painted in ochres,
blues, greens and pinks. The
towns come to life for only a
few weeks of the year, when
emigrant workers who base
themselves in Germany and
the Netherlands return home.
TOP
11 12 5 NORTH COAST
BEACHES
Torres de Alcalá Al-Hoceima
! D1 ⌂ 144 km (89 miles) ! E1 k 17 km (10 miles) SW Cap Spartel
! D1 ⌂ West of Tangier
from Chefchaouen and 72 @ n Zankat Al Bahia;
Many small coves with
km (45 miles) from Ketama (0539) 98 11 85
sandy beaches, from
on the N2 then the P5205
This ancient port, seat of the which Robinson Beach
Located on the estuary of emirate of Nokour during the stands out as ideal.
Wadi Bou Frah, the fishing Middle Ages, was long the
village of Torres de Alcalá lies object of dispute between Mrissa
at the foot of a peak crowned European traders. The modern ! D1 ⌂ East of Tangier
by a five towers – the ruins of town was founded in 1926 by Fine, soft sand beneath
a Spanish fortress dating to José Sanjurjo, a lieutenant Cap Malabata, sheltered
the 16th century. About 5 km general of the Spanish Army, by stands of pine.
(3 miles) further east is Peñon in the spot where his garrison
de Velez de la Gomera, a tiny landed, and was known M’diq
island fortress attached to the initially as Villa Sanjurjo. ! D1 ⌂ South of Ceuta
mainland by a narrow spit of The town’s location is one Down to earth, with a
sand, one of several of its kind of the most beautiful along shell-scattered beach
found on the coast of North Morocco’s Mediterranean and blue-and-white-
Africa. Held by the Spanish trimmed seafront.
coast. Whitewashed houses
from 1508 to 1522, it later line the bay – an almost perfect
Martil
became a hideout for pirates semicircle between two hilly
! D1 ⌂ East of Tetuoan
and privateers during Turkish promontories. The coastline
A backdrop of lush
occupation. A convict station to the east, opposite Peñon de
green mountains and a
under the Protectorate, it Alhucemas, a small island held
pleasant boardwalk
remains under Spanish by Spain, commands the most lined with cafés.
sovereignty today. impressive view of the bay.
Some 4 km (2.5 miles) west A few dozen trawlers are Saidia
of Peñon de Velez de la Gomera usually moored in Al-Hoceima’s ! D1 ⌂ Northwest of Oujda
is Kalah Iris, a cove that is now small harbour; in the evenings, One of the loveliest
part of Al-Hoceima National the lamparos are lit up, ready Mediterranean beaches
Park and is an oasis of calm for a night’s fishing. Plage in Morocco, unusually
outside the summer season, Quemado, stretching out in overlooked by a kasbah.
though new developments front of the town, is better
are underway. than other nearby beaches.
167
(sherif) played a prominent or loaded on to the backs
religious and political role of women and children. The
in Morocco. The sherif of goods are then disposed of
Ouezzane’s policy of openness in broad daylight in two
also assisted trade relations huge markets in Nador.
with France. The Zaouia (Green Beni Enzar, on the edge of
Mosque) and, with its zellij Nador, is the foremost fishing
covered minaret, the Mosque port on the Mediterranean
of Moulay Abdallah Cherif, coast, and it also has modern
founder of the Taïbia brother naval dockyards.

hood, attract many pilgrims.
Jews also come to Asjen, 8
km (5 miles) west of the town,
to venerate the tomb of Rabbi 15
Abraham ben Diouanne, who Cap des Trois
died in about 1780. The pilgrim Fourches
age that takes place 33 days
! E1 ⌂ 30 km (18 miles)
Stunning views and after Easter is an oppurtunity
from Melilla by road
aquamarine waters at for Morocco’s Jewish commu
then track
Cap des Trois Fourches nity to acknowledge its alle
giance to the king. The road from Beni Enzar to
the Cap des Trois Fourches
offers some stunning views of
13 Melilla and the Mediterranean.
Ouezzane r The part of the cape beyond
Nador the Charrana lighthouse is
! D2 ⌂ 60 km (37 miles)
one of the most beautiful
south of Chefchaouen @ ! E1 ⌂ 154 km (96 miles)
promontories in Morocco.
east of Al-Hoceima, 13 km (8
Known for its textiles (jellabas The cape is lined with bays
miles) south of Melilla @ g
and carpets) and olive oil, this and beaches nestling against
large market town spreads out With wide avenues, shops, a the rocky coast. However, the
over the slopes of Jbel Bou multitude of cafés, restaurants coast road is a challenging
Hillal, in an extensive land and hotels, banks and residen drive, so care should be taken.
scape of olive groves and tial blocks, Nador, somewhat
plantations of fig trees fed unexpectedly, has all the
by abundant springs. trappings of a major town.
In the 15th century, the Nador’s dramatic economic
mainly Andalusian town also growth has been fuelled both
counted many Jews among its by its traditional industries,
inhabitants. In 1727, a descen such as metallurgy, and by
dant of Sultan Idriss II estab modern ones, namely textiles,
lished the religious brother chemicals and electrics. The
hood of the Taïbia, whose waves of emigration that have
influence spread throughout affected the whole of the
Morocco, Algeria and Tunisia. eastern Rif have also contri
In the 19th century, the shorfa buted significantly to Nador’s
development. While immi
grants here are key investors
INSIDER TIP and consumers, funds sent
Charanna Beach home by foreign workers have
Just beyond the Cap des swelled the town’s economy.
Trois Fourches, Charana Nador’s proximity to the
beach is a favourite Spanish enclave of Melilla
among the locals. To get also accounts for the town’s
there requires a car, and prosperity, through illegal
beachgoers must follow trafficking. Through well
a steep, winding dirt oiled channels, goods cross
trail by foot to reach the the border at many points,
pristine sands, secluded including Beni Enzar, the
coves and shallow border post nearest Melilla.
lagoon that extends Small consignments cross Melilla’s city walls,
below the hillside. over here several times lighthouse and harbour
a day, packed in trucks on a rocky peninsula
168
Puerta de la Marina, underwent rapid develop
ment thanks to its status as a
the main entrance to
free zone. However, Moroccan
the fortress, leads independence and the closure Did You Know?
to a tracery of alleys, of the border with Algeria cut One of the poorest
vaulted passages, it off from the hinterland. regions of Morocco, the
While consumer demand
steps and small Rif has historically
has contributed to a thriving been a centre of
squares, some with illegal trade, which creates insurrection.
a chapel or church. the appearance of prosperity,
the town is now experiencing
economic difficulty.
Set on a rocky peninsula Phoenician, Carthaginian and
16 and enclosed within 16th Roman periods are represen
Melilla and 17thcentury walls is the ted by ceramics, coins and
fortress of Melilla la Vieja. bracelets discovered nearby.
! E1 ⌂ 167 km (104 miles)
Puerta de la Marina, the main Various stone implements
east of Al-Hoceima and 153
entrance to the fortress, leads from the western Sahara are
km (95 miles) northwest
through to a tracery of alleys, also exhibited here.
of Oujda @ n Information
vaulted passages, steps and The circular Plaza de España
office near Plaza de Toros;
small squares, some with a links the old town with the
(952) 67 54 44
chapel or church. new. Avenida del Rey Juan
Although 40 per cent of the The church of La Purísima Carlos is the new town’s
population of the Spanish Concepción, in the northwest busiest street.
town of Melilla is Moroccan, of the old town, contains some
the way of life here is still fine Baroque altarpieces; on Museos de Historia,
very Andalusian. the high altar stands an 18th Arqueología y Ethnografía
It was once a Carthaginian, century statue of Our Lady of " ⌂ Plaza Pedro de Estopinan
then a Roman, trading post. Victory, patron saint of Melilla. # Summer: 10am–2pm &
Melilla was a busy port during Behind the church and along 5–9pm Tue–Sat; winter:
the Middle Ages and has been the ramparts is the Museos 10am–2pm & 4–8pm
in Spanish hands since 1497. de Historia, Arqueología y Tue–Sat, 10am–2pm Sun
Under the Protectorate, Melilla Ethnografía. Here, Melilla’s ∑ museomelilla.es
The vegetation in this area is
u equally diverse: spurge and
Moulouya Estuary sea holly grow on the dunes,
while glasswort, reeds and
! F1 ⌂ From Nador to Ras
rushes cover the marshes,
Kebdana, then on to Saïdia,
which are the habitat of
road N16
dragonflies, grasshoppers
The whole area between the and sand spiders.
Bou Areg lagoon and the
estuary of Wadi Moulouya is

a rich and fascinating nature
reserve. A great variety of 18
birds – including dunlin, Saïdia
plover, oystercatcher, little
! F1 ⌂ 50 km (31 miles)
egret, redshank, black-tailed
northwest of Oujda @
godwit and flamingos, terns,
and different species of gulls – At the northern extremity
come to spend the winter in of the fertile Triffa plain, an
this marshy area. The dunes agricultural and wine-growing
are home to woodcock, region, is the little town of
plovers, herons and storks. Saïdia, located on the Wadi
Kiss estuary. The last 20 km
(12 miles) before the river
GREAT VIEW reaches the sea constitutes
Beni-Snassen the border between Morocco
Mountain Road and Algeria, making it quickly booked up in summer.
This mountain road strategically useful to In July and August the beach
winds up the hillsides Sultan Hassan I, who built becomes crowded with
and threads its way a kasbah here at the end Moroccan tourists, who flock
above dramatic preci of the 19th century. here for the annual Festival
pices. Some days there Saïdia is a coastal resort des Plages, a folk arts festival
is a view of the Angad with one of Morocco’s longest with an eclectic programme of
plain, where the town and most beautiful beaches, artists, live music and events.
of Oujda was built. At edged with mimosa and
the highest point, Jbel eucalyptus, earning the town
Fourhal is partly covered the name “Blue Pearl”. Being
with forests of holm oak one of the country’s most 19
and scarred by areas of popular attractions, it has Zegzel Gorge
limestone scree. several modern hotels over-
! F1 ⌂ Berkane, 60km
looking the beach these are
(37 miles) from Oujda
Some of the country’s most

dramatic scenery can be
experienced on the route
from Berkane to Taforalt.
The mountain follows the
course of the fast-flowing
Wadi Zegzel river as it carves
its way through deep gorges
and cuts along valleys and
red, sloping hillsides. Many
caves have been hollowed
out of the cliff by the action
of water, such as the Grotte
de Tghasrout and the Grotte
du Chameau (Camel Cave).
The latter was carved out of
The illuminated
entrance to the Medina
Saidia Shopping arcade
170
STAY
Blanco Riad
A former Spanish
consulate then home of
the ruler of Tetouan,
now the city’s first
boutique hotel.
! D1 ⌂ 25 Rue Zawiya
Kadiria, Tétouan
∑ blancoriad.com

Lina Ryad & Spa

Attractive Andalusian-
style quarters in the
heart of Chefchaouen’s
ancient medina, with a
gorgeous hammam and
swimming pool. Rooms
are spacious and bright,
the mountain-side by an Sun setting on the with fantastic views of
underground hot stream and ramparts and palms on the surrounding peaks.
contains several great halls Oujda’s promenade ! D1 ⌂ Avenue Hassan I,
of impressive stalactites and Quartier Andalous,
stalagmites. Continuing along Medina, Chefchaouen
this road there are breath- shops, banks and several ∑ linaryad.com
taking views of the Beni- large brasseries with spacious

snassen mountains, dotted terraces, are concentrated
with villages and marabouts. around Place du 16 Août 1953,
Grown on terraces carved into with its municipal clocktower, Casa Hassan
the hillside, almond trees are and on Avenue Mohammed V. Beautiful pastel-
widely cultivated in this region. The medina, still partly coloured, traditional
Their blossom adds a splash of enclosed by ramparts, is much riad in the medina, with
colour to the otherwise harsh, smaller than that of Fès and an excellent sister
high limestone environment. Marrakech, is easy to explore, restaurant sitting just
Road P6017 then road N2 lead being small enough to wander across the street.
back to Oujda, or Berkane via about in. Rue el-Mazouzi, a ! D1 ⌂ 22 Rue Targhi,
Ahfir, a small town established major axis, crosses the Medina, Chefchaouen
by the French in 1910. Though medina from west to east, ∑ casahassam.com
it is possible to find a decent ending at Bab Sidi Abdel 
meal in Ahfir, it is best to Ouahab. Various souks are
take a picnic, as shops and located on this main street, or
restaurants are relatively few wind their way off it.
and far between. The kissaria, which is lined
with arcades, has shops selling Just 6 km (4 miles) east of
various types of textiles, Oujda is Sidi Yahia, an oasis
kaftans and velvets as well as with abundant springs.
20 looms and skeins of wool. The Nearby is the tomb of Sidi
Oujda small squares where the El-Ma Yahia ben Younes, patron
Souk (Water Market) and the saint of Oujda. Venerated by
! F2 k 15 km (9 miles)
Attarine Souk take place Muslims, Jews and Christians
£ @ n Place du 16 Août
contain trees and fountains, alike, he is often equated with
1953; (0536) 68 56 31, and
and are the living centre of John the Baptist.
railway station
the medina.
The history of Oujda has been The Musée Ethnographique, Musée Ethnographique
shaped by its geographical outside the ramparts, contains " ⌂ Parc Lalla Meriem
location on a crossroads. In local costumes and items § (0536) 68 56 31
the Ville Nouvelle, the main relating to life in the region. # Daily
171
Ornate doors of the Royal Palace, Fès
FÈS
Located between the fertile lands of the Saïs
and the forests of the Middle Atlas, Fès is the
oldest of Morocco’s imperial cities. It is the
embodiment of the country’s history and its
spiritual and religious capital, and as such was
declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1981.
Idriss I founded Madinat Fas, on the right
bank of the River Fès, in 789. In 808, his son,
Idriss II, built another establishment, El-Alya
(High Town), on the left bank. In 818, both received
hundreds of Muslim refugees expelled from
Córdoba and Kairouan, in Tunisia. Within a few
years, thanks to these two communities, the
two towns became central to the Arabization
and Islamization of Morocco.
In the mid-11th century, the Almoravids united
the two towns, only for the Almohads to take what
was then a city in 1145, after a long siege. Fès
then became the country’s foremost cultural and
economic metropolis, thanks in large part to the
founding of its university. In 1250, the Merinids
raised Fès to the status of imperial capital. To the
west of the old city they established a new royal
one, Fès el-Jedid (New Fès). Conquered by the
Alaouites in 1666, Fès was spurned by Moulay
Ismaïl, who chose Meknès as his capital. The city’s
decline continued until the early 20th century.
When the Protectorate was established in
1912, the Ville Nouvelle (New Town) was built.
This was populated by the prosperous citizens
of the old medina, while the rootless and poor
crowded into the old city of Fès el-Bali.
173
S S
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Tanners' Quarter
Tanners' Quarter
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Karaouiyine Mosque Mosque EL KEDDANE
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FÈS
Must Sees 11 Karaouiyine Mosque
1 Musée Dar el-Blatha 12 El-Attarine Medersa
2 Bou Inania Medersa e El-Cherratine Medersa
3 Fès el-Jedid 14 Tanners’ Quarter
15 Place el-Seffarine
Experience More
16 Andalusian Mosque
4 Bab Boujeloud
17 Andalusian Quarter
5 Merinid Tombs
18 Bab el-Ftouh
6 Musée des Armes
7 Rue Talaa Kebira Eat
8 The Souks 1 Fez Café
9 Fondouk el-Nejjarine 2 NUR
10 Zaouia of Moulay Idriss II
1"'
MUSÉE DAR
EL-BLATHA
EXPERIENCE Fès
 C2 ⌂ Place du Batha § (0535) 63 41 16 # 9am–4pm Wed–Mon
The palace of Dar el-Batha was begun by Moulay el-Hassan in 1873, and completed
by Moulay Abdel Aziz in 1897. Moulay el-Hassan, who wanted to make the palace a
residence worthy of being used for official receptions, added an imposing courtyard
covered with coloured tiles and featuring a large fountain. He also laid out a large
and very fine Andalusian garden. Despite many later alterations, the traditional
Moorish features of this building have survived.
In 1914 the French scholar Alfred Bel – a right – became the official museum of local
specialist on Near and Far East and Arab crafts (Musée des Arts et des Traditions). The
cultures – made the first bequest to the future collecton is shown in two large sections, one
ethnographic museum. The following year, displaying archaeological exhibits and the
the beautiful palace – a work of art in its own other on ethnography, featuring the arts and
crafts of Fès and neighbouring areas.
Particularly notable is the display tracing the
development of architecture in Fès, from the
Idrissid period to that of the Alaouites.
A beautiful wooden Berber

door, carved and painted with
intricate designs
176
Must See
GALLERY GUIDE
The collections are divided into two Rural Crafts
large sections. The ethnographic
Collection Highlights
section occupies eight rooms with
▼
Objects of everyday life from various regions of
exhibits on the art of the book, Morocco are exhibited in Room 6, including pottery
ceramics, paintings, textiles, jewellery, made by the women of the Rif, carpets from the
wooden doors, genealogy and objects Middle Atlas and fine Berber jewellery (below),
from everyday life. The archaeological such as brooches, pectorals, necklaces, rings and
section is found in the remaining four bracelets. All these show the skills and inventive
rooms and contains displays of zellij ness of Moroccan craftsmen and craftswomen.
tiels and ceramics, wood used in
architecture, archaeology relating
to Islam and funerary stelae. There
is also a workshop where visitors
can watch woodcarvers at work.
Woodwork
▶ The furniture in Room 4
shows both the range of woods

used (cedar, thuya, almond,
walnut, ebony, citron and
Stunning symmetrical tiles mahogany) as well as the
and archways in the palace’s artisans’ incredible skills. Here
inner courtyard visitors will find designs using
many different techniques:
carved and painted or leather
covered furniture, and
furniture with iron fittings,
marquetry decoration and
motherofpearl and ivory inlay.
One highlight is a fine 14th
century Moorish chest, made to
hold the most valuable pieces of
a bride’s trousseau as they
were carried to her new home.
Ceramics
▼
The original location of the potters’ souk, next
to the Karaouiyine Mosque, is proof of the respect
with which the makers of the famous Fès blue and
white ware were held. As well as this pottery,
Room 2 contains dishes and
jebbana (traditional
earthenware
vessels) with
polychrome
decoration
over a white
tin glaze, or
with sboula
The peaceful Andalusian (herringbone)
gardens, added to the design or chebka
by Moulay el-Hassan (scale) motifs.
177
2"=
BOU INANIA
MEDERSA
EXPERIENCE Fès
 C2 ⌂ Rue Talaa Kebira # 9am–6pm daily (except during prayer times)
This is the largest and most sumptuously decorated medersa ever

built by the Merinids. Constructed between 1350 and 1355 by the
sultan Abou Inan, the one-storey building is a mosque, cathedral,
students’ residence and school combined, with the varied functions
reflected in its architectural complexity.
That the Bou Inania Medersa has a minbar (pulpit) and Pitched roofs over
minaret is an indication of the ambition of its builder, the mosque
Sultan Abou Inan. He intended his grand monument to
be not just a theological college, but a rival in religious
authority to the city’s great Karaouiyine Mosque. While
simple in plan, with a square courtyard flanked by two The carved motifs
small, square iwans (halls) and a larger prayer hall, every on the capitals in
surface of the building is covered in complex decoration. the medersa show
Visitors enter directly into the courtyard, which is the Moorish influence.
building’s most outstanding feature. Its floor is marble,
while the walls are decorated in a harmonious
combination of zellij tiling and carved plaster and
wood. The prayer hall is divided from the
courtyard by a long, narrow pool.
THE MEDERSA
The medersas of Fès,
home to some of the
greatest scholars in
the country, were the
most highly esteemed
in Morocco. Primarily
residential colleges,
they were both an
extension of the great
university-mosque and
an important cultural
and religious insti-
tution dedicated to
the study of religion,
law, science and also
the arts.
The mihrab (prayer
hall) is surmounted by
stained-glass windows.
The minbar (1350) is
now in the Musée
Dar el-Batha.
In the medersa, the three decorative

bands always appear in the same
order: geometric tilework below,
cursive script carved into tiles in the
centre, and stuccowork above.
178
Must See
The incredible courtyard

decorated with fine zellij
tilework and stuccowork
The ornate windows of the Richly decorated with zellij
students’ rooms on the tilework, stuccowork and
upper floor are framed by sculpted wood, the façade
stuccowork surmounted runs the gamut of the
by muqarnas (stalactites). Moorish decorative
repertoire.
Exterior and interior

details of the Bou
Inania Medersa
The minaret, one of the

finest in Fès, is decorated
with a frieze featuring
merlons. The lantern is
topped by a similar frieze.
Shops
Main
entrance
Beggar’s
Did You Know?
Gate The reign of Abou Inan
(1351–58) ended when
The magnificent carved wooden screen he was smothered
Student’s cell of the main entrance is framed by sturdy with a pillow by
pillars. The adjacent door, of much plainer his vizier.
Courtyard paved with design, was known as Beggars’ Gate.
marble and onyx
179
EXPERIENCE Fès
The splendid main gateway

to the Dar el-Makhzen
palatial complex
3\-= 2
FÈS EL-JEDID
Moulay Abdallah
Quarter
⌂ Accessible via Bab Boujat
 B3 or Bab Dekaken
Meaning New Fès or White Fès, Fès El-Jedid was built in Completely closed off on its
1276 by Merinid princes as a stronghold against the western side by the palace
threat of the rebellious Fassis. It was the administrative walls and the ramparts of
centre of Morocco up to 1912. Today, Fès el-Jedid Fès el-Jedid, this quarter has
two gateways linked by a
consists of several distinct units: the royal palace and central thoroughfare with a
the Moulay Abdallah Quarter in the west; in the south, lattice-work of narrow streets
the mellah, or Jewish quarter – a maze of dark, narrow leading off it. Bab Dekaken,
streets; and the Muslim quarters in the east. the east gate, leads to the
former méchouar (parade
permanently closed. The walls ground) and Bab Boujat, the
1 enclose a disparate ensemble west gate, pierces the city’s
Dar el-Makhzen of buildings: palaces arranged walls. Nearby, in the main
around courtyards; official street, stands the Grand
¢ To the public
buildings, notably the Dar el- Mosque, a Merinid building
Surrounded by high walls, this Bahia, where Arab summit dating from the 13th century
vast palatial complex in the meetings are held; the Dar that houses the necropolis of
centre of Fès el-Jedid was the Ayad el-Kebira, built in the 18th the sultan Abou Inan. Also
main residence of the sultan, century by Sidi Mohammed on this street, in the direction
together with his guard and ben Abdallah; administrative of Bab Boujat, stands the
his retinue of servants. Part of and military buildings; the Mosque of Moulay Abdallah,
the palace is still used by the Lalla Mina Gardens; a mosque; which was built in the mid-
king of Morocco when he and a medersa, built in 1320. 18th century.
comes to stay in Fès.
The main entrance to the
complex, on the huge Place The Bab el-Semarine (Gate of the Farriers)
des Alaouites has a richly
is a monumental vaulted gateway,
ornamented Moorish gateway
and exquisitely engraved beneath which a souk for all sorts of
bronze doors, which are food takes place.
180
Must See
S
IDE 0 metres 300 N
RIN
MÉ
E DES
NU 0 yards 300
AV E
BI
A L- ARA
SALAH
AVENUE AYOUBI
AL-
EDDINE
Kasbah
Cherarda
IBN
KR
Cimetiere
BA
Bab Segma Cimetiere
U
Bab Mahrouk
AB
A B U B A K R I B N A L- A B I
Bab AR Méchouar de
Segma Bab Dekaken
BI
A L- A R A
N
Grand SA
KR IBN HA
S D
ABU BA Méchouar
AV L' U N
AY
E
EN ES
UL
MO
U E CO
ès Bab VE
Wadi F Makina Jardins
A
el-Seba
de Bou Jeloud
Bab Dekaken
Petit Méchouar
Grand
GR ANDE
Moulay Abdallah Mosque
Quarter
RUE
Mosque Moulay
Abdallah
DE F
Bab
Boujat
ÈS E
MUSLIM
L- J E
Dar el-Makhzen
QUARTERS
D ID Grande Rue de
3 Fès el-Jedid
Grande Rue de Rue Bou Ksissat

O U K S I SS A T
Fès el-Jedid and the RUE B
Muslim Quarters Lalla Mina

IDE
S
Gardens RIN
É
MÉ
RT
S
DE
⌂ Accessible via Bab el- E BE
E
RU LI
Semarine to the south and PLACE
AN
D Mellah LA
DES GR DE
Bab Dekaken to the north
ALAOUITES Danan
N UE
Synagogue
E
AV
The Muslim quarters – Lalla

Btatha, Lalla Ghriba, Zebbala,
Sidi Bounafaa, Boutouil and
Blaghma – are the principal
components of the urban quarters are enclosed by the through the city. The street,
agglomeration that Fassis walls of Dar el-Makhzen to the covered by a cane canopy at
know as Fès el-Jedid. The west, and by a double line of its northern extremity, is lined
walls to the east. Two gateways with shops. This congested
lead into the Muslim quarters; thoroughfare is the economic
Bab Dekaken, on the northern centre of the royal city. At
side, is a simple opening in the intervals it is flanked by quiet
fortifications. On the southern residential quarters with a
side is the Bab el-Semarine maze-like layout typical of
(Gate of the Farriers), a Muslim towns.
monumental vaulted gate- On the western side of the
way, beneath which a souk for street, a small quarter huddles
all sorts of food takes place; around the Lalla el-Azhar
the stalls are laid out in the Mosque (Mosque of the Lady
old Merinid grain stores. Flower), which was built by the
The two gates are connected Merinid sultan Abou Inan in
by Grande Rue de Fès el-Jedid, 1357. On the eastern side are
the main north–south artery the humble quarters inhabited
by families of old warrior tribes.
There are two important
mosques here: Jama el-Hamra
Wall and side entrance to (Red Mosque) with a 14th-
Dar-el-Makhzen royal century minaret, and Jama el-
palace complex Beïda (White Mosque).
181
Interior of the Danan
Synagogue located in the
Mellah (Jewish quarter)
5
Danan Synagogue
EXPERIENCE Fès
⌂ Rue Der el-Feran Teati

# 9am–5pm daily
¢ Jewish Cemetery: Sat
The 17th-century synagogue,

the property of a family of
rabbis from Andalusia, looks
as if it has been squeezed in
between the houses in the
mellah. The building has
some mosaic tile decoration,
influenced by Islamic design.
Entered via a simple
doorway indistinguishable
from the neighbouring
houses, the synagogue’s
strong social cohesion and interior is divided into four
4\= unrivalled opportunities for aisles. A trap door in the aisle
Mellah social advancement. Like the on the far right opens onto a
Muslims elsewhere, most of steep stairway that leads
⌂ Accessible via Place des
the Jews in the district were down to a mikve – a bath for
Alaouites or Bab el-Mellah
grouped according to their ritual purification where the
Bab el-Semarine, then Bab el- craft speciality. Thus, the faithful were cleansed of their
Mellah leads into the Mellah, Berber Andalusi author and sins. Above this fourth aisle is
the Jewish quarter of Fès. The diplomat Leo Africanus the azara, the women’s gallery,
name mellah probably comes mentioned metalworking which offers an overall view
from the Arabic word for “salt in his book Descrittione of the synagogue. It is worth
marsh”, the terrain on which dell’Africa (Description of Africa) going out onto the terrace for
the quarter grew. in the mid-16th century, a sweeping view of the Mellah,
Thought to be the first recording that only the Jews and of the white tombs of the
Jewish enclave to be worked with gold and silver. Jewish cemetery below.
established in Morocco, this Today, the Jews of Fès have There is no entrance fee to
quarter was originally located left to settle in Casablanca or the synagogue, but a small
in the northern part of Fès el- have emigrated abroad, to donation is requested.
Bali, in the El-Yahoudi Quarter Israel in particular.
next to the Karaouiyine district. Exploring the mellah
In the early 13th century the reveals a striking contrast
Merinid rulers moved it near with the Muslim quarters. In 6=
the palace, to the site of a architectural terms it is another Rue Bou Ksissat
former kasbah that was once world – buildings are higher,
⌂ Accessible via Bab el-
occupied by the sultan’s narrower and more closely
Semarine or Place des
Syrian archers. The rulers of spaced. The present
Alaouites
Fès had undertaken to protect boundaries of the Jewish
the Jewish community in quarter were established A central rectilinear axis, lined
return for an annual levy only at the end of the 18th with various workshops and a
collected by the state century, during the time of kissaria, divides the Mellah
treasury. The Jewish quarter’s the Alaouite sultan Moulay into two. All the commercial
new location afforded the Yazid, and the space available activity in the quarter takes
inhabitants greater security. was small. As a result, the
With its souks, workshops, inhabitants were forced to
schools, synagogues and a build two-storey houses
cemetery, the quarter around tiny courtyards, and The Vieux Méchouar,
flourished, providing the space to move around in was with the ramparts of
Jewish community with very restricted. Bab Al Makina behind it
182
Must See
place in this street (formerly
known as Rue des Mérinides),
which was once the economic Did You Know? 8
and spiritual centre of the
Mellah. The street is lined The Fès Festival of Kasbah Cherarda
with jewellery shops. World Sacred Music is
held annually in ⌂ North of the town,
Rue Bou Ksissat separates
summer in Bab accessible via Bab Segma
the Mellah from the Dar el-
Makhzen. With its luxury Al Makina. Once known as the Kasbah el-
residences, this was once the Khmis (Thursday Fort), after
aristocratic area. The design the El-Khmis Souk which took
of the houses here is the most place along the northern and
unified and harmonious in Méchouar, in the northeast, is eastern walls, this kasbah was
the Mellah. The rows of a rectangular esplanade with built by Moulay Rachid in the
houses open onto the street, the high ramparts of Bab Al 17th century. Its present name
each house having a work- Makina on one side. It links is derived from a former
shop on the ground floor. The Bab Segma, the Merinid gate, kasbah built nearby by a
upper storeys are fronted by and Bab el-Seba. It is here Cherarda caid (chief ) to
the generously proportioned, that the population gathered defend his tribe’s grain stores.
finely carved wooden at sunset to watch dancers, With Bab Segma and Bab
balconies that are musicians and storytellers. Dekaken, the kasbah formed a
characteristic of the Jewish The Petit Méchouar, the system of fortifications that
architecture of Fès. smallest of the three, links controlled the road to Meknès
the Méchouar de Bab Dekaken and Tangier, and protected
and Dar el- Makhzen. It can Fès el-Jedid and the inter-
be reached through Bab el- section with Fès el-Bali.
7 Seba (Gate of the Lion), which Enclosed within crenellated
The Méchouars once defended the entrance walls set with sturdy square
Méchouars are wide, walled to the palace. towers, the kasbah has two
parade grounds used on On Avenue des Français, monumental gateways, one
ceremonial military occasions. just south of Bab el-Seba, a on the western and the other
Processions and ceremonies, narrow street on the right, on the eastern side. The
such as acts of allegiance and reachable through an opening kasbah now contains a
the acknowledgment of the in the wall, leads, after about hospital and an annexe of the
royal right to rule, are also 150 m (165 yards), to a large Karaouiyine university. Beneath
performed here. There are noria (waterwheel) built in the walls on the southern and
three such esplanades in Fès. 1287 by the Andalusians. western sides, in an area
The Grand Méchouar, in the Bal Al Makina was an where Almoravid and Almohad
northwest, also known as the arsenal, established by grain stores once stood, are
Méchouar de Bab Boujat, is an Moulay el-Hassan in 1855 the tombs of the Bab el-
extensive parade ground. The with the help of Italian Mahrouk cemetery. Among
Méchouar de Bab officers. It was built on the them is the small Mausoleum
Dekaken (Gate west side of the Méchouar of Sidi Boubker el-Arabi.
of the Benches), de Bab Dekaken. Having fallen
or Vieux into disuse, the Makina was
eventually restored. It is now
used as a concert hall and
conference venue.
EXPERIENCE MORE
motifs and glazed tilework
4 of many colours graces the
Bab Boujeloud
 C2 ⌂ Place du Pacha
façade. From this entranceway
the silhouette of the minaret
of the Bou Inania Medersa
8,000
EXPERIENCE Fès
el-Baghdadi The number of pieces

(p178) can be seen to the left.
Enclosed within high walls, of weaponry exhibited
the large Place Pacha el- in the Musée
Baghdadi links the medina des Armes.
and Fès el-Jedid. On one side 5
of the square stands Bab Merinid Tombs
Boujeloud. Built in 1913 in the view of the city and is well
 D1 ⌂ North of
Moorish style, this fine monu- worth the climb. Parts of the
the medina
mental gate consisting of curtain wall date from the
three symmetrical horseshoe Standing on a hill among olive Almohad period (12th century),
arches is the main entrance trees, cacti and blue agaves, notably Borj Kaoukeb.
into Fès el-Bali. the 16th-century ruins that The tombs overlook a tiered
With the development of overlook Fès el-Bali are those cemetery, which stretches as
heavy artillery, the fortified of a Merinid palace and necro- far as Bab Guissa, an Almohad
gates of Fès came to be seen polis. Ancient chroniclers gateway from the 13th century.
merely as decorative, contri- made note of their magnifi-
buting to the city’s prestige cent marble and coloured
and helping to justify the levy epitaphs. Today, the tombs
of city taxes. A rich scheme of are dilapidated, and the area 6"
geometric patterns, calli- is popular with petty thieves, Musée des Armes
graphy, interlaced floral but it offers an impressive
 C1 ⌂ Borj Nord § (0535)
64 75 66 # 9am–1pm
Tue–Sun
Borj Nord was built in 1582 on

the orders of the sultan. From
its vantage point over the city,
the fortress both defended
and controlled Fès el-Bali. In
1963 the collection of weapons
from the Musée Dar el-Batha
(p176) was transferred here to
create the Museum of Arms.
Much of the collection comes
from the Makina, the arsenal
built by Moulay Hassan I at
the end of the 19th century,
although it was enriched by
donations from various
Alaouite sultans.
Collections are exhibited
in 16 rooms, running chrono-
logically from prehistory up to
the middle of the 20th century.
Moroccan weapons are well
represented and demonstrate
the technical knowledge
of the country’s craftsmen.
Visitors entering the busy

medina thorugh the grand
archways of Bab Boujeloud
Intricate wooden carvings
lining the courtyard of the
Fondouk el-Nejjarine
remaining is in Rue Talaa

7 Seghira, opposite Dar Mnebhi; 9"
Rue Talaa Kebira it still makes traditional ouds Fondouk el-Nejjarine
(lutes). Beyond is the skin-
 C2 ⌂ Reached via  D2 ⌂ Place el-Nejjarine
dressers’ fondouk, which
Bab Boujeloud § (0535) 74 05 80 # 9am–
contains leather workshops.
6pm daily
This thoroughfare, whose Across the Bou Rous bridge
name means “Great Climb”, is stands the Ech Cherabliyine Not far from the Henna Souk,
lined with small shops along Mosque (Mosque of the the impressive Fondouk el-
almost its entire length. It is Slipper-Makers), distinguished Nejjarine is one of the most
continued by the Ras Tiyalin by its elegant minaret. renowned buildings in Fès.
and Aïn Allou souks and by Built by the amine (provost)
spice markets. The street Adeyel in the 18th century,
passes the kissaria and ends this former caravanserai
at the Karaouiyine Mosque 8 (roadside inn) provided food,
(p188). Running parallel to it at The Souks rest and shelter to traders in
its southern end is Rue Talaa luxury goods arriving from
 D1
Seghira (“Short Climb”), which the interior. Classed as a
joins up with Rue Talaa Kebira The souks of Fès el-Bali historic monument in 1916,
at Aïn Allou. These streets are spread out beyond the Ech it is now a UNESCO World
the two principal cultural and Cherabliyine Mosque. The Heritage Site. Its restoration
economic thoroughfares of location of each reflects a was part of the preservation
Fès el-Bali. hierarchy dictated by the programme carried out on the
Opposite the Bou Inania value placed on the various whole medina. Its three floors
Medersa stands Dar el- goods on offer. Every type of house the privately run Musée
Magana (House of the Clock), craft has its own street, or part du Bois (Museum of Wooden
built by the ruler Abou Inan in of a street, which has resulted Arts). Among the displays are
1357. It contains a water clock in a logical but relatively carved doors from the magni-
built by Fassi craftsmen during complex layout. While the ficent Bou Inania Medersa.
the Merinid period. El-Attarine Souk sells spices,
Not far from here, level with there is also a Slipper Souk
a covered passage in the Blida and a Henna Souk, laid out in INSIDER TIP
Quarter, is Zaouia el-Tijaniya, an attractive shaded square. Luxury Goods
containing the tomb of Ahmed A plaque records that the Sidi The kissaria, near the
el-Tijani, master of Tariqa el- Frej maristan, a specialist Zaouia of Moulay Idriss,
Tijaoniya (The Way), a doctrine teaching hospital once stood is a gridwork of streets
that spread widely throughout on the square. Built in 1286, it where shops sell luxury
the Maghreb and sub-Saharan was the largest of its kind in goods. Some of the fine
Africa. Further on are three the Merinid empire. In the silks and brocades,
musical instrument workshops. 16th century, Leo Africanus, kaftans and jewellery
Makers of stringed instruments known today for his accounts on offer here supply the
have almost completely disap- of his travels, worked there international market.
peared from Fès; the only one as a clerk for two years.
185
Traditional tannery in the old medina of Fès el-Bali
EXPERIENCE Fès
Morocco. Built in the centre of rated with zellij tilework.

10 the city at the beginning of the The horm, the perimeter wall
Zaouia of 18th century, during the reign around the zaouia, is also holy.
Moulay Idriss II of Moulay Ismaïl, the building The narrow streets leading to
was restored in the mid-19th the shrine are barred at mid-
 D2 ¢ To non-Muslims;
century. The pyramidal dome height by a wooden beam to
respectful glimpses
that covers the saint’s tomb prevent the passage of beasts
possible through open doors
and its polychrome minaret of burden. The horm also made
The Zaouia of Moulay Idriss II, give it a majestic silhouette. the shrine an inviolable place,
containing the tomb of the The courtyard of the mosque so that in the past outlaws
second Idrissid ruler (thought contains a fountain that would find sanctuary here.
to be the founder of Fès) is consists of a white marble At the end of each summer,
the most venerated shrine in basin on a shaft, richly deco- during a moussem lasting two
to three days, the zaouia
attracts not only the inhabi-
tants of Fès but also people
ARABIC CALLIGRAPHY from the countryside and
Islam traditionally forbids all figurative representation, mountain-dwellers, who all
and since the 8th century this prohibition has encouraged come to receive a blessing
the use of decorative calligraphy as an art form. Islamic and baraka (beneficient force).
calligraphy is closely connected to the revelation of the The crowd is made up of
Koran: the word of God is to be transcribed in a script far pilgrims and beggars, as well
finer than secular writing. The importance of this art as nougat, candle and incense
form in Islamic civilization is visible in the carved, painted sellers, whose goods are used
or tiled friezes that decorate the walls and domes of as tomb offerings.
mosques and medersas, as well as the thousands of
scientific literary and religious calligriphic manuscripts
preserved in public and private libraries.
11
Karaouiyine Mosque
 E2 ⌂ Rue Bou Touil
¢ To non-Muslims
Established in 859, and signifi-

cantly enlarged over the
centuries , the Karaouiyine
Mosque is one of the oldest
188
Established in 859, fronted by turned wooden
railings. The terrace offers a
A woman sitting in the tomb the Karaouiyine
of Moulay Idriss II, the most view of the courtyard of the
Mosque is one of Karaouiyine Mosque.
venerated shrine in Morocco
the oldest and most
illustrious of its
and most illustrious of its kind
in the western Muslim world.
kind in the western 13 "
A centre of teaching, it is also Muslim world. El-Cherratine Medersa
considered by UNESCO to be
 X9 ⌂ Rue El-Cherratine
the oldest continually operat-
ing university in the world; it The Medersa’s decorative Located southeast of the
remains the seat of the Muslim entrance leads to a courtyard Karaouiyine Mosque, in Rue
university of Fès. Named after paved with intricate zellij el-Cherratine (Street of the
the quarter in which it was tilework in a two-colour Ropemakers), this medersa
built, which was a home to pattern of brown and white, was built by Moulay Rachid,
refugees from Kairouan in and enclosing an ablutions the first Alaouite sultan, in
Tunisia, it was founded by fountain. A cladding of 1670. Although it is similar to
Fatima bint Mohammed el- polychrome tiles covers the the Merinid medersas in
Fihri, a religious woman who base of the courtyard’s four structure, it is less elaborately
donated her worldly riches for interior walls and its columns. decorated. Adding to the
its construction. Its prayer hall A door with exquisite fittings building’s austerity are the
can hold up to 20,000 people, leads from the courtyard high, narrow residential douiras,
although it is impossible to through to the prayer hall, which stand in three corners
gain an accurate impression which contains a mihrab. The of the courtyard. The tiny cells
of the mosque’s size, so snugly prayer hall has a highly embel- inside were for the students.
is it embedded within neigh- lished ceiling, walls with luxur- Entry into the medersa is
bouring buildings. Non- iant stuccowork and zellij work, through beautiful double
Muslims have to content and lintels with intricate doors cased in bronze. The
themselves with a glimpse epigraphic decoration. doors open on to a passageway
through whichever of the The students’ rooms, look- with a fine carved and painted
mosque’s 14 street doors ing on to the courtyard from wooden ceiling, which in turn
happen to be open at the the upper floor, have windows leads to the Moorish courtyard.
time, but be respectful.
12 "
El-Attarine Medersa
 E2 ⌂ Opposite the
Karaouiyine Mosque
§ (0535) 62 34 60
# 8:30am–noon, 2:30–
6.30pm daily
The El-Attarine Medersa

(Medersa of the Spice Sellers)
stands in the neighbourhood
of the Karaouiyine Mosque
and the El-Attarine Souk.
Along with the Bou Inania
Medersa, it is considered to
be one of the wonders of
Moorish architecture. Built
between 1323 and 1325, it
has all the elements specific
to a medieval Muslim school.
Colourful tilework
on the façade of
Karaouiyine Mosque
189
On the terrace is a large right, is the 16th-century
14 collective shop selling the Tetouani Fondouk, which
Tanners’ Quarter finished products of the accommodated traders and
tanneries in the form of students from Tetouan.
 E1 ⌂ North of Place
bags, coats and slippers Place el-Seffarine leads to
el-Seffarine
in butter-soft leather. Rue des Teinturiers (Dyers’
The Chouara, or Tanners’ Street), which runs parallel to
Quarter, is almost medieval. the wadi and is where skeins
Tanning has traditions that go are hung out to dry.
15
EXPERIENCE Fès
back thousands of years. The

process turns animal hides Place el-Seffarine Karaouiyine Library
(mostly goat or sheep, but ⌂ Place el-Seffarine § (0535)
 E2
occasionally cow and even 62 34 60 # 10am–4pm Mon–
camel) into soft, rot-proof Fès is the centre of brass Thu, 9am–1pm Fri
leather, which is passed on and silverware production in
to the leatherworkers. The Morocco. The workshops of
methods by which this is brass-workers and copper-
achieved are the same as smiths lining Place el-Seffarine 16
they have always been. They have been here for centuries. Andalusian Mosque
involve repeatedly softening The pretty fountain with fleur-
 E2 ⌂ Accessible via Rue
the skins in vats of various de-lis decoration, probably
el-Nekhaline or Bab el-
noxious ingredients, including built by French convicts in the
Ftouh and Rue Sidi Bou
pigeon droppings. It is easy 16th century, is worth a look.
Ghaleb ¢ To non-Muslims
to find the tanneries – just North of the square is the
follow your nose. 14th-century Karaouiyine According to legend, this
If you can bear the Library, which was set up on mosque was established in
unpleasantly strong smells, the orders of the sultan Abou the 13th century by Mariam
from the Derb Chouara Inan. It was used by the great- el-Fihri, sister of the founder
(Tanners’ Alley) a staircase est Moorish men of learning, of the Karaouiyine Mosque,
leads up to the Terrase de including the philosopher and and by the Andalusians from
Tannerie. From here you can doctor Ibn Rushd, known as the Karaouiyine Quarter. The
view the honeycomb-like Averroës, the philosopher
arrangement of pools and Ibn Tufayl, the historian
busy workers from a safe Ibn Khaldoun and the
distance. The different
hues in the various vats
are the due to the dyes
6th-century traveller
Leo Africanus. The
manuscripts that
1280
used to colour the once formed part of The year El-Seffarine
leather. About 50 fam- the library’s collection Medersa was built. It is
ilies work here and the have been transferred the oldest medersa in
trade is passed on from to the Moroccan Royal Morocco that is
father to son. Library in Rabat. still in use.
Further on, to the
A coppersmith working on
cookware at a workshop
in Place el-Seffarine
Merinids added a fountain in

1306 and established a library
here in 1416. Non-Muslims can
only admire the building from
the exterior; notable are the
great north entrance, with
a carved cedar awning, and
the domed Zenet minaret.
17
Andalusian Quarter
 E/F2
The Andalusian Quarter did

not undergo the same devel-
opment as the Karaouiyine
Quarter, located on the
opposite bank of Wadi Fès
and better provided with
water. Nevertheless, this
quieter, more residential part El-Sahrij Medersa
of the city has monuments " ⌂ Rue Sidi Bou Ghaled
that are worth a visit. § (0535) 62 34 60 # 9am–
EAT
The El-Sahrij Medersa, 5pm Wed–Mon
built in 1321, takes its name
from the large water basin in
one of the courtyards. This is Fez Café
considered to be the third- 18 Set in the courtyard of
finest medersa in Fès after Bab el-Ftouh Le Jardin des Biehn riad,
the Bou Inania and the El- this secret garden
 F2 ⌂ Southeast of
Attarine medersas. The eatery serves inventive
the medina
Mausoleum of Sidi Bou Ghaleb, French–Moroccan
in the street of the same Literally meaning “Gate of fusion dishes.
name, is that of a holy man the Aperture”, the huge Bab  D2 ⌂ 13 Akbat Sbaa,
from Andalusia who lived el-Ftouh is also known as the Douh § (0535) 63 50 31
and taught in Fès in the Gate of Victory. This leads # Noon–3pm, 7:30–
12th century. through to the largely resi- 10pm daily
dential Andalusian Quarter. 
Originally built in the 10th
century by a Zenet emir,
it was altered in the 18th NUR
century, during the reign of Creative Moroccan
cuisine prepared by a
Alaouite ruler Sidi Mohammed
chef whose CV includes
ben Abdallah. Outside the
stints at elBulli in Spain
ramparts, on a hill opposite
and two-Michelin-
the city, is the Bab el-Ftouh
starred Noma
cemetery, where some of the
in Denmark.
most illustrious inhabitants
of Fès are buried.  D2 ⌂ Zkak Rouah
# 6:30–10pm Tue–Sun
∑ nur.ma

The enormous Bab el-
Ftouh gateway leading to
the Andalusian Quarter
191
Impressive Roman ruins, Volubilis
MEKNÈS
AND VOLUBILIS
Located between the fertile plain of the Rarb
and the Middle Atlas, Meknès and Volubilis lie
at the heart of an agricultural area that has
been Morocco's grain store since ancient times.
The historical importance of the two cities can
be clearly seen in the ruins of Volubilis, capital
of Mauretania Tingitana and the most important
archaeological site in Morocco, as well as in the
grandeur of the Moorish buildings in Meknès.
From the time of its foundation in the 10th
century to the arrival of the Alaouites in the
17th century, Meknès was just a small town
overshadowed by Fès, its neighbour and rival.
It was not until Moulay Ismaïl's reign, which began
in 1672, that Meknès first rose to the rank of
imperial city, and the sultan ordered the building
of gates, ramparts, mosques and palaces worthy
of such an honour. This ambitious building
programme continued throughout his reign
and involved robbing the ruins of Volubilis and
the Palais el-Badi in Marrakech.
Today, Meknès is one of the largest cities in
Morocco, with a population approaching a million.
It is a dynamic economic centre, renowned for its
fresh produce, olives, wine and mint tea. The grand
imperial city stands alongside the new town, on
the banks of Wadi Boufekrane.
193
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7
MEKNÈS AND VOLUBILIS Dar el-Ma Dar

andel-Ma a
Heri es-Souani
Heri es-Sou
Must Sees 11 Dar el-Kebira Quarter
1 Mausoleum of 12 Koubba el-Khayatine
Moulay Ismaïl and Habs Qara
2 Volubilis 13 Dar el-Makhzen
3 Moulay Idriss 14 Bassin de l’Aguedal
15 Dar el-Ma and Heri es-Souani
Experience More
AV
AV
16 Haras de Meknès
EN
EN
4 Ramparts of Meknès
UE
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17 Sidi Kacem
5 Souks and Kissaria
AB
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18 Khemisset
DE
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LK
LK
19 Zerhoun Massif
RI
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8 Musée Dar Jamaï Eat

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9 Lalla Aouda Mosque 1 Kenza

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AT T
10 Bab Mansour el-Aleuj 2 Le Collier de la Colombe

ABI
ABI
and Place el-Hedime

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PLACE ABDELAZIZ
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0 metres 0 metres 400 N

400 N
Dar El-Makhzen
Dar El-Makhzen 0 yards 0 yards 400 400
MECHOUAR MECHOUAR
Beyond
Beyond
Meknès
Meknès
Bab el Nouara
Bab el Nouara
Sidi Slimane
Sidi Slimane
Ouled Jerrar
Ouled Jerrar
Sidi KacemSidi Kacem
Dar bel-Amri
Dar bel-Amri
Nzala desNzala des
N13
N13
Beni Ammar
Beni Ammar
Volubilis Volubilis
and
uani El-Kansera Aïn el-
El-Kansera Aïn el-
Jemaa Jemaa Zerhoun Zerhoun
Moulay MoulayMassif Massif
Aïn el-Kerma Idriss
Aïn el-Kerma Idriss
Barrage d’El
Barrage d’El
Kansera Kansera
MEKNÈS MEKNÈS
Area of main
Area
map
of main map
Haras de Meknès
Haras de Meknès
KhemissetKhemisset
Boufakrane
Boufakrane
0 kilometres
0 kilometres
15 15 N N El-Hajeb El-Hajeb
1
MAUSOLEUM OF
MOULAY ISMAÏL
EXPERIENCE Meknès and Volubilis
 C2 ⌂ Rue Sarag, Meknès # 9am–noon & 3–6pm daily
The most bloodthirsty ruler in Moroccan history, Moulay Ismaïl (1672–1727)

spent the latter part of his life making sure that when his own death came
he would be buried surrounded by splendour. He built this lavish
mausoleum, which is a fine example of Islamic architecture and design.
Once through the highly ornate entrance,

you will pass through a series of yellow
courtyards, a sequence intended to create
The floor of the prayer hall is covered
a sense of calm. These lead to a suite of
with mats on which worshippers
burial chambers decorated with a blaze of kneel to pray or to reflect before
polychromatic tiling in a style similar to the going into the burial chamber.
Saadian Tombs in Marrakech (p256). The
wife of Moulay Ismaïl and his son Moulay
Ahmed al-Dahbi, as well as the sultan Moulay The mausoleum’s mihrab
Abderrahman (1822–59), are all buried here. is located in the open
The tomb chamber is often visited by locals courtyard. This unusual
seeking good baraka (blessings). position differs from the
arrangement at the Saadian
Tombs in Marrakech.
The roof of the mausoleum is

topped with five brass spheres
indentifying the building as a
shrine or sacred place.
Cemetery
Clock presented
by Louis XIV
Tomb of Moulay Ismaïl
INSIDER TIP This carved and painted

Visiting the wooden door is similar to
Mausoelum those of the palaces and fine
town houses of Meknès.
Photography is
permitted, and non-
Muslims are allowed to
The burial chamber consists of
enter the site, although
three rooms, including the The ablutions room, with green
they are prohibited ablutions room and the room glazed tiles, is a courtyard with
from approaching the containing the tombs of Moulay a star-shaped fountain. Its
sacred tomb itself. Ismaïl, his wife and son. 12 columns come from the
el-Badi Palace in Marrakech.
196
Must See
The mausoleum façade,

This imposing carved stone
decorated with beautiful
entrance doorway, surmounted
by an awning and a pyramidal mosaic tiles
roof, indicates the importance
of the royal building.
En route to the burial chamber

Did You Know?
you pass through several empty, Moulay Ismaïl is
peaceful courtyards, which are alleged to have
decorated in a sober style. fathered a total of
867 children.
Plan showing the layout

of the Mausoleum of
Moulay Ismaïl
Open courtyard
The lower part of the walls of

the rooms leading into the
burial chamber is covered
with traditional zellij tilework –
mosaics of glazed
polychrome tiles.
Fountain in the
opulent interior of
the mausoleum
197
2"'-
VOLUBILIS
 F4 ⌂ 31 km (19 miles) northwest of Meknès; 5 km (3 miles) from Moulay Idriss
# 8am–one hour before sunset daily @ Bus from Meknès to Moulay Idriss, then
by grand taxi to the site
Founded in the 3rd century BC, Volubilis was the capital of the ancient
kingdom of Mauretania. When Mauretania was annexed by the Romans
in AD 45, Volubilis became one of the most important cities in the province
of Mauretania Tingitana. It has some of the finest Roman ruins in Morocco.
Exploring Volubilis Gordian Palace

During its heyday under the Romans Volubilis was
an affluent city. This is seen in the remains of the
beautiful 2nd-century forum, basilica and capitol
and the sophisticated town houses paved with
mosaics. The site also features baths, oil presses, House of Dionysus
bakeries, aqueducts, drains and shops that evoke and the Four
the inhabitants’ daily lives. After Rome withdrew Seasons
from Mauretania in the 3rd century, the city
declined. It was inhabited by Christians, Jews and
Greeks and then became an Islamic settlement
under Idriss I in 788. By the 11th century Volubilis
was abandoned after the seat of power
transferred to Fès.
Decumanus maximus
The House of the Labours of Hercules

is named after a mosaic found here
depicting the Greek hero’s 12 labours.
Aristocratic quarter
The House of Columns is arranged around a

huge peristyle courtyard with a circular pool.
Columns with twisted fluting and composite
capitals front the grand reception room.
Bestriding the decumanus

maximus, the triumphal arch
overlooks plantations of House of
58
House of
cereals and olive trees. The the Dog the Athlete
fertile plain to the west
of Volubilis has provided
The number of oil Macellum (market)
the area with grain and
presses discovered at oil since antiquity.
Volubilis, showing the
value of olive oil to the
city’s economy. Plan showing the
layout of the ancient
city of Volubilis
198
Must See
Tangier Gate
The imposing basilica on the

eastern side of the forum
House of the
Golden Coins
The House of the Cortège

of Venus has a mosaic of
Diana and the Bathing
Nymphs. A similar scene
is depicted in the House
of the Bathing Nymphs.
Detail of an ancient
Roman floor mosaic
Aqueduct
Artisans’
quarters
Apart from the triumphal arch, the

basilica was the only building whose
ruins were still impressive when
excavations began. The interior was
divided into three aisles and two apses.
Visitors’ entrance
Of the original Capitol building

(dating from the early 3rd century)
only the foundations remain.
The sacrificial altar, identifiable by
its moulded base, stood in front
of the steps.
Oil Press
House of
Orpheus
199
1
The House of Orpheus
Located in the southern
quarter of the city, the House
of Orpheus is remarkable not
only for its size but for the
rooms that it contains.
Opposite the entrance is a
large peristyle courtyard, with

a slightly sunken square pool
that is decorated with sea
creatures. The tablinum,
looking onto the courtyard,
is the main reception room;
the centre is paved with the
Orpheus Mosaic, the largest of
the circular mosaics that have
been discovered in Volubilis.
Orpheus is depicted charming
a lion, an elephant and other
animals with his lyre. The
house also has an oil press
with purification tanks, as well The centre of the tablinum in the House
as private areas. These have
of Orpheus is paved with the Orpheus
further rooms paved with
mosaics in geometric patterns Mosaic, the largest of the circular mosaics
and bath suites with hypo that have been discovered in Volublis.
causts (underfloor heating).
pressure was exerted by macellum, a market that

means of a beam that acted was originally covered.
2 as a lever. The oil ran out On the left of the entrance,
Oil Press along channels and into from the direction of the oil
The reconstruction of an oil purification tanks set up press, stands the stele of
press near the House of outside. Water poured into Marcus Valerius Servus, which
Orpheus shows how this the tanks forced the better lists the territory that the
device worked in Roman quality oil to float to the citizens of Volubilis possessed
times. The olives were crushed surface. It was then poured in the hinterland.
in a cylindrical vat by the off into large earthenware On the eastern side of the
action of a millstone fixed to jars for local use or for export. forum, a short flight of steps
a vertical axis. The resulting and three semicircular arches
pulp was emptied into rush or leads into the basilica. This
esparto baskets laid beneath was the meeting place of the
planks of wood on which 3 curia (senate), as well as the
The Forum, Basilica commercial exchange and
and Capitol tribunal, and somewhere to
RECONSTRUCTION Like the other major public take a stroll. On the capitol,
OF VOLIBILIS buildings in the heart of the south of the basilica, public
Many of the ancient city, the unusually small rites in honour of Jupiter, Juno
ruins were bady forum dates from the early and Minerva were performed.
damaged during a 3rd century. It was the focal
major earthquake in point of public life and
1755. Excavations and administration, as well as a
restoration began in meeting place where business
the late 19th century was done. It is continued on
and continue to this its western side by the
day, although extensive
areas still remain to be
explored. So far, only
the centre of the city Close-up of an ancient
has been excavated. Roman carved
capital in Volubilis
200
Must See
Ephebe, where a beautiful
statue of an ivy-wreathed
ephebe (youth in military Kasbah Museum of
training) was found in 1932. Mediterranean Cultures in
This, together with the statue Tangier (p144). Some of the
of the dog are now in the mosaics have motifs very
Musée de l’Historie and des similiar to those seen in
Civilisations in Rabat (p86). Berber carpets today.
6 8
Aristocratic Quarter Triumphal Arch and
Fine houses, such as the Decumanus Maximus
elegant House of the According to the inscription
Columns, House of the Knight that it bears, the triumphal
and House of the Labours of arch was erected in AD 217 by
Hercules, constituted the the governor Marcus Aurelius
Well-preserved Roman aristocratic quarter. The Sebastenus in honour of
mosaics, a key feature of House of Dionysus and the Caracalla and his mother Julia
the ruins in Volubilis Four Seasons and the House Domna. Above the inscription,
of the Bathing Nymphs have at the top of the monument,
high-quality mosaics. The ran a frieze and a band, and
Gordian Palace, named after the whole was crowned by a
4 Emperor Gordian III (238–44) chariot drawn by six horses.
House of the Athlete and probably the residence of The arch, which stands over
The athlete that gives this the Roman governor, is notable 8 m (26 ft) high, was recons-
house its name is the desultor, for the 12 columns that front tructed in 1933. It faces west
or chariot jumper, who took it and the horseshoe-shaped onto the plain and east onto
part in the Olympic Games. pool with almost perfectly the decumanus maximus. This
He would leap from his horse semicircular outlines. main axis through the city
or his chariot in the middle of leads from the triumphal arch
a race and remount or get in the southwest to the
back in immediately. gateway known as Tangier
The mosaic here depicts 7 Gate in the northeast.
the desultor as a parody. The Cortège of Venus Parallel with the decumanus
naked athlete is shown Busts of Cato the Younger maximus, and a few metres
bestriding a donkey backwards, and Juba II were found south away on its southern side, ran
and holding a cantharus, a of the city’s main road, the an aqueduct, substantial parts
drinking vessel given as a decumanus maximus. The of which survive. This brought
prize. The scarf, another mosaic depicting the Cortège water from a spring 1 km
emblem of victory, flutters of Venus, which paved the (0.6 mile) from Volubilis to the
in the background. triclinium, is displayed in the city’s baths and fountains.
5
House of the Dog and
House of the Ephebe
The House of the Dog, behind
the triumphal arch on the
western side, is laid out to a
typical Roman plan. A double
doorway opens onto a lobby
leading through to the atrium.
This room contains a pool and
leads in turn to a large dining
room, or triclinium. In 1916, a
bronze statue of a dog was
discovered in one of the
rooms off the triclinium.
Opposite the House of the Triumphal arch, situated at the end of the
Dog stands the House of the decumanus maximus, the city’s main street
201
MOULAY IDRISS
 F4 ⌂ 3 km (30 miles) north of Mecknès @ From Mecknès
The holy city of Moulay Idriss clings to two rocky outcrops at the foot of
the Zerhoun Massif. Built around the sacred tomb of Moulay Idriss I, this
pretty, white-washed town is of huge national importance. A peaceful
and picturesque place for the majority of the year, it bursts into life each
August when thousands of pilgrims arrive for the annual moussem.
Fleeing the persecution of the Abbassid caliphs of Baghdad,

INSIDER TIP Morocco’s first Islamic leader and most revered saint, Moulay
Volubilis by Foot Idriss, found sanctuary in Oualili (Volubilis). A direct descendant
It is possible to walk of the Prophet Mohammed, he founded the first Arab-Muslim
from Moulay Idriss to dynasty in Morocco. He died in 791 and was buried in the town
the nearby Roman site that now bears his name. In the 16th century the town began to
of Volubilis (p198) via prosper, and it was still in the process of developing in the 17th
a scenic mountain century, during the reign of Moulay Ismaïl, when he endowed it
footpath. The 4-km with defensive walls, a monumental gate, Koranic schools,
(2.5-mile) route skirts fountains and a new dome for the mausoleum.
the hillside, and affords Due to its holy status, Moulay Idriss remained closed to non-
spectacular views of Muslims until 1912, and they were not allowed to stay overnight
the town and the until 2005. As such, it has managed to remain somewhat of a
surrounding landscape. tranquil backwater in comparison to other tourist favourites,
and retain its peaceful and spiritual charm.
202
Must See
The town of Moulay Idriss,

perched on the foothills
of the Zerhoun Massif
The Mausoleum of Moulay Idriss

Conspicuous with its green-tiled roof, the Tomb of Idriss I, MOUSSEM OF
around which the town clusters, is closed to non-Muslims. MOULAY IDRISS
However, a the terrace near the Mosque of Sidi Abdallah el- Moulay Idriss is the
Hajjam, which perches above the town, offers splendid views setting for Morocco’s
of the town and the mausoelum. Its unusual cylindrical minaret most celebrated
is covered with green tiles and verses from the Koran. moussem, or religious
festival, in which
thousands of Muslims
make a pilgrimage to
this holy town during
the month before
Ramadan. Colourful
banners, Moroccan
flags and pictures of
the King are erected
througout the town.
Traditional music is
played as a procession
winds its way through
the medina. The
energy is infectious,
and all are welcome to
Beautifully tiled entrance to join the party.
the Mausoleum of Moulay Idriss
203
EXPERIENCE MORE
mausoleums in Morocco – that
4 of Sidi Mohammed ben Aïssa, 5
Ramparts of Meknès founder of the brotherhood of Souks and Kissaria
the Aïssaoua.
! B1 ⌂ Encircling the ! B2 ⌂ Rue des Souks,
On the southern side of the
medina, Meknès Meknès # Daily

cemetery stands Bab el-Siba
Protected by three stretches (Gate of Anarchy) and Bab el- A network of small streets
of wall several kilometres Jedid (New Gate, although in lined with shops, the souks
long, the medina has the fact it is one of the oldest in are a fascinating encapsula-
appearance of a sturdy Meknès). Further south is Bab tion of the 17th- and 18th-
fortress set with elegant Berrima, which leads into the century Moroccan urban
gates. Bab el-Berdaïne (Gate medina’s principal souks. To environment. Rue des Souks,
of the Pack Saddle Makers), on the west stands Bab el-Khemis near Bab Berrima, is filled with
the northern side, was built by (Thursday Gate), which once hardware merchants (akarir),
Moulay Ismaïl. It is flanked led into the mellah, now non- corn chandlers (bezzazine) and
by protruding square towers existent. The remarkable deco- fabric sellers (serrayriya), while
crowned by merlons, and ration of the façade is on a par metalsmiths (haddadin) are to
stylized flowers in zellij tile- with that of Bab el-Berdaïne. be found in the old Rue des
work decorate its exterior The layout of the medina, a Armuriers. Bab Berrima leads
façade. West of the gate, the medieval labyrinth, is identical through to Souk En-Nejjarine,
walled cemetery contains one to that of the other imperial the Carpenters’ Souk, which is
of the most highly venerated cities. There are a few main next to that of the brass- and
thoroughfares. Rue Karmouni, coppersmiths, and to the
which runs north to south, Cobblers’ Souk (sebbat).
links Bab el-Berdaïne with the The En-Nejjarine Mosque,
Did You Know? spiritual and economic heart
of the medina. Rue des Souks
built by the Almohads in the
12th century, was given a new
Alouite sultan Moulay runs from Bab Berrima, in the minaret in 1756. Set back from
Ismail intended west, to this centre, which is the En-Nejjarine Souk, in the
Meknès to become marked by the Grand Mosque Ed-Dlala Kissaria, is a Berber
Morocco’s answer and the Bou Inania Medersa, souk. Every day from 3pm to
to Versailles. one of the few religious sites 4pm, the mountain-dwellers
in Morocco to which non- of the Middle Atlas come to
Muslims can gain access. auction carpets and blankets.
Driving through the twin

towers of the Bab el-Khemis
gateway in Meknès
204
pools and a shady Andalusian
garden planted with orange
trees and tall cypresses.
The collection includes
carved and painted wood,
ceramics, carpets and embroi-
dery from around the country,
kaftans, belts and jewellery.
Highlights include a finely
carved 17th-century minbar
(pulpit) that originally stood
in the Grand Mosque. Also
worth close inspection is the
room devoted to metalwork.
While ceramics reached their
apogee in Fès, the craftsmen
of Meknès were distinguished
A visitor admiring the intricately decorated Bou masters of damascening. The
Inania Medersa, at the heart of the medina technique consists of covering
a metallic surface with a filigree
of gold, silver or copper, and is
entrance is crowned by a flat- still very much alive today.
6 sided dome and faced with On the upper floor is a
Grand Mosque horseshoe arches that sumptuous reconstruction of
feature impressively delicate a traditional Moroccan salon
! B2 ⌂ Rue des Souk es
stuccowork decoration. complete with carved wooden
Sebbat, Meknès # Daily
A corridor leads to a beau- dome ceiling and luxurious
¢ To non-Muslims
tiful courtyard, in the centre of rugs and cushions.
The Grand Mosque, which which is a pool. While three
stands near the souks and sides of the courtyard are
the Bou Inania Medersa, was lined with a gallery, the fourth
established during the reign opens on to the prayer hall.
EAT
of the Almoravids in the 12th The green-tiled awnings, the
century and remodelled in the sophisticated carved wood,
14th century. The main façade stuccowork and zellij tilework,
is pierced by an imposing as well as the mosaic-like tiled Kenza
doorway with a carved awning. floor, make the courtyard an A small family-run
The beautiful green-glazed entrancing sight. restaurant deep in the
terracotta tiles of the roof and The prayer hall itself remains medina, serving
of the 18th-century minaret unaltered. Students’ cells fill traditional home-
are particularly striking, the the rest of the ground floor cooked cuisine –
bright sunlight giving them and the upper floor. The beware, the portions
a translucent appearance. terrace offers a fine view of are enormous.
the medina and the Grand  B2
Mosque next to the medersa. ⌂ 11 Sidi Abdallah
Elkasri Touta, Meknès
7" § (0669) 40 59 02
Bou Inania Medersa
8

! B2 ⌂ Rue des Souks es
Musée Dar Jamaï
Sebbat, Meknès # 8am– Le Collier de
noon, 3–6pm daily ! B2 ⌂ Place el-Hedime la Colombe
§ (0535) 55 88 73 # 10am– Good Moroccan food and
This Koranic school opposite
5:30pm Wed–Mon excellent panoramic
the Grand Mosque was esta-
views across the valley
blished by the Merinid sultans This museum of Moroccan
from the roof terrace.
in the 14th century. The arts is set in a delightful
building is divided into two palatial residence that is  C2
⌂ 67 Rue Driba, Meknès
parts with a long corridor worth the modest admission
§ (0535) 55 50 41
between them. On the eastern price alone. Built at the end of
side is the medersa proper, the 19th century, the palace is 
while on the western side is an decorated with intricate
annexe for ablutions (now no plasterwork and zellij tilework.
longer in use). The main It has a courtyard with two
205
like a triumphal arch before not in keeping with its historic
the imperial city, it pierces the character. Nearby, to the left
walls of the kasbah and leads of the square, is a covered
to Place Lalla Aouda and the food market.
Dar el-Kebira Quarter.
Of monumental proportions
and distinguished for its deco-
ration, Bab Mansour el-Aleuj is 11
the finest gate in Meknès, or Dar el-Kebira Quarter
even in Morocco. It was begun

! C2 ⌂ Behind Place Lalla
by the sultan Moulay Ismaïl in
Aouda (between Bab
about 1672 and completed
Moulay and the Lalla Aouda
during the reign of his son,
Mosque), Meknès
Moulay Abdallah, in 1732. An
intricate pattern of interlacing This quarter forms part of
motifs is carved in relief on a the so-called Imperial City, or
background of predominantly Kasbah of Moulay Ismaïl.
The Moroccan flag green mosaics and tiles. The Covering an area four times
waving in front of cornerpieces are filled with as large as that of the medina,
Lalla Aouda Mosque sgraffito floral decoration the whole quarter is a testa-
incised into dark-glazed terra- ment to the grand ambitions
cotta. The gate is framed by of this enterprising sultan.
protruding loggia-style towers. Protected by a double line of
9 Temporary exhibitions are walls and monumental angled
Lalla Aouda Mosque sometimes held here. gates, the Imperial City has
Place el-Hedime (Square of the appearance of an impreg-
! C2 ⌂ Place Lalla
Ruins) links the medina and nable ksar (fortified village).
Aouda, Meknès # Daily
the kasbah. It was laid out It contains wide avenues and
¢ To non-Muslims
on the ruins of the Merinid large squares, palaces with
The first major place of worship kasbah that Moulay Ismaïl attractive pools and extensive
to be built by Moulay Ismaïl, in razed to make space for the gardens, as well as adminis-
1680, this mosque is one of palaces, water tanks, gardens, trative buildings enclosed
the few of the sultan’s projects stables, arsenals and forts within their own ramparts.
to have survived intact. The with which he planned to The Imperial City comprises
building has three doorways. surround himself. The square three complexes: Dar el-Kebira,
Two on the northwestern side is now lined with modern Dar el-Medrasa and Ksar el-
open out on to the former residential buildings that are Mhanncha. Dar el-Kebira, the
méchouar (parade ground),
and a smaller one, on the side
of the mosque where the
mihrab is located, leads to a
corridor running behind the
mosque, probably the sultan’s
private entrance.
10
Bab Mansour el-Aleuj
and Place el-Hedime
! B2 ⌂ South of the
medina, Meknès
Bab Mansour el-Aleuj (Gate of

the Victorius Renegade) is so
named for the Christian who
designed and built it. Standing
Visitors admiring the iconic

Bab Mansour el-Aleuj from
the Place el-Hedime
206
Quarter of the Large House,
is located southeast of the
medina. It was the first palatial
complex of the Imperial City
that Moulay Ismaïl ordered
to be built, in about 1672. It
stands near Place Lalla Aouda,
probably on the site of the
former Almohad kasbah. The
complex was cut off from the
urban bustle by a double wall
and by Place el-Hedime.
Each palace in Dar el-Kebira
contained a harem, hammams,
kitchens, armouries, ovens and
mosques, interlinked by a
somewhat haphazard network Paintings in Habs Qara, a medieval prison
of open or partially covered hidden beneath the streets of Meknès
alleys. Today, the ancient heart
of the Imperial City, which is
partly in ruins, has become a a white marble pool fashioned
poor district that has been 12 " as a labyrinth. In contrast to
filled with shanty dwellings. Koubba el-Khayatine Dar el-Kebira and Koubba el-
The Mausoleum of Moulay and Habs Qara Khayatine, the complex has
Ismaïl, the Lalla Aouda Mosque a neat and compact layout.
! B2 ⌂ Place Habs Qara,
and a monumental gate near It is divided into eight parts
Meknès # 9am–noon,
Bab Bou Ameïr are the last and surrounded by walls set
3–6pm daily ¢ Public hols
surviving vestiges of the with bastions. In the centre
ostentatious complex that This imperial pavilion was stands a monumental gate,
the sultan had envisaged. originally used to receive the fulsomely decorated Bab
The second complex, which diplomats who came to el-Makhzen (Gate of the
is now in complete ruins, was negotiate the ransom of Warehouse), built by Moulay
the Dar el-Medrasa. The palace Christian prisoners. The el-Hassan in 1888. A second
comprised suites of residential building is crowned by a gate, Bab el-Jedid (New Gate),
rooms, some of which were conical dome decorated with was made on the north-
used exclusively by the sultan geometric and floral motifs. western side. Features of the
and his harem. Behind the pavilion are the complex include a méchouar
former underground storage and Kasbah Hadrach, the
areas that were converted former barracks of the sultan’s
into the Christian Prison, or army of slaves.
Habs Qara. The prisoners,
probably Europeans captured
by the corsairs of Rabat, were
made to work on the sultan’s 14
building projects. Chroniclers Bassin de l’Aguedal
have recorded that thousands
! C4 ⌂ Aguedal Quarter,
of convicts were once
Meknès
incarcerated in these under-
ground galleries, which were This sahrij (water reservoir)
later partly destroyed by was built by Moulay Ismaïl to
an earthquake. supply water to the palace
and the Imperial City, its
mosques, hammams, gardens
and orchards. The women of
13 the harem, so it is said, would
Dar el-Makhzen sail on it in their pleasure
boats. Only a few stretches
! D3 ⌂ Place Bab el-
of its walls survive. The spot
Mechouar, Meknès
has suffered some unfor-
¢ To the public
tunate alterations in an effort
This royal complex was to create a place where the
formerly known as the Palace people of Meknès could
of the Labyrinth, named after come to walk.
207
Pottery and tajines for sale in Place el-Hedim, Meknès
has thick walls to keep the (initially for local, then for
temperature inside the grain- imported, fuel). Third are the
store at a constant low level. grain silos, which are at the
The ceilings collapsed during heart of a well-watered and
the earthquake of 1755. productive region.
Sidi Kacem is a major centre
of agricultural food production
and of brickmaking. These
16 ' industries have made the
Haras de Meknès town an important banking

and commercial hub.
 F5 ⌂ Zitoune Quarter,
southwest of Meknès, from
Dar el-Ma, 1 km (0.6 miles)
towards Dar el-Beïda, turn- i
ing right 400 m (440 yds)
Khemisset
beyond Dar el-Beïda and
continuing for 2 km (1 mile)  D5 @ From Meknès
A berber man standing
to the south # 9am–noon,
in one of the 29 aisles This town was founded in
2–6pm Mon–Fri
of Heri es-Souani 1924, on the site of a military
Although it cannot rival the outpost on the road from
modern studs in Rabat and Rabat to Fès. Now a provincial
Marrakech, Haras de Meknès capital, Khemisset is also the
15 is well known in Morocco. The de facto “capital” of the
Dar el-Ma and stud was established in 1912 confederation of the Berber-
Heri es-Souani with the aim of improving speaking Zemmour tribes of
bloodlines and promoting the Middle Atlas.
 C4 ⌂ L’Agdal Quarter,
various Moroccan breeds of This is a good place to stop,
Meknès # 9am–noon,
horses for use in racing, riding since there are many cafés
3–6pm daily
and fantasias. and restaurants. The town
Dar el-Ma, the Water House, The stud can accommodate also has a crafts cooperative
held the town’s water reserves 231 horses, ranging from where you can buy regional
and was another of Moulay pure-bred Arabs and Barbs to specialities, such as carpets
Ismaïl’s grandiose projects. English thoroughbreds and and mats woven in palm fibre
The huge barrel-vaulted Anglo-Arabs. A visit here may or wool and a variety of hand-
building contains 15 rooms, include seeing horses being carved wooden objects. Every
each with a noria (water wheel) put through their paces. Tuesday, Khemisset is the
once worked by horses to
draw underground water by
means of scoops. The terraces
offer a fine view of the city. u
Dar el-Ma gives access to Sidi Kacem
Heri es-Souani, the so-called
 E4 ⌂ 46 km (29 miles)
Grainstore Stables, which are
northwest of Meknès
considered to be among the
£ @ From Meknès
sultan’s finest creations. As
well as a network of under- Sidi Kacem grew out of a
ground passages, this monu- military outpost that was set
mental building, with 29 aisles, up in 1915 near a zaouia and
the souk of the local Cherarda
tribe. It is now an important
INSIDER TIP agricultural and industrial
People Pics centre on the plain of the
It’s rude to take photos eastern Rharb.
of anybody in any The three complexes that
country without asking dominate the town bear
permission. Canny witness to the history and
Moroccans may ask to economic activity of Sidi
be paid, so it’s a good Kacem. One is the railway
idea to establish a price station, at the intersection of
(Dh 10 is about right) lines running between Rabat
before snapping. and Fès and Tangier and Fès.
The second is the oil refinery
210
ment of water through the
landscape. As a result, a few COUNTRY SOUKS
Did You Know? outcrops of harder limestone
and sandstone have emerged,
Around 850 rural
country souks are held
The holy status of one of which is Jbel Zerhoun, every week in Morocco,
Moulay Idris,on the its highest point, whose gorges, drawing people from
Zerhoun Massif, means peaks and cliffs are all the miles around. Their
that the town provides result of erosion. main purpose is to
no soldiers. Water is abundant here, allow townspeople
a fact known to the Romans, to buy agricultural
who tapped the springs to produce, craft items,
supply Volubilis. Large villages and groceries.
venue for one of the most have since grown up on these However, not only do
important country souks in hillsides, along the line of the they provide services,
Morocco, playing host to springs and at the foot of the entertainment and
almost 1,900 stalls. massif. While fig, orange and food, the souks are also
olive trees grow on the higher an important social
slopes, corn and barley thrive occasion, a meeting
in the valleys and on the lower place where rural
19 hillsides. Some consider the dwellers can interact
Zerhoun Massif olives produced here to be the and share their news.
best in Morocco. Enclosures The civic authorities
 F4 ⌂ About 50 km also use these souks
(zriba) of loose stones or thorny
(31 miles) northeast to set up temporary
branches, for small herds of
of Meknès registry offices, post
cattle, sheep and goats, can
Zerhoun Massif forms part of be seen near the villages. offices and health
an extensive range of hills For Moroccans, Zerhoun is a centres. Permanent
shops that may appear
bordering the southern side holy mountain, the home of
on the site of a weekly
of the Rif and running from many religious men – the Tomb
souk sometimes lead to
the region of Meknès to the of Idriss I (p202) is found in the
the establishment of a
environs of Taza in the east. town that takes his name –
new town or village .
It is said to be one Morocco’s and the setting of numerous
most beautiful mountains. stories and legends.
This pre-Riffian terrain,
consisting mostly of clay and
marl, is very susceptible to
erosion caused by the move-
The remaining columns of the

basilica in the ancient town of
Volubilis on the Zerhoun Massif
211
Thundering waterfalls, Cascades d’Ouzoud
MIDDLE ATLAS
A wild region of rare beauty, the Middle Atlas is
surprisingly little visited. The great cedar forests
that cover the mountainsides between deep valleys
stretch as far as the eye can see. Bordered by the
fertile plain of the Saïs and the cities of Fès and
Meknès, and traversed by one of the main routes
through to southern Morocco, the mountainous
heights of the Middle Atlas are the territory
of Berber tribes, whose population is thinly
scattered over the area.
Flanked on its eastern side by Tazzeka National
Park, the terrain is scarred with natural caves and
gorges, while forests of cedar, holm oak and cork
oak form a patchwork with the bare volcanic
plateaux and small lakes brimming with fish.
The Oum er-Rbia rises in the heart of the
mountains. The longest river in Morocco, it travels
600 km (375 miles) before reaching the Atlantic.
To the west, the Middle Atlas abuts the foothills of
the High Atlas. Here, the Cascades d’Ouzoud crash
down 100 m (328 ft) to the bottom of a natural
chasm wreathed in luxuriant vegetation.
Nicknamed the Switzerland of Morocco, the
Middle Atlas is also home to some exquisitely scenic
small towns at mid-altitude. Ifrane, which has stone-
built chalets with red-tiled roofs, Azrou, a resort on
the slopes of a cedar plantation, and Imouzzer du
Kandar are among the most attractive; they also
serve as bases for hikes and tours in the mountains.
213
Kenitra Kenitra
Dar-Bel- Dar-Bel-
Amri Amri
NORTHERN
Rabat-SaléRabat-SaléNORTHERN
A t l a nA t il ca n t i c Salé Airport
Salé Airport
ATLANTIC
ATLANTIC
COASTCOAST
O c e aOn c e a n Rabat Rabat p90 p90
Ain el Ain el Khemisset

Khemisset
Aouda Aouda
Had el Had el
BrachouaBrachoua
Mohammedia
Mohammedia
Maaziz Maaziz
Benslimane
Benslimane
Casablanca
Casablanca
Casablanca Casablanca Sidi Sidi
MohammedMohammed
V V
International
International
Airport Airport BettacheBettache RommaniRommani
Oulmés Oulmés
EzzhiligaEzzhiliga
El Gara El Gara Moulay Moulay
SOUTHERN
SOUTHERN Bouazza Bouazza
ATLANTIC
ATLANTIC
LagnadizLagnadiz
COASTCOAST Aguelmouss
Aguelmouss
p 122 p 122
Ou Ou
Ben Ahmed
Ben Ahmed ed ed
Gr Gr
ou ou
Settat Settat
Sidi HajjajSidi Hajjaj
Sidi Lamine
Sidi Lamine
KHE
Oued Zem
Oued Zem
BOUJADBOUJAD
Zaouia- Zaouia-
ech-Cheïkh
ech-Cheïkh
TirhboulaTirhboula
Machraà Machraà KASBA KASBA
Ben Abbou
Ben Abbou TADLA TADLA
El-Ksiba El-Ksiba
Fkih-Ben-Salah
El BoroujEl Borouj Fkih-Ben-Salah
El-BoroujEl-Borouj Oulad-Yaïche TarhzirteTarhzirte

Oulad-Yaïche
Béni MellalBéni
Airport
Mellal Airport
HIGH HIGH
ATLASATLAS r - R bia r-Rbia
e e
p260 p260 O u ma d i O u m BENI BENI Forum el-Anser Forum el-Anser
Wa d i W MELLALMELLAL Jbel Tassemit Jbel Tassemit
Dar-Ould-Dar-Ould- 2,248 m 2,248 m
Zidouh Zidouh Oulad- Oulad-(7,375 ) (7,375 )
M’barek M’barek
Ararcha Ararcha
Bin el-Ouidane BIN EL-OUIDANE

Bin el-Ouidane BIN EL-OUIDANE
DAM DAM
El Kelaa El Kelaa
des Sraghna
des Sraghna CASCADES
CASCADES Tilougguite
Tilougguite
D’OUZOUD
D’OUZOUD
Âït-Mhamed
Âït-Mhamed
Taourirt Taourirt Zaouïa- Zaouïa-
FurtherFurther
East East Oulemsi Oulemsi
El Aricha El Aricha
Kenitra Kenitra Fès Fès
Taza Guercif
Taza Guercif
Meknès Meknès
y Msemriry Msemr
Ain Bni Ain Bni le le
al al
Sefrou Sefrou
Mathar Mathar
Ifrane Ifrane Tabant TabantV V
Azrou Azrou ALGERIA ALGERIA
ez ez
em uem
Rommani Rommani
Missour Missour
u
Khenidra Khenidra ug oug
Oued Oued Bo B Âït-Oudinar
Âït-Oudinar
Zem Zem Bouarfa Bouarfa
Aït Aït
Midelt Midelt
Rich Rich
Figuig Figuig
Boudnib Boudnib 0 kilometres
0 kilometres
30 30 N N
0 km 0100
km 100 N N
Area of main
Areamap
of main map 0 miles 0 miles 30 30
0 mile 0 mile 100 100
Sidi-Kacem
Sidi-Kacem MEDITERRANEAN
MEDITERRANEAN
TAZA TAZA
COASTCOAST
AND THE
ANDRIF
THE RIF
p154 p154
GOUFFRE
GOUFFRE DU DU
Moulay Idriss
Moulay Idriss FRIOUATO
FRIOUATO
Zerhoun Zerhoun
Fès Fès JABEL TAZEKKA
JABEL TAZEKKA
NATIONAL
NATIONAL PARK PARK
Fes Sais Fes Sais Bir-Tam-TamBir-Tam-Tam
International Airport Airport
International
Meknès Meknès Merhraoua
Merhraoua
BHALILBHALIL El-MenzelEl-Menzel
SEFROUSEFROU
Ribat-el- Ribat-el-
Boufakrane
Boufakrane IMOUZZER
IMOUZZER Kheyr Kheyr
DU KANDAR
DU KANDAR Jebel Bou Iblane
Jebel Bou Iblane
3,190 m 3,190 m
El-Hajeb El-Hajeb (10,465 ) (10,465 )
Dayet Aoua
Dayet Aoua
s s Jebel Bou Naceur

Jebel Bou Naceur
la la
Skoura Skoura 3,340 m 3,340 m
IFRANEIFRANE (10, 958 ) (10, 958 )
Agourai Agourai AZROU AZROU t t
A A
ImouzzerImouzzer
Marmoucha
Marmoucha
Assaka-n-Tatsa
Assaka-n-Tatsa
MISCHLIFFEN Boulemane
MISCHLIFFEN Boulemane
Tsiwant Tsiwant
l e l e
Âïn- Âïn-
Leuh Leuh
d d
i d i d
Timahdite
Timahdite Enjil Enjil
s M M
SOURCES
SOURCES OF THE OF THE AGUELMANE
AGUELMANE
OUM ER-RBIA
OUM ER-RBIA SIDI ALISIDI ALI
Missour Missour
Zad Pass Zad Pass

Kia-Âït Oufella
Kia-Âït Oufella
KHENIFRA
ENIFRA
AGUELMANE Zeïda
AGUELMANE Zeïda
AZIGZAAZIGZA
Âït-IschakÂït-Ischak El Ksabi El Ksabi
El-KebabEl-Kebab
Midelt Midelt
HIGH HIGH
ATLASATLAS Asoad Asoad
p260 p260
MIDDLE ATLAS
Must Sees GourramaGourrama
Rich Rich
1 Cascades d’Ouzoud
2 Jbel Tazekka National Park
Experience More
3 Taza
4 Bhalil
5 Gouffre du Friouato
Er Rachidia
Er Rachidia
6 Sefrou
7 Imouzzer du Kandar
8 Ifrane
9 Azrou
10 Aguelmane Azigza
rir
11 Aguelmane Sidi Ali
MIDDLE ATLAS
MIDDLE ATLAS
12 Mischliffen
13 Sources of the Oum er-Rbia
14 Khenifra
15 Beni Mellal
16 Bin el-Ouidane Dam
17 Boujad
18 Kasba Tadla
1
CASCADES
D’OUZOUD
EXPERIENCE Middle Atlas
! C3 ⌂ 60 km (40 miles) southwest of Bin el-Ouidane on road R384, or 156 km

(97 miles) from Marrakech via Demnate @ For Beni Mellal-Azilal then grand taxi
One of the most spectacular (and popular) sights in Morocco, the lush setting of
these magnificent falls stands in stark contrast to their sunbaked surroundings.
Thundering down the valley’s reddish cliffs and crashing off a

series of rocky ledges to eventually fall into the canyon of Wadi HIDDEN GEM
el-Abid 100 m (328 ft) below, the Cascades d'Ouzoud are the Imi-n-Ifri
largest waterfalls in Morocco, and arguably the most beautiful Just a short distance
in North Africa. Visit in spring, when the river is at its highest, southwest of the falls
to experience this natural wonder at its most dramatic. is Imi-n-Ifri , a natural
The waterfall can be reached along a rocky footpath stone bridge that has
from which visitors can marvel at the majestic falls and the been partly carved out
permanent rainbow mist that hovers above the plunge pools. by the river. A track
Bathing is permitted in the natural pools, while energetic leads down to the
visitors can hike further along the river bed, or embark on a bottom of the chasm.
more adventurous treck to the nearby Wadi el-Abid gorge.
Did You Know?

The falls' Berber name
translates as "the grinding
of the grain" – a reference
to the many mills that
once operated here
The stunning
natural beauty of the
Cascades d'Ouzoud
216
Must See
1 Rocky
outcrops are
linked by ramshackle
footbridges, while basic cafés and
small fruit stands line the riverbank.
2 Boats take visitors right
to the base of the waterfalls.
3 Mist from the waterfalls creates an
ideal environment for lush vegetation
to grow, such as moss and fruit trees.
2 3
BARBARY
MACAQUES
The Barbary macaque
is the only primate
(other than humans)
that lives north of the
Sahara, inhabiting
parts of Morocco,
Algeria and Gibraltar.
As few as 6,000 remain
in the wild, with
between 4,000 and
5,000 living in Morocco,
mostly in the Middle
Atlas. They are easy
to spot as they travel
in large troupes. Be
warned, they can be
aggressive and will
snatch food from your
hands, whether it was
meant for them or not.
217
2
JBEL TAZEKKA
NATIONAL
PARK
! E2 ∑ tazekka.com
Just southwest of Taza, this

expansive national park offers
both beauty and grandeur, with
scenery that includes thundering
waterfalls, seasonal lakes, eerie
caves and high mountain passes,
as well as some exotic wildlife.
Established in 1950 to protect the cedar

forests of Jbel Tazekka, this national park
offers a spectacular tour southwest of Taza.
In the middle of a valley of almond, cherry
and fig trees are the Cascades de Ras el-Oued GREAT VIEW
waterfalls. The winding road crosses the fertile Mountainous
plateau of the Chiker, a dry lake bed with Heights
calciferous rock structures. During the rainier Beyond the Bab
months (November to April) it becomes a small Taka mountain pass,
lake (dayet) fed by underground water. a narrow track leads
A short drive away are the Gouffre du Friouato over 9 km (5.5 miles)
caves (p221), one of the main attractions of the to the summit of Jbel
area. Possibly the most impressive caves in Tazekka. From the peak
northern Africa – so vast they have still not there is a fine view
been fully explored – they are also the only north over the Rif’s
ones open to visitors. mountains, west over
The park is home to an abundance of animal the plain of Fès and
and bird life, including the rare Barbary or Atlas south to the higher
deer, extinct in the wild until reintroduced into foothills of the Middle
the park in 1994. There are also Barbary wild Atlas and the snowy
peaks of Jbel Boulblanc.
boar, crested porcupines, golden jackals and
small, spotted, cat-like animals called genets.
Visitors descending into the

Gouffre de Friouato caves
218
Must See
Did You Know?

The stunning
Ras el-Oued waterfalls
only flow between
November and April.
The rushing waterfalls and green

riverbanks (inset) in spring,
Tazekka National Park
219
EXPERIENCE MORE
before going on to take Fès.
3 The old town, built on a rocky 4
Taza hill, overlooks the new town Bhalil
below, which the French began
! E2 £ From Oujda, Fès and ! D2 ⌂ 6 km (4 miles)
to build in 1920. The walls
Meknès @ From Nador, Al- northwest of Sefrou

surrounding the medina date
Hoceima, Fès and Oujda
mostly from the 12th century. Set on the side of a hill, the
n 56 Avenue Mohammed V
Moulay Ismaïl, of the Alaouite village of Bhalil is notable for
Located on the route between dynasty, embellished the its hundreds of unique cave
Fès and Oujda, in the lower town and heightened its role houses, the majority of which
foothills of the Rif and the as a military stronghold on are used for the storage of
Middle Atlas, the town of Taza the eastern frontier. cattlefeed. Some of the caves,
is a stopping place that seldom The Andalusian Mosque however, have been converted
figures on the tourist route. It stands at the entrance to the into comfortable homes for
is, however, one of the oldest medina, from where the main the local population. They
towns in Morocco. street runs through to the stay relatively cool in summer
Taza was founded in the 8th Grand Mosque. Founded by and keep out the worst of the
century by the Meknassa, a the Almohad sultan Abd el- cold in winter. The caves are
Berber tribe, and was regularly Moumen in 1135, it is one of often used as salons, with
seized by sultans who wished the oldest mosques in Morocco. bedrooms and bathrooms
to establish their authority It is closed to non-Muslims, built adjacently or above in
who will have to settle with the conventional fashion, and
imagining the interior of the fronted by a regular façade, so
magnificent pierced dome and it is not obvious at first glance
500 the fine bronze candelabrum.

There is a lively souk in the
medina, as well as an unusually
which of the houses are built
around caves and which are
not. However, visitors are
The approximate wide minaret. Bab er-Rih, in usually approached on arrival
number of caves the north of the town, offers a by a local guide, who will offer
dotting the landscape splendid view of the orchards a tour of the village for a small
around the village and olive trees below, the hills fee. There is a small, four-room
of Bhalil. of the Rif and the slopes of guesthouse in the village
Jbel Tazzeka. where you can stay overnight.
A small village Mosque

nestled among the rolling
hills of the Middle Atlas
220
The town is bisected by Wadi Relaxing in the walled
5 Aggaï, which irrigates the mellah of Sefrou, a town
Gouffre du Friouato surrounding fertile plain. Four steeped in Jewish history
bridges link the two parts of
! E2 ⌂ 22 km (13.5 miles)
the town. South of the wadi is
southwest of Taza
the mellah, the former Jewish
This natural chasm, which was quarter, a district of narrow 7
first explored in 1934, is open winding streets. North of the Imouzzer du Kandar
to visitors, although sturdy wadi is the old medina, with
! D2
walking boots are necessary. its souks centred around the
A flight of 500 slippery steps Grand Mosque and the zaouia The small hillside town of
leads down to the cave. It of Sidi Lahcen Lyoussi, who Imouzzer du Kandar overlooks
contains galleries and halls became patron saint of Sefrou the Saïss plain, which abuts
filled with stalactites, stalag in the 18th century. On the the plateaux of the Middle
mites and other formations. north side of the town, just Atlas. The dilapidated kasbah
The adjacent Chiker Caves are outside the ramparts, is a of the Aït Serchouchène,
open only to speleologists. crafts centre where leather where the souk takes place,
goods, pottery and wrought contains cave dwellings, of
iron items are made. which the region has many.
The road following the river The caves were dug into the
6 west of Sefrou leads to the Kef hillside and protected Berbers
Sefrou elMoumen Caves, a series of from enemy attacks. Some are
natural caves in the cliff face still inhabited. The openings –
! D2 @ From Fès and Midelt
containing tombs that are no more than a small door
This ancient town has always venerated by both Muslims and a few ventilation holes –
stood in the shadow of Fès, and Jews. One of them is said are small to keep out the cold,
the imperial capital. It takes to be that of the prophet and the spartan interiors have
its name from the Ahel Sefrou, Daniel. The Wadi Aggaï Falls neither water nor electricity.
a Berber tribe that converted here bring a welcome fresh
to Judaism 2,000 years ago ness to the surrounding hills.
and was then Islamicized by The greenroofed Koubba INSIDER TIP
Idriss I in the 8th century. In of Sidi bou Ali Serghine, to the Cherry Festival
the 12th century, trade with west of town, offers a scenic This celebration takes
the Sahara brought Sefrou view over Sefrou and the hills place at the end of the
prosperity. A century later, it of Kandar. Nearby is the mira June cherry harvest.
became home to a large colony culous spring of Lalla Rekia, A colourful procession
of Jews who had fled from the which is reputed to cure culminates in the coro
Tafilalt and southern Algeria. mental illness. nation of the Cherry
In 1950, a third of Sefrou’s A minor road east of Sefrou Queen, selected during
population was Jewish, but the leads to the small town of El a pageant that draws
majority of Jews emigrated to Menzel. The kasbah here over competitors from the
Israel in 1967, and the town is looks the Sebou Gorge, which across the country.
now mostly Muslim. has impressively sheer cliffs.
221
The Middle Atlas mountains

surrounding the regional
market town of Azrou
made by the Beni M’Gild.

8 9 During the Protectorate the
Ifrane Azrou town became a health resort,
and highly reputed treatment
! D2 ⌂ 63 km (39 miles) ! D2 ⌂ 48 km (30 miles)
centres are still found here. It
south of Fès on road N8 south of Ifrane on road N8
is also the departure point for
@ From Fès and Azrou @ From Meknès, Fès,
tours of the cedar forests and
n Avenue Mohammed V; Marrakech and Er-Rachidia
plateaux. The nearby lakes
(0535) 56 68 21 n Ifrane; (0535) 566821
offer trout, pike and roach
Established in 1929 during the A large outcrop of volcanic fishing (permits compulsory).
Protectorate, Ifrane is a small rock at the entrance to the North of Azrou, the road to
town with more of a European town gave Azrou (meaning El-Hajeb runs along the edge
than a Moroccan character. It “rock” in Berber) its name. of the Balcon d’Ito plateaux,
is cool even in summer and Located at the crossroads of offering good views of the
may be snow-bound from routes linking Meknès and “lunar” landscape. The Berber
December to March. On the Erfoud, and Fès and Marrakech, hill village of Aïn Leuh, 32 km
descent into the valley, a green- the town nestles in the centre
roofed palace, the King’s sum- of a geological basin, with Jbel
mer residence, comes into view. Hebri to the southeast. It is
Al-Akhawaya University, inau- circled by a dense belt of cedar
gurated by Hassan II in 1995, and holm oak, where the Beni
has contributed considerably M’Gild, the most prominent
to the town’s development. Berber tribe in the region,
Ifrane serves as the depar- came to spend their summers.
ture point for many tours, These nomadic pastoralists
including a trip to the water- decided to stay and founded
falls known as the Cascades the town.
des Vierges, within the Ifrane Azrou is still a regional mar-
National Park, 3 km (2 miles) ket town, with a large weekly
west (follow the signs to Source souk. At the crafts centre
Vittel), and north to the zaouia items made of cedar, thuya,
of Ifrane, which is surrounded walnut and juniper are on sale,
by caves and koubbas. as are wrought-iron objects
Road R707 out of Ifrane, and the renowned carpets
going up to the Tizi-n-Tretten
Pass, leads to the Forêt de
Cèdres. After running along the
Mischliffen and Jbel Hebri, it A visitor standing on a
reaches a legendary 900-year- bridge at the waterfalls in
old cedar, the Cèdre Gouraud. Ifrane National Park
222
(20 miles) south of Azrou,
hosts the Middle Atlas Arts THE LIONS OF THE ATLAS
Festival in July. There is a souk Before World War I, the roaring of lions in the Moroccan
on Mondays and Thursdays. Atlas could be heard at dusk and during the night. Sadly,
the last of the Atlas lions was killed in 1922. During the
Roman period, lions were plentiful in North Africa. They
flourished in Tunisia until the 17th century, although by
10
1891 not one remained. In Algeria, the last lion was killed
Aguelmane Azigza in 1893. The lions of the Atlas were large, with a thick
mane that was very dark or almost black. Because the
! D3 ⌂ 12 km (7.5 miles)
genetic make-up of the Atlas lion is known, it should be
south of the sources of the
possible to bring this extinct sub-species back to life.
Oum er-Rbia
With this end in view, a breeding programme is under
The rivers whose sources lie in way, using lions bred in zoos and conservation areas,
the heart of the Middle Atlas most particularly the zoo in Rabat.
have formed lakes in the
craters of extinct volcanoes.
One such is Aguelmane Azigza. the road climbs up to the Zad
It is enclosed by cliffs and Pass, the highest in the Middle 13
forests of cedar and holm oak Atlas at 2,178 m (7,148 ft). Sources of
and contains plenty of fish. the Oum er-Rbia
! X9 ⌂ 160 km (99 miles)
12 from Fès and from Beni
11 Mischliffen Mellal; note there are no
hotels or petrol stations on
Aguelmane Sidi Ali
! D2 road N8 between Azrou
! X9 ⌂ Junction with N13 and Khenifra
A shallow bowl surrounded by
A right turn off road N13 from cedar forests, Mischliffen is the A winding road runs above
Azrou to Midelt leads you to crater of an extinct volcano. the valley of the Oum er-Rbia,
Aguelmane Sidi Ali, a deep, The villages here are out- then leads down to the wadi
fish-filled lake 3 km (2 miles) numbered by the tents of the at the bottom of the valley.
long and at high altitude. With shepherds who bring their The river’s sources – more
Jbel Hayane rising above, it is flocks for summer grazing. A than 40 springs that can be
surrounded by rugged hills winter sports resort (also called explored via footpath – form
and desolate pasture where Mischliffen) has been set up cascades that crash down the
the Beni M’Gild’s flocks are among the trees. However, limestone cliffs, joining to
brought for summer grazing. the facilites, which consist of form the Oum er-Rbia, the
Continuing towards Midelt, just two ski lifts, are quite basic. longest river in Morocco.
THE MOUNTAINS OF MOROCCO
With the Rif rising dramatically on the northern coast, the Middle
Atlas and the High Atlas dominating the interior, and the lesser-
known Anti-Atlas to the south, Morocco is a land dominated by
mountains. In sharp contrast to the arid deserts and sunbaked valleys
so often associated with Morocco’s terrain, lush forests and verdant
slopes command the country’s higher ground. The climate here is
permanently moist, and the vegetation particularly luxuriant, making

it an ideal home for an abundance of wildlife, including a number of
endemic plant and animal species.
HIKING IN THE HIGH ATLAS multi-day hikes with a guide, during

Forming a barrier between the which you will be able to see a wealth
Mediterranean and Atlantic coastlines of wildlife. Popular routes include Jbel
and the Sahara Desert, the soaring peaks Toubkal Massif, North Africa’s tallest
of the High Atlas are by far the most peak (p274). The summit can be reached
breathtaking of Morocco’s mountain in two days and climbing it does not
ranges. Extending 2,500 km (1,600 miles) require a high level of experience as a
across the most northwesterly mountaineer. The only disadvantage is
tip of the African continent, and rising that this is where most hikers come in the
to heights of 4,167 m (13,671 ft), the High high season, so you will not be alone. In
Atlas are primarily inhabited by nomadic the central High Atlas, the Ait Bouguemez
Berber populations. What’s more, this Valley (p264) offers some fine trails.
spectacular mountain range, cut off Starting from Demnate, the route is not
from the chaotic clammer of city life, is particularly demanding and passes
surprisingly accessable from Marrakech. through a striking variety of landscapes,
Many tour operators offer day trips or from lush valleys to precipitous peaks.
The Tessaout valley, considered

one of the most beautiful in the
central High Atlas
Aleppo pine can

grow to a height of
25 m (82 ft).
The carob produces

sugar-rich pods that are
a nutritious food for both
Forests of Atlas cedar are impressive humans and animals.
for their sheer size, and the trees for
their beauty and their height, which Argan
can exceed 50 m (164 ft)
Kermes oak
224
MOUNTAIN FLORA AND FAUNA
Aleppo pine, carob, holme oak,and forests
of Atlas cedar thrive on well watered slopes.
The Barbary sheep, Africa’s only wild sheep,
inhabits the High and Middle Atlas. It can be
seen in Jbel Toubkal National Park, which
was created especially to ensure its survival.
The Barbary stag was reintroduced in 1990.
1 Three-quarters of the country’s population
of macaques live in the cedar forests of the
Middle Atlas. Birdlife is plentiful, and includes
the golden eagle, Moussier’s redstart and the
rare crimson-winged finch, which only nests
at altitudes above 2,800 m (9,190 ft).
Conservation efforts are underway in both
Mediterranean and Saharan ecoregions to
preserve Morocco’s rich botanical diversity.
1 The Barbary sheep is
2 threatened by poaching
and competition from
domestic stock.
2 Aleppo pine trees
thrive on the steep
mountain slopes.
3 Barbary macaques live
in family groups in the
High Atlas mountains.
Illustration depicting the

varying terrain of Morocco’s
High Atlas mountain slopes Juniper
Atlas cedar
Did You Know?

Holm oak The mountains were
once home to the Atlas
Barbary
Bear, the only bear
thuya
native to Africa. It is
now extinct.
225
14 15 GREAT VIEW
Khenifra Beni Mellal Ras el-Aïn
South of Beni Mellal, a
! D3 ⌂ 160 km (99 miles) ! D3 ⌂ 30 km (18.5 miles)
road marked “Circuit
from Fès; 130 km (81 miles) southwest of Kasba Tadla
touristique” leads to the
from Beni Mellal @ From on road N8 @ From
Aïn Asserdoun springs.
Fès and Marrakech Khenifra, Marrakech and
Make the short detour
Demnate n Avenue to Ras el-Aïn further up,
In the folds of the arid hills
Hassan II; (0523) 48 78 29 where a stone-and-pisé

and on the banks of the Oum
or (0529) 80 24 79 tower offers a pictur-
er-Rbia stand houses painted
in carmine red. Until the 17th The modern town of Beni esque view of Beni
century, Khenifra was the Mellal lies at the foot of the Mellal and its orchards.
rallying point of the Zaïane Middle Atlas, on the edge of
tribe, which resisted French the great Tadla plain. Although
attempts to pacify the region. it is devoid of any obvious and olive groves stretch to the
In the 18th century Moulay appeal, it is still a convenient horizon. Beetroot and sugar-
Ismaïl asserted his authority stopping place. cane have replaced bananas
by building imposing kasbahs Inhabited by Berbers and as cultivated crops. All are
here. The livestock market is Jews well before the arrival of unusually well watered thanks
now one of the town’s few Islam, the town was known to the Bin el-Ouidane dam.
interesting aspects. successively as Day, Kasba The area around Beni Mellal
The village of El-Kebab clings Belkouche and Beni Mellal. In has many waterfalls, springs,
to a hillside 35 km (22 miles) the 13th century, it stood on caves and wooded gorges
southeast of Khenifra. Here the border between Fès and populated by monkeys. About
craftsmen make pottery and Marrakech, which were the 10 km (6 miles) east, a road
carpets. Above the village is subjects of bitter dispute leads to Foum el-Anser, where
the hermitage where Albert between the Merinid and a waterfall crashes into a gorge.
Peyriguère, a doctor and com- Almohad dynasties. The rockface here is marked
panion to the French ascetic The town is surrounded by by artificial caves, access to
Charles de Foucauld, lived. orange groves (oranges from which is difficult. South of
A souk is held on Mondays. Beni Mellal are renowned), Beni Mellal, a hillside track
leads up to Jbel Tassemit,
which is the departure point
for scenic mountain hikes.
Hikers can also reach the
Tarhzirte Gorge and the Wadi
Derna valley, 20 km (12 miles)
northeast of Beni Mellal.
16
Bin el-Ouidane Dam
! C3 ⌂ 43 km (27 miles)
southwest of Beni Mellal on
road N8, branching left on
road R304
From Beni Mellal the road

climbs through wooded hills
to reach the grandiose site of
an artificial lake, the Bin el-
Ouidane reservoir, the largest
lake in Morocco. Fed by Wadi
el-Abid and Wadi Ahansalt,
it irrigates the intensively
Waterfalls marking one of

the sources of the Oum er-
Rbia in the Khenifra hills
Cacti growing on the
red hills surrounding the
Ben el-Ouidane reservoir
18
Kasba Tadla
! D3 ⌂ 82 km (51 miles)
southwest of Khenifra on
road N8 @ From Beni Mellal
and Khenifra n Beni Mellal
The focal point of this former

garrison town is, predictably,
the kasbah, built by Moulay
Ismaïl in the 17th century. So
as to subdue rebellious tribes,
he made his son governor of
cultivated Tadla plain, while have always been highly vener- the province. The latter built a
the hydroelectric generator ated by the Beni Meskin and second kasbah. A double line
provides a quarter of Morocco’s Seguibat, local Berber tribes- of walls thus surrounds the
electricity. The turquoise waters people. Resentful of this power, town, enclosing two dilapida-
of the lake, which are broken sultan Sidi Mohammed ben ted mosques and the former
by spits of land and small Abdallah razed the town in governor’s palace. Below the
islands, are surrounded by 1785. The zaouia was rebuilt town, a 10-span bridge
red hills, and the lakeshore is in the 19th century and still crosses Wadi Oum er-Rbia.
dotted with isolated houses. houses the saint’s descendants. Plantations of olive trees
Watersports and fishing are The tombs of the saintly cover the plain between Kasba
permitted, and Wadi el-Abid dynasty can be seen around Tadla and Khenifra, and many
is suitable for kayaking and the market square in the north olive mills line the road at
rafting in spring, when the of the town. The largest, the Tirhboula, 10 km (6 miles)
water level is sufficiently high. Koubba of Sidi Othman, is from Khenifra. In the autumn,
A track leading from the lake open to visitors. There are visitors can see the various
ends at a rock formation known many other mausoleums here, stages in the oil-producing
as La Cathédrale. This rock, most notably that of the sheik process and buy olive oil here.
with a covering of red soil and Mohammed ech-Cherki, which El-Ksiba is an attractive
a setting among Aleppo pines, is closed to non-Muslims. village on the edge of the
is well known to abseilers. On a promontory outside forest 22 km (13.5 miles) east
From here, Azilal and the Aït Boujad, in the direction of of Kasba Tadla. It has a souk,
Bouguemez valley (p264) can Oued Zem on the northern which is very busy on Sundays.
be reached on road R304. side of the town, stand five Beyond El-Ksiba, the road
white koubbas, to which crosses the High Atlas via
crowds of pilgrims come for Imilchil, descending to
annual gatherings. Tinerhir in the south.
17
Boujad
! D3 ⌂ 24 km (15 miles)
OLIVE OIL
north of Kasba Tadla on In autumn, green, black
road R312 and violet olives are
harvested. A heavy
The holy town of Boujad, grindstone turned by
which is filled with koubbas donkeys grinds them,
(tombs) and shrines, is set in and the resulting pulp is
the Tadla plain, on the caravan emptied into large porous
route that once ran between containerss beneath the
Marrakech and Fès. It was esta- press. The oil seeps out
blished in the 16th century by and runs into vats,
Sidi Mohammed ech-Cherki, where, mixed with
patron saint of Tadla, who built water, it floats to the
an important zaouia here. surface, free of debris.
The saint and his descendants
227
A DRIVING TOUR
INLAND LAKES MIDDLE
Inland Lakes ATLAS
Length 60 km (37 miles) Departure point The town

of Dayet Aoua, 6 km (10 miles) north of Ifrane on the N8,
forking left to visit the lake of the same name
Three attractive lakes – Dayet Aoua, Dayet Ifrah and Locator Map
Dayet Hachlaf – lie 9 km (6.5 miles) south of Imouzzer du For more detail see p214
Kandar. A turning off road N8 leads to Dayet Aoua, which
formed in a natural depression. The narrow road running
along it leads to Dayet Ifrah, surrounded by a cirque of
mountains, and on to Dayet Hachlaf. Beyond a forestry
hut, a track on the right leads to the Vallée des Roches.
Dayet Aoua lake sits in a natural
depression surrounded by hills. It
can remain dry for several years in a
Imouzzer
When the lakes are full, the Kandar row due to persistent drought and
area becomes a bird the irrigation of orchards in the area.
sanctuary. It attracts
waders (such as avocets and
cattle egrets), wildfowl, birds
of prey (such as red kites and
kestrels) and swallows. Laanoussar
Dayet Dayet Aoua

Aoua
START
Bird
Sanctuary
A track on the right,

beyond the forestry hut,
leads to the Vallée des
Roches – with its outcrops
of limestone shaped by
erosion – and to caves
Vallée des Roches inhabited by bats.
Dayet
Forestry Hut Ifrah
Dayet
Hachlaf
Ifrane
Rock
Formations
Surrounded by hills, Dayet
FINISH Ifrah is one of the largest
lakes in the area. Two hamlets
face each other across the
water, their white minarets
rising up into the sky.
Continuing along track P7231 towards

the Ifrane-Mischliffen road, a rough
track branching off to the right leads
0 kilometres 4 N to these rock formations, which
have the appearance of ruins.
0 miles 4
228
Canyon landscape in the
High Atlas; hikers by the
Dayet Aoua lake (inset)
Shaded souk, Marrakech
MARRAKECH
Marrakech was founded in 1062 by Almoravids
from the Sahara. These warrior monks soon carved
out an empire that stretched from Algiers to Spain.
In 1106, Ali ben Youssef hired craftsmen from
Andalusia to build a palace and a mosque in the
capital. He also raised ramparts around the city
and installed khettaras (underground canals),
creating an ingenious irrigation system that
brought water to its great palm grove.
The Almohads took the city in 1147. Under
their reign the Koutoubia, a masterpiece of
Moorish architecture, and the kasbah were built.
The Almohad dynasty collapsed, to the benefit
of the Merinids of Fès, and for over 200 years
Marrakech stagnated. It was not until the 16th
century that the city was reinvigorated by the
arrival of the Saadians, most notably by the
wealthy Ahmed el-Mansour. The Saadian Tombs,
the Ben Youssef Medersa and the remains of the
Palais el-Badi mark this golden age. In 1668,
Marrakech fell to the Alaouites, who made Fès,
then Meknès, their capital.
However, with a population approaching a
million, Marrakech remains the capital of the south
of Morocco and, although it is now only Morocco’s
fourth city after Casablanca, Fès and Rabat, its
fabulous palaces and luxuriant palm still hold a
powerful fascination for visitors.
231
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MARRAKECH
DOUAR
DOUAR FEKHARA
FEKHARA Must Sees
1 Koutoubia Mosque
2 Jemaa el-Fna
Bab
ich
D D 3 The Souks
4 Ben Youssef Medersa
E
E
S
S
5 Majorelle Garden
EL EL Experience More
R
R
MOUKEF
OUKEF 6 Zaouia of Sidi bel Abbès
E
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M
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P A
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7 Zaouia of Sidi ben Slimane el-Jazouli

B
KAWTAR
KAWTAR
R T S
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8 Chrob ou Chouf Fountain

9 The Tanneries
K HEMI
R Bab
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KHA KHA
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11 Musée de Marrakech
DE R B S
DE R B S
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12 Dar Bellaj
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13 Maison de la Photographie
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14 Bab Doukkala Mosque
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15 Mouassine Quarter
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PLACE SIDI
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S I LT
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1
KOUTOUBIA
MOSQUE
EXPERIENCE Marrakech
 B3 ⌂ Place de la Koutoubia § (0524) 43 61 31/79 ¢ To non-Muslims
In about 1147, to mark his victory over the Almoravids, the Almohad
sultan Abd el-Moumen set about building one of the largest mosques
in the Western Muslim world. It was built on the site of a levelled 11th-
century mosque, whose misalignment with Mecca – as legend goes –
displeased the pious Almohads. Today it remains the largest mosque
in Marrakech, an eye-catching meeting point in the heart of the city.
The “Booksellers’ Mosque” takes its name

from the manuscripts souk that once took HEIGHTS OF
place around it. Its exterior has been restored GOOD TASTE
to reveal the original pink colour of the brick The Koutoubia minaret’s
work, which is made from splendid Guéliz continued dominion
stone. Inside, the prayer hall can accommo over the skyline is owed
date some 20,000 faithful. to an enlightened piece
The Koutoubia’s minaret, a masterpiece of of legislation imposed
Islamic architecture, was completed during the by the city’s former
reign of Yacoub elMansour, grandson of Abd el French colonial rulers.
Moumen. Each side of the tower has a different They decreed that no
decorative scheme, although all are adorned building in the Medina
with flower motifs, arched windows should rise above the
and inscriptions. It later height of a palm tree,
served as the model for and that no building in
the Giralda in Seville, the New City should rise
and for the Hassan above the height of the
Tower in Rabat minaret. The ruling still
(p84). The tower’s holds today; the tower
interior contains stands 70 m (230 ft)
a ramp used to high, in proportions
carry building that obey the canons of
materials up to Almohad architecture
the summit. (its height equals five
times its width). Only
Muslims are allowed to
enjoy the unforgettable
The minaret’s arched views from the top.
windows, surrounded
by flower motifs
Sun setting
over the
mosque’s
spectacular
rose-hued
buildings
234
Must See
INSIDER TIP
Sneak Peek
Although access to the
mosque is denied to
non-Muslims, one of the
doors on the east wall is
often open, so visitors
can peer through for a
view of the prayer hall
and its seemingly
endless arcades of
horseshoe arches.
The minaret of Koutoubia

Mosque, towering above the
bustle of central Marrakech
235
2-=
JEMAA EL-FNA
 C3 ⌂ East of Guéliz (off Avenue Mohammed V)
EAT
Night Market
For centuries, this unique and extraordinary square Food Stalls
Every visitor to
has been the nerve centre of Marrakech, its frenetic
Marrakech should
energy a symbol of the city, and its nightly events and venture to the square at
storytellers a showcase of traditional Morocco. night to experience the
Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2001, this lively unmissable chaos and
square has a gruesome past: until the 19th century, criminals clammer of the night
on whom the death sentence had been passed were beheaded market. Vendors jostle
here. Sometimes up to 45 people were executed on a single for your custom, but in
day, their heads pickled and suspended from the city gates. reality all offer the same
No trace of this is left today, however. A market is held in the dishes of freshly grilled
mornings, where medicinal plants, freshly squeezed orange meats, fish, vegetables
juice and all kinds of nuts and confectionery are sold. From and local delicacies.
sunset, the life and bustle on the square reaches its peak. It ⌂ Jemaa el-Fna
becomes the arena of a gigantic, multifaceted open-air show. 
As the air fills with smoke from grilling meat and the aroma
of spices, the square throngs with musicians, dancers and
storytellers who draw in crowds of astonished onlookers.
Jemaa el-Fna, as viewed from

one of the terraced restaurants
surrounding the square
236
Must See
1 Gnaoua musicians and dancers perform
for onlookers at Jemaa el-Fna.
2 Locals and visitors descend on the
square every evening to enjoy traditional
Moroccan cuisine and experience the
infectious energy of the night market.
3 These colourful leather slippers, known
as babouches, are worn all over Morocco
and can be picked up in any souk. Yellow is
the traditional colour, but other colours and
more elaborate designs are also available. 1
2 3
MARRAKECH’S ORAL TRADITION

Professional storytellers, or halakat,
have been enchanting spectators on
Jemaa el-Fna since the city was founded.
They recite ancient Moroccan folk tales
to rapt crowds that pay a few coins for
the experience. Traditionally these
oral expressions combine speech and
gesture to teach, entertain and charm
the audience. Nowadays only a few still
work the square, and they have adapted
their art for a contemporary audience.
Café Clock (p253) in the Kasbah is
keeping the tradition alive with
authentic storytelling sessions every
Monday and Thursday.
237
3\-= PICTURE PERFECT
THE SOUKS
Souk des
Teintures
In Souk des Teintures,
 C3 ⌂ Place Jemaa el-Fna (via Rue du Souk Smarine or Bab brightly hued skeins of
Doukkala) @ Or petit taxi as far as the entrance to the freshly dyed wool are
hung out above the
souks, which must be explored on foot # 9am–7pm daily
alley to dry in the sun,
¢ Noon–4pm Fri
an irresistible shot for
Marrakech’s earliest inhabitants made their living from photographers.
trade. Luxuries like gold and ivory came from the south,
while leather, metalwork and ceramics went north. Trade
continues to be the city’s mainstay, with thousands of 3
craftsmen making a living in the maze that fills the Criée Berbère
northern half of the medina. A wide range of goods is Up until French occupation,
on offer, leatherwork being particularly prominent. well into the 20th century, this
Around this commercial hub are crafts such as black partially roofed section of the
smithing, saddlemaking and basketry. The tanneries souk was used for the buying
and their rank odours are banished to the edge of the and selling of African slaves.
city. A trip to the souks is part history lesson, part Fortunately, these days only
carpets are auctioned here,
endurance trial, testing just how long you can keep every afternoon at 3:30pm. At
your money in your pocket. other times throughout the
day, carpets and rugs can be
bought the usual way from the
1 2 dozens of shops filling the
Souk Semarine Rabha Kedima surrounding alleys, collectively
Entered via an elaborate arch Meaning “the old place”, Rahba known as the Souk des Tapis,
just north of Jemaa El Fna, Kedima is where country folk or Carpet Market.
Souk Semarine is broad and sell fruit, vegetables and live
covered with wooden trellising chickens. There are also sellers
that patterns the street with of raffia bags and baskets.
shadows. Traditionally, this Around the edges are spice 4
street specialized in textiles, and “magic” stalls, where Souk el-Attarin
but these days the cloth and healers buy their supplies. Branching off Souk Semarine,
clothing merchants are A small passageway on the the street that bears the name
outnumbered by those selling northern side leads through the “Spice Market” no longer
trinkets and souvenirs. to the Criée Berbère. trades in pungent powders,
238
Must See
6
Strips of sunlight breaking
Souk Haddadin
through the covered passage
that divides Souk Semarine At the northern end of Souk NAVIGATING
Attarin, the sound of hammer- THE SOUKS
ing announces Souk Haddadin, You will get lost in the
perfumes and oils as it did the ironworkers’ quarter. In souks. The alleys are
in the old days but instead dark, cavern-like workshops, narrow, winding and
it is brimming with sellers craftsmen hammer hot metal, constantly branching,
of lamps, trays, teapots and shaping it into lanterns, ash- while landmarks are
mirrors as well as peddlers trays, platters and the like. few. However, the area
of inexpensive souvinirs. One is relatively small and
narrow side street is wholly you’re never more than
devoted to the sale of the a few minutes’ walk
colourful soft-leather slippers 7 back to Jemaa el-Fna.
known as babouches. Souk des Teintures As such, a guide is not
On the western edge of the especially necessary.
souks, is Souk des Teinturiers, Any places you may be
an area of dyers’ workshops. lead to are often only
5 Labourers rub dyes into hides “the best” because they
Kissaria from the tanneries (p245) and offer your guide the
Strung in between Souk el- dunk wool into vats of variously highest commission.
Attarin and Souk el-Kebir (the coloured liquids. Oddly though, Watch out for the
northern extension of Souk you’ll find no fabric shops here, constant stream of
Semarine) is this network of instead the area is populated scooters and bicycles
parallel, impossibly narrow with specialists in lanterns in the narrow lanes.
alleys with covered souks and ceramics.
known as kissaria. This is the
deep heart of the souks of
Marrakech, where among the
traditional vendors of fabric
and leather goods you will
also find some surprisingly
high-end designer boutiques
RUE
Ben Youssef Medersa

DE
(with price labels that match) Mosque Ben Youssef

RB
AS
SO
SO
UE
offering quality homeware
UK
L
JE D
items such as lanterns, R U E DA R E L BAC

Musée de
ID
HA
glassware, Berber rugs BAB RUE
DO DE Marrakech
UK
and antiques, as well as KA
L A
E
fashion and accessories.

SIN
Souk Haddadin
S
RUE MOUA
Souk el-Attarin RU
E A
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Kissaria
SO U K A
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U
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R
An assortment of PLACE DE
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QUESSABI
NE
lanterns glowing RU E DA B AC H I
in Souk Haddadin
0 metres 150 N
PLACE JEMAA EL-FNA
0 yards 150
Did You Know?
Occupying 130 tiny
rooms above the central
courtyard, nearly 900
students studied here
at any one time.
4"'
BEN YOUSSEF
MEDERSA
 C2 ⌂ Place Ben Yousseff ¢ For renovation until 2019 ∑ medersa-ben-youssef.com
Elaborately decorated with colourful zellij tilework, stucco archways and intricately
carved plasterwork, the sheer opulence of this former Islamic school is testament
to its elevated status as an important centre of learning and religion.
This Koranic school is not only one of the finest

but also one of the largest in the Maghreb.
It was founded by the Merinid sultan Abou el-
Hassan in the mid-14th century, and rebuilt
by the Saadian sultan Moulay Abdallah in the
16th century. The medersa takes its name from
the Almoravid mosque of Ali ibn Youssef to
which it was once attached. For four centuries
this mosque was the focal point of worship
in the medina, and with the medersa it
constituted an important centre of religion.
Green-tiled roof and minaret of Ben

Youssef Mosque and Medersa
240
Must See
Visitors admire the dazzlingly

intricate tilework of the
medersa’s inner courtyard
For four centuries this

mosque was the focal point
of worship in the medina,
and with the medersa it
constituted an important
centre of religion.
Study materials on display in

one of the basic student cells
that surround the courtyard
A masterpiece of Moorish design, this

harmoniously proportioned medersa appears THE SAADIANS: MARRAKECH’S
as it was originally intended, with no later GOLDEN AGE OF ARCHITECTURE
alteration. The dome, decorated with exquisite The Saadians were a tribe from the Draa
stalactites, can be seen from the street. The valley who dethroned the Merenids of
main entrance, a bronze door topped by a Fès and made Marrakech their royal
carved cedar lintel, opens onto a mosaic-paved city. They established strong trading
corridor, which in turn leads to an opulent links with Europe and used the wealth
courtyard complete with an ablutions pool. they accrued to turn Marrakech into
The walls are decorated with intricate zellij one of the most opulent cities in the
tilework and carved plaster. A magnificently Arab world. They rebuilt the city’s Ali
ornate wooden doorway leads through to Ben Youssef Mosque and a medersa of
the large prayer hall, which is crowned by a the same name, and they created the
pyramidal cedar dome and divided into three lavish royal complex known as the
by marble columns The mihrab is decorated Palais el-Badi (p252).
with verses from the Koran.
241
5"
MAJORELLE GARDEN
 A5 ⌂ Avenue Yacoub el-Mansour (near the bus station) # Summer: 8am–5pm daily;
winter: 8am–5:30pm daily ∑ jardinmajorelle.com
The most famous of Marrakech’s numerous gardens is a small paradise in the

heart of the Ville Nouvelle. It is the legacy of expatriate French painter and self-
procliamed “gardenist” Jacques Majorelle, who created a beautiful botanical
sanctuary to surround his studio.
In 1923, Jacques Majorelle fell in love with Morocco and in

Marrakech he built himself a splendid Moorish villa, around INSIDER TIP
which he laid out a luxuriant garden and Art Deco studio The Early Bird...
with pergolas and deep blue walls. After Majorelle's death, To avoid the crowds
the property sadly fell into a state of disrepair. (and the stifling heat),
Bought by the famous couturier Yves Saint-Laurent in 1980 plan to visit the garden
and skilfully restored, the garden is divided by four walkways early in the morning,
that cross each other to create parterres of brightly coloured when you will be able
tropical flowers. Besides yucca, bougainvillea, bamboo, laurel, to enjoy the walkways
geraniums, hibiscus and cypresses, it is home to over 400 and tranquil spaces as
varieties of palm tree and 1,800 species of cactus. Majorelle’s they were intended.
studio has since been converted into a small museum, where
more than 600 items illustrate aspects of traditional Berber
culture. It also boasts a selection of Moroccan crafts such as
antique carpets, Fassi ceramics, Berber doors, and engravings
of Atlas villages and kasbahs by Jacques Majorelle himself.
Situated just next door to the gardens, the modern Musée
Yves Saint Laurent displays some of the French couturier’s
best-known looks. There is also an arts centre and auditorium.
Must See
1 This fountain, surrounded by intricate
mosaic tilework, is one of the many pleasant
spots where visitors can sit and relax.
2 The iconic Art Deco Villa Majorelle, its walls
painted in dazzling blues and bright yellow, is
surrounded by towering cacti, palm trees and
tropical flowers in full bloom.
3 Bordered by papyrus and home to various
species of waterlily, a series of waterways
runs through the garden, irrigating the land
and nourishing the plants.
1
2 3
JACQUES
MAJORELLE
The painter Jacques
Did You Know? Majorelle was born
in Nancy, in north-
The Majorelle name eastern France, in
lives on in an 1886. The son of Louis
electrifying shade of Majorelle, one of the
cobalt blue known as leading figures of the
"Majorelle blue" École de Nancy, he
was raised in the
artistic milieu of Art
Nouveau. After
studying at the École
des Beaux-Arts in
Paris, Majorelle
devoted himself to
painting. He visited
Morocco in 1919 and
fell in love with its
intense light and
decided to settle in
Marrakech. Finding
endless fascination
in the souks, kasbahs
and villages of the
High Atlas, he stayed
in Morocco until his
death in 1962.
The lush Majorelle Garden

is home to a diverse array
of plant life
243
EXPERIENCE MORE
In 1605, the Saadian sultan
6 Abou Faris raised a mausoleum
Zaouia of for the saint in the hope of
DRINK
Sidi bel Abbès curing his epilepsy. Moulay
Ismaïl added a dome in the
 B1 ⌂ Sidi bel Abbès

18th century, and the mauso-
quarter (north of the Café des Épices
leum was altered again by Sidi
medina) ¢ To non-Muslims This multi-floor caffeine
Mohammed ben Abdallah a
From Bab el-Khemis, Rue Sidi few years later. pitstop is the perfect
Rhalem leads to the Zaouia of The zaouia also includes a place to sit back and
Sidi bel Abbès. The sanctuary mosque, a hammam, a home watch the world go by.
is a focal point for the pilgrim- for the blind, a small market, A roof terrace overlooks
age of the Seven Saints of an abattoir and a cemetery. the busy souk below.
Regraga, which was instituted South of the zaouia is the El-  C3 ⌂ 75 Derb
by Moulay Ismaïl to obtain Mjadlia (Passementerie) Souk, Rahba Lakdima
forgiveness for his depreda- built in a covered alley during ∑ cafedesepices.ma
tions in Marrakech. the reign of Sidi Mohammed 
Sidi bel Abbès (1130–1205) ben Abderrahman, at the end
is the city’s most highly vene- of the 19th century. Going
rated patron saint. A disciple from here towards the centre
of the famous Cadi Ayad, he of the medina, you will pass
devoted his life to preaching Bab Taghzout, an Almoravid features in the Regraga
and to caring for and defend- gate that has been integrated pilgrimage. The mausoleum
ing the weak and the blind. into its surroundings. dates from the Saadian
Because of him, it was said period and was remodelled
throughout Morocco that in the late 18th century during
Marrakech was the reign of Sidi Mohammed
the only city 7 ben Abdallah.
where a blind Zaouia of Sidi ben Sidi Mohammed ben
man could Slimane el-Jazouli Slimane el-Jazouli, another
eat his fill. venerated mystic, founded
 B2 ⌂ North of the
Moroccan Sufism in the 15th
medina (near Rue Dar el-
century. Under the Wattasids,
Glaoui) ¢ To non-Muslims
this religion spread to every
After Bab Taghzout, if you level of the population. A
follow Rue de Bab Taghzout, champion of the holy war
then take the first right, and against the Portuguese and
then go right again, you will a politically influential
reach this zaouia, which also figure, this holy man
gained thousands of devoted
followers; his reputed powers
even worried the sultan.
8
Chrob ou Chouf
Fountain
 C2 ⌂ Rue Amesfah, near
the Mosque of Ben Youssef
As its name suggests (the

Andalusian inscription on the
lintel overhead translates as
“Drink and Admire”), this
Saadian fountain is one of the
most beautiful in the medina.
Declared a UNESCO World
Heritage Site in 1985, it was
built during the reign of be given to the thirsty, many Young men working
Ahmed el-Mansour (1578– of Marrakech’s leading citizens under the hot sun in
1603), and is shaded by a financed the construction of the leather tanneries
carved cedar awning with fountains, which performed
coloured zellij tilework and important social functions.
inscriptions in cursive and intensifies on approach. You
Kufic script exquisitely will easily find the alley that
engraved into the wood. leads to the large yards filled
In a town like Marrakech, 9 with soaking and dyeing pits.
located at the head of the pre- The Tanneries Though not as extensive
Saharan valleys, water was as the tanneries of Fès, the
 D2 ⌂ Rue Bab Debagh,
considered a very precious tanneries of Marrakech are
which is the eastern
commodity. A complex under- similarly ancient and have
continuation of Rue
ground network of channels, been on the same site since
du Souk des Fassis
fed from sources in the Middle the city was founded, close to
Atlas mountains, supplied the The tanneries lie immediately the Oued Issil river. As in Fès,
mosques and houses and kept south of Rue Bab Debagh. you can observe the action
the fountains flowing. Obey- They are hidden from view at a distance from one of
ing the precepts of the Koran, of the street, but there is no the terraces overlooking
according to which water must mistaking the smell, which the yards. Owners of leather
shops here sometimes kindly
offer sprigs of mint to hold
under your nose – you can
The courtyard of the accept without any obligation
Zaouia of Sidi bel Abbès, to make a purchase. Avoid the
and the intricately carved persistent self-appointed
woodwork of the main guides who haunt the area, as
entrance (below) a guide is in no way necessary.
Rue Bab Debagh ends at
Bab Debagh (Tanners’ Gate),
one of 19 gates that punctuate
the salmon-pink pisé
ramparts of the medina.
It is the only gate to be
named after a craft,
demonstrating the
historic importance of
the leather trade to the
city. A stairway gives
access to the roof of the
gatehouse. Unfortunately
it is not possible to walk
the tops of the city wall.
245
A chandelier dominating
the inner courtyard of the
Musée de Marrakech
following the decline of the

10 " - Saadian dynasty. It was then 11 "
Jardin Secret rebuilt in the mid-19th Musée de Marrakech
century by the kaid (local
 C3 ⌂ 121 Rue Moussaine  C2 ⌂ Place ben Youssef
chief) Al-Hajj Abd-Allah U-Bihi,
# 9:30am–7:30pm daily § (0524) 44 18 93 # 9am–
who insisted the layout should
(Feb, Mar & Oct: to 6:30pm; 6:30pm daily
reflect that of the original
Nov–Jan: to 6pm) ∑ lejardin
Saadian era complex. Over This museum is laid out in the
secretmarrakech.com
the years, the palace changed Dar Menebhi, a palace built at
Offering welcome respite hands many times, with the end of the 19th century by
from the chaotic clammer ownership passing from chiefs the grand vizier of Sultan
of the busy souks, this to sultans to judges and even, Moulay Mehdi Hassan. The
private garden was once at one point, to the head of building is in the style of a
part of an elegant palace the watchmakers' guild in traditional Moorish house.
complex that dates back Marrakech, before it once The decorated door –
almost 400 years. The original again fell into a state of severe which, as in many Moorish
palace was destroyed at the disrepair. It wasn't until 2008 houses, is the only opening
end of the 17th century that a second restoration of in the otherwise featureless
the site was proposed. external walls – leads through
Today, visitors can stroll to an open courtyard with
GREAT VIEW through the palatial grounds, zellij tilework and three
La Terrasse which boast fine examples of marble basins in the centre.
For an extra 20–30Dh, Islamic art and architecture The courtyard gives access to
visitors can climb to the alongside exotic and the rooms on the ground and
top of the Jardin Secret's traditional Islamic gardens upper floors.
tower for a pleasant with numerous species of The museum’s collection is
glipmse out accross the plantlife, browse the high-end displayed in two wings. One
medina. The same view gift shop and enjoy a light contains contemporary art,
can be enjoyed for free refreshment in the delightful Orientalist paintings and a
from the sun terrace, Café Sahrij. A pretty pavillion series of original engravings
where you can enjoy is home to a permanent of Moroccan subjects.
a refreshing mint tea, display on the fascinating The second wing contains
take photos and watch history of the garden. It also a rather haphazard display of
the world go by. hosts visiting photography objects: coins from the Idrissid
and art exhibitions. period of the 9th century to
246
THE RAMPARTS OF MARRAKECH
Skirting the Guéliz and Hivernage quarters on their
eastern side, the ramparts completely encircle the
medina. From the time of its foundation, Marrakech was
defended by sturdy walls set with forts. Although their
outline has hardly altered from the time of the Almoravids,
they were extended to the south by the Almohads and
to the north by the Saadians in the 16th century. Some
of the monumental gates that pierce them are very fine
examples of Moorish architecture. The best time to walk
around the ramparts is in the early morning or just before
sunset. Their warm ochre colour changes according to
the time of day and the intensity of the light. In the
evening, they take on an almost rust-coloured hue.
contemporary arts centre for example, have changed

that hosts regular changing over the course of the last
and usually quite fascinating century. In addition to the
themed exhibitions. It also has historic photographs, the
a varied programme of live museum also presents
concerts, storytelling sessions, temporary exhibitions
song and dance, literary read- dedicated to contemporary
ings and theatre, as well as an Moroccan photo art. On the
attractive tearoom. upper floor, you can watch a
The name, Dar Bellarj, colour documentary film from
means “Stork’s House”, so 1957, shot in Morocco, while
called because it was formerly another room has a small
a hospital for the ubiquitous exhibition documenting the
long-legged birds. Muslims in renovation of the riad itself.
Did You Know? Morocco consider the stork There is a ground-floor shop
The many holes in the
sacred, and in old Berber selling postcards and limited-
city ramparts are there
legends they were thought to edition prints and a delightful
to support scaffolding
be humans that had been café on the rooftop terrace.
during restoration
transformed into birds.
work.
13 "
that of the Alaouites in the Maison de la
present day; illuminated Photographie
copies of the Koran, including
 C2 ⌂ Rue du Souk des
a 12th-century example from
Fassi, Medina # 9:30am–
China and a 19th-century
7pm daily ∑ maisondela
book of Sufi prayers; southern
photographie.ma
Moroccan jewellery; Tibetan
dress; 17th- and 18th-century A renovated riad close to the
ceramics; and some fine Ben Youssef Medersa is the
decorated Berber doors. setting for this centre dedica-
ted to the documentation of
Morocco in photography. A
museum of sorts, it holds an
12 archive of more than 8,000
Dar Bellarj original images and documents
(photographs, glass plates,
 C2 ⌂ 7–9 Toualat
postcards, newspapers and
Zaouiat Lahdar, Medina
maps) dating from between
# 9:30am–5:30pm Mon–Sat
1870 and 1950, a selection of
∑ darbellarj.com
which is on permanent
Just north of the main display. What becomes clear The upper and lower
entrance to the Ben Youssef from perusing the images is floors inside the Maison
Medersa, this is a lively how little parts of Marrakech, de la Photographie
247
and muqarnas (stalactites). It Mouassine is an
14 also features a fine Andalusian
Bab Doukkala Mosque garden planted with fruit trees. ancient quarter of
the medina that has
 B2 ⌂ Rue de Bab
Doukkala ¢ To non- become one of the
Muslims 15 most fashionable
This place of worship was built Mouassine Quarter parts of Marrakech,
in the mid-16th century by the boasting some of the
 C3
mother of the Saadian ruler most high-end riads
Ahmed el-Mansour. Its slender North of Jemaa El Fna and west
and stylish boutiques.
minaret, crowned by four of the main souks, Mouassine
golden orbs, and its refined is an ancient quarter of the
decoration are reminiscent of medina that has become one
the Kasbah Mosque. Next to of the most fashionable parts arched gate leads through to
the building stands an ornate of Marrakech, boasting some the breathtaking Souk des
fountain featuring a bowl of the most high-end riads Teinturiers, or Dyers’ Souk
surmounted by three domes. and stylish boutiques. At its (p239). Here, skeins of wool
From here, Rue de Bab heart is the Mouassine Mosque. in all manner of rainbow
Doukkala, going towards the The Saadian sultan Moulay hues hang out to dry in the
centre of the medina, leads to Abdallah established this beating sun. In a city bursting
Dar el-Glaoui, the palace built place of worship, which was with colour, this is surely the
by Thami El-Glaoui – the famous built between 1562 and 1573, jewel in the Marrakech’s
pasha of Marrakech and one on what is thought to be a colourful crown.
of the richest and most power- former Jewish quarter, having Between the mosque and
ful men in Morocco – in the relocated the Jewish popula- the fountain is an old house,
early 20th century. One part tion to the new mellah. The dating from the 17th and 18th
of the building contains a minaret, which is crowned by centuries, that now serves as
library, while another is used to a gallery with merlons, is of the Musée Mouassine. The
receive heads of state during strikingly simple design. The museum’s exhibits document
official visits. The palace is adjacent Mouassine Fountain, the history of the neighbour-
reputed to have been the the largest and most ornate in hood, although the greatest
venue for some wild and the medina, consists of three attraction is the house itself,
extravagant parties. large drinking troughs, two which is a fine example of
The palace has several for animals and the third for 16th-century Saadian
beautifully decorated court- people. The fountain is enclosed architecture, expertly restored
yards lined with zellij tilework within a portico with decorative to its former glory. A short
typical of the Moorish style, stuccowork and carved lintels. film shows the key stages in
stuccowork, painted wood Just east of the fountain, an the renovation process.
At the heart of the souks,
the main street through the
quarter is Rue Mouassine. A
small west-leading alley off
this street jogs and twists to
248
The tower of Koubba
Ba-Adiyn and the
EAT
interior stonework of Bakchich Café
the dome (inset) Lively, candy-coloured
pit stop in the heart of
the souk, serving tasty,
well-priced local cuisine.
16 "
 C3 ⌂ Rue des
deliver visitors to the large Koubba Ba’Adiyn Banques, Kennaria,
wooden door of Dar Cherifa, Medina § (0661) 48
 C2 ⌂ Place ben Youssef
one of the most beautiful 86 92
§ (0524) 43 61 31/43 62 39
buildings in the medina. It is
# 9am–6pm daily 
a stunning 15th-century riad
that has been meticulously This brick-built dome is the
restored and returned to life only example of Almoravid Al Fassia
as a gallery, workshop and architecture in Marrakech, Simply the best
performance space. You can making it most likely the Moroccan food in town
order a mint tea here, which oldest building in the city. at a restaurant run
you can enjoy in the glorious Built by Ali ben Youssef in entirely by women.
galleried courtyard. 1106, originally it formed part  A5 ⌂ 55 Boulevard
North of the mosque, at of a richly decorated mosque Mohamed Zerktouni,
192 Rue Mouassine, is a large that was demolished by the Guéliz ∑ alfassia.com
fondouk (travellers’ hostel) Almohad dynasty upon over- 
that was used in the film throwing the Almoravids
Hideous Kinky (1998) as the around 50 years later. Miracu-
Nomad
hotel at which Kate Winslett’s lously spared, the rectangular
A sleek, modern
character stays. At No 184, pavilion was rediscovered in
Moroccan eatery and
Souk Cherifa is the best 1948. It was found to contain rooftop cocktail bar
shopping stop for designer an ablutions pool fed by three featuring eclectic
clothes, accessories and reservoirs. While the exterior twists on local classics.
homeware, with over 20 is decorated with chevrons
 C3 ⌂ 1 Derb Arjaane,
independent boutiques and pointed arches in relief,
off Rahba Kedima,
gathered together. the interior is graced by scal-
Medina ∑ nomad
loped and horseshoe arches marrakech.com
and floral ornamentation. The
koubba indicates how the city 
Tourists sheltering from the might have looked, as well as
sun in a roof top café in the anticipating the creativity of
Mouassine Quarter Islamic architecture to come.
249
Orange trees filling the

Moorish-style inner court-
yard of the Palais Bahia
has an Andalusian garden,

17 " with a central pavilion and RIADS
Dar Si Saïd Museum fountain. While worth a visit in A riad is a traditional
its own right, particularly for Moroccan townhouse
 C3 ⌂ Riad Zitoune
the painted wooden ceilings, built around a central
Jedid § (0524) 38 95 64
the house also serves as a courtyard. Over the
# 9–11:45am & 2:30–
museum of decorative arts. last 20 years, however,
5:45pm Wed–Mon
The exhibits include a fine in medinas throughout
Commissioned by the brother collection of carpets, chests, Morocco, the term has
of Ba Ahmed, builder of the weapons, ceramics, costumes become synonymous
nearby Palais Bahia, the 19th- and jewellery illustrating the with boutique hotels.
century Dar Si Saïd is a house skill of the craftsmen and These can be quite
rather than a palace. It is women of southern Morocco, humble, with just three
splendid nonetheless, with a particularly of the High Atlas. or four simple rooms
two-storey central building The sumptuous Reception and few amenities.
arranged around courtyards Room on the upper floor is a They can also be rather
with graceful arcades. It also jewel of Moorish design. The palatial affairs with 20
cedar dome and the walls, or more sumptuous
with zellij tilework and a stucco- bedchambers, plus
work frieze, are a mesmerizing pools, a hammam,
sight. The room contains a library and restaurant.
wooden candelabrum, a cedar Whichever end of the
sofa and benches covered scale, they all offer a
with colourful fabric. personal and very
Some of the most interest- Moroccan experience.
ing items are in the collection
of woodwork in the second
courtyard, including doors,
frontages and intricate 18 "
mashrabiyya (screenwork), Palais Bahia
some of it painted in bright
 D4 ⌂ Riad Zitoun Jedid
colours. These architectural
(medina) § (0524) 38 91 79
elements, most of them carved
# 9am–4:30pm daily
in cedar, originate from old
houses in Marrakech. Also This palace, whose name
on display are archaeological literally means “Palace of the
pieces and architectural frag- Favourite” or “Palace of the
ments from Fès. Beautiful”, was built by two
The cedar dome of the From the topmost floor powerful grand viziers – Si
Reception Room in there is a view over the medina Moussa, vizier of Sultan Sidi
the Da Si Saïd Museum and towards the High Atlas. Mohammed ben Abderrahman,
250
and his son Ba Ahmed, vizier Ba Ahmed hired the best
of Moulay Abdelaziz – at the craftsmen in the kingdom to
end of the 19th century. build and decorate this palace.
STAY
The complex consists of two It is decked out with highly
parts, each built at different prized materials, such as
times. The older part, built by marble from Meknès, cedar
Si Moussa, contains apart from the Middle Atlas and tiles Dar Attajmil
ments arranged around a from Tetouan. Not surprisingly, The cosiest of four-room
marblepaved courtyard. It French Army general Marshal riads, with a central
also has an open courtyard Lyautey chose to live here courtyard shaded by a
with cypresses, orange trees during the Protectorate. banana tree.
and jasmine, with two star Maison Tiskiwin, at 8 Rue de  B3 ⌂ 23 Rue Laksour
shaped pools. la Bahia, houses the Bert Flint ∑ darattajmil.com
The newer part, built by Ba Museum. This charming resi

Ahmed, is a huge palace with dence with a courtyard is an
out a unified plan. It consists example of a traditional 19th
of luxurious apartments look century Marrakech house. Here, Riad Berbere
ing on to courtyards planted Bert Flint, a Dutch anthro A fabulous renovated
with trees. To make it easier pologist and art historian who 17th-century property.
for the obese master of the fell in love with Morocco and  C3 ⌂ 23 Derb Sidi
house to move around, most settled here in the 1950s, Ahmed Benacer
of the apartments were located amassed a huge collection ∑ leriadberbere.com
on the ground floor. The main of folk art and artifacts from 
courtyard is paved with marble around the Souss Valley and
and zellij tilework. It is surroun the Saharan region. He
ded by a gallery of finely fluted eventually donated the house La Mamounia Hotel
The grande dame of
columns, while three fountains and most of his collection to
Marrakech hotels –
with bowls stand in the centre. the university. Exhibits include
nothing compares to
This courtyard, once used by pottery from the Rif, jewellery
the hospitality and
the viziers’ concubines, faces and daggers from the Anti
opulence of La
the main reception room. It Atlas, and carpets from the
Mamounia with its
has a cedar ceiling painted Middle Atlas. The museum
splendid Art Deco and
with arabesques. The decora is not too far from the Dar Si Moorish decor.
tion of the palace apartments Saïd, built by the brother of
and of the council chamber is  B4 ⌂ Avenue Bab
Ba Ahmed.
Jdid, Medina
equally splendid.
∑ mamounia.com
Bert Flint Museum
" ⌂ 8 Rue de la Bahia, Riad 
Doormen welcoming Zitoun Jedid § (0524) 38 91
guests to the lobby at 92 # 9am–12:30pm & 2:30–
La Mamounia Hotel 6pm daily
251
and banish the memory of

19
Mellah
 D4 ⌂ East of Palais
earlier dynasties. Having
emerged victorious over
the Portuguese at the Battle
99
of the Three Kings in 1578, The number of names
el-Badi and south of
El-Mansour, “the Golden”, there are for Allah.
Palais Bahia
ordered a luxurious palace El-Badi, meaning “the
Once accommodating some to be built near his private incomparable” is just
16,000 inhabitants, the former apartments. It was to be used one of them.
Jewish quarter of Marrakech for receptions and audiences
was the largest mellah in with foreign embassies. It was
Morocco until the country’s financed by the Portuguese,
independence. Previously whom he had defeated in 21
located on what became the battle, and work continued Bab Agnaou
site of the Mouassine Mosque, until his death in 1603.
 B4 ⌂ Rue de la
the mellah was established in For a time, the palace was
Kasbah, opposite
the mid-16th century by sultan considered one of the wonders
the Kasbah Mosque
Moulay Abdallah, and it was of the Muslim world. Italian
almost identical to the one in marble, Irish granite, Indian Like its twin, Bab Oudaïa in
Fès (p182). Until 1936, it was onyx and coverings of gold Rabat (p82), this monumental
surrounded by a wall pierced leaf decorated the walls and gate was built by Yacoub el-
by two gates, one opening the ceilings of the 360 rooms. Mansour. Its name is Berber
east on to the cemetery,the In 1683, Moulay Ismaïl for “hornless black ram”.
other leading into the city. The demolished the Palais el-Badi Protected by Bab el-Robb,
jewellers’ souk is held oppo- and salvaged the materials to the outer defensive gate, Bab
site the Palais Bahia (p250). embellish his own imperial Agnaou marked the main
city of Meknès. Today, what entrance to the Almohad
remains of the palace are the palace, and its function was
empty shells of the pavillions thus primarily decorative.
20 " and stables, the original Although the gate no longer
Palais el-Badi cedarwood minbar of the has its two towers, the façade
Koutoubia Mosque (p234) and still makes for an impressive
 C4 ⌂ Hay Salam, Rue
the tremendous central court, sight. In the carved sandstone
Berrima # 9am–4:45pm
made up of several pools and tinges of red meld with tones
daily
sunken gardens planted with of greyish-blue.
Five months after acceding to orange and citrus trees. You The neatly sculpted façade
the throne, Ahmed el-Mansour can climb up on to the consists of alternating layers
decided to consolidate his rule ramparts for a better view. of stone and brick surrounding
252
TOP
MEDINA SPAS
5 AND HAMMAMS
Les Bains de
Marrakech
⌂ 2 Derb Sedra, Bab
Agnaou # Daily
Affordable his ’n’ hers
with joint hammams.
Hammam Dar El Bacha

⌂ 20 Rue Fatima Zohra
# Men only: 7am–1pm;
women only: 1–9pm
Old-school hammam
with fine old buildings.
Hammam de la Rose
⌂ 130 Dar El Bacha
∑ hammamdelarose.com
The sizeable central court of the
Good mid-range option
incomparable Palais el-Badi, with
for affordable luxury.
pools and sunken orange gardens
Heritage Spa
⌂ 40 Arset Aouzal, Bab
a horseshoe arch. The floral Built by Yacoub el-Mansour Doukkala ∑ heritagespa
motifs in the cornerpieces (1184–99), the mosque is the marrakech.com
and the frieze with Kufic only Almohad building other Modern spa with a wide
script framing the arch are than Bab Agnaou to survive in variety of treatments.
unusually delicate. Marrakech. Its distinctive
This is another example of minaret, a beautiful stone and Spa MK
the sober, monochrome style brick construction in shades ⌂ 14 Derb Sebaai
of decoration that is typical of ochre, was used as a model ∑ maisonmk.com
of Almohad architecture and by later builders. Two-fifths of One of the very top spa
that gives the gate a dignified the tower are taken up by the experiences in the city.
and majestic appearance. lantern, which is crowned by
three spheres. These are brass,
but legend has it that they are
gold, hence their popular from Marrakech and the
22 name, the Golden Apples. In region. Prices are fixed, so you
The Kasbah the lee of the southern wall don’t have to haggle. Further
are the Saadian Tombs. south is the excellent Café
 C4 ⌂ Rue de la Kasbah,
South of the mosque, along Clock, a funky
near Bab Agnaou; Kasbah
main Rue de la Kasbah is the little café with
Mosque: ¢ To non-Muslims
Centre Artisanal, a huge good food
The southernmost portion of store which sells and enter-
the medina is notably quieter handicrafts tainment.
than elsewhere. It is home to
three cemeteries and the
stately precincts of the royal
residence – off-limits to the
public. The quarter is entered
via Bab Agnaou, which leads
directly to the Kasbah
Mosque, also known as the
Mosque of Moulay el-Yazid,
after the Alaouite sultan.
The Kasbah Mosque with its

distinctive minaret, viewed
from Rue de la Kasbah
253
The Atlas Mountains seen from the rooftops of the Palais el-Badi
Ahmed el-Mansour and his
successors lying in eternal
rest in the Saadian Tombs
The central Chamber of 12

Columns, a great masterpiece
of Moorish architecture, is
crowned by a remarkable
dome of carved cedar with
goldleaf decoration. It is
supported by 12 columns of
Carrara marble. The walls are
completely covered – the lower
part by a graceful interlacing
pattern of glazed tiles, and
the upper part by a profusion
of stuccowork. In the centre
of the room lie Ahmed el
Mansour and many of his
successors. The ivorycoloured
marble tombstones are
covered with arabesques and
inscriptions arranged on two
levels: above are verses from
the Koran, below is a framed
epitaph in verse. The third
room, the Chamber of Three
Niches, has an equally
sumptuous decorative scheme.
It contains the tombs of several
young princes.
The second mausoleum has
more modest proportions. It
respect for the dead, and even consists of a room with two
23 " though he had been at pains loggias and a prayer hall. A
Saadian Tombs to erase all traces of his carved cedar lintel links the
predecessors, the Alaouite columns of the loggias. In the
 C4 ⌂ Rue de la Kasbah
sultan Moulay Ismaïl raised a prayer hall, the dome is a
§ (0524) 43 61 31 # 9am–
wall round the main entrance. splendid sight. Filling a honey
5pm daily
It was not until 1917 that combed niche in the burial
Although they were neglected the tombs were made acces chamber is the tomb of Lalla
for more than two centuries, sible to the public. They consist Messaouda, mother of Ahmed
the tombs of the Saadian of two mausoleums set in a “the Golden”.
dynasty constitute some of garden planted with flowers
the finest examples of Islamic symbolizing Allah’s paradise.
architecture in Morocco. Their The central mausoleum is
style is in complete contrast that of Ahmed elMansour 24
to the simplicity of Almohad (1578–1603). It consists of Dar el-Makhzen
architecture, as the Saadian three funerary rooms. The
 C5 ⌂ Southeast of
princes lavished on funerary first room is a prayer hall
the Saadian Tombs
architecture the same osten divided into three aisles by
¢ To the public
tation and magnificence that white marble columns. The
they gave to other buildings. mihrab (which points to Mecca) When Sidi Mohammed ben
A necropolis existed here is decorated with stalactites Abdallah arrived in Marrakech
during the Almohad period and framed by a pointed in the 18th century, he found
(1145–1248), continuing in use horseshoe arch supported
during the reign of the Merinid by grey marble pilasters.
sultan Abou elHassan (1331– The prayer hall is lit by the
51). The Saadian Tombs them three windows of the lantern, People going about
selves date from the late 16th which rests on a cedar base their daily business in the
to the 18th centuries. Out of decorated with inscriptions. upmarket area of Guéliz
256
the Almohad and Saadian The central Chamber of 12 Columns, a
palaces in ruins. He ordered
this royal palace to be built in
great masterpiece of Moorish architec
an extensive walled area in the ture, is crowned by a remarkable dome
kasbah, next to Palais el-Badi. of carved cedar with goldleaf decoration.
The building is notable
because, unlike the other
palaces in Marrakech, it took to the palace by Bab el- gardens, and cafés with shady
into account the perspective Akhdar and is linked to the terraces make Guéliz a lovely
and dimensions of the terrain. Aguedal Gardens. The outer quarter to visit. Avenue
Restored countless times, Dar méchouar, east of the palace, Mohammed V, which runs
el-Makhzen consists of several is connected to the Berrima between Guéliz and the
groups of buildings: the Green quarter by Bab el-Harri. The medina, is lined with offices,
Palace (El-Qasr el-Akhdar), the large méchouar south of banks, restaurants, bars,
Nile Garden (Gharsat el-Nil) and the inner méchouar is outlined pavement cafés and shops.
the main house (El-Dar el- by a wall set with merlons. Despite the number of
Kubra), as well as outbuildings modern buildings, a few
and several pavilions (menzah) vestiges of the European
in the park. The palace is still a architecture introduced by
royal residence today. 26 the French remain. A notable
Guéliz example of this style, known
as “Mauresque”, is the
 A5 ⌂ Northwest
Renaissance Café, on Place
25 of the medina
Abdel Moumen ben Ali. It is
Méchouars Established during the decorated in typical 1950s'
Protectorate and taking its style and has a dining area on
 D5 ⌂ Near Dar
name from the hill that rises the top floor with panoramic
el-Makhzen
above it, Guéliz is the Ville views. A large municipal fresh
Dar el-Makhzen has three large Nouvelle (New Town) of produce market takes place
parade grounds, known as Marrakech. This spacious every day in Place du 16
méchouars, where royal cere- commercial district has been Novembre. It is worth visiting
monies and other public gath- put together in line with the the market to take in the lively
erings are held. The inner principles of modern town atmosphere, as local shoppers
méchouar, located south of the planning. The wide avenues, purchase their fresh fruit,
Dar el-Makhzen, is connected large hotels, municipal vegetables, herbs and spices.
27 " ' - =
Musée d’Art et de
Culture de Marrakech
(MACMA)
 A5 ⌂ Passage Ghandouri,
61 Rue Yougoslavie, Guéliz
# 9am–7pm Mon–Sat
∑ museemacma.com
Opened in 2016, this is a

smart art museum displaying
the collection of its owner, the
enthusiastic and hands-on
Nabil El Mallouki. His passion
is the work of the Orientalists.
From the mid-19th to the mid-
20th century, many European
painters were attracted by
the colour and, to their eyes,
exoticism, of Morocco and its
people and the beauty of
its landscapes.
Hung in cool white and channels known as khettaras.
slate grey galleries are 80 or 28 Tours can be taken by car or
so works including pieces by La Palmeraie horse-drawn carriage.
Jacques Majorelle, Eugène Although it contains roughly
 A4 ⌂ On the road to
Delacroix and Raoul Dufy. 150,000 trees, the agricultural
Casablanca, 22 km (14
In addition to the main function of the grove is being
miles) north of Marrakech
collection, the museum hosts pared away by developers,
regular temporary exhibitions Legend has it that, after who are making inroads into
featuring many Moroccan eating dates brought back it by building desirable
artists. It is a relatively small from the Sahara, the soldiers residences here.
place, hidden in a shopping of the 11th-century Almoravids
passage, but well worth spat out the stones around
seeking out for anyone with their encampment. The stones
an interest in art. There is an are supposed to have germi- 29
attractive art bookshop and nated and led to the creation Agdal Gardens
a literary café on site too. of La Palmeraie (Palm Grove).
 D5 ⌂ Rue Bab Ahmar,
The owner opened a sister Covering an area the size of
via the outer méchouar
museum to MACMA – the a small city, the grove consists
near Bab Ighli # Daily
Orientalist Museum of of fields, gardens and orchards
Marrakech – on Kaat Benehid irrigated by ditches and wells This vast enclosed space
in the city’s medina. supplied by underground contains an orchard planted
with lemon, orange, apricot
and olive trees. The historic
gardens were laid out in the
late 12th century by the
Almoravids, who also installed
two large irrigation pools
connected by khettaras.
Enlarged and embellished
by the Almohads, and later
the Saadians, the gardens were
then completely neglected
until the 19th century. At that
point, the Alaouite sultans
Camels padding
through the palm trees
at La Palmeraie
258
The imperial gardens of
Ménara, backdropped by the
snowy peaks of the High Atlas
Moulay Abderrahman and Sidi

Mohammed ben Abdallah 30 " TOP
MARRAKECH
restored the gardens and the Ménara 5 BARS & CLUBS
pavilions, building gates into
 A5 ⌂ Avenue de la
the surrounding wall and even Café Arabe
Ménara # 9am–5pm daily
diverting the course of Wadi ⌂ 184 Rue Mouassine,
Ourika to provide irrigation to A welcome haven of shade Medina ∑ cafearabe.com
the surrounding area. and coolness, this imperial Casual bar with a laid
While the public has free garden enclosed within pisé back vibe. Drink until
access to the gardens, the walls is filled mostly with olive late on the terraces.
pavilions, on the northern and fruit trees. In the 12th
side, are for the exclusive use century, an enormous pool Le Comptoir
of the king’s guests. Dar el- was dug in the centre of the ⌂ Ave Echouhada, Hivernage
Hana, the largest pool, is garden to serve as a reservoir ∑ comptoirdarna.com
located south of the garden for the Almohad sultans. In A raucous club, complete
and dates from the Almohad the 19th century, Moulay with belly dancers.
period. The terrace of the Abderrahman refurbished
small Saadian pavilion that the garden and built the Grand Café de la Poste
⌂ Angle Blvd Mansour
stands next to it commands pavilion with a green-tiled
Eddahbi, Guéliz
stunning views in two oppo- pyramidal roof. The ground
Quirky little Café in a
site directions: northwards floor is fronted by three
former colonial post
across expansive olive groves, arches opening onto the pool.
office that transforms
with the city in the back- The upper floor has a large
into a club at night.
ground rising in tiers to the balustered balcony on its
hill of Jbilet, and southwards north side. Sky Bab
to the serene and distant This stunning building was ⌂ 130 Angle Blvd
snowcapped peaks of the used by the sultans for their Mansour Eddahbi, Guéliz
High Atlas. romantic meetings. It is said ∑ babhotelmarrakech.ma
that every morning they Spacious rooftop bar at
would toss the concubine that the luxurious Bab Hotel.
they had chosen the night
Did You Know? before into the water.
Although the interior is
SkyBar
⌂ 89 Angle Blvd
The Agdal Gardens’ rather plain, the building’s Zerktouni, Gueliz
name derives from the overall conception and loca- Perched atop the Hotel
Berber language and tion are remarkable, and the de la Renaissance, this
translates as “Walled view from any point within, sleek rooftop bar is one
Meadow”. with the peaks of the High of the finest in town.
Atlas serving as a backdrop,
is quite unforgettable.
259
The 12th-century mosque of Tin Mal
HIGH ATLAS
Extending from the plains of the Atlantic seaboard
to Morocco’s border with Algeria, the High Atlas
forms an impregnable barrier some 800 km
(500 miles) long and, in certain places, 100 km
(60 miles) wide. Consisting of great massifs and
steep valleys, desolate rocky plains and deep
narrow canyons, the High Atlas has played a
decisive role in Morocco’s history.
From ancient times these mountains have been
a place of refuge for populations fleeing from
invaders. For centuries, nomads forced northwards
by the desertification of the Sahara have come
into conflict with the sedentary mountain-dwelling
tribes, disputing possession of prized pasture. This
tumultuous feudal past led to the development of
a strikingly beautiful form of fortified architecture.
Today, although the Berbers no longer need to
guard their safety, they still live in tighremts, old
patriarchal houses with thick walls. Hamlets built
of pisé (rammed earth) still cling to mountainsides,
while every last plot of land is used to grow barley,
corn, maize, turnips, lucerne (alfalfa) and potatoes –
crops that can be cultivated at high altitudes. The
Berbers channel river water to irrigate small squares
of land and graze their flocks of sheep and goats.
261
Kasbah Kasbah
Boulaouane
Boulaouane Guisser Guisser
Machraà Machraà
Ben Abbou
Ben Abbou
HIGH ATLAS
HIGH ATLAS
El BoroujEl Borouj
Al Massira Al Massira
Reservoir Reservoir
Ben Guerir
Ben Guerir
TassaoutTassaout
Chemaia Chemaia
El Kelaa des
El Kelaa
Sraghna
des Sraghna Ou
Sidi Bou Sidi Bou Attaouïa Attaouïa

SOUTHERN
SOUTHERN OthmaneOthmane Ech Cheibiya
Ech Cheibiya
ATLANTIC
ATLANTIC
COASTCOAST
p122 p122 Zaouia- Zaouia-
Taglaout Taglaout
Ach
DemnateDemnate
Marrakech
Marrakech Dar el-Betma
Dar el-Betma
Sidi-Rahhal
Sidi-Rahhal
Menara Menara
Airport Airport Aït Ourir Aït Ourir Jbel T
Chichaoua
Chichaoua h h 3,8
i g i g
Wa d i O u r i k a
Wa d i O u r i k a
AmanouzAmanouz (12,
Ourika Ourika
OumnastOumnast H H
OURIKAOURIKA M
Tahanaoute
Tahanaoute
VALLEYVALLEYTaddert Taddert
ArhbalouArhbalou TELOUET
TELOUET
Tou
ASNI ASNI
Setti Fatma TIZI-N-TICHKA
Setti Fatma TIZI-N-TICHKA
Amizmiz Amizmiz
OuirganeOuirgane OUKAÏMEDEN PASS PASS
OUKAÏMEDEN
Imintanoute
Imintanoute Issaldaïn Issaldaïn
IMLIL IMLIL
Essaouira Essaouira
Amerzgane Mogador Mogador
Amerzgane
Airport Airport
TIN MAL Ijoukak Ijoukak
TIN MAL
Âït-Bou-Ktir
Âït-Bou-Ktir
Ouarzazate
Ouarzazate
TIZI-N-TEST
TIZI-N-TEST
PASS PASS
SOUTHERN
SOUTHERN
MOROCCO
MOROCCO
AND WESTERN
AND WESTERN
SAHARA
SAHARA
p298 p298
Oulad Berhil
Oulad Berhil
AoulouzaAoulouza
Tazenakht
Tazenakht
TaliouineTaliouine
Taroudannt
Taroudannt
Irherm Irherm
Foum Zguid
Foum Zguid
Tisenasamine
Tisenasamine
Amzrou Amzrou Tissint Tissint
Tata Tata
0 kilometres
0 kilometres
30 30 N N
Oualegh Oualegh
Boujad Boujad
Boumia Boumia
Kasbah Kasbah MIDELTMIDELT
Tadla Tadla
Aghbala Aghbala
Fquih Fquih Tounfit Tounfit
Ben SalahBen Salah
HIGH HIGH
ATLASATLAS Tillicht Tillicht
p260 p260
Lac de Iseli Lac de Iseli
Bin El-Ouidane
Bin El-Ouidane
Reservoir Reservoir IMILCHIL
IMILCHIL
uzoud Ouzoud s
Tilougguite
Tilougguite s
a a
Azilal Azilal l l
tt
A Zaouïa-
Âït-Mhamed
Âït-Mhamed A Zaouïa-
AhanesalAhanesal
AÏT AÏT
BOUGUEMEZ
BOUGUEMEZ
Jbel AzourkiJbel Azourki OUARZAZATE
OUARZAZATE
AND AND
VALLEY VALLEY
3,677 m 3,677 m THE SOUTHERN
THE SOUTHERN
OASESOASES
Achaouïkh
haouïkh (12,063 ft) (12,063 ft)
p276 p276 Goulmima
Goulmima
Zaouïa- Zaouïa-
Tabant Oulemsi
Tabant Oulemsi Âït-Toukhsine
Âït-Toukhsine
Agouti Agouti
Jbel Tignousti
Tignousti Tinghir Tinghir
825 m 3,825 m
,549 ft) (12,549 ft) Âït-Oudinar
Âït-Oudinar
MEGDAZ
MEGDAZ Bou-Thrarar
Bou-Thrarar
BoumalneBoumalne
du Dadèsdu Dadès
Toundoute
undoute
ro r oIkniounn Ikniounn
rh arh
Sa
Alnif Alnif
S
Skoura Skoura
el el
Jb Jb
Nekob Nekob
HIGH ATLAS
Must See
1 Aït Bouguemez Valley
Experience More
2 Oukaïmeden
3 Asni
4 Tin Mal
5 Tizi-n-Test Pass
6 Ourika Valley
7 Imlil
8 Midelt
9 Tizi-n-Tichka Pass
0 Telouet
q Megdaz
w Imilchil
EXPERIENCE High Atlas
1' 1
AÏT
Agouti
⌂ Western extremity of
the Aït Bouguemez valley
BOUGUEMEZ The first of the villages that

line the valley, Agouti is located
VALLEY
at 1,800 m (5,908 ft). As an
outpost of the Aït Bouguemez
tribe, it once defended access
to the high valley against
! C4–D3 ⌂ Agouti; road N8 from Marrakech, then road rival tribes. A ruined igherm
R208 to Azilal, continuing south and, before Aït Mhamed, (fortified communal granary),
turning right then left to Agouti set on a sheer rocky pro
montory, towers above the
The wide, flat Aït Bouguemez valley is flanked by a village. The villagers once kept
landscape of high, arid hilltops. This is the domain their possessions and their
of the Aït Bouguemez tribe, who are settled farmers. crops here. In the valley, many
The tribe is thought to be the oldest in the region. The houses have electricity, as well
valley is covered in meticulously tilled plots of land as some form of running water.
surrounded by ditches, and walnut trees grow in As elsewhere in the valley,
the cubelike houses blend
undulating fields of barley and corn. The valley is the
into their setting as they are
starting point for hikes through spectacular scenery almost the same colour as the
up to the massif of Jbel M’Goun. Guides and mules can landscape. They are stacked
be hired in Tabant and other villages. together like building blocks,
the flat roof of the house
Travelling through the Aït carved wooden handicrafts, serving as a terrace for the
Bouguemez valley’s villages such as boxwood bowls, as inhabitants of the house
can offer a fascinating insight well as colourful rugs and above. Visitors can see some
into the daily lives of the local carpets. Visitors can watch beautiful wood ceilings in the
people and are home to many the artisans at work and houses of wealthier families.
associations and cooperatives pick up authentic souvenirs. The painted decoration is
of artisans. The array of wares The associations and co executed by renowned
produced in the valley range operatives use the proceeds craftsmen and features an
from jewellery and traditional from sales to help support infinite variety of intricate
woven baskets to beautifully their local communities. geometric patterns.
264
Must See
The Aït Bouguemez

valley with hamlets
surrounded by fields
STAY
Touda Eco-Lodge
2' This rustic, homely
Aït Bou Berber-owned lodge on
Oulli Valley a hilltop has eight rooms
overlooking the Aït
⌂ West of Agouti Bouguemez valley. It is
From Agouti, a day trip can the perfect trekking
be made to the gorgeous base, with plenty of
Aït Bou Oulli valley on mule- home-cooked hearty
Berber food at
back or by four-wheel-drive
meal times.
vehicle. A sheersided track
leads down into the valley, ⌂ Zawyat Oulmzi
whose name means “the ∑ touda.co.uk
people who raise ewes”. The 
narrow wooded valley, thickly
covered with walnut trees,
winds the length of the wadi, Ecolodge Dar Itrane
Located in the peaceful
which irrigates small fields
viallge of Imelghas, this
for farming. Jbel Ghat, rising
lodge has 17 rooms and
above the plain, is a peak
is decorated in Berber
with mythical associations
style throughout. There
Did You Know? to which the Berbers come
on a pilgrimage in years of
are stunning views
from its rooftop terrace.
Houses in the valley drought. Abachkou, an
⌂ Imelghas
bottom are built of pisé interesting, high-set village
at the far end of the valley, is ∑ origins-lodge.com
(raw earth), while
those at a high altitude renowned for the beautiful 
are of dry stone. white capes produced by
the villagers and found
nowhere else in Morocco.
Zaouïa Ahansal
30 km (19 miles)
Ifrane Zaouïa
Oulemsi
Aït Wanougdal
im
hk
t
Iskattafène - Ai
Jbel Tizal
t-n
3,041m Assi
(9,977 ) Imelghas Rbat
Timit Tabant
El-Had
Aït Bouguemez Sidi Moussa
Agouti
0 kilometres 3 N
Aït Bou Oulli
Valley 0 miles 3
265
3 From the granary, it is possible to look

Tabant over the rest of the valley, with the
outlines of nearby villages dotting
⌂ East of Agouti
the surrounding hillsides.
Tabant is the valley’s admin-
istrative centre. It is well
known for its souk that takes Moussa, the holy man
place on Sundays, which is the 4 renowned for his good deeds
only place in the valley where Sidi Moussa and his powers as a healer, is
supplies can be purchased. buried here. Women visit the
⌂ East of Agouti
Weekly deliveries arrive by shrine, where they spend the
truck, providing the local Perched on the summit of a night and sacrifice a chicken
inhabitants with necessities, pointed hill, in the centre of in the hope of becoming
such as tea, coffee, sugar, the Aït Bouguemez valley, Sidi pregnant. From the granary, it
matches, oil and utensils, that Moussa granary is a UNESCO’s is possible to look over the rest
they cannot otherwise obtain. World Heritage site. It is of the valley, with the outlines
reached by a steep path of nearby villages dotting the
from the village of Timit. This surrounding hillsides.
INSIDER TIP collective granary, one of three
Getting Around in the region, is a sturdy circular
the Valley building with incorporated
The road is metalled watch towers. In the interior, 5
as far as Tabant. From which is lit by loop-hole win- Zaouïa Oulemsi
there you will need a dows, a spiral staircase leads
⌂ On the way from Agouti,
four-wheel drive to the two upper floors. In the
vehicle to reach Zaouïa
on a narrow track
half-light, compartments along
Ahansal and then Bin the walls can be made out. Zaouïa Oulemsi is the last
el-Ouidane. This was where the inhabitants village in the Aït Bouguemez
kept their possessions. Sidi valley, which it overlooks
266
Must See
33.4 kg
protected holy places, where
pilgrims and the needy found
refuge. In exchange for the
The weight of the protection given by the
largest carp caught in marabout, the Berbers
Lake Bin el-Ouidane maintained the land around
(73.6 lb). the zaouïa, were taught
Arabic and received Koranic
instruction. Heedless of the
power of the sultans, the
6 leaders of some zaouias
Zaouïa Ahansal controlled the lives of the
mountain people, settling
⌂ On the track towards
disputes over land ownership
Bin el-Ouidane
and imposing their will.
A track running along the Zaouïa Ahansal was a major
continuation of the Aït influence on the local Berber
Bouguemez valley goes up populations, but the
to the Tizi-n-Tirrhist Pass, descendants of Saïd Ahansal
at 2,629 m (8,628 ft). The came into conflict with the
mountains are very bare here. fiefs of the caids (chief of a
The track passes a petrified defined territory) of the High
forest of juniper, with gnarled, Atlas. They held out against
dying trunks. Zaouïa Ahansal, the French until 1934
consisting of some old The track continues for
tighremts and the tomb of its 40 km (25 miles) before
Women arriving at the founder, Saïd Ahansal, dates reaching La Cathédrale , an
Sidi Moussa granary, a from the 14th century, when impressive rock formation,
shrine to the marabout the marabout movement followed by Lake Bin el-
loomed large in the history of Ouidane. This lake is a
this mountain region. Zaouias popular place for fishing and
from an altitude of 2,150 m (sanctuaries set up around is known for its huge carps.
(7,056 ft). It consists of low, the tombs of marabouts, holy The water is also home to
red-hued drystone houses. figures and the leaders of black bass, pike, zander,
Here, the snowfall comes brotherhoods) were then roach and tench.
early and tends to be heavy.
The village is the starting
point for hikes to Lake Izourar, BERBERS OF THE HIGH ATLAS
which lies in the heart of the
The Berbers of the High Atlas are non-nomadic peasants.
mountains at an altitude of
Many of them have a completely self-sufficient lifestyle.
2,500 m (8,205 ft). Many
In some valleys mule tracks are the only channel of
nomadic shepherds camp communication with the outside world. The inhabitants
beside the lake, which is often of these remote valleys live by the pattern of the seasons.
dry in the summer months, In the autumn, they till the soil. In winter, they gather
when it turns into pasture, wood and weave woollen blankets. In spring, men dig and
the use of which is carefully maintain irrigation channels. In summer, they harvest
controlled to prevent over- and thresh the grain.
grazing. The shepherds
include the Aït Bouguemez,
who come for the summer,
living in the stonebuilt sheep-
folds, and the Aït Atta, with
their sheep, goats and camels,
who come up to the High
Atlas from Jbel Sarhro in
summer. Seeking good
pasture, they settle on the
slopes of M’Goun, around
Lake Izourar or on the Imilchil
plateau, moving south again
at the first frosts.
267
EXPERIENCE MORE 3
Asni
! C4 ⌂ 42 km (26 miles)
Ourika Valley on the left.
2 Shaded by olive, oak and
from Marrakech on road
R203 @ From Marrakech,
Oukaïmeden walnut trees, the road then
then by taxi
winds upwards in a series
! C4 ⌂ 74 km (46 miles)
of hairpin bends through With an interesting red-walled

a striking stony landscape. kasbah, Asni is the first large
P2017 @ From Marrakech,
The chalets and winter sports village on the road from
then taxi n Marrakech;
facilities are in the village Marrakech to the Tizi-n-Test
(0524) 43 61 31
itself, encircled by several Pass. Attractive orchards
A ski resort in winter and base mountain peaks. From surround the village, and there
for mountain hikes in summer, November to April, if the are many mule tracks leading
Oukaïmeden is a haven of snow is sufficiently deep, a up to the plateaus in its vicinity.
fresh air, just over an hour chair lift runs up to the summit. A road leads from this small
from Marrakech. The resort is The resort offers long-distance settlement to the village of
easily reached by a road that and cross-country skiing too. Imlil, the starting point for
forks off to the right at the Engravings can be seen in hikes to Jbel Toubkal.
village of Arhbalou, with the the village and on the plateau. The very popular moussem
Dating from the Bronze Age, at the town of Moulay Brahim,
they depict mainly daggers, 5 km (3 miles) from Asni, takes
INSIDER TIP halbards, shields and humans. place one to two weeks after
High Atlas About 2 km (1 mile) from the festival of Mouloud.
in Bloom the resort, the site of a trans- Moroccans ascribe to the saint
Spring is the best and mission mast at an altitude of Moulay Brahim the power to
most colourful season 2,740 m (8,993 ft) commands cure infertile women. Pilgrims
in which to explore the a magnificent view of the come to lay their gifts before
foothills of the High Atlas and the Marrakech plain. his tomb and to hang small
Atlas, with cherry and In the summer, Oukaïmeden is pieces of fabric from the shrubs
almond blossoms in full the starting point for hikes up here. When one of these frag-
bloom as wild flowers to the Tizi-n-Ouaddi Pass, the ments falls from the shrub,
carpet the valley floors. village of Tacheddirt, and to the woman who hung it may
Imlil and the Tizi-n-Test Pass. expect a child.
268
4
Tin Mal
! B4 ⌂ About 25 km
(15 miles) south of Asni
on road R203 # Mosque:
Daily, except Friday
for non-Muslims; ask the
caretaker in the village
Isolated at the foot of the

Atlas and situated uphill from
the village, 10 km (6 miles)
beyond Ijoukak on the Tizi-n-
Test Pass road, the Mosque of
Tin Mal, is the last remaining
sign of the Almohad conquest
in the 12th century.
Tin Mal, once a fortified Enormous arches inside the stark,
holy town, was founded in fortress-like Mosque of Tin Mal
1125 by the Ibn Toumart, a
religious leader of the Berber
tribes of the High Atlas. From made in the village itself, and
here, he fomented a holy war there is a lively market held
against the Almoravids. every Tuesday.
STAY
The mosque was built in A little further on R203
1153 by Abd el-Moumen, Ibn is Ouirgane, a resort whose
Toumart’s successor and the coolness in summer makes it
first Almohad ruler. In 1276, popular with the inhabitants Kasbah du Toubkal
the town was sacked by the of Marrakech. There are some This imposing fort on
Merinids. Only the sumptuous rewarding walks in the area the slopes below North
mosque was left standing. to nearby Berber hamlets and Africa’s highest peak
It has since been restored around a reservoir, and you can offers luxury and
and now, as a UNESCO World hire mountain bikes or arrange budget accommodation.
Heritage Site, it is one of the horse rides. The village has one ! C4 ⌂ Imlil
few religious buildings in or two good places to eat and ∑ kasbahtoubkal.com
Morocco open to non-Muslims. accommodation for anyone 
Its high walls and sturdy towers wishing to spend a few days
give it a fortress-like look. exploring. There is also a
The arches, particularly the small Thursday market. Kasbah Tamadot
ones near the well-preserved As the road climbs further Luxury property in the
mihrab (prayer niche), are up to the Tizi-n-Test Pass, Ouiragne Valley with
one of the mosque’s most snaking through red, almost landscaped gardens and
striking features. purple terrain, the landscape fabulous views.
becomes wilder. Starting from ! C4 ⌂ Asni ∑ virgin
Ijoukak, keen hikers can reach limitededition.com
the Agoundis Valley, walking
5 in the direction of Taghbart

Tizi-n-Test Pass and El-Maghzen, or make for

the Jbel Toubkal massif. Ouirgane Ecolodge
! B4 The Berber-styled
Beyond Ijoukak, the Tin Mal
rooms at this peaceful
Beyond Asni, a small side mosque is visible on the right.
retreat all have
road off to the right leads to Perched on arid outcrops
mountain views. Relax
Amizmiz, a pretty village with below the pass are imposing
in the cosy lounge in
a ruined kasbah, set amidst deserted kasbahs that once
front of the fireplace.
olive trees. The souk here is belonged to the Goundafa,
renowned for Berber pottery a powerful Berber tribe. ! C4 ⌂ Maghira,
Ouirgane ∑ ouirgane-
From November to April,
ecolodge.com
the pass is sometimes
blocked by snow. The descent 
Skiers taking to the slopes offers a beautiful view of the
of the popular Oukaïmeden Souss plain and of hills
resort on a winter’s day covered with argan trees.
269
narrows and gently rises. The Beyond the village

6-= road comes to an end at the
Ourika Valley village of Setti Fatma, a good of Tnine-de-l’Ourika,
starting point for hikes. Seven the valley becomes
! C4 ⌂ 68 km (42 miles)
waterfalls flow down the rocky verdant, enriched
scree above the village. The
P2017 @ From Marrakech; by the fast-flowing
first of these is easy to reach
n Marrakech; (0524) 43
by walking up the course of river as it traverses
61 31
the wadi. The trek up to the the landscape.
The trip to the Ourika valley, others is over increasingly
southeast of Marrakech, offers uneven ground, and some
a pleasant tour of the lower climbing is involved, so you
foothills of the Atlas. Beyond will need strong walking
the village of Tnine-de- boots. From that vantage
l’Ourika, the valley becomes point there is a magnificent
verdant, enriched by the fast- view over Setti Fatma.
flowing river as it traverses The village may also be
the landscape. The largest used as the starting point
souk in the valley takes place for longer hikes to Jbel
in the village on Mondays. All Toubkal and the Yagour
along the road that follows Plateau, whose peak is well
the course of the wadi, small known for the hundreds of
houses, cafés, grocery shops engravings that can be seen
and small hotels cling to the in the rock formations here.
hillside. Gardens and plots of The tomb of Setti Fatma is
cultivated land shaded by the focus of a lively four-day
many fruit trees are laid out moussem – one of the most
along the valley bottom. important festivals in
Between the months of Morocco – that takes place
February and April, the fruit in mid-August when Berbers
trees blossom and the valley from a wide area gather here
is carpeted with wildflowers. on pilgrimage.
The Ourika river is occasionally
subject to sudden and deva-
stating flooding, as seen in
August 1995, when many Houses perched upon
houses were swept away. the dramatic snowy
Beyond Arhbalou, the valley mountainside, Imlil
270
Franciscan nuns, who taught
8- the local Berber women these
Hikers resting at a waterfall
at Setti Fatma, one of seven
Midelt handicrafts, thus ensuring
flowing down to the village an income for many families.
! D3 @ From Meknès,
The Cirque de Jaffar, a
Rabat, Erfoud, Er-Rachidia
limestone gorge on the way
and Azrou
out of Midelt, makes for the
7 The small villages on each side most interesting tour here.
Imlil of the road out of Midelt However, the tracks there and
consist of traditional buildings back, covering 79 km (49 miles),
! C4 ⌂ 17 km (10.5 miles)
that are very similar to those are tough going and passable
from Asni on road P2015
typical of southern Morocco. only from May to October and
An hour and 30 minutes by While it was no more than a only by fourwheel drive.
car from Marrakech, the small modest ksar at the beginning The track along the hillside is
mountain village of Imlil sits of the 20th century, under the overshadowed by the imposing
at the head of the Aït Mizane French Protectorate it became outline of Jbel Ayachi, which can
Valley in the High Atlas. Its a garrison town. be climbed without much
altitude makes it a popular Apart from a souk and some difficulty. The Cirque de Jaffar
base for hiking. Most people cafés, there is little of note in is set in a wild landscape of
come here to tackle nearby Jbel Midelt itself. However, the town cedar, oak and juniper growing
Toubkal, the tallest mountain is located at the foot of Jbel in stony ground. The winding
in Morocco, but there are many Ayachi, making it the starting track passes through remote
other hikes of differing lengths point for tours. It enjoys a con Berber hamlets. A turning off to
and degrees of difficulty. The tinental climate – very cold in the left, at the Mit Kane forestry
shorter hikes are navigable on winter and very hot in summer. hut, leads back to Midelt.
your own; for longer hikes a Beautiful Middle Atlas The track that continues
guide can easily be arranged carpets, as well as fossils and west leads eventually to
in the village. The simplest trek mineral stones, are on sale in Imilchil. Disused lead and silver
is to a nearby waterfall, which Souk Jedid. There is also a mines in the impressive Aouli
is less than a mile from the workshop in Kasbah Myriem, Gorge, 25 km (15 miles) north
village. Another mile beyond on the road to Tattiouine, east of Midelt, have been sunk
the waterfall is the village of where carpets, blankets and into the mountainside. They
Armoud, which has good views highquality embroidery are were abandoned in the 1980s,
of the summit of Toubkal. produced. It used to be run by but the machinery remains.
The grand fortified grainstore are disintegrating, the lookout
on the way out of Igherm-n- towers crumbling, the walls
Did You Know? Ougdal is open to visitors.
Beyond Agouim, on the
cracking and the windows
are shattered.
At an altitude of other side of the wadi, stands However, low-ceilinged,
2,260 m (7,417 ft), the the restored kasbah at El- bare-walled corridors lead to
Tizi-n-Tichka Pass is Mdint, its towers decorated two reception rooms that
the highest road pass with relief patterns. Palm have miraculously survived
in Morocco. trees come into view, and a the passage of time. They are
wide stony desert plain with vestiges of El-Glaoui’s

tones of pink and beige leads opulence. The Andalusian-
to Ouarzazate. style rooms have engraved
stuccowork, painted cedar
9 ceilings and doors, and
Tizi-n-Tichka colourful zellij tilework. Day-
Pass 10 light entering through a glass-
Telouet covered dome and a small
! B4 ⌂ From Marrakech or
window framed with deco-
Ouarzazate on road N9 ! C4 ⌂ Accessible from
rative wrought iron lights the
@ Marrakech or Ouarzazate road N9 # Daily
rooms from dawn to sunset.
Built by the French in the About 5 km (3 miles) along From Telouet, a narrow,
1920s, this winding road runs the road running down from winding metalled road offers
through a landscape that is, the Tizi-n-Tichka Pass, towards a picturesque route to the
by turn, arid, mineral-rich Ouarzazate, a narrow minor village of Aït Benhaddou
environments and fertile road leads off to the left. It (p280). In this fertile valley,
valleys. Pisé villages, in tones drops down into a steep valley, planted with palm, fig and
of red or grey, huddle at the and 20 km (12 miles) further olive trees, and irrigated by
foot of hillsides. reaches the kasbah of Telouet. Wadi Ounila, kasbahs signal
The first pass, Tizi-n-Aït This was one of the homes the past importance of El-
Imger offers a panoramic view of Al-Thami el-Glaoui, pasha Glaoui’s fiefdom. The charming
of the Atlas chain. Here, the of Marrakech, whose fiefdom village of Anemiter, standing
road is lined with stalls selling covered a large part of the at the head of the Ounila
pottery, mineral rocks and High Atlas. El-Glaoui served
stones whose colours are a Sultan Mohammed V, then
little too bright to be natural. switched to the French in
On its eastern end,
From here up to the Tizi-n- 1912. His opposition to the
Tichka Pass crops gradually sultan cost him dear; on his the chain of the High
give way to a landscape of death his family was exiled Atlas descends as if it
bare red soil. The mountains and his possessions dispersed. had been crushed,
become rounder and the Thus it was that Telouet, a
houses are built higher, with town with an illustrious past,
forming a desert
more decoration, anticipating has been the victim of neglect plateau surrounded
those of the Moroccan south. since 1956. The glazed tiles by rolling mountains.
valley some 11 km (7 miles) The colourful tents of the
from Telouet, is unusually well great souk spread out across
preserved for its age. the wide plateau. Traders sell
basketry, cooking utensils,
blankets and handwoven
carpets, metalware, clothing,
11 basic foodstuffs, and other
Megdaz items. On the hillside, herds
of cows and camels and flocks
! C4
of sheep await buyers.
The authentic and unspoilt The twin lakes of Plateau
Berber village of Megdaz lies des Lacs can be reached by
at the remote heart of the following a long track that
central High Atlas, nestled on runs from El-Ksiba, crossing
a mountainside. There is little narrow gorges and undulating
to do here, but there is a small passes, or on a road via Rich,
lodge at which you can break further east. The landscape is
your journey and spend some dotted with tighremts (kasbahs),
time admiring the red earthen and a splash of colour is provi-
architecture particular to this The red earthen mosque ded by the emerald waters
corner of the wporld. in Megdaz, an archetypal of lakes Tiselit and Iseli. In the
To reach Megdaz, leave Berber mountain village summer, sheep are brought
Marrakech on road N8 to Fès, to the lush pasture here.
then after 12 km (7.5miles)
fork right on to the R210 to by rolling mountains. Imilchil
Demnate. Follow signs to is at the heart of this sparsely IMILCHIL
Imi-n-Ifri and, at the natural populated region – the terri- MARRIAGE FAIR
bridge (which is worth a look), tory of the Aït Haddidou. The annual Marriage
take the right hand fork on This group of semi-nomadic Fair, a moussem at
the R307, towards Skoura. shepherds originally came from which women choose
Boumalne du Dadès, located a fiancé, takes place at
in the high Dadès valley, where the end of September
some of them still live. They at a spot known as Aït
12 arrived in Morocco during the Haddou Ameur, some
Imilchil centuries immediately after 20 km (12 miles) from
the introduction of Islam, and Imilchil. The origin of
! D3 ⌂ Accessible via
there is evidence of their the fair goes back to
Kasba Tadla (on road N8)
presence in the Boumalne du the story of two lovers,
and El-Ksiba (on road R317)
Dadès region during the 11th Hadda and Moha, who
On its eastern end, the chain century. For several years they were members of rival
of the High Atlas descends as were in conflict with the power- tribes and kept apart
if it had been crushed, forming ful Aït Atta tribe in disputes by their parents. Their
a desert plateau surrounded over pasture, then settled in tears created two
the Assif Melloul Valley in the lakes, Iseli and Tiselit,
17th century. on the Plateau des Lacs.
The village of Imilchil is During the moussem
dominated by a sumptuously young girls may talk
decorated kasbah. Its towers freely with men from
have a curious feature: the other tribes (albeit with
angles of the crenellation are a chaperone), and young
set with finials resembling couples can visit adouls
inverted cooking pots. This (lawyers) to sign a
betrothal agreement.
decorative device is also rela-
The event, which
ted to superstitious belief, as
attracts huge crowds of
it gives protection against
tourists, has lost some
lightning and the “evil eye”
authenticity. The parade
and is a symbol of prosperity.
of couples and the folk
dances are a superficial
aspect of what is in
essence a great
The Tizi-n-Tichka Pass Road religious gathering.
snaking its way through the
arid High Atlas landscape
273
HIKING ROUTES IN INSIDER TIP
JBEL TOUBKAL
Exploring
the Massif
Detailed maps of the
MASSIF area can be obtained at

Imlil. Mules can also be
hired for walks lasting
several days.
The unspoiled beauty and variety of hiking routes in the

Toubkal massif make it a popular destination for
day-trippers and seasoned mountaineers alike.
As well as the opportunity to climb to the top of Jbel

Toubkal, at 4,167 m (13,676 ft) the highest peak in the
Atlas, the Jbel Toubkal massif offers great scope for hikes
lasting several days. Climbing Toubkal is not particularly
difficult, but the fact that it is a high-altitude hike over
rough terrain should be taken into account. From the
Toubkal Refuge, the summit of Jbel Toubkal can be
reached in about four hours. For the finest view over the Tizi Oussem
Tizi Oussem
High Atlas, aim to reach the summit in the late morning.
LepineyLepiney
Hut Hut
Toubkal Toubkal
Talat n’IfriTalat n’Ifri Refuge Refuge
3,980m 3,980m Jbel Toubkal
Jbel Toubkal
(13,058)(13,058) 4,167 m 4,167 m
(13,671 )(13,671 )
Akioud Akioud
4,035m 4,035m
A traditional Berber village near Imlil, (13,238)(13,238)
nestled in the Jbel Toubkal massif
Bou Ouzzal
Bou Ouzzal
3,860m 3,860m
(12,664)(12,664)
Igger Igger
At 3,000 m (9,846 ft), Lepiney Hut n’Abdeli n’Abdeli
3,815m 3,815m
is a handy base used by seasoned (12,516)(12,516)
hikers and rock climbers.
Toubkal Refuge is the last stopping

It is best to climb to the
place before the four-hour trek to the
top of Jbel Toubkal in
summit of Jbel Toubkal. At 3,200 m
the summer months.
(10,502 ft), it is open all year-round.
The summit offers
breathtaking views
over the whole of the
High Atlas range.
274
Surrounded by walnut and fruit
trees, the mountain village of HIGH ATLAS
Imlil is the starting point for the
Jbel Toubkal
climb up Jbel Toubkal and also Massif
many other mountain hikes.
From here it is 11 km (6.8 miles) N N
to the Toubkal Refuge. 0 km 0 km 2 2
0 miles 0 miles 2 2
Locator Map
For more detail see p262
Aourirt n'Ouassif
Aourirt n'Ouassif The pretty village of
2,726m 2,726m Tacheddirt, at
(9,894) (9,894)
2314 m (7,595 ft) and
Tinerhourhine
Tinerhourhine set amid mountains,
is reached via the
Ait Ait Tizi-n-Tamatert Pass,
Souka Souka Quaneskrra
Quaneskrra east of Imlil.
Imlil Imlil Tamatert

Tamatert Tacheddirt
Tacheddirt
Aremd Aremd
Aremd village, in the

Mizane valley, lies at
1,900 m (6,236 ft). Its stone
houses cling to the rocky
mountain-side, surrounded
Sidi Sidi
Chamharouch by cultivated terraces.
Chamharouch
At the end of a deep

gorge, the koubba of Sidi
Chamharouch, king of
the djnouu (genies),
attracts pilgrims all
year-round.
l
m
)
In winter, mountaineers
climb through snow to the
summit of Jbel Toubkal
La ke Lake Lake Ifni, five hours’ walk

Ifni Ifni
from Toubkal Refuge, lies in
a mineral-rich environment.
Shepherds’ huts stand on
Ait Igrane
Ait Igrane the lakeshore.
275
Rose petals awaiting distillation, Dadès Valley
OUARZAZATE
AND THE
SOUTHERN OASES
This fascinating region at the southern edge of
the High Atlas, where desert and mountains meet,
is the birthplace of the great Moroccan dynasties.
In the 11th century, Almoravid warriors, who came
from the Sahara, set out from the south to extend
their empire from Senegal to Spain. In the 16th
century, the Saadians, who came from Arabia,
left the Draa Valley to conquer Morocco. Lastly,
the Alaouites, the dynasty that still holds power
in Morocco today, settled in the Tafilalt region in
the 13th century. Centuries of trade in gold, salt
and slaves melded the local populations, so that
Arabs, Berbers and Haratines lived side by side.
Life here centres on three great wadis, the Draa,
the Dadès and the Ziz. These rivers have created
stunning landscapes, carving gorges and canyons
out of the sides of the High Atlas and Anti-Atlas.
The date palm that brings welcome shade to small
plots of corn and barley accounts for the region’s
wealth, and palm groves are punctuated by
hundreds of kasbahs and ksour. These fortified
villages and houses protected the sedentary
populations against attack from nomadic tribes,
and many of them are still inhabited today.
277
OUARZAZATE AND
THE SOUTHERN OASES
Must See 12 Dadès Gorge
1 Aït Benhaddou 13 Tamtattouchte Aghbala Aghbal
14 Goulmima
Experience More
15 Tinerhir
2 Ouarzazate
16 Boumalne du Dadès
3 Taourirt Kasbah
17 Ziz Gorge
4 Zagora
18 Source Bleue de Meski
5 Draa Valley
19 Er-Rachidia
6 Jbel Sarhro
20 Erfoud
7 Tamegroute
21 Merzouga
8 Mhamid
22 Tafilalt Palm Grove h h
9 Skoura
23 Rissani i g i g
10 El-Kelaa M’Gouna H H
11 Todra Gorge
Msemrir Msemrir
Aguerd Aguerd
N’ouzrou N’ouzrou
Sidi-Rahhal
Sidi-Rahhal HIGH HIGH
ATLASATLAS DADÈS GORGE
DADÈS GORGE
p260 p260
Aït Ourir Aït Ourir
Aït Arbi Kasbah

Aït Arbi Kasbah
BOUMALNE
BOUMALNE
DU DADÈS
DU DADÈS
Imiter Imiter
Telouet Telouet EL-KELAA

EL-KELAA
ToundoutToundout M'GOUNA
M'GOUNA
Ikniounn Ikniounn
Tizi-n-Tazazert
Tizi-n-Tazazert
Pass Pass
SKOURA
SKOURA
AÏT BENHADDOU
AÏT BENHADDOU RO HRO
è è RH R
s
SA SA
Amerzgane
Amerzgane d d
Mellal Airporta d i
Da Da
Béni MellalBéni
Airport di
W Wa Bab n’Ali Bab n’Al
OUARZAZATE
OUARZAZATE El Mansour El Mansour L L
E E
JB JB
Eddahbi Eddahbi
Reservoir Reservoir Nekob Nekob
TAOURIRT
TAOURIRT
KASBAHKASBAH W W Imi-n'Kern
Imi-n'Kern
ad ad
iD iD
Finnt Finnt r r
Zaouia Zaouia
aa
aa
Agdz Tamnougalt
Àït-SaounÀït-Saoun Agdz Tamnougalt TafetchnaTafetchna
J bel R J bel R
ha h
DRA DRA rt
A A
Tazenakht
Tazenakht
Igdaoun Igdaoun
VA VA
LL LL
E E
Y Y
Kourkouda
Kourkouda Azlag Gorge
Azlag Gorge
ZAGORA
ZAGORA
AmazraouAmazraou
TAMEGROUTE
TAMEGROUTE
SOUTHERN
SOUTHERN
MOROCCO
MOROCCO
AND AND Jbel BeJbel Be An
ni ni
WESTERN
WESTERN
SAHARA
SAHARA
p298 p298
T
Tissint Tissint
MHAMID
MHAMID
0 kilometres
0 kilometres
30 30 N N
Boumia Boumia Midelt Midelt
OUARZAZATE
OUARZAZATE
AND AND
THE SOUTHERN
THE SOUTHERN
OASES OASES
la Tounfit Tounfit Cirque deCirque

Jaffar de Jaffar
Jbel Ayachi Jbel Ayachi
3,737m 3,737m
s s
(12,260 ) (12,260 )
t l at l a
A A
Wa
Wa
Jbel Aderdouz
Jbel Aderdouz Amouguèr
Amouguèr
3,055 m 3,055 m Rich Rich
MIDDLE
MIDDLE
ATLASATLAS
di Z
di Z
(10,023 ) (10,023 )
p212 p212
iz
iz
Âït-el-Rhazi
Âït-el-Rhazi ZIZ GORGE
ZIZ GORGE
Tizga Tizga Djebel-Bou-Hamid

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2,252 m 2,252 m
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(7,388 ) (7,388 ER-RACHIDIA
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Jbel BaddouJbel Baddou
2,920 m 2,920 m SOURCESOURCE
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(9,580 ) (9,580 )
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1
AÏT BENHADDOU
! C4 ⌂ 30 km (19 miles) northwest of Ouarzazate, off Road N9
n Ouarzazate; (0524) 88 24 85
This fortified cluster of kasbahs is one of the most striking and best
EXPERIENCE Ouarzazate and the Southern Oases
preserved in the country. It appears to tumble down the sloping left

bank of the Wadi Mellah in a cascade of red mud-brick terraces, walls
and towers. It is simply magnificent.
The once heavily fortified ksar of Aït
Benhaddou is reached on foot from the village
on the opposite bank of the river, and can
easily be explored without a guide. Since the
village was made a UNESCO World Heritage
Site, some of its kasbahs have undergone
restoration. Crenellated towers are decorated
with geometric designs in negative relief,
creating a play of light and shadow. Behind the
kasbahs stand plain earth houses. Today, the
ksar is inhabited by fewer than ten families.
Beyond Aït Benhaddou, a minor road leads
to the ruined fortress of Tamdaght, once a
kasbah inhabited by the Glaoui. Its towers are
now inhabited by nesting storks. The road Intricate designs adorn the upper
continues to Telouet, 32 km (20 miles) away. tiers of the town's ancient structures
Must See
PICTURE PERFECT
Aït Benhaddou
at Golden Hour
Aït Benhaddou is at
its most spectacular
(and photogenic) during
the hours of sunrise and
sunset when the red
mudbrick walls and
towers practically glow
in the warm, low light.
Consider staying in the
neighbouring village on
the opposite bank of the
Wadi Mellah to shoot
this breathtaking ksar 1
at golden hour.
1 A man and his donkey

descend the hillside from the
front gate of Aït Benhaddou.
2 A Berber woman weaves a
carpet using traditional
methods in a hilltop house.
3 Tools and trinkets
are displayed within the
fortified city walls. 2 3
CINEMATIC SCENERY
It seems that directors
the world over are
drawn to the drama of
Aït Benhaddou, with
the town featuring in
numerous film and TV
productions, including
Game of Thrones (p52).
It's also a setting in
films such as Gladiator
(2000), Ridley Scott’s
Kingdom of Heaven
(2005), Oliver Stone’s
Alexander (2004) and
fantasy action block
busters Prince of Persia
(2009) and The Mummy
(1999). Some of the
guides here worked as
extras on these sets,
and have the photos
to prove it.
Evening sunlight
illuminates the ksar of
Ait Benhaddou on the left
bank of the Wadi Mellah
281
into a hotel to provide rooms
during the shooting of David
Lean’s Lawrence of Arabia. It is
now a restaurant.
Atlas Film Studios

" ' ⌂ On road N9, 6 km
(4 miles) northwest of
Ouarzazate § (0524) 88 22
23 # 8am–6:30pm daily
(except during filming)
CLA Studios
" ' ⌂ On road N9, 5 km
(3 miles) northwest of
Ouarzazate § (0544) 88 20
53 # 8am–6:30pm daily
Four Egyptian-style statues defending a 3'

film set at Atlas Film Studios in Ouarzazate Taourirt Kasbah
! C4 ⌂ Opposite the crafts
centre on the road out of
EXPERIENCE MORE Ouarzazate leading to the

Dadès Valley
Ouarzazate’s only historic

and Oliver Stone’s Alexander, building, the Taourirt Kasbah,
2 to Ridley Scott’s Gladiator. On stands as a monument to
Ouarzazate the outskirts of town are Atlas Glaoui expansionism. At the
Film Studios and CLA Studios, beginning of the 20th century,
! C4 @ From Marrakech,
both of which offer tours to the Glaouis were lords of the
Tinerhir, Taroudant
visitors. In the desert behind South and controlled access
and Zagora n Avenue
CLA is a large castle set that is to the High Atlas. They were
Mohammed V; (0524)
featured in Game of Thrones. the first to assist with French
88 24 85
About 10 km (6 miles) to the expansion in the South. Begun
A former garrison town of the south is the Finnt Oasis, with in the 18th century and reno
French Foreign Legion, now fine pisé ksour. A little further vated in the 19th, the kasbah
a peaceful provincial town, on is the ElMansour Eddahbi once housed the large Glaoui
Ouarzazate was founded in Dam, fed by the Dadès and family and their servants.
1928. Located at the inter Ouarzazate rivers, which join The façade, consisting of
section of the Draa and Dadès to form the Draa. The dam high, smooth earthen walls,
valleys, with the Agadir region provides water for the golf is pitted and decorated with
to the west, it is on the main course, the Draa’s palm groves geometric patterns in negative
route between the mountains and electricity for the valley. relief. Inside, a maze of stair
and the desert. It is also a About 7 km (4 miles) northwest cases at every level of the
good base from which to visit of Ouarzazate is the majestic building leads to rooms of
Aït Benhaddou and the Tiffoultoute Kasbah, offering various sizes lit by low windows.
Skoura palm grove. fine views from its terrace. In The larger rooms have plaster
Avenue Mohammed V, the the 1960s it was converted work decoration featuring
main street, crosses the town floral and geometric motifs,
and leads to the Dadès Valley. and colourful wooden ceilings.
The town has a great many There are also some tiny rooms
hotels and restaurants,
municipal gardens and the
Did You Know? with low rushmatted ceilings,
doorless arches, redtiled
crumbling Taourirt Kasbah. The Southern Oases floors and white walls.
One of the area’s main experience some of
industries is filmmaking. the most extreme heat
Hundreds of films have been in Morocco, with highs
shot in this region, from David of 50ºC (122º F). Geometric patterns in
Lean’s Lawrence of Arabia, negative relief adorning the
through Scorsese’s Kundun façade of Taourirt Kasbah
282
Amazraou, set amid Camel” evokes the great age
of the trans-Saharan caravans,
lemon, almond and
although the illusion is ever so
olive trees on the
southern side of the
slightly spoiled by the presence
of a large concrete préfecture EAT
town, is a peaceful (town hall) just behind it.
Douyria
The village of Amazraou, set
haven on the edge amid lemon, almond and olive
The place for a
of the desert. trees on the southern side of
comforting couscous
and tajine – or something
the town, is a peaceful haven
a little different, such as
on the edge of the desert. In
roasted goat or even
Adjacent to the kasbah is a the former mellah, the mosque camel, which is a a local
fortified former Berber village stands next to the abandoned delicacy in these parts.
ksar, which probably predates synagogue. Many of
! C4 ⌂ 72 Avenue
the kasbah. It is inhabited by Amazraou’s inhabitants
Mohammed V,
a busy population. In the continue the Jewish tradition
Ouarzazate
narrow winding streets of this of making silver jewellery. ∑ restaurant-
ksar, you will find an internet By following a footpath ouarzazate.net
café, a former synagogue that from La Fibule hotel, the

now serves as a carpet shop, summit of Jbel Zagora (from
and a herbalist. The crafts which the town got it’s name)
centre opposite the Taourirt can be reached in one hour. It La Kasbah
Kasbah offers an interesting is crowned by a military post des Sables
range of carpets, stone and commands a breath- Enjoy a candlelit Berber
carving, jewellery and pottery, taking view of the valley. The banquet featuring an
all at relatively high prices. remains of walls indicate the enticing mix of
presence of the Almoravids Moroccan cuisine
in the 11th century. and inventive
Several hotels and tour French dishes.
4 companies offer excursions ! C4 ⌂ 195 Hay Aït Kdif,
Zagora in four-wheel-drive vehicles Ouarzazate
or on camelback. Lasting from ∑ lakasbahdessables.
! D4 @ From Ouarzazate
a day to two weeks, the tours com
n (0524) 88 24 85
take in the impressive Chigaga 
Established by the French dunes south of Mhamid, and
authorities during the the town of Foum-Zguid,
Protectorate, Zagora is the situated to the west of Zagora.
most convenient base for
exploring this spectacular
region. The famous sign
saying “Timbuktu, 52 Days by
283
THE KASBAH
Kasbahs (tighremt in Berber) have long fulfilled the role of fortified
castles. Housing the ruling family and their many servants within heavily
guarded walls, the kasbah acted as a place of refuge for its inhabitants,
both people and animals, in times of siege (a common occurence
throughout Morocco’s tumultuous and at times gruesome history), as
well as affording protection from the cold and other threats to safety.
A TYPICAL KASBAH
INSIDER TIP
A lordly residence or family dwelling, the kasbah is an
Crumbling
imposing edifice, traditionally built to a square plan. While
Kasbahs
kasbahs in the mountain valleys are thick-set, those in the
southern oases have a taller, more slender outline, and are Taliouine and Telouet
often constructed from the distinctive red earth that are home to some
colours the landscape. At each of the four corners are beautiful abandoned
towers crowned with merlons rising above the height of Glaoui Kasbahs. See
the walls. Their dimensions being dictated by the size of them while you still can
the horizontally placed beams, the rooms are often longer – these fragile buildings
than they are wide. The largest room is the reception hall, won’t withstand the
which often has a highly decorative painted ceiling and is elements for long with-
reserved for men only. The stable and sheepfold are out proper maintenance.
located on the ground floor, as is a fortified granary.
Stepped merlons
(crenellation)
Towers
Defensive walls are decorated

with geometric patterns,
incised motifs and blind
arches cut into the pisé.
Painted ceilings
Maize drying
on the roof
Screened
windows
Illustration depicting
a typical Kasbah in the
Southern Oases
Wooden doors can

only be opened
from within.
284
Did You Know?
In 2009 the Moroccan
government reserved
Dh 230 million to
restore the country’s
Kasbahs.
The beautiful Amerhidil

Kasbah at Skoura
285
Timiderte Kasbah sitting on

the left bank of Wadi Draa
in the Draa Valley
Continuing along the left bank Still in the direction of Zagora,

5 of the Draa, the track leads to the road passes the Igdaoun
Draa Valley the pisé village of Tamnougalt, Kasbah, with pyramid-shaped
with narrow, partly covered towers. At Tinzouline, a
! D4 ⌂ 200 km (124 miles)
streets. You may want to bring track to the right leads
between Ouarzazate and
a torch to view the superb to a site with rock
Zagora on road N9
painted ceilings of the kasbah. engravings, 7 km
Rock engravings discovered There is also a former mellah (4 miles) away.
near Tinzouline show that the with a synagogue. The valley narrows
Draa Valley was inhabited by Back on the Draa Valley as it approaches the
warriors from prehistoric road, the elegant Timiderte Azlag gorge, to the
times. The valley, where Kasbah comes into view on the right of which is a high,
buildings are in a good state left bank of the wadi, backing smooth cliff. Soon
of preservation, contains a on to Jbel Sarhro. Villages and after, a signpost
wealth of ksour and kasbahs. ksour here are rarely signpos- saying “Circuit
The road that runs between ted. In Tansikht, a narrow road Touristique de
Ouarzazate and Agdz crosses turns off to the left towards Binzouli” will
the desert plateaus of Jbel Nekob, Jbel Sarhro and Rissani. lead you to the
Tifernine. Beyond Aït Saoun, The bridge over the wadi joins palm grove,
hills of black rock give way to a track that passes through which reaches
steep canyons, as the road villages in the palm grove. To Zagora on the
climbs towards the Tizi-n- rejoin the road, you can ford other side of
Tinififft Pass. To the north the river in several places. the river.
appear the foothills of the
High Atlas, and to the east is
Jbel Sarhro.
Agdz, an unassuming town
on the edge of a palm grove,
is convenient for a short stop.
Between Agdz and Zagora, the
road follows a string of oases.
About 6 km (4 miles) from
Agdz, a track branching off to
the left leads to the majestic
ksar of Tamnougalt, which
once controlled access to the
trade routes of the Draa Valley.
The interior reveals some
striking frescoes, painted in
pale colours for a film shoot.
286
Ochre pisé koubbas line the Guides can be hired at the
valley, while cemeteries are Baha Kasbah in Nekob. The MARATHON
filled with the vertical flat route from Nekob to the Tizi DES SABLES
stones that are typical of nTazazert Pass is tricky, but The Marathon des
Muslim graveyards. Between the spot known as BabnAli Sables is often called
Tissergate and Zagora, the has some striking rock form the “toughest footrace
palm grove stretches to the ations. The track to Boumalne on Earth”. It is a six-day,
distant foothills of Jbel Rhart. du Dadès crosses the Vallée 251-km (156-mile) ultra-
des Oiseaux (Valley of Birds), marathon, about the
home to over 150 species. distance of six regular-
sized marathons. Tem-
6 peratures can soar to
Jbel Sarhro 50˚C (122˚F), much of
7 the course is on sand
! D4 ⌂ 98 km (61 miles)
Tamegroute and competitors have
south of Ouarzazate; from
to carry all their own
Tansikht to Nekob on road ! D4
supplies. The race still
R108, or from Boumalne
Surrounded by ramparts, the attracts about 1,000
du Dadès
ksar at Tamegroute contains a competitors each year.
Jbel Sarhro is a wild and inhos Zaouia Nassiriya. This great
pitable region that is still off Islamic learning centre was
the tourist track. It is separated founded in the 17th century, In the potters’ workshop
from the main AntiAtlas chain and its influence extended outside, members of seven
by the Draa Valley to the west throughout southern Morocco. families produce traditional
and from the High Atlas by Beneath the arcades of the pots with a green glaze typical
Wadi Dadès to the north. courtyard, near the entrance of Tamegroute ceramics.
Jbel Sarhro is the territory to the tomb of the founder About 5 km (3 miles) south
of the Aït Atta, who, from the Mohammed Bou Nasri, sick of Tamegroute, and off to the
17th and 19th centuries, were and disabled people gather, left, are the Tinfou Dunes, an
the most important tribe in in the hope of being cured. isolated ridge of sand rising
southern Morocco. This semi The holy man’s works laid up abruptly in the middle of
nomadic people never bowed the foundations of the Koranic the stony desert. Leaving
to the power of the sultans, Library. A collection of priceless Tagounite, a difficult track
and they were the last to resist manuscripts displayed in one leads you to the foot of Jbel
the French at the Battle of Bou of the rooms includes an 11th Tadrart and the beautiful
Gafer in 1933. They usually live century gazelleskin Koran, Nesrate Dunes.
in ksour but use tents when calligraphy with gold dust and
they drive livestock to pasture. saffron illuminations, and
Jbel Sarhro is a region of treatises on algebra, astro
sheer rockfaces, undulating nomy and Arabic literature.
plateaux and blackish rocky
escarpments. The rugged
territory is crossed from north The minaret of
to south by tracks best tackled the zaouia in
in a fourwheeldrive vehicle Tamegroute, and an
(routes are seldom signposted). interior mosaic (inset)
are to be found here. Some of
these are still occupied, and
some are attached to private
houses. Many of Skoura’s
inhabitants, however, have
moved into the breeze-block
villages that line the road.
The Ben Moro Kasbah
stands on the left of the road
above Skoura. It was built in

the 17th century and, now
completely restored, has been
converted into a guesthouse.
The entrance to the palm
grove is on the other side of
A Bedouin man leading a caravan across Wadi Amerhidil. The grove can
the great expanse of the Sahara desert be explored only on foot, by
bicycle or on mule-back. The
grove is irrigated by khettaras
black appearance. A little (underground channels) and
8 further on, a track to the left wells dug at regular intervals.
Mhamid leads to Foum-Rjam, one of Ruined kasbahs stand among
the largest prehistoric necro- palm trees, fig trees, birch and
! D4
polises in the Maghreb. Tumuli tamarisk – whose tannin-rich
This border post and small mark thousands of graves. flowers are used to process
administrative centre is the About 45 km (28 miles) south animal skins. The most impos-
last oasis before the great of Mhamid, the Chigaga dunes, ing is the Amerhidil Kasbah,
expanse of the Sahara. To the which can be reached only by which was once owned by the
south stretches a stony desert, four-wheel drive, stretch to Glaoui family and which domi-
the Hammada du Draa. From the horizon. nates the wadi. The restored
Mhamid, Wadi Draa sinks below interior is now open to visitors.
the sand to reappear on the The kasbahs of Aït Sidi el-Mati,
Atlantic coast hundreds of Aït Souss, El-Kebbaba and Dar
miles to the west. 9 Aïchil are also worth a visit.
The ruins of a ksar indicate Skoura Further east, Aït Abou, built
the former existence of a great in 1863 and the oldest kasbah
! C4 @ From Ouarzazate
caravan centre, from which in the palm grove, has six
and Tinerhir
Ahmed el-Mansour’s armies storeys and walls 25 m (82 ft)
set out in the 16th century The small sleepy town of high. Its outbuildings have
to take Timbuktu. Skoura is surrounded by an been turned into a small
Coming from Zagora, the impressive palm grove, which short-stay gîte. An orchard
Tizi-Beni-Selmane Pass offers was laid out in the 12th century with pomegranate and fig
a stunning view of Jbel Bani by the Almohad sultan Yacoub trees provides the necessary
and the desert, whose covering el-Mansour. The most beautiful shade for growing crops.
of volcanic stone gives it its kasbahs in southern Morocco Twenty-five kilometres
(15 miles) northeast of Skoura
The imposing Amerhidil

Kasbah dominating the
Skoura palm grove
288
Ruined kasbahs 3,000 to 4,000 tonnes of
petals. The harvest is taken
stand among palm
to two local factories. One of
STAY
trees, fig trees, birch them, in El-Kelaa M’Gouna, is
and tamarisk, whose laid out in a kasbah, and it is
tannin-rich flowers open to visitors in April and
May. While a proportion of the Kasbah Aït
are used to process roses are used to make rose- Ben Damiette
animal skins. water for local distribution, This lovingly restored,
the rest are exported for use earth-built kasbah on
in the perfume industry. the fringes of a remote
is the village of Toundout, The Rose Festival takes palm oasis is the perfect
where there are some highly place after the harvest and is desert retreat. A rich
decorated kasbahs. The attended by all the inhabitants mix of traditional
French and Moroccan
Marabout of Sidi M’Barek of the valleys of the Dadès.
cuisine is available at
served as a stronghold where Young girls from El-Kelaa
the hotel restaurant.
the semi-nomadic people M’Gouna, accompanied by
stored their crops under bendirs (tambourines), perform ! C4 ⌂ Skoura
the protection of the saint. a sinuous dance, their long hair ∑ kasbahaitben
damiette.com
A little way beyond Skoura, braided with coloured wool.
towards El-Kelaa M’Gouna, On the road out of town is 
unexpected plantations of a craft cooperative with about
imported Australia grasses 30 workshops. Daggers are Kasbah Titrit
help to preserve moisture made here, the craftsmen A stunning kasbah
in the otherwise arid ground. continuing a Jewish tradition residence with terraces
of making sheaths and dagger opening to spectacular
handles out of cedar or camel mountain views and
bone. The steel blades are
0 made in the mountain village
with an attached
wellness area.
El-Kelaa M’Gouna of Azlague, not far from
! C4 ⌂ Aït Benhaddou
El-Kelaa M’Gouna. ∑ kasbah-titrit.net
! D3 n Guides’ office,
Between Skoura and El-
Ouarzazate; (0524) 88 
Kelaa M’Gouna, kasbahs are
24 85
set among greenery through-
This town, whose name means out the Dadès Valley. The Villa Zagora
“fortress”, is located in the modern concrete houses A traditional villa on
heart of rose country. In the here contrast with the fine the edge of the desert
10th century, pilgrims return- traditional buildings. Ruined with six elegant suites,
ing from Mecca brought Rosa kasbahs are now part of the plus a Berber tent on the
damascena back with them to local landscape. Many hikes roof for when you want
Morocco. These peppery- and tours by four-wheel drive to sleep under the stars.
scented flowers have devel- are organized from El-Kelaa ! D4 ⌂ Zagora
oped a resistance to the cold M’Gouna, particularly to the ∑ mavillaausahara.com
and dry conditions in which Vallée des Roses and to the 
they are now grown. Each ksar at Bou Thrarar, a breath-
spring, rose-picking produces taking mountain trek.
Xaluca Dadès Hotel
With panoramic views
of the valley below, this
exquisite hotel offers a
rooftop pool, a spa,
numerous sports
facilities and a variety
of bedroom suites. The
hotel also organizes
excursions around
the High Atlas.
! D4 ⌂ El-Kelaa
M’Gouna ∑ xaluca.com

289
Gorge. The best time to view
11 the gorge is in the morning,
Todra Gorge when the rays of the sun
break through between the
! D3
high cliffs on either side.
Sheer cliffs rise up dramatically
each side of the narrow corridor
that forms the Todra Gorge.
These are the most impressive w
cliffs in southern Morocco, and Dadès Gorge

they are well known to experi
! D3 ⌂ Grands taxis from
enced mountaineers. Wadi
Boumalne du Dadès
Todra flows through this great
geological fault and on into Bordered by greenery, Wadi
the Tinerhir palm grove. Dadès stands out against the
Two hotels make it possible rocky landscape. Cultivated
to stop overnight in the Todra land on the banks of the wadi
is surrounded by fig, almond
and walnut trees and poplars.
PICTURE PERFECT About 2 km (1 mile) from
Dadès Gorge Boumalne stands the Aït
There is a particular spot Mouted Kasbah, which once rise up against a backdrop of
in the gorge where the belonged to the Glaoui. rocks that seem to be pressed
road contorts through As the road rises, it passes together sideways like fingers.
four tight switchbacks some dramatic geological Beyond Aït Oudinar, the
before snaking off along limestone folds that have road crosses Wadi Dadès,
a rocky cliff high above been shaped by erosion. At following the bottom of the
the wadi floor. Stop at the foot of these formations gorge between sheer cliffs. It
the top for a dramatic stand the ruins of the Aït Arbi then runs along the edge of
photo opportunity. Kasbah. Further on are the deep canyons, home to royal
Tamnalt Kasbahs, whose towers eagles and vultures. On the
plateau, the valley widens
again, and small villages
overlook the riverbank.
The final stretch from
Boumalne du Dadès before
Msemrir passes through much
wilder country. Beyond Msemrir,
a track that is passable only
by fourwheel drive leads east
to the Todra Gorge and north
to the High Atlas and Imilchil.
13
Tamtattouchte
! D3 ⌂ 36 km (22 miles)
north of Tinerhir
The picturesque village of

Tamtattouchte is located at
the other extremity of the
Todra Gorge, its earth houses
blending into the mountains.
Here, small plots of land that
stand out from their arid,
rocky surroundings are
irrigated by Wadi Todra.
Tamtattouchte is the starting
Wadi Todra flowing through point of tracks to the Dadès
the Todra Gorge as the sun Gorge to the west and Imilchil
hits the cliffs in the morning to the north, leading over
290
passes, through gorges, across a mosque and the well that The ruins of a kasbah
plateaux and over mountains. provides the ksar with water. rising up out of the rocks
Ask a local for information The upper floors of some of in the Dadès Gorge
about the state of tracks nego- the houses span the narrow
tiable by four-wheel drive, streets, providing a strange
particularly after periods of contrast of light and shadow. now in a state of disrepair.
rainfall. Be aware that no To the southeast is Aït el-Haj
destinations are signposted. Ali, the former mellah (Jewish
quarter), whose houses make
15 an interesting architectural
Tinerhir ensemble. North of the town
14 stretches a palm grove irriga-
! D4 @ From Er-Rachidia
Goulmima ted by Wadi Todra.
and Ouarzazate, and
About 2 km (1 mile) from
! D3 @ From Er-Rachidia grands taxis n Hôtel
the bridge across the wadi, on
and Tinejdad Tomboctou, Ouarzazate;
the road to the Todra Gorge, a
(0524) 88 24 85
In the heart of the Rheris oasis, viewing platform commands a
about 20 ksour stand on the This lively town, built on a stunning view. Here, guides
banks of Wadi Rheris surroun- rocky outcrop, lies midway with camels offer their services,
ding the village of Goulmima. between the Draa Valley and but you will need no help walk-
The sturdiness of their the Tafilalt. Its northern and ing down into the Todra palm
fortifications make the ksour southern sides are bordered grove for a wonderful 12-km
here unusual. Their towers are by a lush palm grove at the (7.5-mile) hike along the
remarkably high and, when foot of arid hills, which contain network of shady paths.
tribal feuds were rife, they dozens of ksour and kasbahs. On the other side of the
protected the inhabitants With several silver mines in wadi are many semi-ruined
against the incursions of the the vicinity, Tinerhir is a wealthy ksour. The most interesting
Aït Atta, who came to pillage town known for its jewellery. and most easily reached are
their harvests. To the west stands a kasbah Aït Boujane and Asfalou.
The old fortified village of once owned by the Glaoui, but Further north, about 5 km
Goulmima, 2 km (1 mile) east (3 miles) before the start of
on the road to Erfoud, is worth the gorge, there is an alter-
the detour. The Goulmima ksar, native route to the palm grove
which exemplifies southern
Moroccan defensive architec-
Did You Know? via the Imarighen spring, the
“Spring of the Sacred Fish”. At
ture, is surrounded by walls 75 % of the Sahara’s El-Hart-n-Igouramene, south
set with two massive towers. population live in of Tinerhir, craftsmen produce
Cows and sheep are enclosed oases, which occupy bronze-coloured pottery.
within small corrals outside. A 2070 sq km (800 sq The road taking in El-Hart,
gate set at an angle opens miles) of the desert. Tadafalt and Agoudim offers
onto a second gate. On a small views of many ksour, some of
square within the walls stand which are still inhabited.
THE SOUTHERN AND EASTERN OASES
South of the Atlas mountains, the Sahara begins. However, far from
the barren dunescapes that one may expect, the valleys that lead yet
further south, namely the Drâa, Dadès, Todra and Ziz, are peppered
with lush date-palm oases; verdant havens where water is plentiful
and life thrives in abundance. These pockets of civilization in this
otherwise arid terrain follow the ancient trade routes that linked the
imperial cities of Marrakech and Fès to Timbuktu, Niger and beyond.
IRRIGATION IN THE OASES surroundings, oases are very fragile

The existence of the oases depends on ecological environments that survive
the presence of water, which is either thanks only to ceaseless human
supplied by rivers flowing down from the intervention. Many dams are built to
mountains or by an underground water control the flow of water in the wadis,
table. Water rises naturally at the foot of which, when they are in flood, can
dunes or is pumped by artesian wells devastate plantations within a few
along underground channels known as hours. Irrigation is produced by khettaras
khettaras, an ancient and ingenious and the water is either drawn from a
network with some covering considerable well or forced to the surface by gravity.
distances. Set in particularly hostile The exact amount of water needed for
each crop is provided by seguias, man-
made channels that criss-cross the oasis.
Clay plugs are sometimes used to divert
the water along particular routes.
Crops such as tomatoes, carrots and
lettuce, as well as fruit trees such as
fig and apricot, thrive in the shade
provided by the palm trees.
Clay plugs are used to direct

the flow of water to other
parts of the oasis.
Barley
The oasis town of Boumalne du

Dadès in the lush Todra Valley
Did You Know?

A single date palm tree
can provide 30 to 100 kg
(66 to 220 lb) of dates
per year.
292
ANIMALS OF THE OASIS
The common bulbul, rufous bush robin, house
bunting and doves are some of the more
familiar birds seen in the oases. Toads
frequent the banks of the watercourses,
1 geckos and lizards cling to stone walls and the
trunks of trees, and scorpions hide under
stones. During the night, jackals occasionally
approach places of human habitation. The
fennec, horned viper and herbivorous lizard
rarely venture beyond the dunes and rocks
where they were born.
2 1 Young family of
fennec foxes.
2 Venomous horned
viper, native to the
deserts of North Africa.
3 Herbivorous lizard,
also known as the
3 Moroccan rock lizard.
Well
Water is channelled Arid

as it flows from zone
the khettara.
Clay
Impervious
layer
Spring
Main canal (seguia)
Dam across the

river, or wadi
Animal-skin
container
Wild pears growing in an
oasis in Southern Morocco
293
Wadi Ziz flows south from

the High Atlas, carving its
way through the mountains
arid plains. The fortified

16
KSOUR IN villages of the Aït Idzerg tribe,
THE OASES Boumalne du Dadès as well as a few old forts of
The Ziz Valley is ksar the French Foreign Legion,
! D4 n Tizzarouine
country. The ksar (plural line the road.
Kasbah, Ouarzazate;
ksour) was developed The Tunnel de Foum-Zabel,
(0524) 88 24 85
as a stronghold against or Tunnel du Légionnaire, was
incursions from bandits This pleasant stopping place driven through the limestone
and nomadic tribes that is located at the edge of the rock here by the French
raided the oases when desert plateau and at the Foreign Legion in 1927, thus
the harvests had been beginning of the Dadès Gorge. opening a route to the south.
brought in. The design From the edge of the plateau The tunnel opens out onto the
of these fortified villa above the town, the view
ges is connected to this stretches over the Dadès
warlike past. The ksar, Oasis. At Tizzarouine Kasbah,
which usually overlooks where there are also fine
an oasis, originally con views, guides offer tours
sisted of a central alley and camping trips in the
with houses on each High Atlas and Jbel Sarhro.
side. Over time, it grew
to become a village with
a mosque, a medersa
and granaries. Built of 17
pisé and earth bricks, Ziz Gorge
every ksar bears the
stamp of its builders, ! E3 ⌂ 88 km (55 miles)
who each used their south of Midelt on road N13
own inticate patterns. Wadi Ziz, which springs near
Agoudal, in the heart of the
High Atlas, runs east then
obliquely south, level with the
village of Rich. It then carves
a gorge in the mountains,
irrigates the Tafilalt then
disappears into the Saharan
sands. South of Midelt (p271), Wadi Ziz irrigating the
beyond the Tizi-n-Talrhemt the thirsty palm trees
Pass, forests give way to of the Tafilalt oasis
294
Ziz Gorge, whose impressive The tunnel opens out onto the Ziz gorge,
red cliffs jut into the Atlas.
Two fine ksour, Ifri and
whose impressive red cliffs jut into the
Amzrouf, both surrounded Atlas. Two fine ksour, Ifri and Amzrouf,
by palm trees, stand here. both surrounded by palm trees, stand here.
The Hassan-Addakhil dam,
contained by a thick dyke of
red earth, demarcates the which runs underground for border, Er-Rachidia became
lower foothills of the Atlas. part of its course. The blue the main town in the province.
Built in 1970, it irrigates the spring waters flow from a cave Here the palm groves of the
Tafilalt and Ziz valleys and at the foot of a cliff into a pool Ziz and Tafilalt begin, and
provides power for Er-Rachidia. built by the French Foreign this town stands at the start of
Legion. The spring provides the road to the south, making
water for local villagers and a it a convenient stopping off
natural swimming pool for the point. Er-Rachidia, also an
18 \ - = camp site in the palm grove. administrative and military
Source Bleue de Meski The clifftop offers a view centre, was built by the French
of the oasis and the ruined in the early 20th century,
! E3 ⌂ 23 km (14 miles)
ksar of Meski. The road to when it was known as Ksar
south of Er-Rachidia on
Erfoud (p296) also offers fine es-Souk. It gained its present
road N13
views of the Ziz valley and name in 1979 in memory of
The spring, located 1 km the oases of Oulad Chaker Moulay Rachid, the first of
(0.6 miles) off the main road, and Aourfous. the Alaouites to overthrow
is a reappearance of Wadi Ziz, Saadian rule in 1666. Many
ksour here were abandoned
after 1960, when the Ziz broke
GREAT VIEW
19 its banks, causing serious
Meski and More Er-Rachidia floods and washing away land.
The clifftop at Source Although they are busy,
! D3 k @ From Erfoud,
Bleue de Meski offers a the town’s perfectly straight,
Midelt, Ouarzazate and
view of the oasis and gridlike streets hold scant
Figuig n Tourist office;
the ruined ksar below. appeal. A craft centre offers
(0535) 57 09 44
The road to Erfoud also locally made pottery, carved
offers fine views of the As a result of its strategic wooden objects and rush
Ziz Valley and of the location between northern baskets. Along the main
oases of Oulad Chaker and southern Morocco, and throughfare are numerous
and Aoufous. between the Atlantic seaboard shops, as well as restaurants
and Figuig and the Algerian and cafés.
295
20 21 SALT AND SLAVES
Erfoud Merzouga For centuries camel
! E4 @ From Fès, Er- ! E4 ⌂ 53 km (33 miles) caravans transported
Rachidia, Midelt, Rissani southeast of Erfoud precious items such as
and Tinejdad ivory, ostrich feathers
The small Saharan oasis of and gold across the
Before the development of Merzouga is famous for its Sahara. These were
the town began in 1930, the location at the foot of the traded for, among other
French had set up a military photogenic Erg Chebbi dunes. things, salt mined in
post here to watch over the At sunrise or dusk, the half- Morocco, which at one
Tafilalt Valley. The Berber light gives the sand a fascina- time was worth as
tribes put up a long, drawn- ting range of colours. much as gold. There
out resistance, and the valley Although they are nearer was also extensive
was one of the last parts of to Rissani, both Merzouga trade in human slaves.
southern Morocco to surrender. and the Erg Chebbi dunes are From the 10th to the
Erfoud’s checkerboard easier to reach from Erfoud. 19th century as many
layout is a vestige of its military A guide is not necessary, as 7,000 slaves were
past. This peaceful town, with except when high winds whip transported north
an extensive palm grove, is the up the sand. From Erfoud, wards into Morocco.
base for tours of the dunes of going in the direction of
the Erg Chebbi desert. From Taouz, the road degenerates
the top of the eastern borj, a into a track after 16 km (10 nestles in a stretch of greenery,
small bastion 3 km (2 miles) miles). Beyond the Auberge extending beyond Rissani.
to the southeast, the view Derkaoua, follow the line of The oasis was once a welcome
takes in a wide swathe of telegraph poles, and the stopping-place for caravans,
desert and palm groves. dunes come into view on the as they arrived exhausted
In October, the Erfoud souk left. At Merzouga, camel after weeks in the desert.
overflows with dates of every drivers offer one-hour to two- Today, the inhabitants of the
variety, and the three-day Date day tours. Dayet Srji, a small Tafilalt rely on it for their liveli-
Festival takes place, with folk lake west of the village, some- hood: the 800,000 date palms
dances and processions of times fills with water during that grow here are renowned
people in traditional costume. the winter, after sudden rain- for their fruit. Unfortunately,
Polished marble containing fall. It attracts hundreds of since the early 20th century
fossils is Erfoud’s other main pink flamingos, storks and the trees have suffered from
industry. The cutting workshop, other migratory birds. Bayoud palm sickness – caused
the Usine de Marmar, is open by a microscopic fungus – and
to visitors. The road is also the effects of drought.
bordered with many small The October date harvest in
craters – the tops of shafts 22 the palm grove is a spectacular
down to khettaras. Tafilalt Palm Grove sight. Owners climb to the top
of their trees, and, as the
! E4 ⌂ South of Erfoud on
Usine de Marmar grove resonates with the
road N13
! E4 ⌂ On road R702 to sound of machetes, bunches
Tinejdad # 8am–noon & Stretching out along the bends of dates crash to the ground
2–4pm Mon–Sat of Wadi Rheris and Wadi Ziz in large orange heaps (they
from Erfoud, the Tafilalt oasis turn brown as they ripen).
Camels striding across

the coppery sand dunes of
the Erg Chebbi desert
296
Symbols of happiness and
prosperity, dates figure in
many rituals and ceremonies.
23
Rissani
! E4 @ From Meknès,
Erfoud and Er-Rachidia
This small town on the edge

of the Sahara marks the end
of the metalled road and the
start of tracks into the desert.
To the east is the Hammada
du Guir, a stony desert notori
ous for its violent sandstorms.
Rissani, built close to the
ruins of Sijilmassa, was once
the capital of the Tafilalt. and the instability of the rival The main prayer hall
Sijilmassa is said to have tribes that regularly launched inside the Mausoleum
been founded in 757–8 as raids on the city led to its of Moulay Ali Cherif
an independent kingdom, destruction. The first town
becoming a major stopping had a pisé wall on stone
place on the transSaharan foundations pierced by eight from goat skins tanned with
caravan routes. Over the gates, and contained a palace, tamarisk bark are laid out
centuries, it became prosper elegant houses, public baths for sale.
ous from trade in gold, slaves, and many gardens. A few South of Rissani, a 20km
salt, weapons, ivory and vestiges of these emerge from (12mile) route marked by
spices, reaching its peak in the sand just west of Rissani. many ksour crosses the palm
the 13th and 14th centuries. The Rissani Souk is one of grove. After 2.5 km (1.5 miles)
However, religious dissent the most famous in the area. stands the Mausoleum of
Donkeys, mules, sheep and Moulay Ali Cherif, where the
goats are enclosed in corrals. father of Moulay erRachid,
Stalls are piled with shining founder of the Alaouite
Did You Know? pyramids of dates, as well as dynasty, is laid to rest. A
with vegetables and spices. courtyard leads to the burial
In 1927 Morocco sent
Beneath roofs made of palm chamber, to which non
11 date palms to the US,
matting and narrow pisé Muslims are not admitted.
from which every
alleyways, jewellery, daggers, Behind the mausoleum are
medjool date grown in
carpets, woven palmfibre the ruins of the 19thcentury
America originates.
baskets, pottery and fine Abbar Ksar. This former resi
local leather items made dence once housed exiled
Alaouite princes, the widows
of sultans and part of the
royal treasury.
About 2 km (1 mile) from
the mausoleum stands the
Oulad Abdelhalim Ksar, built
in 1900 for the elder brother
of Sultan Moulay Hassan. The
monumental entrance opens
onto a labyrinth of dilapidated
rooms. The route takes in
many other ksour, including
those of Assererhine, Irara,
Gaouz, and Tabassamt. The
ksar built in Tinrheras, set on
a promontory, also comes into
view. The road leading to the
Draa Valley via Tazzarine and
Tansikht starts from Rissani.
297
Tafraoute, in the beautiful valley of the Anti-Atlas
SOUTHERN
MOROCCO AND
WESTERN SAHARA
Six thousand years ago, hunters forced northwards
by the desertification of the Sahara moved into
southwestern Morocco, as shown by the thousands
of rock engravings that have been discovered in
the Anti-Atlas. The Arab conquest in the 7th
century inaugurated the age of the independent
kingdoms. An important point for trans-Saharan
trade between Morocco and Timbuktu, the Atlantic
coast was coveted from the 15th century by the
Portuguese and the Spaniards, who eventually
colonized it in the late 19th century, re-naming it
Río de Oro (Golden River). When Spain withdrew
from western Sahara in 1975, King Hassan II
initiated the Green March, during which 350,000
civilians reasserted Morocco’s claim to the region.
The great Souss plain, east of Agadir, lies at the
heart of this isolated region. The commercially
grown fruit and vegetables here are irrigated by
the underground waters of Wadi Souss, and the
surrounding argan trees provide food for herds
of black goats. To the south, the Anti-Atlas is the
final mountainous barrier before the Sahara. Its
almost surreal geological folds, shaped by erosion,
alternate with verdant oases. Stone-built villages,
often with an agadir (fortified granary), cluster
along wadis or at the foot of mountains. Further
south, wide deserted beaches are cut off by
lagoons that attract thousands of migratory birds.
299
SOUTHERN MOROCCO
AND WESTERN SAHARA
Must Sees 7 Tiznit
1 Agadir 8 Tafraoute
A
2 Sidi Ifni 9 Tan Tan and Tan Tan Plage
0 Guelmim
Experience More
q Tarfaya
3 Taroudannt
w Laayoune
4 Igherm to Tata
5 Akka S
NA
6 Souss Massa National Park
S
A
Mirle Mirle
T
SIDI IFNISIDI IFNI
A t l aA nt lt ai cn t i c
O c e Oa cn e a n
GUELMIM
GUELMIM
Plage Plage
Blanche Aït Bekkou
El Abiar El Abiar
Blanche Aït Bekko
El OuatiaEl Ouatia
TAN TAN
(Tan Tan Plage)
(Tan Tan Plage)
TAN TAN
ine uin
alou a l o Ao
Ta s k l Ta s k To
el e
Djeb Dje b
Wa d i D r aWaa d i Draa
Dar-Chebika
Dar-Chebika
Reser ve Res er ve
TARFAYA
TARFAYA Naturelle Naturelle Sidi Sidi M'sied M'sied
Naila Naila AkhfennirAkhfennir
Abetteh Abetteh
As-Sakn As-Sakn
El Hagounia
El Hagounia
Daoura Daoura
LAAYOUNE
LAAYOUNE
Al Gada Al Gada
Laâyoune Airport
Laâyoune Airport
Esmara Esmara
W E SWTES R TNE R N
S A H SAARHA A R A
Boucraa Boucraa
M A UMRAI TUARNI TI A N I A
HIGH ATLAS
HIGH ATLAS
SOUTHERN
SOUTHERN p260 p260 Ouarzazate
Ouarzazate
ATLANTIC COASTCOAST
ATLANTIC
p122 p122
Oulad Berhil
Oulad Berhil AoulouzaAoulouza OUARZAZATE AND AND
OUARZAZATE
THE SOUTHERN
THE SOUTHERN
TaliouineTaliouine
TAROUDANNT
TAROUDANNT OASESOASES
AGADIRAGADIR p276 p276
i So us di So us
Wad Wa
Agadir Agadir
Airport Airport Tioute Tioute
Biougra Biougra
InchadènInchadèn Igrherm Igrherm
Aït-Baha Aït-Baha
SOUSS MASSA
SOUSS MASSA a s l aTizi-Touzlimt
s Tizi-Touzlimt
Foum Foum
tl
Zguid Zguid
ATIONAL PARK PARK
NATIONAL
A t Pass Pass
Sidi MoussaSidi Moussa

Tioulit Tioulit A Tissint Tissint
Jbel Lekst Jbel Lekst
Souk-Khemis-d’Issafen
Souk-Khemis-d’Issafen
Aglou Aglou
2,359 m 2,359 m
Assaka Assaka
(7,740 ) (7,740 ) IGRHERMIGRHERM
TO TATATO TATA
Tata Tata
TAFRAOUTE
ti i TAFRAOUTE
TIZNIT TIZNIT
t
n n
Jbel Tililt Jbel Tililt
Bou-Zarif Bou-Zarif
A A
Ida Ida 1,739 m 1,739 m
Oussemlal (5,705 ) (5,705 )
Oussemlal
Souk-Tlata-
Souk-Tlata-
des-Akhasass
des-Akhasass
Oua-BelliOua-Belli AKKA AKKA
Bou-Izakarn
Bou-Izakarn a aa
ra D Dr
Aït-Herbil Aït-Herbil
d i d i
Wa Wa
Foum-el-Hassan
Foum-el-Hassan
ou SOUTHERN MOROCCO
SOUTHERN MOROCCO
Targoumait
Targoumait
AND WESTERN SAHARA SAHARA
AND WESTERN
Assa Assa
n e
ouÏnet- AouÏnet- A L G AE LR GI AE R I A
orkoz Torkoz
Zag Zag
Further SouthSouth
Further Casablanca
Casablanca
Safa Safa
Marrakech
Marrakech
EssaouiraEssaouira
Area of main
Areamap
of main map
Al MahbesAl Mahbes
Agadir Agadir
Tiznit
Tiznit
Akka Akka
GuelmimGuelmim
Sidi Sidi
AkhfennirAkhfennir
Tan Tan Tan Tan
ALGERIA
ALGERIA
LaayouneLaayoune Tindouf Tindouf
Al Al
Laâyoune Laâyoune
Mahbas
Airport Airport Mahbas
Cape Bojador
Cape Bojador
Guelta Guelta
ZemmourZemmour
Dakhla Dakhla
Dakhla Dakhla
Airport Airport MA U R MA
I TAUNRIAITAN IA
0 km 0250
km 250 N N
0 kilometres 50
0 kilometres 50 N N
The ruined hilltop kasbah
overlooks sandy Agadir
beach at sunset
AGADIR
! B4 k Agadir El-Massira @ From Casablanca , Essaouira,
Did You Know?
In 1911 Agadir was
the object of a dispute
Marrakech & Tiznit n Immeuble Ignouan, Boulevard between France and
Mohammed V; (0528) 84 63 77 Germany due to its
strategic location.
Agadir, the regional capital of the South beyond the
Atlas, draws thousands of visitors a year. Its gentle
climate, sheltered beach and many hotels make it
Morocco’s second tourist city after Marrakech. Having superbly displayed alongside
information on how the
been completely rebuilt in the 1960s after the terrible jewellery was made.
earthquake that destroyed the city, its wide-open Just next door on Boulevard
spaces and modernity appeal to many holiday-makers. 20 Aout is an open air theatre,
where Concerts, shows and
music festivals take place
1 2" throughout the year.
Nouveau Talborj Musée Municipal du
Agadir’s modern centre, the Patrimoine Amazighe
Nouveau Talborj, was built
south of the old city, which
⌂ Avenue Hassan II, 3
passage Ait Souss § (0528)
was completely destroyed in Mémoire d’Agadir
82 16 32 # 9:30am– 5:30pm
the earthquake of 1960. The
Mon–Sat ⌂ Avenue du Président
main streets of the city centre
Kennedy
run parallel to the beach. This museum was opened on
Pedestrian areas, lined with 29 February 2000, on the day This small museum is
restaurants, shops and crafts of the commemoration of the dedicated to the 1960
outlets are concentrated reconstruction of Agadir, earthquake. Although it
around Boulevard Hassan II 40 years after the violent only had a magnitude of
and Avenue du Prince Moulay earthquake that destroyed 5.8, (about a third of the
Abdallah. There are some the city. The museum exhibits city’s population), between
fine modern buildings, everyday objects derived 12,000 and 15,000 people,
including the town hall and from the peoples of the Souss were killed and around
the stately law courts. The plains and the pre-Saharan 35,000 people were left
city’s bright white buildings regions. Among the exhibits homeless. The museum
are interspersed by many is a rich collection of magni- documents the disaster
splendid gardens. ficent Berber jewellery, in photographs.
302
Must See
4 6-= 8
Agadir Beach Souk El-Had Polizzi Medina
South of the city, the
⌂ Rue 2 Mars # 6am– ⌂ Ben-Sergaou 10 km
sheltered beach, in a bay with
8:30pm Tue–Sun (6 miles) south of Agadir
9 km (6 miles) of fine sand, is
§ (0528) 28 02 53 # 9am–
Agadir’s main attraction, A short walk southwest of the
6pm daily
offering some of the safest city centre, Agadir’s “Sunday
swimming off Morocco’s Souk” is a modern, walled This medina was created
Atlantic coast. However, market of around 6,000 stalls. by Coco Polizzi, an Italian
although the city enjoys 300 The array of goods on offer architect, who used traditional
day of sunshine a year, it is is vast, from fresh fruit and Moroccan building methods.
often shrouded in mist in the vegetables to jewellery, home Houses, restaurants and
morning. Sailboards, jet-skis furnishings, and handicrafts. local craft workshops are
and water scooters can be Good buys here include plentiful here.
hired on the beach, and rides, locally produced argan oil
on horses or camels, are also and saffron from the nearby
on offer. Many cafés and region of Taliouine.
restaurants line the beach.
7
5 Old Kasbah
Vallée des Oiseaux At an altitude of 236 m
(775 ft), the hilltop ruins of
⌂ Avenue Hassan II
the kasbah, within restored
# 9am–noon & 3–6pm
ramparts, offer a stunning
Tue–Sun
view of Agadir and the bay.
This open space in the heart The kasbah was built in 1540
of the city, laid out on a by Mohammed ech-Cheikh,
narrow strip of greenery, to keep the Portuguese
contains aviaries with a fortress under surveillance.
multitude of exotic birds. A It was restored in 1752
small zoo features mouflons by Moulay Abdallah and
(wild mountain sheep) and accommodated a garrison The Morrocan style
macaques. There is also a play of renegade Christians and Polizzi Medina lies just
area for children. Turkish mercenaries. outside Agadir
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Open-Air
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Musée Municipal
Agadir Beach
AO
Theatre du Patrimoine
Souk El-Had
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Amazighe
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700 m (770 yds)

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0 metres 750 N
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4.5 km (3 miles)
S
2
SIDI IFNI
! A5 @ From Tiznit n ONMT Agadir; www.visitmorocco.com
From Tiznit, a scenic minor road leads to the Atlantic coast, which it follows until
Sidi Ifni, a popular surf destination. Formerly a Spanish coastal enclave, the town
has maintained an Iberian feel. It sits on the crest of a rocky plateau overlooking
the ocean, and is buffeted by strong winds and often shrouded in sea mist.
Sidi Ifni’s legacy of Spanish colonial rule is still tangible in

many ways. At the town centre is Place Hassan II, previously
named Plaza de España. On its north side are the former
EAT
Spanish consulate and a sandcastle-like church, now the law
courts. Facing them is the royal palace and town hall.
Beach Life Nomad

The beach is long, wide and somewhat wild compared to the This laidback eatery
sheltered city beach of nearby Agadir. It has a pleasant board- serves grilled meats and
walk lined on the landward side by picturesque blue-and-white fresh seafood, as well as
houses. At the northern end there is a small shrine, while to the a small selection of beer
south is the fishing port, and wine. Plenty of
where a lively fish market choice for vegetarians.
takes place. Ifni Surf ⌂ 5 Ave Moulay Youssef
offers surf lessons and § (0662) 17 33 08
board hire, as well as # Noon–3pm Tue–Thu,
kayaking, paragliding 6–11pm Sat & Sun
and desert excursions. 
About 6 km (4 miles)
north of Sidi Ifni is
the beautiful Legzira Municipal Market
Beach, best known for As well as selling fresh
its impressive natural fruit and vegetables,
rock archways. this market has a court-
yard filled with stalls of
Ifni Surf freshly grilled seafood,
⌂ 47 Avenue Moulay straight from the boat.
Youssef ∑ ifnisurf.com ⌂ Ave Mohammed V &
Ave Hassan
# 10am–10pm

Blue-and-white houses
line the streets of this
former Spanish enclave
WATERSPORTS AROUND SIDI IFNI

Sidi Ifni may be known for its laidback
atmosphere and slow pace of life, but
visitors looking for a hit of adrenaline
should head for the beach. Strong Atlantic
winds, broad sandy bays and a rocky
coastline make Sidi Ifni, and nearby
beaches at Legzira and Mirleft, excellent
places for surfing and body boarding,
among other watersports. The town is
home to several surf camps, offering
equipment rental and tuition for all levels.
304
Must See
1969
The year the Spanish
returned the town of
Sidi Ifni back to
Morocco.
Beautiful natural arches

on Legzira Beach, 6 km
(4 miles) from Sidi Ifni
305
EXPERIENCE MORE
Ismaïl. The latter regained
3 control of the region by
Taroudannt massacring the inhabitants.
! B4 ⌂ 80 km (50 miles)
Taroudannt is a generally
peaceful town, except during STAY
EXPERIENCE Southern Morocco and Western Sahara
east of Agadir @ From

the annual olive harvest, when
Casablanca, Agadir, Dar el-Hossoun
it is enlivened by itinerant
Marrakech and Ouarzazate An eco-friendly,
pickers. Its two main squares
Enclosed within red-ochre are Place Assarag and Place traditionally styled
ramparts and encircled by Talmoklate, where horse-drawn guesthouse and
orchards, orange groves and carriages can be hired for a restaurant, built by
olive trees, Taroudannt has all tour of the ramparts. Set with local artisans in gardens
the appeal of an old Moroccan bastions and pierced by five containing over 900
varieties of plants.
fortified town. It was occupied gates, they are in a remark-
by the Almoravids in 1056 and ably good state of preserva- ! B4 ⌂ Taroudannt
in the 16th century became the tion, a part of them dating ∑ alhossoun.com
capital of the Saadians, who from the 18th century. 
used it as a base from which The souks, between the two
to attack the Portuguese in squares, are the town’s main
Agadir. Although the Saadians attraction. The daily Berber
eventually chose Marrakech market sells spices, vegetables,
as their capital, they made clothing, household goods, small tannery, which is open
Taroudannt wealthy through pottery and other items. In to visitors. Its shop sells goat-
the riches of the Souss plain, the Arab souk the emphasis skin and camel-hide sandals,
which included sugarcane, is on handicrafts: terracotta, lambskin rugs, soft leather
cotton, rice and indigo. wrought iron, brass and copper, bags, belts and slippers.
Under the Alaouites, the pottery, leather goods, carpets The peaks of the western
town resisted royal control, and Berber jewellery can be High Atlas – particularly Jbel
forming an alliance with seen. Carvings in chalky white Aoulime – can be reached via
Ahmed Ibn Mahrez, the stone are a local speciality. road 7020, north of the town.
dissident nephew of Moulay Outside the ramparts is a The imposing Tioute kasbah
306
dominates the palm grove
about 37 km (23 miles) south
east of town. This was the loca
tion for the 1954 film Ali Baba
and the Forty Thieves. A restau
rant adjacent to the kasbah
rather spoils the site. On the
banks of Wadi Souss, which
attracts many migratory birds,
stands the older Freija kasbah,
now uninhabited.
Between Taroudannt and
Ouarzazate, the road (N10)
passes through a landscape
of wild beauty. Plains covered
with argan trees give way to
the volcanic massif of Jbel
Siroua, which bristles with
peaks and where soft rocky
folds alternate with plateaux.
Taliouine, a town between
two mountain chains, has a
stately kasbah once owned
by the Glaoui. Though
dilapidated, it is still inhabited. A woman photographing rock formations
The town is at the centre of near Oua-Belli, where many prehistoric
the world’s biggest saffron engravings can be found
growing area. In Tazenakht, 85
km (53 miles) east of Taliouine,
beneath Jbel Siroua, carpets renowned for their dagger
with an orange weft are woven and gunmaking. The houses 5
by the Ouaouzguite tribe. here are built of pink stone, Akka
their windows outlined in blue.
! B5 ⌂ 62 km (39 miles)
Women dressed in black and
southwest of Tata on
wearing coloured headbands
4 fetch water in tall copper jars
road N12
Igherm to Tata (situle), which they carry on The Akka palm grove lies
their heads. north of the village, while a
! B4 ⌂ Road N10 east
Between Igherm and Tata dozen ksour are interspersed
from Taroudannt,
the road crosses a rugged among the date palms and fig
then road R109 to Tata
desert plain, with mountains trees. On a hill is Tagadirt, a
@ Taroudannt, Tiznit,
of folded strata in hues of mellah, now in ruins, where the
Agadir and Bouizarkane
ochre, yellow and violet. rabbiadventurer Mardochée
A relatively new road (built in The TizinTouzlimt Pass, at Abi Serour – who accompanied
1988), the N10 crosses the 1,692 m (5,553 ft), is followed the French ascetic Charles
AntiAtlas, passing through by a succession of oases. In de Foucauld on his peregri
some remarkable landscapes. the SoukKhemisd’Issafen nations – was born in 1883.
Between Taroudannt and palm grove, women dressed The AïtRahhal springs in
Igherm, argan fields alternate in indigo can be seen walking the palm grove supply the
with drystone villages over around the wellwatered oasis. There is also a strange
looking terraced plantations. gardens, except when the brickbuilt minaret dating from
Igherm, 94 km (58 miles) Thursday souk is on. Some 30 the Almohad period.
southeast of Taroudannt, is a ksour stand in the great Tata Many rock engravings can
large mountain village at an palm grove, where Berber and be seen near the village of Oua
altitude of 1,800 m (5,908 ft). Arabic are spoken. Belli, southwest of Akka on
The village is the base of the Crossing Wadi Tata, which road N12 to Bouizarkane, and
Ida Oukensous tribe, who are irrigates the grove, the road at FoumelHassan, 90 km
leads to AgadirLehne, where (56 miles) further on the same
a stone koubba stands below road. You will need to hire a
a spring. Some 4 km (2.5 miles) guide (details from CaféHôtel
Local fruit and vegetables further on are the Messalite Tamdoult in Akka). There are
piled up at the daily Berber caves, which are inhabited also many igherm (granaries),
souk in Taroudannt sporadically by shepherds. some dug into the cliff face.
307
Opposed to the establishment
of the Protectorate in Morocco,
El-Hiba conquered the Souss
by rallying the tribes of the
Anti-Atlas and the Tuareg to
his cause. He launched an
attack on Marrakech, where he
was repulsed by French troops.
It is possible to walk round
the 5-km (3-mile) pink pisé

ramparts that encircle the
town. The méchouar, a parade
ground that functioned as the
pasha’s reception courtyard, is
lined with arcades beneath
which are cafés and shops.
Renowned craftsmen still
work with silver here, as the
Jews once did, producing
The edge of the Souss Massa National chunky Berber jewellery and
Park meeting the Atlantic Ocean sabres with inlaid handles.
Sidi Moussa Aglou, 15 km
(9 miles) northwest of Tiznit,
Morocco is home to half the is a fine beach used by surfers.
6 world’s population of this Caves in the cliffs are used by
Souss Massa curious pink-headed bird. local fishermen.
National Park Only certain areas of the
park are open to the public.
! B4 ⌂ 65 km (40 miles)
Visitors should approach
south of Agadir on road N1;
the wadi from Sidi Rbat. The 8
50 km (31 miles) north of
best time to see the birds is Tafraoute
Tiznit on road N1
early in the morning, from
! B5 ⌂ 143 km (89 miles)
The Souss Massa National March to April and October
southeast of Agadir Road
Park extends along the banks to November.
N1 from Agadir then
of Wadi Massa, which, en route
road R105; road R104
to the Atlantic, irrigates a large
from Tiznit @ Tiznit and
palm grove. This nature reserve,
where river and sea water meet, 7 Agadir, or grands taxis
n ONMT Agadir
the tides ebb and flow, and Tiznit
winter temperatures are mild, At an altitude of 1,200 m
! B5 ⌂ 91 km (57 miles)
attracts hundreds of species (3,938 ft), Tafraoute stands in
south of Agadir on road N1
of migratory birds. the heart of a stunning valley
@ From Agadir, Safi,
The reed beds on the banks of the Anti-Atlas. A cirque of
Guelmim and Tafraoute
of the wadi are inhabited by
n ONMT Agadir
greater flamingos from the
Camargue, in southern France, Located slightly inland from
and from Spain, as well as many the coast, Tiznit is a small town
other species. The primary where the proximity of both
purpose of the park was to the Atlantic and the desert can
preserve the bald ibis, a species be felt. In 1881, Sultan Moulay
threatened with extinction. Hassan settled here in order
to exert greater control over
the Berber tribes of the Souss.
The town came to fame in
Did You Know? 1912, when El-Hiba, a populist
rebel leader, was proclaimed
The vertical poles sultan of Tiznit in the mosque.
on the walls of Tiznit’s
Grand Mosque are to
help departed souls
enter paradise. Jean Vérame’s painted rocks
rising out of the sparse, lunar
landscape near Tafraoute
308
granite, whose colours change
at the end of the day from SAFFRON
ochre to pink, surrounds the Saffron (Crocus sativus) is a bulbed herbaceous plant that
town. The palm groves here belongs to the iris family and grows at altitudes of 1,200
are lush, and during the brief to 2,000 m (4,000 to 6,600 ft). Harvesting takes place
period of their flowering (two before sunrise and goes on for 15 to 20 days. It is a delicate
weeks in February) the almond process, involving the separation of the red stigmas that
trees are covered with clouds contain the colourant from the plant. After drying, some
of pink and white blossom. 100,000 flowers produce 1 kg (2.2 lb) of saffron, and just
The square dry-stone 1 gram is enough to colour 7 litres (12 pints) of liquid.
houses consist of a central Saffron is used in food, as a dye for carpets and pottery,
courtyard and a tower. They and for dyeing hair and hands. It is also a medicinal plant
are rendered with pastel pink that is thought to aid digestion and calm toothache.
plaster, and their windows are
outlined with white limewash.
Tafraoute is the territory of
the Ameln, the best known of
the six tribes of the Anti-Atlas.
They are renowned for their
acumen as traders. As spice
merchants, they have spread
throughout Morocco and also
abroad. Limited local resources
have forced them to leave their
homeland. However, as soon
as they can, the émigrés return
to build comfortable houses.
Tafraoute is also a centre
for the manufacture of round- orchards and with olive and village of Tioulit, looking down
toed slippers, in natural, red, almond trees. It is dotted with into the valley. About 3 km
yellow or embroidered leather. 26 Berber villages perching (2 miles) south of Tafraoute,
Jean Vérame’s painted rocks on the mountainside, above a cluster of huge, strangely
are found 3 km (2 miles) north which runs a precipitous shaped rocks known as
of Tafraoute. These smooth, mountain chain culminating Napoleon’s Hat overlooks the
rounded rocks, painted by the in Jbel Lekst. The highest village of Agard Oudad. A one-
Belgian artist in 1984, rise chao- village, Taghdichte, is the day detour from Tafraoute
tically from a lunar landscape. starting point for the ascent leads to the Afella Ighir Oasis.
Although their colours – red, of Jbel Lekst. Laid out along the wadi, it is
purple and blue – have faded, North of Tafraoute, on the filled with tiny gardens, palm
the effect is still surreal. road to Agadir, is the igherm trees and almond trees. The
About 4 km (2.5 miles) (communal granary) of Ida ou road becomes a rough track,
further north is the fertile Gnidif, on the top of a hill. A and you will need a four-wheel
Ameln Valley, carpeted with little further on is the fortified drive to continue the journey.
309
The road from Guelmim is

9 good, but police checks are HIDDEN GEM
Tan Tan and frequent since the region Abaynou
Tan Tan Plage remains a military zone. Hot Springs
The desert town of Tan Tan Located 14 km (9 miles)
! A5 ⌂ 125 km (78 miles)
has a certain raffish charm, to the north of Guelmim
southwest of Guelmim
with everything from shops are the Abaynou hot
on road N1 ~ @ Agadir,
and mosques to the petits taxis springs, which have
Tarfaya and Laayoune
painted in blue or mustard. In pools for both men
The province of Tan Tan is the medina, Saharan-style and women.
sparsely populated by pastoral bric-a-brac is for sale and
nomads and fishermen. there is a colourful Sunday
souk. A moussem held in May
or June, honouring local resis- 10
tance hero Sheikh Ma el-Ainin, Guelmim
is the occasion of a huge camel
! A5 ⌂ 56 km (35 miles)
market. At night, in tribal tents,
south of Sidi Ifni n (0528)
women dance the guedra – a
87 29 11 @ From Agadir,
joyful blessing ritual particular
Marrakech, Laayoune and
to Southern Morocco. The word
Tan Tan, or grands taxis
guedra, Arabic for “pot”, refers
to the makeshift drum used in Also known as Goulimine, and
the ritual. sometimes the “Gateway to
On the coast, 25 km (15 the Desert”, this small settle-
miles) away, is Tan Tan Plage, ment of red houses with blue
where some low-key tourism shutters was an important
development has begun. centre on the caravan route
Road R101 leads across the from the 11th to the 19th
desert to Smara, about 245 km centuries. Today, it is known
(152 miles) south of Tan Tan. chiefly for its camel souk.
Today no more than a garrison The vast Plage Blanche
base, this legendary town put (White Beach), some 60 km
up fierce resistance to the (37 miles) west of Guelmim,
expansion of French rule, with can be reached along tracks.
Fresh oranges for the town’s imam calling for The beautiful Aït Bekkou Oasis,
sale at the Sunday a holy war (jihad) against 17 km (11 miles) to the south-
souk in Guelmim French colonialism in 1903. east, is the largest in the area.
310
Flamingos and storks flocking
to the Dait Um Saad lake in the
desert outside Laayoune
q The desert town of Tan Tan has a certain

Tarfaya raffish charm, with everything from
shops and mosques to the petits taxis
⌂ 235 km (146 miles) south
of Tan Tan @ From Tan Tan
painted in blue or mustard.
or grands taxis
The spectacular route between relinquished the territory in the south, stands on the tip
Tan Tan and Tarfaya follows 1975 (p69), the town has reaped of an attractive peninsula.
the coastline, where cliffs give the benefits of ongoing invest- The bay is one of the most
way to dunes of white sand. ment and modernization. beautiful places in the country
An expanding fishing port, On the outskirts of the city and is an internationally
Tarfaya was a stop on the to the north, a large periodic renowned spot for kite surfing.
Service Aéropostale, the lake known as Dait Um Saad Dakhla is the last town before
French airmail service, in the provides a habitat for a great the border with Mauritania,
1920s and 1930s. There is a many migratory birds, such as some 350 km (217 miles)
statue of airman Saint-Exupéry, flamingos and storks, in an away. Seek official advice
who left vivid descriptions of otherwise barren environment. before travelling to the
flying over this desolate region Dakhla, 540 km (335 km) to border region.
in terrible sandstorms. It was
also the rallying point for the
Green March of 1975. DISPUTED REGION, WESTERN SAHARA
Western Sahara was colonised by Spain in 1884. When
Spain withdrew in 1975, Morocco annexed the territory
w by staging the “Green March”, a peaceful procession of
350,000 Moroccans into the region. The 570,000 native
Laayoune Sahrawis formed the Polisario Front, who launched a
⌂ 117 km (73 miles) south guerrilla struggle against the Moroccan occupation. The
of Tarfaya k & @ From conflict lasted until a UN-brokered ceasefire in 1991, but it
Agadir, Dakhla and Tan Tan continues to flare up, most recently in 2011. At the present
n Avenue de l’Islam; (0528) time, most of Western Sahara remains under the control of
89 16 94 the Moroccan government and is known as the Southern
Provinces. About 20 per cent of Western Sahara is control-
A large oasis on Wadi Sagia led by the Sahrawi Arab Democratic Republic, but this has
el-Hamra, Laayoune is today limited international recognition. The issue of a possible
the economic capital of the Sahrawi state is a key issue in ongoing peace talks.
Saharan provinces. Since Spain
311
Children on a local bus, Meknès
NEED TO KNOW
Before You Go .............................................. 314
Getting Around ............................................ 316
Practical Information ...............................320

BEFORE
YOU GO
NEED TO KNOW Before You Go
Forward planning is essential to any successful trip. Be prepared for all

eventualities by considering the following points before you travel.
AT A GLANCE Passports and Visas

For tourist visits of up to three months, UK
CURRENCY
Dirham
and most EU nationals, and citizens of the US,
Canada, Australia and New Zealand do not need
Dh a visa to enter the country. Your passport must
be valid for at least six months from your date
of entry. Consult your nearest British embassy
or check the UK Government website for up-
AVERAGE DAILY SPEND to-date visa information specific to your
home country.
UK Government
∑ gov.uk
SAVE SPEND SPLURGE
600Dh 1,1200Dh 1,800Dh Travel Safety Advice
Travel in Morocco is generally safe, although
most official sources warn against travel in
certain parts of the Western Sahara. Visitors can
get up-to-date travel safety information from
BOTTLED COFFEE BEER DINNER
WATER FOR TWO the UK Foreign and Commonwealth Office, the
8Dh 15Dh 40Dh 200Dh US State Department, and the Department of
Foreign Affairs and Trade in Australia.
Australia
∑ smartraveller.gov.au
ESSENTIAL PHRASES
UK
Hello As-salaam aleikum ∑ gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice
US
∑ travel.state.gov
Goodbye B’salaama
Customs Information
Please Minfadlak/minfadlik
An individual is permitted to bring the following
Thank you Shukran into Morocco for personal use:
Tobacco products 200 cigarettes, 100 cigarillos,
Do you speak 50 cigars or 400 grams of tobacco.
Itkelim Ingleezi?
English Alcohol 1 litre of spirits and 1 litre of wine.
I don’t Perfume 150ml of perfume and 250ml of eau
Mafayimtish de toilette.
understand
Insurance
ELECTRICITY
SUPPLY It is wise to take out an insurance policy covering
Power sockets are theft, loss of belongings, cancellation and
type C and E, fitting delays. Morocco does not have any reciprocal
two-pronged plugs. health care agreements with other countries,
The standard voltage so taking out comprehensive medical insurance
is 220 volts. is recommended.
314
Dh
Vaccinations offers information and advice on travel in

Morocco for those with specific needs.
There are no required vaccinations for Disabled Tourist Guide
Morocco, although some health organisations ∑ disabled-tourist-guide.com
recommend inoculations against hepatitis A
and typhoid, which can both be contracted in Language
Morocco through contaminated food or water.
There are two official languages in Morocco –
Money Arabic and Tamazight (Berber). The version
of Arabic spoken is known as Darija, which is
Debit cards and credit cards such as Visa and a dialect of standard Arabic. Most educated
MasterCard are accepted in most shops and Moroccans also speak French. Signs in the
restaurants. American Express is less widely country are in Arabic and French. Some also
accepted. Be aware that credit cards often speak Spanish, especially in the north, in the
attract a surcharge of 5 per cent from Moroccan areas that were once colonized by Spain.
businesses. ATMs are widely available in towns Many Moroccans, particularly those working
and cities, although most will issue no more in tourism, will also speak some English.
than 2,000Dh at a time. It is always worth
carrying some cash, as many smaller businesses Closures
and markets, especially in more remote areas,
still accept cash only. If you’re travelling in out- Fridays Some businesses close on the Muslim
of-the-way places, make sure you have enough holy day, particularly in the souks and
cash to last until you get to a decent-sized town. traditional parts of town.
Tipping is an ingrained part of Moroccan Saturdays The official working week is Monday–
society. Almost any service rendered will warrant Friday, and many business only open for a half
a tip, known as baksheesh. Keep a stash of small day on Saturday.
denomination notes for this purpose. Sundays All public businesses and banks are
closed, as are many shops.
Booking Accommodation Public holidays Schools and public services are
closed for the day; shops, museums and
Morocco offers a huge variety of accommodation, attractions either close early or for the day.
from luxury five star hotels to budget hostels. All
price ranges are catered for. Lodgings can fill up
quickly in popular destinations such as Marrakech PUBLIC HOLIDAYS
and Agadir, and prices are higher at peak times
such as Easter, summer and Christmas. Make sure New Year's Day 1 Jan
that your chosen accommodation has air Labour Day 1 May
conditioning if you are visiting between May and Ramadan begins 6 May (2019)
October, and heating in January and February. 24 Apr (2020)
Campsites can be found in most towns and Eid al-Fitr 5 Jun (2019)
cities, and along the coast. 24 May (2020)
Feast of the Throne 30 Jul
Travellers with Specific Needs Eid al-Adha 12 Aug (2019)
31 Jul (2020)
Outside of the five-star hotels and some of the Revolution Day 20 Aug
more modern museums, not much in Morocco is
Youth Day 21 Aug
wheelchair-accessible. In the medinas, roads are
Islamic New Year 1 Sep (2019)
often rutted and crowded. Staircases often do
20 Aug (2020)
not have bannisters. On the plus side, Moroccans
Green March Day 6 Nov
are extremely accommodating and resourceful,
and do their best to make things as easy as Independence Day 18 Nov
possible. The Disabled Tourist Guide website
315
GETTING
AROUND
NEED TO KNOW Getting Around
Long-distance trains and buses connect the major towns and cities. To get
away from the main highways consider hiring a car, or even a car and driver.
AT A GLANCE
Arriving by Air
The busiest airports in Morocco with the most
TRAVEL COSTS international flights are Mohammed V Airport
MARRAKECH TO ESSAOUIRA in Casablanca, Marrakech Menara Airport and
Agadir al Massia Airport, although Agadir
80Dh mainly caters for package tourists. There are

smaller airports at Rabat, Fès and Tangier,
among other places, but they receive fewer
Single Bus Journey
direct international flights and flying into
them from overseas is likely to involve a
CASABLANCA TO MARRAKECH connection at Casablanca.
95Dh Domestic Air Travel

Single Train Ticket The national carrier Royal Air Maroc is the main
domestic airline. It serves a multitude of airports
MARRAKECH TO OUARZAZATE including Agadir, Beni Mellal, Dakhla, Essaouira,
Fès, Guelmim, Al-Hoceima, Laayoune, Nador,
100Dh Ouarzazate, Oujda, Rabat, Er-Rachidia, Tangier,

Tan Tan, Tetouan and Zagora. Internal flights are
expensive compared to the train or bus and may
Place in a Shared Taxi
not always be that much quicker as everything
is routed through the hub of Casablanca. For
TOP TIP comparison, a one-way flight from Marrakech
Avoid on-the-spot fines – be sure to stamp to Fès will cost around £90 and take three hours,
your ticket to validate your journey. while a first-class ticket on the train costs around
£26 and the journey takes eight hours.
Royal Air Maroc
SPEED LIMIT ∑ royalairmaroc.com
AUTOROUTES NATIONAL ROADS Train Travel
120 100
The train network in Morocco is not extensive
but the service is excellent, benefitting from
km/h km/h
substantial investment. A single line running
(75 mph) (62 mph) approximately north–south connects Tangier
and Marrakech via Rabat and Casablanca, with
an east–west link running via Meknès and Fès to
Oujda on the border with Algeria. Fast, modern,
URBAN AREAS air-conditioned trains rapides climatisés are
operated by the Office Nationale des Chemins
de Fer Maroccains (ONCF). Trains are frequent,
60km/h
comfortable, generally run on time and are
cheap. In 2019, a new high-speed TGV is due to
(37mph) start running between Casablanca and Tangier
that will more than halve the current four hours
and 45-minute journey time. First- and second-
316
GETTING TO AND FROM THE AIRPORT
Airport Distance to city Taxi fare Public Transport Journey time Price
Casablanca 16 miles (25 km) 200–300Dh CTM Bus 45 mins 20Dh
Marrakech 4 miles (6 km) 70Dh Bus No.19 15 mins 30Dh
Agadir 13 miles (21 km) 250Dh Bus No.22 40 mins 30Dh
RAIL JOURNEY PLANNER

Tangier
Plotting the main routes by
journey time, this map is a
rough guide to driving
Rabat Fès
between Morocco’s main
towns and cities. The times Casablanca
given reflect the fastest and Chefchaouen
most direct routes.
Marrakech
Merzouga
Essaouira
Direct road
routes Ouarzazate
Agadir Mhamid
Agadir to Marrakech 3 hrs
Casablanca to Marrakech 3 hrs
Casablanca to Fès 3 hrs
Fès to Marrakech 8 hrs
Fès to Rabat 2.5 hrs
Marrakech to Essaouira 3 hrs
Marrakech to Ouarzazate 4 hrs
Ouarzazate to Merzouga 5 hrs
Ouarzazate to Mhamid 4.5 hrs
Tangier to Fès 4.5 hrs
Tangier to Chefchaouen 2.5 hrs
class options are offered, and there is also an Long-Distance Bus Travel
overnight sleeper service between Tangier and
Marrakech. Advance bookings can be made on Long-distance buses connect all major towns
the ONCF website, although It is usually possible and cities. The main operators are CTM and
to buy a seat on the day, particularly in second- Supratours. Buses are comfortable and cheap.
class which has no seat reservations. Second On busy routes, such as Marrakech–Essaouira and
class is perfectly adequate for short journey, Casablanca–Marrakech, book a few days ahead.
but for longer distances it is worth paying more CTM
for first class. ∑ ctm.ma
ONCF Supratours
∑ oncf.ma ∑ oncf.ma
317
Grand Taxi each city’s cabs are a particular colour. For
example, in Marrakech they are all beige, while
An alternative to the long-distance bus is the in Casablanca they are red and in Tangier
grand taxi, or shared taxi. These are traditionally they are blue.
Mercedes saloons, although they are
increasingly being replaced by people carriers, Driving
and operate like minibuses. They gather near
bus stations or public squares with their With its magnificent scenery, much of Morocco
destinations posted in the window or shouted is a pleasure to drive through and a car is by far
NEED TO KNOW Getting Around
out by the driver. Once the vehicle has filled up the easiest way to explore beyond major cities.
with passengers it leaves. The Mercedes cars If you are not confident driving in a foreign
take six passengers, the people carriers country, then hiring a car and driver could be
considerably more. The fixed-rate fares are an option.
generally a little higher than the bus but the
advantage is that departures are typically far Driving to Morocco
more frequent. The grands taxis often ply routes It is possible to drive to Morocco via Spain taking
that are not well-served by the buses, including a car ferry across the Strait of Gibraltar.
over the Tizi-n-Test and Tizi-n-Tichka passes,
through the Ziz and Draa Valleys, and in the Driving in Morocco
Rif Mountains. Be aware, however, that seatbelts The imperfect road network is constantly under
are rare and drivers often don't adhere to improvement and the number of metalled roads
speed limits. means that a four-wheel-drive vehicle is no
longer essential, even in the south. A greater
Public Transport hazard is Moroccan driving standards. Two-lane
highways can frequently be filled by three or
The bigger towns and cities have public bus four vehicles jostling for position. Adherence to
services. These are cheap (tickets can be as little any sort of highway code often seems optional.
as 5Dh) but routes are often limited and usually Away from the main highways beware of
serve the suburbs rather than places that a obstacles such as donkeys, camels and livestock
visitor would want to go. Public buses can also crossing. As a general rule, avoid driving at night,
be very overcrowded. Many Moroccans prefer to when carts and bicycles with no lights are a real
use taxis instead. hazard. Mountain passes can be hair-raising,
A tramway connects Rabat and Salé, crossing with tight, hairpin bends and no safety barriers.
the Wadi Bou Regreg. The network has two Satellite navigation is available in Morocco for
lines with a total of 32 stations and is 19.5 km driving around major towns and cities.
12 miles) long. Tickets are available from the In large towns and cities, an attendant
driver. There is also a tram system in wearing a small brass badge is assigned to every
Casablanca connecting the city centre to pavement. This gardien de voitures will help you
outlying residential areas. to park, will watch your car in your absence and
help you manoeuvre out of your parking place.
Petit Taxi Payment for this service varies according to
how long the car is parked, and is at the
Regular taxis (as opposed to the grands taxis) driver’s discretion.
are known as petits taxis. They are usually small
cars taking only three or four passengers. They Car Rental
are abundant in most Moroccan cities and can Cities and airports are well provided with car-
be flagged down on the street. Petits taxis are hire companies, including major international
far cheaper than taking a taxi in Europe or the chains such as Avis, Europcar and Hertz. There
US. However, these taxis often do not have are also plenty of local outfits, which, while
meters and it is necessary to negotiate a fixed cheaper, may not offer reliable vehicles or
price in advance with the driver. To avoid being breakdown support. We recommend booking
exploited ask at your hotel what the correct via a comparison site such as Auto Europe and
fares are for local journeys. Some petits taxis in checking online reviews of hire outfits. Aside
cities do have meters but drivers often do not from the credit card required for the deposit, to
want to turn them on. If this is the case, get out hire a car you must be over 21 and have a full
and find another taxi. driving licence.
Petits taxis are not permitted to carry Car rental rates are reasonable. Check the
passengers beyond the limits of the city in terms of your agreement carefully, especially
which they operate. If you want to make a clauses relating to insurance and cover in case of
daytrip out of town you need to hire a grand taxi. accident or theft. Also, be sure to check the state
To identify to which city a petit taxi belongs, of the vehicle and ask for any damage to be
318
noted before you drive off. Rental cars in sailings. The journey takes 1.5 hrs and prices
Morocco are delivered empty of petrol and are start at around £100 for a car with two people. A
returned empty. The major companies will allow company called Intershipping operates five
you to pick up the vehicle in one city and drop it ferries a day between Tarifa and Tangier, while
off in another. GNV runs twice-weekly services between
An alternative to renting a car and driving Barcelona and Tangier. The easiest way to
yourself is to hire a car and driver. Most hotels reserve a space is via a specialist ferry booking
have a list of recommended drivers. You could site such as aferry or Direct Ferries.
also negotiate a day rate with a grand taxi aferry
(petits taxis are not allowed beyond city limits). ∑ aferry.co.uk
This can be a cost- effective way of getting Direct Ferries
around for groups. ∑ directferries.co.uk
Auto Europe
∑ autoeurope.co.uk Trekking
Rules of the Road With its stunning mountains, Morocco is a
Drive on the right. The Moroccan highway code superb destination for trekking. From Jebel
is based on the French system, giving priority Toubkal in the High Atlas to the Rif Mountains,
to traffic from the right at roundabouts and there are plenty of beautiful landscapes to
junctions. Seat belts must be worn at all explore. Pack sturdy walking boots, sun cream, a
times by the driver and all passengers. In sun hat and a waterproof and windproof jacket
general, Moroccan drivers obey traffic lights, for trekking all year round. In June to August,
perhaps because most junctions are patrolled wear long-sleeved shirts and bring a fleece or
by a gendarme or policeman. jumper for night time, when it can get chilly.
During winter, be prepared for very cold
Cycling weather and always take warm clothing,
including a woolly hat and gloves.
Morocco is a terrific country for cycling due to its It is recommended to hire a qualified guide –
varied and interesting landscapes. Dedicated guide de montagne. As well as guiding you and
road tourers recommend the Rif Mountains, keeping you safe, they will know local people
High Atlas and Southern Oases as particularly and act as a translator. Official guides carry
rewarding areas to explore on two wheels. They photo-identity cards and should be authorised
are also all relatively light on vehicular traffic. by the l'Association Nationale des Guides et
Roads are generally well surfaced, although in Accompagnateurs en Montagne du Maroc. They
more remote countryside areas they can be will have been trained in first aid. Fully qualified
potholed. It is best to have thicker-than-average mountain guides can be found through the
tyres of at least 28mm or 35mm to cope with the Bureaux des Guides in Imlil, Setti Fatma,
terrain. It is wise to carry plenty of water and Chefchaouen and the Aït Bougoumez Valley.
calorific snacks – there can be long stretches Negotiate all fees before departure.
where you will find nothing to eat – as well as Bureaux des Guides
long-sleeve tops to protect from sunburn and ∑ bureaudesguidesimlil.com
a warm fleece for cold nights at higher altitudes.
There is a little in the way of support for On Foot
cyclists, such as touring clubs or bicycle repair
shops. You may prefer to travel with a specialist Town centres are easy to explore on foot and
company such as Morocco Bike Tours or Maroc best appreciated at a relaxed pace, especially if
Nature, both of which can organise either day you have time to enjoy the maze of narrow
tours or longer rides, and provide bicycles and streets Take care when crossing roads.
on-road support.
Morocco Bike Tours
∑ bike-morocco.com CALÈCHE RIDES
Maroc Nature
Calèches
∑ maroc-nature.com
Several towns and cities, including
Marrakech and Taroudannt, have horse-
Boats and Ferries drawn carriages, known as calèches.
Hiring one costs more than a petit
There are several options for sailing between
taxi, but they can be a fun way of
Spain and northern Morocco across the Strait of
sightseeing. Official prices are posted
Gibraltar. Africa Morocco Link (AML), Baleria and
at the carriage ranks.
Transmediterránea all operate car ferry services
from Algeciras to Tangier, with frequent daily
319
PRACTICAL
INFORMATION
NEED TO KNOW Practical Information
A little local know-how goes a long way in Morocco. Here you can find all the
essential advice and information you will need during your stay.
AT A GLANCE
Personal Security
Beware of pickpockets in crowded tourist areas
EMERGENCY NUMBERS such as the souks. In Marrakech visitors have
had their bags snatched by thieves on scooters.
AMBULANCE &
POLICE FIRE SERVICE Use your common sense and be alert to your
surroundings. If you have anything stolen,
report the crime as soon as possible at the
19 150 nearest office of the tourist police (Brigade
Touristique). Get a copy of the crime report to
claim on your insurance. Contact your embassy
or consulate if your passport is stolen or in the
event of a serious crime or accident.
TIME ZONE
CET
(GMT +1) Health
There is no daylight
saving time.
For minor ailments go to a pharmacy or chemist,
which are usually very well stocked and have
knowledgeable staff. These are plentiful in
TAP WATER towns and cities. If you have an accident or
It is best to avoid medical problem requiring non-urgent medical
drinking tap water. attention, ask at your hotel for a doctor, or go
Many esablishments to the nearest hospital. Embassy websites
serve filtered water sometimes list doctors and clinics. You will have
to limit the use of to pay for medical treatment on the spot,
plastic bottles. including any supplies used.
Smoking, Alcohol and Drugs

TIPPING
Moroccan law prohibits smoking in most
Waiter 10–12.5 per cent public buildings but this is rarely enforced.
Although Muslims are forbidden to drink
alcohol, Morocco is a moderate Islamic country.
Hotel Porter 10Dh per bag
It has bars – although not many – and most
restaurants, especially those frequented by
Housekeeping 10Dh per day foreigners, serve beer, wine and spirits.
While hashish, known locally as kif, is illegal,
Concierge 20Dh plenty of Moroccans smoke it. Visitors may well
be offered kif for sale, particularly in the Rif, but
the penalty for buying or smoking hashish is ten
years’ imprisonment. It is best avoided.
ID
Visitors to Morocco are not required to carry ID
at all times, but it is a good idea to keep a
photocopy of the information pages of your
passport on your person.
320
Visiting Places of Worship offer free Wi-Fi, as do many restaurants, cafés
and train and bus stations.
Non-Muslims are not allowed inside mosques
and religious shrines in Morocco. The one Post
exception is the Hassan II Mosque (p110) in
Casablanca and the old Tin Mal mosque (p269), Main post offices, operated by Poste Maroc, are
which non-Muslims can visit as part of a found in the centres of major towns and cities.
guided tour. Look for a yellow "PTT" sign or La Poste logo.
You can also buy stamps at tabacs, the small
Religious Customs tobacco and newspaper kiosks scattered about
city centres. The postal system is fairly reliable,
Islam is the state religion, and the king of if not terribly fast.
Morocco is the leader of the faithful. It is thus
considered very bad form to criticize religion. It Bargaining
is also ill-mannered to disturb someone while
they are at prayer. It is above all during Ramadan You may bitterly disappoint a trader if you do
that certain rules must be obeyed. The fast of not show a willingness to indulge in their ritual
Ramadan is strictly observed in Morocco, and of bargaining, a custom that is very dear to
many dining establishments close during them. Bargaining revolves around the
daylight hours as a result. Non-Muslims should considerable difference between the price
avoid eating and drinking in public. quoted by the buyer and that offered by the
seller, and the slow process by which the two
Dress Code arrive at a mutually fair figure. The whole
process is treated like a game, so keep smiling,
To avoid offence and being stared at, female be polite and enjoy the spectacle. A third of
visitors to Morocco should dress modestly, the asking price is a good place to start. If you
particularly when travelling outside the big manage to get a good deal, you may feel that
cities. In practice, this means covering the you have undercut the seller – don't worry, they
shoulders and not wearing shorts. Dresses and wouldn't sell it if they weren't making a profit.
skirts should be at least knee length. It is not
necessary to cover your hair. Taxes and Refunds
LGBT VAT of 20 per cent is levied on most goods and

services. Visitors may be eligible for a refund on
Homosexuality is illegal in Morocco, and is presentation of a receipt for purchases of over
technically punishable by up to three years of 2,000Dh. This service is available at Casablanca
imprisonment. However, this is rarely enforced, and Marrakech airports only.
and this law does not apply to non-Moroccan
same-sex partners visiting the country. Morocco
is, in fact, a popular holiday destination for WEBSITES AND APPS
members of the LGBT community. As with
www.visitmorocco.com
same-sex couples, LGBT travellers should use
Morocco’s official tourist board website
discretion. Public displays of affection by both
provides excellent recommendations
gay and straight couples are generally frowned
for accomodation, tours and trips.
upon, and should be avoided since Morocco's
www.moroccoworldnews.com
largely Muslim population are extremely
English-language news website
conservative in this regard.
Careem
Casablanca's answer to UBER. Download
Mobile Phones and Wi-Fi the app before you travel in order to set up
your account.
Visitors can buy pay-as-you-go SIM cards from a
variety of local providers. Many hotels and riads
321
INDEX
Page numbers in bold refer to Architecture 13, 40–41 Beni-Snassen mountains 170,
main entries Casablanca’s Mauresque 171
114–15 Ben Youssef Medersa
A Kasbahs 284–5
Ksour 294
(Marrakech) 40, 231, 240–41
Berbers
Index
Abderrahman Slaoui Marrakech’s Saadian 241 High Atlas 261, 267

Foundation Museum Aremd 275 history 64–7
(Casablanca) 117 Argan oil 48, 138 Regraga 138
Abou Inan, Sultan 178, 179 Aristocratic Quarter (Volubilis) Bhalil 220
Accommodation 201 Bigoudine 139
booking 315 Art 50–51 Bin el-Ouidane Dam 226–7
see also Hotels festivals 95 Birds 39
Agadir 56–7, 123, 299, 302–3 Tangier 149 Dait Um Saad Lake 311
Agadir Beach 303 Art Deco 41 Dayet Aoua, Ifrah and Hachlaf
Agdal Gardens (Marrakech) Asni 268 228
258–9 Assif el-Had 139 mountain 225
Agdz 286 Assilah 56, 94–5 Souss Massa National Park 39,
Agouti 264 Atlas Mountains 35 308
Aguelmane Aziga 223 see also High Atlas; Middle storks 60, 247
Aguelmane Sidi Ali 223 Atlas Vallée des Oiseaux (Agadir)
Air travel 316, 317 Avenue des Forces Armées 303
Aït Benhaddou 41, 53, 272, Royales (FAR) (Casablanca) Vallée des Oiseaux (Jbel
280–81 112 Sarhro) 287
Aït Bouguemez Valley 37, 223, Azemmour 133 Boat trips
264–7 Azrou 48, 213, 222–3 Cascades d’Ouzoud 217
Aït Bou Oulli Valley 265 ferries from Spain 319
Akchour 162
Akka 307 B Bou Inania Medersa (Fès) 67,
178–9
Alaouite dynasty 231, 277, Bab Agnaou (Marrakech) 252–3 Bou Inania Medersa (Meknès)
29768 Bab Boujeloud (Fès) 184 205
Alarcos, Battle of 73 Bab Doukkala Mosque Boujad 227
Alcohol 320 (Marrakech) 248 Boulaouane 132–3
Alfonso VIII of Castile 73 Bab el-Ftouh (Fès) 191 Boulevard Mohammed V
Algeciras, Treaty of 141 Bab el-Rouah (Rabat) 87 (Casablanca) 112–13
Al-Hoceima 167 Bab Mansour el-Aleuj (Meknès) Boulevard Pasteur (Tangier)
Ali ben Youssef 66, 231 206 150–51
Almohad dynasty 66, 231 Bab Oudaïa (Rabat) 82, 88 Boumalne du Dadès 292, 294
Almoravid dynasty 66, 231, 277 Banana Village 55, 138 Boutiques 49
American Legation (Tangier) Banasa 65, 91, 104 Burroughs, William 149, 151, 152
147 Barbary macaques 38, 217, 225 Bus travel 317
Ancien Palais du Mendoub Bargaining 48, 321
(Tangier) 151
Ancient sites
Bars and cafés
Casablanca 118, 120 C
Banasa 91, 10465 Marrakech 244, 259 Café Hafa (Tangier) 152
Lixus 65, 91, 100, 105 Tangier 54, 145, 152 Caléches 317
M’Soura Stone Circle 100–101 Basilica (Volubilis) 200 Calendar of events 62–3
Sala Colonia 79, 91, 105 Bassin de l’Aguedal (Meknès) Calligraphy, Arabic 188
Thamusida 99, 105 207 Camels 37
Volubilis 65, 105, 145, Bay of Tangier 153 caravans 296, 297
198–201 Beaches 56–7 Camoin, Charles, Minaret à
Andalusia 66–7, 68 Agadir 303 Tangier 149
Andalusian Mosque (Fès) dress code 57 Camping 315
190–91 Essaouira 128–9 desert 35
Andalusian Quarter (Fès) 191 North Coast 167, 168, 170 Cap des Trois Fourches 168
Andalusian Wall (Rabat) 84–5 Plage Blanche 310 Capitol (Volubilis) 200
Anfa (Casablanca) 120–21 Sidi Ifni 304 Cap Malabata 164, 167
Anti-Atlas 277, 299, 307, 308–9 Tan Tan Plage310 Cap Spartel 164, 167
Aouli Gorge 271 Belkahia, Farid 81 Carpets and rugs 49, 82
Apps 321 Beni Mellal 226 Car rental 318–19
322
Carthaginians 141 Cathedrals see Churches and Dakhla 57, 311
Casablanca 17, 106–21 cathedrals Danan Synagogue (Fès) 182
bars 118, 120 Caves Dar Bellarj (Marrakech) 247
hotels 119 Bhalil cave houses 220 Dar el-Batha (Fès) 176–7
map 108–9 Gouffre du Friouato 218, 221 Dar el-Kebira Quarter (Meknès)
Mauresque architecture Grottes d’Hercule 165 206–7
114–15 Win t’mdoum Caves 139 Dar el-Makhzen (Fès) 180
myths and movies 53, 118 Zegzel Gorge 170–71 Dar el-Makhzen (Marrakech)
restaurants 112, 116 Cemeteries 256–7
Casablanca Twin Center 121 Chellah Necropolis (Rabat) Dar el-Makhzen (Meknès) 207
Cascades of Ouzoud 213, 78–9 Dar el-Makhzen (Rabat) 87
216–17 Seamen’s Cemetery (Salé) 97 Dar el-Ma (Meknès) 210
Castles and fortifications Centre de Hassan II Rencontres Dar Jamai (Meknès) 205
Aït Abou Kasbah 288 Internationales (Assilah) 95 Dar Si Saïd (Marrakech) 250
Aït Benhaddou 41, 53, 272, Ceuta 155, 166 Date palms 34, 292, 296–7, 307
280–81 Charanna Beach 168 Dayet Aoua 228
Amerhidil Kasbah (Skoura) 285, Chefchaouen 43, 160–61 Dayet Hachlaf 228
288 Chellah Necropolis (Rabat) 78–9 Dayet Ifrah 228
Andalusian Wall (Rabat) 84–5 Chiadma Region 138 Decumanus Maximus (Volubilis)
Bab el-Rouah (Rabat) 87 Choukri, Mohammed 149 201
Bab Oudaïa (Rabat) 82, 88 Chrob ou Chouf Fountain Delacroix, Eugène 51, 149
Ben Moro Kasbah (Skoura) 288 (Marrakech) 245 Fanatics of Tangier 51
City Walls (Rabat) 82, 88 Churches and cathedrals Disabled travellers 315
City Walls (Salé) 96 Anglican Church of St Andrew Draa Valley 277, 282, 286–7
Dar el-Kebira Quarter (Meknès) (Tangier) 149 Dress code 57, 321
206–7 Cathédrale Saint-Pierre Driving 318–19
Kasbah Boulaouane 132–3 (Rabat) 86 Driving tours
Kasbah Cherarda (Fès) 183 Church of San Bartolome Imouzzer des Ida Outanane
Kasbah Hamidouch 137 (Assilah) 95 139
Kasbah (Chefchaouen) Église du Sacré-Coeur Inland Lakes 228–9
160–61 (Casablanca) 41, 114, 116 Drugs 163, 320
Kasbah (Imilchil) 273 Cinema Rialto (Casablanca) 115
Kasbah (Kasba Tadia) 227
Kasbah (Marrakech) 253
Cirque de Jaffar 271
Citerne Portugaise (El-Jadida) E
Kasbahs 284–5 131 Église du Sacré-Coeur
Kasbah (Taliouine) 284 City Walls see Castles and (Casablanca) 41, 114, 116
Kasbah (Tangier) 144 fortifications El-Attarine Medersa (Fès) 189
Kasbah (Telouet) 272, 284 Closures 315 El-Cherratine Medersa (Fès)
Kasba Tadla 227 Colline du Charf (Tangier) 152–3 189
Ksar el-Bahr (Safi) 137 Corniche d’Aïn Diab (Casablanca) El-Glaoui, Al Thami 272
Ksar es-Seghir 165 120 El-Jadida 123, 130–31
Ksour in the Oases 294 Cortège of Venus (Volubilis) 201 El-Jebha 163
Melilla fortifications 169 Crafts El-Kelaâ 162
Old Kasbah (Agadir) 303 Musée Dar el-Batha (Fès) El-Kelaa M’Gouna 289
Oudaïa Kasbah (Rabat) 88–9 176–7 El-Mansour, Ahmed 231
Ramparts (Essauoira) 127 Tangier 153 El-Mansour, Yacoub 73, 85, 234
Ramparts (Marrakech) 247 see also Markets; Shopping; Emergency numbers 320
Ramparts (Meknès) 204 Souks Erfoud 296
Ramparts (Tangier) 145 Criée Berbère (Marrakech) 238 Erg Chebbi Dunes 296
Ramparts (Taroudannt) 43, Crime 320 Er-Rachidia 295
306 Currency 314 Essaouira 10, 47, 54, 123, 126–9
Ramparts (Tiznit) 308 Customs information 314 art 50
Seawalls (El-Jadida) 131 Cycling 319 film 53
Sqalas (Essauoira) 127 hotels 128
Tamdaght fortress 280
Taourirt Kasbah (Ouarzazate) D map 127
restaurants 126
282–3 Dadès Gorge 290, 294 Essaydi, Lalla 81
Tioute Kasbah 306–7 Dadès Valley 22, 277, 289, 290 Etiquette 321
Torres de Alcalá 167 Dait Um Saad Lake 311 Exorcists 61
323
F Food and drink (cont.)
olive oil 227
High Atlas (cont.)
landscape 35
Fabrique Culturelle des Anciens Oualidia oysters 47, 137 map 262–3
Abattoirs (Casablanca) 114 Oyster Farm No 7 (Oualidia) 136 Hiking and trekking 37
Fanatics of Tangier (Delacroix) saffron 309 Aït Bouguemez Valley 37, 264,
Index
51 Forest of Maâmora 99 267

Fashion designers 11, 49 Former Mellah (Essaouira) 128 Asni 268
Ferries 317 Forum (Volubilis) 200 E-elaa M’Gouna 289
Fès 19, 172–91 French Foreign Legion 294–5 High Atlas 11, 35, 37, 224, 264,
history 65, 66 French rule 64, 68–9 267–71, 274–5
map 174–5 architectural legacy 41 Jbel Ayachi 271
restaurants 191 Jbel Tazekka 218
shopping 185
Fès el-Bali (Old Fès) 42, 43, 44, G Jbel Toubkal 35, 37, 271, 274–5
Oukaïmaden 268
173, 182–5 Galerie Damgaard (Essaouira) Ourika Valley 270
Fès el-Jedid (New Fès) 173, 50, 129 The Rif 37, 162
180–83 Galerie d’Art Contemporain Tinerhir 291
map 181 Mohamed Drissi (Tangier) Wadi el-Abid gorge 216
Festivals and events 149 walking to Volubilis 202
Assilah Festival 95 Genet, Jean 101, 151 Hippy trail 54–5
A Year in Morocco 62–3 Glaoui family 272, 282, 284, 288 Historic buildings
Cherry Festival 221 Gouffre du Friouato 218, 221 American Legation (Tangier)
Fès Festival of World Sacred Goulmima 291 147
Music 54, 183 Grande Poste (Casablanca) 115 Bab Agnaou (Marrakech)
Gnaoua World Music Festival Grande Rue de Fès el-Jedid (Fès) 252–3
(Essaouira) 54, 61, 129 181 Bab Boujeloud (Fès) 184
Imilchil Marriage Fair 273 Grand Mosque (Chefchaouen) Bab el-Ftouh (Fès) 191
Jazz au Chellah (Rabat) 77 160 Bab Mansour el-Aleuj (Meknès)
Marathon des Sables 287 Grand Mosque (Meknès) 205 206
Marrakech International Film Grand Mosque (Tangier) 147 Cinema Rialto (Casablanca) 115
Festival 52 Grand Socco (Place du 9 Avril Cinema Rif (Tangier) 148
Moussem of Moulay Idriss 203 1947) (Tangier) 148 Citerne Portugaise (El-Jadida)
Moussems 61 Grand taxis 318 131
Fès, Treaty of 68 Green March 299, 311 Dar el-Ma (Meknès) 210
Film Grottes d’Hercule 165 Dar Si Saïd (Marrakech) 250
Aït Benhaddou 281 Guéliz (Marrakech) 50, 257 Fondouk (Chefchaouen) 160
Atlas Film Studios (Ouarzazate) Guelmin 310 Fondouk el-Nejjarine (Fès) 185
282 Guides 43 Grande Poste (Casablanca) 115
Casablanca 118 Habs Qara (Meknès) 207
CLA Studios (Ouarzazate) 282
El-Jadida 130 H Hassan Tower (Rabat) 85
Heri es-Souani (Meknès) 210
Essaouira 127, 128 Habs Qara (Meknès) 207 Hôtel Continental (Tangier)
locations 12, 52–3 Hajjaj, Hassan 81 147
Tangier 148, 153 Hammams and spas 58–9 Karaouiyine Library (Fès) 190
Tioute Kasbah 307 Marrakech 253 Koubba el-Khayatine (Meknès)
Flint, Bert 251 Haras de Meknès 210 207
Flora Hassan II 69, 76, 299 Librairie des Colonnes
date palms 292, 296–7 Hassan II Mosque (Casablanca) (Tangier) 151
mountain 225, 268 110–11 Mahakma du Pacha
oases 292, 293 Hassan Tower (Rabat) 85 (Casablanca) 118–19
rose growing 289 Health 320 Maison Tiskiwin (Marrakech)
Fondouks 40 vaccinations 314–15 251
Fondouk (Chefchaouen) 160 Hendrix, Jimi 54, 128, 138 Ménara Pavilion (Marrakech)
Fondouk Cherja (Tangier) 149 Herbalists 61 259
Fondouk el-Nejjarine (Fès) 185 Heri es-Souani (Meknès) 210 Mills (Chefchouen) 161
Food and drink 10, 46–7 High Atlas 11, 22, 224, 260–75, Sidi Moussa granary 266
mint tea 12, 47 277 Villa Majorelle (Marrakech) 243
Night Market food stalls hiking and trekking 37 History 64–9
(Marrakech) 46, 236 hotels 265, 269 Horses, Haras de Meknès 210
324
Hot air balloons 37
Hôtel Continental (Tangier) 147 J Koubba el-Khayatine (Meknès)
207
Hotels Jardin Secret (Marrakech) 246 Koutoubia Mosque (Marrakech)
Casablanca 119 Jazz 77 231, 234–5
destination spas 59 Jbel Bani 288 Ksar el-Kebir 104
Essaouira 128 Jbel Boulblanc 218 Ksar (ksour) 41, 294
High Atlas 265, 269 Jbel Lekst 309 Ksar es-Seghir 165
Marrakech 251 Jbel M’Goun 264, 267
Mediterranean Coast and the
Rif 171
Jbel Sarhro 286, 287, 294
Jbel Tazekka 218 L
Northern Atlantic Coast 96, Jbel Tazzeka National Park 213, Laayoune 311
100 218–19 Lake Ifni 275
Ouarzazate and the Southern Jbel Tidirhine 162, 163 Lake Iseli 273
Oases 289 Jbel Toubkal Massif 37, 224, 268, Lake Izourar 267
Rabat 87 269, 271, 274–5 Lake Tiselit 273
riads 12, 40, 250 Jemaa el-Fna (Marrakech) 11, 44, Lalla Aouda Mosque (Meknès)
Southern Atlantic Coast 128 55, 236–7 206
Southern Morocco and Jewish community Landscapes 34–5
Western Sahara 306 Chefchaouen 161 Language 315
House of the Athlete (Volubilis) Former Mellah (Essaouira) 128 Arabic phrase book 333
201 Mellah (Fès) 182 essential phrases 314
House of the Ephebe (Volubilis) Mellah (Marrakech) 252 French phrase book 332
201 Musée du Judaïsme Marocain La Palmeraie (Marrakech) 258
House of Orpheus (Volubilis) (Casablanca) 121 Larache 101
200 Tetouan 158 Las Navas de Tolosa, Battle of
see also Synagogues 73
I Leather goods 48
Ibn Batuta, Tomb of (Tangier) K Legzira Beach 56, 57, 304, 305
LGBT+ safety 321
146 Kasbah Museum of Lions of the Atlas 223
ID 320 Mediterranean Cultures Lixus 65, 91, 100, 105
Ida Outanane 139 (Tangier) 144–5 Lyautey, Marshal 73, 107
Idriss I 65, 173, 198, 202, 203 Kasbahs 41, 284–5
Idriss II 65, 173
Ifrane 35, 36, 213, 222
Chefchaouen 160–61
Kasbah Boulaouane 132–3 M
Igherm 307 Kasbah Cherarda (Fès) 183 Maison de la Photographie
Imi Irhzer 139 Kasbah Hamidouch 137 (Marrakech) 247
Imilchil 273 Kasba Tadla 227 Majorelle Gardens (Marrakech)
Imi-n-Ifri 216, 273 Marrakech 253 51, 242–3
Imlil 35, 271, 275 Old Kasbah (Agadir) 303 Majorelle, Jacques 51, 242, 243
Imouzzer 139 Oudaïa Kasbah (Rabat) 88–9 Maps
Imouzzer des Ida Outanane Tangier 144 Agadir 303
driving tour 139 Taourirt Kasbah (Ouarzazate) Assilah 95
Imouzzer du Kandar 213, 221, 282–3 Casablanca 108–9
228 see also Castles and Chefchaouen 161
Independence 68–9 fortifications Essaouira 127
Insurance 314 Kasba Tadla 227 Fès 174–5
Internet access 321 Kenitra 91, 99 Fès el-Jedid 181
Irrigation 292 Ketama 163 High Atlas 262–3
Islam 65 Khemisset 210–11 Imouzzer des Ida Outanane
Itineraries 24–33 Khenifra 226 139
2 Weeks A Grand Tour of Khettaras (underground water Marrakech 232–3
Morocco 24–7 channels) 292 Marrakech souks 239
7 Days in Tangier and the Kif (cannabis) 163 Mediterranean Coast and the
Mediterranean Coast 32–3 Kissaria (Marrakech) 239 Rif 156–7
10 Days in the Valleys and Kissaria (Meknès) 204 Meknès and Volubilis 194–5
Kasbahs of Southern Kite surfing 57, 311 Middle Atlas 214–15
Morocco 28–31 Koubba Ba’Adiyn (Marrakech) Morocco 14–15
see also Driving tours; Walks 249 Northern Atlantic Coast 92–3
325
Ouarzazate and the Southern Medinas (cont.) Mosques (cont.)
Oases 278–9 Chefchaouen 161 Karaouiyine Mosque (Fès)
Rabat 74–5 Essaouira 128 188–9
Rail Journey Planner 317 Tangier 146 Kasbah Mosque (Marrakech)
Salé 97 Tetouan 159 253
Index
Southern Atlantic Coast 124–5 Mediterranean Coast and the Koutoubia Mosque (Marrakech)
Southern Morocco and Rif 19, 154–71 231, 234–5
Western Sahara 300–301 beaches 167, 168170 Lalla Aouda Mosque (Meknès)
Tangier 142–3 hotels 171 206
Tetouan 159 map 156–7 Spanish Mosque
Marine mammals 38 restaurants 159 (Chefchaouen) 160
Markets Megdaz 273 Tin Mal Mosque 269
Central Market (Assilah) 95 Mehdya 57, 98–9 visiting 321
Central Market (Casablanca) Meknès 66, 193, 196–7, 204–10 Mouassine Quarter (Marrakech)
112, 113 map 194–5 248–9
Night Market food stalls restaurants 205 Moulay Abdallah 136
(Marrakech) 46, 236 Meknès and Volubilis 20, Moulay Abdallah Quarter (Fès
see also Souks 192–211 el-Jedid) 180
Marrakech 11, 13, 21, 230–59 map 194–5 Moulay Abdel Aziz 68
art 50 Meleh, Mohammed 81 Moulay Bousselham 101
bars, cafés and clubs 244, 259 Melilla 155, 169 Moulay Brahim 268
film 52 Mellah see Jewish community Moulay Idriss 202–3
hammams and spas 253 Mémoire d’Agadir 302 Moulay Ismaïl, Mausoleum of
history 66, 67 Ménara (Marrakech) 259 (Meknès) 196–7
hotels 251 Merinid dynasty 67, 231 Moulay Rachid 68
map 232–3 Merinid Tombs (Fès) 184 Moulouya Estuary 170
medina 42–3, 44 Merzouga 29635 Mountains 224–5
restaurants 236, 249 Mhamid 35, 288 Mrissa 167
souks map 239 Middle Atlas 20, 35, 37, 212–29, M’Soura Stone Circle 100–101
Martil 167 224 Museums and galleries
Massage 59 map 214–15 Abderrahman Slaoui
Matisse, Henri 51, 149 Midelt 271 Foundation Museum
Mauresque architecture Mills (Chefchouen) 161 (Casablanca) 117
(Casablanca) 114–15 Minaret à Tangier (Camoin) 149 Bert Flint Museum (Marrakech)
Mausoleums Mischliffen 223 251
Mausoleum of Mohammed V Mobile phones 321 Centre de Hassan II Rencontres
(Rabat) 76–7 Mohammedia (Casablanca) 121 Internationales (Assilah) 95
Mausoleum of Moulay Idriss Mohammed V 69, 77 Dar Bellarj (Marrakech) 247
203 Mausoleum of Mohammed V Dar Si Saïd Museum
Mausoleum of Moulay Ismaïl (Rabat) 76–7 (Marrakech) 250
(Meknès) 196–7 Mohammed VI 69 Fabrique Culturelle des
M’diq 167 Mohammed VI Museum of Anciens Abattoirs
Méchouars (Fès) 183 Modern and Contemporary (Casablanca) 114
Méchouars (Marrakech) 257 Art (Rabat) 51, 80–81 Fondation Lorin (Tangier) 146
Medersas 41 Money 315 Galerie Damgaard (Essaouira)
Ben Youssef Medersa Mosques 41 50, 129
(Marrakech) 40, 231, 240–41 Andalusian Mosque (Fès) Galerie d’Art Contemporain
Bou Inania Medersa (Fès) 67, 190–91 Mohamed Drissi (Tangier)
178–9 Bab Doukkala Mosque 149
Bou Inania Medersa (Meknès) (Marrakech) 248 Galerie Delacroix (Tangier) 150
205 Ben Youssef Mosque Kasbah Museum of
El-Attarine Medersa (Fès) 189 (Marrakech) 240, 241 Mediterranean Cultures
El-Cherratine Medersa (Fès) El-Atika Mosque (Rabat) 88, 89 (Tangier) 144–5
189 Grand Mosque (Chefchaouen) Maison de la Photographie
El-Sahrij Medersa (Fès) 191 160 (Marrakech) 247
Medersa Abou El Hassan (Salé) Grand Mosque (Meknès) 205 Mémoire d’Agadir 302
97 Grand Mosque (Tangier) 147 Mohammed VI Museum of
Medinas 10, 42–5 Hassan II Mosque (Casablanca) Modern and Contemporary
Asilah 94 110–11 Art (Rabat) 51, 80–81
326
Museums and galleries (cont.) National parks and nature Palaces (cont.)
Musée Archéologique reserves (cont.) Dar Menebhi (Marrakech)
(Tetouan) 158–9 Talassemtane National Park 246–7
Musée Bank Al Maghrib (Rabat) 162 Palais Bahia (Marrakech)
86 Nesrate Dunes 287 250–51
Musée Dar Belghazi (Sidi Nightlife, Marrakech 259 Palais de Raissouli (Assilah) 94
Bouknadel) 98 Northern Atlantic Coast 17, Palais el-Badi (Marrakech) 231,
Musée Dar el-Batha (Fès) 90–105 241, 252
176–7 hotels 96, 100 Royal Palace (Casablanca) 118
Musée Dar Jamai (Meknès) 205 map 92–3 Paradise Valley 55, 138
Musée d’Art et de Culture de restaurants 98 Parks and gardens
Marrakech (MACMA) 258 shopping 95, 104 Agdal Gardens (Marrakech)
Musée de l’Histoire et des Nouveau Talborj (Agadir) 302 258–9
Civilisations (Rabat) 86–7 Andalusian Garden (Dar
Musée de Marrakech 246–7
Musée des Armes (Fès) 184 O el-Batha, Fès) 176
Andalusian Garden (Rabat) 88
Musée des Oudaïa (Rabat) 83, Oases 34 Jardin Secret (Marrakech) 246
88 Ksour in the Oases 294 Jardins Exotique (Sidi
Musée d’Ethnographie Southern and Eastern 292–3 Bouknadel) 98
(Chefchaouen) 161 Oil Press (Volubilis) 200 La Palmeraie (Marrakech) 258
Musée d’Ethnographie Old Medina (Casablanca) 117 Majorelle Gardens (Marrakech)
(Tetouan) 159 Oral tradition 237 51, 242–3
Musée du Judaïsme Marocain Oua-Belli 307 Ménara (Marrakech) 259
(Casablanca) 121 Oualidia 47, 136 Parc de la Ligue Arabe
Musée Ethnographique (Oujda) Ouarzazate 52, 53, 282 (Casablanca) 116
171 Ouarzazate and the Southern Tafilalt Palm Grove 296–7
Musée Municipal du Patrimoine Oases 23, 276–97 Passports 314
Amazighe (Agadir) 302 hotels 289 Petit Socco (Tangier) 146
Musée Nationalde la map 278–9 Petit taxis 318
Céramique (Safi) 137 restaurants 283 Pharmacies 320
Musée Sidi Mohammed ben Ouezzane 168 Philip III of Spain 73
Abdallah (Essaouira) 129 Ouirgane 269 Phoenicians 64, 65, 91, 123, 141
Museo de Historia, Arqueología Oujda 171 Photography, etiquette 210
y Etnografía (Melilla) 169 Oukaïmeden 36, 268 Phrase books 332–3
Museo de la Legión (Ceuta) 166 Oum er-Rbia 213 Piracy 123
Museo Municipal El Revellin Sources of 223 Salé Rovers 97
(Ceuta) 166 Ourika Valley 270 Pirates 167
Villa des Arts (Casablanca) 116 Outdoor activities 36–7 Place de Faro (Tangier) 150
Music Oysters 136, 137 Place de France (Tangier) 150
festivals 54, 77 Place des Nations Unies
Gnaoua 61
Moroccan inspired tracks 55 P (Casablanca) 112
Place du Souk el-Ghezel (Rabat)
Muslim Quarters (Fès el-Jedid) Painted rocks (Jean Vérame) 83
181 309 Place el-Hedime (Meknès) 206
Palaces Place el-Seffarine (Fès) 190
N Ancien Palais du Mendoub

(Tangier) 151
Place Mohammed V
(Casablanca) 113
Nador 168 Dar el-Batha (Fès) 176–7 Place Uta el-Hammam
National parks and nature Dar el-Kebira (Meknès) 206–7 (Chefchaouen) 160
reserves 39 Dar el-Makhzen (Fès) 180 Police 320
Ifrane National Park 39, 222 Dar el-Makhzen (Marrakech) Polizzi Medina (Agadir) 303
Jbel Tazzeka National Park 213, 256–7 Port (Casablanca) 119
218–19 Dar el-Makhzen (Meknès) 207 Port (Essauoira) 127
Jbel Toubkal National Park 225 Dar el-Makhzen (Rabat) 87 Portuguese 67, 68, 123, 155,
Merja Zerga National Park 39, Dar el-Makhzen (Tangier) 299
101 144–5 Postal services 321
Moulouya Estuary 170 Dar el-Medrasa (Meknès) Prices 314
Souss Massa National Park 39, 206–7 Public holidays 315
308 Dar Jamai (Meknès) 205 Public transport 318
327
Q Rue Hadj Daoui (Rabat) 83
Rue Souïka (Rabat) 84
Souks 45, 48–9
Country Souks 211
Quartier du Marshan (Tangier) Rue Souk es-Sebat (Rabat) 84 Criée Berbère (Marrakech) 238
152 Rue Talaa Kebira (Fès) 185 Fès 48, 185
Quartier Habous (New Medina) Rugs see Carpets and rugs Fondouk Cherja (Tangier) 149
Index
(Casablanca) 118–19 Rules of the road 314, 317 Kissaria (Marrakech) 239
Kissaria (Meknès) 204
R S Ksar el-Kebir Sunday Souk 104

Marrakech 13, 42, 45, 48,
Rabat 16, 72–89 Saadian dynasty 68, 231, 277 238–9
hotels 87 architecture 241 Meknès 204
map 74–5 Saadian Tombs (Marrakech) Rabat 48, 84
restaurants 83 60, 231, 256 Rabha Kedima (Marrakech)
walk 88–9 Safety 238
Rabha Kedima (Marrakech) 238 LGBT+ 321 Salé 96
Rail travel 316–17 personal security 320 Souk des Teintures
Ramparts see Castles and travel safety advice 314 (Marrakech) 238, 239
fortifications Saffron 309 Souk el-Attarin (Marrakech)
Ras el-Aïn 226 Safi 48, 123, 136–7 238–9
Ras el-Ma (Chefchaouen) 161 Sahara Desert 35, 283, 288, Souk el-Had (Aadir) 303
Rbati, Mohammed Ben Ali 81 299 Souk Haddadin (Marrakech)
Reasons to Love Morocco 10–13 camel caravans 296, 297 239
Religion oases 291 Souk Semarine (Marrakech)
Morocco for Spirituality 60–61 Southern and Eastern Oases 238
religious customs 321 292–3 see also Markets
Restaurants 46, 47 Sahrawi Arab Democratic Source Bleue de Meski 295
Casablanca 112, 116 Republic 311 Souss Massa National Park 39,
Essaouira 126 Saïdia 5, 167, 170 308
Fès 191 Saint-Laurent, Yves 11, 242 Souss plain 251, 269, 299, 306
Marrakech 236, 249 Sala Colonia 79, 91, 105 Southern Atlantic Coast 18,
Mediterranean Coast and the Salé 96–7 122–39
Rif 159 Salt 296 hotels 128
Meknès 205 Sandboarding 36 map 124–5
Northern Atlantic Coast 98 Sea fishing 99 restaurants 126
Ouarzazate and the Southern Seafood 47 Southern Morocco and Western
Oases 283 Seamen’s Cemetery (Salé) 97 Sahara 23, 298–311
Rabat 83 Sefrou 221 hotels 306
Southern Atlantic Coast 126 Settat 132 map 300–301
Southern Morocco and Setti Fatma 270 restaurants 304
Western Sahara 304 Shopping 48–9 Southern Oases see Ouarzazate
Tangier 151 Fès 185 and the Southern Oases
Riads 12, 40, 250 Northern Atlantic Coast 95, Spanish 67, 68, 123, 299
Rick’s Café (Casablanca) 53, 118 104 Ceuta 155, 166
Rif, The 162–3, 22424 Tangier 153 Melilla 155, 169
see also Mediterranean Coast see also Markets; Souks Western Sahara 311
and the Rif Sidi Boughaba Lake (Mehdya) Spanish Mosque (Chefchaouen)
Rissani 297 98–9 160
Rolling Stones 55, 152 Sidi Bouknadel 98 Spas see Hammams and spas
Romans 64–5, 105 Sidi Ifni 13, 57, 304–5 Specific needs, travellers with
Banasa 65, 91, 104 Sidi Kacem 210 315
Lixus 65, 91, 100, 105 Sidi Kaouki 57, 132 Speed limit 316
Sala Colonia 79, 91, 105 Sidi Moussa 266 Spirituality 60–61
Thamusida 99, 105 Skiing 36, 268 Sqalas (Essauoira) 127
Volubilis 65, 105, 145, Skoura 285, 288–9 Straits of Gibraltar 141, 144, 165,
198–201 Slavery 296 166
Rue Bou Ksissat (Fès) 182–3 Smara 310 Surfing 13, 57
Rue de la Liberté (Tangier) 150 Smoking 320 Essaouira 128–9
Rue des Consuls (Rabat) 84 Snowboarding 36 Oualidia 136
Rue Es-Siaghine (Tangier) 146 Souk el-Arba du Rharb 104 Sidi Ifni 304
328
Surfing (cont.)
Sidi Kaouki 57, 132
Tizi-n-Tichka Pass 35, 272
Tizi-n-Tirrhist Pass 267 W
Tamri 138 Tizi-n-Touzlimt Pass 307 Wadi el-Abid 216
Synagogues Tiznit 308 Walks
Danan Synagogue (Fès) 182 Todra Gorge 290, 291 A Long Walk Jbel Toubkal
Great Synagogue (Tangier) Tombs and shrines 60 Massif 274–5
150, 151 Boujad 227 A Short Walk The Oudaïa
Koubba Ba’Adiyn (Marrakech) Kasbah (Rabat) 88–9
T 249
Koubba of Sidi Chamharouch
Waterfalls
Cascades de Ras el-Oued 218,
Tabant 266 275 219
Tacheddirt 275 Mausoleum of Mohammed V Cascades d’Ouzoud 213,
Tafilalt Palm Grove 277, 296–7 (Rabat) 76–7 216–17
Tafraoute 308–9 Mausoleum of Moulay Ali Setti Fatma 270
Taghazoute 55, 138 Cherif (near Rissani) 297 Watersports 57
Tajines 46 Mausoleum of Moulay Idriss Sidi Ifni 57, 304
Taliouine 284, 307 203 see also Surfing
Tamanar 138 Mausoleum of Moulay Ismaïl Websites 321
Tamaroute 139 (Meknès) 196–7 Western Sahara 311
Tamdaght 280 Merinid Tombs (Fès) 184 see also Southern Morocco and
Tamegroute 287 Saadian Tombs (Marrakech) Western Sahara
Tamnougalt 286 60256, 231 Whale-watching 38
Tamri 138 Tomb of Ibn Batuta (Tangier) Wi-Fi 321
Tamtattouchte 290–91 146 Wildlife 38–9
Tangier 18, 68, 91, 140–53 Zaouïa Ahansal 267 Barbary macaques 38, 217,
artists and writers 149 Zaouïa of Moulay Idriss II (Fès) 225
cafés and tea houses 54, 145, 60, 188 Barbary sheep 225
152 Zaouïa Nassiriya (Tamegroute) Lions of the Atlas 223
map 142–3 287 mountain 225
restaurants 151 Zaouïa of Sidi bel Abbès oases 293
shopping 153 (Marrakech) 244 Sidi Boughaba Lake (Mehdya)
Tanneries (Marrakech) 245 Zaouïa of Sidi ben Slimane 98–9
Tanners’ Quarter (Fès) 42, 45, el-Jazouli (Marrakech) 244–5 Vallée des Oiseaux (Agadir)
190 Torres de Alcalá 167 303
Tan Tan 310 Toundout 289 see also Birds; National parks
Tan Tan Plage 310 Trains see Rail travel and nature reserves
Tap water 320 Travel Wilhelm II, Kaiser 141
Tarfaya 311 getting around 316–19 Wine, Boulaouane 133
Taroudannt 43, 306–7 safety advice 314 Writers, Tangier 149
Tata 307 Triumphal Arch (Volubilis) 201
Taxes 321
Y
Taxis 318
Taza 220 U Youssef en Tachfin 66
Tazenakht 307 Ummayad caliphate 65
Telephone services 321
Telouet 272–3, 280
Usine de Marmar (Erfoud) 296
Z
Tessaout Valley 224
Tetouan 158–9 V Zagora 283, 286
Zaouïa Ahansal 267
map 159 Vaccinations 314–15 Zaouïa of Moulay Idriss II (Fès)
restaurants 159 Vallée des Oiseaux (Agadir) 303 60, 188
Thamusida 99, 105 Vallée des Roches 228 Zaouïa Oulemsi 266–7
Time zone 320 Vérame, Jean 309 Zaouïa of Sidi bel Abbès
Tinerhir 291 Villa des Arts (Casablanca) 116 (Marrakech) 244
Tinfou Dunes 27 Ville Nouvelle (Rabat) 86 Zaouïa of Sidi ben Slimane
Tin Mal 269 Ville Nouvelle (Tetouan) 158 el-Jazouli (Marrakech) 244–5
Tin Mal Mosque 269 Visas 314 Zegzel Gorge 170–71
Tinzouline 286 Volubilis 65, 105, 145, 198–201, Zerhoun Massif 202, 211
Tizi-Beni-Selmane Pass 288 211 Ziz Gorge 294–5
Tizi-n-Test Pass 268, 269 see also Meknès and Volubilis Ziz Valley 294
329
GLOSSARY
adrar: mountain. Chikhate: female dancer from Hadith: collection of legends
the Middle Atlas. relating to the life, words and
agadir: collective granary
deeds of the Prophet
in the western Atlas. Chleuh: Berber tribe of the
Mohammed.
agdal: large garden, orchard. Atlas and Anti-Atlas. Also the
language spoken by the Hadj: pilgrimage to Mecca.
aguelmane: permanent tribes of these regions.
natural lake. haik: long woman’s wrap
dahir: decree having the force made from a single piece of
ahidou: collective dance fabric, worn draped around
of law in Morocco.
performed by the Berber the body.
tribes of the Middle Atlas dar: house.
and eastern High Atlas. hamada: stony, arid plateau
dayet: natural lake formed in the Sahara.
ahwach: collective dance by underground water.
performed by villagers of hammam: Traditional
diffa: feast-day meal. Moroccan bath.
the western High Atlas and
the Anti-Atlas. dirham: Moroccan unit hanbel: carpet or blanket
aïd: festival. of currency. woven by Berbers.
aït: “son of”, referring to a douar: hamlet. Hegira: starting point of the
tribe or the region occupied emir: personal title meaning Muslim era, on 16 July 622.
by this tribe. “he who commands”. henna: shrub grown for its
Ammeln: Berber tribe of the erg: expanse of sand or ridge leaves, which, among other
Anti-Atlas whose language things, are used in the
of dunes.
is Chleuh (qv). manufacture of cosmetics.
Fassi: inhabitant of Fès.
assif: river or watercourse. igherm: communal fortified
fiqh: Islamic legal code. granary typical of the central
bab: city gate.
fondouk: in the past, High Atlas.
baraka: divine blessing, which
hostelry for travelling imam: Islamic leader of
is passed down from parent
to child. Baraka is also merchants, their beasts congregational prayer.
obtained by making of burden and their
jbel: mountain.
a pilgrimage to a holy shrine. merchandise.
jellaba: wide-sleeved, hooded
bendir: drum consisting gebs: plaster that can
garment worn by both men
of a goatskin stretched over be decoratively carved.
and women.
a frame. Also known as stucco.
jemaa: village assembly of
bled: countryside, village. gurbi: house of semi-nomadic
the heads of families in
people, built with mud
borj: bastion or tower set at Berber tribes.
and branches.
the corners of the defensive
kaftan: long woman’s garment
walls of fortified houses. Gnaoua: religious brotherhood
secured at the front and
burnous: voluminous woollen of popular belief. Followers
decorated with passe-
hooded cloak worn by men. consider themselves to be
menterie and embroidery.
the spiritual descendants
cadi: religious judge, once kasbah: fortified house with
of Bilal, an Ethiopian slave,
having the power to impose a single crenellated tower, or
whom the Prophet
sharia law. four crenellated towers, one
Mohammed set free
caid: chief of a defined before making him his at each corner of the walls.
territory, subordinate to muezzin (qv). khoubz: bread (usually
the governor of a province. a circular loaf).
guedra: dance characteristic
caliph: title held by a Muslim of the Goulimine region of khaima: tent made of woven
chief, designating Morocco, performed by goat-hair or camel-hair, used
Mohammed’s successor.
kneeling women. Also the by the nomads of the Sahara
chergui: hot, dry large drum that is played to and the semi-nomadic people
southeasterly wind. accompany the dancers. of the Atlas.
330
khettara: underground moqqade: head of a sharia: religious law
channels for the provision of village or of a religious based on the teachings
water, along whose course brotherhood. of the Koran.
wells are sunk. Synonymous
Mouloud: birthday of the sheikh: chief of a tribal
with foggara.
Prophet Mohammed. subdivision or the leader
koubba: cube-like building of a religious brotherhood.
crowned by a dome and
moussem: important
annual festival involving a sherif (pl. shorfa): descendant
housing the tomb of a
pilgrimage to the tomb of of the Prophet Mohammed.
venerated individual.
a saint, a commercial fair shorfa: see sherif.
ksar (pl. ksour): fortified village and popular entertainment.
surrounded by solid walls set souk: market, laid out
with towers at the angles. muezzin: religious official who according to the various
calls the faithful to prayer. goods and services that
Lalla: title of respect given
muqarna: decorative elements the stallholders offer.
to women.
in the form of stalactites, sura: verse of the Koran.
maalem: master-craftsman. made of stucco or wood and
suspended from the ceiling.
tighremt: Berber word for
makhzen: central power, a kasbah (qv). A fortified
royal authority. nisrani: “Nazarene”– a patriarchal house several
marabout: prestigious head Christian, or European. storeys high with towers
of a religious brotherhood. at the corners.
pisé: mixture of sun-baked
By extension, the term also earth, grit and sometimes tizi: mountain pass.
refers to the tomb of such
straw used as a building
a holy man. wadi: river bed that is dry
material in rural areas.
or semi-dry except in rainy
mashrabiyya: wooden
qibla: direction of Mecca, season; river; river valley.
latticework panel used Anglicized form of oued.
indicated in mosques by a wall
as a screen in front of
in the centre of which is the zakat: obligatory almsgiving.
balconies and in the windows
mihrab (qv). One of the five pillars
of mosques and houses, to
hide those within from view. Ramadan: ninth month of of Islam.
the Muslim (lunar) year, zaouïa: seat of a religious
méchouar: parade ground
during which Muslims are brotherhood that gives
at the entrance to a royal
required to fast from sunrise religious instruction,
palace.
to sunset. the shrine where a
medersa: Koranic school with marabout (qv) is buried.
resident students.
reg: stony desert.
riad: traditional residence zellij: geometric tilework,
medina: traditional Arab town typically arranged in intricate,
enclosed by ramparts; from that is organized around a
colourful patterns.
Medina, the city where the courtyard planted with trees
Prophet Mohammed found and flowers.
refuge from persecution. ribat: fortified monastery
mellah: Jewish quarter of from where Muslim warrior
a medina. monks set out to spread the
Islamic faith.
menzah: pavilion in a palace
garden. seguia: irrigation canal for
distribution of water to crops.
mihrab: niche in a mosque,
indicating the direction serdal: brightly coloured scarf
of Mecca. worn by Berber women,
decorated with coins.
minaret: tower of a mosque
from the top of which the seroual: loose, calf-length
muezzin (qv), or an electric trousers fastened at the waist
recording, calls the faithful and the knees, worn under
to prayer. the jellaba (qv).
minbar: pulpit in a mosque, shamir: long, wide-sleeved

from which the imam (qv) man’s shirt worn under
leads Friday prayers. another garment.
331
FRENCH PHRASE BOOK
IN EMERGENCY MAKING A TELEPHONE CALL
Help! Au secours! oh sekoor I’d like to place a Je voudrais télé- zhuh voo-dreh fehr
Stop! Arrêtez! aret-ay long-distance call. phoner a l`etranger. uñ añter-oorbañ
Call a Appelez un apuh-lay uñ I’ll try again Je rappelerai zhuh rapel-
doctor! médecin! medsañ later. plus tard. eray ploo tar
Call an Appelez une apuh-lay oon Hold on. Ne quittez pas, nuh kee-tay pah
ambulance! ambulance! oñboo-loñs s’il vous plaît. seel voo play
Call the Appelez la apuh-lay lah Could you speak Pouvez-vous parler poo-vay voo par-
police! police! poh-lees up a little please? un peu plus fort? lay uñ puh ploo for
Call the fire Appelez les apuh-lay leh local call la communication komoonikah-
department! pompiers! poñ-peeyay locale syoñ low-kal
Where is the Où est l’hôpital oo ay l’opeetal luh
nearest hospital? le plus proche? ploo prosh SHOPPING
COMMUNICATION ESSENTIALS How much C’est combien say kom-byañ
does this cost? s’il vous plaît? seel voo play
Yes Oui wee
I would like … je voudrais… zhuh voo-dray
No Non noñ
Do you have? Est-ce que vous avez? es-kuh voo zavay
Please S’il vous plaît seel voo play
I’m just Je regarde zhuh ruhgar
Thank you Merci mer-see
looking. seulement. suhlmoñ
Excuse me Excusez-moi exkoo-zay mwah
Hello Bonjour boñzhoor Do you take Est-ce que vous es-kuh voo
Goodbye Au revoir oh ruh-vwar credit cards? acceptez les cartes zaksept-ay leh kart
Good night Bonsoir boñ-swar de crédit? duh kreh-dee
Morning Le matin matañ This one. Celui-ci. suhl-wee-see
Afternoon L’après-midi l’apreh-meedee That one. Celui-là. suhl-wee-lah
Evening Le soir swar expensive cher shehr
Yesterday Hier eeyehr cheap pas cher, pah shehr,
Today Aujourd’hui oh-zhoor-dwee bon marché boñ mar-shay
Tomorrow Demain duhmañ size, clothes la taille tye
Here Ici ee-see
There Là lah SIGHTSEEING
What? Quel, quelle? kel, kel art gallery la galerie d’art galer-ree dart
When? Quand? koñ bus station la gare routière gahr roo-tee-yehr
Why? Pourquoi? poor-kwah garden le jardin zhar-dañ
Where? Où? oo mosque la mosquée mos-qay
museum le musée moo-zay
USEFUL PHRASES tourist les renseignements roñsayn-moñ too-
How are you? Comment allez-vous? kom-moñ talay voo information touristiques, le rees-teek, sandee-
Very well, Très bien, treh byañ, office syndicat d’initiative ka d’eenee-syateev
thank you. merci. mer-see train station la gare gahr
Pleased to Enchanté de faire oñshoñ-tay duh fehr
meet you. votre connaissance. votr kon-ay-sans STAYING IN A HOTEL
See you soon. A bientôt. byañ-toh
Do you have a Est-ce que vous es-kuh voo-zavay
Where is/are…? Où est/sont…? oo ay/soñ
vacant room? avez une chambre? oon shambr
How far Combien de kom-byañ duh
is it to…? kilomètres d’ici à…? keelo-metr double room, la chambre à deux shambr ah duh
d’ee-see ah with double bed personnes, avec pehr-son avek un
Which Quelle est la kel ay lah deer- un grand lit gronñ lee
way to…? direction pour…? ek-syoñ poor twin room la chambre à shambr ah
Do you speak Parlez-vous par-lay voo deux lits duh lee
English? anglais? oñg-lay single room la chambre à shambr ah
I don’t Je ne zhuh nuh kom- une personne oon pehr-son
understand. comprends pas. proñ pah room with a la chambre avec shambr avek
Could you Pouvez-vous parler poo-vay voo par-lay bath, shower salle de bains, sal duh bañ,
speak slowly moins vite s’il mwañ veet seel une douche oon doosh
please? vous plaît? voo play I have a J’ai fait une zhay fay oon
I’m sorry. Excusez-moi. exkoo-zay mwah reservation. réservation. rayzehrva-syoñ
USEFUL WORDS EATING OUT

big grand groñ Have you Avez-vous une avay-voo oon
small petit puh-tee got a table? table de libre? tahbl duh leebr
hot chaud show I want to Je voudrais zhuh voo-dray
cold froid frwah reserve réserver rayzehr-vay
good bon boñ a table. une table. oon tahbl
bad mauvais moh-veh The check L’addition s’il l’adee-syoñ seel
enough assez assay please. vous plaît. voo play
open ouvert oo-ver I am a Je suis zhuh swee
closed fermé fer-meh vegetarian. végétarien. vezhay-tehryañ
left gauche gohsh menu le menu, la carte men--oo, karto
right droite drwaht breakfast le petit puh-tee
straight ahead tout droit too drwah déjeuner deh-zhuh-nay
near près preh lunch le déjeuner deh-zhuh-nay
far loin lwañ dinner le dîner dee-nay
early de bonne heure duh bon urr
late en retard oñ ruh-tar NUMBERS
entrance l’entrée l’on-tray
exit la sortie sor-tee 1 un, une uñ, oon
toilet les toilettes, les WC twah-let, vay-see 2 deux duh
free, no charge gratuit grah-twee 3 trois trwah
Monday lundi luñ-dee 4 quatre katr
Tuesday mardi mar-dee 5 cinq sañk
Wednesday mercredi mehrkruh-dee 6 six sees
Thursday jeudi zhuh-dee 7 sept set
Friday vendredi voñdruh-dee 8 huit weet
Saturday samedi sam-dee 9 neuf nerf
Sunday dimanche dee-moñsh 10 dix dees
332
MOROCCAN ARABIC
PHRASE BOOK
Moroccan Arabic is unique to Morocco and is not understood by SHOPPING
other Arabic speakers. Moroccans speak faster and abbreviate
words. Pronunciation is gentler due to the influence of French. How much is it? kam else’er?
I would like… ana ‘habbayt …
IN EMERGENCY Do you have? andak…?
Help! aawenooni This one haazi
Stop! owkof! expensive ghaalya
Can you call a doctor? momkin kellem cheap rekheesa
el tabeeb?
Call an ambulance! aayeto aala el isaaf SIGHTSEEING
Can you call the police? momkin kellem
art gallery galiree daar
el polees?
Call the fire department! aayeto aala el matafie bus station stasyon do boos
Where is the nearest fin kayn akrab mostashfa garden eljonayna
hospital? mosque masjid
museum moozi
COMMUNICATION ESSENTIALS tourist office mektab soyaa’h
Yes na-am train station mahattat el tren
No laa beach bhar
Please min fadlak guide geed
Thank you se’hha / shukran map kaart
Excuse me ismahlee
park baark
Hello / selaam
ticket tekee
Peace be upon you
Goodbye ma’eel salaama
Good evening masaal kheer
STAYING IN A HOTEL
Good morning esbe’h elkheer Do you have a room? enta ‘andak ghorfa?
Yesterday el baareh double room, ghorfa le shakhsayn
Today el yoom with double bed joj bioot
Tomorrow ghadan
single room ghorfa le shakhs waa’hid
Here hina
with bathroom / shower ma’al ‘ham-maam / doosh
There hinak
What? shnoo? I have a reservation. ana mereserve hna
When? imta?
Why? alash? EATING OUT/FOOD
Where? fayn? Have you got a table for…? enta ‘andak towla le…?
I want to reserve a table. brit reserve wahd tabla
USEFUL PHRASES
The check please. te’eteeni elfatoora min
How are you? washraak? fadlak?
I’m fine. laabas
I am a vegetarian. ana nabati wa la akulu
Pleased to meet you. metshar-fin
lehoum wala hout
Where is/are…? fayn…?
Which way to…? ina terik… ? breakfast iftar
Do you speak English? tatkalam engleeze-ya? lunch reda
I don’t understand. ana mafhimtaksh dinner aasha
I’m sorry. esme’hlee steamed pot of tajeen
vegetables with meat, etc.
USEFUL WORDS hand-made couscous kuskus
big kbeer pastry filled with vegetables elbasteela
small sgeer and meat, etc.
hot sokhoon soup ‘hreera
cold baared
meatballs with herbs kefta
good mlee’ha
fish el’hoot
bad mashemlee’ha
open maftoo’h chicken djaaj
closed maghlook meat l’hem
left liseer vegetables legoom/khodra
right limeen water maa’a
straight ahead neeshan
near qurayab NUMBERS
far baeed
1 waa’hid
entrance dokhool
exit khrooj 2 zooj
toilet towalett 3 tlaata
tonight felleel 4 araba’aa
day nehaar 5 khamsa
hour sa’aa 6 set-ta
week semaana 7 seba’a
Monday el etneen
8 tmaanya
Tuesday el tlaata
9 tes’aa
Wednesday el arbe’aa
10 ‘ashra
Thursday el khamees
Friday el jomo’aa 20 eshreen
Saturday el sabet 50 khamseen
Sunday el a’had 100 meya
333
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First edition 2002

Published in Great Britain by Dorling Kindersley Limited,
80 Strand, London, WC2R 0RL
Published in the United States by DK Publishing,
The information in this 1450 Broadway, 8th Floor, New York, NY 10018
DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly. Copyright © 2002, 2019 Dorling Kindersley Limited
Every effort has been made to ensure that this book A Penguin Random House Company
is as up-to-date as possible at the time of going to 18 19 20 21 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
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ISSN: 1542 1554
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EYEWITNESS

Northern Atlantic Coast.................90 Middle Atlas .......................................... 212

Casablanca ........................................... 106 Marrakech ............................................ 230

Southern Atlantic Coast................ 122 High Atlas ............................................. 260

Mediterranean Southern Morocco

NEED TO KNOW 312

Left: colourful baskets for sale in a souk

Reasons to Love Morocco.......................10

Getting to Know Morocco ....................... 16

Morocco Itineraries ..................................... 24

Morocco Your Way ......................................34

A Brief History ................................................64

Bustling souks full of glittering goods, heady

1 The magnificent red

Winding streets in ancient cities, colourful souks, precipitous mountain

OukaïmedenOukaïmeden Telouet Telouet

Tamanar Tamanar Imi-n- Imi-n-

Had-Belfa Had-Belfa Tioulit Tioulit

Rabat TUNISIA IRAQ

RABAT Best for

The ever-evolving Atlantic port of Rabat is both an imperial architecture

low-lying coastal wetlands

Stretching north of Rabat to the outskirts of Tangier’s Home to

The commercial and financial capital

Many of these places, such as El-Jadida

TANGIER Best for

medinas and lush mountains

East of Tangier and beyond the Spanish enclave of Home to

Fès is home to the most stunning, not

MEKNÈS & VOLUBILIS Best for

The smallest of Morocco’s four imperial cities, Meknès is Home to

A wild region of rare beauty, the Middle

HIGH ATLAS Best for

SOUTHERN MOROCCO Best for

AND WESTERN SAHARA windswept beaches of the far

Day 6 surroundings. Meander through the

1 Leather Tanneries in Fès.

1 Sunset over Aït Benhaddou.

Day 5 worth a brief stop for lunch. Aim to halt

1 Steep canyons in Todra Gorge.

Day 8 hills to reach Bin el-Ouidine, a village that

Day 1 Spanish enclave of Ceuta (p166) the

1 Blue painted walls of the

Lush vegetation on the

A palm tree forest

Experience the Mountain Air

Enter the Sahara

before, it involves hiking

Skiing and Snowboarding

Descending the rocky

Up, Up and Away!

place to see sperm whales

Wild orcas swimming in the

A lone macaque relaxes in

A tiny fennec fox,

Inquisitive male Seebohm’s

known as riads, still

The splendid galleried interior

Rock the Kasbah

One of the tower structures

Art Deco à la Mode

Art Deco façade of the

things you can do in Morocco,